Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake

From: healeyguy--- via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 22:52:53 +0000 (UTC)

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NeilMaybe its not the cylinder retracting in the bore. Does the cylinder bo=
dy slide easily in the backing plate?=C2=A0P

-----Original Message-----
From: Healey <[email-masked]>
To: Austin Healey <[email-masked]>
Sent: Mon, Jul 5, 2021 6:37 pm
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake

=C2=A0I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder=C2=A0(drivers sid=
e) earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that=
 on its inaugural=C2=A0run, it became quickly apparent that things were not=
 right.=C2=A0=C2=A0Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cyli=
nder=C2=A0was not retracting properly.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Group wisdom from the in=
ternet says you need to replace the rubber pipe.No problem - except there i=
s only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to=C2=A0feed both r=
ear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the passenge=
r side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ. Driver's side spring is o=
k btw.=C2=A0So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pip=
e was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both re=
ar brakes, not just one of them?
=C2=A0 Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder=
=C2=A0from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder=C2=A0@ $1=
4 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder=C2=A0@ $70), or do I replace both? o=
r?
=C2=A0 Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly=
 worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
=C2=A0 Thanks in advance,
Neil=C2=A0_______________________________________________

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<div style="color:black;font: 10pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Neil
<div>Maybe its not the cylinder retracting in the bore. Does the cylinder body slide easily in the backing plate?&nbsp;</div>

<div>P<br>
<br>
<br>

<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font size="2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Healey &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: Austin Healey &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Mon, Jul 5, 2021 6:37 pm<br>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake<br>
<br>

<div id="yiv1478637812">
<div dir="ltr">&nbsp;I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder&nbsp;(drivers side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &amp; adjustment, except that on its inaugural&nbsp;run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.&nbsp;
<div>&nbsp;Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder&nbsp;was not retracting properly.&nbsp;</div>

<div>&nbsp; Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to&nbsp;feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.</div>

<div>&nbsp;So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>&nbsp; Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder&nbsp;from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder&nbsp;@ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder&nbsp;@ $70), or do I replace both? or?</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>&nbsp; Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly worn &amp; about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>&nbsp; Thanks in advance,</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>Neil</div>

<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>

</div>
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From: Healey <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 16:31:54 -0700

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Its definitely the bore not retracting by itself.
It will go back with the assistance of some slip joint pliers fwiw

On Monday, July 5, 2021, <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Neil
> Maybe its not the cylinder retracting in the bore. Does the cylinder body
> slide easily in the backing plate?
> P
>
>
>  I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
> its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
>  Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
> retracting properly.
>   Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
> goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
> driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
> champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>  So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
> brakes, not just one of them?
>
>   Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder from
> Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14 as opposed to
> the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>
>   Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
>   Thanks in advance,
> Neil
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

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Its definitely the bore not retracting by itself.<div>It will go back with =
the assistance of some slip joint pliers fwiw<br><br>On Monday, July 5, 202=
1,  &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrot=
e:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-l=
eft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div style=3D"color:black;font:10pt Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">Neil
<div>Maybe its not the cylinder retracting in the bore. Does the cylinder b=
ody slide easily in the backing plate?=C2=A0</div>

<div>P<br>
<br>
<br>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
 size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Healey &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">67=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
To: Austin Healey &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_=
blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
Sent: Mon, Jul 5, 2021 6:37 pm<br>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake<br>
<br>

<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">=C2=A0I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder=
=C2=A0(drivers side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &amp; a=
djustment, except that on its inaugural=C2=A0run, it became quickly apparen=
t that things were not right.=C2=A0
<div>=C2=A0Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder=C2=
=A0was not retracting properly.=C2=A0</div>

<div>=C2=A0 Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rub=
ber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes th=
at goes into a T to=C2=A0feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY wi=
th the driver&#39;s brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts=
 like a champ. Driver&#39;s side spring is ok btw.</div>

<div>=C2=A0So what I don&#39;t understand is - if the inside of the rubber =
pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn&#39;t this affect =
both rear brakes, not just one of them?</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>=C2=A0 Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a &quot;bad&quot; =
wheel cylinder=C2=A0from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cyli=
nder=C2=A0@ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder=C2=A0@ $70), or do I r=
eplace both? or?</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>=C2=A0 Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are e=
venly worn &amp; about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate under=
neath.</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>=C2=A0 Thanks in advance,</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>Neil</div>

<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>

</div>
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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 19:14:06 -0700

Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install? 
I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked 
they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull 
the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract 
springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be stuck. 
FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and 
Tom Monaco told me they're fine.

On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except 
> that on its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were 
> not right.
> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes 
> that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY 
> with the driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder 
> retracts like a champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both 
> rear brakes, not just one of them?
>
>   Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel 
> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ 
> $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>

[email-masked]

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

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From: Healey <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 08:34:35 -0700

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Hi Bob,

 No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never heard
of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston obviously moves
out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the problem.
 So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side works
fine), correct?

Thanks in advance

On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install? I
> just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked they
> seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the
> recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract
>> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14
>> as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>>
> options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

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Hi Bob,<div><br></div><div>=C2=A0No, I didn&#39;t pull the new wheel cylind=
er apart before install (never heard of that one before). The bleeding went=
 fine, and the piston obviously moves out ok - it&#39;s just the lack of re=
tracting that is the problem.</div><div>=C2=A0So to confirm, noone thinks i=
t&#39;s the hose (b/c the passenger side works fine), correct?</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Thanks in advance</div><div><br>On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob S=
pidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>=
&gt; wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex=
;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Did you disassemble and lubri=
cate the seals on the cyls before install? I just replaced several on my BN=
2, and forgot to, but when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them=
, so may not be an issue. I&#39;d pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if=
 there&#39;s anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the c=
ylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I&#39;ve installed several of =
the &#39;cheapies&#39; and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco told me they&#3=
9;re fine.<br>
<br>
<br>
On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
=C2=A0I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder=C2=A0(drivers sid=
e) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &amp; adjustment, except =
that on its inaugural=C2=A0run, it became quickly apparent that things were=
 not right.<br>
=C2=A0Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder=C2=A0was=
 not retracting properly.<br>
=C2=A0 Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber p=
ipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that go=
es into a T to=C2=A0feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with th=
e driver&#39;s brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like=
 a champ. Driver&#39;s side spring is ok btw.<br>
=C2=A0So what I don&#39;t understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe =
was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn&#39;t this affect both =
rear brakes, not just one of them?<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a &quot;bad&quot; wheel=
 cylinder=C2=A0from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder=
=C2=A0@ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder=C2=A0@ $70), or do I repla=
ce both? or?<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly=
 worn &amp; about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath=
.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0 Thanks in advance,<br>
<br>
Neil<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
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From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 11:45:11 -0400

Neil,

I'd start with the wheel cylinder as that's what was replaced. What are 
you using for brake fluid?  Some master cylinders that I've bought from 
Moss aren't compatible with DOT 5 - voids the warranty.  Don't know if 
that applies to their wheel cylinders or not.

If you change the rubber hose, you ought to make sure the metal line is 
clear too.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/6/21 11:34 AM, Healey wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
>  No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never 
> heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston 
> obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the 
> problem.
>  So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side 
> works fine), correct?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <[email-masked] 
> <mailto:[email-masked]>> wrote:
>
>     Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before
>     install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but
>     when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not
>     be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's
>     anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the
>     cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed
>     several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco
>     told me they're fine.
>
>
>          I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers
>         side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &
>         adjustment, except that on its inaugural run, it became
>         quickly apparent that things were not right.
>          Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
>         cylinder was not retracting properly.
>           Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the
>         rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these
>         rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes
>         - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the
>         passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ.
>         Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>          So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber
>         pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't
>         this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?
>
>         cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket
>         cylinder @ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or
>         do I replace both? or?
>
>           Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both
>         are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal
>         mounting plate underneath.
>
>           Thanks in advance,
>
>         Neil
>
>
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---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 11:58:41 -0400

--===============0364491104386299908==

--0000000000008fe32705c6767f78

Perhaps you could better describe "things were not right".
If the brake was not overly hot there may be no problem.
When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder only operates in the first
couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the bore serves only as a guide for
the piston.

M

On Mon., Jul. 5, 2021, 6:38 p.m. Healey, <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> [email-masked]
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--0000000000008fe32705c6767f78
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"auto">Perhaps you could better describe &quot;things were not r=
ight&quot;.<div dir=3D"auto">If the brake was not overly hot there may be n=
o problem.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">When correctly adjusted the w=
heel cylinder only operates in the first couple of mm of its stroke, the re=
st of the bore serves only as a guide for the piston.</div><div dir=3D"auto=
"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><=
div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon., Jul. 5, 2021, 6:38 p.m. Heale=
y, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wro=
te:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;b=
order-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">=C2=A0I had to=
 replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder=C2=A0(drivers side) earlier. Ev=
erything went fine with the install &amp; adjustment, except that on its in=
augural=C2=A0run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.=C2=
=A0<div>=C2=A0Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder=
=C2=A0was not retracting properly.=C2=A0</div><div>=C2=A0 Group wisdom from=
 the internet says you need to replace the rubber pipe.No problem - except =
there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to=C2=A0feed=
 both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver&#39;s brake - t=
he passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ. Driver&#39;s s=
ide spring is ok btw.</div><div>=C2=A0So what I don&#39;t understand is - i=
f the inside of the rubber pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through=
, wouldn&#39;t this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?</div><di=
v><br></div><div>=C2=A0 Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a &quo=
t;bad&quot; wheel cylinder=C2=A0from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper afte=
rmarket cylinder=C2=A0@ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder=C2=A0@ $70=
), or do I replace both? or?</div><div><br></div><div>=C2=A0 Lastly, what i=
s the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly worn &amp; about the=
 same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.</div><div><br></div=
><div>=C2=A0 Thanks in advance,</div><div><br></div><div>Neil</div><div>=C2=
=A0</div></div>
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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 10:02:25 -0700

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I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard line 
(not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some 
contaminant got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but 
might prevent withdrawal of the piston.

BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least 20K 
miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my Healeys due 
to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot completely remove 
brake or differential fluid from shoes once they've been soaked).

bs

>         mounting plate underneath.

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    I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard
    line (not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some
    contaminant got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure
    but might prevent withdrawal of the piston.<br>
    <br>
    BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least
    20K miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my
    Healeys due to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot
    completely remove brake or differential fluid from shoes once
    they've been soaked).<br>
    <br>
    bs<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      Hi Bob,
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div> No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before
        install (never heard of that one before). The bleeding went
        fine, and the piston obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack
        of retracting that is the problem.</div>
      <div> So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger
        side works fine), correct?</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>Thanks in advance</div>
      <div><br>
        On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell &lt;<a
          href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
        wrote:<br>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
          .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Did you
          disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before
          install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but
          when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may
          not be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if
          there's anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong
          so the cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've
          installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and
          Tom Monaco told me they're fine.<br>
          <br>
          <br>
          On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:<br>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
            .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
             I had to replace a leaking, original wheel
            cylinder (drivers side) earlier. Everything went fine with
            the install &amp; adjustment, except that on its
            inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were
            not right.<br>
             Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
            cylinder was not retracting properly.<br>
              Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace
            the rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these
            rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear
            brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake -
            the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
            champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.<br>
             So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber
            pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't
            this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?<br>
            <br>
              Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
            cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket
            cylinder @ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70),
            or do I replace both? or?<br>
            <br>
              Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both
            are evenly worn &amp; about the same thickness as the metal
            mounting plate underneath.<br>
            <br>
              Thanks in advance,<br>
            <br>
            Neil<br>
            <br>
          </blockquote>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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[email-masked]

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From: Healey <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 08:41:44 -0700

--===============4842624380300444254==

--000000000000c4760005c68a60a3

Hi Bob - thanks - I just used regular DOT3 - nothing fancy

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:45 AM Bob Haskell <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> >
>
>

--000000000000c4760005c68a60a3
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Bob - thanks - I just used regular DOT3 - nothing fancy=
</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">=
On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:45 AM Bob Haskell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:rchaskell@=
earthlink.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px sol=
id rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Neil,<br>
<br>
I&#39;d start with the wheel cylinder as that&#39;s what was replaced. What=
 are <br>
you using for brake fluid?=C2=A0 Some master cylinders that I&#39;ve bought=
 from <br>
Moss aren&#39;t compatible with DOT 5 - voids the warranty.=C2=A0 Don&#39;t=
 know if <br>
that applies to their wheel cylinders or not.<br>
<br>
If you change the rubber hose, you ought to make sure the metal line is <br=
clear too.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Bob Haskell<br>
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar<br>
<br>
On 7/6/21 11:34 AM, Healey wrote:<br>
&gt; Hi Bob,<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; =C2=A0No, I didn&#39;t pull the new wheel cylinder apart before instal=
l (never <br>
&gt; heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston <br>
&gt; obviously moves out ok - it&#39;s just the lack of retracting that is =
the <br>
&gt; problem.<br>
&gt; =C2=A0So to confirm, noone thinks it&#39;s the hose (b/c the passenger=
 side <br>
&gt; works fine), correct?<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Thanks in advance<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@co=
mcast.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a> <br>
&gt; &lt;mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">b=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the =
cyls before<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and for=
got to, but<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in th=
em, so may not<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0be an issue. I&#39;d pull the recalcitrant cylinder=
 and see if there&#39;s<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty stro=
ng so the<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I&#39=
;ve installed<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0several of the &#39;cheapies&#39; and not had an is=
sue, and Tom Monaco<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0told me they&#39;re fine.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0I had to replace a leaking, ori=
ginal wheel cylinder=C2=A0(drivers<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0side) earlier. Everything went fine w=
ith the install &amp;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0adjustment, except that on its inaugu=
ral=C2=A0run, it became<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0quickly apparent that things were not=
 right.<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0Took the drum back off again, o=
nly to find that the<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cylinder=C2=A0was not retracting prop=
erly.<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 Group wisdom from the internet=
 says you need to replace the<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0rubber pipe.No problem - except there=
 is only 1 of these<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0rubber brake pipes that goes into a T=
 to=C2=A0feed both rear brakes<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0- and the problem is ONLY with the dr=
iver&#39;s brake - the<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0passenger side rear wheel cylinder re=
tracts like a champ.<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Driver&#39;s side spring is ok btw.<b=
r>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0So what I don&#39;t understand =
is - if the inside of the rubber<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0pipe was swollen, not letting fluid b=
ack through, wouldn&#39;t<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0this affect both rear brakes, not jus=
t one of them?<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 Should I replace this one hose=
, or did I get a &quot;bad&quot; wheel<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cylinder=C2=A0from Moss? (yes, I orde=
red the cheaper aftermarket<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0cylinder=C2=A0@ $14 as opposed to the=
 TRW brand cylinder=C2=A0@ $70), or<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0do I replace both? or?<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 Lastly, what is the min thickn=
ess of the rear shoes? Both<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0are evenly worn &amp; about the same =
thickness as the metal<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0mounting plate underneath.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 Thanks in advance,<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Neil<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0_______________________________________________<br>
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[email-masked]

--===============4842624380300444254==--

---

From: Healey <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 08:46:30 -0700

--===============3180313555072208732==

--000000000000ca9dbe05c68a7179

Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of driving, the rear brake in
question was getting so hot, it started to smoke :-(
In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there still being some
residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I thought I had cleaned it
all off) from the previous / original wheel cylinder that went bad.
However, the underlying problem of the cylinder not retracting is confirmed
with the drum off.

Thanks,

Neil

>> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.

--000000000000ca9dbe05c68a7179
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of driving, =
the rear brake in question was getting so hot, it started to smoke :-(=C2=
=A0<div>In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there still being s=
ome residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I thought I had cleaned i=
t all off) from the previous / original wheel cylinder that went bad.</div>=
<div>However, the underlying problem of the cylinder=C2=A0not retracting is=
 confirmed with the drum off.</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><div><b=
r></div><div>Neil</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr=
" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58 AM Michael Salter &lt;<a=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wr=
ote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px=
 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D=
"auto">Perhaps you could better describe &quot;things were not right&quot;.=
<div dir=3D"auto">If the brake was not overly hot there may be no problem.=
=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">When correctly adjusted the wheel cylin=
der only operates in the first couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the =
bore serves only as a guide for the piston.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></di=
v><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D=
"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon., Jul. 5, 2021, 6:38 p.m. Healey, &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>=
&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div=
 dir=3D"ltr">=C2=A0I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder=C2=
=A0(drivers side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &amp; adju=
stment, except that on its inaugural=C2=A0run, it became quickly apparent t=
hat things were not right.=C2=A0<div>=C2=A0Took the drum back off again, on=
ly to find that the cylinder=C2=A0was not retracting properly.=C2=A0</div><=
div>=C2=A0 Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubb=
er pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes tha=
t goes into a T to=C2=A0feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY wit=
h the driver&#39;s brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts =
like a champ. Driver&#39;s side spring is ok btw.</div><div>=C2=A0So what I=
 don&#39;t understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was swollen, no=
t letting fluid back through, wouldn&#39;t this affect both rear brakes, no=
t just one of them?</div><div><br></div><div>=C2=A0 Should I replace this o=
ne hose, or did I get a &quot;bad&quot; wheel cylinder=C2=A0from Moss? (yes=
, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder=C2=A0@ $14 as opposed to the T=
RW brand cylinder=C2=A0@ $70), or do I replace both? or?</div><div><br></di=
v><div>=C2=A0 Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are=
 evenly worn &amp; about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate und=
erneath.</div><div><br></div><div>=C2=A0 Thanks in advance,</div><div><br><=
/div><div>Neil</div><div>=C2=A0</div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
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</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

--===============3180313555072208732==--

---

From: Healey <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 08:51:32 -0700

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Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any damage. And thanks
for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes.

Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offending wheel
cylinder again to see if I can see if there is anything wrong internally
with it. And then move onto blowing out the hardline if required. That will
be a "Sunday job" so, I'll circle back with the list after that - thanks!

Cheers,

Neil

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:

> (not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some contaminant
> got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but might prevent
> withdrawal of the piston.
>
> miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my Healeys due to
> wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot completely remove brake or
> differential fluid from shoes once they've been soaked).
>
> bs
>
>
> heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston obviously
> moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the problem.

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any dam=
age. And thanks for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes.<div><=
br></div><div>Based on everyone&#39;s comments I&#39;ll take out the offend=
ing wheel cylinder=C2=A0again to see if I can see if there is anything wron=
g=C2=A0internally with it. And then move onto blowing out the=C2=A0hardline=
 if required. That will be a &quot;Sunday job&quot; so, I&#39;ll circle bac=
k with the list after that - thanks!</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div>=
<div><br></div><div>Neil</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=
=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob Spidell &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wro=
te:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px =
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    I don&#39;t. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard
    line (not likely to change, but we&#39;re grasping here)? Possibly, som=
e
    contaminant got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure
    but might prevent withdrawal of the piston.<br>
    <br>
    BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least
    20K miles of material left. I&#39;ve never had to change shoes in my
    Healeys due to wear; usually it&#39;s because of leaks (you cannot
    completely remove brake or differential fluid from shoes once
    they&#39;ve been soaked).<br>
    <br>
    bs<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div>On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      Hi Bob,
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>=C2=A0No, I didn&#39;t pull the new wheel cylinder apart before
        install (never heard of that one before). The bleeding went
        fine, and the piston obviously moves out ok - it&#39;s just the lac=
k
        of retracting that is the problem.</div>
      <div>=C2=A0So to confirm, noone thinks it&#39;s the hose (b/c the pas=
senger
        side works fine), correct?</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>Thanks in advance</div>
      <div><br>
        On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell=
@comcast.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
        wrote:<br>
        <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Did you
          disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before
          install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but
          when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may
          not be an issue. I&#39;d pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see i=
f
          there&#39;s anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong
          so the cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I&#39;ve
          installed several of the &#39;cheapies&#39; and not had an issue,=
 and
          Tom Monaco told me they&#39;re fine.<br>
          <br>
          <br>
          On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:<br>
          <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8=
ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
            =C2=A0I had to replace a leaking, original wheel
            cylinder=C2=A0(drivers side) earlier. Everything went fine with
            the install &amp; adjustment, except that on its
            inaugural=C2=A0run, it became quickly apparent that things were
            not right.<br>
            =C2=A0Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
            cylinder=C2=A0was not retracting properly.<br>
            =C2=A0 Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace
            the rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these
            rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to=C2=A0feed both rear
            brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver&#39;s brake -
            the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
            champ. Driver&#39;s side spring is ok btw.<br>
            =C2=A0So what I don&#39;t understand is - if the inside of the =
rubber
            pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn&#39;t
            this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?<br>
            <br>
            =C2=A0 Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a &quot;bad=
&quot; wheel
            cylinder=C2=A0from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarke=
t
            cylinder=C2=A0@ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder=C2=A0@=
 $70),
            or do I replace both? or?<br>
            <br>
            =C2=A0 Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Bot=
h
            are evenly worn &amp; about the same thickness as the metal
            mounting plate underneath.<br>
            <br>
            =C2=A0 Thanks in advance,<br>
            <br>
            Neil<br>
            <br>
          </blockquote>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </div>

</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: "David Nock BCS" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 09:11:00 -0700

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This has been an issue for many years. The casting on the outer of the =
cylinder is a little large for the hole in the backing plate. All you =
need to do is file down on each side of the cylinder so it fits into the =
backing plate.

David Nock
[email-masked]
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the=20
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites=20
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org

From: Healey=20
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2021 8:51 AM
To: Bob Spidell=20
Cc: [email-masked]=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake

Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any damage. And =
thanks for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes.=20

Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offending wheel cylinder =
again to see if I can see if there is anything wrong internally with it. =
And then move onto blowing out the hardline if required. That will be a =
"Sunday job" so, I'll circle back with the list after that - thanks!

Cheers,

Neil

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> =
wrote:

  I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard line =
(not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some =
contaminant got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but =
might prevent withdrawal of the piston.

  BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least 20K =
miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my Healeys due =
to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot completely remove =
brake or differential fluid from shoes once they've been soaked).

  bs

    Hi Bob,=20

    No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never =
heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston =
obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the =
problem.
    So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side =
works fine), correct?

    Thanks in advance

      Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before =
install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I =
checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. =
I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, =
the retract springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to =
really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not =
had an issue, and Tom Monaco told me they're fine.

        I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers =
side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, =
except that on its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things =
were not right.
        Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was =
not retracting properly.
          Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the =
rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake =
pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is =
ONLY with the driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder =
retracts like a champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
        So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe =
was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both =
rear brakes, not just one of them?

          Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel =
cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ =
$14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? =
or?

          Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are =
evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate =
underneath.

          Thanks in advance,

        Neil

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>This has been an issue for many years. The casting on the outer of =
the=20
cylinder is a little large for the hole in the backing plate. All you =
need to do=20
is file down on each side of the cylinder so it fits into the backing=20
plate.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: =
#000000">David=20
Nock<BR>[email-masked]<BR>209 948=20
8767<BR>www.britishcarspecialists.com<BR><BR>Help us have our Founder =
Norman=20
Nock inducteed into the <BR>British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote =
for=20
your favorites <BR>by visiting the site=20
at.<BR>www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org<BR></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
title=[email-masked]>Healey</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, July 07, 2021 8:51 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]>Bob Spidell</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]>[email-masked]</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any =
damage. And=20
thanks for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes.=20
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offending wheel =
cylinder=20
again to see if I can see if there is anything wrong internally with it. =
And=20
then move onto blowing out the hardline if required. That will be a =
"Sunday job"=20
so, I'll circle back with the list after that - thanks!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Cheers,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Neil</DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_attr dir=3Dltr>On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob =
Spidell=20
&lt;<A>[email-masked]</A>&gt; wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; =
MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
  <DIV>I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard =
line=20
  (not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some =
contaminant=20
  got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but might =
prevent=20
  withdrawal of the piston.<BR><BR>BTW, from your description, your rear =
shoes=20
  probably have at least 20K miles of material left. I've never had to =
change=20
  shoes in my Healeys due to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you =
cannot=20
  completely remove brake or differential fluid from shoes once they've =
been=20
  soaked).<BR><BR>bs<BR><BR><BR>
  <DIV>On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:<BR></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE type=3D"cite">Hi Bob,=20
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install =
(never=20
    heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston =
obviously=20
    moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the =
problem.</DIV>
    <DIV>So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger =
side works=20
    fine), correct?</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>Thanks in advance</DIV>
    <DIV><BR>On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell &lt;<A=20
    target=3D_blank>[email-masked]</A>&gt; wrote:<BR>
    <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
    style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; =
MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">Did=20
      you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before =
install? I just=20
      replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked they =
seemed=20
      to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the=20
      recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the =
retract=20
      springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be =
stuck.=20
      FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an =
issue, and=20
      Tom Monaco told me they're fine.<BR><BR><BR>On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, =
Healey=20
      wrote:<BR>
      <BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
      style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px =
solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">I=20
        had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side) =

        earlier. Everything went fine with the install &amp; adjustment, =
except=20
        that on its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that =
things were=20
        not right.<BR>Took the drum back off again, only to find that =
the=20
        cylinder was not retracting properly.<BR>&nbsp; Group wisdom =
from the=20
        internet says you need to replace the rubber pipe.No problem - =
except=20
        there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that goes into a T =
to feed=20
        both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's =
brake - the=20
        passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ. =
Driver's side=20
        spring is ok btw.<BR>So what I don't understand is - if the =
inside of=20
        the rubber pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, =
wouldn't=20
        this affect both rear brakes, not just one of =
them?<BR><BR>&nbsp; Should=20
        I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder =
from Moss?=20
        (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14 as =
opposed to the=20
        TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? =
or?<BR><BR>&nbsp;=20
        Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are =
evenly=20
        worn &amp; about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate=20
        underneath.<BR><BR>&nbsp; Thanks in=20
      =
advance,<BR><BR>Neil<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQU=
OTE><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
_______________________________________________<BR>Support Team.Net=20
$12.75<BR><BR>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys=20
http://autox.team.net/archive<BR><BR>[email-masked]<BR>http://aut=
ox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<BR><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage:=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<BR><BR>=
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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 09:12:04 -0700

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re: '... there still being some residual brake fluid on the drum (even 
though I thought I had cleaned it all off) ...'

Can't be done. I tried once, by cleaning--with brake cleaner--sanding 
the 'wet' off and repeat repeat repeat. I thought I had some cleaned, 
but after sitting overnight brake fluid would ooze out, no matter how 
many times I tried to clean them. Maybe, if it's a light 'dusting' of 
fluid, and you get to it immediately you can have some success, but who 
wants to take any chances with brakes?

FWIW, I've 'voided the warranty' several times using silicone BF with no 
issues (I have had problems with DoT 3, though). I don't recall the 
'Classic Gold' cylinders I got from Moss having that warning on the box. 
I was grateful to pay a reasonable price for front cylinders for a BN2; 
years ago they were something like $70 per for F/R. I never figured out 
why, just for the front rights, but we got one that was obviously a 
return (slightly) cleaned-up and put back on the shelf. Moss, among 
others--looking at you, RockAuto--apparently put returns back on the 
shelf without inspecting them.

bs

On 7/7/2021 8:46 AM, Healey wrote:
> Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of driving, the rear 
> brake in question was getting so hot, it started to smoke :-(
> residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I thought I had cleaned 
> it all off) from the previous / original wheel cylinder that went bad.
> However, the underlying problem of the cylinder not retracting is 
> confirmed with the drum off.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Neil
>
> On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58 AM Michael Salter <[email-masked] 
>
>     When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder only operates in the
>     first couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the bore serves only
>     as a guide for the piston.
>
>     M
>

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<html>
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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    re: '... there still being some residual brake fluid on the drum
    (even though I thought I had cleaned it all off) ...'<br>
    <br>
    Can't be done. I tried once, by cleaning--with brake
    cleaner--sanding the 'wet' off and repeat repeat repeat. I thought I
    had some cleaned, but after sitting overnight brake fluid would ooze
    out, no matter how many times I tried to clean them. Maybe, if it's
    a light 'dusting' of fluid, and you get to it immediately you can
    have some success, but who wants to take any chances with brakes?<br>
    <br>
    FWIW, I've 'voided the warranty' several times using silicone BF
    with no issues (I have had problems with DoT 3, though). I don't
    recall the 'Classic Gold' cylinders I got from Moss having that
    warning on the box. I was grateful to pay a reasonable price for
    front cylinders for a BN2; years ago they were something like $70
    per for F/R. I never figured out why, just for the front rights, but
    we got one that was obviously a return (slightly) cleaned-up and put
    back on the shelf. Moss, among others--looking at you,
    RockAuto--apparently put returns back on the shelf without
    inspecting them.<br>
    <br>
    bs<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/7/2021 8:46 AM, Healey wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of
        driving, the rear brake in question was getting so hot, it
        started to smoke :-( 
        <div>In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there still
          being some residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I
          thought I had cleaned it all off) from the previous / original
          wheel cylinder that went bad.</div>
        <div>However, the underlying problem of the cylinder not
          retracting is confirmed with the drum off.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Thanks,</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Neil</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58 AM
          Michael Salter &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]"
            moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div dir="auto">Perhaps you could better describe "things were
            not right".
            <div dir="auto">If the brake was not overly hot there may be
              no problem.  </div>
            <div dir="auto">When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder
              only operates in the first couple of mm of its stroke, the
              rest of the bore serves only as a guide for the piston.</div>
            <div dir="auto"><br>
            </div>
            <div dir="auto">M</div>
          </div>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
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From: David P <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 10:34:30 -0600

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Aside from the filing to fit, those cylinders MUST slide in the opening 
in order for the shoes to center in the drum. Lately, when both retainer 
clips are inserted the cylinder is immobile, so the side grooves must be 
filed as well.. Best to rebuild the originals if and when possible.. 
NAPA, et al have the cups and the other rubber bits from the Moss, 
etc..  daveP

On 7/7/2021 10:12 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> fluid, and you get to it immediately you can have some success, but 
> who wants to take any chances with brakes?
>
> FWIW, I've 'voided the warranty' several times using silicone BF with 
> no issues (I have had problems with DoT 3, though). I don't recall the 
> 'Classic Gold' cylinders I got from Moss having that warning on the 
> box. I was grateful to pay a reasonable price for front cylinders for 
> a BN2; years ago they were something like $70 per for F/R. I never 
> figured out why, just for the front rights, but we got one that was 
> obviously a return (slightly) cleaned-up and put back on the shelf. 
> Moss, among others--looking at you, RockAuto--apparently put returns 
> back on the shelf without inspecting them.
>
> bs
>
>
>> In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there still being 
>> some residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I thought I had 
>> cleaned it all off) from the previous / original wheel cylinder that 
>> went bad.
>> On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58 AM Michael Salter 
>>
>>     first couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the bore serves
>>     only as a guide for the piston.
>>
>>     M
>>
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
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Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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    <p>Aside from the filing to fit, those cylinders MUST slide in the
      opening in order for the shoes to center in the drum. Lately, when
      both retainer clips are inserted the cylinder is immobile, so the
      side grooves must be filed as well.. Best to rebuild the originals
      if and when possible.. NAPA, et al have the cups and the other
      rubber bits from the Moss, etc..  daveP<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/7/2021 10:12 AM, Bob Spidell
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      re: '... there still being some residual brake fluid on the drum
      (even though I thought I had cleaned it all off) ...'<br>
      <br>
      Can't be done. I tried once, by cleaning--with brake
      cleaner--sanding the 'wet' off and repeat repeat repeat. I thought
      I had some cleaned, but after sitting overnight brake fluid would
      ooze out, no matter how many times I tried to clean them. Maybe,
      if it's a light 'dusting' of fluid, and you get to it immediately
      you can have some success, but who wants to take any chances with
      brakes?<br>
      <br>
      FWIW, I've 'voided the warranty' several times using silicone BF
      with no issues (I have had problems with DoT 3, though). I don't
      recall the 'Classic Gold' cylinders I got from Moss having that
      warning on the box. I was grateful to pay a reasonable price for
      front cylinders for a BN2; years ago they were something like $70
      per for F/R. I never figured out why, just for the front rights,
      but we got one that was obviously a return (slightly) cleaned-up
      and put back on the shelf. Moss, among others--looking at you,
      RockAuto--apparently put returns back on the shelf without
      inspecting them.<br>
      <br>
      bs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/7/2021 8:46 AM, Healey wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
        <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
          charset=UTF-8">
        <div dir="ltr">Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of
          driving, the rear brake in question was getting so hot, it
          started to smoke :-( 
          <div>In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there
            still being some residual brake fluid on the drum (even
            though I thought I had cleaned it all off) from the previous
            / original wheel cylinder that went bad.</div>
          <div>However, the underlying problem of the cylinder not
            retracting is confirmed with the drum off.</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>Thanks,</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>Neil</div>
        </div>
        <br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">
          <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58
            AM Michael Salter &lt;<a
              href="mailto:[email-masked]"
              moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
            wrote:<br>
          </div>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
            0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
            rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
            <div dir="auto">Perhaps you could better describe "things
              were not right".
              <div dir="auto">If the brake was not overly hot there may
                be no problem.  </div>
              <div dir="auto">When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder
                only operates in the first couple of mm of its stroke,
                the rest of the bore serves only as a guide for the
                piston.</div>
              <div dir="auto"><br>
              </div>
              <div dir="auto">M</div>
            </div>
            <br>
          </blockquote>
        </div>
      </blockquote>
      <br>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

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    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/">WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
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