Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine rebuild

From: warthodson--- via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2025 15:06:09 +0000 (UTC)

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I am preparing for the rebuild of my 100 engine & I need your help with a f=
ew questions.=C2=A0My intent is to build a strong/fast street drivable engi=
ne. The block will be bored out .020" to 0.30" over & will have a Welch "fa=
st road cam".=C2=A0 I am planning on an aluminum head, steel crank & forged=
, light weight connecting rods.=C2=A0My first question is should I have the=
 block boiled out & if I do will that require replacing the cam bearings?=
=C2=A0 I recall reading that they are not currently available. Is that stil=
l true?I was planning on a compression ratio in the range of 9.0 to 9.5. I =
notice that some suppliers only offer 8.6 as their high compression offerin=
g. What is the reason for this? Is it standard practice today to use piston=
s with 3 rings? Where is a good domestic source for pistons?
Gary Hodson
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydpc92ee0b7yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div id=3D"ydpc9=
2ee0b7yiv2369121233"><div style=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:16px;" class=3D"ydpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0yahoo-style-wrap=
"><div id=3D"ydpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0yiv0508496476"><div style=
=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"ydpc92e=
e0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0yiv0508496476yahoo-style-wrap"><div dir=3D"ltr"=
>I am preparing for the rebuild of my 100 engine &amp; I need your help wit=
h a few questions.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr">My intent is to build a stro=
ng/fast street drivable engine. The block will be bored out .020" to 0.30" =
over &amp; will have a Welch "fast road cam".&nbsp; I am planning on an alu=
minum head, steel crank &amp; forged, light weight connecting rods.&nbsp;</=
div><div dir=3D"ltr">My first question is should I have the block boiled ou=
t &amp; if I do will that require replacing the cam bearings?&nbsp; I recal=
l reading that they are not currently available. Is that still true?</div><=
div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I was planning on a compression ratio=
 in the range of 9.0 to 9.5. I notice that some suppliers only offer 8.6 as=
 their high compression offering. What is the reason for this? Is it standa=
rd practice today to use pistons with 3 rings? Where is a good domestic sou=
rce for pistons?</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setd=
ir=3D"false">Gary Hodson</div></div></div></div></div></div></body></html>
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_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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---

From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2025 15:37:24 +0000 (UTC)

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    format=flowed

I rebuilt my engine a few of years ago in my BN1. I had never built an eng=
ine but figured at 72 years old, maybe I should learn by doing. Since you'=
re having the engine bored, I had to have mine sleeved then bored, by all =
means get it "boiled" out at the same time. I did mine. Now mine was missi=
ng the engine plate already, so I didn't worry about that, but I had heard=
 about engine number plates dissolving away during that process, so check =
with your machine shop. I also have a fast road cam, came with the engine,=
 but I did get new bearings from MOSS and had my machine shop install them=
. I got my 100M spec pistons from AH Spares, 60 over. Long story on why th=
ose, but I made sure to take the piston to the machine shop so they could =
be the bore perfect. So yes on all new bearings, get everything checked by=
 your machine shop as far as all clearances, cam, crank, etc. Check all su=
rfaces as far as mating, assume nothing and finally, I went with a new cop=
per head gasket and blew that out in about 1200 miles! Had to redo the hea=
d, another long story, but got everything redone and reinstalled the head,=
 but this time with a DW steel head gasket. Make sure your assembly area i=
s surgically clean, use plenty of assembly grease and take your time. I've=
 now driven my car for over four years, and about 15 thousand miles and kn=
ock wood, it's still holding together. Best of luck. If you want to "hear"=
 the entire story, email me and let me know, lots of interesting mistakes,=
 but I'm glad I did it myself. The engine needed the rebuild, it wasn't my=
 choice just to do it, it had to be done, broken rings and scored cylinder=
 walls. But it's not rocket science. Steven Kingsbury BN1 On Apr 14, 2025,=
 at 8:25 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys <[email-masked]> wrote: I a=
m preparing for the rebuild of my 100 engine & I need your help with a few=
 questions. My intent is to build a strong/fast street drivable engine. Th=
e block will be bored out .020" to 0.30" over & will have a Welch "fast ro=
ad cam". I am planning on an aluminum head, steel crank & forged, light we=
ight connecting rods. My first question is should I have the block boiled =
out & if I do will that require replacing the cam bearings? I recall readi=
ng that they are not currently available. Is that still true? I was planni=
ng on a compression ratio in the range of 9.0 to 9.5. I notice that some s=
uppliers only offer 8.6 as their high compression offering. What is the re=
ason for this? Is it standard practice today to use pistons with 3 rings? =
Where is a good domestic source for pistons? Gary Hodson _________________=
______________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate=
.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/piperm=
ail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys [email-masked] h=
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://a=
utox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><body><div><div>I rebuilt my engine a few of years ago in my BN1. I had never bu=
ilt an engine but figured at 72 years old, maybe I should learn by doing. =
Since you're having the engine bored, I had to have mine sleeved then bore=
d, by all means get it "boiled" out at the same time. I did mine. Now mine=
 was missing the engine plate already, so I didn't worry about that, but I=
 had heard about engine number plates dissolving away during that process,=
 so check with your machine shop. I also have a fast road cam, came with t=
he engine, but I did get new bearings from MOSS and had my machine shop in=
stall them. I got my 100M spec pistons from AH Spares, 60 over. Long story=
 on why those, but I made sure to take the piston to the machine shop so t=
hey could be the bore perfect.<br></div><div>So yes on all new bearings, g=
et everything checked by your machine shop as far as all clearances, cam, =
crank, etc. Check all surfaces as far as mating, assume nothing and finall=
y, I went with a new copper head gasket and blew that out in about 1200 mi=
les! Had to redo the head, another long story, but got everything redone a=
nd reinstalled the head, but this time with a DW steel head gasket. Make s=
ure your assembly area is surgically clean, use plenty of assembly grease =
and take your time. I've now driven my car for over four years, and about =
15 thousand miles and knock wood, it's still holding together.&nbsp;<br></=
div><div>Best of luck. If you want to "hear" the entire story, email me an=
d let me know, lots of interesting mistakes, but I'm glad I did it myself.=
 The engine needed the rebuild, it wasn't my choice just to do it, it had =
to be done, broken rings and scored cylinder walls. But it's not rocket sc=
ience.&nbsp;<br></div><div>Steven Kingsbury<br></div><div>BN1</div><div><b=
r></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On Apr 14, 2025, at 8:25 AM, wartho=
dson--- via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br></div><div><b=
r></div><div><br></div><div><div style=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-=
serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"ydpc92ee0b7yahoo-style-wrap"><div id=3D"yd=
pc92ee0b7yiv2369121233"><div class=3D"ydpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0y=
ahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:=
16px;"><div id=3D"ydpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0yiv0508496476"><div c=
lass=3D"ydpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0yiv0508496476yahoo-style-wrap" =
style=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div dir=3D=
"ltr">I am preparing for the rebuild of my 100 engine &amp; I need your he=
lp with a few questions.&nbsp;<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">My intent is to b=
uild a strong/fast street drivable engine. The block will be bored out .02=
0" to 0.30" over &amp; will have a Welch "fast road cam".&nbsp; I am plann=
ing on an aluminum head, steel crank &amp; forged, light weight connecting=
 rods.&nbsp;<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">My first question is should I have =
the block boiled out &amp; if I do will that require replacing the cam bea=
rings?&nbsp; I recall reading that they are not currently available. Is th=
at still true?<br></div><div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">I was plann=
ing on a compression ratio in the range of 9.0 to 9.5. I notice that some =
suppliers only offer 8.6 as their high compression offering. What is the r=
eason for this? Is it standard practice today to use pistons with 3 rings?=
 Where is a good domestic source for pistons?<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><b=
r></div><div data-setdir=3D"false" dir=3D"ltr">Gary Hodson<br></div></div>=
</div></div></div></div><div><div>________________________________________=
_______<br></div><div>Support <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"http:=
//Team.Net">Team.Net</a> <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"http://www=
.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br></div><div>S=
uggested annual donation  $12.75<br></div><div><br></div><div>Archive: <a =
rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"=
>http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys">http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve/healeys</a><br></div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@auto=
x.team.net">[email-masked]</a><br></div><div><a rel=3D"noopener no=
referrer" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://a=
utox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br></div><div><br></div><div>Un=
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iv></div></div></blockquote></div><div><br></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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From: Robert Markovich via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2025 19:39:29 +0000 (UTC)

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 Gary, it sounds to me as if you're doing all the right things based on my =
Healey 100 rebuild several years ago. Yes, I had the block boiled as part o=
f the machine-shop work. As for the parts, I also used a billet crank, 100M=
 cam, alloy head, and all other parts from Denis Welch--the crank being the=
 part that broke. These were rather spindly to begin with, and with that lo=
ng, long stroke and but three main bearings, replacing it with a better and=
 stronger crank is the only way to go. Same with the alloy head, as most or=
iginal heads are warped, cracked, or both after 70 years-plus. You also wan=
t the best cam and especially rod and crank bearings you can buy=E2=80=94as=
 in tri-metal, not just white metal, as original.
Three other suggestions: 1) Put in a rear lip seal while the engine and cra=
nk are out of the car. You can add on the seal to the later sixes with the =
engine and crank in place--but NOT on the fours. 2) Add a harmonic balancer=
 to the front to help lessen the crankshaft-killing torsional vibration wit=
h that long stroke. 3) Again, to help lessen vibration, install a lighter f=
lywheel. You don't have to go crazy light; 20-25 pounds should be just righ=
t, using, say a late BJ8 3000 flywheel. And be damned sure you use ARP bolt=
s, not Moss cheapies, to install it, again available from Welch or AH Spare=
s, paying careful attention to the torque settings; mine came loose (thankf=
ully without killing me). I really liked Welch because of their technical a=
ssistance on not only getting the RIGHT parts but ALL the parts =C2=A0neede=
d.=C2=A0
Some may see this as overkill for a car that isn't being raced. Don't liste=
n to them; Healey engine rebuilds are EXPENSIVE and the idea is to do it ju=
st once! Best of luck ...
    On Tuesday, April 15, 2025, 01:13:16 PM EDT, Steven Kingsbury via Heale=
ys <[email-masked]> wrote:  =20

 I rebuilt my engine a few of years ago in my BN1. I had never built an eng=
ine but figured at 72 years old, maybe I should learn by doing. Since you'r=
e having the engine bored, I had to have mine sleeved then bored, by all me=
ans get it "boiled" out at the same time. I did mine. Now mine was missing =
the engine plate already, so I didn't worry about that, but I had heard abo=
ut engine number plates dissolving away during that process, so check with =
your machine shop. I also have a fast road cam, came with the engine, but I=
 did get new bearings from MOSS and had my machine shop install them. I got=
 my 100M spec pistons from AH Spares, 60 over. Long story on why those, but=
 I made sure to take the piston to the machine shop so they could be the bo=
re perfect.
So yes on all new bearings, get everything checked by your machine shop as =
far as all clearances, cam, crank, etc. Check all surfaces as far as mating=
, assume nothing and finally, I went with a new copper head gasket and blew=
 that out in about 1200 miles! Had to redo the head, another long story, bu=
t got everything redone and reinstalled the head, but this time with a DW s=
teel head gasket. Make sure your assembly area is surgically clean, use ple=
nty of assembly grease and take your time. I've now driven my car for over =
four years, and about 15 thousand miles and knock wood, it's still holding =
together.=C2=A0
Best of luck. If you want to "hear" the entire story, email me and let me k=
now, lots of interesting mistakes, but I'm glad I did it myself. The engine=
 needed the rebuild, it wasn't my choice just to do it, it had to be done, =
broken rings and scored cylinder walls. But it's not rocket science.=C2=A0
Steven Kingsbury
BN1

On Apr 14, 2025, at 8:25 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys <[email-masked].=
net> wrote:

I am preparing for the rebuild of my 100 engine & I need your help with a f=
ew questions.=C2=A0
My intent is to build a strong/fast street drivable engine. The block will =
be bored out .020" to 0.30" over & will have a Welch "fast road cam".=C2=A0=
 I am planning on an aluminum head, steel crank & forged, light weight conn=
ecting rods.=C2=A0
My first question is should I have the block boiled out & if I do will that=
 require replacing the cam bearings?=C2=A0 I recall reading that they are n=
ot currently available. Is that still true?
I was planning on a compression ratio in the range of 9.0 to 9.5. I notice =
that some suppliers only offer 8.6 as their high compression offering. What=
 is the reason for this? Is it standard practice today to use pistons with =
3 rings? Where is a good domestic source for pistons?

Gary Hodson

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e/healeys

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e/healeys

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp723ab1fdyahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Gary, it sounds to me as if =
you're doing all the right things based on my Healey 100 rebuild several ye=
ars ago. Yes, I had the block boiled as part of the machine-shop work. As f=
or the parts, I also used a billet crank, 100M cam, alloy head, and all oth=
er parts from Denis Welch--the crank being the part that broke. These were =
rather spindly to begin with, and with that long, long stroke and but three=
 main bearings, replacing it with a better and stronger crank is the only w=
ay to go. Same with the alloy head, as most original heads are warped, crac=
ked, or both after 70 years-plus. You also want the best cam and especially=
 rod and crank bearings you can buy=E2=80=94as in tri-metal, not just white=
 metal, as original.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div>=
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Three other suggestions: 1) Put in a=
 rear lip seal while the engine and crank are out of the car. You can add o=
n the seal to the later sixes with the engine and crank in place--but NOT o=
n the fours. 2) Add a harmonic balancer to the front to help lessen the cra=
nkshaft-killing torsional vibration with that long stroke. 3) Again, to hel=
p lessen vibration, install a lighter flywheel. You don't have to go crazy =
light; 20-25 pounds should be just right, using, say a late BJ8 3000 flywhe=
el. And be damned sure you use ARP bolts, not Moss cheapies, to install it,=
 again available from Welch or AH Spares, paying careful attention to the t=
orque settings; mine came loose (thankfully without killing me). I really l=
iked Welch because of their technical assistance on not only getting the RI=
GHT parts but ALL the parts &nbsp;needed.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-=
setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Some may =
see this as overkill for a car that isn't being raced. Don't listen to them=
; Healey engine rebuilds are EXPENSIVE and the idea is to do it just once! =
Best of luck ...</div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp307b6e52yahoo_quoted_5452297918" class=3D"ydp30=
7b6e52yahoo_quoted"><div class=3D"ydp307b6e52yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"fon=
t-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div class=3D"ydp307b6e52quoted-text-header">
                        On Tuesday, April 15, 2025, 01:13:16 PM EDT, Steven=
 Kingsbury via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                    </div>
                </div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid #cc=
c;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px" class=3D"ydp307b6e52inline_rep=
ly_quote_container" data-split-quote-node=3D"true">
                <div><br></div><div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"ydp307b6e52yiv6483219436"><div><div><div>I =
rebuilt my engine a few of years ago in my BN1. I had never built an engine=
 but figured at 72 years old, maybe I should learn by doing. Since you're h=
aving the engine bored, I had to have mine sleeved then bored, by all means=
 get it "boiled" out at the same time. I did mine. Now mine was missing the=
 engine plate already, so I didn't worry about that, but I had heard about =
engine number plates dissolving away during that process, so check with you=
r machine shop. I also have a fast road cam, came with the engine, but I di=
d get new bearings from MOSS and had my machine shop install them. I got my=
 100M spec pistons from AH Spares, 60 over. Long story on why those, but I =
made sure to take the piston to the machine shop so they could be the bore =
perfect.<br></div><div>So yes on all new bearings, get everything checked b=
y your machine shop as far as all clearances, cam, crank, etc. Check all su=
rfaces as far as mating, assume nothing and finally, I went with a new copp=
er head gasket and blew that out in about 1200 miles! Had to redo the head,=
 another long story, but got everything redone and reinstalled the head, bu=
t this time with a DW steel head gasket. Make sure your assembly area is su=
rgically clean, use plenty of assembly grease and take your time. I've now =
driven my car for over four years, and about 15 thousand miles and knock wo=
od, it's still holding together.&nbsp;<br></div><div>Best of luck. If you w=
ant to "hear" the entire story, email me and let me know, lots of interesti=
ng mistakes, but I'm glad I did it myself. The engine needed the rebuild, i=
t wasn't my choice just to do it, it had to be done, broken rings and score=
d cylinder walls. But it's not rocket science.&nbsp;<br></div><div>Steven K=
ingsbury<br></div><div>BN1</div><div><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><d=
iv>On Apr 14, 2025, at 8:25 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;healeys@autox=
.team.net&gt; wrote:<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div style=
=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"ydp307b=
6e52yiv6483219436ydpc92ee0b7yahoo-style-wrap"><div id=3D"ydp307b6e52yiv6483=
219436ydpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233"><div style=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS, sa=
ns-serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"ydp307b6e52yiv6483219436ydpc92ee0b7yiv23=
69121233ydp676a8dc0yahoo-style-wrap"><div id=3D"ydp307b6e52yiv6483219436ydp=
c92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0yiv0508496476"><div style=3D"font-family:Co=
mic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;" class=3D"ydp307b6e52yiv6483219436y=
dpc92ee0b7yiv2369121233ydp676a8dc0yiv0508496476yahoo-style-wrap"><div dir=
=3D"ltr">I am preparing for the rebuild of my 100 engine &amp; I need your =
help with a few questions.&nbsp;<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">My intent is to =
build a strong/fast street drivable engine. The block will be bored out .02=
0" to 0.30" over &amp; will have a Welch "fast road cam".&nbsp; I am planni=
ng on an aluminum head, steel crank &amp; forged, light weight connecting r=
ods.&nbsp;<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">My first question is should I have the=
 block boiled out &amp; if I do will that require replacing the cam bearing=
s?&nbsp; I recall reading that they are not currently available. Is that st=
ill true?<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">I was planning on a compression ratio i=
n the range of 9.0 to 9.5. I notice that some suppliers only offer 8.6 as t=
heir high compression offering. What is the reason for this? Is it standard=
 practice today to use pistons with 3 rings? Where is a good domestic sourc=
e for pistons?<br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Gary Ho=
dson<br></div></div></div></div></div></div><div><div>_____________________=
__________________________<br></div><div>Support <a href=3D"http://Team.Net=
" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">Team.Net</a> <a href=3D"http://www.tea=
m.net/donate.html" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/d=
onate.html</a><br></div><div>Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br></div><di=
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