Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear seal kit

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2023 15:59:39 -0400

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I've fitted a couple of those kits and have been somewhat underwhelmed.
Firstly you have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining alignment,
definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would strongly recommend
that the cap is in place on the block for this operation.
Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decided that it
was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in the block
to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead required that one
drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.
Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around this but,
the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is something that
you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being machined. I
did mine in my 8" lathe and it's pretty scary having that huge hunk of
steel spinning between centers (don't forget to disable the chuck brake ...
rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you power
it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).
Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the rear
main which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.
 kit.
https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/

In future I'm not going to bother with the seal kit and just fot the PCV.

M

On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Oritt, <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> I'm having my 100's engine done this winter and though it's not a terribl=
e
> leaker I''d like to install a rear seal kit to tighten things up as much =
as
> possible.
> I know there are several different kits available and would appreciate an=
y
> input on which one to select along with installation tips.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

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<div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;ve fitted a couple of those kits and have been some=
what underwhelmed.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">Firstly you have to be VERY caref=
ul with the rear cap machining alignment,=C2=A0 definitely a case of measur=
e twice, cut once. I would strongly recommend that the cap is in place on t=
he block for this operation.</div><div dir=3D"auto">Secondly I was very dis=
appointed to find that the designers decided that it was just too much effo=
rt to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in the block to secure the upper h=
alf of the seal holder and instead required that one drill and tap 2 more h=
oles for that purpose.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">Thirdly, and I apprecia=
te that there is possibly no way around this but, the scroll on the cranksh=
aft has to be machined off which is something that you should have your cra=
nk grinder do when the crank is being machined. I did mine in my 8&quot; la=
the and it&#39;s pretty scary having that huge hunk of steel spinning betwe=
en centers (don&#39;t forget to disable the chuck brake ... rather frighten=
ing to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you power it down=F0=9F=
=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).</div><div dir=3D"auto">Finally, after all that effort,=
 there was still a small leak from the rear main which I finally resolved b=
y installing my PCV.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0kit.=C2=A0<a href=
=3D"https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-soluti=
on/">https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solut=
ion/</a></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">In future I&#39=
;m not going to bother with the seal kit and just fot the PCV.</div><div di=
r=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail=
_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 =
p.m. Michael Oritt, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">michael.=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" s=
tyle=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div=
 dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">I&#39;m h=
aving my 100&#39;s engine done this winter and though it&#39;s not a terrib=
le leaker I&#39;&#39;d like to install a rear seal kit to tighten things up=
 as much as possible.<br>I know there are several different kits available =
and would appreciate any input on which one to select along with installati=
on tips.<br><br>Best--Michael Oritt<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<br>
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er">[email-masked]</a><br>
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r>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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From: josef-eckert--- via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2023 22:25:27 +0100 (CET)

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I can=C2=B4t say it better than Michael. I even leave the PCV out.
An old car is like an old dog. You should allow him to leak a bit and drip=
=20
on the surface.
As long as it does its still alive.
=20
Josef Eckert
Germany
=20
=20
=20
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Rear seal kit
Datum: 2023-11-04T22:13:43+0100
Von: "Michael Salter" <[email-masked]>
An: "Michael Oritt" <[email-masked]>
=20
=20
=20
I've fitted a couple of those kits and have been somewhat underwhelmed.=20
Firstly you have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining alignment, =
=20
definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would strongly recommend=20
that the cap is in place on the block for this operation.
Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decided that it=
=20
was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in the block=
=20
to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead required that one=
=20
drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.=20
Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around this but,=20
the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is something that=
=20
you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being machined. I=
=20
did mine in my 8" lathe and it's pretty scary having that huge hunk of=20
steel spinning between centers (don't forget to disable the chuck brake ...=
=20
rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you power=
=20
it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).
Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the rear=
=20
main which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.=20
 kit.=20
<https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/=
=20
=20
M

On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Oritt, <[email-masked]
  I'm having my 100's engine done this winter and though it's not a
  terrible leaker I''d like to install a rear seal kit to tighten things up
  as much as possible.
  I know there are several different kits available and would appreciate
  any input on which one to select along with installation tips.

  Best--Michael Oritt
  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75

  Archive:<http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
  <http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys>

  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>

  Unsubscribe/Manage:
  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]>

=EF=BB=BF
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3DUTF-8"/><title></title></head><body><p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span styl=
e=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;te=
xt-decoration:none">I can&acute;t say it better than Michael. I even leave =
the PCV out.<br /></span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">An old car is like =
an old dog. You should allow him to leak a bit and drip on the surface.</sp=
an></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">As long as it does =
its still alive.</span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">Josef Eckert</span>=
</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">Germany</span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;"><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-s=
erif;font-size:10pt;color:#000000;text-decoration:none">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">-----Original-Nachricht-----</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Rear seal kit</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">Datum: 2023-11-04T22:13:43+0100</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">Von: "Michael Salter" &lt;[email-masked]=
&gt;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">An: "Michael Oritt" &lt;[email-masked]&g=
t;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<p style=3D"margin: 0px;">&nbsp;</p>
<div style=3D"position: relative; color: #000000; font: 12px Arial,Helvetic=
a,sans-serif;">
<div dir=3D"auto">I've fitted a couple of those kits and have been somewhat=
 underwhelmed.&nbsp;
<div dir=3D"auto">Firstly you have to be VERY careful with the rear cap mac=
hining alignment,&nbsp; definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I wou=
ld strongly recommend that the cap is in place on the block for this operat=
ion.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designe=
rs decided that it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes a=
lready in the block to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead=
 required that one drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way a=
round this but, the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which i=
s something that you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is be=
ing machined. I did mine in my 8" lathe and it's pretty scary having that h=
uge hunk of steel spinning between centers (don't forget to disable the chu=
ck brake ... rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle=
 as you power it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small l=
eak from the rear main which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.&nbsp;=
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">&nbsp;kit.&nbsp;<a href=3D"https://precisionsportscar.com=
/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/">https://precisionsportscar.co=
m/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/</a></div>
<div dir=3D"auto">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">In future I'm not going to bother with the seal kit and j=
ust fot the PCV.</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">M</div>
</div>
<br />
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div class=3D"gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Mic=
hael Oritt, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">michael.oritt@gm=
ail.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0 0 0 .8ex; border-left:=
 1px #ccc solid; padding-left: 1ex;">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color: #3333ff;">I'm having my 100's =
engine done this winter and though it's not a terrible leaker I''d like to =
install a rear seal kit to tighten things up as much as possible.<br />I kn=
ow there are several different kits available and would appreciate any inpu=
t on which one to select along with installation tips.<br /><br />Best--Mic=
hael Oritt</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br />Support Team.Net <a hr=
ef=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer">http:/=
/www.team.net/donate.html</a><br />Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<b=
r /><br />Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D=
"noreferrer noreferrer">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=
=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer">ht=
tp://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br /><br /><a href=3D"mailto:Healey=
[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a><br /><a hre=
f=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer nore=
ferrer">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br /><br />Unsub=
scribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mic=
[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer">http://autox.team.net/m=
ailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br /><br /></blockquote>
</div>
</div>=EF=BB=BF</body></html>
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[email-masked]

--===============0464913720140170620==--

---

From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2023 18:06:24 -0400

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Michael--

Thanks for your input and I am certainly willing to forgo the expense and
trouble of having a rear seal fit if there is a strong chance of it not
being successful.
Besides (being an aging male) I should probably have the grace to allow my
car to have an occasional drip or two.

A couple of questions....

Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage through
the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember that it
leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ago.  My
oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was after the
rebuild.  Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil pressure will
that result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend to increase
leakage past the scroll seal?

Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones
sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex
top surface.  There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap
that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.
Is there a real advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where should
the hose terminate?  I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back
and would prefer not to refit it.

Thanks--Michael Oritt

On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.=
com>
wrote:

> Firstly you have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining
> alignment,  definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would strongl=
y
> recommend that the cap is in place on the block for this operation.
> Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decided that
> it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in the
> block to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead required th=
at
> one drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.
> the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is something th=
at
> steel spinning between centers (don't forget to disable the chuck brake .=
..
> rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you pow=
er
> Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the rea=
r
> https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution=
/
> On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Oritt, <[email-masked]=
>
> wrote:
>
>> terrible leaker I''d like to install a rear seal kit to tighten things u=
p
>> any input on which one to select along with installation tips.

--0000000000009c318606095ad5a0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Micha=
el--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Thanks for your input an=
d I am certainly willing to forgo the expense and trouble of having a rear =
seal fit if there is a strong chance of it not being successful.=C2=A0=C2=
=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Besides (bein=
g an aging male) I should probably have the grace to allow my car to have a=
n occasional drip or two.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:=
#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">A c=
ouple of questions....</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#33=
33ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Q1--As=
 said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage through the co=
tter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember that it leaked m=
ore after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ago.=C2=A0 My oil =
pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was after the rebui=
ld.=C2=A0 Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil pressure will t=
hat result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend to increase leaka=
ge past the scroll seal?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#=
3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Q2--=
My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones sold by=
 Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex top surf=
ace.=C2=A0 There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap th=
at probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.=C2=
=A0 Is there a real=C2=A0advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so wher=
e should the hose terminate?=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMans kit CAB so=
me time back and would prefer not to refit it.</div><div class=3D"gmail_def=
ault" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:#3333ff">Thanks--Michael Oritt=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_def=
ault" style=3D"color:#3333ff">=C2=A0 =C2=A0<br></div></div><br><div class=
=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 =
at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail=
.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"=
gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(20=
4,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;ve fitted a couple of =
those kits and have been somewhat underwhelmed.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">Firs=
tly you have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining alignment,=C2=
=A0 definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would strongly recommen=
d that the cap is in place on the block for this operation.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decid=
ed that it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already i=
n the block to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead require=
d that one drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.=C2=A0</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around th=
is but, the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is someth=
ing that you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being mach=
ined. I did mine in my 8&quot; lathe and it&#39;s pretty scary having that =
huge hunk of steel spinning between centers (don&#39;t forget to disable th=
e chuck brake ... rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the sp=
indle as you power it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the rear=
 main which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D=
"auto">=C2=A0kit.=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-hea=
ley-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/" target=3D"_blank">https://precisionsport=
scar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/</a></div><div dir=3D"a=
uto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">In future I&#39;m not going to bother with=
 the seal kit and just fot the PCV.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div d=
ir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" cl=
ass=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Oritt, &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">michael.oritt@gma=
il.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"m=
argin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left=
:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,5=
1,255)">I&#39;m having my 100&#39;s engine done this winter and though it&#=
39;s not a terrible leaker I&#39;&#39;d like to install a rear seal kit to =
tighten things up as much as possible.<br>I know there are several differen=
t kits available and would appreciate any input on which one to select alon=
g with installation tips.<br><br>Best--Michael Oritt<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
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<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_bla=
nk">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/heal=
eys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><b=
r>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>

--0000000000009c318606095ad5a0--

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2023 23:16:53 -0400

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Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage through
the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember that it
leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ago.  My
oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was after the
rebuild.  Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil pressure will
that result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend to increase
leakage past the scroll seal?
*Michael I would be interested to know why you are thinking that a rebuild
is necessary at this stage. The drop in oil pressure alone would IMHO not
be reason enough. Is the engine making odd noises or burning excessive
amounts of oil? Perhaps a "ring and bearing" job would be the best way to
go.*

Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones
sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex
top surface.  There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap
that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.
Is there a real advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where should
the hose terminate?  I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back
and would prefer not to refit it.
*The PCV system that I've developed doesn't involve the rocker cover at all
and, by the sounds of it, your engine would be an ideal candidate. Check
the web site that I showed  ... the system is virtually invisible but does
require the replacement of the manifold balance pipe.*

M

On Sat., Nov. 4, 2023, 6:06 p.m. Michael Oritt, <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> Besides (being an aging male) I should probably have the grace to allow m=
y
> Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage throug=
h
> top surface.  There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler c=
ap
> Is there a real advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where shoul=
d
> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmai=
l.com>
>> alignment,  definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would strong=
ly
>> block to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead required t=
hat
>> the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is something t=
hat
>> you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being machined. =
I
>> steel spinning between centers (don't forget to disable the chuck brake =
...
>> rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you po=
wer
>> Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the
>> rear main which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.
>>  kit.
>> https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solutio=
n/
>>
>> In future I'm not going to bother with the seal kit and just fot the PCV=
.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Oritt, <[email-masked]=
m>
>>> terrible leaker I''d like to install a rear seal kit to tighten things =
up
>>> any input on which one to select along with installation tips.

--00000000000007b7dc06095f2c6a
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=
=3D"auto">Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakag=
e through the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember =
that it leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ag=
o.=C2=A0 My oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was=
 after the rebuild.=C2=A0 Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil=
 pressure will that result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend t=
o increase leakage past the scroll seal?</div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8p=
x;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><b>Michael I would be interested to kn=
ow why you are thinking that a rebuild is necessary at this stage. The drop=
 in oil pressure alone would IMHO not be reason enough. Is the engine makin=
g odd noises or burning excessive amounts of oil? Perhaps a &quot;ring and =
bearing&quot; job would be the best way to go.</b></div><div style=3D"font-=
size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div style=3D"font=
-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto">Q2--My car has an early aft=
ermarket valve cover and looks like the ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one f=
in and with a flat versus a slightly convex top surface.=C2=A0 There is no =
vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap that probably does not ma=
ke a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.=C2=A0 Is there a real=C2=A0=
advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where should the hose termina=
te?=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and would pr=
efer not to refit it.</div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,2=
55)" dir=3D"auto"><b>The PCV system that I&#39;ve developed doesn&#39;t inv=
olve the rocker cover at all and, by the sounds of it, your engine would be=
 an ideal candidate. Check the web site that I showed=C2=A0 ... the system =
is virtually invisible but does require the replacement of the manifold bal=
ance pipe.</b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" di=
r=3D"auto"><br></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" d=
ir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" cl=
ass=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat., Nov. 4, 2023, 6:06 p.m. Michael Oritt, &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrot=
e:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;bo=
rder-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Michael--</div><div class=3D"gmail_de=
fault" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:#3333ff">Thanks for your input and I am certainly willing to forg=
o the expense and trouble of having a rear seal fit if there is a strong ch=
ance of it not being successful.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_defau=
lt" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Besides (being an aging male) I should probably=
 have the grace to allow my car to have an occasional drip or two.</div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">A couple of questions....</div><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmai=
l_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Q1--As said earlier my car does not have=
 a great amount of leakage through the cotter pin in the bell housing, thou=
gh I do seem to remember that it leaked more after the engine was freshly r=
ebuilt about 70K miles ago.=C2=A0 My oil pressure has also dropped about 10=
-15 psi from where it was after the rebuild.=C2=A0 Assuming that a fresh en=
gine will have higher oil pressure will that result in higher crankcase pre=
ssures which would tend to increase leakage past the scroll seal?</div><div=
 class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Q2--My car has an early aftermarket va=
lve cover and looks like the ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with=
 a flat versus a slightly convex top surface.=C2=A0 There is no vent nipple=
 and it has a spring-loaded filler cap that probably does not make a tight =
seal though there is no oil blow-by.=C2=A0 Is there a real=C2=A0advantage t=
o installing a PCV valve and if so where should the hose terminate?=C2=A0 I=
 removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and would prefer not to=
 refit it.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></=
div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Thanks--Michael Or=
itt=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">=C2=A0 =
=C2=A0<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter &lt;<=
a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferr=
er">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gm=
ail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,=
204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;ve fitted a couple of th=
ose kits and have been somewhat underwhelmed.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">Firstl=
y you have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining alignment,=C2=A0 =
definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would strongly recommend th=
at the cap is in place on the block for this operation.</div><div dir=3D"au=
to">Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decided tha=
t it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in the =
block to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead required that=
 one drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"au=
to">Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around this but=
, the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is something th=
at you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being machined. =
I did mine in my 8&quot; lathe and it&#39;s pretty scary having that huge h=
unk of steel spinning between centers (don&#39;t forget to disable the chuc=
k brake ... rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle =
as you power it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).</div><div dir=3D"auto">Final=
ly, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the rear main =
which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>=C2=A0kit.=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-10=
0-engine-oil-leak-solution/" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">https://p=
recisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/</a></div>=
<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">In future I&#39;m not going t=
o bother with the seal kit and just fot the PCV.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br=
></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div d=
ir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael O=
ritt, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote=
 class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px so=
lid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail=
_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I&#39;m having my 100&#39;s engine=
 done this winter and though it&#39;s not a terrible leaker I&#39;&#39;d li=
ke to install a rear seal kit to tighten things up as much as possible.<br>=
I know there are several different kits available and would appreciate any =
input on which one to select along with installation tips.<br><br>Best--Mic=
hael Oritt<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.htm=
l</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/he=
aleys</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferr=
er noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/h=
ealeys</a><br>
<br>
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get=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
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s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=
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<br>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>

--00000000000007b7dc06095f2c6a--

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[email-masked]

--===============5256346701936898560==--

---

From: David Nock via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2023 21:04:26 -0700

--===============6599521515872262891==
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">I have installed probably 30 of the 100/4 r=
ear seal conversions. &nbsp;And as long as you follow the instructions it wo=
rks fine.&nbsp;<div>You do have to make sure that you seal the rear center o=
il pan bolt. It goes directly into the rear main drain and if you don=E2=80=99=
t use a copper washer and seal the threads it will leak. And you will blame t=
he rear main seal.&nbsp;<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>David Nock</div><div><=
br></div>Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"c=
ite">On Nov 4, 2023, at 4:57 PM, Michael Oritt &lt;[email-masked]&g=
t; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"lt=
r">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#33=
33ff">Michael--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><b=
r></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Thanks for your=
 input and I am certainly willing to forgo the expense and trouble of having=
 a rear seal fit if there is a strong chance of it not being successful.&nbs=
p;&nbsp;</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Besides (=
being an aging male) I should probably have the grace to allow my car to hav=
e an occasional drip or two.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">A c=
ouple of questions....</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#333=
3ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Q1--As s=
aid earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage through the cotte=
r pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember that it leaked more a=
fter the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ago.&nbsp; My oil pressu=
re has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was after the rebuild.&nbs=
p; Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil pressure will that resu=
lt in higher crankcase pressures which would tend to increase leakage past t=
he scroll seal?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><b=
r></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Q2--My car has a=
n early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones sold by Ray Juncal m=
inus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex top surface.&nbsp; The=
re is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap that probably doe=
s not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.&nbsp; Is there a rea=
l&nbsp;advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where should the hose t=
erminate?&nbsp; I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and wou=
ld prefer not to refit it.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:=
#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Than=
ks--Michael Oritt&nbsp;</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#33=
33ff">&nbsp; &nbsp;<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D=
"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Sa=
lter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]<=
/a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0p=
x 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><di=
v dir=3D"auto">I've fitted a couple of those kits and have been somewhat und=
erwhelmed.&nbsp;<div dir=3D"auto">Firstly you have to be VERY careful with t=
he rear cap machining alignment,&nbsp; definitely a case of measure twice, c=
ut once. I would strongly recommend that the cap is in place on the block fo=
r this operation.</div><div dir=3D"auto">Secondly I was very disappointed to=
 find that the designers decided that it was just too much effort to utilize=
 the 3 tapped holes already in the block to secure the upper half of the sea=
l holder and instead required that one drill and tap 2 more holes for that p=
urpose.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"auto">Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is=
 possibly no way around this but, the scroll on the crankshaft has to be mac=
hined off which is something that you should have your crank grinder do when=
 the crank is being machined. I did mine in my 8" lathe and it's pretty scar=
y having that huge hunk of steel spinning between centers (don't forget to d=
isable the chuck brake ... rather frightening to notice the chuck winding of=
f the spindle as you power it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).</div><div dir=3D=
"auto">Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the=
 rear main which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.&nbsp;</div><div di=
r=3D"auto">&nbsp;kit.&nbsp;<a href=3D"https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-=
healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/" target=3D"_blank">https://precisionspo=
rtscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/</a></div><div dir=3D"=
auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">In future I'm not going to bother with the=
 seal kit and just fot the PCV.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D=
"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D=
"gmail_attr">On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Oritt, &lt;<a href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</=
a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div=
 dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I'm=
 having my 100's engine done this winter and though it's not a terrible leak=
er I''d like to install a rear seal kit to tighten things up as much as poss=
ible.<br>I know there are several different kits available and would appreci=
ate any input on which one to select along with installation tips.<br><br>Be=
st--Michael Oritt<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
er noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer=
 noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a h=
ref=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" t=
arget=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
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tp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
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[email-masked]

--===============6599521515872262891==--

---

From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2023 09:45:43 -0500

--===============7994708596235028022==

--00000000000074e64c060968cb3d
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*Q--Michael I would be interested to know why you are thinking that a
rebuild is necessary at this stage. The drop in oil pressure alone would
IMHO not be reason enough. Is the engine making odd noises or burning
excessive amounts of oil? Perhaps a "ring and bearing" job would be the
best way to go.*

*A--There are no odd noises and oil consumption isn't bad, though it is
more than when the engine was fresh.  I have not done a recent compression
check either static or dynamic but as said oil pressure has dropped
considerably from when the engine was fresh perhap 15-20 psi across the
board with hot idle pressure of 10-15 psi.  I did replace the oil pump last
year which resulted in perhaps a 5 psi increase in pressure and as a
further experiment I also replaced the bearing shells that were accessible
by dropping the sump (lower shells to cylinders 3 and 4) but neither of the
last two resulted in a substantial increase in pressure.  Naturally if the
teardown shows a lot of wear in rings and bores I'd be happy to keep things
to that. *

*A--Can you please give me the website address?*

On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 11:17=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail=
.com>

h
> *Michael I would be interested to know why you are thinking that a rebuil=
d
ap
d
> *The PCV system that I've developed doesn't involve the rocker cover at
> all and, by the sounds of it, your engine would be an ideal candidate.
> Check the web site that I showed  ... the system is virtually invisible b=
ut
> does require the replacement of the manifold balance pipe.*
>
> M
>
>> Thanks for your input and I am certainly willing to forgo the expense an=
d
>> Besides (being an aging male) I should probably have the grace to allow
>> my car to have an occasional drip or two.
>>
>> Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage
>> through the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember
>> that it leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles
>> ago.  My oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was
>> after the rebuild.  Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil
>> pressure will that result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend=
 to
>> increase leakage past the scroll seal?
>>
>> sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly conve=
x
>> top surface.  There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler =
cap
>> Is there a real advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where shou=
ld
>> the hose terminate?  I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time bac=
k
>> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gma=
il.com>
>>> alignment,  definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would stron=
gly
>>> Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decided tha=
t
>>> it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in th=
e
>>> block to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead required =
that
>>> Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around this but=
,
>>> the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is something =
that
>>> you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being machined.=
 I
>>> steel spinning between centers (don't forget to disable the chuck brake=
 ...
>>> rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you p=
ower
>>> https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-soluti=
on/
>>>
>>> In future I'm not going to bother with the seal kit and just fot the PC=
V.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Oritt, <
>>> [email-masked]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> terrible leaker I''d like to install a rear seal kit to tighten things=
 up
>>>> any input on which one to select along with installation tips.

--00000000000074e64c060968cb3d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><div =
dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b>Q--Michael I would be interested=
 to know why you are thinking that a rebuild is necessary at this stage. Th=
e drop in oil pressure alone would IMHO not be reason enough. Is the engine=
 making odd noises or burning excessive amounts of oil? Perhaps a &quot;rin=
g and bearing&quot; job would be the best way to go.</b></div><div dir=3D"a=
uto" style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b><br></b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12=
.8px"><b>A--There are no odd noises and oil consumption isn&#39;t bad, thou=
gh it is more than when the engine was fresh.=C2=A0 I have not done a recen=
t=C2=A0compression check either static or dynamic but as said oil pressure =
has dropped considerably from when the engine was fresh perhap 15-20 psi ac=
ross the board with hot idle pressure of 10-15 psi.=C2=A0 I did replace the=
 oil pump last year which resulted in perhaps a 5 psi increase in pressure =
and as a further experiment I also replaced the bearing shells that were ac=
cessible by dropping the sump (lower shells=C2=A0to cylinders 3 and 4) but =
neither of the last two resulted in a substantial increase in pressure.=C2=
=A0 Naturally=C2=A0if the teardown shows a lot of wear in rings and bores I=
&#39;d be happy to keep things to that.=C2=A0</b></div><div dir=3D"auto" st=
yle=3D"font-size:12.8px"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12.=
8px">Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the one=
s sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex=
 top surface.=C2=A0 There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded fill=
er cap that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow=
-by.=C2=A0 Is there a real=C2=A0advantage to installing a PCV valve and if =
so where should the hose terminate?=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMans kit=
 CAB some time back and would prefer not to refit it.</div><div dir=3D"auto=
" style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b>The PCV system that I&#39;ve developed does=
n&#39;t involve the rocker cover at all and, by the sounds of it, your engi=
ne would be an ideal candidate. Check the web site that I showed=C2=A0 ... =
the system is virtually invisible but does require the replacement of the m=
anifold balance pipe.</b></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12.8px"=
><b><br></b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b>A--Can you please give=
 me the website address?</b></div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote=
"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 11:17=E2=80=
=AFPM Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">michael=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);pa=
dding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(=
51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto">Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great a=
mount of leakage through the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do se=
em to remember that it leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt abo=
ut 70K miles ago.=C2=A0 My oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi fr=
om where it was after the rebuild.=C2=A0 Assuming that a fresh engine will =
have higher oil pressure will that result in higher crankcase pressures whi=
ch would tend to increase leakage past the scroll seal?</div><div style=3D"=
font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><b>Michael I would be i=
nterested to know why you are thinking that a rebuild is necessary at this =
stage. The drop in oil pressure alone would IMHO not be reason enough. Is t=
he engine making odd noises or burning excessive amounts of oil? Perhaps a =
&quot;ring and bearing&quot; job would be the best way to go.</b></div><div=
 style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><br></div><di=
v style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto">Q2--My car h=
as an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones sold by Ray Jun=
cal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex top surface.=C2=
=A0 There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap that prob=
ably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.=C2=A0 Is th=
ere a real=C2=A0advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where should =
the hose terminate?=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time b=
ack and would prefer not to refit it.</div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;c=
olor:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><b>The PCV system that I&#39;ve developed=
 doesn&#39;t involve the rocker cover at all and, by the sounds of it, your=
 engine would be an ideal candidate. Check the web site that I showed=C2=A0=
 ... the system is virtually invisible but does require the replacement of =
the manifold balance pipe.</b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rg=
b(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:r=
gb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><di=
v dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat., Nov. 4, 2023, 6:06 p.m. Michael=
 Oritt, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">mi=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,20=
4);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Michael--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255)">Thanks for your input and I am certainly willing to forgo=
 the expense and trouble of having a rear seal fit if there is a strong cha=
nce of it not being successful.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Besides (being an aging male) I should pr=
obably have the grace to allow my car to have an occasional drip or two.</d=
iv><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">A couple of quest=
ions....</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><=
br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Q1--As=
 said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage through the co=
tter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remember that it leaked m=
ore after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ago.=C2=A0 My oil =
pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it was after the rebui=
ld.=C2=A0 Assuming that a fresh engine will have higher oil pressure will t=
hat result in higher crankcase pressures which would tend to increase leaka=
ge past the scroll seal?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:r=
gb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51=
,51,255)">Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like th=
e ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly c=
onvex top surface.=C2=A0 There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded=
 filler cap that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil=
 blow-by.=C2=A0 Is there a real=C2=A0advantage to installing a PCV valve an=
d if so where should the hose terminate?=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMan=
s kit CAB some time back and would prefer not to refit it.</div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Thanks--Michael Oritt=C2=A0</d=
iv><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D=
"gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail=
_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204=
,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;ve fitted a couple of those=
 kits and have been somewhat underwhelmed.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">Firstly y=
ou have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining alignment,=C2=A0 def=
initely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would strongly recommend that =
the cap is in place on the block for this operation.</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decided that i=
t was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in the blo=
ck to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead required that on=
e drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around this but, t=
he scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is something that =
you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being machined. I d=
id mine in my 8&quot; lathe and it&#39;s pretty scary having that huge hunk=
 of steel spinning between centers (don&#39;t forget to disable the chuck b=
rake ... rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as =
you power it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).</div><div dir=3D"auto">Finally,=
 after all that effort, there was still a small leak from the rear main whi=
ch I finally resolved by installing my PCV.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
=C2=A0kit.=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100=
-engine-oil-leak-solution/" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">https://pr=
ecisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/</a></div><=
div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">In future I&#39;m not going to=
 bother with the seal kit and just fot the PCV.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div di=
r=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Or=
itt, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" targ=
et=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px soli=
d rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I&#39;m having my 100&#39;s engine d=
one this winter and though it&#39;s not a terrible leaker I&#39;&#39;d like=
 to install a rear seal kit to tighten things up as much as possible.<br>I =
know there are several different kits available and would appreciate any in=
put on which one to select along with installation tips.<br><br>Best--Micha=
el Oritt<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.htm=
l</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/he=
aleys</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferr=
er noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/h=
ealeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" tar=
get=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/li=
stinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gma=
il.com</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>

--00000000000074e64c060968cb3d--

--===============7994708596235028022==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============7994708596235028022==--

---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2023 10:43:40 -0500

--===============0181328652301231375==

--000000000000bf65450609699a11
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

PCV kit here.

On Sun., Nov. 5, 2023, 9:45 a.m. Michael Oritt, <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> more than when the engine was fresh.  I have not done a recent compressio=
n
> board with hot idle pressure of 10-15 psi.  I did replace the oil pump la=
st
> further experiment I also replaced the bearing shells that were accessibl=
e
> by dropping the sump (lower shells to cylinders 3 and 4) but neither of t=
he
> last two resulted in a substantial increase in pressure.  Naturally if th=
e
> teardown shows a lot of wear in rings and bores I'd be happy to keep thin=
gs
ap
d
ut
> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 11:17=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gma=
il.com>
 to
>> *Michael I would be interested to know why you are thinking that a
x
cap
ld
k
>> Check the web site that I showed  ... the system is virtually invisible =
but
>> On Sat., Nov. 4, 2023, 6:06 p.m. Michael Oritt, <[email-masked]=
>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Michael--
>>>
>>> Thanks for your input and I am certainly willing to forgo the expense
>>> and trouble of having a rear seal fit if there is a strong chance of it=
 not
>>> through the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to remembe=
r
>>> that it leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K mile=
s
>>> ago.  My oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where it wa=
s
>>> pressure will that result in higher crankcase pressures which would ten=
d to
>>> sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly conv=
ex
>>> top surface.  There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler=
 cap
>>> that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by=
.
>>> Is there a real advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where sho=
uld
>>> the hose terminate?  I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time ba=
ck
>>> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gm=
ail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I've fitted a couple of those kits and have been somewhat underwhelmed=
.
>>>> alignment,  definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would stro=
ngly
>>>> Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers decided
>>>> that it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already=
 in
>>>> the block to secure the upper half of the seal holder and instead requ=
ired
>>>> that one drill and tap 2 more holes for that purpose.
>>>> Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around this
>>>> but, the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off which is some=
thing
>>>> that you should have your crank grinder do when the crank is being
>>>> machined. I did mine in my 8" lathe and it's pretty scary having that =
huge
>>>> hunk of steel spinning between centers (don't forget to disable the ch=
uck
>>>> brake ... rather frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spind=
le as
>>>> you power it down=F0=9F=98=B3=F0=9F=98=B3).
>>>> https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solut=
ion/
>>>>> terrible leaker I''d like to install a rear seal kit to tighten thing=
s up
>>>>> as much as possible.
>>>>> I know there are several different kits available and would appreciat=
e
>>>>> any input on which one to select along with installation tips.

--000000000000bf65450609699a11
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"auto">PCV kit here.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><b=
r></div><a href=3D"https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-=
oil-leak-solution/">https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine=
-oil-leak-solution/</a></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr=
" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun., Nov. 5, 2023, 9:45 a.m. Michael Oritt, &lt;=
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8e=
x;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-=
size:12.8px"><b>Q--Michael I would be interested to know why you are thinki=
ng that a rebuild is necessary at this stage. The drop in oil pressure alon=
e would IMHO not be reason enough. Is the engine making odd noises or burni=
ng excessive amounts of oil? Perhaps a &quot;ring and bearing&quot; job wou=
ld be the best way to go.</b></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12.=
8px"><b><br></b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b>A--There are no od=
d noises and oil consumption isn&#39;t bad, though it is more than when the=
 engine was fresh.=C2=A0 I have not done a recent=C2=A0compression check ei=
ther static or dynamic but as said oil pressure has dropped considerably fr=
om when the engine was fresh perhap 15-20 psi across the board with hot idl=
e pressure of 10-15 psi.=C2=A0 I did replace the oil pump last year which r=
esulted in perhaps a 5 psi increase in pressure and as a further experiment=
 I also replaced the bearing shells that were accessible by dropping the su=
mp (lower shells=C2=A0to cylinders 3 and 4) but neither of the last two res=
ulted in a substantial increase in pressure.=C2=A0 Naturally=C2=A0if the te=
ardown shows a lot of wear in rings and bores I&#39;d be happy to keep thin=
gs to that.=C2=A0</b></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><br=
></div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12.8px">Q2--My car has an early=
 aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones sold by Ray Juncal minus o=
ne fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex top surface.=C2=A0 There is=
 no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap that probably does no=
t make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.=C2=A0 Is there a real=
=C2=A0advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so where should the hose t=
erminate?=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and wo=
uld prefer not to refit it.</div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12.8p=
x"><b>The PCV system that I&#39;ve developed doesn&#39;t involve the rocker=
 cover at all and, by the sounds of it, your engine would be an ideal candi=
date. Check the web site that I showed=C2=A0 ... the system is virtually in=
visible but does require the replacement of the manifold balance pipe.</b><=
/div><div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b><br></b></div><div sty=
le=3D"font-size:12.8px"><b>A--Can you please give me the website address?</=
b></div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 11:17=E2=80=AFPM Michael Salter &lt;=
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefer=
rer">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"g=
mail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"><div style=3D"font-size:12.8p=
x;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto">Q1--As said earlier my car does not ha=
ve a great amount of leakage through the cotter pin in the bell housing, th=
ough I do seem to remember that it leaked more after the engine was freshly=
 rebuilt about 70K miles ago.=C2=A0 My oil pressure has also dropped about =
10-15 psi from where it was after the rebuild.=C2=A0 Assuming that a fresh =
engine will have higher oil pressure will that result in higher crankcase p=
ressures which would tend to increase leakage past the scroll seal?</div><d=
iv style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><b>Michael =
I would be interested to know why you are thinking that a rebuild is necess=
ary at this stage. The drop in oil pressure alone would IMHO not be reason =
enough. Is the engine making odd noises or burning excessive amounts of oil=
? Perhaps a &quot;ring and bearing&quot; job would be the best way to go.</=
b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><=
br></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto">=
Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the ones sol=
d by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a slightly convex top =
surface.=C2=A0 There is no vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler ca=
p that probably does not make a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.=
=C2=A0 Is there a real=C2=A0advantage to installing a PCV valve and if so w=
here should the hose terminate?=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMans kit CAB=
 some time back and would prefer not to refit it.</div><div style=3D"font-s=
ize:12.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><b>The PCV system that I&#39;=
ve developed doesn&#39;t involve the rocker cover at all and, by the sounds=
 of it, your engine would be an ideal candidate. Check the web site that I =
showed=C2=A0 ... the system is virtually invisible but does require the rep=
lacement of the manifold balance pipe.</b></div><div style=3D"font-size:12.=
8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div style=3D"font-size:12=
.8px;color:rgb(51,51,255)" dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmai=
l_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat., Nov. 4, 2023, 6:06 =
p.m. Michael Oritt, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></=
div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bor=
der-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div=
 class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Michael--</div><div=
 class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Thanks for your input an=
d I am certainly willing to forgo the expense and trouble of having a rear =
seal fit if there is a strong chance of it not being successful.=C2=A0=C2=
=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Beside=
s (being an aging male) I should probably have the grace to allow my car to=
 have an occasional drip or two.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255)">A couple of questions....</div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" st=
yle=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a gre=
at amount of leakage through the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I d=
o seem to remember that it leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt=
 about 70K miles ago.=C2=A0 My oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 ps=
i from where it was after the rebuild.=C2=A0 Assuming that a fresh engine w=
ill have higher oil pressure will that result in higher crankcase pressures=
 which would tend to increase leakage past the scroll seal?</div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Q2--My car has an early afterm=
arket valve cover and looks like the ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin =
and with a flat versus a slightly convex top surface.=C2=A0 There is no ven=
t nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap that probably does not make =
a tight seal though there is no oil blow-by.=C2=A0 Is there a real=C2=A0adv=
antage to installing a PCV valve and if so where should the hose terminate?=
=C2=A0 I removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and would prefe=
r not to refit it.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,=
51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,25=
5)">Thanks--Michael Oritt=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"=
color:rgb(51,51,255)">=C2=A0 =C2=A0<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04=E2=
=80=AFPM Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=
=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt=
; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px=
 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div di=
r=3D"auto">I&#39;ve fitted a couple of those kits and have been somewhat un=
derwhelmed.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">Firstly you have to be VERY careful with=
 the rear cap machining alignment,=C2=A0 definitely a case of measure twice=
, cut once. I would strongly recommend that the cap is in place on the bloc=
k for this operation.</div><div dir=3D"auto">Secondly I was very disappoint=
ed to find that the designers decided that it was just too much effort to u=
tilize the 3 tapped holes already in the block to secure the upper half of =
the seal holder and instead required that one drill and tap 2 more holes fo=
r that purpose.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">Thirdly, and I appreciate that=
 there is possibly no way around this but, the scroll on the crankshaft has=
 to be machined off which is something that you should have your crank grin=
der do when the crank is being machined. I did mine in my 8&quot; lathe and=
 it&#39;s pretty scary having that huge hunk of steel spinning between cent=
ers (don&#39;t forget to disable the chuck brake ... rather frightening to =
notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you power it down=F0=9F=98=B3=
=F0=9F=98=B3).</div><div dir=3D"auto">Finally, after all that effort, there=
 was still a small leak from the rear main which I finally resolved by inst=
alling my PCV.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0kit.=C2=A0<a href=3D"http=
s://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/" rel=
=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">https://precisionsportscar.com=
/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/</a></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br=
></div><div dir=3D"auto">In future I&#39;m not going to bother with the sea=
l kit and just fot the PCV.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"au=
to">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_attr">On Fri., Nov. 3, 2023, 11:19 p.m. Michael Oritt, &lt;<a href=3D"=
mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_bl=
ank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"g=
mail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" s=
tyle=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I&#39;m having my 100&#39;s engine done this =
winter and though it&#39;s not a terrible leaker I&#39;&#39;d like to insta=
ll a rear seal kit to tighten things up as much as possible.<br>I know ther=
e are several different kits available and would appreciate any input on wh=
ich one to select along with installation tips.<br><br>Best--Michael Oritt<=
br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net=
/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/p=
ipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=
=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://a=
utox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer nore=
ferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net=
/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
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s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael=
[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>

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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2023 20:39:22 -0800

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David,

Do you drill the hole in the bearing cap?

bs

On 11/4/2023 9:04 PM, David Nock via Healeys wrote:
> I have installed probably 30 of the 100/4 rear seal conversions.  And 
> as long as you follow the instructions it works fine.
> You do have to make sure that you seal the rear center oil pan bolt. 
> It goes directly into the rear main drain and if you don’t use a 
> copper washer and seal the threads it will leak. And you will blame 
> the rear main seal.
>
> David Nock
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 4, 2023, at 4:57 PM, Michael Oritt <[email-masked]> 
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Michael--
>>
>> and trouble of having a rear seal fit if there is a strong chance of 
>> it not being successful.
>> Besides (being an aging male) I should probably have the grace to 
>> allow my car to have an occasional drip or two.
>>
>> through the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to 
>> remember that it leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt 
>> about 70K miles ago.  My oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 
>> psi from where it was after the rebuild.  Assuming that a fresh 
>> engine will have higher oil pressure will that result in higher 
>> crankcase pressures which would tend to increase leakage past the 
>> scroll seal?
>>
>> Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the 
>> ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a 
>> slightly convex top surface.  There is no vent nipple and it has a 
>> spring-loaded filler cap that probably does not make a tight seal 
>> though there is no oil blow-by.  Is there a real advantage to 
>> installing a PCV valve and if so where should the hose terminate?  I 
>> removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and would prefer 
>> not to refit it.
>>
>> Thanks--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04 PM Michael Salter 
>> <[email-masked]> wrote:
>>
>>     alignment,  definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would
>>     strongly recommend that the cap is in place on the block for this
>>     operation.
>>     Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers
>>     decided that it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped
>>     holes already in the block to secure the upper half of the seal
>>     holder and instead required that one drill and tap 2 more holes
>>     for that purpose.
>>     Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around
>>     this but, the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off
>>     which is something that you should have your crank grinder do
>>     when the crank is being machined. I did mine in my 8" lathe and
>>     it's pretty scary having that huge hunk of steel spinning between
>>     centers (don't forget to disable the chuck brake ... rather
>>     frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you
>>     power it down😳😳).
>>     Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from
>>     the rear main which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.
>>      kit.
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    David,<br>
    <br>
    Do you drill the hole in the bearing cap?<br>
    <br>
    bs<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/4/2023 9:04 PM, David Nock via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      I have installed probably 30 of the 100/4 rear seal conversions.
       And as long as you follow the instructions it works fine. 
      <div>You do have to make sure that you seal the rear center oil
        pan bolt. It goes directly into the rear main drain and if you
        don’t use a copper washer and seal the threads it will leak. And
        you will blame the rear main seal. <br>
        <br>
        <div dir="ltr">
          <div>David Nock</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          Sent from my iPhone</div>
        <div dir="ltr"><br>
          <blockquote type="cite">On Nov 4, 2023, at 4:57 PM, Michael
            Oritt <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> wrote:<br>
            <br>
          </blockquote>
        </div>
        <blockquote type="cite">
          <div dir="ltr">
            <div dir="ltr">
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Michael--</div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
              </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Thanks
                for your input and I am certainly willing to forgo the
                expense and trouble of having a rear seal fit if there
                is a strong chance of it not being successful.  </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Besides
                (being an aging male) I should probably have the grace
                to allow my car to have an occasional drip or two.</div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
              </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">A couple
                of questions....</div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
              </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Q1--As
                said earlier my car does not have a great amount of
                leakage through the cotter pin in the bell housing,
                though I do seem to remember that it leaked more after
                the engine was freshly rebuilt about 70K miles ago.  My
                oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 psi from where
                it was after the rebuild.  Assuming that a fresh engine
                will have higher oil pressure will that result in higher
                crankcase pressures which would tend to increase leakage
                past the scroll seal?</div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
              </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Q2--My
                car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like
                the ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a
                flat versus a slightly convex top surface.  There is no
                vent nipple and it has a spring-loaded filler cap that
                probably does not make a tight seal though there is no
                oil blow-by.  Is there a real advantage to installing a
                PCV valve and if so where should the hose terminate?  I
                removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and
                would prefer not to refit it.</div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff"><br>
              </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">Thanks--Michael
                Oritt </div>
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color:#3333ff">   <br>
              </div>
            </div>
            <br>
            <div class="gmail_quote">
              <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at
                4:04 PM Michael Salter &lt;<a
                  href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                  moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                wrote:<br>
              </div>
              <blockquote class="gmail_quote"
style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                <div dir="auto">I've fitted a couple of those kits and
                  have been somewhat underwhelmed. 
                  <div dir="auto">Firstly you have to be VERY careful
                    with the rear cap machining alignment,  definitely a
                    case of measure twice, cut once. I would strongly
                    recommend that the cap is in place on the block for
                    this operation.</div>
                  <div dir="auto">Secondly I was very disappointed to
                    find that the designers decided that it was just too
                    much effort to utilize the 3 tapped holes already in
                    the block to secure the upper half of the seal
                    holder and instead required that one drill and tap 2
                    more holes for that purpose. </div>
                  <div dir="auto">Thirdly, and I appreciate that there
                    is possibly no way around this but, the scroll on
                    the crankshaft has to be machined off which is
                    something that you should have your crank grinder do
                    when the crank is being machined. I did mine in my
                    8" lathe and it's pretty scary having that huge hunk
                    of steel spinning between centers (don't forget to
                    disable the chuck brake ... rather frightening to
                    notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you
                    power it down😳😳).</div>
                  <div dir="auto">Finally, after all that effort, there
                    was still a small leak from the rear main which I
                    finally resolved by installing my PCV. </div>
                  <div dir="auto"> kit. <a
href="https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/"
                      target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true"
                      class="moz-txt-link-freetext">https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/</a></div>
                  <div dir="auto"><br>
                  </div>
                  <div dir="auto">In future I'm not going to bother with
                    the seal kit and just fot the PCV.</div>
                  <div dir="auto"><br>
                  </div>
                  <div dir="auto">M</div>
                </div>
                <br>
              </blockquote>
            </div>
          </div>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
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