Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 68, Issue 5

From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 12:48:44 GMT

Interesting thought.
  One never torques a stud into a casting. Rule of thumb is to turn it in
finger tight, then back off a little.
  If one were to put for reference a scratch across the nut end of the stud,
it would seem to make your idea ideal.
  It's new to me; thanks for suggesting it.
Bob

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Glenn Schnittke <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 68, Issue 5
Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 21:13:37 -0600

I've been working on this same question on an XPEG. The response from
the old hands I've talked to has always been ' rearrange the nuts to
best fit and  then shave the bottom of the rest on  a glass plate to fit'.

My thought on that is 'what keeps the stud itself in place'? There's
never a torque value for bottoming the stud into the block. And there's
no mechanical device to keep the stud from backing out, so what's
keeping the whole assembly from backing out even with the cotter pin
through the castellated nut or nylock or whatever you're using on the
top side?

It's just one of those things that has puzzled me through the years -
what keeps a stud from backing out when the nut holding whatever it is
in place has a VERY specific torque value?

Moss's answer seems to be nylock nuts. I don't trust them. On top of
having to figure the friction value onto the eventual torque value, I'm
concerned about how the heat will affect the nylon over time. If I have
to go to a locking nut I should rather trust an aircraft nut which has a
metal-to-metal contact and I'd still have to factor in the friction to
the eventual torque value.

I've seen all kinds of discussion on specific torque values for heads,
main caps, conrods, etc. I've found nothing in any manual or discussion
about the proper torque for bottoming a stud. I'm sure I'm going to
excite all the engineers on the list by bringing this up, but why can't
I just back off the stud just a little bit to move the cotter pin hole
to meet the castle nut?

Glenn

> From: Duvall Video Productions<[email-masked]>
> To:[email-masked]
> Subject: [Mgs] loctite question
> Message-ID:<[email-masked]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Anyone use red loctite instead of mechanical fasteners on main cap nuts?
I
> have an MPJG engine from a TA when I torque down the mains, the holes don't
> line up to the castle nuts for the wire.   I don't want to over torque and
if
> I back them up to match the hole, I loose my torque.
>
> Suggestions?
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