Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news

From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 07:23:20 -0500

The bad news is that if opening the bleed  valve on the slave cylinder 
doesn't let the throwout arm retract, the engine/gearbox probably need 
to come back out so that you can see why the clutch disengaged when you 
cinched the gearbox up to the engine.  Has this engine/gearbox combo 
worked before?

CR

On 10/25/2012 3:19 AM, Larry Colen wrote:
> Good news:
> http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631848931452/
>
> Jasmine's motor is in place.
>
> Bad news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the fly
> wheel. When it first went in, moving the car back and forth, in gear, would
> move the engine. But there was about a 1/2" gap between the engine and the
> transmission. I put bolts through the holes to cinch it down, and it closed
> the gap with little problem. Not loud sproings like I busted something, or
> anything like that.
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From: "PaulHunt73" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 14:21:38 +0100

Are you sure you don't have the friction plate the wrong way round?  The 
wrong way it is the projecting centre and damper springs that rest on the 
flywheel, not the friction material.  That also means the cover plate has to 
be bolted up quite a bit more that it should, which is normally about 1/4".

You certainly shouldn't have to pull the engine and bellhousing together 
with bolts, and unless you do all of them together or nearly so  you can 
damage things.  That said I don't know about a non-standard gearbox.

Air in the hydraulics won't prevent the rear wheels turning the engine - 
when it is in gear! - quite the opposite, you wouldn't be able to disengage 
the clutch when you push the pedal down.  You should be able to move the 
release arm sticking out of the bell housing back and fore, with a little 
pressure if there is no air in the hydraulics as it is then pushing excess 
fluid back into the master (watch it doesn't overflow).

It may be because the slave push-rod is too long for this gearbox, the 
piston has bottomed, which could explain why you had to pull the two halves 
together with bolts, also why the clutch is now disengaged.  If you can't 
push the pushrod any further back into the cylinder, and the release arm has 
no free play or movement, that could well be the case.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> wheel. 

[email-masked]

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From: [email-masked]
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 23:26:53 -0500 (CDT)

Looks very nice Larry.

Listers:  I have a Bugeye and an
MGA 1500 and my firing order is 1-3-4-2 and I believe the MGB is
also.  Your distributor orientation looks correct (vacuum advance in
the 10 o'clock position) but your plug leads don't look correct.  I
think the #1 wire should be in the 1 o'clock position on the distributor
then going counter-clockwise, the #3 wire, then #4, then #2.
Please
correct me if I'm wrong.  Maybe your distributor drive is 180*
out??  Just something in the picture didn't look right and trying to
save you some trouble.

Anybody else??

Just butting
in....

Dave W.

> Bad
news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the
> fly

[email-masked]

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From: "\" Just Brits \" Shop" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 00:05:01 -0500

<< On 10/25/2012 11:26 PM, [email-masked] wrote:

.......but your plug leads don't look correct.  I think the #1 wire should be in the 1 o'clock position on the distributor then going counter-clockwise, the #3 wire, then #4, then #2. >>

Unless my eyes are SO shot from looking at a BMC Parts Catalogue with it's -10 point font print, all but # 3 are wrong, Dave <G> ! ! !

The way I see it (counter-clockwise):

Dist. # 1 goes to Plug # 2
Dist. # 4 goes to Plug # 1
Dist. # 3 goes to Plug # 3
Dist. # 2 goes to Plug # 4

BUT, dizzy DOES look incorrectly 'positioned' <G> ! ! !

Larry, Dave is correct in that #1 wire (cap) should be at 1:00 o'clock ! !
Yours looks to be at close to 3:00 o'clock ? ! ?

HOW did you put the dizzy "drive shaft" in ?????????

Have you turned to motor since you FIRST installed timing chain (with dots aligned<G>)???

GREAT lookin' job ! ! !   Question:  Can't tell for SURE, but are there rubber 'o' rings under
cyl. head nuts as visible in last picture ??  I tried to enlarge, but............<G> ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:
www.justbrits.com

[email-masked]

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From: Larry Colen <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 00:01:20 -0700

I didn't assemble the motor.  It was done by a friend at a race shop.  A saga
in itself.

On Oct 25, 2012, at 10:05 PM, Just Brits Shop wrote:

> .......but your plug leads don't look correct.  I think the #1 wire should
be in the 1 o'clock position on the distributor then going counter-clockwise,
the #3 wire, then #4, then #2. >>
>
> Unless my eyes are SO shot from looking at a BMC Parts Catalogue with it's
-10 point font print, all but # 3 are wrong, Dave <G> ! ! !
> Yours looks to be at close to 3:00 o'clock ? ! ?

When I was horsing things around, I found that the adjustment on the dizzy
wasn't tightened down, and its position is completely random.

I am expecting/planning on setting timing from first principles when I'm a lot
closer to being ready to fire it up.

Given my preferences, I'd like to pull the dizzy, and the carb, and replace
them with a megasquirt system with crank based timing.  I'm afraid that
probably won't happen in the near future.

> HOW did you put the dizzy "drive shaft" in ?????????

I gave a pile of parts to Leroy Lacy and said, "Please make these into a
complete motor".  Actually I asked about the shop where he was building his
GT-2 tiger doing it, but as it turned out he ended up doing it, getting the
help of folks at that and the various other race shops right there.

> Have you turned to motor since you FIRST installed timing chain (with dots
aligned<G>)???

The motor has turned since then.

> cyl. head nuts as visible in last picture ??  I tried to enlarge,
but............<G> ! !

Nope, those are fancy ARP cylinder head nuts.

It's a pretty crazy motor, between the aluminum flywheel, head and backing
plate, along with the reduction gear motor, I've knocked fifty static pounds
off the motor (probably worth about half a second a lap).  I've got a hi-flow
(hp-performance) supercharger, pauter rods, Armand Ayala did the crank,
venolia pistons, an aluminum head that was ported by Don Redmond (Replicka
Machinen), roller rockers, Dima Elgin ground the cam to Hans Pederson's specs,
and I've got the special header that Hans developed for the supercharged
motors.

With what I later discovered was  cracked iron head, the previous incarnation
of the motor, with the blower, saw 90 hp to the ground, and once peaked at
100. So, I'm hoping to consistently get a little better than 100 to the ground
with the ported aluminum head.

http://www.red4est.com/jasmine/dyno030304/dyno/dyno13.jpg

It was pretty impressive, she'd keep up with the spec miatas on the straights
at thunder hill.

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Larry Colen [email-masked] sent from i4est
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