Subject: [Healeys] Frame rotisserie

From: Ian Hey via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2021 18:38:21 -0000

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Michael et al

I do not know the height of the CG above a datum, say the chassis top, but
my frame did allow me to turn the car on my own by hand, and I never thought
that I was taking a risk by doing so.  My car has not been on the rotisserie
for a couple of years at least, so I cannot remember how close to the CG my
system was.  It was not spot on, since some rotations required more effort
(and care) than others.  Although a fairly large creature (over 6 ft) I am
now old and my strength is going, but I was never afraid to turn the
chassis.

The system shown in the photos will only work for a bare chassis.  With the
shrouds fitted, the front pivot will need to move forward to clear the
shroud.  The rear may need the same.  Each action will raise the pivot
point, so will probably keep the pivot close to the CG.  However I cannot
remember that I ever used my rotisserie with the body panels fitted.

Michael, I will look at dimensions of pivot points tomorrow, and make
another response.

Ian

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class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Michael et al<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I do not =
know the height of the CG above a datum, say the chassis top, but my =
frame did allow me to turn the car on my own by hand, and I never =
thought that I was taking a risk by doing so.&nbsp; My car has not been =
on the rotisserie for a couple of years at least, so I cannot remember =
how close to the CG my system was.&nbsp; It was not spot on, since some =
rotations required more effort (and care) than others.&nbsp; Although a =
fairly large creature (over 6 ft) I am now old and my strength is going, =
but I was never afraid to turn the chassis.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>The system =
shown in the photos will only work for a bare chassis.&nbsp; With the =
shrouds fitted, the front pivot will need to move forward to clear the =
shroud.&nbsp; The rear may need the same.&nbsp; Each action will raise =
the pivot point, so will probably keep the pivot close to the CG.&nbsp; =
However I cannot remember that I ever used my rotisserie with the body =
panels fitted.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Michael, I =
will look at dimensions of pivot points tomorrow, and make another =
response.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Ian<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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From: Ray Juncal via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2021 03:19:36 +0000 (UTC)

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 Michael=C2=A0=C2=A0 I used the bumper bracket mounts with some heavy duty =
engine stand type end mounts. They were dual duty rotisserie / engine stand=
s I got from a pro restorer friend. The frame attachments were made to work=
 with the front and rear shrouds in place.=C2=A0 (see photos) Your comment =
about the rear mounts look "almost" strong enough is right. When my frame c=
ame back from the media blaster they had jammed the rear roller and bent th=
e bumper mounts. It was an easy fix and I added a plate on the bottom to bo=
x the sheet metal channel fabrication for added strength. Be careful when y=
ou move it around and or clamp a bar between the two end "engine stands". N=
o problem on the smooth floor at my shop but would add the bar if it went t=
o the paint shop or where I had any doubts. My center is 5 1/2" above the t=
op of the frame and no effort through 360 degrees.I hope this helps.Ray Jun=
cal

 =20
=20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydpd529b65dyahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px=
;"><div></div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Michael</div><div dir=3D"ltr=
" data-setdir=3D"false">&nbsp;&nbsp; I used the bumper bracket mounts with =
some heavy duty engine stand type end mounts. They were dual duty rotisseri=
e / engine stands I got from a pro restorer friend. The frame attachments w=
ere made to work with the front and rear shrouds in place.&nbsp; (see photo=
s) Your comment about the rear mounts look "almost" strong enough is right.=
 When my frame came back from the media blaster they had jammed the rear ro=
ller and bent the bumper mounts. It was an easy fix and I added a plate on =
the bottom to box the sheet metal channel fabrication for added strength. B=
e careful when you move it around and or clamp a bar between the two end "e=
ngine stands". No problem on the smooth floor at my shop but would add the =
bar if it went to the paint shop or where I had any doubts. My center is 5 =
1/2" above the top of the frame and no effort through 360 degrees.</div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I hope this helps.</div><div dir=3D"ltr=
" data-setdir=3D"false">Ray Juncal<br></div><div><br></div>
       =20
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2580abyahoo_quoted">
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ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;"><br></div>
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