Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 17:06:43 -0500

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Very frustrating indeed.
I would comment that I don't believe that the needle is really meant to be
a "shut off" valve as there is always a tiny annular gap between it and the
jet. I presume that with the suction chamber and piston removed the fuel
level is observed to be at least 1/8" below the top of the jet.
I  can assure you that when everything is correct they don't leak.

M

On Sun., Dec. 22, 2024, 4:11 p.m. Hank Leach via Healeys, <
[email-masked]> wrote:

>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor
> overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but
> must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center
> and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel
> to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.
>
> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and
> replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center
> jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another
> 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on
> key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.
>
> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many
> times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.
> I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a
> British Car.
> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb
> cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places
> checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be
> between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090.
> Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean
> that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top
> .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks
> up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in
> the rain.
>
> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass
> ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked
> leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are
> equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the
> stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a
> stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and
> down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the
> top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new
> jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round?
> Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know
> these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
>
> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off
> for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's
> not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
> _______________________________________________
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<div dir=3D"auto">Very frustrating=C2=A0indeed.<div dir=3D"auto">I would co=
mment that I don&#39;t believe that the needle is really meant to be a &quo=
t;shut off&quot; valve as there is always a tiny annular gap between it and=
 the jet. I presume that with the suction chamber and piston removed the fu=
el level is observed to be at least 1/8&quot; below the top of the jet.</di=
v><div dir=3D"auto">I=C2=A0 can assure you that when everything is correct =
they don&#39;t leak.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</=
div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir=3D"=
ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun., Dec. 22, 2024, 4:11 p.m. Hank Leach via =
Healeys, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
et</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margi=
n:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div>
<div>=C2=A0I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear c=
arburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple desi=
gn, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of=
 center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8&quot;-that would=
 allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.=C2=A0
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean=
 and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center =
jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another=
 4 hour job.=C2=A0 Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.=C2=
=A0 Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many t=
imes-that&#39;s not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking=
.=C2=A0 I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this=
 is a British Car.=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with =
carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That&#39;s t=
wo places checked (these are unfortunately &quot;new&quot; parts) Now the n=
ext leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new par=
ts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which=
 are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the sam=
e at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testin=
g stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done out=
side in the rain.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don&#39;t-- I prefer the simp=
le brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forke=
d leg-also new, and set to 7/16&quot; or MORE. With covers off, both bowls =
are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by =
the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows t=
o a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!=C2=A0 Fuel is going=
 out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to me=
asure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can&#39;t m=
easure the new jet but its stamped &quot;9&quot; Maybe stick in a number dr=
ill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total o=
n them. As far as I know these are &quot;genuine SU&quot; parts-not Moss In=
dia knockoffs.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb of=
f for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That&#=
39;s not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Ha=
nk</div>
</div>
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From: richard mayor <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 14:23:26 -0800

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Hank,

If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the =
carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.  Not =
from the overflow tube on the float chamber. I=E2=80=99ll proceed with =
this assumption.

The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float =
chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float =
level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet before the =
needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your =
float level is set too high.  You need to close the float needle valve =
with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try =
1/2=E2=80=9D and see if that stops the flow.  But then you said you =
tried different settings.=20

Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the =
way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. Polish =
the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is =
not allowing the needle to move feely into it=E2=80=99s seat.  I think =
that=E2=80=99s where the problem is.=20

Richard Mayor
[email-masked]

> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28=E2=80=AFPM, Hank Leach via Healeys =
<[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear =
carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple =
design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is =
out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that =
would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.=20=

> =20
> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean =
and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and =
center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel =
lines-another 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the =
same time.  Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.=20
> =20
> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many =
times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not =
leaking.  I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, =
this is a British Car.=20
> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with =
carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's =
two places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next =
leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new =
parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs =
which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about =
the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is =
all testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so =
best done outside in the rain.
> =20
> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple =
brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by =
forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both =
bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can =
push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast =
then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  =
Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. =
Im tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really =
at .089. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a =
number drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 =
miles total on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not =
Moss India knockoffs.
> =20
> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb =
off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. =
That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic =
floats...Hank
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
>=20
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>=20

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	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: =
after-white-space;">Hank,<div><br></div><div>If I read your post =
correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the carburetor into the =
intake manifold and then out the drain tube. &nbsp;Not from the overflow =
tube on the float chamber. I=E2=80=99ll proceed with this =
assumption.</div><div><br></div><div>The level of fuel at the jet is the =
same level as that in the float chamber. That is the way these SU carbs =
are designed. That is why float level is so important. &nbsp;If fuel is =
flowing out of &nbsp;the jet before the needle valve shuts off the fuel =
supply at the float chamber then your float level is set too high. =
&nbsp;You need to close the float needle valve with the float at a lower =
level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2=E2=80=9D and see if =
that stops the flow. &nbsp;But then you said you tried different =
settings.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Is there an obstruction that is =
preventing the float from rising all the way to the top to close the =
needle valve? &nbsp;Try a different float. Polish the post. &nbsp;Is =
there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is not allowing =
the needle to move feely into it=E2=80=99s seat. &nbsp;I think that=E2=80=99=
s where the problem is.&nbsp;</div><div><br =
id=3D"lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage"><div>
<div>Richard =
Mayor</div><div>[email-masked]</div><div><br></div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">

</div>
<div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28=E2=80=AF=
PM, Hank Leach via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div><div>
<div>&nbsp;I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the =
rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very =
simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the =
jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about =
1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow =
drain tube.&nbsp;
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and =
clean and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and =
center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel =
lines-another 4 hour job.&nbsp; Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at =
the same time.&nbsp; Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again =
leaking.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced =
many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not =
leaking.&nbsp; I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then =
again, this is a British Car.&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid =
with carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. =
That's two places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the =
next leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new =
parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs =
which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about =
the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is =
all testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so =
best done outside in the rain.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the =
simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied =
by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both =
bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can =
push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast =
then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not =
do!&nbsp; Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool =
drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they =
are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe =
stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have =
about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" =
parts-not Moss India knockoffs.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb =
off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. =
That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic =
floats...Hank</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>Support Team.Net =
&nbsp;$12.75<br><br>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys<br><br>[email-masked]<br>htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br><br=
></div></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 22:53:12 +0000

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	boundary="_000_PH0PR20MB444513B43A2DE1A72FA219DCA5012PH0PR20MB4445namp_"

--_000_PH0PR20MB444513B43A2DE1A72FA219DCA5012PH0PR20MB4445namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hank, Mike is correct that the jet needle is not intended to be a stopper f=
or the jet. In fact in theory it shouldn=92t even touch it. Considering tha=
t this appears to be a chronic problem on only one carburetor and with all =
you have attempted to correct it, it seems to me the problem is a defect in=
 the carburetor itself. If the needle valve and float are in good condition=
 and in adjustment the fuel level in the bowl and at the venturi bridge wil=
l never be high enough to run out of the jet. It seems that there is a flaw=
 or a crack in or around the needle valve orifice that is allowing fuel to =
leak past the needle valve. Have you tried switching out the fuel bowl lid?=
 Hope this helps. Good luck.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 554

________________________________
From: Healeys <[email-masked]> on behalf of Hank Leach via =
Healeys <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 8:28 PM
To: Healey team <[email-masked]>
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

 I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor =
overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but mu=
st be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center an=
d piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to =
run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.

No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and =
replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet..=
.now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 ho=
ur job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on key=
- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.

I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many times-=
that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.  I just=
 cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a British =
Car.
Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb =
cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places=
 checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be b=
etween the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needle=
s are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am=
 tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but =
ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the gar=
age and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.

I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass =
ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-als=
o new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally ab=
out 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but =
its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... bu=
t then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and down the d=
rain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of th=
e needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but =
its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you=
, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these ar=
e "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.

I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off for=
 that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not =
the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank

--_000_PH0PR20MB444513B43A2DE1A72FA219DCA5012PH0PR20MB4445namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DWindows-1=
252">
</head>
<body>
<div><br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
Hank, Mike is correct that the jet needle is not intended to be a stopper f=
or the jet. In fact in theory it shouldn=92t even touch it. Considering tha=
t this appears to be a chronic problem on only one carburetor and with all =
you have attempted to correct it,
 it seems to me the problem is a defect in the carburetor itself. If the ne=
edle valve and float are in good condition and in adjustment the fuel level=
 in the bowl and at the venturi bridge will never be high enough to run out=
 of the jet. It seems that there
 is a flaw or a crack in or around the needle valve orifice that is allowin=
g fuel to leak past the needle valve. Have you tried switching out the fuel=
 bowl lid? Hope this helps. Good luck.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
BN1 554</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; bac=
kground-color: transparent;">
<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys &lt;healeys-b=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys &lt;healeys@a=
utox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 22, 2024 8:28 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healey team &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear c=
arburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple desi=
gn, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of=
 center and piston is sticking up above
 the flat about 1/8&quot;-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area a=
nd out overflow drain tube.&nbsp;
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean=
 and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center =
jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another=
 4 hour job.&nbsp; Both carb pistons
 drop with a clunk at the same time.&nbsp; Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-=
overflow again leaking.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many t=
imes-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.&nb=
sp; I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is =
a British Car.&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with =
carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two p=
laces checked (these are unfortunately &quot;new&quot; parts) Now the next =
leak could be between the needle and jet if
 not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i =
also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually bo=
th needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid =
range. Problem is all testing stinks
 up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in =
the rain.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple b=
rass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked le=
g-also new, and set to 7/16&quot; or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are =
equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure
 is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when=
 key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it sh=
ould not do!&nbsp; Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming=
 pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure
 the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure th=
e new jet but its stamped &quot;9&quot; Maybe stick in a number drill to se=
e if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. A=
s far as I know these are &quot;genuine SU&quot; parts-not
 Moss India knockoffs.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb of=
f for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's=
 not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank</=
div>
</div>
</div>
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