From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 11:57:23 1999 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Rick Feibusch) To: mini-list@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 10:55:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Wheels & Wings Canceled Dear British Car Meet Enthusiasts, I am sorry to have to inform you that the British Wheels & Wings get together at the Santa Monica Museum of Flying has been canceled. To be blunt, the City of Santa Monica has set so many fees and requirements on the organizers and the vendors and the attorneys for the Museum's parent company had so many concerns and demands that we would have been putting on a totally different event than what we had planned. While we tried to work things out, time was slipping away (that is why we changed the date from April to June). Sad to say, we are pretty set in the way we like to do things and the Museum folks had their reasons and the city of Santa Monica are a bunch of greedy bastards . . . . . . . . . So, we'll keep in touch and see you in September in Palo Alto and October at Woodly Park and let you know about anything British car oriented in California. Cheers, Rick Feibusch Journalist/Appraiser Venice, CA 310-392-6605 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 14:44:47 1999 From: Zzzenster@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 16:41:45 EST Subject: 1964 plus 4, 4 seater for sale in NJ. burgundy it is with GREAT regret that i "announce" that my 1964 plus 4, 4 seater, full weather gear, burgundy is now for sale.... i love it but just don't have the time to give it the care it needs and deserves. if anyone knows anyone interested, please send them my way, or point them to my website with lots of photos of the car... it's chassis 5565 by the way, and in great shape. very little rust, no rot that we know of, very solid, TR-4 engine running great now that i had all fluids flushed and renewed, carbs totally rebuilt, new starter, new battery, etc. etc. just some tender care and general clean up. paint a bit crackly under the surface but no body damage at all. The seats are Austin Healey buckets from about the same year. Walter O'Brien's Morgan Pix Page walter o'brien po box 89 whitehouse station, nj 08889 908-534-5488 zzzenster@aol.com PS: anybody who sends me a buyer will be compensated for the help!! From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 17:57:03 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 19:56:03 -0500 Subject: More HELP! Hi Folks, Get used to this, I gonna need your help in order to get my Morgan on the road THIS season. My first box of bits arrived today - I need someone to tell me where to route the Speedo cable (once it comes out the back of the speedo) and to tell me where the pick up is on my 1958 +4 - is it on the gearbox? Also, I need the route for the handbrake cable, does it pass under the chassis? Do I need clips to stop it from dragging on the ground? Or is there ome other way that it goes. Lastly, (for now) the Hand brake cable has a nipple that will require soldering in place - I guess when I figure how long it needs to be ( I hate these 'one sixe fits all' parts), anyway if you replaced your hand brake cable on a Moss box - your input would be appreciated. Many thanks, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 18:27:10 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 19:39:34 -0500 Subject: SOL's Morgan Web page If anyone's interested, I've finally gotten around to doing some work on the Morgan Web page. A couple of new interesting articles, and a bunch of updates. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 20:53:53 1999 From: Bob Nogueira To: Jeff Webster , Date: Thu, 01 Apr 99 21:48:31 -0500 Subject: Re: More HELP! -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- -------- REPLY, Original message follows -------- > Lastly, (for now) the Hand brake cable has a nipple that will require > soldering in place - I guess when I figure how long it needs to be ( I hate > these 'one sixe fits all' parts), anyway if you replaced your hand brake > cable on a Moss box - your input would be appreciated. > > Many thanks, > > Jeff -------- REPLY, End of original message -------- Jeff The route of my cable is handle, through the transmission bolt , over the left ear of the transmission mount , through the driveshaft tunnel to the rear axle, the cable stays on top of all cross members . The soldering of the cable to the nipple requires a special technique, If you simply solder it to the nipple it will pull out the first time you use the hand brake. Look at the nipple and you will notice that the hole is not the same size on both ends, it is actually cone shaped, Thread the cable into the small end and out the large end . Pull it out far enough so you can take the stands of the cable ( one by one ) and fold them back over so they now re-enter the big end of the hole. They will only fit part way through the hole since the hole tapers down. Once you have all the wires folded over solder then from the big end. This method effectively causes the cable to be held tighter to the nipple the harder it is pulled , The solder is simply holding the strands of cable in place and the double thickness of the cable trying to get though a hole takes the strain . Once you have finished pick up the transmission bolt that you forgot to put on the cable before soldering the nipple on and throw it across the room,. Remove the nibble, put the bolt on the cable and resolder. ( each of the 4 times I have put a new cable on I have forgotten to put on the bolt ) Bob Nogueira From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 1 22:57:11 1999 From: Oddcarnut@aol.com To: jblair@exis.net, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 22:56:08 EST Subject: Re: SOL's Morgan Web page John, Thanks for your continued efforts. It's a great resource which I truly appreciate. Cheers, Ken Payne PS How is the 97 doing?? I hope you're making more progress than I am on the Monte! From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 3 12:11:41 1999 From: don To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 11:17:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: Morgan magazines Hello Morgan folks: I have recently gone thru my magazine collection and am disposing of some duplicates. I have: Road & Track: February 1955, with road test of Morgan +4 June 1957, with road test of Morgan 4/4 September 1959, with road test of Morgan +4 I would like $24 for all three and I will pay postage. Don Scott 4281 Scott Way Calistoga, CA 94515 Sincerely, Don Scott 707-942-0546 RetroMobilia w/ original advertising artwork featuring: Riley 1.5, '62 Buick, '91 Miata Special Edition, & MG TF, & 215 V8 Check it out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/2508/ From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 12:31:22 1999 From: Jane & Elton Wright To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 04 Apr 1999 14:29:50 -0400 Subject: tyres/uprights Greetings all, I am in the midst of stripping the pannels off of my '67 tourer to be refinished and have noticed that the tyres (tires) are rubbing their inside edges on the uprights. Not much mind you, but enough to make a scuffed mark on the sidewall. I have wire wheels I believe they are 4.5 J 15 with 165-15 tyres. I have had other Morgans, but this is my first wire wheel Morgan (except for an F-type). Is this normal? Are my hubs worn, or the wheels worn? What gives? Thanks in advance. Elton Elton & Jane Wright voice: 540-389-6573 Salem, VA, USA email: delicate@rev.net 1967 Morgan Plus Four Tourer 1954 Morris Minor From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 13:35:10 1999 From: "Greg Solow" To: "Jane & Elton Wright" , Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 12:35:03 -0700 Subject: Re: tyres/uprights The wheels may have been rebuilt in the past and the offset may have been inadvertently changed, or more likely, the tires have a wider carcass than older 165 x 15 tires. We have found that the Dunlop sp 20 tires that are one of the only readily available and reasonably priced 165 x 15s currently on the market are wider than the older sp 4s or any of the perrillis, michelins, etc. of the past. We have available wire wheel spacers that were developed for racing that can help this problem. They will move the wheel out from the centerline of the car about 3/16 of an inch. This should stop the rubbing problem. The width of this space is the most that the wheel can be spaced out on the hub and still have sufficient thread engagement for the knock off to hold the wheel on safely with a Dunlop brand wire wheel. Some of the Dayton wire wheels appear to have a thicker hub that reduces the number of turns of thread engagement of the knock off by one full turn. These wheels can not be used with the spacers as the knock off will then only have 1/2 turn thread engagement. Regards, Greg Solow -----Original Message----- From: Jane & Elton Wright To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sunday, April 04, 1999 11:42 AM Subject: tyres/uprights >Greetings all, > >I am in the midst of stripping the pannels off of my '67 tourer to be >refinished and have noticed that the tyres (tires) are rubbing their inside >edges on the uprights. Not much mind you, but enough to make a scuffed >mark on the sidewall. I have wire wheels I believe they are 4.5 J 15 with >165-15 tyres. I have had other Morgans, but this is my first wire wheel >Morgan (except for an F-type). Is this normal? Are my hubs worn, or the >wheels worn? What gives? Thanks in advance. > >Elton > >Elton & Jane Wright voice: 540-389-6573 >Salem, VA, USA email: delicate@rev.net >1967 Morgan Plus Four Tourer 1954 Morris Minor > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 15:45:49 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: "Linda & Nelson Warner" Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 17:44:54 -0400 Subject: RE: HandBrake & Speedo cable routing etc. Thanks Nelson, It appears that I may have a couple of problems here. Firstly, the brake cable I was sent by Morgan spares seems to be too short - (well the inner cable is by about two inches) Did the cable lengths differ? Secondly, there must be a return spring missing from somewhere. There doesn't appear to be anything to reset the brake shoes once the handbrake has been released. Any ideas? On the Speedo, I can see where it goes but I think there is something missing where it attaches to the gearbox as I have nothing to screw into on that end. On other subjects. The floor boards - should they be cauked in place? Mine were covered in what looks like hard glazing putty - is this right? Also, do you know what oil is used in the gearbox and back axle - is it hypoid 90? For both? All help appreciated Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 16:34:46 1999 From: Tamzen Cannoy To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 15:34:28 -0700 Subject: Re: Malvern Link Signs Yup, and quite pretty they are too. Jon and I were just there on Wednesday and had to make sure we got a shot of the sign! The factory tour was great too. Millions of dollars of lovely cars in each stage of building. Maybe someone should suggest to the town fathers that they make the signs available for sale at the factory! Tamzen '67 +4 At 3:41 AM -0700 3/25/99, Hodgkiss, Ben wrote: >Stainless steel signs have recently been erected on the outskirts of every >part of Malvern. The ones for Malvern Link depict our favourite car, and >will make an excellent photo opportunity for visitors. I haven't had a close >look at them but I think that souvenir hunters will need to be very well >equipped! > >Regards > >Ben > >1972 4/4 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 4 22:08:19 1999 From: "Greg Solow" To: "Jeff Webster" , Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 21:08:49 -0700 Subject: Re: HandBrake & Speedo cable routing etc. Dear Jeff, All of the hand brake cables are the same length. The cable should be routed over the crossmember at the back of the trans. but UNDER the left trans. mount leg. Ie between the body of the trans. and the end of the mount ear. The calbe should then be plenty long . The brake shoes are pulled off by the shoe return springs that are inside the brake drum when the hand brake is released. There is no other return spring nor is one necessary. There is supposed to be one cable clamp that holds the cable to the left battery floor as it comes out of the drive shaft tunnel and before it reaches the attachment on the rear axil. The cable passes over all the crossmembers. Regards, Greg Solow -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Webster To: Linda & Nelson Warner Cc: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sunday, April 04, 1999 2:55 PM Subject: RE: HandBrake & Speedo cable routing etc. >Thanks Nelson, >It appears that I may have a couple of problems here. Firstly, the brake >cable I was sent by Morgan spares seems to be too short - (well the inner >cable is by about two inches) Did the cable lengths differ? Secondly, there >must be a return spring missing from somewhere. There doesn't appear to be >anything to reset the brake shoes once the handbrake has been released. Any >ideas? >On the Speedo, I can see where it goes but I think there is something >missing where it attaches to the gearbox as I have nothing to screw into on >that end. >On other subjects. The floor boards - should they be cauked in place? Mine >were covered in what looks like hard glazing putty - is this right? >Also, do you know what oil is used in the gearbox and back axle - is it >hypoid 90? For both? > >All help appreciated > >Jeff > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 03:20:09 1999 From: "Gary Moles" To: "morgans" Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 21:12:18 +1200 Subject: Australia contact To fellow Anzacs I have been contacted by a couple moving from Hong Kong to Sydney and wanting to buy a Plus 8. Is there any reputable dealer in Sydney whom I could put them in touch with? Is there a Morgan Club contact in Sydney who may be able to help? Best regards to all. Gary Moles From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 13:04:14 1999 From: "Arlo J. Levisen" To: Morgan Mailing List Date: Mon, 05 Apr 1999 13:14:50 +0300 Subject: Information DFLer's: Classic Motorbooks of Osceola, WI., @ (800) 826-6600 is offering two (2) books at a discount that may be of interest: a) The Morgan: the Art of Selling a Unique Sports Car by Ken Hill Catalog #124163AP @ $14.98 (regularily @ $29.95) b) The A-Z of Classic Convertibles by Graham Robson Catalog #123961A @ $8.98 (regularily @ $16.99) The latter book has a picture of a Morgan Plus 8 on the cover. This sale is good through May 15, 1999. I have a copy of the second book and it is worth this price certainly. I have never seen this particular Ken Hill book, but I have another by him. I am sure this one is well worth this price as well. Then, on page 129 of the current May, 1999, issue of the Automobile magazine is found a drawing of a Morgan trike by Dave Deal. You may not know who he is - but I will bet you have seen his automotive art someplace sometime. A humorous depiction! Later, Arlo Levisen, Revillo, South Dakota '87 Plus 8 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 14:16:47 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: alevisen@gdhscats.org, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 13:15:34 -0700 Subject: RE: Information Arlo, The Ken Hill book is the history of Morgans as told through theri advertising through the years, I found it very facinating. Usually in a history, you see what the author's opinion is. In this book you get to see the image that the factory was trying to project. Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: Arlo J. Levisen [SMTP:alevisen@gdhscats.org] > Sent: Monday, April 05, 1999 3:15 AM > To: Morgan Mailing List > Subject: Information > > DFLer's: > > Classic Motorbooks of Osceola, WI., @ (800) 826-6600 is offering two (2) > books at a discount that may be of interest: > > a) The Morgan: the Art of Selling a Unique Sports Car by Ken Hill > > Catalog #124163AP @ $14.98 (regularily @ $29.95) > > > b) The A-Z of Classic Convertibles by Graham Robson > > Catalog #123961A @ $8.98 (regularily @ $16.99) > > The latter book has a picture of a Morgan Plus 8 on the cover. > > This sale is good through May 15, 1999. > > I have a copy of the second book and it is worth this price certainly. > I have never seen this particular Ken Hill book, but I have another by > him. I am sure this one is well worth this price as well. > > Then, on page 129 of the current May, 1999, issue of the Automobile > magazine is found a drawing of a Morgan trike by Dave Deal. You may not > know who he is - but I will bet you have seen his automotive art > someplace sometime. A humorous depiction! > > Later, > > Arlo Levisen, Revillo, South Dakota '87 Plus 8 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 16:31:00 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: "'Arlo J. Levisen'" Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 15:45:08 -0400 Subject: RE: Information Arlo, I've seen the first book you mention. As I recall, it is merely a collection of advertisements by Morgan over the years. To say that I was underwhelmed by the book would be an understatement: unless you are into the history of advertising, it is of little interest. BTW, we drove past your place last Friday. Well, sort of. Drove on I-29 from KC to the US-Canadian border. Managed to drive from Wichita, KS to Pinawa, MB in 18 hours in a rental 99 Ford Taurus. Actually, left Las Vegas on Wednesday morning at 8:30 AM and got as far as Flagstaff where I-40 was closed due to strong winds. Had a foot of snow in Flagstaff next morning but managed to outdrive the storm and made it to Wichita, KS by midnight that day. Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 Pinawa, MB > ---------- > From: Arlo J. Levisen[SMTP:alevisen@gdhscats.org] > Reply To: Arlo J. Levisen > Sent: Monday, April 05, 1999 5:14 AM > To: Morgan Mailing List > Subject: Information > > DFLer's: > > Classic Motorbooks of Osceola, WI., @ (800) 826-6600 is offering two (2) > books at a discount that may be of interest: > > a) The Morgan: the Art of Selling a Unique Sports Car by Ken Hill > > Catalog #124163AP @ $14.98 (regularily @ $29.95) > > > b) The A-Z of Classic Convertibles by Graham Robson > > Catalog #123961A @ $8.98 (regularily @ $16.99) > > The latter book has a picture of a Morgan Plus 8 on the cover. > > This sale is good through May 15, 1999. > > I have a copy of the second book and it is worth this price certainly. > I have never seen this particular Ken Hill book, but I have another by > him. I am sure this one is well worth this price as well. > > Then, on page 129 of the current May, 1999, issue of the Automobile > magazine is found a drawing of a Morgan trike by Dave Deal. You may not > know who he is - but I will bet you have seen his automotive art > someplace sometime. A humorous depiction! > > Later, > > Arlo Levisen, Revillo, South Dakota '87 Plus 8 > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 5 16:44:25 1999 From: Colin Cobb To: "Arlo J. Levisen" Date: Mon, 05 Apr 1999 15:08:37 -0600 Subject: Re: Information Hey Arlo, Regarding Ken Hill's "The Art of Selling a Unique Sports Car" you wrote: >> I have never seen this particular Ken Hill book, but I have another by him. I am sure this one is well worth this price as well. << Well, sorta... The "Art of..." (158 pp plus addenda, c., 1997) is worth owning (particularly at $14.98) UNLESS you already have Hill's earlier book, "75 Years on the Road" (158 pp plus index, c., 1984) as the content is nearly identical save for some use of color in the "Art" book and a feeble attempt at labeling some of the ads as to date and so forth. The addendum is a listing of Morgan factory literature. If you randomly open one of the books to, say, page 74, then open the other book to the same page, you will find the IDENTICAL material. (On page 74 of both, for example, is a cut of the '34 Super Sports.) I don't know why Ken Hill elected to release the books under different titles rather than just labeling "Art" as a later revised edition of "75 Years," which is what it is. (Well, actually I DO know why he did it that way...) Believe me, I felt pretty damned silly when I bought "Art" through the mail (for $30 plus shipping) and found it virtually identical to "75 Years" which I already had in my library. Ah, well... --Colin Cobb, Las Cruces, NM, USA From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 00:06:16 1999 From: TrmpetDave@aol.com To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 02:05:36 EDT Subject: Handbrake I thought the message (From Bob Nogieura?) about folding the strands of the cable inside the ferrule before soldering was a real gem. Is it neccessary to then use silver solder, or will ordinary solder suffice? Is there a solution for this problem?: On my '71 +8 the keyed washer that goes outside the front wheel bearing, that I take off every 10,000 miles in order to dutifully grease said bearing, has a pitiful stamped dimple that is supposed to act as a key. On my right front hub the dimple worked its way out of the keyway, so that the remains of the dimple has scored a groove around the stub axle, with the result that it must now spin merrily with the bearing when the car is in motion. New washers don't help, as the groove is now deep enough to allow even the new dimple to enter. The keyway seems to be deep enough to do the job if only I had a washer with a deep enough key. I tried putting a dab of weld on the dimple, to make it longer, and then filed it to fit, but the weld was soon forced off, and the situation reverted to ground zero. I have not become too exercised about it, as there seems to be no damage to the bearing or the races, and the wheel rotates quite smoothly. (for more 10,000 mile cycles than I care to think about). What is the advice-let well enough alone? Dave Collins, San Diego From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 03:44:38 1999 From: ARoman4047@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 05:43:47 EDT Subject: books at "discount" I've been offered "Moggie" by Colin Musgrove from my local lbs (little book store), for $120 + tax and shipping. If anyone is interested, I'll pass the phone number on. Tony in NJ From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 13:28:09 1999 From: "paul swarts" To: "Morgan Mailing List" Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 21:19:41 +0200 Subject: information (dutch) To all the dutch readers, Ken Hill,s "the Art of selling a Unique Sports Car" is for sale at "De Slegte". Discountprice Fl. 29,50. Paul Swarts From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 16:52:34 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 18:47:42 -0400 Subject: Various and sundry, Hi there, First off, Linda at Morgan Spares felt it necessary that I tell you that she did in fact, send me the correct hand brake cable for my car - as there is only one. I have yet to put it on, but I am trying. Does anyone know how many grease nipples there are on a '58 Plus 4? I'm just not sure if I have found them all yet! Also, I mentioned gearbox oil the other day, and a fellow lister told me not to use Hypoid 90 in my Moss box - but rather 30 w. Did he mean just regular 30w engine oil? If I were to drain and refill, how many quarts should I buy? (I know, gota get a manual!) Lastly, (for now) what tools were supplied by the factory back in '57-58? Did they have some kind of a hydaulic bottle jack - and what about a tire iron? I have nothing in my car - hell, I don't even know where the recommended jacking point are! Can anyone help? Regards, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 17:37:36 1999 From: Jane McDaid To: "Jeff Webster" , Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 19:35:58 -0400 Subject: Re: Various and sundry, Jeff, pick up the Fred Sisson book "The Morgan Bedside Reader" ASAP, as he's almost out of them. Morgan Spares's catalogue and Melvyn Rutter's both have excellent blow up drawings of the cars, which probably show the grease nipples. Make sure you get the one reached through the top front of the transmission tunnel! The jack is a screw jack that mounts a pintle into the hole in the frame crossbar just between your legs. That's what the removable plate in the floor is for. Looks sort of like an old VW bus jack with a crank at the top. Wonderfully simple and effective, it lifts one side of the car at a time completely off the ground. It gives you a good idea of the fore & aft balance of the car. If you have steel disk wheels, get a 4 way wheel wrench and find a place to permanently stow it in the car, maybe in the unused battery floor pan behind the driver's seat. Or, get a 1/2" drive very long breaker bar, a short extension and the appropriate socket to fit the lug nuts. This rig will easily stow in the scuttle toolbox. If you have wire wheels, get a copper or lead headed knock-off hammer. Jerry Murphy '67 +4 6676 At 06:47 PM 4/6/99 -0400, Jeff Webster wrote: >Hi there, >First off, Linda at Morgan Spares felt it necessary that I tell you that she >did in fact, send me the correct hand brake cable for my car - as there is >only one. I have yet to put it on, but I am trying. >Does anyone know how many grease nipples there are on a '58 Plus 4? I'm just >not sure if I have found them all yet! >Also, I mentioned gearbox oil the other day, and a fellow lister told me not >to use Hypoid 90 in my Moss box - but rather 30 w. Did he mean just regular >30w engine oil? If I were to drain and refill, how many quarts should I buy? >(I know, gota get a manual!) >Lastly, (for now) what tools were supplied by the factory back in '57-58? >Did they have some kind of a hydaulic bottle jack - and what about a tire >iron? >I have nothing in my car - hell, I don't even know where the recommended >jacking point are! >Can anyone help? > >Regards, > >Jeff > > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 17:50:18 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: carfindr@tiac.net, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 19:24:54 EDT Subject: Re: Various and sundry, Jeff - I don't know much about Morgans, but I can answer two of your questions from my own "newbie" experiences. The gearbox oil for those cars using 30w is in fact straight 30W non-detergent engine oil. If you stick your finger in the filler hole on the tranny and get a little fluid on it - if it's dark and stinks, its 90W, and you might want to check to see if that's what you should be running; maybe it's not the original gearbox. Jack the car anyplace WHERE A CROSSMEMBER JOINS THE MAIN FRONT-TO-REAR CHASSIS RAIL. Jacking on the chassis flange at an unreinforced point (which is most of its length) will result in a bent flange and maybe a warped chassis. My car didn't come with any tools either, so I'm no help there. Gluckauf! Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 17:52:00 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 19:48:53 -0400 Subject: re: Back flushing radiators What is the best way to back flush the cooling system on a '58 Plus 4 Morgan? Any special tips? Regards, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 18:56:37 1999 From: JClax5817@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 20:52:57 EDT Subject: Morgan Article Alert Morgan friends, A family member gave me the April 1999 issue of Polo magazine that contains an article about the love of all things Morgan entitled "The Love Affair", with nice shots of cars and factory scenes. It has a lot of the usual discussion for those unfamiliar with the marque and its mania, but it's very well done and makes for good reading. I am not very familiar with this magazine, but I suppose a phone call to a nearby Barnes & Noble would get you a copy for your archives. Jack Claxton 1956 +4 4-seater From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 20:49:37 1999 From: "J.D. Welch" To: "Morgans@autox.team.net" Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 20:50:26 -0600 Subject: Fred Sisson My apologies to the group for what should be a point-to-point message. Fred, please don't sell the last copy of "The Morgan Bedside Reader" without giving me a fighting chance to get a copy. I think you may have sent me info in a previous message, but a search through Netscape land came up dry, so... Please send price and shipping instructions, and I'll turn it around this week. Thanks, J.D. Welch (Um, thanks, y'all) From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 6 22:12:29 1999 From: FPS3@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 00:10:21 EDT Subject: no more bedside readers at this time Hey guys I have only three copies of The Bedside Reader left. I have no idea if anyone has a "check in the mail", or not, but probably so. It is up in the air as to when or if, I'll get more copies printed. I have a busy summer. The book, like the car, is very labor intensive to produce. All the drawings are (obviously) hand draw & pasted in. I had it printed at a local PIP and it is pretty expensive to have printed- I don't print thousands at a a time. It is a small market and it takes me quite some time to recoup my money. With the postal regulations, it is a pain to send overseas as I have to make a trip to the postoffice each time so I kinda let that market dwindle. Melvyn Rutter has offered to sell it in England but shipping a case of books, plus duty, etc has us at a standstill at this time. I'll probably will revise it slightly and have a few more printed one of these days. Or I may get a bug & advertise it & try to get serious about selling a bigger quantity. Ed Geiger sent me a note about advertising in the Rough Rider, but I never have advertised, figuring that if someone buys a copy- they have probably seen a copy & really want it.- no one can bitch about my claims for the book-. plus advertising costs $$. I have thought making an add using testimonials- that way I am not responsible for any claims. I have sent copies to 17 countries, so word does get around. Anyhoo... if you don't have a copy- borrow one for the time being. If you have one, hang on to it, maybe old copies will appreciate like Moggie. Fred Sisson From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 05:04:13 1999 From: "Stephen F. Bauserman" To: "'Morgans (E-mail)" Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 07:09:53 -0500 Subject: Standards Yesterday I was asked to be a judge at Houston's Wooden Keels and Classic Wheels Show. This is a large regional charity car show with Pebble Beach aspirations. It has been on PBS, etc. Anyway, you get the idea. The show is held at the Lakewood Yacht Club on Clearlake south of Houston the first weekend in May. Judging has been in the past done by members of LYC who volunteered their time and energy, but may not have had knowledge of the makes represented. This was fine as the show began, but now there are over 200 cars (not to mention classic boats) with models from Alvis to Zil. This year several of the car clubs in the area (MG, Jag, MOGMOG and Mercedes) have offered to assist with the judging. The LYC received and acted upon this offer. Bottom line is this, I am now in need of a standard or guide for Morgan. Is there such a thing? Steve Bauserman 67 Morgan 4/4 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 12:30:10 1999 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Rick Feibusch) To: british-cars@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 11:28:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Triumph Herald Hey Listers! Can Anyone out there help this guy? Is there any help for this guy? Rick Feibusch Venice, CA *********************************** Reply to him please at: DLMAssoc@aol.com I'm looking for a nice Triumph Herald convertable, preferably in the Southeast. I already have several TR projects and don't want another project car. If you know of a solid, good running Herald conv't for sale, please let me know. Thanks, Don Marshall Jacksonville, Fla 904-646-0446 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 12:42:33 1999 From: Mark J Bradakis To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 11:28:57 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [BOUNCE morgans@Autox.Team.Net: Non-member submission from ["Stein, Ross" ]] Date: 7 Apr 1999 08:54:37 -0700 From: "Stein, Ross" Subject: Arizona Morgans There is an ad in Autoweek for a 1993 Plus 8 (Red), and a 1994 4/4 (Yellow), same owner, as new and "indoor stored in Arizona". Stated mileage is less than 600 on both. Amazing! I talked to the owner and there are no "stories", and he is asking $48500 and $37000. Sounds great - new Morgans, no airbags or OBD II. Has anyone heard about these cars, anything strange going on? From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 12:58:50 1999 From: "wms" To: "Morganeers" Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 04:59:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Bedside Reader Friends of the Morgan ; It is with sadness that I hear Fred even suggesting that he might not do up another set of the "Bedside Reader "books . I know he is very busy but I cannot imagine starting to rebuild a Morgan without this particular book now that I have had use of it . I have also found it to be very helpful for other auto maintanance as well . Fred I hope you can find time to print up another set of books even in it's present form , you cannot imagine how much I relied on the information gained from that book . I bought probably 10 or 12 hard copy books(all I could find) from the shelf and nothing could touch the " Bedside Reader ' for info . While I read and studied this book I had many many choices on how I was to rebuild my own car . In many cases updates that others had used where implemented ,knowing that they where already proven . I know that not everyone gets involved as deeply as I , however this is one book that every Morgan owner can get a great deal use from . As I read many of the questions put to the forum I say to myself , Why did I not have these questions ? I did , but I found the answers in the ' Reader . Fred you may remember that I received one of the first copies of this last book . I tell you I will be forever greatful that you put out this series , for me to use .At that time you wanted to make the updates and did not know about the time you had available and I was afraid I would be unable to get a copy. The Moss gearbox section is unbeatable (unless you can squeeze a guy in the book to do the job ), the info on cooling is complete, the alternator from generator article is excellent, overdrive in a Morgan , a challenge , it's all there and much more . I think over 100 changes that you can see and cannot see are in my car ,with guidance from this book .I have regretted none and accept the responsiblity for the work done .It is a shame that you have to worry about liability for the work of others when you know the recommendations work well . Fred thank you again for your efforts putting out a book that helped me make my car what it is . I hope some day we can meet and I can show you some of these changes that have made my Morgan a great pleasure to own and drive . Trust you will find time to reprint the" Bedside Reader " so others who have just found the joys of the Morgan can keep them runnin' and keep them in top shape . Glenn Nigh #5112 Plus 4 2 seater restored . From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 16:50:40 1999 From: "Stein, Ross" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: 7 Apr 1999 15:47:16 -0700 Subject: Morgans in Arizona There is an ad in Autoweek for a 1993 Plus Eight (red) and 1994 4/4 (yellow), both less than 600 miles, "as new" and "indoor stored in Arizona". I talked to the owner, nothing more unusual than expected, and I want to go take a look. He is asking $48,500 and $37,000. New Morgans without airbags or OBD II! Has anyone heard about these cars, perhaps well known in Arizona? (Apologize if this is a duplicate message - problems getting it to send) Ross.Stein@KP.org From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 19:58:04 1999 From: "Lee A. Blake" To: , Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 18:57:17 -0700 Subject: RE: no more bedside readers at this time Fred, I want to echo the other comments about how useful the Bedside Reader has been to me. I am just completing an 18 month complete frame up rebuild of a 1960 Plus 4, 4 seater and drove it for the first time a couple weeks ago. I don't believe I could have done it with out the Reader. I converted to an alternator, put in an electric fan, will build a "Sisson" heater, etc. etc. etc. All from reading about it in your book. I also echo the laments of others who would miss the book, and the un-represented laments of those hearty souls who will buy a Morgan project car in the future and have to slog through the rebuild without this excellent reference. I for one would be glad to buy several copies of a new issue "up front", (as you recall I purchased several and gave copies to other Moggies as presents). I'll bet there are others who would do the same. Lee Blake 1960 Plus 4, 4 seater (finally) -----Original Message----- From: owner-morgans@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-morgans@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of FPS3@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 9:10 PM To: morgans@autox.team.net Subject: no more bedside readers at this time Hey guys I have only three copies of The Bedside Reader left. I have no idea if anyone has a "check in the mail", or not, but probably so. It is up in the air as to when or if, I'll get more copies printed. I have a busy summer. The book, like the car, is very labor intensive to produce. All the drawings are (obviously) hand draw & pasted in. I had it printed at a local PIP and it is pretty expensive to have printed- I don't print thousands at a a time. It is a small market and it takes me quite some time to recoup my money. With the postal regulations, it is a pain to send overseas as I have to make a trip to the postoffice each time so I kinda let that market dwindle. Melvyn Rutter has offered to sell it in England but shipping a case of books, plus duty, etc has us at a standstill at this time. I'll probably will revise it slightly and have a few more printed one of these days. Or I may get a bug & advertise it & try to get serious about selling a bigger quantity. Ed Geiger sent me a note about advertising in the Rough Rider, but I never have advertised, figuring that if someone buys a copy- they have probably seen a copy & really want it.- no one can bitch about my claims for the book-. plus advertising costs $$. I have thought making an add using testimonials- that way I am not responsible for any claims. I have sent copies to 17 countries, so word does get around. Anyhoo... if you don't have a copy- borrow one for the time being. If you have one, hang on to it, maybe old copies will appreciate like Moggie. Fred Sisson From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 7 23:23:13 1999 From: "Greg Solow" To: , , Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 21:50:01 -0700 Subject: Re: Various and sundry, The original recommendation for oil for the gearbox in a +4 Moss box was 30 sae engine oil. THIS IS NOT THE BEST LUBRICANT TO USE!! For many years we used GM '' special purpose gear oil", i.e. oil made especially for limited slip differential. It made the syncros work better and helped to prevent wear in the trans. Recently we have been using Redline MTL gear oil. It seems to work as well as far as shifting goes and has lowered the running temp of the gearbox under racing conditions which means to me that it is reducing the friction in the box which has got to be good. There are no detrimental effects from using GL-4 or GL-5 gear oils in a Moss box. There are only the benefits of better lubrication. The limited slip gear oils and the MTL both improve the syncro action if the syncros are not worn out and the hub preload springs inside the gearbox haven't gone soft. Regards, Greg Solow -----Original Message----- From: LSelz@aol.com To: carfindr@tiac.net ; Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 5:04 PM Subject: Re: Various and sundry, >Jeff - > >I don't know much about Morgans, but I can answer two of your questions from >my own "newbie" experiences. > >The gearbox oil for those cars using 30w is in fact straight 30W >non-detergent engine oil. If you stick your finger in the filler hole on the >tranny and get a little fluid on it - if it's dark and stinks, its 90W, and >you might want to check to see if that's what you should be running; maybe >it's not the original gearbox. > >Jack the car anyplace WHERE A CROSSMEMBER JOINS THE MAIN FRONT-TO-REAR >CHASSIS RAIL. Jacking on the chassis flange at an unreinforced point (which >is most of its length) will result in a bent flange and maybe a warped >chassis. > >My car didn't come with any tools either, so I'm no help there. Gluckauf! > > > Lannis > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 17:35:12 1999 From: Jhalfdime@aol.com To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 19:33:07 EDT Subject: SPRING & ?? Maybe someone can explain why all Murphy the Aero needed to get running was four hours in the warm sunshine (And I've already thought about moisture, etc.), I'm probably looking for a more impractical reason! Cheers & ain't life great!!! Jim Nichol PS Tony Souza, I've lost your email address...something about changing computers and programs at the same time... From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 8 20:48:01 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 22:47:05 -0400 Subject: Speedo Drive Gear/Moss Box Hi All, Firstly, let me thank everyone of you for your input and advice, I often receive several replies - and believe me - YOU ARE HELPING! Perhaps someone could help me with this one. On the speedo drive gear thing (that being the bit that one attaches your speedo cable to, on the side of the Moss box) - I removed and cleaned it this evening, I have the brass bit - however, mine has a 'female thread' or to put it another way, it's made to have the speedo cable knurl nut screw 'into' it rather than 'onto' it. Do you follow? I don't know if it is of importance, but my car left the factory with a much earlier gearbox than others that were shipped at the same time. So perhaps there was something different about 1957 or late 56 gearboxes? Does anyone else have a drive gear housing like this? Let me know. Another question I just thought I'd ask....I don't suppose anyone converted their 16" steel wheel Morgan to a 15" wire wheel car - and they happen to have some part worn 16" tires for sale? Five new tires at $160 a pop is gonna kill me! Not to mention my budget. Kind regards, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 08:12:06 1999 From: gdm@po.cwru.edu (David McCoy) To: Jhalfdime@aol.com Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 10:11:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SPRING & ?? >Maybe someone can explain why all Murphy the Aero needed to get running was >four hours in the warm sunshine (And I've already thought about moisture, I had the exact same experience. The `ole TR4a would barely crank. Pushed "Buddy" out of the garage; popped the bonnet and ler the engine soak up rays (and heat) for ~2 hrs. Result was immediate start afer a long winters nap. I assume this has to do wit hwarming the oil and decreasing the viscosity. It is probably correct to assume that cars are cold blooded. Dave McCoy From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 13:45:13 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 15:44:02 EDT Subject: Re: Water temp gauge hookup I have a nice new Tudor water temp gauge and sender to replace the SunPro gauge that a wild-eyed racer had in my car ('66 4/4 with a triple gauge for fuel/oil/amps and a single 2" gauge for water). There's a male blade connector on the sender and a male blade connector on the gauge, along with a female connector on the gauge. Does the sender connect to the male connector and 12 volts to the female? That would seem to make sense, but I don't know where to look. I've been collecting documentation (Lucas manuals, FSBReader, etc) but none of them get into this level of detail. This darn gauge is expensive, and before I let the smoke out of it I'd like to have a shot at connecting it right. Thanks!!!! Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 15:39:48 1999 From: Jhalfdime@aol.com To: Morgans@autox.team.net, morganspares@taconic.net, jbigler@sprintmail.com, Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 17:38:33 EDT Subject: RHINEMOG April already! If I could get a rough count of interested parties for dinner on June 19 after the Aerodrome, I'll set something up so that we don't drive the local innkeepers bonkers! Cheers & Happy Morganing, Jim Nichol From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 19:16:13 1999 From: toad To: Jhalfdime@aol.com Date: Fri, 09 Apr 1999 21:17:37 -0400 Subject: Re: RHINEMOG Jhalfdime@aol.com wrote: > > April already! If I could get a rough count of interested parties for dinner > on June 19 after the Aerodrome, I'll set something up so that we don't drive > the local innkeepers bonkers! > Cheers & Happy Morganing, > Jim Nichol Evening Jim Angus may not be ready for the outing but we should be able to make it regardless even if we roar down in Mortie. Regards Toad '59 Plus 4 '57 plus 4 and naturally the Old Fellow Angus ('33 Super Sport) From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 9 20:36:41 1999 From: Bob Nogueira To: Jeff Webster , Date: Fri, 09 Apr 99 21:35:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Speedo Drive Gear/Moss Box -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- Jeff sounds like the top cap of your speedo drive bronze sleeve is missing. I believe the sleeve has a cap that screws on to the female threated base and has a male threaded head which accepts the cable . ( Rutter lists the same part for all Moss boxes from 52 to 72 ) Bob Nogueira -------- REPLY, Original message follows -------- > Date: Thursday, 08-Apr-99 10:47 PM > > From: Jeff Webster \ Internet: (carfindr@tiac.net) > To: MORGANS \ Internet: (morgans@autox.team.net) > > Subject: Speedo Drive Gear/Moss Box > > Hi All, > Firstly, let me thank everyone of you for your input and advice, I often > receive several replies - and believe me - YOU ARE HELPING! > Perhaps someone could help me with this one. > On the speedo drive gear thing (that being the bit that one attaches your > speedo cable to, on the side of the Moss box) - I removed and cleaned it > this evening, I have the brass bit - however, mine has a 'female thread' or > to put it another way, it's made to have the speedo cable knurl nut screw > 'into' it rather than 'onto' it. Do you follow? > I don't know if it is of importance, but my car left the factory with a much > earlier gearbox than others that were shipped at the same time. So perhaps > there was something different about 1957 or late 56 gearboxes? > Does anyone else have a drive gear housing like this? Let me know. > Another question I just thought I'd ask....I don't suppose anyone converted > their 16" steel wheel Morgan to a 15" wire wheel car - and they happen to > have some part worn 16" tires for sale? > Five new tires at $160 a pop is gonna kill me! Not to mention my budget. > > Kind regards, > > Jeff > > > -------- REPLY, End of original message -------- From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 20:05:46 1999 From: "Arlo J. Levisen" To: Morgan Mailing List Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 20:15:22 +0300 Subject: Morgan Neckties DFLer's: As I sit here in my office while the school prom is underway and I comtemplate the Morgan necktie I am wearing - and note that it is so short that I have to use scotch tape to ensure that the "short" end doesn't pop out around the "long" end, I can't help but wonder if anyone has a source for a nice, long, all-silk necktie with a Morgan on it? I acquired this particular tie from Triple-C Enterprises for about $20 and it has Morgans in four colors running diagonally across it. The design if fine, but the quality of the tie as well as the length leaves something to be desired. I know there are bigger problems in the world right now, but I just thought I would ask.... Later, Arlo Levisen, Revillo, South Dakota '87 Plus 8 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 20:22:30 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 22:06:46 -0400 Subject: Re: Neck Tie At , you wrote: >At 08:15 PM 4/10/99 +0300, you wrote: >>As I sit here in my office while the school prom is underway and I >>comtemplate the Morgan necktie I am wearing - and note that it is so >>short that I have to use scotch tape to ensure that the "short" end >>doesn't pop out around the "long" end, I can't help but wonder if anyone >>has a source for a nice, long, all-silk necktie with a Morgan on it? Arlo, et. al. I purchased a very nice Morgan Neck tie at the AACA Nationals last year. It has a trike, flatrad, and a late model Morgan on it. Very nice. You might want to check the AACA web page and see if they have any stuff for sale. I haven't bothered checking yet. If not, let me know and I'll see if I can't find the address for ordering stuff. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 10 22:05:39 1999 From: toad To: "Arlo J. Levisen" Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 00:07:03 -0400 Subject: Re: Morgan Neckties Arlo J. Levisen wrote: > > DFLer's: > > As I sit here in my office while the school prom is underway and I > comtemplate the Morgan necktie I am wearing - and note that it is so > short that I have to use scotch tape to ensure that the "short" end > doesn't pop out around the "long" end, I can't help but wonder if anyone > has a source for a nice, long, all-silk necktie with a Morgan on it? > > I acquired this particular tie from Triple-C Enterprises for about $20 > and it has Morgans in four colors running diagonally across it. The > design if fine, but the quality of the tie as well as the length leaves > something to be desired. > > I know there are bigger problems in the world right now, but I just > thought I would ask.... > > Later, > > Arlo Levisen, Revillo, South Dakota '87 Plus 8 Arlo The Toad here. You find the material and I'll ask my wife to make you one of appropriate length. How is that for a deal? Regards Toad '59 Plus 4 '57 Plus 4 and my Old Fellow Angus ('33 Super Sport) From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 11 10:55:48 1999 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Rick Feibusch) To: George Richardson Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 09:51:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: buying/selling >vafred@erols.com wrote: > >> Listers, I just recently sold a 1970 Karman Ghia conv. that I have owned >> since 1973, purchased from the original owner, who was a doctor at the >> German Embassy. The car had 24 K on it when I bought it and 43 K when I >> sold, of the 19 K I put on it 25 years, 13 K was done in 1 year. I had >> every paper and log maintenance record since day 1 . . . . . . .I was >>not looking to sell the > car,but, a fair offer was made and I starting thinking. Having a pit and > lift in my garage as well as all the records I invited the would be > purchaser to come for a better look, he showed-up with a 1/2 A@#$% very > unknowledgeable so called mechanic and they "informed" me they would be > taking the car for the day to put it through all their own check-up. Well > my driveway is about 60 feet long so I walked them down it and pointed > my finger up the road and told them please don't come back. My point in > this, if my records of the car, my garage, and your just looking at the > car and knowing the complete story behind the car, you are not a buyer or > a a person who knows anything about a car,. >-- >George Richardson ********************************************* George and Listers, I'll have to go along with Geogre on this one. Appraising cars is my business and I wish that I had those documents and the ability of taking a close look at the underside of the car when I'm doing $100,000-plus appraisals for IRS donations to the Petersen Automotive Museum in LA or The San Diego Auto Museum. I can look at any car (some that there might only be three in the world), and drive it around the neighborhood, look at the supporting documents and listen to the tall stories of who had previously owned it and why that was important enough to double the price, and still come up with a fair value. When I buy cars for myself, I do my homework BEFORE the appraisal (rather than after, as I do with paid appraisals) and know exactly what I'm looking for and how much I will be willing to pay for it at various condition levels when I get there. Unless you are a hobbiest restorer, walk away from too much work, excuse yourself by humbly admiting that it is too much work for you and don't waste your or the sellers time by grinding or degrading the car - just go. Someone who seriously wants to spend the next two years of spare time and money rebuilding it WILL WANT IT and let them hammer out the deal. When you find a car that suits your wants and abilities, look it over for major defects, drive it and think about if you really want it, then hammer out a deal. Last year I bought two cars that will be keepers. The first, a 1969 Malibu ragtop was in the local paper, one owner from new, all papers from new, runs great etc. The lady wanted $3,200 for it. I walked around it, mentally noted the defects, drove it around the block and deceided that I had to have it and was prepared to pay the asking price, but offered her $3,000 and she took it. Easy and I've been driving it since with the only major expence being the 15" Corvette rally wheels and Pirelli tyres which were things I wanted rather than needed. The second was a 1967 Morris Minor Convert for my wife. One owner, all recoeds, low miles and long warm indoor storage. It was 400 miles away and I was the first to call. I headed out to the car with mt Malibu and a tow bar the next weekend knowing that I had to work fast because there were 25 more buyers in line to look at the car at the carved-in-stone price of $3,800. Again, I looked it over and found no rust or body damage, noted the worst upholstery job that I've ever seen, fired up the engine and saw no smoke or heard no knocks and gave the lady the CASH that she demanded and bought the car without driving it as it had no brakes, knowing that if I balked there were twenty five others that would be willing to pay that much for it. After getting it home, all of those things that fail from a long storage, have. The seats fell apart and it has needed everything from a clutch and timing chain to all new suspension and exhaust. I now have over $5,500 in it and it still needs paint and interior to finish (plus chrome, rubber etc.). Turned out not to be such a great deal but it is rust and damage free and one of the cleanest Minor ragtops I've seen in years. Other than the down time for repairs, the wife has been using it every day to drive to work and loves it even with the dull green paint and blue bootlid. What is that worth!!!??? Also, since then Morris Woodies and converts have been heading up to over the $10,000 mark in value for real nice ones and we probably will have a car that will be worth some of the investment when we do sell it someday and it is fun to use and economical to operate. Back to the Karmann-Ghia ragtop. THOSE WERE NOT REAL BUYERS!!!!! They would have known what they wanted and how much they were willing to pay right off - I suspect that they had another buyer that they were going to resell it to at a higher price and were not willing or able to buy it first and take the chance to have their buyer back out or grind THEM on the price. By the way, check out the next issue of British Car Magazine for my TR2-3-4 Buyers Guide. Cheers, Rick Feibusch Journalist/Appraiser Venice, CA From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 07:27:50 1999 From: William Zehring To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 09:28:09 -0400 Subject: nix Y2K in Mogs Dear all; I'm wondering if you have noticed the drawing that accompanies an article on potential Y2K problems in cars, published in the latest (may?) issue of Road and Track. It is a simple drawing, depicting a number of cars by the side of the road, with their hoods (er, bonnets) up, owners standing beside them scratching their heads. Near the bottom of the picture, there is a nice Morgan, tooling along merrily, the driver with a big smile on his face. No doubt about it; we're ahead of the curve. cheers, WZ p.s. probably a 4/4, too From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 07:30:11 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: "'Arlo J. Levisen'" Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 09:29:29 -0400 Subject: RE: Morgan Neckties Arlo, "Sitting in an office in South Dakota while the school prom is underway and wearing a Morgan tie" It doesn't get any better than that, does it? ;-). The "Morgan Works" in the UK sells a Morgan tie. I saw one in the display case when I visited the factory in 1995. I was not terribly impressed with the design, but it's a genuine Morgan tie. Peter Morgan must like it because he was wearing one when I was there. No idea of how much it costs. Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 Pinawa, MB > ---------- > From: Arlo J. Levisen[SMTP:alevisen@gdhscats.org] > Reply To: Arlo J. Levisen > Sent: Saturday, April 10, 1999 12:15 PM > To: Morgan Mailing List > Subject: Morgan Neckties > > DFLer's: > > As I sit here in my office while the school prom is underway and I > comtemplate the Morgan necktie I am wearing - and note that it is so > short that I have to use scotch tape to ensure that the "short" end > doesn't pop out around the "long" end, I can't help but wonder if anyone > has a source for a nice, long, all-silk necktie with a Morgan on it? > > I acquired this particular tie from Triple-C Enterprises for about $20 > and it has Morgans in four colors running diagonally across it. The > design if fine, but the quality of the tie as well as the length leaves > something to be desired. > > I know there are bigger problems in the world right now, but I just > thought I would ask.... > > Later, > > Arlo Levisen, Revillo, South Dakota '87 Plus 8 > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 10:25:56 1999 From: "Kit Hildreth" To: zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 09:24:17 PDT Subject: Re: nix Y2K in Mogs "Dear all, I'm wondering if you have noticed the drawing that accompanies an article on potential Y2K problems in cars, published in the latest (may?) issue of Road and Track. It is a simple drawing, depicting a number of cars by the side of the road, with their hoods (er, bonnets) up, owners standing beside them scratching their heads. Near the bottom of the picture, there is a nice Morgan, tooling along merrily, the driver with a big smile on his face. No doubt about it; we're ahead of the curve." ********* Indeed! As is the Technical Editor of Toad & Rack, Dennis Siamantis- a confirmed Mogger(and owner thereof). Is he trying to tell them something out there?(!!!) Kit Hildreth '77 Plus 8 5.0L RHD cheers, WZ p.s. probably a 4/4, too Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 16:35:34 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: krisbox@hotmail.com, zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 18:07:38 EDT Subject: Re: nix Y2K in Mogs "...probably a 4/4 too...." You know, it probably is a 4/4; those modern V8s have who-knows-what kind of spooky electronic technology to keep all those cylinders from running into each other, and as for the +4s....I've heard that Ferguson tractor engines have long had hidden electronic controls to keep from stalling out if the plowshare hits a root or a rock......... Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 17:19:52 1999 From: Jhalfdime@aol.com To: zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:13:19 EDT Subject: Re: nix Y2K in Mogs Sorry, Will...a +4 4seater, as Dennis Siminaitis, R & T Tech editor, and author of the piece, owns & drives. Tractor engines & V-Twins forever!! Cheers & Happy Morganing, Jim Nichol From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 17:34:44 1999 From: "Michael D. Miles, PE" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 16:38:20 -0700 Subject: Who Needs Y2K When We Have Lucas! Need I say more (or did someone else beat me to it)? What and where are you on May 22? The 1999 Vancouver BC All British Field Meet will take place on Saturday May 22, 1999, Victoria Day weekend. The annual garden party in celebration of the British motor car is now in its fourteenth year and is the largest in Canada, with well over 400 entries. Follow the URL to find out more and register on-line. If you just CAN'T manage to bring the Mog then show up anyway and have a splendid time chinning with those who did. http://www.direct.ca/driver From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 19:19:39 1999 From: "Gary" To: "Morgan Mail List" Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:23:55 +0800 Subject: RE: nix Y2K in Mogs electronic controls....Hmm, is that what that wire was that was left over when I rewired the dashboard in 1980? Does it mean my car will hit 2000 in 20 years time if I reconnect it? Gary Arcus 1954 +4 > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-morgans@autox.team.net > [mailto:owner-morgans@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of LSelz@aol.com > Sent: Tuesday, 13 April 1999 6:08 > To: krisbox@hotmail.com; zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU > Cc: morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: nix Y2K in Mogs > > > "...probably a 4/4 too...." > > You know, it probably is a 4/4; those modern V8s have > who-knows-what kind of > spooky electronic technology to keep all those cylinders from > running into > each other, and as for the +4s....I've heard that Ferguson > tractor engines > have long had hidden electronic controls to keep from stalling out if the > plowshare hits a root or a rock......... > > > > Lannis > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 20:08:00 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:07:05 -0400 Subject: My kingdom for a decent reference book!!! Hi all, I am soldiering on, trying to get my 58 Plus 4 road worthy (every time I think I have welded the last weak piece of chassis, I find another area that needs repair!) and trying to cut new front floorboards from templates that the previous owner created (badly) is a bitch of a job! Any way, the question of the day is...... Are there meant to be any wires, fuel lines etc. that run front to back INSIDE the car? Mine has the battery negative cable (It's a positive earth car), a bunch of lighting wires on the passenger side, and a fuel line on the drivers side. They all run/are attached to the sill board. I can't believe this work is original, Surely the wiring and fuel lines ran on the outside of the tub, perhaps under the wings? Some one enlighten me please. Best regards, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 20:24:12 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:18:46 -0400 Subject: Re: My kingdom for a decent reference book!!! At 10:07 PM 4/12/99 -0400, you wrote: >Are there meant to be any wires, fuel lines etc. that run front to back >INSIDE the car? >Mine has the battery negative cable (It's a positive earth car), a bunch of >lighting wires on the passenger side, and a fuel line on the drivers side. >They all run/are attached to the sill board. >I can't believe this work is original, Surely the wiring and fuel lines ran >on the outside of the tub, perhaps under the wings? Jeff, that's all original!!! My 65 4/4 is the same way John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 20:29:21 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: garc@iinet.net.au, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:19:07 EDT Subject: Re: nix Y2K in Mogs To all - I joke about tractor engines (jokes are left over from my MG vs. my Triumph buddies) but hope no one thinks I'm putting anybody's car down. I need everyone's help to keep the 4/4 going and can't afford to make anyone mad. In fact, I own, love, and work a 1958 Ferguson "Thirty-Five" tractor. I've heard the stories about the unholy alliance between John Black and Harry Ferguson back in the early 50s, but can see no similarities between the engine that pulls my plow, disk, blade, bush hog, baler, etc., and the engines that I've seen under the hoods of TR3s and Morgans. Are those stories apocryphal or are they true? Has anyone been deep enough into both the Massey-Ferguson tractor and a TR engine to know for sure? The Ferguson has 5100 hours on it and is due for a rebuild; any +4 experts want to come over and either prove or disprove a legend?? Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 20:37:19 1999 From: "William G. Lamb, III" To: LSelz@aol.com Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:37:33 -0400 Subject: Re: nix Y2K in Mogs To Whomsoever It May Concern: No, seriously. I can positively assert that no Y2K issues exist within the ECU's of Land Rover EFi V-8's as there are no dating codes. This applies to Lucas/Bosch, SAGEM, and Bosch ECU's. I have read this in numerous bulletins over the last year. I would also presume that the same or similar logic applies to Rover Plus 4's. (I will freely admit that there IS quite a bit of spooky technology in my 4.0, however!) The funny thing is that I cannot make the same assertion about the ECU in late-model Ford Zetec 1.8 4/4's. It WOULD be rather droll if the British engines were fine and the Ford were not. So, maybe it's the 4/4's that would be parked on New Years Day!!! Anyway, Ford would probably not be that stupid either. General Motors might be a different story. William G. Lamb, III Land Rover Specialist At 06:07 PM 4/12/99 -0400, LSelz@aol.com wrote: >"...probably a 4/4 too...." > >You know, it probably is a 4/4; those modern V8s have who-knows-what kind of >spooky electronic technology to keep all those cylinders from running into >each other, and as for the +4s....I've heard that Ferguson tractor engines >have long had hidden electronic controls to keep from stalling out if the >plowshare hits a root or a rock......... > > Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 20:41:25 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: carfindr@tiac.net, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:22:38 EDT Subject: Re: My kingdom for a decent reference book!!! Jeff - For what my advice has been worth lately (and I was 1 for 3 on the last one) the fuel lines and lighting wires run down the INSIDE of the left side of my 4/4, and the battery cable runs down the INSIDE of the right (drivers) side. I can't say if it's original or not, but it looks natural, and the lines are protected that way. Very Morganish, if you ask me...... Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 21:47:47 1999 From: Bob Nogueira To: "aMORGANS@autox.team.net" Date: Mon, 12 Apr 99 22:46:07 -0500 Subject: Wood Dashboards -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- Okay folks got a question here. Can I get some input on dashboard finishes. On the first dashboard I did I used varnish and the result was a finish which took forever to put on and I never could get it thick enough to achieve the glass look. Next dash ( same car) I did a filler and clear lacquer finish which looked great until I got it into the sun at which point it cracked and turned milky . Since then I have used tung oil, It goes on easy ( rag) and does have a nice finish which I imagine to be close to what the original factory finish was like.( okay old timers, what did a Morgan wood dashboard really look like when new ?) Problem is I have to remove the dash and put fresh tung oil on every year. I don't mind doing it this year since I be removing the Dash to update my Dashboard Display computer chips but I'd like to get something on the wood that will last more than a year . What have others used as a finish? Bob Nogueira From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 12 22:12:44 1999 From: "L.D. McLaughlin, Jr." To: Morgan Mailing List Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 23:14:55 -0500 Subject: magazine article Willie - Didn't you say that there would be an article in Road & Track in May on Morgans? I've looked in it and also Car & Driver, and didn't see one... Maybe I've overlooked it - Could you help? By the way, there's the first of a two-part story on Morgans in the April issue of Enjoying MG, the national publication of MG owners... How's that for rating? :>) Tony From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 01:09:52 1999 From: "Greg Solow" To: "Bob Nogueira" , Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 23:38:55 -0700 Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards I use a sealer and then polyurethane clear on my dash and it has the same color as when new although with is smoother and glossier finish. It was last refinished about 10 years ago and still looks like new! Regards, Greg Solow -----Original Message----- From: Bob Nogueira To: aMORGANS@autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 12, 1999 8:59 PM Subject: Wood Dashboards >-- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- > >Okay folks got a question here. Can I get some input on dashboard finishes. >On the first dashboard I did I used varnish and the result was a finish >which took forever to put on and I never could get it thick enough to >achieve the glass look. >Next dash ( same car) I did a filler and clear lacquer finish which looked >great until I got it into the sun at which point it cracked and turned milky >. >Since then I have used tung oil, It goes on easy ( rag) and does have a >nice finish which I imagine to be close to what the original factory finish >was like.( okay old timers, what did a Morgan wood dashboard really look >like when new ?) Problem is I have to remove the dash and put fresh tung >oil on every year. I don't mind doing it this year since I be removing the >Dash to update my Dashboard Display computer chips but I'd like to get >something on the wood that will last more than a year . What have others >used as a finish? > >Bob Nogueira > > > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 05:35:17 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:34:04 -0400 Subject: My kingdom for a good refererence book... OK, from what I can gather, it is "normal" for my '58 Plus 4 roadster to have the battery cable, lighting wires and fuel line running front to back on the INSIDE of the car on top of the sill boards! If this is the case, how does the trim cover it to achieve that padded effect? And while I'm on the subject of trim, does anyone sell good trim kits? - I'm not talking about seat covers and the like, but more the stuff that dresses up the sides and back of the cockpit. Lastly, regarding replacement door hinges. Is there a good way to rebuild them (as in do machine shops replace the pins etc.) or does one just bite the bullet and pay $35 per hinge for new ones? Regards. Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 08:09:09 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: nogera@prodigy.net, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:08:02 -0700 Subject: RE: Wood Dashboards Varnish! We use Z-Spar. Some of the late '60s cars had veneer with lacquer. I do not know what is under the fabric (leather) on the newer cars. Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Nogueira [SMTP:nogera@prodigy.net] > Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 8:46 PM > To: aMORGANS@autox.team.net > Subject: Wood Dashboards > > -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- > > Okay folks got a question here. Can I get some input on dashboard > finishes. > On the first dashboard I did I used varnish and the result was a > finish > which took forever to put on and I never could get it thick enough to > achieve the glass look. > Next dash ( same car) I did a filler and clear lacquer finish which looked > great until I got it into the sun at which point it cracked and turned > milky > . > Since then I have used tung oil, It goes on easy ( rag) and does have a > nice finish which I imagine to be close to what the original factory > finish > was like.( okay old timers, what did a Morgan wood dashboard really look > like when new ?) Problem is I have to remove the dash and put fresh > tung > oil on every year. I don't mind doing it this year since I be removing the > Dash to update my Dashboard Display computer chips but I'd like to get > something on the wood that will last more than a year . What have others > used as a finish? > > Bob Nogueira > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 08:14:59 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: "'William Zehring'" Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 10:10:35 -0400 Subject: RE: nix Y2K in Mogs "It is a simple drawing, depicting a number of cars by the side of the road, with their hoods (er, bonnets) up, owners standing beside them scratching their heads. Near the bottom of the picture, there is a nice Morgan, tooling along merrily, the driver with a big smile on his face." There must be a "sweet spot" somewhere in the evolution of Morgans, after Lucas electrics became reliable and before computer chips invaded cars. That is probably the vintage of the Morgan in the R&T cartoon. Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 08:29:29 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: "'Bob Nogueira'" Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 10:27:10 -0400 Subject: RE: Wood Dashboards A related question: what wood is used in making Morgan dashboards? I suspect it has changed over the years; mine is a light coloured wood but I have not been able to identify it yet (for all I know, it may have started life as an board in a cabinet). The choice of finish will depend on the type of wood. I hope Morgan never used teak! Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 > ---------- > From: Bob Nogueira[SMTP:nogera@prodigy.net] > Reply To: Bob Nogueira > Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 10:46 PM > To: aMORGANS@autox.team.net > Subject: Wood Dashboards > > -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- > > Okay folks got a question here. Can I get some input on dashboard > finishes. > On the first dashboard I did I used varnish and the result was a > finish > which took forever to put on and I never could get it thick enough to > achieve the glass look. > Next dash ( same car) I did a filler and clear lacquer finish which looked > great until I got it into the sun at which point it cracked and turned > milky > . > Since then I have used tung oil, It goes on easy ( rag) and does have a > nice finish which I imagine to be close to what the original factory > finish > was like.( okay old timers, what did a Morgan wood dashboard really look > like when new ?) Problem is I have to remove the dash and put fresh > tung > oil on every year. I don't mind doing it this year since I be removing the > Dash to update my Dashboard Display computer chips but I'd like to get > something on the wood that will last more than a year . What have others > used as a finish? > > Bob Nogueira > > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 08:59:43 1999 From: scott.barrie@CIMtegration.com (Scott Barrie) To: Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:00:40 -0500 Subject: RE: Wood Dashboards >A related question: what wood is used in making Morgan dashboards? I >suspect it has changed over the years; mine is a light coloured wood but I >have not been able to identify it yet (for all I know, it may have started >life as an board in a cabinet). The choice of finish will depend on the >type of wood. I hope Morgan never used teak! The dash in my car is walnut and I suspect that it is typical. The English variety is slightly lighter in colour than the black walnut we are familiar with in North America but it is a very attractive wood that is stable, easy to work and takes finish well. When I refinished mine about 15 years ago I just used a gloss finish varnish that was brushed on using the best brush I could find. The dash was hung vertically under a tent to prevent dust settling on the surface as it dried. Then, to cut the gloss, I buffed the surface with rottenstone and water to render a pleasing satin finish. Whatever you do, I would suggest trying it out on a piece of scrap first to ensure that you end up with the finish you want. Good luck! Best regards Scott Barrie '63 Plus Four From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 09:24:40 1999 From: Art Hart To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:26:54 -0400 Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards > Chuck, > > The original dashboard (At least I think it is original) on my '64 +4 is mahogany. > I refinished mine a year ago > last January with 7 coats of urethane varnish rubbed down between each coat. I > installed it and didn''t like the shiny, very reflective surface especially in > bright sunlight so I took it out again, wet sanded it with 600 paper and just > used Butcher's wax on it. The result is a very rich looking finish that doesn't > reflect the sun glare. It looks a little different, but I like it - and that's > what counts! > > Art Hart > > "Vandergraaf, Chuck" wrote: > > > A related question: what wood is used in making Morgan dashboards? I > > suspect it has changed over the years; mine is a light coloured wood but I > > have not been able to identify it yet (for all I know, it may have started > > life as an board in a cabinet). The choice of finish will depend on the > > type of wood. I hope Morgan never used teak! > > > > Chuck Vandergraaf > > '52 +4 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 09:39:16 1999 From: Bob Tescione To: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:41:24 -0400 Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards Vandergraaf, Chuck wrote: > > A related question: what wood is used in making Morgan dashboards? I > suspect it has changed over the years; mine is a light coloured wood but I > have not been able to identify it yet (for all I know, it may have started > life as an board in a cabinet). The choice of finish will depend on the > type of wood. I hope Morgan never used teak! > > Chuck Vandergraaf > '52 +4 > Chuck and others: Mine too is light colored. I believe it is the original dash but has added holes for switches and instruments added over the years. It looks like mahogany to me, but the Morgan factory told me when i inquired a number of years ago, that they used walnut. It is much lighter than the walnut wood available in this part of the US. I am contemplating a replacement dash out of some more figured wood. My car is a 1951 +4. Bob Tescione mogman@rpa.net From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 09:52:47 1999 From: "Kit Hildreth" To: mdmiles@home.com Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 08:53:46 PDT Subject: Re: Who Needs Y2K When We Have Lucas! Bloody cheek! The Lucas electrics on MY MOG have given sterling service these past 20 years, with NO problems AT ALL. MOGS has never been garaged either and has led a hard life by Moggin' standards. Actually, I tell a lie! The Lucas Battery case cracked one year, but it still managed a 1000 mile trip before I spotted the problem- SLIGHT difficulty starting on Frosty mornings, was all the indication something was wrong: some epoxy made an excellent fix until I got her back home and changed out the battery. If you want to talk BAD electrics, lets talk Electronica as in Ducati! Dreadful, electrical repair kit mandatory even for short trips! No, the Prince of Darkness is a fraud in my book! Kit Hildreth Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 10:05:25 1999 From: "Kit Hildreth" To: nogera@prodigy.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:07:02 PDT Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards I had a custom Mahogany(Br) dash fitted to MOGS when I got it, and the Wood had simply been French Polished. I just used Furniture polish thereafter each time I washed the car each week. It shows signs of wear after 20 years, but is in good shape otherwise. But then MOGS has never been a "Concours Cutie"! Kit Hildreth "77 Plus 8 5.0L RHD Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 10:44:23 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: krisbox@hotmail.com, mdmiles@home.com Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:42:45 -0700 Subject: RE: Who Needs Y2K When We Have Lucas! Yes, Joe Lucas generaly takes a bum rap. With the exception of a period in the '70s when the rocker switches as used on the facia tended to fall appart, I have always found Lucas components to be quite reliable. It is the wiring harness which generaly causes electrical problems in British cars. This is particularly true in the older cars (when Lucas got his reputation). The insulation on the wiring would dry up and rot causing shorts which in turn would burn up components (let the smoke out) and generaly wreak havoc with the system. Poor Uncle Joe got the blame! The other problem is the Corrosion Gnome which likes to live in the "bullet" connectors and fuse blocks (refusing to let the smoke travel from component to component). Good Luck All, Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: Kit Hildreth [SMTP:krisbox@hotmail.com] > Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 8:54 AM > To: mdmiles@home.com > Cc: Morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: Who Needs Y2K When We Have Lucas! > > Bloody cheek! The Lucas electrics on MY MOG have given sterling service > these past 20 years, with NO problems AT ALL. MOGS has never been garaged > either and has led a hard life by Moggin' standards. Actually, I tell a > lie! The Lucas Battery case cracked one year, but it still managed a 1000 > mile trip before I spotted the problem- SLIGHT difficulty starting on > Frosty mornings, was all the indication something was wrong: some epoxy > made an excellent fix until I got her back home and changed out the > battery. If you want to talk BAD electrics, lets talk Electronica as in > Ducati! Dreadful, electrical repair kit mandatory even for short trips! > No, the Prince of Darkness is a fraud in my book! > Kit Hildreth > > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 10:53:00 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: Kit Hildreth , mdmiles@home.com Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 12:24:38 EDT Subject: Re: Who Needs Y2K When We Have Lucas! Kit - I think you're right about the efficacy of Lucas systems in general. My Lucas parts on any of my LBCs (like regulators, generators, motors,etc) last at least as long as their Delco or Bosch counterparts. The problem usually lies with whatever idiot designed unfused taillight wires and similar design features. Would that be considered a Lucas problem or an AustinHealy problem? And when the system is 30 or 40 years old, ninety percent of the problems are due to a BAD GROUND. Every problem I've had to date on my Morgan has been a bad or rusty ground connection. I'm with you. Hooray for Uncle Joe, Bringer of Light! Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 11:23:22 1999 From: "Michael D. Miles, PE" To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 10:26:49 -0700 Subject: Re: Who Needs Y2K When We Have Lucas! These are valid points about what is and is not directly Lucas but one element not covered which IS Lucas is the blasted little 'socket' loops of metal on fixtures to receive the "bullet". In the interest of economy or perhaps because its cheaper to repair than design out the flaw, the loops are not spring tempered for a gas tight connection and are not plated to prohibit oxides (probably becaus eht bullets aren't plated anyway - which came first?. The oxidation itself doesn't do as much damage directly as the fretting corrosion that occurs after the oxidation is present. Fretting corrosion is the loosening of oxides due to vibration or simply wiggling the wires to make them work (tapping the glass on the turn signal). After a while, the loose oxide particles form an insulating layer between the two circuit components. For some components (high current), the very high impedances create lots of voltage drop and/or contact heating to the point of creating the familiar wisp of smoke. While not strictly Lucas sourced, the bullet itself is indeed ripe with failure modes: 1) typically the wire is not tinned so bare copper is exposed 2) the bullet is brass with no other plating to avoid corrosion 3) the wire is slid through and folded over the bullet so contact to the fixture is inconsistent at best. Having said all that, my 1968 Mog still has the original fittings and bare wire and when it starts getting flaky, I pull the bullet, wipe it off (therby adding valuable skin oils to aid the corrosion process), reinsert it and am merrily away... I was once pulled over in a small town in Washington very late on a rainy night because my left taillight was out. I turned on the lights, tapped the lens a couple of times til it came on, quoted the usual "blasted Lucas electrics", asked where the local motel was in town, and was let go without a ticket. Gerry Willburn wrote: > > Yes, Joe Lucas generaly takes a bum rap. With the exception of a period in > the '70s when the rocker switches as used on the facia tended to fall > appart, I have always found Lucas components to be quite reliable. It is > the wiring harness which generaly causes electrical problems in British > cars. This is particularly true in the older cars (when Lucas got his > reputation). The insulation on the wiring would dry up and rot causing > shorts which in turn would burn up components (let the smoke out) and > generaly wreak havoc with the system. Poor Uncle Joe got the blame! The > other problem is the Corrosion Gnome which likes to live in the "bullet" > connectors and fuse blocks (refusing to let the smoke travel from component > to component). > > Good Luck All, > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 13:28:31 1999 From: jpavone@vanstar.com To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 12:28:17 -0700 Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards I refinished my new dash by spraying on about 8 coats of Minwax Spar-poly. I originally used the Gloss formula but found it too shiny. Reapplying the same product in Semi-gloss solved the problem. Regards, John 59 4/4 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 13:40:34 1999 From: Sean Boyle To: Morgans Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 19:39:38 +0000 Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards It probably worked out for the best in that case. The satin varnishes often accomplish that look by putting ground glass in it. The finish isn't quite as durable, so starting with gloss and overcoating with satin is a good way to go... not that it matters much with a dashboard (unless peoples heads hit it a lot :-) jpavone@vanstar.com wrote: > I refinished my new dash by spraying on about 8 coats of Minwax Spar-poly. > I originally used the Gloss formula but found it too shiny. Reapplying the > same product in Semi-gloss solved the problem. > > Regards, > > John > 59 4/4 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 13:54:12 1999 From: scott.barrie@CIMtegration.com (Scott Barrie) To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 15:55:29 -0500 Subject: Re: Who Needs Y2K When We Have Lucas! Kit recently wrote: >Bloody cheek! The Lucas electrics on MY MOG have given sterling service >these past 20 >years, with NO problems AT ALL. MOGS has never been garaged either and has >led a hard >life by Moggin' standards. Actually, I tell a lie! The Lucas Battery case >cracked one I would never dream of making such a statement. But that's only because I would then have to live in terror of having jinxed the excellent luck I've had with the electricals in my car the past 26 years.... :-) I have no qualms about agreeing resoundingly with Kit on his Ducati statement however. I don't believe mine has ever been quite right.... Probably never will.... Scott Barrie '63 Plus Four From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 14:06:41 1999 From: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" To: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 16:04:50 -0400 Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards Mine's mahogony, I think, or a dam good imprint of same. Likely pine with a decal....Chip Brown Vandergraaf, Chuck wrote: > A related question: what wood is used in making Morgan dashboards? I > suspect it has changed over the years; mine is a light coloured wood but I > have not been able to identify it yet (for all I know, it may have started > life as an board in a cabinet). The choice of finish will depend on the > type of wood. I hope Morgan never used teak! > > Chuck Vandergraaf > '52 +4 > > > ---------- > > From: Bob Nogueira[SMTP:nogera@prodigy.net] > > Reply To: Bob Nogueira > > Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 10:46 PM > > To: aMORGANS@autox.team.net > > Subject: Wood Dashboards > > > > -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- > > > > Okay folks got a question here. Can I get some input on dashboard > > finishes. > > On the first dashboard I did I used varnish and the result was a > > finish > > which took forever to put on and I never could get it thick enough to > > achieve the glass look. > > Next dash ( same car) I did a filler and clear lacquer finish which looked > > great until I got it into the sun at which point it cracked and turned > > milky > > . > > Since then I have used tung oil, It goes on easy ( rag) and does have a > > nice finish which I imagine to be close to what the original factory > > finish > > was like.( okay old timers, what did a Morgan wood dashboard really look > > like when new ?) Problem is I have to remove the dash and put fresh > > tung > > oil on every year. I don't mind doing it this year since I be removing the > > Dash to update my Dashboard Display computer chips but I'd like to get > > something on the wood that will last more than a year . What have others > > used as a finish? > > > > Bob Nogueira > > > > > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 16:03:22 1999 From: Steve Moore To: carfindr@tiac.net Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:00:55 +1000 Subject: Re: My kingdom for a good refererence book... Jeff, The factory used horsehair padding covered by the leather trim. This accounted for a lot of the rot that occured around sill boards. When I first removed the old trim from my car I discovered a miniture ecosystem existing along the sill boards and rocker. Everything from tiny mites to fungus. Needless to say the wood needed a deal of attention. I'm not sure what the factory uses now but there are fibreglass covers available from Vic Champness of Black Phey Ltd in Takeley, UK. These can be covered with a thin layer of closed cell foam and then the leather trim. I find closed cell foam the best choice for a lot of padding applications as it does not hold water and hence does not lead to rust or rot problems. As to hinges. $35!!! You must be joking. Is this a factory price? The best solution is to have the existing pins replaced with stainless steel ones. Ream out the hinges an use oversized pins to take out any slop caused by wear. Any machine shop should be able to help you out. Cheers Steve Moore >OK, from what I can gather, it is "normal" for my '58 Plus 4 roadster to >have the battery cable, lighting wires and fuel line running front to back >on the INSIDE of the car on top of the sill boards! >If this is the case, how does the trim cover it to achieve that padded >effect? >And while I'm on the subject of trim, does anyone sell good trim kits? - I'm >not talking about seat covers and the like, but more the stuff that dresses >up the sides and back of the cockpit. >Lastly, regarding replacement door hinges. Is there a good way to rebuild >them (as in do machine shops replace the pins etc.) or does one just bite >the bullet and pay $35 per hinge for new ones? > >Regards. > >Jeff Stephen S. Moore Principal Research Scientist Beef CRC Molecular Genetics Sub Program Leader CSIRO, Tropical Agriculture Molecular Animal Genetics Centre Level 3, Gehrmann Laboratories University of Queensland, St. Lucia, 4072 ph 61 7 3214 2476 fax 61 7 3214 2480 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 16:24:04 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 17:30:26 -0400 Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards At 10:46 PM 4/12/99 -0500, Bob Nogueira wrote: >Okay folks got a question here. Can I get some input on dashboard finishes. >On the first dashboard I did I used varnish and the result was a finish >which took forever to put on and I never could get it thick enough to >achieve the glass look...... Bob, others have pretty much stated it. The dash in my 4/4 is made of mahogany and covered with polyeurothaine (sp). John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 16:24:38 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: "Jeff Webster" , morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 17:47:20 -0400 Subject: Re: My kingdom for a good refererence book... At 07:34 AM 4/13/99 -0400, Jeff Webster wrote: >My kingdom for a good refererence book... For starters Jeff, between Fred's book and my Morgan web page, you have one hell-of-a start. Next with this list, you can't ask for much more. >If this is the case, how does the trim cover it to achieve that padded >effect? There is "horse hair" similar to jute glued to the vertical wall of the chassis, and layed over the flat part of the sill plate. Then the leather is set on top of the horse hair. Starting at the top outer edge (in the door way) it is tacked down with escrution (sp) pins - small nails. However, "todays 'mercian technology" is to use a air powered staple gun to tack it down. The working from the center out continue tacking along the sill plate. Then work on smoothing it down the vertical wall of the chassis, and tack it to the floor boards. I made some comments about this in one of my articles, I was thinking about trying to make it more eaisly removable from the floor boards so you could lift the leather to let the horse hair dry out when it gets wet. Haven't done anything about that yet. >And while I'm on the subject of trim, does anyone sell good trim kits? - I'm >not talking about seat covers and the like, but more the stuff that dresses >up the sides and back of the cockpit. These are very eaisly made. It not rocket science, no sewing machine required. What could be easier :) John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 16:47:27 1999 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Rick Feibusch) To: morris@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 15:38:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: All British Marque Auto Jumble(Connecticut 4/25/99) >From: Gbouff1@aol.com >Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 18:40:21 EDT >Subject: All British Marque Auto Jumble(Connecticut 4/25/99) >FYI >The Connecticut Triumph Register has organized an Auto Jumble on Sunday April >25, 9 AM to 1 PM, rain day is May 2, for a day of buying and selling parts. >Last year I went to this and I picked up a few decent items for my TR3A. >Also it is being held at Bob's Foreign Auto Sevice, 230A Rowe AVemue, >Milford, CT. He usually has several lbcs in various stages of restoration, >and if like last year you get to peek in the shop. This is not a huge event >but there are some interesting vendors and possibly a few treasures. All in >all it should be a pretty interesting day for those that participate. > >Directions From Interstate 95 South: Exit 35, Bic Drive. Turn right ot end >of the ramp. Turn left on to Rowe Avenue Extension, (first left) at the Red >Roof Inn. Follow to #230A on your right, or the blue lbc smoke. > >Directions From Interstate 95 North: Exit 35, Bic Drive. Turn left at end >of ramp. Turn left on to Rowe Ave Extension, First left) at the red roof inn. > Follow to #230A on right. > >I hope to see a few of you there. I will be trying to pedal some parts from >my donor car that I don't need. And more than likely, I will buy more than I >sell. > >Gary Bouffard >59 TR3A TS58399 > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 18:18:49 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 20:16:49 -0400 Subject: More questions! Hi all, OK, here's one for you. What (if anything) is the backrest of a roadster attached to? Or is anything supposed to be attached to it? Something (else) on my 58 +4 doesn't seem right. When I set the back rest in place, and put the seat bases in position, then set my seat cushion on the base and flush it up to he front edge - I have a gap of two to three inches between the bottom of the backrest and the rear of the seat cushion? Is my seat cushion too small ? (roughly 15W by 16" L) is the base too big? (roughly 13"W by 20"L) Could someone make some measurements and let me know? Onward, ever onward! Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 19:26:24 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: carfindr@tiac.net, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:05:46 EDT Subject: Re: More questions! Jeff - Re: "...seat dimensions....gaps...." I went out and measured the seats on my '66 4/4 (which has a slightly different seating system than yours, but is a two-seater), and found that my seat bases are 19" long by 15" wide, and therefore are a tight fit between the chassis crossmembers, and between the sill and tunnel. The seat bases are not attached to anything, and lift right out. The (pneumatic) cushions are exactly the same dimensions The top of the backrest fits flush against a wooden crosspiece which bolts to each side of the tub with wingnuts sliding in a slotted angle iron, to provide a bit of fore-and-aft adjustment. The bottom of the backrest sits on the floor, wedged between a crossmember and a bit of wood screwed to the floorboard. The backrest is ALSO not attached to anything. (Must not be a Consumer Products Safety Commission in England). There is about a two-inch gap between the bottom of the backrest and the back of the seat cushion. In this gap you can see the front mounts for the leaf springs, and the seat belt anchors. It looks horribly uncomfortable. When I first looked at those steel flanges, I thought it would rip my pants clean off and cut me open, but I've never felt them, despite flinging the car wildly about. My car may be wrong, but if it is, it's wrong the same way yours is. In Morgan terms, that may just make it right.....Others who know what it's SUPPOSED to look like may be able to assist; all I did was use a measuring tape on a 33 year old car......caveat requestor! Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 13 21:49:07 1999 From: Jon Callas To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 20:47:59 -0700 Subject: Brake joined to the clutch I got in the Moggie this morning ('67, +4), and decided to drive it because it's the first decent day we've had in the Valley in weeks. So I cranked it up and puttered off, and noticed that -- somehow the clutch pedal and brake pedal were joined. Push the clutch, the brakes go on. It seems that if I'm pushing the brake, the clutch pedal moves too. Not good. I poke at it a bit, and drive it around the block, and the car is acting a lot like a car acts when the clutch is on its last legs. I drive it back to the driveway, sulk, and take the Defender. Is this something stupid that if I know the right place to bang, the pieces that have bound together will unbind? Or am I looking at what I fear, a new clutch? Jon From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 01:59:03 1999 From: "Greg Solow" To: , , Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 00:16:28 -0700 Subject: Re: More questions! The bit of wood screwed to the sill boards on each side of the car that the seat back sits behind is also an adjustment point for the seat back. The backrest can be placed either in front of or behind the piece of wood to move it forward or backward by about 3 inches or so. This works along with the adjustable support at the top of the seat back to give an " adequate" range of adjustment . -----Original Message----- From: LSelz@aol.com To: carfindr@tiac.net ; Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 6:36 PM Subject: Re: More questions! >Jeff - Re: "...seat dimensions....gaps...." > >I went out and measured the seats on my '66 4/4 (which has a slightly >different seating system than yours, but is a two-seater), and found that my >seat bases are 19" long by 15" wide, and therefore are a tight fit between >the chassis crossmembers, and between the sill and tunnel. The seat bases >are not attached to anything, and lift right out. The (pneumatic) cushions >are exactly the same dimensions The top of the backrest fits flush against a >wooden crosspiece which bolts to each side of the tub with wingnuts sliding >in a slotted angle iron, to provide a bit of fore-and-aft adjustment. The >bottom of the backrest sits on the floor, wedged between a crossmember and a >bit of wood screwed to the floorboard. The backrest is ALSO not attached to >anything. (Must not be a Consumer Products Safety Commission in England). >There is about a two-inch gap between the bottom of the backrest and the back >of the seat cushion. In this gap you can see the front mounts for the leaf >springs, and the seat belt anchors. It looks horribly uncomfortable. When >I first looked at those steel flanges, I thought it would rip my pants clean >off and cut me open, but I've never felt them, despite flinging the car >wildly about. > >My car may be wrong, but if it is, it's wrong the same way yours is. In >Morgan terms, that may just make it right.....Others who know what it's >SUPPOSED to look like may be able to assist; all I did was use a measuring >tape on a 33 year old car......caveat requestor! > > > Lannis > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 01:59:02 1999 From: "Greg Solow" To: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" , Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:59:21 -0700 Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards Morgans made during the 50s and 60s used Philippine Mahogany for the dash boards. This is also known as "Luan" For most of this time the dash was a solid piece and not a veneer. I believe that some of the 67 and 68 cars that a veneered dash. Regards, Greg Solow -----Original Message----- From: Vandergraaf, Chuck To: 'Bob Nogueira' Cc: aMORGANS@autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 7:51 AM Subject: RE: Wood Dashboards >A related question: what wood is used in making Morgan dashboards? I >suspect it has changed over the years; mine is a light coloured wood but I >have not been able to identify it yet (for all I know, it may have started >life as an board in a cabinet). The choice of finish will depend on the >type of wood. I hope Morgan never used teak! > >Chuck Vandergraaf >'52 +4 > >> ---------- >> From: Bob Nogueira[SMTP:nogera@prodigy.net] >> Reply To: Bob Nogueira >> Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 10:46 PM >> To: aMORGANS@autox.team.net >> Subject: Wood Dashboards >> >> -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- >> >> Okay folks got a question here. Can I get some input on dashboard >> finishes. >> On the first dashboard I did I used varnish and the result was a >> finish >> which took forever to put on and I never could get it thick enough to >> achieve the glass look. >> Next dash ( same car) I did a filler and clear lacquer finish which looked >> great until I got it into the sun at which point it cracked and turned >> milky >> . >> Since then I have used tung oil, It goes on easy ( rag) and does have a >> nice finish which I imagine to be close to what the original factory >> finish >> was like.( okay old timers, what did a Morgan wood dashboard really look >> like when new ?) Problem is I have to remove the dash and put fresh >> tung >> oil on every year. I don't mind doing it this year since I be removing the >> Dash to update my Dashboard Display computer chips but I'd like to get >> something on the wood that will last more than a year . What have others >> used as a finish? >> >> Bob Nogueira >> >> >> > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 01:59:04 1999 From: "Greg Solow" To: "Jeff Webster" , Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:49:39 -0700 Subject: Re: My kingdom for a good refererence book... originally the area behind the seats on a two seater roadster was rough finished, black painted wood with no covering. The sills just inside the doors were covered with folded and multilayered jute padding, then upolstered with either leather or vinyl depending on how the car was trimed. The inside of the doors were covered with vinyl, the panel to the rear of the door was also vinyl. Under the vinyl covering was a thin layer of cotton padding that is called "glazing" for some reason that I don't understand. The padding was very thin, so that the covering feels "soft" to the touch but does'nt appear to be padded. Regards, Greg Solow -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Webster To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 4:43 AM Subject: My kingdom for a good refererence book... >OK, from what I can gather, it is "normal" for my '58 Plus 4 roadster to >have the battery cable, lighting wires and fuel line running front to back >on the INSIDE of the car on top of the sill boards! >If this is the case, how does the trim cover it to achieve that padded >effect? >And while I'm on the subject of trim, does anyone sell good trim kits? - I'm >not talking about seat covers and the like, but more the stuff that dresses >up the sides and back of the cockpit. >Lastly, regarding replacement door hinges. Is there a good way to rebuild >them (as in do machine shops replace the pins etc.) or does one just bite >the bullet and pay $35 per hinge for new ones? > >Regards. > >Jeff > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 01:59:02 1999 From: "Greg Solow" To: "Jon Callas" , Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 00:27:39 -0700 Subject: Re: Brake joined to the clutch Lubricate your pedal assembly! There are 2 zerk fittings on it. One is on the /brake pedal itself and the other is on the clutch pedal shaft support all the way on the left end of the pedal assembly. There are also two more zerk fittings that need to be lubricated every 3,000 miles or so. One is located under the center of the crossmember at the base of the firewall. It must be reached from underneath the car, and lubricates the right hand end of the clutch pedal shaft. The other is reached through a hole in the top center of the transmission cover once the upholstery is removed from the metal trans. tunnel cover. It is forward of the access hole about 2 inches or so and is aimed up at a 45 degrees angle so that it can be reached with a grease gun through the access hole. This lubricates the throw out bearing where it slides back and forth in the bellhousing. Regards, Greg Solow -----Original Message----- From: Jon Callas To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 9:02 PM Subject: Brake joined to the clutch >I got in the Moggie this morning ('67, +4), and decided to drive it because >it's the first decent day we've had in the Valley in weeks. So I cranked it >up and puttered off, and noticed that -- somehow the clutch pedal and brake >pedal were joined. Push the clutch, the brakes go on. It seems that if I'm >pushing the brake, the clutch pedal moves too. Not good. I poke at it a >bit, and drive it around the block, and the car is acting a lot like a car >acts when the clutch is on its last legs. I drive it back to the driveway, >sulk, and take the Defender. > >Is this something stupid that if I know the right place to bang, the pieces >that have bound together will unbind? Or am I looking at what I fear, a new >clutch? > > Jon > > > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 06:29:02 1999 From: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" To: Jon Callas Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:27:45 -0400 Subject: Re: Brake joined to the clutch When was the last time that put some grease in those little grease nipples (two of them) in your pedal cluster? Have you checked to see if the cluster is still fastened to the car??? Sounds like you might have to unscrew the nipples, put some penetrating oil in there, work the pedals loose, then grease the thing until grease comes out of every pore. Jon Callas wrote: > I got in the Moggie this morning ('67, +4), and decided to drive it because > it's the first decent day we've had in the Valley in weeks. So I cranked it > up and puttered off, and noticed that -- somehow the clutch pedal and brake > pedal were joined. Push the clutch, the brakes go on. It seems that if I'm > pushing the brake, the clutch pedal moves too. Not good. I poke at it a > bit, and drive it around the block, and the car is acting a lot like a car > acts when the clutch is on its last legs. I drive it back to the driveway, > sulk, and take the Defender. > > Is this something stupid that if I know the right place to bang, the pieces > that have bound together will unbind? Or am I looking at what I fear, a new > clutch? > > Jon From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 06:40:35 1999 From: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" To: Jeff Webster , Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:40:01 -0400 Subject: Grease fittings A while ago you asked how many grease fittings. Sunday I went over the car with my handy dandy new pistol grip squeeze grease gun and found: 4 on the steering rack 2 on the bottom of the front suspension 2 inboard of the rear brake drums 2 on the u-joints 2 on the pedal cluster 1 on the spline shaft 1 on the transmission tunnel, up by the firewall 1 on the water pump This on a '57 Plus 4. Are there any other grease fittings?? I also put a drop of oil in each door hinge, on any linkage I can reach (carbs, parking brake, accel. cable at firewall) CB From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 08:12:38 1999 From: deemi@juno.com To: gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 09:06:31 -0700 Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards My notes have "a polished walnut surround" this was for my +4 Super Sport, 1963 I would really like to know if this is Mahagony or walnut. Bob Bowie in Maine Mog SS # 5381 On Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:59:21 -0700 "Greg Solow" writes: >Morgans made during the 50s and 60s used Philippine Mahogany for the >dash >boards. This is also known as "Luan" For most of this time the dash >was a >solid piece and not a veneer. I believe that some of the 67 and 68 >cars >that a veneered dash. Regards, > >Greg >Solow >-----Original Message----- >From: Vandergraaf, Chuck >To: 'Bob Nogueira' >Cc: aMORGANS@autox.team.net >Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 7:51 AM >Subject: RE: Wood Dashboards > > >>A related question: what wood is used in making Morgan dashboards? >I >>suspect it has changed over the years; mine is a light coloured wood >but I >>have not been able to identify it yet (for all I know, it may have >started >>life as an board in a cabinet). The choice of finish will depend on >the >>type of wood. I hope Morgan never used teak! >> >>Chuck Vandergraaf >>'52 +4 >> >>> ---------- >>> From: Bob Nogueira[SMTP:nogera@prodigy.net] >>> Reply To: Bob Nogueira >>> Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 10:46 PM >>> To: aMORGANS@autox.team.net >>> Subject: Wood Dashboards >>> >>> -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- >>> >>> Okay folks got a question here. Can I get some input on dashboard >>> finishes. >>> On the first dashboard I did I used varnish and the result was >a >>> finish >>> which took forever to put on and I never could get it thick enough >to >>> achieve the glass look. >>> Next dash ( same car) I did a filler and clear lacquer finish >which >looked >>> great until I got it into the sun at which point it cracked and >turned >>> milky >>> . >>> Since then I have used tung oil, It goes on easy ( rag) and does >have a >>> nice finish which I imagine to be close to what the original >factory >>> finish >>> was like.( okay old timers, what did a Morgan wood dashboard really >look >>> like when new ?) Problem is I have to remove the dash and put >fresh >>> tung >>> oil on every year. I don't mind doing it this year since I be >removing >the >>> Dash to update my Dashboard Display computer chips but I'd like to >get >>> something on the wood that will last more than a year . What have >others >>> used as a finish? >>> >>> Bob Nogueira >>> >>> >>> >> > Best Regards, Cameron, Lori and Bob Bowie of Maine PO Box 3751 Brewer, Maine 04412 deemi@juno.com From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 08:36:14 1999 From: scott.barrie@CIMtegration.com (Scott Barrie) To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:36:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards >My notes have "a polished walnut surround" > >this was for my +4 Super Sport, 1963 > >I would really like to know if this is Mahagony or walnut. I think walnut, being a domestic wood, would be more likely than mahogany. But it shouldn't be too hard to determine, they look quite different, so anyone who works with wood could tell you at a glance. Scott Barrie '63 Plus Four From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 09:13:13 1999 From: Stephen.Stierman@huntington.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 11:10:42 -0500 Subject: dashboards I have a 69 +8, the dash is probably made from an old Lucas packing crate. It is however; covered with the luxurious black hyde of the English nauga, to give that modern late 60's look. This is of course, complete with high quality Lucas rocker switches of the period. regards, S. Stierman 69 +8 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 09:23:47 1999 From: gdm@po.cwru.edu (David McCoy) To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 11:22:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: dashboards > > >I have a 69 +8, the dash is probably made from an old Lucas packing crate. >It is however; covered with the luxurious black hyde of the English nauga, >to give that modern late 60's look. This is of course, complete with high >quality Lucas rocker switches of the period. > My 66 +4 has a dash also done in "leather". But I am pretty sure its an addition (and a poor one at that). Dave McCoy From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 09:31:12 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: "'deemi@juno.com'" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 11:28:40 -0400 Subject: RE: Wood Dashboards Bob, You can give it the "taste test." From the back of the dashboard, file out small bits of the wood. If it is walnut, it will taste like a piece of a walnut shell (I'm not kidding). Mahogany, I recall, is more open grained than walnut. Cheaper, too! I have another, foolproof test: I'm highly allergic to walnut sawdust. I found this out when I was sanding down the case of a grandfather clock I was building. Within 10 minutes, my eyes started to water and my nose ran like a tap. Mahogany doesn't do that to me. Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 Pinawa, MB > ---------- > From: deemi@juno.com[SMTP:deemi@juno.com] > Sent: Saturday, April 10, 1999 11:06 AM > To: gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com > Cc: Vandergraaf, Chuck; nogera@prodigy.net; morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards > > My notes have "a polished walnut surround" > > this was for my +4 Super Sport, 1963 > > I would really like to know if this is Mahagony or walnut. > > Bob Bowie in Maine > Mog SS # 5381 > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 09:36:17 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: "'morgans@Autox.Team.Net'" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 11:34:42 -0400 Subject: one-shot lubrication I may have raised this question earlier but don't recall having received any response. My '52 +4 ought to have the one-shot lubrication system to oil the front suspension. I can't find it and suspect that the previous owner may have removed it. What does it look like? Where can I find a drawing (I can't find any reference in Fred Sisson's book)? Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 Pinawa, MB From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 10:08:01 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: "'Stanton, John'" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 12:05:59 -0400 Subject: RE: Wood Dashboards Sure, but be sure that you mark it appropriately! Canada Customs and/or Canada Post might become suspicious! TTV > ---------- > From: Stanton, John[SMTP:JStanton@newsamerica.com] > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 10:47 AM > To: Vandergraaf, Chuck; 'deemi@juno.com' > Cc: nogera@prodigy.net; morgans@autox.team.net; > gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com > Subject: RE: Wood Dashboards > > Chuck, > > Can we send sample saw dust for you to sniff? > > JJS > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Vandergraaf, Chuck [SMTP:vandergraaft@aecl.ca] > > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 11:29 AM > > To: 'deemi@juno.com' > > Cc: nogera@prodigy.net; morgans@autox.team.net; > > gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com > > Subject: RE: Wood Dashboards > > > > Bob, > > > > You can give it the "taste test." From the back of the dashboard, file > > out > > small bits of the wood. If it is walnut, it will taste like a piece of > a > > walnut shell (I'm not kidding). > > > > Mahogany, I recall, is more open grained than walnut. Cheaper, too! > > > > I have another, foolproof test: I'm highly allergic to walnut sawdust. > I > > found this out when I was sanding down the case of a grandfather clock I > > was > > building. Within 10 minutes, my eyes started to water and my nose ran > > like > > a tap. Mahogany doesn't do that to me. > > > > Chuck Vandergraaf > > '52 +4 > > Pinawa, MB > > > > > > > > > ---------- > > > From: deemi@juno.com[SMTP:deemi@juno.com] > > > Sent: Saturday, April 10, 1999 11:06 AM > > > To: gregmogdoc@surfnetusa.com > > > Cc: Vandergraaf, Chuck; nogera@prodigy.net; > > morgans@autox.team.net > > > Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards > > > > > > My notes have "a polished walnut surround" > > > > > > this was for my +4 Super Sport, 1963 > > > > > > I would really like to know if this is Mahagony or walnut. > > > > > > Bob Bowie in Maine > > > Mog SS # 5381 > > > > > > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 10:28:50 1999 From: "Vodden, Dave" To: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 17:19:00 -0400 Subject: RE: one-shot lubrication The "one shot" is a metal button on the fire wall about an inch in diameter, usually just above and to the right of the gearbox casing so you can get your foot on it reasonably. That should go through the fire wall and connect to the engine (usually the oil pressure connection) and via a tee piece to 2 tubes which connect to the top of the king pins. The tubes look a lot like brake pipe. If you don't have one don't worry about it just use plenty of grease on the nipple on the hub carriers. My king pins work much better since I stopped using it. The GoMog (Canada) web site has a reference taken from the Thames Valley MSCC site John Worrall's "Original Morgan" has an illustration somewhere. Dave Vodden 1992 Plus 4 4 Seater Hampshire UK ---------- From: Vandergraaf, Chuck To: 'morgans@Autox.Team.Net' Subject: one-shot lubrication Date: 14 April 1999 11:34 I may have raised this question earlier but don't recall having received any response. My '52 +4 ought to have the one-shot lubrication system to oil the front suspension. I can't find it and suspect that the previous owner may have removed it. What does it look like? Where can I find a drawing (I can't find any reference in Fred Sisson's book)? Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 Pinawa, MB From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 10:52:47 1999 From: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" To: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 12:50:50 -0400 Subject: Re: one-shot lubrication Look for a hole in your firewall, up and to the right of the accelerator. That's where the foot-valve went. Then look for some brake lines that end on top of the front suspension, coming from said valve. When I picked up my car ('57 +4) the whole mechanism was there, but not attached. Pushed the valve and squirted oil all over the driveway, road, bystanders, road kill. I remember thinking: "Sheesh! These cars leak more oil than my old Volvo!!" which was a major accomplishment. Chip Brown Vandergraaf, Chuck wrote: > I may have raised this question earlier but don't recall having received any > response. My '52 +4 ought to have the one-shot lubrication system to oil > the front suspension. I can't find it and suspect that the previous owner > may have removed it. > > What does it look like? Where can I find a drawing (I can't find any > reference in Fred Sisson's book)? > > Chuck Vandergraaf > '52 +4 > Pinawa, MB From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 11:03:30 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: "'ebrown@ms.com'" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 12:59:30 -0400 Subject: RE: one-shot lubrication Thanks, Chip; I'll look for it tonight. Your experience with the detached system makes me wonder if this system could be modified to act as an anti-theft device. I saw something on TV not so long ago about an anti-theft device in South Africa that shoots a flame from underneath the car to ward off would-be thieves (car theft is apparently becoming a national pastime is the RSA). I would think a jet of Castrol might just be appropriate for a Morgan. Chuck Vandergraaf (tongue in cheek) '52 +4 Pinawa, MB (where car theft is practically unheard of) > ---------- > From: Ernest(Chip) Brown[SMTP:ebrown@ms.com] > Reply To: ebrown@ms.com > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 11:50 AM > To: Vandergraaf, Chuck > Cc: 'morgans@Autox.Team.Net' > Subject: Re: one-shot lubrication > > Look for a hole in your firewall, up and to the right of the accelerator. > That's > where the foot-valve went. Then look for some brake lines that end on top > of the > front suspension, coming from said valve. When I picked up my car ('57 +4) > the > whole mechanism was there, but not attached. Pushed the valve and squirted > oil > all over the driveway, road, bystanders, road kill. I remember thinking: > "Sheesh! These cars leak more oil than my old Volvo!!" which was a major > accomplishment. > > Chip Brown > > Vandergraaf, Chuck wrote: > > > I may have raised this question earlier but don't recall having received > any > > response. My '52 +4 ought to have the one-shot lubrication system to > oil > > the front suspension. I can't find it and suspect that the previous > owner > > may have removed it. > > > > What does it look like? Where can I find a drawing (I can't find any > > reference in Fred Sisson's book)? > > > > Chuck Vandergraaf > > '52 +4 > > Pinawa, MB > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 15:10:32 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 17:07:41 -0400 Subject: Monster Lug Nuts! Hi Gang, OK, I tried to remove the rear wheels today, to get a look at the brakes. I got the hub cap off my '58 Plus 4 but as I began to loosen the lug nuts I noticed that the studs were turning too! Is there something I'm missing? Or is the only way I'm gonna get my wheels off - to remove the castlated nut and pull the wheel off complete with drum! Suggestions please. Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 17:40:38 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 19:20:11 -0400 Subject: RE: Wood Dashboards At 11:28 AM 4/14/99 -0400, Chuck Vandergraaf wrote: >I have another, foolproof test: I'm highly allergic to walnut sawdust. I >found this out when I was sanding down the case of a grandfather clock I was >building. Within 10 minutes, my eyes started to water and my nose ran like >a tap. Mahogany doesn't do that to me. So everyone, sand a little bit of the back of your dashes, and put the sawdust in an envelope and mail it to Chuck. We can let him give them the scratch and sniff test :) John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 17:40:44 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 19:31:03 -0400 Subject: Re: Monster Lug Nuts! At 05:07 PM 4/14/99 -0400, Jeff Webster wrote: >OK, I tried to remove the rear wheels today, to get a look at the brakes. >I got the hub cap off my '58 Plus 4 but as I began to loosen the lug nuts I >noticed that the studs were turning too! >Is there something I'm missing? Or is the only way I'm gonna get my wheels >off - to remove the castlated nut and pull the wheel off complete with drum! > >Suggestions please. Jeff, - sounds good to me!! John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 17:40:44 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 19:24:54 -0400 Subject: Re: one-shot lubrication At 11:34 AM 4/14/99 -0400, Chuck Vandergraaf wrote: >I may have raised this question earlier but don't recall having received any >response. My '52 +4 ought to have the one-shot lubrication system to oil >the front suspension. I can't find it and suspect that the previous owner >may have removed it. > >What does it look like? Where can I find a drawing (I can't find any >reference in Fred Sisson's book)? Chuck, it is a large brass fitting on the front of the firewall, dead center. It has 2 metal lines comming to it that look like break lines. There is a 3rd line that is a flexible line. So on the inside of the car, there will be a brass knob at the firewall (on a 4/4 - it's right over the xmission tunnel). The 2 steel lines will go down each of the vallances to the top of the king pin under the front wings. Other than for authentisity, they really didn't work out. I shouldn't say that. They do an excellent job of keeping the front wings and wire wheels from rusting. But as to their intended purpose of extending the live of the king pins, it didn't really work. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 18:04:44 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: "'John T. Blair'" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 20:04:03 -0400 Subject: RE: Wood Dashboards John Blair wrote, "So everyone, sand a little bit of the back of your dashes, and put the sawdust in an envelope and mail it to Chuck. We can let him give them the scratch and sniff test :)" Clever! I probably deserve this. ;-) Good to see that we can all rise to the occasion and have a good sense of humour. Thanks, John. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 18:06:02 1999 From: Linda & Nelson Warner To: "Jeff Webster" , Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 20:04:54 -0400 Subject: Sill boards! --============_-1287987770==_ma============ Jeff writes: >If this is the case, how does the trim cover it to achieve that padded >effect? Jeff, Rather than using jute or a similar water absorbing type padding I used a "closed cell" mat. The mat is the type that back packers might use under their sleeping bag. I first read of this in "Miscellany" several years ago. The pad is about 3/8" thick and is available in the camping section of many stores. After trial fitting the mat to the sills I used contact cement to attach the Naugahide. The top is left long enough to be tacked at the top door edge. The bottom is held in place with Velcro. This makes it easy to open enough to clean and let dry out. Nelson The road goes on forever... --============_-1287987770==_ma============ Jeff writes: >If this is the case, how does the trim cover it to achieve that padded >effect? Jeff, right,leftRather than using jute or a similar water absorbing type padding I used a "closed cell" mat. The mat is the type that back packers might use under their sleeping bag. I first read of this in "Miscellany" several years ago. The pad is about 3/8" thick and is available in the camping section of many stores. After trial fitting the mat to the sills I used contact cement to attach the Naugahide. The top is left long enough to be tacked at the top door edge. The bottom is held in place with Velcro. This makes it easy to open enough to clean and let dry out. 0000,0000,FFFFNelson The road goes on forever... --============_-1287987770==_ma============-- From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 18:07:31 1999 From: Bob Tescione To: "John T. Blair" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 20:09:52 -0400 Subject: Re: one-shot lubrication John T. Blair wrote: ... They do an excellent job of keeping the front wings and wire wheels > from rusting. But as to their intended purpose of extending the live of the king pins, it didn't really work. > > John > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net > Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 John and other experienced Morganeers: What is the currently recommended way of doing up the front suspension for lubrication purposes? From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 18:10:31 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: "'John T. Blair'" Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 20:09:45 -0400 Subject: RE: one-shot lubrication John (and all the others who responded to my question about one-shot lubrication) Thanks to all for your response. I did find the location on the firewall, and all there is a largish hole and two smaller holes, probably to put bolts through. No lines, no brass fitting and no brass knob. Guess the previous owner (or one of the previous owners) must have agreed with most of you that this method of lubrication was not what it may have been cracked up to be. Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 > Chuck, it is a large brass fitting on the front of the firewall, dead > center. > It has 2 metal lines comming to it that look like break lines. There is a > 3rd line that is a flexible line. So on the inside of the car, there will > be a brass knob at the firewall (on a 4/4 - it's right over the xmission > tunnel). The 2 steel lines will go down each of the vallances to the top > of the king pin under the front wings. > > Other than for authentisity, they really didn't work out. I shouldn't say > that. They do an excellent job of keeping the front wings and wire wheels > from rusting. But as to their intended purpose of extending the live of > the > king pins, it didn't really work. > > John > > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net > Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V > 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire > > www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 18:20:46 1999 From: Bob Nogueira To: Jeff Webster , Date: Wed, 14 Apr 99 19:18:44 -0500 Subject: Re:Sill covers & Lucas -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- To add to Johns post here, I used auto carpet padding ( Jute) and built up one layer at time to fit over the sill plate, the last layer runs from the door sill to the floor. All of the layers being held together with spray contact cement. Makes a nice one piece unit which is not attached to the sill and is held only by the cover. For the cover I tacked under the door sill plate and used snaps on the floor with velcro on the ends. This works really well as the velcro allows me to keep the cover tight and the snaps allow for a quick removal of the padding after a drive in the rain. All those chassis sills rotted from contact with wet horse hair . Another innovation was to glue the rubber floor mat to a sheet of aluminum cut to the same pattern as the mat. It never pulls loose and bunches up under my feet and cleaning is accomplished by lifting it out and taping it on the ground Regarding the Lucas Issue, the use of Motorcraft (yes Will, a Ford product) Dielectric Compound (grease) on all connections, bulbs and fuses has prevented corrosion and the resulting blackouts. And thanks to everyone for the input regarding the dashboard finish. Bob Nogueira -------- REPLY, Original message follows -------- > Date: Tuesday, 13-Apr-99 05:47 PM > > From: Blair John \ Internet: (jblair@exis.net) > To: Jeff Webster \ Internet: (carfindr@tiac.net) > To: MORGANS \ Internet: (morgans@autox.team.net) > > Subject: Re: My kingdom for a good refererence book... > > At 07:34 AM 4/13/99 -0400, Jeff Webster wrote: > > >My kingdom for a good refererence book... > > For starters Jeff, between Fred's book and my Morgan web page, you have one > hell-of-a start. Next with this list, you can't ask for much more. > > >If this is the case, how does the trim cover it to achieve that padded > >effect? > > There is "horse hair" similar to jute glued to the vertical wall of the > chassis, and layed over the flat part of the sill plate. Then the leather is > set on top of the horse hair. Starting at the top outer edge (in the door way) > it is tacked down with escrution (sp) pins - small nails. However, "todays > 'mercian technology" is to use a air powered staple gun to tack it down. The > working from the center out continue tacking along the sill plate. Then work on > smoothing it down the vertical wall of the chassis, and tack it to the floor > boards. > > I made some comments about this in one of my articles, I was thinking about > trying to make it more eaisly removable from the floor boards so you could lift > the leather to let the horse hair dry out when it gets wet. Haven't done > anything about that yet. > > > John > > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net > Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V > 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire > > www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi > > -------- REPLY, End of original message -------- From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 19:01:14 1999 From: Steve Moore To: "John T. Blair" , morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 11:01:41 +1000 Subject: Re: one-shot lubrication >Other than for authentisity, they really didn't work out. I shouldn't say >that. They do an excellent job of keeping the front wings and wire wheels >from rusting. But as to their intended purpose of extending the live of the >king pins, it didn't really work. >John > > >John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net >Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V >71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire > Not so John, I had converted my 4/4 from the one shot system to grease nipples but recently changed it back. The recommendation is to use molybdenum disuplphite grease in the front suspension. The trouble is that this grease tends to weep and dry out. The one shot system is great at replacing the lost fluid. If the system is leaking oil everywhere then you are using it too often or your kingpin bushes are shot. The major wear in the front end is at the bottom bush and is mainly due to dust getting in the excess grease and effectively turning it into grinding paste. The top bush is protected by the dust cover that sits inside the top coil spring. A good solution to this is to fit an oil seal under the stub axle (above the rebound spring). This reqires having a cup machined which will take the seal and fit snugly around the bottom of the stub axle. The kigpins are 1" diameter and thin seals of this dimension are available at most stockists. Leather is best but becoming hard to find. Hard chroming the kingpins helps also as does the use of bushes made out of the newer nylon based materials. The trouble is that you have to find someone who really knows what they're doing to ream these nylon bushes. Cheers Steve Stephen S. Moore Principal Research Scientist Beef CRC Molecular Genetics Sub Program Leader CSIRO, Tropical Agriculture Molecular Animal Genetics Centre Level 3, Gehrmann Laboratories University of Queensland, St. Lucia, 4072 ph 61 7 3214 2476 fax 61 7 3214 2480 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 19:32:16 1999 From: Gary Kneisley To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:31:55 -0400 Subject: Re: Grease fittings >Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:15:21 -0400 >To: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" >From: Gary Kneisley >Subject: Re: Grease fittings > >Anybody have experience with newer +8's? I am told there are 10, but so far I've only found four. > >Gary >1991 +8 >R10432 > > >At 08:40 AM 4/14/99 -0400, you wrote: >>A while ago you asked how many grease fittings. Sunday I went over the >>car with my handy dandy new pistol grip squeeze grease gun and found: >> >>4 on the steering rack >>2 on the bottom of the front suspension >>2 inboard of the rear brake drums >>2 on the u-joints >>2 on the pedal cluster >>1 on the spline shaft >>1 on the transmission tunnel, up by the firewall >>1 on the water pump >> >>This on a '57 Plus 4. Are there any other grease fittings?? I also put a >>drop of oil in each door hinge, on any linkage I can reach (carbs, >>parking brake, accel. cable at firewall) >> >>CB >> >> >> > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 14 20:10:11 1999 From: "Vern Dale-Johnson" To: "Michael D. Miles, PE" , Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:14:54 -0400 Subject: Re: Who Needs Y2K When We Have Lucas! Michael: Thanks for the reminder to all the wet coasters (and visitors) re the Van Dusen ABFM. It is a great event (from all reports as I continue to be busy during that weekend but will eventually get there!). By the way, British Car Day held each September at Bronte Creek Park in Toronto takes the prize as largest British meet in Canada. Last year over 1000 Brits were registered and on the field (plus several hundred in the parking lot -- why they don't participate I'll never figure out). Vern DJ -----Original Message----- From: Michael D. Miles, PE To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: April 12, 1999 7:41 PM Subject: Who Needs Y2K When We Have Lucas! >Need I say more (or did someone else beat me to it)? > >What and where are you on May 22? The 1999 Vancouver BC All British >Field Meet will take place on Saturday May 22, 1999, Victoria Day >weekend. The annual garden party in celebration of the British motor >car is now in its fourteenth year and is the largest in Canada, with >well over 400 entries. > >Follow the URL to find out more and register on-line. If you just >CAN'T manage to bring the Mog then show up anyway and have a splendid >time chinning with those who did. > >http://www.direct.ca/driver begin 666 Vern Dale-Johnson.vcf M0D5'24XZ5D-!4D0-"E9%4E-)3TXZ,BXQ#0I..D1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;CM697)N M#0I&3CI697)N($1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;@T*14U!24P[4%)%1CM)3E1%4DY%5#IV M97)N+F1A;&4M:F]H;G-O;D!M961T To: , , Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:10:50 -0400 Subject: Re: nix Y2K in Mogs Right on, Jim! Obviously some of the listers like pics but ready stymies them! Dennis even gave that info in the article. Vern DJ -----Original Message----- From: Jhalfdime@aol.com To: zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU ; morgans@autox.team.net Date: April 12, 1999 7:24 PM Subject: Re: nix Y2K in Mogs >Sorry, Will...a +4 4seater, as Dennis Siminaitis, R & T Tech editor, and >author of the piece, owns & drives. > Tractor engines & V-Twins forever!! > Cheers & Happy Morganing, > Jim Nichol begin 666 Vern Dale-Johnson.vcf M0D5'24XZ5D-!4D0-"E9%4E-)3TXZ,BXQ#0I..D1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;CM697)N M#0I&3CI697)N($1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;@T*14U!24P[4%)%1CM)3E1%4DY%5#IV M97)N+F1A;&4M:F]H;G-O;D!M961T To: "Greg Solow" , Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:20:11 -0400 Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards I support Greg's comment re urethane. I've just redone several panels for the interior of OLBDII (dash is next!) and used the Minwax outdoor urethane, primarily designed for marine use. Those I've talked to, including antique boat owners, swear by the stuff. Vern DJ -----Original Message----- From: Greg Solow To: Bob Nogueira ; aMORGANS@autox.team.net Date: April 13, 1999 3:14 AM Subject: Re: Wood Dashboards >I use a sealer and then polyurethane clear on my dash and it has the same >color as when new although with is smoother and glossier finish. It was >last refinished about 10 years ago and still looks like new! > Regards, >Greg Solow >-----Original Message----- >From: Bob Nogueira >To: aMORGANS@autox.team.net >Date: Monday, April 12, 1999 8:59 PM >Subject: Wood Dashboards > > >>-- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- >> >>Okay folks got a question here. Can I get some input on dashboard finishes. >>On the first dashboard I did I used varnish and the result was a finish >>which took forever to put on and I never could get it thick enough to >>achieve the glass look. >>Next dash ( same car) I did a filler and clear lacquer finish which looked >>great until I got it into the sun at which point it cracked and turned >milky >>. >>Since then I have used tung oil, It goes on easy ( rag) and does have a >>nice finish which I imagine to be close to what the original factory finish >>was like.( okay old timers, what did a Morgan wood dashboard really look >>like when new ?) Problem is I have to remove the dash and put fresh tung >>oil on every year. I don't mind doing it this year since I be removing the >>Dash to update my Dashboard Display computer chips but I'd like to get >>something on the wood that will last more than a year . What have others >>used as a finish? >> >>Bob Nogueira >> >> >> >> > begin 666 Vern Dale-Johnson.vcf M0D5'24XZ5D-!4D0-"E9%4E-)3TXZ,BXQ#0I..D1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;CM697)N M#0I&3CI697)N($1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;@T*14U!24P[4%)%1CM)3E1%4DY%5#IV M97)N+F1A;&4M:F]H;G-O;D!M961T To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 23:11:32 -0400 Subject: Re: one-shot lubrication Vandergraaf, Chuck wrote: I would think a jet of Castrol might just be > appropriate for a Morgan. > > Chuck Vandergraaf (tongue in cheek) I think a smoke-bomb under the dash would be more appropriate for a '57 Plus 4. Ben Palmer From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 02:16:01 1999 From: GOLDMAN To: Bob Tescione , Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 04:18:01 -0400 Subject: Re: one-shot lubrication I am not the expert with the front suspension as some but I recently changed my front bushes and pins and tested a number of options. Here are our observations; 1. the one shot oiler system (if it is working) washes out any quality of grease if the motor has run more than a very few minutes before it has been used.. 2. anything but absolutely clean motor oil is a risk to the lubrication process though clean oil washes grease out better than dirty oil. (weird but true) 3. a high quality grease definitively can flow through the channel in the kingpin, then through the tiny lubrication hole and run between the kingpins and bushes. 4. grease is a better bushing lubricant than dirty motor oil. 5. hard chromed kingpins create less friction between the kingpins and their bushes and presumably will then allow the bushes to last longer. 6. bushes should not only be HONED rather than reamed but also honed and aligned (if you didn't understand that from the start)....a good machine shop will have a honer and also the necessary equipment to measure the perfect alignment of the bushes... So, for my money, unscrew the one-shot oiler line from the kingpin bolt and secure it with tie wraps..(never know when something better will be invented that needs it), replace the lines with two grease nipples and grease every 1000 miles or so...this experiment will cost you the price of two grease nipples (50 cents each) and 15 minutes of time. Good luck Bob Tescione wrote: > John T. Blair wrote: > ... They do an excellent job of keeping the front wings and wire wheels > > from rusting. But as to their intended purpose of extending the live of the king pins, it didn't really work. > > > > John > > > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net > > Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > John and other experienced Morganeers: > What is the currently recommended way of doing up the front suspension > for lubrication purposes? From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 05:26:19 1999 From: "John Harrigan" To: Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 20:58:11 +0930 Subject: Cov Climax diff ratio Hi, My 1937 Coventy Climax 4-4 lacks acceleration. It takes 30 seconds for 0 - 50 mph I have a recon motor. and a Meadows g/box. I know the diff ratio should be 5.0:1 I have a 4,7:1 diff ratio in the car now. Has any one put a 5.5:1 diff ratio in to their 4-4 and did it improve the acceleration? Also any one with a Cov/Climax motor : what mods have you done for extra power?? John Harrigan (Australia) From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 05:42:47 1999 From: "Blair, John" To: "'Bob Nogueira'" , Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 07:41:27 -0400 Subject: RE: Sill covers & Lucas Bob Nogueira wrote: >Regarding the Lucas Issue, the use of Motorcraft (yes Will, a Ford product) >Dielectric Compound (grease) on all connections, bulbs and fuses has >prevented corrosion and the resulting blackouts. To continue this thought for a second. As anyone come up with a good way to Clean old dirty contacts before applying the dielectric compound. I've tried using Sandpaper on Popsicle sticks, screwdrivers, and knifes. The sandpaper works Best but ONLY if you have access to the connector - like a grounding eyelet. I haven't found anything for cleaning the female spade clips. For those that aren't initiated into the problems of an old wiring harness, the Solution seems very easy, cut the old connector off, and simply solder a new One on. The problem with this, is that if the connector is tarnished, you can bet The wire is also. This tarnish, will NOT let solder adhere to the wire. So you have to cut a little more wire off looking for a clean spot. I've cut over 3 feet back on a wire looking for clean wire that I could solder to with on luck. Oh, the joys of playing with old cars. John John T. Blair jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake Chesapeake, Va (757) 523-8133 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Nogueira [SMTP:nogera@prodigy.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 8:19 PM To: Jeff Webster; aMORGANS@autox.team.net; Blair John Subject: Re:Sill covers & Lucas -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- To add to Johns post here, I used auto carpet padding ( Jute) and built up one layer at time to fit over the sill plate, the last layer runs from the door sill to the floor. All of the layers being held together with spray contact cement. Makes a nice one piece unit which is not attached to the sill and is held only by the cover. For the cover I tacked under the door sill plate and used snaps on the floor with velcro on the ends. This works really well as the velcro allows me to keep the cover tight and the snaps allow for a quick removal of the padding after a drive in the rain. All those chassis sills rotted from contact with wet horse hair . Another innovation was to glue the rubber floor mat to a sheet of aluminum cut to the same pattern as the mat. It never pulls loose and bunches up under my feet and cleaning is accomplished by lifting it out and taping it on the ground Regarding the Lucas Issue, the use of Motorcraft (yes Will, a Ford product) Dielectric Compound (grease) on all connections, bulbs and fuses has prevented corrosion and the resulting blackouts. And thanks to everyone for the input regarding the dashboard finish. Bob Nogueira -------- REPLY, Original message follows -------- > Date: Tuesday, 13-Apr-99 05:47 PM > > From: Blair John \ Internet: (jblair@exis.net) > To: Jeff Webster \ Internet: (carfindr@tiac.net) > To: MORGANS \ Internet: (morgans@autox.team.net) > > Subject: Re: My kingdom for a good refererence book... > > At 07:34 AM 4/13/99 -0400, Jeff Webster wrote: > > >My kingdom for a good refererence book... > > For starters Jeff, between Fred's book and my Morgan web page, you have one > hell-of-a start. Next with this list, you can't ask for much more. > > >If this is the case, how does the trim cover it to achieve that padded > >effect? > > There is "horse hair" similar to jute glued to the vertical wall of the > chassis, and layed over the flat part of the sill plate. Then the leather is > set on top of the horse hair. Starting at the top outer edge (in the door way) > it is tacked down with escrution (sp) pins - small nails. However, "todays > 'mercian technology" is to use a air powered staple gun to tack it down. The > working from the center out continue tacking along the sill plate. Then work on > smoothing it down the vertical wall of the chassis, and tack it to the floor > boards. > > I made some comments about this in one of my articles, I was thinking about > trying to make it more eaisly removable from the floor boards so you could lift > the leather to let the horse hair dry out when it gets wet. Haven't done > anything about that yet. > > > John > > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net > Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V > 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire > > www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi > > -------- REPLY, End of original message -------- From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 08:14:21 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: steve.moore@tag.csiro.au, jblair@exis.net, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 07:12:53 -0700 Subject: RE: one-shot lubrication Steve, We have found that the easiest way to put in a seal is to drive the bottom bush in about an extra 3/16 inch and then using a 1/8 inch piece cut from the old bush to hold an "O" ring in the assembly. This keeps the oil in and the dirt out. Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve Moore [SMTP:steve.moore@tag.csiro.au] > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 6:02 PM > To: John T. Blair; morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: one-shot lubrication > > >Other than for authentisity, they really didn't work out. I shouldn't > say > >that. They do an excellent job of keeping the front wings and wire > wheels > >from rusting. But as to their intended purpose of extending the live of > the > >king pins, it didn't really work. > > >John > > > > > >John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net > >Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > > > 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V > >71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire > > > > Not so John, > > I had converted my 4/4 from the one shot system to grease nipples but > recently changed it back. The recommendation is to use molybdenum > disuplphite grease in the front suspension. The trouble is that this > grease > tends to weep and dry out. The one shot system is great at replacing the > lost fluid. If the system is leaking oil everywhere then you are using it > too often or your kingpin bushes are shot. > > The major wear in the front end is at the bottom bush and is mainly due to > dust getting in the excess grease and effectively turning it into grinding > paste. The top bush is protected by the dust cover that sits inside the > top > coil spring. A good solution to this is to fit an oil seal under the stub > axle (above the rebound spring). This reqires having a cup machined which > will take the seal and fit snugly around the bottom of the stub axle. The > kigpins are 1" diameter and thin seals of this dimension are available at > most stockists. Leather is best but becoming hard to find. > > Hard chroming the kingpins helps also as does the use of bushes made out > of > the newer nylon based materials. The trouble is that you have to find > someone who really knows what they're doing to ream these nylon bushes. > > Cheers > > Steve > > > > Stephen S. Moore > Principal Research Scientist > Beef CRC Molecular Genetics Sub Program Leader > CSIRO, Tropical Agriculture > Molecular Animal Genetics Centre > Level 3, Gehrmann Laboratories > University of Queensland, St. Lucia, 4072 > > ph 61 7 3214 2476 > fax 61 7 3214 2480 > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 09:00:00 1999 From: "Gary" To: "Morgan Mail List" , Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:04:16 +0800 Subject: RE: Sill covers & Lucas Re: cleaning contacts. From my model railway interests, the best cleaner is a 10% solution of phosphoric acid which is used as a cleaner/flux for soldering. If you wash it off with water and let it dry then it should provide a perfect surface for your Dielectric Compound. I'd guess the best source are electronics shops or hobby shops. Cheers Gary Arcus Western Australia 1954 +4 > > Bob Nogueira wrote: > > >Regarding the Lucas Issue, the use of Motorcraft (yes Will, a Ford > product) > >Dielectric Compound (grease) on all connections, bulbs and fuses has > >prevented corrosion and the resulting blackouts. > > To continue this thought for a second. As anyone come up with a > good way to > Clean old dirty contacts before applying the dielectric compound. [snip] > John T. Blair > jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil > SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake > Chesapeake, Va (757) 523-8133 > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 09:34:54 1999 From: "F Kuzyk" To: "Blair, John" , Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 11:31:08 -0400 Subject: Re: Sill covers & Lucas John et al, I've had good success in the past cleaning female connectors with "TV Tuner Cleaner". The aerosol cans made for mechanical tuners was effective at cleaning hidden contacts & connectors. Try electronics suppliers. It may be harder to get these days, as digital tuners are all so common. A single can has lasted me for years, not only for old TV sets but for by auto electric problems. John mentions the problems with using connectors from old harnesses, but as mentioned in earlier posts there are a number of companies that can supply new auto-electric connectors, plugs, & bits. The copper wire can also be cleaned with mild acids & such. Cheers, Fred Kuzyk MSCCC Webmaster Visit the Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada Web site at: http://members.xoom.com/msccc/ For info on cigars, local cigar clubs & events, etc; visit my other web site Holy Smokes http://members.xoom.com/holysmokes/ -----Original Message----- From: Blair, John To: 'Bob Nogueira' ; 'morgans@autox.team.net' Date: Thursday, April 15, 1999 7:53 AM Subject: RE: Sill covers & Lucas >Bob Nogueira wrote: > >>Regarding the Lucas Issue, the use of Motorcraft (yes Will, a Ford >product) >>Dielectric Compound (grease) on all connections, bulbs and fuses has >>prevented corrosion and the resulting blackouts. > >To continue this thought for a second. As anyone come up with a good way to >Clean old dirty contacts before applying the dielectric compound. I've >tried using >Sandpaper on Popsicle sticks, screwdrivers, and knifes. The sandpaper works >Best but ONLY if you have access to the connector - like a grounding eyelet. >I haven't found anything for cleaning the female spade clips. > >For those that aren't initiated into the problems of an old wiring harness, >the >Solution seems very easy, cut the old connector off, and simply solder a new > >One on. The problem with this, is that if the connector is tarnished, you >can bet >The wire is also. This tarnish, will NOT let solder adhere to the wire. So >you have >to cut a little more wire off looking for a clean spot. I've cut over 3 >feet back on a >wire looking for clean wire that I could solder to with on luck. > >Oh, the joys of playing with old cars. > >John > > >John T. Blair >jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil >SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake >Chesapeake, Va (757) 523-8133 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Nogueira [SMTP:nogera@prodigy.net] > Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 8:19 PM > To: Jeff Webster; aMORGANS@autox.team.net; Blair John > Subject: Re:Sill covers & Lucas > > -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- > > To add to Johns post here, I used auto carpet padding ( Jute) and >built up > one layer at time to fit over the sill plate, the last layer runs >from the > door sill to the floor. All of the layers being held together with >spray > contact cement. Makes a nice one piece unit which is not attached >to the > sill and is held only by the cover. > For the cover I tacked under the door sill plate and used snaps on >the floor > with velcro on the ends. This works really well as the velcro allows >me to > keep the cover tight and the snaps allow for a quick removal of the >padding > after a drive in the rain. All those chassis sills rotted from >contact > with wet horse hair . > Another innovation was to glue the rubber floor mat to a sheet of >aluminum > cut to the same pattern as the mat. It never pulls loose and >bunches up > under my feet and cleaning is accomplished by lifting it out and >taping it > on the ground > > Regarding the Lucas Issue, the use of Motorcraft (yes Will, a Ford >product) > Dielectric Compound (grease) on all connections, bulbs and fuses >has > prevented corrosion and the resulting blackouts. > And thanks to everyone for the input regarding the dashboard >finish. > > Bob Nogueira > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 12:11:26 1999 From: FPS3@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 14:09:08 EDT Subject: Kingpins & bush I am lazy... & don't worry much about winning shows.. so I let the grease build up in the rebound spring to protect the pin from dirt. Actually I have leather gaitors on the trike rebound springs to hold the grease and look rather vintage also. The O-ring is a rather neat idea & I may do it next time on the +4. Also there are seals made for hydraulic rams that could be fitted. They are made for keeping/scraping dirt. Still in all- the gaitors & grease have served me well. We have a gritty road dust in GA that makes wonderful grinding compound when mixed with grease/oil & anything to keep the stuff off of the bush is a plus. fred sisson From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 12:55:17 1999 From: Tony Oliver To: Michael & Arlin Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 14:52:29 -0400 Subject: Trip Hi all Made it safe back to UK but now don't know what day it is! Thanks to all for the hospitality and warm welcome. We look forward to meeting up with some of you in Stirling and hope that those whose Morgans have turned into potential trophies soon have the problems resolved. Met up with Bill Fink before we left so we now know what goes on at Isis. To those we missed a warning, We'll be back! Tony & Mary From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 16:14:54 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 17:35:14 -0400 Subject: Re: Sill covers & Lucas At 11:31 AM 4/15/99 -0400, Fred Kuzyk wrote: >John et al, >I've had good success in the past cleaning female connectors with "TV Tuner >Cleaner". The aerosol cans made for mechanical tuners was effective at >cleaning hidden contacts & connectors. Try electronics suppliers. It may be >harder to get these days, as digital tuners are all so common. A single can >has lasted me for years, not only for old TV sets but for by auto electric >problems. I've used TV cleaner in the past. However last can I purchased was quite some time ago and the price was going through the ceiling. I've also used tarnex without much success. >John mentions the problems with using connectors from old >harnesses, but as mentioned in earlier posts there are a number of companies >that can supply new auto-electric connectors, plugs, & bits. The copper wire >can also be cleaned with mild acids & such. I probably should have put a few more words in that comment. The problem is NOT the bullet connectors. It is usually the spade type connectors, or some of the odd ball connectors from some of my other cars. But even with new connectors, I prefer to crimp & solder the connector to the wire if I have to replace the connector. If the connector is badly rusted, and corroded, I've found that so is the wire. This makes soldering a connector or another piece of wire to the original wire almost impossible. John > >Cheers, >Fred Kuzyk >MSCCC Webmaster >Visit the Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada Web site at: >http://members.xoom.com/msccc/ > >For info on cigars, local cigar clubs & events, etc; visit my other web site >Holy Smokes >http://members.xoom.com/holysmokes/ > >-----Original Message----- >From: Blair, John >To: 'Bob Nogueira' ; 'morgans@autox.team.net' > >Date: Thursday, April 15, 1999 7:53 AM >Subject: RE: Sill covers & Lucas > > >>Bob Nogueira wrote: >> >>>Regarding the Lucas Issue, the use of Motorcraft (yes Will, a Ford >>product) >>>Dielectric Compound (grease) on all connections, bulbs and fuses has >>>prevented corrosion and the resulting blackouts. >> >>To continue this thought for a second. As anyone come up with a good way >to >>Clean old dirty contacts before applying the dielectric compound. I've >>tried using >>Sandpaper on Popsicle sticks, screwdrivers, and knifes. The sandpaper >works >>Best but ONLY if you have access to the connector - like a grounding >eyelet. >>I haven't found anything for cleaning the female spade clips. >> >>For those that aren't initiated into the problems of an old wiring harness, >>the >>Solution seems very easy, cut the old connector off, and simply solder a >new >> >>One on. The problem with this, is that if the connector is tarnished, you >>can bet >>The wire is also. This tarnish, will NOT let solder adhere to the wire. >So >>you have >>to cut a little more wire off looking for a clean spot. I've cut over 3 >>feet back on a >>wire looking for clean wire that I could solder to with on luck. >> >>Oh, the joys of playing with old cars. >> >>John >> >> >>John T. Blair >>jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil >>SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake >>Chesapeake, Va (757) 523-8133 >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Bob Nogueira [SMTP:nogera@prodigy.net] >> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 8:19 PM >> To: Jeff Webster; aMORGANS@autox.team.net; Blair John >> Subject: Re:Sill covers & Lucas >> >> -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- >> >> To add to Johns post here, I used auto carpet padding ( Jute) and >>built up >> one layer at time to fit over the sill plate, the last layer runs >>from the >> door sill to the floor. All of the layers being held together with >>spray >> contact cement. Makes a nice one piece unit which is not attached >>to the >> sill and is held only by the cover. >> For the cover I tacked under the door sill plate and used snaps on >>the floor >> with velcro on the ends. This works really well as the velcro allows >>me to >> keep the cover tight and the snaps allow for a quick removal of the >>padding >> after a drive in the rain. All those chassis sills rotted from >>contact >> with wet horse hair . >> Another innovation was to glue the rubber floor mat to a sheet of >>aluminum >> cut to the same pattern as the mat. It never pulls loose and >>bunches up >> under my feet and cleaning is accomplished by lifting it out and >>taping it >> on the ground >> >> Regarding the Lucas Issue, the use of Motorcraft (yes Will, a Ford >>product) >> Dielectric Compound (grease) on all connections, bulbs and fuses >>has >> prevented corrosion and the resulting blackouts. >> And thanks to everyone for the input regarding the dashboard >>finish. >> >> Bob Nogueira >> > > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 18:21:26 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 20:17:42 -0400 Subject: re: Monster Lug Nuts (Part Deux) Well I have discovered a couple of things since we last spoke. Firstly, that the PO or someone, had over tightened the lug nuts on that wheel - with the result that two lug bolts had stripped threads in the hub, one sheared off and the last one came off OK. The other thing is, that the studs aren't welded in but rather, simply screwed in and center punched from the back in such a way to splay the stud so it can be unscrewed. Now I am staring the rear Brakes on my 58 + 4. I find one siezed adjuster, (now free, after some persuasion with a torch) and a non returning brake mechanism. I gather from inspecting this particular set up, that the brake slave cylinder is supposed to move up and down when the brakes are applied, (in order to push the lower shoe out when the upper one does) - that brings me to the question de jour - I have to apply some kind of lubricant to this slave cylinder, but what? A dab of high temp grease? Graphite? Light oil? Suggestions please. Regards, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 18:44:31 1999 From: toad To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 20:46:01 -0400 Subject: Mr. David Peel Brethren Would any of our fellow Morgan enthusiasts in UK know of a Mr. David Peel. He was the last UK owner of my '33 Super Sport and I would certainly appreciate the opportunity to talk to him? Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks All Toad From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 20:19:57 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:18:50 -0400 Subject: re: Hub Puller Hi There, This hub puller that is used to remove the rear hubs om my '58 +4, What does it look like? Three prong, four prong ? Is it something my local rental store might have? Bear in mind that the hub that I have to get off - only has one stud left in it! I guess I could put a nut and bolt through the other three holes, ut I have to drill one out, and the other two have stripped threads! Why can't life be simple? Regards, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 21:13:00 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: carfindr@tiac.net, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:01:42 EDT Subject: Re: Hub Puller In a message dated 4/15/99 22:27:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, carfindr@tiac.net writes: << Why can't life be simple? Regards, Jeff >> Jeff - Life CAN be simple. You just buy a 1999 Dodge Neon instead of a 41-year-old hand-cobbled tractor-engined English car manufactured with a jigsaw and a pair of tinsnips, and EH VOILA! The simple life. But we're long, long past that, I'm afraid....... Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 15 22:37:32 1999 From: BCAH@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 00:36:27 EDT Subject: test test From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 16 01:16:02 1999 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rn_Schage?=" To: Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 09:15:47 +0200 Subject: one-shot lubrication Hi Folks. As for lubrication. I've set up a system ( together with my mechanic) with an automatic grease container driven by compressed air. It runs grease down the "oiler-bolt" and is attached to the inner wing, easy to reach. It's the size of 1/4 the size of a small spray-paint-can and you can set the amount of grease used per month on a small dial. I think it's intended for stationary machinery that runs for periods of time without maintenance. In the Morgan-word, this system may seem a bit too automated, but I've used it for more than a year, and it seems to work very nicely. It doesn't cost much either! Happy Morganeering Bjørn Schage Norway .. and yes, it's actually snowing today :-(. -----Opprinnelig melding----- Fra: Ben Palmer Til: morgans@autox.team.net Dato: 15. april 1999 05:17 Emne: Re: one-shot lubrication >Vandergraaf, Chuck wrote: > I would think a jet of Castrol might just be >> appropriate for a Morgan. >> >> Chuck Vandergraaf (tongue in cheek) > I think a smoke-bomb under the dash would be more appropriate for a >'57 Plus 4. > >Ben Palmer > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 16 05:10:01 1999 From: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" To: Gary Kneisley , Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 06:18:21 -0400 Subject: Re: Grease fittings Gary, there's only one on the engine in my Plus 4, so perhaps you should look in the places listed below. Other than wider and newer, maybe there are similarities. By the way, newcomer and Morgan restorer Jeff Webster pointed out to me that there's a fugitive grease fitting under the car for the pedal cluster. I'll go grubbing around for that one this coming Sunday. Chip Brown Gary Kneisley wrote: > Anybody have experience with newer +8's? I am told there are 10, but so far > I've only found four. > > Gary > 1991 +8 > R10432 > > At 08:40 AM 4/14/99 -0400, you wrote: > >A while ago you asked how many grease fittings. Sunday I went over the > >car with my handy dandy new pistol grip squeeze grease gun and found: > > > >4 on the steering rack > >2 on the bottom of the front suspension > >2 inboard of the rear brake drums > >2 on the u-joints > >2 on the pedal cluster > >1 on the spline shaft > >1 on the transmission tunnel, up by the firewall > >1 on the water pump > > > >This on a '57 Plus 4. Are there any other grease fittings?? I also put a > >drop of oil in each door hinge, on any linkage I can reach (carbs, > >parking brake, accel. cable at firewall) > > > >CB > > > > > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 16 05:41:25 1999 From: "Blair, John" To: "'morgans@autox.team.net'" Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 07:40:20 -0400 Subject: FW: Monster Lug Nuts (Part Deux) John T. Blair jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake Chesapeake, Va (757) 523-8133 Jeff Webster wrote: >... the PO or someone, had over tightened the lug nuts on that wheel - with the >result that two lug bolts had stripped threads in the hub, one sheared off and the >last one came off OK. >The other thing is, that the studs aren't welded in but rather, simply screwed in >and center punched from the back in such a way to splay the stud so it can be >unscrewed. Jeff, I really can't address your situation on the Morgan from 100% fact as I Have wire wheels and they are set up a little different. However, on most of My cars, the wheel studs are usually simply a "Press" fit. They shank, about The thickness of the axle/hub is serrated. It has lots of grooves that go along the axis of the bolt. You usually just drive or press them in an out. The grooves cut into the hub and keep the studs from turning. >Now I am staring the rear Brakes on my 58 + 4. I find one siezed adjuster, (now >free, after some persuasion with a torch) and a non returning brake mechanism. Jeff, have you checked out my article on rebuilding brakes on my Morgan Web page: http://www.team.net:80/www/morgan/tech/art010_1.html Which type brake system do you have - the Girling ML3? Fred has some comments on this in his book also. Basically a little antiseeze compound on the little tabs on the backing plate that hold the shoes out. Be sure that the brake shoes centered, and ended up on the little tabs and not caught behind one. This will keep them from returning. Also a some antiseeze on the threads of the adjuster, and in the bore where the cones go. >This hub puller that is used to remove the rear hubs on my '58 +4, What does it >look like? Three prong, four prong ? Is it something my local rental store might >have? Bear in mind that the hub that I have to get off - only has one stud left in it! Jeff, the hub puller I have is a Craftsman one I purchased when I was a teen over 30 yrs ago. It has a large bolt, then a heavy metal disk that screws onto the bolt. There are 3 feet that slide onto the disk. The bottom of the feet look like an "L" With a hole in the bottom for the studs. To use it, you set the bolt against the Center of the End of the axle. Then screw the bolt to take up the slack. Once Everything is tight, you hit the end of the bolt with a BFH - a 5# hammer. If the Hub doesn't pop, tighten down on the bolt and try again. CAUTION - when using any type of puller like the, be sure that you put the nut On the end of the stud that the puller is going to press again. If not, you CAN Split the stud - in the case of an axle that can be very expensive!!! Also, I've had good luck using a heavy duty impact wrench instead of the 5# Hammer. John From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 16 13:46:45 1999 From: Oddcarnut@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 15:44:44 EDT Subject: Re: Kingpins & bush Following Fred's approach > leather gaitors on the trike rebound springs to hold the grease I used rubber from an old bicycle inner tube to wrap my rebound springs. Speaking of kingpin lube...Malcolm has a neat device on the Plus 6. Instead of the one shot oil tube, he has thread in a self lubricator. It is a little grease container that uses a spring to constantly force a bit of grease into the kingpin. Off the shelf items at Grainger, McMaster-Carr etc. Happy grease slinging. Cheers, Ken Payne From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 16 19:22:04 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: Bricklin@autox.team.net, andertonm@juno.com, morgans@autox.team.net, Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:15:24 -0400 Subject: Re: Heat, sound insulation, attenuation At 02:45 PM 4/16/99 -0400, Greg Monfort wrote: >Some useful info. http://www.bulley-hewlett.com/VWindex/ If you haven't checked out this page, it is a MUST. Don't let the fact that it is about VWs put you off. It is fantastic!!!! Remember, "a wise man can learn from a fool, but a fool can't learn from a wise man". John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 18 17:15:37 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 19:12:33 -0400 Subject: Roadster backrest construction. Well, I just got back from Eric's house. (He has a '59 Plus four roadster that he is restoring as a SS - it gonna look incredible) ) and I looked at his seat. It the one that most of us would die for - original, well used, with that great patina. His seat base measured 20L" x 13W", his seat cushions however were only 17L" x 14.5W" (13.5W" at the gearbox notch) They tapered from 3" deep at the front edge to 2" deep at the rear edge, where the zipper was. Could someone explain why the cushion is shorter than the base? And is there really two inches of padding over the driveshaft tunnel? Secondly, has anyone ever had to reproduce a Roadster seat back? (The wood part I mean.) I don't want to strip mine apart until my upholsterer has had a chance to get a pattern from the cover - but from what I can see part of the back is less than quarter inch thick, some is over half inch thick and there are two rows of three screws that run vertically roughly where the drivers and passengers backs would be? Can anyone shed some light.... Many thanks, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 20 01:07:50 1999 From: TrmpetDave@aol.com To: kneisley@ohio.net, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 03:05:41 EDT Subject: Re: Grease fittings On my 1971 +8: Front end-6 (2 on drag link, 2 on tie rod, one on each king pin.) Drive shaft-3 (2 on U-joints, one on spline) one on each rear hub(total 2) One on clutch throw-out bearing Grand total-12. Dave Collins, San Diego. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 20 01:07:51 1999 From: TrmpetDave@aol.com To: JBlair@scn.spawar.navy.mil, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 03:05:47 EDT Subject: Re: RE: Sill covers & Lucas In a message dated 4/15/99 4:49:46 AM, JBlair@scn.spawar.navy.mil writes: <> I have been told that Brasso on a pipe cleaner is worth a try. Dave Collins, San Diego From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 20 11:04:12 1999 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Rick Feibusch) To: "Mark McCombs" Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 09:58:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: On Buying and Selling >Rick- >OK, youre a professional at this car buying baloney. I would welcome your >thoughts on how to handle >the following: >You drive 2 hrs to look at a big healey that is rust free, and find that the >inner rockers exist only in "phantom view". >You call about an alfa, the guy puts you off until the following day at 1.00 >pm. So >you kill the whole morning waiting to get there, and when you do theres >already sombody there. When you quiz the owner about"1.00", he says this guy >was suppose to be here at noon, and was late... >The worlds most arrogant attorney has an RX-7 turbo, 1 owner, Immacuate, he >says. >When you get there, it looks like it was in 12 hail storms, cracked leather >seats,ect. >What would you do? >Its getting so frustrating, I'm threatening to leave the hobby. >Thanks >Mark McCombs >Ohio ******************************** Mark - It comes with the territory. One of my services as an appraiser is to evaluate purchases for out-of-state buyers for this exact reason. I often don't even have to waste the time looking at the car as these guys get real nervous about having a pro look at their car and tell me the truth on the phone rather than trying to bamboozle me. When a car seems to be a really great deal, there usually is a reason and that reason is that there some major problem that the seller is not talking about. This is a problem that we find in all aspects of life today. Call it the demise of religion or spiritual values or blame it on the breakdown in the family or an educational system that avoids ethics as to not be construed as religion to critics (and I am not a religious person). - people are basically becoming more dishonest by the day and this means more than ever, buyer beware. Don't hold this against the hobby - it's everywhere. I always try to work with the clubs when trying to find a particular car for a client - they tend to be run by honest, interested people who are sincerely interested in the future of the hobby and their particular marque. Rick Feibusch Journalist/Appraiser Venice, CA From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 20 12:49:35 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: TrmpetDave@aol.com, kneisley@ohio.net, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 14:47:04 EDT Subject: Re: Grease fittings Can anyone tell me what could be wrong with the top bushing area on my offside sliding pillar that would not allow grease to go into the fitting on top of the pillar? I can pump grease into the near side one no problem; and I've unscrewed the off side zerk fitting and the fitting's clear. What could be stopping it up so that the handle of the grease gun feels like it's hitting a solid block? Could I hurt anything by putting a pneumatic grease gun on it and throwing the pressure to it? I like to keep them nice and greasy, even though I know that road grit can turn the stuff into lapping paste. And when the bushings need replacement, what's the approximate cost of the Greg Solow 100,000 mile treatment? Thanks!!! Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 20 15:09:24 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: british-cars@autox.team.net, morgans@autox.team.net, vSAAB@onelist.com, Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:00:08 -0400 Subject: VSCCA Race Anybody going to be in town (VA. Beach) this weekend for the Vintage sports car races? If so, we should try to get together sometime. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: webus80.wang.com/BI From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 20 16:06:12 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: jblair@exis.net, british-cars@autox.team.net, morgans@autox.team.net, Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 18:03:17 EDT Subject: Re: VSCCA Race John - Would love to come down to Virginia Beach to the races, but unfortunately have other plans because I didn't plan far enough ahead. Neither my Rough Rider nor British Car has them on the calendar. Is there a calendar we can get access to on the 'net? I don't think I can afford to join the SVRA, VSCCA, SCCA, etc to get all their schedules. Events that are less than two tanks of gas away are few and far between, and I don't want to miss any of them...... Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 20 18:38:59 1999 From: Giampiero Pecelli To: LSelz@aol.com Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 20:38:52 -0400 Subject: Re: VSCCA Race Hi: There are at least two links: SCCA, New England Region: http://www.ner.org/ VSCCA: http://w3.nai.net/~edwardh/ed8.htm They both have calendars. Giampiero Pecelli 64 +4 LSelz@aol.com wrote: > John - Would love to come down to Virginia Beach to the races, but > unfortunately have other plans because I didn't plan far enough ahead. > Neither my Rough Rider nor British Car has them on the calendar. Is there a > calendar we can get access to on the 'net? I don't think I can afford to > join the SVRA, VSCCA, SCCA, etc to get all their schedules. > > Events that are less than two tanks of gas away are few and far between, and > I don't want to miss any of them...... > > > Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 20 19:13:45 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: Lorne Goldman , morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 21:07:06 -0400 Subject: Re: VSCCA Race At 07:13 PM 4/20/99 -0400, you wrote: >I will be leaving my Quebec woods and moose for a trip to the the States >with my car...I was stopping at the Mount Vernon Bitish Car show on >Sunday >but didn't know a thing about the Vintage car racing.. > >Where can one find out more about the Virginia Beach event? Lorne, all I know is that it is this weekend at Naval Air Station Oceana. Cost for spectators is $8/person or $12 for both days. Tickets are supposedly available at the gate. They say that it is from 8 to 6 both days. The course is a road course about 2 3/4 miles. The last sports car race I remember here was when I was about 14 or a little over 35 years ago.T John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: webus80.wang.com/BI From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 02:09:08 1999 From: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com To: LSelz@aol.com Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 09:07:25 +0100 Subject: Re: Grease fittings You clearly have something in there. The hole that lets the grease out onto the outside of the king pin is really small and so cloggs easily. Someone may be able to suggest a way of clearing it without dissassembly but I can't think how. As for when the bushings need replacing there have been some good discussions lately on the list. try the list archive at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=morgans Dave Vodden 1992 Plus 4 Hampshire UK LSelz@aol.com on 20/04/99 19:47:04 Please respond to LSelz@aol.com To: TrmpetDave@aol.com, kneisley@ohio.net, Morgans@autox.team.net cc: (bcc: Dave Vodden/Basingstoke/ECI Telecom) Subject: Re: Grease fittings Can anyone tell me what could be wrong with the top bushing area on my offside sliding pillar that would not allow grease to go into the fitting on top of the pillar? I can pump grease into the near side one no problem; and I've unscrewed the off side zerk fitting and the fitting's clear. What could be stopping it up so that the handle of the grease gun feels like it's hitting a solid block? Could I hurt anything by putting a pneumatic grease gun on it and throwing the pressure to it? I like to keep them nice and greasy, even though I know that road grit can turn the stuff into lapping paste. And when the bushings need replacement, what's the approximate cost of the Greg Solow 100,000 mile treatment? Thanks!!! Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 05:57:34 1999 From: Stan Vann To: "John T. Blair" Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 23:43:54 -0400 Subject: Re: VSCCA Race John T. Blair wrote: > > At 07:13 PM 4/20/99 -0400, you wrote: > > >I will be leaving my Quebec woods and moose for a trip to the the States > >with my car...I was stopping at the Mount Vernon Bitish Car show on > >Sunday > >but didn't know a thing about the Vintage car racing.. > > > >Where can one find out more about the Virginia Beach event? > > Lorne, all I know is that it is this weekend at Naval Air Station Oceana. > Cost for spectators is $8/person or $12 for both days. Tickets are supposedly > available at the gate. They say that it is from 8 to 6 both days. The course > is a road course about 2 3/4 miles. > > The last sports car race I remember here was when I was about 14 or a little > over 35 years ago.T > > John > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net > Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V > 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire > > Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: webus80.wang.com/BI John, This is a SVRA event. I'll be running my Caldwell D-9 FFord. John Sheally is going to be there doing a story on it. See ya, Stan Vann FF #9 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 06:29:32 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 08:27:51 -0400 Subject: Specs. please? Hi there, Would someone be kind enough to e-mail me the oil capacity for the back axle and the gear box of my 58 Plus 4. It has the Moss Box. (I know I could normally use the dip stick and fill the rear end until it comes back out the fill hole - but the back of my car is in the air right now, and I can't put it down to get a level reading). One other thing, what are the recommended torque wrench settings for my wheel/lug nuts? Many thanks, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 06:57:20 1999 From: jpavone@vanstar.com To: Carfindr@tiac.net, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 05:56:57 -0700 Subject: Re: Specs. please? My book states 2.1 Imperial pints for the 3HA rear axle. I believe an Imperial pint is slightly greater than a regular one. Dunno about your gear box as mine is from the Ford Family. regards, John 59' 4/4 From: Jeff Webster on 04/21/99 05:27 AM PDT To: Morgans @ autox.team.net@SMTP@Exchange cc: Subject: Specs. please? Hi there, Would someone be kind enough to e-mail me the oil capacity for the back axle and the gear box of my 58 Plus 4. It has the Moss Box. (I know I could normally use the dip stick and fill the rear end until it comes back out the fill hole - but the back of my car is in the air right now, and I can't put it down to get a level reading). One other thing, what are the recommended torque wrench settings for my wheel/lug nuts? Many thanks, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 07:06:19 1999 From: scott.barrie@CIMtegration.com (Scott Barrie) To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 09:07:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Specs. please? John wrote: >I believe an >Imperial pint is slightly greater than a regular one. Dunno about your >gear box as mine is from the Ford Family. There are those of us who would have written that: "a regular pint is slightly greater than a U.S. pint"...... :-) An Imperial pint is 20 ounces. Cheers Scott Barrie '63 Plus Four From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 08:16:40 1999 From: "Stuart J. Ross" To: "Scott Barrie" , Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 10:20:01 -0400 Subject: Re: Specs. please? That's because the bloody Brits were exploiting the poor Yankee colonists back in the 18th century. But we showed 'em, didn't we! Now we drive their Morgans and they have 20 oz pints and drink Budwiser.----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Barrie To: Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 10:07 AM Subject: Re: Specs. please? > John wrote: > > >I believe an > >Imperial pint is slightly greater than a regular one. Dunno about your > >gear box as mine is from the Ford Family. > > There are those of us who would have written that: "a regular pint is > slightly greater than a U.S. pint"...... :-) > > An Imperial pint is 20 ounces. > > Cheers > > Scott Barrie > '63 Plus Four > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 09:24:10 1999 From: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com To: "Stuart J. Ross" Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 16:22:03 +0100 Subject: Re: Specs. please? As a "Bloody" Brit (I cut myself shaving) I have always been puzzled by this disparity of standards and I can think of only the following possible explanations 1 Some sensible person thought that a pint of water should weigh a pound (unlikely), but omitted to note that over time globalisation of trade would result in confusion. 2 Some canny Yankee found that he could label a drum "Contains 50 Gallons" when in fact it only contained 40. they are of course both wrong as I think that Americans just like things to sound big. As another example take proof spirit In the UK we use the historic standard (that dilution which when mixed with gunpowder still allows the powder to burn or just above 57% by alcohol volume ) I understand you use 50% alcohol. The result is the same spirit (40% alcohol by volume) has been sold in the UK as 70 proof and in the US as 80 proof with some Americans thinking our spirit was weak. (well what do you expect of a Limey?) On the Billion we eventually capituated the "American Billion" which makes things sound bigger (10 to the power 9 or one thousand million) is almost universally used rather than the old British Billion which is more logical (ten to the power 12 or one million million, where a million is one thousand thousand). For the pint/gallon we gave up and use litres and percent alcohol seems to be the favoured measure of spirit strength. Still a good whisky is still a good whisky!!!! (Scotch of course and preferably export strength i.e. 83.125 British proof, I leave you to work out what that means in your prefered units) Dave Vodden 1992 Plus 4 4 seater (not used when owner filled with aforemensioned spirit) Hampshire UK "Stuart J. Ross" on 21/04/99 15:20:01 Please respond to "Stuart J. Ross" To: "Scott Barrie" , morgans@autox.team.net cc: (bcc: Dave Vodden/Basingstoke/ECI Telecom) Subject: Re: Specs. please? That's because the bloody Brits were exploiting the poor Yankee colonists back in the 18th century. But we showed 'em, didn't we! Now we drive their Morgans and they have 20 oz pints and drink Budwiser.----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Barrie To: Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 10:07 AM Subject: Re: Specs. please? > John wrote: > > >I believe an > >Imperial pint is slightly greater than a regular one. Dunno about your > >gear box as mine is from the Ford Family. > > There are those of us who would have written that: "a regular pint is > slightly greater than a U.S. pint"...... :-) > > An Imperial pint is 20 ounces. > > Cheers > > Scott Barrie > '63 Plus Four > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 10:13:42 1999 From: Sean Boyle To: Morgans Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 15:12:24 +0000 Subject: Re: Specs. please? ...but not as good as a good whiskey! >Still a good whisky is still a good whisky!!!! From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 10:41:31 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com, "Stuart J. Ross" Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 12:38:41 EDT Subject: Re: Specs. please? We revolutionaries still have an awful lot of British in us. We revere British sports cars and motorcycles, we use a railway gauge that is traceable back through the spacing of Roman military chariot wheels so that the same chariot could run in Gallic or Britannic wheel ruts, and WE WILL FIGHT....WE WILL NEVER SURRENDER to the effete proponents of the Metric System. Bordeaux and Perrier fit into liter bottles; Pabst and Minute Maid will spill out and spoil. I took an 11mm socket to the Morgan oil pan bolts the other day cause I couldn't find a 7/16, and the thing hasn't run right since. And anybody whose army can fight and whip the Nazis wearing short pants and skirts have GOT to be tough..... Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 11:18:42 1999 From: "J.D. Welch" To: "Stuart J. Ross" Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 11:19:54 -0600 Subject: Re: Specs. please? OK. To digress even further... Recently there was a gathering of brewers from around the globe. At the end of the first day of grueling lectures, some chaps decided to head for the local pub for a pint (anybody's pint, for goodness sake!) of their favorite. The representative from Mexico sat down and said to the bartender, "Senior, uno cerveza Corona, Por favor." The representitive from Budwiser said, "I'll have a glass of the most popular beer in the world, please...Make it a Bud!" The representative from Coors said, "Well, howdy, y'all (yes, they can talk like that in Colorado, what with so many Texas immigrants), give me a glass of that thar pure Rocky Mountain refreshment." The representative from Ireland looked down the bar, looked at the bartender, and order a Coca-cola. The other 3 were stunned! The Irishman looked at his astonished companions and said,"Well, since none of you chose to have a proper beer, then neither shall I." Joke of the day from Rock99, Salt Lake City, UT Cheers! J.D. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 18:17:57 1999 From: RCooperman@aol.com To: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com, stuross@nac.net Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 20:13:19 EDT Subject: Re: Specs. please? Dave, We still need to honor the globalization of spelling as a favor to us yanks. Richard Cooperman '67 Morgan 4/4 RHD From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 18:55:12 1999 From: toad To: LSelz@aol.com Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 20:55:46 -0400 Subject: Re: Specs. please? LSelz@aol.com wrote: > > We revolutionaries still have an awful lot of British in us. We revere > British sports cars and motorcycles, we use a railway gauge that is traceable > back through the spacing of Roman military chariot wheels so that the same > chariot could run in Gallic or Britannic wheel ruts, and WE WILL FIGHT....WE > WILL NEVER SURRENDER to the effete proponents of the Metric System. Bordeaux > and Perrier fit into liter bottles; Pabst and Minute Maid will spill out and > spoil. I took an 11mm socket to the Morgan oil pan bolts the other day cause > I couldn't find a 7/16, and the thing hasn't run right since. And anybody > whose army can fight and whip the Nazis wearing short pants and skirts have > GOT to be tough..... > Lannis And don't forget the American warship is still a Jackie Fisher design. Who was Jackie Fisher? Anybody know?? Toad From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 20:34:46 1999 From: MOGOWNER@aol.com To: TrmpetDave@aol.com, kneisley@ohio.net, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:31:22 EDT Subject: Re: Grease fittings Where can I find the clutch release bearing grease fitting? It doesn't seem to be accessible through the cut out on the transmission tunnel. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 20:50:26 1999 From: EPaul21988@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:49:12 EDT Subject: Anyone going to Buttonwillow ? I'm planning on going over to the Vintage Race and car show April 30 & May 1 & 2. Moss Motors promo stuff says they're celebrating 90 years of Morgan. I'll be flying in because the F2 is not yet roadworthy. No I did not intend to drive it there, I'd hoped to trailer it over for the show and to buzz around. Next year for sure. Anyone on the list going to be there ? Any F2's , I hope, I hope. I've got lots of questions and would love to take some photos. Bob Paul Corrales NM F376 36 Morgan F2 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 20:51:18 1999 From: "William G. Lamb, III" To: toad Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:50:48 -0400 Subject: Re: Specs. please? My Lord, we are an old bunch! Jacky Fisher might have been the biggest proponent of H.M.S. Dreadnought, but it was Percy Scott who figured out how to get some use out of the thing, (Father of modern naval gunnery), and Admiral Lord Jellicoe, the only man capable of forfeiting W.W. I in a single battle, and made sufficient impression at Jutland, (no help from Beatty), turning a slight tactical defeat into a strategic victory, (the German Fleet never again dared sail again). The U.S.S. BB was not exactly based on contemporary Dreadnoughts. I vaguely recall reading that we were earlier in converting to oil due to the distances our Fleet needed to travel, and we were first at eliminating casement guns which were a hold-over in the R.N.. from wooden ships of the line, (as these had a rather limited field of fire). W.G.L.,III (long, long ago U.S.N.) At 08:55 PM 4/21/99 -0400, toad wrote: > >And don't forget the American warship is still a Jackie Fisher design. >Who was Jackie Fisher? >Anybody know?? > >Toad > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 21:33:45 1999 From: TrmpetDave@aol.com To: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 23:32:36 EDT Subject: Re: Grease fittings In a message dated 4/21/99 12:15:27 AM, Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com writes: <> There is a gadget that looks like a centerpunch that you can get from JC Whitney, that you fill with oil, offer to the occluded grease nipple (or is that not what you are complaining about?), and then strike smartly with a hammer, that will open up most clogged nipples. Dave Collins, San Diego From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 21:49:07 1999 From: TrmpetDave@aol.com To: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 23:46:10 EDT Subject: Re: Specs. please? In a message dated 4/21/99 7:40:32 AM, Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com writes: <> Actually, since the American fluid ounce is larger than the Imperial, it is a 60 gallon vat that contains 50. Dave collins, San Diego From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 21:54:22 1999 From: "F Kuzyk" To: "Morgans" , Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 23:51:29 -0400 Subject: Re: Specs. please? Willie, A good assessment. While Lord Fisher was the proponent for "Fear God and Dread Nought", it was Vittorio Cuniiberti who came up with the theory for all-big-gun battleships. The US BBs of the Iowa class certainly had little resemblance to the dreadnoughts of Fisher's era, especially in their guise as manifold anti-aircraft platforms. Battlewagons such as Bismarck & Yamato carried the design to it's zenith, perhaps. All proved to be vulnerable to air power. Fisher would have wept that his grand capital ships would be replaced by flat-top carriers! An excellent book on these almost extinct machines of diplomacy & deterence (and fear) is "Dreadnought" by Richard Hough. While some on this list were tinkering with Morgans 20 odd years ago, I was working on the restoration of a Korean war era McDonnell "Banshee" navy jet fighter. In some respects a Morgan is more difficult. Cheers, Fred Kuzyk (long, long ago airman - Canadian Armed Forces) MSCCC Webmaster Visit the Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada Web site at: http://members.xoom.com/msccc/ For info on cigars, local cigar clubs & events, etc; visit my other web site Holy Smokes http://members.xoom.com/holysmokes/ -----Original Message----- From: William G. Lamb, III To: toad Cc: LSelz@aol.com ; Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com ; Stuart J. Ross ; morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 11:09 PM Subject: Re: Specs. please? > > My Lord, we are an old bunch! Jacky Fisher might have been the biggest >proponent of H.M.S. Dreadnought, but it was Percy Scott who figured out >how to get some use out of the thing, (Father of modern naval gunnery), >and Admiral Lord Jellicoe, the only man capable of forfeiting W.W. I in >a single battle, and made sufficient impression at Jutland, (no help from >Beatty), turning a slight tactical defeat into a strategic victory, (the >German >Fleet never again dared sail again). The U.S.S. BB was not exactly based >on contemporary Dreadnoughts. I vaguely recall reading that we were earlier >in converting to oil due to the distances our Fleet needed to travel, and we >were first at eliminating casement guns which were a hold-over in the R.N.. >from wooden ships of the line, (as these had a rather limited field of fire). > >W.G.L.,III (long, long ago U.S.N.) > >At 08:55 PM 4/21/99 -0400, toad wrote: >> >>And don't forget the American warship is still a Jackie Fisher design. >>Who was Jackie Fisher? >>Anybody know?? >> >>Toad >> > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 23:18:06 1999 From: "F Kuzyk" To: "Morgans" Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 01:17:07 -0400 Subject: Morgan "Featured Marque" at British Car Toy Run A Celebration of 90 Years of Morgans! Received word today from the organizers at the British Saloon Car Club of Canada, that Morgan will be the "Featured Marque" at this year's 5th British Car Toy Run for the Operation Santa Claus charity, on September 26, 1999. As you may know, this event was founded by the Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada for the betterment of children & the less fortunate at Christmas. And while Morgans were recognized each year, Morgan was not actually featured during one of the years (Triumph, Jaguar, & Land Rover having the honour). Santa actually rode in a Rolls the first year. On behalf of the MSCCC, we're pleased that Morgan has been chosen by the new organizers, particulary during this 90th anniversary year for the marque! More details will be posted on the MSCCC website, as they become available. As far as we know, the format will remain the same as previous years - that is, a driving tour, car show, & party - with all toys & proceeds to charity. We hope that "Morganeers" & all British marques will choose to join in this celebration & good cause. Cheers, Fred Kuzyk MSCCC Webmaster Visit the Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada Web site at: http://members.xoom.com/msccc/ For info on cigars, local cigar clubs & events, etc; visit my other web site Holy Smokes http://members.xoom.com/holysmokes/ From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 21 23:39:06 1999 From: Jon Callas To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:26:55 -0700 Subject: Pedal lubrication Thanks to all who sent advice on unsticking the pedals. We got it done this weekend, and I've been driving the moggie all week. Tuesday, I came out of my office along with a woman who had ridden the elevator with me, but I'd never seen before. We both walked out to the parking lot, and I went over to the Morgan and she asked if it was mine, cooed over it appreciatively, and finally said, "You know, I've always thought I should get one of those. You see, my name is Morgan Morgan, and I've always thought it would be a perfect car for me." Indeed, it's almost worth taking up a collection for. Jon From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 01:51:48 1999 From: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com To: TrmpetDave@aol.com Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 08:50:00 +0100 Subject: Re: Specs. please? You mean an ounce of water doesn't weigh an ounce any more? Or do you guy's use heavy water :-) something new every day... Dave Vodden From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 03:02:21 1999 From: Ben Palmer To: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 03:59:49 -0400 Subject: Re: Specs. please? Dear Dave: There is a difference between fluid ounces (volume) and ounces of weight. There are 12 troy ounces in a pound of gold. Although a troy ounce is heavier (in grams) than an avoirdupois ounce, a pound of water still weighs more than a pound of gold. One close relationship that is easy to remember is, "A pint's a pound -- the world around!" Except in England. Ben Palmer >From Eric's Treasure Troves: =Pound= A unit of Weight defined as the basic unit (instead of Mass) in the Imperial system. It corresponds to a Mass of 453.592 g, and a Weight of 1 lb = (0.453592 kg)(9.80665 m/s2) = 4.448 N. See also Bag, Pound-Mass, Pound-Volume, Slug ,Stone at http://www.astro.virginia.edu/~eww6n/physics/physics.html From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 04:17:38 1999 From: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com To: palsy@bellatlantic.net Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 11:12:19 +0100 Subject: Re: Specs. please? Very Interesting Ben My GCE Ordinary level engineering science (which differed only from physics in using random units rather than a consistant SI set of units) had it the other way round. The pound mass was the standard and we had to be very careful about using the term pound weight should we want to use it for a force. The standard unit of force we used was the poundal (the force required to accelerate one pound (mass) at 1 ft/s/s) so 1 pound weight is g poundals. The slug refered to by "Eric" as a unit of mass was described as an archaic American usage but its use would define the pound (weight) as that force required to accellerate a slug at 1 foot/s/s and I guess gives an opportunity for a slug force of g pounds. Now if I do that to one of our slugs I get a real flat slug which reduces the toll on the lettuces :-) By the way the multiplicity of units (we used FPS, CGS, MKS and other systems some of which had to be described as part of the set problem in order that the student could solve the problem) merely served to obscure the underlying principles. That said we were real good at converting units. Thank god the Advanced Level and Degree all used SI and sorted out the confusion. It still doesn't explain why an ounce of water should weigh anything other than an ounce. As a pint (20 ounces) of my water weighs a pound and a quarter and a gallon weighs 10 pounds. Where a pint (16 ounces) of your water weighs a pound and presumably a gallon of your water weighs 8 pounds. Moreover a pound (mass) of anything weighs a pound weight under standard gravitational conditions and presumably under those same gravitational conditions a pound weight is the weight of a pound(mass) unless it has a slug crawling on it. Or are we talking about different pounds here? Who was that Helen of Troy anyway and what a way to launch ships!!! Appologies to those people not fascinated by unitary confusion. Just think all this started with a legitimate query about the oil capacity of a Salisbury Axle, goes to show how careful you have to be!! Have you heard the one about the aliens visiting Earth? Dave Ben Palmer on 22/04/99 08:59:49 Please respond to palsy@bellatlantic.net To: Dave Vodden/Basingstoke/ECI Telecom@ECI Telecom cc: morgans@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Specs. please? Dear Dave: There is a difference between fluid ounces (volume) and ounces of weight. There are 12 troy ounces in a pound of gold. Although a troy ounce is heavier (in grams) than an avoirdupois ounce, a pound of water still weighs more than a pound of gold. One close relationship that is easy to remember is, "A pint's a pound -- the world around!" Except in England. Ben Palmer >From Eric's Treasure Troves: =Pound= A unit of Weight defined as the basic unit (instead of Mass) in the Imperial system. It corresponds to a Mass of 453.592 g, and a Weight of 1 lb = (0.453592 kg)(9.80665 m/s2) = 4.448 N. See also Bag, Pound-Mass, Pound-Volume, Slug ,Stone at http://www.astro.virginia.edu/~eww6n/physics/physics.html From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 05:57:02 1999 From: gdm@po.cwru.edu (David McCoy) To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 07:55:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Specs. please? > > > >Very Interesting Ben > The slug refered to by "Eric" as a unit of mass was described >as an archaic American usage but its use would define the pound (weight) as >that force required to accellerate a slug at 1 foot/s/s and I guess gives >an opportunity for a slug force of g pounds. Now if I do that to one of our >slugs I get a real flat slug which reduces the toll on the lettuces :-) > This is all very well and good, but I am confused. Does this have anything to d owit hthe phrase ".....why don't you go pound sand......"? And if so where is said sand to be pounded? Dave McCoy From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 06:17:32 1999 From: ARoman4047@aol.com To: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com, palsy@bellatlantic.net Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 08:13:25 EDT Subject: Re: Specs. please? Dave- ....Brilliant exigesis- Now if we could figure a way to market this properly... Let's see; measure the pounds feet of torque in "our" system = an 8/10 ratio or a 20 percent increase in engine torque with no modifications. Convert the volume of the car into "their" gallons= the same 8/10 ratio of another 20 percent decrease in weight; again with no modifications. Add these two figures (20 percent + 20 percent), = 40 percent. Eureka, a 40 percent increase in the power to weight ratio! Change those wasteful SU's to a more economical "Fish" carburetor - "Up to 200 mpg..." - and use those tablets you just drop in your tank to convert water into gas. My God, its a car that goes faster, further, and cheaper...Aint math won- derful? Tony in NJ From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 06:23:07 1999 From: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com To: gdm@po.cwru.edu (David McCoy) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 13:21:03 +0100 Subject: Re: Specs. please? Dave Your pound of sand to be pounded is probably impounded in the pound!! Dave Vodden gdm@po.cwru.edu (David McCoy) on 22/04/99 12:55:57 Please respond to gdm@po.cwru.edu (David McCoy) To: morgans@autox.team.net cc: (bcc: Dave Vodden/Basingstoke/ECI Telecom) Subject: Re: Specs. please? > > > >Very Interesting Ben > The slug refered to by "Eric" as a unit of mass was described >as an archaic American usage but its use would define the pound (weight) as >that force required to accellerate a slug at 1 foot/s/s and I guess gives >an opportunity for a slug force of g pounds. Now if I do that to one of our >slugs I get a real flat slug which reduces the toll on the lettuces :-) > This is all very well and good, but I am confused. Does this have anything to d owit hthe phrase ".....why don't you go pound sand......"? And if so where is said sand to be pounded? Dave McCoy From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 06:57:11 1999 From: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" To: TrmpetDave@aol.com Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 08:52:55 -0400 Subject: Re: Grease fittings Unless I'm missing something here, why not just buy an assortment of grease nipples --- they are very cheap --- and unscrew the old one and put in a new one? Are these special grease nipples??? Chip Brown TrmpetDave@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 4/21/99 12:15:27 AM, Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com writes: > > < the outside of the king pin is really small and so cloggs easily. Someone > may be able to suggest a way of clearing it without dissassembly but I > can't think how>> > > There is a gadget that looks like a centerpunch that you can get from JC > Whitney, that you fill with oil, offer to the occluded grease nipple (or is > that not what you are complaining about?), and then strike smartly with a > hammer, that will open up most clogged nipples. Dave Collins, San Diego From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 07:00:07 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 08:58:29 -0400 Subject: SPECS PLEASE! - did you forget about the original question? My God, All I wanted to know was how much oil to put in my rear end! Seemed to have started debate - but only one real (part) answer to my original question, which was: Would someone be kind enough to e-mail me the oil capacity for the back axle and the gear box of my 58 Plus 4. It has the Moss Box. (I know I could normally use the dip stick and fill the rear end until it comes back out the fill hole - but the back of my car is in the air right now, and I can't put it down to get a level reading). One other thing, what are the recommended torque wrench settings for my wheel/lug nuts? Many thanks, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 07:30:57 1999 From: jpavone@vanstar.com To: Jeff Webster , morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 06:30:31 -0700 Subject: Re: SPECS PLEASE! - did you forget about the original question? Jeff, As was previously mentioned; the oil capacity of the rear axle is 2.1 imperial pints or about 42oz. John 59 4/4 From: Jeff Webster on 04/22/99 05:58 AM PDT To: Morgans @ autox.team.net@SMTP@Exchange cc: Subject: SPECS PLEASE! - did you forget about the original question? My God, All I wanted to know was how much oil to put in my rear end! Seemed to have started debate - but only one real (part) answer to my original question, which was: Would someone be kind enough to e-mail me the oil capacity for the back axle and the gear box of my 58 Plus 4. It has the Moss Box. (I know I could normally use the dip stick and fill the rear end until it comes back out the fill hole - but the back of my car is in the air right now, and I can't put it down to get a level reading). One other thing, what are the recommended torque wrench settings for my wheel/lug nuts? Many thanks, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 08:18:57 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: palsy@bellatlantic.net, Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 07:17:28 -0700 Subject: RE: Specs. please? I heard once that in the course of a long race that Stirling Moss lost as much as 14 pounds. It just proves the old adage that: "A rolling Moss gathers no stone." Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: Ben Palmer [SMTP:palsy@bellatlantic.net] > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 1:00 AM > To: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com > Cc: morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: Specs. please? > > Dear Dave: > > There is a difference between fluid ounces (volume) and ounces of > weight. > There are 12 troy ounces in a pound of gold. Although a troy ounce is > heavier (in grams) than an avoirdupois ounce, a pound of water still > weighs more than a pound of gold. One close relationship that is easy > to remember is, "A pint's a pound -- the world around!" Except in > England. > > Ben Palmer > > From Eric's Treasure Troves: > =Pound= > > A unit of Weight defined as the basic unit (instead of Mass) in the > Imperial system. It corresponds to a Mass of 453.592 g, and a Weight of > > 1 lb = (0.453592 kg)(9.80665 m/s2) = 4.448 > N. > See also Bag, Pound-Mass, Pound-Volume, Slug ,Stone > at http://www.astro.virginia.edu/~eww6n/physics/physics.html From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 09:06:59 1999 From: "DeLuca, Joseph" To: "'Morgans'" Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 11:05:28 -0400 Subject: RE: Fluid loss and Hidem tacking strips Back in my racing days I was hurtling down the main straight of Lime Rock Park in my Dodge. When I tromped heavily on the brake pedal it went to the floor and I ended up stuffed in the weeds at the end of the short escape road. A corner worker said "You must have lost a lot of fluid". I responded "Hell, yes... Who wouldn't!" But seriously, I'm trying to find out who sells those "Hidem" tacking strips for Morgan upholstery, preferably in brown. Actually I need some to re-upholster a kitchen chair, but don't tell anybody, it's embarrassing. Any tips? Joe DeLuca Sparta, NJ '62 yellow 4/4 competition model Morgan 3/4 Group, USA -----Original Message----- From: Gerry Willburn [mailto:Gerry.Willburn@trw.com] Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 10:17 AM To: palsy@bellatlantic.net; Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com Cc: morgans@autox.team.net Subject: RE: Specs. please? I heard once that in the course of a long race that Stirling Moss lost as much as 14 pounds. It just proves the old adage that: "A rolling Moss gathers no stone." Gerry From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 10:08:10 1999 From: HABCTRMD@aol.com To: Joseph.DeLuca@wl.com, owner-morgans@autox.team.net, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 12:03:46 EDT Subject: Re: RE: Fluid loss and Hidem tacking strips Don't knock yourself out trying to find them, just have a local trim shop make you up as many feet as you need. It's just some material and twine stiched together, it's not terribly expensive to have made up. Rick Rader 66 4/4 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 10:15:36 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: Ernest(Chip) Brown , TrmpetDave@aol.com Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 12:12:01 EDT Subject: Re: Grease fittings RE: my inability to get grease into my kingpin; No, I've had the zerk fitting out and it's clear; I can pump grease right through it. The consensus seems to be that the small lube hole that allows grease into the joint is blocked. I've got one of those JC Whitney unblocking widgets, but I've had no more luck with it over the years than I've had with my EZ-outs. (By the way, has ANYONE ever removed a seized bolt or stud with an EZ-out? By the time a part is so seized that a regular carbon steel shaft twists off, how is a hardened shaft 1/2 that diameter going to be able to carry enough torque to get it? I know that the heat of drilling and the strain relief from removing the metal helps, but to help at all, you have to drill everything out but the threads anyway. I'm going to throw mine away tonight!!) The bottom line is that I probably need to take my kingpin and bushing apart and find out how they're made so I can understand the problem. Are we really sure that there's no spring compressor made that will hold down a Morgan main front spring?? Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 10:19:35 1999 From: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" To: jpavone@vanstar.com Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 12:17:16 -0400 Subject: Re: SPECS PLEASE! - did you forget about the original question? On behalf of all those out there who ask this list for answers ad infinitum, and get generally good numbers, good info and maybe a bit of levity mixed in, I'd like to say THANK YOU to all of the members who give their fair share. I know I speak for all of the information-seeking folks when I say: All of us really appreciate the input from so many knowledgeable people. We may forget to say "please" and "thank you", but this is because we're driven to mania by these miserable motor cars, not because we're devoid of manners!! Chip Brown jpavone@vanstar.com wrote: > Jeff, > As was previously mentioned; the oil capacity of the rear axle is 2.1 > imperial pints or about 42oz. > > John > 59 4/4 > > From: Jeff Webster on 04/22/99 05:58 AM PDT > > To: Morgans @ autox.team.net@SMTP@Exchange > cc: > Subject: SPECS PLEASE! - did you forget about the original question? > > My God, > All I wanted to know was how much oil to put in my rear end! Seemed to have > started debate - but only one real (part) answer to my original question, > which was: > Would someone be kind enough to e-mail me the oil capacity for the back > axle > and the gear box of my 58 Plus 4. It has the Moss Box. > (I know I could normally use the dip stick and fill the rear end until it > comes back out the fill hole - but the back of my car is in the air right > now, and I can't put it down to get a level reading). > One other thing, what are the recommended torque wrench settings for my > wheel/lug nuts? > > Many thanks, > > Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 11:19:17 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: Ernest(Chip) Brown , jpavone@vanstar.com Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 13:17:03 EDT Subject: Re: SPECS PLEASE! - did you forget about the original question? Chip - I agree. If you're the kind of person who wants straightforward, objective living, with clean quantitative answers, and efficiency and closure everything you do, THEN BOY ARE YOU IN TROUBLE OWNING A MORGAN!! Everything you do with a Morgan comes complete with five unnecessary anachronisms, three completely illogical process steps, two-and-a-half chuckles, and one belly laugh. I know they look straightforward and simple; my Jeep is straightforward and simple. The Morgan has a personality, and personalities are NEVER simple. I loved the Burt Levy article reprint in the latest Rough Rider. "I say, Morgan, I'm afraid I've made rather a mess of this corner". "Perhaps we can sort it out, sir." "I've lifted off the gas and made a steering correction." "That should do nicely, sir. Will there be anything else?" What other car could you write that about? Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 12:11:12 1999 From: Bob Tescione To: "DeLuca, Joseph" Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 14:12:41 -0400 Subject: Re: Fluid loss and Hidem tacking strips DeLuca, Joseph wrote: > > Back in my racing days I was hurtling down the main straight > of Lime Rock Park in my Dodge. When I tromped heavily on the > brake pedal it went to the floor and I ended up stuffed in > the weeds at the end of the short escape road. A corner > worker said "You must have lost a lot of fluid". I responded > "Hell, yes... Who wouldn't!" > > But seriously, I'm trying to find out who sells those "Hidem" > tacking strips for Morgan upholstery, preferably in brown. > Actually I need some to re-upholster a kitchen chair, but > don't tell anybody, it's embarrassing. Any tips? > > Joe DeLuca > Sparta, NJ > '62 yellow 4/4 competition model > Morgan 3/4 Group, USA > Joe: I'd try Restoration Specialties & Supply in Windber PA. PO Box 328 RR2 Windber 15963. 814-467-9842. tHEY have a catalog of all kinds of upholstery related things. Mine is outdated (1991) Give em a try. Bob Tescione mogman@rpa.net From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 12:56:02 1999 From: "Blair, John" To: "'morgans@autox.team.net'" Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 14:54:31 -0400 Subject: RE: Fluid loss and Hidem tacking strips Bob, I purchased some from them about that time frame (91). It turned out to be too Thin for the Morgan. John John T. Blair jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake Chesapeake, Va (757) 523-8133 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Tescione [SMTP:mogman@rpa.net] Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 2:13 PM To: DeLuca, Joseph Cc: morgans@autox.team.net Subject: Re: Fluid loss and Hidem tacking strips DeLuca, Joseph wrote: > > Back in my racing days I was hurtling down the main straight > of Lime Rock Park in my Dodge. When I tromped heavily on the > brake pedal it went to the floor and I ended up stuffed in > the weeds at the end of the short escape road. A corner > worker said "You must have lost a lot of fluid". I responded > "Hell, yes... Who wouldn't!" > > But seriously, I'm trying to find out who sells those "Hidem" > tacking strips for Morgan upholstery, preferably in brown. > Actually I need some to re-upholster a kitchen chair, but > don't tell anybody, it's embarrassing. Any tips? > > Joe DeLuca > Sparta, NJ > '62 yellow 4/4 competition model > Morgan 3/4 Group, USA > Joe: I'd try Restoration Specialties & Supply in Windber PA. PO Box 328 RR2 Windber 15963. 814-467-9842. tHEY have a catalog of all kinds of upholstery related things. Mine is outdated (1991) Give em a try. Bob Tescione mogman@rpa.net From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 13:16:53 1999 From: William Zehring To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 15:17:07 -0400 Subject: moss box Dear all: I had the opportunity to go for a spin in a moss box-equipped car yesterday (no, not a +4, in this case it was a '64 e-type) and have a few questions... --is first gear a straight cut? In this car there was a pronounced whine. --is the second gear synchro pretty weak? This car (~85k miles) had essentially NO second gear synchro. Pals suggest I shouldn't be surprised at that, but zowie, it sure does crimp your style if you have to nurse it into second every time. --how hard is changing a synchro ring (ignoring for a minute how hard it is to just get to the box in the e-type)? I have great respect for folks brave enough to work on trannys. Okay, so there isn't much direct Morgan content in this; at least its car-related, and not how heavy an ounce of water is. ;-) cheers, Will Zehring From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 13:31:10 1999 From: Stephen.Stierman@huntington.com To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 15:29:04 -0500 Subject: banding How many of you aficionados out there know what this banding is really called? It is called Hydem! Makes sense, right? The factory has it in leather of vinyl. A bit expensive to order all by itself, but if you're getting some other stuff too, place an order. S. Stierman 69 +8 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 13:56:20 1999 From: Armando Picciotto To: "'William Zehring'" Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 12:54:45 -0700 Subject: RE: moss box Will, When I first got my +4 some years back, I had the same problem shifting into second from first. A change to Red Line MTL solved it. The Moss box (at least mine) is very particular about the oil you use. You will, of course, still have to double clutch from third to second. I don't get the whine in first. Armando Picciotto '63 +4 -----Original Message----- From: William Zehring [mailto:zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU] Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 12:17 PM To: morgans@autox.team.net Subject: moss box Dear all: I had the opportunity to go for a spin in a moss box-equipped car yesterday (no, not a +4, in this case it was a '64 e-type) and have a few questions... --is first gear a straight cut? In this car there was a pronounced whine. --is the second gear synchro pretty weak? This car (~85k miles) had essentially NO second gear synchro. Pals suggest I shouldn't be surprised at that, but zowie, it sure does crimp your style if you have to nurse it into second every time. --how hard is changing a synchro ring (ignoring for a minute how hard it is to just get to the box in the e-type)? I have great respect for folks brave enough to work on trannys. Okay, so there isn't much direct Morgan content in this; at least its car-related, and not how heavy an ounce of water is. ;-) cheers, Will Zehring From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 14:01:49 1999 From: Stephen.Stierman@huntington.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 15:59:49 -0500 Subject: Re: moss box First gear is straight cut and usually has a chipped tooth or two from being jambed into first on the roll. The synchro rings are pressed into the gear cluster and not readily removable. This is much like T series MG's I believe. The box is very direct particularly in Morgans as the shifter goes right into the top. It is an acquired taste and can truthfully be shifted easily and quitely with a little practice. A bit of hesitation is required in neutral with a double clutch going down on some boxes. S. Stierman 69 +8 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 14:39:36 1999 From: George Gerth To: "'William Zehring'" , Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 13:35:24 -0700 Subject: RE: moss box On Thursday, April 22, 1999 12:17 PM, William Zehring [SMTP:zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU] wrote: > Dear all: > > I had the opportunity to go for a spin in a moss box-equipped car yesterday > (no, not a +4, in this case it was a '64 e-type) and have a few questions... > > --is first gear a straight cut? In this car there was a pronounced whine. > --is the second gear synchro pretty weak? This car (~85k miles) had > essentially NO second gear synchro. Pals suggest I shouldn't be surprised > at that, but zowie, it sure does crimp your style if you have to nurse it > into second every time. > --how hard is changing a synchro ring (ignoring for a minute how hard it is > to just get to the box in the e-type)? I have great respect for folks > brave enough to work on trannys. > Yes, first gear in the Moss/Jag gearbox is straight cut and yes synchros are usually pretty weak. There are adjustments that can help as others on this list can tell you better than I. I just double clutch (heel and toe) up an down. It is quite easy once you get the knack and it entertains your feet! The gear whine in first is one of the notable sounds of old e-types (or any older Jag). It sounded great pulling away from a red light. There was a problem with the moss box on old Jags with the gearbox jamming in first gear. I had the problem occasionally in the XK150 I once had. It probably had something to due with thrust washers because it usually occurred when you coasted down from high rpm in first gear. You tried to pull the gearchange back to neutral and it wouldn't move. I heard of folks bustin the shift forks trying to dis-engage first gear. The trick I learned was to re-accelerate hard again in gear and then pull it out of gear at the redline. Of course this was only possible if you could drive forward! I've never had the problem with the moss box in my +4. George Gerth 1963 Morgan +4 Fond memories of a 1959 Jaguar XK150 Coupe From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 14:47:04 1999 From: Phil Roettjer To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 13:45:56 -0700 Subject: RE: moss box Will, Yes first gear in the Moss box is straight cut on the older E-types as well as on the Morgan +4s. It is also not uncommon for second gear synchro to be shot and I don't believe you can just replace a synchro ring, you must replace the entire gear. On the later E-type tranis (synchros on all 4 gears) you could just replace the synchro rings, but not on the early Moss box. Also I owned an E-type for 18 years and had the opportunity to rebuild the trani about 3 times during that period. Getting it out of the car is not an easy job. You must pull the engine and trani together. It usually would take me about 3 days to get the entire thing out of the car and that was after I had done it a couple of times. Anyway on an E-type with a Moss box, I would recommend replacing it with a later all synchro box. They work pretty well and you can easily replace all the synchros (once you have the trani out of the car) at a reasonable cost (last time I checked each synchro ring only cost about $20). Regards, Phil Roettjer 67 +4 67 MGB > -----Original Message----- > From: William Zehring [SMTP:zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU] > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 3:17 PM > To: morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: moss box > > Dear all: > > I had the opportunity to go for a spin in a moss box-equipped car > yesterday > (no, not a +4, in this case it was a '64 e-type) and have a few > questions... > > --is first gear a straight cut? In this car there was a pronounced whine. > --is the second gear synchro pretty weak? This car (~85k miles) had > essentially NO second gear synchro. Pals suggest I shouldn't be surprised > at that, but zowie, it sure does crimp your style if you have to nurse it > into second every time. > --how hard is changing a synchro ring (ignoring for a minute how hard it > is > to just get to the box in the e-type)? I have great respect for folks > brave enough to work on trannys. > > Okay, so there isn't much direct Morgan content in this; at least its > car-related, and not how heavy an ounce of water is. ;-) > > cheers, > Will Zehring From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 15:41:43 1999 From: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" To: William Zehring Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 17:40:11 -0400 Subject: Re: moss box The synchros are part of the machining of the gear cluster and cannot be changed. My '57 Plus 4, with 24000 miles on the clock and the box and clutch essentially rebuilt to the extent possible and necessary, has a second gear synchro that you either double clutch or you wait a second and ease it in. No quick shifts, especially if it is cold. When warm, a totally different story, but you still pause a bit. According to Larry Eckler, who rebuilt my box, you can replace the bearings, the layshaft, but the gear clusters are scarce and the synchros cannot be replaced. It is possible that the clutch on that Jag wasn't disengaging completely, which would make finding second quietly more difficult. I offer my view because I suspect my Moss box is about as good as one of these boxes can be, my clutch, linkage etc. are all absolutely perfect and I can still beat second gear synchro if I'm in too much of a hurry. I double clutch when the car's cold and take my time when it's warm. Chip Brown. William Zehring wrote: > Dear all: > > I had the opportunity to go for a spin in a moss box-equipped car yesterday > (no, not a +4, in this case it was a '64 e-type) and have a few questions... > > --is first gear a straight cut? In this car there was a pronounced whine. > --is the second gear synchro pretty weak? This car (~85k miles) had > essentially NO second gear synchro. Pals suggest I shouldn't be surprised > at that, but zowie, it sure does crimp your style if you have to nurse it > into second every time. > --how hard is changing a synchro ring (ignoring for a minute how hard it is > to just get to the box in the e-type)? I have great respect for folks > brave enough to work on trannys. > > Okay, so there isn't much direct Morgan content in this; at least its > car-related, and not how heavy an ounce of water is. ;-) > > cheers, > Will Zehring From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 18:56:29 1999 From: Bob Nogueira To: "ARoman4047@aol.com" Date: Thu, 22 Apr 99 19:47:35 -0500 Subject: Re: Specs. please? -- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- -------- REPLY, Original message follows -------- > Date: Thursday, 22-Apr-99 08:13 AM > > From: ARoman4047@aol.com \ America Online: (AROMAN4047) > ....Brilliant exigesis- Now if we could figure a way to market this > properly... > Let's see; measure the pounds feet of torque in "our" system = an 8/10 ratio > or > a 20 percent increase in engine torque with no modifications. > Convert the volume of the car into "their" gallons= the same 8/10 > ratio of > another 20 percent decrease in weight; again with no modifications. > Add these two figures (20 percent + 20 percent), = 40 percent. > Eureka, a > 40 percent increase in the power to weight ratio! > Change those wasteful SU's to a more economical "Fish" carburetor - > "Up > to 200 mpg..." - and use those tablets you just drop in your tank to convert > water > into gas. My God, its a car that goes faster, further, and cheaper...Aint > math won- > derful? > Tony in NJ -------- REPLY, End of original message -------- Tony: Are you the guy who figures Horsepower ratings for Craftman Compressors and shop vacs ? :) Bob Nogueira From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 19:36:07 1999 From: "Vern Dale-Johnson" To: , , Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 21:29:38 -0400 Subject: Re: Specs. please? Whattayamean, Imperial Pints are greater than the "regular" ones? This is a Brit car! An imperial pint is 40 oz, US pint is 32. Vern DJ -----Original Message----- From: jpavone@vanstar.com To: Carfindr@tiac.net ; Morgans@autox.team.net Date: April 21, 1999 9:02 AM Subject: Re: Specs. please? > >My book states 2.1 Imperial pints for the 3HA rear axle. I believe an >Imperial pint is slightly greater than a regular one. Dunno about your >gear box as mine is from the Ford Family. > >regards, > >John >59' 4/4 > > > > >From: Jeff Webster on 04/21/99 05:27 AM PDT > >To: Morgans @ autox.team.net@SMTP@Exchange >cc: >Subject: Specs. please? > >Hi there, >Would someone be kind enough to e-mail me the oil capacity for the back >axle >and the gear box of my 58 Plus 4. It has the Moss Box. >(I know I could normally use the dip stick and fill the rear end until it >comes back out the fill hole - but the back of my car is in the air right >now, and I can't put it down to get a level reading). >One other thing, what are the recommended torque wrench settings for my >wheel/lug nuts? > >Many thanks, > >Jeff > > > > > > begin 666 Vern Dale-Johnson.vcf M0D5'24XZ5D-!4D0-"E9%4E-)3TXZ,BXQ#0I..D1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;CM697)N M#0I&3CI697)N($1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;@T*14U!24P[4%)%1CM)3E1%4DY%5#IV M97)N+F1A;&4M:F]H;G-O;D!M961T To: , "David McCoy" Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 21:50:36 -0400 Subject: Re: Specs. please? Should always read all the c*&p you guys are putting out before answering. But of course, 2 Imperial pints to a quart, for 20 oz each. Good way to remember the conversion is in an Imperial gallon there are 4 Imperial quarts or 5 US quarts (40 vs 32 oz as previously erroneously attributed to pints). Thus to answer the original question, 42 oz (US = Imperial) is, of course, correct. Vern DJ (who learned the difference from his days as a boat jockey when mixing gas for outboards -- thus bleach jugs were US gallon size vs the good old Sherry and Vinegar jugs at 40 oz. We used to sell the "bleach" jug gallons to the Yanks for the same price we sold the Sherry jug gallons to Canadians -- never got a complaint!) Gotta get through college any way you can!) -----Original Message----- From: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com To: David McCoy Cc: morgans@autox.team.net Date: April 22, 1999 8:27 AM Subject: Re: Specs. please? > > > >Dave > >Your pound of sand to be pounded is probably impounded in the pound!! > >Dave Vodden > > > > >gdm@po.cwru.edu (David McCoy) on 22/04/99 12:55:57 > >Please respond to gdm@po.cwru.edu (David McCoy) > >To: morgans@autox.team.net >cc: (bcc: Dave Vodden/Basingstoke/ECI Telecom) >Subject: Re: Specs. please? > > > > >> >> >> >>Very Interesting Ben >> > The slug refered to by "Eric" as a unit of mass was described >>as an archaic American usage but its use would define the pound (weight) >as >>that force required to accellerate a slug at 1 foot/s/s and I guess gives >>an opportunity for a slug force of g pounds. Now if I do that to one of >our >>slugs I get a real flat slug which reduces the toll on the lettuces :-) >> > >This is all very well and good, but I am confused. Does this have anything >to d owit hthe phrase ".....why don't you go pound sand......"? And if so >where is said sand to be pounded? > >Dave McCoy > > > > > > > > > begin 666 Vern Dale-Johnson.vcf M0D5'24XZ5D-!4D0-"E9%4E-)3TXZ,BXQ#0I..D1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;CM697)N M#0I&3CI697)N($1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;@T*14U!24P[4%)%1CM)3E1%4DY%5#IV M97)N+F1A;&4M:F]H;G-O;D!M961T To: vern_dj@email.msn.com Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 20:50:43 PDT Subject: pints, quarts Vern, Taking advantage of the Yanks. Shame, shame! Most Canucks simply rip off the government for student loans. -Snake >From: "Vern Dale-Johnson" >(who learned the difference from his days as a boat jockey when mixing gas >for outboards -- thus bleach jugs were US gallon size vs the good old Sherry >and Vinegar jugs at 40 oz. We used to sell the "bleach" jug gallons to the >Yanks for the same price we sold the Sherry jug gallons to Canadians -- >never got a complaint!) Gotta get through college any way you can!) > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 22:16:53 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 00:14:39 EDT Subject: Universal truths found under a Morgan Just finished a midnight shop session under the 4/4, installing bumpers, new oil pan, removing oil cooler, etc. There's bound to be a lesson in human behavior to be learned from this car. Summary - (condition of car when I got it....) Engine - Built right. 1700cc Ford, smooth, quiet, oil-tight, runs cool, aluminum radiator, big cam, big valves, headers, Jacobs ignition. Not an expert, but I'll say 130 hp or more. Carb - Weber downdraught. Jetted and tuned spot on. Starts immediately, responds instantly, no flat spots from idle to redline. Steering - Gemmer box, no play, tracks straight. Car weighs 1420 pounds fueled up on the truck scales at the quarry (fiberglas wings help; sorry, SVRA). Gearing - Just right. 4.1/1 ratio, close-ratio trans (snick-snick just like a light switch). 3500 rpm at 65 mph. 7200 rpm rev-limiter and I'll betcha it'll pull to redline in fourth. But I haven't been able to find out yet because.... Wiring - Absolute freaking bodge job. Every wire on the car has been spliced, twisted together, shorted against the frame. Wires are connected together in mid-air with 1/4-20 bolts. Seven miles of drooping oily black tape. I've pulled at least 100 feet of wire out of the car that goes nowhere and there's still lots left. Grounds are all lousy, connectors "crimped" with regular pliers, no color codes; at one point a 15 foot piece was used to connect two points 6 inches apart and the rest just jammed under the dash in a big wad. Why, oh why, would someone spend somewhere between $5- and $10,000 on all that nice equipment, Accusumps, Watts links, 6-1/2 welded wheels, fuel cells, built engine, etc. and then leave a wiring job that won't let the car go one lap without something falling off? It's like Ben Grimm built 90% of the car and then turned into The Thing to finish the wiring and just slammed it together with his mitts. Is it a comment on the human condition? I'm torn between getting a stock wiring harness and working from there, or wiring it the way I've always wanted to wire one, aircraft-style with labels, squared-off wire runs, all-soldered connections, etc. Since it's already a bit non-stock (although what Morgan isn't), I'll probably go for the aircraft style, one circuit at a time.... Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 22 22:20:31 1999 From: ARoman4047@aol.com To: nogera@prodigy.net Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 23:46:18 EDT Subject: Re: Specs. please? Bob: Curses, foiled again! By the way, perhaps you'd be interested in purchasing some Upsey-Daisium Mining Stock? Tony in NJ From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 04:24:18 1999 From: "Gary" To: "Morgan Mail List" Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 18:27:28 +0800 Subject: RE: moss box Yep, sounds like a Moss box to me! I always double clutch up (and down) into second - you get better with practice. The real cute effect is to change gear without the clutch - just get the revs right and hold it with light pressure and it just slips in. Impresses the passenger no end! The other good thing about the Moss box is that, when you let someone else try to drive it they can never change like you can - thus proving that you are a superior being! Cheers Gary Arcus Western Australia 1954 +4 Original Message > Dear all: > > I had the opportunity to go for a spin in a moss box-equipped car > yesterday > (no, not a +4, in this case it was a '64 e-type) and have a few > questions... > > --is first gear a straight cut? In this car there was a pronounced whine. > --is the second gear synchro pretty weak? [big snips] From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 06:46:41 1999 From: "Stuart J. Ross" To: , Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 08:49:42 -0400 Subject: Re: Specs. please? I am piggy-backing this to Tony's message because I can't seem to get directly to the group due to something in my email system. I am working on that. Anyhow, fellow Moggers, here is the news: Sunday, May 2 in Lewis Morris Park near Morristown, NJ, the Three/Four Morgan Group will meet for its NJ opening run. The NJ Triumph Club holds a British Car Day at the park. ($5 admission for a car. You get a dash plaque). We will meet at the show, stay and socialize, then leave for a 17 mile scenic tour ending at Willies Tavern in Bedminster, NJ for lunch. The show is very low key (no judging) and the setting is attractive. Non members of the 3/4 Group are invited. We would like to see Morgans "show the marque". More at www.team.net/www/morgan/events/34group.html ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 11:46 PM Subject: Re: Specs. please? > Bob: > Curses, foiled again! By the way, perhaps you'd be interested in > purchasing > some Upsey-Daisium Mining Stock? > Tony in NJ From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 07:10:42 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 09:09:15 -0400 Subject: RE: Specs. please? Vern Dale-Johnson's mini-autobiographical sketch, > (who learned the difference from his days as a boat jockey when mixing gas > for outboards -- thus bleach jugs were US gallon size vs the good old > Sherry > and Vinegar jugs at 40 oz. We used to sell the "bleach" jug gallons to > the > Yanks for the same price we sold the Sherry jug gallons to Canadians -- > never got a complaint!) Gotta get through college any way you can!) > prompts me to make two comments: 1) don't judge all Canadians by his modus operandi 2) remind me never to buy anything from this guy, especially used cars! Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 Pinawa, MB Canada From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 07:20:56 1999 From: "Stuart J. Ross" To: Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 09:24:22 -0400 Subject: May event for the Three/Four Group The 3/4 Group will hold our NJ version of an opening run on Sunday, May 2nd. We will first attend the NJ Triumph Club's British Car Day at Lewis Morris Park on Rt 24 near Morristown, NJ starting at 9 AM. There is a $5 fee for the show. It is a low key event with no judging, just socializing in a pleasant park setting. In the early afternoon, we will leave for a 17 mile scenic tour ending at Willies Tavern in Bedminster for lunch. Non-members are invited to join us for the show and tour and lunch. We'd like to "show the marque". Look at www.team.net/www/morgan/events/34group.html or reply to this message asap. Thanks................... From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 08:23:27 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: Morgan Mail List , "'Gary'" Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:21:24 -0400 Subject: RE: moss box Gary, I agree; changing gears without the clutch provides great satisfaction. To me, there used to be (past tense because the +4 has been "laid up" longer than I like to think) this fear that there would be a grinding sound and the relief that the shift lever moved like a knife though warm butter. However, I was never able to impress my passenger because they could not see my left leg not moving during the shifting (it's rather dark down there underneath the dash). Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 Pinawa, MB > ---------- > From: Gary[SMTP:garc@iinet.net.au] > Reply To: Gary > Sent: Friday, April 23, 1999 5:27 AM > To: Morgan Mail List > Subject: RE: moss box > > Yep, sounds like a Moss box to me! I always double clutch up (and down) > into second - you get better with practice. The real cute effect is to > change gear without the clutch - just get the revs right and hold it with > light pressure and it just slips in. Impresses the passenger no end! > > The other good thing about the Moss box is that, when you let someone else > try to drive it they can never change like you can - thus proving that you > are a superior being! > > Cheers > Gary Arcus > Western Australia > 1954 +4 > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 08:28:10 1999 From: jpavone@vanstar.com To: Carfindr@tiac.net, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 07:26:18 -0700 Subject: Correction on Re: Specs. please? Rechecked the book, it states 2 1/2 imperial pints for the rear axle and also 2 1/2 imperial pints for the moss gearbox. The wheel lug torque spec is 70/80 ft lbs. ---------------------- Forwarded by John Pavone/Notes4/Vanstar on 04/23/99 10:20 AM --------------------------- John Pavone 04/21/99 08:56 AM To: Carfindr @ tiac.net, Morgans @ autox.team.net cc: Subject: Re: Specs. please? (Document link not converted) My book states 2.1 Imperial pints for the 3HA rear axle. I believe an Imperial pint is slightly greater than a regular one. Dunno about your gear box as mine is from the Ford Family. regards, John 59' 4/4 From: Jeff Webster on 04/21/99 05:27 AM PDT To: Morgans @ autox.team.net@SMTP@Exchange cc: Subject: Specs. please? Hi there, Would someone be kind enough to e-mail me the oil capacity for the back axle and the gear box of my 58 Plus 4. It has the Moss Box. (I know I could normally use the dip stick and fill the rear end until it comes back out the fill hole - but the back of my car is in the air right now, and I can't put it down to get a level reading). One other thing, what are the recommended torque wrench settings for my wheel/lug nuts? Many thanks, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 15:18:21 1999 From: jimgcusavecom@webtv.net (Jim G) To: vandergraaft@aecl.ca (Vandergraaf, Chuck) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 17:16:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: RE: Specs. please? --WebTV-Mail-557510410-6031 Chuck, I AGREE WITH Both OF YOUR STATEMENTS. I can't beleive some people think that cheating people is a joke. Jim --WebTV-Mail-557510410-6031 Content-Disposition: Inline Received: from mailsorter-101-1.iap.bryant.webtv.net (209.240.198.97) by postoffice-152.iap.bryant.webtv.net; Fri, 23 Apr 1999 06:44:49 -0700 (PDT) Return-Path: Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu (triumph.cs.utah.edu [155.99.188.52]) by mailsorter-101-1.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.graham.14Aug97) with ESMTP id GAA14703; Fri, 23 Apr 1999 06:44:47 -0700 (PDT) Received: (from majordom@localhost) by triumph.cs.utah.edu (8.9.1/8.9.1) id HAA03794 for morgans-actors; Fri, 23 Apr 1999 07:10:34 -0600 (MDT) Message-ID: From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" Cc: morgans@autox.team.net, Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com, David McCoy , "'Vern Dale-Johnson'" To: To: To: Subject: RE: Specs. please? Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 09:09:15 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2232.9) Sender: owner-morgans@autox.team.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" Vern Dale-Johnson's mini-autobiographical sketch, > (who learned the difference from his days as a boat jockey when mixing gas > for outboards -- thus bleach jugs were US gallon size vs the good old > Sherry > and Vinegar jugs at 40 oz. We used to sell the "bleach" jug gallons to > the > Yanks for the same price we sold the Sherry jug gallons to Canadians -- > never got a complaint!) Gotta get through college any way you can!) > prompts me to make two comments: 1) don't judge all Canadians by his modus operandi 2) remind me never to buy anything from this guy, especially used cars! Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 Pinawa, MB Canada --WebTV-Mail-557510410-6031-- From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 16:39:16 1999 From: Jack McNaughton To: , "morgan list" Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 15:39:48 -0700 Subject: Re: Correction on Re: Specs. please? Don't believe everything you read in a book! On page 134 in my copy of "Completely Morgan ... 1936-1968" there is a caption that reads "Simple and to the point: this 1955 brouchure was the first to actually include the new rear-engined Series II 4/4 which was introduced in October 1955." A very rare car. John McNaughton, Morgan Driver From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 17:03:03 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: mogger@pacbell.net, jpavone@vanstar.com, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 18:57:58 EDT Subject: Re: Correction on Re: Specs. please? In a message dated 4/23/99 18:44:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, mogger@pacbell.net writes: << Don't believe everything you read in a book! On page 134 in my copy of "Completely Morgan ... 1936-1968" there is a caption that reads "Simple and to the point: this 1955 brouchure was the first to actually include the new rear-engined Series II 4/4 which was introduced in October 1955." A very rare car. John McNaughton, Morgan Driver >> Now that's interesting! What do you suppose they really meant? Was there a new engine type that sounded like "rear" introduced that year? Or is this a rare and valuable misprint, like the stamps with airplanes upside down on them? Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 17:30:36 1999 From: "Stuart J. Ross" To: , , , Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 19:33:47 -0400 Subject: Re: Correction on Re: Specs. please? Ach, der vamous Volksmorgan. Ya das ist der avtombile vrom Pickersleighberg mit der moteren in das bach. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Friday, April 23, 1999 6:57 PM Subject: Re: Correction on Re: Specs. please? > In a message dated 4/23/99 18:44:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > mogger@pacbell.net writes: > > << Don't believe everything you read in a book! On page 134 in my copy of > "Completely Morgan ... 1936-1968" there is a caption that reads "Simple > and to the point: this 1955 brouchure was the first to actually include > the new rear-engined Series II 4/4 which was introduced in October 1955." > A very rare car. > > John McNaughton, Morgan Driver > >> > Now that's interesting! What do you suppose they really meant? Was there a > new engine type that sounded like "rear" introduced that year? Or is this a > rare and valuable misprint, like the stamps with airplanes upside down on > them? > > > Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 19:23:33 1999 From: toad To: "William G. Lamb, III" Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:23:42 -0400 Subject: Re: Specs. please? William G. Lamb, III wrote: > > My Lord, we are an old bunch! Jacky Fisher might have been the biggest > proponent of H.M.S. Dreadnought, but it was Percy Scott who figured out > how to get some use out of the thing, (Father of modern naval gunnery), > and Admiral Lord Jellicoe, the only man capable of forfeiting W.W. I in > a single battle, and made sufficient impression at Jutland, (no help from > Beatty), turning a slight tactical defeat into a strategic victory, (the > German > Fleet never again dared sail again). The U.S.S. BB was not exactly based > on contemporary Dreadnoughts. I vaguely recall reading that we were earlier > in converting to oil due to the distances our Fleet needed to travel, and we > were first at eliminating casement guns which were a hold-over in the R.N.. > from wooden ships of the line, (as these had a rather limited field of fire). > > W.G.L.,III (long, long ago U.S.N.) > > At 08:55 PM 4/21/99 -0400, toad wrote: > > > >And don't forget the American warship is still a Jackie Fisher design. > >Who was Jackie Fisher? > >Anybody know?? > > > >Toad > > Evening You are good. Or rather GREAT. I am not sure I would agree about your thoughts on Percy but one must remember that Jellicoe within 12 hours of Jutland did signal the Admiralty he was once again capable to resume battle and it was Fisher who was the First Lord of the Admiralty at the onset of the First World War as I recall. (without checking my reference books) Thanks again Toad From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 23 19:33:35 1999 From: "Vern Dale-Johnson" To: "Jeff Webster" , Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:25:59 -0400 Subject: Re: Specs. please? I'm afraid to even open my email to see what statements have been thrown at me. Woke up at 3 am realizing another grevious error -- of course US gallons have 128 oz, vs the 160 of the imperial gallon. Got me to thinking though, how did the US decide on 128 oz in a gallon? They used the same size ounce so..... either some shady Americans were trying to trick the Brits (and, if so, I have no regrets for our little scam as kids selling boat gas) or..... could it be that some enterprising Texan decided to set the size of a US gallon based on what he could get in his hat? Mighty big hat it was, too... was able to get 8 imperial gallons in but... as is most common with Texans (even Canadians know they exaggerate) decided to call it an even "10" and thus the 1280 ounces of the imperial 8 became 10 US gallons at 128 ounces each and the "10 gallon hat" was born. Further explanation by those who are privy to the details of such history would be appreciated. And yes, I will not be answering emails on-line in future, will revert to my normal disconnect, read, reply, reconnect and send. Then, at least, I have time to think through my errors before the world confirms the errors inherent in my hasty response. Jeff -- just don't underfill that dif! Vern DJ -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Webster To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: April 21, 1999 8:33 AM Subject: Specs. please? >Hi there, >Would someone be kind enough to e-mail me the oil capacity for the back axle >and the gear box of my 58 Plus 4. It has the Moss Box. >(I know I could normally use the dip stick and fill the rear end until it >comes back out the fill hole - but the back of my car is in the air right >now, and I can't put it down to get a level reading). >One other thing, what are the recommended torque wrench settings for my >wheel/lug nuts? > >Many thanks, > >Jeff > begin 666 Vern Dale-Johnson.vcf M0D5'24XZ5D-!4D0-"E9%4E-)3TXZ,BXQ#0I..D1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;CM697)N M#0I&3CI697)N($1A;&4M2F]H;G-O;@T*14U!24P[4%)%1CM)3E1%4DY%5#IV M97)N+F1A;&4M:F]H;G-O;D!M961T To: Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 13:03:58 -0400 Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. Hi Gang, Are there any tips you can offer when it comes to adjusting the bonnets on Morgans? One side seems to fit pretty good - the other is horrible. It is the original bonnet - so at this time I am convinced it's just a matter of adjustment. The bonnet was removed by the PO for a paint job, and I presume not put back right. Where is the best place to start - the top bulkhead hinge pin, the cowl hinge pin, should I loosen/remove the cowl, get the bonnet right and then sort the cowl out last? Comments/suggestions please,' Regards, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 24 11:08:56 1999 From: tjsouz@epix.net To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 10:09:09 -0700 Subject: Re: Correction on Re: Specs. please? Jack McNaughton wrote: > > Don't believe everything you read in a book! Amen, John! I think Ken Hill probably wrote that the new 4/4 was "re-engined". The earlier 4-4, as it was then called, had the Coventry Climax and the Standard Special engines. The Series II 4/4 was re-engined with a Ford powerplant. (Many will chuckle over the idea of "power" in that term.) We could start a whole new thread of mistakes in Morgan publications. It could be informative as well as fun. Looking through "Morgan the Last Survivor" by Chris Harvey I found several pictures that were mislabeled, especially in the sections on early cars. For instance the picture at the bottom right of page 89 is a of a +4 not a Series I. Likewise the picture at the top right of page 91 is of the same +4, not a Series I 4-4. Did any +4's have seats like those on the bottom of page 107? These errors are particularly lamentable in a section titled "Contemporary Road Testers' Reports. So, what say we start a thread labelled ERRATA. Regards to all, Tony Souza From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 24 12:03:18 1999 From: "Christian Ness" To: Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 11:02:55 -0700 Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. I have a similar situation on my '61 Plus 4. The starboard bonnet front lower corner has made a hole in the radiator shroud from flapping against it. It had a rubber triangle protecting it until recently but I lost it on the road. Is the rubber triangle original equipment? Also the rear gap is larger on that side than the other, better fitting, side. I can't quite work out what the source of the problem is but have two candidates. There is a very subtle bend in the right part of the front bumper that is not matched by the left and there is a crack in the starboard wing where the running light mounts and no corresponding damage in the port wing. These might be evidence of a collision or damage in the past (not on my watch) but the bumper could have been caused by a minor brush with something, and the fender crack I understand to be a normal sort of aging process in Morgans. More importantly, the car tracks straight and there is absolutely no evidence of misalignment in the area of the frame or suspension. Could the radiator shroud be mounted slightly off or the cut of the bonnet sheet metal be that far off correct? Both are original, I believe, and don't look as though any poorly done work was performed. My second candidate is the rather well made and attractive wind box and air filter arrangement the previous owner fabricated from aluminum (or is it alumin-i-um on a Morgan?) for the SU's...I can open and close the starboard bonnet half easily so I don't feel it is hitting. But perhaps the 'stretching' or moving out of position necessary to accomodate this has already happened. Chris Ness 1961 Plus 4 -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Webster To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Saturday, April 24, 1999 10:08 AM Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. >Hi Gang, >Are there any tips you can offer when it comes to adjusting the bonnets on >Morgans? One side seems to fit pretty good - the other is horrible. It is >the original bonnet - so at this time I am convinced it's just a matter of >adjustment. The bonnet was removed by the PO for a paint job, and I presume >not put back right. Where is the best place to start - the top bulkhead >hinge pin, the cowl hinge pin, should I loosen/remove the cowl, get the >bonnet right and then sort the cowl out last? > >Comments/suggestions please,' > >Regards, > >Jeff > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 24 14:08:09 1999 From: Gukedad@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 16:06:31 EDT Subject: Liquidating Collection The time has come to direct my energies in a different direction, hence I am putting my Morgans up for sale. I have the following: 1. '65 DHC fully restored. Guards red with camel leather and black cloth top. Used just about daily. Stunning 2. '67 Super Sport project too much to list 3. New Narrow body +4 4 seater body wood kit (Morgan fab) 4. New Super Sport Chassis 5. 60 degree JAP LTOWZ Spec with Strengthened DTZ case (80% + complete) 6. Misc. engine, carb setups, etc., 7. '58 title 8. '68 MGC roadster. Ground up restoration. Needs details to complete. How did that get in here? Either e-mail with phone number or ask questions on line. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 24 14:36:46 1999 From: "Greg Solow" To: , , Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 13:33:09 -0700 Subject: Re: Correction on Re: Specs. please? We lubricate the lug nuts with "never seize" and torque them to 40 lbs. ft torque. Because the end of the studs going into the wheel hub are smaller than the end that goes through the wheel, the torque that the stud can safely take is limited by the inner end. Forty lbs.. of torque is plenty to hold the wheel securely, 70 or 80 is almost surely guaranteed to either damage the threads of the nuts or studs or loosen the studs from the hubs. This information applies the all Morgans up to 1968, not necessarily to +8s and later other models. Regards, Greg Solow -----Original Message----- From: jpavone@vanstar.com To: Carfindr@tiac.net ; morgans@autox.team.net Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 7:48 AM Subject: Correction on Re: Specs. please? > >Rechecked the book, it states 2 1/2 imperial pints for the rear axle and >also 2 1/2 imperial pints for the moss gearbox. The wheel lug torque spec >is 70/80 ft lbs. > >---------------------- Forwarded by John Pavone/Notes4/Vanstar on 04/23/99 >10:20 AM --------------------------- > > >John Pavone >04/21/99 08:56 AM > >To: Carfindr @ tiac.net, Morgans @ autox.team.net >cc: >Subject: Re: Specs. please? (Document link not converted) > >My book states 2.1 Imperial pints for the 3HA rear axle. I believe an >Imperial pint is slightly greater than a regular one. Dunno about your >gear box as mine is from the Ford Family. > >regards, > >John >59' 4/4 > > > > >From: Jeff Webster on 04/21/99 05:27 AM PDT > >To: Morgans @ autox.team.net@SMTP@Exchange >cc: >Subject: Specs. please? > >Hi there, >Would someone be kind enough to e-mail me the oil capacity for the back >axle >and the gear box of my 58 Plus 4. It has the Moss Box. >(I know I could normally use the dip stick and fill the rear end until it >comes back out the fill hole - but the back of my car is in the air right >now, and I can't put it down to get a level reading). >One other thing, what are the recommended torque wrench settings for my >wheel/lug nuts? > >Many thanks, > >Jeff > > > > > > > > > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 24 14:56:22 1999 From: "Greg Solow" To: "Christian Ness" , Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 13:52:43 -0700 Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. Stand behind your car with the top down and sight down the centerline of the car. Use the center of the spare tire (or the wire wheel attachment wing nut) and the center of the dash, the horn button is a good reference, as sights. Then follow these sightlines out to the chrome hinge that is the centerline of the bonnet. Note whether the chrome hinge goes off to the right or the left. It should be exactly straight and in line with the horn button and the center of the spare tire. If it is not the bodywork to bent and out of alighnment. NOTE, the frame can be straight and the body still be bent! Often the frame is straight and the valence panels are bent of to theright or left. Since the fenders mount on the valences, if the valences are out of alighnment the fenders and nose will be out of alighnment. Repairing this kind of damage is a MAJOR production. As the fenders and valences go to the right, for example, the right fender will drop at the wing lamp and the left fender will get to high. To realign the front body you must start with the frame , then the valences, then the fenders and the nose and the bonnets. Regards, Greg Solow -----Original Message----- From: Christian Ness To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Saturday, April 24, 1999 11:27 AM Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. >I have a similar situation on my '61 Plus 4. The starboard bonnet front >lower corner has made a hole in the radiator shroud from flapping against >it. It had a rubber triangle protecting it until recently but I lost it on >the road. Is the rubber triangle original equipment? Also the rear gap is >larger on that side than the other, better fitting, side. I can't quite >work out what the source of the problem is but have two candidates. There >is a very subtle bend in the right part of the front bumper that is not >matched by the left and there is a crack in the starboard wing where the >running light mounts and no corresponding damage in the port wing. These >might be evidence of a collision or damage in the past (not on my watch) but >the bumper could have been caused by a minor brush with something, and the >fender crack I understand to be a normal sort of aging process in Morgans. >More importantly, the car tracks straight and there is absolutely no >evidence of misalignment in the area of the frame or suspension. Could the >radiator shroud be mounted slightly off or the cut of the bonnet sheet metal >be that far off correct? Both are original, I believe, and don't look as >though any poorly done work was performed. > >My second candidate is the rather well made and attractive wind box and air >filter arrangement the previous owner fabricated from aluminum (or is it >alumin-i-um on a Morgan?) for the SU's...I can open and close the starboard >bonnet half easily so I don't feel it is hitting. But perhaps the >'stretching' or moving out of position necessary to accomodate this has >already happened. > >Chris Ness >1961 Plus 4 > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Jeff Webster >To: Morgans@autox.team.net >Date: Saturday, April 24, 1999 10:08 AM >Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. > > >>Hi Gang, >>Are there any tips you can offer when it comes to adjusting the bonnets on >>Morgans? One side seems to fit pretty good - the other is horrible. It is >>the original bonnet - so at this time I am convinced it's just a matter of >>adjustment. The bonnet was removed by the PO for a paint job, and I presume >>not put back right. Where is the best place to start - the top bulkhead >>hinge pin, the cowl hinge pin, should I loosen/remove the cowl, get the >>bonnet right and then sort the cowl out last? >> >>Comments/suggestions please,' >> >>Regards, >> >>Jeff >> >> > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 24 16:45:24 1999 From: toad To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 18:46:25 -0400 Subject: Ammeter Brethren Would anyone have a vintage Lucas Ammeter befitting a 1933 Super Sport (affectionately dubbed Angus) they would be willing to part with for coin of the realm? Thanks Toad '59 Plus 4 '57 Plus 4 and naturally Angus. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 24 17:15:13 1999 From: Peter White To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 11:19:13 +1200 Subject: +8 Works Prototype For Sale Business expansion plans reluctantly mean I have to sell my prize possession. R9300 "The" Fuel Injected +8 prototype car. First registered in 1984, Peter Morgan's personal drive car for several years, wore the famous works plates "MMC 11" for several years, owned by Morgan Motor Company until 1997. In later years was used as a development car so has many prototype and late model features. Fascinating history only some of which I have uncovered. This vehicle has been the subject of many magazine articles and pictured in most books on the history of Morgans. A ground up, back to metal, no expence spared, restoration has just been completed. The vehicle is for sale for US$44,000. This is not negotiable .. it won't be sold for less. No time wasters or dreamers please. Peter White New Zealand e-mail address: an5@deepsouth.co.nz From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 24 17:15:16 1999 From: Peter White To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 11:19:11 +1200 Subject: Improved front suspension seal There was a thread on this list some time ago which looked at ways of excluding water and road grit from the front suspension ( and keeping lubricant in). On rebuilding the front suspension on my +8 I planned to make Fred Sissons modification ("O"ring held in place by a small section of the old bush).... as an aside, I concur with others ... Fred's book "Morgan Drivers's Bedside Reader " is a must own book. I took all components to my local engineer to be fitted and he made the comment that "O" rings are primarly designed for sealing rotating shafts not sliding ones.. we talked about it for a bit and finally decided to use hydraulic rams seal which are designed for predominantly sliding shafts. My engineer friend turned a recess in the bush to hold the seal in place.... so far have had no problems. Peter White NZ From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 24 19:13:20 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:11:31 -0400 Subject: SU carb Settings Hi all, This is a question for those with SU carbs. My '58 Plus 4 has H6 carbs (I think), my question has to do with the main jet 'base' setting. (I can't remember and don't have my manual at hand, so) When you are setting up the main jet for initial mixture tuning - do you raise the jet so it is level with the bridge and then unscrew it (is it) 3 full turns? If this makes any sense to you - drop me a note, Many thanks, Jeff. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 24 21:09:39 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:01:19 -0400 Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. At 01:03 PM 4/24/99 -0400, you wrote: >Hi Gang, >Are there any tips you can offer when it comes to adjusting the bonnets on >Morgans? One side seems to fit pretty good - the other is horrible. It is >the original bonnet - so at this time I am convinced it's just a matter of >adjustment. The bonnet was removed by the PO for a paint job, and I presume >not put back right. Where is the best place to start - the top bulkhead >hinge pin, the cowl hinge pin, should I loosen/remove the cowl, get the >bonnet right and then sort the cowl out last? Jeff, If you figure it out, how about writting an article for the Morgan Web page! I have the same problem. When I reinstalled the hood after restoring my car, it doesn't fit with squat. I have posted several times and directly mailed the question to several other knowledgeable Morgan owners. What I've learned is: 1. Supposedly adjusting the front nose will help. You should have slots cut in the nose and the front of the front fenders and valances. This will allow the nose to be moved upward and backwards or tilted a little. 2. What one person told me was that the hood is the LAST thing to be worked on. After the rest of the car is painted and fitted, they place the hood. If you look closely at the front and rear of the hoods by the hinges you'll see a small "L" sort-of shaped reinforcement plate. They weld another piece of metal to that. Then by grinding it away, the can adjust where the hood is sitting. Then the hood is painted and installed. 3. I'm about to try a similar thing, but I'm going to try and play with the brass end plates for the hinges. My car is completely finished, but the hood moves for and aft on the hinge. It can be positioned so it is fitting nicely over the eng. bay. But it doesn't stay there. It moves. Since new end caps are only about $12 ea, I've ordered 2 new ones. I'm going to try and put new end caps on the hing and hope that they are longer then my original ones. Then grind each side of the end plate to adjust the position of the hinge. If necessary, I will braze and extension on the end plates. 4. I've also been told that the bar that runs behind the radiator can be adjusted to help. However, that will only spread the front of the eng. bay opening a little. That didn't help in my case. John John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: webus80.wang.com/BI (new adderss) From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sat Apr 24 22:25:13 1999 From: "F Kuzyk" To: "Christian Ness" , Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 00:24:08 -0400 Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. -----Original Message----- From: Christian Ness To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Saturday, April 24, 1999 2:29 PM Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. >I have a similar situation on my '61 Plus 4. The starboard bonnet front >lower corner has made a hole in the radiator shroud from flapping against >it. It had a rubber triangle protecting it until recently but I lost it on >the road. Is the rubber triangle original equipment? Chris, Can't say whether the little rubber triangles are original, but they certainly are a popular item, available from Melvyn Rutter & others. I've lost one or two over time. >There is a very subtle bend in the right part of the front bumper that is not >matched by the left and there is a crack in the starboard wing where the >running light mounts and no corresponding damage in the port wing. These >might be evidence of a collision or damage in the past .... and the >fender crack I understand to be a normal sort of aging process in Morgans. Right, the fender cracks can occur without any damage. Not really due so much to "normal aging" but as a result of the design that places so much of the support for the wing on that one area. A popular fix is to re-inforce the wing with a plate underneath. Our crack has developed on the port wing. Morgan believes in equal opportunity & ambi-dexterity! I gave up some time ago trying to get the bonnet or doors "just right". Instead, have learned to live with it. Such slight imperfection adds character & uniqueness to the car, or so I keep trying to convince myself. I think it was Yoda who said: don't change the Morgan, let the Morgan change you. Cheers, Fred Kuzyk MSCCC Webmaster Visit the Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada Web site at: http://members.xoom.com/msccc/ For info on cigars, local cigar clubs & events, etc; visit my other web site Holy Smokes http://members.xoom.com/holysmokes/ From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 25 03:33:28 1999 From: "Alan Aron" To: "F Kuzyk" , Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 09:27:41 +0100 Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. For everyone's information, the rubber corners are available from Woolies in England at a lower cost than other places. This is also a great source for every and any type of trim item from "lift the dot" fasteners to hidem stripping in various colors. If Woolies doesn't have it no one does. They also do carpeting and covering materials. Alan Aron '64 +4 ---------- > From: F Kuzyk > To: Christian Ness ; Morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. > Date: 25 April 1999 05:24 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Christian Ness > To: Morgans@autox.team.net > Date: Saturday, April 24, 1999 2:29 PM > Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. > > > >I have a similar situation on my '61 Plus 4. The starboard bonnet front > >lower corner has made a hole in the radiator shroud from flapping against > >it. It had a rubber triangle protecting it until recently but I lost it on > >the road. Is the rubber triangle original equipment? > > Chris, > Can't say whether the little rubber triangles are original, but they > certainly are a popular item, available from Melvyn Rutter & others. I've > lost one or two over time. > > > >There is a very subtle bend in the right part of the front bumper that is > not > >matched by the left and there is a crack in the starboard wing where the > >running light mounts and no corresponding damage in the port wing. These > >might be evidence of a collision or damage in the past .... and the > >fender crack I understand to be a normal sort of aging process in Morgans. > > > Right, the fender cracks can occur without any damage. Not really due so > much to "normal aging" but as a result of the design that places so much of > the support for the wing on that one area. A popular fix is to re-inforce > the wing with a plate underneath. Our crack has developed on the port wing. > Morgan believes in equal opportunity & ambi-dexterity! > > I gave up some time ago trying to get the bonnet or doors "just right". > Instead, have learned to live with it. Such slight imperfection adds > character & uniqueness to the car, or so I keep trying to convince myself. I > think it was Yoda who said: don't change the Morgan, let the Morgan change > you. > > Cheers, > Fred Kuzyk > MSCCC Webmaster > Visit the Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada Web site at: > http://members.xoom.com/msccc/ > > For info on cigars, local cigar clubs & events, etc; visit my other web site > Holy Smokes > http://members.xoom.com/holysmokes/ > > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 25 07:46:25 1999 From: Jeremy Edwards To: Jeff Webster Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 14:40:06 +0100 Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. Jeff Webster writes >Hi Gang, >Are there any tips you can offer when it comes to adjusting the bonnets on >Morgans? One side seems to fit pretty good - the other is horrible. It is >the original bonnet - so at this time I am convinced it's just a matter of >adjustment. The bonnet was removed by the PO for a paint job, and I presume >not put back right. Where is the best place to start - the top bulkhead >hinge pin, the cowl hinge pin, should I loosen/remove the cowl, get the >bonnet right and then sort the cowl out last? When the car was built, the bonnet (hood?) was made last, partly to make adjustment for all of the small variables that may effect the shape of the hole. Some books suggest that doing anything major to the front of the car will necessitate a new bonnet being made. Assuming that you are not made of money and near enough will do, the suggestion of the previous writer, to start by centralising the chrome strip by altering the cowl is good advice. The little rubber corners are sold by a few places and are not a standard fitting- that'll upset the concours types! (You can easily tell these were built to a price) Incidentally, the webbing tape threaded through the cowl would have bee sprayed on the car, so pristine off-white tape is non-original too! -- Jeremy Edwards 1972 Morgan 4/4 Melton Mowbray, England From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 25 07:55:00 1999 From: Colin Cobb To: Peter White Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 06:57:36 -0600 Subject: Re: +8 Works Prototype For Sale >> No time wasters or dreamers please. << I knew it was bound to happen... Now we can't even dream! Ah, well... --Colin Cobb, Las Cruces, NM, USA '65 Tiger MKI, '66 Morgan Plus 4, '67 Alpine SV From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 25 09:06:18 1999 From: CHarris990@aol.com To: alana@legend.co.uk, fkuzyk@cgocable.net, cqness@worldnet.att.net, Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 11:02:30 EDT Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. -->> [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- 1. Morgans are to other cars what sneakers are to patient leather shoes 2. Interesting Morgan Fact: No one on the Morgan Board of Directors speaks German ! 3. Morgans are the least rare British Sports car:, If you can't find a used one for sale, ring up your local dealer and they will deliver you a new one in 6 month 4. Good British cars are lovingly remembered, but. Great British cars are still being built. 5. In the 1960's the builders of MG, Triumph, AH believed Morgan was not in their class as an auto builder: In the 1990's these same builders think..................? They were right ! 6. THE MORGAN MOTOR CAR COMPANY LTD. A subsidiary of : THE MORGAN MOTOR CAR COMPANY LTD 7 . Morgans: When you got it right the first time there is no need to change it. 8. During the 60's MG, Triumph and AH each produced more cars in a week than Morgan did in a year In 1998 Morgan produced 500 more cars than all three of them combined. 9. Interestingly, A new Morgan meets all Crash and safety standards. It actually performed better than many mass produced cars. For your next car Think Morgan , For the sake of the kids . Tell me what you think. Bob Nogueira << Friends, This is All British Car Day in North Texas. I just thought you might enjoy some of Bob's signs which will be displayed on our cars. The Jaguar club is in charge of this event, and due to 4/4's and Bob's sensitivity he makes no direct reference to Ford. Harris From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 25 11:29:23 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 13:27:28 -0400 Subject: Rear Wheel Hub Removal HELP! What am I missing? I have removed the rear brake drum of my '58 Plus 4, removed the split pin, removed the castle nut, removed the large washer, placed a large hub puller on the hub but it will not budge!!! Do I have to remove the four nuts and bolts on the backing plate? Or any thing else - why is this hub not coming off? Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 25 11:48:31 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: CHarris990@aol.com, alana@legend.co.uk, fkuzyk@cgocable.net, Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 13:45:57 EDT Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. Would probably be best not to give Triumph a hard time either, along with Ford, as long as we're being sensitive to the needs and sensibilities of Jaguars and 4/4s. Morgan has done well and uniquely to soldier on, but if it weren't for those tens of thousands of TRs sold in the 50's and 60's supplying enough volume to provide a cheap engine, there would have been some mighty quiet (0 decibels) Morgans during that time....... Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 25 13:39:14 1999 From: HOOGLY@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 15:37:33 EDT Subject: WATER PUMP The water pump on my 65 +4 is making complaining noises and the spindle wobbles a bit so my conclusion is that I need a new one. The first place I looked was the Moss catalogue where the going price is $96. Not bad. I then looked in my Morgan Spares catalogue ( nice publication with great diagrams) and saw they were asking $140. They pictures didn't look exactly the same. The next place I went to was the Morgan List Archive (what a resource!) and found 43 related articles. It would appear that Morgans were fitted with water pumps that were modified in some way from the original TR design and that a TR replacement apparently would not do the job. Reported differences include pulley size and type, bearings size, impeller dimensions etc. My (old) pump does not appear original, not having the grease fitting found on original equipment but would seem to be an aftermarket version, possibly a TR. The pulley is held on by a nut on the end of the shaft and the fan is bolted to the front of the pulley. However the fan belt is well aligned with the dynamo and crankshaft so I don't appear to have any of the problems I've heard about shafts being different lengths. Before I spend good money on buying the wrong part, does anyone have any further knowledge or experience the can shed on this issue? Thanks John Rogers 65 +4 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 25 15:01:47 1999 From: "L.D. McLaughlin, Jr." To: Morgan Mailing List Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 15:22:11 -0500 Subject: Re: Universal truths found under a Morgan > Just finished a midnight shop session under the 4/4, installing bumpers, new > oil pan, removing oil cooler, etc. There's bound to be a lesson in human > behavior to be learned from this car. Summary - (condition of car when I got > it....) > > Wiring - Absolute freaking bodge job. Every wire on the car has been > spliced, twisted together, shorted against the frame. Wires are connected > together in mid-air with 1/4-20 bolts. Seven miles of drooping oily black > tape. I've pulled at least 100 feet of wire out of the car that goes nowhere > and there's still lots left. Grounds are all lousy, connectors "crimped" > with regular pliers, no color codes; at one point a 15 foot piece was used to > connect two points 6 inches apart and the rest just jammed under the dash in > a big wad. > > Why, oh why, would someone spend somewhere between $5- and $10,000 on all > that nice equipment, Accusumps, Watts links, 6-1/2 welded wheels, fuel cells, > built engine, etc. and then leave a wiring job that won't let the car go one > lap without something falling off? It's like Ben Grimm built 90% of the car > and then turned into The Thing to finish the wiring and just slammed it > together with his mitts. Is it a comment on the human condition? > Lannis - Could you or anyone out there tell me why a delightful car gets ruined over a period of years? Everyone knows or has personal experience with a used car that is just a complete screwup... Why does anyone mess up a completely simple thing on a car? Wouldn't it be a lot more logical to just replace a connection or part than to go to all the trouble to put some horror story into the car that's illogical? Just venting... and this from someone whose first car was a used Edsel! Tony McLaughlin -- http://www.zebra.net/~ldmcjr ldmcjr@zebra.net From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 25 16:22:48 1999 From: LSelz@aol.com To: ldmcjr@zebra.net, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 18:18:33 EDT Subject: Re: Universal truths found under a Morgan In a message dated 4/25/99 17:06:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ldmcjr@zebra.net writes: << Everyone knows or has personal experience with a used car that is just a complete screwup... Why does anyone mess up a completely simple thing on a car? Wouldn't it be a lot more logical to just replace a connection or part than to go to all the trouble to put some horror story into the car that's illogical? >> Maybe some of you mature (experienced, classic, vintage) Morgan owners can say - Were Morgans ever considered cheap beaters at some point like, say, MGT-models or Jag XK-120s were in the '60s? I know that unnumbered '57 Chevies were smashed up in figure-8 and demolition derby races, and at some point most British sport cars were traded back and forth as half-running wrecks for $100 or so, and were treated the same way as, say, a '77 Dodge Aspen with a cracked block and ratty interior would be today. Did that ever happen to Morgans, or must we blame truly inexplicable and Philistine LBC enthusiasts for the crime scenes that we view under our bonnets and behind our dashes today? Lannis From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 25 16:57:50 1999 From: "William G. Lamb, III" To: CHarris990@aol.com Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 18:57:49 -0400 Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. At 11:02 AM 4/25/99 -0400, CHarris990@aol.com wrote: >-->> [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] -- >2. Interesting Morgan Fact: No one on the Morgan Board of Directors speaks > German ! But there are a number of Americans and Brits at BMW who speak a little English. There is a persistent rumour that MMC is investigating some kind of BMW/Rover power plant(s). >3. Morgans are the least rare British Sports car:, If you can't find a used >one for sale, ring up your local dealer and they will deliver >you a new one in 6 month I'm still scratching my head over this one. Even in the U.S. a new one built-to-order would take a lot longer, and elsewhere perhaps 5 - 6 years. >8. During the 60's MG, Triumph and AH each produced more cars in a week >than Morgan did in a year > In 1998 Morgan produced 500 more cars than all three of them combined. If I have my facts straight, I believe around 13,000 MGF's are being built each year, the limiting factor being Mayflower who cannot build more bodies than this number. >Tell me what you think. With the rest of your assertions I have no qualms. >Bob Nogueira << William G. Lamb, III Land Rover Specialist NAS Plus 8 4.0 Litre # 1 (R-11953) From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Sun Apr 25 17:33:33 1999 From: ARoman4047@aol.com To: LSelz@aol.com, ldmcjr@zebra.net, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 19:30:00 EDT Subject: Re: Universal truths found under a Morgan Sirs - Don't know about Morgans, but back in the early 70's, I was a freshman in college and owned five MGA's by the end of the year. Not that I was a collector or anything remotely connected...the B's were out and plentiful, making the A's cheap (once even free), enough to make sense to buy a complete car for a few parts to keep the runner on the road. Peter Egan and I had similar experiences- he had a TR 3, though - trying to maintain a sports car on a bicycle budget was his phrase, if I remember correctly. Frank Stucker (in Staten Island), had a foreign car junkyard that was filled with cars that today would probably fetch hundreds of thousands even in the con- dition they were in then. Quite a few of his wrecks were driven to the gates and handed over just to get rid of them. Most of the local yards around me (Northern NJ), wouldn't even take foreign cars... In a similar vein, my first VW bus was given to me, full of other VW parts, both new and used...Have you priced a "split window" bus today? Here's a frightening thought...When this plethora of mega-tonnage SUV's gets old enough to be really cheap used cars, who's gonna buy them? Hope its some- one with enough bucks left to at least keep the brakes working... Tony in NJ From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 03:59:40 1999 From: "Ross Jones" To: "Morgan List" Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 05:56:26 -0400 Subject: 1987 Morgan 4/4 After twenty years, I finally bought the car of my dreams. On March 19, 1999 I purchased a 1987 Morgan 4/4, mileage 5,910. The car is powered by LP gas with IMPCO conversion. It has steel wire wheels painted dull silver (the previous owner told me they were aluminum, and I think he actually believed this). Color is Rosso Red. My name is Ross Jones and I am located in Landisville, Pa., just outside of Lancaster. I purchased the car from Steve Fureman in York, Pa. Mr. Fureman purchased the car around August 19, 1998. At that time, the title says the mileage was 5,720. When I purchased the car on March 19, the mileage was 5,910. Steve kept the car in a heated warehouse and only drove it 190 miles. I am the third owner of this car. Mr. Fureman stated he purchased the car from Cantab Motors, and that the car originally came from Florida. However, Cantab has no record of the car. I was hoping someone on the Morgan list could help me tracking down some history on the car. The Serial Number on the car is: 1S9AF02C5HS200390. Inside the engine compartment are the following numbers: SA90 4/4000MM004008. Chassis No. C7390 The engine is the Ford Escort model. The entire engine compartment is spotless. I did find two nuts missing from the bottom of the radiator... they must have fallen off, but the bolts where still seated in the holes. At first I was skeptical of the mileage, but the car appears to be brand new. The only signs of age are on the tan leather interior and fuzz-balls on the carpet. I used a "sweater razor" to clean them off, but they came back after two days. The carpets must be real wool. The tools were still wrapped in paper in the toolbox, and I must have been the first to tear them open. I was lucky enough to get one of the last copies of Fred Sisson's excellent Bedside Reader. But with the car being in such great shape, the only chapter I need right now is the maintenance one. I think I made a terrific buy... paid $26,000 for the car. Does anyone have opinions on converting back to regular gas from propane? A mechanic friend of mine said I should keep the propane, he has seen engines last 300,000 miles running it. There seems to be no loss of power, I had the car up to 105 mph and could have gone more. In the 70's I had an MGA, a TR3, and a Daimler SP-250. Only the Daimler was quicker than this Morgan (it was the fastest car I ever drove). I also have a 1993 Dodge Stealth (non-turbo). When I drive the Stealth now, I feel like I am driving a Cadillac, and keep getting the reverse and turn signals messed up. Waiting for some nicer weather to really drive the car! From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 05:25:58 1999 From: "Blair, John" To: "'Jeff Webster'" , Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 07:23:59 -0400 Subject: RE: Rear Wheel Hub Removal Jeff, I didn't see any responses so here's my thoughts. You don't need to pull the backing plate unless you want to remove the axle! To pull the hub from the axle, do just what you say. However, it isn't that easy! I you truly have a hub puller and not just a standard 2 or 3 jaw gear puller, once You have taken a strain on the hub, you will need about a 5# mall. Then hit the End of the puller. The shock helps break the hub loose. Then try to retighten the Puller, and repeat the hammer hit. This may take several attempts. The other Possibility is if you have a GOOD impact wrench and an impact socket large Enough to fit over the end of the puller, try using that. I've had very good success Doing that on numerious rear ends. John John T. Blair jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake Chesapeake, Va (757) 523-8133 -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Webster [SMTP:carfindr@tiac.net] Sent: Sunday, April 25, 1999 1:27 PM To: Morgans@autox.team.net Subject: Rear Wheel Hub Removal HELP! What am I missing? I have removed the rear brake drum of my '58 Plus 4, removed the split pin, removed the castle nut, removed the large washer, placed a large hub puller on the hub but it will not budge!!! Do I have to remove the four nuts and bolts on the backing plate? Or any thing else - why is this hub not coming off? Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 07:12:05 1999 From: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" To: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 09:09:19 -0400 Subject: Re: moss box Given how expensive these transmission bits are, I agree with Chuck that the theatrics probably aren't worth it. I can tell you that my "new" clutch and gearbox performed flawlessly at Poconos Raceway this past weekend. On Sunday I had a five lap dice with a 64-year old Aston Martin that left me singing in my helmet after the checkered flag while cooling off on the back straight. Sublime experience. The other Morgans there included Bill Ruhl and Jake Jacobson: they're faster than I am, but I doubt they had more fun than I did. Weather was great, but nippy (25 degrees early Sat.), which meant a bit less power and a couple of extra flats on the SUs to add a bit of richness. Hope our friends at Oceana, where Hank Giffen and his very fancy '59 Plus 4 were holding forth, had as good a time. Chip Brown Vandergraaf, Chuck wrote: > Gary, > > I agree; changing gears without the clutch provides great satisfaction. To > me, there used to be (past tense because the +4 has been "laid up" longer > than I like to think) this fear that there would be a grinding sound and the > relief that the shift lever moved like a knife though warm butter. However, > I was never able to impress my passenger because they could not see my left > leg not moving during the shifting (it's rather dark down there underneath > the dash). > > Chuck Vandergraaf > '52 +4 > Pinawa, MB > > > ---------- > > From: Gary[SMTP:garc@iinet.net.au] > > Reply To: Gary > > Sent: Friday, April 23, 1999 5:27 AM > > To: Morgan Mail List > > Subject: RE: moss box > > > > Yep, sounds like a Moss box to me! I always double clutch up (and down) > > into second - you get better with practice. The real cute effect is to > > change gear without the clutch - just get the revs right and hold it with > > light pressure and it just slips in. Impresses the passenger no end! > > > > The other good thing about the Moss box is that, when you let someone else > > try to drive it they can never change like you can - thus proving that you > > are a superior being! > > > > Cheers > > Gary Arcus > > Western Australia > > 1954 +4 > > > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 07:51:28 1999 From: "Blair, John" To: "'morgans@autox.team.net'" Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 09:50:08 -0400 Subject: Racing weekend - was Moss Box Ernest(Chip) Brown wrote: Weather was great, but nippy (25 degrees early Sat.), which meant a bit less power and a couple of extra flats on the SUs to add a bit of richness. Hope our friends at Oceana, where Hank Giffen and his very fancy '59 Plus 4 were holding forth, had as good a time. I saw Hank early in the day Sat. and he seemed to be having fun. There were 4 Morgans at Oceana. I can't speak for the drivers, but for this specatator and his 15 yr. Old son, we had a ball!!!! It was quite a weekend!!! John John T. Blair jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake Chesapeake, Va (757) 523-8133 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 07:58:06 1999 From: jpavone@vanstar.com To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 06:56:58 -0700 Subject: Rear Springs I seem to have a problem with the rear springs on my LHD 59 4/4. The right side of the chassis sits about 3/16" higher than the left in the rear. Firmly pushing down on the left rear of the car will yield about 1 inch of give and pushing on the right almost none. Disconnecting both rear shocks makes no difference. Both the chassis and rear springs were replaced recently and have about 1000 miles on them. Both springs have been well lubed and the rear axle is square with the frame. Riding around with my 100 lb Yellow Lab in the passenger seat has not softend the right spring at all. It almost seems like the left spring has 5 leafs and the right has 6 (they both have 5) . Any suggestions, other than getting a bigger dog, would be appreciated. Regards, John 59 4/4 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 08:10:05 1999 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Rick Feibusch) To: morris@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 07:08:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: California British Meets DEAR WEST COAST LISTERS, Here are the dates and some info about two of the biggest British field meets in California. The dates have just been set and we are getting out the word. Thanks - Rick T h e 1999 P a l o A l t o B r i t i s h C a r M e e t * SATURDAY & SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 11th & 12th * * Saturday, Sept. 12th - Join us for a fun-filled morning Brunch Cruise to The Sea coordinated by British Car Magazine. Cars will be staged from the El Camino Park parking lot between 9:00AM & 10:30AM. This free tour offers an optional brunch at a restaurant on the coast at its conclusion. There will be no preregistration but please let the British Car Magazine folks know if you are going to attend. Call: 650-949-9680 or email: BritCarMag@aol.com * Sunday, Sept. 13th - Be part of the biggest one-day British car show in America. Over 700 cars are expected to fill El Camino Park. Daily drivers, hot rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. Great food, live music and more fun than you'll be able to stand! All participants will receive a commemorative gift. Field entry starts at 9:00AM. There is no preregistration. Fee is $20 per car at the gate. Spectators attend free. El Camino Park is on the El Camino Real, one block north of University Ave. opposite the main entrance to the Stanford Shopping Center. From 101, take the University Ave. exit west. Call: 310-392-6605 or email: rfeibusch@loop.com for information. ****************************************************** THE LOS ANGELES BRITISH CAR MEET * Woodley Park * Sunday, October 10th 1998 * Be part of one of the biggest, one-day, British lawn events in America. Over 400 classic, quirky and thoroughly lovable British cars are expected to fill Woodley Park in Van Nuys, for the Fifteenth Annual Los Angeles British Car Meet. Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, hot rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. Great food, music, vendors and more fun than you'll be able to stand! People's Choice awards will be given in five classes. All participants will receive a commemorative gift. Cars will be placed on the field starting at 9:00AM. The registration fee is $20 per car, at the gate. There is no preregistration. Spectators park and attend free. Woodley Park is located in Van Nuys, just north of the Ventura Freeway (101), on Woodley, between Burbank Blvd. and Victory Blvd. From the San Diego Freeway (405), take the Burbank Blvd. exit west and drive one block, turn right on Woodley Ave. and drive north, and enter the park to the right. Information: 310-392-6605 or email: rfeibusch@loop.com* El Camino Park is on the El Camino Real, one block north of University Ave. opposite the main entrance to the Stanford Shopping Center. From 101, take the University Ave. exit west. The 1998 Palo Alto British Car Meet * Our 20th Anniversary * SATURDAY & SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 12th & 13th * Saturday, Sept. 12th - Join us for a fun-filled morning Brunch Cruise to The Sea coordinated by British Car Magazine. Cars will be staged from the El Camino Park parking lot between 9:00AM & 10:30AM. This free tour offers an optional brunch at a restaurant on the coast at its conclusion. There will be no preregistration but please let the British Car Magazine folks know if you are going to attend. Call: 650-949-9680 or email: BritCarMag@aol.com * Sunday, Sept. 13th - Be part of the biggest one-day British car show in America. Over 700 cars are expected to fill El Camino Park. Daily drivers, hot rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. Great food, live music and more fun than you'll be able to stand! All participants will receive a commemorative gift. Field entry starts at 9:00AM. There is no preregistration. Fee is $20 per car at the gate. Spectators attend free. Call: 310-392-6605 or email: rfeibusch@loop.com for information. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 08:44:19 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: tjsouz@epix.net, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 07:42:22 -0700 Subject: RE: Correction on Re: Specs. please? Tony, Not enough time or space for all of that. Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: tjsouz@epix.net [SMTP:tjsouz@epix.net] > Sent: Saturday, April 24, 1999 10:09 AM > To: morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: Correction on Re: Specs. please? > > Jack McNaughton wrote: > > > > Don't believe everything you read in a book! > > Amen, John! > > I think Ken Hill probably wrote that the new 4/4 was "re-engined". The > earlier 4-4, as it was then called, had the Coventry Climax and the > Standard Special engines. The Series II 4/4 was re-engined with a Ford > powerplant. (Many will chuckle over the idea of "power" in that term.) > > We could start a whole new thread of mistakes in Morgan publications. > It could be informative as well as fun. Looking through "Morgan the > Last Survivor" by Chris Harvey I found several pictures that were > mislabeled, especially in the sections on early cars. For instance the > picture at the bottom right of page 89 is a of a +4 not a Series I. > Likewise the picture at the top right of page 91 is of the same +4, not > a Series I 4-4. Did any +4's have seats like those on the bottom of > page 107? These errors are particularly lamentable in a section titled > "Contemporary Road Testers' Reports. > > So, what say we start a thread labelled ERRATA. > > Regards to all, > Tony Souza From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 08:58:21 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: jblair@exis.net, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 07:56:44 -0700 Subject: RE: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. John, Do not grind on the hood (bonnet)! Take an "old" brass endcap and use it as stock to cut a shim to be slipped into the hinge first (front or rear, as required). very precise fore and aft alignment can be had this way. I think that the question originally asked was side to side skew however. As Gerg so aptly said, this is a much more complex problem. Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: John T. Blair [SMTP:jblair@exis.net] > Sent: Saturday, April 24, 1999 6:01 PM > To: morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: Alignment of the bonnet halfs. > > > > 3. I'm about to try a similar thing, but I'm going to try and play with > the > brass end plates for the hinges. My car is completely finished, but > the > hood moves for and aft on the hinge. It can be positioned so it is > fitting > nicely over the eng. bay. But it doesn't stay there. It moves. Since > new end caps are only about $12 ea, I've ordered 2 new ones. I'm going > to > try and put new end caps on the hing and hope that they are longer then > my > original ones. Then grind each side of the end plate to adjust the > position of the hinge. If necessary, I will braze and extension on the > > end plates. > > John > > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net > Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V > 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire > > Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan > Bricklin: webus80.wang.com/BI (new adderss) > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 09:18:17 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: HOOGLY@aol.com, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:16:21 -0700 Subject: RE: WATER PUMP The ONLY difference between the Triumph water pump and that used on the Plus 4 is the pulley which is exactly as you describe. Triumph had the fan on the crankshaft end. The older water pumps had a tapered shaft with a keyway for the pulley. This is what you require. You just replace the Triumph pulley with your old one. Some of the newer replacement pumps had the pulley "pinned" on. This makes replacement of the pulley more difficult. Check with Moss. If they can supply the tapered end shaft, go for it. Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: HOOGLY@aol.com [SMTP:HOOGLY@aol.com] > Sent: Sunday, April 25, 1999 12:38 PM > To: morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: WATER PUMP > > The water pump on my 65 +4 is making complaining noises and the spindle > wobbles a bit so my conclusion is that I need a new one. The first place > I > looked was the Moss catalogue where the going price is $96. Not bad. I > then > looked in my Morgan Spares catalogue ( nice publication with great > diagrams) > and saw they were asking $140. They pictures didn't look exactly the > same. > The next place I went to was the Morgan List Archive (what a resource!) > and > found 43 related articles. It would appear that Morgans were fitted with > water pumps that were modified in some way from the original TR design and > > that a TR replacement apparently would not do the job. Reported > differences > include pulley size and type, bearings size, impeller dimensions etc. My > (old) pump does not appear original, not having the grease fitting found > on > original equipment but would seem to be an aftermarket version, possibly a > > TR. The pulley is held on by a nut on the end of the shaft and the fan is > bolted to the front of the pulley. However the fan belt is well aligned > with > the dynamo and crankshaft so I don't appear to have any of the problems > I've > heard about shafts being different lengths. Before I spend good money on > buying the wrong part, does anyone have any further knowledge or > experience > the can shed on this issue? > Thanks > John Rogers > 65 +4 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 09:20:03 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: ldmcjr@zebra.net, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:18:04 -0700 Subject: RE: Universal truths found under a Morgan Necessity may be the mother of invention but poverty is the father. Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: L.D. McLaughlin, Jr. [SMTP:ldmcjr@zebra.net] > Sent: Sunday, April 25, 1999 1:22 PM > To: Morgan Mailing List > Subject: Re: Universal truths found under a Morgan > > > Just finished a midnight shop session under the 4/4, installing bumpers, > new > > oil pan, removing oil cooler, etc. There's bound to be a lesson in > human > > behavior to be learned from this car. Summary - (condition of car when > I got > > it....) > > > > Wiring - Absolute freaking bodge job. Every wire on the car has been > > spliced, twisted together, shorted against the frame. Wires are > connected > > together in mid-air with 1/4-20 bolts. Seven miles of drooping oily > black > > tape. I've pulled at least 100 feet of wire out of the car that goes > nowhere > > and there's still lots left. Grounds are all lousy, connectors > "crimped" > > with regular pliers, no color codes; at one point a 15 foot piece was > used to > > connect two points 6 inches apart and the rest just jammed under the > dash in > > a big wad. > > > > Why, oh why, would someone spend somewhere between $5- and $10,000 on > all > > that nice equipment, Accusumps, Watts links, 6-1/2 welded wheels, fuel > cells, > > built engine, etc. and then leave a wiring job that won't let the car go > one > > lap without something falling off? It's like Ben Grimm built 90% of the > car > > and then turned into The Thing to finish the wiring and just slammed it > > together with his mitts. Is it a comment on the human condition? > > > > Lannis - > > Could you or anyone out there tell me why a delightful car gets ruined > over > a period of years? Everyone knows or has personal experience with a used > car > that is just a complete screwup... Why does anyone mess up a completely > simple thing on a car? Wouldn't it be a lot more logical to just replace a > connection or part than to go to all the trouble to put some horror story > into the car that's illogical? > > Just venting... and this from someone whose first car was a used Edsel! > > Tony McLaughlin > -- > http://www.zebra.net/~ldmcjr > > ldmcjr@zebra.net From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 09:53:11 1999 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Rick Feibusch) To: Morris@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 08:53:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: OOPS! Lucas Aircraft Electronics? Sunday April 25, 7:00 pm Eastern Time Enjoy the flight -- we're not crashing after all LONDON, April 25 (Reuters) - Nearly 400 British Airways (quote from Yahoo! UK & Ireland: Passengers flying from San Francisco to London got the fright of their lives when a recorded message mistakenly warned they were about to crash into the sea. The airline apologised for the incident on Sunday, saying cabin crew on the Boeing 747 quickly told the passengers that the crash landing message was incorrect. But two elderly passengers suffered anxiety attacks and had to be helped by a doctor who was on board the flight at the weekend. The recording told the 391 passengers to prepare for the crash landing about three hours into the flight. The plane went on to land safely at London's Heathrow airport on Saturday. ``We realise how distressing the incident was for our passengers, and we do apologise to them,'' a British Airways spokeswoman said. ``Clearly, this should not have happened and we're treating the matter very seriously. An investigation is under way. We do not know (the cause) yet, but we know that it was not a technical fault with the system,'' she said. The airline said it was too early to say whether passengers would receive any compensation. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 10:29:33 1999 From: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com To: rfeibusch@loop.com (Rick Feibusch) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 17:26:51 +0100 Subject: Re: OOPS! Lucas Aircraft Electronics? A later BBC report attributes it to a "prank" by one of the passengers. http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/uk/newsid_328000/328379.stm Dave Vodden From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 11:01:05 1999 From: "wms" To: "Armando Picciotto" , Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 18:44:22 -0500 Subject: Re: moss box Morganeers This has been a question I have had with my car .I also have some noise . I however have the added concern with the Over drive that I have installed in my Morgan . These parts came from a Jag , Moss box .All the books I have read say us engine oil . Is there a better lubricant that I can use or am I compelled to follow the book in this case? Your thoughts appreciated . Glenn Nigh # 5112 wms@vaxxine.com ---------- > From: Armando Picciotto > To: 'William Zehring' > Cc: 'morgans@autox.team.net' > Subject: RE: moss box > Date: April 22, 1999 2:54 PM > > Will, > When I first got my +4 some years back, I had the same problem shifting into > second from first. A change to Red Line MTL solved it. The Moss box (at > least mine) is very particular about the oil you use. You will, of course, > still have to double clutch from third to second. I don't get the whine in > first. > > Armando Picciotto > '63 +4 > > -----Original Message----- > From: William Zehring [mailto:zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU] > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 12:17 PM > To: morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: moss box > > > Dear all: > > I had the opportunity to go for a spin in a moss box-equipped car yesterday > (no, not a +4, in this case it was a '64 e-type) and have a few questions... > > --is first gear a straight cut? In this car there was a pronounced whine. > --is the second gear synchro pretty weak? This car (~85k miles) had > essentially NO second gear synchro. Pals suggest I shouldn't be surprised > at that, but zowie, it sure does crimp your style if you have to nurse it > into second every time. > --how hard is changing a synchro ring (ignoring for a minute how hard it is > to just get to the box in the e-type)? I have great respect for folks > brave enough to work on trannys. > > Okay, so there isn't much direct Morgan content in this; at least its > car-related, and not how heavy an ounce of water is. ;-) > > cheers, > Will Zehring From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 12:37:31 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: wms@vaxxine.com, apicciotto@nvusd.k12.ca.us, zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 11:35:06 -0700 Subject: RE: moss box Best to use engine oil! Though there is some debate as to whether engine oil is best for the Moss Box (I use it), the Laycock-de-Normanville overdrive DEMANDS it and the overdrive unit shares its oil supply with the gearbox. One of the biggest problems with the overdrive units on the 250 GTE Ferrari is that the gearbox likes heavy gear oil. The overdrive soon gums up and will not shift right until it is dissassembled and cleaned. Our 1959 DHC, which we bought new, was always noisey in first gear (as is every other Plus 4 I have driven) and second gear synchro is almost non-existant. These facts were mentioned in contemporary road tests. Good luck. Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: wms [SMTP:wms@vaxxine.com] > Sent: Saturday, March 27, 1999 3:44 PM > To: Armando Picciotto; 'William Zehring' > Cc: 'morgans@autox.team.net' > Subject: Re: moss box > > Morganeers > This has been a question I have had with my car .I also have some > noise . I however have the added concern with the Over drive that I have > installed in my Morgan . These parts came from a Jag , Moss box .All the > books I have read say us engine oil . Is there a better lubricant that I > can use or am I compelled to follow the book in this case? Your thoughts > appreciated . > > > > Glenn Nigh # 5112 wms@vaxxine.com > > ---------- > > From: Armando Picciotto > > To: 'William Zehring' > > Cc: 'morgans@autox.team.net' > > Subject: RE: moss box > > Date: April 22, 1999 2:54 PM > > > > Will, > > When I first got my +4 some years back, I had the same problem shifting > into > > second from first. A change to Red Line MTL solved it. The Moss box > (at > > least mine) is very particular about the oil you use. You will, of > course, > > still have to double clutch from third to second. I don't get the whine > in > > first. > > > > Armando Picciotto > > '63 +4 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: William Zehring [mailto:zehrinwa@UMDNJ.EDU] > > Sent: Thursday, April 22, 1999 12:17 PM > > To: morgans@autox.team.net > > Subject: moss box > > > > > > Dear all: > > > > I had the opportunity to go for a spin in a moss box-equipped car > yesterday > > (no, not a +4, in this case it was a '64 e-type) and have a few > questions... > > > > --is first gear a straight cut? In this car there was a pronounced > whine. > > --is the second gear synchro pretty weak? This car (~85k miles) had > > essentially NO second gear synchro. Pals suggest I shouldn't be > surprised > > at that, but zowie, it sure does crimp your style if you have to nurse > it > > into second every time. > > --how hard is changing a synchro ring (ignoring for a minute how hard it > is > > to just get to the box in the e-type)? I have great respect for folks > > brave enough to work on trannys. > > > > Okay, so there isn't much direct Morgan content in this; at least its > > car-related, and not how heavy an ounce of water is. ;-) > > > > cheers, > > Will Zehring From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 21:41:44 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:16:56 -0400 Subject: Re: Torque wrench settings Hi Gang, Could someone let me know what is the correct torque setting for the castle nut on the rear axle - the one that holds the hub on. My car is a '58 +4 with disc wheels. Thank you Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 22:19:39 1999 From: TrmpetDave@aol.com To: Phil.Roettjer@quantum.com, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:25:28 EDT Subject: Re: RE: moss box In a message dated 4/22/99 2:04:57 PM, Phil.Roettjer@quantum.com writes: <> I have 2 questions: 1. Is the later all-synchro Moss box obtainable, and if so, where? 2. Will it fit into a '71 +8? Dave Collins, San Diego. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Mon Apr 26 23:13:52 1999 From: "L.D. McLaughlin, Jr." To: Morgan Mailing List Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:18:41 -0500 Subject: Re: Rear Wheel Hub Removal > Jeff, > > I didn't see any responses so here's my thoughts. The > other > Possibility is if you have a GOOD impact and an impact socket large > Enough to fit over the end of the puller, try using that. I've had very > good success > Doing that on numerious rear ends. > > John > > John T. Blair > jblair@scn.spawar.navy.mil > SPAWARSYSCEN Chesapeake > Chesapeake, Va (757) 523-8133 John, isn't that rather risque? :>) Tony From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 27 00:08:45 1999 From: TrmpetDave@aol.com To: apicciotto@nvusd.k12.ca.us, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:25:26 EDT Subject: Re: RE: moss box In a message dated 4/22/99 1:27:01 PM, apicciotto@nvusd.k12.ca.us writes: <> In my Moss-box-equiped '71 +8, I have always had a nice classic whine in first, and not much (no) synchro in 2nd, and more recently a tendency to slip out of reverse (weak springs?) which I remedy with a firm push on the gear lever whilst reversing. I have lately been using synthetic Castrol 90W gear oil, which doesn't produce any noticeable improvement over the generic gear oil I used formerly. Dave Collins, San Diego. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 27 00:22:38 1999 From: TrmpetDave@aol.com To: vern_dj@email.msn.com, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 02:21:02 EDT Subject: Re: Specs. please? In a message dated 4/23/99 6:37:15 PM, vern_dj@email.msn.com writes: <> The US fluid ounce is larger than Imperial, making the ratio of US to Imperial gallons 5 to 6, not 4 to 5, as you might think just going by the number of ounces. Dave Collins, San Diego From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 27 02:37:33 1999 From: rfeibusch@loop.com (Rick Feibusch) To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 01:36:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: California British Meets DEAR WEST COAST LISTERS, OOPS - One eagle eyed reader emailed in on a mistake it the last posting about the Palo Alto Meet. Here is a corrected version - my Mac only has a spell check not a hasty send without proof reading check - sorry - Rick T h e 1999 P a l o A l t o B r i t i s h C a r M e e t * SATURDAY & SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 11th & 12th * * Saturday, Sept. 11th - Join us for a fun-filled morning Brunch Cruise to The Sea coordinated by British Car Magazine. Cars will be staged from the El Camino Park parking lot between 9:00AM & 10:30AM. This free tour offers an optional brunch at a restaurant on the coast at its conclusion. There will be no preregistration but please let the British Car Magazine folks know if you are going to attend. Call: 650-949-9680 or email: BritCarMag@aol.com * Sunday, Sept. 12th - Be part of the biggest one-day British car show in America. Over 700 cars are expected to fill El Camino Park. Daily drivers, hot rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. Great food, live music and more fun than you'll be able to stand! All participants will receive a commemorative gift. Field entry starts at 9:00AM. There is no preregistration. Fee is $20 per car at the gate. Spectators attend free. El Camino Park is on the El Camino Real, one block north of University Ave. opposite the main entrance to the Stanford Shopping Center. From 101, take the University Ave. exit west. Call: 310-392-6605 or email: rfeibusch@loop.com for information. ****************************************************** El Camino Park is on the El Camino Real, one block north of University Ave. opposite the main entrance to the Stanford Shopping Center. From 101, take the University Ave. exit west. The 1998 Palo Alto British Car Meet * Our 20th Anniversary * SATURDAY & SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 12th & 13th * Saturday, Sept. 12th - Join us for a fun-filled morning Brunch Cruise to The Sea coordinated by British Car Magazine. Cars will be staged from the El Camino Park parking lot between 9:00AM & 10:30AM. This free tour offers an optional brunch at a restaurant on the coast at its conclusion. There will be no preregistration but please let the British Car Magazine folks know if you are going to attend. Call: 650-949-9680 or email: BritCarMag@aol.com * Sunday, Sept. 13th - Be part of the biggest one-day British car show in America. Over 700 cars are expected to fill El Camino Park. Daily drivers, hot rods & works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. Great food, live music and more fun than you'll be able to stand! All participants will receive a commemorative gift. Field entry starts at 9:00AM. There is no preregistration. Fee is $20 per car at the gate. Spectators attend free. Call: 310-392-6605 or email: rfeibusch@loop.com for information. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 27 07:56:08 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 09:53:58 -0400 Subject: RE: Specs. please? OK, guys (and gals) I've watched the exchange on this topic with a mixture of dismay (hoodwinking unsuspecting US visitors to Canada) and fascination (how can there be so much confusion). Time to haul out my "Chem Rubber Handbook," that compendium that every chemistry student in college refers to when the going gets tough. I quote, from the 42nd edition of the Handbook of Chemistry and Physics (those of you who are familiar with this handbook will realize that this edition dates me): Ounce (Fluid) (U.S.): 1/128 or 0.0078125 gallon (U.S.) 0.03125 quart (liquid, U.S) 1/16 or 0.0625 pint (liquid) 1/4 or 0.25 gill (U.S.) 1.80469 cubic inches 8 drams (fluid) 480 minims 0.0295729 liter 0.295729 deciliter 29.5729 milliliter 29.5737 cubic centimeters Ounce (Fluid) (British): 0.006240 gallon (British) 8 drachms (fluid, British) 480 minims 28.4130 cubic centimeters I should add the conversion units for the avoirdupois ounce and the apothecary, or troy, ounce, but suffice it to state that the avoirdupois ounce are weights, not volumetric units. To summarize, the US ounce is 29.5737 cubic cm; the British (Imperial) is 28.4130 cubic cm. The CRC Handbook gives the following for gallons: US gallon: 3.7853 liter British Imperial or Canadian gallon: 4.54596 liters Clearly, the way to go is to change over to SI units but some of us may think that this is too sterile and more for Miata owners. Now what was the question again? The volume of somebody's rear end? ;-) Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 Pinawa, MB > ---------- > From: TrmpetDave@aol.com[SMTP:TrmpetDave@aol.com] > Reply To: TrmpetDave@aol.com > Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 1:21 AM > To: vern_dj@email.msn.com; Morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: Re: Specs. please? > > > In a message dated 4/23/99 6:37:15 PM, vern_dj@email.msn.com writes: > > < have 128 oz, vs the 160 of the imperial gallon. Got me to thinking > though, > how did the US decide on 128 oz in a gallon? They used the same size > ounce > so..... either some s>> > > The US fluid ounce is larger than Imperial, making the ratio of US to > Imperial gallons 5 to 6, not 4 to 5, as you might think just going by the > number of ounces. Dave Collins, San Diego > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 27 10:17:07 1999 From: "Vandergraaf, Chuck" To: "'morgans@Autox.Team.Net'" Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 12:14:49 -0400 Subject: FW: Specs. please? Ben Palmer caught a typo in my data: 1 ounce (British) should be 0.006250 gallon (British), not 0.006240. Sorry about that; there are so many keys on this keyboard! ;-) Chuck Vandergraaf '52 +4 Pinawa, MB From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 27 12:00:58 1999 From: "Werner Pels" To: Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 10:50:17 -0700 Subject: 1970 Plus 8 brake cylinder I'm new to the list, so pardon if I don't get the protocol right away. Since I'm also newly-retired, I'm still in the "projects" stage that some of you may recognize. One of those is to get better acquainted with my '70 Plus 8, which I've had since 1973. I once rebuilt old (pre 70's)VW's as a hobby, but, strangely, never really developed the same parts-source familiarity and hands-on approach to the Morgan. I'd like to change that now and would appreciate some help. Among other things, I've just rebuilt the brake vacuum booster (although why a machine this light needs vacuum assistance is a puzzle to me) and now I want to refurbish the brake and clutch hydraulics otherwise. I've rebuilt cylinders and used seal kits before, but I believe I would rather just replace the brake and clutch cylinders if they're available. Which brings me to: would someone recommend a mail-order source? Thanks. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 27 12:28:22 1999 From: "F Kuzyk" To: "Werner Pels" , Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 14:26:26 -0400 Subject: Re: 1970 Plus 8 brake cylinder Werner, You can check availability at Morgan suppliers such as: Melvyn Rutter, Cantab, Morgan Spares, etc. Links are available on the Links Page of my web site. Welcome aboard to the List! Fred Kuzyk MSCCC Webmaster Visit the Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada Web site at: http://members.xoom.com/msccc/ For info on cigars, local cigar clubs & events, etc; visit my other web site Holy Smokes http://members.xoom.com/holysmokes/ -----Original Message----- From: Werner Pels To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 2:16 PM Subject: 1970 Plus 8 brake cylinder >I'm new to the list, so pardon if I don't get the protocol right away. > >Since I'm also newly-retired, I'm still in the "projects" stage that some of >you may recognize. One of those is to get better acquainted with my '70 Plus >8, which I've had since 1973. I once rebuilt old (pre 70's)VW's as a hobby, >but, strangely, never really developed the same parts-source familiarity and >hands-on approach to the Morgan. I'd like to change that now and would >appreciate some help. > >Among other things, I've just rebuilt the brake vacuum booster (although why >a machine this light needs vacuum assistance is a puzzle to me) and now I >want to refurbish the brake and clutch hydraulics otherwise. I've rebuilt >cylinders and used seal kits before, but I believe I would rather just >replace the brake and clutch cylinders if they're available. >Which brings me to: would someone recommend a mail-order source? > >Thanks. > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 27 13:06:48 1999 From: "F Kuzyk" To: "Morgans" Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 15:05:17 -0400 Subject: Rhinemog & Morgan "Wings" For those contemplating attending the Rhinemog event in June, further below is an article of interest which appeared recently in the newspaper. If you missed Jim Nichol's original postings on the event, the info is on a link at the Events Page of my web site. To aviation buffs, names like Oshkosh, the Confederate Air Force, Rhinebeck, & the Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum - gets the pulse pounding. Personally, I like the events that combine antique cars with antique aircraft. Rick Feibush posted that the "British Wheels & Wings" event in California is cancelled. While I'm not likely to attend the Rhinemog event, I feel like I've been there from watching the Beer family video a few years back. There's another "British Wheels & Wings" event which may be of interest. The British Sportscar Club's "Wheels & Wings" event to be held May 16/99 at the Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum, Hamilton Airport, in Mount Hope, Ontaro, Canada. It runs from 10 AM to 3PM. The Museum has a large collection of warbirds, including one of the only 2 remaining Lancaster bombers in flying condition. You can see more about the CWH Museum at their web site: http://www.warplane.com/hub.html The organizers would like to see more than the 3 or 4 Mogs from last year, given the special anniversary year & all! If any out of towners are considering coming, let me know & perhaps we can hook-up. Entry is $10 per vehicle. For more info call Paul Boydell at 905-318-5810. Emailers might want to try Scott Morris, Editor of "The Tribute" at jstmorris@yahoo.com or Don Pettitt, BSC Events Coordinator at weazal@execulink.com ------------------------------------------------------------------ THE TORONTO STAR Saturday, April 10, 1999 Presenting the greatest show off Earth Barnstorming biplanes part of the flying circus run by New York aerodrome BY NAEDINE JOY HAZELL SPECIALTO THE STAR RHINEBECK, NY. - It looks like an old cornfield or a pasture. The grass is worn and rutted. But this unassuming little field in the New York hills east of the Hudson River has an im-pressive job. It's a launch pad to the past, a part of a living museum devoted to keeping alive the years of early aviation. Barnstorming biplanes toy with one another high above the field as hundreds of fasci-nated spectators stare sky-ward. "There's still something magical about these old planes ... and that's a magic we like to share here at the Rhinebeck Aerodrome," an announcer shouts over the roar of rotary engines as the planes loop and dive and dip. The aerodrome's weekend summer and autumn air shows are among the last of the flying circuses. And a circus atmosphere prevails, with cotton candy, snow cones, popcorn and picnic lunches. If you want a latte or a glass of wine, you can always go t6 downtown Rhinebeck, which is as pretty a Hudson River vil-lage as you'll find. Otherwise, at the airfield and. museum, it's like a country fair every weekend. Spectators sit on plank benches supported by cinder blocks, eat at peeling picnic tables and use portable toilets. Amenities are not the focus. The aircraft and the air show are. Even the most jaded and cyn-ical gasp with surprise and delight when a pair of barnstorm-ing biplanes roar past the crowd, just a couple of metres above the grass runway. The wind carries the smell of burnt castor oil as the pilots whoosh by, long white scarves billowing behind them from the open cockpits. It's the greatest show off Earth. For the true old-plane buff, it might be important to know that the Saturday shows focus on the early history of flight with pioneer, World War I and Lindbergh-era aircraft and Sundays feature World War I and barnstorming planes. Visitors see early aircraft from the fragile canvas and wood-strut airplanes created by the Wright Brothers to open-cockpit planes used in World War I dogfights and tri-ple-wing planes usually only seen in air museums. The museum and aerodrome are open during the week but the air shows are held only weekends. A reproduction D-7 Fokker - built from the original plans and equipped with an original engine-climbs into the sky as the announcer waxes poetic about the aerodrome's mission to keep the past alive. "There are a few private col-lectors with these and a few at museums in England, but you won't hear engines like that anywhere but here," he boasts. The Fokker was a German plane that battled with Britain's Sopwith Camels and other planes during some of World War I's most famous air battles. The Aerodrome museum maintains one of the largest collections of early planes and aviation-related equipment in the world. It is the culmination of one man's dream. Cole Palen bought six World War I airplanes from Roosevelt Field on Long Island in 1951 and began restoring them. Sev-en years later he bought an abandoned farm in Rhinebeck and that was the start of some-thing big. Soon, Palen wasn't the only, one flying vintage aircraft off the grass runway. Friends and other enthusiasts came. Then came the curious. In 1960, the formal air shows began and grew in popularity and eventually drew the atten-tion of National Geographic magazine, which published a story about the shows in its Oc-tober 1977 issue. It's been high--flying since then. “Yessiree, ladies and gentlemen, we here at Rhinebeck of-fer one of the last of the flying circuses..." Besides the grounds and the planes, the circus atmosphere is helped by old automobiles and related vehicles and actors in period dress. If the announc-er tries the old there's-an-es-caped-convict-on-the-loose gambit, just go along with it -it's kind of hokey but it's fun. If you want to experience the thrill of flying, the aerodrome offers 15-minute open-cockpit biplane rides in its 1929 New Standard D-25, before and af-ter the Saturday and Sunday shows. But sign up as soon as you arrive, because despite the $30 U.S. price tag, the rides book quickly. If you prefer a closer but less death-defying look, visit the vintage aircraft housed safely in corrugated steel hangars and barns not far from the airfield. The collection has dozens of planes including a 1931 Great Lakes Trainer, a 1902 Wright Brothers Glider, a 1913 Cau-dron G3 reproduction that was featured in the First Flights TV documentary hosted by Neil Armstrong, and an original 1936 Aeronca C3, one of the first aircraft to provide inex-pensive flying for anyone who wanted to try. When the air show is over, spectators can head into the vil-lage of Rhinebeck for a meal or a walk around the historic dis-trict. With 437 sites listed on the National Historic Register, Rhi-nebeck has one of the largest U.S. historic districts. It in-cludes the country's oldest inn, the Beekman Arms. - Hartford Courant Fred Kuzyk MSCCC Webmaster Visit the Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada Web site at: http://members.xoom.com/msccc/ For info on cigars, local cigar clubs & events, etc; visit my other web site Holy Smokes http://members.xoom.com/holysmokes/ From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 27 14:44:47 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: fkuzyk@cgocable.net, morgans@autox.team.net Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 13:42:03 -0700 Subject: RE: Rhinemog & Morgan "Wings" The latest information is that organization of this event has been taken over by MOSS Motors and is back on again in June. Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: F Kuzyk [SMTP:fkuzyk@cgocable.net] > Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 12:05 PM > To: Morgans > Cc: Jhalfdime@aol.com > Subject: Rhinemog & Morgan "Wings" > > Rick Feibush posted that the "British Wheels & Wings" event in > California is cancelled. While I'm not likely to attend the Rhinemog > event, > I feel like I've been there from watching the Beer family video a few > years > back. There's another "British Wheels & Wings" event which may be of > interest. > > The British Sportscar Club's "Wheels & Wings" > event to be held May 16/99 at the Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum, > Hamilton Airport, in Mount Hope, Ontaro, Canada. It runs from 10 AM to > 3PM. > The Museum has a large collection of warbirds, including one of the only 2 > remaining Lancaster bombers in flying condition. You can see more about > the > CWH Museum at their web site: http://www.warplane.com/hub.html > > The organizers would like to see more than the 3 or 4 Mogs from last year, > given the special anniversary year & all! If any out of towners are > considering coming, let me know & perhaps we can hook-up. > > Entry is $10 per vehicle. For more info call Paul Boydell at > 905-318-5810. > Emailers might want to try Scott Morris, Editor of "The Tribute" at > jstmorris@yahoo.com or Don Pettitt, BSC Events Coordinator at > weazal@execulink.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------ > THE TORONTO STAR Saturday, April 10, 1999 > Presenting the greatest show off Earth > Barnstorming biplanes part of the flying circus run by New York aerodrome > BY NAEDINE JOY HAZELL > SPECIALTO THE STAR > > RHINEBECK, NY. - It > looks like an old cornfield or a pasture. The grass is worn and rutted. > But this unassuming little field in the New York hills east of the Hudson > River has an im-pressive job. It's a launch pad to the past, a part of a > living museum devoted to keeping alive the years of early aviation. > Barnstorming biplanes toy with one another high above the field as > hundreds > of fasci-nated spectators stare sky-ward. > "There's still something magical about these old planes ... and that's a > magic we like to share here at the Rhinebeck Aerodrome," an announcer > shouts over the roar of rotary engines as the planes loop and dive and > dip. > The aerodrome's weekend summer and autumn air shows are among the last of > the flying circuses. And a circus atmosphere prevails, with cotton candy, > snow cones, popcorn and picnic lunches. > If you want a latte or a glass of wine, you can always go t6 downtown > Rhinebeck, which is as pretty a Hudson River vil-lage as you'll find. > Otherwise, at the airfield and. museum, it's like a country fair every > weekend. Spectators sit on plank benches supported by cinder blocks, eat > at > peeling picnic tables and use portable toilets. > Amenities are not the focus. The aircraft and the air show are. > Even the most jaded and cyn-ical gasp with surprise and delight when a > pair > of barnstorm-ing biplanes roar past the crowd, just a couple of metres > above > the grass runway. The wind carries the smell of burnt castor oil as the > pilots whoosh by, long white scarves billowing behind them from the open > cockpits. > It's the greatest show off Earth. > For the true old-plane buff, it might be important to know that the > Saturday > shows focus on the early history of flight with pioneer, World War I and > Lindbergh-era aircraft and Sundays feature World War I and barnstorming > planes. > Visitors see early aircraft from the fragile canvas and wood-strut > airplanes > created by the Wright Brothers to open-cockpit planes used in World War I > dogfights and tri-ple-wing planes usually only seen in air museums. > The museum and aerodrome are open during the week but the air shows are > held > only weekends. > > A reproduction D-7 Fokker - built from the original plans and equipped > with > an original engine-climbs into the sky as the announcer waxes poetic about > the aerodrome's mission to keep the past alive. > "There are a few private col-lectors with these and a few at museums in > England, but you won't hear engines like that anywhere but here," he > boasts. > The Fokker was a German plane that battled with Britain's Sopwith Camels > and > other planes during some of World War I's most famous air battles. The > Aerodrome museum maintains one of the largest collections of early planes > and aviation-related equipment in the world. It is the culmination of one > man's dream. > Cole Palen bought six World War I airplanes from Roosevelt Field on Long > Island in 1951 and began restoring them. Sev-en years later he bought an > abandoned farm in Rhinebeck and that was the start of some-thing big. > Soon, > Palen wasn't the only, one flying vintage aircraft off the grass runway. > Friends and other enthusiasts came. Then came the curious. > In 1960, the formal air shows began and grew in popularity and eventually > drew the atten-tion of National Geographic magazine, which published a > story > about the shows in its Oc-tober 1977 issue. It's been high--flying since > then. > "Yessiree, ladies and gentlemen, we here at Rhinebeck of-fer one of the > last > of the flying circuses..." > Besides the grounds and the planes, the circus atmosphere is helped by old > automobiles and related vehicles and actors in period dress. If the > announc-er tries the old there's-an-es-caped-convict-on-the-loose gambit, > just go along with it -it's kind of hokey but it's fun. > If you want to experience the thrill of flying, the aerodrome offers > 15-minute open-cockpit biplane rides in its 1929 New Standard D-25, before > and af-ter the Saturday and Sunday shows. But sign up as soon as you > arrive, > because despite the $30 U.S. price tag, the rides book quickly. > If you prefer a closer but less death-defying look, visit the vintage > aircraft housed safely in corrugated steel hangars and barns not far from > the airfield. > The collection has dozens of planes including a 1931 Great Lakes Trainer, > a > 1902 Wright Brothers Glider, a 1913 Cau-dron G3 reproduction that was > featured in the First Flights TV documentary hosted by Neil Armstrong, and > an original 1936 Aeronca C3, one of the first aircraft to provide > inex-pensive flying for anyone who wanted to try. > When the air show is over, spectators can head into the vil-lage of > Rhinebeck for a meal or a walk around the historic dis-trict. > With 437 sites listed on the National Historic Register, Rhi-nebeck has > one > of the largest U.S. historic districts. It in-cludes the country's oldest > inn, the Beekman Arms. > > - Hartford Courant > > > > Fred Kuzyk > MSCCC Webmaster > Visit the Morgan Sports Car Club of Canada Web site at: > http://members.xoom.com/msccc/ > > For info on cigars, local cigar clubs & events, etc; visit my other web > site > Holy Smokes > http://members.xoom.com/holysmokes/ > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Tue Apr 27 15:38:48 1999 From: "Ernest(Chip) Brown" To: Greg Solow Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:37:11 -0400 Subject: Re: Correction on Re: Specs. please? Yeah, well, those are IMPERIAL foot pounds..... Greg Solow wrote: > We lubricate the lug nuts with "never seize" and torque them to 40 lbs. ft > torque. Because the end of the studs going into the wheel hub are smaller > than the end that goes through the wheel, the torque that the stud can > safely take is limited by the inner end. Forty lbs.. of torque is plenty to > hold the wheel securely, 70 or 80 is almost surely guaranteed to either > damage the threads of the nuts or studs or loosen the studs from the hubs. > This information applies the all Morgans up to 1968, not necessarily to +8s > and later other models. > > Regards, Greg Solow > -----Original Message----- > From: jpavone@vanstar.com > To: Carfindr@tiac.net ; morgans@autox.team.net > > Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 7:48 AM > Subject: Correction on Re: Specs. please? > > > > >Rechecked the book, it states 2 1/2 imperial pints for the rear axle and > >also 2 1/2 imperial pints for the moss gearbox. The wheel lug torque spec > >is 70/80 ft lbs. > > > >---------------------- Forwarded by John Pavone/Notes4/Vanstar on 04/23/99 > >10:20 AM --------------------------- > > > > > >John Pavone > >04/21/99 08:56 AM > > > >To: Carfindr @ tiac.net, Morgans @ autox.team.net > >cc: > >Subject: Re: Specs. please? (Document link not converted) > > > >My book states 2.1 Imperial pints for the 3HA rear axle. I believe an > >Imperial pint is slightly greater than a regular one. Dunno about your > >gear box as mine is from the Ford Family. > > > >regards, > > > >John > >59' 4/4 > > > > > > > > > >From: Jeff Webster on 04/21/99 05:27 AM PDT > > > >To: Morgans @ autox.team.net@SMTP@Exchange > >cc: > >Subject: Specs. please? > > > >Hi there, > >Would someone be kind enough to e-mail me the oil capacity for the back > >axle > >and the gear box of my 58 Plus 4. It has the Moss Box. > >(I know I could normally use the dip stick and fill the rear end until it > >comes back out the fill hole - but the back of my car is in the air right > >now, and I can't put it down to get a level reading). > >One other thing, what are the recommended torque wrench settings for my > >wheel/lug nuts? > > > >Many thanks, > > > >Jeff > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Wed Apr 28 19:19:14 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:54:47 -0400 Subject: + 4 rear axle-lim.slip.diff. Can anyone help this fellow. Unfortunately, I don't have much info on the rear ends. John -------------- >Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 09:00:02 +0200 >From: "e.g. Jørgen Rotzow Jensen" >To: jblair@exis.net >Subject: + 4 rear axle-lim.slip.diff. > >Hello. >I am searching a 7HA rearaxle or just the housing to build onto my 1959 >+ 4 with a 3HA axle, with no option for lim.slip. >Can you help me find these things. >, or lead me on the way. >Thank you in advance. >Jorgen Rotzow Jensen >Gruts Alle 2 >2900 Hellerup >Denmark > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: webus80.wang.com/BI (new adderss) From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 29 02:36:59 1999 From: Dave.Vodden@uk.ecitele.com To: rotzow@image.dk Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:33:59 +0100 Subject: Re: + 4 rear axle-lim.slip.diff. --0__=MZKLrznN5DKrVUSaN6QJqv4pgGHQdXiKGtGrmi8vhbmeqB8qqXvFg1WF Content-Disposition: inline I suggest you try the larger UK dealers (URLs follow) http://www.morgan-motor.co.uk/morgan.html http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/WykehamsMorganAgents/ http://www.pcdeal.com/morgan/ http://www.fhdouglass.co.uk/ http://www.bhm.uk.com/ http://www.harpers-morgan.com/ http://www.allonwhite.co.uk/ Dave Vodden "John T. Blair" on 29/04/99 01:54:47 Please respond to "John T. Blair" To: morgans@autox.team.net cc: (bcc: Dave Vodden/Basingstoke/ECI Telecom) Subject: + 4 rear axle-lim.slip.diff. Can anyone help this fellow. Unfortunately, I don't have much info on the rear ends. John -------------- >Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 09:00:02 +0200 >From: "e.g. J --0__=MZKLrznN5DKrVUSaN6QJqv4pgGHQdXiKGtGrmi8vhbmeqB8qqXvFg1WF Content-Disposition: inline =F8rgen Rotzow Jensen" >To: jblair@exis.net >Subject: + 4 rear axle-lim.slip.diff. > >Hello. >I am searching a 7HA rearaxle or just the housing to build onto my 195= 9 >+ 4 with a 3HA axle, with no option for lim.slip. >Can you help me find these things. >, or lead me on the way. >Thank you in advance. >Jorgen Rotzow Jensen >Gruts Alle 2 >2900 Hellerup >Denmark > > John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: webus80.wang.com/BI (new adderss) = --0__=MZKLrznN5DKrVUSaN6QJqv4pgGHQdXiKGtGrmi8vhbmeqB8qqXvFg1WF-- From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 29 07:36:26 1999 From: jpavone@vanstar.com To: Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 06:35:27 -0700 Subject: Looking for Side screen hardware I'm looking for some small hardware fixtures for the early fixed (non-sliding window) sidescreens. These fixtures resemble small pop rivets but are threaded in the center and have a screwdriver slot on the head. The purpose of these is to join the chrome decorative srtips and the sidescreen fabric to the frames. None of the Morgan specialists carry these. Any leads would be appreciated. Regards, John 59' 4/4 From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 29 08:05:47 1999 From: Andy Bleasdale To: jpavone@vanstar.com Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 15:03:09 +0100 Subject: Re: Looking for Side screen hardware Hi John Try Woolies they have everything that I have needed for the re trim on my 56 4/4 series II http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk hope this helps Andy In message <88256762.00497D73.00@VSMTA1.Vanstar.com>, jpavone@vanstar.com writes > >I'm looking for some small hardware fixtures for the early fixed >(non-sliding window) sidescreens. These fixtures resemble small pop rivets >but are threaded in the center and have a screwdriver slot on the head. The >purpose of these is to join the chrome decorative srtips and the sidescreen >fabric to the frames. None of the Morgan specialists carry these. Any leads >would be appreciated. > >Regards, > >John > >59' 4/4 > > -- Andy Bleasdale From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 29 12:38:01 1999 From: "NORWOOD" To: "Morgan" Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 18:53:59 +0100 Subject: +8 Radiator Removal Hi, I have a 1993 +8, which has a leaking radiator. Any ideas the best way to remove it? It looks if it will drop out if the fan is removed. Thanks, George From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 29 15:05:45 1999 From: "John T. Blair" To: "NORWOOD" , morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 16:56:30 -0400 Subject: Re: +8 Radiator Removal At 06:53 PM 4/29/99 +0100, you wrote: >I have a 1993 +8, which has a leaking radiator. Any ideas the best way to >remove it? It looks if it will drop out if the fan is removed. George, Check the article on my Morgan web page: www.team.net/www/morgan In the "Nuts & Bolts" section, "Restoration articles", "Mics. articles:", "Cooling": Removing The Radiator By: John Rogers, Greg Solow, Joseph DeLuca - Jan 99: John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan Bricklin: webus80.wang.com/BI (new adderss) From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 29 17:05:04 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 19:02:55 -0400 Subject: Re: On the lighter side.... A successful lawyer friend of mine finally took delivery of his new 'long door' Plus 8 Morgan, after what seems like years of waiting! I was lucky enough to be invited to go with him to pick it up from the dealer. On our way home we decided that he should stop buy his office to show the car off to his colleagues. Well, his office is on a one way street and as he got out, a truck came along too close to the curb, and completely tore off the drivers door! Jim went ballistic, he immediately grabbed his cell phone, dialed 911, and almost before he'd hung up the phone a cop arrived. Well, before the cop had a chance to ask any questions, Jim started screaming hysterically. His Morgan, which he had been waiting years for and had finally got, was completely ruined and would never be the same, no matter what specialty shop tried to make it new again. When Jim finally wound down from his rant, the cop was shaking his head in disbelief. "I can't believe how materialist you are" he said. "You are so focused on your possessions, you don't notice anything else" "How can you say such a thing" asked Jim. "Well didn't you know your left arm is missing from the elbow down? It must have been torn off when the truck hit you"! replied the cop. "MY GOD!" screamed Jim, "Where's my Rolex?" From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 29 18:07:13 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 20:04:23 -0400 Subject: Re: Jacksonville, FL Hi Gang, Anyone live, or know someone who lives in Jacksonville, Florida? Please e-mail me back immediately - I have a way for you/them to make $100 this weekend. Regards, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Thu Apr 29 19:50:19 1999 From: Jon Callas To: rfeibusch@loop.com (Rick Feibusch), morgans@autox.team.net Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 18:40:57 -0700 Subject: Re: California British Meets Does anyone have information on this weekend's meet near Monterey, or a pointer to it? Jon From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 30 05:47:37 1999 From: "Jeff Webster" To: Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 07:45:23 -0400 Subject: re: Cleaning cream switches and Indicator switch Here's one you'll like... I found a good way to clean up those cream switch knobs (for those of us who are lucky enough to have them) - OOOO steel wool. Brings them back like new. Add a little dab of black paint for the letter, let it dry, the lightly scrub off the excess - and bingo! The only bit I haven't figured out yet, is what to put on them to keep them from getting dirty again! While on the subject of switches. If you have one of the dash mounted 'pear shaped' indicator switches - should it point up or down? In the 'original' Morgan book, some are up some are down. Mine is currently down, but it seems to make more sense if it points up. You switch to 11 o'clock for a left turn and 1 o'clock for a right. What's the general concensus? Regards, Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 30 08:12:43 1999 From: Gerry Willburn To: carfindr@tiac.net, Morgans@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 07:10:49 -0700 Subject: RE: Cleaning cream switches and Indicator switch DOWN! I have never seen a new (or correctly restored) Morgan with them pointed any way but down. Gerry > -----Original Message----- > From: Jeff Webster [SMTP:carfindr@tiac.net] > Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 4:45 AM > To: Morgans@autox.team.net > Subject: re: Cleaning cream switches and Indicator switch > > Here's one you'll like... > I found a good way to clean up those cream switch knobs (for those of us > who > are lucky enough to have them) - OOOO steel wool. Brings them back like > new. > Add a little dab of black paint for the letter, let it dry, the lightly > scrub off the excess - and bingo! The only bit I haven't figured out yet, > is > what to put on them to keep them from getting dirty again! > While on the subject of switches. If you have one of the dash mounted > 'pear > shaped' indicator switches - should it point up or down? > In the 'original' Morgan book, some are up some are down. > Mine is currently down, but it seems to make more sense if it points up. > You > switch to 11 o'clock for a left turn and 1 o'clock for a right. > What's the general concensus? > > Regards, > > Jeff From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 30 08:23:20 1999 From: "DeLuca, Joseph" To: "'Morgans'" Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 10:16:38 -0400 Subject: MORGANEER ONLINE Good news! After a brief lapse (in geological terms) the Morgan 3/4 Group's newsletter, "The Morganeer", is now online again, courtesy of our friends at MORGAN SPARES. The journal, now edited by Tony Newton, can be seen by going to the MORGAN SPARES "Morgan Mall" at http://www.morgan-spares.com where the 3/4 Group's web site lives, or go directly to the newsletter at http://www.morgan-spares.com/three_fourgroup/inside_cover.html It includes our complete calendar of events, tech tips and the inevitable "Raymond the Cat" cartoon. Not mentioned in the April edition posted there is Stu Ross' New Jersey Opening Run coming this Sunday, May 2nd. Since Sunday is foretold to be a glorious sunny 72F, I'm adding the particulars below in case you'd like to join us. Thanks! Joe DeLuca Sparta, NJ '62 yellow 4/4 competition model Morgan 3/4 Group, USA **************************************************************************** * THE NEW JERSEY OPENING RUN at Lewis Morris Park in Morristown, NJ MAY 2nd - SUNDAY The NJ Triumph Club has their annual British Car Day in this large historical park. It's a very informal meet in a lovely setting and this will be the starting point for our event. We will assemble at the park and spend a few hours participating in the show, kicking tires, showing off our Morgans and socializing. The show opens at 9:00am, but you can arrive anytime before 1:00pm when we start our tour. The next phase of the event will be a Morgan tour of the scenic roads in Morris County and environs. This tour will leave at from Lewis Morris Park in the early afternoon and take about 40 minutes (20 miles). We will finish the tour at Willies Tavern in Bedminster for a late lunch and then depart for home or go to historic Chester for shopping. The Triumph Club will charge about $5-10 per car to enter the show. There is no judging of cars, but in the past they have awarded prizes for the best tailgate picnic, so you might want to participate in that event (but bear in mind we're going to that late lunch at Willies so plan your meals accordingly). DIRECTIONS: Lewis Morris Park is on Route 24, a few miles west of Morristown, NJ. The best way to get there is to take I-287 to Morristown and connect with Rt. 24 West. Go through Morristown (around the "Green" in the center of town) and continue West on Rt. 24. This will take you directly to the park. The Triumph club usually puts out signs and Union Jacks on Rt. 24 and in the park as landmarks to guide you to the meet. Rt. 24 continues West to Mendham and Chester. >From Pennsylvania, New York and Connecticut, there are a variety of possible routes. Check your map for the best way to get to Morristown and follow direction above. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 30 11:16:27 1999 From: "Harry Granito" To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 13:14:17 -0400 Subject: garages/repair Hello. I'm looking for garages that might take care of my new Morgan (1960 +4) in the Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA area. Thanks From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 30 18:31:03 1999 From: Eric Cummins To: Gerry Willburn , carfindr@tiac.net, Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 20:25:00 -0400 Subject: RE: Cleaning cream switches and Indicator switch While I would agree that it makes more sense to have the switch pointed down , if you look at the wiring diagram it would indicate that it should be mounted up. At 07:10 AM 4/30/99 -0700, Gerry Willburn wrote: >DOWN! > >I have never seen a new (or correctly restored) Morgan with them pointed any >way but down. > >Gerry > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Jeff Webster [SMTP:carfindr@tiac.net] >> Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 4:45 AM >> To: Morgans@autox.team.net >> Subject: re: Cleaning cream switches and Indicator switch >> >> Here's one you'll like... >> I found a good way to clean up those cream switch knobs (for those of us >> who >> are lucky enough to have them) - OOOO steel wool. Brings them back like >> new. >> Add a little dab of black paint for the letter, let it dry, the lightly >> scrub off the excess - and bingo! The only bit I haven't figured out yet, >> is >> what to put on them to keep them from getting dirty again! >> While on the subject of switches. If you have one of the dash mounted >> 'pear >> shaped' indicator switches - should it point up or down? >> In the 'original' Morgan book, some are up some are down. >> Mine is currently down, but it seems to make more sense if it points up. >> You >> switch to 11 o'clock for a left turn and 1 o'clock for a right. >> What's the general concensus? >> >> Regards, >> >> Jeff > > Eric Cummins 59 +4 2 str From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 30 21:46:17 1999 From: BCAH@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net, spridgets@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 23:44:03 EDT Subject: Haystack Does anyone know anything about a computer program called"Haystack"? I believe it is a program dealing with the selection of SU needles. Bob C. From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 30 21:52:26 1999 From: BCAH@aol.com To: morgans@autox.team.net Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 23:50:42 EDT Subject: test test From morgans-owner@autox.team.net Fri Apr 30 22:48:38 1999 From: "Michael D. Miles, PE" To: BCAH@aol.com Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 21:51:42 -0700 Subject: Re: Haystack We had a brief exposure to it on this mail list about 2 years ago. I have placed the self-extracting zipfile on my ftp site for you to load and try out. The executable is suneedle.exe (146 kb). It came from the SOL archives. I haven't used it but you're welcome to try it. I've also placed a FAQ (su carbs.html) about carburetors that I found elsewhere (if anyone claims rights to it, my apologies but I believe it is public already). The ftp site is ftp.teleport.com/pub/users/mdmiles/Morgans (anonyomous login, email address as password) For those of you using browsers instead of ftp software, enter the following on the URL line instead of http://www.~~ ftp://ftp.teleport.com/pub/users/mdmiles/Morgans Then hold the shift key down and click on the suneedle.exe listing and it will proceed to download to your computer (your system should ask what name you want to save it as). For Apple users, I haven't faintest idea what to tell you other than pointing to the URL. BCAH@aol.com wrote: > > Does anyone know anything about a computer program called"Haystack"? I > believe it is a program dealing with the selection of SU needles. Bob C. -- "Entropy Happens!" Michael D. Miles, PE Consulting Design Engineer (503) 292-1234, FAX: (503) 292-1105 email: mdmiles@home.com http://www.mdmpe.com/