Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lift for Healeys

From: Chuck Ott <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2018 17:44:31 +0000 (UTC)

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Bob,
Usually the 2-post lift arms are too high to get under the Healey, especial=
ly the side with the mufflers.=C2=A0 I have a friend who has a 2-post lift,=
 and he has to drive the Healey up on small wooden ramps to get it high eno=
ugh for the lift pad to reach the frame rail on the other side of the muffl=
er.=C2=A0 I have a 4-post lift, and have had no troubles driving the big He=
aley on.=C2=A0 My Sprite needs much more precision, as both wheels ride on =
the inside edge of the ramps. I have a couple of small jacks with which I c=
an jack up the car on each side to remove wheels, or I use a jack in the ja=
cking tray, pushing up on the center of a 2X6 that spans the crossmember, t=
o lift the front or rear of the car.=C2=A0 One other issue I have is that I=
 have a 7' garage door, so tall vehicles, such as my VW Vanagon campers, ar=
e lifted up high enough by driving onto the ramp to scrape the roof on the =
top frame of the garage door.=C2=A0 I can get the one with 14" wheels onto =
the lift by deflating the tires to 10 psi.=C2=A0 The one that I have with 1=
5" wheels does not clear the door even with the tires deflated.=C2=A0 Somet=
hing to consider if you have a high-top van or tall truck.
Chuck Ott1967 BJ81969 AN9

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
To: Healeys <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sat, Oct 13, 2018 12:21 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Lift for Healeys

Folks,

I need to get a lift in order to get under the various vehicles I now=20
have to maintain for myself and my mother (and bury the not-to-code and=20
ridiculously dangerous grease pit my dad installed many years ago).=C2=A0 I=
n=20
watching all the various car shows, it seems the two-post variety is the=20
most popular, but the drive-on four-post might be the most convenient=20
(except when you need to remove the wheels, obviously, or raise one of=20
the tractors).=C2=A0 So, I'm leaning toward the 2-post--any and all=20
suggestions on brand (American-made preferred) and size accepted--but=20
I'm concerned about supporting a Big Healey at four points on their=20
famously flimsy chassis rails.=C2=A0 What are you all using?=C2=A0 Any issu=
es=20
lifting a Healey by the chassis (assuming it's not fully swiss-cheesed)?

Thanks,
Bob

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<font color=3D'black' size=3D'2' face=3D'arial'><br>
Bob,
<div><br>
</div>

<div>Usually the 2-post lift arms are too high to get under the Healey, esp=
ecially the side with the mufflers.&nbsp; I have a friend who has a 2-post =
lift, and he has to drive the Healey up on small wooden ramps to get it hig=
h enough for the lift pad to reach the frame rail on the other side of the =
muffler.&nbsp; I have a 4-post lift, and have had no troubles driving the b=
ig Healey on.&nbsp; My Sprite needs much more precision, as both wheels rid=
e on the inside edge of the ramps. I have a couple of small jacks with whic=
h I can jack up the car on each side to remove wheels, or I use a jack in t=
he jacking tray, pushing up on the center of a 2X6 that spans the crossmemb=
er, to lift the front or rear of the car.&nbsp; One other issue I have is t=
hat I have a 7' garage door, so tall vehicles, such as my VW Vanagon camper=
s, are lifted up high enough by driving onto the ramp to scrape the roof on=
 the top frame of the garage door.&nbsp; I can get the one with 14" wheels =
onto the lift by deflating the tires to 10 psi.&nbsp; The one that I have w=
ith 15" wheels does not clear the door even with the tires deflated.&nbsp; =
Something to consider if you have a high-top van or tall truck.</div>

<div><br>
</div>

<div>Chuck Ott</div>

<div>1967 BJ8</div>

<div>1969 AN9<br>
<br>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----=
Original Message-----<br>
From: Bob Spidell &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: Healeys &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Sat, Oct 13, 2018 12:21 pm<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Lift for Healeys<br>
<br>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Folks,<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">I need to get a lift in order to get under the various veh=
icles I now <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">have to maintain for myself and my mother (and bury the no=
t-to-code and <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">ridiculously dangerous grease pit my dad installed many ye=
ars ago).&nbsp; In <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">watching all the various car shows, it seems the two-post =
variety is the <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">most popular, but the drive-on four-post might be the most=
 convenient <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">(except when you need to remove the wheels, obviously, or =
raise one of <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">the tractors).&nbsp; So, I'm leaning toward the 2-post--an=
y and all <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">suggestions on brand (American-made preferred) and size ac=
cepted--but <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">I'm concerned about supporting a Big Healey at four points=
 on their <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">famously flimsy chassis rails.&nbsp; What are you all usin=
g?&nbsp; Any issues <br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">lifting a Healey by the chassis (assuming it's not fully s=
wiss-cheesed)?<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks,<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</font>
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From: Richard Collins <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2018 23:47:20 +0000

I use a Revolutionary 4 post for work on my BN7 and storage. The 2 post causes the suspension to hang and is not good for storage. Also the 4poster has drip pans which helps protect the cars below. Quick Jacks are also convenient if your garage isn’t high or long enough for a 4 poster. I would only get a two post as my second lift.

Regards,
Richard C

> On Oct 13, 2018, at 11:20 AM, Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> Folks,
> 
> I need to get a lift in order to get under the various vehicles I now have to maintain for myself and my mother (and bury the not-to-code and ridiculously dangerous grease pit my dad installed many years ago).  In watching all the various car shows, it seems the two-post variety is the most popular, but the drive-on four-post might be the most convenient (except when you need to remove the wheels, obviously, or raise one of the tractors).  So, I'm leaning toward the 2-post--any and all suggestions on brand (American-made preferred) and size accepted--but I'm concerned about supporting a Big Healey at four points on their famously flimsy chassis rails.  What are you all using?  Any issues lifting a Healey by the chassis (assuming it's not fully swiss-cheesed)?
> 
> Thanks,
> Bob
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2018 08:01:12 -0700

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Thanks for all the input, guys. Not surprisingly, the opinions were 
pretty much evenly split since both 2- and 4-post have advantages. I'm 
leaning towards a 4-post, since most of the work will be oil changes, 
bleeding brakes, etc. But, I think I'll spring for (at least) one of the 
scissor jacks for when I do need to do suspension work. Of course, I'll 
need an oil drain and some other toys/accessories.

Space isn't an issue; my dad built a large 'barn'--that's what it's 
shaped like, and what we call it--but it's really a large shop (a county 
bureaucrat realized it wasn't for agricultural use, and assessed extra 
fees accordingly). I think the ceilings are about 20', and it has 3 
smaller and one large roll-up door. Here's a shot taken long ago, when 
we had a little party, with most of the local FD in attendance, to start 
the fire engine for the first time.

Bob

>> I need to get a lift in order to get under the various vehicles I now have to maintain for myself and my mother (and bury the not-to-code and ridiculously dangerous grease pit my dad installed man…

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