Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting roots

From: "John T. Blair" <[email-masked]> mail.megageek.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 17:10:43 -0500

At 04:45 PM 1/22/2013, you wrote:

 >....So, I have the ability to lift the stumps out of the ground, 
but my question is, what should I
 >use to cut the roots?  Many of these are huge.  I do not dare take 
a chainsaw blade to a dirty
 >root.  I can use an axe, but there are lots of them and most a very large.

Eric,

When I had to have the sewer drain line replaced the plumber used a 
battery operated reciprocating (saw-s-all) saw to cut through tree roots.

John

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From: "Karl Vacek" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 16:48:36 -0600

I've cut many huge roots in the ground with 12" coarse-tooth Sawzall blades.
They last amazingly long, even in our very sandy soil.
Karl

-----Original Message-----
>....So, I have the ability to lift the stumps out of the ground, but my
question is, what should I  >use to cut the roots?  Many of these are huge.
I do not dare take a chainsaw blade to a dirty  >root.  I can use an axe,
but there are lots of them and most a very large.
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From: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 18:11:43 -0500

On Tue, Jan 22, 2013 at 4:45 PM,  <[email-masked]> wrote:
> but my
> question is, what should I use to cut the roots?

Another vote for the reciprocating saw.  If you have a lot of roots,
though, a 120V saw and a small generator like the Honda 1000 type may
be a better choice.  Otherwise, you may spend some time waiting to
recharge batteries.
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From: [email-masked]
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 18:44:56 -0500 (EST)

ditto on the saw zall, and 120VAC vs batt models.

Hurricaine Fran survivor.

[email-masked]

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From: "Elton E. (Tony) Clark" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 19:50:54 -0600

*I had a similar situation and the recip-saw sounds smart but I just used
my chain saw and bought it a new chain when I finished.*
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From: Brian Kemp <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 18:59:15 -0800

Eric - The reciprocating saw is probably the best recommendation, but I 
also second the recommendation of just trashing a blade in the chain 
saw.  In the end the time saved may be worth the cost of a blade.

I have a little pruning saw I now use for roots when fixing in ground 
sprinklers.  It hurt a little the first time, but then I bought a better 
saw that only does tree pruning.

If you are worried about trashing the saw itself, get a cheap (used?) 
electric saw and don't worry about it.  I have a Remington that was $40 
that is fair for occasional use near the house.

If you want an arm workout and can get around the roots, consider a rope 
saw like
http://www.harborfreight.com/long-reach-rope-chain-saw-97092.html (I 
know nothing about this one in particular)

To toss in something different, if you have a SDS drill, get a flat 
chisel like the one below and sharpen it with a grinder.  Put the drill 
in hammer mode only and carve away.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-sds-masonry-flat-chisel-set-42651.html

I did this to a root cluster between my spa and a retaining wall.  I had 
been going at it with a hatchet, but broke the blade and wore out my 
arm.  It was too rocky for a reciprocating saw and several roots were 
twisted in a big clump, so it was tough to chop.  This will likely not 
be as fast as a saw, but could be fun for a few roots that might not be 
easy to get in other ways.

If you don't have the drill, watch for it on sale.
I got 
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-1-inch-sds-rotary-hammer-97743.html 
or an earlier version for $69 with sale and coupon a few years ago. 
These are much better than a regular hammer drill for bigger holes in 
concrete.  I've also played connect the dots to make 4" holes through 
retaining walls to run drain pipe.  It is a fun tool for a while.

If the trees are not too big, get a Bobcat and a chain, wrap a root and 
lift the bucket.  If you can't pull out the root, move up to a backhoe 
or a dozer.  Probably best to rent one of these.

If I remember correctly, you had a fork lift.  Drive close and hook a 
chain to the base of one of the forks and you can probably get some good 
pulling action.

Brian

On 1/22/2013 1:45 PM, [email-masked] wrote:
> OK, for us Hurricane Sandy survivors, there is still alot of clean up
> left.   I have lots of friends that have tree stumps that need to be
> removed.  Having a stump grinder, this should be easy. BUT most of these
> are overturned trees, rendering the stump grinder useless.
>
> So, I have the ability to lift the stumps out of the ground, but my
> question is, what should I use to cut the roots?  Many of these are huge.
> I do not dare take a chainsaw blade to a dirty root.  I can use an axe,
> So, is there a technique for this?  Better yet, is there a new tool I can
> buy?  8>)
>
> I'm interested in any words of wisdom on these process.  I normally don't
> have to remove uprooted stumps.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
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From: Peter Murray <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 22:04:31 -0500

If this is something you are going to do a lot of, then the reciprocating
saw may be the best option, since decent blades are very inexpensive. (I
like the DeWalt blades.)

I will say, though, that my first inclination echoes Tony Clark's
suggestion - use the chainsaw. I would use an older chain and not worry too
much about it. You can certainly also try to sharpen it if it gets too
dull, and toss it if it is beyond a sharpening. Chains aren't that
expensive, and you'd get through the roots much faster with a
not-fully-sharp chain than you will with a brand new 3TPI reciprocating
blade.

-Peter

On Tue, Jan 22, 2013 at 8:50 PM, Elton E. (Tony) Clark <[email-masked]
> wrote:

> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

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From: Peter Murray <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 22:08:17 -0500

Oh, and look at me making the junior-grade mistake - it didn't even occur
to me to involve hydraulics!

-Peter

On Tue, Jan 22, 2013 at 9:59 PM, Brian Kemp <[email-masked]> wrote:

> also second the recommendation of just trashing a blade in the chain saw.
>  In the end the time saved may be worth the cost of a blade.
>
> [snip]
>
> lift the bucket.  If you can't pull out the root, move up to a backhoe or a
> dozer.  Probably best to rent one of these.
>

[email-masked]

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From: Dave C <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 19:39:57 -0800

That would be my suggestion, too.  A backhoe/excavator with a thumb 
and/or a cat, then a tub grinder, assuming you can't pile them up and 
burn them.

[email-masked]

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From: Jim Stone <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 07:29:20 -0600

I have used a reciprocating saw as well, but the mention of hydraulics reminds
me that I have also used my engine lift.  Depending on how big the trees are,
if you can get a chain to grab something, it can be used to just pull it up
enough to easily cut the tap root or just break it off.

> From: [email-masked]
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 22:08:17 -0500
> To: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting roots
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
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