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LinkedIn
------------



I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn.

- Robert

Robert Lane
--
Wichita, Kansas Area

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Subject: [Shop-talk] compressor/sandblast guru question
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Ibve got a Quincy 310 compressor sitting on a 80 gallon tank... using a 5 hp
motor.  Itbs turning about 800 rpm

the rating is 3.9 to 9.6 ACFM @ 175psig   with a 2-3 hp motor...

Ibm wondering if it will handle a small (bench top) or small upright sand
blast cabinet without laboring it to death

Harbor Freight rates their 40# upright model at  9.5 cfm at 90 psi..

A NESCO about the same size says 12 cfm at 80 psi...

An ATLAS says 15 cfm at 100 psi

sounds like blast cabinets are rated like lawn mower engine horsepower ratings
!!!!!

any ideas if I have enough compressor ??

thanks
John
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 10:39:49 2012
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Probably not. My dad has a large IR 2-stage; probably a 'real' 7HP or greater on I believe (at least) a 60-gal tank (maybe 80). It struggles to keep up with his blast cabinet--the compressor is off for the first 5min or so of blasting, then has to run almost continuously thereafter. 

>From what I know of fluid dynamics--not much--I've always wondered what a large tank offers. Yes, the tank will put out more air before it reaches min pressure and the compressor fires, but then the compressor has to run longer to replace the volume of air lost. 

Seems to me you need the most powerful compressor you can get, regardless of tank size, so the compressor can replenish the tank quickly then get a rest cycle. I think the 'HP' and 'gallons' numbers aren't particularly relevant; what you need to know is what volume of air at what pressure the compressor can put out (maybe that's the second set of numbers you mentioned; it's not clear to me). The tank just 'buffers' the air flow. 

Maybe a guru can enlighten us. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net> 
To: "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 8:42:33 AM 
Subject: [Shop-talk] compressor/sandblast guru question 

Ibve got a Quincy 310 compressor sitting on a 80 gallon tank... using a 5 hp 
motor. Itbs turning about 800 rpm 

the rating is 3.9 to 9.6 ACFM @ 175psig with a 2-3 hp motor... 

Ibm wondering if it will handle a small (bench top) or small upright sand 
blast cabinet without laboring it to death 

Harbor Freight rates their 40# upright model at 9.5 cfm at 90 psi.. 

A NESCO about the same size says 12 cfm at 80 psi... 

An ATLAS says 15 cfm at 100 psi 

sounds like blast cabinets are rated like lawn mower engine horsepower ratings 
!!!!! 

any ideas if I have enough compressor ?? 

thanks 
John 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 20 10:40:23 2012
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Do you know what the SCFM rating is at ~100 psi? That is more likely 
where you'll want to set the pressure for sandblasting. 

I suspect you've got an adequate air supply - especially for small 
items in a small cabinet. More important is a supply of dry air. 
Blasting does not like wet air. A run of metal pipe (copper or steel) 
will encourage the air to cool down and the water to condense out. Plan 
the air line leading to the cabinet such that it will not come off the 
bottom of a run to keep water out. 

See the air piping instructions at 
http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/airline-piping-diagram.pdf

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

Quoting John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>:
> Ibve got a Quincy 310 compressor sitting on a 80 gallon tank... using a 5 hp
> motor.  Itbs turning about 800 rpm
>
> the rating is 3.9 to 9.6 ACFM @ 175psig   with a 2-3 hp motor... 
>
> Ibm wondering if it will handle a small (bench top) or small upright sand
> blast cabinet without laboring it to death

>
> any ideas if I have enough compressor ??
>
> thanks
> John
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> Maybe a guru can enlighten us.

I am certainly no guru; but my opinion is that as long as the compressor can
keep up with the load, you don't need a large tank or a larger compressor.
It won't hurt the compressor to run continuously, in fact it is probably
worse (in terms of overall wear, power consumption etc) to keep starting and
stopping it.

The large tank is primarily an advantage in two ways: it lets you work
longer with tools that take more air than the compressor can produce, and it
allows for longer on/off cycles.  In other words, it is actually an
advantage to have the compressor off for longer, followed by being on for
longer.  (Among other things, every time the compressor stops, a certain
amount of compressed air is vented to the atmosphere, so it doesn't have to
start under full load next time.)

Compressor "hp" ratings are indeed like lawnmower "hp", except maybe worse.
CFM ratings seem to be a little more consistent to me, but you have to be
very careful about what kind of CFM they are talking about.  Air tools (like
blast cabinets) seem to typically be rated in ACFM at their inlet; while
compressors are generally rated in ACFM or SCFM (by which they really mean
ACFM) at their inlet.  The problem is that the ACFM at the outlet of a
compressor (where the air tool is attached) is many times lower than the
ACFM at the inlet!

> Ibve got a Quincy 310 compressor sitting on a 80 gallon tank... using a
> 5 hp motor.

This probably falls into the fake hp department.  According to Quincy, their
310 compressor is not suitable for more than 3 hp.

> Itbs turning about 800 rpm

According to Quincy's data sheet, that should be about 8 ACFM @ 175 psi;
about 11 ACFM free air.  For the sake of argument, let's assume 10 ACFM @ 90
psi.  ACFM at the outlet is roughly the ACFM at the inlet times the ratio of
absolute pressures.  90 psi is roughly 6 atmospheres "gauge" or 7
atmospheres absolute, so the pressure and CFM ratio is roughly 1:7.  So the
actual output is roughly 10/7 or 1.4 cfm.

My small, bench top blast cabinet draws about 4 ACFM @ 90 psi.

So no, I don't think you have enough compressor for continuous operation of
the blast cabinet, unless your nozzle is a lot smaller than mine is (which
is certainly possible).

A cubic foot is about 7.5 US liquid gallons, so your 80 gallon tank holds
about 10.6 cubic feet.  If it is at 175 psi and you regulate the output down
to 90 psi, that will expand to roughly 19cf @ 90 psi.  If the gun is drawing
4 cfm and the compressor supplying 1.4 cfm, then you'll get about 19/2.6 or
7 minutes of blast cabinet operation before you'll have to stop and wait for
the compressor to catch up.

Depending on what you want to do, 7 minutes may be enough.  I rarely spend
that long on a single part; and the compressor could catch up while you are
preparing the next part for blasting (removing all the loose scale, dirt,
grease, etc).

PS Feel free to "beat up" on my numbers.  I've used only rough
approximations to a lot of things, including using 15 psi for atmospheric
pressure (it's closer to 14.7) and ignoring the effects of temperature
changes and humidity.  But I think the result is good enough to answer your
question.

-- Randall 
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Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 18:16:42 -0400
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From: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>
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At 11:42 AM 4/20/2012, John Niolon wrote:

 >Ibve got a Quincy 310 compressor sitting on a 80 gallon tank... using a 5 hp
 >motor.  Itbs turning about 800 rpm the rating is 3.9 to 9.6 ACFM @ 
175psig
 >with a 2-3 hp motor...

 >Ibm wondering if it will handle a small (bench top) or small upright sand
 >blast cabinet without laboring it to death

John,

For starters compressors are a lot like computer memory, disk size, and money;
you never have enough.

That said, I run a blast cabinet and a pressure blaster (not at the same time)
with my craftsman 30 gal, 5 hp 110psi compressor.  I can blow more air than my
compressor can make, so every 5 to 15 minuites I have to take a break and let
the compressor catch up.

But one thing no one has mentioned, is the size of the nozzle.  For a 
hobbiest,
use the smallest (dia.) you can get.  Then as it wears, and opens, 
you will use
more and more air.  You blasting will get slower and slower.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
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      In God We Trust
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                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] compressor/sandblast guru question
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A permanent blast cabinet setup is so handy that it is worth putting up
with a somewhat undersized compressor.  You will have to stop and wait
occasionally, but that will take less time than:

1: earning the money to buy a bigger compressor
2: Actually buying it.
3: Getting it delivered and hooked up.

I have a 169.CFM, 6.5HP compressor, and it has no trouble at all running my
cabinet, with
a TP Tools medium-size nozzle.

Doug

On Fri, Apr 20, 2012 at 11:42 AM, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

> Ib ve got a Quincy 310 compressor sitting on a 80 gallon tank... using a 5
> hp
> motor.  Itb s turning about 800 rpm
>
> the rating is 3.9 to 9.6 ACFM @ 175psig   with a 2-3 hp motor...
>
> Ib m wondering if it will handle a small (bench top) or small upright sand
> blast cabinet without laboring it to death
>
> Harbor Freight rates their 40# upright model at  9.5 cfm at 90 psi..
>
> A NESCO about the same size says 12 cfm at 80 psi...
>
> An ATLAS says 15 cfm at 100 psi
>
> sounds like blast cabinets are rated like lawn mower engine horsepower
> ratings
> !!!!!
>
> any ideas if I have enough compressor ??
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From: Bob Hare <rhare34@yahoo.com>
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You have more than enough pressure & more importantly, volume to run a small
blast cabinet.  I've run a 6.5 HP / 60 gallon rated at 9.4 SCFM for years on a
small blast cabinet.  I finally stepped up & added a second 60 gallon air
receiver, and piped my entire shop with 3/4 galvanized pipe.  Now my
compressor runs alot less.  So I'd say that the increased volume really
stopped my compressor from running all the time.  Oh yea, John Blair has my
old bench top blast cabinet, and I'm glad to see he is still using it!


Bob
Hare (eBay id: rhare34)
Virginia Beach, Va.
1934 Ford Streetrod Pickup
2005
Ford Five Hundred Limited




If you can read this, thank a teacher.... If you
are reading this in 
English, thank a Veteran.......
________________________________
From: John T. Blair <jblair1948@cox.net>
To:
shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] compressor/sandblast guru question

At 11:42 AM
4/20/2012, John Niolon wrote:

>Ibve got a Quincy 310 compressor sitting on a
80 gallon tank... using a 5 hp
>motor.  Itbs turning about 800 rpm the rating
is 3.9 to 9.6 ACFM @ 175psig
>with a 2-3 hp motor...

>Ibm wondering if it
will handle a small (bench top) or small upright sand
>blast cabinet without
laboring it to death

John,

For starters compressors are a lot like computer
memory, disk size, and money;
you never have enough.

That said, I run a blast
cabinet and a pressure blaster (not at the same time)
with my craftsman 30
gal, 5 hp 110psi compressor.  I can blow more air than my
compressor can make,
so every 5 to 15 minuites I have to take a break and let
the compressor catch
up.

But one thing no one has mentioned, is the size of the nozzle.  For a
hobbiest,
use the smallest (dia.) you can get.  Then as it wears, and opens,
you will use
more and more air.  You blasting will get slower and slower.
John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ    email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va       
          Phone:  (757) 495-8229

          48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65
Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
    75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71
Saab Sonett III
                      65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:   
www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this     
      - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!
>From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
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one."
    In God We Trust
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and  acting  for
                  oneself; freedom  from  control  or 
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Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 15:51:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bob Hare <rhare34@yahoo.com>
To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] compressor/sandblast guru question
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BTW, I'm running a Tip Tools medium nozzle on a home built blast cabinet. 
www.tptools.com


Bob Hare (eBay id: rhare34)
Virginia Beach, Va.
1934 Ford
Streetrod Pickup
2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited




If you can read this,
thank a teacher.... If you are reading this in 
English, thank a
Veteran.......


________________________________
From: Doug Braun
<doug@dougbraun.com>
To: John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> 
Cc: shop-talk
<shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 6:37 PM
Subject: Re:
[Shop-talk] compressor/sandblast guru question

A permanent blast cabinet
setup is so handy that it is worth putting up
with a somewhat undersized
compressor.  You will have to stop and wait
occasionally, but that will take
less time than:

1: earning the money to buy a bigger compressor
2: Actually
buying it.
3: Getting it delivered and hooked up.

I have a 169.CFM, 6.5HP
compressor, and it has no trouble at all running my
cabinet, with
a TP Tools
medium-size nozzle.

Doug

On Fri, Apr 20, 2012 at 11:42 AM, John Niolon
<jniolon@att.net> wrote:

> Ib ve got a Quincy 310 compressor sitting on a 80
gallon tank... using a 5
> hp
> motor.  Itb s turning about 800 rpm
>
> the
rating is 3.9 to 9.6 ACFM @ 175psig  with a 2-3 hp motor...
>
> Ib m wondering
if it will handle a small (bench top) or small upright sand
> blast cabinet
without laboring it to death
>
> Harbor Freight rates their 40# upright model
at  9.5 cfm at 90 psi..
>
> A NESCO about the same size says 12 cfm at 80
psi...
>
> An ATLAS says 15 cfm at 100 psi
>
> sounds like blast cabinets are
rated like lawn mower engine horsepower
> ratings
> !!!!!
>
> any ideas if I
have enough compressor ??
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John,

Blasting quickly takes a huge amount of air - as someone else said, it's
like computer RAM - you could always use more.

I have that exact cabinet - certainly one of the nicest things Harbor
Freight has ever offered.  My compressor is a 2-stage, "real" 2-HP motor (a
little over 12 amps at 220V single-phase) and puts out about 7 SCFM.
Handles my old-style paint guns just fine - the ones that take 7 SCFM - I
can paint all day without any problem.

But for blasting, I use the smallest nozzle of the several that come with
the cabinet, and I can only blast for a few minutes at decent pressure and
then it gets to the less-effective pressure range. If I just keep blasting
the compressor will be able to keep it a little above 60 PSI,.  It works,
especially on very light rust or thin paint, but that's just not enough to
blast most things off very quickly.

Soon I hope to get a new pump for my 5-HP, 80-gallon upright compressor, and
I anticipate that will be just about enough for average blasting.  Even with
that though, I'll probably have to do the toughest jobs in spurts, while the
tank is at or near max pressure, and then wait for it to build back up
again.

Karl


-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Niolon
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 10:43
To: shop-talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] compressor/sandblast guru question

Ibve got a Quincy 310 compressor sitting on a 80 gallon tank... using a 5
hp motor.  Itbs turning about 800 rpm

the rating is 3.9 to 9.6 ACFM @ 175psig   with a 2-3 hp motor...

Ibm wondering if it will handle a small (bench top) or small upright sand
blast cabinet without laboring it to death

Harbor Freight rates their 40# upright model at  9.5 cfm at 90 psi..

A NESCO about the same size says 12 cfm at 80 psi...

An ATLAS says 15 cfm at 100 psi

sounds like blast cabinets are rated like lawn mower engine horsepower
ratings !!!!!

any ideas if I have enough compressor ??

thanks
John
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From: Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com>
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Tim Mullen
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All,

This message was relayed on a British car forum where Tim and I have both been
active:

Hello everyone,

This is Tim Mullen's wife.

Tim had a massive episode of what we don't really know, but put him in ICU
for a few days with 100% ventilator.

Either a major stroke or ?????

Anyway, we need to get his brain firing on all cylinders.

I know he loves his cars and you guys.

If you post some comments (especially things that you might need help with
your cars) I want to read them to him and get his mind jump started.

As I know more I'll let you know.

He considers you all his best virtual friends. And some we have met at
various car shows

Jo Mullen

Tim has made a big contribution here over the years, so let's all hope for a
quick, full recovery.

Jo, if you see this please allow us to help in any way we can.

Thanks,

Paul Parkanzky
paul@parkanzky.com
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On Apr 20, 2012, at 11:37 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

>
>
> From what I know of fluid dynamics--not much--I've always wondered what a
large tank offers. Yes, the tank will put out more air before it reaches min
pressure and the compressor fires, but then the compressor has to run longer
to replace the volume of air lost.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 12:34:52 2012
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Also good to run an extended line--25 ft or more--from the compressor to the water trap. That way the air cools and water condenses before it hits the trap. 

Bob 


-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Scheidt" <dmscheidt@gmail.com> 
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> 
Cc: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>, "shop-talk" <shop-talk@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 9:15:31 AM 
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] compressor/sandblast guru question 



On Apr 20, 2012, at 11:37 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote: 

> 
> 
> From what I know of fluid dynamics--not much--I've always wondered what a large tank offers. Yes, the tank will put out more air before it reaches min pressure and the compressor fires, but then the compressor has to run longer to replace the volume of air lost. 

One thing a big tank can give you is cooler drier air. Air straight out of the compressor is hot and wet. As it cools, the water condenses. A tank big enough to ensure the air being drawn off is room temp means the driers have to work less hard. I've worked with some industrial set ups that had oodles of compressor capacity to meet their peak load, but used large tanks to buffer the temperature and moisture. 
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 17:41:34 2012
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thanks guys for all the info...  I guess my quest begins to find/build a blast
cabinet...  the shop is plumbed per tip tools diagram using 1/2" galvanized
pipe (yes, I know black is better but galvanized was free.)

The main run is about 25' long with 4 drops that come off the top of the
pipe... down to a fitting in a tee and a ball valve/drain at the end of each
drop...  water filter at head end about 5' from compressor and another at the
end.  Compressor makes about a cup of water a week with occasional use with
air tools and a da sander... I've never gotten the first drop of water out of
the system when opening the drains... but I did blow a lizzard across the yard
once.

can anyone recommend tip sizes ... if I build, I'll just buy the kit from TIP
I guess... but all info and recommendations are appreciated..

thanks
John
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 17:53:53 2012
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Subject: [Shop-talk] gantry crane - a frame
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I've got a gantry crane/ a-frame  that's is taking up real estate and needs to
find a new home.  Haven't used it in a long time and thinking about
Craigslisting it...   8' high with a 11.5' span and mobile on 9" swivel cast
iron wheels...   It's home built using a 6" H-beam, 2.5" pipe legs with
bracing to hold it all together.  Haven't got a clue on rating, but it's seen
a 2000-2500 lbs with no strain.

My problem is what is it worth... I see the commercial units for a grand or
better.  H.F. has one with two vertical legs and  rated at 1 ton for about
650.

I can send pics if anyone is interested in seeing it.....   Any ideas what it
might be worth ???  what to ask for it on C.L. ???

tia
JOhn





I'm sarcastic... what's your superpower ?
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: "Skip Albright" <salbrigh@nycap.rr.com>, "shop-talk"
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Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 19:31:47 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] gantry crane - a frame
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no take-apart... it's all welded together... need a trailer to move it... it 
won't fit in a pickup...
I'm in Hueytown Al.   about 12 miles SW of Birmingham...   I'll send you 
some pics... wish we could post here !

 john

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Skip Albright" <salbrigh@nycap.rr.com>
To: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] gantry crane - a frame


>
>
>
> yeah good new ones are thousand-ish and the HF ones go on sale for 
> $400-600
>
> yours is prolly better, but people are funny about "homemade"  things.
>
> does it come a part to transport?
>
> Where are you?
>
> love to see pics.
>
> thanks
>
> Skip
>
>
>
> At 07:50 PM 4/22/2012, you wrote:
>>I've got a gantry crane/ a-frame  that's is taking up real estate and 
>>needs to
>>find a new home.  Haven't used it in a long time and thinking about
>>Craigslisting it...   8' high with a 11.5' span and mobile on 9" swivel 
>>cast
>>iron wheels...   It's home built using a 6" H-beam, 2.5" pipe legs with
>>bracing to hold it all together.  Haven't got a clue on rating, but it's 
>>seen
>>a 2000-2500 lbs with no strain.
>>
>>My problem is what is it worth... I see the commercial units for a grand 
>>or
>>better.  H.F. has one with two vertical legs and  rated at 1 ton for about
>>650.
>>
>>I can send pics if anyone is interested in seeing it.....   Any ideas what 
>>it
>>might be worth ???  what to ask for it on C.L. ???
>>
>>tia
>>JOhn
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>I'm sarcastic... what's your superpower ?
>>_______________________________________________
>>
>>Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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>
> Nothing is as it appears
> Skip Albright
> Glenmont NY
> salbrigh@nycap.rr.com
> http://www.volvoskip.com/
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Apr 22 19:44:13 2012
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] compressor/sandblast guru question
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Here are some photos of the cabinet I built from their kit:

http://www.dougbraun.com/model_a_gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1244

Doug

On Sun, Apr 22, 2012 at 7:44 PM, John Niolon <jniolon@att.net> wrote:

>
> can anyone recommend tip sizes ... if I build, I'll just buy the kit from
> TIP
> I guess... but all info and recommendations are appreciated..
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Apr 23 16:26:09 2012
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure Washer
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Hi,

I would like to do something nice for my uncle, who is
getting on in years, and has a TON of pressure washing
to do around his house.

I'm not looking for the cheap solution: does anyone have
any suggestion for a really GOOD power washer?  If it
has the ability to use solutions, in addition to just water,
that would be great.  If I can shop online and have it
shipped, more the better.

What pressure washer would you get if it was going to
be yours or a gift to a loved one?

Thanks for any suggestions,

Shannah
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> If it
> has the ability to use solutions, in addition to just water,
> that would be great.

I don't have a suggestion, just something to watch for.  The pressure washer
I got had the "solution" input and even came with a gallon of soap.  What I
didn't realize before buying is that it will not pick up the solution when
in "high pressure" mode.  It will only suck the soap when the outlet is
opened up.

-- Randall 
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Suggest at least 2500psi or better. Anything less has just annoyed me when I used it. Even with that amount of power, the rotating turbo nozzle is needed for the moldy sidewalks by me otherwise the job takes twice as long. Pricewise, you can get the units for 399 and up. 

B

Sent from my BlackBerry

-----Original Message-----
From: Shannah Miller <shannahquilts@gmail.com>
Sender: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 15:26:26 
To: ShopTalk<shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Shop-talk] Pressure Washer

Hi,

I would like to do something nice for my uncle, who is
getting on in years, and has a TON of pressure washing
to do around his house.

I'm not looking for the cheap solution: does anyone have
any suggestion for a really GOOD power washer?  If it
has the ability to use solutions, in addition to just water,
that would be great.  If I can shop online and have it
shipped, more the better.

What pressure washer would you get if it was going to
be yours or a gift to a loved one?

Thanks for any suggestions,

Shannah
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Randall - That is how mine is too.  I thought that is how they all 
worked.  You spray on the desired solution at low pressure and let is 
soak in then switch to high to actually clean and rinse.  It lets you 
wash then rinse a section at a time without having to make changes to 
the pressure washer.  I can see this feature being really handy if you 
are doing a house while on a ladder.

Brian

On 4/23/2012 4:09 PM, Randall wrote:
>> If it
>> has the ability to use solutions, in addition to just water,
>> that would be great.
> I don't have a suggestion, just something to watch for.  The pressure washer
> I got had the "solution" input and even came with a gallon of soap.  What I
> didn't realize before buying is that it will not pick up the solution when
> in "high pressure" mode.  It will only suck the soap when the outlet is
> opened up.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 24 10:30:02 2012
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I found this one, that seems to fit the bill, in terms of having
enough pressure, and the ability to use detergent in addition
to the clean water spray.

Simpson Megashot MSH3125-S 3,100 PSI Honda GC190 Premium Gas Powered
Heavy Duty Pressure Washer

Anyone have any better suggestions?  If not, this is the one
I'm going to get for my uncle.  Thank you so much for your
input!

Shannah

On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 9:25 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Randall - That is how mine is too.  I thought that is how they all worked.
>  You spray on the desired solution at low pressure and let is soak in then
> switch to high to actually clean and rinse.  It lets you wash then rinse a
> section at a time without having to make changes to the pressure washer.  I
> can see this feature being really handy if you are doing a house while on a
> ladder.
>
> Brian
>
>
> On 4/23/2012 4:09 PM, Randall wrote:
>>>
>>> If it
>>> has the ability to use solutions, in addition to just water,
>>> that would be great.
>>
>> I don't have a suggestion, just something to watch for.  The pressure
>> washer
>> I got had the "solution" input and even came with a gallon of soap.  What
>> I
>> didn't realize before buying is that it will not pick up the solution when
>> in "high pressure" mode.  It will only suck the soap when the outlet is
>> opened up.
>>
>> -- Randall
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 24 12:12:25 2012
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Cc: Tim.Mullen@ngc.com, shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Tim Mullen
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Paul, 
Can you see that Tim gets this? (Or at least email me an address to get it 
to Tim's wife?)  I'm also cc'ing the email address that I have for Tim and 
the shop talk list to make sure I get it to him.

Tim, 

This is Eric (or "Inch") from Stop Talk list.  I just wanted to reach out 
and let you know that there are lots of us here thinking about you.  I 
just thought back over the years about things you personally  helped me. 
Some quick ones that come to mind are...
-Advice on the difference between industrial and automotive air couplers
-Where to find quality jumper cable connectors
-How to do home front end alinements, and the tools needed
-And the merits of static balancing vs. high speed balancing of tires.

But mostly, I remember you taking the time to give me a detail list of 
what I needed to do to store my truck for it's year long storage when I 
got deployed to Iraq.  Advice that I had to use a second time to go to 
Afghanistan afterwards.

You ended the email with "Good luck over there, and keep you head down." 
(I still have the email)

Well, I kept my head down and may it home twice.  But now it's time for 
you to "get your head up" and get back online.  Us shade tree mechanics 
out here need your expertise!

So, get out of bed trooper and get back in that shop!!!  That's an order!! 
(Don't forget, I'm a Captain in the US Army, so that really *IS* and 
order!)

God Bless, and a speedy recovery from me (and all of the lugs on the Shop 
talk list, I'm sure.) You are in our prayers.

Eric P
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational 
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph 
Waldo Emerson 

PS- yesterday I DIDN'T keep my head down and I broke my nose putting some 
wood on a shelf.  Time to build yet another garage for MORE STUFF!!!!  8>)



----- Forwarded by Eric Petrevich/Megageek on 04/24/2012 13:58 -----

Paul Parkanzky <parkanzky@gmail.com> 
Sent by: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
04/22/2012 11:38

To
"shop-talk@autox.team.net" <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
cc

Subject
[Shop-talk] Tim Mullen






All,

This message was relayed on a British car forum where Tim and I have both 
been
active:

Hello everyone,

This is Tim Mullen's wife.

Tim had a massive episode of what we don't really know, but put him in ICU
for a few days with 100% ventilator.

Either a major stroke or ?????

Anyway, we need to get his brain firing on all cylinders.

I know he loves his cars and you guys.

If you post some comments (especially things that you might need help with
your cars) I want to read them to him and get his mind jump started.

As I know more I'll let you know.

He considers you all his best virtual friends. And some we have met at
various car shows

Jo Mullen

Tim has made a big contribution here over the years, so let's all hope for 
a
quick, full recovery.

Jo, if you see this please allow us to help in any way we can.

Thanks,

Paul Parkanzky
paul@parkanzky.com
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Tim,

Like Eric (Inch), I too (John T. Blair) have saved many of your emails over the
years.  We miss your sage advice.

We don't really know what is wrong but we are keeping you in our prayers.

A stay in the hospital ain't no fun for anyone.  So get better 
quickly and get the
h$%@ out of there.  Then you can get back to you shop and computer and
giving us all moral support as we fumble through our odd jobs in the shop.

John

John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin:  www.bricklin.org

If you can read this             - Thank a teacher!
If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!!

 From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy:
      e pluribus Unum, "from many, one."
      In God We Trust
      Liberty - the  power  of  choosing,  thinking,  and  acting  for
                   oneself; freedom  from  control  or  restriction
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Apr 24 15:53:25 2012
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fw:  Tim Mullen
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Eric,

I'm afraid that I don't have any more a direct line to Tim than you do.

I can, however, pass along some great news from the forums:

---From the Forums (Not My Writing)---

My wife Debbie & I went by the hospital after work, and saw Tim. He was
quite alert, considering the pain meds he is on.

He is bruised up, has a torn muscle in his leg, and a damaged lumbar
vertebra. He can't walk on his own yet, but will be fitted for a brace
soon, which should help. They do not know yet what caused the episode that
landed him in the ER, but tests show it wasn't a seizure, nor a stroke, nor
a heart attack.

We dropped off a Get Well Soon card, from his Lotus friends from around the
world. We also gave him a Lotus 25 model kit. I told him we were going to
need the model assembled, painted, and decal'd by, say, early next week. He
said he'd look into it.

We talked cars, and car people, and he was quite lucid throughout. He is a
bit embarrassed by the fuss online, as his wife Jo has described it to him,
but he is genuinely appreciative of the thoughts. He does not have access
to a computer at this time.
/SNIP/
--------------------------------------

I removed some forum specific stuff at the end, but the upshot is that Tim
seems to be on the mend and with his faculties in tact.  It's wonderful
news and I think it's just a matter of time before we see Tim on here again.

-Paul

On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 2:05 PM, <eric@megageek.com> wrote:

> Paul,
> Can you see that Tim gets this? (Or at least email me an address to get it
> to Tim's wife?)  I'm also cc'ing the email address that I have for Tim and
> the shop talk list to make sure I get it to him.
>
> Tim,
>
> This is Eric (or "Inch") from Stop Talk list.  I just wanted to reach out
> and let you know that there are lots of us here thinking about you.  I
> just thought back over the years about things you personally  helped me.
> Some quick ones that come to mind are...
> -Advice on the difference between industrial and automotive air couplers
> -Where to find quality jumper cable connectors
> -How to do home front end alinements, and the tools needed
> -And the merits of static balancing vs. high speed balancing of tires.
>
> But mostly, I remember you taking the time to give me a detail list of
> what I needed to do to store my truck for it's year long storage when I
> got deployed to Iraq.  Advice that I had to use a second time to go to
> Afghanistan afterwards.
>
> You ended the email with "Good luck over there, and keep you head down."
> (I still have the email)
>
> Well, I kept my head down and may it home twice.  But now it's time for
> you to "get your head up" and get back online.  Us shade tree mechanics
> out here need your expertise!
>
> So, get out of bed trooper and get back in that shop!!!  That's an order!!
> (Don't forget, I'm a Captain in the US Army, so that really *IS* and
> order!)
>
> God Bless, and a speedy recovery from me (and all of the lugs on the Shop
> talk list, I'm sure.) You are in our prayers.
>
> Eric P
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a rational
> being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory." Ralph
> Waldo Emerson
>
> PS- yesterday I DIDN'T keep my head down and I broke my nose putting some
> wood on a shelf.  Time to build yet another garage for MORE STUFF!!!!  8>)
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 17:32:15 2012
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Subject: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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Is there any logic behind there being few (if any) <5 gal
yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
Any suggestions?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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C'mon Steve, man up.  You are from Washington State.  Grrrrr!  We have a
reputation to uphold.  <Huge Grin>

I know what you mean.  I fill 4, 5 gallon gasoline containers every fall for
the winter generator season.  They are heavy. How about just filling them up
half way?  If they seal tightly, there will not be a condensation issue.

Jack
Covington, Washington State

-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Hammatt Mount
Vernon WA USA
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 4:29 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can

Is there any logic behind there being few (if any) <5 gal
yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
Any suggestions?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
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Steve - I just did a quick search at Amazon and see what you mean. They 
have the red poly in smaller sizes, but not yellow. You could always try 
to spray a red one with yellow plastic paint or wrap it in yellow duct tape.

Should you go metal, Justrite 7110200 and 7120200 are 1 and 2 gallon 
options.

Brian

On 4/25/2012 4:29 PM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
> Is there any logic behind there being few (if any)<5 gal
> yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
> nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
> I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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Steve wrote:
>Is there any logic behind there being few (if any) <5 gal
>yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
>nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
>I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
>Any suggestions?

         I couldn't find any using Google.  Don't know why.  Oliver Stone 
would, of course, claim it's a conspiracy...
         Diesel and "gas" cans are made from the same polyethylene plastic, 
only the color differs.  I'd just buy a regular red gas can and spray paint 
it yellow to eliminate any confusion over what type of fuel it contains.


Todd
Seattle,WA
'86 GTI, Red of course. (exciting racey car) 274,000 miles
'01 Golf TDI, silver.   (new work car)       338,000 miles
'87 Golf, Polar Silver. (retired work car)   654,000 miles <- Gone to a new 
home :(
http://www.pureluckdesign.com <-Ferrari & VW stuff
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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IIRC my grand dad had some 2.5 or 3 gallon jugs he used for diesel for the
tractor specifically for weight.I think they were institutional vegatable oil
jugs... Matt


Steve wrote:
>Is there any logic behind there being few (if any) <5 gal
>yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
>nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
>I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
>Any suggestions?
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 18:36:07 2012
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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I've found the same non-existent jugs. I'd like to keep a one- or two-gallon
jug for when I change fuel filters on my boat. I searched the Web high and
low.

- Bill Rabel
  Anacortes


On Apr 25, 2012, at 4:29 PM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:

> Is there any logic behind there being few (if any) <5 gal
> yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
> nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
> I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Apr 25 18:36:21 2012
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 19:34:04 -0500
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I haven't seen the original post yet, so I am replying to this reply.

I seem to remember seeing small yellow plastic fuel containers at 
Walmart. Since I don't use diesel, I haven't looked that closely.

Peace,
Pat

Thusly spake Brian Kemp, On 4/25/2012 7:14 PM:
> Steve - I just did a quick search at Amazon and see what you mean. 
> They have the red poly in smaller sizes, but not yellow. You could 
> always try to spray a red one with yellow plastic paint or wrap it in 
> yellow duct tape.
>
> Should you go metal, Justrite 7110200 and 7120200 are 1 and 2 gallon 
> options.
>
> Brian
>
> On 4/25/2012 4:29 PM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
>> Is there any logic behind there being few (if any)<5 gal
>> yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
>> nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
>> I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Steve Hammatt
>> Mount Vernon WA USA
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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> _______________________________________________
>
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-- 
Pat Horne, Owner, Horne Systems
(512) 797-7501 Voice		5026 FM 2001
Pat@HorneSystemsTx.com	Lockhart, TX 78644-4443
www.hornesystemstx.com
-- We support Habitat for Humanity - a hand UP, not a hand OUT --
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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On Apr 25, 2012, at 6:29 PM, "Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA"
<gsteve@hammatt.com> wrote:

> Is there any logic behind there being few (if any) <5 gal
> yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
> nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
> I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
> Any suggestions?

Rotopax make one. Spendy.
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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I have a really small (one or two gallon) one. Either came from Wal-Mart 
or Discount Auto.

On 4/26/2012 8:16 AM, David Scheidt wrote:
> On Apr 25, 2012, at 6:29 PM, "Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA"
> <gsteve@hammatt.com>  wrote:
>
>> Is there any logic behind there being few (if any)<5 gal
>> yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
>> nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
>> I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
>> Any suggestions?
> Rotopax make one. Spendy.
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It is spendy but available. Found this with google search. I am sure 
there are other options.

 
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00070082/k-G1764813?srccode=cii_23393768&cpncode=33-34222069-2&utm_source=channel_intelligence&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=AmazonProductAds

or

http://tinyurl.com/co6n7q4

tim





On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 PM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA 
wrote:

> Is there any logic behind there being few (if any) <5 gal
> yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
> nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
> I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 10:28:38 2012
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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I know I can spray paint red to yellow and/or simply
fill up to 50% volume to reduce the weight.  However,
I'd simply like to have an original 2 or 2.5 gal container
that doesn't take up the space of a 5 gal container nor
does it look like a spray-bomb paint job.
I would not think that that's too much to expect, but
apparently the manufacturers do.  I just got off the
phone with two manufacturers of gas cans (Blitz and
No-Spill) and they simply stated that there wasn't the
demand for smaller cans (for diesel).

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
-----Original Message----- 
From: Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 4:29 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can

Is there any logic behind there being few (if any) <5 gal
yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
Any suggestions?

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 11:29:22 2012
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Tim
I had found the steel containers, but why not plastic?
Think about all the seasoned citizens with their RV's
and car trailers being hauled behind Turbo Cummins
or other (un-named) diesels that find it difficult to
lift (and hold) to empty a 50 lb. plus can plus fuel.
Also, steel vs. plastic for long term storage without
corrosion.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
-----Original Message----- 
From: Tim
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 9:12 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can

It is spendy but available. Found this with google search. I am sure
there are other options.


http://www.zorotools.com/g/00070082/k-G1764813?srccode=cii_23393768&cpncode=33-34222069-2&utm_source=channel_intelligence&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=AmazonProductAds

or

http://tinyurl.com/co6n7q4

tim





On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 PM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA
wrote:

> Is there any logic behind there being few (if any) <5 gal
> yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
> nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
> I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
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Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:26:22 -0500
To: Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA <gsteve@hammatt.com>
Cc: Shop Talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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On Apr 26, 2012, at 12:29 PM, "Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA"
<gsteve@hammatt.com> wrote:

> Tim
> I had found the steel containers, but why not plastic?
> Think about all the seasoned citizens with their RV's
> and car trailers being hauled behind Turbo Cummins
> or other (un-named) diesels that find it difficult to
> lift (and hold) to empty a 50 lb. plus can plus fuel.

That's why they've got huge fuel tanks. And failing that, that's what there's
tow trucks for.


> Also, steel vs. plastic for long term storage without
> corrosion.

Who stores two gallons of diesel?  There are no diesel lawn mowers, leaf
blowers or chain saws. If you've got a diesel it's in something youre going to
use a lot of fuel for.



>
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
> -----Original Message----- From: Tim
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 9:12 AM
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
>
> It is spendy but available. Found this with google search. I am sure
> there are other options.
>
>
>
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00070082/k-G1764813?srccode=cii_23393768&cpncode=3
3-34222069-2&utm_source=channel_intelligence&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign
=AmazonProductAds
>
> or
>
> http://tinyurl.com/co6n7q4
>
> tim
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 PM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA
> wrote:
>
>> Is there any logic behind there being few (if any) <5 gal
>> yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
>> nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
>> I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Steve Hammatt
>> Mount Vernon WA USA
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Apr 26 20:16:46 2012
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From: "Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
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Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:02:58 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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Sorry, I don't know if this reply was sent with a bit of tongue in cheek
or not, but driving across Nebraska at night is something I'd like
to feel a bit more comfortable with when I have an extra 25 miles
of diesel fuel (it's not pretty when you run out with a diesel).
Also, I'm not happy having my rig and 10,000 lb. car trailer
towed by AAA.
Also, when you live in the country and not in the city like some
people, we do have diesel lawn mowers.
My needs center around wanting to keep an emergency supply
of fuel in the back of my open pickup (inside the lockable tool box)
as my backup supply.
So, if your comments were meant to be humorous, then so be
it.  If not, then you may consider that what works for you may
not work for others.
Thanks to all the others for your worthwhile comments
and suggestions.  They re appreciated.
Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
-----Original Message----- 
From: David Scheidt
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 5:26 PM
To: Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA
Cc: Tim ; Shop Talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can

On Apr 26, 2012, at 12:29 PM, "Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA" 
<gsteve@hammatt.com> wrote:
> Tim
> I had found the steel containers, but why not plastic?
> Think about all the seasoned citizens with their RV's
> and car trailers being hauled behind Turbo Cummins
> or other (un-named) diesels that find it difficult to
> lift (and hold) to empty a 50 lb. plus can plus fuel.

That's why they've got huge fuel tanks. And failing that, that's what 
there's tow trucks for.

> Also, steel vs. plastic for long term storage without
> corrosion.

Who stores two gallons of diesel?  There are no diesel lawn mowers, leaf 
blowers or chain saws. If you've got a diesel it's in something youre going 
to use a lot of fuel for.

>
> Steve Hammatt
> Mount Vernon WA USA
> -----Original Message----- From: Tim
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 9:12 AM
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
>
> It is spendy but available. Found this with google search. I am sure
> there are other options.
>
> http://www.zorotools.com/g/00070082/k-G1764813?srccode=cii_23393768&cpncode=33-34222069-2&utm_source=channel_intelligence&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=AmazonProductAds
> or
> http://tinyurl.com/co6n7q4
> tim
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 PM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA
> wrote:
>
>> Is there any logic behind there being few (if any) <5 gal
>> yellow diesel plastic fuel cans?  I have difficulty in lifting
>> nearly 50 lb. of fuel over the side of my RAM 2500 and
>> I would really like to stay away from the metal cans.
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Steve Hammatt
>> Mount Vernon WA USA 
_______________________________________________

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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 07:36:22 2012
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Howdy,

On Thu, 26 Apr 2012, David Scheidt wrote:
> Who stores two gallons of diesel?  There are no diesel lawn mowers, leaf 
> blowers or chain saws. If you've got a diesel it's in something youre 
> going to use a lot of fuel for.

This one.

I get that the OP wants this, but I'm totally fine with my 5 gal diesel 
cans for my tractor and motorhome.  The motorhome would only go about 16 
miles on 2 gallons of diesel anyway!  :-)

Mark

(of course, the reason I have a diesel can in the motorhome is primarily 
so that I can more easily prime the fuel pump by filling the filter with 
fuel when I change it.  Which seems to happen entirely too much in some 
random parking lot on the side of the road.)
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 07:52:03 2012
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I think the "want" of a smaller fuel can is the ease of picking it up. I 
am sure if he can find smaller cans, he will not haul only one can. 
Haulling two gallons of any fuel would pretty much defeat the purpose of 
hauling fuel in the first place.
tim
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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You have a diesel lawn mower?

I want one!

On 4/26/2012 10:02 PM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
> Sorry, I don't know if this reply was sent with a bit of tongue in cheek
> or not, but driving across Nebraska at night is something I'd like
> to feel a bit more comfortable with when I have an extra 25 miles
> of diesel fuel (it's not pretty when you run out with a diesel).
> Also, I'm not happy having my rig and 10,000 lb. car trailer
> towed by AAA.
> Also, when you live in the country and not in the city like some
> people, we do have diesel lawn mowers.
> My needs center around wanting to keep an emergency supply
> of fuel in the back of my open pickup (inside the lockable tool box)
> as my backup supply.
> So, if your comments were meant to be humorous, then so be
> it.  If not, then you may consider that what works for you may
> not work for others.
> Thanks to all the others for your worthwhile comments
> and suggestions.  They re appreciated.
_______________________________________________

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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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And there are some cars that use diesel. I have the small yellow can I 
have for just the reason the o.p. mentioned--it's hard to lift fifty 
pounds of fuel and get the flexible spout to stay in a car's filler 
while trying to hold fifty pounds waist-high just *so*.  Our cars will 
go about 100 miles on two gallons of fuel, and I don't want to use a AAA 
call for the times I think I can stretch the tank to 715 miles...and am 
wrong.

(Not like I've ever done that. That's just being prepared. Yeah.)

On 4/27/2012 9:44 AM, Tim wrote:
> I think the "want" of a smaller fuel can is the ease of picking it up. 
> I am sure if he can find smaller cans, he will not haul only one can. 
> Haulling two gallons of any fuel would pretty much defeat the purpose 
> of hauling fuel in the first place.
> tim
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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> it's hard to lift fifty 
> pounds of fuel 

Just a thought, have you considered using a small transfer pump instead?
It's not particularly quick, but one of those little 'clicker' Facet fuel
pumps works pretty good as a 12v transfer pump.  And it will do things like
pump from a permanently mounted tank that would be difficult otherwise.

BTW, 5 gallons of diesel fuel weighs less than 36 pounds.  Add 4 pounds for
a plastic can, and it's still only about 40 lbs.  It only seems like 50 :)

-- Randall  
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Apr 27 10:47:12 2012
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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There are currently around 3 dozen used diesel John Deere
Lawn Mowers listed for sale on eBay..........grin
My neighbor's JD mower is a diesel, my JD is only a two cylinder
lawn tractor (bummer!)

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
-----Original Message----- 
From: Scott
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 6:57 AM
To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can

You have a diesel lawn mower?

I want one!

On 4/26/2012 10:02 PM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA wrote:
> Sorry, I don't know if this reply was sent with a bit of tongue in cheek
> or not, but driving across Nebraska at night is something I'd like
> to feel a bit more comfortable with when I have an extra 25 miles
> of diesel fuel (it's not pretty when you run out with a diesel).
> Also, I'm not happy having my rig and 10,000 lb. car trailer
> towed by AAA.
> Also, when you live in the country and not in the city like some
> people, we do have diesel lawn mowers.
> My needs center around wanting to keep an emergency supply
> of fuel in the back of my open pickup (inside the lockable tool box)
> as my backup supply.
> So, if your comments were meant to be humorous, then so be
> it.  If not, then you may consider that what works for you may
> not work for others.
> Thanks to all the others for your worthwhile comments
> and suggestions.  They re appreciated.
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 9:57 AM, Scott <scott.hall.personal@gmail.com> wrote:
> You have a diesel lawn mower?
>
> I want one!

Kubota GR2120.  I don't have one, but I've had several generators with
the Kubota 3-cyl. Diesel engine.  All of them were bulletproof.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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To: Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA <gsteve@hammatt.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] 2 or 2.5 gal Diesel Fuel Can
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On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 9:02 PM, Steve Hammatt Mount Vernon WA USA
<gsteve@hammatt.com> wrote:
> Sorry, I don't know if this reply was sent with a bit of tongue in cheek
> or not, but driving across Nebraska at night is something I'd like
> to feel a bit more comfortable with when I have an extra 25 miles
> of diesel fuel (it's not pretty when you run out with a diesel).
> Also, I'm not happy having my rig and 10,000 lb. car trailer
> towed by AAA.
> Also, when you live in the country and not in the city like some
> people, we do have diesel lawn mowers.

You asked why there was no demand for small diesel cans.  I explained.
 It's economics. There simply aren't enough potential customers for
such a thing.  But everyone with a gas powered tool is a potential
customer for a small gas can.

> My needs center around wanting to keep an emergency supply
> of fuel in the back of my open pickup (inside the lockable tool box)
> as my backup supply.
> So, if your comments were meant to be humorous, then so be
> it. B If not, then you may consider that what works for you may
> not work for others.

You might consider my first post to thread was a pointer to someone
who makes 2.5 gallon plastic diesel containers.




--
David Scheidt
dmscheidt@gmail.com
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Subject: [Shop-talk] 2.5 gallon fuel containers
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This specifically says not for fuel, but it is HDPE.  It is only $7.60!  I
would just write "DIESEL" on it with a fat
sharpie.http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=75051 Here is another
non-colored container made of HDPE but it elaborates that it isn't suitable
for fuel due to some spill proof rating...It looks more sturdy than the
cheaper jug but it is $17.50  Looks like a typical pit fuel
container.http://www.shopthedude.com/prd.cl/SCR6221W
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 14:10:51 2012
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My ancient small air compressor has a plug to check the oil.  I haven't used
it a lot lately, and decided to check the oil level, which is fine,
but.........seems to me I used to have a small container of "compressor oil"
for refilling, but of course, can't find it.  Is this a special oil, or would
any "motor oil" of the proper weight do?

Mike
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 14:11:17 2012
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I use a 2.5 gallon red plastic gasoline jug and wrote 'diesel' on it 
with permanent marker. (I also have a 1 gallon red jug with fuel/oil 
mix labelled 'chain saw'.)

I doubt that painting a red plastic container yellow will last. How 
about wrapping the handle with yellow tape (in addition to writing on 
it with permanent marker)?

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 14:16:28 2012
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I am fairly sure that it is just 30 weight non-detergent motor oil.

I better check the level in my compressor this afternoon.

On another note, while working on one problem I accidently caused
another, as anyone who  tried to get to the forums, the mailman admin
page, the donate link or whatever during the last 12 hours or so would 
know.

The server is now responding, though the problems I was working on are 
still
unresolved.  I'd rather be at The Mitty!


mjb.
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From shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Apr 28 17:06:21 2012
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On my compressor it was simply motor oil.  I inquired about using Mobil 1
and they were OK with it.  I broke it in on Dino juice, the switched over to
synthetic, so I'm 99% sure your manufacturer would be OK with motor oil.
Call the manufacturer if you are concerned.



-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Sinclair
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 1:06 PM
To: Shop Talk
Subject: [Shop-talk] oil

My ancient small air compressor has a plug to check the oil.  I haven't used
it a lot lately, and decided to check the oil level, which is fine,
but.........seems to me I used to have a small container of "compressor oil"
for refilling, but of course, can't find it.  Is this a special oil, or
would
any "motor oil" of the proper weight do?

Mike
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From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oil
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The manual for my full-size compressor says to use "SAE-30 API CG/CD Heavy
Duty" oil.
The manual for a little compressor I have says the same, but also
"non-detergent".

I have always used that type of oil from Pep Boys, etc., never special
compressor oil.

Doug

On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 4:05 PM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722@comcast.net>wrote:

> My ancient small air compressor has a plug to check the oil.  I haven't
> used
> it a lot lately, and decided to check the oil level, which is fine,
> but.........seems to me I used to have a small container of "compressor
> oil"
> for refilling, but of course, can't find it.  Is this a special oil, or
> would
> any "motor oil" of the proper weight do?
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Subject: [Shop-talk] Fwd: [Spits] Oil Pump Priming-Maybe a dumb question
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---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Date: Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Spits] Oil Pump Priming-Maybe a dumb question
To: Daniel Parrott <parrotthead01@comcast.net>


Several years ago I did this with a drill. I think I used a wooden dowel or
something similar
to connect the drill to the pump.  BTW, you have to run the drill
COUNTERCLOCKWISE!

It wasn't so much a matter of priming the pump  (I think the impellers are
submerged in the sump),
but of ensuring that it actually worked.

Doug


On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 6:27 PM, Daniel Parrott
<parrotthead01@comcast.net>wrote:

> I'm getting ready to fire up the engine in my Spit 6 Project car and was
> about to use a drill to prime the oil pump.  I removed the dizzy and found
> the gear, still mated to the cam shaft.  I guess I need to remove the gear
> and lower shaft to get to the upper end of the oil pump.  True?  Is there a
> special Triumph-specific oil pump priming tool to attach to the oil pump?
>
>
>
> Making sure I don't make a dumb mistake. (again)
>
>
>
> Dan Parrott
>
> Savannah, Georgia
>
> 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ", AKA "Rat"
>
> 1973/1978 Spit Six "Joseph"
>
> 1957 Chevy Belair "Mayflower"
> _______________________________________________
>
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> The manual for my full-size compressor says to use "SAE-30 
> API CG/CD Heavy
> Duty" oil.
> The manual for a little compressor I have says the same, but also
> "non-detergent".

That's curious.  I was under the impression that API standards CD and CG
required detergents.

Anyway, my full-size compressor says to use "CE or better" but then warns
that "multi-viscosity oils will shorten compressor life".

A little poking around on IR's web site reveals that they are so proud of
their synthetic compressor oil that they double the warranty on the
compressor if you use it.

http://tinyurl.com/7b6lfjn

-- Randall  
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] oil
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I once read some compressor manual that said to avoid multi-viscosity or
detergent oils (one or the other, but I forget which) because they would
cause carbon deposits to build up on the reed valves.  That sounded a bit
odd to me, since there is no combustion happening...

Doug

On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 9:46 PM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > The manual for my full-size compressor says to use "SAE-30
> > API CG/CD Heavy
> > Duty" oil.
> > The manual for a little compressor I have says the same, but also
> > "non-detergent".
>
> That's curious.  I was under the impression that API standards CD and CG
> required detergents.
>
> Anyway, my full-size compressor says to use "CE or better" but then warns
> that "multi-viscosity oils will shorten compressor life".
>
> A little poking around on IR's web site reveals that they are so proud of
> their synthetic compressor oil that they double the warranty on the
> compressor if you use it.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/7b6lfjn
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Fwd: [Spits] Oil Pump Priming-Maybe a dumb question
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Several years ago I attempted to "pre-oil' my newly rebuilt TR 4 engine by
removing the distributor gear and fabricating a rod to drive the oil pump.
Ended up covering myself in oil.   Apparently the oil is pumped up  from the
pump to the drive gear;  if a drive rod to the pump is of a smaller diameter
than the gear drive shaft the oil will shoot straight up into your face.
The solution was to locate an old drive gear and remove the shaft from the
gear and use just the shaft.   Once I figured that out it worked great.


Bob
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