Subject: Re: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats

From: Harold Manifold <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2024 08:35:56 -0800

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Michael,

The fail safe feature might never come into play in the life of the
thermostat. More important features for a Healey thermostat is a high flow
rating and bleed hole. These are features that will benefit the cooling
system on every drive.

Harold

On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 5:35=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.=
com>
wrote:

> I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
> "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fai=
l
> in the open mode.  What is the collective experience with these?
>
> TIA--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Michael,<div><br></div><div>The fail safe feature might ne=
ver come into play in the life of the thermostat. More important=C2=A0featu=
res for a Healey thermostat is a high flow rating and bleed hole. These are=
 features that will benefit=C2=A0the cooling system on every drive.</div><d=
iv><br></div><div>Harold</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quo=
te_container"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at=
 5:35=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
m">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gma=
il_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,2=
04,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" sty=
le=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I need=C2=A0to replace my thermostat and I see =
a lot of negative reviews for &quot;Failsafe&quot; units--sold my Moss and =
many others--which are designed to fail in the open mode.=C2=A0 What is the=
 collective experience with these?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"c=
olor:rgb(51,51,255)">TIA--Michael Oritt</div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
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</blockquote></div>

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_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2024 12:20:59 -0500

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Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on
occasion.
The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in traffic
on the highway after running at high speed.
On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the temperature
usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermostat
although the warm up is a little slower.
The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system
seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur.
I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 degrees
C  higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type
thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the
thermostat is fully open.

M

On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.=
com>

l
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sa=
ns-serif;font-size:small">Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overh=
eating problems on occasion.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"fon=
t-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">The worst situation is when stop=
ping for gas or becoming stalled in traffic on the highway after running at=
 high speed.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,s=
ans-serif;font-size:small"></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font=
-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">On those occasions when I do driv=
e in cooler temperatures the temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C =
(167 - 176 F) even without a thermostat although the warm up is a little sl=
ower. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,san=
s-serif;font-size:small">The advantage of running at this cooler temperatur=
e is that the system seems to have a larger &quot;reserve&quot; when the ab=
ove traffic problems occur.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font=
-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">I found that the indicated temper=
ature (which is accurate), runs 5 degrees C=C2=A0 higher even when using a =
165 degree bellows or wax pellet type thermostat. I suspect this is due to =
the slight restriction even when the thermostat is fully open.</div><div cl=
ass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small=
"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-se=
rif;font-size:small"></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-famil=
y:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmai=
l_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat=
, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:micha=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockq=
uote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1p=
x solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I need=C2=A0to replace my ther=
mostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for &quot;Failsafe&quot; units--=
sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail in the open mode.=
=C2=A0 What is the collective experience with these?</div><div class=3D"gma=
il_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_de=
fault" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">TIA--Michael Oritt</div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"h=
ttp://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
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eam.net</a><br>
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</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

--===============5963313919293571656==--

---

From: Roger Grace <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2024 08:21:40 -0800

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Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was
working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars.
Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery
tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a
relatively simple project and works well.
I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches :
WT - Smiths std gauge
OT- oil temp at filter
EC - engine compartment near carb intakes
TH - top hose water temp
Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.
5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched;
160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold
have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.
Most interesting observations are:
Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at least 30
min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens
TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading
EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we
under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engine
block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal
obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help -
hence the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for
competition cars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too
rich for the inlet air.
Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but
seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is really
good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.
Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an
obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling.
Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.
rg

On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail=
.com>
wrote:

> The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in
> traffic on the highway after running at high speed.
> I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 degree=
s
> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmai=
l.com>
>> "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fa=
il
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000347996062a7f362d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when=
 the engine was working hard with increased losses is the worst situation f=
or our cars. Another technique to help the &quot;reserve&quot; is to instal=
l an overflow recovery tank that ensures you start off with a full header t=
ank. This is a relatively simple project and works well.</div><div>I am a b=
it of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches :<br></div><d=
iv>WT - Smiths std gauge<br></div><div>OT- oil temp at filter</div><div>EC =
- engine compartment near carb intakes</div><div>TH - top hose water temp<b=
r></div><div>Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.<br><=
/div><div>5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually sw=
itched; 160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Ha=
rold have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.<br></div><div>Most =
interesting observations are:</div><div>Oil takes longer than we think to g=
et close to operating temp at least 30 min but depends on ambient.Often lon=
g after the stat. opens<br></div><div>TH is generally 10F lower than the WT=
 reading</div><div>EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. =
rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on =
the actual engine block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk=
 of metal obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan wo=
uld help - hence the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out f=
or competition cars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too =
rich for the inlet air.</div><div>Use the EWP when approaching traffic as a=
bove - does not reduce temp, but seems to prevent further increases. Import=
ant to anticipate. EWP is really good for controlling heat soak after cutti=
ng the engine.<br></div><div>Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as=
 no real benefit and an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors a=
re important<br></div><div>Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and=
 block cooling.</div><div>Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate t=
o when driving.<br></div><div>rg<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><di=
v><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quo=
te"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42=E2=
=80=AFAM Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" targ=
et=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px soli=
d rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">Like most 10=
0 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on occasion.</div><div=
 class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:sm=
all">The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in tr=
affic on the highway after running at high speed.</div><div class=3D"gmail_=
default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:sma=
ll">On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the temperatu=
re usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermosta=
t although the warm up is a little slower. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_de=
fault" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">The advantage=
 of running at this cooler temperature is that the system seems to have a l=
arger &quot;reserve&quot; when the above traffic problems occur.</div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:sma=
ll">I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 degr=
ees C=C2=A0 higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type =
thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the t=
hermostat is fully open.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-fa=
mily:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">M=
<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gm=
ail_attr">On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
om</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margi=
n:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex=
"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,25=
5)">I need=C2=A0to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative review=
s for &quot;Failsafe&quot; units--sold my Moss and many others--which are d=
esigned to fail in the open mode.=C2=A0 What is the collective experience w=
ith these?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"=
><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">TIA-=
-Michael Oritt</div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"h=
ttp://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a><br>
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r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
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s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
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ttp://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
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[email-masked]

--===============3949433214403681761==--

---

From: Al Fuller <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2024 10:12:45 -0800

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Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the information
is displayed?

________________
Sent from my phone
Best Regards,
Al Fuller

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30=E2=80=AFAM Roger Grace <[email-masked]> wrot=
e:

> Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recover=
y
> under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engin=
e
> obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help=
 -
> seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is reall=
y
> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gma=
il.com>
>> On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the temperatur=
e
>> usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermosta=
t
>> I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5
>> degrees C  higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet typ=
e
>> thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when th=
e
>> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gma=
il.com>
>>> "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to f=
ail
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000e34176062a80c29e
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div>Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures o=
f how the information is displayed?</div><div><br></div><div data-smartmail=
=3D"gmail_signature">________________<br>Sent from my phone <br>Best Regard=
s,<br>Al Fuller</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_contai=
ner"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30=E2=80=
=AFAM Roger Grace &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">roggrace@telus.=
net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"marg=
in:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><div>Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was =
working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars. Ano=
ther technique to help the &quot;reserve&quot; is to install an overflow re=
covery tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a r=
elatively simple project and works well.</div><div>I am a bit of a temp nut=
. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches :<br></div><div>WT - Smiths s=
td gauge<br></div><div>OT- oil temp at filter</div><div>EC - engine compart=
ment near carb intakes</div><div>TH - top hose water temp<br></div><div>Inp=
ut ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.<br></div><div>5 Blad=
e TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched; 160F the=
rmostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold have 2 x 3/=
16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.<br></div><div>Most interesting obse=
rvations are:</div><div>Oil takes longer than we think to get close to oper=
ating temp at least 30 min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat=
. opens<br></div><div>TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading</div><d=
iv>EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that w=
e under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engin=
e block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal obstru=
cts and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help - hence=
 the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for competition c=
ars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too rich for the inl=
et air.</div><div>Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not =
reduce temp, but seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipat=
e. EWP is really good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.<b=
r></div><div>Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit=
 and an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important<br>=
</div><div>Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling.<=
/div><div>Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.<=
br></div><div>rg<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div=
><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"=
ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42=E2=80=AFAM Michael S=
alter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote=
 class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px so=
lid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail=
_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">Like most =
100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on occasion.</div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:=
small">The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in =
traffic on the highway after running at high speed.</div><div class=3D"gmai=
l_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"></div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:s=
mall">On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the tempera=
ture usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermos=
tat although the warm up is a little slower. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_=
default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">The advanta=
ge of running at this cooler temperature is that the system seems to have a=
 larger &quot;reserve&quot; when the above traffic problems occur.</div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:s=
mall">I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 de=
grees C=C2=A0 higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet typ=
e thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the=
 thermostat is fully open.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-=
family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defa=
ult" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"></div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">=
M<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_attr">On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt &lt;<a hre=
f=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">m=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_q=
uote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,2=
04);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I need=C2=A0to replace my thermostat and I see a =
lot of negative reviews for &quot;Failsafe&quot; units--sold my Moss and ma=
ny others--which are designed to fail in the open mode.=C2=A0 What is the c=
ollective experience with these?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255)">TIA--Michael Oritt</div></div>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Bob Spidell via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2024 16:59:13 -0800

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re: "EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks 
that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the 
actual engine block surface"

I don't underestimate it. Both my Healeys, BN2/100M and BJ8, behave 
exactly the same: On cool days--70degF ambient or less--the engines will 
not reach thermostat set point (180) when cruising. Both heat up when 
sitting at idle. Both run at 180 or slightly above on warmer days, but 
start to heat up quickly at idle and can go to 212. I can only attribute 
the difference to airflow temp.

On 12/30/2024 10:12 AM, Al Fuller wrote:
> Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the 
> information is displayed?
>
> ________________
> Sent from my phone
> Best Regards,
> Al Fuller
>
> On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30 AM Roger Grace <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>     Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine
>     was working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for
>     our cars. Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an
>     overflow recovery tank that ensures you start off with a full
>     header tank. This is a relatively simple project and works well.
>     5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually
>     switched; 160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad
>     recovery. As per Harold have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL
>     finned sump.
>     Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at
>     least 30 min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens
>     EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks
>     that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on
>     the actual engine block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a
>     big chunk of metal obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if
>     an extractor fan would help - hence the louvres on the hood and
>     sides to get the hot air out for competition cars. My car runs
>     badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too rich for the inlet air.
>     Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce
>     temp, but seems to prevent further increases. Important to
>     anticipate. EWP is really good for controlling heat soak after
>     cutting the engine.
>     Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and
>     an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
>     On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42 AM Michael Salter
>     <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>         Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating
>         problems on occasion.
>         The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming
>         stalled in traffic on the highway after running at high speed.
>         On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the
>         temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F)
>         even without a thermostat although the warm up is a little
>         slower.
>         The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that
>         the system seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above
>         traffic problems occur.
>         I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate),
>         runs 5 degrees C  higher even when using a 165 degree bellows
>         or wax pellet type thermostat. I suspect this is due to the
>         slight restriction even when the thermostat is fully open.
>
>         M
>
>         On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32 AM Michael Oritt
>         <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>             I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of
>             negative reviews for "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and
>             many others--which are designed to fail in the open mode. 
>             What is the collective experience with these?
>
>             TIA--Michael Oritt
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>

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<!DOCTYPE html>
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  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    re: "EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg
    thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow
    on the actual engine block surface"<br>
    <br>
    I don't underestimate it. Both my Healeys, BN2/100M and BJ8, behave
    exactly the same: On cool days--70degF ambient or less--the engines
    will not reach thermostat set point (180) when cruising. Both heat
    up when sitting at idle. Both run at 180 or slightly above on warmer
    days, but start to heat up quickly at idle and can go to 212. I can
    only attribute the difference to airflow temp.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/30/2024 10:12 AM, Al Fuller
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="auto">
        <div>Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how
          the information is displayed?</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div data-smartmail="gmail_signature">________________<br>
          Sent from my phone <br>
          Best Regards,<br>
          Al Fuller</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30 AM
          Roger Grace &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]"
            moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
          <div dir="ltr">
            <div>Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when
              the engine was working hard with increased losses is the
              worst situation for our cars. Another technique to help
              the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery tank that
              ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a
              relatively simple project and works well.</div>
            <div>I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via
              multiplexed switches :<br>
            </div>
            <div>WT - Smiths std gauge<br>
            </div>
            <div>OT- oil temp at filter</div>
            <div>EC - engine compartment near carb intakes</div>
            <div>TH - top hose water temp<br>
            </div>
            <div>Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for
              interest.<br>
            </div>
            <div>5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump -
              manually switched; 160F thermostat - agree with Michael
              above; rad recovery. As per Harold have 2 x 3/16 holes in
              thermostat; AL finned sump.<br>
            </div>
            <div>Most interesting observations are:</div>
            <div>Oil takes longer than we think to get close to
              operating temp at least 30 min but depends on
              ambient.Often long after the stat. opens<br>
            </div>
            <div>TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading</div>
            <div>EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes.
              rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of
              cruising airflow on the actual engine block surface.
              Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal
              obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor
              fan would help - hence the louvres on the hood and sides
              to get the hot air out for competition cars. My car runs
              badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too rich for the
              inlet air.</div>
            <div>Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does
              not reduce temp, but seems to prevent further increases.
              Important to anticipate. EWP is really good for
              controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.<br>
            </div>
            <div>Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real
              benefit and an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet
              deflectors are important<br>
            </div>
            <div>Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block
              cooling.</div>
            <div>Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when
              driving.<br>
            </div>
            <div>rg<br>
            </div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
          </div>
          <br>
          <div class="gmail_quote">
            <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at
              9:42 AM Michael Salter &lt;<a
                href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
                rel="noreferrer" moz-do-not-send="true"
                class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
              wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
              <div dir="ltr">
                <div class="gmail_default"
                  style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">Like
                  most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating
                  problems on occasion.</div>
                <div class="gmail_default"
                  style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">The
                  worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming
                  stalled in traffic on the highway after running at
                  high speed.</div>
                <div class="gmail_default"
                  style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">On
                  those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures
                  the temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167
                  - 176 F) even without a thermostat although the warm
                  up is a little slower. <br>
                </div>
                <div class="gmail_default"
                  style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">The
                  advantage of running at this cooler temperature is
                  that the system seems to have a larger "reserve" when
                  the above traffic problems occur.</div>
                <div class="gmail_default"
                  style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">I
                  found that the indicated temperature (which is
                  accurate), runs 5 degrees C  higher even when using a
                  165 degree bellows or wax pellet type thermostat. I
                  suspect this is due to the slight restriction even
                  when the thermostat is fully open.</div>
                <div class="gmail_default"
                  style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
                </div>
                <div class="gmail_default"
                  style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
                </div>
              </div>
              <br>
              <div class="gmail_quote">
                <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 28, 2024
                  at 8:32 AM Michael Oritt &lt;<a
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                    target="_blank" rel="noreferrer"
                    moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                  wrote:<br>
                </div>
                <blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                  <div dir="ltr">
                    <div class="gmail_default"
                      style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">I need to replace my
                      thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
                      "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many
                      others--which are designed to fail in the open
                      mode.  What is the collective experience with
                      these?</div>
                    <div class="gmail_default"
                      style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
                    </div>
                    <div class="gmail_default"
                      style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">TIA--Michael Oritt</div>
                  </div>
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      <pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">_______________________________________________

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---

From: Robert Markovich via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2024 01:46:12 +0000 (UTC)

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If there were room for a full radiator shroud,=C2=A0that would help. Otherw=
ise, without concentrated airflow, yes, Healeys (and other vintage cars) ar=
e inclined to start heating up when warm and idling. The cure: an auxiliary=
 electric pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator. Simply switch it on =
when you know you=E2=80=99ll be sitting in traffic or waiting to get into a=
 show. I=E2=80=99ve also installed an alloy radiator, upgraded water pump, =
160-degree F thermostat,=C2=A0and Texas Cooler fan, but the auxiliary fan i=
s the trick.=C2=A0

Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

On Monday, December 30, 2024, 8:14 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys@aut=
ox.team.net> wrote:

 re: "EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks tha=
t we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual en=
gine block surface"
=20
 I don't underestimate it. Both my Healeys, BN2/100M and BJ8, behave exactl=
y the same: On cool days--70degF ambient or less--the engines will not reac=
h thermostat set point (180) when cruising. Both heat up when sitting at id=
le. Both run at 180 or slightly above on warmer days, but start to heat up =
quickly at idle and can go to 212. I can only attribute the difference to a=
irflow temp.
=20
=20
 On 12/30/2024 10:12 AM, Al Fuller wrote:
 =20
=20
 Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the information =
is displayed?=20
  ________________
 Sent from my phone=20
 Best Regards,
 Al Fuller =20
  On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30=E2=80=AFAM Roger Grace <[email-masked]> wr=
ote:
 =20
  Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was work=
ing hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars. Another=
 technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery tank th=
at ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a relatively simp=
le project and works well. I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via=
 multiplexed switches :
  WT - Smiths std gauge
  OT- oil temp at filter EC - engine compartment near carb intakes TH - top=
 hose water temp
  Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.
  5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched; =
160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold hav=
e 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.
  Most interesting observations are: Oil takes longer than we think to get =
close to operating temp at least 30 min but depends on ambient.Often long a=
fter the stat. opens
  TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading EC and OT rise rapidly when=
 no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling e=
ffect of cruising airflow on the actual engine block surface. Airflow is so=
mewhat limited as a big chunk of metal obstructs and no easy exit. Often wo=
ndered if an extractor fan would help - hence the louvres on the hood and s=
ides to get the hot air out for competition cars. My car runs badly when EC=
 is above 155F - becomes too rich for the inlet air. Use the EWP when appro=
aching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but seems to prevent furthe=
r increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is really good for controlling he=
at soak after cutting the engine.
  Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an obs=
truction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
  Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling. Monitorin=
g OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.
  rg
 =20
 =20
 =20
 =20
 =20
  =20
  On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gma=
il.com> wrote:
 =20
  Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on occas=
ion. The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in tr=
affic on the highway after running at high speed. On those occasions when I=
 do drive in cooler temperatures the temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 de=
grees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermostat although the warm up is a l=
ittle slower.=20
  The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system se=
ems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur. I fou=
nd that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 degrees C=C2=
=A0 higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type thermost=
at. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the thermosta=
t is fully open.=20
  M
  =20
  On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmai=
l.com> wrote:
 =20
  I need=C2=A0to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews =
for "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to f=
ail in the open mode.=C2=A0 What is the collective experience with these?=
=20
  TIA--Michael Oritt  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75
=20
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve/healeys
=20
 [email-masked]
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
=20
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaels=
[email-masked]
=20
=20
  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75
=20
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve/healeys
=20
 [email-masked]
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
=20
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace=
@telus.net
=20
=20
  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75
=20
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve/healeys
=20
 [email-masked]
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
=20
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller=
[email-masked]
=20
=20
 =20
  _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.t=
eam.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys@auto=
x.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage:=
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e/healeys

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

------=_Part_8332123_9000283.1735609572430
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microso=
ft-com:vml" xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"><head><!--[=
if gte mso 9]><xml><o:OfficeDocumentSettings><o:AllowPNG/><o:PixelsPerInch>=
96</o:PixelsPerInch></o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--></head><bo=
dy>
If there were room for a full radiator shroud,&nbsp;that would help. Otherw=
ise, without concentrated airflow, yes, Healeys (and other vintage cars) ar=
e inclined to start heating up when warm and idling. The cure: an auxiliary=
 electric pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator. Simply switch it on =
when you know you=E2=80=99ll be sitting in traffic or waiting to get into a=
 show. I=E2=80=99ve also installed an alloy radiator, upgraded water pump, =
160-degree F thermostat,&nbsp;and Texas Cooler fan, but the auxiliary fan i=
s the trick.&nbsp;<br><br><br><div class=3D"yahoo-signature"><a style=3D"fo=
nt-size:12px" href=3D"https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-=
video/id646100661">Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS</a><br></div><br><=
p class=3D"yahoo-quoted-begin" style=3D"font-size: 15px; color: rgb(132, 11=
5, 255); padding-top: 15px; margin-top: 0px;">On Monday, December 30, 2024,=
 8:14 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</p>=
<blockquote class=3D"iosymail"><div id=3D"yiv7588010989"><div>
    re: "EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg
    thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow
    on the actual engine block surface"<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    I don't underestimate it. Both my Healeys, BN2/100M and BJ8, behave
    exactly the same: On cool days--70degF ambient or less--the engines
    will not reach thermostat set point (180) when cruising. Both heat
    up when sitting at idle. Both run at 180 or slightly above on warmer
    days, but start to heat up quickly at idle and can go to 212. I can
    only attribute the difference to airflow temp.<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    <div id=3D"yiv7588010989yqtfd47139" class=3D"yiv7588010989yqt4756003637=
"><div class=3D"yiv7588010989moz-cite-prefix">On 12/30/2024 10:12 AM, Al Fu=
ller
      wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
      </blockquote></div></div><div id=3D"yiv7588010989yqtfd61441" class=3D=
"yiv7588010989yqt4756003637"></div><div><div id=3D"yiv7588010989yqtfd14688"=
 class=3D"yiv7588010989yqt4756003637"><div>
        <div>Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how
          the information is displayed?</div>
        <div><br clear=3D"none">
        </div>
        <div>________________<br clear=3D"none">
          Sent from my phone <br clear=3D"none">
          Best Regards,<br clear=3D"none">
          Al Fuller</div>
      </div>
      <br clear=3D"none">
      <div class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_quote yiv7588010989gmail_quote_conta=
iner">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, =
2024, 8:30=E2=80=AFAM
          Roger Grace &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"=
rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailt=
o:[email-masked]" class=3D"yiv7588010989moz-txt-link-freetext">roggrace=
@telus.net</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
        </div>
        <blockquote style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;p=
adding-left:1ex;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_quote">
          <div dir=3D"ltr">
            <div>Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when
              the engine was working hard with increased losses is the
              worst situation for our cars. Another technique to help
              the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery tank that
              ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a
              relatively simple project and works well.</div>
            <div>I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via
              multiplexed switches :<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div>WT - Smiths std gauge<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div>OT- oil temp at filter</div>
            <div>EC - engine compartment near carb intakes</div>
            <div>TH - top hose water temp<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div>Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for
              interest.<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div>5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump -
              manually switched; 160F thermostat - agree with Michael
              above; rad recovery. As per Harold have 2 x 3/16 holes in
              thermostat; AL finned sump.<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div>Most interesting observations are:</div>
            <div>Oil takes longer than we think to get close to
              operating temp at least 30 min but depends on
              ambient.Often long after the stat. opens<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div>TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading</div>
            <div>EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes.
              rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of
              cruising airflow on the actual engine block surface.
              Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal
              obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor
              fan would help - hence the louvres on the hood and sides
              to get the hot air out for competition cars. My car runs
              badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too rich for the
              inlet air.</div>
            <div>Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does
              not reduce temp, but seems to prevent further increases.
              Important to anticipate. EWP is really good for
              controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.<br clear=3D"n=
one">
            </div>
            <div>Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real
              benefit and an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet
              deflectors are important<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div>Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block
              cooling.</div>
            <div>Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when
              driving.<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div>rg<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div><br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div><br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div><br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div><br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <div><br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
          </div>
          <br clear=3D"none">
          <div class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_quote">
            <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec =
28, 2024 at
              9:42=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopene=
r noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" tar=
get=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"yiv75880109=
89moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
              wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px s=
olid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_quote"=
              <div dir=3D"ltr">
                <div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">Like
                  most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating
                  problems on occasion.</div>
                <div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">The
                  worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming
                  stalled in traffic on the highway after running at
                  high speed.</div>
                <div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">On
                  those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures
                  the temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167
                  - 176 F) even without a thermostat although the warm
                  up is a little slower. <br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">The
                  advantage of running at this cooler temperature is
                  that the system seems to have a larger "reserve" when
                  the above traffic problems occur.</div>
                <div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">I
                  found that the indicated temperature (which is
                  accurate), runs 5 degrees C&nbsp; higher even when using =
a
                  165 degree bellows or wax pellet type thermostat. I
                  suspect this is due to the slight restriction even
                  when the thermostat is fully open.</div>
                <div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default"><br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">M<br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
              </div>
              <br clear=3D"none">
              <div class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_quote">
                <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_attr">On Sat, =
Dec 28, 2024
                  at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow n=
oopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
m" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"yiv75=
88010989moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                  wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1=
px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_qu=
ote">
                  <div dir=3D"ltr">
                    <div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255);" class=3D"yiv758801=
0989gmail_default">I need&nbsp;to replace my
                      thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
                      "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many
                      others--which are designed to fail in the open
                      mode.&nbsp; What is the collective experience with
                      these?</div>
                    <div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255);" class=3D"yiv758801=
0989gmail_default"><br clear=3D"none">
                    </div>
                    <div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255);" class=3D"yiv758801=
0989gmail_default">TIA--Michael Oritt</div>
                  </div>
                  _______________________________________________<br clear=
=3D"none">
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989yqtfd51100" class=3D"yiv7588010989yqt4756003637">_______________________=
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rect" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/heale=
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56003637">
   =20
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2024 04:17:32 +0000

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