Subject: Re: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper

From: "Chad" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 08:42:27 -0500

Get some Flux, it will eat the corrosion and allow the solder to bond. It's
a paste when you heat up the area with soldering iron it will clean the
connection.

Chad Cooper
'72 B Roadster

-----Original Message-----
From: [email-masked] [mailto:[email-masked]] On
Behalf Of Rick Lindsay
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 6:42 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Mgs] soldering corroded copper

Hello Friends,

Generic question for the metallurgy gifted:  What chemical do you recommend
for cleaning away copper corrosion so I can solder electrical connections?

Background: My '69 Silver Shadow was a techno-marvel for its day.  The
entire fuse, relay and circuit breaker panel is a tough, thick, glass fiber
printed circuit board.  The connectors and fuse holders are clamped to the
board/lands
with copper rivets.   Today, 43 years later, the copper of the lands, fuse
holders and rivets has a nice non-conductive patina causing intermittent
open circuits.  I want to solder all the crimped bits together but need to
remove the oxide first.  Thus the question.

Yes, the topic car is OT but the issue of corroded electrical connections
plagues us all.  Ergo, I query the collective wizardry of the forum.

Thanks and best regards,

-rick
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From: "PaulHunt73" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 15:39:28 +0100

There is flux and flux.  Soldering flux i.e. in cored solder can only remove 
microscopic layers of oxidisation from basically clean copper, it won't 
remove corrosion.  Acid flux as in a paste typically contains hydrochloric 
acid and may well be able to remove heavier corrosion, but then you have to 
completely remove that flux or it continues to eat away at everything.  Wire 
wool should be able to clean the copper rivets, also the copper tracks but 
you may abrade them away.  In the past I've repaired fractured and burnt 
tracks by wrapping a strand of copper round the component terminal and laid 
it along the track for an inch or so.  Should be easy enough on a 69 vintage 
circuit board, less so today!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

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From: "Pete Chast" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2012 19:36:26 -0400

Any Plumbing outlet has liquid flux.
Works well....

On Mon, 03 Sep 2012 09:42:27 -0400, Chad <[email-masked]> wrote:

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From: Henri Lefebvre <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2012 15:52:53 -0600

A bit late with my response, but earlier this summer I noticed that
the back of the fuse block on my MGB GT was dirty and had surface
corrosion.

I soaked it in 7% vinegar which helped a lot, then I applied some
'Spray Nine' solution and cleaned the rivets with a small brass brush.
Next I soaked the block in a baking soda solution for a minute or two,
to neutralize and rinsed with water.
Once the block was dry I applied some solder to each rivet to ensure a
good contact with the tabs and finished with a coat of 'Brush On
Electrical Tape' to seal the rivets and tab area.

I expect I will not need to worry much about the fuse block.

Henri

On Mon, Sep 3, 2012 at 5:42 AM, Rick Lindsay <[email-masked]> wrote:
> Background: My '69 Silver Shadow was a techno-marvel for its day.  The entire
> fuse, relay and circuit breaker panel is a tough, thick, glass fiber printed
> circuit board.  The connectors and fuse holders are clamped to the board/lands
> holders and rivets has a nice non-conductive patina causing intermittent open
> circuits.  I want to solder all the crimped bits together but need to remove
> the oxide first.  Thus the question.
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

---

From: "PaulHunt73" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 08:55:48 +0100

The thing is that the spades are riveted to the fuse holder so that as the 
wiring as attached and removed the spades can swivel a bit without twisting 
the fuseholder part.  They could have made the recess for the spades a 
closer tolerance so they couldn't swivel, but they didn't.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> good contact with the tabs 

[email-masked]