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From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 15:18:17 -0500
	FILETIME=[EC6B3C40:01CD887E]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing
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My wife and I are about to buy a home that we will eventually retire to.  The
plan it to rent it out until that time, which is a factor in the question I am
about to ask.  The house (like me, built in the early 50's) has wrought iron
railing around the front entry way and steps that go to a side door.  It all
needs to be repainted, but one of the vertical supports on the side steps has
cracked about an inch above the base.  It just appears to be square tube, but
it was all cast in place, meaning the tube is embedded in the concrete.  I
will eventually want to replace all of it with something more attractive, but
for now I just want it to be safe and not something that will lead to a
lawsuit from a renter.

I am thinking that I could wire brush the paint away from around the crack,
clean off any rust and then weld the crack up.  To be absolutely safe, I would
also weld some angle iron on the two corners by the crack, repaint the whole
railing and forget about it until after retirement.  For what its worth, I
don't want to lug shielding gas with me, so I was planning on just using flux
core wire in my welder.  It can be windy near the house, so that might be a
good idea anyway.

At least that is my plan, but I have never worked on wrought iron railing
before.  I know I can't weld the decorative parts of the railing, but does
anyone see any problems with this plan?  Anything special I should consider
before tackling it?

As always, thanks!

Jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  1 15:01:07 2012
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From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
References: <COL115-W61E7CD0A136DB382840BBFCCA50@phx.gbl>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing
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Jim,

Did it crack because of rust?  If so, it might take a bit more effort to 
go back to solid metal.  I have two suggestions I was looking at for myself.

One is to see them fix a porch railing at
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/tv/ask-toh/video/0,,20555837,00.html

If I recall correctly, they took the railing and cut off the damaged 
bottom.  They then had new square sections with a steel rod inside. They 
used some sort of caulk/adhesive and attached the repair portion to the 
bottom of the rail.  They used a hammer drill to remove the railing post 
from the cement.  Finally, they put the railing back in place with new 
cement.

Another option is to fabricate a foot plate on a segment of square tube 
and use some concrete screws/bolts to attach it to the step.

I'll be doing one of the two with some of my iron railing that is rusted 
away at the base.  I just have not picked which one.

If there is no rust, you may be able to just weld it up, but I can't 
offer any tips there as I only welded once.  It was 3/16" steel to make 
shock brackets for my TR6, and they have held up nicely, but it did take 
some time with the grinder to get pretty.

Brian

On 9/1/2012 1:18 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
> My wife and I are about to buy a home that we will eventually retire to.  The
> plan it to rent it out until that time, which is a factor in the question I am
> about to ask.  The house (like me, built in the early 50's) has wrought iron
> railing around the front entry way and steps that go to a side door.  It all
> needs to be repainted, but one of the vertical supports on the side steps has
> cracked about an inch above the base.  It just appears to be square tube, but
> it was all cast in place, meaning the tube is embedded in the concrete.  I
> will eventually want to replace all of it with something more attractive, but
> for now I just want it to be safe and not something that will lead to a
> lawsuit from a renter.
>
> I am thinking that I could wire brush the paint away from around the crack,
> clean off any rust and then weld the crack up.  To be absolutely safe, I would
> also weld some angle iron on the two corners by the crack, repaint the whole
> railing and forget about it until after retirement.  For what its worth, I
> don't want to lug shielding gas with me, so I was planning on just using flux
> core wire in my welder.  It can be windy near the house, so that might be a
> good idea anyway.
>
> At least that is my plan, but I have never worked on wrought iron railing
> before.  I know I can't weld the decorative parts of the railing, but does
> anyone see any problems with this plan?  Anything special I should consider
> before tackling it?
>
> As always, thanks!
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek@ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 17:23:57 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing
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Just be aware, if you're welding right along the concrete, that when welding
heat hits the concrete, moisture in the concrete will quickly heat into
steam and explode pieces of the concrete out - right at you.  If the
concrete is already cracked, maybe you'd be better off to break it away for
an inch or two at least.  If the concrete is still good, perhaps inserting a
solid piece of steel down into the part of the upright that's left in the
concrete and up into the part above-grade would be safer than welding.

If you want to go for it anyway, try to shield the concrete as well as
possible, and preferably preheat the railing in that area to drive off as
much moisture as possible before you start actually welding.  And if the
railing is the current-type thin and cheap stuff, maybe slipping a tube or
solid into the upright and also welding would be helpful, since a plain butt
weld into thin and rusted steel will be weak.

Karl


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Stone
Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing

My wife and I are about to buy a home that we will eventually retire to.
The plan it to rent it out until that time, which is a factor in the
question I am about to ask.  The house (like me, built in the early 50's)
has wrought iron railing around the front entry way and steps that go to a
side door.  It all needs to be repainted, but one of the vertical supports
on the side steps has cracked about an inch above the base.  It just appears
to be square tube, but it was all cast in place, meaning the tube is
embedded in the concrete.  I will eventually want to replace all of it with
something more attractive, but for now I just want it to be safe and not
something that will lead to a lawsuit from a renter.

I am thinking that I could wire brush the paint away from around the crack,
clean off any rust and then weld the crack up.  To be absolutely safe, I
would also weld some angle iron on the two corners by the crack, repaint the
whole railing and forget about it until after retirement.  For what its
worth, I don't want to lug shielding gas with me, so I was planning on just
using flux core wire in my welder.  It can be windy near the house, so that
might be a good idea anyway.

At least that is my plan, but I have never worked on wrought iron railing
before.  I know I can't weld the decorative parts of the railing, but does
anyone see any problems with this plan?  Anything special I should consider
before tackling it?

As always, thanks!

Jim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  1 18:45:16 2012
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From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: <kvacek@ameritech.net>, "shop-talk@autox.team.net"
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 19:47:31 -0500
References: <000901cd8890$7b153cf0$713fb6d0$@ameritech.net>
	FILETIME=[89096200:01CD88A4]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks guys.  The house is 1000 miles away, so I can't easily go take another
look, but while the crack is rusty, I don't it cracked because of the rust.
And, because I think it is close to 60 years old, I am going to assume it is
thick enough to weld up.  That, said, the This Old House way of doing it right
is very good to know!  I will go that route if my initial patch doesn't hold
up.

As for the concrete, that is a very important point, one I hadn't thought of.
I will bring a gas torch with me to pre-heat the area, and a welding blanket
to lay down around it, just for additional protection.  The concrete is
already cracked, but that is the second question I was going to ask.  I will
ask that one separately, so that the information will be easier for someone
else to retrieve if they are ever looking.

Thanks again!  Exactly the advice I needed.

> From: kvacek@ameritech.net
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 17:23:57 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing
>
> Just be aware, if you're welding right along the concrete, that when
welding
> heat hits the concrete, moisture in the concrete will quickly heat into
> steam and explode pieces of the concrete out - right at you.  If the
> concrete is already cracked, maybe you'd be better off to break it away for
> an inch or two at least.  If the concrete is still good, perhaps inserting
a
> solid piece of steel down into the part of the upright that's left in the
> concrete and up into the part above-grade would be safer than welding.
>
> If you want to go for it anyway, try to shield the concrete as well as
> possible, and preferably preheat the railing in that area to drive off as
> much moisture as possible before you start actually welding.  And if the
> railing is the current-type thin and cheap stuff, maybe slipping a tube or
> solid into the upright and also welding would be helpful, since a plain
butt
> weld into thin and rusted steel will be weak.
>
> Karl
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Stone
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing Wrought Iron Railing
>
> My wife and I are about to buy a home that we will eventually retire to.
> The plan it to rent it out until that time, which is a factor in the
> question I am about to ask.  The house (like me, built in the early 50's)
> has wrought iron railing around the front entry way and steps that go to a
> side door.  It all needs to be repainted, but one of the vertical supports
> on the side steps has cracked about an inch above the base.  It just
appears
> to be square tube, but it was all cast in place, meaning the tube is
> embedded in the concrete.  I will eventually want to replace all of it with
> something more attractive, but for now I just want it to be safe and not
> something that will lead to a lawsuit from a renter.
>
> I am thinking that I could wire brush the paint away from around the crack,
> clean off any rust and then weld the crack up.  To be absolutely safe, I
> would also weld some angle iron on the two corners by the crack, repaint
the
> whole railing and forget about it until after retirement.  For what its
> worth, I don't want to lug shielding gas with me, so I was planning on just
> using flux core wire in my welder.  It can be windy near the house, so that
> might be a good idea anyway.
>
> At least that is my plan, but I have never worked on wrought iron railing
> before.  I know I can't weld the decorative parts of the railing, but does
> anyone see any problems with this plan?  Anything special I should consider
> before tackling it?
>
> As always, thanks!
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99@msn.com
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  1 19:00:08 2012
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From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 20:02:02 -0500
	FILETIME=[8FF5ED20:01CD88A6]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Repairing a Concrete Step
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

So, besides the broken railing, the corner of the step by that railing is
broken.  (Which may explain the broken railing: someone may have put too much
weight on it and broken both the railing and the step.) It is still attached
to the rest of the step, but the crack goes all the way around (creating a
kind of pyramid shape) and I assume a good hammer blow will knock it off.  I
also want to fix that after I am finished repairing the railing.  I have never
done concrete repair before, but it doesn't look too difficult.  I do think I
would need some way to make sure the patch stays attached to the rest of the
step.  I spent some time looking at the Quickrete products at Home Depot today
and see they have several different bonding agents that are designed to help.
I was also thinking about doing something like putting a couple of lag bolts
into the base, perhaps with lead anchors, sizing them so they would be
completely encased in the new concrete.  Then build a wood form around the
area and pour in new concrete.

Would that work?  Is there a better way to do it?

Thanks.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  1 20:48:53 2012
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Date: Sat, 01 Sep 2012 19:50:44 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
References: <COL115-W420DA7A3B2F371C13569E4CCA40@phx.gbl>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing a Concrete Step
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jim - Home Depot and Quickrete have a series of videos on just that 
subject.  See
http://howto.homedepot.com/videos/watch/876670650001/How-to-Repair-Concrete-Steps-and-Edges-Using-Quikrete-Fast-Setting-Concrete-The-Home-Depot.html

They also have a video on concrete resurfacing.

Brian

On 9/1/2012 6:02 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
> So, besides the broken railing, the corner of the step by that railing is
> broken.  (Which may explain the broken railing: someone may have put too much
> weight on it and broken both the railing and the step.) It is still attached
> to the rest of the step, but the crack goes all the way around (creating a
> kind of pyramid shape) and I assume a good hammer blow will knock it off.  I
> also want to fix that after I am finished repairing the railing.  I have never
> done concrete repair before, but it doesn't look too difficult.  I do think I
> would need some way to make sure the patch stays attached to the rest of the
> step.  I spent some time looking at the Quickrete products at Home Depot today
> and see they have several different bonding agents that are designed to help.
> I was also thinking about doing something like putting a couple of lag bolts
> into the base, perhaps with lead anchors, sizing them so they would be
> completely encased in the new concrete.  Then build a wood form around the
> area and pour in new concrete.
>
> Would that work?  Is there a better way to do it?
>
> Thanks.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sat Sep  1 22:07:25 2012
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 00:07:07 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/02/2012 00:01:56, Serialize complete at
	09/02/2012 00:01:56
Subject: [Shop-talk] Charger sizing question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Ok, I found a new Vector Sport Spot light (Model vec1395) 3000000 candle 
power flashlight.

It's a cheap model, so I'm not expecting much, but I don't have a charger 
for it.  Does anyone know how to calculate what size charger I need?

The Battery is a lead acid 6V6AH/20HR battery.  (It's model number is 
CP0660)

So, what size charger do I need.  There is a replacement one listed on 
Amazon, but it's not for this exact model (its for a Vec139 and I'm not 
sure if that will work with this one.)

Thanks in advance!

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  2 07:14:46 2012
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From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
To: <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 08:17:25 -0500
References: <COL115-W420DA7A3B2F371C13569E4CCA40@phx.gbl>,
	<5042C984.7070902@earthlink.net>
	FILETIME=[4B79B520:01CD890D]
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing a Concrete Step
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Perfect!  Exactly what I need and much easier than what I was thinking.
Thanks Brian.

> Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 19:50:44 -0700
> From: bk13@earthlink.net
> To: jandkstone99@msn.com
> CC: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Repairing a Concrete Step
>
> Jim - Home Depot and Quickrete have a series of videos on just that
> subject.  See
>
http://howto.homedepot.com/videos/watch/876670650001/How-to-Repair-Concrete-S
teps-and-Edges-Using-Quikrete-Fast-Setting-Concrete-The-Home-Depot.html
>
> They also have a video on concrete resurfacing.
>
> Brian
>
> On 9/1/2012 6:02 PM, Jim Stone wrote:
> > So, besides the broken railing, the corner of the step by that railing is
> > broken.  (Which may explain the broken railing: someone may have put too
much
> > weight on it and broken both the railing and the step.) It is still
attached
> > to the rest of the step, but the crack goes all the way around (creating
a
> > kind of pyramid shape) and I assume a good hammer blow will knock it off.
I
> > also want to fix that after I am finished repairing the railing.  I have
never
> > done concrete repair before, but it doesn't look too difficult.  I do
think I
> > would need some way to make sure the patch stays attached to the rest of
the
> > step.  I spent some time looking at the Quickrete products at Home Depot
today
> > and see they have several different bonding agents that are designed to
help.
> > I was also thinking about doing something like putting a couple of lag
bolts
> > into the base, perhaps with lead anchors, sizing them so they would be
> > completely encased in the new concrete.  Then build a wood form around
the
> > area and pour in new concrete.
> >
> > Would that work?  Is there a better way to do it?
> >
> > Thanks.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________

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Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 13:18:10 -0500
From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing.  There's a front for it,
there's nothing blocking the space, and there's no reason not to have
one.  (paricularly since the opening is 24" wide, and the other
drawers are all narrow.)  I'd like to buy a box, install it , and
attach the existing front to it.  Anyone have suggestions on where to
get such a thing?  None of the local big box places do.

-- 
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek@ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 13:29:09 -0500
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Fence cost
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Not actually shop related, but

Its Sunday on a holiday weekend and I need to finish this job.  Nobodys
available to get a local quote.  Can anyone give me an estimated cost
differential for micro-mesh chain link fence fabric over regular fabric?
What I need to value has about > or 5/8 fabric  probably 11 gauge, vs the
more typical 2, 9 gauge wire.



Like in hand grenades and horse shoes, close is good enough  any guess is
fine.  This is nothing anyone is quoting as a job  Im just appraising a
property for a tax protest, and I havent ever run into this stuff till now.
I only need to be reasonable and not pull the value from the air.



Im supposing its probably double the installed cost, with a higher
material cost and about the same labor?



Thanks!
Karl
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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  2 15:14:03 2012
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To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, "David Scheidt"
	<dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2012 15:44:48 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box
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Quoting David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>:
> Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing. 

Perfect excuse (if you need an excuse...) to buy a table saw, router, 
dovetal jig & make a drawer... 

Or look at the ads in Fine Woodworking magazine - I've seen ads for 
places that sell drawer parts. 

Or send me some dimensions and I'll send you the parts to assemble for 
a drawer box. 

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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To: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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David - If you want someone to make them, a local cabinetry place can 
probably do it.  If you can do basic woodworking, some prefinished 
drawer sides may make it easier to do yourself.

As an example see
http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Finished-Drawer-Side-CAPITOL-LUMBER/dp/B0027A5VOQ
(just took a quick look for "drawer sides")

Local plywood/lumber suppliers may stock them.  The sides are all precut 
for height and the plywood bottom, so all you need to do is make some 
cuts, attach the corners, and cut a bottom.  You will also need slides 
of course.

Brian

On 9/2/2012 11:18 AM, David Scheidt wrote:
> Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing.  There's a front for it,
> there's nothing blocking the space, and there's no reason not to have
> one.  (paricularly since the opening is 24" wide, and the other
> drawers are all narrow.)  I'd like to buy a box, install it , and
> attach the existing front to it.  Anyone have suggestions on where to
> get such a thing?  None of the local big box places do.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  2 15:35:11 2012
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Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2012 14:56:06 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
Organization: Horne Systems
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120824
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <CA+k5sup9JUyfLFWVm_=YE-7HpHbVcBtazuZs+++Vx5D5FwVksQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

David,

If you have access to a miter saw, or are good with a circular saw, you 
can make your own drawer box from material that Rockler sells 
(http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=204&site=ROCKLER) All you need 
to do is make the sides, front and back of the drawer box using this 
product, then cut a bottom out of 1/4" plywood, glue and screw/nail it 
together and put guides on. Rockler also had the guides.

When you make the box, the front and back should be lapped by the sides 
for strength. Most side-mounted guides require 1/4" clearance to the 
opening on each side of the box (1/2" narrower than the opening).

If you need more information, please ask me.

Peace,
Pat.


Thusly spake David Scheidt, On 9/2/2012 1:18 PM:
> Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing.  There's a front for it,
> there's nothing blocking the space, and there's no reason not to have
> one.  (paricularly since the opening is 24" wide, and the other
> drawers are all narrow.)  I'd like to buy a box, install it , and
> attach the existing front to it.  Anyone have suggestions on where to
> get such a thing?  None of the local big box places do.
>

-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CA+k5sup9JUyfLFWVm_=YE-7HpHbVcBtazuZs+++Vx5D5FwVksQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<5043B9D6.3010206@hornesystemstx.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 18:58:21 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac2JU2taUyJ0TTDGQyGCsLDl4RpxMgAIutiA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> If you have access to a miter saw, or are good with a 
> circular saw, you 
> can make your own drawer box from material that Rockler sells 

Or make your own from clear hardwood, available at the big box place.  Last
time I borrowed time on a friend's table saw to cut the dado (multiple
passes with a standard blade since neither of us had a dado blade), but you
could make do with a circular saw and some guide boards clamped to the board
you are working on.  I've also done it with a router.

For a drawer that wide, you might also want a stiffening rib or two across
the bottom.\

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

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From: David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 21:30:55 -0500
To: "pat@hornesystemstx.com" <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
Cc: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] premade drawer box
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On Sep 2, 2012, at 2:56 PM, Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com> wrote:

> David,
>
> If you have access to a miter saw, or are good with a circular saw, you can
make your own drawer box from material that Rockler sells

I know how to make a drawer. Ive made a bunch. I have no interest in doing
that.

I know, from experience, that a local cabinet maker is going to br not
interested, quote a ridiculously high price, or farm it out.

Drawer boxes are something that is widely outsourced, as it is tooling
intensive, and no one cares about them. If youve got the cnc equipment, and
make them all day, you can sell them for what a job shop has in materials. I
was hoping someone had dealt with someone who was willing to deal with a
customer who only needs one.

> (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=204&site=ROCKLER) All you need to
do is make the sides, front and back of the drawer box using this product,
then cut a bottom out of 1/4" plywood, glue and screw/nail it together and put
guides on. Rockler also had the guides.
>
> When you make the box, the front and back should be lapped by the sides for
strength. Most side-mounted guides require 1/4" clearance to the opening on
each side of the box (1/2" narrower than the opening).
>
> If you need more information, please ask me.
>
> Peace,
> Pat.
>
>
> Thusly spake David Scheidt, On 9/2/2012 1:18 PM:
>> Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing.  There's a front for it,
>> there's nothing blocking the space, and there's no reason not to have
>> one.  (paricularly since the opening is 24" wide, and the other
>> drawers are all narrow.)  I'd like to buy a box, install it , and
>> attach the existing front to it.  Anyone have suggestions on where to
>> get such a thing?  None of the local big box places do.
>>
>
> --
> Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
> (512) 797-7501 Voice        5026 FM 2001
> Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com    Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
> www.hornesystemstx.com
> -- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  3 12:38:03 2012
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From: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OF551AF197.5C66ED54-ON85257A6D.0015D118-85257A6D.0017AC97@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 10:15:30 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac2IwNo6307RVfb6RSyCjnJg/aAaMgBNmT2A
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Charger sizing question
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

> So, what size charger do I need. 

Almost any 'smart' charger designed for a 6v SLA battery should be OK.
Here's one:
http://goo.gl/rqQIl

> There is a replacement one 
> listed on 
> Amazon,
> (its for a Vec139 
> and I'm not 
> sure if that will work with this one.)

Nope, the Vec139 uses a 12v system (two 6V batteries in series), so it's
charger wouldn't be appropriate.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep  3 15:02:05 2012
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Premade Drawer kits
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Our kitchen cabinets have a drawer missing.  There's a front for it,
there's nothing blocking the space, and there's no reason not to have
one.  (paricularly since the opening is 24" wide, and the other
drawers are all narrow.)  I'd like to buy a box, install it , and
attach the existing front to it.  Anyone have suggestions on where to
get such a thing?  None of the local big box places do.


Lots of them out there:

https://www.barkerdoor.com/Baltic-Plywood-Dovetail-Drawer-Boxes-p/drawerbox-
baltic-dovetail.htm

http://www.bhkofamerica.com/

http://www.firstchoiceproducts.net/drawer-kits.html
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Tue Sep  4 06:58:09 2012
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To: shop-talk-archive@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2012 05:07:19 -0600
Errors-To: mailman-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a reminder, sent out once a month, about your autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Wed Sep  5 21:57:17 2012
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From: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b@hotmail.com>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 21:08:43 -0500
	FILETIME=[8AFD5C00:01CD8BD4]
Subject: [Shop-talk] OT building question
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I know this isn't shop related, but Mark seems OK if we stray a little... My
wife and I own a two story, four unit apartment building.

It is currently stucco over lath.  Due to years of neglect the stucco and lath
are
pulling free of the framing and we have been told everything will need to
come
off.



We want to keep the "look" of the building.  I found two types of vertical
siding and what seems to be an updated version of stucco.Does anyone have any
experance any of these
products?http://www.jameshardiecommercial.com/index-all.shtmlhttp://www.certa
inteed.com/http://www.dryvit.com/systems.asp?country_id=1
Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Thu Sep  6 00:11:03 2012
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Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2012 21:56:37 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: Rich White <rlwhitetr3b@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] OT building question
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Rich,

I'm using the residential Hardie Soffit product right now under my 
balcony instead of stucco.  In my case, it is much lighter, cheaper, and 
a do it myself product.  I have the 12" x 12' Cedarmill and like it.

With the sheets of vertical siding on the Hardie Commercial site, you 
will have seams, so need to plan how you cover them.  If you have 
imperfections in the building, they will also stand out more with a 
uniform product like the siding.  A skilled stucco person can make a bad 
wall look good, so that may be a consideration.  You also need to line 
the edges of the vertical siding sheets on studs, which might be 
wasteful depending on your framing.  This wouldn't be an issue with 
horizontal siding.  Stucco doesn't care about uneven stud locations.

The commercial product you are looking at is 5/16" thick vs. the 1/4" 
residential soffit product I'm using, but I'd be concerned about 
durability/damage at a rental location that may be abused.  If a stucco 
wall takes a baseball hit or gets bumped by a car, I think there is less 
chance that anyone will know compared to the Hardie siding.  Hopefully 
someone else on the list can speak to the durability of the specific 
products you are looking at.  One option might be to use the siding on 
the upper level and stucco on the lower level.  That way, you could run 
the sheets vertical and not have any horizontal seams.  You might even 
be able to get higher rent if the place looks architecturally interesting.

The fiber cement product is brittle and needs to be carried on edge.  I 
snapped the first piece I tried to put up.  I then used a long strip of 
plywood to support the pieces as I lifted them into position.  This 
probably will not be a problem with siding, especially if two people are 
doing the install.

They say you need to buy a special blade if you use a circular saw, but 
I use an old fast framing blade.  It makes lots of dust.  I did wear a 
respirator and safety glasses and recommend anyone sawing fiber cement 
product do the same.  I used a diamond blade in my jig saw for neat 
rounded cuts around electrical boxes.

I ordered the primed, but not painted product.  It paints nice, but 
takes two coats of Behr Masonry/brick/stucco paint to cover it nicely.  
The first coat really soaked in, so I think the claims about the paint 
lasting are true.

Call around if you have an option with multiple dealers.  I had very 
different prices and delivery times.  It turns out, the cheapest could 
also have it is stock in two days vs. a week and 30 percent more for the 
first place I called.

Brian


On 9/5/2012 7:08 PM, Rich White wrote:
> I know this isn't shop related, but Mark seems OK if we stray a little... My
> wife and I own a two story, four unit apartment building.
>
> It is currently stucco over lath.  Due to years of neglect the stucco and lath
> are
> pulling free of the framing and we have been told everything will need to
> come
> off.
>
>
>
> We want to keep the "look" of the building.  I found two types of vertical
> siding and what seems to be an updated version of stucco.Does anyone have any
> experance any of these
> products?http://www.jameshardiecommercial.com/index-all.shtmlhttp://www.certa
> inteed.com/http://www.dryvit.com/systems.asp?country_id=1
> Rich White Central, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF###L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13@earthlink.net
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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 10 20:32:01 2012
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Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 22:30:45 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OFA63C556E.694DBF9D-ON85257A5A.0079536A-85257A5A.007A562A@mail.megageek.com>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Okay, it's in the shop, and you guys are probably better at this than 
anyone else...

My CTS daily driver has 'parking' lights in the headlight housing (I 
don't know what else to call them--little white lights in the corner of 
the housing...'marker' lights, maybe?).  The driver's light is out. It's 
not the bulb. The other lights in the housing work fine, as does the 
passenger side marker light.

I have no idea how to go about chasing this down. Short of disassembling 
the car and examining or replacing the wire...I got nothing.

Any help?

Thanks.

Scott
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 19:53:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Vantacich <rustymetal@sbcglobal.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] 455 Husqvarna rancher chain saw
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I was wondering if anyone on the list has purchased a Husqvarna 455 rancher
chain saw recently? I have owned mine for about 2 years and since day one it
has 
leaked chain oil .  I started stripping it down and think I have found
the 
source of the leak, a rubber plug with a rubber tube coming off of it,
but it 
looks in good condition.

I have heard of others having this same
problem but no fix for the problem.
 
Frank V.
rustymetal@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 23:19:24 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Sep 10, 2012 at 10:30 PM, Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wrote:
>  The driver's light is out. It's not the bulb. The other lights in the
> housing work fine, as does the passenger side marker light.
>
> Any help?

I don't know anything either, but I would guess that the cluster has a
plug attached to it.  I'd make sure there's power to the plug.  If so,
then you pull the cluster out and trace the wiring/circuit
board/whatever moves electrons around the board to see what's wrong.

How old is this vehicle?   You have tested the lamp, and/or replaced
it with a known good lamp?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 20:35:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Usually a bad bulb, grounding or wire issue. Normally the fuses cover both
sides, and not a single side. Occasionally you have to break out the owners
manual and head for the fuse description section. If you depend on the little
diagram on the fusebox, you may spend hours thinking you replaced the
'correct' fuse when in fact you did not. BTDT. Also using a known good bulb is
a good suggestion. Never assume.

Brian



>________________________________
>
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
>To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 10:30 PM
>Subject: [Shop-talk] Chasing down
an auto wiring issue
> 
>Okay, it's in the shop, and you guys are probably
better at this than anyone else...
>
>My CTS daily driver has 'parking' lights
in the headlight housing (I don't know what else to call them--little white
lights in the corner of the housing...'marker' lights, maybe?).  The driver's
light is out. It's not the bulb. The other lights in the housing work fine, as
does the passenger side marker light.
>
>I have no idea how to go about
chasing this down. Short of disassembling the car and examining or replacing
the wire...I got nothing.
>
>Any help?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Scott
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 11 05:15:25 2012
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 07:06:21 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/11/2012 07:06:25, Serialize complete at
	09/11/2012 07:06:25
Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Quick question, I have an antique split bamboo fishing rod that is 
*suppose* to separate in the middle.  The problem is that they are stuck 
solid.

I've tried WD40, and some other lubricants with no luck.  Heat really 
isn't an option. 

So, any ideas?  I need to be careful, because I don't want to destroy or 
damage the rod.  (I believe the metal tips are either copper)

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 07:27:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I would lean towards the bulb/fixture as well. My S10 also has these 
running lights. When one of mine went out the rest of the headlights 
worked fine. I replaced the fixture and all was fine.

tim

On Mon, Sep 10, 2012 at 9:30 PM, Scott wrote:

> Okay, it's in the shop, and you guys are probably better at this than 
> anyone else...
>
> My CTS daily driver has 'parking' lights in the headlight housing (I 
> don't know what else to call them--little white lights in the corner 
> of the housing...'marker' lights, maybe?).  The driver's light is out. 
> It's not the bulb. The other lights in the housing work fine, as does 
> the passenger side marker light.
>
> I have no idea how to go about chasing this down. Short of 
> disassembling the car and examining or replacing the wire...I got 
> nothing.
>
> Any help?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek@ameritech.net>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OF67DCE584.8ADFDA2C-ON85257A76.003D2A75-85257A76.003D74FC@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 08:18:08 -0500
Thread-Index: AQERc9jCLlevWQDMEyBLkod+UpZ0UZj9VQ5A
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Separating copper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Having been disappointed in every rust penetrant I've ever tried, and never
really believing that any of them actually loosened anything, I just heard
of something else from someone similarly frustrated.

Corrosion X is a product sold for internal corrosion protection of vehicles
and structures.  Really popular for spraying inside aluminum aircraft, into
all the hidden panels, etc. where there's no way to clean or inspect short
of rivet removal and rebuilding.  It's not AFAIK sold as a penetrant for
part removal.  However...

This guy had two really rusty Curtiss OX-5 (used in the WWI Jenny, Waco 10,
etc.) engines he'd just bought.  I mentioned that successful disassembly
looked really iffy, and he immediately smiled and said that where previously
he'd anticipate spending months struggling with disassembly, he didn't
expect to spend more than a few hours on each one after an hour or two with
Corrosion X.  The engines have lots of steel and aluminum parts, with some
brass and copper as well.

He's not a Corrosion-X dealer - he makes custom embroidered shirts, jackets,
caps, etc. to support his antique airplane habit.  In fact, he didn't even
specify which formulation to use - they have several.

Karl



-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric@megageek.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 06:06
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper

Quick question, I have an antique split bamboo fishing rod that is
*suppose* to separate in the middle.  The problem is that they are stuck
solid.

I've tried WD40, and some other lubricants with no luck.  Heat really isn't
an option. 

So, any ideas?  I need to be careful, because I don't want to destroy or
damage the rod.  (I believe the metal tips are either copper)

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo
Emerson _______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/kvacek@ameritech.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 11 08:21:48 2012
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From: "Gerald Brazil" <gerrybraz@cablespeed.com>
To: <eric@megageek.com>, <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OF67DCE584.8ADFDA2C-ON85257A76.003D2A75-85257A76.003D74FC@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 10:18:17 -0400
Thread-Index: AQERc9jCLlevWQDMEyBLkod+UpZ0UZj9aE1Q
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Separating copper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have two ideas.....one serious and one "myth busters".....

Try Kroil....the very best stuff I have found for dealing with anything
metal....

The second....Coca Cola.......people use it for everything else.....might
just work.  ;-)

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric@megageek.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 7:06 AM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper

Quick question, I have an antique split bamboo fishing rod that is
*suppose* to separate in the middle.  The problem is that they are stuck
solid.

I've tried WD40, and some other lubricants with no luck.  Heat really isn't
an option. 

So, any ideas?  I need to be careful, because I don't want to destroy or
damage the rod.  (I believe the metal tips are either copper)

Thanks.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo
Emerson _______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gerrybraz@cablespeed.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 11 10:55:54 2012
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From: "Mark Endicott" <mark@nashvilletn.org>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <OF67DCE584.8ADFDA2C-ON85257A76.003D2A75-85257A76.003D74FC@mail.megageek.com>
	<001e01cd9028$4d73aad0$e85b0070$@cablespeed.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 11:57:44 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Separating copper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

How about freezing the joint to shrink it then heating the outside piece 
quickly with a small jewelers torch to try to expand the outer collar while 
the inner is still cold?  Eric, you probably have some liquid nitrogen 
available don't you?  Maybe the expansion and contraction would break it 
loose.

Mark
Nashville
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 12:01:44 -0500
From: steve hochschild <shochschild@att.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120824
	Thunderbird/15.0
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OF67DCE584.8ADFDA2C-ON85257A76.003D2A75-85257A76.003D74FC@mail.megageek.com>
	<001e01cd9028$4d73aad0$e85b0070$@cablespeed.com>
	<53C2E2D5E2E64ED78BAE0AFD3EC65CCA@CGI.COMMTECH>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Separating copper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

In my experience, this doesn't really work for copper -- it transfers 
heat so quickly the delta between the inner and outer only lasts for a 
nanosecond, too fast for expansion to expand.

On 9/11/2012 11:57 AM, Mark Endicott wrote:
> How about freezing the joint to shrink it then heating the outside 
> piece quickly with a small jewelers torch to try to expand the outer 
> collar while the inner is still cold?  Eric, you probably have some 
> liquid nitrogen available don't you?  Maybe the expansion and 
> contraction would break it loose.
>
> Mark
> Nashville
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 11 11:58:18 2012
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 13:52:37 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/11/2012 13:52:41, Serialize complete at
	09/11/2012 13:52:41
Subject: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that 
happens on them?

I've tried to use toothpaste, but it didn't work that well.  Any other 
ideas?  I see lots of kits to do it, but I wonder which one is best, or if 
there is a better homemade solution (maybe I did the toothpaste wrong.)

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 11 12:12:45 2012
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Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:10:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <OFF34E94F0.3201077C-ON85257A76.00627D89-85257A76.0062A6A9@mail.megageek.com>
	required 3, autolearn=not spam, ALL_TRUSTED -1.00, BAYES_00 -1.90)
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy,

On Tue, 11 Sep 2012, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that 
> happens on them?
>
> I've tried to use toothpaste, but it didn't work that well.  Any other 
> ideas?  I see lots of kits to do it, but I wonder which one is best, or 
> if there is a better homemade solution (maybe I did the toothpaste 
> wrong.)

I've used a 3M (?? I think it was) kit from the autoparts store.  Seemed 
to work really well on my motorhome's fairly cloudy headlights and its 
lasted.  If I had to do it again, I'd do the same thing (i.e. go to parts 
store, look at kits, pick whichever one caught my eye the most).

Mark
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 11 12:13:32 2012
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Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:14:56 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: eric@megageek.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

As you said, there are various kits out there.  I don't have a 
recommendation for a particular one, but I hope they all work better 
than toothpaste.  One thing to consider, aftermarket headlights for 
most cars are a lot less expensive that you might think.  Amazon has 
a number of resellers offering these.  It really depends on which 
vehicle.  Some can be had for $25.  If you are lucky enough to have 
one of these vehicles, I'd spend the $50 bucks and get a couple of 
shiny new ones.  Of course, as the price goes up, the kit might be 
worth a try.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 01:52 PM 9/11/2012, eric@megageek.com wrote:
>Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that
>happens on them?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:16:44 -0400
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pj_thomas@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120824
	Thunderbird/15.0
To: eric@megageek.com
References: <OFF34E94F0.3201077C-ON85257A76.00627D89-85257A76.0062A6A9@mail.megageek.com>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 9/11/2012 1:52 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that
> happens on them?
>
> I've tried to use toothpaste, but it didn't work that well.  Any other
> ideas?  I see lots of kits to do it, but I wonder which one is best, or if
> there is a better homemade solution (maybe I did the toothpaste wrong.)

I've used polishing compound (like rubbing compound) it improves it but 
may not be as good as commercial products which coat the lens. I'd only 
us it on old lens.  I also used ceramic stove cleaner on windshields to 
clean them with great success.  This would probably work on headlamps also.

Peter T.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:21:20 -0400
References: <OFF34E94F0.3201077C-ON85257A76.00627D89-85257A76.0062A6A9@mail.megageek.com>,
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	FILETIME=[3E5BB6B0:01CD904A]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric the Car Guy (one of my new favorite YouTube channels) has a video on this
I watched awhile back.  Offers some tips, though I can't say he or I can
recommend the best kit out there.  Somewhat entertaining watching in any
case.
http://youtu.be/iRl8hGhKth8

-PJ

> Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:16:44 -0400
> From: pj_thomas@comcast.net
> To: eric@megageek.com
> CC: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing
>
> On 9/11/2012 1:52 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> > Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that
> > happens on them?
> >
> > I've tried to use toothpaste, but it didn't work that well.  Any other
> > ideas?  I see lots of kits to do it, but I wonder which one is best, or
if
> > there is a better homemade solution (maybe I did the toothpaste wrong.)
>
> I've used polishing compound (like rubbing compound) it improves it but
> may not be as good as commercial products which coat the lens. I'd only
> us it on old lens.  I also used ceramic stove cleaner on windshields to
> clean them with great success.  This would probably work on headlamps also.
>
> Peter T.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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	<504F800C.7080705@comcast.net>
	<SNT127-W3436FB4C72AD2ACBD8F9E09A930@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:45:39 -0500
From: Ronnie Day <ronnie.day@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used a
couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty kits is
the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks and a
comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a sealer.
There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's about 3
inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights.

I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might get
with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country and
there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago our '95
Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that over
several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become full of
this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive on
the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the headlights on
the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're held up
well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on them, as
were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU.

I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights leave
much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned here on
the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in business.
I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck forums
to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. The OE
unit sounds like it's from a pedal car!

Ron

On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>wrote:

> Eric the Car Guy (one of my new favorite YouTube channels) has a video on
> this
> I watched awhile back.  Offers some tips, though I can't say he or I can
> recommend the best kit out there.  Somewhat entertaining watching in any
> case.
> http://youtu.be/iRl8hGhKth8
>
> -PJ
>
> > Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:16:44 -0400
> > From: pj_thomas@comcast.net
> > To: eric@megageek.com
> > CC: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Headlight housing hazing
> >
> > On 9/11/2012 1:52 PM, eric@megageek.com wrote:
> > > Talking about the headlight housing, how do you fix the hazing that
> > > happens on them?
> > >
> > > I've tried to use toothpaste, but it didn't work that well.  Any other
> > > ideas?  I see lots of kits to do it, but I wonder which one is best, or
> if
> > > there is a better homemade solution (maybe I did the toothpaste wrong.)
> >
> > I've used polishing compound (like rubbing compound) it improves it but
> > may not be as good as commercial products which coat the lens. I'd only
> > us it on old lens.  I also used ceramic stove cleaner on windshields to
> > clean them with great success.  This would probably work on headlamps
> also.
> >
> > Peter T.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/ronnie.day@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 16:08:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought this one from summit:

 
https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433

DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said, a 
pedal car. I am very disappointed.

tim

On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote:

> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used a
> couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty 
> kits is
> the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks 
> and a
> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a 
> sealer.
> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's 
> about 3
> inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights.
>
> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might 
> get
> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country 
> and
> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago our 
> '95
> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that 
> over
> several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become 
> full of
> this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive 
> on
> the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the 
> headlights on
> the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're held 
> up
> well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on 
> them, as
> were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU.
>
> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights 
> leave
> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned 
> here on
> the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in 
> business.
> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck 
> forums
> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. 
> The OE
> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car!
>
> Ron
>
> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey 
> <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>wrote:
>
>> E
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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References: <278a3b1.34315b.139b6f2b847.Webtop.44@charter.net>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 13:18:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20.

Randy





________________________________
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing

I bought this one from summit:


https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433

DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said, a pedal 
car. I am very disappointed.

tim

On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote:

> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used a
> couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty kits is
> the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks and a
> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a sealer.
> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's about 3
> inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights.
> 
> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might get
> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country and
> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago our '95
> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that over
> several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become full of
> this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive on
> the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the headlights on
> the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're held up
> well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on them, as
> were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU.
> 
> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights leave
> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned here on
> the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in business.
> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck forums
> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. The OE
> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car!
> 
> Ron
> 
> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>wrote:
> 
>> E
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mistertwo@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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	<1347394704.6211.YahooMailRC@web184501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 14:51:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Just get a hornblaster and be done with it. Youtube hornblaster and while they
were being idiots, it shows the power of the horn. I too got a horn thinking
it would help. While loud, it was no comparison to the hornblaster. 

Brian
>________________________________
> From: Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
>To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Tuesday, September 11,
2012 4:18 PM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight
housing hazing
> 
>You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for
about $20.
>
>Randy
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Tim
<tputland@charter.net>
>To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>Sent:
Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket
horn...was Headlight housing hazing
>
>I bought this one from summit:
>
>
>https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562
433
>
>DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said,
a pedal 
>car. I am very disappointed.
>
>tim
>
>On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45
PM, Ronnie Day wrote:
>
>> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this
weekend. I've used a
>> couple of the commercial kits and I think the
Meguiar's Heavy Duty kits is
>> the best in my experience. It includes both
1000 and 3000 grit disks and a
>> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a
liquid polish and a sealer.
>> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use
with a drill that's about 3
>> inches across so it works well on all sizes and
shapes of headlights.
>> 
>> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity
longer than you might get
>> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in
through farm country and
>> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact
a year or so ago our '95
>> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent
reason, Turned out that over
>> several years the space between the AC
condenser and rad had become full of
>> this stuff floating around in the air.
I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive on
>> the headlights at 75 plus, too.
Interesting to note that the headlights on
>> the Odyssey are cast from harder
plastic than the Accord. They're held up
>> well but were also much improved
after using the Maguier's kit on them, as
>> were the headlights on our '93
GMC PU.
>> 
>> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the
headlights leave
>> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was
mentioned here on
>> the list that was offering high output headlights is no
longer in business.
>> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the
Chev/GMC truck forums
>> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the
horn on the Sub. The OE
>> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car!
>> 
>> Ron
>> 
>> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey
<pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>wrote:
>> 
>>> E
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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>_______________________________________________
>
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Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 18:04:33 -0500
From: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>, Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in
 Northern Wisconsin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

This is a longshot, but is there anyone in the Northern Wisconsin area that
can check out a vintage travel trailer my parents are interested in buying
to restore.    They just need someone to walk though to see if things are
as advertised before they commit to driving up from Mississippi and haven't
been able to find one of their trailer buddies in the area.

Email me off list if you can help.
Thanks
Patton

-- 
Patton Dickson  - Plano, TX
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 11 17:37:18 2012
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From: "Gerald Brazil" <gerrybraz@cablespeed.com>
To: "'Patton Dickson'" <57healey@gmail.com>, "'Healey List'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>, "'Shop-Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <CALiczDNfWypJ7dZvPh8+15z7vmvqaq77s1MY8X08SbUW40BbnQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 19:39:41 -0400
Thread-Index: AQEiGPJ4aH6aQ0/yBMrB6xQJghy7q5jcuy2A
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in
 Northern Wisconsin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If it has ever been used for Deer Camp I doubt if you will be able to get
the smell out. ;-)

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patton Dickson
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 7:05 PM
To: Healey List; Shop-Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in
Northern Wisconsin

This is a longshot, but is there anyone in the Northern Wisconsin area that
can check out a vintage travel trailer my parents are interested in buying
to restore.    They just need someone to walk though to see if things are
as advertised before they commit to driving up from Mississippi and haven't
been able to find one of their trailer buddies in the area.

Email me off list if you can help.
Thanks
Patton

--
Patton Dickson  - Plano, TX
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gerrybraz@cablespeed.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Sensitivity: Normal
To: "Gerald Brazil" <gerrybraz@cablespeed.com>,"Healey List"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>,"Shop-Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: "Patton Dickson" <57healey@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 23:42:37 +0000
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in
 Northern Wisconsin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

They know.  As I understand it, its pretty clean, just 50+ years old. 

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Gerald Brazil" <gerrybraz@cablespeed.com>
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 19:39:41 
To: 'Patton Dickson'<57healey@gmail.com>; 'Healey List'<healeys@autox.team.net>; 'Shop-Talk'<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in Northern Wisconsin

If it has ever been used for Deer Camp I doubt if you will be able to get
the smell out. ;-)

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patton Dickson
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 7:05 PM
To: Healey List; Shop-Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in
Northern Wisconsin

This is a longshot, but is there anyone in the Northern Wisconsin area that
can check out a vintage travel trailer my parents are interested in buying
to restore.    They just need someone to walk though to see if things are
as advertised before they commit to driving up from Mississippi and haven't
been able to find one of their trailer buddies in the area.

Email me off list if you can help.
Thanks
Patton

--
Patton Dickson  - Plano, TX
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/gerrybraz@cablespeed.com
_______________________________________________

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Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 19:17:30 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120824
	Thunderbird/15.0
To: KVacek@Ameritech.net
References: <OF67DCE584.8ADFDA2C-ON85257A76.003D2A75-85257A76.003D74FC@mail.megageek.com>
	<009f01cd901f$e31fcb30$a95f6190$@ameritech.net>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Separating copper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm sold on CorrosionX too.  It's pretty much the only spray stuff in a 
can I buy any more, although I was pretty happy with Kroil, too.



On 9/11/2012 6:18 AM, Karl Vacek wrote:
> Having been disappointed in every rust penetrant I've ever tried, and never
> really believing that any of them actually loosened anything, I just heard
> of something else from someone similarly frustrated.
>
> Corrosion X is a product sold for internal corrosion protection of vehicles
> and structures.  Really popular for spraying inside aluminum aircraft, into
> all the hidden panels, etc. where there's no way to clean or inspect short
> of rivet removal and rebuilding.  It's not AFAIK sold as a penetrant for
> part removal.  However...
>
> This guy had two really rusty Curtiss OX-5 (used in the WWI Jenny, Waco 10,
> etc.) engines he'd just bought.  I mentioned that successful disassembly
> looked really iffy, and he immediately smiled and said that where previously
> he'd anticipate spending months struggling with disassembly, he didn't
> expect to spend more than a few hours on each one after an hour or two with
> Corrosion X.  The engines have lots of steel and aluminum parts, with some
> brass and copper as well.
>
> He's not a Corrosion-X dealer - he makes custom embroidered shirts, jackets,
> caps, etc. to support his antique airplane habit.  In fact, he didn't even
> specify which formulation to use - they have several.
>
> Karl
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric@megageek.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 06:06
> To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: [Shop-talk] Separating copper
>
> Quick question, I have an antique split bamboo fishing rod that is
> *suppose* to separate in the middle.  The problem is that they are stuck
> solid.
>
> I've tried WD40, and some other lubricants with no luck.  Heat really isn't
> an option.
>
> So, any ideas?  I need to be careful, because I don't want to destroy or
> damage the rod.  (I believe the metal tips are either copper)
>
> Thanks.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph Waldo
> Emerson _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 23:15:02 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.0; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120907
	Thunderbird/15.0.1
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <2536e2e6.33bc17.139b515cdbe.Webtop.44@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

So just...snip the old one off and splice in a new one?

On 9/11/2012 7:27 AM, Tim wrote:
> I would lean towards the bulb/fixture as well. My S10 also has these 
> running lights. When one of mine went out the rest of the headlights 
> worked fine. I replaced the fixture and all was fine.
>
> tim
>
> On Mon, Sep 10, 2012 at 9:30 PM, Scott wrote:
>
>> Okay, it's in the shop, and you guys are probably better at this than 
>> anyone else...
>>
>> My CTS daily driver has 'parking' lights in the headlight housing (I 
>> don't know what else to call them--little white lights in the corner 
>> of the housing...'marker' lights, maybe?). The driver's light is out. 
>> It's not the bulb. The other lights in the housing work fine, as does 
>> the passenger side marker light.
>>
>> I have no idea how to go about chasing this down. Short of 
>> disassembling the car and examining or replacing the wire...I got 
>> nothing.
>>
>> Any help?
>>
>> Thanks.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 07:08:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>, Shop-Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Looking for someone to look at a vintage camper in
 Northern Wisconsin
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Where in Northern WI? I will be in the Green Bay area in early November 
and know a few people around the state.

tim


On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 6:04 PM, Patton Dickson wrote:

> This is a longshot, but is there anyone in the Northern Wisconsin area 
> that
> can check out a vintage travel trailer my parents are interested in 
> buying
> to restore.    They just need someone to walk though to see if things 
> are
> as advertised before they commit to driving up from Mississippi and 
> haven't
> been able to find one of their trailer buddies in the area.
>
> Email me off list if you can help.
> Thanks
> Patton
>
> -- 
> Patton Dickson  - Plano, TX
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland@charter.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 12 05:10:14 2012
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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 07:10:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Rand E <rande@pobox.com>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Why would I buy another, even if on sale, if I am unhappy with the first 
one? ;-0


On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Rand E wrote:

> You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20.
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
> To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing 
> hazing
>
> I bought this one from summit:
>
>
> 
> https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433
>
> DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said, 
> a pedal car. I am very disappointed.
>
> tim
>
> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote:
>
>> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used 
>> a
>> couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty 
>> kits is
>> the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks 
>> and a
>> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a 
>> sealer.
>> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's 
>> about 3
>> inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights.
>>
>> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might 
>> get
>> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country 
>> and
>> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago 
>> our '95
>> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that 
>> over
>> several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become 
>> full of
>> this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat 
>> abrasive on
>> the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the 
>> headlights on
>> the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're 
>> held up
>> well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on 
>> them, as
>> were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU.
>>
>> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights 
>> leave
>> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned 
>> here on
>> the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in 
>> business.
>> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck 
>> forums
>> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. 
>> The OE
>> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car!
>>
>> Ron
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey 
>> <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> E
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 07:12:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

When I say "fixture" I guess I should have said replaced the light 
itself.


On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 10:15 PM, Scott wrote:

> So just...snip the old one off and splice in a new one?
>
> On 9/11/2012 7:27 AM, Tim wrote:
>> I would lean towards the bulb/fixture as well. My S10 also has these 
>> running lights. When one of mine went out the rest of the headlights 
>> worked fine. I replaced the fixture and all was fine.
>>
>> tim
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 10, 2012 at 9:30 PM, Scott wrote:
>>
>>> Okay, it's in the shop, and you guys are probably better at this 
>>> than anyone else...
>>>
>>> My CTS daily driver has 'parking' lights in the headlight housing (I 
>>> don't know what else to call them--little white lights in the corner 
>>> of the housing...'marker' lights, maybe?). The driver's light is 
>>> out. It's not the bulb. The other lights in the housing work fine, 
>>> as does the passenger side marker light.
>>>
>>> I have no idea how to go about chasing this down. Short of 
>>> disassembling the car and examining or replacing the wire...I got 
>>> nothing.
>>>
>>> Any help?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 08:46:47 -0400
From: Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.0; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120907
	Thunderbird/15.0.1
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
References: <1cbee297.3e3e42.139ba2e299d.Webtop.48@charter.net>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Chasing down an auto wiring issue
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

The 'headlight housing' itself?

On 9/12/2012 7:12 AM, Tim wrote:
> When I say "fixture" I guess I should have said replaced the light 
> itself.
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 10:15 PM, Scott wrote:
>
>> So just...snip the old one off and splice in a new one?
>>
>> On 9/11/2012 7:27 AM, Tim wrote:
>>> I would lean towards the bulb/fixture as well. My S10 also has these 
>>> running lights. When one of mine went out the rest of the headlights 
>>> worked fine. I replaced the fixture and all was fine.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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References: <597265d6.3e3e16.139ba2c7aa7.Webtop.48@charter.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 05:56:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd be pissed too if I paid almost $50 for a $20 item.




________________________________
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Rand E <rande@pobox.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, September 12, 2012 6:10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing

Why would I buy another, even if on sale, if I am unhappy with the first one? 
;-0


On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Rand E wrote:

> You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20.
> 
> Randy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
> To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing
> 
> I bought this one from summit:
> 
> 
> 
> 
https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433
> 
> DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said, a pedal 
>car. I am very disappointed.
> 
> tim
> 
> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote:
> 
>> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used a
>> couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty kits is
>> the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks and a
>> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a sealer.
>> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's about 3
>> inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights.
>> 
>> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might get
>> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country and
>> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago our '95
>> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that over
>> several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become full of
>> this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive on
>> the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the headlights on
>> the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're held up
>> well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on them, as
>> were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU.
>> 
>> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights leave
>> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned here on
>> the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in business.
>> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck forums
>> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. The OE
>> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car!
>> 
>> Ron
>> 
>> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>wrote:
>> 
>>> E
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 09:24:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Rand E <rande@pobox.com>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I didn't pay $50 for it. I paid around $25 after shipping with my 
discount. And I am pissed at the tone of the horn.

Are we done?


On Wed, Sep 12, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Rand E wrote:

> I'd be pissed too if I paid almost $50 for a $20 item.
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
> To: Rand E <rande@pobox.com>
> Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, September 12, 2012 6:10:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing 
> hazing
>
> Why would I buy another, even if on sale, if I am unhappy with the 
> first one? ;-0
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Rand E wrote:
>
>> You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20.
>>
>> Randy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
>> To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing 
>> hazing
>>
>> I bought this one from summit:
>>
>>
>>
>>
> 
> https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433
>>
>> DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you 
>> said, a pedal car. I am very disappointed.
>>
>> tim
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote:
>>
>>> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used 
>>> a
>>> couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty 
>>> kits is
>>> the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks 
>>> and a
>>> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a 
>>> sealer.
>>> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's 
>>> about 3
>>> inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of 
>>> headlights.
>>>
>>> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might 
>>> get
>>> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country 
>>> and
>>> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago 
>>> our '95
>>> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that 
>>> over
>>> several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become 
>>> full of
>>> this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat 
>>> abrasive on
>>> the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the 
>>> headlights on
>>> the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're 
>>> held up
>>> well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on 
>>> them, as
>>> were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU.
>>>
>>> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights 
>>> leave
>>> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned 
>>> here on
>>> the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in 
>>> business.
>>> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck 
>>> forums
>>> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. 
>>> The OE
>>> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car!
>>>
>>> Ron
>>>
>>> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey 
>>> <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>wrote:
>>>
>>>> E
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland@charter.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2012 12:22:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rand E <mistertwo@sbcglobal.net>
To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I was done a long time ago.  Unless you want to continue something???





________________________________
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Rand E <rande@pobox.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, September 12, 2012 8:24:35 AM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing

I didn't pay $50 for it. I paid around $25 after shipping with my discount. And 
I am pissed at the tone of the horn.

Are we done?


On Wed, Sep 12, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Rand E wrote:

> I'd be pissed too if I paid almost $50 for a $20 item.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
> To: Rand E <rande@pobox.com>
> Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, September 12, 2012 6:10:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing
> 
> Why would I buy another, even if on sale, if I am unhappy with the first one? 
>;-0
> 
> 
> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 3:18 PM, Rand E wrote:
> 
>> You can get the same horn at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20.
>> 
>> Randy
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ________________________________
>> From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
>> To: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tue, September 11, 2012 3:08:43 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] aftermarket horn...was Headlight housing hazing
>> 
>> I bought this one from summit:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
https://www.summitracing.com/myaccount/OrderDetails.aspx?CN=11901580&ON=4562433
>> 
>> DON'T BOTHER. It looks like a meaty horn but sounds like, as you said, a pedal 
>>car. I am very disappointed.
>> 
>> tim
>> 
>> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 2:45 PM, Ronnie Day wrote:
>> 
>>> I worked on the headlights on our '05 Accord this weekend. I've used a
>>> couple of the commercial kits and I think the Meguiar's Heavy Duty kits is
>>> the best in my experience. It includes both 1000 and 3000 grit disks and a
>>> comfortable to use disk holder, along with a liquid polish and a sealer.
>>> There's also a soft cotton buffing disk for use with a drill that's about 3
>>> inches across so it works well on all sizes and shapes of headlights.
>>> 
>>> I expect the sealer helps maintain the clarity longer than you might get
>>> with just sanding and polishing. Our commute in through farm country and
>>> there's often a lot of "junk" in the air. In fact a year or so ago our '95
>>> Odyssey started overheating for no apparent reason, Turned out that over
>>> several years the space between the AC condenser and rad had become full of
>>> this stuff floating around in the air. I'm sure it's somewhat abrasive on
>>> the headlights at 75 plus, too. Interesting to note that the headlights on
>>> the Odyssey are cast from harder plastic than the Accord. They're held up
>>> well but were also much improved after using the Maguier's kit on them, as
>>> were the headlights on our '93 GMC PU.
>>> 
>>> I've noticed when driving our "new" '02 Suburban that the headlights leave
>>> much to be desired, but it looks like the outfit that was mentioned here on
>>> the list that was offering high output headlights is no longer in business.
>>> I'll dig around on Jeg's, LMC Truck and some of the Chev/GMC truck forums
>>> to see what I can find. I also want to improve the horn on the Sub. The OE
>>> unit sounds like it's from a pedal car!
>>> 
>>> Ron
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 1:21 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>wrote:
>>> 
>>>> E
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland@charter.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mistertwo@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 13 01:41:20 2012
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:11.0) Gecko/20120315
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] What fun!
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So it is raining in my office.  Well, maybe just a few small streams, 
but the dishwasher
up above me in the kitchen seems to be leaking, and leaking badly.  
Gosh, didn't we
recently have a discussion about dishwasher drain lines?

Wonder what I'll work on tomorrow.


mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 13 05:48:51 2012
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Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 07:51:19 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What fun!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A few years ago we started our GE dishwasher before going to bed, and it
decided to try filling all night.
This turned our finished basement into an indoor swimming pool.

We replaced the dishwasher with a Miele. Their models (and ones by Bosch
and other European makers)
have a drip tray with a water sensor, so they will shut off the water if
there is any overflow.  Also, the solenoid
valve that controls the water is on the end of the input hose, and attaches
directly to the plumbing.  This
means that none of the machine's internal plumbing is pressurized when the
machine is not actually filling.

It cost more than an average dishwasher, but the additional cost was much
less than we had to spend
fixing the basement...

Doug

On Thu, Sep 13, 2012 at 3:41 AM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> So it is raining in my office.  Well, maybe just a few small streams, but
> the dishwasher
> up above me in the kitchen seems to be leaking, and leaking badly.  Gosh,
> didn't we
> recently have a discussion about dishwasher drain lines?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 05:21:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: john niolon <jniolon@att.net>
To: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] mojack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

bought a new ZTR mower last season and love it... but it's getting to the time 
when service will be needed...  blade sharpening and such...  been looking at 
the Mo-Jack mower lift systems and they look pretty neat... although somewhat 
expensive... anyone have any experience pro/con with them??... anyone ever build 
a contraption like this ??   sold my a-frame this year (dummy) and really don't 
have a safe way to lift this ZTR and get under it without my wife cashing in my 
life insurance...
 

thanks
John





A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a 
hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a 
wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act 
alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, 

cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for 
insects!...Lazarus Long
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 13 12:47:36 2012
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Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 14:46:21 -0400
From: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
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To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>, Shop Talk List
	<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <50518E34.40806@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What fun!
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On 9/13/2012 3:41 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> So it is raining in my office. Well, maybe just a few small streams, but
> the dishwasher
> up above me in the kitchen seems to be leaking, and leaking badly. Gosh,
> didn't we
> recently have a discussion about dishwasher drain lines?

C'mon Mark, you're the list admin. You of all people should know to make 
an obligatory comment about running car parts through the dishwasher to 
feign being "on topic"  :)

I went through three different rental places in 13 years as a kid, and 
every one had the same crappy sub $200 G.E. dishwasher. Then nearly 11 
years ago, at 35 bought my first home. The dishwasher has a "Kenmore" 
badge on it, BUT IT'S THE SAME !@#$ G.E. POS! Arrrggghhh!

I took it apart once to clean out mold and debris that was clogging the 
pump and drain (unrelated to the car parts I'd run through it.) And 
neglected to replace a gasket I'd taken out in the process, causing it 
to leak through the floor and onto my bench and tool box in the garage 
below :( I think they should all have some kinda tray or liner under 
them, so any leaks come out into the room and are immediately visible. 
I'll probably use the vinyl stuff they put in shower stall floors if I 
ever replace it. Would love to replace it, but now I'm single & poor and 
hardly use the thing anyway.

Bosch is supposed to make really nice washers, and most come out of a 
domestic factory here in North Carolina. I have access to Consumer 
Reports online site, if you'd like me to pull their ratings & reports 
for ya'. (I value their opinion, but do not consider them an ultimate 
authority, particularly on some specialty products where I strongly 
disagree with their conclusions.)

-Wayne
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 13 13:38:50 2012
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Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 19:41:21 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Wayne <wmc_st@xxiii.com>
Cc: Shop Talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] What fun!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Happened on this in one of my av mags: 

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/drippan24.php 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----

On 9/13/2012 3:41 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: 
> So it is raining in my office. Well, maybe just a few small streams, but 
> the dishwasher 
> up above me in the kitchen seems to be leaking, and leaking badly. Gosh, 
> didn't we 
> recently have a discussion about dishwasher drain lines? 

C'mon Mark, you're the list admin. You of all people should know to make 
an obligatory comment about running car parts through the dishwasher to 
feign being "on topic" :) 

I went through three different rental places in 13 years as a kid, and 
every one had the same crappy sub $200 G.E. dishwasher. Then nearly 11 
years ago, at 35 bought my first home. The dishwasher has a "Kenmore" 
badge on it, BUT IT'S THE SAME !@#$ G.E. POS! Arrrggghhh! 

I took it apart once to clean out mold and debris that was clogging the 
pump and drain (unrelated to the car parts I'd run through it.) And 
neglected to replace a gasket I'd taken out in the process, causing it 
to leak through the floor and onto my bench and tool box in the garage 
below :( I think they should all have some kinda tray or liner under 
them, so any leaks come out into the room and are immediately visible. 
I'll probably use the vinyl stuff they put in shower stall floors if I 
ever replace it. Would love to replace it, but now I'm single & poor and 
hardly use the thing anyway. 

Bosch is supposed to make really nice washers, and most come out of a 
domestic factory here in North Carolina. I have access to Consumer 
Reports online site, if you'd like me to pull their ratings & reports 
for ya'. (I value their opinion, but do not consider them an ultimate 
authority, particularly on some specialty products where I strongly 
disagree with their conclusions.) 

-Wayne 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 14 05:42:28 2012
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Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 07:42:09 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Hazard Fraught Tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Might be off-topic, or might just be good for a laugh.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146306

I know I've bought some of those...
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 07:53:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Hazard Fraught Tools
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Brilliant! I need that nail unbender!


On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 6:42 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:

> Might be off-topic, or might just be good for a laugh.
>
> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146306
>
> I know I've bought some of those...
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Fri Sep 14 20:52:36 2012
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Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 19:55:22 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
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To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
References: <3652c8dd.3fa1f1.139c4a02b1e.Webtop.45@charter.net>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Hazard Fraught Tools
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I think I saw the dreidel in a recent Lee Valley catalog.   Or maybe 
Garrett Wade.


On 9/14/2012 4:53 AM, Tim wrote:
> Brilliant! I need that nail unbender!
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 6:42 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
>
>> Might be off-topic, or might just be good for a laugh.
>>
>> http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146306
>>
>> I know I've bought some of those...
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/cavanadd@frontier.com
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek@ameritech.net>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <3652c8dd.3fa1f1.139c4a02b1e.Webtop.45@charter.net>
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Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 09:03:25 -0500
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Excellent - best laugh of the month at least.  Gotta read all the fine print
too - it's hysterical.

Having spent my high school and college years poring over the Warshawsky
catalog (J.C. Whitney if you're not from Chicago), this brilliant piece
makes me realize that Harbor Freight catalogs have taken their place in the
galaxy of time wasters.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 12:27:04 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0
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This dishwasher would be easy to fix IF I could roll it out a few inches.
I've disconnected everything I can see, but it still seems to be hung up on
something near the top of the back.  Grrr..

Must be time to hit the recliner and watch some football, relax before I
break something.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

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References: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 14:33:57 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

You may need to lower the feet at the front, and unscrew the bracket
if there is one (top center front).  Also, the drain hose should be
looped high at the side before it goes down to the drain/disposer.
You might check that...

On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 2:27 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:
> This dishwasher would be easy to fix IF I could roll it out a few inches.
> I've disconnected everything I can see, but it still seems to be hung up on
> something near the top of the back.  Grrr..
>
> Must be time to hit the recliner and watch some football, relax before I
> break something.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From: Jim Franklin <jamesf@groupwbench.org>
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 14:34:35 -0400
References: <505619F8.6070601@bradakis.com>
To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0
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Supply, drain, electric.

Usually 2 screws at the top front to keep it from faceplanting when you open
the door.

Are you sure it's at the top back? If so, could it be a lip of some sort
getting hung up behind the countertop that might not be flush to the wall? Did
you try wheelie-ing it to drop the top of the back?

Did they put the drain loop behind the DW instead on under the sink? Hard to
do with the DW already in place but maybe the adjacent cabinet went in
afterwards.

Countertop sage from steam? Can you use a plunger to raise it while a lovely
assistant pulls on the DW?

jim

On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:27 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> This dishwasher would be easy to fix IF I could roll it out a few inches.
> I've disconnected everything I can see, but it still seems to be hung up on
> something near the top of the back.  Grrr..
>
> Must be time to hit the recliner and watch some football, relax before I
> break something.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jamesf@groupwbench.org
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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sun Sep 16 13:31:16 2012
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0
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Well the pleasant stroll down to the convenience store to pick up a sunday
paper did the trick.   Got home, went back to the dishwasher and immediately
spotted another anti faceplant bracket I hadn't seen before.

I feel much better now.

mjb.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 17 11:15:25 2012
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 13:05:51 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/17/2012 13:05:55, Serialize complete at
	09/17/2012 13:05:55
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long
 Valley, NJ)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I know most of you are  MG guys.  This was just posted to my local 
Freecycle.  (Means they are offering these for free.)

Contact them if you are interested.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

----- Forwarded by Eric Petrevich/Megageek on 09/17/2012 01:09 PM -----

"JoeKeyes" <23989405@posts.freecycle.org> 
Sent by: My Freecycle <rw_bouncer@freecycle.org>
09/17/2012 01:03 PM

To
"inchman" <freecycle@megageek.com>
cc

Subject
[HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long Valley, NJ)







OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts
MGB & A parts, all in serviceable or rebuild-able condition.

MGB 5-main engine & parts: Stripped short block (no cylinder head) in
good condition, surface rust Two 5-main cranks, 1 in usable condition,
the other has slight scoring on #3 connecting rod journal Four pistons
connecting rods Camshaft, CB>-grind, timing chain sprocket and new bearing
set Flywheel & rear plate Exhaust manifold Two carbs & manifold Water
pump Oil Pump Timing cover Distributor (set up for Webber carbs)
Miscellaneous engine parts

MGA parts Valve cover, original MGA, needs re-painting 4 2-earred knock-
offs (fine thread) 4 wire-wheels + tires (used, but still in good
condition) C"b,b wheels need rebuilding/retuning Steering wheel &
centerpiece

C"b,B&and other miscellaneous MG parts


View all items
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: <shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <OFE1E0474E.BA5E97A3-ON85257A7C.005E4567-85257A7C.005E5FB2@mail.megageek.com>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 17:01:32 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac2U+ID10MW8eEz7Tsmw0KmBSf2OkAAN3QtA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts
 (Long Valley, NJ)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Eric,

Some of us, including the big guy behind the curtain, take offense to being
called MG guys.

Jack
1960 Triumph TR3
1980 Triumph TR8

ps - Hey, it's like the Ford-Chevy thing. . . . . . <GRIN!>

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of eric@megageek.com
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 10:06 AM
To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long
Valley, NJ)

I know most of you are  MG guys.  This was just posted to my local
Freecycle.  (Means they are offering these for free.)

Contact them if you are interested.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
Waldo Emerson

----- Forwarded by Eric Petrevich/Megageek on 09/17/2012 01:09 PM -----

"JoeKeyes" <23989405@posts.freecycle.org>
Sent by: My Freecycle <rw_bouncer@freecycle.org>
09/17/2012 01:03 PM

To
"inchman" <freecycle@megageek.com>
cc

Subject
[HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts (Long Valley, NJ)







OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts
MGB & A parts, all in serviceable or rebuild-able condition.

MGB 5-main engine & parts: Stripped short block (no cylinder head) in
good condition, surface rust Two 5-main cranks, 1 in usable condition,
the other has slight scoring on #3 connecting rod journal Four pistons
connecting rods Camshaft, CB>-grind, timing chain sprocket and new bearing
set Flywheel & rear plate Exhaust manifold Two carbs & manifold Water
pump Oil Pump Timing cover Distributor (set up for Webber carbs)
Miscellaneous engine parts

MGA parts Valve cover, original MGA, needs re-painting 4 2-earred knock-
offs (fine thread) 4 wire-wheels + tires (used, but still in good
condition) C"b,b wheels need rebuilding/retuning Steering wheel &
centerpiece

C"b,B&and other miscellaneous MG parts


View all items
Make a post
Contact your Group Moderators
Switch to digest email
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Leave the local Group

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_______________________________________________

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 17 18:09:01 2012
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
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	<B47EC8FEDFE34CB58D50F18CE33B7D3C@EntCentPC>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts
 (Long Valley, NJ)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Jack Brooks wrote:
> Eric,
>
> Some of us, including the big guy behind the curtain, take offense to being
> called MG guys.
>
>

I've mentioned before that I wonder if my life would have been different
had my middle name been George.

mJb.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts
 (Long Valley, NJ)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Instead of Jaguar?



On 9/17/2012 5:12 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> Jack Brooks wrote:
>> Eric,
>>
>> Some of us, including the big guy behind the curtain, take offense to being
>> called MG guys.
>>
>>
>
> I've mentioned before that I wonder if my life would have been different
> had my middle name been George.
>
> mJb.
> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 17:35:53 -0700
From: Berry Kercheval <berry@kerch.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

An old friend used to say that when you got stuck, you should stop, consume
some "prayer fluid" and wait for inspiration from the Gods of Home (or
Auto) Repair.

"Prayer Fluid" is made primarily from malted barley, hops, yeast and water.

Amazing how often it worked.

On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 12:36 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> Well the pleasant stroll down to the convenience store to pick up a sunday
> paper did the trick.   Got home, went back to the dishwasher and
> immediately
> spotted another anti faceplant bracket I hadn't seen before.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 17 18:59:56 2012
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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	<CAEbvuy=XC6TmA-U5vUGfcuR=w1yuA7vXAkBNX_4n5+7gSomV-A@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Berry Kercheval wrote:
> An old friend used to say that when you got stuck, you should stop, 
> consume some "prayer fluid" and wait for inspiration from the Gods of 
> Home (or Auto) Repair.
>
> "Prayer Fluid" is made primarily from malted barley, hops, yeast and 
> water.
>
> Amazing how often it worked.

Yes indeed.  And working on this dishwasher is a lot like working on my 
Triumphs.

A breaks.

I fix A, it disturbs B.

I fix B, it disturbs C.

I fix C ...



mjb.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 17 19:20:32 2012
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Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
From: Bill Rabel <brabel@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 18:22:37 -0700
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

That's not prayer fluid. I call that a "brown wrench", a critical tool for
many tasks.

On Sep 17, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> Berry Kercheval wrote:
>> An old friend used to say that when you got stuck, you should stop, consume
some "prayer fluid" and wait for inspiration from the Gods of Home (or Auto)
Repair.
>>
>> "Prayer Fluid" is made primarily from malted barley, hops, yeast and
water.
>>
>> Amazing how often it worked.
>
> Yes indeed.  And working on this dishwasher is a lot like working on my
Triumphs.
>
> A breaks.
>
> I fix A, it disturbs B.
>
> I fix B, it disturbs C.
>
> I fix C ...
>
>
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 17 19:41:33 2012
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User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:11.0) Gecko/20120315
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
References: <OFE1E0474E.BA5E97A3-ON85257A7C.005E4567-85257A7C.005E5FB2@mail.megageek.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw: [HackettstownNJ] OFFER: MGB & MGA auto parts
 (Long Valley, NJ)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Bob Spidell wrote:
> Instead of Jaguar?
>

Not Jaguar, Jowett - as in Jupiter.  There's an obscure one!

mjb.
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 18:57:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Some of us call it a BFH? (Big bleep Hammer.)     Must be the geographical
location.  :)

Brian

>________________________________
> From: Bill Rabel
<brabel@comcast.net>
>To: 
>Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 9:22 PM
>Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher
1, mjb 0
> 
>That's not prayer fluid. I call that a "brown wrench", a critical
tool for
>many tasks.
>
(snip)
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To: "'shop-talk List'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 20:11:53 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac2VOY3mi+JtH+BlRfKaXba6QV1vogAEWeIw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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>A breaks.
>
>I fix A, it disturbs B.
>
>I fix B, it disturbs C.
>
>I fix C ...

Now that's plumbing!



-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 6:05 PM
To: shop-talk List
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0

Berry Kercheval wrote:
> An old friend used to say that when you got stuck, you should stop, 
> consume some "prayer fluid" and wait for inspiration from the Gods of 
> Home (or Auto) Repair.
>
> "Prayer Fluid" is made primarily from malted barley, hops, yeast and 
> water.
>
> Amazing how often it worked.

Yes indeed.  And working on this dishwasher is a lot like working on my 
Triumphs.

A breaks.

I fix A, it disturbs B.

I fix B, it disturbs C.

I fix C ...



mjb.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
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From: Bill Rabel <brabel@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 20:11:37 -0700
To: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
Cc: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

No, not a hammer. A brown wrench is a brown glass bottle, containing what some
call prayer fluid. Geez, ya gotta spell it out.

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2012, at 6:57 PM, Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Some of us call it a BFH? (Big bleep Hammer.)     Must be the geographical
> location.  :)
>
> Brian
>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Bill Rabel
> <brabel@comcast.net>
>> To:
>> Cc: shop-talk List <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 9:22 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher
> 1, mjb 0
>>
>> That's not prayer fluid. I call that a "brown wrench", a critical
> tool for
>> many tasks.
>>
> (snip)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/brabel@comcast.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 07:17:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Dishwasher 1, mjb 0
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Prayer Fluid.....possibly a better penetrant AND lubricant than Kroil, 
PB Blaster and WD40 combined?


On Mon, Sep 17, 2012 at 7:35 PM, Berry Kercheval wrote:

> An old friend used to say that when you got stuck, you should stop, 
> consume
> some "prayer fluid" and wait for inspiration from the Gods of Home (or
> Auto) Repair.
>
> "Prayer Fluid" is made primarily from malted barley, hops, yeast and 
> water.
>
> Amazing how often it worked.
>
> On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 12:36 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> 
> wrote:
>
>> Well the pleasant stroll down to the convenience store to pick up a 
>> sunday
>> paper did the trick.   Got home, went back to the dishwasher and
>> immediately
>> spotted another anti faceplant bracket I hadn't seen before.
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 11:41:06 -0700
From: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120827
	Thunderbird/15.0
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <1347538886.13910.YahooMailRC@web181502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] mojack
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On 09/13/2012 05:21 AM, john niolon wrote:
> bought a new ZTR mower last season and love it... but it's getting to the time
> when service will be needed...  blade sharpening and such...  been looking at
> the Mo-Jack mower lift systems and they look pretty neat... although somewhat
> expensive... anyone have any experience pro/con with them??... anyone ever build
> a contraption like this ??   sold my a-frame this year (dummy) and really don't
> have a safe way to lift this ZTR and get under it without my wife cashing in my
> life insurance...
>   

On my lawn tractor I raise the deck as high as it'll go and reach under 
with a wrench to undo the bolt that holds each blade on its hub.  It's 
not hard to do.   The blade's got to come off to be sharpened anyhow.  I 
use the bench grinder and files to get the parts that I can't sharpen 
with the grinder.  Then a quick balance check (stick a screwdriver in 
the center hole and grind metal off the low side).

If raising the deck doesn't give you enough space you could make some 
low ramps out of 2x6s.  I think I used a couple 2x6 scraps the first 
time so I could see how the blades were attached.  Now I can do it 
without looking.

Eric
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 24 14:04:02 2012
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 16:06:55 -0400
	FILETIME=[25951DB0:01CD9A90]
Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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My Harbor Freight MIG welder and welding helmet have been on the shelf for a
few years gathering dust.  I might have an excuse to use both of them soon.  I
took a peak at the helmet thinking maybe the batteries might need replacing,
but it doesn't appear to use any.. So it looks like it uses a panel of some
kind to detect the light from the arc and flips on and darkens the shield.  I
took a look at it and all seems to be in order.  I remember using it with good
success before.

So I just want to be safe here, is there anything I can/should do to test this
out so I know it will work when I spark up the welder?  It didn't seem to
respond much to normal flashlight light...  My retinas thank you. -PJ
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 16:31:30 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 4:06 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com> wrote:
> So I just want to be safe here, is there anything I can/should do to test this
> out so I know it will work when I spark up the welder?

Mine will darken when pointed at the sun...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek@ameritech.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 15:52:24 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Typically these shields default to dark if there's no power, though I don't
know about the Hazard Fraught models.

One other consideration is that even though they may not darken for some
reason, there's supposed to be adequate UV protection even in the "light"
condition.  It may not be comfortable to view welding through a light lens,
but it's not supposed to be harmful, so testing shouldn't be particularly
hazardous.

And, like Jeff, mine (an old Sellstrom that uses AAA battteries) darkens in
sunlight when it's on and has good batteries.

Karl


-----Original Message-----
From: PJ McGarvey
Subject: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet

My Harbor Freight MIG welder and welding helmet have been on the shelf for a
few years gathering dust.  I might have an excuse to use both of them soon.
I took a peak at the helmet thinking maybe the batteries might need
replacing, but it doesn't appear to use any.. So it looks like it uses a
panel of some kind to detect the light from the arc and flips on and darkens
the shield.  I took a look at it and all seems to be in order.  I remember
using it with good success before.

So I just want to be safe here, is there anything I can/should do to test
this out so I know it will work when I spark up the welder?  It didn't seem
to respond much to normal flashlight light...  My retinas thank you. -PJ 
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 24 15:06:21 2012
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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 17:03:26 -0400
From: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <SNT127-W54C63F08AB6EC746D44BB49A9E0@phx.gbl>
	<001501cd9a96$80521f90$80f65eb0$@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Mine, also a battery powered model, darkens in sunlight and even when 
just looking directly at a light bulb.  Another interesting thing, I 
can darken mine with a TV remote control.

-Steve Trovato
strovato@optonline.net

At 04:52 PM 9/24/2012, Karl Vacek wrote:

>And, like Jeff, mine (an old Sellstrom that uses AAA battteries) darkens in
>sunlight when it's on and has good batteries.
>
>Karl
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 17:09:28 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: KVacek@ameritech.net
Cc: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Look at the sun through the helmet, and rapidly wave your hand in front of
the sensor.
That should definitely make it darken.

Doug
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 24 16:16:12 2012
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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 17:18:41 -0500
From: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>
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To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
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I have a 10 year old Hobart helmet that does not have batteries either. 
After sitting for a long time. when I started welding, the window didn't 
darken. I left it sitting facing the sun for a couple hours, after which 
it worked fine. You might want to give that a try.

Peace,
Pat
Thusly spake PJ McGarvey
> My Harbor Freight MIG welder and welding helmet have been on the shelf for a
> few years gathering dust.  I might have an excuse to use both of them soon.  I
> took a peak at the helmet thinking maybe the batteries might need replacing,
> but it doesn't appear to use any.. So it looks like it uses a panel of some
> kind to detect the light from the arc and flips on and darkens the shield.  I
> took a look at it and all seems to be in order.  I remember using it with good
> success before.
>
> So I just want to be safe here, is there anything I can/should do to test this
> out so I know it will work when I spark up the welder?  It didn't seem to
> respond much to normal flashlight light...  My retinas thank you. -PJ
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>
>

Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems (512) 797-7501 Voice & Text 5026 FM 2001 
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com Lockhart, TX 78644-4443 www.hornesystemstx.com -- 
We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 24 16:40:17 2012
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	<CAO8Q7CPtYvHpBkMKkeEK5RBgB=gaqC5H67g2aHHMXGuBwcdvig@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 18:43:03 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 4:31 PM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 4:06 PM, PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> So I just want to be safe here, is there anything I can/should do to test this
>> out so I know it will work when I spark up the welder?
>
> Mine will darken when pointed at the sun...

Having said that, there may be some tiny batteries somewhere...  Page
7 of this document
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/46000-46999/46092.pdf states
that my helmet has 3V lithium cells for backup, that typically last 6
years and don't need to be changed.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 24 17:49:26 2012
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 16:51:59 -0700
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
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Does this mean when the batteries do wear out after six years you just throw 
everything away?  What a crazy marketing environment we live in!

Mike


> Having said that, there may be some tiny batteries somewhere...  Page
> 7 of this document
> http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/46000-46999/46092.pdf states
> that my helmet has 3V lithium cells for backup, that typically last 6
> years and don't need to be changed. 
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 24 18:18:38 2012
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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 20:21:22 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 7:51 PM, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:
> Does this mean when the batteries do wear out after six years you just throw
> everything away?  What a crazy marketing environment we live in!

I'm pretty sure you can replace the batteries.  Maybe they expect
you'll wear out the helmet before then...
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 24 18:31:55 2012
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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 17:33:51 -0700
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
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To: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Non-Ferrous miter saw blade?
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I'm doing a railing project and was looking for a Non-Ferrous blade for 
my 10" miter saw, but Lowes and Home Depot don't appear to have them in 
the stores.  I want it for the weekend, so don't want to have to order 
online.  I only have six cuts to make in a powder coated extruded 
aluminum top rail if all is good, so also don't want to spend a bunch.

What is special about about a blade to make it good for non-ferrous 
metals like aluminum?  Since I only have a few cuts, can I get a clean 
edge from a cheap regular 10" blade?  Are more teeth better? Four of the 
cuts will be mitered corners, so I want them to be clean.  This will not 
be long term production, so durability is not a concern.

I was considering going to look at Harbor Freight.  They have the two 
blades below that may be at my local store.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-40-tooth-carbide-tipped-circular-saw-blade-with-titanium-nitride-coating-93893.html

or

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-40-tooth-m2-high-speed-steel-tipped-saw-blade-529.html

I also have an abrasive metal cutting blade I used on 3/16" steel, but 
assume that will not give me a clean cut.

I have a little extra length in the top rail segments, so will make a 
test cut first.

Thanks for any recommendations,

Brian
_______________________________________________

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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 21:31:29 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Non-Ferrous miter saw blade?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 8:33 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:
> What is special about about a blade to make it good for non-ferrous metals
> like aluminum?  Since I only have a few cuts, can I get a clean edge from a
> cheap regular 10" blade?

Whenever I've made cuts in plastic (like PVC pipe) I turned the blade
around backwards.  Got the cleanest cut you could imagine, with no
chipping.

Never tried it in metal, but if you had a scrap you could test, I'd
find it interesting...  <G>

If you try this:  Be sure to clamp or restrain your workpiece
carefully.  I can think of all sorts of ways for it to go wrong, and I
have the fused finger bones to show for it.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 22:25:32 -0400
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
To: Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Non-Ferrous miter saw blade?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I have cut aluminum with my normal miter saw blade.  It worked reasonably
well, and
I continued to use the blade for wood.

Doug

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 9:31 PM, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>wrote:

> On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 8:33 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > What is special about about a blade to make it good for non-ferrous
> metals
> > like aluminum?  Since I only have a few cuts, can I get a clean edge
> from a
> > cheap regular 10" blade?
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'shop-talk@autox.team.net'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT127-W54C63F08AB6EC746D44BB49A9E0@phx.gbl><CAO8Q7CPtYvHpBkMKkeEK5RBgB=gaqC5H67g2aHHMXGuBwcdvig@mail.gmail.com><CAO8Q7CNfvG+GsWDhSqvFRGp7CQ916HHZZin-cnKRBwOju7=qPw@mail.gmail.com><875CF56AC2664DABB473D1EC6A8630F2@Mike>
	<CAO8Q7CMEF9RLcgo0ChRFTJvhjV7X0rzmvmrSfZpH0X8PnnqRcg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 19:28:10 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac2as7wlcyzJAPC6S7abgL2tjVQvjwAERuYw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I think I've already gone in deep enough to be pretty sure that you can
replace the batteries.

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 5:21 PM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet

On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 7:51 PM, Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote:
> Does this mean when the batteries do wear out after six years you just
throw
> everything away?  What a crazy marketing environment we live in!

I'm pretty sure you can replace the batteries.  Maybe they expect
you'll wear out the helmet before then...
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 24 20:46:20 2012
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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 19:45:30 -0700
From: Dave C <cavanadd@frontier.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120907
	Thunderbird/15.0.1
To: Jack Brooks <jibjib@att.net>
References: <SNT127-W54C63F08AB6EC746D44BB49A9E0@phx.gbl><CAO8Q7CPtYvHpBkMKkeEK5RBgB=gaqC5H67g2aHHMXGuBwcdvig@mail.gmail.com><CAO8Q7CNfvG+GsWDhSqvFRGp7CQ916HHZZin-cnKRBwOju7=qPw@mail.gmail.com><875CF56AC2664DABB473D1EC6A8630F2@Mike>
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Cc: "'shop-talk@autox.team.net'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

When you figure out how, please let us know.  I have a couple of them at 
school.

One way I test the helmet is to strike a flint striker in front of it.  
That usually causes it to darken.


On 9/24/2012 7:28 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:
> I think I've already gone in deep enough to be pretty sure that you can
> replace the batteries.
>
> Jack
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Mon Sep 24 21:16:58 2012
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'shop-talk@autox.team.net'" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT127-W54C63F08AB6EC746D44BB49A9E0@phx.gbl><CAO8Q7CPtYvHpBkMKkeEK5RBgB=gaqC5H67g2aHHMXGuBwcdvig@mail.gmail.com><CAO8Q7CNfvG+GsWDhSqvFRGp7CQ916HHZZin-cnKRBwOju7=qPw@mail.gmail.com><875CF56AC2664DABB473D1EC6A8630F2@Mike>
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Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 20:14:40 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac2ax9I9ZByUTyMnS7u1bMqI+Hw1+AAArWLw
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Dave,

On my helmet, which is a HF helmet, I found the batteries.  The very bottom
of the electrical assembly has a small raised tab on the right side. This is
on the lowest portion of the electrical assembly, facing directly back at
your face. Pushing this left and lifting reveals two AAA batteries.  it is
basically a snap on access panel.

This may be easier if you remove the two thumbscrews holding the entire
electrical assembly in place, just as you would do if you were going to
change out the clear glass on the outside of the helmet and them pull the
assembly out of the helmet entirely. 

Jack


-----Original Message-----
From: Dave C [mailto:cavanadd@frontier.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 7:46 PM
To: Jack Brooks
Cc: 'shop-talk@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet

When you figure out how, please let us know.  I have a couple of them at 
school.

One way I test the helmet is to strike a flint striker in front of it.  
That usually causes it to darken.


On 9/24/2012 7:28 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:
> I think I've already gone in deep enough to be pretty sure that you can
> replace the batteries.
>
> Jack
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 25 11:15:16 2012
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2012 13:12:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
To: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
References: <5060FBEF.6060304@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Alpine 2.00 (BSF 1167 2008-08-23)
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Non-Ferrous miter saw blade?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Mon, 24 Sep 2012, Brian Kemp wrote:
> I'm doing a railing project and was looking for a Non-Ferrous blade for my 
> 10" miter saw, but Lowes and Home Depot don't appear to have them in the 
> stores.  I want it for the weekend, so don't want to have to order online.  I 
> only have six cuts to make in a powder coated extruded aluminum top rail if 
> all is good, so also don't want to spend a bunch.
>
> What is special about about a blade to make it good for non-ferrous metals 
> like aluminum?  Since I only have a few cuts, can I get a clean edge from a 
> cheap regular 10" blade?  Are more teeth better? Four of the cuts will be 
> mitered corners, so I want them to be clean.  This will not be long term 
> production, so durability is not a concern.

    Actually, it's the opposite... a ferrous metal blade is special. 
There's nothing special at all about a non-ferrous blade, in fact, you can 
cut aluminium with most wood-working tools just fine (routers, etc). 
Obviously, be careful, and secure the work, but you don't really need 
anything special.

    If that's not good enough, get one of these from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Evolution-Power-Tools-RAGE255-Circular/dp/B00249JDY4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1348592805&sr=8-4&keywords=evolution+blade

    Unless you live in some serious hinterland, I bet Amazon will get you 
this before the weekend.  I have a similar blade in my Evolution saw, and 
it is extremely handy, and leaves a perfect edge on everything.

--
  David Hillman
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 25 13:03:03 2012
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Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2012 15:05:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Shop-talk] totally OT--- Polycom
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone out there have (extensive) knowledge of Polycom video 
conferencing systems? I think I have asked this group befor but am 
hoping for help again....

PLEASE, contact me offlist if you can answer some trouble shooting 
questions; especially feedback while connected to a three way call.

thanks!
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Tue Sep 25 18:15:25 2012
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From: PJ McGarvey <pj_mcgarvey@hotmail.com>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2012 20:18:00 -0400
References: <SNT127-W54C63F08AB6EC746D44BB49A9E0@phx.gbl><CAO8Q7CPtYvHpBkMKkeEK5RBgB=gaqC5H67g2aHHMXGuBwcdvig@mail.gmail.com><CAO8Q7CNfvG+GsWDhSqvFRGp7CQ916HHZZin-cnKRBwOju7=qPw@mail.gmail.com><875CF56AC2664DABB473D1EC6A8630F2@Mike>,
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	FILETIME=[6370CFC0:01CD9B7C]
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Not sure why it wasn't working so well before, but I did clean up the lens a
bit and a bright 75 watt bulb seems to confirm it works OK.  I'll assume
batteries are OK for the time being.
Now to see if the welder is fraught with hazard..

Thanks

> From: jibjib@att.net
> To: Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 20:14:40 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
>
> Dave,
>
> On my helmet, which is a HF helmet, I found the batteries.  The very bottom
> of the electrical assembly has a small raised tab on the right side. This
is
> on the lowest portion of the electrical assembly, facing directly back at
> your face. Pushing this left and lifting reveals two AAA batteries.  it is
> basically a snap on access panel.
>
> This may be easier if you remove the two thumbscrews holding the entire
> electrical assembly in place, just as you would do if you were going to
> change out the clear glass on the outside of the helmet and them pull the
> assembly out of the helmet entirely.
>
> Jack
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave C [mailto:cavanadd@frontier.com]
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 7:46 PM
> To: Jack Brooks
> Cc: 'shop-talk@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Welding auto-darkening helmet
>
> When you figure out how, please let us know.  I have a couple of them at
> school.
>
> One way I test the helmet is to strike a flint striker in front of it.
> That usually causes it to darken.
>
>
> On 9/24/2012 7:28 PM, Jack Brooks wrote:
> > I think I've already gone in deep enough to be pretty sure that you can
> > replace the batteries.
> >
> > Jack
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 19:49:40 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

My home wifi barely makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal. In
attempting to provide a usable signal, would I be better off trying one of the
signal repeater/boosters like this:http://tinyurl.com/8s4jdch Which may or may
not provide enough boost.Although a side benefit is it would surely improve
access around the pool area - and perhaps even induce personnel of great
visual appeal to frequent the area with their pads, smart phones & readers...
Or one of the power line gadgets, like
this:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127386
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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References: <20120926.154940.27021.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 13:34:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com>
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I used something similar to your first one...
http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=560158
1&CatId=372


I did have to run a wire to a location closer to where I was for
it work 'reliably.'   Then to keep it working reliably for the wireless
devices attached to that new router, I had to turn off the DHCP server. This
allowed the main router to dish out IPs. I initially tried the new router in
'repeater' mode and it while it did work, it was not reliable nor stable.
Depending on how long your run is, it might save your sanity by running a
direct burial cat6 out to a location closer to where it is needed, then attach
the device of your choice to that cable. You can still use the main router to
dish out IPs as mentioned before. 

Regards,
Brian
>________________________________
> From: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
>To:
shop-talk@autox.team.net 
>Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2012 3:49 PM
>Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop
> 
>My home wifi barely
makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal. In
>attempting to provide a
usable signal, would I be better off trying one of the
>signal
repeater/boosters like this:http://tinyurl.com/8s4jdch Which may or may
>not
provide enough boost.Although a side benefit is it would surely improve
>access around the pool area - and perhaps even induce personnel of great
>visual appeal to frequent the area with their pads, smart phones & readers...
>Or one of the power line gadgets, like
>this:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127386
>_______________________________________________
>
>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 26 15:09:56 2012
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	<1348691651.18598.YahooMailNeo@web140006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
From: Peter Murray <peterwmurray@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 17:08:14 -0400
To: shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

If you can run a wire to the shop or get the network-over-powerline
adapters to work, that would work best - just locate an access point
right there in the shop.

If that isn't possible, consider installing an access point (as close
as possible to the shop) with a directional antenna that focuses the
power towards the desired areas of coverage. Do you have any signal
whatsoever in the shop? If so, something like this may work:

http://www.ubnt.com/airmax#nanostationm

I have used the Nanostation Loco M5 (5GHz), and it has been great.
Good throughput and durable enough for outside use (exposed to rain,
snow, ice, etc).

Alternatively, if your main access point (from which you don't have
sufficient signal) has external detachable antennas, you could try
buying a single directional and pointing it towards the shop and
seeing if that solves the coverage issue. It won't affect your current
coverage by much at all.

-Peter (N3IXY)


On Wed, Sep 26, 2012 at 4:34 PM, Battmain <battmain@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I used something similar to your first one...
> http://www.compusa.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=560158
> 1&CatId=372
>
>
> I did have to run a wire to a location closer to where I was for
> it work 'reliably.'   Then to keep it working reliably for the wireless
> devices attached to that new router, I had to turn off the DHCP server. This
> allowed the main router to dish out IPs. I initially tried the new router in
> 'repeater' mode and it while it did work, it was not reliable nor stable.
> Depending on how long your run is, it might save your sanity by running a
> direct burial cat6 out to a location closer to where it is needed, then attach
> the device of your choice to that cable. You can still use the main router to
> dish out IPs as mentioned before.
>
> Regards,
> Brian
>>________________________________
>> From: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
>>To:
> shop-talk@autox.team.net
>>Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2012 3:49 PM
>>Subject: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop
>>
>>My home wifi barely
> makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal. In
>>attempting to provide a
> usable signal, would I be better off trying one of the
>>signal
> repeater/boosters like this:http://tinyurl.com/8s4jdch Which may or may
>>not
> provide enough boost.Although a side benefit is it would surely improve
>>access around the pool area - and perhaps even induce personnel of great
>>visual appeal to frequent the area with their pads, smart phones & readers...
>>Or one of the power line gadgets, like
>>this:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127386
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Suggested annual donation  $12.96
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/battmain@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/peterwmurray@gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Wed Sep 26 20:04:46 2012
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From: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 22:04:56 -0400
	a=P2oOn6vrs4wA:10 a=wJjgFq53tGJlaoXvjQHWgA==:17
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Subject: [Shop-talk] cheap pails
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

A friend showed me this 'trick' a few years ago. I suppose y'all already knew
this but none of youse guys told me...

Anyway, use a can opener (the kind you'd use to open a can of beans) to remove
the rim from a paint can when it's empty. After washing them out gallon size
paint cans (with the bail handle) make useful buckets. Quart size make useful
small pails &/or paint holders (I like to dispense paint into them rather
'contaminate' the original paint can).

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 27 04:46:27 2012
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Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 11:49:06 +0100
From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120907
	Thunderbird/15.0.1
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
References: <20120926.154940.27021.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Matt wrote:
> My home wifi barely makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal. In
> attempting to provide a usable signal, would I be better off trying one of the
> signal repeater/boosters like this:http://tinyurl.com/8s4jdch Which may or may
> not provide enough boost.Although a side benefit is it would surely improve
> access around the pool area - and perhaps even induce personnel of great
> visual appeal to frequent the area with their pads, smart phones & readers...
> Or one of the power line gadgets, like
> this:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127386
> _______________________________________________
>
>

Matt,

I've used the Netgear wi-fi version of the newegg product for a year. See

http://tinyurl.com/br844uh

It's worked well in the house which is an old brick building and out in 
the shop which is separate from the house. You could install one near 
the pool but I can't say that using one has resulted in the appearance 
of any POGVAs in my shop...

Nick
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 27 05:48:32 2012
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From: "Matt" <mbarre@juno.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 11:49:22 GMT
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
To: Undisclosed-recipients:;
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

As usual, the group came through with excellent info.  Logistics ultimately
made the call though, I started to order the lower cost, wifi booster only to
find they were sold out so I shifted to the wired solution.  I will post a
short report when I get it hooked up. Thanks guys!Matt

---------- Original Message ----------
From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop

Matt wrote:
> My home wifi barely makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal.
> _______________________________________________


Matt,
I've used the Netgear wi-fi version of the newegg product for a year. See
http://tinyurl.com/br844uh
It's worked well in the house which is an old brick building and out in
the shop which is separate from the house. You could install one near
the pool but I can't say that using one has resulted in the appearance
of any POGVAs in my shop...
Nick
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Thu Sep 27 08:16:56 2012
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	2012 10:17:46 -0400
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 07:17:45 -0700
From: Richard George <rkg@teleport.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:15.0) Gecko/20120907
	Thunderbird/15.0.1
To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>, shoptalk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20120927.074922.14201.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I guess I'm too late to this thread, but I have a pretty long house with 
lots of obstructions and was having trouble getting a decent signal in 
the kid's room - putting a parabolic reflector on the antennas on the 
wifi box using the following design did the trick for me:

http://limetrip.blogspot.com/2011/08/build-your-own-homemade-wi-fi-signal.html

http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/template2/index.html

Best,
rkg
(Richard George)
On 9/27/2012 4:49 AM, Matt wrote:
> As usual, the group came through with excellent info.  Logistics ultimately
> made the call though, I started to order the lower cost, wifi booster only to
> find they were sold out so I shifted to the wired solution.  I will post a
> short report when I get it hooked up. Thanks guys!Matt
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
> To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
> Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop
>
> Matt wrote:
>> My home wifi barely makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal.
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Matt,
> I've used the Netgear wi-fi version of the newegg product for a year. See
> http://tinyurl.com/br844uh
> It's worked well in the house which is an old brick building and out in
> the shop which is separate from the house. You could install one near
> the pool but I can't say that using one has resulted in the appearance
> of any POGVAs in my shop...
> Nick
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rkg@teleport.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'shoptalk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <20120927.074922.14201.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
	<50646009.7060500@teleport.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 17:14:46 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac2cuzvRJjoFmWCfRY+vvcN2oR5icgAUgadA
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

There is another choice.  I reflashed my Linksys WRT54G router (others will
work too) with Tomato software.  The Linksys is set to transmit at a fairly
low percentage of it's available power.  The standard is 47 of 256 on the
scale, yeah, about 20% of max.  The recommendation on the street is to go to
100.  It's a bit more of a complex solution, but doable.

I have a friend who built a coffee can antenna and transmitted wifi over 10
miles, line of sight to a buddies home, across a bay.  He's a Boeing
electrical engineer and does stuff like that for fun.

I am not using that boosted signal option.  I hardwired the entire house and
only have one or two non-critical wireless devices running. The can get what
they get. 

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard George
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2012 7:18 AM
To: Matt; shoptalk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop

Hi,

I guess I'm too late to this thread, but I have a pretty long house with 
lots of obstructions and was having trouble getting a decent signal in 
the kid's room - putting a parabolic reflector on the antennas on the 
wifi box using the following design did the trick for me:

http://limetrip.blogspot.com/2011/08/build-your-own-homemade-wi-fi-signal.ht
ml

http://www.freeantennas.com/projects/template2/index.html

Best,
rkg
(Richard George)
On 9/27/2012 4:49 AM, Matt wrote:
> As usual, the group came through with excellent info.  Logistics
ultimately
> made the call though, I started to order the lower cost, wifi booster only
to
> find they were sold out so I shifted to the wired solution.  I will post a
> short report when I get it hooked up. Thanks guys!Matt
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: nick brearley <nick@landform.co.uk>
> To: Matt <mbarre@juno.com>
> Cc: shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Tech question - for the shop
>
> Matt wrote:
>> My home wifi barely makes it to the shop - not a reliable signal.
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Matt,
> I've used the Netgear wi-fi version of the newegg product for a year. See
> http://tinyurl.com/br844uh
> It's worked well in the house which is an old brick building and out in
> the shop which is separate from the house. You could install one near
> the pool but I can't say that using one has resulted in the appearance
> of any POGVAs in my shop...
> Nick
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/rkg@teleport.com
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 29 11:55:35 2012
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From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] tie rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment sleeve? I 
cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start threading 
straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time.

96 S10 2WD if it matters.....

thanks
tim
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 29 12:43:05 2012
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From: ejrussell@mebtel.net
To: "Shop Talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>, "Tim" <tputland@charter.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:45:34 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods
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Quoting Tim <tputland@charter.net>:
> Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment sleeve? I
> cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start threading
> straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time. 

You likely need to 'chase' the threads. Once cross-threaded it will 
tend to follow that thread each time you try to assemble it (and get 
worse each time, too). Best would be to get a re-threading tap/die - 
less chance of cutting new (incorrect) threads. 

This is assuming the new part has the correct threads. Will the old tie 
rod thread back on OK?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 29 12:57:31 2012
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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:57:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: ejrussell@mebtel.net
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods
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I just bought new sleeves and it still won't thread straight. Threads on 
the rod end are not crossed...WTF am I going wrong?


On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:45 PM, ejrussell@mebtel.net wrote:

> Quoting Tim <tputland@charter.net>:
>> Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment sleeve? 
>> I
>> cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start 
>> threading
>> straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time.
>
> You likely need to 'chase' the threads. Once cross-threaded it will 
> tend to follow that thread each time you try to assemble it (and get 
> worse each time, too). Best would be to get a re-threading tap/die - 
> less chance of cutting new (incorrect) threads. This is assuming the 
> new part has the correct threads. Will the old tie rod thread back on 
> OK?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From: "scottmryan@netzero.net" <scottmryan@netzero.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 19:33:02 GMT
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Sometimes I have spread out the sleeve with a large flatblade screwdriver to
allow me to get it at least a half inch in (that was with old rusty sleeves
about 25 years ago)
Scott R

>I just bought new sleeves and it still won't thread straight. Threads on
>the rod end are not crossed...WTF am I going wrong?
____________________________________________________________
Woman is 53 But Looks 25
Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors...
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/50674cf0eb9314cf04c47st01duc
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From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, I am an idiot and freely admit it with my hand held high.

The new ones have the same length ball joint end threads. The old ones 
didn't. I thought I had the new outer since the threaded end of the new 
one looked longer than the other new one. Once I realized it was not the 
outer end, it went right together.

Free idiot training here from the master.

tim

On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Tim wrote:

> I just bought new sleeves and it still won't thread straight. Threads 
> on the rod end are not crossed...WTF am I going wrong?
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:45 PM, ejrussell@mebtel.net wrote:
>
>> Quoting Tim <tputland@charter.net>:
>>> Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment 
>>> sleeve? I
>>> cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start 
>>> threading
>>> straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time.
>>
>> You likely need to 'chase' the threads. Once cross-threaded it will 
>> tend to follow that thread each time you try to assemble it (and get 
>> worse each time, too). Best would be to get a re-threading tap/die - 
>> less chance of cutting new (incorrect) threads. This is assuming the 
>> new part has the correct threads. Will the old tie rod thread back on 
>> OK?
>>
>> Eric Russell
>> Mebane, NC
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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References: <5395b95e.4b7378.13a13becea0.Webtop.43@charter.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:54:55 -0400
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: "shop-talk@autox.team.net" <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 4:36 PM, Tim <tputland@charter.net> wrote:

> The new ones have the same length ball joint end threads. The old ones
> didn't. I thought I had the new outer since the threaded end of the new one
> looked longer than the other new one. Once I realized it was not the outer
> end, it went right together.
>

Be aware that some cars have left-hand threads on one side of the tie
rod.   I suppose you have a steering rack car, so that wasn't the problem
in your case, but still...

Jeff Wossisname
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 29 16:24:17 2012
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From: "Jack Brooks" <jibjib@att.net>
To: "'Shop Talk'" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
References: <5395b95e.4b7378.13a13becea0.Webtop.43@charter.net>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 15:27:30 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac2egjejmR964AKGSJa88VN4cQ6I6gADvcYg
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

Trust me;

You are not alone!

Jack

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 1:37 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods

Well, I am an idiot and freely admit it with my hand held high.

The new ones have the same length ball joint end threads. The old ones 
didn't. I thought I had the new outer since the threaded end of the new 
one looked longer than the other new one. Once I realized it was not the 
outer end, it went right together.

Free idiot training here from the master.

tim

On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Tim wrote:

> I just bought new sleeves and it still won't thread straight. Threads 
> on the rod end are not crossed...WTF am I going wrong?
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:45 PM, ejrussell@mebtel.net wrote:
>
>> Quoting Tim <tputland@charter.net>:
>>> Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment 
>>> sleeve? I
>>> cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start 
>>> threading
>>> straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time.
>>
>> You likely need to 'chase' the threads. Once cross-threaded it will 
>> tend to follow that thread each time you try to assemble it (and get 
>> worse each time, too). Best would be to get a re-threading tap/die - 
>> less chance of cutting new (incorrect) threads. This is assuming the 
>> new part has the correct threads. Will the old tie rod thread back on 
>> OK?
>>
>> Eric Russell
>> Mebane, NC
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/tputland@charter.net
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jibjib@att.net
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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 29 17:25:19 2012
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To: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
From: eric@megageek.com
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 19:13:06 -0400
	7.0.1|January 17, 2006) at 09/29/2012 19:13:01, Serialize complete at
	09/29/2012 19:13:01
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd hate to state the obvious, but are you sure you got the right side? 
(it's possible the threads are left handed on one side and right handed on 
the other.)


Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 




Tim <tputland@charter.net> 
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
09/29/2012 14:52

To
ejrussell@mebtel.net
cc
Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject
Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods






I just bought new sleeves and it still won't thread straight. Threads on 
the rod end are not crossed...WTF am I going wrong?


On Sat, Sep 29, 2012 at 1:45 PM, ejrussell@mebtel.net wrote:

> Quoting Tim <tputland@charter.net>:
>> Is there a trick to getting a new tie rod into the adjustment sleeve? 
>> I
>> cannot, for the life of me, get the new tie rod end to start 
>> threading
>> straight. It goes crooked on the first turn, everytime time.
>
> You likely need to 'chase' the threads. Once cross-threaded it will 
> tend to follow that thread each time you try to assemble it (and get 
> worse each time, too). Best would be to get a re-threading tap/die - 
> less chance of cutting new (incorrect) threads. This is assuming the 
> new part has the correct threads. Will the old tie rod thread back on 
> OK?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric@megageek.com
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From shop-talk-bounces-archive@autox.team.net  Sat Sep 29 19:14:23 2012
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Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 21:13:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tim <tputland@charter.net>
To: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] tie rods
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Errors-To: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net

We idiots stand united!
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


