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From: Miq Millman <miq@vista.hevanet.com>
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 01:01:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Oletrucks] Monthly Reminder
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----------------------------------------


	Monthly re-welcome to oletrucks.

This message is sent out automatically on the first of each month.

You are a member of the oletrucks mailing list.  This list is run via 
majordomo, a list management tool.  It is overseen by Miq Millman, who
can be reached at miq@bigllama.com, or oletrucks-owner@autox.team.net

Messages to the list should be sent to:

oletrucks@autox.team.net

The messages need to follow the following rules to be accepted:

1]	plain ascii text
2]	no MIME attachments
3]	no html formatting
4]	no images
5]	sent from the address you receive the list mail at
6]      remove the tagline at the bottom of the original if responding


Why?  MIME and HTML allow for the unscrupulous to include links to web
pages that have java or cgi applets on them which could be caused to be
run on your computer and do damage similar to a virus.  Keeping the list
closed prevents spammers from getting their unwanted messages through.

Also remember that all subscription requests are handled by human
intervention, so getting on the list is not instantaneous (though nearly so
if you ask my wife).

Postings of items personally for sale are acceptable, however referrals to
auctions on e*ay are not allowed.  If you are the seller of the item, you
can send a pointer to the list that is not generated from their site.

Spam is not tollerated in any form.  All violators will be removed from the
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As you should note at the bottom of every message to the list, the mailing 
list is run via Mailman now.  Go to 

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/oletrucks

-- 
__
Miq Millman   miq@bigllama.com  
Tualatin, OR
_______________________________________________

Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan  2 22:10:45 2013
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Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 21:52:36 -0800 (PST)
From: mark <ccpanel@yahoo.com>
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net, Old_ChevroletGMCTrucks@yahoogroups.com,
	oldcoetrucks@yahoogroups.com, old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Oletrucks] Factory manuals
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Errors-To: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net

found rockauto has re-pop manuals of all kinds for our trucks-HIGHLY reccomended reading
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1487425,pgname,Literature
_______________________________________________

Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jan  3 18:20:47 2013
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To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
From: Emory Hodges <eehodges@aol.com>
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Subject: [Oletrucks] 1948 engine for sale
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Happy New Year list!

Last year I replaced my tired but running 216 with a newer '54 235. I'm
selling the 216. It is on Craigslist PostingID:3499088063 or email for pics or
more info.
I also have the original 3/4 ton 3 speed transmission and drive shafts.

Likely need to pick up - located in Simpsonville, SC (near Greenville).

If it doesn't sell complete, I may part out - email if you need engine parts.

Emory Hodges
EEHodges@aol.com
_______________________________________________

Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 16 17:50:16 2013
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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 16:42:03 -0800
From: Ric McAnulty <ric_mcanulty@yahoo.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130107
	Thunderbird/17.0.2
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [Oletrucks] Forward Thinking
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Well, not sure what it's like where the rest of you are, but high today 
of 28, low overnight about 12 here in Sparks, NV. Fortunately no snow.
With that I'm thinking that there's probably not a lot of work being 
done with most of our trucks right now, at least not mine, so I'm trying to
     put together thoughts on what I want to do and what it might cost. 
Hoping to tap into the vast knowledge bank that IO know is out there

Particulars:  1950 Chevy, 3100, 5 window, 235 w/granny 4 speed, original 
torque tube and rear end
     Electronic ignition, front disc brakes, dual carbs, split exhaust, 
Cab currently in primer with no bed, running 18 months ago when it got 
stored.

So thoughts:  Need to replace the radiator, it's been repaired twice, 
and is leaking again.
                                 Question:  2 or 3 core Aluminum or 
?????  Recommendations?

                     Thinking about pulling the rear cab fuel tank and 
placing a new tank in the bed frame since there currently is no bed.
                                 Again suggestions/ recommendations 
Costs ???  Good idea / bad idea

                     With the gas tank gone from the cab, would want to 
replace bench seat or re-mount it farther back.
                                 More suggestions,  type of seats? from 
what car / truck,  mounting ideas, guess on costs?

I'd be doing all the work with the help of a buddy, with limited access 
to welding capabilities, so that might limit what I can ultimately do.

I'd appreciate everybodies thoughts, suggestions etc so I can start 
planning for spring thaw.

Thanks

Ric
_______________________________________________

Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 07:33:22 2013
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From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 08:31:40 -0600
Subject: [Oletrucks] forward thinking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi guys

just found this forum... I've been on shop-talk for years... guess I need to
get out more, eh ?

Saw Ric's post on his Chevy truck and planned changes and thought I might add
something for him..
I've got a '53 Ford F-100 I've been working on for years and done a lot of the
upgrades that most old truck guys do... new ifs, new rear end, disc brakes,
tank move, etc and have tried to document it all on my site
jniolon.classicpickup.com   All the articles are in the frame on the left side
of the page

Ric
AFA the tank move to the rear... it's an easy task.  I'm not sure of your
frame width but the f-100 of that era have around 28.5 width and a mid 60's
mustang/cougar tank fits perfect... as well as some other junk yard finds.
You'll have to fab or buy a patch panel for the old gas filler hole in the
cab... but if Chevys are like Fords those are available aftermarket.... here's
a link to what I did...

jniolon.classicpickup.com/mustangtank/newmustangtank.htm

AFA the seats.. I'm assuming you've got around 60" between doors and most any
bench seat from any Chevy or Ford trucks till they went and got all fancy will
fit... I've got a bench from a mid 70's Chevy truck now but am looking for
some nice leather takeouts with seatbelts and all included.  Keep in mind that
car seats don't usually work well... they sit too low and lean back too far...
truck seats are more verticle... mounting isn't usually a problem with a
little fab work and some tubing.. again a link

jniolon.classicpickup.com/benchseats/benchseats.html

What you do all depends on what you want from the truck... original ??  or
streeted ???
a lot.. I mean A LOT of after market stuff is available for your truck...
don't know if you've found the magazines...   Classic Truck  and Custom and
Classic trucks  are available on the news stands and bookstores and offer a
wealth of info, vendors, how tos and such...

email me if you want any other info I might offer...  always glad to help
another sufferer of our addiction

later
john
_______________________________________________

Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 18 13:38:43 2013
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Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 12:32:13 -0800 (PST)
From: mark <ccpanel@yahoo.com>
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [Oletrucks]  forward thinking
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net

I forget original post but in my world-I try to figure out my end goal-go
fast, turn corners, cruise, parades, show trailer?

I start out with basics.
get disc brake conversion on your OEM straight axle.
get upgraded roller bearings while in there and also refresh your kingpins and
all front spring bushings.

as far as seat-if you are looking for inches-not realll gonna find more than
about 1-2 and its some trouble to swap just for 1-2" if that.
also keep in mind-your seat riser is a structural part of the cab-it keeps the
sagging from happening.
if removed-weld in a brace underneath before removing to change seat mounting
style.

personally-I love having a spare tire hanging under the truck where its not in
the way and easy to get to if the bed is covered or ...

I get teh digest version but you should be able to see my email-email me and I
will send you my phone number.
call me and I will talk your ear off.
oh-qualifications? built too many of this body style to count in every
configuration you can think of.
also have 30+ AD trucks in my stash... and panels and suburbans...
Mark in nor-cal

Today's Topics:

   1. forward thinking (John Niolon)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 08:31:40 -0600
From: "John Niolon" <jniolon@att.net>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Oletrucks] forward thinking

Hi guys

just found this forum... I've been on shop-talk for years... guess I need to
get out more, eh ?

Saw Ric's post on his Chevy truck and planned changes and thought I might add
something for him..
I've got a '53 Ford F-100 I've been working on for years and done a lot of
the
upgrades that most old truck guys do... new ifs, new rear end, disc brakes,
tank move, etc and have tried to document it all on my site
jniolon.classicpickup.com   All the articles are in the frame on the left
side
of the page

Ric
AFA the tank move to the rear... it's an easy task.  I'm not sure of your
frame width but the f-100 of that era have around 28.5 width and a mid 60's
mustang/cougar tank fits perfect... as well as some other junk yard finds.
You'll have to fab or buy a patch panel for the old gas filler hole in the
cab... but if Chevys are like Fords those are available aftermarket....
here's
a link to what I did...

jniolon.classicpickup.com/mustangtank/newmustangtank.htm

AFA the seats.. I'm assuming you've got around 60" between doors and most any
bench seat from any Chevy or Ford trucks till they went and got all fancy
will
fit... I've got a bench from a mid 70's Chevy truck now but am looking for
some nice leather takeouts with seatbelts and all included.  Keep in mind
that
car seats don't usually work well... they sit too low and lean back too
far...
truck seats are more verticle... mounting isn't usually a problem with a
little fab work and some tubing.. again a link

jniolon.classicpickup.com/benchseats/benchseats.html

What you do all depends on what you want from the truck... original ??  or
streeted ???
a lot.. I mean A LOT of after market stuff is available for your truck...
don't know if you've found the magazines...   Classic Truck  and Custom and
Classic trucks  are available on the news stands and bookstores and offer a
wealth of info, vendors, how tos and such...

email me if you want any other info I might offer...  always glad to help
another sufferer of our addiction

later
john


------------------------------

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***************************************
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Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2013 06:57:24 -0800 (PST)
From: mark <ccpanel@yahoo.com>
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net, oldcoetrucks@yahoogroups.com,
	Old_ChevroletGMCTrucks@yahoogroups.com, old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Oletrucks] Jim Carter's 2013 After Inventory Sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net

	      Share











      
    
  


      


  
  


Jim Carter's 2013 Inventory
Sale


  
 
  
  





Hurry sale ends

January 31,
2013!



 




 




  
  


  

 
  






  


  

  


  
  
  
  
  


  





 




  


  



Jim Carter's
2013
Inventory Sale



 




	    
	      1508 East 23 street

	      
	      
		independence,
	      
	       64055

	      United States
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Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 15:33:29 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] forward thinking
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Thanks for 13 gal. I have fuel injected 5.7 with 4l60e empty hoping to get
17~20 mph. You are correct that any kind of working truck would defiantly
need more capacity.

Jim
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From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jan 23 18:58:55 2013
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From: "Durwood B. Darbin" <dhckdkcsk@hotmail.com>
To: Oletrucks list <oletrucks@autox.team.net>, yahoo group
	<old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>, Old Chevy Suburban list
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Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 18:53:02 -0700
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Subject: [Oletrucks] 261 engine near greeley
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Hello ole truckers. I have located another 261 engine in a truck at a junkyard
near Greeley Colorado.  If you want it, I will direct you to the exact vehicle
but you have to take it out.  I can be there for moral support but I can't
help cuz I'm still healing from rotator cuff repair.  If you want it then ping
me at dhckdkcsk (at) hotmail.com and put 'Greeley 261' in the subject line.
MMMKay??  The last one cost me $250 and no core charge but you would have to
make the deal, just don't tell the owner that it is a 261.  ;-)

Durwood @ TESRWNN

51 Chevy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window

52 Burb

54 Jimmy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window
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From: Rick Kremer <kremerrak@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] 261 engine near greeley
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Durwood,

Way to look out for your fellow truckers.  Nice Job!  I scored a 261 off
craigslist a few years back and am just waiting for the right truck to drop it
into.  With a camaro t5 behind it, it should be alot of fun to drive.

Rick



-----Original Message-----
From: Durwood B. Darbin <dhckdkcsk@hotmail.com>
To: Oletrucks list <oletrucks@autox.team.net>; yahoo group
<old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>; Old Chevy Suburban list
<old-burb-club@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wed, Jan 23, 2013 8:54 pm
Subject: [Oletrucks] 261 engine near greeley


Hello ole truckers. I have located another 261 engine in a truck at a
junkyard
ear Greeley Colorado.  If you want it, I will direct you to the exact vehicle
ut you have to take it out.  I can be there for moral support but I can't
elp cuz I'm still healing from rotator cuff repair.  If you want it then ping
e at dhckdkcsk (at) hotmail.com and put 'Greeley 261' in the subject line.
MMKay??  The last one cost me $250 and no core charge but you would have to
ake the deal, just don't tell the owner that it is a 261.  ;-)
Durwood @ TESRWNN
51 Chevy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window
52 Burb
54 Jimmy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window
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Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] 261 engine near greeley
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Errors-To: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net

FWIW I kick myself a little bit for not buying a good 261 for $200 when I was
deciding what to do with my 1959 3200.  I ended up rebuilding a 1962 235 car
engine.  That was about 2006.  I have to say that, despite kicking myself for
being too lazy to drive 50miles to pick up the engine, my 235 is AWESOME.
Strong and dependable.  What an amazing industrial machine.  I really think
the 6cyl gas engines of its generation were beautiful and historic and I'm
proud to drive around with it.    Next truck I will try and utilize a 261 but
if anyone ever tries to get my 235 they are going to have to pry it out of my
cold dead claws!






On Jan 24, 2013, at 6:50 AM, Rick Kremer <kremerrak@aol.com> wrote:

> Durwood,
>
> Way to look out for your fellow truckers.  Nice Job!  I scored a 261 off
> craigslist a few years back and am just waiting for the right truck to drop
it
> into.  With a camaro t5 behind it, it should be alot of fun to drive.
>
> Rick
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Durwood B. Darbin <dhckdkcsk@hotmail.com>
> To: Oletrucks list <oletrucks@autox.team.net>; yahoo group
> <old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com>; Old Chevy Suburban list
> <old-burb-club@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wed, Jan 23, 2013 8:54 pm
> Subject: [Oletrucks] 261 engine near greeley
>
>
> Hello ole truckers. I have located another 261 engine in a truck at a
> junkyard
> ear Greeley Colorado.  If you want it, I will direct you to the exact
vehicle
> ut you have to take it out.  I can be there for moral support but I can't
> elp cuz I'm still healing from rotator cuff repair.  If you want it then
ping
> e at dhckdkcsk (at) hotmail.com and put 'Greeley 261' in the subject line.
> MMKay??  The last one cost me $250 and no core charge but you would have to
> ake the deal, just don't tell the owner that it is a 261.  ;-)
> Durwood @ TESRWNN
> 51 Chevy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window
> 52 Burb
> 54 Jimmy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window
> ______________________________________________
> Oletrucks@autox.team.net
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Oletrucks@autox.team.net
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/oletrucks/jonasthaler@jonasthaler.com
_______________________________________________

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From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 25 13:40:39 2013
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From: James Wolford <jgwolford@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] Bed
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I have a 1957 Task Force pickup or 1957 3100 step side.  I am getting ready to
disassemble the bed and have some questions about the procedure.  Is it best
to take the bed sides and front bed panel off first and then remove the bed
strips with wood.

When reassembling do you start with the sides and front and do the wood last?
_______________________________________________

Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 25 13:42:05 2013
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To: Oletrucks@autox.team.net
From: James Wolford <jgwolford@aol.com>
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Subject: [Oletrucks] Fwd: Bed
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Errors-To: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a 1957 Task Force pickup or 1957 3100 step side.  I am getting ready to
disassemble the bed and have some questions about the procedure.  Is it best
to take the bed sides and front bed panel off first and then remove the bed
strips with wood.

When reassembling do you start with the sides and front and do the wood last?

Thanks,

Jim
_______________________________________________

Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 25 13:58:25 2013
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From: GALE GORMAN <gale_gorman@me.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 14:46:35 -0600
References: <8CFC9522900B270-17D0-16DCB@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CFC95260F83E13-17D0-16E61@Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>
To: James Wolford <jgwolford@aol.com>
Cc: Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] Bed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net

Wood comes out first and goes in last. I repair and paint each piece individually. The fenders are impossible to spray a good finish up under the roll on the bed sides.

Gale Gorman
Houston
1954 3100
1967 C20 stepside

On Jan 25, 2013, at 2:33 PM, James Wolford <jgwolford@aol.com> wrote:

I have a 1957 Task Force pickup or 1957 3100 step side.  I am getting ready to
disassemble the bed and have some questions about the procedure.  Is it best
to take the bed sides and front bed panel off first and then remove the bed
strips with wood.

When reassembling do you start with the sides and front and do the wood last?

Thanks,

Jim
_______________________________________________

Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

Oletrucks@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

From oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jan 25 18:21:52 2013
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Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 20:10:50 -0500
From: K Ohlgren <kohlgren@gmail.com>
To: Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Cc: James Wolford <jgwolford@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] Bed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net

the bed sides are welded to the rear x-member, short welds that need to be
cut if your separating the rear sill from the bed. i sandblasted my bed and
did not remove the front panel from the sides. i shortened my bed and cut
the rear sill and stake pockets off the bed. when we assembled it i used
hidden fasteners for the bed rails, basically just bolted the bed x-members
down and routed the back of my trex bed wood to hide the big bolts.

we had the fenders on before we stuck the bed on my truck, set the bed onto
the bed x-members and then bolted the trex and bed strips in. links to bed
pics

bed assembley<http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn255/_ogre/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&current=0719001720.jpg>
  bed on truck<http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn255/_ogre/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&current=0720001237.jpg>
  front of bed<[IMG]http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn255/_ogre/Mobile%20Uploads/0719001148a.jpg[/IMG]>

On Fri, Jan 25, 2013 at 3:46 PM, GALE GORMAN <gale_gorman@me.com> wrote:

> Wood comes out first and goes in last. I repair and paint each piece
> individually. The fenders are impossible to spray a good finish up under
> the roll on the bed sides.
>
> Gale Gorman
> Houston
> 1954 3100
> 1967 C20 stepside
>
> On Jan 25, 2013, at 2:33 PM, James Wolford <jgwolford@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I have a 1957 Task Force pickup or 1957 3100 step side.  I am getting
> ready to
> disassemble the bed and have some questions about the procedure.  Is it
> best
> to take the bed sides and front bed panel off first and then remove the bed
> strips with wood.
>
> When reassembling do you start with the sides and front and do the wood
> last?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> _______________________________________________
>
> Oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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> Oletrucks@autox.team.net
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