Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

From: Hank Leach via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 20:28:57 +0000 ha2otAYpmgJwB8QlSoLK3jr8QaZ4lk/H4KTKOOrtCH+th47ql602AfW2wOdJiqV+iIMnilET56qhqA==

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<div>
<div>&nbsp;I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the =
rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very =
simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the =
jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about =
1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain=
 tube.&nbsp;
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove =
carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and gland =
washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re =
mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.&nbsp; Both carb=
 pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.&nbsp; Turn on key- fuel pump =
clicking-overflow again leaking.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many =
times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.=
&nbsp; I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this =
is a British Car.&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it=
 is dry. I filled the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle =
valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked (these are =
unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle =
and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as =
specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to =
try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a =
bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the garage and =
creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I =
prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is =
applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, =
both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it =
can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast =
then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!&nbsp; =
Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im =
tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089=
. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number =
drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total=
 on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India =
knockoffs.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I really thought that the centering=
 was the issue and took the carb off for that reason which cured the =
drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions?=
 Someone says use plastic floats...Hank</div>
</div>

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From: Hank Leach via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 22:31:56 +0000 JhHY36czgZ1f58P/+TONwC4PaB4UJx6BVjN0aIxKmd1sEaDHtDh8/pGIc16lNNGq2RiLIRaClu5DsfLmQyTOCmsxguCP27/vb6mFHHiBNpduweOM9QUhB2bk

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<div>Michael-yes, by measure the jet bore is to be .090 and the top taper =
of the QW needle is .089 leaving some room for a molecule of fluid. So, =
agree, it never shuts off. However, the drain pipe looks like a faucet =
spewing fuel to the floor. It has to come from somewhere at pressure. Yes, =
very frustrating. Hank<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "Michael =
Salter" &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>To: "Hank Leach" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Cc: "Healey team" &lt;[email-masked].=
net&gt; <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:06 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: =
[Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube </div>
<div>Very frustrating&nbsp;indeed.
<div>I would comment that I don't =
believe that the needle is really meant to be a "shut off" valve as there =
is always a tiny annular gap between it and the jet. I presume that with =
the suction chamber and piston removed the fuel level is observed to be at =
least 1/8" below the top of the jet.</div>
<div>I&nbsp; can assure you that=
 when everything is correct they don't leak.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>M</div>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote =
gmail_quote_container">
<div class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun., Dec. 22, 2024, =
4:11 p.m. Hank Leach via Healeys, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked].=
net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div>
<blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0 0 0 .8ex; border-left: 1px #ccc =
solid; padding-left: 1ex;">
<div>
<div>&nbsp;I have chased the cause of too=
 much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. =
These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be done correctly to =
perform. So I find that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up =
above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area =
and out overflow drain tube.&nbsp;
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean=
 and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center =
jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another=
 4 hour job.&nbsp; Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.=
&nbsp; Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) =
were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they=
 are not leaking.&nbsp; I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but =
then again, this is a British Car.&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with =
carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two =
places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak =
could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .=
090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are =
lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at =
top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing =
stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done =
outside in the rain.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I know some folks like =
Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips =
which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new, and set to =
7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. =
Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct =
pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, =
tick which it should not do!&nbsp; Fuel is going out and down the drain =
tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the =
needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but =
its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you=
, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these =
are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb =
off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. =
That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...=
Hank</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>Suppor=
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From: Hank Leach via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 22:49:47 +0000 jbfGD26f5K3gSuw+/0FcYyJve9X5O5olcM2Yvhsziu2hGoDPskjaKfBFPAdP5T665j+vV7I+vwA2/Z3JWt7lSomNlPw6QjO5CcSgJ2o63mEEvkfRfFYJ1g67

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<div>I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static =
mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston =
removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as =
you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together =
it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was =
made that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I =
cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg =
on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on =
the peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats =
instead of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float and =
needle valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will now =
start leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next=
 year?) to test that theory.<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "richard=
 mayor" &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>To: "Leach Hank" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Cc: "healeys" &lt;[email-masked].=
net&gt; <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: =
[Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube <br>Hank,</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming =
out of the jet in the carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the =
drain tube. &nbsp;Not from the overflow tube on the float chamber. =
I&rsquo;ll proceed with this assumption.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float =
chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float =
level is so important. &nbsp;If fuel is flowing out of &nbsp;the jet before=
 the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your =
float level is set too high. &nbsp;You need to close the float needle valve=
 with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try =
1/2&rdquo; and see if that stops the flow. &nbsp;But then you said you =
tried different settings.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all =
the way to the top to close the needle valve? &nbsp;Try a different float. =
Polish the post. &nbsp;Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the =
casting that is not allowing the needle to move feely into it&rsquo;s seat.=
 &nbsp;I think that&rsquo;s where the problem is.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br id=3D"lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage">
<div>
<div>Richard Mayor</div>
<div>[email-masked]</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div><br>
<blockquote>
<div>On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28=E2=80=AFPM, =
Hank Leach via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the =
rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very =
simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the =
jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about =
1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain=
 tube.&nbsp;
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove =
carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and gland =
washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re =
mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.&nbsp; Both carb=
 pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.&nbsp; Turn on key- fuel pump =
clicking-overflow again leaking.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many =
times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.=
&nbsp; I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this =
is a British Car.&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it=
 is dry. I filled the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle =
valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked (these are =
unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle =
and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as =
specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to =
try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a =
bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the garage and =
creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I =
prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is =
applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, =
both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it =
can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast =
then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!&nbsp; =
Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im =
tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089=
. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number =
drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total=
 on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India =
knockoffs.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I really thought that the centering=
 was the issue and took the carb off for that reason which cured the =
drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions?=
 Someone says use plastic floats...Hank</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>Support Team.Net =
75<br><br>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.=
net/archive/healeys<br><br>[email-masked]<br>http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br><br></div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
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From: Hank Leach via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 23:15:07 +0000 LcyRHSCtubaYFUDbaDeFD52mLVYM1/NSxZGpakFg3+770TDBnrmv5WnA9b+qROUWGTT0Iwvyq09EJu1cFNOFy1C6EhSgN12Fhi8=

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<div>Bill-this car is 588 just 30+ from your car so about the same age =
parts-very old. I just mentioned that I'm swapping the floats and needle =
valves per carb for a test check. The float lids, although the shut off =
point for the incoming fuel, do not affect the fuel going out the bottom of=
 the bowl to the carb body. I have a new NOS body and all new old stock =
gaskets, valves, etc.so I could "build" a new carburetor.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Being as anal as I am, I have put off that thought =
as I was trying to not use replacements but rather all original parts on my=
 car. Yes, some small cracks in that old casting could be the cause. I may =
have to give in and replace the old duffer with the new item in the box. =
Hank<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" &lt;healeys@autox.=
team.net&gt;, &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at =
2:53 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain =
tube </div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; =
font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">Hank, =
Mike is correct that the jet needle is not intended to be a stopper for the=
 jet. In fact in theory it shouldn&rsquo;t even touch it. Considering that =
this appears to be a chronic problem on only one carburetor and with all =
you have attempted to correct it, it seems to me the problem is a defect in=
 the carburetor itself. If the needle valve and float are in good condition=
 and in adjustment the fuel level in the bowl and at the venturi bridge =
will never be high enough to run out of the jet. It seems that there is a =
flaw or a crack in or around the needle valve orifice that is allowing fuel=
 to leak past the needle valve. Have you tried switching out the fuel bowl =
lid? Hope this helps. Good luck.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; =
font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: =
transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: =
inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">Bill =
Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; =
color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">BN1 554</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; =
background-color: transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<hr style=3D"display: =
inline-block; width: 98%;">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg"><strong>From:</strong=
> Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Hank Leach =
via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><strong>Sent:</strong> Sunday=
, December 22, 2024 8:28 PM<br><strong>To:</strong> Healey team =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><strong>Subject:</strong> [Healeys] =
overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
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From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 19:28:41 -0500

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Hank,

I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not 
plastic.  Supposedly unsinkable.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar

On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
> I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static 
> mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston 
> removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or 
> as you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs 
> together it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The 
> suggestion that was made that we really need to have clear plastic 
> float bowls has merit. I cannot tell if the brass float is pushing 
> hard enough to shut off the peg on the valve. When held shut by hand 
> its positive.
> If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on 
> the peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats 
> instead of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float 
> and needle valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one 
> will now start leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a 
> dry day (next year?) to test that theory.
> --------------------
>
> From: "richard mayor" <[email-masked]>
> To: "Leach Hank" <[email-masked]>
> Cc: "healeys" <[email-masked]>
> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
> Hank,
> If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in 
> the carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube. 
>  Not from the overflow tube on the float chamber. I’ll proceed with 
> this assumption.
> The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float 
> chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why 
> float level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet 
> before the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber 
> then your float level is set too high.  You need to close the float 
> needle valve with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th 
> as a guide, try 1/2” and see if that stops the flow.  But then you 
> said you tried different settings.
> Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all 
> the way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. 
> Polish the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the 
> casting that is not allowing the needle to move feely into it’s seat. 
>  I think that’s where the problem is.
>
> Richard Mayor
> [email-masked]
>
>     On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys
>     <[email-masked]> wrote:
>      I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear
>     carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very
>     simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find
>     that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the
>     flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area
>     and out overflow drain tube.
>     No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and
>     clean and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and
>     reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor
>     and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop
>     with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on key- fuel pump
>     clicking-overflow again leaking.
>     I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced
>     many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are
>     not leaking.  I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but
>     then again, this is a British Car.
>     Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid
>     with carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no
>     leaking. That's two places checked (these are unfortunately "new"
>     parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle and jet if
>     not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as
>     specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am
>     tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top
>     .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all
>     testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere
>     so best done outside in the rain.
>     I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the
>     simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is
>     applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With
>     covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure
>     is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump
>     and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick,
>     tick which it should not do! Fuel is going out and down the drain
>     tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top
>     of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure
>     the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to
>     see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total
>     on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss
>     India knockoffs.
>     I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the
>     carb off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally
>     with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says
>     use plastic floats...Hank
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
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    <p>Hank,</p>
    <p>I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber -
      nitrophyl, not plastic.  Supposedly unsinkable.</p>
    <p>Cheers,<br>
    </p>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div>I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from.
        In static mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with
        dashpot and piston removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says
        about 1/8" below jet or as you say equal to float setting).
        However, with key on and carbs together it's a different
        story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was made
        that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit.
        I cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut
        off the peg on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.</div>
      <div> </div>
      <div>If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough
        pressure on the peg to stop the flow. This is why someone
        suggested plastic floats instead of brass. Fuel is the shut off
        mechanism. I have swapped float and needle valves from front to
        rear carb in hopes that the front one will now start leaking.
        That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next
        year?) to test that theory.<br>
        -------------------- <br>
        <br>
        From: "richard mayor" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>
        To: "Leach Hank" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>
        Cc: "healeys" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>
        Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST <br>
        Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube <br>
        Hank,</div>
      <div> </div>
      <div>If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the
        jet in the carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the
        drain tube.  Not from the overflow tube on the float chamber.
        I’ll proceed with this assumption.</div>
      <div> </div>
      <div>The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the
        float chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That
        is why float level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of
         the jet before the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at
        the float chamber then your float level is set too high.  You
        need to close the float needle valve with the float at a lower
        level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2” and see if
        that stops the flow.  But then you said you tried different
        settings. </div>
      <div> </div>
      <div>Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from
        rising all the way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a
        different float. Polish the post.  Is there any wear in the fork
        or pivot in the casting that is not allowing the needle to move
        feely into it’s seat.  I think that’s where the problem is. </div>
      <div><br id="lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage">
        <div>
          <div>Richard Mayor</div>
          <div><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></div>
          <div> </div>
        </div>
        <div><br>
          <blockquote>
            <div>On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys
              <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> wrote:</div>
            <div>
              <div>
                <div> I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting
                  from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years.
                  These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be
                  done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is
                  out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat
                  about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle
                  area and out overflow drain tube. 
                  <div> </div>
                  <div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a
                    4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and gland
                    washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center
                    jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and
                    connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.  Both carb
                    pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on
                    key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking. </div>
                  <div> </div>
                  <div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass)
                    were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No
                    fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.  I just
                    cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then
                    again, this is a British Car. </div>
                </div>
                <div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled
                  the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle
                  valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked
                  (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next
                  leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed
                  off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as
                  specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean
                  that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are
                  about the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter
                  at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the
                  garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best
                  done outside in the rain.</div>
                <div> </div>
                <div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I
                  prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do
                  work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new,
                  and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls
                  are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a
                  thought as it can push by the stops but its the
                  correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to
                  a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do! 
                  Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my
                  swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top
                  of the needles to see if they are really at .089.
                  Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe
                  stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you,
                  these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far
                  as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India
                  knockoffs.</div>
                <div> </div>
                <div>I really thought that the centering was the issue
                  and took the carb off for that reason which cured the
                  drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the
                  problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic
                  floats...Hank</div>
              </div>
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      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Hank Leach via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 00:32:36 +0000 /wCObNuylKVDlkX8iv0TgBx22g01GMcFQZaJPkT+MnrIORm8gsrWfrT/T9xWIo3Gw3k2xCFMdTrKyxEKUEmpBdcMGS3lui07Bos=

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<div>I wish this was electrical and I would probably have it fixed by now, =
but I do like that analogy. This is definitely a defective part and not an =
assembly mess up. Not bragging, but the carbs as assembled, work and have =
been working well...this is just an ongoing issue that I have been dealing =
with and would like to resolve.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>As you say, replace just one item at a time or not know the cause. =
However, I have had these bodies sitting on the shelf, forever.&nbsp; =
&nbsp;Unwrapped them for these pictures and the newsprint is dated 1977! I =
could add the float bowls and piston unit and maybe all would be good, but =
then I would be using new parts and old parts together and not know what =
was the problem. Then too, these are not original to the car, but how much =
longer will I be here to eventually use them? Looking at these does make my=
 mouth water...On a clear day, I will let you know what the test results =
indicate. Hank<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>To: "Hank Leach" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;, =
"Hank Leach via Healeys" &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Sent: December =
22, 2024 at 3:46 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel =
into intake drain tube </div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; =
font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: =
transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: =
inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">Hank, the fuel =
level in the bowl is the same as the level at the bridge. If the fuel level=
 is too high, or if the bowl is overflowing the fuel will also run out of =
the jet. I suspect the casting for the float bowl top, either a crack or a =
damaged thread in the needle valve orifice. Either will cause your symptoms=
.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: =
inherit; background-color: transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; =
background-color: transparent;">Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; =
background-color: transparent;">BN1 554</div>
<hr style=3D"display: =
inline-block; width: 98%;">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg"><strong>From:</strong=
> WILLIAM B LAWRENCE &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><strong>Sent:</strong> =
Sunday, December 22, 2024 11:31 PM<br><strong>To:</strong> Hank Leach =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;; Hank Leach via Healeys &lt;[email-masked].=
net&gt;<br><strong>Subject:</strong> Re: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel =
into intake drain tube
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; =
background-color: transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: =
inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: =
transparent;">Hank, I think replacing one component at a time might get you=
 to a solution faster.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; =
font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: =
transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: =
inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">In a case not =
related I recently spent several days diagnosing a carburetor problem =
(surprisingly not SU) with no progress only to give up and check the =
distributor. My new condenser was bad out of the box. Someone said that 90 =
percent of carburetor problems are electrical. Case in point.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; =
background-color: transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: =
inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: =
transparent;">Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; =
font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">BN1 =
554</div>
<hr style=3D"display: inline-block; width: 98%;">
<div id=3D"x_divRplyFwdMsg"><strong>From:</strong> Hank Leach =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><strong>Sent:</strong> Sunday, December 22, =
2024 11:15 PM<br><strong>To:</strong> WILLIAM B LAWRENCE &lt;ynotink@msn.=
com&gt;; Hank Leach via Healeys &lt;[email-masked].=
net&gt;<br><strong>Subject:</strong> RE: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel =
into intake drain tube
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>Bill-this car is 588 just 30+ from your car so about the same age =
parts-very old. I just mentioned that I'm swapping the floats and needle =
valves per carb for a test check. The float lids, although the shut off =
point for the incoming fuel, do not affect the fuel going out the bottom of=
 the bowl to the carb body. I have a new NOS body and all new old stock =
gaskets, valves, etc.so I could "build" a new carburetor.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Being as anal as I am, I have put off that thought =
as I was trying to not use replacements but rather all original parts on my=
 car. Yes, some small cracks in that old casting could be the cause. I may =
have to give in and replace the old duffer with the new item in the box. =
Hank<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" &lt;healeys@autox.=
team.net&gt;, &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at =
2:53 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain =
tube</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size:=
 inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">Hank, Mike is =
correct that the jet needle is not intended to be a stopper for the jet. In=
 fact in theory it shouldn&rsquo;t even touch it. Considering that this =
appears to be a chronic problem on only one carburetor and with all you =
have attempted to correct it, it seems to me the problem is a defect in the=
 carburetor itself. If the needle valve and float are in good condition and=
 in adjustment the fuel level in the bowl and at the venturi bridge will =
never be high enough to run out of the jet. It seems that there is a flaw =
or a crack in or around the needle valve orifice that is allowing fuel to =
leak past the needle valve. Have you tried switching out the fuel bowl lid?=
 Hope this helps. Good luck.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; =
font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: =
transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: =
inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">Bill =
Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; =
color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">BN1 554</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; =
background-color: transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<hr style=3D"display: =
inline-block; width: 98%;">
<div id=3D"x_x_divRplyFwdMsg"><strong>From:</st=
rong> Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Hank =
Leach via Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><strong>Sent:</strong> =
Sunday, December 22, 2024 8:28 PM<br><strong>To:</strong> Healey team =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><strong>Subject:</strong> [Healeys] =
overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the =
rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very =
simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the =
jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about =
1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain=
 tube.&nbsp;
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove =
carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and gland =
washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re =
mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.&nbsp; Both carb=
 pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.&nbsp; Turn on key- fuel pump =
clicking-overflow again leaking.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many =
times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.=
&nbsp; I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this =
is a British Car.&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it=
 is dry. I filled the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle =
valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked (these are =
unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle =
and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as =
specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to =
try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a =
bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the garage and =
creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I =
prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is =
applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, =
both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it =
can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast =
then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!&nbsp; =
Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im =
tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089=
. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number =
drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total=
 on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India =
knockoffs.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I really thought that the centering=
 was the issue and took the carb off for that reason which cured the =
drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions?=
 Someone says use plastic floats...Hank</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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From: Hank Leach via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 01:59:48 +0000 xwCqwFI+dtcYsbTTbrOVDgARNjSbx2ChDLPaDAHyUILMiPYzea4cdBCGXRnyauExPgPKF8pzGiqoqG3cszLhDAyLqo7OLGOvycsmEZ3WDQEO47lmxHSl0wtj ErUMQJO6mCNBlHcVTPsbcg==

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<div>Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile =
floats and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the=
 float chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.&nbsp; I do not have =
these overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their =
location) Instead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red washer =
which allows air out and those two intake manifold copper drain pipes at =
the bottom of the carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part which =
reads:</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>"These pipes are open to the atmosphere=
, for two reasons: first (and most important) they allow the fuel coming =
into the float bowl to displace the air in there so the fuel can reach its =
correct level in a timely manner. Second, if the float valve =
(needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they do when a bit of grit is =
trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be piped out and down &ndash;=
 away from the engine. If the <strong>fuel could not escape through the =
overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat into the =
engine</strong>. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will =
vaporize before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize will make=
 the mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch =
black smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die.=
"</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The point here is that not having those =
overflows on the float bowls; the overflow is actually after the throttle =
plates on my car. I wonder how Bill Lawrence's early car is configured and =
if he has float bowl overflows or intake overflows? Is it possible that =
this is a clue to my delima? Trapped air? Hank</div>
<div>--------------------&nbsp;<br><br>From: "Bob Haskell" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>To: &lt;[email-masked]&gt;, =
"richard mayor" &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Cc: "healeys" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST =
<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube </div>
<p>Hank,</p>
<p>I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - =
nitrophyl, not plastic.&nbsp; Supposedly unsinkable.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<pre class=3D"moz-signature">Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster =
registrar</pre>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank =
Leach via Healeys wrote:</div>
<blockquote>
<div>I actually cannot figure =
where all the fuel is coming from. In static mode-key off and float bowls =
at proper level-with dashpot and piston removed, no fuel is apparent (as =
Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as you say equal to float setting). =
However, with key on and carbs together it's a different story-fuel is =
flowing steadily. The suggestion that was made that we really need to have =
clear plastic float bowls has merit. I cannot tell if the brass float is =
pushing hard enough to shut off the peg on the valve. When held shut by =
hand its positive.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>If the float is "heavy", =
then it will not effect enough pressure on the peg to stop the flow. This =
is why someone suggested plastic floats instead of brass. Fuel is the shut =
off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle valves from front to rear =
carb in hopes that the front one will now start leaking. That may be a clue=
 to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next year?) to test that theory.=
<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "richard mayor" <a =
class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D"mailto:boyracer466@gmail.=
com">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>To: "Leach Hank" <a =
class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D"mailto:gradea1@charter.=
net">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>Cc: "healeys" <a =
class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked].=
net">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23=
 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube =
<br>Hank,</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>If I read your post correctly, the =
fuel is coming out of the jet in the carburetor into the intake manifold =
and then out the drain tube. &nbsp;Not from the overflow tube on the float =
chamber. I&rsquo;ll proceed with this assumption.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float =
chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float =
level is so important. &nbsp;If fuel is flowing out of &nbsp;the jet before=
 the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your =
float level is set too high. &nbsp;You need to close the float needle valve=
 with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try =
1/2&rdquo; and see if that stops the flow. &nbsp;But then you said you =
tried different settings.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all =
the way to the top to close the needle valve? &nbsp;Try a different float. =
Polish the post. &nbsp;Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the =
casting that is not allowing the needle to move feely into it&rsquo;s seat.=
 &nbsp;I think that&rsquo;s where the problem is.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br id=3D"lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage">
<div>
<div>Richard Mayor</div>
<div><a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div><br>
<blockquote>
<div>On Dec 22, 2024, at =
12:28=E2=80=AFPM, Hank Leach via Healeys <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> =
wrote:</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;I have chased the cause of too much =
fuel exiting from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These =
are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So =
I find that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the =
flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out =
overflow drain tube.&nbsp;
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>No way to center jet on =
car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and =
gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. =
Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.&nbsp; Both =
carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.&nbsp; Turn on key- fuel =
pump clicking-overflow again leaking.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many =
times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.=
&nbsp; I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this =
is a British Car.&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it=
 is dry. I filled the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle =
valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked (these are =
unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle =
and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as =
specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to =
try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a =
bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the garage and =
creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I =
prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is =
applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, =
both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it =
can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast =
then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!&nbsp; =
Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im =
tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089=
. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number =
drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total=
 on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India =
knockoffs.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I really thought that the centering=
 was the issue and took the carb off for that reason which cured the =
drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions?=
 Someone says use plastic floats...Hank</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>Support Team.Net <a =
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</pre>
</blockquote>
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[email-masked]

----_NmP-8e9b602948ba6174-Part_1--

---

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 05:29:09 +0000

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Hank Leach via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 18:33:11 +0000 HueUnooXi+hnCQszUnVdzlCjXPos26Ol1sH1W22+wrneJSsDvzssMBfP5eNxS+hoY/M1jojPZzy7XjT45QXyNqNkk8gg5UCB59aPFBt9b5onLijbg/wbagp5 rhRUIkB52vQHx+bL7mF7kPdJwAZ5NV7TTILYSKPBHyNQULwJkRib6LbHWiQ7EojS

--===============6864833692310750889==
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<div>Ah! A rebel in the crowd. I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100 =
engines on the web.&nbsp; Many are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL =
DRAIN TUBES.&nbsp; The <em>later </em>engine setups have drain tubes in the=
 lid. This includes the cars using H6 carbs (Lemans).&nbsp; Also, on these =
early designs there is a different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672&nbsp; which =
has a lower drain in the casing<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;">=
 up to engine # 139915</span> (my engine 139563). Of course Moss, etc. only=
 sell the later style products. but some books show the solid float lids =
and some show vented lids and some show a lid with a drain tube (air vent).=
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>So, in theory the way the early system works;=
 fuel is inlet from the float chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the=
 tube positioned between the two gland washers which are to keep the fuel =
intact. when the choke is pulled that jet hole&nbsp; is lowered to send in,=
 as the British say..."a neat petrol supply" to start the car.</div>
<div>Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet =
into the throttle area and into the manifold. <span =
style=3D"text-decoration: underline;">Unless the engine is now =
turning</span> and suction from the piston is active, the fuel will run =
haplessly in the intake manifold and out the drain tube to the ground. So =
the important procedure in these early systems is turn the key and crank =
the engine <span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;">immediately</span> =
or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube.&nbsp; I'm here testing the =
operation of the carburetors in a static mode-its not going to do anything =
but spew fuel to the ground. Right?</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the =
manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as the =
Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds like=
 the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear =
the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (float=
 bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" &lt;healeys@autox.=
team.net&gt;, "Bob Haskell" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;, "richard =
mayor" &lt;[email-masked]&gt;, &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Sent:=
 December 22, 2024 at 9:29 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing =
fuel into intake drain tube </div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; =
font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: =
transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: =
inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">I&rsquo;d like to =
be able to answer that, but I have to confess I&rsquo;ve modified the =
induction system on mine (I know, I&rsquo;m going to Hell) and I&rsquo;m a =
little fuzzy on the details. If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the =
float bowls originally had an open vent arrangement on the top with no =
drain tubes. The car was built up from several dozen boxes of parts, so =
that may not have been correct. About 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s =
and installed those with drain tubes. The car is a bitsa anyway so =
originality is secondary, or maybe tertiary&hellip;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; =
background-color: transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: =
inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: =
transparent;">Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; =
font-size: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">BN1 =
554</div>
<hr style=3D"display: inline-block; width: 98%;">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg"><strong>From:</strong> Healeys =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><strong>Sent:</strong> Monday, December =
23, 2024 1:59 AM<br><strong>To:</strong> Bob Haskell =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;; richard mayor &lt;boyracer466@gmail.=
com&gt;<br><strong>Cc:</strong> healeys &lt;[email-masked].=
net&gt;<br><strong>Subject:</strong> Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into =
intake drain tube
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>Thanks Bob-yes the =
Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floats and about $20 each. =
Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the float chamber overflow =
AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.&nbsp; I do not have these overflows on my =
float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location) Instead the early =
cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allows air out and those =
two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of the carb intakes. =
There is a PDF note on that part which reads:</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>"These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and =
most important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displace =
the air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely manner=
. Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they =
do when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be =
piped out and down &ndash; away from the engine. If the <strong>fuel could =
not escape through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor =
throat into the engine</strong>. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of=
 it will vaporize before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize =
will make the mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will =
belch black smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and =
die."</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The point here is that not having those =
overflows on the float bowls; the overflow is actually after the throttle =
plates on my car. I wonder how Bill Lawrence's early car is configured and =
if he has float bowl overflows or intake overflows? Is it possible that =
this is a clue to my delima? Trapped air? Hank</div>
<div>--------------------&nbsp;<br><br>From: "Bob Haskell" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>To: &lt;[email-masked]&gt;, =
"richard mayor" &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Cc: "healeys" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST =
<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube</div>
<p>Hank,</p>
<p>I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - =
nitrophyl, not plastic.&nbsp; Supposedly unsinkable.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<pre class=3D"x_moz-signature">Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster =
registrar</pre>
<div class=3D"x_moz-cite-prefix">On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank =
Leach via Healeys wrote:</div>
<blockquote>
<div>I actually cannot figure =
where all the fuel is coming from. In static mode-key off and float bowls =
at proper level-with dashpot and piston removed, no fuel is apparent (as =
Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as you say equal to float setting). =
However, with key on and carbs together it's a different story-fuel is =
flowing steadily. The suggestion that was made that we really need to have =
clear plastic float bowls has merit. I cannot tell if the brass float is =
pushing hard enough to shut off the peg on the valve. When held shut by =
hand its positive.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>If the float is "heavy", =
then it will not effect enough pressure on the peg to stop the flow. This =
is why someone suggested plastic floats instead of brass. Fuel is the shut =
off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle valves from front to rear =
carb in hopes that the front one will now start leaking. That may be a clue=
 to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next year?) to test that theory.=
<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "richard mayor" <a =
class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"> =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>To: "Leach Hank" <a =
class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"> =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>Cc: "healeys" <a =
class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"> =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM =
PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube =
<br>Hank,</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>If I read your post correctly, the =
fuel is coming out of the jet in the carburetor into the intake manifold =
and then out the drain tube. &nbsp;Not from the overflow tube on the float =
chamber. I&rsquo;ll proceed with this assumption.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float =
chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float =
level is so important. &nbsp;If fuel is flowing out of &nbsp;the jet before=
 the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your =
float level is set too high. &nbsp;You need to close the float needle valve=
 with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try =
1/2&rdquo; and see if that stops the flow. &nbsp;But then you said you =
tried different settings.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all =
the way to the top to close the needle valve? &nbsp;Try a different float. =
Polish the post. &nbsp;Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the =
casting that is not allowing the needle to move feely into it&rsquo;s seat.=
 &nbsp;I think that&rsquo;s where the problem is.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br id=3D"x_lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage">
<div>
<div>Richard Mayor</div>
<div><a class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-abbreviated" =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div><br>
<blockquote>
<div>On Dec 22, 2024, at =
12:28=E2=80=AFPM, Hank Leach via Healeys <a class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-rfc2396=
E" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"> &lt;[email-masked].=
net&gt;</a> wrote:</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;I have chased the cause of =
too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years=
. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be done correctly to =
perform. So I find that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up =
above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area =
and out overflow drain tube.&nbsp;
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean=
 and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center =
jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another=
 4 hour job.&nbsp; Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.=
&nbsp; Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) =
were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they=
 are not leaking.&nbsp; I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but =
then again, this is a British Car.&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with =
carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two =
places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak =
could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .=
090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are =
lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at =
top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing =
stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done =
outside in the rain.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I know some folks like =
Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips =
which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new, and set to =
7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. =
Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct =
pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, =
tick which it should not do!&nbsp; Fuel is going out and down the drain =
tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the =
needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but =
its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you=
, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these =
are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb =
off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. =
That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...=
Hank</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br>Suppor=
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</blockquote>
</div>
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<br>
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<a class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked].=
net">[email-masked]</a>
<a class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-freetext" =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>

class=3D"x_moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.=
net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a>

</pre>
</blockquote>
</div>

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[email-masked]

--===============6864833692310750889==--

---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 15:21:41 -0500

--===============4024883671754571205==

--0000000000005b9c4a0629f5bf0d
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Sorry Hank but I think you have that wrong.
In and SU carb,and for that matter almost every other type of carburettor,
fuel DOES NOT pump out through the jet.
The fuel level, as mentioned previously, is controlled by the float chamber
float valve to never actually be above the top of the jet. It is only the
flow of air across the carburettor "bridge", where the jet is positioned,
that draws fuel up through the jet to be atomized into the airflow and into
the inlet manifold.
This is all related to Bernoulli's principle
<https://www.google.com/search?client=3Dfirefox-b-d&q=3DBernoulli%27s+princ=
iple>
which is the basis upon which all carburettors work.
If fuel is coming out of the jet when the engine is not running then the
mechanism controlling the float level is not operating correctly.

M

On Mon, Dec 23, 2024 at 1:37=E2=80=AFPM Hank Leach via Healeys <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> Ah! A rebel in the crowd. I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100
> engines on the web.  Many are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL DRAIN
> TUBES.  The *later *engine setups have drain tubes in the lid. This
> includes the cars using H6 carbs (Lemans).  Also, on these early designs
> there is a different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672  which has a lower drain i=
n
> the casing up to engine # 139915 (my engine 139563). Of course Moss, etc.
> only sell the later style products. but some books show the solid float
> lids and some show vented lids and some show a lid with a drain tube (air
> vent).
>
> So, in theory the way the early system works; fuel is inlet from the floa=
t
> chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the tube positioned between the
> two gland washers which are to keep the fuel intact. when the choke is
> pulled that jet hole  is lowered to send in, as the British say..."a neat
> petrol supply" to start the car.
> Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet into
> the throttle area and into the manifold. Unless the engine is now turning
> and suction from the piston is active, the fuel will run haplessly in the
> intake manifold and out the drain tube to the ground. So the important
> procedure in these early systems is turn the key and crank the engine
> immediately or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube.  I'm here
> testing the operation of the carburetors in a static mode-its not going t=
o
> do anything but spew fuel to the ground. Right?
>
> The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the
> manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as th=
e
> Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds li=
ke
> the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear
> the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (flo=
at
> bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank
>
>
> --------------------
>
> From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <[email-masked]>
> To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <[email-masked]>, "Bob Haskell" <
> [email-masked]>, "richard mayor" <[email-masked]>, <
> [email-masked]>
> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 9:29 PM PST
> I=E2=80=99d like to be able to answer that, but I have to confess I=E2=80=
=99ve modified
> the induction system on mine (I know, I=E2=80=99m going to Hell) and I=E2=
=80=99m a little
> fuzzy on the details. If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the float bow=
ls
> originally had an open vent arrangement on the top with no drain tubes. T=
he
> car was built up from several dozen boxes of parts, so that may not have
> been correct. About 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s and installed thos=
e
> with drain tubes. The car is a bitsa anyway so originality is secondary, =
or
> maybe tertiary=E2=80=A6
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <[email-masked]> on behalf of Hank Leach
> via Healeys <[email-masked]>
> *Sent:* Monday, December 23, 2024 1:59 AM
> *To:* Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>; richard mayor <
> [email-masked]>
> *Cc:* healeys <[email-masked]>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>
> Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floats
> and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the floa=
t
> chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.  I do not have these
> overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location)
> Instead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allow=
s
> air out and those two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of
> the carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part which reads:
>
> "These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and most
> important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displace the
> air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely manner.
> Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they d=
o
> when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be
> piped out and down =E2=80=93 away from the engine. If the *fuel could not=
 escape
> through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat into
> the engine*. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will vaporize
> before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize will make the
> mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch black
> smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die."
>
> The point here is that not having those overflows on the float bowls; the
> overflow is actually after the throttle plates on my car. I wonder how Bi=
ll
> Lawrence's early car is configured and if he has float bowl overflows or
> intake overflows? Is it possible that this is a clue to my delima? Trappe=
d
> air? Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Bob Haskell" <[email-masked]>
> To: <[email-masked]>, "richard mayor" <[email-masked]>
> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST
> removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as
> you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together
> it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was
> made that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I
> cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg
> on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.
>
> If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on the
> peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats instea=
d
> of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle
> valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will now start
> leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next
> year?) to test that theory.
> --------------------
>
> From: "richard mayor" <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]>
> To: "Leach Hank" <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]>
> Cc: "healeys" <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]>
> If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the
> carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.  Not fro=
m
> the overflow tube on the float chamber. I=E2=80=99ll proceed with this as=
sumption.
> chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float
> level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet before the
> needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your flo=
at
> level is set too high.  You need to close the float needle valve with the
> float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2=E2=80=
=9D and
> see if that stops the flow.  But then you said you tried different
> settings.
>
> Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the
> way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. Polish
> the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is
> not allowing the needle to move feely into it=E2=80=99s seat.  I think th=
at=E2=80=99s where
> the problem is.
>
> Richard Mayor
> [email-masked]
>
>
> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28=E2=80=AFPM, Hank Leach via Healeys
> <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]> wrote:
>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carbureto=
r
> overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but
> must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of cente=
r
> and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel
> to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.
>
> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean an=
d
> replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center
> jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-anoth=
er
> 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn =
on
> key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.
>
> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many
> times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.
> I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a
> British Car.
> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with car=
b
> cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two plac=
es
> checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be
> between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090.
> Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean
> that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top
> .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stink=
s
> up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in
> the rain.
>
> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple bras=
s
> ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked
> leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are
> equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by th=
e
> stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to =
a
> stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out an=
d
> down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure t=
he
> top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the n=
ew
> jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round=
?
> Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I kno=
w
> these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
>
> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off
> for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's
> not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive/healeys
> [email-masked]://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaske=
[email-masked]
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--0000000000005b9c4a0629f5bf0d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sa=
ns-serif;font-size:small">Sorry Hank but I think you have that wrong.</div>=
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-siz=
e:small">In and SU carb,and for that matter almost every other type of carb=
urettor, fuel DOES NOT pump out through the jet. <br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">The fue=
l level, as mentioned previously, is controlled by the float chamber float =
valve to never actually be above the top of the jet. It is only the flow of=
 air across the carburettor &quot;bridge&quot;, where the jet is positioned=
, that draws fuel up through the jet to be atomized into the airflow and in=
to the inlet manifold. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font=
-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">This is all related to <a href=3D=
"https://www.google.com/search?client=3Dfirefox-b-d&amp;q=3DBernoulli%27s+p=
rinciple">Bernoulli&#39;s principle</a> which is the basis upon which all c=
arburettors work.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:ar=
ial,sans-serif;font-size:small">If fuel is coming out of the jet when the e=
ngine is not running then the mechanism controlling the float level is not =
operating correctly.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family=
:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" s=
tyle=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br></div></div><br>=
<div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"=
gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 23, 2024 at 1:37=E2=80=AFPM Hank Leach via Healeys =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt=
; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px=
 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div>Ah=
! A rebel in the crowd. I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100 engines o=
n the web.=C2=A0 Many are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL DRAIN TUBES=
.=C2=A0 The <em>later </em>engine setups have drain tubes in the lid. This =
includes the cars using H6 carbs (Lemans).=C2=A0 Also, on these early desig=
ns there is a different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672=C2=A0 which has a lower d=
rain in the casing<span style=3D"text-decoration:underline"> up to engine #=
 139915</span> (my engine 139563). Of course Moss, etc. only sell the later=
 style products. but some books show the solid float lids and some show ven=
ted lids and some show a lid with a drain tube (air vent).</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>So, in theory the way the early system works; fuel is inlet from the f=
loat chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the tube positioned between =
the two gland washers which are to keep the fuel intact. when the choke is =
pulled that jet hole=C2=A0 is lowered to send in, as the British say...&quo=
t;a neat petrol supply&quot; to start the car.</div>
<div>Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet i=
nto the throttle area and into the manifold. <span style=3D"text-decoration=
:underline">Unless the engine is now turning</span> and suction from the pi=
ston is active, the fuel will run haplessly in the intake manifold and out =
the drain tube to the ground. So the important procedure in these early sys=
tems is turn the key and crank the engine <span style=3D"text-decoration:un=
derline">immediately</span> or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube.=
=C2=A0 I&#39;m here testing the operation of the carburetors in a static mo=
de-its not going to do anything but spew fuel to the ground. Right?</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the =
manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as the =
Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds like=
 the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear =
the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (float=
 bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div><br>-------------------- <br><br>From: &quot;WILLIAM B LAWRENCE&quot; =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt; <br>To: &quot;Hank Leach via Healeys&quot; &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:heal=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, &quot=
;Bob Haskell&quot; &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D=
"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, &quot;richard mayor&quot; &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
om</a>&gt;, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">gr=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at 9:29 PM PST <br>Su=
bject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube </div>
<div style=3D"font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;backgroun=
d-color:transparent">=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;backgroun=
d-color:transparent">I=E2=80=99d like to be able to answer that, but I have=
 to confess I=E2=80=99ve modified the induction system on mine (I know, I=
=E2=80=99m going to Hell) and I=E2=80=99m a little fuzzy on the details. If=
 memory serves (a doubtful premise) the float bowls originally had an open =
vent arrangement on the top with no drain tubes. The car was built up from =
several dozen boxes of parts, so that may not have been correct. About 20 y=
ears ago I built a pair of H6s and installed those with drain tubes. The ca=
r is a bitsa anyway so originality is secondary, or maybe tertiary=E2=80=A6=
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;backgroun=
d-color:transparent">=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;backgroun=
d-color:transparent">Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;backgroun=
d-color:transparent">BN1 554</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"m_-6618822986480632876divRplyFwdMsg"><strong>From:</strong> Heal=
eys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt; on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys=
 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">healeys@au=
tox.team.net</a>&gt;<br><strong>Sent:</strong> Monday, December 23, 2024 1:=
59 AM<br><strong>To:</strong> Bob Haskell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:rchaskell@e=
arthlink.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;; richard ma=
yor &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">boyracer=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br><strong>Cc:</strong> healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<b=
r><strong>Subject:</strong> Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drai=
n tube
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floa=
ts and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the flo=
at chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.=C2=A0 I do not have thes=
e overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location) I=
nstead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allows a=
ir out and those two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of th=
e carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part which reads:</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>&quot;These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (=
and most important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displ=
ace the air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely ma=
nner. Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as th=
ey do when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will b=
e piped out and down =E2=80=93 away from the engine. If the <strong>fuel co=
uld not escape through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor=
 throat into the engine</strong>. With that much liquid gasoline, not all o=
f it will vaporize before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize=
 will make the mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will =
belch black smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and di=
e.&quot;</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>The point here is that not having those overflows on the float bowls; =
the overflow is actually after the throttle plates on my car. I wonder how =
Bill Lawrence&#39;s early car is configured and if he has float bowl overfl=
ows or intake overflows? Is it possible that this is a clue to my delima? T=
rapped air? Hank</div>
<div>--------------------=C2=A0<br><br>From: &quot;Bob Haskell&quot; &lt;<a=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">rchaskell@earthl=
ink.net</a>&gt; <br>To: &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, &quot;richard mayor&quot; &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
m</a>&gt; <br>Cc: &quot;healeys&quot; &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
eam.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; <br>Sent: Decembe=
r 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into =
intake drain tube</div>
<p>Hank,</p>
<p>I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not =
plastic.=C2=A0 Supposedly unsinkable.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<pre>Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
<div>On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:</div>
<blockquote>
<div>I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static =
mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston remove=
d, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8&quot; below jet or as you=
 say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together it&#3=
9;s a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was mad=
e that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I cannot=
 tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg on the =
valve. When held shut by hand its positive.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>If the float is &quot;heavy&quot;, then it will not effect enough pres=
sure on the peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic flo=
ats instead of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float =
and needle valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will =
now start leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (=
next year?) to test that theory.<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: &quo=
t;richard mayor&quot; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_b=
lank"> &lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>To: &quot;Leach Hank&quot; <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank"> &lt;gradea1@charter.=
net&gt;</a> <br>Cc: &quot;healeys&quot; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
m.net" target=3D"_blank"> &lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>Sent: Dece=
mber 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel in=
to intake drain tube <br>Hank,</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in th=
e carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.=C2=A0 No=
t from the overflow tube on the float chamber. I=E2=80=99ll proceed with th=
is assumption.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float ch=
amber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float level=
 is so important.=C2=A0 If fuel is flowing out of =C2=A0the jet before the =
needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your float=
 level is set too high.=C2=A0 You need to close the float needle valve with=
 the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2=E2=
=80=9D and see if that stops the flow.=C2=A0 But then you said you tried di=
fferent settings.=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all t=
he way to the top to close the needle valve?=C2=A0 Try a different float. P=
olish the post.=C2=A0 Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting=
 that is not allowing the needle to move feely into it=E2=80=99s seat.=C2=
=A0 I think that=E2=80=99s where the problem is.=C2=A0</div>
<div><br id=3D"m_-6618822986480632876x_lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage">
<div>
<div>Richard Mayor</div>
<div><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">boyracer466=
@gmail.com</a></div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div><br>
<blockquote>
<div>On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28=E2=80=AFPM, Hank Leach via Healeys <a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank"> &lt;[email-masked]=
m.net&gt;</a> wrote:</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>=C2=A0I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear c=
arburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple desi=
gn, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of=
 center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8&quot;-that would=
 allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.=C2=A0
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean=
 and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center =
jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another=
 4 hour job.=C2=A0 Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.=C2=
=A0 Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.=C2=A0</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many t=
imes-that&#39;s not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking=
.=C2=A0 I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this=
 is a British Car.=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with =
carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That&#39;s t=
wo places checked (these are unfortunately &quot;new&quot; parts) Now the n=
ext leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new par=
ts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which=
 are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the sam=
e at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testin=
g stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done out=
side in the rain.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don&#39;t-- I prefer the simp=
le brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forke=
d leg-also new, and set to 7/16&quot; or MORE. With covers off, both bowls =
are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by =
the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows t=
o a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!=C2=A0 Fuel is going=
 out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to me=
asure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can&#39;t m=
easure the new jet but its stamped &quot;9&quot; Maybe stick in a number dr=
ill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total o=
n them. As far as I know these are &quot;genuine SU&quot; parts-not Moss In=
dia knockoffs.</div>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb of=
f for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That&#=
39;s not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Ha=
nk</div>
</div>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Hank Leach via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 21:11:29 +0000 AKLm0IKMX2jy7/MsHU4WZBbdE7Y+6G7U0el6t5GXHPW3/g5/SM0HDpvcg3Z5lhlUNROtaiAwYPd1n3R7M6VTNMVKopKUse8tSXJjhhcZe3f0Cy2+BZjjDjxd

--===============0982867239181511612==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div>Michael-that is why I asked the question in the beginning, Where is =
the fuel coming from and what is the cure for the problem? I agree that the=
 fuel is "atomized" in the throttle area and that would be the best =
condition to send it to the engine but this car is dumping fuel and I =
cannot find the mechanism to stop that flow. Suggested lighter nitrile =
floats are at the top of the list, if in fact my brass ones are bum. Bill =
Lawrence modified his intakes possibly due to fuel issues?&nbsp; The system=
 on this early car (same as yours) is a bit "cruder" than the revised float=
 bowl vent system (with no manifold drain?). And, I cannot see anything =
wrong the float setting as presently set.</div>
<div>The fuel is not coming=
 out the jet with the key off and the float bowls full to proper level-it =
is as you said below the top of the jet. Float valves are closed.&nbsp; Its=
 when the key is on and fuel pressure is applied that I am getting the =
overflow condition. I was hoping that someone else on the team has had a =
similar experience. Hank<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "Michael =
Salter" &lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>To: "Hank Leach" =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br>Cc: "Healey team" &lt;[email-masked].=
net&gt; <br>Sent: December 23, 2024 at 12:21 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: =
[Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube </div>
<div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family: arial,sans-serif; =
font-size: small;">Sorry Hank but I think you have that wrong.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family: arial,sans-serif; =
font-size: small;">In and SU carb,and for that matter almost every other =
type of carburettor, fuel DOES NOT pump out through the jet. </div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family: arial,sans-serif; =
font-size: small;">The fuel level, as mentioned previously, is controlled =
by the float chamber float valve to never actually be above the top of the =
jet. It is only the flow of air across the carburettor "bridge", where the =
jet is positioned, that draws fuel up through the jet to be atomized into =
the airflow and into the inlet manifold. </div>
<div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: =
small;">This is all related to <a href=3D"https://www.google.com/search?=
client=3Dfirefox-b-d&amp;q=3DBernoulli%27s+principle">Bernoulli's =
principle</a> which is the basis upon which all carburettors work.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family: arial,sans-serif; =
font-size: small;">If fuel is coming out of the jet when the engine is not =
running then the mechanism controlling the float level is not operating =
correctly.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family: arial,=
sans-serif; font-size: small;">&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: small;">M</div>
</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container">
<div class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 23, 2024 at 1:37=E2=80=AFPM Hank =
Leach via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked].=
net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div>
<blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left: 1px =
solid rgb(204,204,204); padding-left: 1ex;">
<div>Ah! A rebel in the crowd.=
 I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100 engines on the web.&nbsp; Many =
are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL DRAIN TUBES.&nbsp; The <em>later =
</em>engine setups have drain tubes in the lid. This includes the cars =
using H6 carbs (Lemans).&nbsp; Also, on these early designs there is a =
different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672&nbsp; which has a lower drain in the =
casing<span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;"> up to engine # =
139915</span> (my engine 139563). Of course Moss, etc. only sell the later =
style products. but some books show the solid float lids and some show =
vented lids and some show a lid with a drain tube (air vent).</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>So, in theory the way the early system works; fuel =
is inlet from the float chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the tube =
positioned between the two gland washers which are to keep the fuel intact.=
 when the choke is pulled that jet hole&nbsp; is lowered to send in, as the=
 British say..."a neat petrol supply" to start the car.</div>
<div>Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet =
into the throttle area and into the manifold. <span =
style=3D"text-decoration: underline;">Unless the engine is now =
turning</span> and suction from the piston is active, the fuel will run =
haplessly in the intake manifold and out the drain tube to the ground. So =
the important procedure in these early systems is turn the key and crank =
the engine <span style=3D"text-decoration: underline;">immediately</span> =
or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube.&nbsp; I'm here testing the =
operation of the carburetors in a static mode-its not going to do anything =
but spew fuel to the ground. Right?</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the =
manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as the =
Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds like=
 the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear =
the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (float=
 bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">ynotink@=
msn.com</a>&gt; <br>To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, "Bob Haskell" &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, "richard mayor" &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt; <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at=
 9:29 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain =
tube</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: =
inherit; background-color: transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; =
background-color: transparent;">I&rsquo;d like to be able to answer that, =
but I have to confess I&rsquo;ve modified the induction system on mine (I =
know, I&rsquo;m going to Hell) and I&rsquo;m a little fuzzy on the details.=
 If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the float bowls originally had an =
open vent arrangement on the top with no drain tubes. The car was built up =
from several dozen boxes of parts, so that may not have been correct. About=
 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s and installed those with drain tubes. =
The car is a bitsa anyway so originality is secondary, or maybe =
tertiary&hellip;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: =
inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent;">&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; =
background-color: transparent;">Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: inherit; =
background-color: transparent;">BN1 554</div>
<hr style=3D"display: =
inline-block; width: 98%;">
<div id=3D"m_-6618822986480632876divRplyFwdMsg"=
><strong>From:</strong> Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox=
.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked].=
net</a>&gt; on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br><strong>Sent:</strong> =
Monday, December 23, 2024 1:59 AM<br><strong>To:</strong> Bob Haskell =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;; richard mayor &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br><strong>Cc:</strong> =
healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br><strong>Subject:</strong=
> Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate=
 nitrile floats and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a =
drawing of the float chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.&nbsp; =
I do not have these overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned=
 their location) Instead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red =
washer which allows air out and those two intake manifold copper drain =
pipes at the bottom of the carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part =
which reads:</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>"These pipes are open to the =
atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and most important) they allow the fuel=
 coming into the float bowl to displace the air in there so the fuel can =
reach its correct level in a timely manner. Second, if the float valve =
(needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they do when a bit of grit is =
trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be piped out and down &ndash;=
 away from the engine. If the <strong>fuel could not escape through the =
overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat into the =
engine</strong>. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will =
vaporize before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize will make=
 the mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch =
black smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die.=
"</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The point here is that not having those =
overflows on the float bowls; the overflow is actually after the throttle =
plates on my car. I wonder how Bill Lawrence's early car is configured and =
if he has float bowl overflows or intake overflows? Is it possible that =
this is a clue to my delima? Trapped air? Hank</div>
<div>--------------------&nbsp;<br><br>From: "Bob Haskell" &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt; <br>To: &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;, "richard mayor" &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt; <br>Cc: "healeys" &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt; <br>Sent: December 22, 2024=
 at 4:28 PM PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake =
drain tube</div>
<p>Hank,</p>
<p>I think the newest floats are made from =
nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not plastic.&nbsp; Supposedly unsinkable.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<pre>Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
<div>On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:</div>
<blockquote>
<div>I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static =
mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston =
removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as =
you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together =
it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was =
made that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I =
cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg =
on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on =
the peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats =
instead of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float and =
needle valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will now =
start leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next=
 year?) to test that theory.<br>-------------------- <br><br>From: "richard=
 mayor" <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
rel=3D"noopener"> &lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>To: "Leach Hank" <a=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener"> =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>Cc: "healeys" <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener"> =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM =
PST <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube =
<br>Hank,</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>If I read your post correctly, the =
fuel is coming out of the jet in the carburetor into the intake manifold =
and then out the drain tube.&nbsp; Not from the overflow tube on the float =
chamber. I&rsquo;ll proceed with this assumption.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float =
chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float =
level is so important.&nbsp; If fuel is flowing out of &nbsp;the jet before=
 the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your =
float level is set too high.&nbsp; You need to close the float needle valve=
 with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try =
1/2&rdquo; and see if that stops the flow.&nbsp; But then you said you =
tried different settings.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all =
the way to the top to close the needle valve?&nbsp; Try a different float. =
Polish the post.&nbsp; Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the =
casting that is not allowing the needle to move feely into it&rsquo;s seat.=
&nbsp; I think that&rsquo;s where the problem is.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br id=3D"m_-6618822986480632876x_lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage">
<div>
<div>Richard Mayor</div>
<div><a href=3D"mailto:boyracer466@gmail.=
com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a></div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div><br>
<blockquote>
<div>On Dec 22, 2024, at =
12:28=E2=80=AFPM, Hank Leach via Healeys <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.=
team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener"> &lt;[email-masked].=
net&gt;</a> wrote:</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>&nbsp;I have chased the cause of =
too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years=
. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be done correctly to =
perform. So I find that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up =
above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area =
and out overflow drain tube.&nbsp;
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean=
 and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center =
jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another=
 4 hour job.&nbsp; Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.=
&nbsp; Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) =
were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they=
 are not leaking.&nbsp; I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but =
then again, this is a British Car.&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with =
carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two =
places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak =
could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .=
090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are =
lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at =
top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing =
stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done =
outside in the rain.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I know some folks like =
Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips =
which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new, and set to =
7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. =
Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct =
pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, =
tick which it should not do!&nbsp; Fuel is going out and down the drain =
tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the =
needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but =
its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you=
, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these =
are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb =
off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. =
That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...=
Hank</div>
</div>
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net/archive/healeys</a><br><br><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a><br><a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" target=3D"_blank" =
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.=
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target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">[email-masked]</a>
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target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noopener">http://autox.team.=
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