Subject: Re: [Mgs] MG activity

From: Max Heim <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2012 13:14:19 -0800

Forgot to mention the other little problem: in re-tightening the front
"lever & pin", I broke the bolt. Of course I couldn't find an exact
replacement at the hardware store -- the nut was some odd size that neither
5/16 or 11/32 fit effectively (I assume that was 21/64, but WHY????). So I
grabbed a pair of metric bolts that take an 8mm perfectly (a pair, so that
the same socket would fit both). I also ordered a new unit from Moss, but
when it arrived I refused to put it on the car -- it was just too cheesy
(yes, even cheesier than using metric hardware). The piece was just a bent
stamping -- instead of the pressed-in round pin, it had a bent flat tab. I
wasn't convinced that it would actuate simultaneously with the other pin,
based on the completely different shape. Plus, it just looked cheap, like it
was from a Geo Metro (my baseline for cheap construction -- everything on
that car was a cheap stamping, including the axle nuts).

Anyway, it's all back together, tuned and test-run.

During this process, I discovered that the heater valve control cable had
become detached. The set screw was spinning in the cable clamp, but a new
screw seemed to fix that.

While I was at it, I thought I would try to center the steering wheel, which
had been bugging me -- it was a tooth off-center. But in order to undo the
nut, I had to remove the horn button, and starting this procedure brought to
mind the problems I had had installing the new steering wheel, which was
slightly thicker. Anyway, the three set screws around the edge of the hub
all had stripped slots. I managed to back one out purely using friction.
Then I unbolted the wheel from the adapter by removing the perimeter screws.
I couldn't remove the wheel, which was still trapped by the horn button, but
it gave me enough wiggle room to rotate the button and pry it off. Then I
loosened the center nut and removed the hub, and took it to my workbench to
get the stripped set screws out. I managed to remove two of them and fab up
replacements -- the horn button has a notch, so it can be slipped on over a
single fixed set screw.

I had marked the hub position, so I refitted it one tooth over, got the
wheel back together and tested the horn, which operated no more erratically
then previously. So I chalked that up as a win.

But if I actually want to drive it anywhere, I suppose I need to bow to the
calendar and fit the hardtop. Today, for instance, started off sunny, then
featured a succession of torrential downpours, many with the sun still
shining.

--

Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires

on 12/6/12 5:19 PM, Max Heim at [email-masked] wrote:

> Well, my MGB has been inactive for some time, while I have been sorting out
> the carburetors. Here is a partial rundown of the process so far:
> 
> [Problem -- solution]
> Sticky piston -- fitted a different suction chamber; dismantled, cleaned and
> reassembled both carbs; centered jets.
> Pulled the pipe out of the jet when refitting -- ordered new jet from Moss.
> Rear carb not returning to idle -- removed idle cam & spring and reassembled
> with washers in correct position.
> Rear carb still not returning to idle -- discovered throttle lever was loose
> on shaft; peened lever, added washer.
> Rear carb STILL not returning to idle -- discovered shaft was bulging at
> ends of butterfly slot, causing it to stick; sanded down shaft to round
> section.
> 
> The array is reassembled (again), but between downpours and early sundowns I
> haven't got them set up or synced yet.
> 
> Missed a scheduled backroad run on the last sunny weekend, too.
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Menlo Park, CA,
> it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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