Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem

From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2018 10:06:41 -0400

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About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate
which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified
that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts
with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that
the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially
encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when
turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the
problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just
to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came
on. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full
blast to low just as it always had.

I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power
lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a
typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that
should I simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some
point in the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a
replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity to
repaint the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the
top opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the
windshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.

Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you
who have experienced similar situations a laugh.

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><font=
 color=3D"#3333FF" style=3D"font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva=
,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style=
=3D"font-family:Arial">About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of t=
he heater face-plate which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switc=
h. I first verified that there was power to the switch and then jumped acro=
ss the two posts with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, t=
elling me that the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when=
 I initially encountered the problem a few days ago as the &quot;detent-lik=
e feel&quot; when turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had id=
entified the problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the contr=
ol knob just to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immed=
iately came on. What&#39;s more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, goi=
ng from full blast to low just as it always had.=C2=A0</span></font><br sty=
le=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><font color=3D"=
#3333FF" style=3D"font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-seri=
f;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style=3D"font-fam=
ily:Arial"><br></span></font><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:V=
erdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-col=
or:rgb(250,250,250)"><font color=3D"#3333FF" style=3D"font-family:Verdana,A=
rial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(2=
50,250,250)"><span style=3D"font-family:Arial">I am 100% certain that I had=
 the ignition switch on and the heater power lead connected with an intact =
fuse and I can only say that this is a typical Healey deal, and now that th=
e car has my attention I am sure that should I simply close the heater up t=
he switch will probably act up at some point in the future. I&#39;m going t=
o investigate whether I can source a replacement switch, either Lucas or no=
t. I&#39;ll also take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in black c=
rackle and I am going to close off the top opening that supplies heated air=
 to the two vents in back of the windshield, which seems like a waste of ho=
t air.<br><br>Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives=
 some of you who have experienced similar situations a laugh.</span></font>=
<br></div></div>

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_______________________________________________

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From: Steven Kingsbury <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2018 16:36:13 +0000 (GMT) MailServer1820B52.10000-1820B-0-fc60f9b2d839

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Great news! I have a mechanic I work with and he does many British cars. M=
any times they arrive with a "problem" and as soon as he starts to look at=
 the "problem", it's fixed! Don't know why or how, but it's working! Aroun=
d the shop we call this "FM". Loosely translated it means: F**king Magic!=0A=
=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Glad to hear you're up and running again and if my heate=
r motor ever needs attention, I like your idea of closing off the top vent=
s, thanks for the suggestion.=0ASteven Kingsbury=0ABM1 #598=C2=A0=0A=0AOn =
Oct 26, 2018, at 09:09 AM, Michael Oritt <[email-masked]> wrote:=0A=
=0AAbout an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plat=
e which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verifie=
d that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts =
with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that t=
he problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially en=
countered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when turnin=
g the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the problem as=
 being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just to see ho=
w it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on. What'=
s more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blast to lo=
w just as it always had.=C2=A0=0A=0A=0AI am 100% certain that I had the ig=
nition switch on and the heater power lead connected with an intact fuse a=
nd I can only say that this is a typical Healey deal, and now that the car=
 has my attention I am sure that should I simply close the heater up the s=
witch will probably act up at some point in the future. I'm going to inves=
tigate whether I can source a replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'l=
l also take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in black crackle an=
d I am going to close off the top opening that supplies heated air to the =
two vents in back of the windshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.=0A=
=0AThanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of y=
ou who have experienced similar situations a laugh.=0A____________________=
___________________________=0ASupport Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.=
html=0ASuggested annual donation $12.75=0A=0AArchive: http://www.team.net/=
pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive=0A=[email-masked]=
t=0Ahttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys=0A=0AUnsubscribe/Manage=
: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions@icloud=
.com=0A=0A
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<html><body><div>Great news! I have a mechanic I work with and he does many British ca=
rs. Many times they arrive with a "problem" and as soon as he starts to lo=
ok at the "problem", it's fixed! Don't know why or how, but it's working! =
Around the shop we call this "FM". Loosely translated it means: F**king Ma=
gic!</div><div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Glad to hear you're up and running again =
and if my heater motor ever needs attention, I like your idea of closing o=
ff the top vents, thanks for the suggestion.</div><div>Steven Kingsbury</d=
iv><div>BM1 #598&nbsp;</div><div><br>On Oct 26, 2018, at 09:09 AM, Michael=
 Oritt &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><div><blockquot=
e type=3D"cite"><div class=3D"msg-quote"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"color: #3333ff;" data-mce-style=3D"color: #3333ff;">=
<span color=3D"#3333FF" data-mce-style=3D"font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tah=
oma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafa=
fa; color: #3333ff;" style=3D"font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri=
, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa; color: #=
3333ff;"><span style=3D"font-family: Arial;" data-mce-style=3D"font-family=
: Arial;">About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater fa=
ce-plate which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first =
verified that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two=
 posts with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me=
 that the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initi=
ally encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when=
 turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the pro=
blem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just to=
 see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on=
. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blas=
t to low just as it always had.&nbsp;</span></span><br style=3D"color: #33=
3333; font-family: Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-si=
ze: 13px; background-color: #fafafa;" data-mce-style=3D"color: #333333; fo=
nt-family: Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-size: 13px=
; background-color: #fafafa;"><span color=3D"#3333FF" data-mce-style=3D"fo=
nt-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size:=
 13px; background-color: #fafafa; color: #3333ff;" style=3D"font-family: V=
erdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; backg=
round-color: #fafafa; color: #3333ff;"><span style=3D"font-family: Arial;"=
 data-mce-style=3D"font-family: Arial;"><br></span></span><br style=3D"col=
or: #333333; font-family: Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; =
font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa;" data-mce-style=3D"color: #333=
333; font-family: Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 13px; background-color: #fafafa;"><span color=3D"#3333FF" data-mce-styl=
e=3D"font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; fon=
t-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa; color: #3333ff;" style=3D"font-fa=
mily: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px=
; background-color: #fafafa; color: #3333ff;"><span style=3D"font-family: =
Arial;" data-mce-style=3D"font-family: Arial;">I am 100% certain that I ha=
d the ignition switch on and the heater power lead connected with an intac=
t fuse and I can only say that this is a typical Healey deal, and now that=
 the car has my attention I am sure that should I simply close the heater =
up the switch will probably act up at some point in the future. I'm going =
to investigate whether I can source a replacement switch, either Lucas or =
not. I'll also take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in black cr=
ackle and I am going to close off the top opening that supplies heated air=
 to the two vents in back of the windshield, which seems like a waste of h=
ot air.<br><br>Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this giv=
es some of you who have experienced similar situations a laugh.</span></sp=
an><br></div></div><div class=3D"_stretch"><span class=3D"body-text-conten=
t">_______________________________________________<br>Support <a href=3D"h=
ttp://Team.Net" data-mce-href=3D"http://Team.Net">Team.Net</a> <a href=3D"=
te.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested annual donation =
$12.75<br><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" d=
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[email-masked]

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From: David P <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2018 12:01:40 -0600

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I am one of the few that actually praise Lucas electrics because that 
can generally be taken apart cleaned and returned to service. My guess 
is that you had/have a connection issue with a push in connector or a 
Chinese

fuse that often look OK but separate at the metal caps internally or 
corrosion on the fuse clips. DaveP

On 10/26/2018 10:36 AM, Steven Kingsbury wrote:
> Great news! I have a mechanic I work with and he does many British 
> cars. Many times they arrive with a "problem" and as soon as he starts 
> to look at the "problem", it's fixed! Don't know why or how, but it's 
> working! Around the shop we call this "FM". Loosely translated it 
> means: F**king Magic!
>    Glad to hear you're up and running again and if my heater motor 
> ever needs attention, I like your idea of closing off the top vents, 
> thanks for the suggestion.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BM1 #598
>
> On Oct 26, 2018, at 09:09 AM, Michael Oritt <[email-masked]> 
> wrote:
>
>> About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater 
>> face-plate which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I 
>> first verified that there was power to the switch and then jumped 
>> across the two posts with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on 
>> full blast, telling me that the problem was in the switch, which had 
>> felt a bit odd when I initially encountered the problem a few days 
>> ago as the "detent-like feel" when turning the fan on was missing. 
>> Though I assumed I had identified the problem as being in the switch 
>> I nevertheless turned the control knob just to see how it felt 
>> and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on. What's 
>> more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blast to 
>> low just as it always had.
>>
>>
>> I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater 
>> power lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this 
>> is a typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am 
>> sure that should I simply close the heater up the switch will 
>> probably act up at some point in the future. I'm going to investigate 
>> whether I can source a replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll 
>> also take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in black crackle 
>> and I am going to close off the top opening that supplies heated air 
>> to the two vents in back of the windshield, which seems like a waste 
>> of hot air.
>>
>> Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of 
>> you who have experienced similar situations a laugh.
>> Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>>
>
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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<html>
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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>I am one of the few that actually praise Lucas electrics because
      that can generally be taken apart cleaned and returned to service.
      My guess is that you had/have a connection issue with a push in
      connector or a Chinese <br>
    </p>
    <p>fuse that often look OK but separate at the metal caps internally
      or corrosion on the fuse clips. DaveP<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/26/2018 10:36 AM, Steven
      Kingsbury wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div>Great news! I have a mechanic I work with and he does many
        British cars. Many times they arrive with a "problem" and as
        soon as he starts to look at the "problem", it's fixed! Don't
        know why or how, but it's working! Around the shop we call this
        "FM". Loosely translated it means: F**king Magic!</div>
      <div>   Glad to hear you're up and running again and if my heater
        motor ever needs attention, I like your idea of closing off the
        top vents, thanks for the suggestion.</div>
      <div>Steven Kingsbury</div>
      <div>BM1 #598 </div>
      <div><br>
        On Oct 26, 2018, at 09:09 AM, Michael Oritt
        <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> wrote:<br>
        <br>
      </div>
      <div>
        <blockquote type="cite">
          <div class="msg-quote">
            <div dir="ltr">
              <div class="gmail_default" style="color: #3333ff;"
                data-mce-style="color: #3333ff;"><span color="#3333FF"
                  data-mce-style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma,
                  Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;
                  background-color: #fafafa; color: #3333ff;"
                  style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri,
                  Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; background-color:
                  #fafafa; color: #3333ff;"><span style="font-family:
                    Arial;" data-mce-style="font-family: Arial;">About
                    an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the
                    heater face-plate which gave me access to the back
                    of the rheostat switch. I first verified that there
                    was power to the switch and then jumped across the
                    two posts with a screwdriver. The heater motor came
                    on full blast, telling me that the problem was in
                    the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I
                    initially encountered the problem a few days ago as
                    the "detent-like feel" when turning the fan on was
                    missing. Though I assumed I had identified the
                    problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned
                    the control knob just to see how it felt and--wonder
                    of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on.
                    What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat,
                    going from full blast to low just as it always had. </span></span><br
                  style="color: #333333; font-family:
                  Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;
                  font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa;"
                  data-mce-style="color: #333333; font-family:
                  Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;
                  font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa;">
                <span color="#3333FF" data-mce-style="font-family:
                  Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif;
                  font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa; color:
                  #3333ff;" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma,
                  Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;
                  background-color: #fafafa; color: #3333ff;"><span
                    style="font-family: Arial;"
                    data-mce-style="font-family: Arial;"><br>
                  </span></span><br style="color: #333333; font-family:
                  Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;
                  font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa;"
                  data-mce-style="color: #333333; font-family:
                  Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;
                  font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa;">
                <span color="#3333FF" data-mce-style="font-family:
                  Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif;
                  font-size: 13px; background-color: #fafafa; color:
                  #3333ff;" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma,
                  Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;
                  background-color: #fafafa; color: #3333ff;"><span
                    style="font-family: Arial;"
                    data-mce-style="font-family: Arial;">I am 100%
                    certain that I had the ignition switch on and the
                    heater power lead connected with an intact fuse and
                    I can only say that this is a typical Healey deal,
                    and now that the car has my attention I am sure that
                    should I simply close the heater up the switch will
                    probably act up at some point in the future. I'm
                    going to investigate whether I can source a
                    replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also
                    take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in
                    black crackle and I am going to close off the top
                    opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in
                    back of the windshield, which seems like a waste of
                    hot air.<br>
                    <br>
                    Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope
                    this gives some of you who have experienced similar
                    situations a laugh.</span></span><br>
              </div>
            </div>
            <div class="_stretch"><span class="body-text-content">_______________________________________________<br>
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[email-masked]

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From: Larry Wendland <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2018 19:07:52 +0000 (UTC)

Roland, I know you meant an intermittent "open" because if it was a short, it would have blown the fuse. The word short gets misused to often. As I wrote before it could be the wiper inside the rheostat is a little tired and needed some re-positioning when he opened up the housing. 

Larry
'67 BJ8

-----Original Message-----
From: Roland Wilhelmy <[email-masked]>
To: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>; Austin Healey <[email-masked]>
Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2018 2:24 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem

Michael-
It still could be an intermittent short in the wires to the rheostat‎. I'd suggest wiggling the wires while the fan is running and the wires are as close to their installed position as possible. 

-Roland

Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.

From: Michael Oritt
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2018 8:58 AM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem

About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blast to low just as it always had. 

I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that should I simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some point in the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the top opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the windshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.

Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you who have experienced similar situations a laugh.

[email-masked]

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