Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit

From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 19:10:58 +1000

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Greetings

All fixed and running as I wanted it to.

Many thanks to everyone who took the trouble to write and let me know their=
 thoughts. Much appreciated!

As much as realise that they work, I wanted to remove the thermo switch con=
trol of the electric fan. Remember this is a real Healey that dates from 19=
48 and the under-bonnet switch with its wires and capillary tube just looke=
d out of place and plain ugly. What I eventually did was to run a power wir=
e from the input of the combined ignition/light switch, through an inline f=
use to a switch and on to the fan which is earthed at the side of the radia=
tor.

Works well and does not impact on the ignition light. It does of course sen=
d the ammeter needle way into the negative, but it did that before when it =
was controlled by the thermo switch.

I managed to hide the wires so under the bonnet looks like it did when it l=
eft the Donald Healey Motor Company in 1948.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

From: Michael Salter [mailto:[email-masked]] 
Sent: Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:09 PM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Cc: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit

Hi Patrick,  I would agree that using the fused connection on the "ignition=
 switched" side of the fuse block as the source would be a good idea. The i=
gnition switch is not fuse protected so by using that as a source you do ru=
n a risk of "letting the smoke out" should a short to ground occur in your =
fan system. 

You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are more than the fuse=
s can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous loads in =
mind. 

To circumvent that issue you could use the unfused side of the "ignition sw=
itched" section of the fuse block as the source and install an "in line" fu=
se to protect the fan circuit. 

I cannot overemphasize the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a =
fuse, it very easy to damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major =
undertaking. 

M

On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, <[email-masked]=
u> wrote:

Hello

 Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics.

 My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that was contr=
olled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of p=
ower but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would always hov=
er in the negative. 

 Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been w=
ired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is take=
n directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan on=
ly comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.

 Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated=
 and will not go out.

 Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have =
done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of th=
e ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would=
 that work?

 Any electrical whizzes out there?

 Thanks

 Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia 

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-AU link=3Dblue vli=
nk=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'f=
ont-size:11.0pt'>Greetings<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal=
><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>All fixed and running as I wanted it to.<=
o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>=
<o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:1=
1.0pt'>Many thanks to everyone who took the trouble to write and let me kno=
w their thoughts. Much appreciated!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNorm=
al><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D=
MsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>As much as realise that they wor=
k, I wanted to remove the thermo switch control of the electric fan. Rememb=
er this is a real Healey that dates from 1948 and the under-bonnet switch w=
ith its wires and capillary tube just looked out of place and plain ugly. W=
hat I eventually did was to run a power wire from the input of the combined=
 ignition/light switch, through an inline fuse to a switch and on to the fa=
n which is earthed at the side of the radiator.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p=
><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>Works well and does =
not impact on the ignition light. It does of course send the ammeter needle=
 way into the negative, but it did that before when it was controlled by th=
e thermo switch.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'f=
ont-size:11.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span sty=
le=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>I managed to hide the wires so under the bonnet loo=
ks like it did when it left the Donald Healey Motor Company in 1948.<o:p></=
o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p>&=
nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'=
>Hoo Roo<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size=
:11.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'fo=
nt-size:11.0pt'>Patrick Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><sp=
an style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'>Blue Mountains, Australia<o:p></o:p></span></=
p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></=
span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US style=3D'font-size:10.0=
pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US st=
yle=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Michael Salter =
[mailto:[email-masked]] <br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:0=
9 PM<br><b>To:</b> Patrick and Caroline Quinn<br><b>Cc:</b> [email-masked]=
eam.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit<o:p></o:p></span>=
</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Hi =
Patrick,&nbsp; I would agree that using the fused connection on the &quot;i=
gnition switched&quot; side of the fuse block as the source would be a&nbsp=
;good idea. The ignition switch is not fuse protected so by using that as a=
 source you do run a risk of &quot;letting the smoke out&quot; should a sho=
rt to ground occur in your fan system.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3D=
MsoNormal>You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are more tha=
n the fuses can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous=
 loads in mind.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>To circ=
umvent that issue you could use the unfused side of the &quot;<span style=
=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>ignition switched&quot; section of th=
e fuse block as the source and install an &quot;in line&quot; fuse to prote=
ct the fan circuit.&nbsp;</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNor=
mal><span style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>I cannot overemphasize=
 the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a fuse, it very easy to =
damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major undertaking.&nbsp;</sp=
an><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></di=
v><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"=
'>M</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p>=
</p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick &a=
mp; Caroline Quinn, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_b=
lank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote st=
yle=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm 6.0p=
t;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal style=
=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Hello<o:p></o:p></p=
><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-al=
t:auto'>&nbsp;Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics=
=2E<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso=
-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;My real Healey has an electric fan in front =
of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably w=
ell, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp=
 gauge needle would always hover in the negative. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&=
nbsp;Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now be=
en wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is =
taken directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fa=
n only comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.<o:p=
></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin=
-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;Works well, but now when the fan goes on the igniti=
on light is illuminated and will not go out.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNo=
rmal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;Doe=
s that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have done=
? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the ig=
nition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would tha=
t work?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto=
;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;Any electrical whizzes out there?<o:p></=
o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bo=
ttom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;Thanks<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso=
-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>&nbsp;Patrick Quinn<o:p></=
o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bo=
ttom-alt:auto'>Blue Mountains, Australia <o:p></o:p></p></div></div></block=
quote></div></div><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
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_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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---

From: Per Schoerner <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:53:15 +0200

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Patrick
Ideally you should control a relay by that switch, and connect the relay dir=
ectly to the battery and the fan.=20

Per

Skickat fr=C3=A5n min iPhone

> 2 juni 2019 kl. 11:10 skrev Patrick & Caroline Quinn <[email-masked]>=
:
>=20
> =20
> =20
> Many thanks to everyone who took the trouble to write and let me know thei=
r thoughts. Much appreciated!
> =20
> As much as realise that they work, I wanted to remove the thermo switch co=
ntrol of the electric fan. Remember this is a real Healey that dates from 19=
48 and the under-bonnet switch with its wires and capillary tube just looked=
 out of place and plain ugly. What I eventually did was to run a power wire f=
rom the input of the combined ignition/light switch, through an inline fuse t=
o a switch and on to the fan which is earthed at the side of the radiator.
> =20
> Works well and does not impact on the ignition light. It does of course se=
nd the ammeter needle way into the negative, but it did that before when it w=
as controlled by the thermo switch.
> =20
> =20
> =20
> =20
> From: Michael Salter [mailto:[email-masked]]=20
> =20
> Hi Patrick,  I would agree that using the fused connection on the "ignitio=
n switched" side of the fuse block as the source would be a good idea. The i=
gnition switch is not fuse protected so by using that as a source you do run=
 a risk of "letting the smoke out" should a short to ground occur in your fa=
n system.=20
> You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are more than the fus=
es can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous loads in m=
ind.=20
> To circumvent that issue you could use the unfused side of the "ignition s=
witched" section of the fuse block as the source and install an "in line" fu=
se to protect the fan circuit.=20
> I cannot overemphasize the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a=
 fuse, it very easy to damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major u=
ndertaking.=20
> =20
> M
> =20
> On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, <[email-masked].=
au> wrote:
>  My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that was cont=
rolled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of p=
ower but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would always hove=
r in the negative.
>  Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been w=
ired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken=
 directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan only=
 comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.
>  Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminate=
d and will not go out.
>  Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have=
 done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of th=
e ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would t=
hat work?
>=20
>=20
>   			 		=09
>=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Patrick<div>Ideally you should control a re=
lay by that switch, and connect the relay directly to the battery and the fa=
n.&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>Per<br><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature" d=
ir=3D"ltr">Skickat fr=C3=A5n min iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>2 juni 201=
9 kl. 11:10 skrev Patrick &amp; Caroline Quinn &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:p_cquin=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"=
cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/htm=
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">Greetings<o:p></o:p></span></p><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">All fixed and ru=
nning as I wanted it to.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span s=
tyle=3D"font-size:11.0pt"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"=
><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">Many thanks to everyone who took the troub=
le to write and let me know their thoughts. Much appreciated!<o:p></o:p></sp=
an></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt"><o:p>&nbsp;</=
o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">As mu=
ch as realise that they work, I wanted to remove the thermo switch control o=
f the electric fan. Remember this is a real Healey that dates from 1948 and t=
he under-bonnet switch with its wires and capillary tube just looked out of p=
lace and plain ugly. What I eventually did was to run a power wire from the i=
nput of the combined ignition/light switch, through an inline fuse to a swit=
ch and on to the fan which is earthed at the side of the radiator.<o:p></o:p=
></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt"><o:p>&nb=
sp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">=
Works well and does not impact on the ignition light. It does of course send=
 the ammeter needle way into the negative, but it did that before when it wa=
s controlled by the thermo switch.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">I managed to hide the wires so u=
nder the bonnet looks like it did when it left the Donald Healey Motor Compa=
ny in 1948.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-=
size:11.0pt"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D=
"font-size:11.0pt">Hoo Roo<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span=
 style=3D"font-size:11.0pt"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNorma=
l"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">Patrick Quinn<o:p></o:p></span></p><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">Blue Mountains, Australia=
<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt=
"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span lang=3D"EN-US"=
 style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&q=
uot;">From:</span></b><span lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-fa=
mily:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;"> Michael Salter [<a href=3D"=
mailto:[email-masked]">mailto:[email-masked]</a>] <br><b>S=
ent:</b> Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:09 PM<br><b>To:</b> Patrick and Caroline Qu=
inn<br><b>Cc:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
am.net</a><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit<o:p></o:p></spa=
n></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal=
">Hi Patrick,&nbsp; I would agree that using the fused connection on the "ig=
nition switched" side of the fuse block as the source would be a&nbsp;good i=
dea. The ignition switch is not fuse protected so by using that as a source y=
ou do run a risk of "letting the smoke out" should a short to ground occur i=
n your fan system.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">You may f=
ind that the electrical demands of your fan are more than the fuses can hand=
le as the system was not designed with heavy continuous loads in mind.&nbsp;=
<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">To circumvent that issue yo=
u could use the unfused side of the "<span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Arial&=
quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;">ignition switched" section of the fuse block a=
s the source and install an "in line" fuse to protect the fan circuit.&nbsp;=
</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-=
family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;">I cannot overemphasize the i=
mportance of protecting the fan circuit with a fuse, it very easy to damage a=
 wiring harness and replacing one is a major undertaking.&nbsp;</span><o:p><=
/o:p></p></div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div><div><=
p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;san=
s-serif&quot;">M</span><o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:1=
7 AM Patrick &amp; Caroline Quinn, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><=
blockquote style=3D"border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0=
cm 0cm 6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm"><div><div><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto">Hello<o:p=
></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margi=
n-bottom-alt:auto">&nbsp;Seeking advice from those who understand automotive=
 electrics.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt=
:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto">&nbsp;My real Healey has an electric fan i=
n front of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reaso=
nably well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, t=
he amp gauge needle would always hover in the negative. <o:p></o:p></p><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:aut=
o">&nbsp;Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now=
 been wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power i=
s taken directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the f=
an only comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.<o:p=
></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margi=
n-bottom-alt:auto">&nbsp;Works well, but now when the fan goes on the igniti=
on light is illuminated and will not go out.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNo=
rmal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto">&nbsp;Doe=
s that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have done?=
 I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the igni=
tion switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would that w=
ork?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt:auto;m=
so-margin-bottom-alt:auto">&nbsp;Any electrical whizzes out there?<o:p></o:p=
></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bott=
om-alt:auto">&nbsp;Thanks<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-=
margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto">&nbsp;Patrick Quinn<o:p></o:=
p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bot=
tom-alt:auto">Blue Mountains, Australia <o:p></o:p></p></div></div></blockqu=
ote></div></div><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
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