Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets

From: Jim Franklin <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 14:09:32 -0400

The way the house is constructed I can't get a 4x8 sheet into the attic. I can
do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.

Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of the
t&g edge support?

thanks,
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From: Darrell Walker <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 11:12:45 -0700

> do a 4x4 and with some effort a 2x8, but none of those are t&g.

Sounds like an opportunity for a new tool!

-Darrell

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From: "Eric J Russell" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 14:13:50 -0400

Do you have a biscuit joiner? If not you now have a reason to own a biscuit 
joiner.

Or glue/screw a backing piece under the unsupported areas.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Franklin" <[email-masked]>
To: "shop-talk List" <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 2:09 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets

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From: "John T. Blair" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 15:43:28 -0400

>Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of the

Jim,

I'm not sure if you are planning on making this a finished area or 
not.  But I just
finished doing the same thing and had the same problem.  The access would
only allow a 2'x8' piece of plywood up into the attic.  So that's 
what I did.  But
I didn't plan on using toung & grove to start with.  I just butted 
the plywood piece
up the best I could.  This is raw, and only for walking and possible 
storage.  So
the fact that the pieces are "fit" together is no big deal.  I'll 
send you a zip file
of pictures of the job off-list.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  [email-masked]
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

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From: "Bob Jeffers" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 15:39:17 -0500

I would just put a board floor in laying the boards diagonal. Then if you 
want to finish the floor later on or when ever just get the 1/4 inch plywood 
and fasten it on top of the boards and then you will never have a loose or 
sagging  joint.

Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Franklin" <[email-masked]>
To: "shop-talk List" <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 1:09 PM
Subject: [Shop-talk] Putting floor in attic - can't fit 4x8 sheets

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From: BJNoSHOV8 <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 23:02:10 -0500

What spans do you have between joists, what thickness of plywood were 
you planning, and what type of use are you planning for the floor?

At first I was wondering why you would need T&G, but the answers to the 
questions above would help to define that.  And then I thought that if 
you really wanted T&G you could just set up a router and after ripping 
the plywood to 2' widths you could add your own T&G.

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From: Shannah Miller <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 21:40:07 -0700

Yeah, I totally agree: if you really want T&G, routing your own seems
like a reasonable idea, especially if you can dedicate a router to this
job for the duration.

On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 9:02 PM, BJNoSHOV8 <[email-masked]> wrote:
> What spans do you have between joists, what thickness of plywood were you
> planning, and what type of use are you planning for the floor?
>
> questions above would help to define that.  And then I thought that if you
> really wanted T&G you could just set up a router and after ripping the
> plywood to 2' widths you could add your own T&G.
>
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]

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From: Jim Franklin <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 07:50:42 -0400

16oc spans, 5/8 or 3/4 plywood/osb, storage of "stuff" i.e. dead loads.

I like t&g so I know I'm not going to overload an edge accidentally, or if the
next owner wants to use it for live loads and won't curse me like I'm cursing
the PO for using 1/2" and 3/8"). But not enough to buy a router and set up a
table to route all these boards :-)

The blocking ideas would work but there's insulation in the way.

Sounds like butt edges will be good enough!

jim

questions above would help to define that.  And then I thought that if you
really wanted T&G you could just set up a router and after ripping the plywood
to 2' widths you could add your own T&G.
>> Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie in place of
the
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/[email-masked]
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From: Doug Braun <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 08:31:33 -0400

Can a lumber yard order old-style tongue-and-groove flooring?

Doug

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From: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 09:19:00 -0400

> Can a lumber yard order old-style tongue-and-groove flooring?

I thought I had seen once a plywood attic floor panel that was made to
go through a small access hole.  But I found this:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=100482715
which seems interesting.

Another site mentioned 1x6 #3 spruce boards as a good alternative to plywood....
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From: "John T. Blair" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 09:50:34 -0400

>table to route all these boards :-)

Well I had 1/2" plywood wasn't happy with it, too flimsy.  Felt like 
I was going to
fall through.  So I just set another piece of 1/2" plywood or press 
board on top.
That helped by I still didn't like it, and I wasn't covering as much 
of the area as
I wanted.

So in March the wife and I pulled all the junk out of the attic, then 
started removing
some of the old decking and replacing it with 3/4" plywood.  Turned 
out pretty nice.
Now all we have to do is go through all the junk we took out of the 
attic, and throw
a bunch of it away.  What's left goes back into the attic.  But that 
will have to wait until
it cools off.

John

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From: Wayne <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 10:09:18 -0400

> The blocking ideas would work but there's insulation in the way.

Was wondering about the insulation issue myself.  Room mate & I had a 
rental house 20 years ago -- we wanted storage, but had limited space 
between the roof truss beams, and lots of blown in fiberglass we didn't 
want to compromise. And a lease that said we weren't allow to make 
modifications to the structure.

We nailed or screwed 2x6es across the trusses above the insulation 
level, then used 2x8' plywood, as you suggested. Was probably about 8x16 
feet finished. It was just for storage, so it was ok there was a little 
flex between panels.

They make those metal "H" clips for roof sheathing - would those work 
for you?

-Wayne

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 07:26:43 -0700

> Any options out there besides using some kind of Simpson Tie 

How about ripping the 4x8 sheets to match your beam spacing (eg 16") and
then using a 2x4 stringer every 8' to support the edges?  That's basically
what I've been doing, although I'm lucky enough to be able to get a 32" by
8' piece in (so I only need to rip each sheet once).

Even T&G is pretty weak for using without a subfloor IMO, unless you've gone
overboard on the floor thickness.

-- Randall  

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From: "Peter J. Thomas" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 21:52:31 -0400

> Sounds like butt edges will be good enough!
If you can get 4'x4' sheets up there, then cutting T&G 4x8 sheets in 
half is what I would do.  Reassemble the two 4x4 into a 4x8 sheet with 
the cut over a joist where you really don't need the T&G. This way you 
still  have T&G joints perpendicular to the joists.  Also stagger the 
sheets so the cuts on the same joist.  Usually with 4x8 you stagger the 
each sheet by 4 feet; start row with a full sheet and the next row with 
a half sheet.  In your case I would stagger the second row by only 16" 
and the third row by 32"

Peter T.
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