Subject: [Mgs] Clutch problem solved

From: Larry Colen <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 11:20:59 -0700

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Charley & Peggy Robinson <[email-masked]>
> Date: October 25, 2012 5:23:20 AM PDT
> To: Larry Colen <[email-masked]>
> Cc: [email-masked]
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news
> Reply-To: [email-masked]
>
> The bad news is that if opening the bleed  valve on the slave cylinder
doesn't let the throwout arm retract, the engine/gearbox probably need to come
back out so that you can see why the clutch disengaged when you cinched the
gearbox up to the engine.  Has this engine/gearbox combo worked before?

Yup, I put about 5,000 miles on it before having to take the motor apart.
Even used the same pressure plate and disk.

>
> CR
>
> On 10/25/2012 3:19 AM, Larry Colen wrote:
>> Good news:
>> http://www.flickriver.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157631848931452/
>>
>> Jasmine's motor is in place.
>>
>> Bad news, the clutch doesn't seem to be connecting the transmission to the
fly
>> wheel. When it first went in, moving the car back and forth, in gear,
would
>> move the engine. But there was about a 1/2" gap between the engine and the
>> transmission. I put bolts through the holes to cinch it down, and it
closed
>> the gap with little problem. Not loud sproings like I busted something, or
>> anything like that.
>>
>>
>
>
Begin forwarded message:

> From: "PaulHunt73" <[email-masked]>
> Date: October 25, 2012 6:21:38 AM PDT
> To: "Larry Colen" <[email-masked]>, "MG List" <[email-masked]>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Good news / Bad news
>
> Are you sure you don't have the friction plate the wrong way round?  The
wrong way it is the projecting centre and damper springs that rest on the
flywheel, not the friction material.  That also means the cover plate has to
be bolted up quite a bit more that it should, which is normally about 1/4".

Yes.  I'm sure.

>
> You certainly shouldn't have to pull the engine and bellhousing together
with bolts, and unless you do all of them together or nearly so  you can
damage things.  That said I don't know about a non-standard gearbox.
>
> Air in the hydraulics won't prevent the rear wheels turning the engine -
when it is in gear! - quite the opposite, you wouldn't be able to disengage
the clutch when you push the pedal down.  You should be able to move the
release arm sticking out of the bell housing back and fore, with a little
pressure if there is no air in the hydraulics as it is then pushing excess
fluid back into the master (watch it doesn't overflow).
>
> It may be because the slave push-rod is too long for this gearbox, the
piston has bottomed, which could explain why you had to pull the two halves
together with bolts, also why the clutch is now disengaged.  If you can't push
the pushrod any further back into the cylinder, and the release arm has no
free play or movement, that could well be the case.

This was about the closest.  The car sat for about 10 years, it seems that the
slave extended a bit, went dry and rusted in place.  I pulled the slave
cylinder and everything popped into place and worked fine.  This also
explained why it felt like I was pulling the bellhousing and engine together
against springs.

--
Larry Colen [email-masked] sent from i4est
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