Subject: Re: [Healeys] Denis Welch Tappets Again

From: "m.g.sharp--- via Healeys" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2023 09:42:43 -0400

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

--===============7115115485520328005==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_014D_01D98E24.16F9D960"
Content-Language: en-ca

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_014D_01D98E24.16F9D960
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Mike, I am really no expert on this, but having had cam/tappet issues =
with my =E2=80=9956 BSA motorcycle (same technology as a Healey) in the =
past I did look into it about 18 years ago, and Mike Salter and I had a =
long discussion about cams and tappets when we did my BT7 engine a few =
years ago.  One thing I was told by a bike engine builder I trust is =
that the hardness of the cam lobes and the tappets should be the same.  =
If they are mis-matched, rapid wear can occur.  It may (I am =
speculating) not be so much that the cam or the tappets are not hardened =
properly, it is just that they are hardened differently.   I eventually =
ordered the motorcycle cam and tappets from the same source with the =
promise that they were made to work together.  That seemed to work on =
the bike.  I think buying a cam and tappets from different sources is =
not the best idea. =20

=20

With my BT7, we were lucky, as even after over 100.000 miles, the cam =
had virtually no wear, and only one tappet showed signs of wear, so that =
was replaced with an good used original one that Mike had.  So my =
original cam and 11 of the tappets were re-used (with the tappets put =
back in the same order as they came out).  Only 2000 miles on the =
engine, so jury is still out on that, but I just checked  the tappet =
clearances and so far no signs of wear.  I am surprised that =
Ahead4Healeys actually have NOS tappets.  Are you sure that they are not =
re-manufactured?  If they are actually NOS, I would be inclined to use =
them and find a good original cam to use with them (assuming the =
original one you have is too worn to re-use).  The fact that my original =
parts were fine after 100,000 miles are a testament to the quality of =
the original parts.  Mind you, I am only the second owner of the car, =
and I knew  the first owner well, and we both performed regular =
maintenance; that is key to longevity.

=20

Also, I don=E2=80=99t know what you are doing with valve springs and =
rocker gear.  Remember whenever you deviate from stock, there are =
repercussions.  Higher lift cams, increased spring pressure, etc., all =
excerpt additional stresses on cam lobes and tappets.

=20

Good luck with it =E2=80=93 these are hard decisions when re-building =
and there is so much mythology about cams and tappets to sift through.  =
My personal approach is use original parts whenever I can =E2=80=93 they =
work and they last!

=20

Cheers, Mirek

=20

From: Healeys <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Michael =
MacLean
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2023 8:42 AM
To: Ahealey help <[email-masked]>
Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch Tappets Again

=20

As I get closer to starting my 100 engine I have yet to replace the =
modified Denis Welch tappets like a list member suggested I do.  I got =
nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to swap =
with the installed Welch tappets recently.  Now, searching the archives, =
I  find someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 miles. Ruined a =
cam and the lifters.  So, what am I supposed to do now?  Should I just =
buy aftermarket tappets?  Are the aftermarket tappets hardened =
correctly?  Why wouldn't the NOS tappets be hardened right?  I don't =
want to replace the cam after I get this thing running.

Mike MacLean

------=_NextPart_000_014D_01D98E24.16F9D960
	charset="utf-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" =
xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" =
xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" =
xmlns:m=3D"http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" =
xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><meta =
name=3DGenerator content=3D"Microsoft Word 15 (filtered =
medium)"><style><!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
	{font-family:"Cambria Math";
	panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
@font-face
	{font-family:Calibri;
	panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
	{margin:0cm;
	font-size:11.0pt;
	font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}
span.EmailStyle18
	{mso-style-type:personal-reply;
	font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
	color:windowtext;}
.MsoChpDefault
	{mso-style-type:export-only;
	font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
	mso-ligatures:standardcontextual;
	mso-fareast-language:EN-US;}
@page WordSection1
	{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
	margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;}
div.WordSection1
	{page:WordSection1;}
--></style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-CA link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Mike, I am really no expert on =
this, but having had cam/tappet issues with my =E2=80=9956 BSA =
motorcycle (same technology as a Healey) in the past I did look into it =
about 18 years ago, and Mike Salter and I had a long discussion about =
cams and tappets when we did my BT7 engine a few years ago.=C2=A0 One =
thing I was told by a bike engine builder I trust is that the hardness =
of the cam lobes and the tappets should be the same.=C2=A0 If they are =
mis-matched, rapid wear can occur.=C2=A0 It <u>may</u> (I am =
speculating) not be so much that the cam or the tappets are not hardened =
properly, it is just that they are hardened <u>differently</u>. =
=C2=A0=C2=A0I eventually ordered the motorcycle cam and tappets from the =
same source with the promise that they were made to work together.=C2=A0 =
That seemed to work on the bike.=C2=A0 I think buying a cam and tappets =
from different sources is not the best idea.=C2=A0 =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>With my =
BT7, we were lucky, as even after over 100.000 miles, the cam had =
virtually no wear, and only one tappet showed signs of wear, so that was =
replaced with an good used original one that Mike had.=C2=A0 So my =
original cam and 11 of the tappets were re-used (with the tappets put =
back in the same order as they came out).=C2=A0 Only 2000 miles on the =
engine, so jury is still out on that, but I just checked=C2=A0 the =
tappet clearances and so far no signs of wear.=C2=A0 I am surprised that =
Ahead4Healeys actually have NOS tappets.=C2=A0 Are you sure that they =
are not re-manufactured?=C2=A0 If they are actually NOS, I would be =
inclined to use them and find a good original cam to use with them =
(assuming the original one you have is too worn to re-use).=C2=A0 The =
fact that my original parts were fine after 100,000 miles are a =
testament to the quality of the original parts.=C2=A0 Mind you, I am =
only the second owner of the car, and I knew=C2=A0 the first owner well, =
and we both performed regular maintenance; that is key to =
longevity.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Also, I =
don=E2=80=99t know what you are doing with valve springs and rocker =
gear.=C2=A0 Remember whenever you deviate from stock, there are =
repercussions.=C2=A0 Higher lift cams, increased spring pressure, etc., =
all excerpt additional stresses on cam lobes and =
tappets.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Good luck =
with it =E2=80=93 these are hard decisions when re-building and there is =
so much mythology about cams and tappets to sift through.=C2=A0 My =
personal approach is use original parts whenever I can =E2=80=93 they =
work and they last!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Cheers, =
Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> Healeys =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael =
MacLean<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, May 24, 2023 8:42 AM<br><b>To:</b> =
Ahealey help &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] =
Denis Welch Tappets Again<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>As =
I get closer to starting my 100 engine I have yet to replace the =
modified Denis Welch tappets like a list member suggested I do.&nbsp; I =
got nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to =
swap with the installed Welch tappets recently.&nbsp; Now, searching the =
archives, I&nbsp; find someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 =
miles. Ruined a cam and the lifters.&nbsp; So, what am I supposed to do =
now?&nbsp; Should I just buy aftermarket tappets?&nbsp; Are the =
aftermarket tappets hardened correctly?&nbsp; Why wouldn't the NOS =
tappets be hardened right?&nbsp; I don't want to replace the cam after I =
get this thing running.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Mike =
MacLean<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></body></html>
------=_NextPart_000_014D_01D98E24.16F9D960--

--===============7115115485520328005==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

--===============7115115485520328005==--

---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2023 09:46:53 -0400

--===============5711965305920663456==

--00000000000074981705fc70bdbe

Speaking as someone who has over the years had 2 bouts of tappet failure in
100 engines I would suggest that you are wise to be cautious.
I can't advise on the tappets that you have fitted but can say the I am now
using sets from A H Spares which are proving to be very satisfactory and
are different from those I have had problems with.
I have, in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug and have found that to be a
very good indicator of impending tappet failure. On the last 2 oil changes
there was absolutely no metal on the plug.
My procedure initial start procedure was to firstly remove the inner valve
springs as I have found that they and the additional pressure that they
produce are just not required as my engine exhibits absolutely no sign of
valve bounce right up to the red line.
I use Lucas 20/50 break in oil for the 1st 500 miles.
On first start I held the engine around 1500 RPM for about 20 minutes. (I
have difficulty believing that this is necessary but that's what the
experts recommend so you have to be sure that the cooling system is in good
shape).
I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 after 500 odd miles and then change the
oil every 3000 miles.
The engine in B#174 now runs with absolutely NO tappet clatter which is
pretty unusual for a 100.
I recently checked the valve clearances and they were unchanged after 2500
miles, another good indicator that the cam and tappets are holding up well.
I'm sure others have had different experiences but I  would recommend that
you make every effort to avoid a cam/tappet failure because rectification
requires a complete engine strip down.
Good luck.

M
 (Still running perfectly with outer springs only)

On Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. Michael MacLean, <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> As I get closer to starting my 100 engine I have yet to replace the
> modified Denis Welch tappets like a list member suggested I do.  I got
> nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to swap with
> the installed Welch tappets recently.  Now, searching the archives, I  find
> someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 miles. Ruined a cam and
> the lifters.  So, what am I supposed to do now?  Should I just buy
> aftermarket tappets?  Are the aftermarket tappets hardened correctly?  Why
> wouldn't the NOS tappets be hardened right?  I don't want to replace the
> cam after I get this thing running.
> Mike MacLean
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--00000000000074981705fc70bdbe
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Speaking as someone who has over the years had 2 bouts of=
 tappet failure in 100 engines I would suggest that you are wise to be caut=
ious.<div dir=3D"auto">I can&#39;t advise on the tappets that you have fitt=
ed but can say the I am now using sets from A H Spares which are proving to=
 be very satisfactory and are different from those I have had problems with=
.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I have, in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug and h=
ave found that to be a very good indicator of impending tappet failure. On =
the last 2 oil changes there was absolutely no metal on the plug.</div><div=
 dir=3D"auto">My procedure initial start procedure was to firstly remove th=
e inner valve springs as I have found that they and the additional pressure=
 that they produce are just not required as my engine exhibits absolutely n=
o sign of valve bounce right up to the red line.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I u=
se Lucas 20/50 break in oil for the 1st 500 miles.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"a=
uto">On first start I held the engine around 1500 RPM for about 20 minutes.=
 (I have difficulty believing that this is necessary but that&#39;s what th=
e experts recommend so you have to be sure that the cooling system is in go=
od shape).</div><div dir=3D"auto">I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 after=
 500 odd miles and then change the oil every 3000 miles.</div><div dir=3D"a=
uto">The engine in B#174 now runs with absolutely NO tappet clatter which i=
s pretty unusual for a 100.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I recently checked the v=
alve clearances and they were unchanged after 2500 miles, another good indi=
cator that the cam and tappets are holding up well.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
I&#39;m sure others have had different experiences but I=C2=A0 would recomm=
end that you make every effort to avoid a cam/tappet failure because rectif=
ication requires a complete engine strip down.</div><div dir=3D"auto">Good =
luck.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div><div dir=3D=
"auto">=C2=A0(Still running perfectly with outer springs only)</div></div><=
br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed.=
, May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. Michael MacLean, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:springer.m=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockqu=
ote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc s=
olid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>As I get closer to starting my=
 100 engine I have yet to replace the modified Denis Welch tappets like a l=
ist member suggested I do.=C2=A0 I got nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS t=
appets from Ahead4Healeys to swap with the installed Welch tappets recently=
.=C2=A0 Now, searching the archives, I=C2=A0 find someone had problems with=
 NOS lifters after 6000 miles. Ruined a cam and the lifters.=C2=A0 So, what=
 am I supposed to do now?=C2=A0 Should I just buy aftermarket tappets?=C2=
=A0 Are the aftermarket tappets hardened correctly?=C2=A0 Why wouldn&#39;t =
the NOS tappets be hardened right?=C2=A0 I don&#39;t want to replace the ca=
m after I get this thing running.</div><div>Mike MacLean<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <=
a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferr=
er">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/heal=
eys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><b=
r>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--00000000000074981705fc70bdbe--

--===============5711965305920663456==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============5711965305920663456==--

---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2023 07:22:07 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============8265293380558308448==
 boundary="------------ULZ0Bh9qbuRZT0lBa8PcUz0F"
Content-Language: en-US

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------ULZ0Bh9qbuRZT0lBa8PcUz0F
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Maybe why DWM sells cams and tappets ('followers') as a set? Installed 
them in my--most recent and, hopefully last--BJ8 overhaul and no issues 
after 7K miles or so.

I don't think you can rule out improper break-in as a cause.

Bob

On 5/24/2023 6:42 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Mike, I am really no expert on this, but having had cam/tappet issues 
> with my ’56 BSA motorcycle (same technology as a Healey) in the past I 
> did look into it about 18 years ago, and Mike Salter and I had a long 
> discussion about cams and tappets when we did my BT7 engine a few 
> years ago.  One thing I was told by a bike engine builder I trust is 
> that the hardness of the cam lobes and the tappets should be the 
> same.  If they are mis-matched, rapid wear can occur.  It _may_ (I am 
> speculating) not be so much that the cam or the tappets are not 
> hardened properly, it is just that they are hardened _differently_. 
>   I eventually ordered the motorcycle cam and tappets from the same 
> source with the promise that they were made to work together.  That 
> seemed to work on the bike.  I think buying a cam and tappets from 
> different sources is not the best idea.
>
> With my BT7, we were lucky, as even after over 100.000 miles, the cam 
> had virtually no wear, and only one tappet showed signs of wear, so 
> that was replaced with an good used original one that Mike had.  So my 
> original cam and 11 of the tappets were re-used (with the tappets put 
> back in the same order as they came out).  Only 2000 miles on the 
> engine, so jury is still out on that, but I just checked  the tappet 
> clearances and so far no signs of wear.  I am surprised that 
> Ahead4Healeys actually have NOS tappets.  Are you sure that they are 
> not re-manufactured?  If they are actually NOS, I would be inclined to 
> use them and find a good original cam to use with them (assuming the 
> original one you have is too worn to re-use).  The fact that my 
> original parts were fine after 100,000 miles are a testament to the 
> quality of the original parts.  Mind you, I am only the second owner 
> of the car, and I knew  the first owner well, and we both performed 
> regular maintenance; that is key to longevity.
>
> Also, I don’t know what you are doing with valve springs and rocker 
> gear.  Remember whenever you deviate from stock, there are 
> repercussions.  Higher lift cams, increased spring pressure, etc., all 
> Good luck with it – these are hard decisions when re-building and 
> there is so much mythology about cams and tappets to sift through.  My 
> personal approach is use original parts whenever I can – they work and 
> they last!
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys <[email-masked]> *On Behalf Of *Michael 
> MacLean
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 24, 2023 8:42 AM
> *To:* Ahealey help <[email-masked]>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Denis Welch Tappets Again
>
> nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to swap 
> with the installed Welch tappets recently.  Now, searching the 
> archives, I  find someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 
> miles. Ruined a cam and the lifters.  So, what am I supposed to do 
> now?  Should I just buy aftermarket tappets?  Are the aftermarket 
> tappets hardened correctly?  Why wouldn't the NOS tappets be hardened 
> right?  I don't want to replace the cam after I get this thing running.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
>

--------------ULZ0Bh9qbuRZT0lBa8PcUz0F
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    Maybe why DWM sells cams and tappets ('followers') as a set?
    Installed them in my--most recent and, hopefully last--BJ8 overhaul
    and no issues after 7K miles or so.<br>
    <br>
    I don't think you can rule out improper break-in as a cause.<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/24/2023 6:42 AM, m.g.sharp--- via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 15 (filtered
        medium)">
      <style>@font-face
	{font-family:"Cambria Math";
	panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}@font-face
	{font-family:Calibri;
	panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
	{margin:0cm;
	font-size:11.0pt;
	font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}span.EmailStyle18
	{mso-style-type:personal-reply;
	font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
	color:windowtext;}.MsoChpDefault
	{mso-style-type:export-only;
	font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;
	mso-ligatures:standardcontextual;
	mso-fareast-language:EN-US;}div.WordSection1
	{page:WordSection1;}</style><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapedefaults v:ext="edit" spidmax="1026" />
</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext="edit">
<o:idmap v:ext="edit" data="1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]-->
      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Mike,
            I am really no expert on this, but having had cam/tappet
            issues with my ’56 BSA motorcycle (same technology as a
            Healey) in the past I did look into it about 18 years ago,
            and Mike Salter and I had a long discussion about cams and
            tappets when we did my BT7 engine a few years ago.  One
            thing I was told by a bike engine builder I trust is that
            the hardness of the cam lobes and the tappets should be the
            same.  If they are mis-matched, rapid wear can occur.  It <u>may</u>
            (I am speculating) not be so much that the cam or the
            tappets are not hardened properly, it is just that they are
            hardened <u>differently</u>.   I eventually ordered the
            motorcycle cam and tappets from the same source with the
            promise that they were made to work together.  That seemed
            to work on the bike.  I think buying a cam and tappets from
            different sources is not the best idea.  <o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">With
            my BT7, we were lucky, as even after over 100.000 miles, the
            cam had virtually no wear, and only one tappet showed signs
            of wear, so that was replaced with an good used original one
            that Mike had.  So my original cam and 11 of the tappets
            were re-used (with the tappets put back in the same order as
            they came out).  Only 2000 miles on the engine, so jury is
            still out on that, but I just checked  the tappet clearances
            and so far no signs of wear.  I am surprised that
            Ahead4Healeys actually have NOS tappets.  Are you sure that
            they are not re-manufactured?  If they are actually NOS, I
            would be inclined to use them and find a good original cam
            to use with them (assuming the original one you have is too
            worn to re-use).  The fact that my original parts were fine
            after 100,000 miles are a testament to the quality of the
            original parts.  Mind you, I am only the second owner of the
            car, and I knew  the first owner well, and we both performed
            regular maintenance; that is key to longevity.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Also,
            I don’t know what you are doing with valve springs and
            rocker gear.  Remember whenever you deviate from stock,
            there are repercussions.  Higher lift cams, increased spring
            pressure, etc., all excerpt additional stresses on cam lobes
            and tappets.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Good
            luck with it – these are hard decisions when re-building and
            there is so much mythology about cams and tappets to sift
            through.  My personal approach is use original parts
            whenever I can – they work and they last!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Cheers,
            Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
          1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
          <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
              lang="EN-US"> Healeys
              <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael
              MacLean<br>
              <b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, May 24, 2023 8:42 AM<br>
              <b>To:</b> Ahealey help <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
              <b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Denis Welch Tappets Again<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal">As I get closer to starting my 100
              engine I have yet to replace the modified Denis Welch
              tappets like a list member suggested I do.  I got nervous,
              so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to
              swap with the installed Welch tappets recently.  Now,
              searching the archives, I  find someone had problems with
              NOS lifters after 6000 miles. Ruined a cam and the
              lifters.  So, what am I supposed to do now?  Should I just
              buy aftermarket tappets?  Are the aftermarket tappets
              hardened correctly?  Why wouldn't the NOS tappets be
              hardened right?  I don't want to replace the cam after I
              get this thing running.<o:p></o:p></p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal">Mike MacLean<o:p></o:p></p>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------ULZ0Bh9qbuRZT0lBa8PcUz0F--

--===============8265293380558308448==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============8265293380558308448==--

---

From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2023 10:44:36 -0400

--===============2071505398333303980==

--000000000000a243bc05fc718bc4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

At the risk of awakening Godzilla from his dormancy I'll go ahead and say
the accursed letters:  *ZDDP*!

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 10:34=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmai=
l.com>
wrote:

> Speaking as someone who has over the years had 2 bouts of tappet failure
> in 100 engines I would suggest that you are wise to be cautious.
> I can't advise on the tappets that you have fitted but can say the I am
> now using sets from A H Spares which are proving to be very satisfactory
> and are different from those I have had problems with.
> very good indicator of impending tappet failure. On the last 2 oil change=
s
> My procedure initial start procedure was to firstly remove the inner valv=
e
> experts recommend so you have to be sure that the cooling system is in go=
od
> shape).
> I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 after 500 odd miles and then change
> the oil every 3000 miles.
> I recently checked the valve clearances and they were unchanged after 250=
0
> miles, another good indicator that the cam and tappets are holding up wel=
l.
> I'm sure others have had different experiences but I  would recommend tha=
t
> On Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. Michael MacLean, <
> [email-masked]> wrote:
>
>> nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to swap wi=
th
>> the installed Welch tappets recently.  Now, searching the archives, I  f=
ind
>> aftermarket tappets?  Are the aftermarket tappets hardened correctly?  W=
hy
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000a243bc05fc718bc4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">At th=
e risk of awakening Godzilla from his dormancy I&#39;ll go ahead and say th=
e accursed letters:=C2=A0 <b><i><u>ZDDP</u></i></b>!</div><div class=3D"gma=
il_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div></div><br><div class=3D"gm=
ail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 10=
:34=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmai=
l_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,20=
4,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Speaking as someone who has over=
 the years had 2 bouts of tappet failure in 100 engines I would suggest tha=
t you are wise to be cautious.<div dir=3D"auto">I can&#39;t advise on the t=
appets that you have fitted but can say the I am now using sets from A H Sp=
ares which are proving to be very satisfactory and are different from those=
 I have had problems with.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I have, in B.#174, a magn=
etic oil drain plug and have found that to be a very good indicator of impe=
nding tappet failure. On the last 2 oil changes there was absolutely no met=
al on the plug.</div><div dir=3D"auto">My procedure initial start procedure=
 was to firstly remove the inner valve springs as I have found that they an=
d the additional pressure that they produce are just not required as my eng=
ine exhibits absolutely no sign of valve bounce right up to the red line.</=
div><div dir=3D"auto">I use Lucas 20/50 break in oil for the 1st 500 miles.=
=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">On first start I held the engine around 1500 =
RPM for about 20 minutes. (I have difficulty believing that this is necessa=
ry but that&#39;s what the experts recommend so you have to be sure that th=
e cooling system is in good shape).</div><div dir=3D"auto">I change to VR1 =
non synthetic 20/50 after 500 odd miles and then change the oil every 3000 =
miles.</div><div dir=3D"auto">The engine in B#174 now runs with absolutely =
NO tappet clatter which is pretty unusual for a 100.</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>I recently checked the valve clearances and they were unchanged after 2500=
 miles, another good indicator that the cam and tappets are holding up well=
.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;m sure others have had different experiences=
 but I=C2=A0 would recommend that you make every effort to avoid a cam/tapp=
et failure because rectification requires a complete engine strip down.</di=
v><div dir=3D"auto">Good luck.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D=
"auto">M</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0(Still running perfectly with outer s=
prings only)</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" cla=
ss=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. Michael MacLean, &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">springer.mike51=
@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding=
-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>As I get closer to starting my 100 engine =
I have yet to replace the modified Denis Welch tappets like a list member s=
uggested I do.=C2=A0 I got nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from =
Ahead4Healeys to swap with the installed Welch tappets recently.=C2=A0 Now,=
 searching the archives, I=C2=A0 find someone had problems with NOS lifters=
 after 6000 miles. Ruined a cam and the lifters.=C2=A0 So, what am I suppos=
ed to do now?=C2=A0 Should I just buy aftermarket tappets?=C2=A0 Are the af=
termarket tappets hardened correctly?=C2=A0 Why wouldn&#39;t the NOS tappet=
s be hardened right?=C2=A0 I don&#39;t want to replace the cam after I get =
this thing running.</div><div>Mike MacLean<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <=
a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_bla=
nk">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/heal=
eys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><b=
r>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"h=
ttp://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
eam.net</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000a243bc05fc718bc4--

--===============2071505398333303980==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============2071505398333303980==--

---

From: David Nock BCS via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2023 09:58:01 -0700

--===============5175821391311216780==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0023_01D98E26.3C73BE20"

------=_NextPart_000_0023_01D98E26.3C73BE20
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We use Driven Break in oil 20/50 for the first 500 miles and then change =
over to Driven GPI 20/50 on all of our engines, and never had a cam =
failure

David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Michael Oritt via Healeys=20
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2023 7:44 AM
To: Michael Salter=20
Cc: Ahealey help=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Denis Welch Tappets Again

At the risk of awakening Godzilla from his dormancy I'll go ahead and =
say the accursed letters:  ZDDP!

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 10:34=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter =
<[email-masked]> wrote:

  Speaking as someone who has over the years had 2 bouts of tappet =
failure in 100 engines I would suggest that you are wise to be cautious. =

  I can't advise on the tappets that you have fitted but can say the I =
am now using sets from A H Spares which are proving to be very =
satisfactory and are different from those I have had problems with.
  I have, in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug and have found that to be =
a very good indicator of impending tappet failure. On the last 2 oil =
changes there was absolutely no metal on the plug.
  My procedure initial start procedure was to firstly remove the inner =
valve springs as I have found that they and the additional pressure that =
they produce are just not required as my engine exhibits absolutely no =
sign of valve bounce right up to the red line.
  I use Lucas 20/50 break in oil for the 1st 500 miles.=20
  On first start I held the engine around 1500 RPM for about 20 minutes. =
(I have difficulty believing that this is necessary but that's what the =
experts recommend so you have to be sure that the cooling system is in =
good shape).
  I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 after 500 odd miles and then =
change the oil every 3000 miles.
  The engine in B#174 now runs with absolutely NO tappet clatter which =
is pretty unusual for a 100.
  I recently checked the valve clearances and they were unchanged after =
2500 miles, another good indicator that the cam and tappets are holding =
up well
  I'm sure others have had different experiences but I  would recommend =
that you make every effort to avoid a cam/tappet failure because =
rectification requires a complete engine strip down.
  Good luck.

  M

  On Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. Michael MacLean, =
<[email-masked]> wrote:

    Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

    [email-masked]

    Unsubscribe/Manage: =

  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

  [email-masked]

  Unsubscribe/Manage: =

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

------=_NextPart_000_0023_01D98E26.3C73BE20
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>We use Driven Break in oil 20/50 for the first 500 miles and then =
change=20
over to Driven GPI 20/50 on all of our engines, and never had a cam=20
failure</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: =
#000000">David=20
Nock<BR>British Car=20
Specialists<BR>209-948-8767<BR>www.britishcarspecialists.com</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
title=[email-masked]>Michael Oritt via Healeys</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, May 24, 2023 7:44 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]>Michael Salter</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=[email-masked]>Ahealey help</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Denis Welch Tappets =
Again</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff">At the risk of =
awakening=20
Godzilla from his dormancy I'll go ahead and say the accursed =
letters:&nbsp;=20
<B><I><U>ZDDP</U></I></B>!</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff">&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff">Best--Michael =
Oritt</DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_attr dir=3Dltr>On Wed, May 24, 2023 at =
10:34=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter=20
&lt;<A>[email-masked]</A>&gt; wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; =
MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
  <DIV>Speaking as someone who has over the years had 2 bouts of tappet =
failure=20
  in 100 engines I would suggest that you are wise to be cautious.=20
  <DIV>I can't advise on the tappets that you have fitted but can say =
the I am=20
  now using sets from A H Spares which are proving to be very =
satisfactory and=20
  are different from those I have had problems with.</DIV>
  <DIV>I have, in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug and have found that =
to be a=20
  very good indicator of impending tappet failure. On the last 2 oil =
changes=20
  there was absolutely no metal on the plug.</DIV>
  <DIV>My procedure initial start procedure was to firstly remove the =
inner=20
  valve springs as I have found that they and the additional pressure =
that they=20
  produce are just not required as my engine exhibits absolutely no sign =
of=20
  valve bounce right up to the red line.</DIV>
  <DIV>I use Lucas 20/50 break in oil for the 1st 500 miles. </DIV>
  <DIV>On first start I held the engine around 1500 RPM for about 20 =
minutes. (I=20
  have difficulty believing that this is necessary but that's what the =
experts=20
  recommend so you have to be sure that the cooling system is in good=20
  shape).</DIV>
  <DIV>I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 after 500 odd miles and then =
change=20
  the oil every 3000 miles.</DIV>
  <DIV>The engine in B#174 now runs with absolutely NO tappet clatter =
which is=20
  pretty unusual for a 100.</DIV>
  <DIV>I recently checked the valve clearances and they were unchanged =
after=20
  2500 miles, another good indicator that the cam and tappets are =
holding up=20
  well</DIV>
  <DIV>I'm sure others have had different experiences but I&nbsp; would=20
  recommend that you make every effort to avoid a cam/tappet failure =
because=20
  rectification requires a complete engine strip down.</DIV>
  <DIV>Good luck.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>M</DIV>
  <DIV>(Still running perfectly with outer springs only)</DIV></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>
  <DIV class=3Dgmail_attr dir=3Dltr>On Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. =
Michael=20
  MacLean, &lt;<A target=3D_blank>[email-masked]</A>&gt;=20
  wrote:<BR></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
  style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; =
MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
    <DIV dir=3Dltr>
    <DIV>As I get closer to starting my 100 engine I have yet to replace =
the=20
    modified Denis Welch tappets like a list member suggested I =
do.&nbsp; I got=20
    nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to =
swap with=20
    the installed Welch tappets recently.&nbsp; Now, searching the =
archives,=20
    I&nbsp; find someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 miles. =
Ruined=20
    a cam and the lifters.&nbsp; So, what am I supposed to do now?&nbsp; =
Should=20
    I just buy aftermarket tappets?&nbsp; Are the aftermarket tappets =
hardened=20
    correctly?&nbsp; Why wouldn't the NOS tappets be hardened =
right?&nbsp; I=20
    don't want to replace the cam after I get this thing running.</DIV>
    <DIV>Mike=20
    =
MacLean<BR></DIV></DIV>_______________________________________________<BR=
>Support=20
    Team.Net <A href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"=20
    rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer"=20
    target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/donate.html</A><BR>Suggested =
annual=20
    donation&nbsp; $12.75<BR><BR>Archive: <A=20
    href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer =
noreferrer"=20
    target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</A> <A=20
    href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer =
noreferrer"=20
    target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</A><BR><BR><A=20
    rel=3Dnoreferrer target=3D_blank>[email-masked]</A><BR><A=20
    href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys"=20
    rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer"=20
    =
target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</A><BR><BR=
>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
    <A=20
    =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail=
.com"=20
    rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer"=20
    =
target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalt=
[email-masked]</A><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>______________________________=
_________________<BR>Support=20
  Team.Net <A href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3Dnoreferrer=20
  target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/donate.html</A><BR>Suggested =
annual=20
  donation&nbsp; $12.75<BR><BR>Archive: <A=20
  href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3Dnoreferrer=20
  target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</A> <A=20
  href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3Dnoreferrer=20
  target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</A><BR><BR><A=20
  target=3D_blank>[email-masked]</A><BR><A=20
  href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" =
rel=3Dnoreferrer=20
  =
target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</A><BR><BR=
>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
  <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail=
.com"=20
  rel=3Dnoreferrer=20
  =
target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.ori=
[email-masked]</A><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
_______________________________________________<BR>Support Team.Net=20
$12.75<BR><BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys=20
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys<BR><BR>[email-masked]<BR>ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<BR><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<BR>=
<BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0023_01D98E26.3C73BE20--

--===============5175821391311216780==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============5175821391311216780==--

---

From: Michael MacLean <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2023 13:05:59 -0700

--===============0554482489744187470==

--00000000000002c24705fc760955
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Mirek,
     I am kind of at a disadvantage.  The engine I have is assembled from
parts from many engines.  Nothing is original to anything in the engine.
The head came off a 100M that had a bent valve, so there is one valve guide
that is larger in diameter than the other seven.  Even the two rear main
caps are from another engine.  I did have it line bored.  Where I would get
an original cam I don't know.  The best I can do is have the cam lobes
hardened by the people that ground it for me. (they were not hardened when
it was ground originally) and use the OEM tappets I have on order.  After
that, carefully break it in. I appreciate your input.
Mike MacLean

On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 6:42=E2=80=AFAM <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Mike, I am really no expert on this, but having had cam/tappet issues wit=
h
> my =E2=80=9956 BSA motorcycle (same technology as a Healey) in the past I=
 did look
> into it about 18 years ago, and Mike Salter and I had a long discussion
> about cams and tappets when we did my BT7 engine a few years ago.  One
> thing I was told by a bike engine builder I trust is that the hardness of
> the cam lobes and the tappets should be the same.  If they are mis-matche=
d,
> rapid wear can occur.  It *may* (I am speculating) not be so much that
> the cam or the tappets are not hardened properly, it is just that they ar=
e
> hardened *differently*.   I eventually ordered the motorcycle cam and
> tappets from the same source with the promise that they were made to work
> together.  That seemed to work on the bike.  I think buying a cam and
> tappets from different sources is not the best idea.
>
>
>
> With my BT7, we were lucky, as even after over 100.000 miles, the cam had
> virtually no wear, and only one tappet showed signs of wear, so that was
> replaced with an good used original one that Mike had.  So my original ca=
m
> and 11 of the tappets were re-used (with the tappets put back in the same
> order as they came out).  Only 2000 miles on the engine, so jury is still
> out on that, but I just checked  the tappet clearances and so far no sign=
s
> of wear.  I am surprised that Ahead4Healeys actually have NOS tappets.  A=
re
> you sure that they are not re-manufactured?  If they are actually NOS, I
> would be inclined to use them and find a good original cam to use with th=
em
> (assuming the original one you have is too worn to re-use).  The fact tha=
t
> my original parts were fine after 100,000 miles are a testament to the
> quality of the original parts.  Mind you, I am only the second owner of t=
he
> car, and I knew  the first owner well, and we both performed regular
> Also, I don=E2=80=99t know what you are doing with valve springs and rock=
er gear.
> Remember whenever you deviate from stock, there are repercussions.  Highe=
r
> lift cams, increased spring pressure, etc., all excerpt additional stress=
es
> on cam lobes and tappets.
>
>
>
> Good luck with it =E2=80=93 these are hard decisions when re-building and=
 there is
> so much mythology about cams and tappets to sift through.  My personal
> approach is use original parts whenever I can =E2=80=93 they work and the=
y last!
>
>
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <[email-masked]> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> MacLean
> nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to swap wit=
h
> the installed Welch tappets recently.  Now, searching the archives, I  fi=
nd
> aftermarket tappets?  Are the aftermarket tappets hardened correctly?  Wh=
y
> cam after I get this thing running.

--00000000000002c24705fc760955
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Mirek,</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 I am kind o=
f at a disadvantage.=C2=A0 The engine I have is assembled from parts from m=
any engines.=C2=A0 Nothing is original to anything in the engine.=C2=A0 The=
 head came off a 100M that had a bent valve, so there is one valve guide th=
at is larger in diameter than the other seven.=C2=A0 Even the two rear main=
 caps are from another engine.=C2=A0 I did have it line bored.=C2=A0 Where =
I would get an original cam I don&#39;t know.=C2=A0 The best I can do is ha=
ve the cam lobes hardened by the people that ground it for me. (they were n=
ot hardened when it was ground originally) and use the OEM tappets I have o=
n order.=C2=A0 After that, carefully break it in. I appreciate your input.<=
/div><div>Mike MacLean<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div d=
ir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 6:42=E2=80=AFAM &lt=
;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; w=
rote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0p=
x 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div class=
=3D"msg-4535351761475103876"><div style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word;" lang=
=3D"EN-CA"><div class=3D"m_-4535351761475103876WordSection1"><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><span>Mike, I am really no expert on this, but having had cam/tapp=
et issues with my =E2=80=9956 BSA motorcycle (same technology as a Healey) =
in the past I did look into it about 18 years ago, and Mike Salter and I ha=
d a long discussion about cams and tappets when we did my BT7 engine a few =
years ago.=C2=A0 One thing I was told by a bike engine builder I trust is t=
hat the hardness of the cam lobes and the tappets should be the same.=C2=A0=
 If they are mis-matched, rapid wear can occur.=C2=A0 It <u>may</u> (I am s=
peculating) not be so much that the cam or the tappets are not hardened pro=
perly, it is just that they are hardened <u>differently</u>. =C2=A0=C2=A0I =
eventually ordered the motorcycle cam and tappets from the same source with=
 the promise that they were made to work together.=C2=A0 That seemed to wor=
k on the bike.=C2=A0 I think buying a cam and tappets from different source=
s is not the best idea.=C2=A0 <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>With m=
y BT7, we were lucky, as even after over 100.000 miles, the cam had virtual=
ly no wear, and only one tappet showed signs of wear, so that was replaced =
with an good used original one that Mike had.=C2=A0 So my original cam and =
11 of the tappets were re-used (with the tappets put back in the same order=
 as they came out).=C2=A0 Only 2000 miles on the engine, so jury is still o=
ut on that, but I just checked=C2=A0 the tappet clearances and so far no si=
gns of wear.=C2=A0 I am surprised that Ahead4Healeys actually have NOS tapp=
ets.=C2=A0 Are you sure that they are not re-manufactured?=C2=A0 If they ar=
e actually NOS, I would be inclined to use them and find a good original ca=
m to use with them (assuming the original one you have is too worn to re-us=
e).=C2=A0 The fact that my original parts were fine after 100,000 miles are=
 a testament to the quality of the original parts.=C2=A0 Mind you, I am onl=
y the second owner of the car, and I knew=C2=A0 the first owner well, and w=
e both performed regular maintenance; that is key to longevity.<u></u><u></=
u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p=
 class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Also, I don=E2=80=99t know what you are doing wi=
th valve springs and rocker gear.=C2=A0 Remember whenever you deviate from =
stock, there are repercussions.=C2=A0 Higher lift cams, increased spring pr=
essure, etc., all excerpt additional stresses on cam lobes and tappets.<u><=
/u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></spa=
n></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Good luck with it =E2=80=93 these are ha=
rd decisions when re-building and there is so much mythology about cams and=
 tappets to sift through.=C2=A0 My personal approach is use original parts =
whenever I can =E2=80=93 they work and they last!<u></u><u></u></span></p><=
p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoN=
ormal"><span>Cheers, Mirek<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><=
span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><div style=3D"border-color:rgb(225,225,=
225) currentcolor currentcolor;border-style:solid none none;border-width:1p=
t medium medium;padding:3pt 0cm 0cm"><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span lang=
=3D"EN-US">From:</span></b><span lang=3D"EN-US"> Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mai=
lto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">healeys-bounces@autox=
.team.net</a>&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael MacLean<br><b>Sent:</b> Wedne=
sday, May 24, 2023 8:42 AM<br><b>To:</b> Ahealey help &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<b=
r><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Denis Welch Tappets Again<u></u><u></u></span><=
/p></div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div><div><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal">As I get closer to starting my 100 engine I have yet to repl=
ace the modified Denis Welch tappets like a list member suggested I do.=C2=
=A0 I got nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to =
swap with the installed Welch tappets recently.=C2=A0 Now, searching the ar=
chives, I=C2=A0 find someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 miles=
. Ruined a cam and the lifters.=C2=A0 So, what am I supposed to do now?=C2=
=A0 Should I just buy aftermarket tappets?=C2=A0 Are the aftermarket tappet=
s hardened correctly?=C2=A0 Why wouldn&#39;t the NOS tappets be hardened ri=
ght?=C2=A0 I don&#39;t want to replace the cam after I get this thing runni=
ng.<u></u><u></u></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Mike MacLean<u></u><=
u></u></p></div></div></div></div></div></blockquote></div>

--00000000000002c24705fc760955--

--===============0554482489744187470==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============0554482489744187470==--

---

From: Michael MacLean <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2023 13:08:04 -0700

--===============5135467120167164470==

--0000000000006d6dbb05fc7610f9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

This thread got me thinking.  I had the cam ground at a reputable cam
grinder locally. (Web Cams) They have been grinding cams for Healeys since
the 60s.  I just got off the phone with them and asked if they had hardened
the lobes of the cam they ground for me.  When they looked it up the
paperwork showed the cam was simply ground, not hardened.  They will harden
it for $50.  Of course it has to come out of the assembled engine first.
Also Michael, the very experienced Healey engine builder that built my
short block, who has since passed away, told me to use the old used springs
for the valves.  He said it would tick over nicely at 700 rpm.  Of course
through conflicting information I installed new double springs.   I still
have the old springs.  As long as I will be taking this all apart again, I
might as well put just the outer set of used springs back on the head.
Mike MacLean

On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 6:47=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail=
.com>

s
e
od
0
l.
t
th
ind
hy
>> cam after I get this thing running.

--0000000000006d6dbb05fc7610f9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>This thread got me thinking.=C2=A0 I had the cam grou=
nd at a reputable cam grinder locally. (Web Cams) They have been grinding c=
ams for Healeys since the 60s.=C2=A0 I just got off the phone with them and=
 asked if they had hardened the lobes of the cam they ground for me.=C2=A0 =
When they looked it up the paperwork showed the cam was simply ground, not =
hardened.=C2=A0 They will harden it for $50.=C2=A0 Of course it has to come=
 out of the assembled engine first.=C2=A0 Also Michael, the very experience=
d Healey engine builder that built my short block, who has since passed awa=
y, told me to use the old used springs for the valves.=C2=A0 He said it wou=
ld tick over nicely at 700 rpm.=C2=A0 Of course through conflicting informa=
tion I installed new double springs. =C2=A0 I still have the old springs.=
=C2=A0 As long as I will be taking this all apart again, I might as well pu=
t just the outer set of used springs back on the head.</div><div>Mike MacLe=
an<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"=
gmail_attr">On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 6:47=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">michaelsalter@gmai=
l.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"ma=
rgin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:=
1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Speaking as someone who has over the years had 2 bou=
ts of tappet failure in 100 engines I would suggest that you are wise to be=
 cautious.<div dir=3D"auto">I can&#39;t advise on the tappets that you have=
 fitted but can say the I am now using sets from A H Spares which are provi=
ng to be very satisfactory and are different from those I have had problems=
 with.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I have, in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug =
and have found that to be a very good indicator of impending tappet failure=
. On the last 2 oil changes there was absolutely no metal on the plug.</div=
><div dir=3D"auto">My procedure initial start procedure was to firstly remo=
ve the inner valve springs as I have found that they and the additional pre=
ssure that they produce are just not required as my engine exhibits absolut=
ely no sign of valve bounce right up to the red line.</div><div dir=3D"auto=
">I use Lucas 20/50 break in oil for the 1st 500 miles.=C2=A0</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">On first start I held the engine around 1500 RPM for about 20 min=
utes. (I have difficulty believing that this is necessary but that&#39;s wh=
at the experts recommend so you have to be sure that the cooling system is =
in good shape).</div><div dir=3D"auto">I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 =
after 500 odd miles and then change the oil every 3000 miles.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">The engine in B#174 now runs with absolutely NO tappet clatter wh=
ich is pretty unusual for a 100.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I recently checked =
the valve clearances and they were unchanged after 2500 miles, another good=
 indicator that the cam and tappets are holding up well.</div><div dir=3D"a=
uto">I&#39;m sure others have had different experiences but I=C2=A0 would r=
ecommend that you make every effort to avoid a cam/tappet failure because r=
ectification requires a complete engine strip down.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
Good luck.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div><div d=
ir=3D"auto">=C2=A0(Still running perfectly with outer springs only)</div></=
div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On=
 Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. Michael MacLean, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:sprin=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; w=
rote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0p=
x 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=
=3D"ltr"><div>As I get closer to starting my 100 engine I have yet to repla=
ce the modified Denis Welch tappets like a list member suggested I do.=C2=
=A0 I got nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to =
swap with the installed Welch tappets recently.=C2=A0 Now, searching the ar=
chives, I=C2=A0 find someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 miles=
. Ruined a cam and the lifters.=C2=A0 So, what am I supposed to do now?=C2=
=A0 Should I just buy aftermarket tappets?=C2=A0 Are the aftermarket tappet=
s hardened correctly?=C2=A0 Why wouldn&#39;t the NOS tappets be hardened ri=
ght?=C2=A0 I don&#39;t want to replace the cam after I get this thing runni=
ng.</div><div>Mike MacLean<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <=
a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_bla=
nk">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/heal=
eys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><b=
r>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>

--0000000000006d6dbb05fc7610f9--

--===============5135467120167164470==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============5135467120167164470==--

---

From: richard mayor <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 24 May 2023 14:19:14 -0700

--===============0407196894860446751==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_0C6AC1E5-5B98-4D70-9CBC-0A7E9265F9D7"

--Apple-Mail=_0C6AC1E5-5B98-4D70-9CBC-0A7E9265F9D7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

Forgive my ignorance here but I have never heard of a cam being =
=E2=80=9Chardened=E2=80=9D.  As racer for many years and with many race =
engine builds under my belt I have had cams and lifters (and many other =
engine parts) cryogenically treated.=20

I know cranks are hardened by nitriding.  But I=E2=80=99ve never know =
anyone to nitride a cam.=20

Richard Mayor
[email-masked]

> On May 24, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Michael MacLean =
<[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> This thread got me thinking.  I had the cam ground at a reputable cam =
grinder locally. (Web Cams) They have been grinding cams for Healeys =
since the 60s.  I just got off the phone with them and asked if they had =
hardened the lobes of the cam they ground for me.  When they looked it =
up the paperwork showed the cam was simply ground, not hardened.  They =
will harden it for $50.  Of course it has to come out of the assembled =
engine first.  Also Michael, the very experienced Healey engine builder =
that built my short block, who has since passed away, told me to use the =
old used springs for the valves.  He said it would tick over nicely at =
700 rpm.  Of course through conflicting information I installed new =
double springs.   I still have the old springs.  As long as I will be =
taking this all apart again, I might as well put just the outer set of =
used springs back on the head.
> Mike MacLean
>=20
> On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 6:47=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter =
failure in 100 engines I would suggest that you are wise to be cautious.
>> I have, in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug and have found that to =
be a very good indicator of impending tappet failure. On the last 2 oil =
changes there was absolutely no metal on the plug.
>> On first start I held the engine around 1500 RPM for about 20 =
minutes. (I have difficulty believing that this is necessary but that's =
what the experts recommend so you have to be sure that the cooling =
system is in good shape).
up well.
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

--Apple-Mail=_0C6AC1E5-5B98-4D70-9CBC-0A7E9265F9D7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;">Forgive my =
ignorance here but I have never heard of a cam being =E2=80=9Chardened=E2=80=
=9D. &nbsp;As racer for many years and with many race engine builds =
under my belt I have had cams and lifters (and many other engine parts) =
cryogenically treated.&nbsp;<div><br></div><div>I know cranks are =
hardened by nitriding. &nbsp;But I=E2=80=99ve never know anyone to =
nitride a cam.&nbsp;<br><div><br></div><div><div><div><br><div>
<div>Richard =
Mayor</div><div>[email-masked]</div><div><br></div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline">

</div>
<div><br><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>On May 24, 2023, at 1:08 PM, =
Michael MacLean &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>This =
thread got me thinking.&nbsp; I had the cam ground at a reputable cam =
grinder locally. (Web Cams) They have been grinding cams for Healeys =
since the 60s.&nbsp; I just got off the phone with them and asked if =
they had hardened the lobes of the cam they ground for me.&nbsp; When =
they looked it up the paperwork showed the cam was simply ground, not =
hardened.&nbsp; They will harden it for $50.&nbsp; Of course it has to =
come out of the assembled engine first.&nbsp; Also Michael, the very =
experienced Healey engine builder that built my short block, who has =
since passed away, told me to use the old used springs for the =
valves.&nbsp; He said it would tick over nicely at 700 rpm.&nbsp; Of =
course through conflicting information I installed new double springs. =
&nbsp; I still have the old springs.&nbsp; As long as I will be taking =
this all apart again, I might as well put just the outer set of used =
springs back on the head.</div><div>Mike MacLean<br></div></div><br><div =
class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, May =
24, 2023 at 6:47=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Speaking as someone =
who has over the years had 2 bouts of tappet failure in 100 engines I =
would suggest that you are wise to be cautious.<div dir=3D"auto">I can't =
advise on the tappets that you have fitted but can say the I am now =
using sets from A H Spares which are proving to be very satisfactory and =
are different from those I have had problems with.</div><div =
dir=3D"auto">I have, in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug and have found =
that to be a very good indicator of impending tappet failure. On the =
last 2 oil changes there was absolutely no metal on the plug.</div><div =
dir=3D"auto">My procedure initial start procedure was to firstly remove =
the inner valve springs as I have found that they and the additional =
pressure that they produce are just not required as my engine exhibits =
absolutely no sign of valve bounce right up to the red line.</div><div =
dir=3D"auto">I use Lucas 20/50 break in oil for the 1st 500 =
miles.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"auto">On first start I held the engine =
around 1500 RPM for about 20 minutes. (I have difficulty believing that =
this is necessary but that's what the experts recommend so you have to =
be sure that the cooling system is in good shape).</div><div =
dir=3D"auto">I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 after 500 odd miles and =
then change the oil every 3000 miles.</div><div dir=3D"auto">The engine =
in B#174 now runs with absolutely NO tappet clatter which is pretty =
unusual for a 100.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I recently checked the valve =
clearances and they were unchanged after 2500 miles, another good =
indicator that the cam and tappets are holding up well.</div><div =
dir=3D"auto">I'm sure others have had different experiences but I&nbsp; =
would recommend that you make every effort to avoid a cam/tappet failure =
because rectification requires a complete engine strip down.</div><div =
dir=3D"auto">Good luck.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div =
dir=3D"auto">M</div><div dir=3D"auto">&nbsp;(Still running perfectly =
with outer springs only)</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. =
Michael MacLean, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>As I get closer =
to starting my 100 engine I have yet to replace the modified Denis Welch =
tappets like a list member suggested I do.&nbsp; I got nervous, so I =
ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to swap with the =
installed Welch tappets recently.&nbsp; Now, searching the archives, =
I&nbsp; find someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 miles. =
Ruined a cam and the lifters.&nbsp; So, what am I supposed to do =
now?&nbsp; Should I just buy aftermarket tappets?&nbsp; Are the =
aftermarket tappets hardened correctly?&nbsp; Why wouldn't the NOS =
tappets be hardened right?&nbsp; I don't want to replace the cam after I =
get this thing running.</div><div>Mike MacLean<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" =
rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer =
noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" =
rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.=
com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsal=
[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
_______________________________________________<br>Support Team.Net =
&nbsp;$12.75<br><br>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys<br><br>[email-masked]<br>htt=
p://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br><br=
></div></blockquote></div><br></div></div></div></div></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_0C6AC1E5-5B98-4D70-9CBC-0A7E9265F9D7--

--===============0407196894860446751==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============0407196894860446751==--

---

From: Michael MacLean <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 27 May 2023 12:09:15 -0700

--===============3440694210508681908==

--000000000000a15e3f05fcb197f5
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Just got off the phone with David Anton of APT.  According to David the
original cams in big Healey engines are hardened all the way through.
Re-grinding a profile in an old cam will not be a problem with hardness.
In fact, As David explained to me, typically tappets are supposed to be 5
points harder than the cam surface.  He told me to just run it.  David also
said any damage to the cam or lifters is done in that first 20 minutes of
break in. Any subsequent damage would show up in filings in the oil and
having to keep re-adjusting the rockers.  I guess a magnetic drain plug is
next to add to my parts order.  Kind of sorry I started this thread, but it
was quite an education.  When I started researching timing the cam for
reinstallation my head hurt from all the variables and figuring to be
done.  I am not an engine builder.  I can assemble and install a head,
adjust the valves, change the oil, adjust the timing with the distributor
and install a clutch, but my expertise kind of ends there.  I certainly
appreciate all the input of the list though.  Knowledge of these engines is
not something I can go to the local mechanic about.
Mike MacLean

s
e
od
0
l.
t
th
ind
hy
>> cam after I get this thing running.

--000000000000a15e3f05fcb197f5
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Just got off the phone with David Anton of APT.=C2=A0=
 According to David the original cams in big Healey engines are hardened al=
l the way through.=C2=A0 Re-grinding a profile in an old cam will not be a =
problem with hardness.=C2=A0 In fact, As David explained to me, typically t=
appets are supposed to be 5 points harder than the cam surface.=C2=A0 He to=
ld me to just run it.=C2=A0 David also said any damage to the cam or lifter=
s is done in that first 20 minutes of break in. Any subsequent damage would=
 show up in filings in the oil and having to keep re-adjusting the rockers.=
=C2=A0 I guess a magnetic drain plug is next to add to my parts order.=C2=
=A0 Kind of sorry I started this thread, but it was quite an education.=C2=
=A0 When I started researching timing the cam for reinstallation my head hu=
rt from all the variables and figuring to be done.=C2=A0 I am not an engine=
 builder.=C2=A0 I can assemble and install a head, adjust the valves, chang=
e the oil, adjust the timing with the distributor and install a clutch, but=
 my expertise kind of ends there.=C2=A0 I certainly appreciate all the inpu=
t of the list though.=C2=A0 Knowledge of these engines is not something I c=
an go to the local mechanic about.</div><div>Mike MacLean<br></div></div><b=
r><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, =
May 24, 2023 at 6:47=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:michae=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockqu=
ote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px=
 solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Speaking as som=
eone who has over the years had 2 bouts of tappet failure in 100 engines I =
would suggest that you are wise to be cautious.<div dir=3D"auto">I can&#39;=
t advise on the tappets that you have fitted but can say the I am now using=
 sets from A H Spares which are proving to be very satisfactory and are dif=
ferent from those I have had problems with.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I have, =
in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug and have found that to be a very good =
indicator of impending tappet failure. On the last 2 oil changes there was =
absolutely no metal on the plug.</div><div dir=3D"auto">My procedure initia=
l start procedure was to firstly remove the inner valve springs as I have f=
ound that they and the additional pressure that they produce are just not r=
equired as my engine exhibits absolutely no sign of valve bounce right up t=
o the red line.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I use Lucas 20/50 break in oil for t=
he 1st 500 miles.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">On first start I held the en=
gine around 1500 RPM for about 20 minutes. (I have difficulty believing tha=
t this is necessary but that&#39;s what the experts recommend so you have t=
o be sure that the cooling system is in good shape).</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 after 500 odd miles and then change th=
e oil every 3000 miles.</div><div dir=3D"auto">The engine in B#174 now runs=
 with absolutely NO tappet clatter which is pretty unusual for a 100.</div>=
<div dir=3D"auto">I recently checked the valve clearances and they were unc=
hanged after 2500 miles, another good indicator that the cam and tappets ar=
e holding up well.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;m sure others have had diff=
erent experiences but I=C2=A0 would recommend that you make every effort to=
 avoid a cam/tappet failure because rectification requires a complete engin=
e strip down.</div><div dir=3D"auto">Good luck.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div><div dir=3D"auto">=C2=A0(Still running perfe=
ctly with outer springs only)</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><di=
v dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. Michael=
 MacLean, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank=
">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gm=
ail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,=
204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>As I get closer to startin=
g my 100 engine I have yet to replace the modified Denis Welch tappets like=
 a list member suggested I do.=C2=A0 I got nervous, so I ordered a set of N=
OS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to swap with the installed Welch tappets rece=
ntly.=C2=A0 Now, searching the archives, I=C2=A0 find someone had problems =
with NOS lifters after 6000 miles. Ruined a cam and the lifters.=C2=A0 So, =
what am I supposed to do now?=C2=A0 Should I just buy aftermarket tappets?=
=C2=A0 Are the aftermarket tappets hardened correctly?=C2=A0 Why wouldn&#39=
;t the NOS tappets be hardened right?=C2=A0 I don&#39;t want to replace the=
 cam after I get this thing running.</div><div>Mike MacLean<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <=
a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferr=
er" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_bla=
nk">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/heal=
eys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><b=
r>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>

--000000000000a15e3f05fcb197f5--

--===============3440694210508681908==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

[email-masked]

--===============3440694210508681908==--