Subject: Re: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2023 07:56:41 -0800

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I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the AHSpares offering 
appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The impeller 
appears to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap between the 
impeller and the pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM so would likely 
flow better. The threads on it won't fit the OEM valve--I think 
everything's metric on it--and it comes with a barbed nipple. As 
previously reported, the hole on the top of the pump--anyone know what 
that's for?--comes with a plug that doesn't plug; I tried everything to 
get it to seal, and ruined a pump in my attempts. I finally found a way, 
and may use it to seal an O/D drain plug if it continues to leak. It 
works fine, but I haven't had the car out on a hot day. I don't think 
coolant flow is the cause of overheating, esp. at idle; it's mainly due 
to lack of airflow through the engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.

I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from Tom Monaco 
but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and and I didn't install it; 
I returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoops to get a refund but he 
came through. Tom knows a rebuilder in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump 
for me, but it's currently riding in the boot. I don't have the invoice, 
but Tom would tell you if you gave him a call.

Bob

On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
> When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump to a very good 
> machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he figured out the 
> correct spring pressure using an original NOS part and the pump works 
> perfect to date.
> AH Spares professes that they have the best pump. Many other 
> aftermarket makers, including County, make junk. Using the original 
> parts can work if you have someone who understands pumps.The proper 
> spring pressure is critical to prevent leaks and the seal being made 
> out of delrin resists wear from vibration. This machinist worked for 
> an agricultural supply company. Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Michael Oritt" <[email-masked]>
> To: "Austin Healey" <[email-masked]>
> Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations
> The engine in my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to replace the 
> present water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific breakthrough 
> in the manufacturing of this often problematic piece of equipment.
> Is anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real improvement 
> of what is generally offered to us?
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
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    I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the AHSpares
    offering appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The
    impeller appears to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap
    between the impeller and the pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM
    so would likely flow better. The threads on it won't fit the OEM
    valve--I think everything's metric on it--and it comes with a barbed
    nipple. As previously reported, the hole on the top of the
    pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes with a plug that doesn't
    plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ruined a pump in my
    attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal an O/D drain
    plug if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven't had the
    car out on a hot day. I don't think coolant flow is the cause of
    overheating, esp. at idle; it's mainly due to lack of airflow
    through the engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.<br>
    <br>
    I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from Tom
    Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and and I didn't
    install it; I returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoops to get
    a refund but he came through. Tom knows a rebuilder in Oregon who
    rebuilt an OEM pump for me, but it's currently riding in the boot. I
    don't have the invoice, but Tom would tell you if you gave him a
    call.<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div>When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump to a
        very good machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he
        figured out the correct spring pressure using an original NOS
        part and the pump works perfect to date.</div>
      <div> </div>
      <div>AH Spares professes that they have the best pump. Many other
        aftermarket makers, including County, make junk. Using the
        original parts can work if you have someone who understands
        pumps.The proper spring pressure is critical to prevent leaks
        and the seal being made out of delrin resists wear from
        vibration. This machinist worked for an agricultural supply
        company. Hank<br>
        -------------------- <br>
        <br>
        From: "Michael Oritt" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>
        To: "Austin Healey" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>
        Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM <br>
        Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations </div>
      <div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;">The engine in
          my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to replace the
          present water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific
          breakthrough in the manufacturing of this often problematic
          piece of equipment.</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;"> </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;">Is anyone
          making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real improvement
          of what is generally offered to us?</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;"> </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;">Best--Michael
          Oritt</div>
      </div>
      <div> </div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
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_______________________________________________

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[email-masked]
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From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2023 12:54:20 -0500

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Thanks Bob--

It is somewhat discouraging that what should be easy--sourcing a good and
dependable water pump--seems like such a daunting task.  As I mentioned I'd
like to replace my present pump--I believe the "uprated" version which I
installed in situ several years back and is working just fine--with a new,
dependable one with the hope that it will give several years of good
service, and while that should not be a big ask I don't think I should have
the feeling that I am merely changing cabins on the Titanic.

All that said, most feedback seems to point to the AH Spares unit and
that's probably where I'll go unless someone turns my head around.  You
mention that the threads are metric and I assume you mean the one for the
shutoff valve.  I don't have one of those--never had--and since it is
pretty expensive and I can simply shut off flow via the tap on the right
side of the engine I think I'll stay without one.

As to the hole on top of the pump--isn't that supposed to be a
weephole designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning that water is
getting past the seal in the engine--or am I misunderstanding what you are
referring to ?

Best--Michael

On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 11:31=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>=
 wrote:

> appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The impeller appear=
s
> to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap between the impeller an=
d
> the pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM so would likely flow better.
> The threads on it won't fit the OEM valve--I think everything's metric on
> it--and it comes with a barbed nipple. As previously reported, the hole o=
n
> the top of the pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes with a plug that
> doesn't plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ruined a pump in =
my
> attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal an O/D drain plug
> if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven't had the car out on =
a
> hot day. I don't think coolant flow is the cause of overheating, esp. at
> idle; it's mainly due to lack of airflow through the engine bay, lack of =
a
> shroud, etc.
>
> I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from Tom Monaco but
> sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and and I didn't install it; I
> returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoops to get a refund but he cam=
e
> through. Tom knows a rebuilder in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump for me,
> but it's currently riding in the boot. I don't have the invoice, but Tom
> would tell you if you gave him a call.
>
> Bob
>
> machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he figured out the corre=
ct
> spring pressure using an original NOS part and the pump works perfect to
> date.
>
> AH Spares professes that they have the best pump. Many other aftermarket
> makers, including County, make junk. Using the original parts can work if
> you have someone who understands pumps.The proper spring pressure is
> critical to prevent leaks and the seal being made out of delrin resists
> wear from vibration. This machinist worked for an agricultural supply
> company. Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Michael Oritt" <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]>
> To: "Austin Healey" <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]>
> present water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific breakthrough in t=
he
> manufacturing of this often problematic piece of equipment.
>
> Is anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real improvement of
> what is generally offered to us?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000b7916a060d08cace
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Thank=
s Bob--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div=
><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">It is somewhat discou=
raging that what should be easy--sourcing a good and dependable water pump-=
-seems like such a daunting task.=C2=A0 As I mentioned I&#39;d like to repl=
ace my present pump--I believe=C2=A0the &quot;uprated&quot; version which I=
 installed in situ several years back and is working just fine--with a new,=
 dependable one with the hope that it will give several years of good servi=
ce, and while that should not be a big ask I don&#39;t think=C2=A0I should =
have the feeling that I am merely changing cabins on the Titanic.</div><div=
 class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">All that said, most feedback seems to =
point to the AH Spares unit and that&#39;s probably where I&#39;ll go unles=
s someone turns my head around.=C2=A0 You mention that the threads are metr=
ic and I assume you mean the one for the shutoff=C2=A0valve.=C2=A0 I don&#3=
9;t have one of those--never had--and since it is pretty expensive and I ca=
n simply=C2=A0shut off flow via the tap on the right side of the engine I t=
hink I&#39;ll stay without one.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"=
color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333f=
f">As to the hole on top of=C2=A0the pump--isn&#39;t that supposed to be a =
weephole=C2=A0designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning that wate=
r is getting past the seal in the engine--or am I misunderstanding=C2=A0wha=
t you are referring to=C2=A0?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"co=
lor:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"=
>Best--Michael</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><b=
r></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div=
 class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmai=
l_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 11:3=
1=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">bspide=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" st=
yle=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padd=
ing-left:1ex"><u></u>

 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    I bought the &#39;uprated&#39; pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the AHSpares
    offering appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The
    impeller appears to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap
    between the impeller and the pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM
    so would likely flow better. The threads on it won&#39;t fit the OEM
    valve--I think everything&#39;s metric on it--and it comes with a barbe=
d
    nipple. As previously reported, the hole on the top of the
    pump--anyone know what that&#39;s for?--comes with a plug that doesn&#3=
9;t
    plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ruined a pump in my
    attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal an O/D drain
    plug if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven&#39;t had the
    car out on a hot day. I don&#39;t think coolant flow is the cause of
    overheating, esp. at idle; it&#39;s mainly due to lack of airflow
    through the engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.<br>
    <br>
    I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from Tom
    Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and and I didn&#39;t
    install it; I returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoops to get
    a refund but he came through. Tom knows a rebuilder in Oregon who
    rebuilt an OEM pump for me, but it&#39;s currently riding in the boot. =
I
    don&#39;t have the invoice, but Tom would tell you if you gave him a
    call.<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <div>On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div>When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump to a
        very good machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he
        figured out the correct spring pressure using an original NOS
        part and the pump works perfect to date.</div>
      <div>=C2=A0</div>
      <div>AH Spares professes that they have the best pump. Many other
        aftermarket makers, including County, make junk. Using the
        original parts can work if you have someone who understands
        pumps.The proper spring pressure is critical to prevent leaks
        and the seal being made out of delrin resists wear from
        vibration. This machinist worked for an agricultural supply
        company. Hank<br>
        -------------------- <br>
        <br>
        From: &quot;Michael Oritt&quot; <a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gma=
il.com" target=3D"_blank">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>
        To: &quot;Austin Healey&quot; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked].=
net" target=3D"_blank">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br>
        Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM <br>
        Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations </div>
      <div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">The eng=
ine in
          my 100 will be out soon and I&#39;d like to replace the
          present=C2=A0water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific
          breakthrough in the manufacturing of this often problematic
          piece of equipment.</div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">=C2=A0<=
/div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Is anyo=
ne
          making or reconditioning pumps that offer=C2=A0a real improvement
          of what is generally offered to us?</div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">=C2=A0<=
/div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--M=
ichael
          Oritt</div>
      </div>
      <div>=C2=A0</div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
  </div>

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rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
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ttp://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
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eam.net</a><br>
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[email-masked]

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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2023 11:51:11 -0800

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Yep. Many/most pumps do have a hole--usually, looking like a casting 
flaw--over the shaft between the pulley and the seal.  It will weep 
coolant if the seal is leaking, but this is a big, threaded 
hole--half-inch or so--probably for some other inlet. You can see it in 
this pic:

https://bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/water-pump-uprated-bn1-to-bn2/

Bastuck, I believe, is a German company (Josef is familiar with them). 
Also, IIRC the threads on the shaft are a bit short, I used a thinner 
jamb nut to get good purchase. Those threads may be SAE, but I don't recall.

bs

On 12/21/2023 9:54 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Thanks Bob--
>
> It is somewhat discouraging that what should be easy--sourcing a good 
> and dependable water pump--seems like such a daunting task.  As I 
> mentioned I'd like to replace my present pump--I believe the "uprated" 
> version which I installed in situ several years back and is working 
> just fine--with a new, dependable one with the hope that it will give 
> several years of good service, and while that should not be a big ask 
> I don't think I should have the feeling that I am merely changing 
> cabins on the Titanic.
>
> mention that the threads are metric and I assume you mean the one for 
> the shutoff valve.  I don't have one of those--never had--and since it 
> is pretty expensive and I can simply shut off flow via the tap on the 
> right side of the engine I think I'll stay without one.
>
> weephole designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning that 
> water is getting past the seal in the engine--or am I 
> misunderstanding what you are referring to ?
>
> Best--Michael
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 11:31 AM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:
>
>     between the impeller and the pump body is, I think, smaller than
>     OEM so would likely flow better. The threads on it won't fit the
>     OEM valve--I think everything's metric on it--and it comes with a
>     barbed nipple. As previously reported, the hole on the top of the
>     plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ruined a pump in
>     my attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal an O/D
>     drain plug if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven't
>     had the car out on a hot day. I don't think coolant flow is the
>     cause of overheating, esp. at idle; it's mainly due to lack of
>     airflow through the engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.
>
>     Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and and I
>     didn't install it; I returned it, and Tom had to jump through
>     hoops to get a refund but he came through. Tom knows a rebuilder
>     in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump for me, but it's currently
>     riding in the boot. I don't have the invoice, but Tom would tell
>     you if you gave him a call.
>
>     Bob
>
>>     When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump to a very
>>     good machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he figured
>>     out the correct spring pressure using an original NOS part and
>>     the pump works perfect to date.
>>     pumps.The proper spring pressure is critical to prevent leaks and
>>     the seal being made out of delrin resists wear from vibration.
>>     This machinist worked for an agricultural supply company. Hank
>>     --------------------
>>
>>     breakthrough in the manufacturing of this often problematic piece
>>     of equipment.
>>     Is anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real
>>     improvement of what is generally offered to us?
>>     Best--Michael Oritt
>>

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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
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  <body>
    Yep. Many/most pumps do have a hole--usually, looking like a casting
    flaw--over the shaft between the pulley and the seal.  It will weep
    coolant if the seal is leaking, but this is a big, threaded
    hole--half-inch or so--probably for some other inlet. You can see it
    in this pic:<br>
    <br>
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/water-pump-uprated-bn1-to-bn2/">https://bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/water-pump-uprated-bn1-to-bn2/</a><br>
    <br>
    Bastuck, I believe, is a German company (Josef is familiar with
    them). Also, IIRC the threads on the shaft are a bit short, I used a
    thinner jamb nut to get good purchase. Those threads may be SAE, but
    I don't recall.<br>
    <br>
    bs<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/21/2023 9:54 AM, Michael Oritt
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Thanks Bob--</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">It is somewhat
          discouraging that what should be easy--sourcing a good and
          dependable water pump--seems like such a daunting task.  As I
          mentioned I'd like to replace my present pump--I believe the
          "uprated" version which I installed in situ several years back
          and is working just fine--with a new, dependable one with the
          hope that it will give several years of good service, and
          while that should not be a big ask I don't think I should have
          the feeling that I am merely changing cabins on the Titanic.</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">All that said,
          most feedback seems to point to the AH Spares unit and that's
          probably where I'll go unless someone turns my head around. 
          You mention that the threads are metric and I assume you mean
          the one for the shutoff valve.  I don't have one of
          those--never had--and since it is pretty expensive and I can
          simply shut off flow via the tap on the right side of the
          engine I think I'll stay without one.</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">As to the hole
          on top of the pump--isn't that supposed to be a
          weephole designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning
          that water is getting past the seal in the engine--or am I
          misunderstanding what you are referring to ?</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Best--Michael</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at
          11:31 AM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]"
            moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div> I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the
            AHSpares offering appears to be an unbranded version, or
            maybe a copy). The impeller appears to be somewhat more
            effective design, and the gap between the impeller and the
            pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM so would likely flow
            better. The threads on it won't fit the OEM valve--I think
            everything's metric on it--and it comes with a barbed
            nipple. As previously reported, the hole on the top of the
            pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes with a plug that
            doesn't plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and
            ruined a pump in my attempts. I finally found a way, and may
            use it to seal an O/D drain plug if it continues to leak. It
            works fine, but I haven't had the car out on a hot day. I
            don't think coolant flow is the cause of overheating, esp.
            at idle; it's mainly due to lack of airflow through the
            engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.<br>
            <br>
            I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from
            Tom Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and
            and I didn't install it; I returned it, and Tom had to jump
            through hoops to get a refund but he came through. Tom knows
            a rebuilder in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump for me, but
            it's currently riding in the boot. I don't have the invoice,
            but Tom would tell you if you gave him a call.<br>
            <br>
            Bob<br>
            <br>
            <div>On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote type="cite">
              <div>When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump
                to a very good machinist who fashioned a seal out of
                delrin and he figured out the correct spring pressure
                using an original NOS part and the pump works perfect to
                date.</div>
              <div> </div>
              <div>AH Spares professes that they have the best pump.
                Many other aftermarket makers, including County, make
                junk. Using the original parts can work if you have
                someone who understands pumps.The proper spring pressure
                is critical to prevent leaks and the seal being made out
                of delrin resists wear from vibration. This machinist
                worked for an agricultural supply company. Hank<br>
                -------------------- <br>
                <br>
                From: "Michael Oritt" <a
                  href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
                  moz-do-not-send="true">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>
                <br>
                To: "Austin Healey" <a
                  href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
                  moz-do-not-send="true">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>
                <br>
                Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM <br>
                Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations </div>
              <div>
                <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">The
                  engine in my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to
                  replace the present water pump PROVIDED there has been
                  a scientific breakthrough in the manufacturing of this
                  often problematic piece of equipment.</div>
                <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"> </div>
                <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Is
                  anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a
                  real improvement of what is generally offered to us?</div>
                <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"> </div>
                <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
                  Oritt</div>
              </div>
              <div> </div>
              <br>
            </blockquote>
          </div>
          _______________________________________________<br>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2023 11:57:07 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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ps. The zerk just goes into the cavity between the two bearings, so 
doesn't really serve a purpose that I can see, but I filled it with 
grease anyway.

>>     This machinist worked for an agricultural supply company. Hank

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<html>
  <head>
    ps. The zerk just goes into the cavity between the two bearings, so
    doesn't really serve a purpose that I can see, but I filled it with
    grease anyway.<br>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 2023 17:43:10 -0500

--===============6275824654589842170==

--000000000000a6743b060d0cd305
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Does anyone know what the large (plugged) hole is for?

On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 2:51=E2=80=AFPM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> =
wrote:

> flaw--over the shaft between the pulley and the seal.  It will weep coola=
nt
> if the seal is leaking, but this is a big, threaded hole--half-inch or
> so--probably for some other inlet. You can see it in this pic:
>
> Also, IIRC the threads on the shaft are a bit short, I used a thinner jam=
b
> nut to get good purchase. Those threads may be SAE, but I don't recall.
>
> bs
>
> dependable water pump--seems like such a daunting task.  As I mentioned I=
'd
> installed in situ several years back and is working just fine--with a new=
,
> service, and while that should not be a big ask I don't think I should ha=
ve
> weephole designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning that water i=
s
> getting past the seal in the engine--or am I misunderstanding what you ar=
e
> referring to ?
>
> Best--Michael
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 11:31=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]=
t> wrote:
>> appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The impeller appea=
rs
>> to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap between the impeller a=
nd
>> The threads on it won't fit the OEM valve--I think everything's metric o=
n
>> it--and it comes with a barbed nipple. As previously reported, the hole =
on
>> the top of the pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes with a plug tha=
t
>> doesn't plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ruined a pump in=
 my
>> attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal an O/D drain plu=
g
>> if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven't had the car out on=
 a
>> idle; it's mainly due to lack of airflow through the engine bay, lack of=
 a
>> shroud, etc.
>>
>> I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from Tom Monaco bu=
t
>> returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoops to get a refund but he ca=
me
>> machinist who fashioned a seal out of delrin and he figured out the corr=
ect
>> makers, including County, make junk. Using the original parts can work i=
f
>> From: "Michael Oritt" <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]=
>
>> present water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific breakthrough in =
the
>> Is anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real improvement o=
f
>> what is generally offered to us?

--000000000000a6743b060d0cd305
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Does =
anyone know what the large (plugged) hole is for?</div></div><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Dec 21, 2023=
 at 2:51=E2=80=AFPM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,20=
4);padding-left:1ex"><u></u>

 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    Yep. Many/most pumps do have a hole--usually, looking like a casting
    flaw--over the shaft between the pulley and the seal.=C2=A0 It will wee=
p
    coolant if the seal is leaking, but this is a big, threaded
    hole--half-inch or so--probably for some other inlet. You can see it
    in this pic:<br>
    <br>
    <a href=3D"https://bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/water-pump-uprated-bn1=
-to-bn2/" target=3D"_blank">https://bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/water-pum=
p-uprated-bn1-to-bn2/</a><br>
    <br>
    Bastuck, I believe, is a German company (Josef is familiar with
    them). Also, IIRC the threads on the shaft are a bit short, I used a
    thinner jamb nut to get good purchase. Those threads may be SAE, but
    I don&#39;t recall.<br>
    <br>
    bs<br>
    <br>
    <div>On 12/21/2023 9:54 AM, Michael Oritt
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr">
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Thanks =
Bob--</div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">It is s=
omewhat
          discouraging that what should be easy--sourcing a good and
          dependable water pump--seems like such a daunting task.=C2=A0 As =
I
          mentioned I&#39;d like to replace my present pump--I believe=C2=
=A0the
          &quot;uprated&quot; version which I installed in situ several yea=
rs back
          and is working just fine--with a new, dependable one with the
          hope that it will give several years of good service, and
          while that should not be a big ask I don&#39;t think=C2=A0I shoul=
d have
          the feeling that I am merely changing cabins on the Titanic.</div=
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">All tha=
t said,
          most feedback seems to point to the AH Spares unit and that&#39;s
          probably where I&#39;ll go unless someone turns my head around.=
=C2=A0
          You mention that the threads are metric and I assume you mean
          the one for the shutoff=C2=A0valve.=C2=A0 I don&#39;t have one of
          those--never had--and since it is pretty expensive and I can
          simply=C2=A0shut off flow via the tap on the right side of the
          engine I think I&#39;ll stay without one.</div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">As to t=
he hole
          on top of=C2=A0the pump--isn&#39;t that supposed to be a
          weephole=C2=A0designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning
          that water is getting past the seal in the engine--or am I
          misunderstanding=C2=A0what you are referring to=C2=A0?</div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--M=
ichael</div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at
          11:31=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comca=
st.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div> I bought the &#39;uprated&#39; pump by Bastuck from BPNW (t=
he
            AHSpares offering appears to be an unbranded version, or
            maybe a copy). The impeller appears to be somewhat more
            effective design, and the gap between the impeller and the
            pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM so would likely flow
            better. The threads on it won&#39;t fit the OEM valve--I think
            everything&#39;s metric on it--and it comes with a barbed
            nipple. As previously reported, the hole on the top of the
            pump--anyone know what that&#39;s for?--comes with a plug that
            doesn&#39;t plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and
            ruined a pump in my attempts. I finally found a way, and may
            use it to seal an O/D drain plug if it continues to leak. It
            works fine, but I haven&#39;t had the car out on a hot day. I
            don&#39;t think coolant flow is the cause of overheating, esp.
            at idle; it&#39;s mainly due to lack of airflow through the
            engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.<br>
            <br>
            I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, bought from
            Tom Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough and
            and I didn&#39;t install it; I returned it, and Tom had to jump
            through hoops to get a refund but he came through. Tom knows
            a rebuilder in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump for me, but
            it&#39;s currently riding in the boot. I don&#39;t have the inv=
oice,
            but Tom would tell you if you gave him a call.<br>
            <br>
            Bob<br>
            <br>
            <div>On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote type=3D"cite">
              <div>When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original pump
                to a very good machinist who fashioned a seal out of
                delrin and he figured out the correct spring pressure
                using an original NOS part and the pump works perfect to
                date.</div>
              <div>=C2=A0</div>
              <div>AH Spares professes that they have the best pump.
                Many other aftermarket makers, including County, make
                junk. Using the original parts can work if you have
                someone who understands pumps.The proper spring pressure
                is critical to prevent leaks and the seal being made out
                of delrin resists wear from vibration. This machinist
                worked for an agricultural supply company. Hank<br>
                -------------------- <br>
                <br>
                From: &quot;Michael Oritt&quot; <a href=3D"mailto:michael.o=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>
                <br>
                To: &quot;Austin Healey&quot; <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@aut=
ox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>
                <br>
                Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM <br>
                Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations </div>
              <div>
                <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"=
>The
                  engine in my 100 will be out soon and I&#39;d like to
                  replace the present=C2=A0water pump PROVIDED there has be=
en
                  a scientific breakthrough in the manufacturing of this
                  often problematic piece of equipment.</div>
                <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"=
>=C2=A0</div>
                <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"=
>Is
                  anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer=C2=A0a
                  real improvement of what is generally offered to us?</div=
                <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"=
>=C2=A0</div>
                <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"=
                  Oritt</div>
              </div>
              <div>=C2=A0</div>
              <br>
            </blockquote>
          </div>
          _______________________________________________<br>
          Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=
=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
          Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75<br>
          <br>
          Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D=
"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
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er" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
          <br>
          <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">Heale=
[email-masked]</a><br>
          <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D=
"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/heale=
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</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

--===============6275824654589842170==--

---

From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 2023 01:42:29 +0000 (UTC) MailServer2404B143.10000-Famine2404-0-877cc4021c26

--===============5965553533422665533==

--Apple-Webmail-42--25d6065a-f067-430f-930d-035b8e005592
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
    charset=utf-8;
    format=flowed

Leaking! And leaking a lot!! Here's how I know, I had a water pump fail on=
 a trip to Oregon, I was going to see Steve Pike, let him know I was going=
 to be late and why, when I arrived by tow truck, Steve had gotten one of =
these new pumps from BPNW and it was waiting for me. Next day I told out t=
he old, put this pump in, hooked everything up and fired up! Lots and lots=
 of leaks that threaded hole. Went through all kinds of jumps, hoops, and =
bends and made it good enough to drive home 365 miles. Then I fixed it wit=
h a "new" Permatex product and it's been great ever since. Drove it to LA,=
 840 some miles, drove it around Europe 2500 miles, and back home from LA.=
 No problems. Bottom line, it appears the threads in the casing are straig=
ht threads and not pipe threads, And from what I've been told, straight th=
reads are not water tight. So yea, that hole's purpose in this water pump =
is to leak. It can be worked around and knock wood, has been not leaking a=
nd working great for over 4K miles. I do check it quite often still though=
. Steven Kingsbury '55 BN1 On Dec 21, 2023, at 5:26 PM, Michael Oritt <mic=
[email-masked]> wrote: Does anyone know what the large (plugged) hol=
e is for? On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 2:51 PM Bob Spidell < [email-masked]=
et > wrote: Yep. Many/most pumps do have a hole--usually, looking like a c=
asting flaw--over the shaft between the pulley and the seal. It will weep =
coolant if the seal is leaking, but this is a big, threaded hole--half-inc=
h or so--probably for some other inlet. You can see it in this pic: https:=
//bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/water-pump-uprated-bn1-to-bn2/ Bastuck, I =
believe, is a German company (Josef is familiar with them). Also, IIRC the=
 threads on the shaft are a bit short, I used a thinner jamb nut to get go=
od purchase. Those threads may be SAE, but I don't recall. bs On 12/21/202=
3 9:54 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: Thanks Bob-- It is somewhat discouraging t=
hat what should be easy--sourcing a good and dependable water pump--seems =
like such a daunting task. As I mentioned I'd like to replace my present p=
ump--I believe the "uprated" version which I installed in situ several yea=
rs back and is working just fine--with a new, dependable one with the hope=
 that it will give several years of good service, and while that should no=
t be a big ask I don't think I should have the feeling that I am merely ch=
anging cabins on the Titanic. All that said, most feedback seems to point =
to the AH Spares unit and that's probably where I'll go unless someone tur=
ns my head around. You mention that the threads are metric and I assume yo=
u mean the one for the shutoff valve. I don't have one of those--never had=
--and since it is pretty expensive and I can simply shut off flow via the =
tap on the right side of the engine I think I'll stay without one. As to t=
he hole on top of the pump--isn't that supposed to be a weephole designed =
to be left unplugged to serve as a warning that water is getting past the =
seal in the engine--or am I misunderstanding what you are referring to ? B=
est--Michael On Thu, Dec 21, 2023 at 11:31 AM Bob Spidell < bspidell@comca=
st.net > wrote: I bought the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the AHSp=
ares offering appears to be an unbranded version, or maybe a copy). The im=
peller appears to be somewhat more effective design, and the gap between t=
he impeller and the pump body is, I think, smaller than OEM so would likel=
y flow better. The threads on it won't fit the OEM valve--I think everythi=
ng's metric on it--and it comes with a barbed nipple. As previously report=
ed, the hole on the top of the pump--anyone know what that's for?--comes w=
ith a plug that doesn't plug; I tried everything to get it to seal, and ru=
ined a pump in my attempts. I finally found a way, and may use it to seal =
an O/D drain plug if it continues to leak. It works fine, but I haven't ha=
d the car out on a hot day. I don't think coolant flow is the cause of ove=
rheating, esp. at idle; it's mainly due to lack of airflow through the eng=
ine bay, lack of a shroud, etc. I was so desperate I even tried a County p=
ump, bought from Tom Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt rough an=
d and I didn't install it; I returned it, and Tom had to jump through hoop=
s to get a refund but he came through. Tom knows a rebuilder in Oregon who=
 rebuilt an OEM pump for me, but it's currently riding in the boot. I don'=
t have the invoice, but Tom would tell you if you gave him a call. Bob On =
12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote: When I did my 100, in 2=
015, I took the original pump to a very good machinist who fashioned a sea=
l out of delrin and he figured out the correct spring pressure using an or=
iginal NOS part and the pump works perfect to date. AH Spares professes th=
at they have the best pump. Many other aftermarket makers, including Count=
y, make junk. Using the original parts can work if you have someone who un=
derstands pumps.The proper spring pressure is critical to prevent leaks an=
d the seal being made out of delrin resists wear from vibration. This mach=
inist worked for an agricultural supply company. Hank --------------------=
 From: "Michael Oritt" <[email-masked]> To: "Austin Healey" <heal=
[email-masked]> Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM Subject: [Healeys] Wat=
er pump recommendations The engine in my 100 will be out soon and I'd like=
 to replace the present water pump PROVIDED there has been a scientific br=
eakthrough in the manufacturing of this often problematic piece of equipme=
nt. Is anyone making or reconditioning pumps that offer a real improvement=
 of what is generally offered to us? Best--Michael Oritt _________________=
______________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate=
.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/piperm=
ail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys [email-masked] h=
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://a=
utox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked] ____________=
___________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/d=
onate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/p=
ipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys [email-masked].=
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<html><body><div><div>Leaking! And leaking a lot!! Here's how I know, I had a water pu=
mp fail on a trip to Oregon, I was going to see Steve Pike, let him know I=
 was going to be late and why, when I arrived by tow truck, Steve had gott=
en one of these new pumps from BPNW and it was waiting for me.&nbsp;<br></=
div><div><br></div><div>Next day I told out the old, put this pump in, hoo=
ked everything up and fired up! Lots and lots of leaks that threaded hole.=
 Went through all kinds of jumps, hoops, and bends and made it good enough=
 to drive home 365 miles. Then I fixed it with a "new" Permatex product an=
d it's been great ever since. Drove it to LA, 840 some miles, drove it aro=
und Europe 2500 miles, and back home from LA. No problems.&nbsp;<br></div>=
<div><br></div><div>Bottom line, it appears the threads in the casing are =
straight threads and not pipe threads, And from what I've been told, strai=
ght threads are not water tight. So yea, that hole's purpose in this water=
 pump is to leak. It can be worked around and knock wood, has been not lea=
king and working great for over 4K miles. I do check it quite often still =
though.&nbsp;<br></div><div>Steven Kingsbury<br></div><div>'55 BN1</div><d=
iv><br></div><div>&nbsp;<br></div><div><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"=
><div>On Dec 21, 2023, at 5:26 PM, Michael Oritt &lt;[email-masked]=
om&gt; wrote:<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><div style=3D"color:#3333ff" class=3D"gmail_default">Does anyone know wha=
t the large (plugged) hole is for?<br></div></div><div><br></div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_quote"><div class=3D"gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Thu, Dec 21, 20=
23 at 2:51=E2=80=AFPM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
et">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote style=3D"marg=
in:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1=
ex" class=3D"gmail_quote"><div><u></u><br></div><div><div>Yep. Many/most p=
umps do have a hole--usually, looking like a casting=0A    flaw--over the =
shaft between the pulley and the seal.&nbsp; It will weep=0A    coolant if=
 the seal is leaking, but this is a big, threaded=0A    hole--half-inch or=
 so--probably for some other inlet. You can see it=0A    in this pic:<br><=
/div><div> <br></div><div> <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"https://=
bpnorthwest.com/austin-healey/water-pump-uprated-bn1-to-bn2/">https://bpno=
rthwest.com/austin-healey/water-pump-uprated-bn1-to-bn2/</a><br></div><div=
> <br></div><div> Bastuck, I believe, is a German company (Josef is famili=
ar with=0A    them). Also, IIRC the threads on the shaft are a bit short, =
I used a=0A    thinner jamb nut to get good purchase. Those threads may be=
 SAE, but=0A    I don't recall.<br></div><div> <br></div><div> bs<br></div=
><div> <br></div><div> <br></div><div>On 12/21/2023 9:54 AM, Michael Oritt=
=0A      wrote:<br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div s=
tyle=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">Thanks Bob--<br></di=
v><div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><d=
iv style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">It is somewhat=0A=
          discouraging that what should be easy--sourcing a good and=0A   =
       dependable water pump--seems like such a daunting task.&nbsp; As I=0A=
          mentioned I'd like to replace my present pump--I believe&nbsp;th=
e=0A          "uprated" version which I installed in situ several years ba=
ck=0A          and is working just fine--with a new, dependable one with t=
he=0A          hope that it will give several years of good service, and=0A=
          while that should not be a big ask I don't think&nbsp;I should h=
ave=0A          the feeling that I am merely changing cabins on the Titani=
c.<br></div><div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><b=
r></div><div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">All th=
at said,=0A          most feedback seems to point to the AH Spares unit an=
d that's=0A          probably where I'll go unless someone turns my head a=
round.&nbsp;=0A          You mention that the threads are metric and I ass=
ume you mean=0A          the one for the shutoff&nbsp;valve.&nbsp; I don't=
 have one of=0A          those--never had--and since it is pretty expensiv=
e and I can=0A          simply&nbsp;shut off flow via the tap on the right=
 side of the=0A          engine I think I'll stay without one.<br></div><d=
iv style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><div s=
tyle=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">As to the hole=0A   =
       on top of&nbsp;the pump--isn't that supposed to be a=0A          we=
ephole&nbsp;designed to be left unplugged to serve as a warning=0A        =
  that water is getting past the seal in the engine--or am I=0A          m=
isunderstanding&nbsp;what you are referring to&nbsp;?<br></div><div style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><div style=3D"col=
or:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">Best--Michael<br></div><div sty=
le=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><div style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><div style=3D"col=
or:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div><div style=3D"color:r=
gb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br></div></div><div><br></div><div=
 class=3D"gmail_quote"><div class=3D"gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Thu, Dec 2=
1, 2023 at=0A          11:31=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=0A          wrote:<br><=
/div><blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid r=
gb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex" class=3D"gmail_quote"><div><div>I bought=
 the 'uprated' pump by Bastuck from BPNW (the=0A            AHSpares offer=
ing appears to be an unbranded version, or=0A            maybe a copy). Th=
e impeller appears to be somewhat more=0A            effective design, and=
 the gap between the impeller and the=0A            pump body is, I think,=
 smaller than OEM so would likely flow=0A            better. The threads o=
n it won't fit the OEM valve--I think=0A            everything's metric on=
 it--and it comes with a barbed=0A            nipple. As previously report=
ed, the hole on the top of the=0A            pump--anyone know what that's=
 for?--comes with a plug that=0A            doesn't plug; I tried everythi=
ng to get it to seal, and=0A            ruined a pump in my attempts. I fi=
nally found a way, and may=0A            use it to seal an O/D drain plug =
if it continues to leak. It=0A            works fine, but I haven't had th=
e car out on a hot day. I=0A            don't think coolant flow is the ca=
use of overheating, esp.=0A            at idle; it's mainly due to lack of=
 airflow through the=0A            engine bay, lack of a shroud, etc.<br><=
/div><div> <br></div><div> I was so desperate I even tried a County pump, =
bought from=0A            Tom Monaco but sourced by Moss. The bearing felt=
 rough and=0A            and I didn't install it; I returned it, and Tom h=
ad to jump=0A            through hoops to get a refund but he came through=
. Tom knows=0A            a rebuilder in Oregon who rebuilt an OEM pump fo=
r me, but=0A            it's currently riding in the boot. I don't have th=
e invoice,=0A            but Tom would tell you if you gave him a call.<br=
></div><div> <br></div><div> Bob<br></div><div> <br></div><div> <br></div>=
<div>On 12/20/2023 10:40 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:<br></div><block=
quote type=3D"cite"><div>When I did my 100, in 2015, I took the original p=
ump=0A                to a very good machinist who fashioned a seal out of=
=0A                delrin and he figured out the correct spring pressure=0A=
                using an original NOS part and the pump works perfect to=0A=
                date.<br></div><div>&nbsp;<br></div><div><div>AH Spares pr=
ofesses that they have the best pump.=0A                Many other afterma=
rket makers, including County, make=0A                junk. Using the orig=
inal parts can work if you have=0A                someone who understands =
pumps.The proper spring pressure=0A                is critical to prevent =
leaks and the seal being made out=0A                of delrin resists wear=
 from vibration. This machinist=0A                worked for an agricultur=
al supply company. Hank<br></div><div> -------------------- <br></div><div=
> <br></div><div> From: "Michael Oritt" <a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gm=
ail.com">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <br></div><div> To: "Austin H=
ealey" <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]=
t&gt;</a> <br></div><div> Sent: Wed, Dec 20 2023 06:35 PM <br></div><div> =
Subject: [Healeys] Water pump recommendations<br></div></div><div><div sty=
le=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">The=0A                =
  engine in my 100 will be out soon and I'd like to=0A                  re=
place the present&nbsp;water pump PROVIDED there has been=0A              =
    a scientific breakthrough in the manufacturing of this=0A             =
     often problematic piece of equipment.<br></div><div style=3D"color:rg=
b(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">&nbsp;<br></div><div style=3D"color:=
rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">Is=0A                  anyone maki=
ng or reconditioning pumps that offer&nbsp;a=0A                  real impr=
ovement of what is generally offered to us?<br></div><div style=3D"color:r=
gb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">&nbsp;<br></div><div style=3D"color=
:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">Best--Michael=0A                 =
 Oritt<br></div></div><div>&nbsp;<br></div><div><br></div></blockquote></d=
iv><div>_______________________________________________<br></div><div> Sup=
port <a rel=3D"noopener noreferrer" href=3D"http://Team.Net">Team.Net</a> =
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