Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 09:16:41 -0800

Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one 
piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the 
tailpipe.

By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.

Bob

On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> All -
>
> On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came 
> off the upper part of the valve guide.
>
> It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one 
> sells.  I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, 
> correct?  It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried 
> but would prefer to not  put it back on and have old rubber parts 
> getting into the oil.
>
> Am I correct to not put it back on?  No one seems to sell these.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>

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From: Harold Manifold via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 09:27:35 -0800

I had head on my AH 3000 done recently and the engine shop highly
recommended the "top hat" style valve seals. If you are doing the head
yourself I would suggest taking a valve and the valve springs to a good
engine shop and they will be able to size the "top seal" and source them for
you.

Harold 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2021 9:17 AM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 / A90 old style valve seals

Bob

On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
> sells.  I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, correct?  
> It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried but would 
> prefer to not  put it back on and have old rubber parts getting into 
> the oil.
>

$12.75

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

[email-masked]

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From: john harper <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 17:35:03 +0000

--===============1131373118439330424==

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Alan

I am not sure that I understand 'original'?

Most A90 Atlantic had single valve springs as does the early 100.
Double valve springs could be fitted to an A90 and some owners have done
so. The double types had different locator rings next to the head and at
the top more fitting to locate the double springs. The top oil seal was
located differently. There was very little in common between the single and
double spring setups. I would suggest fitting the double version because it
was supposed to eliminate valve bounce.

What I guess that what you are seeing is a non-stangard extra seal;
possibly to reduce oil being burnt that gets down worn guides. I have seen
firms selling these to reduce oil consumption.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2021 at 05:31, Alan Seigrist via Healeys <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> All -
>
> On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came off
> the upper part of the valve guide.
>
> It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one sells.
> I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, correct?  It's
> already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried but would prefer to
> not  put it back on and have old rubber parts getting into the oil.
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000945c7b05bbdc1bbf
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Alan<div><br></div><div>I am not sure that I understand &#=
39;original&#39;?</div><div><br></div><div>Most A90 Atlantic had single val=
ve springs as does the early=C2=A0100. Double=C2=A0valve springs could be f=
itted to an A90 and some owners have done so. The double types had differen=
t=C2=A0locator rings next to the head and at the top more fitting to locate=
 the double springs. The top oil seal was located differently. There was ve=
ry little in common between the single and double spring setups. I would su=
ggest fitting the double version=C2=A0because it was supposed to eliminate =
valve bounce.</div><div><br></div><div>What I guess that what you are seein=
g is a non-stangard=C2=A0extra seal; possibly to reduce oil being burnt tha=
t gets down worn guides. I have seen firms selling these to reduce oil cons=
umption.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, 21 Feb 2021 at 05:31, Alan Seigrist via Healeys &lt=
;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; w=
rote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0p=
x 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=
=3D"ltr">All -<div><br></div><div>On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust=
 valves and this seal came off the upper part of the valve guide.</div><div=
><br></div><div>It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which =
no one sells.=C2=A0 I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, c=
orrect?=C2=A0 It&#39;s already half disintegrated and I&#39;m not really wo=
rried but would prefer to not=C2=A0 put it back on and have old rubber part=
s getting into the oil.</div><div><br></div><div>Am I correct to=C2=A0not p=
ut it back on?=C2=A0 No one seems to sell these.</div><div><br></div><div>B=
est,</div><div><br></div><div>Alan</div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div=
_______________________________________________<br>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 14:27:00 -0500

--===============3288686596913881467==

--000000000000036c3405bbddac41

In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:  "By no
means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine."

About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump
and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black plastic
distributed throughout the sump.  This was a head scratcher as I knew there
could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was.  After
thinking about it further I decided that it could only have been the
remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled
the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent and the chain
pretty loose.  I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and
magically a chattering sound that had been appearing at certain
rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000036c3405bbddac41
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">In th=
e string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:=C2=A0 &quot;By n=
o means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.&quot;</div>=
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">About a year back I dropped the =
oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump and found numerous chunks of what=
 seemed like very hard black plastic distributed throughout the sump.=C2=A0=
 This was a head scratcher as I knew there could be no plastic in the engin=
e&#39;s interior yet there it was.=C2=A0 After thinking=C2=A0about it furth=
er I decided that it could only have been the remains of the rubber timing =
chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that th=
e tensioner was non-existent=C2=A0and the chain pretty loose.=C2=A0 I repla=
ced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and magically a chattering so=
und that had been=C2=A0appearing at certain rpm&#39;s=C2=A0disappeared, no =
doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain.</div><div class=3D"gma=
il_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div></div><br><div class=3D"gm=
ail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12=
:17 PM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">bspidell@com=
cast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D=
"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-le=
ft:1ex">Most mechanics favor modern &#39;top hat&#39; style seals--I think =
they&#39;re one <br>
piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the <br>
tailpipe.<br>
<br>
By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:<br>
&gt; All -<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came <b=
r>
&gt; off the upper part of the valve guide.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one <br>
&gt; sells.=C2=A0 I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, <br=
&gt; correct?=C2=A0 It&#39;s already half disintegrated and I&#39;m not rea=
lly worried <br>
&gt; but would prefer to not=C2=A0 put it back on and have old rubber parts=
 <br>
&gt; getting into the oil.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Am I correct to=C2=A0not put it back on?=C2=A0 No one seems to sell th=
ese.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Best,<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; Alan<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"h=
ttp://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://a=
utox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
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eam.net</a><br>
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</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Salter via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 15:37:59 -0500

--===============9120192693867080954==

--000000000000e71a2105bbdea9b7

Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up of the
rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently
disassembled had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the
original tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a definite life
which originals are now reaching.

M

On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--000000000000e71a2105bbdea9b7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Until fairly recent years I had never exp=
erienced the breaking up of the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners b=
ut the engine I recently disassembled had one that was completely destroyed=
. Apparently this was the original tensioner so I&#39;m wondering if these =
things have a definite life which originals are now reaching.</div><div cla=
ss=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-siz=
e:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic =
sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmai=
l_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27=
 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_=
quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,=
204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob=
 Spidell said:=C2=A0 &quot;By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the i=
nside of an engine.&quot;</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:=
rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(5=
1,51,255)">About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the=
 oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black pla=
stic distributed throughout the sump.=C2=A0 This was a head scratcher as I =
knew there could be no plastic in the engine&#39;s interior yet there it wa=
s.=C2=A0 After thinking=C2=A0about it further I decided that it could only =
have been the remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough =
when I pulled the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent=C2=
=A0and the chain pretty loose.=C2=A0 I replaced the chain and tensioner--no=
t an easy job--and magically a chattering sound that had been=C2=A0appearin=
g at certain rpm&#39;s=C2=A0disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of th=
e loose timing chain.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(=
51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51=
,255)">Best--Michael Oritt</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div d=
ir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidel=
l &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">bspidell@co=
mcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding=
-left:1ex">Most mechanics favor modern &#39;top hat&#39; style seals--I thi=
nk they&#39;re one <br>
piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the <br>
tailpipe.<br>
<br>
By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:<br>
&gt; All -<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came <b=
r>
&gt; off the upper part of the valve guide.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one <br>
&gt; sells.=C2=A0 I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, <br=
s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

--===============9120192693867080954==--

---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 12:46:26 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which 
originals are now reaching."

I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh 
environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts 
with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less 
antagonistic to rubber.

Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal 
'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an original 
plate to one of their newer replacements; anyone tried this (it requires 
rivets)?

On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
> Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up of 
> the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I 
> recently disassembled had one that was completely destroyed. 
> Apparently this was the original tensioner so I'm wondering if these 
> things have a definite life which originals are now reaching.
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys 
>
>     In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said: 
>     "By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine."
>
>     About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the
>     oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard
>     black plastic distributed throughout the sump. This was a head
>     scratcher as I knew there could be no plastic in the engine's
>     interior yet there it was.  After thinking about it further I
>     decided that it could only have been the remains of the rubber
>     timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled the front
>     cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent and the chain
>     pretty loose.  I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy
>     job--and magically a chattering sound that had been appearing at
>     certain rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the
>     loose timing chain.
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt
>
>     On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]
>
>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]>
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<html>
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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which
    originals are now reaching."<br>
    <br>
    I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty
    harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any
    rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is
    supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.<br>
    <br>
    Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal
    'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an
    original plate to one of their newer replacements; anyone tried this
    (it requires rivets)?<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter
      via Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
          ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Until fairly recent years I had
          never experienced the breaking up of the rubber slipper on
          timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently disassembled
          had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the
          original tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a
          definite life which originals are now reaching.</div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
          ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
          ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27
          PM Michael Oritt via Healeys &lt;<a
            href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div dir="ltr">
            <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">In
              the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell
              said:  "By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the
              inside of an engine."</div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
            </div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">About
              a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the
              oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
              very hard black plastic distributed throughout the sump. 
              This was a head scratcher as I knew there could be no
              plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was.  After
              thinking about it further I decided that it could only
              have been the remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner
              and sure enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that
              the tensioner was non-existent and the chain pretty
              loose.  I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy
              job--and magically a chattering sound that had
              been appearing at certain rpm's disappeared, no doubt a
              harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain.</div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
            </div>
            <div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
              Oritt</div>
          </div>
          <br>
          <div class="gmail_quote">
            <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at
              12:17 PM Bob Spidell &lt;<a
                href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
                moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
              wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
              0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
              rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Most mechanics favor
              modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one <br>
              piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue
              smoke from the <br>
              tailpipe.<br>
              <br>
              By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of
              an engine.<br>
              <br>
              Bob<br>
              <br>
              <br>
              On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:<br>
              &gt; All -<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt; On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and
              this seal came <br>
              &gt; off the upper part of the valve guide.<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt; It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud
              which no one <br>
              &gt; sells.  I assume the best thing is to remove it and
              chuck it, <br>
              &gt; correct?  It's already half disintegrated and I'm not
              really worried <br>
              &gt; but would prefer to not  put it back on and have old
              rubber parts <br>
              &gt; getting into the oil.<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt; Am I correct to not put it back on?  No one seems to
              sell these.<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt; Best,<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt; Alan<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt;<br>
              <br>
              _______________________________________________<br>
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      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 21 Feb 2021 16:50:54 -0500

--===============7148394023452748910==

--0000000000009a1d9105bbdfae0f

Michael--

The new rubber timing chain tensioner came with installation instructions
which in part said "Replace every 50-75 years".

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:38 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <
[email-masked]> wrote:

>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> [email-masked]
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> [email-masked]
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> [email-masked]

--0000000000009a1d9105bbdfae0f
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Micha=
el--</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">The=C2=A0new rubber timi=
ng chain tensioner came with installation instructions which in part said &=
quot;Replace every 50-75 years&quot;.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" sty=
le=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:=
#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div=
 dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:38 PM Michael S=
alter via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">healeys@aut=
ox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding=
-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-fami=
ly:&quot;comic sans ms&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:small">Until fairly recen=
t years I had never experienced the breaking up of the rubber slipper on ti=
ming chain tensioners but the engine I recently disassembled had one that w=
as completely destroyed. Apparently this was the original tensioner so I&#3=
9;m wondering if these things have a definite life which originals are now =
reaching.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:&quot;comi=
c sans ms&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault" style=3D"font-family:&quot;comic sans ms&quot;,sans-serif;font-size=
:small">M<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" cl=
ass=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healey=
s &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">healeys@a=
utox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" sty=
le=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);paddi=
ng-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:r=
gb(51,51,255)">In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell sa=
id:=C2=A0 &quot;By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an=
 engine.&quot;</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,2=
55)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">=
About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump a=
nd found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black plastic distri=
buted throughout the sump.=C2=A0 This was a head scratcher as I knew there =
could be no plastic in the engine&#39;s interior yet there it was.=C2=A0 Af=
ter thinking=C2=A0about it further I decided that it could only have been t=
he remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pull=
ed the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent=C2=A0and the c=
hain pretty loose.=C2=A0 I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy jo=
b--and magically a chattering sound that had been=C2=A0appearing at certain=
 rpm&#39;s=C2=A0disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timi=
ng chain.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">=
<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best-=
-Michael Oritt</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" c=
lass=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell &lt;<a hre=
f=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px=
 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Mos=
t mechanics favor modern &#39;top hat&#39; style seals--I think they&#39;re=
 one <br>
piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the <br>
tailpipe.<br>
<br>
By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:<br>
&gt; All -<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came <b=
r>
&gt; off the upper part of the valve guide.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt; It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one <br>
&gt; sells.=C2=A0 I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it, <br=

--0000000000009a1d9105bbdfae0f--

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[email-masked]

--===============7148394023452748910==--

---

From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 10:00:39 -0500

--===============0652085630658689957==

--00000000000051446d05bbee112d

Bob wrote:  "I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a
pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any
rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly
less antagonistic to rubber."
--------------------------------------------
50 to 75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.
Maybe we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils?

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:

> environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with
> a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic
> to rubber.
>
> Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal 'slinger'
> plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an original plate to one
> of their newer replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?
>
>
> [email-masked]://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>

--00000000000051446d05bbee112d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D""><span style=3D"col=
or:rgb(51,51,255)">Bob wrote:=C2=A0 </span><font color=3D"#0000ff">&quot;I&=
#39;m surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it&#39;s a pretty harsh=
 environment for rubber. As a rule, I don&#39;t lubricate any rubber parts =
with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonis=
tic to rubber.&quot;</font></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D""><f=
ont color=3D"#0000ff">--------------------------------------------</font></=
div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D"#0000ff">50 to 7=
5 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.=C2=A0=C2=A0</font></div><div cl=
ass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D"#0000ff">Maybe we should no=
w be searching for silicon-based motor oils?</font></div><div class=3D"gmai=
l_default" style=3D""><font color=3D"#0000ff"><br></font></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D"#0000ff">Best--Michael Oritt</=
font></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailt=
o:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><block=
quote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1=
px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    re: &quot;... I&#39;m wondering if these things have a definite life wh=
ich
    originals are now reaching.&quot;<br>
    <br>
    I&#39;m surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it&#39;s a pretty
    harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don&#39;t lubricate any
    rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is
    supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.<br>
    <br>
    Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal
    &#39;slinger&#39; plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an
    original plate to one of their newer replacements; anyone tried this
    (it requires rivets)?<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div>On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter
      via Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr">
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:&quot;comic sans =
ms&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:small">Until fairly recent years I had
          never experienced the breaking up of the rubber slipper on
          timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently disassembled
          had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the
          original tensioner so I&#39;m wondering if these things have a
          definite life which originals are now reaching.</div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:&quot;comic sans =
ms&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:&quot;comic sans =
ms&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27
          PM Michael Oritt via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.=
team.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div dir=3D"ltr">
            <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">In
              the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell
              said:=C2=A0 &quot;By no means let crumbling rubber parts see =
the
              inside of an engine.&quot;</div>
            <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br=
            </div>
            <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Abo=
ut
              a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the
              oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
              very hard black plastic distributed throughout the sump.=C2=
=A0
              This was a head scratcher as I knew there could be no
              plastic in the engine&#39;s interior yet there it was.=C2=A0 =
After
              thinking=C2=A0about it further I decided that it could only
              have been the remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner
              and sure enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that
              the tensioner was non-existent=C2=A0and the chain pretty
              loose.=C2=A0 I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy
              job--and magically a chattering sound that had
              been=C2=A0appearing at certain rpm&#39;s=C2=A0disappeared, no=
 doubt a
              harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain.</div>
            <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br=
            </div>
            <div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Bes=
t--Michael
              Oritt</div>
          </div>
          <br>
          <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
            <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at
              12:17 PM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
et" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
              wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0=
.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Most mechanic=
s favor
              modern &#39;top hat&#39; style seals--I think they&#39;re one=
 <br>
              piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue
              smoke from the <br>
              tailpipe.<br>
              <br>
              By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of
              an engine.<br>
              <br>
              Bob<br>
              <br>
              <br>
              On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:<br>
              &gt; All -<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt; On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and
              this seal came <br>
              &gt; off the upper part of the valve guide.<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt; It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud
              which no one <br>
              &gt; sells.=C2=A0 I assume the best thing is to remove it and
              chuck it, <br>
              &gt; correct?=C2=A0 It&#39;s already half disintegrated and I=
&#39;m not
              really worried <br>
              &gt; but would prefer to not=C2=A0 put it back on and have ol=
d
              rubber parts <br>
              &gt; getting into the oil.<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt; Am I correct to=C2=A0not put it back on?=C2=A0 No one se=
ems to
              sell these.<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt; Best,<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt; Alan<br>
              &gt;<br>
              &gt;<br>
              <br>
              _______________________________________________<br>
              Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
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      <pre>_______________________________________________
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--00000000000051446d05bbee112d--

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[email-masked]

--===============0652085630658689957==--

---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 08:08:16 -0800

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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--------------78FFFBED06C2C320FACEA42D
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That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil filter 
gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our ancient 
electrical connectors--my dad's Model As used the same type--seems to 
help prevent some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a silicone 'oil' where 
light lubrication is needed and dirt and dust can build up (speedo 
cables and Bendix gears on starters come to mind).

I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium chloride; 
cars of that era were designed and built to last for only a few years 
before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over 205K miles and 
is going strong (but shows her age).

So, Alan, what did you decide?

On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> supposedly less antagonistic to rubber."
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <[email-masked] 
>
>     supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.
>
>     original plate to one of their newer replacements; anyone tried
>     this (it requires rivets)?
>
>
>>     Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up
>>     of the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I
>>     Apparently this was the original tensioner so I'm wondering if
>>     these things have a definite life which originals are now reaching.
>>
>>     M
>>
>>         In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell
>>         said:  "By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside
>>         of an engine."
>>
>>         About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace
>>         the oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
>>         This was a head scratcher as I knew there could be no plastic
>>         in the engine's interior yet there it was.  After
>>         thinking about it further I decided that it could only have
>>         been the remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and
>>         sure enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that the
>>         tensioner was non-existent and the chain pretty loose.  I
>>         replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and
>>         magically a chattering sound that had been appearing at
>>         certain rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of
>>         the loose timing chain.
>>
>>         Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>         On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell
>>
>>             smoke from the
>>             an engine.

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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
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    That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil
    filter gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our
    ancient electrical connectors--my dad's Model As used the same
    type--seems to help prevent some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a
    silicone 'oil' where light lubrication is needed and dirt and dust
    can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on starters come to
    mind).<br>
    <br>
    I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium
    chloride; cars of that era were designed and built to last for only
    a few years before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over
    205K miles and is going strong (but shows her age).<br>
    <br>
    So, Alan, what did you decide?<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael Oritt
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div class="gmail_default" style=""><span
            style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Bob wrote:  </span><font
            color="#0000ff">"I'm surprised they lasted this long--if
            they did--it's a pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a
            rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a
            petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less
            antagonistic to rubber."</font></div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">--------------------------------------------</font></div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">50 to
            75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.  </font></div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">Maybe
            we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils?</font></div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff"><br>
          </font></div>
        <div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">Best--Michael
            Oritt</font></div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47
          PM Bob Spidell &lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]"
            moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div> re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite
            life which originals are now reaching."<br>
            <br>
            I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a
            pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't
            lubricate any rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or
            oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.<br>
            <br>
            Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the
            metal 'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises
            transferring an original plate to one of their newer
            replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?<br>
            <br>
            <br>
            <div>On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys
              wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote type="cite">
              <div dir="ltr">
                <div class="gmail_default"
                  style="font-family:&quot;comic sans
                  ms&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:small">Until fairly
                  recent years I had never experienced the breaking up
                  of the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but
                  the engine I recently disassembled had one that was
                  completely destroyed. Apparently this was the original
                  tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a
                  definite life which originals are now reaching.</div>
                <div class="gmail_default"
                  style="font-family:&quot;comic sans
                  ms&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
                </div>
                <div class="gmail_default"
                  style="font-family:&quot;comic sans
                  ms&quot;,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
                </div>
              </div>
              <br>
              <div class="gmail_quote">
                <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021
                  at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys &lt;<a
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank"
                    moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                  wrote:<br>
                </div>
                <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
                  0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
                  rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                  <div dir="ltr">
                    <div class="gmail_default"
                      style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">In the string about
                      rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:  "By
                      no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside
                      of an engine."</div>
                    <div class="gmail_default"
                      style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
                    </div>
                    <div class="gmail_default"
                      style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">About a year back I
                      dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil
                      pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
                      very hard black plastic distributed throughout the
                      sump.  This was a head scratcher as I knew there
                      could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet
                      there it was.  After thinking about it further I
                      decided that it could only have been the remains
                      of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure
                      enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that
                      the tensioner was non-existent and the chain
                      pretty loose.  I replaced the chain and
                      tensioner--not an easy job--and magically a
                      chattering sound that had been appearing at
                      certain rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic
                      rattling of the loose timing chain.</div>
                    <div class="gmail_default"
                      style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
                    </div>
                    <div class="gmail_default"
                      style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
                  </div>
                  <br>
                  <div class="gmail_quote">
                    <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21,
                      2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell &lt;<a
                        href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                        target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
                      wrote:<br>
                    </div>
                    <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px
                      0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
                      rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Most mechanics
                      favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think
                      they're one <br>
                      piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires
                      blue smoke from the <br>
                      tailpipe.<br>
                      <br>
                      By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the
                      inside of an engine.<br>
                      <br>
                      Bob<br>
                      <br>
                      <br>
                      On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys
                      wrote:<br>
                      &gt; All -<br>
                      &gt;<br>
                      &gt; On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust
                      valves and this seal came <br>
                      &gt; off the upper part of the valve guide.<br>
                      &gt;<br>
                      &gt; It seems this is an original style valve seal
                      shroud which no one <br>
                      &gt; sells.  I assume the best thing is to remove
                      it and chuck it, <br>
                      &gt; correct?  It's already half disintegrated and
                      I'm not really worried <br>
                      &gt; but would prefer to not  put it back on and
                      have old rubber parts <br>
                      &gt; getting into the oil.<br>
                      &gt;<br>
                      &gt; Am I correct to not put it back on?  No one
                      seems to sell these.<br>
                      &gt;<br>
                      &gt; Best,<br>
                      &gt;<br>
                      &gt; Alan<br>
                      &gt;<br>
                      &gt;<br>
                    </blockquote>
                  </div>
                </blockquote>
              </div>
            </blockquote>
          </div>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------78FFFBED06C2C320FACEA42D--

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[email-masked]

--===============0819049028147686397==--

---

From: Michael MacLean via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 22 Feb 2021 22:50:18 +0000 (UTC)

--===============1942995073784140986==
	boundary="----=_Part_1342889_926053506.1614034218744"

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 I use Kopr-Shield when assembling Lucas bullet connectors.=C2=A0 Did this =
21 years ago with my Bugeye and not one problem with connections corroding =
yet.=C2=A0 Never hardens and does not allow corrosion in electrical joints =
while while aiding conductivity.=C2=A0 It is also used as an anti-sieze com=
pound.

THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compou=
nd

|=20
|=20
|  |=20
THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Com...

THOMAS & BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compou=
nd
 |

 |

 |

Mike MacLean

    On Monday, February 22, 2021, 8:09:07 AM PST, Bob Spidell <bspidell@com=
cast.net> wrote: =20
=20
  That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil filter ga=
skets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our ancient electrical con=
nectors--my dad's Model As used the same type--seems to help prevent some o=
f the Lucas gremlins. I use a silicone 'oil' where light lubrication is nee=
ded and dirt and dust can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on start=
ers come to mind).
=20
 I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium chloride; ca=
rs of that era were designed and built to last for only a few years before =
being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over 205K miles and is going st=
rong (but shows her age).
=20
 So, Alan, what did you decide?
=20
=20
 On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
 =20
=20
 Bob wrote:=C2=A0 "I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a=
 pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubb=
er parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less =
antagonistic to rubber." -------------------------------------------- 50 to=
 75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Maybe we should n=
ow be searching for silicon-based motor oils?=20
  Best--Michael Oritt =20
  On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:
 =20
  re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which origina=
ls are now reaching."
=20
 I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh envi=
ronment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a pe=
troleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to ru=
bber.
=20
 Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal 'slinger' =
plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an original plate to one o=
f their newer replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?
=20
=20
 On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
 =20
  Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up of the =
rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently disasse=
mbled had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the origin=
al tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which or=
iginals are now reaching.=20
  M
  =20
  On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys@autox.=
team.net> wrote:
 =20
  In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:=C2=A0 "By=
 no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine."=20
  About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump=
 and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black plastic dist=
ributed throughout the sump.=C2=A0 This was a head scratcher as I knew ther=
e could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was.=C2=A0 Afte=
r thinking=C2=A0about it further I decided that it could only have been the=
 remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled=
 the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent=C2=A0and the cha=
in pretty loose.=C2=A0 I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job-=
-and magically a chattering sound that had been=C2=A0appearing at certain r=
pm's=C2=A0disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timing cha=
in.=20
  Best--Michael Oritt =20
  On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote=
:
 =20
Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one=20
 piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the=20
 tailpipe.
=20
 By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.
=20
 Bob
=20
=20
 On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
 > All -
 >
 > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came=20
 > It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one=20
 > sells.=C2=A0 I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it,=20
 > correct?=C2=A0 It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worrie=
d=20
 > but would prefer to not=C2=A0 put it back on and have old rubber parts=
=20
 > getting into the oil.
 >
 > Am I correct to=C2=A0not put it back on?=C2=A0 No one seems to sell thes=
e.
=20
 =20
 =20
 =20
 =20

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e

[email-masked]

[email-masked]

 =20
------=_Part_1342889_926053506.1614034218744
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microso=
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if gte mso 9]><xml><o:OfficeDocumentSettings><o:AllowPNG/><o:PixelsPerInch>=
96</o:PixelsPerInch></o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--></head><bo=
dy><div class=3D"ydpf4484543yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:times ne=
w roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:16px;">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">I use Kopr-Shield when assem=
bling Lucas bullet connectors.&nbsp; Did this 21 years ago with my Bugeye a=
nd not one problem with connections corroding yet.&nbsp; Never hardens and =
does not allow corrosion in electrical joints while while aiding conductivi=
ty.&nbsp; It is also used as an anti-sieze compound.<br></div><div><br></di=
v><div><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><a href=3D"https://=
www.amazon.com/THOMAS-CP8-TB-Container-Kopr-shield-Compound/dp/B07S2RQWN9" =
rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank" class=3D"enhancr_card_4080093625">THOMAS=
 &amp; BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Compound=
</a></div><div><br></div><div id=3D"ydp3b4106f3enhancr_card_4080093625" cla=
ss=3D"ydp3b4106f3yahoo-link-enhancr-card ydp3b4106f3yahoo-link-enhancr-not-=
allow-cover ydp3b4106f3ymail-preserve-class ydp3b4106f3ymail-preserve-style=
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data-size=3D"MEDIUM" contenteditable=3D"false"><a href=3D"https://www.amazo=
n.com/THOMAS-CP8-TB-Container-Kopr-shield-Compound/dp/B07S2RQWN9" style=3D"=
text-decoration-line: none !important; text-decoration-style: solid !import=
ant; text-decoration-color: currentcolor !important; color: rgb(0, 0, 0) !i=
mportant;" class=3D"ydp3b4106f3yahoo-enhancr-cardlink" rel=3D"nofollow" tar=
get=3D"_blank"><table class=3D"ydp3b4106f3card-wrapper ydp3b4106f3yahoo-ign=
ore-table" style=3D"max-width:400px" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" bo=
rder=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td width=3D"400"><table class=3D"ydp3b4106f3card ydp=
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r-style:solid;border-color:rgb(224, 228, 233);border-radius:2px" width=3D"1=
00%" cellspacing=3D"0" cellpadding=3D"0" border=3D"0"><tbody><tr><td><table=
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elative; z-index: 2; width: 100%; max-width: 400px; border-radius: 0px 0px =
2px 2px; border-top: 1px solid rgb(224, 228, 233);" cellspacing=3D"0" cellp=
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dth:99%;font-family:YahooSans, Helvetica Neue, Segoe UI, Helvetica, Arial, =
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le=3D"font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px; margin: 0px 0px 6px; font-family:=
 YahooSans, Helvetica Neue, Segoe UI, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; color: =
rgb(38, 40, 42); max-width: 314px;">THOMAS &amp; BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Conta=
iner with Brush Kopr-shield Joint Com...</h2><p class=3D"ydp3b4106f3card-de=
scription" style=3D"font-size: 12px; line-height: 16px; margin: 0px; color:=
 rgb(151, 155, 167);">THOMAS &amp; BETTS CP8-TB 8 Ounce Container with Brus=
h Kopr-shield Joint Compound</p></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody=
></table></td></tr></tbody></table></a></div></div><div class=3D"ydpf448454=
3yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-family:times new roman, new york, times, s=
erif;font-size:16px;"><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Mike MacLean<b=
r></div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"yahoo_quoted_4070815905" class=3D"yahoo_quoted">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div>
                    On Monday, February 22, 2021, 8:09:07 AM PST, Bob Spide=
ll &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"yiv0473945703"><div>
    That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil
    filter gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our
    ancient electrical connectors--my dad's Model As used the same
    type--seems to help prevent some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a
    silicone 'oil' where light lubrication is needed and dirt and dust
    can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on starters come to
    mind).<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium
    chloride; cars of that era were designed and built to last for only
    a few years before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over
    205K miles and is going strong (but shows her age).<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    So, Alan, what did you decide?<br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    <br clear=3D"none">
    <div class=3D"yiv0473945703yqt6555291473" id=3D"yiv0473945703yqtfd33266=
"><div class=3D"yiv0473945703moz-cite-prefix">On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael=
 Oritt
      wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
      </blockquote></div></div><div class=3D"yiv0473945703yqt6555291473" id=
=3D"yiv0473945703yqtfd48785"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">
        <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><span style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255);">Bob wrote:&nbsp; </span><font color=3D"#0000ff">"I'=
m surprised they lasted this long--if
            they did--it's a pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a
            rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a
            petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less
            antagonistic to rubber."</font></div>
        <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D=
"#0000ff">--------------------------------------------</font></div>
        <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D=
"#0000ff">50 to
            75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.&nbsp;&nbsp;</font>=
</div>
        <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D=
"#0000ff">Maybe
            we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils?</font>=
</div>
        <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D=
"#0000ff"><br clear=3D"none">
          </font></div>
        <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D=
"#0000ff">Best--Michael
            Oritt</font></div>
      </div>
      <br clear=3D"none">
      <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote">
        <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Feb 21, =
2021 at 3:47
          PM Bob Spidell &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=
=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=
=3D"none">
        </div>
        <blockquote class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
          <div> re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite
            life which originals are now reaching."<br clear=3D"none">
            <br clear=3D"none">
            I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a
            pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't
            lubricate any rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or
            oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.<br cle=
ar=3D"none">
            <br clear=3D"none">
            Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the
            metal 'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises
            transferring an original plate to one of their newer
            replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?<br clear=
=3D"none">
            <br clear=3D"none">
            <br clear=3D"none">
            <div>On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys
              wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
            </div>
            <blockquote type=3D"cite">
              <div dir=3D"ltr">
                <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"font-fam=
ily:sans sans-serif;font-size:small;">Until fairly
                  recent years I had never experienced the breaking up
                  of the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but
                  the engine I recently disassembled had one that was
                  completely destroyed. Apparently this was the original
                  tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a
                  definite life which originals are now reaching.</div>
                <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"font-fam=
ily:sans sans-serif;font-size:small;"><br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"font-fam=
ily:sans sans-serif;font-size:small;">M<br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
              </div>
              <br clear=3D"none">
              <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote">
                <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, =
Feb 21, 2021
                  at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys &lt;<a rel=3D"nofoll=
ow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
.net" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">healeys@auto=
x.team.net</a>&gt;
                  wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <blockquote class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote" style=3D"mar=
gin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1=
ex;">
                  <div dir=3D"ltr">
                    <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255);">In the string about
                      rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:&nbsp; "By
                      no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside
                      of an engine."</div>
                    <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255);"><br clear=3D"none">
                    </div>
                    <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255);">About a year back I
                      dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil
                      pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
                      very hard black plastic distributed throughout the
                      sump.&nbsp; This was a head scratcher as I knew there
                      could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet
                      there it was.&nbsp; After thinking&nbsp;about it furt=
her I
                      decided that it could only have been the remains
                      of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure
                      enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that
                      the tensioner was non-existent&nbsp;and the chain
                      pretty loose.&nbsp; I replaced the chain and
                      tensioner--not an easy job--and magically a
                      chattering sound that had been&nbsp;appearing at
                      certain rpm's&nbsp;disappeared, no doubt a harmonic
                      rattling of the loose timing chain.</div>
                    <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255);"><br clear=3D"none">
                    </div>
                    <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255);">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
                  </div>
                  <br clear=3D"none">
                  <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote">
                    <div class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On S=
un, Feb 21,
                      2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell &lt;<a rel=3D"nofollow n=
oopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
</a>&gt;
                      wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                    </div>
                    <blockquote class=3D"yiv0473945703gmail_quote" style=3D=
"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-le=
ft:1ex;">Most mechanics
                      favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think
                      they're one <br clear=3D"none">
                      piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires
                      blue smoke from the <br clear=3D"none">
                      tailpipe.<br clear=3D"none">
                      <br clear=3D"none">
                      By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the
                      inside of an engine.<br clear=3D"none">
                      <br clear=3D"none">
                      Bob<br clear=3D"none">
                      <br clear=3D"none">
                      <br clear=3D"none">
                      On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys
                      wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt; All -<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt;<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt; On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust
                      valves and this seal came <br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt; off the upper part of the valve guide.<br clear=
=3D"none">
                      &gt;<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt; It seems this is an original style valve seal
                      shroud which no one <br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt; sells.&nbsp; I assume the best thing is to remov=
e
                      it and chuck it, <br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt; correct?&nbsp; It's already half disintegrated a=
nd
                      I'm not really worried <br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt; but would prefer to not&nbsp; put it back on and
                      have old rubber parts <br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt; getting into the oil.<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt;<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt; Am I correct to&nbsp;not put it back on?&nbsp; N=
o one
                      seems to sell these.<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt;<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt; Best,<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt;<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt; Alan<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt;<br clear=3D"none">
                      &gt;<br clear=3D"none">
                    </blockquote>
                  </div>
                </blockquote>
              </div>
            </blockquote>
          </div>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
   =20
    <br clear=3D"none">
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Alan Seigrist via Healeys <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 2021 09:32:52 +0800

--===============8009406155440672191==

--0000000000004bb35e05bbf6e6d1

Hi Bob -

I learned a little something this time, what was on there was a ford style
valve seal (see https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9725).   I was
confused because the parts book shows something called a "valve shroud"
(item 49 here
https://mossmotors.com/austin-healey-100-100-6-3000/engine-performance/cylinder-head/cylinder-head-100-4)
but I now understand this is something completely different than what I
took off my car.  This original "shroud" is NLA.

Ultimately the A90 is low compression/low power/single valve spring so I'm
not really too concerned to get it all perfectly set up.  I just replaced
the little o ring seal and put the valve back together - good enough for
government work - I don't mind a little blue smoke when I start it... makes
me feel like I'm firing up the wright cyclone as I'm heading out in my SBD
looking for the Akagi.

The main thing is the valve has been lapped and seated properly.  Head is
easy enough to pull so if I have to do it again, it's not a big deal.  If
I'm motivated I might put the ford type seals on the car... meh?

Best,

Alan

On Tue, Feb 23, 2021 at 12:09 AM Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:

> gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our ancient electrical
> connectors--my dad's Model As used the same type--seems to help prevent
> some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a silicone 'oil' where light lubrication
> is needed and dirt and dust can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on
> starters come to mind).
>
> before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over 205K miles and is
> going strong (but shows her age).
>

--0000000000004bb35e05bbf6e6d1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Bob -<div><br></div><div>I learned a l=
ittle something this time, what was on there was a ford style valve seal (s=
ee=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9725">https://www=
.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9725</a>).=C2=A0 =C2=A0I was confused because t=
he parts book shows something called a &quot;valve shroud&quot;=C2=A0 (item=
 49 here=C2=A0<a href=3D"https://mossmotors.com/austin-healey-100-100-6-300=
0/engine-performance/cylinder-head/cylinder-head-100-4">https://mossmotors.=
com/austin-healey-100-100-6-3000/engine-performance/cylinder-head/cylinder-=
head-100-4</a>) but I now understand this is something completely different=
 than what I took off my car.=C2=A0 This original &quot;shroud&quot; is NLA=
.</div><div><br></div><div>Ultimately the A90 is low compression/low power/=
single valve spring so I&#39;m not really too concerned to get it all perfe=
ctly set up.=C2=A0 I just replaced the little o ring seal and put the valve=
 back together - good enough for government work - I don&#39;t mind a littl=
e blue smoke when I start it... makes me feel like=C2=A0I&#39;m firing up t=
he wright cyclone as I&#39;m heading out in my SBD looking for the Akagi.=
=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>The main thing is the valve has been =
lapped and seated=C2=A0properly.=C2=A0 Head is easy enough to pull so if I =
have to do it again, it&#39;s not a big deal.=C2=A0 If I&#39;m motivated I =
might put the ford type seals on the car... meh?</div><div><br></div><div>B=
est,</div><div><br></div><div>Alan</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote=
"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Feb 23, 2021 at 12:09 AM Bo=
b Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]<=
/a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0=
px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil
    filter gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our
    ancient electrical connectors--my dad&#39;s Model As used the same
    type--seems to help prevent some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a
    silicone &#39;oil&#39; where light lubrication is needed and dirt and d=
ust
    can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on starters come to
    mind).<br>
    <br>
    I&#39;m taking the &#39;50 to 75&#39; years &#39;spec&#39; with a grain=
 of sodium
    chloride; cars of that era were designed and built to last for only
    a few years before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over
    205K miles and is going strong (but shows her age).<br>
    <br>
    So, Alan, what did you decide?<br></div>
</blockquote></div></div>

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[email-masked]

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