Subject: [Healeys] Shock Tower

From: <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2019 04:58:36 +0000 (UTC)

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=C2=A0I removed the shock to replace the rubber rebound. One came off nicel=
y and went back nicely.=C2=A0 The other not so good.=C2=A0 The back bolts w=
ere loose.=C2=A0 When I took the shock off I discovered the nuts that recei=
ved the bolts had release from the tower and were not connecting to the bol=
ts.=C2=A0 Any suggestion on how to fix are greatly appreciated!!!!Thank Ger=
ry

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<div class="yiv6383505268MsoNormal">I removed the shock to replace the rubber rebound. One came off nicely and went back nicely.&nbsp; The other not so good.&nbsp; The back bolts were loose.&nbsp; When I took the shock off I discovered the nuts that received the bolts had release from the tower and were not connecting to the bolts.&nbsp; Any suggestion on how to fix are greatly appreciated!!!!</div>

<div class="yiv6383505268MsoNormal">Thank Gerry</div>
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From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2019 11:30:20 -0500

Gerry,

I had one of the outside nuts break loose.  I was able to screw a bolt 
into the nut, pull the nut up against the plate and TIG weld it into place.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 MkI registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 2/16/19 11:58 PM, [email-masked] wrote:
> 
> 
>     I removed the shock to replace the rubber rebound. One came off
>     nicely and went back nicely.  The other not so good.  The back bolts
>     were loose.  When I took the shock off I discovered the nuts that
>     received the bolts had release from the tower and were not
>     connecting to the bolts.  Any suggestion on how to fix are greatly
>     appreciated!!!!
>     Thank Gerry
> 
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> 
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From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 11:23:58 +1300

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Hi Gerry,
The problem that you have encountered is not too uncommon, or at least used
to be.
We developed a repair scheme that we used quite frequently to resolve this.
The process involved cutting the outer end off the "box" that the the shock
mounts on and then using a punch of some sort to break all the "weld nuts"
from the upper surface of the "box".
We then cut a piece of 1/2" (I think that is the correct thickness) thick
hot rolled steel plate to size such that it would snugly slide completely
inside the "box".
Using the existing holes in the upper surface of the "box" as a template
the 4 holes for the shock bolts and 2 holes for the rebound rubber were
marked out. The plate was then removed (sometimes it was necessary to drill
a hole in the inner end of the "box" and use a parallel punch to drive the
plate out) and drilled and tapped for the appropriate threads before being
reinserted and welded at the outer end to secure it in position.
A little time consuming but the end result was a very strong, almost
undetectable  permanent repair.

Michael S

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 10:52 AM Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
wrote:

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> >
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"fon=
t-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Gerry,</div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size=
:small">The problem that you have encountered is not too uncommon, or at le=
ast used to be.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comi=
c sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">We developed a repair scheme that we =
used quite frequently to resolve this.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" st=
yle=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The process in=
volved cutting the outer end off the &quot;box&quot; that the the shock mou=
nts on and then using a punch of some sort to break all the &quot;weld nuts=
&quot; from the upper surface of the &quot;box&quot;.</div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"=
>We then cut a piece of 1/2&quot; (I think that is the correct thickness) t=
hick hot rolled steel plate to size such that it would snugly slide complet=
ely inside the &quot;box&quot;. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" styl=
e=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Using the existi=
ng holes in the upper surface of the &quot;box&quot; as a template the 4 ho=
les for the shock bolts and 2 holes for the rebound rubber were marked out.=
 The plate was then removed (sometimes it was necessary to drill a hole in =
the inner end of the &quot;box&quot; and use a parallel punch to drive the =
plate out) and drilled and tapped for the appropriate threads before being =
reinserted and welded at the outer end to secure it in position.</div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-=
size:small">A little time consuming but the end result was a very strong, a=
lmost undetectable=C2=A0 permanent repair. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_de=
fault" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br><=
/div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-s=
erif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quot=
e"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 10:52 AM B=
ob Haskell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">rchaskell@earthli=
nk.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"m=
argin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left=
:1ex">Gerry,<br>
<br>
I had one of the outside nuts break loose.=C2=A0 I was able to screw a bolt=
 <br>
into the nut, pull the nut up against the plate and TIG weld it into place.=
<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Bob Haskell<br>
Austin Healey 3000 MkI registrar<br>
<a href=3D"http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php" rel=3D"noreferrer" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php</a><br>
<br>
On 2/16/19 11:58 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_=
blank">[email-masked]</a> wrote:<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I removed the shock to replace the rubber rebound. =
One came off<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0nicely and went back nicely.=C2=A0 The other not so=
 good.=C2=A0 The back bolts<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0were loose.=C2=A0 When I took the shock off I disco=
vered the nuts that<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0received the bolts had release from the tower and w=
ere not<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0connecting to the bolts.=C2=A0 Any suggestion on ho=
w to fix are greatly<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0appreciated!!!!<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Thank Gerry<br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; <br>
&gt; _______________________________________________<br>
&gt; Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"no=
referrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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</blockquote></div></div>

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[email-masked]

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From: Tom Felts <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2019 20:10:50 -0500 (EST)

How did you get to the nut to weld it?  Isn't it captive under the mount?

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked], [email-masked]
Sent: Sun, 17 Feb 2019 11:30:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shock Tower

Gerry,

Cheers,

Bob Haskell

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

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---

From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2019 20:23:26 -0500

Tom,

Lucky I guess.  I was able to screw a long bolt into the nut and then 
pull the nut back into position by lifting up on the bolt.  Held the 
shank of the bolt while the nut was welded to the plate.  Filed the weld 
flat.  The hole in the plate is larger than the bolt, accepting a boss 
on one face of the nut.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell

[email-masked]

---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2019 19:20:35 -0800

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Sounds not unlike: http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&new=1

In case replacement of the mounting plate is necessary, how do those 
that have done it locate the new plate on the tower?  Of course, you can 
adjust the camber, but how do you position the plate before welding to 
get the correct caster?  I've given it quite a bit of thought and, short 
of welding or bolting some type of 'jig' on the top of the tower I can't 
see how to easily, and accurately, do it.

Bob

On 2/17/2019 2:23 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Gerry,
> The problem that you have encountered is not too uncommon, or at least 
> used to be.
> The process involved cutting the outer end off the "box" that the the 
> shock mounts on and then using a punch of some sort to break all the 
> "weld nuts" from the upper surface of the "box".
> We then cut a piece of 1/2" (I think that is the correct thickness) 
> thick hot rolled steel plate to size such that it would snugly slide 
> completely inside the "box".
> Using the existing holes in the upper surface of the "box" as a 
> template the 4 holes for the shock bolts and 2 holes for the rebound 
> rubber were marked out. The plate was then removed (sometimes it was 
> necessary to drill a hole in the inner end of the "box" and use a 
> parallel punch to drive the plate out) and drilled and tapped for the 
> appropriate threads before being reinserted and welded at the outer 
> end to secure it in position.
> On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 10:52 AM Bob Haskell <[email-masked] 
>

--------------210B1517E52C8ED112D1D0A2
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>Sounds not unlike:
      <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&amp;new=1">http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=30&amp;new=1</a></p>
    <p>In case replacement of the mounting plate is necessary, how do
      those that have done it locate the new plate on the tower?  Of
      course, you can adjust the camber, but how do you position the
      plate before welding to get the correct caster?  I've given it
      quite a bit of thought and, short of welding or bolting some type
      of 'jig' on the top of the tower I can't see how to easily, and
      accurately, do it.</p>
    <p>Bob<br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/17/2019 2:23 PM, Michael Salter
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div dir="ltr">
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Gerry,</div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The problem that you have
            encountered is not too uncommon, or at least used to be.</div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">We developed a repair scheme
            that we used quite frequently to resolve this.</div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The process involved cutting
            the outer end off the "box" that the the shock mounts on and
            then using a punch of some sort to break all the "weld nuts"
            from the upper surface of the "box".</div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">We then cut a piece of 1/2"
            (I think that is the correct thickness) thick hot rolled
            steel plate to size such that it would snugly slide
            completely inside the "box". <br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Using the existing holes in
            the upper surface of the "box" as a template the 4 holes for
            the shock bolts and 2 holes for the rebound rubber were
            marked out. The plate was then removed (sometimes it was
            necessary to drill a hole in the inner end of the "box" and
            use a parallel punch to drive the plate out) and drilled and
            tapped for the appropriate threads before being reinserted
            and welded at the outer end to secure it in position.</div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">A little time consuming but
            the end result was a very strong, almost undetectable 
            permanent repair. <br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br>
          </div>
        </div>
        <br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">
          <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at
            10:52 AM Bob Haskell &lt;<a
              href="mailto:[email-masked]"
              moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a>&gt;
            wrote:<br>
          </div>
          <br>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
  </body>
</html>

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[email-masked]

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