Subject: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem

From: Matthew Milkevitch <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 10:56:01 -0700

Dear Listers:

I have been working on my '74 MGB-GT lately, and I noticed that
the front wheels don't rotate the same.  The LH side rotates more freely than
the RH side.  

Thinking
 this was a sticking brake caliper, I replaced both
calipers, brake 
flexible lines and pads (along with the discs).  

After
doing this work, things 
are a little improved but the wheels still don't
rotate the same.  You 
can hear the RH side scraping when the wheel turns. 
When you pull the 
pads out of the RH side and push the caliper piston in a
little and 
re-install the pads, the wheel turns freely like the LH side. 
Once you 
push in the brake pedal in, however, the condition returns. 

To my
knowledge, the wheel bearings are correctly adjusted (outer nut to 60 ft/lbs,
the hub turns freely with no "clunk."

Any
 advice on where to check next?  Do
you think this is an issue with the 
master cylinder or the hard brake line to
that caliper perhaps?

Thanks for any help,
Matt Milkevitch
Maple Glen, PA
1974 MGB-GT
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From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 19:47:18 GMT

Matt,  The master cylinder is divided, with one section for front brakes and
the other for rear. It is unlikely that the MC is related to this.  More
likely is that the brake hose or the brake calliper piston is causing the
problem. That you were able to relieve it when you prised the piston back
shows that the problem is on one side.  Brake hoses fail internally while
appearing on the outside to be perfect. I would suggest that if you are
uncertain of their age, or if you know that they are over ten years of age, to
replace all three of them, and the clutch hose as well. It may, of course, be
the piston, but  old hoses are eventually going to cause you concern.  If you
remove the pads on the affected wheel, you can gently squeeze out the piston.
Have a look at its outside diameter. If pitted or rusty, it may be sticking
and causing the problem. You may be able to polish it so that it does not
stick any more, but for the effort involved, I think replacing them is the way
to go.   Brake parts for MGB are not expensive, so replacing anything that
could be at fault is not wasted effort.Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Matthew Milkevitch <[email-masked]>
To: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Subject: [Mgs] Brake Caliper Problem
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 10:56:01 -0700

Dear Listers:

Thinking

After
doing this work, things

To my

Any

Thanks for any help,
Matt Milkevitch
Maple Glen, PA
1974 MGB-GT

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]
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From: John Di Fede <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 20:56:00 -0400

Matt,

Unless the brake pads are really pressing up against the rotors, you may not
have a problem at all.

I would drive the car for a few miles and then check the temperature of the
RH wheel.  It will be very hot if the brakes are applying pressure against
the rotor.   You can check the temperature by touching the center of each
front wheel and compare the temperature.    If there is a problem with the
brakes, the RH wheel will be hot.  

John Di Fede   

------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Message-ID:
	<[email-masked]>

Dear Listers:

I have been working on my '74 MGB-GT lately, and I noticed that the front
wheels don't rotate the same.  The LH side rotates more freely than the RH
side.  

Thinking
 this was a sticking brake caliper, I replaced both calipers, brake flexible
lines and pads (along with the discs).  

After
doing this work, things
are a little improved but the wheels still don't rotate the same.  You can
hear the RH side scraping when the wheel turns. 
When you pull the
pads out of the RH side and push the caliper piston in a little and
re-install the pads, the wheel turns freely like the LH side. 
Once you
push in the brake pedal in, however, the condition returns. 

To my
knowledge, the wheel bearings are correctly adjusted (outer nut to 60
ft/lbs, the hub turns freely with no "clunk."

Any
 advice on where to check next?  Do
you think this is an issue with the
master cylinder or the hard brake line to that caliper perhaps?

Thanks for any help,
Matt Milkevitch
Maple Glen, PA
1974 MGB-GT

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From: "PaulHunt73" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 08:29:22 +0100

That's a lot of time, trouble and money to expend without doing a proper 
diagnosis, particularly when it didn't solve the problem.

Firstly, you should have retracted the pistons, or removed the pads, and 
spun the wheels.  Are they the same or different now?  If different it's 
something to do with the hubs, not the braking system.

If they spin the same with the pistons retracted, but don't when the brakes 
are applied and released, briefly slacken the bleed nipple on the binding 
side.  If they then spin the same, and especially if there was a spurt of 
fluid when you slackened the bleed nipple, then the flex hose that side is 
probably breaking down and acting as a one-way valve.

If the binding side still binds with the bleed nipple having been slackened 
then retract the pistons all the way back, and have someone very slowly push 
the brake pedal bit by bit while you see what the pistons are doing.  If one 
or both pistons on the binding wheel only start moving when the others are 
pushing their pads right up against the disc, and particularly if they are 
retarding their disc, then you probably have a sticking piston.  It's worth 
removing the pads, extending the pistons, then wrapping one turn of cord 
round them dampened with brake fluid, and pulling the cord back and fore to 
polish the pistons.

PaulH.

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