Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem

From: Larry Wendland <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2018 18:16:54 +0000 (UTC)

Well keep trying to fix it till it is good and broke. Some times those rheostats just need a little disturbance to get them to work properly. They get old and rub the winding in one place and need to be disturbed to get the wiper to rub on the winding in a different place on the winding. If it quiets again, shoot the money cannon and replace it. It may have more life in it still. 

Larry
'67 BJ8   

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
To: Austin Healey <[email-masked]>
Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2018 11:53 am
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem

About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blast to low just as it always had. 

I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that should I simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some point in the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the top opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the windshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.

Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you who have experienced similar situations a laugh.

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From: Michael Oritt <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2018 14:38:25 -0400

--===============2671403298771318501==

--00000000000001f0bc05792607c9

Larry/Roland

Thanks for the suggestions and I neglected to say in my earlier post that I
plan to pull new hot and ground leads to the heater and establish a new
ground.  Though the fuse to the heater has never blown t is very possible
that one or both of the leads has deteriorated, etc and intermittently goes
open.  Moss wants $150+ for a new switch and I am hopeful that a good dose
of Electric Clean will dissolve any interior corrosion that may exist.

Meanwhile, I went to the local Ace and Lowes in search of black crackle
paint but no luck and will have to get it online.  I did find some 1-1`/2"
crutch tips that will fit nicely over the outlets to the windscreen
demister which I plan to blank off in order to increase airflow.

Best--Michael Oritt  .

On Fri, Oct 26, 2018 at 2:16 PM Larry Wendland <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Well keep trying to fix it till it is good and broke. Some times those
> rheostats just need a little disturbance to get them to work properly. They
> get old and rub the winding in one place and need to be disturbed to get
> the wiper to rub on the winding in a different place on the winding. If it
> quiets again, shoot the money cannon and replace it. It may have more life
> in it still.
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
>
>
> About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate
> which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified
> that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts
> with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that
> the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially
> encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when
> turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the
> problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just
> to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came
> on. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full
> blast to low just as it always had.
>
>
> I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power
> lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a
> typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that
> should I simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some
> point in the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a
> replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity to
> repaint the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the
> top opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the
> windshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.
>
> Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you
> who have experienced similar situations a laugh.
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

--00000000000001f0bc05792607c9
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Larry=
/Roland</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div=
><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Thanks for the sugges=
tions and I neglected to say in my earlier post that I plan to pull new hot=
 and ground leads to the heater and establish a new ground.=C2=A0 Though th=
e fuse to the heater has never blown t is very possible that one or both of=
 the leads has deteriorated, etc and intermittently goes open.=C2=A0 Moss w=
ants $150+ for a new switch and I am hopeful that a good dose of Electric C=
lean will dissolve any interior corrosion that may exist.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div>=
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Meanwhile, I went to=
 the local Ace and Lowes in search of black crackle paint but no luck and w=
ill have to get it online.=C2=A0 I did find some 1-1`/2&quot; crutch tips t=
hat will fit nicely over the outlets to the windscreen demister which I pla=
n to blank off in order to increase airflow.=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail=
_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defa=
ult" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael Oritt=C2=A0 .=C2=A0=C2=A0=
</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri, Oct 26,=
 2018 at 2:16 PM Larry Wendland &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quot=
e" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">=
Well keep trying to fix it till it is good and broke. Some times those rheo=
stats just need a little disturbance to get them to work properly. They get=
 old and rub the winding in one place and need to be disturbed to get the w=
iper to rub on the winding in a different place on the winding. If it quiet=
s again, shoot the money cannon and replace it. It may have more life in it=
 still. <br>
<br>
Larry<br>
&#39;67 BJ8=C2=A0 =C2=A0<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Michael Oritt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
To: Austin Healey &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_=
blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2018 11:53 am<br>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate wh=
ich gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified tha=
t there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts with a=
 screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that the prob=
lem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially encountere=
d the problem a few days ago as the &quot;detent-like feel&quot; when turni=
ng the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the problem as=
 being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just to see how=
 it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on. What&#3=
9;s more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blast to l=
ow just as it always had.=C2=A0<br>
<br>
<br>
I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power le=
ad connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a typical =
Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that should I =
simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some point in=
 the future. I&#39;m going to investigate whether I can source a replacemen=
t switch, either Lucas or not. I&#39;ll also take the opportunity to repain=
t the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the top open=
ing that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the windshield, wh=
ich seems like a waste of hot air.<br>
<br>
Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you w=
ho have experienced similar situations a laugh.<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"h=
ttp://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://a=
utox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
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eam.net</a><br>
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s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: Roland Wilhelmy <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2018 15:59:55 -0700

--===============5287254413556288748==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><body lang=3D"en-US" style=3D"background-color: rgb(255,=
 255, 255); line-height: initial;">                                        =
                                              <div style=3D"width: 100%; fo=
nt-size: initial; font-family: Calibri, 'Slate Pro', sans-serif, sans-serif=
; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); text-align: initial; background-color: rgb(255, =
255, 255);">Eastwood.com sells wrinkle finish black paint. I've used it suc=
cessfully.&nbsp;</div><div style=3D"width: 100%; font-size: initial; font-f=
amily: Calibri, 'Slate Pro', sans-serif, sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125=
); text-align: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">-Roland</div=
>                                                                          =
                                                           <div style=3D"wi=
dth: 100%; font-size: initial; font-family: Calibri, 'Slate Pro', sans-seri=
f, sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); text-align: initial; background-col=
or: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><br style=3D"display:initial"></div>              =
                                                                           =
                                                                           =
                               <div style=3D"font-size: initial; font-famil=
y: Calibri, 'Slate Pro', sans-serif, sans-serif; color: rgb(31, 73, 125); t=
ext-align: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">Sent&nbsp;from&n=
bsp;my&nbsp;BlackBerry&nbsp;10&nbsp;smartphone.</div>                      =
                                                                           =
                                                                           =
      <table width=3D"100%" style=3D"background-color:white;border-spacing:=
0px;"> <tbody><tr><td colspan=3D"2" style=3D"font-size: initial; text-align=
: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">                         =
  <div style=3D"border-style: solid none none; border-top-color: rgb(181, 1=
96, 223); border-top-width: 1pt; padding: 3pt 0in 0in; font-family: Tahoma,=
 'BB Alpha Sans', 'Slate Pro'; font-size: 10pt;">  <div><b>From: </b>Michae=
l Oritt</div><div><b>Sent: </b>Friday, October 26, 2018 3:26 PM</div><div><=
b>To: </b>Larry Wendland</div><div><b>Cc: </b>Austin Healey</div><div><b>Su=
bject: </b>Re: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem</div></div></td=
></tr></tbody></table><div style=3D"border-style: solid none none; border-t=
op-color: rgb(186, 188, 209); border-top-width: 1pt; font-size: initial; te=
xt-align: initial; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"></div><br><div id=
=3D"_originalContent" style=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_defau=
lt" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Larry/Roland</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"col=
or:#3333ff">Thanks for the suggestions and I neglected to say in my earlier=
 post that I plan to pull new hot and ground leads to the heater and establ=
ish a new ground.&nbsp; Though the fuse to the heater has never blown t is =
very possible that one or both of the leads has deteriorated, etc and inter=
mittently goes open.&nbsp; Moss wants $150+ for a new switch and I am hopef=
ul that a good dose of Electric Clean will dissolve any interior corrosion =
that may exist.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb=
(51,51,255)">Meanwhile, I went to the local Ace and Lowes in search of blac=
k crackle paint but no luck and will have to get it online.&nbsp; I did fin=
d some 1-1`/2" crutch tips that will fit nicely over the outlets to the win=
dscreen demister which I plan to blank off in order to increase airflow.&nb=
sp;</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></=
div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Micha=
el Oritt&nbsp; .&nbsp;&nbsp;</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div=
 dir=3D"ltr">On Fri, Oct 26, 2018 at 2:16 PM Larry Wendland &lt;<a href=3D"=
mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><bl=
ockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #=
ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Well keep trying to fix it till it is good and =
broke. Some times those rheostats just need a little disturbance to get the=
m to work properly. They get old and rub the winding in one place and need =
to be disturbed to get the wiper to rub on the winding in a different place=
 on the winding. If it quiets again, shoot the money cannon and replace it.=
 It may have more life in it still. <br>
<br>
Larry<br>
'67 BJ8&nbsp; &nbsp;<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Michael Oritt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
To: Austin Healey &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_=
blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2018 11:53 am<br>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate wh=
ich gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified tha=
t there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts with a=
 screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that the prob=
lem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially encountere=
d the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when turning the fan=
 on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the problem as being in =
the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just to see how it felt a=
nd--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on. What's more it re=
sponded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blast to low just as it =
always had.&nbsp;<br>
<br>
<br>
I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power le=
ad connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a typical =
Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that should I =
simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some point in=
 the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a replacement sw=
itch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity to repaint the fr=
ont plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the top opening that=
 supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the windshield, which seem=
s like a waste of hot air.<br>
<br>
Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you w=
ho have experienced similar situations a laugh.<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"h=
ttp://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://a=
utox.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
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eam.net</a><br>
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s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
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</blockquote></div>
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