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Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 21:36:51 -0400
From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall@blacksburg.net>
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To: Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Dell power supply strap
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Some time ago someone posted  a request for the rubber strap on a Dell 
power supply.  Contact me off list, I'll send it to you.

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 00:37:23 2013
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] 22 and counting
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April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain.  For a few years 
before
that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up.  It has been a 
long ride
from those days until now.  We are still here.

And we can continue on for who knows how many more years?

If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars
towards keeping it on the air:

http://www.team.net/donations.html

mjb.
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 21:00:27 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 22:58:56 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house?
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I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO.

They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3 
inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose.

They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees.

I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat 
permanently set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior 
bottom surface of the box.

The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and thermostat, 
switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to the box, that 
sort of thing.

EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this 
something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of 
work, I want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where to 
start looking for the stuff, what to Google, etc.

Thanks.

Scott
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 21:28:32 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 20:26:14 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
References: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house?
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Scott - Take a look at

http://www.amazon.com/gp/bestsellers/kitchen/3737281/ref=pd_zg_hrsr_k_1_4_last
This is a link for "Best Sellers in Chafing Dishes".  I found this after 
a search for "food warmer" in appliances.

Look at some of the buffet servers.  I know buying this is not as much 
fun, but if something like this makes her happy, you could spend some 
time on a different project.

Brian with more than enough projects for years


On 4/11/2013 7:58 PM, Scott wrote:
> I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO.
>
> They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3 
> inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose.
>
> They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees.
>
> I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat 
> permanently set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior 
> bottom surface of the box.
>
> The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and thermostat, 
> switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to the box, that 
> sort of thing.
>
> EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this 
> something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of 
> work, I want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where to 
> start looking for the stuff, what to Google, etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 21:32:56 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 23:31:27 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
References: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com>
  <51677ED6.8010108@earthlink.net>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house?
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Yeah, I've spent the last six months looking for something to just buy. 
It doesn't exist.

Besides, making them will earn me so much more in the 'thoughtfulness' 
category.

On 4/11/2013 11:26 PM, Brian Kemp wrote:
> Scott - Take a look at
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/bestsellers/kitchen/3737281/ref=pd_zg_hrsr_k_1_4_last 
>
> This is a link for "Best Sellers in Chafing Dishes".  I found this 
> after a search for "food warmer" in appliances.
>
> Look at some of the buffet servers.  I know buying this is not as much 
> fun, but if something like this makes her happy, you could spend some 
> time on a different project.
>
> Brian with more than enough projects for years
>
>
> On 4/11/2013 7:58 PM, Scott wrote:
>> I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO.
>>
>> They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3 
>> inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose.
>>
>> They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees.
>>
>> I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat 
>> permanently set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior 
>> bottom surface of the box.
>>
>> The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and 
>> thermostat, switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to 
>> the box, that sort of thing.
>>
>> EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this 
>> something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of 
>> work, I want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where 
>> to start looking for the stuff, what to Google, etc.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Scott
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 21:36:46 2013
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Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 23:35:19 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com> <51677F06.500@nycap.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, I've looked at food warmers (and cookers), those are the principle 
I want to copy. That or an electric blanket.

So I guess I could ask the question: I want to make my own miniature 
electric blanket from wire (I don't want to buy something and cut it 
down), I want to keep it at a constant temperature, and I want to 
permanently affix it to a small plate of aluminum.

Can anyone give me primer on how to do such a thing? What gauge wire to 
use, should I weave it in a mat, and what sort of switches and 
thermostats should I use?

Or should I just hunt down an EE textbook and start reading?

Thanks.

On 4/11/2013 11:27 PM, skip albright wrote:
>
> a lot of fields, not to many concrete plans...
>
>
> restaurant supply co
>
>
> greenhouse supply co
>
>
> they wont have the parts, but you can get ideas on how they keep 
> things warm
>
>
>  maybe lab supply companies?
>
>
>  how does a crockpot work?
>
>
> we used to sell stick on,  oil pan engine warmers, might be some help 
> in that field.
>
>
> Skip
>
>
> On 4/11/2013 10:58 PM, Scott wrote:
>> I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO.
>>
>> They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3 
>> inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose.
>>
>> They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees.
>>
>> I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat 
>> permanently set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior 
>> bottom surface of the box.
>>
>> The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and 
>> thermostat, switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to 
>> the box, that sort of thing.
>>
>> EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this 
>> something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of 
>> work, I want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where 
>> to start looking for the stuff, what to Google, etc.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Scott
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 11 22:02:13 2013
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References: <51677870.5050107@gmail.com> <51677F06.500@nycap.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Scott, F or C? F would be easier. Temperature control range? If you only need
a few degrees, a simple bi-metallic thermal switch in series with the AC line
should do. Here's a Digikey link,
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/67F100/723-1181-ND/1631948 for one of
many.

Or even easier, go to digikey.com and call them. I've found them to be very
helpful. I think you can find a heating element with internal temperature
control that will do what you want.

Good luck.

Brian K.




On Apr 11, 2013, at 8:35 PM, Scott wrote:

> Yeah, I've looked at food warmers (and cookers), those are the principle I
want to copy. That or an electric blanket.
>
> So I guess I could ask the question: I want to make my own miniature
electric blanket from wire (I don't want to buy something and cut it down), I
want to keep it at a constant temperature, and I want to permanently affix it
to a small plate of aluminum.
>
> Can anyone give me primer on how to do such a thing? What gauge wire to use,
should I weave it in a mat, and what sort of switches and thermostats should I
use?
>
> Or should I just hunt down an EE textbook and start reading?
>
> Thanks.
>
> On 4/11/2013 11:27 PM, skip albright wrote:
>>
>> a lot of fields, not to many concrete plans...
>>
>>
>> restaurant supply co
>>
>>
>> greenhouse supply co
>>
>>
>> they wont have the parts, but you can get ideas on how they keep things
warm
>>
>>
>> maybe lab supply companies?
>>
>>
>> how does a crockpot work?
>>
>>
>> we used to sell stick on,  oil pan engine warmers, might be some help in
that field.
>>
>>
>> Skip
>>
>>
>> On 4/11/2013 10:58 PM, Scott wrote:
>>> I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO.
>>>
>>> They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3
inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose.
>>>
>>> They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees.
>>>
>>> I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat permanently
set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior bottom surface of the
box.
>>>
>>> The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and thermostat,
switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to the box, that sort of
thing.
>>>
>>> EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this
something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of work, I
want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where to start looking
for the stuff, what to Google, etc.
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Scott
_______________________________________________

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Do you want to make your own, or would any of these work?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#blanket-heaters/=ma8vbz

Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> I would like to build several warmer 'pots' for SWMBO.
>
> They'll be made from 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, and they'll about 3x6x3
> inches each. They'll have a lid, so they're more like boxes, I suppose.
>
> They'll be used to keep fluid warmed to about 100 degrees.
>
> I'd like to use an electric heating element with a thermostat
> permanently set to that temperature, and it could go on the exterior
> bottom surface of the box.
>
> The only thing I don't know how to do is the wire grid and thermostat,
> switches, etc. What should I use to attach the wire to the box, that
> sort of thing.
>
> EE1101 was a long time ago, so I thought I'd ask you guys. Is this
> something that can be done? I don't mind if it takes a fair amount of
> work, I want these to be nice, and lasting. I just don't know where to
> start looking for the stuff, what to Google, etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Scott
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 12 01:36:09 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 00:31:59 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Is there an electrical engineer in the house?
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> Can anyone give me primer on how to do such a thing? What 
> gauge wire to use, should I weave it in a mat, and what sort 
> of switches and thermostats should I use?

What about using a pre-made element, like this:
http://goo.gl/i7CGk

If you really want to do it yourself, my approach might be to source some
nichrome wire and epoxy it to the bottom of the plate.  JB Weld would
probably do, or there are purpose-made epoxies available.  JB Weld says it
is good to 500F continuous and you aren't going that high (if you don't go
overboard on heater power).  Lay down a fairly thick layer first and let it
cure, to be sure the nichrome doesn't get too close to the aluminum (and
cause a short).  

So pick how much power you want.  I'm guessing that 60 watts should be
plenty (after all, an Easy-Bake oven runs on 60 watts) so you can calculate
resistance from ohms = volts * volts / watts.  60 watts would be about 240
ohms (using 120 volts as the design voltage).  Now figure out about how much
wire length you want, and go look for a wire that will give you something
close to that.  Say for the sake of argument that you wind up with 6' of
wire in your design (more wire will spread the heat out better, which SWMBO
will like); you want about 40 ohms/foot.

Using the chart I found at http://goo.gl/3Rpqg, 38 AWG is just what you
want.  Here's a nice piece on fleabay for $4
http://goo.gl/GGxvk

Brian already gave a link to a thermostat.  Switches are available in dozens
of styles, so pick the one that goes best with your design.  I might go for
a rotary switch mounted on the side, maybe with a flattish sort of knob, 
http://goo.gl/K9Oby
But a rocker switch might look nice, too.  I like this one, but you'd need
to build a power supply for the LED, which might be more trouble than it's
worth
http://goo.gl/3D5lN

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 11:23:53 -0400
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I just put down some prefinished hardwood in my upstairs hallway, and I was
slipping all over the place in socks. The piece that will go between the
nosing at the top of the stairs and the rest of the flooring isn't quite a
full width piece, so I've left it out until I get the nosing, but I'm thinking
of putting in a non-skid thing as a last resort if I start sliding. Of course
it has to look nice :-)

I was thinking of a piece of perforated hardwood, but all I'm finding are
soundproofing materials. It needs to be 3/4" thick like the flooring. I don't
have a drill press so DIY 250 holes is not an option...

Any thoughts? Actually something that incorporated the nosing too would be
nice, so it isn't slippery. The rest of the stairs will have a carpet runner.

thanks,
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 15:43:50 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip?
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

How about a coat of clear poly with some grit in it?   MB



---------- Original Message ----------
From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip?
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 11:23:53 -0400

I just put down some prefinished hardwood in my upstairs hallway, and I was
slipping all over the place in socks. The piece that will go between the
nosing at the top of the stairs and the rest of the flooring isn't quite a
full width piece, so I've left it out until I get the nosing, but I'm
thinking
of putting in a non-skid thing as a last resort if I start sliding. Of course
it has to look nice :-)

I was thinking of a piece of perforated hardwood, but all I'm finding are
soundproofing materials. It needs to be 3/4" thick like the flooring. I don't
have a drill press so DIY 250 holes is not an option...

Any thoughts? Actually something that incorporated the nosing too would be
nice, so it isn't slippery. The rest of the stairs will have a carpet runner.

thanks,
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre@juno.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 13 09:47:31 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 11:31:37 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 04/13/2013 11:31:48, Serialize complete at
	04/13/2013 11:31:48
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Just a thought, and it may not be close to what you are looking for...

Today, on tractor forums they were talking about putting a *LIGHT* dusting 
of sand between spray paint coats to make surfaces slip-prof.

Maybe a light dusting of sand in a clear top coat will work for your needs 
on whatever material you decide to use.

Just a thought.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




I just put down some prefinished hardwood in my upstairs hallway, and I 
was
slipping all over the place in socks. The piece that will go between the
nosing at the top of the stairs and the rest of the flooring isn't quite a
full width piece, so I've left it out until I get the nosing, but I'm 
thinking
of putting in a non-skid thing as a last resort if I start sliding. Of 
course
it has to look nice :-)

I was thinking of a piece of perforated hardwood, but all I'm finding are
soundproofing materials. It needs to be 3/4" thick like the flooring. I 
don't
have a drill press so DIY 250 holes is not an option...

Any thoughts? Actually something that incorporated the nosing too would be
nice, so it isn't slippery. The rest of the stairs will have a carpet 
runner.

thanks,
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 13 10:19:31 2013
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 12:18:02 -0400
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To: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Coupla people wrote:

> How about a coat of clear poly with some grit in it?

I have no idea what super space age finish is on there now and don't really
want to mess with it. Plus, if I'm going to make something stand out such as a
different finish, I don't want it to look like I'm trying to get it to match
and failing, and I think gritty poly would look like that. I'd rather it
looked purposeful.

A cribbage board would be awesome but not at the top of the stairs :-)
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 10:41:05 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
References: <9A90E514-2D53-4C00-BCDE-5B63B5464505@groupwbench.org>
Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim - Look at something like this from the Home Depot web site:
I searched for "non-skid".  It sounds exactly what you want and the 
first two five star reviews are the same stair application.

www.homedepot.com/p/t/203002764?catalogId=10053

Seal-Krete 3.2 oz. Clear Grip - Anti-Skid Additive
Model # 402002
Internet # 203002764
$8.88 /EA-Each

SEAL-KRETE Clear Grip is a durable, micronized polymeric aggregate 
developed for use as an anti-skid additive to floor paint or sealers. 
Because it's a lightweight plastic grit, Clear Grip remains suspended 
longer. It adds a slight texture to the finish without changing colors. 
It has excellent resistance to chemicals and detergents and helps extend 
paint life. Clear Grip can be used in water-based, solvent-based alkyd, 
urethane or epoxy coatings.

  -   Mix with paint or sealers to as a measure of safety to slippery 
steps, stairs and walkways
  -   Will not soften under normal heat exposure
-    Dries clear in sealers
-    Chemical and solvent resistant

 From the reviews:


We have hardwood stairs in our house and we've had a few close calls 
when walking on them wearing socks. I lightly sanded the stairs, mixed 
some Clear Grip into a quart of urathane clear coat and painted it on. 
The stairs are much safer now and they look the same as they did before.

----


We needed to refinish our wooden stairs in our home. I had seen this 
product used on one of those many re-do your house shows, so we thought 
we would give it a try. We added the recommended amount to the clear 
polyurethane we used for the top of the steps. It mixed in very easily - 
and after it was good and dry, YEAH, NO LONGER SLIPPERY!! You cannot 
tell it is there unless you look closely. We HIGHLY recommend this 
product to anyone that worries about sliping on the stairs.


Brian


On 4/13/2013 8:23 AM, Jim Franklin wrote:
> I just put down some prefinished hardwood in my upstairs hallway, and I was
> slipping all over the place in socks. The piece that will go between the
> nosing at the top of the stairs and the rest of the flooring isn't quite a
> full width piece, so I've left it out until I get the nosing, but I'm thinking
> of putting in a non-skid thing as a last resort if I start sliding. Of course
> it has to look nice :-)
>
> I was thinking of a piece of perforated hardwood, but all I'm finding are
> soundproofing materials. It needs to be 3/4" thick like the flooring. I don't
> have a drill press so DIY 250 holes is not an option...
>
> Any thoughts? Actually something that incorporated the nosing too would be
> nice, so it isn't slippery. The rest of the stairs will have a carpet runner.
>
> thanks,
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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	UTC
From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: "'Jim Franklin'" <jamesf@groupwbench.org>, "'shop-talk List'"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <9A90E514-2D53-4C00-BCDE-5B63B5464505@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 14:08:37 -0500
Thread-Index: AQJchCgRfsv0jKh69b1KiNQ2wQImsZe365uA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

What about a strip of smooth rubber flooring, or rubber threshold?
Installation options could range from a full rubber nosing to rabbeting a
strip of rubber (flat or perhaps arched up like a threshold) into the wood
nosing.

Karl



-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Franklin
Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-skid replacement for hardwood floor strip?

I just put down some prefinished hardwood in my upstairs hallway, and I was
slipping all over the place in socks. The piece that will go between the
nosing at the top of the stairs and the rest of the flooring isn't quite a
full width piece, so I've left it out until I get the nosing, but I'm
thinking of putting in a non-skid thing as a last resort if I start sliding.
Of course it has to look nice :-)

I was thinking of a piece of perforated hardwood, but all I'm finding are
soundproofing materials. It needs to be 3/4" thick like the flooring. I
don't have a drill press so DIY 250 holes is not an option...

Any thoughts? Actually something that incorporated the nosing too would be
nice, so it isn't slippery. The rest of the stairs will have a carpet
runner.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 14 07:29:22 2013
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From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 08:27:44 -0500
	FILETIME=[D9696D10:01CE3913]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anchoring railing posts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My rental property currently has wrought iron railings along the steps leading
to the front door and around the concrete deck that is in front of the door.
The railings are solid, but pretty old and in need of a serious cleanup and
coat of paint at best.  It is also from two different eras, as I believe the
railing at the top is original to the house (c1950) or close, while the steps
is aluminum.  The posts are all iron and very well anchored in the concrete.

I could spend a couple of days with a wire brush on my angle grinder and get
them cleaned up and repainted, but they are ugly and my wife would like to
replace them.  The deck is about 6 feet off the ground in front and 12 feet on
the side by the driveway, so whatever we do has to be pretty sturdy.  One
option we are considering is to build a cedar railing around the deck.  There
are supports that are made for attaching wood posts to the concrete, but I
have used them before and they don't feel solid enough to me, so I don't want
to fully trust those.  Here's what I am thinking:  The current steel supports
are 1" square tube.  My thought is to remove the old railing but leave the
posts in place.  Clean them up with the wire brush and give them a coat of
something to stop rust.  Then, cut them off at about 12 inches and drill a
slightly larger hole in the base of each support.  Coat each post with an
adhesive of some sort (maybe a 2-part epoxy) and set the posts in place.  I
might also use the commercial supports for added safety and buy ones that are
open at the bottom or drill a matching hole in them, too.

Does this sound like a good plan to the group, or is it one of my dumber
ideas?  Any thoughts will be appreciated.  Our option is a vinyl or aluminum
system, but that will get pretty pricey.

Thanks,

Jim

p.s. This is the same house with the basement trap door that concerned me.
That door is still there, but our summer renters were fine with us padlocking
the door shut, so we get to put that problem off another year at least.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 13:11:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am 
pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am 
hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out....

So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run 
down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners 
have not worked....

Thanks!
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 14 12:02:31 2013
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 10:55:00 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
References: <COL126-W20EFB38DBB3CD14A00F799CCC30@phx.gbl>
Cc: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anchoring railing posts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim,

Two options for your consideration:

1 - If the railings are solid and your wife only doesn't like them based 
on the deteriorated finish, contact a local painting or iron works 
company.  You may find that their estimate to come out and sandblast, 
prime, and paint is cheaper than new railing parts and your time.  I 
have a mixture of railings as well and the only problem with the c1957 
iron rail is rusting at the ground level where the previous owner didn't 
do maintenance.  Another advantage of this is that you don't have to 
bring the railing in compliance with current building codes.  Since it 
is a rental property, you also will not have a period of time with no 
railing since it can stay in place.

2.  Look at an aluminum system to match the rest of the aluminum that 
you already have.   I pulled a permit for a balcony repair (that turned 
into a replacement) and was required to replace the railing to bring it 
in compliance with current codes.  I used a cable rail system from 
http://www.fsihp.com/products/aluminum-railing on my balcony.  Their 
prices were very good and the product is decent.  I did have trouble 
getting enough tension on the cables in my application, so would 
consider other vendors if you go the cable route if you have long 
lengths and corners.  My project was a 45' long by 5' cantilevered 
balcony for 55' of total railing.  I used fascia mounted posts because 
the balcony is a waterproof concrete and I didn't want any penetrations 
in the surface.  They also have surface mount posts.  I think their 
picket stile railing would be an easy application and may use them again 
when I get to other railing where obstructing the view is not an issue.

Brian

On 4/14/2013 6:27 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
> My rental property currently has wrought iron railings along the steps leading
> to the front door and around the concrete deck that is in front of the door.
> The railings are solid, but pretty old and in need of a serious cleanup and
> coat of paint at best.  It is also from two different eras, as I believe the
> railing at the top is original to the house (c1950) or close, while the steps
> is aluminum.  The posts are all iron and very well anchored in the concrete.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 11:19:02 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac45M6JWY/+h31SKTPSDOJ2XYMUwXAACE+Lg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd give Hot water a go if you think the problem is in the connector pipe
and it might be a fatty build up.  Pour in a large container of hot water,
while the hot water is running.  I wouldn't run the disposal at this time,
you want to give the hot water plenty of time to clear out the buildup.  The
idea is to overwhem the pipe with water and scour it clean.  Conversely, you
might just move the fat further down the pipe, which might not be a good
thing.  

I've also run ice cubes down mine when it slowed.  The cubes clean the heck
out of the inside of the disposal.  Citrus rinds clean really well too.

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 10:11 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain

I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am 
pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am 
hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out....

So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run 
down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners 
have not worked....

Thanks!
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net>
	<1F4EEDB25A5F4986B1BABB6336C00B6F@EntCentPC>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 16:17:23 -0400
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
To: Jack Brooks <jibjib@att.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I use the bacterial cleaners.  It won't work immediately but will keep it
clean indefinitely.  It comes as a dry powder that you mix with warm water
and pour down the drain.  The bacteria eats the bio materials, including
soap scum.  I had a slow drain on my washer that was difficult to keep
clear.  The bacterial cleaner has kept it clean for years.  If you  put
something down it that kills the bacteria you may to add them again.

Ben......




On Sun, Apr 14, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Jack Brooks <jibjib@att.net> wrote:

> I'd give Hot water a go if you think the problem is in the connector pipe
> and it might be a fatty build up.  Pour in a large container of hot water,
> while the hot water is running.  I wouldn't run the disposal at this time,
> you want to give the hot water plenty of time to clear out the buildup.
>  The
> idea is to overwhem the pipe with water and scour it clean.  Conversely,
> you
> might just move the fat further down the pipe, which might not be a good
> thing.
>
> I've also run ice cubes down mine when it slowed.  The cubes clean the heck
> out of the inside of the disposal.  Citrus rinds clean really well too.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 10:11 AM
> To: Shop Talk
> Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain
>
> I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am
> pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am
> hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out....
>
> So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run
> down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners
> have not worked....
>
> Thanks!
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 14 15:24:51 2013
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net><1F4EEDB25A5F4986B1BABB6336C00B6F@EntCentPC>
	<CAMHq6Zz+UdO0jg-Qho5gV_RA5N7QNbyZD=sasya3NhpaZ=rAgA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 14:22:21 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac45TRPuhslUyu2RSieioe/AzWEmGAACHy6Q
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, I agree 100% on the bugs Ben!  I use them and should have discussed
them here too.  

 

With the slow drain, I just felt it was good to start with getting it
flowing better, as the bacteria are great for the long haul, but will take
some time to clear out the current mess.

 

  _____  

From: Benjamin Zwissler [mailto:bjzwissler@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 1:17 PM
To: Jack Brooks
Cc: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain

 

I use the bacterial cleaners.  It won't work immediately but will keep it
clean indefinitely.  It comes as a dry powder that you mix with warm water
and pour down the drain.  The bacteria eats the bio materials, including
soap scum.  I had a slow drain on my washer that was difficult to keep
clear.  The bacterial cleaner has kept it clean for years.  If you  put
something down it that kills the bacteria you may to add them again.

 

Ben......

 

 

 

On Sun, Apr 14, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Jack Brooks <jibjib@att.net> wrote:

I'd give Hot water a go if you think the problem is in the connector pipe
and it might be a fatty build up.  Pour in a large container of hot water,
while the hot water is running.  I wouldn't run the disposal at this time,
you want to give the hot water plenty of time to clear out the buildup.  The
idea is to overwhem the pipe with water and scour it clean.  Conversely, you
might just move the fat further down the pipe, which might not be a good
thing.

I've also run ice cubes down mine when it slowed.  The cubes clean the heck
out of the inside of the disposal.  Citrus rinds clean really well too.


-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2013 10:11 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain

I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am
pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am
hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out....

So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run
down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners
have not worked....

Thanks!
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
<http://www.team.net/forums%0d%0aUnsubscribe/Manage> 

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net

_______________________________________________

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<http://www.team.net/forums%0d%0aUnsubscribe/Manage> 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 14 16:25:06 2013
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 15:14:03 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: 'Shop Talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] clone HDD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have about filled up my 75 gb HDD and rather than put in a new, bigger 
HDD and then manually install everything, I would like to clone a 
bootable image from the existing HDD over to the new HDD. Anyone got any 
experience in doing this?  Advice?

Probably another fix could be to just install a second HDD and move all 
the picture, video and music files that are eating up space on the C drive.

Thanks
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 14 16:30:10 2013
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From: Philip Nase <nases@verizon.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 18:28:37 -0400
References: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com>
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>, Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] clone HDD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

It's easy on a Mac.  Not so sure about a PC.  On a Mac I create a bootable
clone on the new drive and swap it in.  Of course good backups before starting
are a must.

Phil Nase
Applebachsville, PA
http://home.comcast.net/~philnasecpa/




On Apr 14, 2013, at 6:14 PM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

> I have about filled up my 75 gb HDD and rather than put in a new, bigger HDD
and then manually install everything, I would like to clone a bootable image
from the existing HDD over to the new HDD. Anyone got any experience in doing
this?  Advice?
>
> Probably another fix could be to just install a second HDD and move all the
picture, video and music files that are eating up space on the C drive.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/nases@verizon.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 14 17:13:15 2013
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 16:08:23 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
References: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com>
Cc: 'Shop Talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] clone HDD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave - Go to the manufacture's web site for your new drive if it didn't 
come with software.  Cloning is a common action when people get new 
drives, so the manufactures make it easy.  They will tell you how to 
connect both drives, setup the new one, and make the clone, then you can 
remove the old one and save it as a backup.

I'd recommend your second option if everything is good with the existing 
drive other than free space.  A sysadmin years ago recommended keeping 
data separate from the OS and I've been doing it since.  I have three 
drives.  One is Windoze and programs, one is pictures and other data 
files I create, and the third is TV programs (my computer serves as my 
DVR).  This cuts down usage on my data drive and lets me do focused 
backups on the most important files.  I seem to loose a drive about 
every 10 years and this has worked out well for making recovery easier.

Brian

On 4/14/2013 3:14 PM, Dave C wrote:
> I have about filled up my 75 gb HDD and rather than put in a new, 
> bigger HDD and then manually install everything, I would like to clone 
> a bootable image from the existing HDD over to the new HDD. Anyone got 
> any experience in doing this?  Advice?
>
> Probably another fix could be to just install a second HDD and move 
> all the picture, video and music files that are eating up space on the 
> C drive.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 14 17:29:23 2013
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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Tim - I had a disposer where the drain hose got clogged.  I also had a 
case where the trap under the sink was very restricted with gunk. I'd 
try a sink full of hot water first as was already recommended then if 
that didn't work, go under the sink and check the drain pipe that is 
easy to get access.

When I moved into my current house, I had to replace about 30 feet of 
cast iron drain pipe.  It was clogged almost solid, but rotted through 
at the bottom.  The plumber replacing the pipe (home warranty from the 
seller) said this is why he loves drain cleaners. Rather than just 
running a snake, he gets to charge a day or two of labor and put in new 
pipe.  I don't know how true that is with other types of pipe, but I 
minimize my use of drain cleaner.

Brian

On 4/14/2013 10:11 AM, Tim wrote:
> I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am
> pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am
> hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out....
>
> So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run
> down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners
> have not worked....
>
> Thanks!
> tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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	<CA+7Nz3prL7HpR1BZqThzN5+iDx=Oqyc9+O8GRx=8AxU_q_c1dA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 19:32:00 -0500
From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <eltonclark@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd:  slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Elton E. (Tony) Clark <eltonclark@gmail.com>
Date: 14 April 2013 18:51
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain
To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Cc: Tim <tputland@charter.net>, Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>


My wife, desperate to clear a disposal drain before company arrived,
plugged both sides of the sink, ran the disposal side full of hot water and
then unplugged that side and turned on the disposal . . the pumping action
of the disposer and the weight of the full sink of water cleared the
drain.  We've tried it since;  it always works for simple  clogs but one
wants to hold the non-disposer plug in place while the disposer runs or it
might flow up in the sink.








On 14 April 2013 18:16, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Tim - I had a disposer where the drain hose got clogged.  I also had a
> case where the trap under the sink was very restricted with gunk. I'd try a
> sink full of hot water first as was already recommended then if that didn't
> work, go under the sink and check the drain pipe that is easy to get access.
>
> When I moved into my current house, I had to replace about 30 feet of cast
> iron drain pipe.  It was clogged almost solid, but rotted through at the
> bottom.  The plumber replacing the pipe (home warranty from the seller)
> said this is why he loves drain cleaners. Rather than just running a snake,
> he gets to charge a day or two of labor and put in new pipe.  I don't know
> how true that is with other types of pipe, but I minimize my use of drain
> cleaner.
>
> Brian
>
>
> On 4/14/2013 10:11 AM, Tim wrote:
>
>> I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am
>> pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am
>> hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out....
>>
>> So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run
>> down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners
>> have not worked....
>>
>> Thanks!
>> tim
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 14 18:45:42 2013
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Dave C'" <cavanadd@frontier.com>, "'Shop Talk'"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 17:40:28 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac45XsLnu9p8xUR9TleGihm9e4xflAAEhxwA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] clone HDD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> Probably another fix could be to just install a second HDD 
> and move all the picture, video and music files that are 
> eating up space on the C drive.

If you have the drive bay & port, that is definitely the route I would
recommend.  Huge new hard drives are really cheap these days, and you can
just set it up as D: and start using it.  No need to copy the existing files
if you don't want to (unless you need more room for optimizing, etc).  And
working across different disc spindles can help speed up some operations.

I'm up to H: on this machine <g>

Maybe some drive makers offer cloning software now that will work across
different disk types, but they sure didn't use to.  We used to use a product
called Symantec Ghost a lot; it worked very well across different disc
types.  But Windoze still sometimes had problems with the new drive,
especially if the interface type was different (eg replacing parallel IDE
with SATA or whatever).

-- Randall 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 14 19:47:46 2013
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References: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com>
From: Fred Katz <roadster@astound.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 18:34:04 -0700
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] clone HDD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought a NewerTech USB universal drive adapter, cost me about $27 at the
time. Comes with both USB 3 and USB 2 connectors to your PC or Mac, and you
can plug any HD into the device externally, whether 2.5 3.5 or 5.25 inch
drive. Even has a SATA connector. Extremely easy to connect any HD to it, and
then use clone software that you can get off the Internet. I've used this to
copy drives (I have two of these devices). Also to copy the internal to an
external before swapping them. The only problem I encountered was copying some
15-year-old drives but that probably is not something you would do.

Alternatively, you could do as you said. I connect an external USB drive for
storing all my large videos and picture albums. I changed the preferences on
my applications to point to the external drive for accessing the home folder
for videos and albums. That keeps my laptop internal drive from filling up.

Fred -

On Apr 14, 2013, at 3:14 PM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

> I have about filled up my 75 gb HDD and rather than put in a new, bigger HDD
and then manually install everything, I would like to clone a bootable image
from the existing HDD over to the new HDD. Anyone got any experience in doing
this?  Advice?
>
> Probably another fix could be to just install a second HDD and move all the
picture, video and music files that are eating up space on the C drive.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 07:40:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I think I will try the bugs since 
we will be out of town this weekend coming up and they will have a 
chance to work without being washed down or killed.

Thanks again!
tim


On Sun, Apr 14, 2013 at 12:11 PM, Tim wrote:

> I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I 
> am pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am 
> hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out....
>
> So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run 
> down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain 
> cleaners have not worked....
>
> Thanks!
> tim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 06:22:47 2013
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From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 07:13:44 -0500
References: <COL126-W20EFB38DBB3CD14A00F799CCC30@phx.gbl>,
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	FILETIME=[AD2C9AA0:01CE39D2]
Cc: shop talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anchoring railing posts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Brian.  Both ideas are worth considering and the FSI link gives us a
few more.  Thanks for sharing them.
Jim

> Date: Sun, 14 Apr 2013 10:55:00 -0700
> From: bk13@earthlink.net
> To: jandkstone99@msn.com
> CC: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anchoring railing posts
>
> Jim,
>
> Two options for your consideration:
>
> 1 - If the railings are solid and your wife only doesn't like them based
> on the deteriorated finish, contact a local painting or iron works
> company.  You may find that their estimate to come out and sandblast,
> prime, and paint is cheaper than new railing parts and your time.  I
> have a mixture of railings as well and the only problem with the c1957
> iron rail is rusting at the ground level where the previous owner didn't
> do maintenance.  Another advantage of this is that you don't have to
> bring the railing in compliance with current building codes.  Since it
> is a rental property, you also will not have a period of time with no
> railing since it can stay in place.
>
> 2.  Look at an aluminum system to match the rest of the aluminum that
> you already have.   I pulled a permit for a balcony repair (that turned
> into a replacement) and was required to replace the railing to bring it
> in compliance with current codes.  I used a cable rail system from
> http://www.fsihp.com/products/aluminum-railing on my balcony.  Their
> prices were very good and the product is decent.  I did have trouble
> getting enough tension on the cables in my application, so would
> consider other vendors if you go the cable route if you have long
> lengths and corners.  My project was a 45' long by 5' cantilevered
> balcony for 55' of total railing.  I used fascia mounted posts because
> the balcony is a waterproof concrete and I didn't want any penetrations
> in the surface.  They also have surface mount posts.  I think their
> picket stile railing would be an easy application and may use them again
> when I get to other railing where obstructing the view is not an issue.
>
> Brian
>
> On 4/14/2013 6:27 AM, Jim Stone wrote:
> > My rental property currently has wrought iron railings along the steps
leading
> > to the front door and around the concrete deck that is in front of the
door.
> > The railings are solid, but pretty old and in need of a serious cleanup
and
> > coat of paint at best.  It is also from two different eras, as I believe
the
> > railing at the top is original to the house (c1950) or close, while the
steps
> > is aluminum.  The posts are all iron and very well anchored in the
concrete.
_______________________________________________

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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] clone HDD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On 4/14/2013 6:14 PM, Dave C wrote:
> I have about filled up my 75 gb HDD and rather than put in a new, bigger
> HDD and then manually install everything, I would like to clone a
> bootable image from the existing HDD over to the new HDD. Anyone got any
> experience in doing this?  Advice?

I've done it a bunch, but I'm a pro, and my usuall method isn't for the 
faint of heart; and some unix / linux experience helps, too.

* Get a linux "live CD" image and burn it onto a disk. I like "Puppy 
Linux" (google will turn up any of this stuff, so I'll leave that to 
you.) A live CD is a full operating system that boots and runs from 
memory only. You don't have to install it, or modify anything on the HDD.
* Install new drive. Real easy with SATA, which is a given on anything 
built in the last 8 years or so.
* Boot Puppy Linux. It'll look a lot like a familiar Windows desktop.
* Its system utilities menu has a program "gparted". This is a disk 
partition editor, much like partition magic if you ever used that back 
in the day.
* Create the partition layout you want, and make the first one active or 
bootable using the "flags" menu option.
* The old and new drives show up on the desktop with unix device names, 
like sda0 and sdb0. Take note of them. You can click to open them and 
verify which drive is the old C:. You'll have to right-click and do a 
"dismount" to close them.
* Open "terminal" or "command line" or whatever it's called.
* You've gonna use a command line program "ntfsclone" to copy from the 
old to the new drive. It takes all the sectors in use and builds them 
into a data stream that you can store somewhere, or shoot to a 2nd copy 
and extract.
* Command will be like:
	ntfsclone -s /dev/sda1 -o - | ntfsclone -r -O /dev/sdb1 -

BE real careful here; unix tends to give ya' enough rope to hang 
yourself. make sure those /dev entries are referring to the correct 
disk, or it will be happy to do exactly what you tell it, and copy the 
empty drive to the good one!

That's it. It's not really as hairy as it sounds. Google ntfsclone, and 
there are a bunch of other similar how-tos out there. I would NOT use 
the xfer programs that the drive makers offer. The ones I've looked at 
usually are just a batch file using "xcopy" or something, which does NOT 
produce a true image or clone of your drive.

-Wayne
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 07:41:08 2013
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

There is the old "run ice through the disposer" trick that's great for 
knocking rust and grime off the inside of the grind chamber. I've had 
really good results with Drano or Liquid Plumber foaming drain cleaners 
for drains & traps, but I don't know if I'd want to run it through a 
disposer (and they recommend against it.)

PVC pipes & traps are dirt cheap, and Insinkerator makes a kick ass 
disposer. Installed their "Evo Compact" with the stainless steel chamber 
a couple years ago for $200; just avoid the el-cheapo "Badger" series.

Brian wrote:
 > The plumber replacing the pipe ... said this is why he loves drain
 > cleaners. Rather than just running a snake, he gets to charge a day
 > or two of labor and put in new pipe.

I saw this as a kid back in the 70s. Mom used to regularly use cleaner 
in the kitchen sink, which the chemical companies of the day advocated. 
Started leaking one day. The cleaner had totally eaten away the copper 
or brass pipe & trap from the inside out, and all that was left was a 
shell of chrome, about the thickness of heavy aluminum foil! PVC OTOH is 
pretty inert to alkaline & acid cleaners and doubt it would suffer.

-Wayne

On 4/14/2013 1:11 PM, Tim wrote:
> I have a garbage disposal that drains slow unless you run it. While I am
> pretty sure I know what is causing it (build up in the pipe), I am
> hoping that I don't have to pull the drain pipe to clean it out....
>
> So, that being said, does anyone know if there is something I can run
> down the drain that will clear out that build up? Regular drain cleaners
> have not worked....
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 07:42:44 2013
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From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net>
	<516B38C4.6000109@earthlink.net>
	<CA+7Nz3prL7HpR1BZqThzN5+iDx=Oqyc9+O8GRx=8AxU_q_c1dA@mail.gmail.com>
	<CA+7Nz3racJ+gy4Y5aHCpWTTW-974H2Hm7YQFXYNGTe456=bJyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fwd:  slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 4/14/2013 8:32 PM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark wrote:
> My wife, desperate to clear a disposal drain before company arrived,
> plugged both sides of the sink, ran the disposal side full of hot water and
> then unplugged that side and turned on the disposal . . the pumping action
> of the disposer and the weight of the full sink of water cleared the

My place was built around 2001, and has these "air admittance valves" 
(check valves, basically) rather that vent stacks on the drains.

Filled the disposer & sink full of water to test for leaks, and found 
the disposer has strong enough pumping action that water was going UP 
the pipe and spraying out all over the cabinet under the sink! Yuck. 
Supposed to only allow air IN, nothing out!

-w
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 07:43:18 2013
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From: "Tony Vaccaro" <tvacc@lotusowners.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <516B2A2B.5070706@frontier.com> <516BF94E.7080503@xxiii.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 09:40:56 -0400
Thread-Index: AQHSJeu6dKfQJsutd/D3WdIQ8PW61AIfBJUgmL55WBA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] clone HDD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is really not that difficult. I do it all the time, but that is the
business I am in.

Get yourself a copy of HD Clone. Bing it.  That is all you need.

Tony Vaccaro
Lotus Owners of NY  (LOONY)
www.lotusowners.com
716-861-1412
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 11:17:41 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 10:11:49 -0700
Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that:
1.  slight convex head
2.  underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward.
The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching
4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being
tightened.

Anyone ever seen anything like this?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 11:49:35 2013
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>, "Shop
	Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 13:28:48 -0400
	a=U1d9HnsBCykA:10 a=P2oOn6vrs4wA:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10
	a=S2wpYzp2RsyRkoRNwqcm1Q==:17 a=5lucXWJGAAAA:8
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	a=S2wpYzp2RsyRkoRNwqcm1Q==:117
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> I'm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that:
> 1.  slight convex head
> 2.  underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward.

Not sure about the tapered sides - look at McMaster-Carr's "plow bolts".

http://www.mcmaster.com/#specialty-bolts/=mc17oc

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC 
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	UTC
From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: "'Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA'" <gsteve@hammatt.com>, "'Shop
	Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 12:31:52 -0500
Thread-Index: AQJTK8vZEgd9PrduoagH6QvOJq5v0ZfNpaXw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

How does it differ from a carriage bolt?


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA
Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts

I'm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that:
1.  slight convex head
2.  underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward.
The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching 4-sided
tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being tightened.

Anyone ever seen anything like this?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 11:50:54 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 10:33:00 -0700
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I should clarify:  This is not a carriage bolt.  When looking in
the plan (downward) view, the head appears square.  In other
words, the slightly domed head surface meets the sides to
form a square shape that nests into the tapered square hole
in the casting.  The tapered sides appear to be around
30 degrees from vertical.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:11 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that:
1.  slight convex head
2.  underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward.
The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching
4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being
tightened.

Anyone ever seen anything like this?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 12:10:10 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC>
	<7C08F4B934994325A352C10CCFA00705@StevePC>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 10:58:42 -0700
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts (now see photos)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, this will make it easier:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97934425@N00/
go here to see some photos of what Ibm trying to describe.
Thanks.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:33 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts

I should clarify:  This is not a carriage bolt.  When looking in
the plan (downward) view, the head appears square.  In other
words, the slightly domed head surface meets the sides to
form a square shape that nests into the tapered square hole
in the casting.  The tapered sides appear to be around
30 degrees from vertical.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:11 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that:
1.  slight convex head
2.  underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward.
The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching
4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being
tightened.

Anyone ever seen anything like this?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 12:24:27 2013
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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:12:26 -0400
References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC>
	<7C08F4B934994325A352C10CCFA00705@StevePC>
	<B260DBFAF494423BABFC87CF5532C487@StevePC>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts (now see photos)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Apr 15, 2013, at 1:58 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:

> OK, this will make it easier:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/97934425@N00/
> go here to see some photos of what Ibm trying to describe.
> Thanks.


Have you tried a Google image search, using the actual image?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 13:09:09 2013
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	15 Apr 2013 14:56:54 -0400
From: "Doug Armstrong" <darmstrong@nexicom.net>
To: "'Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA'" <gsteve@hammatt.com>, "'Shop
	Talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC><7C08F4B934994325A352C10CCFA00705@StevePC>
	<B260DBFAF494423BABFC87CF5532C487@StevePC>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:56:49 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac46BEtsY5xEUFA+TV6y4oJSmRhmPwABVsMQ
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts (now see photos)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the proper description, or closest would be "square head plow bolt"
as shown in this photo:

http://file.seekpart.com/productsimage/2012/7/17/201271710421319835.jpg

As for a source, I'm not sure.  I found a couple of discussions about them
being used on old Oliver plows.  Maybe someone into farm equipment
restoration knows of a source?

http://olivergang.org/discus/messages/963/1153.html?1104199506

Doug Armstrong


-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Hammatt, Mount
Vernon WA USA
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 1:59 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts (now see photos)

OK, this will make it easier:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97934425@N00/
go here to see some photos of what Ibm trying to describe.
Thanks.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:33 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts

I should clarify:  This is not a carriage bolt.  When looking in
the plan (downward) view, the head appears square.  In other
words, the slightly domed head surface meets the sides to
form a square shape that nests into the tapered square hole
in the casting.  The tapered sides appear to be around
30 degrees from vertical.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:11 AM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that:
1.  slight convex head
2.  underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward.
The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching
4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being
tightened.

Anyone ever seen anything like this?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gsteve@hammatt.com




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/darmstrong@nexicom.net



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6245 - Release Date: 04/14/13

-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6244 - Release Date: 04/14/13
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 13:09:40 2013
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <334F0DCD301748839348D2AB68748EAB@StevePC>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

like a carriage bolt, but different?
On 4/15/2013 1:11 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
> Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that:
> 1.  slight convex head
> 2.  underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward.
> The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching
> 4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being
> tightened.
>
> Anyone ever seen anything like this?
>
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 13:10:45 2013
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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	<7C08F4B934994325A352C10CCFA00705@StevePC>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts (now see photos)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 4/15/2013 1:58 PM, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
> OK, this will make it easier:
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/97934425@N00/
> go here to see some photos of what Ibm trying to describe.
> Thanks.

Interesting; never seen anything like that. Apparently the hole is 
unthreaded, and the square part keeps it from turning while you run a 
nut on from the other side?

-w
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 15:01:08 2013
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 20:51:30 +0000
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>,  Shop
	Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

---- "Steve Hammatt wrote:
> Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that:
> 1.  slight convex head
> 2.  underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward.
> The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching
> 4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being
> tightened.

Steve, I think you'll have more luck searching by application.  That sounds
like a manufacturer's special to me.  For example
http://goo.gl/5hXM8

Randall
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Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 15:15:23 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>, "Shop Talk"
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20130415205130.CQ4CI.40606.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:07:37 -0700
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I donbt think a search for b1912 Cadillac Leather License Plate
Hanger Boltb will turn up the correct bolt.  My thinking is that
there could have been other applications for the same or very
similar item (such as was mentioned earlier about bplow boltsb)
and that they may be still available for that reason.
Thanks.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Randall
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 1:51 PM
To: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA ; Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts


---- "Steve Hammatt wrote:
> Ibm looking (so far without success) for a type of bolt that:
> 1.  slight convex head
> 2.  underside of head has 4 facets (sides) that taper inward.
> The bolt is designed to fit into a small casting with a matching
> 4-sided tapered hole to lock bolt from rotating while being
> tightened.

Steve, I think you'll have more luck searching by application.  That sounds
like a manufacturer's special to me.  For example
http://goo.gl/5hXM8

Randall



-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 15:31:38 2013
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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 17:25:27 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>, Shop Talk
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20130415205130.CQ4CI.40606.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
	<93D9BF36398440ACAEBCBC4A880A4909@StevePC>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I was just about to tell you that there's this guy who was on Jay 
Leno's Garage who makes leather license plates, and perhaps he might 
have some idea where to get those bolts.  Then I went to get the link 
and I realized, that's you!  So much for that idea.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 05:07 PM 4/15/2013, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
>I donbt think a search for b1912 Cadillac Leather License Plate
>Hanger Boltbwill turn up the correct bolt.  My thinking is that
>there could have been other applications for the same or very
>similar item (such as was mentioned earlier about bplow boltsb)
>and that they may be still available for that reason.
>Thanks.
>
>Steve Hammatt
>Mount Vernon WA USA
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 15 15:47:09 2013
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From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
To: "Steven Trovato" <strovato@optonline.net>, "Shop Talk"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20130415205130.CQ4CI.40606.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
	<93D9BF36398440ACAEBCBC4A880A4909@StevePC>
	<0MLB005LRFJ14J30@mta5.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:40:07 -0700
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Grin!
My wife and I stopped by last Saturday for
a short visit with Jay and a chance for my wife
to see the collection.  Ibm working on making
hangers for plates to go along with my plates.
www.leatherplates.com
Thanks!
BTW, with everyonebs help I determined that
what I need is a small version of a #4 domed
head Plow Bolt.  Now, just to find the right size
and source.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA

From: Steven Trovato
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 2:25 PM
To: Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA ; Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Specialty bolts

I was just about to tell you that there's this guy who was on Jay
Leno's Garage who makes leather license plates, and perhaps he might
have some idea where to get those bolts.  Then I went to get the link
and I realized, that's you!  So much for that idea.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 05:07 PM 4/15/2013, Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
>I donbt think a search for b1912 Cadillac Leather License Plate
>Hanger Boltbwill turn up the correct bolt.  My thinking is that
>there could have been other applications for the same or very
>similar item (such as was mentioned earlier about bplow boltsb)
>and that they may be still available for that reason.
>Thanks.
>
>Steve Hammatt
>Mount Vernon WA USA




-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6246 - Release Date: 04/15/13
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 06:59:30 2013
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From: "Karl Vacek" <KVacek@Ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <2df102dd.6b7744.13e09875fa5.Webtop.44@charter.net>
	<516B38C4.6000109@earthlink.net>
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 07:58:21 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fwd:  slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Based on the good experiences reported here, I decided to try "bugs" in our
upstairs bathroom.  The tub drain runs a long way to the stack, and
sometimes gets slow.  Bleach always fixes it, but a permanent fix sounds
better.

I went to Menard's and saw many kinds of enzymatic septic system cleaners,
but nothing that said it was intended for interior plumbing.  Same thing, or
is there another product that I need to look for?

Thanks!
Karl
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 22 07:24:15 2013
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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 09:23:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Since I have not yet gotten around to looking for bugs, I am interested 
in this info as well.

So, PLEASE reply to the list.

Thanks!!
tim


On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 7:58 AM, Karl Vacek wrote:

> Based on the good experiences reported here, I decided to try "bugs" 
> in our
> upstairs bathroom.  The tub drain runs a long way to the stack, and
> sometimes gets slow.  Bleach always fixes it, but a permanent fix 
> sounds
> better.
>
> I went to Menard's and saw many kinds of enzymatic septic system 
> cleaners,
> but nothing that said it was intended for interior plumbing.  Same 
> thing, or
> is there another product that I need to look for?
>
> Thanks!
> Karl
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 18:57:02 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Did I kill my mower?
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My wife got the riding mower out a couple of weeks ago, and it was 
initially smoking and running rough.  I attributed it to old gas and her 
tendency to over-choke the engine when starting.  It eventually settled 
down and ran ok.  Today she tried again and got LOTS of white smoke and 
poor power, and eventually it wouldn't run well enough to mow.  I 
checked it this afternoon and found the same problem.  Lots of white 
smoke,  it would sort of settle down, then it would quit.  Investigation 
eventually turned up gas in the crankcase, probably a couple of quarts.  
Apparently the float in the carb stuck open over the winter and flooded 
the crankcase (yes, I failed to close the fuel shut off valve last 
fall).  I drained the oil and refilled the crankcase with good oil, and 
now have the mower on the charger as I ran the battery down during my 
troubleshooting process.  I'll try to start it again later; when it ran 
earlier it didn't make any really scary metal on metal noises; I haven't 
taken the oil filter apart to check for debris in it, either.

The mower is a Kubota T1670, about 13 years old, with a 15 HP OHV engine 
and 40 inch deck.  Until now it's been flawless. One new battery and 
annual oil changes, sharpen the blades at the beginning of the season.  
A new comparable mower from Kubota has a MSRP of about $3500, and I am 
not expecting much of a discount based on past history with Kubota.  The 
new model is 18 HP with a 42" deck.

Do  you think the engine's toast?  If so, do you think it would it be 
economical to have Kubota rebuild it?  (Yes, it's well within my skill 
set to rebuild it.  No, I'm not going to.  Other than routine 
maintenance,  I'm done wrenching on small gas engines.)  Other options?

Thanks
Dave
_______________________________________________

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References: <5175EA6E.6010803@frontier.com>
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 21:47:32 -0500
To: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Did I kill my mower?
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On Apr 22, 2013, at 8:57 PM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:

>
>
> Do  you think the engine's toast?  If so, do you think it would it be
economical to have Kubota rebuild it?  (Yes, it's well within my skill set to
rebuild it.  No, I'm not going to.  Other than routine maintenance,  I'm done
wrenching on small gas engines.)  Other options?
>

Change the filter, put some good oil in it, fix the carb, and mow. If you've
damaged the engine, it's not going to br cheaper to fix now, than it will be
when it's totally toast. If you haven't, you're worrying too much.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 20:03:42 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Did I kill my mower?
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Looks like I'm ok for the time being.  I left it on the charger for a 
bit and it started up and after running for a minute it ran fine. I 
finished the grass and it worked just like it always did, no smoke.  
This weekend I'll change the oil again with Delo 400  and put a new 
filter on it.  Those mowers are pretty tough.


On 4/22/2013 7:47 PM, David Scheidt wrote:
>
> On Apr 22, 2013, at 8:57 PM, Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Do  you think the engine's toast?  If so, do you think it would it be economical to have Kubota rebuild it?  (Yes, it's well within my skill set to rebuild it.  No, I'm not going to.  Other than routine maintenance,  I'm done wrenching on small gas engines.)  Other options?
>>
> Change the filter, put some good oil in it, fix the carb, and mow. If you've damaged the engine, it's not going to br cheaper to fix now, than it will be when it's totally toast. If you haven't, you're worrying too much.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 19:57:55 -0700
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
From: Todd Walke <racertod@racertodd.com>
	localhost.scooter.p.blarg.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Did I kill my mower?
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         I wonder if an oil analysis would be of help in determining the 
condition of the engine.

         If it seems to run OK, put several hours on it first.  Then pull 
an oil sample and send it to a lab.  If the wear metals are higher than 
normal, that would show that internal damage has been done.

         I use Blackstone Labs (http://www.blackstone-labs.com)to analyze 
the oil in my cars.  They'll send you a sample kit for free, you pay the 
$25 fee when you send it in.  On the sample slip, you can give some details 
of the gas-in-the-oilpan situation so they know what to look for.

         Also, try contacting them first.  They likely have dealt with 
similar situations and can advise you on how many hours to put on the 
engine before pulling a sample or if you should do anything else first.

         If they've done tests on that engine type in the past, they'll 
have average numbers for that motor.  Those can be compared to your 
sample.  My test reports show averages for both my engine and universal 
averages for my version of the TDI motor.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 276,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       401,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 26 07:58:53 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 09:42:35 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 04/26/2013 09:42:38, Serialize complete at
	04/26/2013 09:42:38
Subject: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass
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Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of.  Here are my 
options...

1-Sell it complete for maybe a $100-$200 (trailer included.)(Note, the 
boat needs work.)
2-Part it out and sell the components, then get rid of the hull.  (I'm 
estimating about $700-$1200 worth of parts)
3-Donate it complete

I was opting for #2.  If I go that route, I have to cut up the boat.  It's 
a single skin (no insulation or foam) hull.  I have a 2yd dumpster that I 
could put pieces in each week.

If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that 
concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.) 

If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw?

I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever.  What 
about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder?

Any advice?



Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:01:41 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 9:42 AM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
> Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of.  Here are my
> options...
>
> If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that
> concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.)
>
> If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw?

I'd be worried about my lungs.  I imagine there'd be lots of fibrous
dust.  Bad for you and your tool.

What about busting it with a hammer into smaller pieces?  Maybe an air
chisel and wide-blade implement?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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To: eric@megageek.com
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass
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On Apr 26, 2013, at 9:42 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>
> I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever.  What
> about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder?

I cut up a shower with a sawzall and demolition blade. It went quickly enough
that I could hold my breath. Boat may be made from something completely
different though.

Are you near a vo-tech school or sailing club/school? A donation could be
useful for either.
_______________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 09:15:14 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If you're going to cut it up, I'd use a recip saw with a medium blade, and
wear a mask and saftey glasses like Jeff suggested.

On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 9:01 AM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>wrote:

> On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 9:42 AM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
> > Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of.  Here are my
> > options...
> >
> > If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that
> > concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.)
> >
> > If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw?
>
> I'd be worried about my lungs.  I imagine there'd be lots of fibrous
> dust.  Bad for you and your tool.
>
> What about busting it with a hammer into smaller pieces?  Maybe an air
> chisel and wide-blade implement?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 10:21:20 -0500
From: Matt Wehland <mjw@littlegrassy.com>
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	with any abuse report
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

How big is the keel and is it lead?

Lead is worth money, don't put it in the dumpster.

If you want leads on selling the lead let me know.

Matt


On 4/26/2013 8:42 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of.  Here are my
> options...
>
> 1-Sell it complete for maybe a $100-$200 (trailer included.)(Note, the
> boat needs work.)
> 2-Part it out and sell the components, then get rid of the hull.  (I'm
> estimating about $700-$1200 worth of parts)
> 3-Donate it complete
>
> I was opting for #2.  If I go that route, I have to cut up the boat.  It's
> a single skin (no insulation or foam) hull.  I have a 2yd dumpster that I
> could put pieces in each week.
>
> If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that
> concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.)
>
> If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw?
>
> I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever.  What
> about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder?
>
> Any advice?
>
>
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mjw@littlegrassy.com
>
>


-- 
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 26 10:02:19 2013
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References: <3e799435.6e5d94.13e31e9801a.Webtop.47@charter.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 12:00:51 -0400
From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] slow disposal drain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have used the Zep Professional Drain Care with good results. It is
available at Home Depot.

I do typically try to put it down proactively, though that application is
pretty irregular...

-Peter
 On Apr 22, 2013 9:23 AM, "Tim" <tputland@charter.net> wrote:

> Since I have not yet gotten around to looking for bugs, I am interested in
> this info as well.
>
> So, PLEASE reply to the list.
>
> Thanks!!
> tim
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 22, 2013 at 7:58 AM, Karl Vacek wrote:
>
>  Based on the good experiences reported here, I decided to try "bugs" in
>> our
>> upstairs bathroom.  The tub drain runs a long way to the stack, and
>> sometimes gets slow.  Bleach always fixes it, but a permanent fix sounds
>> better.
>>
>> I went to Menard's and saw many kinds of enzymatic septic system cleaners,
>> but nothing that said it was intended for interior plumbing.  Same thing,
>> or
>> is there another product that I need to look for?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Karl
>> ______________________________**_________________
>>
> ______________________________**_________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> peterwmurray@gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com>
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 26 12:36:10 2013
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 19:34:30 +0100
From: Neil Sherry <neiljsherry@talktalk.net>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF39BBD232.A5767857-ON85257B59.004ACBAC-85257B59.004C646E@mail.megageek.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My Thoughts. Don't do it!
By all means strip and sell the fittings. But then with the hull:

    List it on ebay - for $5 - someone might take it away and save you
    the trouble of cutting it up! Or even keep it!
    It could be used in a playground for kids to climb over, turned
    upside down as a shed/playhouse, maybe a college could use it for
    structural testing analysis. It could be sunk in the ground as a
    pond, filled with soil and planted with flowers/vegetables (think
    jumbo window box - maybe at the side of the road outside your
    property). Or the front 8 ft could be cut off and stood up to form a
    sheltered seat - like this
    http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3187/2845782678_53ab5c3efb_z.jpg?zz=1

If you get really desperate, maybe break it up with a machine 
(backhoe/bulldozer etc) rather than cutting might work



On 26/04/2013 14:42, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of.  Here are my
> options...
>
> 1-Sell it complete for maybe a $100-$200 (trailer included.)(Note, the
> boat needs work.)
> 2-Part it out and sell the components, then get rid of the hull.  (I'm
> estimating about $700-$1200 worth of parts)
> 3-Donate it complete
>
> I was opting for #2.  If I go that route, I have to cut up the boat.  It's
> a single skin (no insulation or foam) hull.  I have a 2yd dumpster that I
> could put pieces in each week.
>
> If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that
> concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.)
>
> If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw?
>
> I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever.  What
> about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder?
>
> Any advice?
>
>
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry@talktalk.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 26 12:50:39 2013
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	<517AC8B6.7080208@talktalk.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 11:49:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
To: Neil Sherry <neiljsherry@talktalk.net>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Strip it and leave the hull by the side of the road with a "free" sign.  I think 
it would disappear...

best,

doug




----- Original Message ----
From: Neil Sherry <neiljsherry@talktalk.net>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, April 26, 2013 11:34:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass

My Thoughts. Don't do it!
By all means strip and sell the fittings. But then with the hull:

    List it on ebay - for $5 - someone might take it away and save you
    the trouble of cutting it up! Or even keep it!
    It could be used in a playground for kids to climb over, turned
    upside down as a shed/playhouse, maybe a college could use it for
    structural testing analysis. It could be sunk in the ground as a
    pond, filled with soil and planted with flowers/vegetables (think
    jumbo window box - maybe at the side of the road outside your
    property). Or the front 8 ft could be cut off and stood up to form a
    sheltered seat - like this
    http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3187/2845782678_53ab5c3efb_z.jpg?zz=1

If you get really desperate, maybe break it up with a machine 
(backhoe/bulldozer etc) rather than cutting might work



On 26/04/2013 14:42, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of.  Here are my
> options...
>
> 1-Sell it complete for maybe a $100-$200 (trailer included.)(Note, the
> boat needs work.)
> 2-Part it out and sell the components, then get rid of the hull.  (I'm
> estimating about $700-$1200 worth of parts)
> 3-Donate it complete
>
> I was opting for #2.  If I go that route, I have to cut up the boat.  It's
> a single skin (no insulation or foam) hull.  I have a 2yd dumpster that I
> could put pieces in each week.
>
> If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that
> concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.)
>
> If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw?
>
> I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever.  What
> about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder?
>
> Any advice?
>
>
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/neiljsherry@talktalk.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dirtbeard@pacbell.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 26 13:21:52 2013
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	<517AC8B6.7080208@talktalk.net>
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 15:16:32 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 2:49 PM, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net> wrote:
> Strip it and leave the hull by the side of the road with a "free" sign.  I think
> it would disappear...

Better yet, with a sign that says "ForSale: $100".  Then somebody is
sure to take it in the dark of night...
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 26 13:36:24 2013
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References: <OF39BBD232.A5767857-ON85257B59.004ACBAC-85257B59.004C646E@mail.megageek.com>
	<517AC8B6.7080208@talktalk.net>
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 12:29:13 -0700
From: Shannah Miller <shannahquilts@gmail.com>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

At the risk of being overly pedantic, if you do decide to cut
it up yourself, I would recommend using a respirator, and
not just a mask.

I used a mask with fiberglass, and still wound up with some
lung damage from it.

Shannah


On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 12:16 PM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>wrote:

> On Fri, Apr 26, 2013 at 2:49 PM, old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>
> wrote:
> > Strip it and leave the hull by the side of the road with a "free" sign.
>  I think
> > it would disappear...
>
> Better yet, with a sign that says "ForSale: $100".  Then somebody is
> sure to take it in the dark of night...
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shannahquilts@gmail.com
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 26 22:20:59 2013
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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 21:04:28 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130328
	Thunderbird/17.0.5
To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OF39BBD232.A5767857-ON85257B59.004ACBAC-85257B59.004C646E@mail.megageek.com>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting up fiberglass
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I'm afraid I'm not going to be much help, but I do have a story.

Some time ago, probably around 25 or so years ago, my youngest brother 
dragged an old sailboat (18 feet or so) and trailer out to my dad's 
acreage on the outskirts of League City, Tx, about 20 miles south of 
Houston.  I  understand he bought it for the trailer, and had grandiose 
ideas of selling the boat (if I know my brother).  The boat never did 
sell, and my dad kept bugging him to get rid of it. One day he showed up 
with a can of gas.  He borrowed my dad's chain saw and cut the boat up 
into pieces, and then set fire to them in the pasture (my brother tends 
to be somewhat ......impulsive).  I understand it was a relatively large 
and smoky fire.  In due course a representative from the local fire 
department stopped by, and his only comment was "most people wait until 
after dark to do things like that", and then left.

My brother is still alive, although still impulsive and (maybe a little 
more than) somewhat nuts.  I have no information on the fate of the 
chainsaw.




On 4/26/2013 6:42 AM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Ok, I have a 23' sailboat that I need to get rid of.  Here are my
> options...
>
> 1-Sell it complete for maybe a $100-$200 (trailer included.)(Note, the
> boat needs work.)
> 2-Part it out and sell the components, then get rid of the hull.  (I'm
> estimating about $700-$1200 worth of parts)
> 3-Donate it complete
>
> I was opting for #2.  If I go that route, I have to cut up the boat.  It's
> a single skin (no insulation or foam) hull.  I have a 2yd dumpster that I
> could put pieces in each week.
>
> If I cut it, can I use a chainsaw without damaging the saw (I'm not that
> concerned about the blade, I'll just use an old one.)
>
> If I wet the boat as I'm cutting, will this damage the saw?
>
> I've tried in the past to use a recip saw, but it took forever.  What
> about a carbide tip cir-saw or dia grinder?
>
> Any advice?
>
>
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 23:06:32 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac5DDV3R1/I4mCchTtK3mAFmp8ToDg==
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone using a salt chlorine generator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm replacing a bunch of swimming pool equipment, and several people are
trying to convince me to use an automatic salt chlorinator.  In the past,
I've used an "automatic" chlorinator that is nothing but a tank for chlorine
tablets, that the pump slowly forces water through.  What comes out is very
concentrated and corrodes everything in sight ... without it I probably
wouldn't be spending kilobucks now.
 
Just looking for some feedback from "the man who owns one".
 
Oh yeah, once the pool is happy again, I can get back to working in the
shop!
 
Randall
_______________________________________________

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From: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, "'Shop Talk'"
  <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Shop-talk] Anyone using a salt chlorine generator?
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone using a salt chlorine generator?
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Randall,

I have a salt generator and would highly recommend it. To maintain it you
simply add salt to the pool.  It is much simpler and easier than dealing with
chlorine tablets. It also seems to be much more stable and you don't get that
chlorine smell from the water.  I used chlorine tablets on my old pool and
would never have that type system again.

You will be able to spend less time worrying and working on the pool and more
time in the shop which is what it really is about anyway.

Ronald Olds
Sales Manager
Plasser American Corporation
PO Box 5464
2001 Myers Road
Chesapeake, VA 23324-0464
 
Phone  (757) 543-3526
Cell      (630) 240-0818
Fax      (757) 494-7186 
 
The information contained in this e-mail including any attachments may be
proprietary, privileged or confidential and is intended solely for the use of
the addressee. Any unauthorized distribution, disclosure or any other such use
is strictly prohibited. Furthermore, any reviews, dissemination or copying by
anyone other than the intended recipient is expressly prohibited. If you have
received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender and destroy all copies
of the original transmittal.

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 2:07 AM
To: 'Shop Talk'
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone using a salt chlorine generator?

I'm replacing a bunch of swimming pool equipment, and several people are
trying to convince me to use an automatic salt chlorinator.  In the past, I've
used an "automatic" chlorinator that is nothing but a tank for chlorine
tablets, that the pump slowly forces water through.  What comes out is very
concentrated and corrodes everything in sight ... without it I probably
wouldn't be spending kilobucks now.

Just looking for some feedback from "the man who owns one".

Oh yeah, once the pool is happy again, I can get back to working in the shop!

Randall
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rolds@plausa.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 06:52:12 -0500
Subject: [Shop-talk] searching for Yazoo parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys

My reliable source for Yazoo mower parts doesn't have what I need...  Mower is
a Yazoo   SV-22-b  22" big wheel mower from the late 70s - early 80s.  I've
used my last spare part off my parts mower and need a 'friction hub housing'
to get it moving again.... does ANYONE know of a parts source on these old
decks...  old lawnmower shops, graveyards, parts houses that might have this
discontined part ??  I hate to see this old warhorse die..  I can email pics
if needed

thanks
John



Many people are alive only because it's illegal to shoot them.
_______________________________________________

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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Full-Name: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 12:27:47 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Anyone using a salt chlorine generator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

+1 for the "pro" salt water pools...I have had ours 7 years and other than
adding salt and occasionally cleaning the cell, not a single problem. The only
downside I have heard is the cost of replacement - one neighbor had a
lightening strike take out his controller.Another had to buy a new generating
cell after a surprisingly short period - I suspect he neglected basic
management/maintenanceof the device. I think the technology is proven and cost
effective - I know it is easy to use!This and an automatic cleaner ( I have a
Polaris 280) make having a pool a snap. Matt in Georgia




---------- Original Message ----------
From: Ron Olds <rolds@plausa.com>


I have a salt generator and would highly recommend it.

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 2:07 AM
To: 'Shop Talk'
Subject: [Shop-talk] Anyone using a salt chlorine generator?


Just looking for some feedback from "the man who owns one".
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 15:23:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Shop-talk] POR15 WTF??!?!?!?!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I just opened a previously opened can of POR15. I had plastic under the 
lid so the can came open easily. Last time I opened this can was well 
over a year ago.

Once through the two different skins formed inside, I stuck the stir 
stick in, stirred a couple circles and the stuff started to expand like 
a soda that had been shook up (but thankfully not as fast!). It easily 
doubled its volume before it calmed down. Now it just looks slightly 
carbonated.

Anyone seen this before?

Think I can still use it and trust it to be as bullet proof as usual? Or 
am I out almost a pint of this expensive stuff?

Thanks
tim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 17:01:44 2013
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 19:00:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Shop-talk] incorrect AN fitting?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I startrd making fuel lines today and have run into what looks to be an 
incorrect fitting for stainless steel braided lines.

The bottom one is a standard 6AN fitting and looks different than the 
banjo bolt on top.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/82293958@N06/8690747806/

Does the banjo bolt fitting look like it will work or not? Because the 
threads are so different, I cannot see how but have not done this 
before....

Thanks
tim
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 28 22:22:09 2013
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Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 22:20:40 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <144c8939.739023.13e52dfdc4e.Webtop.45@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] incorrect AN fitting?
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If the red nut threads on it should work.

mjb.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 19:43:54 2013
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 21:22:38 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 04/29/2013 21:22:40, Serialize complete at
	04/29/2013 21:22:40
Subject: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, I've got a quick question.  I'm in NJ and I have a trailer for 
sailboat that a guy in NC wants to buy.

NJ only requires a "bill of Sale" for trailer registration, but he says 
that NC requires a title.

Any idea how to go about this?  I'm trying to sell a project sailboat and 
he seems interested. 

BTW, here is a shameless link to the ebay listing of the project sailboat 
in case anyone else wants to increase their time required in the shop 
(obshop content!)  8>)

>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-23-Aquarius-Sailboat-with-dual-axle-trailer-documents-and-clean-titles-/271198705272?_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&forcev4exp=true 
<

It's old, ugly, rough, and dirty...  But then again, so am I.  8>0

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 20:44:24 2013
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 22:37:56 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I would say he should go to this site:

http://www.ncdot.gov/dmv/vehicle/title/vehicles/

and scroll down to the "trailers" section, where it says:

"Trailers are registered the same way as a car.  Visit the Titles 
Section for the steps involved in registering a vehicle.  Individuals 
coming from a state that does not title and register trailers would 
need to contact us."

They have a link, phone number and email info there.  I don't think 
this is a situation they haven't dealt with before.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 09:22 PM 4/29/2013, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>OK, I've got a quick question.  I'm in NJ and I have a trailer for
>sailboat that a guy in NC wants to buy.
>
>NJ only requires a "bill of Sale" for trailer registration, but he says
>that NC requires a title.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 22:02:56 2013
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, <eric@megageek.com>
References: <OF94E78951.9C03E2A3-ON85257B5D.00073D43-85257B5D.00092E21@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 23:47:25 -0400
	a=PbegmIzJZiEA:10 a=P2oOn6vrs4wA:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

When we moved from MA to NC in 2000 I had a homemade car trailer. IIRC, I 
didn't have a MA title but I did have MA registration. NC issued me a VIN 
that I had to stamp onto the tongue of the trailer then take it to a DMV 
office so a State Trooper could inspect the VIN (I was issued a temporary 
registration & tag - aka license plate - for that purpose). Once thusly 
inspected I was issued a NC title & registration. Other than having to write 
a check to the NC DMV it was fairly painless. It seemed like they'd done it 
all before.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <eric@megageek.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2013 9:22 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states.


> OK, I've got a quick question.  I'm in NJ and I have a trailer for
> sailboat that a guy in NC wants to buy.
>
> NJ only requires a "bill of Sale" for trailer registration, but he says
> that NC requires a title.
>
> Any idea how to go about this?  I'm trying to sell a project sailboat and
> he seems interested.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 22:32:59 2013
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From: "Mark Miller" <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 21:03:17 -0700
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Subject: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok.  So my Echo string trimmer was acting up.  Seemed like a fuel problem;
it would start but not run well, stall out, and needed the throttle and
choke played with to keep it going.  So I bought fresh gas and went to get a
carb rebuild kit for it.  The guy also recommended a new fuel filter so I
got that as well.  Put in fresh gas (the old was probably only 2 months or
so but figured it couldn't hurt....) and the filter, gave it a shot and no
change.  OK, it needs a rebuild.  I got too busy so I put it off.  Then my
wife let me know that I would be feeding the mini-donks and horse if she
couldn't get to the shed through the weeds and so to be sure it got done I
bought a cheesy little electric B&D string trimmer and (here's the really
bad part): it was great.  No futzing, weighed way less than the gas trimmer,
less buzzy, didn't stink, the string feed is totally automatic and actually
worked (no more need to cut pieces and change it all the damn time.  Oh
yeah, and it starts without having to think about it.  
But But But I have turned my back on a tool with an engine in place of one
with a dinky little electric motor and a cord.  Convince me I need to fix
the Echo and use a real tool.   

Help,
Mark Miller
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 29 22:33:22 2013
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References: <OF94E78951.9C03E2A3-ON85257B5D.00073D43-85257B5D.00092E21@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 00:08:57 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Apr 29, 2013 at 9:22 PM,  <eric@megageek.com> wrote:
> NJ only requires a "bill of Sale" for trailer registration, but he says
> that NC requires a title.


Others have answered the question, but let me add this anecdote...I
sold a VW pickup truck from Georgia to Texas.  Georgia only required a
bill of sale to transfer ownership of a vehicle that old (1967), but
Texas required a title (which I didn't have, and couldn't replace).
The buyer and I did a little research, and found that if it was
currently registered and had a notarized bill of sale, that was enough
to begin the titling process in Texas.  So I sold it to my wife for
$1, insured it for three days for $10, and registered it for $20.
Sent the paperwork to the buyer and he got it done with little
trouble.

Like the other replies said, they've done this before.  You might have
to be persistent in finding someone familiar with the process, but it
can be done.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 30 01:20:20 2013
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From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
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To: markmiller@threeboysfarm.com
References: <FF9F7DE36E8D431BA1A9DAE38B374B8F@SusieandMarkPC>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong
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Mark Miller wrote:
>   But But I have turned my back on a tool with an engine in place of one
> with a dinky little electric motor and a cord.  Convince me I need to fix
> the Echo and use a real tool.
>
>

No, you did the right thing. Firstly, you're building up spousal credits 
to be redeemed against some situation lurking unseen in the future. 
Secondly life is too short to spend time wrestling with that cubic inch 
of frustration that is the Walbro carburettor. Time that could be spent 
balancing twin SUs or setting up a threadcutting lathe, something that 
needs your native skill and cunning.

Seriously though I found an electric chainsaw sitting in the back of the 
barn the other day, cleaned it up and put it to work. Now I use it in 
preference to the 2 stroke Stihl for small jobs if there's a power 
supply handy. There's a lot to be said for a machine that starts and 
stops when you want it and doesn't leave you working in a fug of exhaust 
fumes.

Nick Brearley
Two Echo strimmers waiting to be fixed in the corner of the shop.
_______________________________________________

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From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
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To: markmiller@threeboysfarm.com
References: <FF9F7DE36E8D431BA1A9DAE38B374B8F@SusieandMarkPC>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] I feel . . . wrong  And another thing.
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Mark Miller wrote:
> Convince me I need to fix
> the Echo and use a real tool.
>

If you really can't resist, take it to someone with an ultrasonic 
cleaner. It'll be some of the best dollars you'll ever spend.

Nick B
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Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 13:56:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] incorrect AN fitting?
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It looks like the banjo bolt fitting is going to turn out to be for a 
bigger ID hose....more mis-picked parts on this invoice....bloody hell.

On Sun, Apr 28, 2013 at 6:00 PM, Tim wrote:

  I startrd making fuel lines today and have run into what looks to be 
an incorrect fitting for stainless steel braided lines.

The bottom one is a standard 6AN fitting and looks different than the 
banjo bolt on top.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/82293958@N06/8690747806/

Does the banjo bolt fitting look like it will work or not? Because the 
threads are so different, I cannot see how but have not done this 
before....

Thanks
tim
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References: <OF94E78951.9C03E2A3-ON85257B5D.00073D43-85257B5D.00092E21@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 15:10:06 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Transferring trailers across states.
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> OK, I've got a quick question.  I'm in NJ and I have a trailer for
> sailboat that a guy in NC wants to buy.
>
> NJ only requires a "bill of Sale" for trailer registration, but he says
> that NC requires a title.

The only way I found to sell my untitled MA trailer to my CO
needs-title-and-BOS friend was to let her drive it there with my plates.
Since the towing vehicle is primarily responsible for insurance, this was
mostly a non-issue.

jim
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 30 13:36:03 2013
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---- Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote: 

> Like the other replies said, they've done this before.  You might have
> to be persistent in finding someone familiar with the process, but it
> can be done.

Sometimes you have to be very persistent.  Not the same problem, but when I wanted to register my 56 Triumph TR3 using plates that had been assigned to it in 1963; I wound up having to print out the relevant section of the vehicle code and show it to the clerk and her supervisor at the DMV.  Even then they refused to approve my application on the spot, but they did agree to send it to state headquarters in Sacramento, who approved it a few weeks later.

Randall
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---- Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com> wrote: 

> But But But I have turned my back on a tool with an engine in place of one
> with a dinky little electric motor and a cord.  Convince me I need to fix
> the Echo and use a real tool.   

Sorry, Mark.  I'm as big a fan of Our Lady of Internal Combustion as anyone, but if electric meets your needs better, I'd say go for it.

My experience was that the electric trimmer just didn't have what it takes to slash through weeds too thick to walk through (or even see over), so I rebuilt the carb on my old Homelite without a rebuild kit (gaskets cut from construction paper, etc.).  But if it had done the job (and I didn't have to drag a cord up a nearly vertical hill), I would have kept using the little electric.  It was still handy for trimming around the flower beds and so on.

Randall
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 30 20:13:48 2013
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I keep my big old bicycle handled Stihl around for murdering brush and 
high weeks (and the occasional banana slug) but after getting two light 
duty gas string trimmers that my wife couldn't start, I got her a 
plug-in Stihl that she's thrilled with.  This was after the old yellow 
single line Weed Eater she inherited from her dad finally bit the dust.

Now if she would just put the damn extension cord away....



On 4/30/2013 12:46 PM, Randall wrote:
> ---- Mark Miller <markmiller@threeboysfarm.com> wrote:
>
>> But But But I have turned my back on a tool with an engine in place of one
>> with a dinky little electric motor and a cord.  Convince me I need to fix
>> the Echo and use a real tool.
> Sorry, Mark.  I'm as big a fan of Our Lady of Internal Combustion as anyone, but if electric meets your needs better, I'd say go for it.
>
> My experience was that the electric trimmer just didn't have what it takes to slash through weeds too thick to walk through (or even see over), so I rebuilt the carb on my old Homelite without a rebuild kit (gaskets cut from construction paper, etc.).  But if it had done the job (and I didn't have to drag a cord up a nearly vertical hill), I would have kept using the little electric.  It was still handy for trimming around the flower beds and so on.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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