Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide

From: PJ McGarvey <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 21:12:45 -0500

Nope, I didn't even realize that was something people were doing - and I'm
wondering why (though I'm guessing something to do with the strength of the
bolt head for torquing?).
Maybe a thicker drill bit wouldn't have a problem bending and breaking so
easily, almost seems like you're asking for trouble by using that guide and
with such a small bit.

> From: [email-masked]
> CC: [email-masked]
> Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 11:02:58 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Safety Wire Drill Guide
>
> > Not sure if there's any secret here.  I've drilled a dozen
> > 1/8" safety wire holes in Grade 8 bolts before using a single
> > cobalt bit in a drill press, and without the tool you linked
> > to -
>
> But did you start on the corner of the bolt head?  That's what the
linked-to
> tool is designed to do; and it has a guide right next to the bolt head to
> hold the drill on-center to the corner.  Seems to me that even a cobalt bit
> is going to grab the corner of the bolt head and bind or break; unless you
> grind a small flat for the bit to start into.
>
> -- Randall
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From: Mark Andy <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 09:49:12 -0500

Howdy,

As to "why?" I'm guessing its "don't have to drill as much".  Going
through a corner of a bolt head seems like it'd be a heck of a lot
less material to remove.

As for how to actually drill it... I would think it'd be pretty
sensitive to what drills you were using and what feed rates.  Seems
like since you're catching the corner on an angle, it would be pretty
easy to overfeed it, causing the drill to take too much of a bite and
snap.  Is that what's happening, or is it something else?  Might have
a similar problem coming out, but the bit should be even better
supported there.

All that said... I've always done like someone else posted and drilled
straight through, flat to flat.  And I've broken off my share of bits
doing it, particularly when I've done it using a hand drill.

Mark

On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 9:12 PM, PJ McGarvey <[email-masked]> wrote:
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

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From: Scott <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2013 09:54:50 -0500

A bike I bought had a few that were drilled through the edges of a bolt. 
I'm trying to remember why now, but at the time it seemed to make sense 
for that particular bolt. But like Mark said, I've never drilled those 
myself. I have a hard-enough time drilling through flat-to-flat.

I'd do like Randall (I think) said, and grind a flat, then drill. It 
seems like the fixtures designed to make things easier are hit-and-miss. 
Some are helpful, and others are just a waste of money.

[email-masked]

---

From: Jim Juhas <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 20:50:56 -0500

I originally posted this question. While the jig presumably can be used on
bolt heads, my interest was for locking nuts, not bolt heads, with safety
wire. The applications for this include locking the nuts on an external oil
pump where the cover is mounted over studs, generally light torque situations.
Another method I have used is a castled nut and a hole through the end of the
thread on a bolt, but that's not always feasible on the end of a stud.

Sent via iPad
Jim Juhas

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