Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Voltage regulator

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2019 21:01:34 -0400

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Hi Oliver, not sure if this will help but I  chased a similar problem many
years back which turned out to be caused by a poor but not completely
failed ground of the regulator E terminal.
Might be worth checking that carefully.

M

On Sun, Jun 30, 2019, 8:43 PM Oliver Viitamaki, <[email-masked]> wrote:

>
>      What is the current thought on getting a replacement for a RB340
> Voltage Regulator? Which supplier? I'm at the moment not interested in
> sending the regulator in for a rebuild.
>
>      The car is still positive ground, and I'm leaning to a replacement
> mechanical regulator, assuming that a Lucas one can be found. I can be
> convinced to go electronic, and convert to negative ground, given enough
> evidence.
>
>       Background: I went to wash the car, and noticed that the red
> Ignition light came on, as it should, when the key was turned, went off
> as expected when the engine was idling. As soon as the engine was
> speed-ed up, at about 1500 rpm, the ignition light would brighten, come
> back on. Troubleshooting so far, I completed the Lucas RB340 generator
> checkout, procedure successfully, and as a crosscheck, I successfully
> ran it as a motor. Then I turned my focus to the Lucas RB340 regulator
> checkout procedure, and it showed that Open Circuit setting out of spec,
> could not be adjusted in and the swamp resistor was out of spec.
>
>      ov
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">Hi Oliver, not sure if this will help but I=C2=A0 chased =
a similar problem many years back which turned out to be caused by a poor b=
ut not completely failed ground of the regulator E terminal.=C2=A0<div dir=
=3D"auto">Might be worth checking that carefully.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"au=
to"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"=
><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Jun 30, 2019, 8:43 PM Oliver=
 Viitamaki, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:=
<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;bord=
er-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 What is the current thought on getting a replaceme=
nt for a RB340 <br>
Voltage Regulator? Which supplier? I&#39;m at the moment not interested in =
<br>
sending the regulator in for a rebuild.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 The car is still positive ground, and I&#39;m lean=
ing to a replacement <br>
mechanical regulator, assuming that a Lucas one can be found. I can be <br>
convinced to go electronic, and convert to negative ground, given enough <b=
r>
evidence.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 Background: I went to wash the car, and noti=
ced that the red <br>
Ignition light came on, as it should, when the key was turned, went off <br=
as expected when the engine was idling. As soon as the engine was <br>
speed-ed up, at about 1500 rpm, the ignition light would brighten, come <br=
back on. Troubleshooting so far, I completed the Lucas RB340 generator <br>
checkout, procedure successfully, and as a crosscheck, I successfully <br>
ran it as a motor. Then I turned my focus to the Lucas RB340 regulator <br>
checkout procedure, and it showed that Open Circuit setting out of spec, <b=
r>
could not be adjusted in and the swamp resistor was out of spec.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 ov<br>
<br>
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</blockquote></div>

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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2019 19:02:32 -0700

I had a VR fail on a long road trip--it started overcharging and I got 
an acid leak in the boot.  I don't recall for sure, but I think it was a 
re-pop.  When I had a starter rebuilt by Star Auto Electric Mike, the 
owner, strongly recommended the one he sells, and I sprung for it.  It's 
worked for 10-15K miles.  I'm not sure, but it might be this one:

http://starautoelectric.com/product/ncb-133/

OTOH, there are cheaper alternatives:

https://www.bpnorthwest.com/voltage-regulator-rb340-33-amp.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-czdmMuS4wIVkfhkCh1GkQVWEAQYAiABEgIwivD_BwE

The BPN people are pretty knowledgeable, I'd call both Star and them and 
see what you think (and Moss, and Vicky Brit, and Tom's Imports, etc.).  
If you have an original cover, it will transplant to a new re-pop.  The 
OEM VRs are overbuilt, but the re-pops all look flimsy inside compared 
to them; e.g. the 'dials' used for adjustment are thin sheet metal 
compared to OEM (if anyone really cares I can get photos).

Side Note: Star does excellent work--I was having starter issues on my 
BN2 that Star had rebuilt, and I took it to a local shop and he said the 
rebuild was excellent--but I paid for paint and it arrived in primer.  
When I let him know he went 'radio silent' on me.  The starting issue 
was caused by too much paint causing a bad ground.

Bob

ps.  I've got a drawer full of VRs, if anyone knows a really good 
rebuilder I'd send a couple in for spares.

On 6/30/2019 5:42 PM, Oliver Viitamaki wrote:
> convinced to go electronic, and convert to negative ground, given 
> enough evidence.
>
> Ignition light came on, as it should, when the key was turned, went 
> off as expected when the engine was idling. As soon as the engine was 
> speed-ed up, at about 1500 rpm, the ignition light would brighten, 
> come back on. Troubleshooting so far, I completed the Lucas RB340 
> generator checkout, procedure successfully, and as a crosscheck, I 
> successfully ran it as a motor. Then I turned my focus to the Lucas 
> RB340 regulator checkout procedure, and it showed that Open Circuit 
> setting out of spec, could not be adjusted in and the swamp resistor 
> was out of spec.
>
>     ov
>
>
>

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