Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair

From: Richard Collins <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 23:11:02 +0000

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_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From: Laurie Wilford <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 23:54:32 +0000

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[email-masked]

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From: "JSARCH" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 17:35:59 -0700

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The most likely reason the steering wheel cracks come back is because =
the steel ring inside the plastic is continuing to rust and expand. =
Eventually the steel will rust through and the steering wheel will fall =
apart. I stored my BT7 steering wheel while restoring the rest of the =
car. When I started to restore it, it fell apart as if it was filled =
with dust. You may have observed this same process when you see cracked =
concrete with rust marks around the cracks. For safety=E2=80=99s sake, I =
don=E2=80=99t recommend restoring steering wheels.

=20

=20

From: Healeys <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Michael =
Salter
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2026 12:13 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair

=20

Many years ago, I repaired the large cracks in the original steering =
wheel of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel and filling =
the cracks with JB weld. After sanding and repainting with epoxy gloss =
black it looked great however, after a few years, more cracks appeared =
at the interface of the JB Weld and the original plastic from which the =
rim was molded. Back then I replaced the original wheel with a shiny new =
Motolita wood-rim wheel, with which I was never completely happy, and =
all was good, sort of.

I am now faced with having to do the same type of repair on the original =
wheel from the BN2 which I am currently restoring.

Before starting with the JB Weld process again I thought I should do a =
little research to see if I could find a filler material which would =
form a stronger bond with the plastic rim material.

Gemini told me that the rim was made of Bakelite but I was not =
convinced. Bakelite is a =E2=80=9Cthermoset=E2=80=9D plastic which, when =
heated, does not melt. A simple experiment quickly proved that the rim =
plastic was a thermo-plastic material because it easily melted and could =
be deformed when heated and again unlike Bakelite it dissolved in =
acetone.

I have done some Googling and it seems that it=E2=80=99s very likely =
that the plastic used for molding the rims was Tenite=E2=84=A2 cellulose =
acetate.=20

Does anyone know for sure what the original steering wheel rims were =
made from?

=20

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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72" style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>The most =
likely reason the steering wheel cracks come back is because the steel =
ring inside the plastic is continuing to rust and expand. Eventually the =
steel will rust through and the steering wheel will fall apart. I stored =
my BT7 steering wheel while restoring the rest of the car. When I =
started to restore it, it fell apart as if it was filled with dust. You =
may have observed this same process when you see cracked concrete with =
rust marks around the cracks. For safety=E2=80=99s sake, I don=E2=80=99t =
recommend restoring steering wheels.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 =
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Michael Salter<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, April 8, 2026 12:13 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] =
Steering wheel repair<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%'>Many years ago, I =
repaired the large cracks in the original steering wheel of my Phase 1 =
BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel and filling the cracks with JB =
weld. After sanding and repainting with epoxy gloss black it looked =
great however, after a few years, more cracks appeared at the interface =
of the JB Weld and the original plastic from which the rim was molded. =
Back then I replaced the original wheel with a shiny new Motolita =
wood-rim wheel, with which I was never completely happy, and all was =
good, sort of.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%'>I am now faced with =
having to do the same type of repair on the original wheel from the BN2 =
which I am currently restoring.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%'>Before starting with the =
JB Weld process again I thought I should do a little research to see if =
I could find a filler material which would form a stronger bond with the =
plastic rim material.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%'>Gemini told me that the =
rim was made of Bakelite but I was not convinced. Bakelite is a =
=E2=80=9Cthermoset=E2=80=9D plastic which, when heated, does not melt. A =
simple experiment quickly proved that the rim plastic was a =
thermo-plastic material because it easily melted and could be deformed =
when heated and again unlike Bakelite it dissolved in =
acetone.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%'>I have done some Googling =
and it seems that it=E2=80=99s very likely that the plastic used for =
molding the rims was Tenite=E2=84=A2 cellulose acetate. =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%'>Does anyone know for sure =
what the original steering wheel rims were made from?<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></di=
v></div></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2026 08:06:47 +0200 (CEST)

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Hi Michael,

I don't know what material was used for the steering wheels back then, but=
=20
I've learned that different materials were used for the Bluemel steering=20
wheels over the production run of our Healeys. The material used in the AH=
=20
100 steering wheels is much easier to repair than that used in steering=20
wheels from the 1960s. I've repaired steering wheels for a Daimler SP250,=
=20
and it was very difficult. The cracks kept reappearing. I don't use JB WELD=
=20
here, but on the advice of a steering wheel restorer, I use PC-7 epoxy.=20
This works wonderfully on AH 100 steering wheels. But even with this, it's=
=20
very difficult to permanently repair some of the later AH 3000 steering=20
wheels.

Hope this helps a bit.

=20

Josef Eckert

K=C3=B6nigswinter/Germany

=20

=20

=20

=20

-----Original-Nachricht-----

Betreff: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair

Datum: 2026-04-09T00:44:19+0200

Von: "Michael Salter" <[email-masked]>

An: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>

=20

=20

=20

Many years ago, I repaired the large cracks in the original steering wheel=
=20
of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel and filling the cracks=
=20
with JB weld. After sanding and repainting with epoxy gloss black it looked=
=20
great however, after a few years, more cracks appeared at the interface of=
=20
the JB Weld and the original plastic from which the rim was molded. Back=20
then I replaced the original wheel with a shiny new Motolita wood-rim=20
wheel, with which I was never completely happy, and all was good, sort of.

I am now faced with having to do the same type of repair on the original=20
wheel from the BN2 which I am currently restoring.

Before starting with the JB Weld process again I thought I should do a=20
little research to see if I could find a filler material which would form a=
=20
stronger bond with the plastic rim material.

Gemini told me that the rim was made of Bakelite but I was not convinced.=
=20
Bakelite is a =E2=80=9Cthermoset=E2=80=9D plastic which, when heated, does =
not melt. A=20
simple experiment quickly proved that the rim plastic was a thermo-plastic=
=20
material because it easily melted and could be deformed when heated and=20
again unlike Bakelite it dissolved in acetone.

I have done some Googling and it seems that it=E2=80=99s very likely that t=
he=20
plastic used for molding the rims was Tenite=E2=84=A2 cellulose acetate.

Does anyone know for sure what the original steering wheel rims were made=
=20
from?

=20

=EF=BB=BF
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3DUTF-8"/><title></title></head><body><p><span style=3D"font-family:arial,=
helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none"><sp=
an class=3D"HwtZe" lang=3D"en"><span class=3D"ryNqvb">Hi Michael, </span></=
span></span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;col=
or:#000000;text-decoration:none"><span class=3D"HwtZe" lang=3D"en"><span cl=
ass=3D"ryNqvb">I don't know what material was used for the steering wheels =
back then, but I've learned that different materials were used for the Blue=
mel steering wheels over the production run of our Healeys.</span> <span cl=
ass=3D"ryNqvb">The material used in the AH 100 steering wheels is much easi=
er to repair than that used in steering wheels from the 1960s.</span> <span=
 class=3D"ryNqvb">I've repaired steering wheels for a Daimler SP250, and it=
 was very difficult.</span> <span class=3D"ryNqvb">The cracks kept reappear=
ing.</span> <span class=3D"ryNqvb">I don't use JB WELD here, but on the adv=
ice of a steering wheel restorer, I use PC-7 epoxy.</span> <span class=3D"r=
yNqvb">This works wonderfully on AH 100 steering wheels.</span> <span class=
=3D"ryNqvb">But even with this, it's very difficult to permanently repair s=
ome of the later AH 3000 steering wheels.</span></span></span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;col=
or:#000000;text-decoration:none"><span class=3D"HwtZe" lang=3D"en"><span cl=
ass=3D"ryNqvb">Hope this helps a bit.</span></span></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;col=
or:#000000;text-decoration:none"><span class=3D"HwtZe" lang=3D"en"><span cl=
ass=3D"ryNqvb">Josef Eckert</span></span></span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;col=
or:#000000;text-decoration:none"><span class=3D"HwtZe" lang=3D"en"><span cl=
ass=3D"ryNqvb">K&ouml;nigswinter/Germany</span></span></span></p>
<p><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;col=
or:#000000;text-decoration:none">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>-----Original-Nachricht-----</p>
<p>Betreff: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair</p>
<p>Datum: 2026-04-09T00:44:19+0200</p>
<p>Von: "Michael Salter" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;</p>
<p>An: "[email-masked]" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div style=3D"position: relative; color: #000000; font: 12px Arial,Helvetic=
a,sans-serif;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-s=
ize: small;">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 8pt; line-height: 115%; fon=
t-size: 12pt; font-family: &amp;quot;">Many years ago, I repaired the large=
 cracks in the original steering wheel of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them o=
ut with a Dremel and filling the cracks with JB weld. After sanding and rep=
ainting with epoxy gloss black it looked great however, after a few years, =
more cracks appeared at the interface of the JB Weld and the original plast=
ic from which the rim was molded. Back then I replaced the original wheel w=
ith a shiny new Motolita wood-rim wheel, with which I was never completely =
happy, and all was good, sort of.</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 8pt; line-height: 115%; fon=
t-size: 12pt; font-family: &amp;quot;">I am now faced with having to do the=
 same type of repair on the original wheel from the BN2 which I am currentl=
y restoring.</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 8pt; line-height: 115%; fon=
t-size: 12pt; font-family: &amp;quot;">Before starting with the JB Weld pro=
cess again I thought I should do a little research to see if I could find a=
 filler material which would form a stronger bond with the plastic rim mate=
rial.</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 8pt; line-height: 115%; fon=
t-size: 12pt; font-family: &amp;quot;">Gemini told me that the rim was made=
 of Bakelite but I was not convinced. Bakelite is a &ldquo;thermoset&rdquo;=
 plastic which, when heated, does not melt. A simple experiment quickly pro=
ved that the rim plastic was a thermo-plastic material because it easily me=
lted and could be deformed when heated and again unlike Bakelite it dissolv=
ed in acetone.</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 8pt; line-height: 115%; fon=
t-size: 12pt; font-family: &amp;quot;">I have done some Googling and it see=
ms that it&rsquo;s very likely that the plastic used for molding the rims w=
as Tenite&trade; cellulose acetate.</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 8pt; line-height: 115%; fon=
t-size: 12pt; font-family: &amp;quot;">Does anyone know for sure what the o=
riginal steering wheel rims were made from?</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>=EF=BB=BF</body></html>
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[email-masked]

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From: Bob Spidell via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 10:35:03 -0700

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I bought one of the German 'uprated' water pumps which has an outlet 
plug that is the wrong size and leaks. I tried all my usual go-tos: 
teflon tape, JB weld, threadlocker, even brazing--which ruined the 
seal--and none of them sealed and held. Eventually, at the suggestion of 
our own Steven K. I tried Permatex 'Seal and Lock' which both sealed the 
leaks and secured the plug. I haven't tried it on steering wheels, but I 
think it worth a try (NFI)

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-THREADLOCKER-SandLK-1-18OZ-Industrial-Sealants/131196196?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0

On 4/8/2026 5:35 PM, JSARCH wrote:
>
> The most likely reason the steering wheel cracks come back is because 
> the steel ring inside the plastic is continuing to rust and expand. 
> Eventually the steel will rust through and the steering wheel will 
> fall apart. I stored my BT7 steering wheel while restoring the rest of 
> the car. When I started to restore it, it fell apart as if it was 
> filled with dust. You may have observed this same process when you see 
> cracked concrete with rust marks around the cracks. For safety’s sake, 
> I don’t recommend restoring steering wheels.
>
> *From:*Healeys <[email-masked]> *On Behalf Of *Michael 
> Salter
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 8, 2026 12:13 PM
> *To:* [email-masked]
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Steering wheel repair
>
> Many years ago, I repaired the large cracks in the original steering 
> wheel of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel and filling 
> the cracks with JB weld. After sanding and repainting with epoxy gloss 
> black it looked great however, after a few years, more cracks appeared 
> at the interface of the JB Weld and the original plastic from which 
> the rim was molded. Back then I replaced the original wheel with a 
> shiny new Motolita wood-rim wheel, with which I was never completely 
> happy, and all was good, sort of.
>
> I am now faced with having to do the same type of repair on the 
> original wheel from the BN2 which I am currently restoring.
>
> Before starting with the JB Weld process again I thought I should do a 
> little research to see if I could find a filler material which would 
> Gemini told me that the rim was made of Bakelite but I was not 
> convinced. Bakelite is a “thermoset” plastic which, when heated, does 
> not melt. A simple experiment quickly proved that the rim plastic was 
> a thermo-plastic material because it easily melted and could be 
> deformed when heated and again unlike Bakelite it dissolved in acetone.
>
> I have done some Googling and it seems that it’s very likely that the 
> plastic used for molding the rims was Tenite™ cellulose acetate.
>
> Does anyone know for sure what the original steering wheel rims were 
> made from?
>
>
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>

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  <body>
    I bought one of the German 'uprated' water pumps which has an outlet
    plug that is the wrong size and leaks. I tried all my usual go-tos:
    teflon tape, JB weld, threadlocker, even brazing--which ruined the
    seal--and none of them sealed and held. Eventually, at the
    suggestion of our own Steven K. I tried Permatex 'Seal and Lock'
    which both sealed the leaks and secured the plug. I haven't tried it
    on steering wheels, but I think it worth a try (NFI)<br>
    <br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-THREADLOCKER-SandLK-1-18OZ-Industrial-Sealants/131196196?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;selectedSellerId=0">https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-THREADLOCKER-SandLK-1-18OZ-Industrial-Sealants/131196196?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;selectedSellerId=0</a><br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/8/2026 5:35 PM, JSARCH wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif">The
            most likely reason the steering wheel cracks come back is
            because the steel ring inside the plastic is continuing to
            rust and expand. Eventually the steel will rust through and
            the steering wheel will fall apart. I stored my BT7 steering
            wheel while restoring the rest of the car. When I started to
            restore it, it fell apart as if it was filled with dust. You
            may have observed this same process when you see cracked
            concrete with rust marks around the cracks. For safety’s
            sake, I don’t recommend restoring steering wheels.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <div
style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
          <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif">
              Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <b>On
                Behalf Of </b>Michael Salter<br>
              <b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, April 8, 2026 12:13 PM<br>
              <b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
              <b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Steering wheel repair<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"
              style="margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%">Many years
              ago, I repaired the large cracks in the original steering
              wheel of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel
              and filling the cracks with JB weld. After sanding and
              repainting with epoxy gloss black it looked great however,
              after a few years, more cracks appeared at the interface
              of the JB Weld and the original plastic from which the rim
              was molded. Back then I replaced the original wheel with a
              shiny new Motolita wood-rim wheel, with which I was never
              completely happy, and all was good, sort of.<o:p></o:p></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"
              style="margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%">I am now
              faced with having to do the same type of repair on the
              original wheel from the BN2 which I am currently
              restoring.<o:p></o:p></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"
              style="margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%">Before
              starting with the JB Weld process again I thought I should
              do a little research to see if I could find a filler
              material which would form a stronger bond with the plastic
              rim material.<o:p></o:p></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"
              style="margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%">Gemini told
              me that the rim was made of Bakelite but I was not
              convinced. Bakelite is a “thermoset” plastic which, when
              heated, does not melt. A simple experiment quickly proved
              that the rim plastic was a thermo-plastic material because
              it easily melted and could be deformed when heated and
              again unlike Bakelite it dissolved in acetone.<o:p></o:p></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"
              style="margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%">I have done
              some Googling and it seems that it’s very likely that the
              plastic used for molding the rims was Tenite™ cellulose
              acetate. <o:p></o:p></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"
              style="margin-bottom:8.0pt;line-height:115%">Does anyone
              know for sure what the original steering wheel rims were
              made from?<o:p></o:p></p>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,sans-serif"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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      <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">_______________________________________________

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