From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 1 01:30:12 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 1 May 2018 09:30:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump References: <085201d3e090$d6358320$82a08960$@comcast.net> <16317eac438-c96-283d9@webjas-vaa226.srv.aolmail.net> Do not carry an SU pump with points in the boot as a spare.? When you will need it it will not work in most cases as the points have corroded by then. Easy to remedy but it is not a straight swap, you will have to clean the points first. For a spare you can use the electronic version. However it is not really necessary to carry a spare. A bit f 1000 grade wet&dry in the tool kit will do because when the pump is faltering it is nearly always due to dirty, corroded or pitted points which can be addressed to at the road side. For any original SU pump the rule is to clean, polish and check/adjust the points using a bit of flower paper or 1000 grade wet&dry every year. That way it will last a lifetime. Other components rarely give trouble in a regularly driven car. Kees Oudesluijs Op 30-4-2018 om 20:57 schreef warthodson at aol.com: > You will get lots of suggestions. Mine is to replace your SU with an > SU. SU's are very reliable (either correctly restored or a new one), > they fit without having to modify the mounting bracketry and the fuel > line fittings (that can be a big deal). You can carry a spare SU in > the boot if you are worried about a road side failure. The spare will > fit without modification. Or you can plumb in a second SU in parallel > with the original so that if the original fails all you need to do is > switch to the spare. New SU's are available with improved electronics > that will result in low maintenance, trouble free operation for a long > time. If your SU is still operating that means it is nearly 50 years > old. Not bad! > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Rusty Lesher > To: healeys > Sent: Mon, Apr 30, 2018 1:22 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump > > Hello everyone, > I am planning on finishing my 1959 100-6 BN4 this summer.? Bought in > 1969 when I was 16, restored but now real well?I was young and just > learning. > I need some ideas on what electric fuel pump to use to replace my SU pump. > Thanks, > Rusty Lesher > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Tue May 1 09:25:42 2018 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Tue, 1 May 2018 15:25:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Registry? References: <01f101d3e0f2$fabc0590$f03410b0$@comcast.net> Good Day Rusty.??You may wish to check out Derek Job's website regarding the 100-6: ?http://www.healeysix.net/Home.htm? I believe the registry is handled by RudyStreng?????? Lenoir, NC??????100/Six Registrar????CAWS52803 at aol.com?This information is about 8 years old so you may need to check further.? See attached file.--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Tuesday, May 1, 2018 5:42 AM, Rusty Lesher wrote: My Austin Healey Car No. is BN4L-0/76787It is a 1959 (transition year) 100-6It has 100-6 on the Grill and 3000 emblem on the trunk lid.I was the second owner.? Purchased in 1969 and I don?t believe anything was altered.Is there a place for registry?Thanks,Rusty_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Registry 100-6.doc Type: application/msword Size: 246784 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue May 1 14:00:59 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Tue, 1 May 2018 16:00:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Registry? References: <01f101d3e0f2$fabc0590$f03410b0$@comcast.net> <1574285335.2751971.1525188343061@mail.yahoo.com> The current keeper of the 100-Six registry is Gary Feldman (ghfeldman at roadrunner.com) Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of J. Scott Morris Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2018 11:26 AM To: Rusty Lesher; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Registry? Good Day Rusty. You may wish to check out Derek Job's website regarding the 100-6: Image removed by sender. http://www.healeysix.net/Home.htm I believe the registry is handled by Rudy Streng Lenoir, NC 100/Six Registrar CAWS52803 at aol.com This information is about 8 years old so you may need to check further.See attached file. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada- Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Tuesday, May 1, 2018 5:42 AM, Rusty Lesher wrote: My Austin Healey Car No. is BN4L-0/76787 It is a 1959 (transition year) 100-6 It has 100-6 on the Grill and 3000 emblem on the trunk lid. I was the second owner. Purchased in 1969 and I don?t believe anything was altered. Is there a place for registry? Thanks, Rusty _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD019.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue May 1 22:05:35 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 2 May 2018 12:05:35 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 wiper wheelbox seal References: I am pretty sure David Nock sells them.... David? On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 3:23 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > By chance does anyone out there know if the unique seal for the wiper > wheelbox shaft for a BN1 (different from all the later cars) can be > purchased anywhere? > > Michael S > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 2 01:40:37 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 2 May 2018 15:40:37 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 wiper wheelbox seal References: Also, Austin Counties spares has 2H 8831 listed, is it the same? http://austincounties.org.uk/Partslistscomplete2017.pdf If so I can rejoin and order from them. will take some time On Wed, May 2, 2018 at 12:05 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > I am pretty sure David Nock sells them.... > > David? > > On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 3:23 AM, Michael Salter > wrote: > >> By chance does anyone out there know if the unique seal for the wiper >> wheelbox shaft for a BN1 (different from all the later cars) can be >> purchased anywhere? >> >> Michael S >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed May 2 13:41:37 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Wed, 2 May 2018 15:41:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Marion Brantley's passing If your not on Facebook, news of the passing of my long time friend and Healey owner, Marion Brantley, was on there today. My wife just showed me the club Facebook page With the limited info. I do not know any details but suspect more will be made available at a later date. Rest in peace my friend. You will be missed. Aloha Perry and Kimberley Small Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Wed May 2 15:06:54 2018 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 02 May 2018 21:06:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Marion Brantley Jim Werner has posted on Facebook that lister Marion Brantley passed away today. Rick Neville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Wed May 2 15:19:17 2018 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Wed, 2 May 2018 17:19:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] No start condition References: My no start condition has returned as many on the list indicated other sources of the problem. I have discovered high resistance and no voltage on the battery cable connector to starter solenoid. So, I am replacing the original cable with a new one. Can anyone tell me what gauge and length the cable is from the battery to the starter solenoid? I will use the solder on type of connectors at both ends to try and eliminate corrosion inside the connectors. Thanks for the help, Fred 66 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed May 2 21:55:28 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 2 May 2018 20:55:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] No start condition References: re: "Can anyone tell me what gauge and length the cable is from the battery to the starter solenoid?" Why not measure the old one?? It's a long run, I'd use #0 pr #1 gauge wire (the thicker the better). re: "I will use the solder on type of connectors at both ends to try and eliminate corrosion inside the connectors." We had to use an oxy-acetelene torch to get the solder to flow. Propane or (fake) 'MAPP' gas won't do it. Bob On 5/2/2018 2:19 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > My no start condition has returned as many on the list indicated other > sources of the problem. > > I have discovered high resistance and no voltage on the battery cable > connector to starter solenoid.? So, I am replacing the original cable > with a new one. > > Can anyone tell me what gauge and length the cable is from the battery > to the starter solenoid? > > I will use the solder on type of connectors at both ends to try and > eliminate corrosion inside the connectors. > > Thanks for the help, > > Fred > 66 BJ8 > From dcorning at ford.com Thu May 3 00:08:16 2018 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Thu, 3 May 2018 06:08:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured I'm trying to diagnose why my BT7s oil pressure too high after rebuilding the engine. With the spark plugs removed, engine cranking oil pressure builds to 90 PSI. I did install a high capacity oil pump from Healey Surgeons but I don't think that is the root of the issue. I've never started the engine after the rebuild and won't until I get this resolved. Looking through the archives for similar problems led to the possibility the oil pressure relief return port was covered during the rebuild, blocking the return of oil to the sump. To test this, I pulled the oil pressure relief valve and spring, put the plug back in and cranked the engine. The cranking oil pressure dropped significantly, low enough that it didn't register on the gauge. If I'm correct, that eliminates the return port as the problem because if they WERE plugged, the oil return still would have been blocked and the pressure would have still been high. I suspect it's now more likely the pressure relief valve is sticking in the bore or simply too much spring pressure keeping the valve closed. I trial fitted the pressure relief valve back in the engine bore and didn't feel any binding although the valve did have some scoring. Reviewing each component, I noticed the spring fits nicely inside the back side of the pressure relief valve but does not fit INTO the cavity inside the plug. (see photo) Is it possible I have the wrong plug? Maybe switched the oil pan plug with the pressure relief plug forcing the spring too far into the pressure relief bore? Any ideas that might help me pinpoint the concern? Best, Dan Corning -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0764.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1242951 bytes Desc: IMG_0764.JPG URL: From chucknsueo at aol.com Thu May 3 04:39:37 2018 From: chucknsueo at aol.com (Chuck Ott) Date: Thu, 3 May 2018 06:39:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] No start condition I bought 11 feet of #2 AWG welding wire for my replacement BJ8 battery cable.? It is slightly larger diameter than the original, but still fits through the original clips and grommets.? It worked out very well.? I did have a small amount of excess, but I don't recall exactly how much. Chuck Ott BJ8, AN9 -----Original Message----- From: Fred Wescoe To: healeys Sent: Wed, May 2, 2018 10:49 pm Subject: [Healeys] No start condition My no start condition has returned as many on the list indicated other sources of the problem. I have discovered high resistance and no voltage on the battery cable connector to starter solenoid.? So, I am replacing the original cable with a new one.?? Can anyone tell me what gauge and length the cable is from the battery to the starter solenoid?? I will use the solder on type of connectors at both ends to try and eliminate corrosion inside the connectors. Thanks for the help, Fred 66 BJ8 _______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu May 3 04:42:21 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 3 May 2018 18:42:21 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Marion Brantley References: Yes, sad news. On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 5:06 AM, HealeyRick wrote: > Jim Werner has posted on Facebook that lister Marion Brantley passed away > today. > > Rick Neville > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Thu May 3 05:24:07 2018 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Thu, 03 May 2018 07:24:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] No start condition References: While you can certainly make your own, as I recall British Car Specialists sells a proper length cable with connectors already soldered onto the cable. Lin Sent from my iPad > On May 2, 2018, at 5:19 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > > My no start condition has returned as many on the list indicated other sources of the problem. > > I have discovered high resistance and no voltage on the battery cable connector to starter solenoid. So, I am replacing the original cable with a new one. > > Can anyone tell me what gauge and length the cable is from the battery to the starter solenoid? > > I will use the solder on type of connectors at both ends to try and eliminate corrosion inside the connectors. > > Thanks for the help, > > Fred > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com > From gbrierton at hotmail.com Thu May 3 06:11:02 2018 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (Gary R. Brierton) Date: Thu, 3 May 2018 12:11:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Registry? References: <01f101d3e0f2$fabc0590$f03410b0$@comcast.net>, <1574285335.2751971.1525188343061@mail.yahoo.com> 100 6 registry is now maintained by Gary Feldman, ghfeldman at roadrunner.com GRB ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of J. Scott Morris Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2018 11:25 AM To: Rusty Lesher; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Registry? Good Day Rusty. You may wish to check out Derek Job's website regarding the 100-6: [X] http://www.healeysix.net/Home.htm Home [www.healeysix.net] www.healeysix.net Exiting the chicane at Goodwood in the Healeysport Championship My Cars BN4-O-61532`Competition` BN4-O-30524 BN4L-O-56053 I believe the registry is handled by Rudy Streng Lenoir, NC 100/Six Registrar CAWS52803 at aol.com This information is about 8 years old so you may need to check further. See attached file. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Tuesday, May 1, 2018 5:42 AM, Rusty Lesher wrote: My Austin Healey Car No. is BN4L-0/76787 It is a 1959 (transition year) 100-6 It has 100-6 on the Grill and 3000 emblem on the trunk lid. I was the second owner. Purchased in 1969 and I don?t believe anything was altered. Is there a place for registry? Thanks, Rusty _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dcorning at ford.com Thu May 3 09:32:22 2018 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Thu, 3 May 2018 15:32:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured - Resolved Thanks to all that responded! As it turned out the pressure relief valve "plug" was evidently the wrong part for the application. The spring would not sit inside the shoulder of the plug causing the spring to sit too far into the engine bore, forcing itself into the pressure relief valve and sealing it off. I hated doing so but I drilled out the center of the plug, allowing the spring to sit inside. (Before and after photos) I cleaned all the shavings up, reinstalled and test cranked the engine, the pressure was reduced by almost half, down to 50 PSI. Thanks again! Best, Dan Corning From: Richard J. Hockert Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 9:21 AM To: Corning, Dan (D.C.) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured You have correctly diagnosed the problem. Solution is to end up with correct spring pressure. Since the spring fits into the valve, it is likely the correct spring. Either change plug or bore out the center of the plug. Spring fits into the plug on my engine. Best regards, Jim _____________________________________________ From: Corning, Dan (D.C.) Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 1:08 AM To: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Feeling Pressured I'm trying to diagnose why my BT7s oil pressure too high after rebuilding the engine. With the spark plugs removed, engine cranking oil pressure builds to 90 PSI. I did install a high capacity oil pump from Healey Surgeons but I don't think that is the root of the issue. I've never started the engine after the rebuild and won't until I get this resolved. Looking through the archives for similar problems led to the possibility the oil pressure relief return port was covered during the rebuild, blocking the return of oil to the sump. To test this, I pulled the oil pressure relief valve and spring, put the plug back in and cranked the engine. The cranking oil pressure dropped significantly, low enough that it didn't register on the gauge. If I'm correct, that eliminates the return port as the problem because if they WERE plugged, the oil return still would have been blocked and the pressure would have still been high. I suspect it's now more likely the pressure relief valve is sticking in the bore or simply too much spring pressure keeping the valve closed. I trial fitted the pressure relief valve back in the engine bore and didn't feel any binding although the valve did have some scoring. Reviewing each component, I noticed the spring fits nicely inside the back side of the pressure relief valve but does not fit INTO the cavity inside the plug. (see photo) Is it possible I have the wrong plug? Maybe switched the oil pan plug with the pressure relief plug forcing the spring too far into the pressure relief bore? Any ideas that might help me pinpoint the concern? Best, Dan Corning -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0764.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 155447 bytes Desc: IMG_0764.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0770.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 231168 bytes Desc: IMG_0770.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0771.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 214373 bytes Desc: IMG_0771.JPG URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu May 3 09:35:01 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 3 May 2018 08:35:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] No start condition References: <5D855A27-DA33-4BC2-9FCE-C498EDBCE7D8@mac.com> Not likely to be the actual cable it would have been a connection on either end. I would start with a battery switch. Using a test light connect to the battery feed either positive or negeative depending on which polarity you have. Then work your way away from the battery one connection at a time until you loose power. Post to post Post to Terminal Post to Ground Cable Post to battery cut off Post to other side of cut off Post to chassis Eventually you will not have a connection My bet is the battery switch David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Linwood Rose Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 4:24 AM To: Fred Wescoe Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] No start condition While you can certainly make your own, as I recall British Car Specialists sells a proper length cable with connectors already soldered onto the cable. Lin Sent from my iPad > On May 2, 2018, at 5:19 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > > My no start condition has returned as many on the list indicated other > sources of the problem. > > I have discovered high resistance and no voltage on the battery cable > connector to starter solenoid. So, I am replacing the original cable with > a new one. > > Can anyone tell me what gauge and length the cable is from the battery to > the starter solenoid? > > I will use the solder on type of connectors at both ends to try and > eliminate corrosion inside the connectors. > > Thanks for the help, > > Fred > 66 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu May 3 09:42:06 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 3 May 2018 08:42:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured References: There are two return drains for the relief valve. One is the large pipe that will not plug up. The other is a small one that if you put silicone on the pan gasket will plug up. It is where the pan gasket has a small cut out to go around. I also have seen some of the aftermarket alloy oil pans that did not have a large enough cut out to clear the hole. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Corning, Dan (D.C.) Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2018 11:08 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured I?m trying to diagnose why my BT7s oil pressure too high after rebuilding the engine. With the spark plugs removed, engine cranking oil pressure builds to 90 PSI. I did install a high capacity oil pump from Healey Surgeons but I don?t think that is the root of the issue. I?ve never started the engine after the rebuild and won?t until I get this resolved. Looking through the archives for similar problems led to the possibility the oil pressure relief return port was covered during the rebuild, blocking the return of oil to the sump. To test this, I pulled the oil pressure relief valve and spring, put the plug back in and cranked the engine. The cranking oil pressure dropped significantly, low enough that it didn?t register on the gauge. If I?m correct, that eliminates the return port as the problem because if they WERE plugged, the oil return still would have been blocked and the pressure would have still been high. I suspect it?s now more likely the pressure relief valve is sticking in the bore or simply too much spring pressure keeping the valve closed. I trial fitted the pressure relief valve back in the engine bore and didn?t feel any binding although the valve did have some scoring. Reviewing each component, I noticed the spring fits nicely inside the back side of the pressure relief valve but does not fit INTO the cavity inside the plug. (see photo) Is it possible I have the wrong plug? Maybe switched the oil pan plug with the pressure relief plug forcing the spring too far into the pressure relief bore? Any ideas that might help me pinpoint the concern? Best, Dan Corning -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100_0174[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 100966 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0764.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1242951 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu May 3 09:48:43 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 3 May 2018 08:48:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured References: David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Corning, Dan (D.C.) Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2018 11:08 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured I?m trying to diagnose why my BT7s oil pressure too high after rebuilding the engine. With the spark plugs removed, engine cranking oil pressure builds to 90 PSI. I did install a high capacity oil pump from Healey Surgeons but I don?t think that is the root of the issue. I?ve never started the engine after the rebuild and won?t until I get this resolved. Looking through the archives for similar problems led to the possibility the oil pressure relief return port was covered during the rebuild, blocking the return of oil to the sump. To test this, I pulled the oil pressure relief valve and spring, put the plug back in and cranked the engine. The cranking oil pressure dropped significantly, low enough that it didn?t register on the gauge. If I?m correct, that eliminates the return port as the problem because if they WERE plugged, the oil return still would have been blocked and the pressure would have still been high. I suspect it?s now more likely the pressure relief valve is sticking in the bore or simply too much spring pressure keeping the valve closed. I trial fitted the pressure relief valve back in the engine bore and didn?t feel any binding although the valve did have some scoring. Reviewing each component, I noticed the spring fits nicely inside the back side of the pressure relief valve but does not fit INTO the cavity inside the plug. (see photo) Is it possible I have the wrong plug? Maybe switched the oil pan plug with the pressure relief plug forcing the spring too far into the pressure relief bore? Any ideas that might help me pinpoint the concern? Best, Dan Corning -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100_0174_edited-1[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 101679 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0764.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1242951 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu May 3 11:27:12 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Thu, 3 May 2018 19:27:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured References: Is that swarf I see on the spring? If so there is a big problem. Basically a full rebuild after carefully cleaning out all oil ways and passages. The valve is probably binding. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-5-2018 om 08:08 schreef Corning, Dan (D.C.): > I?m trying to diagnose why my BT7s oil pressure too high after > rebuilding the engine.? With the spark plugs removed, engine cranking > oil pressure builds to 90 PSI.? I did install a high capacity oil pump > from Healey Surgeons but I don?t think that is the root of the issue.? > I?ve never started the engine after the rebuild and won?t until I get > this resolved. > Looking through the archives for similar problems led to the > possibility the oil pressure relief return port was covered during the > rebuild, blocking the return of oil to the sump.? To test this, I > pulled the oil pressure relief valve and spring, put the plug back in > and cranked the engine.? The cranking oil pressure dropped > significantly, low enough that it didn?t register on the gauge.? If > I?m correct, that eliminates the return port as the problem because if > they WERE plugged, the oil return still would have been blocked and > the pressure would have still been high.? I suspect it?s now more > likely the pressure relief valve is sticking in the bore or simply too > much spring pressure keeping the valve closed. > I trial fitted the pressure relief valve back in the engine bore and > didn?t feel any binding although the valve did have some scoring.? > Reviewing each component, I noticed the spring fits nicely inside the > back side of the pressure relief valve but does not fit INTO the > cavity inside the plug.? (see photo) Is it possible I have the wrong > plug?? Maybe switched the oil pan plug with the pressure relief plug > forcing the spring too far into the pressure relief bore? > Any ideas that might help me pinpoint the concern? > Best, > > Dan Corning > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu May 3 15:17:37 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 3 May 2018 21:17:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured References: Is there a plug already in the hole that did not come out?? You could be pushing a plug in top of a plug.? It's happened before.? Don't ask me how I know.Mike MacLean On Thursday, May 3, 2018 4:21 AM, "Corning, Dan (D.C.)" wrote: I?m trying to diagnose why my BT7s oil pressure too high after rebuilding the engine.? With the spark plugs removed, engine cranking oil pressure builds to 90 PSI.? I did install a high capacity oil pump from Healey Surgeons but I don?t think that is theroot of the issue.? I?ve never started the engine after the rebuild and won?t until I get this resolved.?Looking through the archives for similar problems led to the possibility the oil pressure relief return port was covered during the rebuild, blocking the return of oil to the sump.? To test this, I pulled the oil pressure relief valve and spring, put theplug back in and cranked the engine.? The cranking oil pressure dropped significantly, low enough that it didn?t register on the gauge.? If I?m correct, that eliminates the return port as the problem because if they WERE plugged, the oil return still wouldhave been blocked and the pressure would have still been high.? I suspect it?s now more likely the pressure relief valve is sticking in the bore or simply too much spring pressure keeping the valve closed.? ?I trial fitted the pressure relief valve back in the engine bore and didn?t feel any binding although the valve did have some scoring.? Reviewing each component, I noticed the spring fits nicely inside the back side of the pressure relief valve but doesnot fit INTO the cavity inside the plug.? (see photo) Is it possible I have the wrong plug?? Maybe switched the oil pan plug with the pressure relief plug forcing the spring too far into the pressure relief bore??Any ideas that might help me pinpoint the concern?? Best, Dan Corning?_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0764.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1242951 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu May 3 17:39:41 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 3 May 2018 16:39:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured - Resolved References: <62567cea615140e4a47d917c9560bca5@ford.com> That is the oil pan drain plug. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Corning, Dan (D.C.) Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 8:32 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured - Resolved Thanks to all that responded! As it turned out the pressure relief valve ?plug? was evidently the wrong part for the application. The spring would not sit inside the shoulder of the plug causing the spring to sit too far into the engine bore, forcing itself into the pressure relief valve and sealing it off. I hated doing so but I drilled out the center of the plug, allowing the spring to sit inside. (Before and after photos) I cleaned all the shavings up, reinstalled and test cranked the engine, the pressure was reduced by almost half, down to 50 PSI. Thanks again! Best, Dan Corning From: Richard J. Hockert Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 9:21 AM To: Corning, Dan (D.C.) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Feeling Pressured You have correctly diagnosed the problem. Solution is to end up with correct spring pressure. Since the spring fits into the valve, it is likely the correct spring. Either change plug or bore out the center of the plug. Spring fits into the plug on my engine. Best regards, Jim _____________________________________________ From: Corning, Dan (D.C.) Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2018 1:08 AM To: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Feeling Pressured I?m trying to diagnose why my BT7s oil pressure too high after rebuilding the engine. With the spark plugs removed, engine cranking oil pressure builds to 90 PSI. I did install a high capacity oil pump from Healey Surgeons but I don?t think that is the root of the issue. I?ve never started the engine after the rebuild and won?t until I get this resolved. Looking through the archives for similar problems led to the possibility the oil pressure relief return port was covered during the rebuild, blocking the return of oil to the sump. To test this, I pulled the oil pressure relief valve and spring, put the plug back in and cranked the engine. The cranking oil pressure dropped significantly, low enough that it didn?t register on the gauge. If I?m correct, that eliminates the return port as the problem because if they WERE plugged, the oil return still would have been blocked and the pressure would have still been high. I suspect it?s now more likely the pressure relief valve is sticking in the bore or simply too much spring pressure keeping the valve closed. I trial fitted the pressure relief valve back in the engine bore and didn?t feel any binding although the valve did have some scoring. Reviewing each component, I noticed the spring fits nicely inside the back side of the pressure relief valve but does not fit INTO the cavity inside the plug. (see photo) Is it possible I have the wrong plug? Maybe switched the oil pan plug with the pressure relief plug forcing the spring too far into the pressure relief bore? Any ideas that might help me pinpoint the concern? Best, Dan Corning -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0764.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 155447 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0770.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 231168 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0771.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 214373 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rawdawgs at aol.com Fri May 4 09:23:14 2018 From: rawdawgs at aol.com (Rawdawgs) Date: Fri, 4 May 2018 11:23:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Timing chain question LIke Rusty I bought a BN4L back in the 70s and doing a restoration as work/kids/money allow. Now that I am retired I have been making some progress. I had some stuck valves and pulled the head and one thing lead to another and I basically did an engine rebuild. Got it back, put the head on it and got it started. It would run at about 2000 rpm pretty well, but if I let the RPMs drop it would die. Ran it for about 20 minutes or so. We ended up shutting down for the winter and are going to get started on in again. We assumed we got some trash in the carbs and that was causing my issue, but my mechanic brought up a question about the possibility that the timing chain being off a link or two. My machine shop guy did all that and when I got it, the cover was on it and I did not open it up and check it. Now that he mentioned it, I noticed that when he got the timing set the distributor was noticeably more clockwise than I remember,(and see in other's pcitures. I know the Longbridge engine is not an interference engine, but is there anyway the timing chain can be off a link or two and the engine still run? Thanks, Scott. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sun May 6 03:09:22 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sun, 6 May 2018 10:09:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Door handles Hi, This is somewhat by way of being a test as I've had nothing from the list for days. Now, I have a MkII BT7. Some clown backed into it the other day and I've had to have the door reskinned and sprayed etcetc. And, I thought "why not have the door handles replaced at the same time?" Why not indeed? Probably because the new one don't fit! These one didn't anyway..hard to explain, but the interior angle under where the handle hinges was too acute and the handles stuck out too far. (It was indeed the handles, not the door skins. We tried them on the old skin and other door. No good). So,.. 1. can my old ones be rechromed? I seem to remember that they're made of some crummy metal. But they were chromed originally, so why not again. 2. &/or.does anyone know if all the new handles are useless or are there some good ones out there? I don't think it would be fair to say where they came from as these guys have always been 100% so far. I'll tell individuals, if requested. Any ideas, comments? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun May 6 09:43:58 2018 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 6 May 2018 08:43:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump References: <085201d3e090$d6358320$82a08960$@comcast.net> <16317eac438-c96-283d9@webjas-vaa226.srv.aolmail.net> DTbAfNzMs2OMyDTbCfAWQg Hello, The Ecco pump is another option. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2018 12:30 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump Do not carry an SU pump with points in the boot as a spare. When you will need it it will not work in most cases as the points have corroded by then. Easy to remedy but it is not a straight swap, you will have to clean the points first. For a spare you can use the electronic version. However it is not really necessary to carry a spare. A bit f 1000 grade wet&dry in the tool kit will do because when the pump is faltering it is nearly always due to dirty, corroded or pitted points which can be addressed to at the road side. For any original SU pump the rule is to clean, polish and check/adjust the points using a bit of flower paper or 1000 grade wet&dry every year. That way it will last a lifetime. Other components rarely give trouble in a regularly driven car. Kees Oudesluijs Op 30-4-2018 om 20:57 schreef warthodson at aol.com: You will get lots of suggestions. Mine is to replace your SU with an SU. SU's are very reliable (either correctly restored or a new one), they fit without having to modify the mounting bracketry and the fuel line fittings (that can be a big deal). You can carry a spare SU in the boot if you are worried about a road side failure. The spare will fit without modification. Or you can plumb in a second SU in parallel with the original so that if the original fails all you need to do is switch to the spare. New SU's are available with improved electronics that will result in low maintenance, trouble free operation for a long time. If your SU is still operating that means it is nearly 50 years old. Not bad! Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- Sent: Mon, Apr 30, 2018 1:22 pm Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump Hello everyone, I am planning on finishing my 1959 100-6 BN4 this summer. Bought in 1969 when I was 16, restored but now real well.I was young and just learning. I need some ideas on what electric fuel pump to use to replace my SU pump. Thanks, Rusty Lesher _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Ecco 15LM12 Fuel Pump.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 685364 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun May 6 11:17:14 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 06 May 2018 17:17:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump References: <085201d3e090$d6358320$82a08960$@comcast.net> I'm using one of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3146?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz7rXBRD9ARIsABfBl81_awzitUtdGPHeIKG7MXOx2Zrhx4IrkPqoW6tDAdp8_sNDnZUHi4saAjANEALw_wcB Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 11:35 AM Rusty Lesher wrote: > Hello everyone, > > I am planning on finishing my 1959 100-6 BN4 this summer. Bought in 1969 > when I was 16, restored but now real well?I was young and just learning. > > I need some ideas on what electric fuel pump to use to replace my SU pump. > > Thanks, > > Rusty Lesher > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sun May 6 14:08:19 2018 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Sun, 6 May 2018 16:08:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump References: <085201d3e090$d6358320$82a08960$@comcast.net> I use the same pump for Diesel as a booster for the mechanical pump on my boat. Works great and you can get it from Amazon for less. So I will install one near the SU carbs to reduce vapor lock problems. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Sunday, May 6, 2018 1:17 PM To: Rusty Lesher Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump I'm using one of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3146?seid=srese1 &cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz7rXBRD9ARIsABfBl81_awzitUtdGPHeIKG7MXOx2Zrhx4IrkPqoW6tDAdp8_sNDnZUHi4saAjANEALw_wcB Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone Hello everyone, I am planning on finishing my 1959 100-6 BN4 this summer. Bought in 1969 when I was 16, restored but now real well?I was young and just learning. I need some ideas on what electric fuel pump to use to replace my SU pump. Thanks, Rusty Lesher _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sun May 6 14:23:45 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sun, 6 May 2018 21:23:45 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump References: <085201d3e090$d6358320$82a08960$@comcast.net> I use one of these. While I like the idea of using an SU, two pumps, individually switched, gives one a bit more confidence. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: 06 May 2018 18:17 To: Rusty Lesher Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump I'm using one of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3146?seid=srese1 &cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz7rXBRD9ARIsABfBl81_awzitUtdGPHeIKG7MXOx2Zrhx4IrkPqoW6tDAdp8_sNDnZUHi4saAjANEALw_wcB Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone Hello everyone, I am planning on finishing my 1959 100-6 BN4 this summer. Bought in 1969 when I was 16, restored but now real well?I was young and just learning. I need some ideas on what electric fuel pump to use to replace my SU pump. Thanks, Rusty Lesher _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 08.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3856011 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 6 15:27:55 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 6 May 2018 23:27:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump References: <085201d3e090$d6358320$82a08960$@comcast.net> Problem with these is that the pressure is to high. It should be 3,8psi max. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-5-2018 om 19:17 schreef i erbs: > I'm using one of these > https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3146?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz7rXBRD9ARIsABfBl81_awzitUtdGPHeIKG7MXOx2Zrhx4IrkPqoW6tDAdp8_sNDnZUHi4saAjANEALw_wcB > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 11:35 AM Rusty Lesher > Hello everyone, > > I am planning on finishing my 1959 100-6 BN4 this summer.? Bought > in 1969 when I was 16, restored but now real well?I was young and > just learning. > > I need some ideas on what electric fuel pump to use to replace my > SU pump. > > Thanks, > > Rusty Lesher > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun May 6 18:05:05 2018 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 6 May 2018 17:05:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Timing chain question References: <1632bc003ef-c88-5085d@webjas-vaa160.srv.aolmail.net> Yes, the engine will run if you are not completely off the mark. If I recall correctly, even one-half link off will change the cam timing by almost 6 degrees and that is a huge amount but the engine should run. One full link off.... 12 degrees...... not sure how it would run. I would Google "cam timing", read about advance and retard, and see what other people say. On Fri, May 4, 2018 at 8:23 AM, Rawdawgs wrote: > LIke Rusty I bought a BN4L back in the 70s and doing a restoration as > work/kids/money allow. Now that I am retired I have been making some > progress. I had some stuck valves and pulled the head and one thing lead to > another and I basically did an engine rebuild. Got it back, put the head on > it and got it started. It would run at about 2000 rpm pretty well, but if I > let the RPMs drop it would die. Ran it for about 20 minutes or so. We ended > up shutting down for the winter and are going to get started on in again. > We assumed we got some trash in the carbs and that was causing my issue, > but my mechanic brought up a question about the possibility that the timing > chain being off a link or two. My machine shop guy did all that and when I > got it, the cover was on it and I did not open it up and check it. Now > that he mentioned it, I noticed that when he got the timing set the > distributor was noticeably more clockwise than I remember,(and see in > other's pcitures. I know the Longbridge engine is not an interference > engine, but is there anyway the timing chain can be off a link or two and > the engine still run? Thanks, Scott. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun May 6 19:56:54 2018 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Mon, 7 May 2018 01:56:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump References: <085201d3e090$d6358320$82a08960$@comcast.net> OK...I'll jump in.?Hardi is a German made pump which will bolt right into place.To quote their literature "HARDI-Pumps have a special control system that enables the adaption of the pumping capacity to the consumption of the engine. This means, it will pump fast at high consumption, slow or not at all at low consumption?"...and it ticks like the original! Stephen, BJ8 From: Kees Oudesluijs To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, May 6, 2018 8:24 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump Problem with these is that the pressure is to high. It should be 3,8psi max. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-5-2018 om 19:17 schreef i erbs: I'm using one of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3146?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz7rXBRD9ARIsABfBl81_awzitUtdGPHeIKG7MXOx2Zrhx4IrkPqoW6tDAdp8_sNDnZUHi4saAjANEALw_wcB Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 11:35 AM Rusty Lesher wrote: Hello everyone, I am planning on finishing my 1959 100-6 BN4 this summer.? Bought in 1969 when I was 16, restored but now real well?I was young and just learning. I need some ideas on what electric fuel pump to use to replace my SU pump. Thanks, Rusty Lesher _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeysHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eschulz at frontiernet.net Sun May 6 20:57:11 2018 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Sun, 06 May 2018 22:57:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Door handles References: <000001d3e519$ed537890$c7fa69b0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Yes, the door handle can be chrome plated, but you need to disassemble it by punching out the roll pin. Elton On 5/6/2018 5:09 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > Hi, > > This is somewhat by way of being a test as I've had nothing from the > list for days. > > Now, I have a MkII BT7. > > Some clown backed into it the other day and I've had to have the door > reskinned and sprayed etcetc. And, I thought "why not have the door > handles replaced at the same time?" > > Why not indeed? Probably because the new one don't fit! These one > didn't anyway....hard to explain, but the interior angle under where > the handle hinges was too acute and the handles stuck out too far. > > (It was indeed the handles, not the door skins. We tried them on the > old skin and other door. No good). > > So,...... > > 1. can my old ones be rechromed? I seem to remember that they're made > of some crummy metal. But they were chromed originally, so why not > again. > 2. &/or...does anyone know if all the new handles are useless or are > there some good ones out there? I don't think it would be fair to > say where they came from as these guys have always been 100% so > far. I'll tell individuals, if requested. > > Any ideas, comments? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com Sun May 6 21:24:25 2018 From: JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com (Jim Frakes) Date: Sun, 6 May 2018 23:24:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Door handles References: <000001d3e519$ed537890$c7fa69b0$@alexarevel.plus.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 7 00:59:20 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 7 May 2018 08:59:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel pump References: <085201d3e090$d6358320$82a08960$@comcast.net> <1822279017.518349.1525658214722@mail.yahoo.com> The Hardi pump is a copy of the SU-pump (or perhaps the other way round), it works the same. Later types are electronic like e.g. the SU AZX1308EN/P made by Burlen. There is also a cheap alternative made in New Zealand I believe. It is a black plastic affair which is sold under several different brands, it also looks more or less similar and works the same as the electronic SU/Hardi pumps and seems to be very reliable. I have an old used one in the boot as a spare. Kees Oudesluijs Op 7-5-2018 om 03:56 schreef Stephen Hutchings: > OK...I'll jump in. > Hardi is a German made pump which will bolt right into place. > To quote their literature "HARDI-Pumps have a special control system > that enables the adaption of the pumping capacity to the consumption > of the engine. This means, it will pump fast at high consumption, slow > or not at all at low consumption?" > ...and it ticks like the original! > > Stephen, BJ8 > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Kees Oudesluijs > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Sunday, May 6, 2018 8:24 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Fuel pump > > Problem with these is that the pressure is to high. It should be > 3,8psi max. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 6-5-2018 om 19:17 schreef i erbs: >> I'm using one of these >> https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3146?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz7rXBRD9ARIsABfBl81_awzitUtdGPHeIKG7MXOx2Zrhx4IrkPqoW6tDAdp8_sNDnZUHi4saAjANEALw_wcB >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland, OR >> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone >> >> On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 11:35 AM Rusty Lesher > >> Hello everyone, >> I am planning on finishing my 1959 100-6 BN4 this summer.? Bought >> in 1969 when I was 16, restored but now real well?I was young and >> just learning. >> I need some ideas on what electric fuel pump to use to replace my >> SU pump. >> Thanks, >> Rusty Lesher >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net >> http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed May 9 00:00:55 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 8 May 2018 23:00:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Door handles References: <000001d3e519$ed537890$c7fa69b0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Make sure the body is not cracked by inspecting the corners of the handle opening very closely on each side. You might find a small diagonal crack from the inside corner to the outside body edge. John Spaur '62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Sunday, May 6, 2018 2:09 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Door handles Hi, This is somewhat by way of being a test as I've had nothing from the list for days. Now, I have a MkII BT7. Some clown backed into it the other day and I've had to have the door reskinned and sprayed etcetc. And, I thought "why not have the door handles replaced at the same time?" Why not indeed? Probably because the new one don't fit! These one didn't anyway..hard to explain, but the interior angle under where the handle hinges was too acute and the handles stuck out too far. (It was indeed the handles, not the door skins. We tried them on the old skin and other door. No good). So,.. 1) can my old ones be rechromed? I seem to remember that they're made of some crummy metal. But they were chromed originally, so why not again. 2) &/or.does anyone know if all the new handles are useless or are there some good ones out there? I don't think it would be fair to say where they came from as these guys have always been 100% so far. I'll tell individuals, if requested. Any ideas, comments? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmandas at yahoo.com Thu May 10 07:18:22 2018 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Thu, 10 May 2018 09:18:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shop space in Connecticut. Anyone in the Easton, Redding, Monroe area of Connecticut with decent shop space that's willing to help a guy out? Im looking to pull an engine. My garage is unheated with 7ft ceilings. Greg Sent from my iPad From prattri at msn.com Thu May 10 09:09:22 2018 From: prattri at msn.com (Richard Pratt) Date: Thu, 10 May 2018 15:09:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 Healey List, Has anyone seen this door lock arrangement. Any information would be appreciated. Richard -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2018-05-09 11.20.25.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2204946 bytes Desc: 2018-05-09 11.20.25.jpg URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Thu May 10 11:22:12 2018 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Thu, 10 May 2018 13:22:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 References: I have it on my Rally car. Fitted to early BN4?s Jim Werner On Thursday, May 10, 2018, Richard Pratt wrote: Healey List, Has anyone seen this door lock arrangement. Any information would be appreciated. Richard _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Thu May 10 11:37:58 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Thu, 10 May 2018 18:37:58 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 References: I recalled something about that lock, being into door handles myself right now. A quick look at the Anderson/Moment bible shows it in a picture with the caption ?The driver?s side door handle was fitted with a lock on the first series BN4s?. I suppose that there were a load of handles left over from some other car and they just used them up. I think that I also recall that the other side/door did not have a lock. I?ve not looked at my other books, so am not sure which side of the water the book is referring to?.British driver?s side or N.America?s side. But, I guess that it?s right for your car anyhow. Note: Guess. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Pratt Sent: 10 May 2018 16:09 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 Healey List, Has anyone seen this door lock arrangement. Any information would be appreciated. Richard -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu May 10 12:09:10 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 10 May 2018 11:09:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 References: Only on the Healey Longbridge and also have seen on a Aston Martin DB4 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Richard Pratt Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2018 8:09 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 Healey List, Has anyone seen this door lock arrangement. Any information would be appreciated. Richard -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100s at live.com Thu May 10 13:00:27 2018 From: healey100s at live.com (Don Anglesey) Date: Thu, 10 May 2018 19:00:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 References: Yep, Early 100-6 drivers door had lock. My 57' has one just like the one pictured. Don 57' BN4 Get Outlook for Android ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Richard Pratt Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2018 9:09:22 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 Healey List, Has anyone seen this door lock arrangement. Any information would be appreciated. Richard -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu May 10 17:42:47 2018 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 11 May 2018 09:42:47 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 References: Hello The fitting of the lockable door handle to the early 100/6s is one of the mysteries of life. While they were on the driver?s door on LHD cars they were also fitted to the RHD cars, but only on the passenger door, meaning that the driver?s side didn?t have one. Why the passenger would want a door lock and not the driver is beyond me. Apart from the idea of why you would fit a door lock to an open car in the 1950s in the first place, we can only assume that when the body/chassis assemblies were made at Jensen Motors there was no thought given whether an individual car would end up in either left or right hand drive. So when the mechanicals were installed at Longbridge the locks were already in place. Incidentally the same door locks were also fitted to the Jowett Javelin, but on the driver?s side on RHD cars. That compounds the mystery. Only the British would do that. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Pratt Sent: Friday, 11 May 2018 1:09 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 Healey List, Has anyone seen this door lock arrangement. Any information would be appreciated. Richard -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Thu May 10 23:29:44 2018 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Fri, 11 May 2018 05:29:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 References: On Thursday, May 10, 2018, 8:47:53 AM PDT, Richard Pratt wrote: Healey List, Has anyone seen this door lock arrangement. Any information would be appreciated. Richard ? ? _Well, I've got a door that takes a handle like that, but alas no handle ... Jim? (59- BN4) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Fri May 11 04:12:52 2018 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Fri, 11 May 2018 22:12:52 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 References: <000001d3e885$a40fa720$ec2ef560$@alexarevel.plus.com> Gentlemen, I have seen the lockable door handle only on Longbridge-produced 100/6s and the handle was always fitted to the LH door only - on both LHD and RHD models. The text in the Moment/Anderson book refers to 'export' (LHD) models only, hence the comment "driver's side". Correct in your country, but not in ours. ;-) Mark Ardmore New Zealand _____ From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com [mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com] Sent: Friday, 11 May 2018 5:38 a.m. To: 'Richard Pratt'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 I recalled something about that lock, being into door handles myself right now. A quick look at the Anderson/Moment bible shows it in a picture with the caption "The driver's side door handle was fitted with a lock on the first series BN4s". I suppose that there were a load of handles left over from some other car and they just used them up. I think that I also recall that the other side/door did not have a lock. I've not looked at my other books, so am not sure which side of the water the book is referring to..British driver's side or N.America's side. But, I guess that it's right for your car anyhow. Note: Guess. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Pratt Sent: 10 May 2018 16:09 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 Healey List, Has anyone seen this door lock arrangement. Any information would be appreciated. Richard -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmandas at yahoo.com Fri May 11 09:55:04 2018 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Fri, 11 May 2018 11:55:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? Greg Sent from my iPad From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Fri May 11 11:23:38 2018 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Fri, 11 May 2018 10:23:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? References: <555AC128-8887-4D44-9600-16B5EF819742@yahoo.com> Sent?from?my?BlackBerry?10?smartphone. ? Original Message ? From: Greg Mandas Sent: Friday, May 11, 2018 9:55 AM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? They are SU fuel pumps. A google search of SU fuel pumps rebuilding should get you started. A lot of folks do it themselves.? -Roland? Greg Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 11 12:47:45 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 11 May 2018 11:47:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? References: <555AC128-8887-4D44-9600-16B5EF819742@yahoo.com> <20180511172338.4579410.58983.11747@gmail.com> David DuBois has done right by me.? I think he only works Oct-May though. http://userwebs.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ Bob On 5/11/2018 10:23 AM, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: > > Sent?from?my?BlackBerry?10?smartphone. > ? Original Message > From: Greg Mandas > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2018 9:55 AM > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? > They are SU fuel pumps. A google search of SU fuel pumps rebuilding should get you started. A lot of folks do it themselves. > -Roland? > > > Greg > > Sent from my iPad > > From gmandas at yahoo.com Fri May 11 14:14:34 2018 From: gmandas at yahoo.com (Greg Mandas) Date: Fri, 11 May 2018 16:14:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild SU Fuel pumps? References: <555AC128-8887-4D44-9600-16B5EF819742@yahoo.com> <20180511172338.4579410.58983.11747@gmail.com> Apologies to all, yes of course SU fuel pumps. Greg Sent from my iPad > On May 11, 2018, at 1:23 PM, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: > > > > Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. > Original Message > From: Greg Mandas > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2018 9:55 AM > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? > They are SU fuel pumps. A google search of SU fuel pumps rebuilding should get you started. A lot of folks do it themselves. > -Roland? > > > Greg > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com > From ross.osborne at xtra.co.nz Fri May 11 14:28:08 2018 From: ross.osborne at xtra.co.nz (Ross Osborne) Date: Sat, 12 May 2018 08:28:08 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 References: <000001d3e885$a40fa720$ec2ef560$@alexarevel.plus.com> <094E341032B24C87A5996E8554397F7D@MarkPC> On BN4's with the lock on the left side door there was a lock on the right side door as well. It is a small lever on the 'inside' of the door catch accessed from the door cavity. Ross -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri May 11 16:53:12 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 11 May 2018 18:53:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Newer Mini Listers My brother in law picked up a 2015 Mini Cooper S recently. Very low mileage car and during our visit to their home today allowed me to take it out for a short drive. First 1000 feet put a smile on my face that lasted for the next 20 miles. Fun car with nearly 190 hp and a six speed trans. Fun fun fun Perry Sent from my iPhone From glemon at neb.rr.com Fri May 11 22:21:50 2018 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Sat, 12 May 2018 0:21:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild SU Fuel pumps? Dave Dubois http://userwebs.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ there is contact information as well as technical on the page. Greg Lemon ---- Greg Mandas wrote: > Apologies to all, yes of course SU fuel pumps. Greg Sent from my iPad > On May 11, 2018, at 1:23 PM, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: > > > > Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. > Original Message > From: Greg Mandas > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2018 9:55 AM > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? > They are SU fuel pumps. A google search of SU fuel pumps rebuilding should get you started. A lot of folks do it themselves. > -Roland? > > > Greg > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From ronfineesq at earthlink.net Sat May 12 11:00:43 2018 From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sat, 12 May 2018 10:00:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Rebuild The steering box on my BN7 has developed a major problem. I am anticipating having to pull it and replace the two ball bearings but I was wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar problem. I noticed that the steering wheel seemed to be sticking in multiple spots in the rotation while driving. Once I got the car up on jacks with the weight off the front tires it became obvious that the wheel is sticking or tight every 3-5 degrees of rotation from full right to left. The only thing I can think of that might be causing that would be a broken ball bearing although I am not sure why that would happen other than old age. The box does have a full load of grease and has worked fine for the 13 years since my restoration was completed. Has anyone else had to rebuild a steering box due to such a failure? Is there anyway to anticipate the number or size of shims I should have on hand to complete a rebuild? Thanks, Ron Fine 61BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk Sat May 12 11:38:38 2018 From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge) Date: Sat, 12 May 2018 17:38:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Restoration shop. References: <927208068.901285.1526146718611.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Wot, no Healeys?? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/classic/inside-the-worlds-largest-classic-car-restorer/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 12 11:59:14 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 12 May 2018 10:59:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Rebuild References: <2148CBEEE69B4A9CBF5D16013C8EAEAA@Inspiron660> I don't remember how many shims I used, but do recall that the gasket is about 0.005"? I think somewhere between 0.005" and 0.015" shims should be needed.? I think a broken bearing would be rough all through rotation; your problem is likely with the worm and/or peg.? I'd be strongly tempted to install a Denis Welch box. Did you really use a grease instead of oil in the box? Here's what happened when I broke a bearing race: On 5/12/2018 10:00 AM, Ron Fine wrote: > The steering box on my BN7 has developed a major problem.? I am > anticipating having to pull it and replace the two ball bearings but I > was wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar problem.? I > noticed that the steering wheel seemed to be sticking in multiple > spots in the rotation while driving.? Once I got the car up on jacks > with the weight off the front tires it became obvious that the wheel > is sticking or tight every 3-5 degrees of rotation from full right to > left.? The only thing I can think of that might be causing that would > be a broken ball bearing although I am not sure why that would happen > other than old age.? The box does have a full load of grease and has > worked fine for the 13? years since my restoration was completed. > Has anyone else had to rebuild a steering box due to such a failure?? > Is there anyway to anticipate the number or size of shims I should > have on hand to complete a rebuild? > Thanks, > Ron Fine > 61BN7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: steering shaft.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 780273 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat May 12 12:21:47 2018 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 12 May 2018 11:21:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Rebuild References: HYu7fGkvcdzw5HYu8fORgC Ron, There could be a number of problems with your steering box. The type of steering on our Healey's is referred to as "peg and worm". See the attached picture. I took my steering box to a firm that rebuilds heavy duty truck steering boxes (Kenworth, Peterbilt, etc.). They use a similar design. It was inexpensive and they knew exactly what to do. If you are anywhere near Vancouver, Canada contact these people: http://www.cancraft.com/ Good luck, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fine Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2018 10:01 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Rebuild The steering box on my BN7 has developed a major problem. I am anticipating having to pull it and replace the two ball bearings but I was wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar problem. I noticed that the steering wheel seemed to be sticking in multiple spots in the rotation while driving. Once I got the car up on jacks with the weight off the front tires it became obvious that the wheel is sticking or tight every 3-5 degrees of rotation from full right to left. The only thing I can think of that might be causing that would be a broken ball bearing although I am not sure why that would happen other than old age. The box does have a full load of grease and has worked fine for the 13 years since my restoration was completed. Has anyone else had to rebuild a steering box due to such a failure? Is there anyway to anticipate the number or size of shims I should have on hand to complete a rebuild? Thanks, Ron Fine 61BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Sat May 12 17:29:36 2018 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 01:29:36 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Rebuild References: <2148CBEEE69B4A9CBF5D16013C8EAEAA@Inspiron660> Hi Anyone experiencing severe sticking in the box woudh find it pretty obvoius what to replace upon dismantling. It?a not a coffee brake job, unless you know what to do. Best , Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 12 maj 2018 kl. 19:00 skrev Ron Fine : > > The steering box on my BN7 has developed a major problem. I am anticipating having to pull it and replace the two ball bearings but I was wondering if anyone else has experienced a similar problem. I noticed that the steering wheel seemed to be sticking in multiple spots in the rotation while driving. Once I got the car up on jacks with the weight off the front tires it became obvious that the wheel is sticking or tight every 3-5 degrees of rotation from full right to left. The only thing I can think of that might be causing that would be a broken ball bearing although I am not sure why that would happen other than old age. The box does have a full load of grease and has worked fine for the 13 years since my restoration was completed. > > Has anyone else had to rebuild a steering box due to such a failure? Is there anyway to anticipate the number or size of shims I should have on hand to complete a rebuild? > > Thanks, > > Ron Fine > 61BN7 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bgdrab at eastlink.ca Sat May 12 17:55:00 2018 From: bgdrab at eastlink.ca (Brian Drab) Date: Sat, 12 May 2018 16:55:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 I currently manage the AHOABC monthly newsletter and website. In that capacity I received a request to list a new members car for sale. He lives in another town about 400 kms from Vancouver where I live. When he joined the club, he listed his car as a 1963 BJ7. This is the car he wishes to sell. He has owned it since 1975. He advised that he had the car restored several years ago. He sent me a number of high quality photos of the car. The car is beautiful example of a big Healey and looks gorgeous. The first thing that stood out to me was the car had a wood BJ8 dash. In addition, it has a BJ8 exhaust system. The interior pictures showed a BJ8 style armrest. Under the hood, the horns are mounted BJ8 style. There is no voltage regulator to check whether it is new or old style as the car has been equipped with an alternator. The car is badged with a 3000 MKII badge above the grill. The car has all BJ7 style lights. The rear seat, which on a BJ8 unfolds to make a luggage carrier, is BJ7 style. When I emailed back that it appeared to be a BJ8 and not a BJ7 he emailed me a copy of the heritage certificate. The certificate definitely lists a BJ7 with a manufacturing date of the 1 - 7 June 1962. Other than the car being a hybrid formed from two cars - BJ7 and a BJ8 I am at a loss to explain it. Anyone experienced anything like this? Brian Drab -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Sat May 12 18:38:35 2018 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 00:38:35 GMT Subject: [Healeys] First Day Issues I have 5 first day of issue post cards, cancelled August 25, 1988 in Detroit, MI for the 1928 Locomobile, 1935 Duesenbertg, 1932 Packard, 1933 Cord, and 1929 Pierce-Arrow. In mint condition. Free to the first request, including shipping. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ Constant Fatigue Is A Warning Sign??? Here's The Simple Fix gundrymd.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5af7895184b479515e20st01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sebring3000 at bigpond.com Sat May 12 21:03:50 2018 From: sebring3000 at bigpond.com (sebring3000 sebring3000) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 13:03:50 +1000 (AEST) Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 References: My memory of my RH drive BN.4 with LH door lock was that the RH door could be locked from the inside by turning the inside handle to the foward position thus making it unopenable from outside. I was offered an extra $100 by the Australian Touring Car Champion when I was looking to trade my first BN.4 in a Geoghans Sports Car yard because the LH door was locked! ?Also I replaced both door lock assemblies with new MG TF locks ( the only ones available back in 1970 ) and fitted the LH MG lock to the RH Healeey door. Common door lock for UK cars supplied to BMC by a sub-contractor. Joe ------ Original Message ------ From: "Richard Pratt" To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Friday, 11 May, 2018 At 1:09 AM Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 Healey List, Has anyone seen this door lock arrangement. Any information would be appreciated. Richard ? ? ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys sebring3000 at bigpond.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sebring3000 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eschulz at frontiernet.net Sat May 12 21:36:36 2018 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Sat, 12 May 2018 23:36:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <000001d3ea4c$a43b9a60$ecb2cf20$@eastlink.ca> Do the body, chassis and engine numbers on the car match up with the Heritage certificate? If not, then parts have come from other BJ7 or BJ8 donor cars. Elton On 5/12/2018 7:55 PM, Brian Drab wrote: > > I currently manage the AHOABC monthly newsletter and website. In that > capacity I received a request to list a new members car for sale. He > lives in another town about 400 kms from Vancouver where I live. When > he joined the club, he listed his car as a 1963 BJ7. > > This is the car he wishes to sell. He has owned it since 1975. He > advised that he had the car restored several years ago. He sent me a > number of high quality photos of the car. The car is beautiful example > of a big Healey and looks gorgeous. > > The first thing that stood out to me was the car had a wood BJ8 dash. > In addition, it has a BJ8 exhaust system. The interior pictures showed > a BJ8 style armrest. Under the hood, the horns are mounted BJ8 style. > > There is no voltage regulator to check whether it is new or old style > as the car has been equipped with an alternator. > > The car is badged with a 3000 MKII badge above the grill. The car has > all BJ7 style lights. The rear seat, which on a BJ8 unfolds to make a > luggage carrier, is BJ7 style. > > When I emailed back that it appeared to be a BJ8 and not a BJ7 he > emailed me a copy of the heritage certificate. The certificate > definitely lists a BJ7 with a manufacturing date of the 1 - 7 June 1962. > > Other than the car being a hybrid formed from two cars - BJ7 and a BJ8 > I am at a loss to explain it. > > Anyone experienced anything like this? > > Brian Drab > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 13 02:50:23 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 10:50:23 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <000001d3ea4c$a43b9a60$ecb2cf20$@eastlink.ca> <5AF7B2C4.1060806@frontiernet.net> It was not uncommon in the British motor industry that elements of the earlier or next model were fitted to the cars in the transition period so you may find BJ8 elements in late BJ7?s or BJ7 elements in early BJ8?s. Perhaps the car was restored/upgraded with BJ8 parts. Kees Oudesluijs Op 13-5-2018 om 05:36 schreef Elton Schulz: > Do the body, chassis and engine numbers on the car? match up with the > Heritage certificate? If not, then parts have come from other BJ7 or > BJ8 donor cars. > Elton > On 5/12/2018 7:55 PM, Brian Drab wrote: >> >> I currently manage the AHOABC monthly newsletter and website. In that >> capacity I received a request to list a new members car for sale.? He >> lives in another town about 400 kms from Vancouver where I live. When >> he joined the club, he listed his car as a 1963 BJ7. >> >> This is the car he wishes to sell. He has owned it since 1975. He >> advised that he had the car restored several years ago. He sent me a >> number of high quality photos of the car. The car is beautiful >> example of a big Healey and looks gorgeous. >> >> The first thing that stood out to me was the car had a wood BJ8 dash. >> In addition, it has a BJ8 exhaust system. The interior pictures >> showed a BJ8 style armrest. Under the hood, the horns are mounted BJ8 >> style. >> >> There is no voltage regulator to check whether it is new or old style >> as the car has been equipped with an alternator. >> >> The car is badged with a 3000 MKII badge above the grill. The car has >> all BJ7 style lights. The rear seat, which on a BJ8 unfolds to make a >> luggage carrier, is BJ7 style. >> >> When I emailed back that it appeared to be a BJ8 and not a BJ7 he >> emailed me a copy of the heritage certificate. The certificate >> definitely lists a BJ7 with a manufacturing date of the 1 - 7 June 1962. >> >> Other than the car being a hybrid formed from two cars - BJ7 and a >> BJ8 I am at a loss to explain it. >> >> Anyone experienced anything like this? >> >> Brian Drab >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 13 03:56:39 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 11:56:39 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps using the standard points and adding a transil across the points to limit the voltage across the points thus preventing arcing. It also makes the pump dual polarity. Keeping the points means that it is possible to attend to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. Electronically converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic system, are supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they sometimes do,? that?s it. It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only necessary to clean and polish the points and properly set the point gaps, spring blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to cast iron body 2,3mm, some say 1,8mm but that is a very early setting. Replacement is easy but dismantling the pump is needed. If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals may have corroded. The valves may than need replacement. Dismantle the pump, clean and rebuild. The old triple layer diaphragm is nearly always in good serviceable condition and preferable to a new single layer one. It may feel a bit stif, but this is usually caused by the layers being stuck together. Just pry the layers apart very carefully, especially the very thin kevlar membrane and apply just a smear of talcum powder between the layers. There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding process. Kees Oudesluijs From Dayton21 at comcast.net Sun May 13 04:05:40 2018 From: Dayton21 at comcast.net (Mitch Simmons) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 06:05:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 door glass Hello I am about to fix my BJ8 roll up door windows....they are loose and hard to roll up. Any advice on this operation would be greatly appreciated as always Cheers Mitchell Sent from my iPhone From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun May 13 06:23:07 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 08:23:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <000001d3ea4c$a43b9a60$ecb2cf20$@eastlink.ca> Brian, I have seen a car recently that was advertised for sale by Beverly Hills Car Club as a BJ7. It had a wood dash, BJ8 "short tail" center console (but no armrest), BJ8 front seats and door panels, BJ7 rear seat upholstery and BJ7 backrest. The external features were either BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. The car had a BJ7 VIN. It was not possible to determine whether the car began life as a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. I am aware of one other car that was created by Fourintune out of two junked BJ8s and they put a BJ7 VIN plate on it and sold it to someone in New York state. This car later came to North Carolina and was sold after the bond period expired. The new owner had some problems registering the car with the NY BJ7 number because of the discrepancies. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Drab Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2018 7:55 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 I currently manage the AHOABC monthly newsletter and website. In that capacity I received a request to list a new members car for sale. He lives in another town about 400 kms from Vancouver where I live. When he joined the club, he listed his car as a 1963 BJ7. This is the car he wishes to sell. He has owned it since 1975. He advised that he had the car restored several years ago. He sent me a number of high quality photos of the car. The car is beautiful example of a big Healey and looks gorgeous. The first thing that stood out to me was the car had a wood BJ8 dash. In addition, it has a BJ8 exhaust system. The interior pictures showed a BJ8 style armrest. Under the hood, the horns are mounted BJ8 style. There is no voltage regulator to check whether it is new or old style as the car has been equipped with an alternator. The car is badged with a 3000 MKII badge above the grill. The car has all BJ7 style lights. The rear seat, which on a BJ8 unfolds to make a luggage carrier, is BJ7 style. When I emailed back that it appeared to be a BJ8 and not a BJ7 he emailed me a copy of the heritage certificate. The certificate definitely lists a BJ7 with a manufacturing date of the 1 - 7 June 1962. Other than the car being a hybrid formed from two cars - BJ7 and a BJ8 I am at a loss to explain it. Anyone experienced anything like this? Brian Drab -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun May 13 06:57:37 2018 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 08:57:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 door glass References: <92C2D71D-B623-4043-A610-FAAB2B4B00E2@comcast.net> You probably need new nylon guides, available from Moss. Take it apart, clean and lubricate and check for smooth up and down. If it jams, check that the channels aren't kinked. Make sure the screws holding the chrome grab handle aren't too long or you'll scratch the windows. Rick Neville On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 7:48 AM Mitch Simmons wrote: > > Hello > I am about to fix my BJ8 roll up door windows....they are loose and hard > to roll up. > Any advice on this operation would be greatly appreciated as always > Cheers > Mitchell > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun May 13 07:24:41 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 09:24:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <000001d3ea4c$a43b9a60$ecb2cf20$@eastlink.ca> <017501d3eab5$27c10e20$77432a60$@rr.com> One possible tell might be if there is a VIN number on the right hand shock tower. Weren't those just on the BJ8s? All, or after some point in time? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 05/13/2018 08:23 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Brian, I have seen a car recently that was advertised for sale by > Beverly Hills Car Club as a BJ7.? It had a wood dash, BJ8 "short tail" > center console (but no armrest), BJ8 front seats and door panels, BJ7 > rear seat upholstery and BJ7 backrest.? The external features were > either BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8.? The car had a BJ7 VIN.? It was not possible > to determine whether the car began life as a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. > > I am aware of one other car that was created by Fourintune out of two > junked BJ8s and they put a BJ7 VIN plate on it and sold it to someone in > New York state.? This car later came to North Carolina and was sold > after the bond period expired.? The new owner had some problems > registering the car with the NY BJ7 number because of the discrepancies. > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Brian Drab > *Sent:* Saturday, May 12, 2018 7:55 PM > *To:* Healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 > > I currently manage the AHOABC monthly newsletter and website. In that > capacity I received a request to list a new members car for sale.? He > lives in another town about 400 kms from Vancouver where I live. When he > joined the club, he listed his car as a 1963 BJ7. > > This is the car he wishes to sell. He has owned it since 1975. He > advised that he had the car restored several years ago. He sent me a > number of high quality photos of the car. The car is beautiful example > of a big Healey and looks gorgeous. > > The first thing that stood out to me was the car had a wood BJ8 dash. In > addition, it has a BJ8 exhaust system. The interior pictures showed a > BJ8 style armrest. Under the hood, the horns are mounted BJ8 style. > > There is no voltage regulator to check whether it is new or old style as > the car has been equipped with an alternator. > > The car is badged with a 3000 MKII badge above the grill. The car has > all BJ7 style lights. The rear seat, which on a BJ8 unfolds to make a > luggage carrier, is BJ7 style. > > When I emailed back that it appeared to be a BJ8 and not a BJ7 he > emailed me a copy of the heritage certificate. The certificate > definitely lists a BJ7 with a manufacturing date of the 1 - 7 June 1962. > > Other than the car being a hybrid formed from two cars - BJ7 and a BJ8 I > am at a loss to explain it. > > Anyone experienced anything like this? > > Brian Drab > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From jwhlyadv at aol.com Sun May 13 07:31:24 2018 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 09:31:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <000001d3ea4c$a43b9a60$ecb2cf20$@eastlink.ca> I would check the frame to see if the car has a rear clip from another car. I had one that was a BJ7 with a BJ8 rear clip. The work was done very well and the price reflected the situation. Jim Werner -----Original Message----- From: Brian Drab To: Healeys Sent: Sat, May 12, 2018 9:38 pm Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 I currently manage the AHOABC monthly newsletter and website. In that capacity I received a request to list a new members car for sale. He lives in another town about 400 kms from Vancouver where I live. When he joined the club, he listed his car as a 1963 BJ7. This is the car he wishes to sell. He has owned it since 1975. He advised that he had the car restored several years ago. He sent me a number of high quality photos of the car. The car is beautiful example of a big Healey and looks gorgeous. The first thing that stood out to me was the car had a wood BJ8 dash. In addition, it has a BJ8 exhaust system. The interior pictures showed a BJ8 style armrest. Under the hood, the horns are mounted BJ8 style. There is no voltage regulator to check whether it is new or old style as the car has been equipped with an alternator. The car is badged with a 3000 MKII badge above the grill. The car has all BJ7 style lights. The rear seat, which on a BJ8 unfolds to make a luggage carrier, is BJ7 style. When I emailed back that it appeared to be a BJ8 and not a BJ7 he emailed me a copy of the heritage certificate. The certificate definitely lists a BJ7 with a manufacturing date of the 1 - 7 June 1962. Other than the car being a hybrid formed from two cars - BJ7 and a BJ8 I am at a loss to explain it. Anyone experienced anything like this? Brian Drab _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun May 13 08:01:15 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 10:01:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <000001d3ea4c$a43b9a60$ecb2cf20$@eastlink.ca> <5AF7B2C4.1060806@frontiernet.net> For the car I was speaking of for sale at BHCC, the VIN is an original plate for a BJ7, the body plate is original for a BJ7 (whether it matches the VIN or not, I don't have the data to determine). The screws attaching the plates are not original. The engine serial number is missing, but the carbs appear to be HD8s. A Heritage certificate is not a guarantee of the identity of a car whether the numbers on the plates match or not. The plates are easily changed from one car to another. It is a frequent situation for BJ8s (and probably other models as well), that a car missing all identity except for one number (a body or engine number, for example) has been used to obtain a certificate and the missing plates remanufactured to match the remaining number. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC TARHEELY license plate From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Elton Schulz Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2018 11:37 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 Do the body, chassis and engine numbers on the car match up with the Heritage certificate? If not, then parts have come from other BJ7 or BJ8 donor cars. Elton On 5/12/2018 7:55 PM, Brian Drab wrote: I currently manage the AHOABC monthly newsletter and website. In that capacity I received a request to list a new members car for sale. He lives in another town about 400 kms from Vancouver where I live. When he joined the club, he listed his car as a 1963 BJ7. This is the car he wishes to sell. He has owned it since 1975. He advised that he had the car restored several years ago. He sent me a number of high quality photos of the car. The car is beautiful example of a big Healey and looks gorgeous. The first thing that stood out to me was the car had a wood BJ8 dash. In addition, it has a BJ8 exhaust system. The interior pictures showed a BJ8 style armrest. Under the hood, the horns are mounted BJ8 style. There is no voltage regulator to check whether it is new or old style as the car has been equipped with an alternator. The car is badged with a 3000 MKII badge above the grill. The car has all BJ7 style lights. The rear seat, which on a BJ8 unfolds to make a luggage carrier, is BJ7 style. When I emailed back that it appeared to be a BJ8 and not a BJ7 he emailed me a copy of the heritage certificate. The certificate definitely lists a BJ7 with a manufacturing date of the 1 - 7 June 1962. Other than the car being a hybrid formed from two cars - BJ7 and a BJ8 I am at a loss to explain it. Anyone experienced anything like this? Brian Drab _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 19755 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healey100m at me.com Sun May 13 08:40:37 2018 From: healey100m at me.com (Randall Hicks) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 10:40:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <000001d3ea4c$a43b9a60$ecb2cf20$@eastlink.ca> <017501d3eab5$27c10e20$77432a60$@rr.com> <9fac25a0-334d-5417-196a-8e49a421ee88@earthlink.net> There is some evidence that the stamping of chassis numbers started with late BJ7?s but no start date or body number has been determined. Regardless, the number would indicate a BJ7 or BJ8. Randy > On May 13, 2018, at 9:24 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > One possible tell might be if there is a VIN number on the right hand shock tower. Weren't those just on the BJ8s? All, or after some point in time? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 05/13/2018 08:23 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: >> Brian, I have seen a car recently that was advertised for sale by Beverly Hills Car Club as a BJ7. It had a wood dash, BJ8 "short tail" center console (but no armrest), BJ8 front seats and door panels, BJ7 rear seat upholstery and BJ7 backrest. The external features were either BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. The car had a BJ7 VIN. It was not possible to determine whether the car began life as a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. >> I am aware of one other car that was created by Fourintune out of two junked BJ8s and they put a BJ7 VIN plate on it and sold it to someone in New York state. This car later came to North Carolina and was sold after the bond period expired. The new owner had some problems registering the car with the NY BJ7 number because of the discrepancies. >> Steve Byers >> HBJ8L/36666 >> BJ8 Registry >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> Havelock, NC >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Brian Drab >> *Sent:* Saturday, May 12, 2018 7:55 PM >> *To:* Healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 >> I currently manage the AHOABC monthly newsletter and website. In that capacity I received a request to list a new members car for sale. He lives in another town about 400 kms from Vancouver where I live. When he joined the club, he listed his car as a 1963 BJ7. >> This is the car he wishes to sell. He has owned it since 1975. He advised that he had the car restored several years ago. He sent me a number of high quality photos of the car. The car is beautiful example of a big Healey and looks gorgeous. >> The first thing that stood out to me was the car had a wood BJ8 dash. In addition, it has a BJ8 exhaust system. The interior pictures showed a BJ8 style armrest. Under the hood, the horns are mounted BJ8 style. >> There is no voltage regulator to check whether it is new or old style as the car has been equipped with an alternator. >> The car is badged with a 3000 MKII badge above the grill. The car has all BJ7 style lights. The rear seat, which on a BJ8 unfolds to make a luggage carrier, is BJ7 style. >> When I emailed back that it appeared to be a BJ8 and not a BJ7 he emailed me a copy of the heritage certificate. The certificate definitely lists a BJ7 with a manufacturing date of the 1 - 7 June 1962. >> Other than the car being a hybrid formed from two cars - BJ7 and a BJ8 I am at a loss to explain it. >> Anyone experienced anything like this? >> Brian Drab From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sun May 13 08:47:53 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 15:47:53 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <000001d3ea4c$a43b9a60$ecb2cf20$@eastlink.ca> <017501d3eab5$27c10e20$77432a60$@rr.com> <9fac25a0-334d-5417-196a-8e49a421ee88@earthlink.net> No, they were certainly on the MKII BT7s. I remember Bill Bolton getting me to find mine for him. Can't comment on older cars. And not a VIN number as I recall.....more like a serial/production run number. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: 13 May 2018 14:25 To: BJ8Healeys ; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 One possible tell might be if there is a VIN number on the right hand shock tower. Weren't those just on the BJ8s? All, or after some point in time? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 05/13/2018 08:23 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Brian, I have seen a car recently that was advertised for sale by > Beverly Hills Car Club as a BJ7.? It had a wood dash, BJ8 "short tail" > center console (but no armrest), BJ8 front seats and door panels, BJ7 > rear seat upholstery and BJ7 backrest.? The external features were > either BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8.? The car had a BJ7 VIN.? It was not > possible to determine whether the car began life as a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. > > I am aware of one other car that was created by Fourintune out of two > junked BJ8s and they put a BJ7 VIN plate on it and sold it to someone > in New York state.? This car later came to North Carolina and was sold > after the bond period expired.? The new owner had some problems > registering the car with the NY BJ7 number because of the discrepancies. > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Brian Drab > *Sent:* Saturday, May 12, 2018 7:55 PM > *To:* Healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 > > I currently manage the AHOABC monthly newsletter and website. In that > capacity I received a request to list a new members car for sale.? He > lives in another town about 400 kms from Vancouver where I live. When > he joined the club, he listed his car as a 1963 BJ7. > > This is the car he wishes to sell. He has owned it since 1975. He > advised that he had the car restored several years ago. He sent me a > number of high quality photos of the car. The car is beautiful example > of a big Healey and looks gorgeous. > > The first thing that stood out to me was the car had a wood BJ8 dash. > In addition, it has a BJ8 exhaust system. The interior pictures showed > a > BJ8 style armrest. Under the hood, the horns are mounted BJ8 style. > > There is no voltage regulator to check whether it is new or old style > as the car has been equipped with an alternator. > > The car is badged with a 3000 MKII badge above the grill. The car has > all BJ7 style lights. The rear seat, which on a BJ8 unfolds to make a > luggage carrier, is BJ7 style. > > When I emailed back that it appeared to be a BJ8 and not a BJ7 he > emailed me a copy of the heritage certificate. The certificate > definitely lists a BJ7 with a manufacturing date of the 1 - 7 June 1962. > > Other than the car being a hybrid formed from two cars - BJ7 and a BJ8 > I am at a loss to explain it. > > Anyone experienced anything like this? > > Brian Drab > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus. com From JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com Sun May 13 08:49:52 2018 From: JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com (Jim Frakes) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 10:49:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 door glass References: <92C2D71D-B623-4043-A610-FAAB2B4B00E2@comcast.net>, An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 13 09:00:23 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 08:00:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? References: True enough about the electronic pumps.? This is what happens when water gets into the electronics (attached photo).? This pump had about 50K miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious rain in Washington state. What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check ball/valve that vents ozone out of the control (electronic) section needs the plastic cap over over the vent.? I haven't bought a pump in a while, but IIRC some of them come with a metal 'pipe'--for lack of a better word--without the plastic cap that helps prevent water from entering.? Installing the cap--if you can find one--involves pulling the metal pipe off--be careful you don't lose the small ball bearing check ball--and installing the plastic cap over it. Bob On 5/13/2018 2:56 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps using > the standard points and adding a transil across the points to limit > the voltage across the points thus preventing arcing. It also makes > the pump dual polarity. Keeping the points means that it is possible > to attend to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. Electronically > converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic system, are > supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they sometimes do,? > that?s it. > > It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only necessary to > clean and polish the points and properly set the point gaps, spring > blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to cast iron body 2,3mm, some > say 1,8mm but that is a very early setting. Replacement is easy but > dismantling the pump is needed. > > If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals may have > corroded. The valves may than need replacement. Dismantle the pump, > clean and rebuild. The old triple layer diaphragm is nearly always in > good serviceable condition and preferable to a new single layer one. > It may feel a bit stif, but this is usually caused by the layers being > stuck together. Just pry the layers apart very carefully, especially > the very thin kevlar membrane and apply just a smear of talcum powder > between the layers. > > There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding process. > > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Pump1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2321066 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 13 09:04:00 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 08:04:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 door glass References: <92C2D71D-B623-4043-A610-FAAB2B4B00E2@comcast.net> When I bought my BJ8, it had a rattle inside the passenger side door.? I finally realized it was the window glass bouncing around in its channels (yes, the guides were properly installed).? I solved the rattle by carefully squeezing the metal channel with channellock pliers.? Not too much, or the window will bind, but enough to secure the window in the channel and eliminate the rattle.? If you have said rattle, you might take care of this while you're in the doors. Bob On 5/13/2018 3:05 AM, Mitch Simmons wrote: > Hello > I am about to fix my BJ8 roll up door windows....they are loose and hard to roll up. > Any advice on this operation would be greatly appreciated as always > Cheers > Mitchell > Sent from my iPhone > > > From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 13 09:06:49 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 08:06:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <000001d3ea4c$a43b9a60$ecb2cf20$@eastlink.ca> <017501d3eab5$27c10e20$77432a60$@rr.com> "... car that was created by Fourintune out of two junked BJ8s and they put a BJ7 VIN plate on it and sold it to someone in New York state" Hmmm ... Am I the only one who thinks this was a bit shady? Bob On 5/13/2018 5:23 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > Brian, I have seen a car recently that was advertised for sale by > Beverly Hills Car Club as a BJ7.? It had a wood dash, BJ8 "short tail" > center console (but no armrest), BJ8 front seats and door panels, BJ7 > rear seat upholstery and BJ7 backrest.? The external features were > either BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8.? The car had a BJ7 VIN.? It was not > possible to determine whether the car began life as a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. > > I am aware of one other car that was created by Fourintune out of two > junked BJ8s and they put a BJ7 VIN plate on it and sold it to someone > in New York state.? This car later came to North Carolina and was sold > after the bond period expired.? The new owner had some problems > registering the car with the NY BJ7 number because of the discrepancies. > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 13 09:11:06 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 08:11:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 door glass References: <92C2D71D-B623-4043-A610-FAAB2B4B00E2@comcast.net> Regarding the screws: https://mossmotors.com/media/instructions/314-251.pdf On 5/13/2018 5:57 AM, HealeyRick wrote: > You probably need new nylon guides, available from Moss.? Take it > apart, clean and lubricate and check for smooth up and down.? If it > jams, check that the channels aren't kinked.? Make sure the screws > holding the chrome grab handle aren't too long or you'll scratch the > windows. > > Rick Neville > > On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 7:48 AM Mitch Simmons > > Hello > I am about to fix my BJ8 roll up door windows....they are loose > and hard to roll up. > Any advice on this operation would be greatly appreciated as always > Cheers > Mitchell > Sent from my iPhone > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun May 13 11:58:23 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 13:58:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? References: <7095e270-4008-f33b-90d0-b2ddc07da738@comcast.net> Bob, I believe that the idea with the metal pipe was to attach a plastic tube to it and vent the pump elsewhere. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 05/13/2018 11:00 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > True enough about the electronic pumps.? This is what happens when water > gets into the electronics (attached photo).? This pump had about 50K > miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious rain in > Washington state. > > What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check ball/valve > that vents ozone out of the control (electronic) section needs the > plastic cap over over the vent.? I haven't bought a pump in a while, but > IIRC some of them come with a metal 'pipe'--for lack of a better > word--without the plastic cap that helps prevent water from entering. > Installing the cap--if you can find one--involves pulling the metal pipe > off--be careful you don't lose the small ball bearing check ball--and > installing the plastic cap over it. > > Bob > > > On 5/13/2018 2:56 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps using >> the standard points and adding a transil across the points to limit >> the voltage across the points thus preventing arcing. It also makes >> the pump dual polarity. Keeping the points means that it is possible >> to attend to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. Electronically >> converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic system, are >> supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they sometimes do, >> that?s it. >> >> It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only necessary to >> clean and polish the points and properly set the point gaps, spring >> blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to cast iron body 2,3mm, some >> say 1,8mm but that is a very early setting. Replacement is easy but >> dismantling the pump is needed. >> >> If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals may have >> corroded. The valves may than need replacement. Dismantle the pump, >> clean and rebuild. The old triple layer diaphragm is nearly always in >> good serviceable condition and preferable to a new single layer one. >> It may feel a bit stif, but this is usually caused by the layers being >> stuck together. Just pry the layers apart very carefully, especially >> the very thin kevlar membrane and apply just a smear of talcum powder >> between the layers. >> >> There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding process. >> >> >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 13 12:27:37 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 11:27:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? References: <7095e270-4008-f33b-90d0-b2ddc07da738@comcast.net> That didn't occur to me--and it makes sense--although I have vented the diaphragm chamber into the boot. Bob On 5/13/2018 10:58 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Bob, > > I believe that the idea with the metal pipe was to attach a plastic > tube to it and vent the pump elsewhere. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 05/13/2018 11:00 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> True enough about the electronic pumps. This is what happens when >> water gets into the electronics (attached photo).? This pump had >> about 50K miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious >> rain in Washington state. >> >> What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check >> ball/valve that vents ozone out of the control (electronic) section >> needs the plastic cap over over the vent.? I haven't bought a pump in >> a while, but IIRC some of them come with a metal 'pipe'--for lack of >> a better word--without the plastic cap that helps prevent water from >> entering. Installing the cap--if you can find one--involves pulling >> the metal pipe off--be careful you don't lose the small ball bearing >> check ball--and installing the plastic cap over it. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 5/13/2018 2:56 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >>> I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps >>> using the standard points and adding a transil across the points to >>> limit the voltage across the points thus preventing arcing. It also >>> makes the pump dual polarity. Keeping the points means that it is >>> possible to attend to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. >>> Electronically converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic >>> system, are supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they >>> sometimes do, that?s it. >>> >>> It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only necessary >>> to clean and polish the points and properly set the point gaps, >>> spring blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to cast iron body >>> 2,3mm, some say 1,8mm but that is a very early setting. Replacement >>> is easy but dismantling the pump is needed. >>> >>> If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals may >>> have corroded. The valves may than need replacement. Dismantle the >>> pump, clean and rebuild. The old triple layer diaphragm is nearly >>> always in good serviceable condition and preferable to a new single >>> layer one. It may feel a bit stif, but this is usually caused by the >>> layers being stuck together. Just pry the layers apart very >>> carefully, especially the very thin kevlar membrane and apply just a >>> smear of talcum powder between the layers. >>> >>> There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding process. >>> >>> >>> >>> Kees Oudesluijs > From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun May 13 13:08:28 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 12:08:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? References: <7095e270-4008-f33b-90d0-b2ddc07da738@comcast.net> Bob, Check this out. I talked with him at a swap meet a few years back. https://www.sufuelpump.com/ John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2018 8:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? True enough about the electronic pumps. This is what happens when water gets into the electronics (attached photo). This pump had about 50K miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious rain in Washington state. What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check ball/valve that vents ozone out of the control (electronic) section needs the plastic cap over over the vent. I haven't bought a pump in a while, but IIRC some of them come with a metal 'pipe'--for lack of a better word--without the plastic cap that helps prevent water from entering. Installing the cap--if you can find one--involves pulling the metal pipe off--be careful you don't lose the small ball bearing check ball--and installing the plastic cap over it. Bob On 5/13/2018 2:56 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps using > the standard points and adding a transil across the points to limit > the voltage across the points thus preventing arcing. It also makes > the pump dual polarity. Keeping the points means that it is possible > to attend to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. Electronically > converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic system, are > supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they sometimes do, > that?s it. > > It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only necessary to > clean and polish the points and properly set the point gaps, spring > blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to cast iron body 2,3mm, some > say 1,8mm but that is a very early setting. Replacement is easy but > dismantling the pump is needed. > > If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals may have > corroded. The valves may than need replacement. Dismantle the pump, > clean and rebuild. The old triple layer diaphragm is nearly always in > good serviceable condition and preferable to a new single layer one. > It may feel a bit stif, but this is usually caused by the layers being > stuck together. Just pry the layers apart very carefully, especially > the very thin kevlar membrane and apply just a smear of talcum powder > between the layers. > > There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding process. > > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > From pdzwig at summaventures.com Sun May 13 13:08:37 2018 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 20:08:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 References: <00ef01d3e8b8$9ad1bee0$d0753ca0$@tpg.com.au> Patrick, My RHD 100-6 57 Longbridge (produced in May that year) had a driver's side lock. My understanding is that they were fited to the driver's side door as appropriate. I have no idea, however, why the locks were only fitted to the driver's side. Peter On 11/05/2018 00:42, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello > > ? > > The fitting of the lockable door handle to the early 100/6s is one of the > mysteries of life. > > ? > > While they were on the driver?s door on LHD cars they were also fitted to the > RHD cars, but only on the passenger door, meaning that the driver?s side didn?t > have one. Why the passenger would want a door lock and not the driver is beyond me. > > ? > > Apart from the idea of why you would fit a door lock to an open car in the 1950s > in the first place, we can only assume that when the body/chassis assemblies > were made at Jensen Motors there was no thought given whether an individual car > would end up in either left or right hand drive. So when the mechanicals were > installed at Longbridge the locks were already in place. > > ? > > Incidentally the same door locks were also fitted to the Jowett Javelin, but on > the driver?s side on RHD cars. That compounds the mystery. Only the British > would do that. > > ? > > Hoo Roo > > ? > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > ? > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Richard Pratt > *Sent:* Friday, 11 May 2018 1:09 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 > > ? > > Healey List, > > Has anyone seen this door lock arrangement. Any information would be appreciated. > > Richard > > ? > > ? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun May 13 16:13:34 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 00:13:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? References: <7095e270-4008-f33b-90d0-b2ddc07da738@comcast.net> Not quite, The vent at the top should be directed upwards with the plastic cap installed over the small plastic pipe with the ball valve inside. Other caps, e.g. from an MGB, have a small diameter open ended metal pipe with the ball valve inside. This should have a bit of plastic tubing fitted to it and be connected to a dry place (boot). The same goes for the vent at the bottom of the cast iron coil housing. This vent is nor really important and absent in many pumps. You can seal it without any bad effects. The bottom vent suffices. In addition to that fit a tight rubber band over the seam between coil housing and Bakelite/plastic cap or wrap it up with tape to keep the moisture out. Kees Oudesluijs Op 13-5-2018 om 17:00 schreef Bob Spidell: > True enough about the electronic pumps.? This is what happens when > water gets into the electronics (attached photo).? This pump had about > 50K miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious rain in > Washington state. > > What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check > ball/valve that vents ozone out of the control (electronic) section > needs the plastic cap over over the vent.? I haven't bought a pump in > a while, but IIRC some of them come with a metal 'pipe'--for lack of a > better word--without the plastic cap that helps prevent water from > entering.? Installing the cap--if you can find one--involves pulling > the metal pipe off--be careful you don't lose the small ball bearing > check ball--and installing the plastic cap over it. > > Bob > > > On 5/13/2018 2:56 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps using >> the standard points and adding a transil across the points to limit >> the voltage across the points thus preventing arcing. It also makes >> the pump dual polarity. Keeping the points means that it is possible >> to attend to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. Electronically >> converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic system, are >> supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they sometimes do,? >> that?s it. >> >> It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only necessary to >> clean and polish the points and properly set the point gaps, spring >> blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to cast iron body 2,3mm, some >> say 1,8mm but that is a very early setting. Replacement is easy but >> dismantling the pump is needed. >> >> If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals may >> have corroded. The valves may than need replacement. Dismantle the >> pump, clean and rebuild. The old triple layer diaphragm is nearly >> always in good serviceable condition and preferable to a new single >> layer one. It may feel a bit stif, but this is usually caused by the >> layers being stuck together. Just pry the layers apart very >> carefully, especially the very thin kevlar membrane and apply just a >> smear of talcum powder between the layers. >> >> There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding process. >> >> >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sun May 13 16:41:53 2018 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 22:41:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? References: , <7095e270-4008-f33b-90d0-b2ddc07da738@comcast.net> I doubt the electronic system produces any ozone since that is a product of the spark produced by the contact points. The electronic system induces a much weaker spark. Maybe what you need is a solid cover and some tape for the joint. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2018 3:00:23 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? True enough about the electronic pumps. This is what happens when water gets into the electronics (attached photo). This pump had about 50K miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious rain in Washington state. What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check ball/valve that vents ozone out of the control (electronic) section needs the plastic cap over over the vent. I haven't bought a pump in a while, but IIRC some of them come with a metal 'pipe'--for lack of a better word--without the plastic cap that helps prevent water from entering. Installing the cap--if you can find one--involves pulling the metal pipe off--be careful you don't lose the small ball bearing check ball--and installing the plastic cap over it. Bob On 5/13/2018 2:56 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps using > the standard points and adding a transil across the points to limit > the voltage across the points thus preventing arcing. It also makes > the pump dual polarity. Keeping the points means that it is possible > to attend to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. Electronically > converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic system, are > supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they sometimes do, > that?s it. > > It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only necessary to > clean and polish the points and properly set the point gaps, spring > blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to cast iron body 2,3mm, some > say 1,8mm but that is a very early setting. Replacement is easy but > dismantling the pump is needed. > > If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals may have > corroded. The valves may than need replacement. Dismantle the pump, > clean and rebuild. The old triple layer diaphragm is nearly always in > good serviceable condition and preferable to a new single layer one. > It may feel a bit stif, but this is usually caused by the layers being > stuck together. Just pry the layers apart very carefully, especially > the very thin kevlar membrane and apply just a smear of talcum powder > between the layers. > > There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding process. > > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 13 19:29:52 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 18:29:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? References: <7095e270-4008-f33b-90d0-b2ddc07da738@comcast.net> Yeah, I guess I wasn't clear.? I've always assumed the end cap with a vent was a holdover from the points design; IIRC I've bought a SS pump and it still had the vent.? I don't think the electronic ones produce a spark at all; Dave DuBois uses an optical trigger which, of course, should not produce a spark. Begs the question, where does the voltage produced from the collapsing coil field go? What surprised me was the corrosion was over almost all the surfaces, not just the metal ones.?? Has to be some serious electrolysis going on. On 5/13/2018 3:41 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > I doubt the electronic system produces any ozone?since that is a > product of the spark produced by the ?contact points. The electronic > system induces a much weaker spark. > > > Maybe what you need is a solid cover and some tape for the joint. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Sunday, May 13, 2018 3:00:23 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? > True enough about the electronic pumps.? This is what happens when water > gets into the electronics (attached photo).? This pump had about 50K > miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious rain in > Washington state. > > What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check ball/valve > that vents ozone out of the control (electronic) section needs the > plastic cap over over the vent.? I haven't bought a pump in a while, but > IIRC some of them come with a metal 'pipe'--for lack of a better > word--without the plastic cap that helps prevent water from entering. > Installing the cap--if you can find one--involves pulling the metal pipe > off--be careful you don't lose the small ball bearing check ball--and > installing the plastic cap over it. > > Bob > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 13 21:13:16 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 11:13:16 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 door glass References: <92C2D71D-B623-4043-A610-FAAB2B4B00E2@comcast.net> <2678da5f-0d07-f866-9d0b-93f8fc888ffb@comcast.net> Make sure the rear channel in the door is not loose. If it is loose your window will eventually shatter. On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 11:11 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Regarding the screws: https://mossmotors.com/media/ > instructions/314-251.pdf > > On 5/13/2018 5:57 AM, HealeyRick wrote: > > You probably need new nylon guides, available from Moss. Take it apart, > clean and lubricate and check for smooth up and down. If it jams, check > that the channels aren't kinked. Make sure the screws holding the chrome > grab handle aren't too long or you'll scratch the windows. > > Rick Neville > > On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 7:48 AM Mitch Simmons > wrote: > >> >> Hello >> I am about to fix my BJ8 roll up door windows....they are loose and hard >> to roll up. >> Any advice on this operation would be greatly appreciated as always >> Cheers >> Mitchell >> Sent from my iPhone > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun May 13 21:14:14 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 11:14:14 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild SU Fuel pumps? References: <36FDCE94-E86C-4E28-AF89-6F3452269BA2@yahoo.com> <20180512042150.Z3LD7.68742.root@cdptpa-web25> Dave does a beautiful job, and the electronics are more robust than the SU conversion. On Sat, May 12, 2018 at 12:21 PM, wrote: > Dave Dubois http://userwebs.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ there is contact > information as well as technical on the page. > > Greg Lemon > > ---- Greg Mandas wrote: > > Apologies to all, yes of course SU fuel pumps. > > Greg > > Sent from my iPad > > > On May 11, 2018, at 1:23 PM, Roland Wilhelmy > wrote: > > > > > > > > Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. > > Original Message > > From: Greg Mandas > > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2018 9:55 AM > > To: healeylist > > Subject: [Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps? > > They are SU fuel pumps. A google search of SU fuel pumps rebuilding > should get you started. A lot of folks do it themselves. > > -Roland? > > > > > > Greg > > > > Sent from my iPad > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/glemon at neb.rr.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon May 14 05:21:42 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 07:21:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 From: Bob Spidell Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 Date: May 13, 2018 at 11:06:49 AM EDT To: healeys at autox.team.net "... car that was created by Fourintune out of two junked BJ8s and they put a BJ7 VIN plate on it and sold it to someone in New York state" Hmmm ... Am I the only one who thinks this was a bit shady? Bob -------------------------------------- >From my first post about the subject, in my effort to be brief it has been suggested to me that I was slandering Fourintune. This was not my intention, so I think I need to provide some additional details and correct the statement about the BJ7 VIN plate. In about 1988, Fourintune did build a single BJ8 from two wrecked cars (as told to me by the owner of that car). Since I have a photo of the car with a Wisconsin license plate, I assume that Fourintune registered the car in Wisconsin, but if so I do not know the VIN used. Fourintune sold the car to someone in New York state. He was apparently fully aware of the origin of the car because he told me about it and provided photos of the scrapped vehicles, but he did not pay much attention to its VIN and was not aware of a discrepancy until I told him about it when I saw the car at Watkins Glen in 2000. The VIN plate on the firewall read HBJ8L/23397 (photo attached) -- a BJ8 prefix but a BJ7 chassis number (not a BJ7 plate as I previously stated). The plate is also the very late BJ8 style with rounded ends, instead of the typical rectangular plate. There was no body plate nor engine serial number. There is no evidence or reason to say, nor was I trying to do so, that Fourintune was engaging in deceptive or unethical activity by creating one car from two, nor in creating a VIN plate that had two obvious clues to the fact that it was not original factory issue, would not duplicate the VIN on any other BJ7 or BJ8, and they did not conceal the true origin of the car from its next owner when they sold it. The New York owner later moved to North Carolina and when he applied for a title here the DMV inspector noticed there was a discrepancy between the number on the plate and the number on the NY title (which read HBJ7L23397). Why the NY title has a valid BJ7 VIN on it is not known, but was probably a simple mistake (or it may have been a mistake on the WI title). Because of this discrepancy, the owner was required to obtain a surety bond for 1-1/2 times the value of the car for a period of three years. The NC DMV attached a new plate to the firewall with their own number, NCS89924, and that is the number that the car is now registered with. There is a lesson to be learned here. VINs are important. There are a LOT of cars out there that have had identity plates recreated or exchanged with other cars. As BJ8 Registrar for almost 20 years now, I can tell you several other stories of grief owners have had in trying to register cars when the paperwork and VINs did not agree. Are you sure that the plates on your car are original factory-issue and belong to it? Is the VIN correct on the title and other paperwork? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DMV (page 29).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 609788 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Tomfelts at windstream.net Mon May 14 05:36:17 2018 From: Tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 07:36:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 door glass References: <92C2D71D-B623-4043-A610-FAAB2B4B00E2@comcast.net> <2678da5f-0d07-f866-9d0b-93f8fc888ffb@comcast.net> also------make sure the "docking" rubber at the bottom of the door is intact and not worn out. If the window doesn't rest firmly against that when down, the window will rattle.tom ----- Original Message ----- From: Alan Seigrist To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healey list Sent: Sun, 13 May 2018 23:13:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bj8 door glass Make sure the rear channel in the door is not loose. If it is loose your window will eventually shatter. On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 11:11 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Regarding the screws: https://mossmotors.com/media/instructions/314-251.pdf On 5/13/2018 5:57 AM, HealeyRick wrote: You probably need new nylon guides, available from Moss. Take it apart, clean and lubricate and check for smooth up and down. If it jams, check that the channels aren't kinked. Make sure the screws holding the chrome grab handle aren't too long or you'll scratch the windows. Rick Neville On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 7:48 AM Mitch Simmons wrote: Hello I am about to fix my BJ8 roll up door windows....they are loose and hard to roll up. Any advice on this operation would be greatly appreciated as always Cheers Mitchell Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon May 14 07:42:03 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 06:42:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <022201d3eb75$c347f410$49d7dc30$@rr.com> Also in the 70s and 80s a number of shops were just trying to salvage wrecks and get cars back on the road. You could buy a running car for $500-1500. They were just cool old cars of not much value. No intent of deception, just working to save what we could. Fast forward 40 years and 40 times the value and some of these cars are now an issue as plates don't match the car... If I had known then, I would have bought as many cars as I could. I guess I did, I bought one :) I've owned my car for 42 years and paid $500.00 for it. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Mon, May 14, 2018, 5:04 AM BJ8Healeys wrote: > *From: *Bob Spidell > > *Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8* > > *Date: *May 13, 2018 at 11:06:49 AM EDT > > *To: *healeys at autox.team.net > > > > "... car that was created by Fourintune out of two junked BJ8s and they > put a BJ7 VIN plate on it and sold it to someone in New York state" > > Hmmm ... Am I the only one who thinks this was a bit shady? > > Bob > > -------------------------------------- > > From my first post about the subject, in my effort to be brief it has been > suggested to me that I was slandering Fourintune. This was not my > intention, so I think I need to provide some additional details and correct > the statement about the BJ7 VIN plate. > > In about 1988, Fourintune did build a single BJ8 from two wrecked cars (as > told to me by the owner of that car). Since I have a photo of the car with > a Wisconsin license plate, I assume that Fourintune registered the car in > Wisconsin, but if so I do not know the VIN used. Fourintune sold the car > to someone in New York state. He was apparently fully aware of the origin > of the car because he told me about it and provided photos of the scrapped > vehicles, but he did not pay much attention to its VIN and was not aware of > a discrepancy until I told him about it when I saw the car at Watkins Glen > in 2000. The VIN plate on the firewall read HBJ8L/23397 (photo attached) > -- a BJ8 prefix but a BJ7 chassis number (not a BJ7 plate as I previously > stated). The plate is also the very late BJ8 style with rounded ends, > instead of the typical rectangular plate. There was no body plate nor > engine serial number. > There is no evidence or reason to say, nor was I trying to do so, that > Fourintune was engaging in deceptive or unethical activity by creating one > car from two, nor in creating a VIN plate that had two obvious clues to the > fact that it was not original factory issue, would not duplicate the VIN on > any other BJ7 or BJ8, and they did not conceal the true origin of the car > from its next owner when they sold it. > > The New York owner later moved to North Carolina and when he applied for a > title here the DMV inspector noticed there was a discrepancy between the > number on the plate and the number on the NY title (which read HBJ7L23397). > Why the NY title has a valid BJ7 VIN on it is not known, but was probably > a simple mistake (or it may have been a mistake on the WI title). Because > of this discrepancy, the owner was required to obtain a surety bond for > 1-1/2 times the value of the car for a period of three years. The NC DMV > attached a new plate to the firewall with their own number, NCS89924, and > that is the number that the car is now registered with. > > There is a lesson to be learned here. VINs are important. There are a > LOT of cars out there that have had identity plates recreated or exchanged > with other cars. As BJ8 Registrar for almost 20 years now, I can tell you > several other stories of grief owners have had in trying to register cars > when the paperwork and VINs did not agree. Are you sure that the plates on > your car are original factory-issue and belong to it? Is the VIN correct on > the title and other paperwork? > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sebring3000 at bigpond.com Mon May 14 07:55:29 2018 From: sebring3000 at bigpond.com (sebring3000 sebring3000) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 23:55:29 +1000 (AEST) Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 References: <1e81812b.1b08f6.16357744eff.Webtop.86@bigpond.com> <1A43CE27-6CF2-42D8-ADC9-73973262B19F@att.net> Thanks Dick It seems not too many people understood the RH locking mechanism. When I think about it and having played with the locks off the car there is a detent position on all those locks. I have seen very similar locks on the big Austin sedans of the day ------ Original Message ------ From: "Dick Helms" To: "sebring3000 sebring3000" Sent: Monday, 14 May, 2018 At 4:14 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 On my BN4-L-O-55257 ?January 1958, early Abington production. Locks from the inside by pushing the handle forward. Richard image1.JPG Sent from my iPad On May 12, 2018, at 10:03 PM, sebring3000 sebring3000 ? ? My memory of my RH drive BN.4 with LH door lock was that the RH door could be locked from the inside by turning the inside handle to the foward position thus making it unopenable from outside. I was offered an extra $100 by the Australian Touring Car Champion when I was looking to trade my first BN.4 in a Geoghans Sports Car yard because the LH door was locked! ?Also I replaced both door lock assemblies with new MG TF locks ( the only ones available back in 1970 ) and fitted the LH MG lock to the RH Healeey door. Common door lock for UK cars supplied to BMC by a sub-contractor. Joe ------ Original Message ------ Sent: Friday, 11 May, 2018 At 1:09 AM Subject: [Healeys] FW: Door lock 58 100-6 Healey List, Has anyone seen this door lock arrangement. Any information would be appreciated. Richard ? ? ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys sebring3000 at bigpond.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sebring3000 at bigpond.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys " target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rthelms01 at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 81447 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sebring3000 at bigpond.com Mon May 14 08:05:25 2018 From: sebring3000 at bigpond.com (sebring3000 sebring3000) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 00:05:25 +1000 (AEST) Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <000001d3ea4c$a43b9a60$ecb2cf20$@eastlink.ca> <017501d3eab5$27c10e20$77432a60$@rr.com> <39fd7385-f054-88a9-901d-454b428a4c72@comcast.net> Is this the car I saw on a facebook site? ?My memory is that it has a Healey 100 windscreen frame and no door locks!!!!!!!! Me thinks this is a made up car or the result of some owners off-beat style. Joe who drives a BJ.8 with no console and a flat alloy dash with sidescreens. ?Drop down chassis but single turn indicators. ------ Original Message ------ From: "Bob Spidell" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, 14 May, 2018 At 1:06 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 ? ? "... car that was created by ? ? ? ? Fourintune out of two junked BJ8s and they put a BJ7 VIN plate ? ? ? ? on it and sold it to someone in New York state" ? ? Hmmm ... Am I the only one who thinks ? ? ? ? this was a bit shady? ? ? Bob ? ? ? ? ? ? ? On 5/13/2018 5:23 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Brian, I have ? ? ? ? ? ? seen a car recently that was advertised for sale by Beverly ? ? ? ? ? ? Hills Car Club as a BJ7.? It had a wood dash, BJ8 "short ? ? ? ? ? ? tail" center console (but no armrest), BJ8 front seats and ? ? ? ? ? ? door panels, BJ7 rear seat upholstery and BJ7 backrest.? The ? ? ? ? ? ? external features were either BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8.? The car ? ? ? ? ? ? had a BJ7 VIN.? It was not possible to determine whether the ? ? ? ? ? ? car began life as a BJ7 or Phase 1 BJ8. ? ? ? ? I am aware of ? ? ? ? ? ? one other car that was created by Fourintune out of two ? ? ? ? ? ? junked BJ8s and they put a BJ7 VIN plate on it and sold it ? ? ? ? ? ? to someone in New York state.? This car later came to North ? ? ? ? ? ? Carolina and was sold after the bond period expired.? The ? ? ? ? ? ? new owner had some problems registering the car with the NY ? ? ? ? ? ? BJ7 number because of the discrepancies. ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Steve Byers ? ? ? ? ? HBJ8L/36666 ? ? ? ? ? BJ8 Registry ? ? ? ? ? AHCA Delegate at Large ? ? ? ? ? Havelock, NC? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys sebring3000 at bigpond.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sebring3000 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Mon May 14 08:58:34 2018 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 14:58:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 door glass References: <92C2D71D-B623-4043-A610-FAAB2B4B00E2@comcast.net> <2678da5f-0d07-f866-9d0b-93f8fc888ffb@comcast.net> <286784817.59495512.1526297777357.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> I would emphasize Rick's point about the pull handle screws ... use as short screws as possible and grind the pointed end to a round end to prevent the possibility of it breaking the glass. Secondly be sure to carefilly clean the outer and inner wipes of any grit to avoid scratches. M On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 2:47 PM +0200, "Tom Felts" wrote: also------make sure the "docking" rubber at the bottom of the door is intact and not worn out.? If the window doesn't rest firmly against that when down, the window will rattle. tom ----- Original Message ----- From: Alan Seigrist To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healey list Sent: Sun, 13 May 2018 23:13:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bj8 door glass Make sure the rear channel in the door is not loose.? If it is loose your window will eventually shatter. On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 11:11 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Regarding the screws: https://mossmotors.com/media/instructions/314-251.pdf On 5/13/2018 5:57 AM, HealeyRick wrote: You probably need new nylon guides, available from Moss.? Take it apart, clean and lubricate and check for smooth up and down.? If it jams, check that the channels aren't kinked.? Make sure the screws holding the chrome grab handle aren't too long or you'll scratch the windows. Rick Neville On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 7:48 AM Mitch Simmons wrote: Hello I am about to fix my BJ8 roll up door windows....they are loose and hard to roll up. Any advice on this operation would be greatly appreciated as always Cheers Mitchell Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 14 10:08:27 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 09:08:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <022201d3eb75$c347f410$49d7dc30$@rr.com> My comment was poorly worded as well.? I didn't mean to disparage Fourintune--about which I've heard and read nothing but great things--but was thinking 'anyone that WOULD do this is shady.' Bob On 5/14/2018 6:42 AM, i erbs wrote: > Also in the 70s and 80s a number of shops were just trying to salvage > wrecks and get cars back on the road. You could buy a running car for > $500-1500. They were just cool old cars of not much value. No intent > of deception, just working to save what we could. Fast forward 40 > years and 40 times the value and some of these cars are now an issue > as plates don't match the car... > If I had known then, I would have bought as many cars as I could. I > guess I did, I bought one :) > I've owned my car for 42 years and paid $500.00?for it. > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Mon, May 14, 2018, 5:04 AM BJ8Healeys > *From: *Bob Spidell > *Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8* > > *Date: *May 13, 2018 at 11:06:49 AM EDT > > > "...car that was created by Fourintune out of two junked BJ8s and > they put a BJ7 VIN plate on it and sold it to someone in New York > state" > > Hmmm ... Am I the only one who thinks this was a bit shady? > > Bob > > -------------------------------------- > > From my first post about the subject, in my effort to be brief it > has been suggested to me that I was slandering Fourintune. This > was not my intention, so I think I need to provide some additional > details and correct the statement about the BJ7 VIN plate. > > In about 1988, Fourintune did build a single BJ8 from two wrecked > cars (as told to me by the owner of that car).? Since I have a > photo of the car with a Wisconsin license plate, I assume that > Fourintune registered the car in Wisconsin, but if so I do not > know the VIN used.? Fourintune sold the car to someone in New York > state.? He was apparently fully aware of the origin of the car > because he told me about it and provided photos of the scrapped > vehicles, but he did not pay much attention to its VIN and was not > aware of a discrepancy until I told him about it when I saw the > car at Watkins Glen in 2000.? The VIN plate on the firewall read > HBJ8L/23397 (photo attached) -- a BJ8 prefix but a BJ7 chassis > number (not a BJ7 plate as I previously stated).? The plate is > also the very late BJ8 style with rounded ends, instead of the > typical rectangular plate.? There was no body plate nor engine > serial number. > There is no evidence or reason to say, nor was I trying to do so, > that Fourintune was engaging in deceptive or unethical activity by > creating one car from two, nor in creating a VIN plate that had > two obvious clues to the fact that it was not original factory > issue, would not duplicate the VIN on any other BJ7 or BJ8, and > they did not conceal the true origin of the car from its next > owner when they sold it. > > The New York owner later moved to North Carolina and when he > applied for a title here the DMV inspector noticed there was a > discrepancy between the number on the plate and the number on the > NY title (which read HBJ7L23397).? ?Why the NY title has a valid > BJ7 VIN on it is not known, but was probably a simple mistake (or > it may have been a mistake on the WI title).? Because of this > discrepancy, the owner was required to obtain a surety bond for > 1-1/2 times the value of the car for a period of three years.? The > NC DMV attached a new plate to the firewall with their own number, > NCS89924, and that is the number that the car is now registered with. > > There is a lesson to be learned here.? VINs are important.? There > are a LOT of cars out there that have had identity plates > recreated or exchanged with other cars.? As BJ8 Registrar for > almost 20 years now, I can tell you several other stories of grief > owners have had in trying to register cars when the paperwork and > VINs did not agree.? Are you sure that the plates on your car are > original factory-issue and belong to it? Is the VIN correct on the > title and other paperwork? > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Mon May 14 10:19:49 2018 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 16:19:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows References: <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237.ref@mail.yahoo.com> While we're on the subject of windows, I put my windows in very carefully- no danger of the screw damage to the glass, they roll up and down nicely and don't rattle...however- when rolled up, at the rear of the top of the window there is an annoying gap. I saw more than one BJ8 with the same problem in the rain at Goodwood two years ago, so I know I'm not alone. I've been thinking of opening up the door and adjusting the back track towards the car to try and address this, but hope that I don't open another can of worms.Has anyone cured this problem by doing this?Might it be that the new glass doesn't have the same curve? Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Mon May 14 13:02:46 2018 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 15:02:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <022201d3eb75$c347f410$49d7dc30$@rr.com> Hi Ira: I bought my 67- BJ8 in 1979 and paid the owner $3200.00 because I knew her and the car. They had bought it new, It was not perfect as they had driven it for 8 of the 10 years. Her ex-husband took better car of the Healey than her! I cleaned it up, gave it a tune up, new Michelin tires and drove it for 20 years until I had a frame on restoration. The engine still was in great running condition when I rebuilt it last year. I think my purchase was a great value. I agree with you that cars in poor condition at that time were going for a few hundred dollars, especially in from recent college grads or others who drove the into the ground and never learned how to take care of them or any other car. I should have bought a TR3 in the 80-90?s because their value stayed low for years and the they were discovered. Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon May 14 13:29:04 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 12:29:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 or BJ8 References: <022201d3eb75$c347f410$49d7dc30$@rr.com> <020501d3ebb6$263948e0$72abdaa0$@gmail.com> I was looking for a TR3 when I found my Healey. Would still like to own one. Not going to happen any time in the near future. Still trying to fond time to work on a 67 MGB I bought last year. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 12:02 PM, Robert Begani wrote: > Hi Ira: > > > > I bought my 67- BJ8 in 1979 and paid the owner $3200.00 because I knew her > and the car. They had bought it new, It was not perfect as they had driven > it for 8 of the 10 years. Her ex-husband took better car of the Healey > than her! I cleaned it up, gave it a tune up, new Michelin tires and > drove it for 20 years until I had a frame on restoration. The engine still > was in great running condition when I rebuilt it last year. I think my > purchase was a great value. I agree with you that cars in poor condition > at that time were going for a few hundred dollars, especially in from > recent college grads or others who drove the into the ground and never > learned how to take care of them or any other car. I should have bought a > TR3 in the 80-90?s because their value stayed low for years and the they > were discovered. > > > > Bob Begani > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 14 15:16:47 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 23:16:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows References: <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237@mail.yahoo.com> Ever heard of a British roadster/convertible being rain proof, even with a hardtop? Does not exist!! Why is beond me, the sunny Italians can make rainproof sports cars, without the need to really, but in the wet UK they can?t manage, odd. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-5-2018 om 18:19 schreef Stephen Hutchings: > While we're on the subject of windows, I put my windows in very > carefully- no danger of the screw damage to the glass, they roll up > and down nicely and don't rattle...however- when rolled up, at the > rear of the top of the window there is an annoying gap. I saw more > than one BJ8 with the same problem in the rain at Goodwood two years > ago, so I know I'm not alone. > > I've been thinking of opening up the door and adjusting the back track > towards the car to try and address this, but hope that I don't open > another can of worms. > Has anyone cured this problem by doing this? > Might it be that the new glass doesn't have the same curve? > > Stephen, BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Mon May 14 19:40:10 2018 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 21:40:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows References: <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237@mail.yahoo.com> <50c58275-055f-e43a-70c4-60b716c63676@chello.nl> Actually, Steve Byers claims that his top doesn?t leak...I remember this because he?s the only one to say that to me! I still think I can do better with these windows though. Stephen, BJ8 Sent from my iPad > On May 14, 2018, at 5:16 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > Ever heard of a British roadster/convertible being rain proof, even with a hardtop? Does not exist!! > > Why is beond me, the sunny Italians can make rainproof sports cars, without the need to really, but in the wet UK they can?t manage, odd. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > Op 14-5-2018 om 18:19 schreef Stephen Hutchings: >> While we're on the subject of windows, I put my windows in very carefully- no danger of the screw damage to the glass, they roll up and down nicely and don't rattle...however- when rolled up, at the rear of the top of the window there is an annoying gap. I saw more than one BJ8 with the same problem in the rain at Goodwood two years ago, so I know I'm not alone. >> >> I've been thinking of opening up the door and adjusting the back track towards the car to try and address this, but hope that I don't open another can of worms. >> Has anyone cured this problem by doing this? >> Might it be that the new glass doesn't have the same curve? >> >> Stephen, BJ8 >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon May 14 20:08:58 2018 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 22:08:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows References: <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237@mail.yahoo.com> Stephen, I have the same problem with the driver's door on my BJ7, but not on the passenger's door. I've tried adjusting the channels, to no avail. I do have new windows on both sides. If someone has a solution, other than stuffing towels in the gap, I'd love to hear it, too. Rick Neville On Mon, May 14, 2018 at 5:25 PM Stephen Hutchings wrote: > While we're on the subject of windows, I put my windows in very carefully- > no danger of the screw damage to the glass, they roll up and down nicely > and don't rattle...however- when rolled up, at the rear of the top of the > window there is an annoying gap. I saw more than one BJ8 with the same > problem in the rain at Goodwood two years ago, so I know I'm not alone. > > I've been thinking of opening up the door and adjusting the back track > towards the car to try and address this, but hope that I don't open another > can of worms. > Has anyone cured this problem by doing this? > Might it be that the new glass doesn't have the same curve? > > Stephen, BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon May 14 23:12:41 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 14 May 2018 22:12:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps So... wise ones (and I mean that sincerely) My current battery is an Intimidator rated at 775. Bob S. mentioned in a post about a minimum of 500. How many CCA's should a battery have for a Healey engine? TIA John Spaur San Jose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 15 01:34:01 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 09:34:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows References: <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237@mail.yahoo.com> <50c58275-055f-e43a-70c4-60b716c63676@chello.nl> <41120B5F-1707-49AA-ADE1-3FAA13F96281@rogers.com> May be he only drives it when the sun is out. Kees Oudesluijs Op 15-5-2018 om 03:40 schreef s.hutchings at rogers.com: > Actually, Steve Byers claims that his top doesn?t leak...I remember > this because he?s the only one to say that to me! > > I still think I can do better with these windows though. > > Stephen, BJ8 > > Sent from my iPad > > On May 14, 2018, at 5:16 PM, Kees Oudesluijs >> Ever heard of a British roadster/convertible being rain proof, even >> with a hardtop? Does not exist!! >> >> Why is beond me, the sunny Italians can make rainproof sports cars, >> without the need to really, but in the wet UK they can?t manage, odd. >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> >> >> Op 14-5-2018 om 18:19 schreef Stephen Hutchings: >>> While we're on the subject of windows, I put my windows in very >>> carefully- no danger of the screw damage to the glass, they roll up >>> and down nicely and don't rattle...however- when rolled up, at the >>> rear of the top of the window there is an annoying gap. I saw more >>> than one BJ8 with the same problem in the rain at Goodwood two years >>> ago, so I know I'm not alone. >>> >>> I've been thinking of opening up the door and adjusting the back >>> track towards the car to try and address this, but hope that I don't >>> open another can of worms. >>> Has anyone cured this problem by doing this? >>> Might it be that the new glass doesn't have the same curve? >>> >>> Stephen, BJ8 >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> SupportTeam.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 15 03:05:26 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 09:05:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Tank References: <92667556.1334308.1526375126086.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Forgive me, but when I acquired my BN2 it was an empty body shell and frame with a rather tatty suspension system.? Putting this car back together is something of a jigsaw puzzle with all the pieces blank.? Somehow it all fits together, but it is slow going sometimes.? I am trying to install the fuel tank in the boot.? The rubber seal for the rectangular hole is forward in the boot so the tank sits on it, but the rear of the tank is not supported and falls to the boot floor.? Am I missing something?? I don't find any type of support rubber or block that lifts the tank level in any catalog.? The rubber seal for the rectangular hole which is around 3/4 inch thick is all that is listed.? Are the tank straps supposed to crush the rubber enough to bring the tank down level with the floor.? Seems to me the tank should not just sit flat on the floor in the rear with metal to metal contact. Can someone clue me in here?Mike MacLean? Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue May 15 07:57:27 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 21:57:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Tank References: <92667556.1334308.1526375126086.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <92667556.1334308.1526375126086@mail.yahoo.com> Mike - Yep, tank sits flat on the floor. Actually best if you don't seal the hole on the bottom so that water can flow out and evaporate, either that or seal it fully with silicone. You can put silicone foam strips underneath if you like, but you don't want to isolate the tank too much otherwise the fuel guage won't work. Best, Alan On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 5:05 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Forgive me, but when I acquired my BN2 it was an empty body shell and > frame with a rather tatty suspension system. Putting this car back > together is something of a jigsaw puzzle with all the pieces blank. > Somehow it all fits together, but it is slow going sometimes. I am trying > to install the fuel tank in the boot. The rubber seal for the rectangular > hole is forward in the boot so the tank sits on it, but the rear of the > tank is not supported and falls to the boot floor. Am I missing > something? I don't find any type of support rubber or block that lifts the > tank level in any catalog. The rubber seal for the rectangular hole which > is around 3/4 inch thick is all that is listed. Are the tank straps > supposed to crush the rubber enough to bring the tank down level with the > floor. Seems to me the tank should not just sit flat on the floor in the > rear with metal to metal contact. Can someone clue me in here? > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 15 08:30:12 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 07:30:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps References: <000001d3ec0b$5a9a66a0$0fcf33e0$@sbcglobal.net> There's several variables to consider: - Later 6-cyl cars have the battery in the boot.? That's a long cable run to the starter solenoid; the cables and terminals need to be in good nick. - Ditto the starter.? The field coils in starters build up resistance over time and, eventually, the starter won't crank as well, putting even more load on the battery.? After a couple cranks, the field coils get warm and the resistance builds up and, of course, the battery's reserve gets depleted. - The higher the compression in your engine, the harder it is to turn over. - Thicker oil, like 20W-50 can bog an engine down a bit. The more CCA you have, the more margin to start an engine, esp. on a cold day (that's why CCA is the nominal stat for batteries). My Healeys are harder to start after they've been sitting for more than a few days.? The 500CCA number I gave was a SWAG; I haven't seen any full-size auto battery with less than that anyway.? We got a battery for my dad's '65 Mustang 289 with 550CCA from Autozone; Costco didn't sell the size we needed.? It cranks the V8 OK. FWIW, when I rebuilt my BJ8's engine the (previously) satisfactory wet cell battery I had wouldn't even turn the engine over (later compression checks showed 180PSI +/- in all 6).? I had the starter rebuilt and installed an 800CCA AGM battery.? The starter actually startled me the first time I cranked it; it's nearly as fast as the geared starter in my Mustang. TLDR; The more the better. Bob On 5/14/2018 10:12 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > So... wise ones (and I mean that sincerely) > > My current battery is an Intimidator rated at 775. Bob S. mentioned in > a post about a minimum of 500. > > How many CCA?s should a battery have for a Healey engine? > > TIA > > John Spaur > > San Jose > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 15 08:39:30 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 07:39:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Tank References: <92667556.1334308.1526375126086.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <92667556.1334308.1526375126086@mail.yahoo.com> Get some reinforced rubber stock--places like Orchard Supply (maybe Lowe's, HD, etc.) sell it--and put a couple strips front to back to level the tank and keep it off the boot pan. BTW, if the tank hold-down straps have evenly-spaced holes they're for copper rivets to hold a thick canvas-like padding. You don't want the straps rubbing against the tank either (substitute rubber if you like). Bob On 5/15/2018 2:05 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Forgive me, but when I acquired my BN2 it was an empty body shell and > frame with a rather tatty suspension system.? Putting this car back > together is something of a jigsaw puzzle with all the pieces blank.? > Somehow it all fits together, but it is slow going sometimes.? I am > trying to install the fuel tank in the boot.? The rubber seal for the > rectangular hole is forward in the boot so the tank sits on it, but > the rear of the tank is not supported and falls to the boot floor.? Am > I missing something?? I don't find any type of support rubber or block > that lifts the tank level in any catalog.? The rubber seal for the > rectangular hole which is around 3/4 inch thick is all that is > listed.? Are the tank straps supposed to crush the rubber enough to > bring the tank down level with the floor.? Seems to me the tank should > not just sit flat on the floor in the rear with metal to metal > contact. Can someone clue me in here? > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue May 15 11:47:49 2018 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 10:47:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part I have some sleeve bushings I'm trying to identify. They are 1" long, 3/4" ID, Glacier, part #1B 1490 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Tue May 15 15:15:22 2018 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Wed, 16 May 2018 07:15:22 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps References: <000001d3ec0b$5a9a66a0$0fcf33e0$@sbcglobal.net> John, As many as you can get with those old starter motors. Won't do any harm . 775CCas is good John Rowe Qld Aust From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: Tuesday, 15 May 2018 3:13 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps So... wise ones (and I mean that sincerely) My current battery is an Intimidator rated at 775. Bob S. mentioned in a post about a minimum of 500. How many CCA's should a battery have for a Healey engine? TIA John Spaur San Jose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ggilliam at usol.com Tue May 15 13:06:25 2018 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 15:06:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps References: <000001d3ec0b$5a9a66a0$0fcf33e0$@sbcglobal.net> Bob. Another item you didn't consider are the contacts in the battery disconnect switch. I know with mine I have to sometimes fiddle around with it to make good enough contact to run the starter well. Don't know if the current available replacements are satisfactory. Regards, Gordy Longbridge BN4, with left side door lock On 2018-05-15 10:30, Bob Spidell wrote: > There's several variables to consider: > > - Later 6-cyl cars have the battery in the boot. That's a long cable run to the starter solenoid; the cables and terminals need to be in good nick. > > - Ditto the starter. The field coils in starters build up resistance over time and, eventually, the starter won't crank as well, putting even more load on the battery. After a couple cranks, the field coils get warm and the resistance builds up and, of course, the battery's reserve gets depleted. > > - The higher the compression in your engine, the harder it is to turn over. > > - Thicker oil, like 20W-50 can bog an engine down a bit. > > The more CCA you have, the more margin to start an engine, esp. on a cold day (that's why CCA is the nominal stat for batteries). My Healeys are harder to start after they've been sitting for more than a few days. The 500CCA number I gave was a SWAG; I haven't seen any full-size auto battery with less than that anyway. We got a battery for my dad's '65 Mustang 289 with 550CCA from Autozone; Costco didn't sell the size we needed. It cranks the V8 OK. > > FWIW, when I rebuilt my BJ8's engine the (previously) satisfactory wet cell battery I had wouldn't even turn the engine over (later compression checks showed 180PSI +/- in all 6). I had the starter rebuilt and installed an 800CCA AGM battery. The starter actually startled me the first time I cranked it; it's nearly as fast as the geared starter in my Mustang. > > TLDR; The more the better. > > Bob > > On 5/14/2018 10:12 PM, John Spaur wrote: > >> So... wise ones (and I mean that sincerely) >> >> My current battery is an Intimidator rated at 775. Bob S. mentioned in a post about a minimum of 500. >> >> How many CCA's should a battery have for a Healey engine? >> >> TIA >> >> John Spaur >> >> San Jose > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ggilliam at usol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 15 18:26:35 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 17:26:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps References: <000001d3ec0b$5a9a66a0$0fcf33e0$@sbcglobal.net> This related to portable jump starters and not batteries per se. I should have been more clear. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 7:30 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps There's several variables to consider: - Later 6-cyl cars have the battery in the boot. That's a long cable run to the starter solenoid; the cables and terminals need to be in good nick. - Ditto the starter. The field coils in starters build up resistance over time and, eventually, the starter won't crank as well, putting even more load on the battery. After a couple cranks, the field coils get warm and the resistance builds up and, of course, the battery's reserve gets depleted. - The higher the compression in your engine, the harder it is to turn over. - Thicker oil, like 20W-50 can bog an engine down a bit. The more CCA you have, the more margin to start an engine, esp. on a cold day (that's why CCA is the nominal stat for batteries). My Healeys are harder to start after they've been sitting for more than a few days. The 500CCA number I gave was a SWAG; I haven't seen any full-size auto battery with less than that anyway. We got a battery for my dad's '65 Mustang 289 with 550CCA from Autozone; Costco didn't sell the size we needed. It cranks the V8 OK. FWIW, when I rebuilt my BJ8's engine the (previously) satisfactory wet cell battery I had wouldn't even turn the engine over (later compression checks showed 180PSI +/- in all 6). I had the starter rebuilt and installed an 800CCA AGM battery. The starter actually startled me the first time I cranked it; it's nearly as fast as the geared starter in my Mustang. TLDR; The more the better. Bob On 5/14/2018 10:12 PM, John Spaur wrote: So... wise ones (and I mean that sincerely) My current battery is an Intimidator rated at 775. Bob S. mentioned in a post about a minimum of 500. How many CCA's should a battery have for a Healey engine? TIA John Spaur San Jose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 15 18:26:35 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 17:26:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps References: <000001d3ec0b$5a9a66a0$0fcf33e0$@sbcglobal.net> <005401d3ec91$d6780800$83681800$@com.au> This related to portable jump starters and not batteries per se. I should have been more clear. From: John Rowe [mailto:john at jtkarowe.com.au] Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 2:15 PM To: 'John Spaur' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps John, As many as you can get with those old starter motors. Won't do any harm 775CCas is good John Rowe Qld Aust From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: Tuesday, 15 May 2018 3:13 PM Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps So... wise ones (and I mean that sincerely) My current battery is an Intimidator rated at 775. Bob S. mentioned in a post about a minimum of 500. How many CCA's should a battery have for a Healey engine? TIA John Spaur San Jose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue May 15 14:28:56 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 16:28:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows References: <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237@mail.yahoo.com> <50c58275-055f-e43a-70c4-60b716c63676@chello.nl> <41120B5F-1707-49AA-ADE1-3FAA13F96281@rogers.com> My original top did leak. Not to toot my own hooter, but after I installed a new Moss top myself, it didn't leak and still doesn't after 18 years. But when I'm driving in heavy rain, I do sometimes have a leak appear UNDER the dash pad. My side windows also have the gap with the top. When I'm driving in rain, it doesn't leak there. On only one occasion did my driver's seat and floor get wet while parked at a hotel during a hard rain overnight, but I think rain was blowing sideways into that gap with the top. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of s.hutchings at rogers.com Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 9:40 PM To: Kees Oudesluijs Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows Actually, Steve Byers claims that his top doesn?t leak...I remember this because he?s the only one to say that to me! I still think I can do better with these windows though. Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Tue May 15 21:37:43 2018 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Tue, 15 May 2018 19:37:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Help_-_steering_still_binds_no_matter_ho?= =?iso-8859-1?q?w_loose_adjustment_-_Resolution?= Followup - it turned out to be the DW peg. It refused to seat all the way in the rocker shaft. The top of the shaft was scraping the inside of the lid. When I removed it and reinstalled a stock peg, the binding resolved itself and now the steering operates normally. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 16 02:21:29 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 16 May 2018 10:21:29 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows References: <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237@mail.yahoo.com> <50c58275-055f-e43a-70c4-60b716c63676@chello.nl> <41120B5F-1707-49AA-ADE1-3FAA13F96281@rogers.com> <003501d3ec8b$5fb65330$1f22f990$@rr.com> So it leaks! Kees Oudesluijs Op 15-5-2018 om 22:28 schreef BJ8Healeys: > > My original top did leak.? Not to toot my own hooter, but after I > installed a new Moss top myself, it didn't leak and still doesn't > after 18 years. But when I'm driving in heavy rain, I do sometimes > have a leak appear UNDER the dash pad.? My side windows also have the > gap with the top.? When I'm driving in rain, it doesn't leak there.? > On only one occasion did my driver's seat and floor get wet while > parked at a hotel during a hard rain overnight, but I think rain was > blowing sideways into that gap with the top. > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *s.hutchings at rogers.com > *Sent:* Monday, May 14, 2018 9:40 PM > *To:* Kees Oudesluijs > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows > > Actually, Steve Byers claims that his top doesn?t leak...I remember > this because he?s the only one to say that to me! > > I still think I can do better with these windows though. > > Stephen, BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alexmm at roadrunner.com Wed May 16 04:35:56 2018 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Wed, 16 May 2018 06:35:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps References: <000001d3ec0b$5a9a66a0$0fcf33e0$@sbcglobal.net> I installed battery cutoff switch obtained from the local marine equipment supply store. It is very heavy-duty, works nicely, and includes a removable red "key" that helps ensure security. I also added a small toggle switch on the battery cutoff mounting plate that grounds the distributor security wire. No. It does not look original. However, it fits perfectly in the original's place. It has very low voltage drop when cranking the starter motor. Alex in Maine 1960 BT7 On 5/15/2018 3:06 PM, ggilliam at usol.com wrote: > > Bob. > > ?Another item you didn't consider are the contacts in the battery > disconnect switch. I know with mine I have to sometimes fiddle around > with it to make good enough contact to run the starter well. Don't > know if the current available replacements are satisfactory. > > Regards, > > ?Gordy > > Longbridge BN4, with left side door lock > > On 2018-05-15 10:30, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> There's several variables to consider: >> >> - Later 6-cyl cars have the battery in the boot.? That's a long cable >> run to the starter solenoid; the cables and terminals need to be in >> good nick. >> >> - Ditto the starter.? The field coils in starters build up resistance >> over time and, eventually, the starter won't crank as well, putting >> even more load on the battery.? After a couple cranks, the field >> coils get warm and the resistance builds up and, of course, the >> battery's reserve gets depleted. >> >> - The higher the compression in your engine, the harder it is to turn >> over. >> >> - Thicker oil, like 20W-50 can bog an engine down a bit. >> >> The more CCA you have, the more margin to start an engine, esp. on a >> cold day (that's why CCA is the nominal stat for batteries).? My >> Healeys are harder to start after they've been sitting for more than >> a few days.? The 500CCA number I gave was a SWAG; I haven't seen any >> full-size auto battery with less than that anyway.? We got a battery >> for my dad's '65 Mustang 289 with 550CCA from Autozone; Costco didn't >> sell the size we needed.? It cranks the V8 OK. >> >> FWIW, when I rebuilt my BJ8's engine the (previously) satisfactory >> wet cell battery I had wouldn't even turn the engine over (later >> compression checks showed 180PSI +/- in all 6).? I had the starter >> rebuilt and installed an 800CCA AGM battery.? The starter actually >> startled me the first time I cranked it; it's nearly as fast as the >> geared starter in my Mustang. >> >> TLDR; The more the better. >> >> Bob >> >> On 5/14/2018 10:12 PM, John Spaur wrote: >>> >>> So... wise ones (and I mean that sincerely) >>> >>> My current battery is an Intimidator rated at 775. Bob S. mentioned >>> in a post about a minimum of 500. >>> >>> How many CCA's should a battery have for a Healey engine? >>> >>> TIA >>> >>> John Spaur >>> >>> San Jose >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ggilliam at usol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alexmm at roadrunner.com > --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ampole at hotmail.com Wed May 16 05:04:24 2018 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Wed, 16 May 2018 11:04:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows References: <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237@mail.yahoo.com> <50c58275-055f-e43a-70c4-60b716c63676@chello.nl> <41120B5F-1707-49AA-ADE1-3FAA13F96281@rogers.com> <003501d3ec8b$5fb65330$1f22f990$@rr.com>, <345f1d8f-41ab-7dba-6d12-ed62ca6fa8dd@chello.nl> [Image][Image][Image] Hi Kees I live in the centre of England and probably have the only non leaking Healey in torrential English?s rain! I spent nearly a year adjusting the rake of the windscreen, packing the hood frame pivot point and then adjusting the quarter lights and windows to suite. I then had to build up the wooden frame to fill in the gaps (both sides being different look at any Healey). Then adding the vinyl covers before fitting the aluminium brackets for the rubber seals (I left off the end caps so you get a perfect seal). Hence I have a 3mm gap around the window to hood that the seal fills perfectly!!! So I own the mythical unicorn! Regards Andy Get Outlook for iOS ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 9:21:29 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows So it leaks! Kees Oudesluijs Op 15-5-2018 om 22:28 schreef BJ8Healeys: My original top did leak. Not to toot my own hooter, but after I installed a new Moss top myself, it didn't leak and still doesn't after 18 years. But when I'm driving in heavy rain, I do sometimes have a leak appear UNDER the dash pad. My side windows also have the gap with the top. When I'm driving in rain, it doesn't leak there. On only one occasion did my driver's seat and floor get wet while parked at a hotel during a hard rain overnight, but I think rain was blowing sideways into that gap with the top. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 9:40 PM To: Kees Oudesluijs Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows Actually, Steve Byers claims that his top doesn?t leak...I remember this because he?s the only one to say that to me! I still think I can do better with these windows though. Stephen, BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Image-2.png Type: image/jpeg Size: 1101875 bytes Desc: Image-2.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Image-1.png Type: image/jpeg Size: 1369687 bytes Desc: Image-1.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Image.png Type: image/jpeg Size: 1095354 bytes Desc: Image.png URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed May 16 06:19:59 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 16 May 2018 13:19:59 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps References: <000001d3ec0b$5a9a66a0$0fcf33e0$@sbcglobal.net> The one thing that noone?s mentioned so far is putting in a modern starter motor. That won?t clean up the contacts in the wiring system, but it will certainly make the best use of your amps. Plainly not to everyone?s taste. Visually not obtrusive, but audibly a bit off. Does create space for a bigger oil filter if you?ve got a conversion that comes straight off the block?.. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex Sent: 16 May 2018 11:36 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps I installed battery cutoff switch obtained from the local marine equipment supply store. It is very heavy-duty, works nicely, and includes a removable red "key" that helps ensure security. I also added a small toggle switch on the battery cutoff mounting plate that grounds the distributor security wire. No. It does not look original. However, it fits perfectly in the original's place. It has very low voltage drop when cranking the starter motor. Alex in Maine 1960 BT7 Bob. Another item you didn't consider are the contacts in the battery disconnect switch. I know with mine I have to sometimes fiddle around with it to make good enough contact to run the starter well. Don't know if the current available replacements are satisfactory. Regards, Gordy Longbridge BN4, with left side door lock On 2018-05-15 10:30, Bob Spidell wrote: There's several variables to consider: - Later 6-cyl cars have the battery in the boot. That's a long cable run to the starter solenoid; the cables and terminals need to be in good nick. - Ditto the starter. The field coils in starters build up resistance over time and, eventually, the starter won't crank as well, putting even more load on the battery. After a couple cranks, the field coils get warm and the resistance builds up and, of course, the battery's reserve gets depleted. - The higher the compression in your engine, the harder it is to turn over. - Thicker oil, like 20W-50 can bog an engine down a bit. The more CCA you have, the more margin to start an engine, esp. on a cold day (that's why CCA is the nominal stat for batteries). My Healeys are harder to start after they've been sitting for more than a few days. The 500CCA number I gave was a SWAG; I haven't seen any full-size auto battery with less than that anyway. We got a battery for my dad's '65 Mustang 289 with 550CCA from Autozone; Costco didn't sell the size we needed. It cranks the V8 OK. FWIW, when I rebuilt my BJ8's engine the (previously) satisfactory wet cell battery I had wouldn't even turn the engine over (later compression checks showed 180PSI +/- in all 6). I had the starter rebuilt and installed an 800CCA AGM battery. The starter actually startled me the first time I cranked it; it's nearly as fast as the geared starter in my Mustang. TLDR; The more the better. Bob On 5/14/2018 10:12 PM, John Spaur wrote: So... wise ones (and I mean that sincerely) My current battery is an Intimidator rated at 775. Bob S. mentioned in a post about a minimum of 500. How many CCA's should a battery have for a Healey engine? TIA John Spaur San Jose _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Wed May 16 07:09:49 2018 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 01:09:49 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part References: Richard, It is the sleeve bush for a "100" rocker arm. It was later superseded by part number 11B 511. Mark Donaldson Ardmore NZ _____ From: richard mayor [mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, 16 May 2018 5:48 a.m. To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part I have some sleeve bushings I'm trying to identify. They are 1" long, 3/4" ID, Glacier, part #1B 1490 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed May 16 07:37:20 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 16 May 2018 09:37:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows References: <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237@mail.yahoo.com> <50c58275-055f-e43a-70c4-60b716c63676@chello.nl> <41120B5F-1707-49AA-ADE1-3FAA13F96281@rogers.com> <003501d3ec8b$5fb65330$1f22f990$@rr.com> <345f1d8f-41ab-7dba-6d12-ed62ca6fa8dd@chello.nl> There are occasional leaks, but it's not the top! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 4:21 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows So it leaks! Kees Oudesluijs Op 15-5-2018 om 22:28 schreef BJ8Healeys: My original top did leak. Not to toot my own hooter, but after I installed a new Moss top myself, it didn't leak and still doesn't after 18 years. But when I'm driving in heavy rain, I do sometimes have a leak appear UNDER the dash pad. My side windows also have the gap with the top. When I'm driving in rain, it doesn't leak there. On only one occasion did my driver's seat and floor get wet while parked at a hotel during a hard rain overnight, but I think rain was blowing sideways into that gap with the top. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of s.hutchings at rogers.com Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 9:40 PM To: Kees Oudesluijs Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows Actually, Steve Byers claims that his top doesn?t leak...I remember this because he?s the only one to say that to me! I still think I can do better with these windows though. Stephen, BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed May 16 09:59:03 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 16 May 2018 08:59:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows References: <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1164128556.1037688.1526314789237@mail.yahoo.com> <50c58275-055f-e43a-70c4-60b716c63676@chello.nl> <41120B5F-1707-49AA-ADE1-3FAA13F96281@rogers.com> <003501d3ec8b$5fb65330$1f22f990$@rr.com> <345f1d8f-41ab-7dba-6d12-ed62ca6fa8dd@chello.nl> ? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, May 16, 2018 at 1:21 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > So it leaks! > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 15-5-2018 om 22:28 schreef BJ8Healeys: > > My original top did leak. Not to toot my own hooter, but after I > installed a new Moss top myself, it didn't leak and still doesn't after 18 > years. But when I'm driving in heavy rain, I do sometimes have a leak > appear UNDER the dash pad. My side windows also have the gap with the > top. When I'm driving in rain, it doesn't leak there. On only one > occasion did my driver's seat and floor get wet while parked at a hotel > during a hard rain overnight, but I think rain was blowing sideways into > that gap with the top. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *s.hutchings at rogers.com > *Sent:* Monday, May 14, 2018 9:40 PM > *To:* Kees Oudesluijs > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows > > > > Actually, Steve Byers claims that his top doesn?t leak...I remember this > because he?s the only one to say that to me! > > > > I still think I can do better with these windows though. > > > > Stephen, BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Wed May 16 21:41:34 2018 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Wed, 16 May 2018 20:41:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part References: InudfOrDzKpa6InuefJRB8 I believe this may be the part for Austin Healey 100-4 engine: Rocker bush 1B1490 _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 10:48 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Mystery part I have some sleeve bushings I'm trying to identify. They are 1" long, 3/4" ID, Glacier, part #1B 1490 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed May 16 23:29:52 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 16 May 2018 22:29:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps References: <000001d3ec0b$5a9a66a0$0fcf33e0$@sbcglobal.net> <000001d3ed10$38dfb140$aa9f13c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> So? I never completely described the issues pertaining to this query. I have a 3000 BT7 and good 775 CCA battery. My car is hard to start in the winter, despite being housed in my garage, because I drive it infrequently. Yes, I know? just drive it more often! When starting it in the winter, the battery starts to give out, but not completely (yet) before starting the car. I suspect it is due to fuel degradation even though I add Stable to the petrol. I would like to get a portable jump starter for extra starting power instead of jumping from my daily driver. Been checking the list recommendations and some have a cranking rating but most do not. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 5:20 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps The one thing that noone?s mentioned so far is putting in a modern starter motor. That won?t clean up the contacts in the wiring system, but it will certainly make the best use of your amps. Plainly not to everyone?s taste. Visually not obtrusive, but audibly a bit off. Does create space for a bigger oil filter if you?ve got a conversion that comes straight off the block?.. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ampole at hotmail.com Thu May 17 01:02:34 2018 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 07:02:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windows References: <1000837794.2193876.1526519664978.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <1000837794.2193876.1526519664978@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Stephen Unfortunately you have to start with the packaging of the bottom of the hood frame, shims at the front or back of the fixing affect the position of the hood when it closes, I then alerted the angle of the windscreen with the quarter lights and windows loosely fixed. As the 4 holes in the windscreen support are oversize you have some adjustment in the angle, the same with the window channels, packing out with washers on both these (whichever side of the the support, outside or inside of the car) can pull them in or out. If memory serves correct I also adjusted the channels ( bent them gently over my knee) to help with the windows having better movement and not binding. I also put washers between the hood and wooden hockey sticks to push them out, in the fixing screws, (something like one washer at bottom and 2 a time top) this would help you! But you have to make sure your hood will still close into the channel![Image][Image][Image][Image] I found that it took 9 years to restore the car, I then got it mot?d ( safe for road , ministry of transport test) and then spent the year adjusting. Unfortunately you find you have to more or less take everything off start with the hood pivot and try different shims and then work through the above, hence it took so long. I got the front top point and rear edge of the glass as good as possible then enlarged the wood to suite, as per photos. Hope this helps Regards Andy Get Outlook for iOS ________________________________ From: Stephen Hutchings Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2018 2:14:24 AM To: andy pole Subject: Re: BJ8 Windows Hi Andy, I read your email with interest...I too spent quite a bit of time with the wooden parts of the top frame, in order to get everything to line up. However, I'd like to know just what you mean when you say "then adjusting the quarter lights and windows to suit." I know that there are certain movements you can make with the quarter lights and windows, but I can't find a way to bring them in closer to the top, at the rear . I woud appreciate any advice you might have. 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Name: Image-1.png Type: image/jpeg Size: 1332866 bytes Desc: Image-1.png URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 17 07:12:13 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 06:12:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps References: <000001d3ec0b$5a9a66a0$0fcf33e0$@sbcglobal.net> <000001d3ed10$38dfb140$aa9f13c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000501d3eda0$15d50a70$417f1f50$@sbcglobal.net> John, Do you use a battery maintainer?? They can help (but AGMs should have one tuned for them).? Have you had your starter rebuilt?? The field coils, in particular, can degrade and reduce the starter output considerably.? Solenoids degrade over time, too. It doesn't get that cold where you, and I used to, live; you shouldn't have that much trouble starting your Healey in the winter, even if it's sat for a couple months.? Mine would take 10-15 seconds of cranking in the winter after sitting to start, as opposed to maybe 5 seconds in warmer months. Switching to a lower-viscosity oil, for the winter at least, might help some too.? I use 20W-50 year-round.? My experience with the 'boosters'--exactly one--is that they might help a marginal starter/battery over the top, but will not cold start a completely dead battery, and least not on a big 6- or 8-cyl engine. Bob On 5/16/2018 10:29 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > So? I never completely described the issues pertaining to this query. > > I have a 3000 BT7 and good 775 CCA battery. My car is hard to start in > the winter, despite being housed in my garage, because I drive it > infrequently. Yes, I know? just drive it more often! > > When starting it in the winter, the battery starts to give out, but > not completely (yet) before starting the car. I suspect it is due to > fuel degradation even though I add Stable to the petrol. I would like > to get a portable jump starter for extra starting power instead of > jumping from my daily driver. Been checking the list recommendations > and some have a cranking rating but most do not. > > John > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > *Sent:* Wednesday, May 16, 2018 5:20 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps > > The one thing that noone?s mentioned so far is putting in a modern > starter motor. That won?t clean up the contacts in the wiring system, > but it will certainly make the best use of your amps. > > Plainly not to everyone?s taste. Visually not obtrusive, but audibly a > bit off. > > Does create space for a bigger oil filter if you?ve got a conversion > that comes straight off the block?.. > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Thu May 17 08:40:46 2018 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 07:40:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield, big Healey or Bugeye? Group, Is this a big Healey windshield or a Bugeye? It came in a pile of parts I bought. About 47.5 inches wide. Jerry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 177 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 577341 bytes Desc: not available URL: From warthodson at aol.com Thu May 17 10:25:20 2018 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 12:25:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps My suggestion is to first determine why your car is "hard to start in the winter". My 3000 sits all winter (in Kansas) without being started. In the spring it starts after cranking for 5-10 seconds. I have a trickle charger that I connect to the battery periodically. I measure the battery voltage & if it dips below about 12.5 volts I attach the trickle charger. My battery is an Odyssey PC1200 (CCA = 630). According to Odssey 12.5 volts is 75% charged. 12.84 is 100% charged. These are steady state figures, assuming the battery has not been on the charger for at lease 1 day & has not recently been used to start the car. When I hear that a car is hard to start in the winter the first thing I would check is the proper operation of the choke. Fuel enrichment not fast idle, depending upon the carbs on your BT7. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Thu, May 17, 2018 10:00 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps John, Do you use a battery maintainer? They can help (but AGMs should have one tuned for them). Have you had your starter rebuilt? The field coils, in particular, can degrade and reduce the starter output considerably. Solenoids degrade over time, too. It doesn't get that cold where you, and I used to, live; you shouldn't have that much trouble starting your Healey in the winter, even if it's sat for a couple months. Mine would take 10-15 seconds of cranking in the winter after sitting to start, as opposed to maybe 5 seconds in warmer months. Switching to a lower-viscosity oil, for the winter at least, might help some too. I use 20W-50 year-round. My experience with the 'boosters'--exactly one--is that they might help a marginal starter/battery over the top, but will not cold start a completely dead battery, and least not on a big 6- or 8-cyl engine. Bob On 5/16/2018 10:29 PM, John Spaur wrote: So? I never completely described the issues pertaining to this query. I have a 3000 BT7 and good 775 CCA battery. My car is hard to start in the winter, despite being housed in my garage, because I drive it infrequently. Yes, I know? just drive it more often! When starting it in the winter, the battery starts to give out, but not completely (yet) before starting the car. I suspect it is due to fuel degradation even though I add Stable to the petrol. I would like to get a portable jump starter for extra starting power instead of jumping from my daily driver. Been checking the list recommendations and some have a cranking rating but most do not. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 5:20 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps The one thing that noone?s mentioned so far is putting in a modern starter motor. That won?t clean up the contacts in the wiring system, but it will certainly make the best use of your amps. Plainly not to everyone?s taste. Visually not obtrusive, but audibly a bit off. Does create space for a bigger oil filter if you?ve got a conversion that comes straight off the block?.. Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ruvino at ripnet.com Thu May 17 11:03:03 2018 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (ruvino at ripnet.com) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 13:03:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable Any advise on replacing the choke cable on a BN-4 (mine is on the dash running to a BJ-8 engine)? The cable goes through a ?little? hole on the firewall hidden up above the heater box-almost impossible to get at. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu May 17 12:36:36 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 18:36:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Windshield, big Healey or Bugeye? References: <002401d3eded$0baee640$230cb2c0$@ssctv.net> Bugeye.Mike MacLean On Thursday, May 17, 2018 11:29 AM, Jerry Costanzo wrote: ?Group, ?Is this a big Healey windshield or a Bugeye?? It came in a pile of parts I bought.? About 47.5 inches wide.? ?Jerry_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 177 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 577341 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 17 13:38:17 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 12:38:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield, big Healey or Bugeye? References: <002401d3eded$0baee640$230cb2c0$@ssctv.net> not a big healey Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, May 17, 2018 at 7:40 AM, Jerry Costanzo wrote: > [image: - Description: > http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/attachment.php?attachmentid=52388&d=1518216184] > > > > Group, > > > > Is this a big Healey windshield or a Bugeye? It came in a pile of parts I > bought. About 47.5 inches wide. > > > > Jerry > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 177 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 577341 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Thu May 17 13:52:27 2018 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 15:52:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield, big Healey or Bugeye? References: <002401d3eded$0baee640$230cb2c0$@ssctv.net> Bugeye On Thu, May 17, 2018 at 2:35 PM Jerry Costanzo wrote: > [image: - Description: > http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/attachment.php?attachmentid=52388&d=1518216184] > > > > Group, > > > > Is this a big Healey windshield or a Bugeye? It came in a pile of parts I > bought. About 47.5 inches wide. > > > > Jerry > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 177 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 577341 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 177 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Thu May 17 14:09:06 2018 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 16:09:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Windshield, big Healey or Bugeye? Bugeye Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Costanzo To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Sent: Thu, 17 May 2018 10:40:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Windshield, big Healey or Bugeye? Group, Is this a big Healey windshield or a Bugeye? It came in a pile of parts I bought. About 47.5 inches wide. Jerry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net Thu May 17 17:33:34 2018 From: grumpyinloomis at ssctv.net (Jerry Costanzo) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 16:33:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield, big Healey or Bugeye? References: <002401d3eded$0baee640$230cb2c0$@ssctv.net> <554093909.2417546.1526582196584@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks everybody. It would appear that I have a windshield, side curtains, grill, aluminum cockpit surround, and most of 998cc engine for a Sprite. Jerry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmari2 at verizon.net Thu May 17 19:12:08 2018 From: gmari2 at verizon.net (gmari2 at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 17 May 2018 21:12:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Windshield, big Healey or Bugeye? References: <554093909.2417546.1526582196584@mail.yahoo.com> Sprite MKI & II, except the very early 58 MKI Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Thursday, May 17, 2018, Michael MacLean wrote: Bugeye. Mike MacLean On Thursday, May 17, 2018 11:29 AM, Jerry Costanzo wrote: Group, Is this a big Healey windshield or a Bugeye? It came in a pile of parts I bought. About 47.5 inches wide. Jerry _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 177 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 577341 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri May 18 00:48:49 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 18 May 2018 13:48:49 +0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Tank References: <92667556.1334308.1526375126086.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <92667556.1334308.1526375126086@mail.yahoo.com> <913da640-5f31-314f-2940-4950badbe87d@comcast.net> At some point, however, the tank must have metal to metal contact somewhere to prevent static charge build up and also to make sure the gas guage works. On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 9:39 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Get some reinforced rubber stock--places like Orchard Supply (maybe > Lowe's, HD, etc.) sell it--and put a couple strips front to back to level > the tank and keep it off the boot pan. > > BTW, if the tank hold-down straps have evenly-spaced holes they're for > copper rivets to hold a thick canvas-like padding. You don't want the > straps rubbing against the tank either (substitute rubber if you like). > > Bob > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri May 18 02:09:00 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 18 May 2018 10:09:00 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Tank References: <92667556.1334308.1526375126086.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <92667556.1334308.1526375126086@mail.yahoo.com> <913da640-5f31-314f-2940-4950badbe87d@comcast.net> Use one of the sender-tank screws by fixing a wire to the chassis to it. Thus earthing tank and sender. Often there is a tag to the base of sender unit to attach said earth wire. Kees Oudesluijs Op 18-5-2018 om 08:48 schreef Alan Seigrist: > At some point, however, the tank must have metal to metal contact > somewhere to prevent static charge build up and also to make sure the > gas guage works. > > On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 9:39 PM, Bob Spidell > Get some reinforced rubber stock--places like Orchard Supply > (maybe Lowe's, HD, etc.) sell it--and put a couple strips front to > back to level the tank and keep it off the boot pan. > > BTW, if the tank hold-down straps have evenly-spaced holes they're > for copper rivets to hold a thick canvas-like padding.? You don't > want the straps rubbing against the tank either (substitute rubber > if you like). > > Bob > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Fri May 18 02:24:27 2018 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Fri, 18 May 2018 04:24:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation My new fuel tank in the BJ8 has similar problems in installation. First of all, I noticed that the old tank installation allowed road splash water to enter the boot because the toward the forward end is tilted up to be able to screw into the fuel fitting and sponge rubber only touches the tank on the rear end of the tank. My idea was to use additional foam tape on the forward end of the tank and silicone caulking to seal the opening. Also, the tank is as loose in the straps so I used block of wood wedge to hold it firm temporarily. So I hope the group can describe how to install a new tank in and old car as allowing road water to enter the boot sounds illogical. My new tank is temporarily installed. Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri May 18 05:32:48 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 18 May 2018 07:32:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation References: <008d01d3ee81$a381a1d0$ea84e570$@gmail.com> Bob, if the tank is loose in the straps, you can tighten the straps up by tightening the nuts (under the boot floor) that secure the rear end of the straps. When I installed my tank, I got under the car to examine the seal of the foam gasket with the tank. For me, I didn't have any. But if you do you can fill them with more foam or sealant. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Begani Sent: Friday, May 18, 2018 4:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation My new fuel tank in the BJ8 has similar problems in installation. First of all, I noticed that the old tank installation allowed road splash water to enter the boot because the toward the forward end is tilted up to be able to screw into the fuel fitting and sponge rubber only touches the tank on the rear end of the tank. My idea was to use additional foam tape on the forward end of the tank and silicone caulking to seal the opening. Also, the tank is as loose in the straps so I used block of wood wedge to hold it firm temporarily. So I hope the group can describe how to install a new tank in and old car as allowing road water to enter the boot sounds illogical. My new tank is temporarily installed. Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 18 08:06:10 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 18 May 2018 07:06:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Tank References: <92667556.1334308.1526375126086.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <92667556.1334308.1526375126086@mail.yahoo.com> <913da640-5f31-314f-2940-4950badbe87d@comcast.net> Point taken.? However, I've never had an issue doing this, as I believe the tank is adequately grounded by both/either contact with the metal straps and/or the brackets that hold them, and/or by the metal pipe, which is grounded by several P-clips that are screwed into the chassis.?? You can always run a small wire from a screw on the sender to the body somewhere if you're concerned. Since the car is very effectively electrically isolated by the tires, the entire car can experience static buildup, and grounding the tank only disperses it throughout the chassis.? I've been zapped many times by my BJ8 which has a 'plastic' (mylar?) cover. Removing the cover creates quite a charge, esp. in low humidity. If I think about it, I ground myself to the car--usually I make contact with a bare leg to a bumper--before taking the cover off. The other concern is fueling, where the flow of fuel can create a charge.? Hopefully, the car gets grounded by contact with the pump nozzle (note the tank may be isolated by the rubber sleeve connecting the filler neck and the tank).? Fueling installations for piston-powered aircraft have a separate ground line that must be attached before making contact between the nozzle and any metal on the aircraft (usually, we connected it to the exhaust stack). I suspect--but don't know for a fact--that this is because the fuel line and nozzle don't have a ground lead 'built-in.' Bob On 5/17/2018 11:48 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > At some point, however, the tank must have metal to metal contact > somewhere to prevent static charge build up and also to make sure the > gas guage works. > > On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 9:39 PM, Bob Spidell > Get some reinforced rubber stock--places like Orchard Supply > (maybe Lowe's, HD, etc.) sell it--and put a couple strips front to > back to level the tank and keep it off the boot pan. > > BTW, if the tank hold-down straps have evenly-spaced holes they're > for copper rivets to hold a thick canvas-like padding.? You don't > want the straps rubbing against the tank either (substitute rubber > if you like). > > Bob > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 18 08:18:51 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 18 May 2018 07:18:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation References: <008d01d3ee81$a381a1d0$ea84e570$@gmail.com> Bob, In my (lmited-2) experience, a properly constructed tank should sit pretty flat on the boot pan.? Where did you get your tank from?? Has the boot pan been replaced or repaired (they are one of the rust 'hot spots')? I'd inspect both the boot pan and the tank, and try to figure out why the tank isn't sitting more-or-less flat.? If you don't find an obvious problem, I'd use the rubber 'packing' I mentioned to level the tank on the pan as much as possible (allowing that you have to connect to the pipe somehow, and fit under the brackets and straps).? You may need to make your own packing for the hole in the pan; be sure to use rubber (best) or at least 'closed-cell' insulation strips--another word for 'foam' is 'sponge'--and I don't think using a silicone caulk would hurt (urethane might stick TOO well). ? I wouldn't use any wood, as it can absorb water. Bob On 5/18/2018 1:24 AM, Robert Begani wrote: > > My new fuel tank in the BJ8 has similar problems in installation.? > First of all, I noticed that the old tank installation allowed road > splash water to enter the boot because the toward the forward end is > tilted up to be able to screw into the fuel fitting and sponge rubber > only touches the tank on the rear end of the tank.? My idea was to use > additional foam tape on the forward end of the tank and silicone > caulking to seal the opening.? Also, the tank is as loose in the > straps so I used block of wood wedge to hold it firm temporarily. So I > hope the group can describe how to install a new tank in and old car > as allowing road water to enter the boot sounds illogical. My new tank > is temporarily installed. > > Bob Begani > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri May 18 10:10:52 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 18 May 2018 18:10:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation References: <008d01d3ee81$a381a1d0$ea84e570$@gmail.com> Don?t use foam. It will rust out the tank and floor as it will absorb and hold water. Kees Oudesluijs Op 18-5-2018 om 10:24 schreef Robert Begani: > > My new fuel tank in the BJ8 has similar problems in installation.? > First of all, I noticed that the old tank installation allowed road > splash water to enter the boot because the toward the forward end is > tilted up to be able to screw into the fuel fitting and sponge rubber > only touches the tank on the rear end of the tank.? My idea was to use > additional foam tape on the forward end of the tank and silicone > caulking to seal the opening.? Also, the tank is as loose in the > straps so I used block of wood wedge to hold it firm temporarily. So I > hope the group can describe how to install a new tank in and old car > as allowing road water to enter the boot sounds illogical. My new tank > is temporarily installed. > > Bob Begani > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnbahesr at gmail.com Fri May 18 11:39:42 2018 From: johnbahesr at gmail.com (JOHN BAHE SR) Date: Fri, 18 May 2018 13:39:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation References: <008d01d3ee81$a381a1d0$ea84e570$@gmail.com> I just installed a new Moss tank and found that the Moss straps are slightly shorter tnat orginal because the Moss tank has a different radius that the orginal tank. The AH spares and the orginal straps are slightly longer and wll not tighten correctly. The Moss rubber mounting is different that the orginal and also different than AH spares seal, it worked perfectly with the Moss tank i realized a nice fit. I also fit a NOS Smith's fuel sending unit and used an upgraded seal and screws from Steve Christianson in California and I have had no leaks and no oder from fumes.......this all without using any type of sealant. The success I had was with trial and error using differnt suppliers parts and I finally realized the Moss tank installation would be successful with their straps and tank seal which is modified fron other tank mounting rubber I tried. Just my opinion, but these parts worked perfectly on my 1966 BJ8; others may have differnt results! On Fri, May 18, 2018 at 4:24 AM, Robert Begani wrote: > My new fuel tank in the BJ8 has similar problems in installation. First > of all, I noticed that the old tank installation allowed road splash water > to enter the boot because the toward the forward end is tilted up to be > able to screw into the fuel fitting and sponge rubber only touches the tank > on the rear end of the tank. My idea was to use additional foam tape on > the forward end of the tank and silicone caulking to seal the opening. > Also, the tank is as loose in the straps so I used block of wood wedge to > hold it firm temporarily. So I hope the group can describe how to install a > new tank in and old car as allowing road water to enter the boot sounds > illogical. My new tank is temporarily installed. > > > > Bob Begani > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/johnbahesr at gmail.com > > > -- John A Bahe Sr. Cell: (502) 599-2696 johnbahesr at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri May 18 12:45:13 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 18 May 2018 11:45:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] fiberglass fenders NFI https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/austin-healey-3000-front/6591948399.html Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Fri May 18 16:25:20 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Fri, 18 May 2018 23:25:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation References: <008d01d3ee81$a381a1d0$ea84e570$@gmail.com> Foam .. Years ago BLMC made a car called the 1100. Nothing special a decent little runabout. As ever the accountants made the engineers sign it off before it was really ready. About 5 years later, quite a long time in the life of some of BLMC?s offerings, 1100s started rotting out at the top of the rear rhs wheel arch. Why? Well .the very earliest purchasers noticed a buzz/vibration coming from the back rhs at certain speeds. Solution ..while car was being assembled, cram a cube of stiff foam between the two panels and no more ?sympathetic vibration?. (I think that?s the name?) 5 years later ..the foam is a wet cube of mud and salt and it rusts a hole right through from the inside. Don?t use foam. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: 18 May 2018 17:11 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation Don?t use foam. It will rust out the tank and floor as it will absorb and hold water. Kees Oudesluijs Op 18-5-2018 om 10:24 schreef Robert Begani: My new fuel tank in the BJ8 has similar problems in installation. First of all, I noticed that the old tank installation allowed road splash water to enter the boot because the toward the forward end is tilted up to be able to screw into the fuel fitting and sponge rubber only touches the tank on the rear end of the tank. My idea was to use additional foam tape on the forward end of the tank and silicone caulking to seal the opening. Also, the tank is as loose in the straps so I used block of wood wedge to hold it firm temporarily. So I hope the group can describe how to install a new tank in and old car as allowing road water to enter the boot sounds illogical. My new tank is temporarily installed. Bob Begani _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Fri May 18 17:45:44 2018 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Fri, 18 May 2018 16:45:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation References: <008d01d3ee81$a381a1d0$ea84e570$@gmail.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri May 18 17:45:37 2018 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 19 May 2018 09:45:37 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation References: <008d01d3ee81$a381a1d0$ea84e570$@gmail.com> You need the tank to be angled slightly forward. The fuel pickup is at the front. If you don't angle the tank slightly forwards you will have 5 litres sloshing around yet won't be going anywhere. Seal around the gap and pack the back of the tank with non stick builders foam strips Best Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 18 May 2018, at 6:24 pm, Robert Begani wrote: > > My new fuel tank in the BJ8 has similar problems in installation. First of all, I noticed that the old tank installation allowed road splash water to enter the boot because the toward the forward end is tilted up to be able to screw into the fuel fitting and sponge rubber only touches the tank on the rear end of the tank. My idea was to use additional foam tape on the forward end of the tank and silicone caulking to seal the opening. Also, the tank is as loose in the straps so I used block of wood wedge to hold it firm temporarily. So I hope the group can describe how to install a new tank in and old car as allowing road water to enter the boot sounds illogical. My new tank is temporarily installed. > > Bob Begani > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeynut2 at gmail.com Fri May 18 18:37:36 2018 From: healeynut2 at gmail.com (Don Hardie) Date: Sat, 19 May 2018 10:37:36 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Tank References: <92667556.1334308.1526375126086.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <92667556.1334308.1526375126086@mail.yahoo.com> <913da640-5f31-314f-2940-4950badbe87d@comcast.net> An earth wire from one of the sender screws to the somewhere on the body is a good idea to make sure tank is earthed. Don Hardie Central Coast Australia On Fri, May 18, 2018 at 4:48 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > At some point, however, the tank must have metal to metal contact > somewhere to prevent static charge build up and also to make sure the gas > guage works. > > On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 9:39 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> Get some reinforced rubber stock--places like Orchard Supply (maybe >> Lowe's, HD, etc.) sell it--and put a couple strips front to back to level >> the tank and keep it off the boot pan. >> >> BTW, if the tank hold-down straps have evenly-spaced holes they're for >> copper rivets to hold a thick canvas-like padding. You don't want the >> straps rubbing against the tank either (substitute rubber if you like). >> >> Bob >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeynut2 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri May 18 21:44:08 2018 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sat, 19 May 2018 03:44:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation References: <008d01d3ee81$a381a1d0$ea84e570$@gmail.com> , <20180518234544.4579410.54616.11860@gmail.com> These tank straps are also quite easy to fabricate. I have done so quite a few times and used the ends from the used ones, some sheet metal, a bit of welding and that?s it. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Friday, May 18, 2018 6:45:44 PM To: JOHN BAHE SR Cc: healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation I learned the hard way? about Moss's straps when I installed my restored original tank. It took several tries and everything I could do to get a nut threaded onto the strap end under the boot. If I had known then that AH Spares straps would solve my problem I would have ordered them. Maybe I still will. Thanks John -Roland BN1 #724 Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. From: JOHN BAHE SR Sent: Friday, May 18, 2018 2:28 PM To: Robert Begani Cc: healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation I just installed a new Moss tank and found that the Moss straps are slightly shorter tnat orginal because the Moss tank has a different radius that the orginal tank. The AH spares and the orginal straps are slightly longer and wll not tighten correctly. The Moss rubber mounting is different that the orginal and also different than AH spares seal, it worked perfectly with the Moss tank i realized a nice fit. I also fit a NOS Smith's fuel sending unit and used an upgraded seal and screws from Steve Christianson in California and I have had no leaks and no oder from fumes.......this all without using any type of sealant. The success I had was with trial and error using differnt suppliers parts and I finally realized the Moss tank installation would be successful with their straps and tank seal which is modified fron other tank mounting rubber I tried. Just my opinion, but these parts worked perfectly on my 1966 BJ8; others may have differnt results! -- John A Bahe Sr. Cell: (502) 599-2696 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sat May 19 11:25:13 2018 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Sat, 19 May 2018 13:25:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Installation The fuel tank re-installation will have to wait until October when I return to Florida. Meanwhile, all of you have been very helpful in figuring out the proper installation. My guess is the fuel line mounted to the back of the boot is too high and needs to be lowered so the tank will fit flush to the bottom of the boot and leveled. Maybe that was why the fuel gauge was in accurate Then the straps etc. will need to be adjusted according to the comments. Will let you no later how it goes. Thanks to all for your comments, Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ruvino at ripnet.com Sat May 19 15:26:43 2018 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (ruvino at ripnet.com) Date: Sat, 19 May 2018 17:26:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: choke cable Trying again From: ruvino at ripnet.com Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2018 1:03 PM To: healeylist Subject: choke cable Any advise on replacing the choke cable on a BN-4 (mine is on the dash running to a BJ-8 engine)? The cable goes through a ?little? hole on the firewall hidden up above the heater box-almost impossible to get at. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sat May 19 16:01:14 2018 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Sat, 19 May 2018 22:01:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: choke cable References: <8170A1436BEC45FABB5617F5C6B17FED@p6520f> I replaced mine with a wire for a lawn Mower throttle from tractor supply Regards, Richard C Trying again Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2018 1:03 PM Subject: choke cable Any advise on replacing the choke cable on a BN-4 (mine is on the dash running to a BJ-8 engine)? The cable goes through a ?little? hole on the firewall hidden up above the heater box-almost impossible to get at. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sat May 19 18:00:03 2018 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Sun, 20 May 2018 12:00:03 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Tank References: <92667556.1334308.1526375126086.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <92667556.1334308.1526375126086@mail.yahoo.com> <913da640-5f31-314f-2940-4950badbe87d@comcast.net> The petrol tank is earthed by the feed pipe to the fuel pump, and all the way to the engine at numerous points. Mark Donaldson Ardmore NZ _____ From: Don Hardie [mailto:healeynut2 at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, 19 May 2018 12:38 p.m. To: Alan Seigrist Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Fuel Tank An earth wire from one of the sender screws to the somewhere on the body is a good idea to make sure tank is earthed. Don Hardie Central Coast Australia On Fri, May 18, 2018 at 4:48 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: At some point, however, the tank must have metal to metal contact somewhere to prevent static charge build up and also to make sure the gas guage works. On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 9:39 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Get some reinforced rubber stock--places like Orchard Supply (maybe Lowe's, HD, etc.) sell it--and put a couple strips front to back to level the tank and keep it off the boot pan. BTW, if the tank hold-down straps have evenly-spaced holes they're for copper rivets to hold a thick canvas-like padding. You don't want the straps rubbing against the tank either (substitute rubber if you like). Bob _______________________________________________ html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/ healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys options/healeys/healeynut2 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat May 19 20:03:25 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 19 May 2018 19:03:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: choke cable References: <8170A1436BEC45FABB5617F5C6B17FED@p6520f> I recall doing this in my BJ8 (which was a PITA as well).? If you've left yourself some slack in your heater hoses you might be able to drop the heater a little without disconnecting them. Bob On 5/19/2018 3:01 PM, Richard Collins wrote: > I replaced mine with a wire for a lawn Mower throttle from tractor supply > > Regards, > Richard C > > > On May 19, 2018, at 4:52 PM, "ruvino at ripnet.com > >> Trying again >> *Sent:* Thursday, May 17, 2018 1:03 PM >> *Subject:* choke cable >> Any advise on replacing the choke cable on a BN-4 (mine is on the >> dash running to a BJ-8 engine)? >> The cable goes through a ?little? hole on the firewall hidden up >> above the heater box-almost impossible to get at. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat May 19 22:02:33 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 19 May 2018 21:02:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] choke cable References: <299A13AA03194861B1DC0835743391C6@p6520f> I bought the OEM replacement from moss and cut the casing and cable shorter due to a shorter routing distance than on the BJ8. I have hd8 carbs on my bn4 Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Thu, May 17, 2018, 4:03 PM wrote: > Any advise on replacing the choke cable on a BN-4 (mine is on the dash > running to a BJ-8 engine)? > > The cable goes through a ?little? hole on the firewall hidden up above the > heater box-almost impossible to get at. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eschulz at frontiernet.net Sat May 19 22:15:28 2018 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Sun, 20 May 2018 00:15:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: choke cable References: <8170A1436BEC45FABB5617F5C6B17FED@p6520f> Before pulling out the old cable, attach a wire at the firewall end as a snake and then do the reverse with the new cable and pull it through. Elton On 5/19/2018 5:26 PM, ruvino at ripnet.com wrote: > Trying again > *Sent:* Thursday, May 17, 2018 1:03 PM > *Subject:* choke cable > Any advise on replacing the choke cable on a BN-4 (mine is on the dash > running to a BJ-8 engine)? > The cable goes through a "little" hole on the firewall hidden up above > the heater box-almost impossible to get at. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat May 19 23:16:33 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 20 May 2018 13:16:33 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] fiberglass fenders References: good for racing I suppose On Sat, May 19, 2018 at 2:45 AM, i erbs wrote: > NFI > https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/austin-healey- > 3000-front/6591948399.html > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun May 20 00:40:18 2018 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 20 May 2018 16:40:18 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] fiberglass fenders References: Hello Not in Australia they are not. What was raced back in period, must be raced now. Fibreglass panels were very popular during the 1970s when original panels were not available, but now panels in steel and alloy can be purchased from a few suppliers around the world. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Sunday, 20 May 2018 3:17 PM To: i erbs Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] fiberglass fenders good for racing I suppose On Sat, May 19, 2018 at 2:45 AM, i erbs wrote: NFI https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/austin-healey-3000-front/6591948399.html Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB MG A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eschulz at frontiernet.net Mon May 21 11:22:34 2018 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Mon, 21 May 2018 13:22:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake cylinder Fellow Listers, Any opinion on whether the TRW brand rear brake cylinder, Moss 021-161 is worth the extra money over the aftermarket Moss 021-151? Elton From dcorning at ford.com Mon May 21 13:25:59 2018 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Mon, 21 May 2018 19:25:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 - Best Custom Cover I would appreciate recommendations for a custom car cover. I?m looking for something soft and padded to protect against bumps but still usable for the 1% of time the car might be covered overnight outside. Best, Dan Corning Sent from my iPhone From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 21 18:26:08 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 21 May 2018 17:26:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear brake cylinder References: <5B03005A.1060203@frontiernet.net> I bought and installed the 'aftermarket' cylinder in my BJ8; I thought the quality was fine.? I really can't see what the extra, what, $40?, would buy. Bob On 5/21/2018 10:22 AM, Elton Schulz wrote: > Fellow Listers, > Any opinion on whether the TRW brand rear brake cylinder, Moss 021-161 > is worth the extra money over the aftermarket Moss 021-151? > Elton > > > From bspidell at comcast.net Mon May 21 18:50:04 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 21 May 2018 17:50:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 - Best Custom Cover References: <7B24DC3D-C887-49DB-A332-F73A0B21F55C@ford.com> I got one for our BN2 from Moss a few years ago; happy with quality and fit.? I think it was this one (I likely wouldn't have spent over $100 on one): https://mossmotors.com/mosom-plus-car-cover-4 Bob On 5/21/2018 12:25 PM, Corning, Dan (D.C.) wrote: > I would appreciate recommendations for a custom car cover. I?m looking for something soft and padded to protect against bumps but still usable for the 1% of time the car might be covered overnight outside. > > Best, > Dan Corning > Sent from my iPhone > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 22 16:48:03 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 22 May 2018 22:48:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan References: <477009600.34005.1527029283756.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search function.Mike MacLean | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Tue May 22 22:16:28 2018 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 00:16:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan Mike, Look into Flex-A-Lite. I put one on my '67 BJ8 many years ago and haven't had a problem with it. It is the flexable fiberglass type. I don't know if they are available anymore in fiberglass but I see the flexable stainless steel ones are out there. Just google Flex-A-Lite and see what comes up. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message---- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Tue, May 22, 2018 9:54 pm Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search function. Mike MacLean Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 23 00:41:34 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 08:41:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan References: <477009600.34005.1527029283756.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <477009600.34005.1527029283756@mail.yahoo.com> Install an electric fan controlled by a thermo switch. Cheaper and simple. Kees Oudesluijs Op 23-5-2018 om 00:48 schreef Michael MacLean: > Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan > marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan > is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I > live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I > just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another > source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search > function. > Mike MacLean > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed May 23 02:37:34 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 15:37:34 +0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan References: <477009600.34005.1527029283756.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <477009600.34005.1527029283756@mail.yahoo.com> Hey Michael - I can say for a fact that the 100 should never need auxiliary cooling. It will run cool under almost all circumstances. If the car is getting hot, it means your radiator need rodding, or if you're hot in the cockpit, you have bulkhead gaps that need plugging. If anything, jet hot coating the headers is a good thing to do, otherwise... the car should not run hot. Cheers, Alan On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 5:48 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan > marked down from $130 to $104. Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is > $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks. I live in > Southern California and it can get hot out here. Should I just go with the > $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper. > I tried the archives, but there is no search function. > Mike MacLean > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com Wed May 23 07:51:53 2018 From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 13:51:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Cooling fan. I tried everything to keep my BJ7 cool. Engine rebuild, Texas cooler, electric fan, oil cooler. Nothing worked until I had my radiator modified. I had an extra row added and like magic my baby runs cool under every condition. I now have my stock four blade fan and nothing else, and unless you look very carefully you can?t tell that the radiator was modified. The only problem was ?shoe horning? the modified radiator back into position. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From atightprod at aol.com Wed May 23 09:16:35 2018 From: atightprod at aol.com (atightprod at aol.com) Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 11:16:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan References: <477009600.34005.1527029283756@mail.yahoo.com> My 100 ran hot, not on the road, but when I got stuck in traffic. So I switched over to an aluminum radiator from Wizard Cooling. (NFI). Then I got the stainless steel fan from British Car Specialists in Stockton. (NFI)? I made the system an enclosed system by installing an overflow tank I got from Charlie Hart. (NFI) And finally I put a marine bilge fan next to the radiator with an on/off switch under my dash that blows cold air directly on the front float bowl because without a heat shield, the front carburetor was vapor locking. All bolt on operations with no drilling, an extra power wire and a simple installation of the overflow tank for the radiator.? ? ? A few weeks ago I got stuck in LA? traffic on the 405 going up and over the Mulholland Pass. The car got up to 212, but no vapor lock, ran smooth and made it over the hill and down into the Santa Monica side and the temp came down to 180. Best additions I made to my car, period. ? ? I still have all the stock elements, I can unbolt and re-bolt everything in an afternoon if I choose, but I choose to drive my car and I never know what situation I'm going to get stuck in, so I made the mods and haven't looked back. And by the way, the temp gauge does not stop at the 230 mark, it will continue past there and climb up into the oil pressure side. But that's another story. ? ? Good luck, Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598? ? ? In a message dated 5/22/2018 7:17:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, rrengineer.mike at att.net writes: ? Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search function. Mike MacLean Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed May 23 09:33:46 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 08:33:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] seat covers Now that I have newly recovered seats, I would like to cover them with something cooler than the vinyl. Has anyone found a cloth seat cover that fits at BN 4 front seat? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed May 23 10:01:14 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 09:01:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan References: <477009600.34005.1527029283756.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <477009600.34005.1527029283756@mail.yahoo.com> We can supply a stainless steel flex fan with spacer for the 100/4 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2018 3:48 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104. Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks. I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here. Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper. I tried the archives, but there is no search function. Mike MacLean Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From allan-peters at sky.com Wed May 23 12:40:45 2018 From: allan-peters at sky.com (allan-peters at sky.com) Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 18:40:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 162 References: HI,? ? ?To cure overheating on your BN2 it would be wise to invest in an ALLOY? Rad.??You will be amazed at how cool it runs,even in Texas !!!!!!!!!!!!!!? ?Good Luck !! On Wednesday, 23 May 2018, 19:34, "healeys-request at autox.team.net" wrote: Send Healeys mailing list submissions to ??? healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. 100-4 Cooling Fan (Michael MacLean) ? 2. Re: 100-4 Cooling Fan (Larry Wendland) ? 3. Re: 100-4 Cooling Fan (Kees Oudesluijs) ? 4. Re: 100-4 Cooling Fan (Alan Seigrist) ? 5. Cooling fan. (Leonard Berkowitz) ? 6. Re: 100-4 Cooling Fan (atightprod at aol.com) ? 7. seat covers (i erbs) ? 8. Re: 100-4 Cooling Fan (David Nock BCS) Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search function.Mike MacLean | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | Mike, Look into Flex-A-Lite. I put one on my '67 BJ8 many years ago and haven't had a problem with it. It is the flexable fiberglass type. I don't know if they are available anymore in fiberglass but I see the flexable stainless steel ones are out there. Just google Flex-A-Lite and see what comes up. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message---- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Tue, May 22, 2018 9:54 pm Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search function. Mike MacLean ??? ? ? ? ? ??? ??? Virus-free. www.avg.com??? ??? ??? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Install an electric fan controlled by a thermo switch. Cheaper and simple. Kees Oudesluijs Op 23-5-2018 om 00:48 schreef Michael MacLean: Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search function. Mike MacLean | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Hey Michael - I can say for a fact that the 100 should never need auxiliary cooling.? It will run cool under almost all circumstances.? If the car is getting hot, it means your radiator need rodding, or if you're hot in the cockpit, you have bulkhead gaps that need plugging. If anything, jet hot coating the headers is a good thing to do, otherwise... the car should not run hot. Cheers, Alan On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 5:48 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search function.Mike MacLean I tried everything to keep my BJ7 cool. Engine rebuild, Texas cooler, electric fan, oil cooler. Nothing worked until I had my radiator modified.? I had an extra row added and like magic my baby runs cool under every condition. I now have my stock four blade fan and nothing else, and unless you look very carefully you can?t tell that the radiator was modified. The only problem was ?shoe horning? the modified radiator back into position.My 100 ran hot, not on the road, but when I got stuck in traffic. So I switched over to an aluminum radiator from Wizard Cooling. (NFI). Then I got the stainless steel fan from British Car Specialists in Stockton. (NFI)? I made the system an enclosed system by installing an overflow tank I got from Charlie Hart. (NFI) And finally I put a marine bilge fan next to the radiator with an on/off switch under my dash that blows cold air directly on the front float bowl because without a heat shield, the front carburetor was vapor locking. All bolt on operations with no drilling, an extra power wire and a simple installation of the overflow tank for the radiator. ? ? A few weeks ago I got stuck in LA? traffic on the 405 going up and over the Mulholland Pass. The car got up to 212, but no vapor lock, ran smooth and made it over the hill and down into the Santa Monica side and the temp came down to 180. Best additions I made to my car, period.? ? I still have all the stock elements, I can unbolt and re-bolt everything in an afternoon if I choose, but I choose to drive my car and I never know what situation I'm going to get stuck in, so I made the mods and haven't looked back. And by the way, the temp gauge does not stop at the 230 mark, it will continue past there and climb up into the oil pressure side. But that's another story.? ? Good luck,Steven KingsburyBN1 #598? In a message dated 5/22/2018 7:17:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, rrengineer.mike at att.net writes: Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search function.Mike MacLean | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Now that I have newly recovered seats, I? would like to cover them with something cooler than the vinyl. Has anyone found a cloth seat cover that fits at BN 4 front seat? Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB ? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled wordsWe can supply a stainless steel flex fan with spacer for the 100/4??David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com?From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2018 3:48 PMTo: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan?Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search function.Mike MacLean | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Wed May 23 13:12:04 2018 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 15:12:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan References: <1638b366759-c94-9548@webjas-vaa073.srv.aolmail.net> Mike, As a footnote I also put an electric fan in front of the radiator controlled by a toggle switch in the cockpit. I used to live in the Miami area and during the summer it was a furnace down there. I also tried an additional pair of blades on the stock set of blades and I noticed the additional weight affected the acceleration of the engine. Then I went to the Flex-A-Lite fan. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland To: rrengineer.mike ; healeys Sent: Wed, May 23, 2018 12:16 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan Mike, Look into Flex-A-Lite. I put one on my '67 BJ8 many years ago and haven't had a problem with it. It is the flexible fiberglass type. I don't know if they are available anymore in fiberglass but I see the flexible stainless steel ones are out there. Just google Flex-A-Lite and see what comes up. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message---- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Tue, May 22, 2018 9:54 pm Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search function. Mike MacLean Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed May 23 13:24:11 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 19:24:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan References: <1638b366759-c94-9548@webjas-vaa073.srv.aolmail.net> <1638e6a5704-c8d-f645@webjas-vaa236.srv.aolmail.net> Thanks for the input guys.? I just called Dave and ordered his stainless steel flex fan, spacer and bolts package for my BN2.? I like the idea of a fan going flat at speed to lessen the load on the engine.? My radiator is newly re-cored, I am having a Chevy style neck put on it to raise the pressure in the system thereby the boiling point.? Hopefully, as long as the timing is correct with a new radiator core there should not be a problem with over heating.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, May 23, 2018 12:12 PM, Larry Wendland wrote: Mike, As a footnote I also put an electric fan in front of the radiator controlled by a toggle switch in the cockpit. I used to live in the Miami area and during the summer it was a furnace down there. I also tried an additional pair of blades on the stock set of blades and I noticed the additional weight affected the acceleration of the engine. Then I went to the Flex-A-Lite fan. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Larry Wendland To: rrengineer.mike ; healeys Sent: Wed, May 23, 2018 12:16 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan Mike, Look into Flex-A-Lite. I put one on my '67 BJ8 many years ago and haven't had a problem with it. It is the flexible fiberglass type. I don't know if they are available anymore in fiberglass but I see the flexible stainless steel ones are out there. Just google Flex-A-Lite and see what comes up. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message---- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Tue, May 22, 2018 9:54 pm Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104.? Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks.? I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here.? Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper.? I tried the archives, but there is no search function. Mike MacLean ??? ? ? ? ? ??? ??? Virus-free. www.avg.com??? ??? ??? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Wed May 23 17:39:53 2018 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 23:39:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan References: <1638b366759-c94-9548@webjas-vaa073.srv.aolmail.net> <1638e6a5704-c8d-f645@webjas-vaa236.srv.aolmail.net>, <306818356.440187.1527103451824@mail.yahoo.com> Having the proper long neck thermostat (original style) also helps in keeping your vehicle running cooler. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2018 2:24:11 PM To: Larry Wendland; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan Thanks for the input guys. I just called Dave and ordered his stainless steel flex fan, spacer and bolts package for my BN2. I like the idea of a fan going flat at speed to lessen the load on the engine. My radiator is newly re-cored, I am having a Chevy style neck put on it to raise the pressure in the system thereby the boiling point. Hopefully, as long as the timing is correct with a new radiator core there should not be a problem with over heating. Mike MacLean On Wednesday, May 23, 2018 12:12 PM, Larry Wendland wrote: Mike, As a footnote I also put an electric fan in front of the radiator controlled by a toggle switch in the cockpit. I used to live in the Miami area and during the summer it was a furnace down there. I also tried an additional pair of blades on the stock set of blades and I noticed the additional weight affected the acceleration of the engine. Then I went to the Flex-A-Lite fan. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- Sent: Wed, May 23, 2018 12:16 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan Mike, Look into Flex-A-Lite. I put one on my '67 BJ8 many years ago and haven't had a problem with it. It is the flexible fiberglass type. I don't know if they are available anymore in fiberglass but I see the flexible stainless steel ones are out there. Just google Flex-A-Lite and see what comes up. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message---- Sent: Tue, May 22, 2018 9:54 pm Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Cooling Fan Moss is having a sale on right now and I can get a 6 bladed metal fan marked down from $130 to $104. Moss's version of the Texas Cooler fan is $85, but my BN2 needs an adapter that costs another 85 bucks. I live in Southern California and it can get hot out here. Should I just go with the $103 fan or is there a fan available from another source that is cheaper. I tried the archives, but there is no search function. Mike MacLean Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com Wed May 23 21:12:32 2018 From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 03:12:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Cooling fan I tried everything to keep my BJ7 cool. Engine rebuild, Texas cooler, electric fan, oil cooler. Nothing worked until I had my radiator modified. I had an extra row added and like magic my baby runs cool under every condition. I now have my stock four blade fan and nothing else, and unless you look very carefully you can?t tell that the radiator was modified. The only problem was ?shoe horning? the modified radiator back into position. From deejay2650 at gmail.com Wed May 23 22:01:20 2018 From: deejay2650 at gmail.com (Deejay2650) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 14:01:20 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide G'day All, Does anyone on the list know if Gary Anderson and Roger Moment are going to do a revised and updated version of the 100, 100-6 and 3000 Restoration Guide in paperback and sold at a price that is affordable. A Healey mate in Oz bought a copy back in 2002 for AU $32 ...now copies are available for over US 700, one site for US $1900, which is great for the authors, not for Healey owners. I, unfortunately, cannot afford prices like that. Cheers, Darryl (AH3000 BJ8 Ph2) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu May 24 00:16:06 2018 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 16:16:06 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide References: Hello My copy cost me less that Au$32 and it?s signed by the authors. While copies might be selling for absurd money, not a cent goes to the authors. The publishers own the publication and copies that are now being sold are from private owners or from resellers. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Deejay2650 Sent: Thursday, 24 May 2018 2:01 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide G'day All, Does anyone on the list know if Gary Anderson and Roger Moment are going to do a revised and updated version of the 100, 100-6 and 3000 Restoration Guide in paperback and sold at a price that is affordable. A Healey mate in Oz bought a copy back in 2002 for AU $32 ...now copies are available for over US 700, one site for US $1900, which is great for the authors, not for Healey owners. I, unfortunately, cannot afford prices like that. Cheers, Darryl (AH3000 BJ8 Ph2) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 24 06:59:14 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 05:59:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide References: As far as I remember. No. They do not have control over the book. Do a online search. It is available in pdf online. I'll try to look for it later today. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Wed, May 23, 2018, 10:00 PM Deejay2650 wrote: > G'day All, > Does anyone on the list know if Gary Anderson and Roger Moment are going > to do a revised and updated version of the 100, 100-6 and 3000 Restoration > Guide in paperback and sold at a price that is affordable. A Healey mate in > Oz bought a copy back in 2002 for AU $32 ...now copies are available for > over US 700, one site for US $1900, which is great for the authors, not for > Healey owners. I, unfortunately, cannot afford prices like that. > Cheers, > Darryl (AH3000 BJ8 Ph2) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Thu May 24 07:37:58 2018 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 09:37:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide References: <01e101d3f326$b5013b60$1f03b220$@tpg.com.au> Save yourself some money, and use the wisdom of the list along with the concours guidelines. Having been in the publishing business, I have to say that the quality of the photography reproduction in that book is beyond poor... Sorry guys- I have the greatest respect for the authors, but those photos...yeesh! I?ve kept my opinion to myself until now, but when I see what kind of money people are asking I can?t keep quiet. Stephen, BJ8 Sent from my iPad > On May 24, 2018, at 2:16 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Hello > > My copy cost me less that Au$32 and it?s signed by the authors. > > While copies might be selling for absurd money, not a cent goes to the authors. The publishers own the publication and copies that are now being sold are from private owners or from resellers. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Deejay2650 > Sent: Thursday, 24 May 2018 2:01 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide > > G'day All, > Does anyone on the list know if Gary Anderson and Roger Moment are going to do a revised and updated version of the 100, 100-6 and 3000 Restoration Guide in paperback and sold at a price that is affordable. A Healey mate in Oz bought a copy back in 2002 for AU $32 ...now copies are available for over US 700, one site for US $1900, which is great for the authors, not for Healey owners. I, unfortunately, cannot afford prices like that. > Cheers, > Darryl (AH3000 BJ8 Ph2) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Thu May 24 07:51:24 2018 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 08:51:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide References: <01e101d3f326$b5013b60$1f03b220$@tpg.com.au> About 2009, I gave my hardcover copy, as a present, to a close friend that was contemplating restoring her father's original owner BN2. She inherited the Healey from him. It was just a book then, a very good restoration guide for Austin-Healeys. I never replaced the copy I gave her, and now, cannot possibly ask to have it back. I doubt she even knows it's value as she is not active on the forums and wouldn't be checking ebay looking for the book. If I told her the value, she would probably hand it back to me. That is the kind of person she is. Her BN2 was finished being restored in 2012 and is a superb car. She even had the racing stripe that her father put on the car recreated for the restoration because that is how she remembers the car during her youth. The pic shows she and I driving to a local community college on a Sunday morning for her very first time driving her 'new' Healey. The car had been off the road since the early '70s. I guess I should have just loaned the book to my other friend that restored her car. Neil Anderson Northern Illinois Virus-free. www.avast.com <#m_-1717362040521742345_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 1:16 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > Hello > > > > My copy cost me less that Au$32 and it?s signed by the authors. > > > > While copies might be selling for absurd money, not a cent goes to the > authors. The publishers own the publication and copies that are now being > sold are from private owners or from resellers. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of * > Deejay2650 > *Sent:* Thursday, 24 May 2018 2:01 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide > > > > G'day All, > > Does anyone on the list know if Gary Anderson and Roger Moment are going > to do a revised and updated version of the 100, 100-6 and 3000 Restoration > Guide in paperback and sold at a price that is affordable. A Healey mate in > Oz bought a copy back in 2002 for AU $32 ...now copies are available for > over US 700, one site for US $1900, which is great for the authors, not for > Healey owners. I, unfortunately, cannot afford prices like that. > > Cheers, > > Darryl (AH3000 BJ8 Ph2) > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN2227.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3656606 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 24 09:00:22 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 08:00:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide References: check out this wonderful site created and maintained by a former Healey owner John Simms. Great resource for all things Healey http://www.healey6.com/important_links.htm Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 9:01 PM, Deejay2650 wrote: > G'day All, > Does anyone on the list know if Gary Anderson and Roger Moment are going > to do a revised and updated version of the 100, 100-6 and 3000 Restoration > Guide in paperback and sold at a price that is affordable. A Healey mate in > Oz bought a copy back in 2002 for AU $32 ...now copies are available for > over US 700, one site for US $1900, which is great for the authors, not for > Healey owners. I, unfortunately, cannot afford prices like that. > Cheers, > Darryl (AH3000 BJ8 Ph2) > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 24 09:03:14 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 08:03:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide References: go to Healey.org and join the club to get access to *37 part series by Roger Moment with Gary Anderson. Tips on Maintaining, Repairing and Restoring Austin Healeys including with the set up of the work space, tools needed and a description of dismantling, refurbishing and rebuilding the car. You must be a member of the Austin Healey Club, USA. The link takes you to the home page of their site where you can apply, make your dues payment and get the necessary User ID and Password. Money well spent even if you are not restoring a car. Articles can be used for general repairs also.* Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 9:01 PM, Deejay2650 wrote: > G'day All, > Does anyone on the list know if Gary Anderson and Roger Moment are going > to do a revised and updated version of the 100, 100-6 and 3000 Restoration > Guide in paperback and sold at a price that is affordable. A Healey mate in > Oz bought a copy back in 2002 for AU $32 ...now copies are available for > over US 700, one site for US $1900, which is great for the authors, not for > Healey owners. I, unfortunately, cannot afford prices like that. > Cheers, > Darryl (AH3000 BJ8 Ph2) > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 410407 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 24 11:12:19 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 10:12:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] seats anyone know what other cars big Healey seats were OEM? Or were we the only ones to suffer? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gablegerry at netscape.net Thu May 24 12:25:39 2018 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 14:25:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide I tried to join but my computer tells me it is not a 'safe sight' and any info I email could be hijacked. Tried to find an address to get an application. any Ideas? -----Original Message----- From: i erbs To: Deejay2650 Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Thu, May 24, 2018 12:26 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide go to Healey.org and join the club to get access to 37 part series by Roger Moment with Gary Anderson. Tips on Maintaining, Repairing and Restoring Austin Healeys including with the set up of the work space, tools needed and a description of dismantling, refurbishing and rebuilding the car. You must be a member of the Austin Healey Club, USA. The link takes you to the home page of their site where you can apply, make your dues payment and get the necessary User ID and Password. Money well spent even if you are not restoring a car. Articles can be used for general repairs also. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 9:01 PM, Deejay2650 wrote: G'day All, Does anyone on the list know if Gary Anderson and Roger Moment are going to do a revised and updated version of the 100, 100-6 and 3000 Restoration Guide in paperback and sold at a price that is affordable. A Healey mate in Oz bought a copy back in 2002 for AU $32 ...now copies are available for over US 700, one site for US $1900, which is great for the authors, not for Healey owners. I, unfortunately, cannot afford prices like that. Cheers, Darryl (AH3000 BJ8 Ph2) _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 410407 bytes Desc: not available URL: From editorgary at aol.com Thu May 24 16:01:18 2018 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 18:01:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Anderson-Moment Austin-Healey Restoration Guide References: For those who wonder, Roger and I sold our last copies, at the list price of $29.95, about 15 years ago. Everything that sells now is in the secondary market and we don't make a penny. We wish there could be a further printing, but the publisher unilaterally decided not to do that many years ago, and we don't have the time ourselves to produce a new set of photographs so that a new publisher could do the book, since the original set went down with the original publisher. The How to restore a Healey series is on the club's website, and the concours registry maintains a very detailed restoration guide that is up to date with current knowledge. Those are excellent resources and in many ways better than our book -- just a little more complicated to reference and use. G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -----Original Message----- From: healeys-request To: healeys Sent: Thu, May 24, 2018 11:49 am Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 164 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide (i erbs) 2. Re: Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide (i erbs) 3. seats (i erbs) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 08:00:22 -0700 From: i erbs To: Deejay2650 Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide Message-ID: check out this wonderful site created and maintained by a former Healey owner John Simms. Great resource for all things Healey http://www.healey6.com/important_links.htm Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 9:01 PM, Deejay2650 wrote: > G'day All, > Does anyone on the list know if Gary Anderson and Roger Moment are going > to do a revised and updated version of the 100, 100-6 and 3000 Restoration > Guide in paperback and sold at a price that is affordable. A Healey mate in > Oz bought a copy back in 2002 for AU $32 ...now copies are available for > over US 700, one site for US $1900, which is great for the authors, not for > Healey owners. I, unfortunately, cannot afford prices like that. > Cheers, > Darryl (AH3000 BJ8 Ph2) > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 08:03:14 -0700 From: i erbs To: Deejay2650 Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide Message-ID: go to Healey.org and join the club to get access to *37 part series by Roger Moment with Gary Anderson. Tips on Maintaining, Repairing and Restoring Austin Healeys including with the set up of the work space, tools needed and a description of dismantling, refurbishing and rebuilding the car. You must be a member of the Austin Healey Club, USA. The link takes you to the home page of their site where you can apply, make your dues payment and get the necessary User ID and Password. Money well spent even if you are not restoring a car. Articles can be used for general repairs also.* Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 24 16:24:45 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 15:24:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] seats References: Hmmmm ... I find Healey seats to be reasonably comfortable (with some auxiliary lumbar support).? More-so than some more modern cars I've been in.? You do have to refresh the foam every decade or so. Bob On 5/24/2018 10:12 AM, i erbs wrote: > anyone know what other cars big Healey seats were OEM? > Or were we the only ones to suffer? > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlarson at att.net Thu May 24 17:38:32 2018 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 19:38:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 Restoration Guide References: <01e101d3f326$b5013b60$1f03b220$@tpg.com.au> <9746FD1D-DAF2-486C-9C9C-A805BAB006D9@rogers.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 24 18:19:10 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 17:19:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] seats References: Just new cushions s, pump up lumbar support, new covers and raised the fulcrum point so I can tilt the seat back a few degrees. Have not been able to drive it much at all, but the weather gods will be great this weekend Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Thu, May 24, 2018, 4:35 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > Hmmmm ... I find Healey seats to be reasonably comfortable (with some > auxiliary lumbar support). More-so than some more modern cars I've been > in. You do have to refresh the foam every decade or so. > > Bob > > On 5/24/2018 10:12 AM, i erbs wrote: > > anyone know what other cars big Healey seats were OEM? > Or were we the only ones to suffer? > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 24 20:09:16 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 19:09:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 No, I haven't stuffed a Cummins 6-cyl in my BJ8.? But, my car has started dieseling--aka 'running on'--more than it used to. Compression is high-180PSI give-or-take on all 6--but mixture is good (I think) and idle is usually around 700-750RPM depending on conditions.? Timing is spec (15deg BTDC at 600RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and port on carb plugged).?? I've always run Champion RN12YC plugs, and have never had a problem with them, but I'm wondering if colder plugs might help. Thoughts? Bob From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu May 24 21:16:01 2018 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 13:16:01 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 References: Hello The six-cylinder engine in the BN3 used to do the same and then we took it on some long trips of 500 miles or so. Never happened again. Previously the use the car received was relatively short which allowed for a build-up of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers. The long runs managed to get rid of the deposits. Remember our cars were built in an era when a decoke and valve grind was an annual or biannual event and I suspect that such a thing doesn't happen in this day and age. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, 25 May 2018 12:09 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 No, I haven't stuffed a Cummins 6-cyl in my BJ8. But, my car has started dieseling--aka 'running on'--more than it used to. Compression is high-180PSI give-or-take on all 6--but mixture is good (I think) and idle is usually around 700-750RPM depending on conditions. Timing is spec (15deg BTDC at 600RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and port on carb plugged). I've always run Champion RN12YC plugs, and have never had a problem with them, but I'm wondering if colder plugs might help. Thoughts? Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 24 21:25:19 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 20:25:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 References: <017801d3f3d6$b64ff280$22efd780$@tpg.com.au> Thanks, Patrick.? I have been confined to short--30m or so--trips since I rebuilt the gearbox and OD but I'm getting ready to embark on a long road trip.? Maybe that will fix it. Bob On 5/24/2018 8:16 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello > > The six-cylinder engine in the BN3 used to do the same and then we took it on some long trips of 500 miles or so. Never happened again. > > Previously the use the car received was relatively short which allowed for a build-up of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers. The long runs managed to get rid of the deposits. > > Remember our cars were built in an era when a decoke and valve grind was an annual or biannual event and I suspect that such a thing doesn't happen in this day and age. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Friday, 25 May 2018 12:09 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 > > No, I haven't stuffed a Cummins 6-cyl in my BJ8. But, my car has > started dieseling--aka 'running on'--more than it used to. Compression > is high-180PSI give-or-take on all 6--but mixture is good (I think) and > idle is usually around 700-750RPM depending on conditions. Timing is > spec (15deg BTDC at 600RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and port on carb > plugged). I've always run Champion RN12YC plugs, and have never had a > problem with them, but I'm wondering if colder plugs might help. > > Thoughts? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > > > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 24 21:47:22 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 24 May 2018 20:47:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 References: Add octane boost or find some loaded racing or aviation fuel to add, or regard your timing a click or two on the vernier on the dizzy Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Thu, May 24, 2018, 8:26 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > No, I haven't stuffed a Cummins 6-cyl in my BJ8. But, my car has > started dieseling--aka 'running on'--more than it used to. Compression > is high-180PSI give-or-take on all 6--but mixture is good (I think) and > idle is usually around 700-750RPM depending on conditions. Timing is > spec (15deg BTDC at 600RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and port on carb > plugged). I've always run Champion RN12YC plugs, and have never had a > problem with them, but I'm wondering if colder plugs might help. > > Thoughts? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Fri May 25 08:15:16 2018 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 14:15:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] seats References: I guess the seats can be tilted back on the roadsters, but my BJ8 seats are already slammed up against the quarter panels at the back- if I tried to tilt them back I'd have to move them forward on the seat slides, and then I'd be too far forward...so I just got used to sitting upright.?Introducing the convertible mechanism definitely restricted the seat's travel. Stephen, BJ8 From: i erbs To: Bob Spidell Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 9:02 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] seats Just new cushions s, pump up lumbar support,? new covers and raised the fulcrum point so I can tilt the seat back a few degrees. Have not been able to drive it much at all, but the weather gods will be great this weekend? Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Thu, May 24, 2018, 4:35 PM Bob Spidell wrote: Hmmmm ... I find Healey seats to be reasonably comfortable (with some auxiliary lumbar support).? More-so than some more modern cars I've been in.? You do have to refresh the foam every decade or so. Bob On 5/24/2018 10:12 AM, i erbs wrote: anyone know what other cars big Healey seats were OEM? Or were we the only ones to suffer? Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ??(_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB ? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri May 25 10:03:45 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 09:03:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] seats References: <1632110292.5335229.1527257716339@mail.yahoo.com> <16397e950c2-c8d-8adb@webjas-vab202.srv.aolmail.net> steering wheel is tight already without raising the front of the seats. I had the fulcrum point raise 1/2 " and lowered the seat back hole 1/2" so the seat back tilts back. Also had a pump lumbar support installed when we recovered the seats. Driver seat foam was cut down and hogged out underneath so it crushes, but I think it's still too thick as I sit pretty tall. I have a 1" dense foam seat I sit on. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, May 25, 2018 at 8:27 AM, Keith Pennell wrote: > When replacing the carpeting many years ago I replaced the 1/4 inch wood > strips with wedges - 3/4 at front and 1/4 at rear. Makes the seat back > real close to the quarter panel as you say but tolerable. Not sure if > there is any comfort tilt but theory says there should be!! > > Keith > > -----Original Message----- > From: Stephen Hutchings > To: i erbs ; Bob Spidell > Cc: Ahealey help > Sent: Fri, May 25, 2018 11:21 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] seats > > I guess the seats can be tilted back on the roadsters, but my BJ8 seats > are already slammed up against the quarter panels at the back- if I tried > to tilt them back I'd have to move them forward on the seat slides, and > then I'd be too far forward...so I just got used to sitting upright. > Introducing the convertible mechanism definitely restricted the seat's > travel. > > Stephen, BJ8 > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* i erbs > *To:* Bob Spidell > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 9:02 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] seats > > Just new cushions s, pump up lumbar support, new covers and raised the > fulcrum point so I can tilt the seat back a few degrees. Have not been able > to drive it much at all, but the weather gods will be great this weekend > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Thu, May 24, 2018, 4:35 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > > Hmmmm ... I find Healey seats to be reasonably comfortable (with some > auxiliary lumbar support). More-so than some more modern cars I've been > in. You do have to refresh the foam every decade or so. > Bob > > On 5/24/2018 10:12 AM, i erbs wrote: > > anyone know what other cars big Healey seats were OEM? > Or were we the only ones to suffer? > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep@ > verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Fri May 25 10:19:32 2018 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 17:19:32 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 References: <017801d3f3d6$b64ff280$22efd780$@tpg.com.au> Dose of RedEx? Peter On 25/05/2018 04:16, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello > > The six-cylinder engine in the BN3 used to do the same and then we took it on some long trips of 500 miles or so. Never happened again. > > Previously the use the car received was relatively short which allowed for a build-up of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers. The long runs managed to get rid of the deposits. > > Remember our cars were built in an era when a decoke and valve grind was an annual or biannual event and I suspect that such a thing doesn't happen in this day and age. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Friday, 25 May 2018 12:09 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 > > No, I haven't stuffed a Cummins 6-cyl in my BJ8. But, my car has > started dieseling--aka 'running on'--more than it used to. Compression > is high-180PSI give-or-take on all 6--but mixture is good (I think) and > idle is usually around 700-750RPM depending on conditions. Timing is > spec (15deg BTDC at 600RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and port on carb > plugged). I've always run Champion RN12YC plugs, and have never had a > problem with them, but I'm wondering if colder plugs might help. > > Thoughts? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > > . > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From tld6008 at mchsi.com Fri May 25 15:49:37 2018 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 17:49:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel leak I have a fuel leak on my front carb (HD6) it is coming out of the area below the jet diaphram. I took off the float cover thinking it was leaking past the float jet but that's not the case. I can pour fuel into the float bowl and it leaks out dripping from the flange with the 4 screws connecting it to the main body. I had the carbs rebuilt 4 or 5 years ago and although they haven't been used much this problem is new.Any suggestions? Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri May 25 16:17:07 2018 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 26 May 2018 08:17:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 References: <017801d3f3d6$b64ff280$22efd780$@tpg.com.au> <0e6d437a-b827-6c89-a0a0-4b1de752c742@summaventures.com> Hello Is RedEx in its original formula still available? It was very popular during the 1950s as it helped remove combustion chamber deposits, thus delaying the need for a decoke and valve grind. If you look at the RedEx website it refers to removing deposits on fuel injection injectors, but nothing about combustion chamber carbon deposits. Then again do new modern technology cars develop combustion chamber carbon deposits? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Dzwig Sent: Saturday, 26 May 2018 2:20 AM To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 Dose of RedEx? Peter On 25/05/2018 04:16, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello > > The six-cylinder engine in the BN3 used to do the same and then we took it on some long trips of 500 miles or so. Never happened again. > > Previously the use the car received was relatively short which allowed for a build-up of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers. The long runs managed to get rid of the deposits. > > Remember our cars were built in an era when a decoke and valve grind was an annual or biannual event and I suspect that such a thing doesn't happen in this day and age. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Friday, 25 May 2018 12:09 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 > > No, I haven't stuffed a Cummins 6-cyl in my BJ8. But, my car has > started dieseling--aka 'running on'--more than it used to. Compression > is high-180PSI give-or-take on all 6--but mixture is good (I think) and > idle is usually around 700-750RPM depending on conditions. Timing is > spec (15deg BTDC at 600RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and port on carb > plugged). I've always run Champion RN12YC plugs, and have never had a > problem with them, but I'm wondering if colder plugs might help. > > Thoughts? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > > . > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From rmemler at gmail.com Fri May 25 17:19:32 2018 From: rmemler at gmail.com (Robert Memler) Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 19:19:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 exhaust A friend is restoring an early BJ8 and found out that the as exhaust from Moss did not fit and was told he needed a BJ 7 system. Is this likely or does he need something different. His VIN number is HBJ8L/28763. TIA, Bob Memler 54 BN1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri May 25 19:29:50 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 21:29:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 References: <017801d3f3d6$b64ff280$22efd780$@tpg.com.au> <0e6d437a-b827-6c89-a0a0-4b1de752c742@summaventures.com> Bob Like many old timer Healey folks I have been messing with these beasts for more than 50 years. Every time I had a diesel problem with a personal or customer car it turned out to be one of these things. Accumulated crud on the top of the piston or a slightly burned valve or ignition timing off or air leaks around the intake (rare) or bad gas (low octane gas). You can check the spark plugs while your at it for evidence of an overheated plug. If your concerned about high compression make sure all these other items are in good condition. I run 10.5 to one compression in my 100 on premium pump gas and no fuel additives. Perry > No, I haven't stuffed a Cummins 6-cyl in my BJ8. But, my car has > started dieseling--aka 'running on'--more than it used to. Compression > is high-180PSI give-or-take on all 6--but mixture is good (I think) and > idle is usually around 700-750RPM depending on conditions. Timing is > spec (15deg BTDC at 600RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and port on carb > plugged). I've always run Champion RN12YC plugs, and have never had a > problem with them, but I'm wondering if colder plugs might help. > > Thoughts? > > Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri May 25 23:10:22 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 25 May 2018 22:10:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel leak References: <207535825.333798122.1527284977811.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> Diaphragm is cracked or torn. Bob On 5/25/2018 2:49 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote: > I have a fuel leak on my front carb (HD6) it is coming out of the area > below the jet diaphram. I took off the float cover thinking it was > leaking past the float jet but that's not the case. I can pour fuel > into the float bowl and it leaks out dripping from the flange with the > 4 screws connecting it to the main body. I had the carbs rebuilt 4 or > 5 years ago and although they haven't been used much this problem is new. > Any suggestions? > > > Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat May 26 02:57:13 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 26 May 2018 10:57:13 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 References: <017801d3f3d6$b64ff280$22efd780$@tpg.com.au> <0e6d437a-b827-6c89-a0a0-4b1de752c742@summaventures.com> <007301d3f476$1f8bf2e0$5ea3d8a0$@tpg.com.au> Modern fuels will also leave deposits, although much less than the old stuff. Additives will not change that. Perhaps a water mist through the carbs with a running engine may help to loosen up the carbon and eject it through the exhaust. Modern cars run on lean mixtures which are computer monitored all the time and higher engine temperatures. Our old barges run? on relatively rich mixtures and lower temperatures thus producing more deposites. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-5-2018 om 00:17 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn: > Hello > > Is RedEx in its original formula still available? > > It was very popular during the 1950s as it helped remove combustion chamber > deposits, thus delaying the need for a decoke and valve grind. If you look > at the RedEx website it refers to removing deposits on fuel injection > injectors, but nothing about combustion chamber carbon deposits. > > Then again do new modern technology cars develop combustion chamber carbon > deposits? > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter > Dzwig > Sent: Saturday, 26 May 2018 2:20 AM > To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'Healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 > > Dose of RedEx? > > Peter > > On 25/05/2018 04:16, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: >> Hello >> >> The six-cylinder engine in the BN3 used to do the same and then we took it > on some long trips of 500 miles or so. Never happened again. >> Previously the use the car received was relatively short which allowed for > a build-up of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers. The long runs > managed to get rid of the deposits. >> Remember our cars were built in an era when a decoke and valve grind was > an annual or biannual event and I suspect that such a thing doesn't happen > in this day and age. >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Blue Mountains, Australia >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell >> Sent: Friday, 25 May 2018 12:09 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 >> >> No, I haven't stuffed a Cummins 6-cyl in my BJ8. But, my car has >> started dieseling--aka 'running on'--more than it used to. Compression >> is high-180PSI give-or-take on all 6--but mixture is good (I think) and >> idle is usually around 700-750RPM depending on conditions. Timing is >> spec (15deg BTDC at 600RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and port on carb >> plugged). I've always run Champion RN12YC plugs, and have never had a >> problem with them, but I'm wondering if colder plugs might help. >> >> Thoughts? >> >> Bob >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com >> . >> From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat May 26 03:03:15 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 26 May 2018 09:03:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch References: <1399888336.1441555.1527325395867.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Is the BN2 brake light switch bayonet blade connectors or screw held type?Mike MacLean | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sat May 26 06:46:49 2018 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sat, 26 May 2018 08:46:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 exhaust References: My very early BJ8 had the later exhaust; downpipes that were several inches apart and connected to two separate mufflers, which then connected to two resonators and came out the right side, used to be called the continental system.? BJ7 systems; downpipes are close together and connect to a single muffler which then exhausts straight out on the left side.? The cars over the years can have been modified either way.? Even the outriggers, which need a cutout for the later system could have been changed.? All systems need coaxing to fit. John 64/66 BJ8s On 5/25/2018 7:19 PM, Robert Memler wrote: > A friend is restoring an early BJ8 and found out that the as exhaust > from Moss did not fit and was told he needed a BJ 7 system. Is this > likely or does he need something different. His VIN number is > HBJ8L/28763. > TIA, Bob Memler > 54 BN1 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sat May 26 08:22:03 2018 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 26 May 2018 14:22:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch References: <1399888336.1441555.1527325395867.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <1399888336.1441555.1527325395867@mail.yahoo.com> Screw type. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2018 9:03:15 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Brake light switch Is the BN2 brake light switch bayonet blade connectors or screw held type? Mike MacLean [https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png] Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat May 26 11:36:55 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 26 May 2018 10:36:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 References: <017801d3f3d6$b64ff280$22efd780$@tpg.com.au> <0e6d437a-b827-6c89-a0a0-4b1de752c742@summaventures.com> <007301d3f476$1f8bf2e0$5ea3d8a0$@tpg.com.au> New Minis need to be decoked. Real problem if you dont drive your car on long trips and blow them out. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Sat, May 26, 2018, 2:48 AM Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > Modern fuels will also leave deposits, although much less than the old > stuff. Additives will not change that. Perhaps a water mist through the > carbs with a running engine may help to loosen up the carbon and eject > it through the exhaust. > > Modern cars run on lean mixtures which are computer monitored all the > time and higher engine temperatures. Our old barges run on relatively > rich mixtures and lower temperatures thus producing more deposites. > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > Op 26-5-2018 om 00:17 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn: > > Hello > > > > Is RedEx in its original formula still available? > > > > It was very popular during the 1950s as it helped remove combustion > chamber > > deposits, thus delaying the need for a decoke and valve grind. If you > look > > at the RedEx website it refers to removing deposits on fuel injection > > injectors, but nothing about combustion chamber carbon deposits. > > > > Then again do new modern technology cars develop combustion chamber > carbon > > deposits? > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter > > Dzwig > > Sent: Saturday, 26 May 2018 2:20 AM > > To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'Healeys' > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 > > > > Dose of RedEx? > > > > Peter > > > > On 25/05/2018 04:16, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > >> Hello > >> > >> The six-cylinder engine in the BN3 used to do the same and then we took > it > > on some long trips of 500 miles or so. Never happened again. > >> Previously the use the car received was relatively short which allowed > for > > a build-up of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers. The long runs > > managed to get rid of the deposits. > >> Remember our cars were built in an era when a decoke and valve grind was > > an annual or biannual event and I suspect that such a thing doesn't > happen > > in this day and age. > >> Hoo Roo > >> > >> Patrick Quinn > >> Blue Mountains, Australia > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > > Spidell > >> Sent: Friday, 25 May 2018 12:09 PM > >> To: Healeys > >> Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 > >> > >> No, I haven't stuffed a Cummins 6-cyl in my BJ8. But, my car has > >> started dieseling--aka 'running on'--more than it used to. Compression > >> is high-180PSI give-or-take on all 6--but mixture is good (I think) and > >> idle is usually around 700-750RPM depending on conditions. Timing is > >> spec (15deg BTDC at 600RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and port on carb > >> plugged). I've always run Champion RN12YC plugs, and have never had a > >> problem with them, but I'm wondering if colder plugs might help. > >> > >> Thoughts? > >> > >> Bob > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > >> . > >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Sat May 26 14:54:12 2018 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Sat, 26 May 2018 21:54:12 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 References: <017801d3f3d6$b64ff280$22efd780$@tpg.com.au> <0e6d437a-b827-6c89-a0a0-4b1de752c742@summaventures.com> <007301d3f476$1f8bf2e0$5ea3d8a0$@tpg.com.au> Since I have no idea what the original formulation was, I have no idea! :-) I would think it worth a try as it's still around. But does it presume a petrol engine of a modern design in its current formulation? The Holts website talks about it cleaning the system, rather than simply the injectors... Come to think of it I did stick some in my 100-6 with an unleaded head once upon a time and the car ran fine until I sold it. Well, apart from all the other Healey issues that is ;-) Peter On 25/05/2018 23:17, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello > > Is RedEx in its original formula still available? > > It was very popular during the 1950s as it helped remove combustion chamber > deposits, thus delaying the need for a decoke and valve grind. If you look > at the RedEx website it refers to removing deposits on fuel injection > injectors, but nothing about combustion chamber carbon deposits. > > Then again do new modern technology cars develop combustion chamber carbon > deposits? > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter > Dzwig > Sent: Saturday, 26 May 2018 2:20 AM > To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'Healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 > > Dose of RedEx? > > Peter > > On 25/05/2018 04:16, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: >> Hello >> >> The six-cylinder engine in the BN3 used to do the same and then we took it > on some long trips of 500 miles or so. Never happened again. >> >> Previously the use the car received was relatively short which allowed for > a build-up of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers. The long runs > managed to get rid of the deposits. >> >> Remember our cars were built in an era when a decoke and valve grind was > an annual or biannual event and I suspect that such a thing doesn't happen > in this day and age. >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Blue Mountains, Australia >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell >> Sent: Friday, 25 May 2018 12:09 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 >> >> No, I haven't stuffed a Cummins 6-cyl in my BJ8. But, my car has >> started dieseling--aka 'running on'--more than it used to. Compression >> is high-180PSI give-or-take on all 6--but mixture is good (I think) and >> idle is usually around 700-750RPM depending on conditions. Timing is >> spec (15deg BTDC at 600RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and port on carb >> plugged). I've always run Champion RN12YC plugs, and have never had a >> problem with them, but I'm wondering if colder plugs might help. >> >> Thoughts? >> >> Bob >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com >> >> . >> > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sat May 26 18:31:30 2018 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 26 May 2018 17:31:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] My posts keep getting detained by the moderator Apparently I have too many recipients? WTF? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmags at cox.net Sat May 26 18:51:18 2018 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Sat, 26 May 2018 19:51:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 exhaust Hi Robert, My car is anout 300 cars earlier than yours and came witha BJ7 system as John described. I fit a BJ8 system with no problems and in fact it was Moss's system. Still going strong since about '89 although the rear resonators are needing replaced. No problems fitting it as I recall. Frank '65 BJ8 Sent from my iPad From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat May 26 21:58:08 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 26 May 2018 20:58:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] My posts keep getting detained by the moderator References: I got it. Maybe it was just the miata comment Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sat, May 26, 2018 at 5:31 PM, richard mayor wrote: > Apparently I have too many recipients? WTF? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 27 07:47:07 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 27 May 2018 06:47:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] My posts keep getting detained by the moderator References: I think you can only have 2 or 3 recipients else it gets sanctioned.? If a couple of people have hit 'Reply All' you'll accumulate too many recipients.? Thunderbird lets me 'Reply List;' Bob On 5/26/2018 8:58 PM, i erbs wrote: > I got it. Maybe it was just the miata comment > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun May 27 07:50:04 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 27 May 2018 06:50:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 References: <017801d3f3d6$b64ff280$22efd780$@tpg.com.au> <0e6d437a-b827-6c89-a0a0-4b1de752c742@summaventures.com> <007301d3f476$1f8bf2e0$5ea3d8a0$@tpg.com.au> <5d6ae934-26e0-d1e0-fba7-f83d04c3d1a1@summaventures.com> I don't think that's my problem, as my engine only has about 6,000 miles on it.? When we pulled the engine @ over 100K miles there wasn't a lot of carbon buildup (but that engine had low compression to start).? My recent trips have been relatively short--100 miles or less--and it's possible I got a tank of 'bad' gas. Thanks for all the replies. Bob On 5/26/2018 1:54 PM, Peter Dzwig wrote: > Since I have no idea what the original formulation was, I have no idea! :-) > > I would think it worth a try as it's still around. But does it presume a petrol > engine of a modern design in its current formulation? The Holts website talks > about it cleaning the system, rather than simply the injectors... > > Come to think of it I did stick some in my 100-6 with an unleaded head once upon > a time and the car ran fine until I sold it. Well, apart from all the other > Healey issues that is ;-) > > Peter > > On 25/05/2018 23:17, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: >> Hello >> >> Is RedEx in its original formula still available? >> >> It was very popular during the 1950s as it helped remove combustion chamber >> deposits, thus delaying the need for a decoke and valve grind. If you look >> at the RedEx website it refers to removing deposits on fuel injection >> injectors, but nothing about combustion chamber carbon deposits. >> >> Then again do new modern technology cars develop combustion chamber carbon >> deposits? >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Blue Mountains, Australia >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter >> Dzwig >> Sent: Saturday, 26 May 2018 2:20 AM >> To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'Healeys' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 >> >> Dose of RedEx? >> >> Peter >> >> On 25/05/2018 04:16, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: >>> Hello >>> >>> The six-cylinder engine in the BN3 used to do the same and then we took it >> on some long trips of 500 miles or so. Never happened again. >>> Previously the use the car received was relatively short which allowed for >> a build-up of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers. The long runs >> managed to get rid of the deposits. >>> Remember our cars were built in an era when a decoke and valve grind was >> an annual or biannual event and I suspect that such a thing doesn't happen >> in this day and age. >>> Hoo Roo >>> >>> Patrick Quinn >>> Blue Mountains, Australia >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >>> Sent: Friday, 25 May 2018 12:09 PM >>> To: Healeys >>> Subject: [Healeys] Diesel BJ8 >>> >>> No, I haven't stuffed a Cummins 6-cyl in my BJ8. But, my car has >>> started dieseling--aka 'running on'--more than it used to. Compression >>> is high-180PSI give-or-take on all 6--but mixture is good (I think) and >>> idle is usually around 700-750RPM depending on conditions. Timing is >>> spec (15deg BTDC at 600RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and port on carb >>> plugged). I've always run Champion RN12YC plugs, and have never had a >>> problem with them, but I'm wondering if colder plugs might help. >>> >>> Thoughts? >>> >>> Bob >>> From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun May 27 16:24:34 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 27 May 2018 22:24:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 5 Way Fitting References: <269031951.1756620.1527459874346.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Can someone with a 100 please take a picture of their 5 Way brake fitting in the right front of the engine bay?? I am looking for correct orientation and what the original 5 Way looked like.? I have a new Moss replacement with the blade type brake light switch.? I also have an old 5 Way with an NOS brake light switch.? Funny thing is the NOS switch thread is too large for the Moss brass 5 Way, but it fits the old 5 Way.? Thanks.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deejay2650 at gmail.com Sun May 27 18:47:59 2018 From: deejay2650 at gmail.com (Deejay2650) Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 10:47:59 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 100,100-6,3000 Restoration Guide G'day Listers, Firstly my apologies to Messrs. Anderson and Moment, I didn't know that the publishers were in total control of that publication.I assumed that all royalties went to the authors.I was absolutely wrong and for that I am sorry. Many thanks to all that replied to my inquiry and the excellent advice received. Happy Healying, Darryl '67 HBJ8L41258 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun May 27 19:18:18 2018 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 01:18:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump clicking on... References: <103204418.5886247.1527470298260.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I have a Hardi fuel pump, which is very similar to the S.U. in design- I put it on because when I switched to negative ground I had one on the shelf, and it was ready to go, rather than converting the S.U.After a few thousand miles, it's suddenly started to keep on clicking, rather than the occasional click once it's filled up. I can't find a leak anywhere, and the tank is full...so I don't know how it could be sucking air.Anyone know what to look for next? PS, I got my old S.U. pump and changed the polarity of the diode, but after fiddling with the points the way I used to, I've had no luck getting it going...it had been sitting a while. Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun May 27 22:54:12 2018 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 14:54:12 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] My posts keep getting detained by the moderator References: <65d30064-c93c-1696-0073-1b9af178f174@comcast.net> The limitation on number of recipients is a standard spam/ virus procedure. Many viruses send spam/ virus to all addresses in your contacts. Preventing "bulk mailings" by blocking bulk mail stops lazy spammers and viruses. Best Chris > On 27 May 2018, at 11:47 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: > > I think you can only have 2 or 3 recipients else it gets sanctioned. If a couple of people have hit 'Reply All' you'll accumulate too many recipients. Thunderbird lets me 'Reply List;' > > Bob > >> On 5/26/2018 8:58 PM, i erbs wrote: >> I got it. Maybe it was just the miata comment >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> 1967 MGB >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 28 01:39:52 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 09:39:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] fuel pump clicking on... References: <103204418.5886247.1527470298260.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <103204418.5886247.1527470298260@mail.yahoo.com> Sounds like a valve inside the pump has failed. The SU is really not difficult to get going. Blow and suck through the inlet and outlet to check if the? valves are OK. This is usually the case. If in order do not dismantle the pump body. /*Make sure there is no petrol inside as this can be dangerous when breathing in!!!!!*/ Remove top cover. Mark the relative position of the pump and coil housing. Remove the 6 screws holding pump body and coil housing together,? carefully prise the 3 layer diaphragm loose, taking care not to damage the thin keflar layer, it may need a few light taps on the coil housing. Prise the layers apart and use some talcum powder very sparingly in between the layers. Remove the diaphragm assembly by turning it anti clock wise. Remove the bridge on which the contact points are fitted, remove the contact points (be carefull not to damage the bridge when extracting the case hardened pin) and inspect if they are serviceable. Note the sequence of the various rings. There is also a small lead ring fitted on the brass terminal screw which is a bit awkward to remove. You can replace this later with a ring bend from solder wire. Note down the way the wires/diode or capacitor are fitted. I always replace the diode or capacitor with a transil (limit 18V) to prevent spark erosion. This will also make the pump both positive and negative earth. Use some 400 grade sandpaper to remove the dirt and pits and polish the points with 2000 grade flowerpaper. Also use the flowerpaper to clean the pin. If necessary replace the points and polish them with flowerpaper before fitting. Fit the points, brass screw and bridge but take care not to overtighten the screws as you may crack the bridge, making sure the lower set of points can tumble. Fit the diaphragm, spring by pushing it up in the threaded hole in the lower points assembly, this can be a bit fiddly, and turn the diaphragm clockwise untill the contact point just do not tumble any more when firmly pressing up the diaphragm, than screw it back a bit until? the screw holes line up and than another 4 screw holes. Fit pump and coil housing together using the gasket between the keflar layer of the diaphragm and pump housing (you can make up one yourself if the old one is damaged). Now adjust the points by bending the tabs on the lower points assembly: 0,9mm between the upper points blade and the top of the bridge at the front and 2,3mm between the lower tab and the coil housing. Fit the cap, seal the cap using some tape and you are done. If you have an older pump using Bakelite for the bridge and cap you can repair them using Araldite when there are cracks or breaks. There are some instructive videos on youtube and when Googling you will find instructions for the repair, adjusting of the SU pumps. In older publications you will probably find the 2,3mm gap above should be 1,8mm, just ignore. There are some variations in older contact points which means that the adjustment is a bit different, but it is unlikely that these points are fitted. Again the adjustment specs can be found using Google. In very rare cases the coil has been damaged. This can be replaced. The coils of most SU-pumps are identical and can be swapped. Kees Oudesluijs Op 28-5-2018 om 03:18 schreef Stephen Hutchings: > I have a Hardi fuel pump, which is very similar to the S.U. in design- > I put it on because when I switched to negative ground I had one on > the shelf, and it was ready to go, rather than converting the S.U. > After a few thousand miles, it's suddenly started to keep on clicking, > rather than the occasional click once it's filled up. I can't find a > leak anywhere, and the tank is full...so I don't know how it could be > sucking air. > Anyone know what to look for next? > > PS, I got my old S.U. pump and changed the polarity of the diode, but > after fiddling with the points the way I used to, I've had no luck > getting it going...it had been sitting a while. > > Stephen, BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Mon May 28 09:13:13 2018 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 11:13:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LUMBAR SUPPORT A throw pillow, or a small pillow that acts as a lumbar support covered in a sheep skin made by my wife many years ago has solved most of my back problems when driving the Healey. Her side has one also. Real sheep wool breaths much better than fabric. When I am driving again, am hoping the fittings on the hinge of the back causing a tilt will provide additional help. Bob Begani BJ8 67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon May 28 11:55:44 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 19:55:44 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] LUMBAR SUPPORT References: <012101d3f696$6652dc30$32f89490$@gmail.com> Real sheepskin is bliss in an open sports car with seats upholstered in leather or vinyl. I have complete covers in my J-H since 1977. Warm in winter and relatively cool in summer as it does breathe to some extend. Kees Oudesluijs Op 28-5-2018 om 17:13 schreef Robert Begani: > > A throw pillow, or a small pillow that acts as a lumbar support > covered in a sheep skin made by my wife many years ago has solved most > of my back problems when driving the Healey.? Her side has one also.? > Real sheep wool breaths much better than fabric. ?When I am driving > again, am hoping the fittings on the hinge of the back causing a tilt > will provide additional help. > > Bob Begani > > BJ8 67 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon May 28 19:14:15 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 18:14:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LUMBAR SUPPORT References: <012101d3f696$6652dc30$32f89490$@gmail.com> I cut off and welded on a .5" extension to the fulcrum bolt on the seat base and had an inflatable lumbar support added below the seat back material when I had the seats recovered. I also drilled a hole in the seat back sides .5 inch higher, this too increased the set back rake. I am going to put the bolt back in the oem ho;e as the seat back tilts too fart backwards now. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 8:13 AM, Robert Begani wrote: > A throw pillow, or a small pillow that acts as a lumbar support covered in > a sheep skin made by my wife many years ago has solved most of my back > problems when driving the Healey. Her side has one also. Real sheep wool > breaths much better than fabric. When I am driving again, am hoping the > fittings on the hinge of the back causing a tilt will provide additional > help. > > > > Bob Begani > > BJ8 67 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon May 28 20:06:14 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 22:06:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LUMBAR SUPPORT References: <012101d3f696$6652dc30$32f89490$@gmail.com> Listers You can use a lumbar support that you can buy from office supply retailers. Wire rim with fabric and an elastic band that holds it on the seat. But it provides adequate support and its easily removable. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: i erbs Sent: Monday, May 28, 2018 9:40 PM To: Robert Begani Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] LUMBAR SUPPORT I cut off and welded on a .5" extension to the fulcrum bolt on the seat base and had an inflatable lumbar support added below the seat back material when I had the seats recovered. I also drilled a hole in the seat back sides .5 inch higher, this too increased the set back rake. I am going to put the bolt back in the oem ho;e as the seat back tilts too fart backwards now. Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB ? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 8:13 AM, Robert Begani wrote: A throw pillow, or a small pillow that acts as a lumbar support covered in a sheep skin made by my wife many years ago has solved most of my back problems when driving the Healey.? Her side has one also.? Real sheep wool breaths much better than fabric.? When I am driving again, am hoping the fittings on the hinge of the back causing a tilt will provide additional help. ? Bob Begani BJ8 67 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com Mon May 28 20:53:24 2018 From: JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com (Jim Frakes) Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 22:53:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 exhaust References: <05b2e988-b006-bdc5-0744-01128515e262@htcnet.org> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon May 28 22:55:53 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 04:55:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Sidecurtain Deal of the Century References: <1362273521.2170800.1527569753782.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Well, at least in this century so far.? Today I bagged a pair of new in the package 100 side curtains for $200!? In addition this guy had a 100 engine on the floor converted to Le Mans configuration.? It had the H6 carbs and Le Mans distributor, pistons, valve springs, etc.? It even had a period correct Lucas sport coil.? I asked him if it was for sale.? I don't think he really wants to sell it because he threw out an incredible $5000 price.? He said he wanted to build a British style hill climb racer with it.? Damn it!Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20180528_215502.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3006811 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon May 28 23:10:25 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 22:10:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey home A bit over a year ago, my house had a water leak and we moved out of our house for 4.5 months. soon after we moved back in and I cleaned out the side I park my Healey in, we purchased a 67 MGB. It took the empty space. It has taken until this weekend to clean out the other side of my garage and I brought my car home for good. The weather this weekend was perfect driving weather so I also got in some short drives through the trees. Happy to have the beast home. The Oregon club is meeting up with Washington club to drive to Vancouver Island BC for a four day Northwest Meet. June 21-24,2018 Sooke, BC. If anyone wants to join us, visit the BC Healey club site for info, or the Oregon Healey site Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Tue May 29 07:12:31 2018 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 09:12:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LUMBAR SUPPORT nothing more uncomfortable than a fart that tilts backwards . . . . . .:):):) -----Original Message----- From: i erbs To: Robert Begani Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Mon, May 28, 2018 9:49 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] LUMBAR SUPPORT I cut off and welded on a .5" extension to the fulcrum bolt on the seat base and had an inflatable lumbar support added below the seat back material when I had the seats recovered. I also drilled a hole in the seat back sides .5 inch higher, this too increased the set back rake. I am going to put the bolt back in the oem ho;e as the seat back tilts too fart backwards now. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, May 28, 2018 at 8:13 AM, Robert Begani wrote: A throw pillow, or a small pillow that acts as a lumbar support covered in a sheep skin made by my wife many years ago has solved most of my back problems when driving the Healey. Her side has one also. Real sheep wool breaths much better than fabric. When I am driving again, am hoping the fittings on the hinge of the back causing a tilt will provide additional help. Bob Begani BJ8 67 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue May 29 07:13:50 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 06:13:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sidecurtain Deal of the Century References: <1362273521.2170800.1527569753782.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1362273521.2170800.1527569753782@mail.yahoo.com> I'd say $5K is a reasonable price for that engine, if not downright cheap. Bob On 5/28/2018 9:55 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > > Well, at least in this century so far.? Today I bagged a pair of new > in the package 100 side curtains for $200!? In addition this guy had a > 100 engine on the floor converted to Le Mans configuration.? It had > the H6 carbs and Le Mans distributor, pistons, valve springs, etc.? It > even had a period correct Lucas sport coil.? I asked him if it was for > sale.? I don't think he really wants to sell it because he threw out > an incredible $5000 price.? He said he wanted to build a British style > hill climb racer with it.? Damn it! > Mike MacLean > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue May 29 08:30:56 2018 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 14:30:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Sidecurtain Deal of the Century References: <1362273521.2170800.1527569753782.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1362273521.2170800.1527569753782@mail.yahoo.com>, <79b53b85-f543-dcd5-5948-a7f2a9f11048@comcast.net> Michael, I doubt that the engine could be rebuilt for under $5000.00 given the list of parts that he replaced etc. Unless he is not counting his own time. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 On 5/28/2018 9:55 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: [cid:0d3cb5ae-1ada-4ace-aefb-27f3535ce733] Well, at least in this century so far. Today I bagged a pair of new in the package 100 side curtains for $200! In addition this guy had a 100 engine on the floor converted to Le Mans configuration. It had the H6 carbs and Le Mans distributor, pistons, valve springs, etc. It even had a period correct Lucas sport coil. I asked him if it was for sale. I don't think he really wants to sell it because he threw out an incredible $5000 price. He said he wanted to build a British style hill climb racer with it. Damn it! Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 29 08:41:19 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 14:41:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Sidecurtain Deal of the Century References: <1362273521.2170800.1527569753782.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1362273521.2170800.1527569753782@mail.yahoo.com> <79b53b85-f543-dcd5-5948-a7f2a9f11048@comcast.net> Well, add the price of a rebuild and carb restoration, etc.? I have already converted a 100 engine to a patial Le Mans spec with new Burlen H6 carbs, cold air box and a recurved 100-4 distributor from Advanced Distributor.? Seeing how this car is not going to be a concours car, I can't justify the added expense at this point and he really does not want to sell it anyway.Mike On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 7:23 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: I'd say $5K is a reasonable price for that engine, if not downright cheap. Bob On 5/28/2018 9:55 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Well, at least in this century so far.? Today I bagged a pair of new in the package 100 side curtains for $200!? In addition this guy had a 100 engine on the floor converted to Le Mans configuration.? It had the H6 carbs and Le Mans distributor, pistons, valve springs, etc.? It even had a period correct Lucas sport coil.? I asked him if it was for sale.? I don't think he really wants to sell it because he threw out an incredible $5000 price.? He said he wanted to build a British style hill climb racer with it.? Damn it! Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue May 29 09:21:48 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 16:21:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Sidecurtain Deal of the Century References: <1362273521.2170800.1527569753782.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1362273521.2170800.1527569753782@mail.yahoo.com> <79b53b85-f543-dcd5-5948-a7f2a9f11048@comcast.net> Yes, surely that?s cheap? You didn?t say what condition it was in, but that sounds very cheap by our standards (UK). Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 29 May 2018 14:14 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sidecurtain Deal of the Century I'd say $5K is a reasonable price for that engine, if not downright cheap. Bob On 5/28/2018 9:55 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Well, at least in this century so far. Today I bagged a pair of new in the package 100 side curtains for $200! In addition this guy had a 100 engine on the floor converted to Le Mans configuration. It had the H6 carbs and Le Mans distributor, pistons, valve springs, etc. It even had a period correct Lucas sport coil. I asked him if it was for sale. I don't think he really wants to sell it because he threw out an incredible $5000 price. He said he wanted to build a British style hill climb racer with it. Damn it! Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 29 09:29:39 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 15:29:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <2122859199.2326016.1527607779879.ref@mail.yahoo.com> This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the gauge.? As suspected, the plastic float was filled with gasoline.? Ethanol!? While replacing the plastic float for brass and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using Hylomar AF to seal things up.? The big surprise came when I found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline.? Must have entered through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever.? Anyone have experience with this?? Should I be concerned?? I remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat like it had also been filled with gasoline.? Anyone have experience with this?Mike MacLean | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 29 12:07:56 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 18:07:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Sidecurtain Deal of the Century References: <1362273521.2170800.1527569753782.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1362273521.2170800.1527569753782@mail.yahoo.com> <79b53b85-f543-dcd5-5948-a7f2a9f11048@comcast.net> <000001d3f760$c44d7cd0$4ce87670$@alexarevel.plus.com> The motor turned over freely.? He was preparing to try starting it there on the floor.Mike Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 10:29 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue May 29 13:24:25 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 15:24:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <2122859199.2326016.1527607779879.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2122859199.2326016.1527607779879@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, Not surprised. There isn't any seal where the shaft sticks out of the housing. Just depends on how full the tank is. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 05/29/2018 11:29 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit on my > Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the gauge.? As > suspected, the plastic float was filled with gasoline.? Ethanol!? While > replacing the plastic float for brass and the cork gaskets for Viton > type gaskets, I also swapped out the sending unit top cover cork gasket > with a Viton type using Hylomar AF to seal things up.? The big surprise > came when I found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline.? Must have > entered through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. > Anyone have experience with this?? Should I be concerned?? I remember > the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye tank was full of a > white powdery residue around the rheostat like it had also been filled > with gasoline.? Anyone have experience with this? > Mike MacLean > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue May 29 13:30:15 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 21:30:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <2122859199.2326016.1527607779879.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2122859199.2326016.1527607779879@mail.yahoo.com> The plastic floats do leak after a while as the steel wire-arm wears through the plastic at the end of the wire float lever which usually is very sharp. When fitting a new float file the end of the lever smooth to prevent it happening again. Nothing to do with ethanol. The sender unit always fills up with petrol, it is not fluid tight. Again, no problem. The plastic floats can be found in many European cars, not only UK cars. You can also use a Champagne cork. Kees Oudesluijs Op 29-5-2018 om 17:29 schreef Michael MacLean: > This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit on my > Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the gauge. As > suspected, the plastic float was filled with gasoline. Ethanol!? While > replacing the plastic float for brass and the cork gaskets for Viton > type gaskets, I also swapped out the sending unit top cover cork > gasket with a Viton type using Hylomar AF to seal things up.? The big > surprise came when I found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline.? Must > have entered through the hole in the sending unit body for the float > lever.? Anyone have experience with this?? Should I be concerned?? I > remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye tank was > full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat like it had also > been filled with gasoline.? Anyone have experience with this? > Mike MacLean > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Tue May 29 13:46:31 2018 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 15:46:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for brass and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have experience with this?Mike MacLean Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 29 13:54:48 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 19:54:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> Don't do it.? It will fill with gas in about two years and you will be doing this again.? All you have to do is buy a brass float and swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford dealer.? Ethanol does not eat brass.Mike M. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote: #yiv7788951441 body {min-height:100%;color:#000000;font-size:12pt;font-family:Times New Roman;}I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the gauge.? As suspected, the plastic float was filled with gasoline.? Ethanol!? While replacing the plastic float for brass and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using Hylomar AF to seal things up.? The big surprise came when I found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline.? Must have entered through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever.? Anyone have experience with this?? Should I be concerned?? I remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat like it had also been filled with gasoline.? Anyone have experience with this?Mike MacLean | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Tue May 29 14:11:50 2018 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 16:11:50 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol Thanks for the info. My original brass float is still good why, couldn't I just swap the float and wire arm extension? Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: tld6008 at mchsi.com Cc: Healey List Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 15:54:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you will be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass.Mike M. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote:I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for brass and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have experience with this?Mike MacLean Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 29 15:26:27 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 21:26:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1306268504.356566088.1527624710291.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> No reason you can't Tim.? If you already have a brass float, just reuse it if it fits.? Did not know you were using one already.Mike M. On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 1:11 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote: #yiv0890513508 body {min-height:100%;color:#000000;font-size:12pt;font-family:Times New Roman;}Thanks for the info. My original brass float is still good why, couldn't I just swap the float and wire arm extension? Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: tld6008 at mchsi.com Cc: Healey List Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 15:54:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol Don't do it.? It will fill with gas in about two years and you will be doing this again.? All you have to do is buy a brass float and swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford dealer.? Ethanol does not eat brass.Mike M. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote:I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the gauge.? As suspected, the plastic float was filled with gasoline.? Ethanol!? While replacing the plastic float for brass and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using Hylomar AF to seal things up.? The big surprise came when I found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline.? Must have entered through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever.? Anyone have experience with this?? Should I be concerned?? I remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat like it had also been filled with gasoline.? Anyone have experience with this?Mike MacLean | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Tue May 29 17:38:13 2018 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 09:38:13 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM To: tld6008 at mchsi.com Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you will be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. Mike M. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote: I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for brass and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have experience with this? Mike MacLean Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue May 29 18:25:33 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 00:25:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law.? Right now gasoline is going for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon.? If you want fuel without ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles.Mike M Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe wrote: #yiv9385715354 #yiv9385715354 -- _filtered #yiv9385715354 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv9385715354 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv9385715354 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}#yiv9385715354 #yiv9385715354 p.yiv9385715354MsoNormal, #yiv9385715354 li.yiv9385715354MsoNormal, #yiv9385715354 div.yiv9385715354MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv9385715354 a:link, #yiv9385715354 span.yiv9385715354MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9385715354 a:visited, #yiv9385715354 span.yiv9385715354MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9385715354 span.yiv9385715354EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv9385715354 .yiv9385715354MsoChpDefault {} _filtered #yiv9385715354 {margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;}#yiv9385715354 div.yiv9385715354WordSection1 {}#yiv9385715354 As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. John Rowe Qld Australia ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM To: tld6008 at mchsi.com Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol ? Don't do it.? It will fill with gas in about two years and you will be doing this again.? All you have to do is buy a brass float and swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford dealer.? Ethanol does not eat brass. Mike M. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote: I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. ? Tim Davis BN7 ? ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol ? This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the gauge.? As suspected, the plastic float was filled with gasoline.? Ethanol!? While replacing the plastic float for brass and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using Hylomar AF to seal things up.? The big surprise came when I found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline.? Must have entered through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever.? Anyone have experience with this?? Should I be concerned?? I remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat like it had also been filled with gasoline.? Anyone have experience with this? Mike MacLean ? | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | ? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Tue May 29 20:04:11 2018 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 12:04:11 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. John Rowe Qld Australia From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM To: john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law. Right now gasoline is going for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon. If you want fuel without ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. Mike M Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe wrote: As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM To: tld6008 at mchsi.com Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you will be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. Mike M. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote: I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for brass and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have experience with this? Mike MacLean Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Tue May 29 20:06:40 2018 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 22:06:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN7 choke Can anyone supply a photo or details of how the choke cable on a 1960 BN7 with HD6 carburetors should be run. I bought a Moss choke cable several years ago and it has never seemed right it either is too long or is missing a bracket to fix it in position between the firewall and the trunion on the carb Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue May 29 22:46:21 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 29 May 2018 21:46:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <2122859199.2326016.1527607779879.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2122859199.2326016.1527607779879@mail.yahoo.com> Love it! Just don?t tell the concours inspectors. John Spaur ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2018 12:30 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol ? You can also use a Champagne cork (for a fuel sender float). Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed May 30 03:59:52 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 05:59:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol. One can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at the pump. Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a label on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in Indiana. A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported and another market for corn. Not sure I agree with using a foodstuff, but that's what's been done. The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the price differential between grades of gasoline. For years the mid grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another 10 cents. In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents between grades. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: > OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to > make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. > For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. > > At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), > why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. > > John Rowe Qld Australia > > *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] > *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM > *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com > *Cc:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law.? Right now gasoline is going for > an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon.? If you want fuel without > ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon and > it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. > > Mike M > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe > > wrote: > > As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, > or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. > > John Rowe > > Qld Australia > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael MacLean > *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM > *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > Don't do it.? It will fill with gas in about two years and you will > be doing this again.? All you have to do is buy a brass float and > swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just > snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You > can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford > dealer.? Ethanol does not eat brass. > > Mike M. > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 > > wrote: > > I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one > from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. > > > Tim Davis BN7 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael MacLean > To: Healey List > Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit > on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the > gauge.? As suspected, the plastic float was filled with > gasoline.? Ethanol!? While replacing the plastic float for brass > and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out > the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using > Hylomar AF to seal things up.? The big surprise came when I > found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline.? Must have entered > through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. > Anyone have experience with this?? Should I be concerned?? I > remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye > tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat > like it had also been filled with gasoline.? Anyone have > experience with this? > > Mike MacLean > > Image removed by sender. > > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed May 30 04:55:06 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 11:55:06 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up by some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country enforcing it. As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more mileage for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my buck/better value for money..whatever. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 To: John Rowe Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol. One can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at the pump. Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a label on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in Indiana. A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported and another market for corn. Not sure I agree with using a foodstuff, but that's what's been done. The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the price differential between grades of gasoline. For years the mid grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another 10 cents. In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents between grades. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: > OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to > make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. > For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. > > At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), > why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. > > John Rowe Qld Australia > > *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] > *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM > *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com > *Cc:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law. Right now gasoline is going > for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon. If you want fuel without > ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon > and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. > > Mike M > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo > bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> > > On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe > > wrote: > > As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, > or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. > > John Rowe > > Qld Australia > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael MacLean > *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM > *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you will > be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and > swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just > snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You > can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford > dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. > > Mike M. > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo > bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> > > On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 > > wrote: > > I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one > from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. > > > Tim Davis BN7 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Michael MacLean > To: Healey List > Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit > on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the > gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with > gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for brass > and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out > the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using > Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I > found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered > through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. > Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I > remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye > tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat > like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have > experience with this? > > Mike MacLean > > Image removed by sender. > > tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Wed May 30 06:55:51 2018 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 12:55:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net>, <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> FWIW I get about 10% better mileage on 93 octane in KY then the 91 octane in Calif. of course it is also cheaper for 93 in KY and unobtainium in Calif. Also I run ethanol free in KY as well which is available and saves my mowers, outboards and other small gas mowers which the ethanol virtually destroy. Regards, Richard C > On May 30, 2018, at 6:57 AM, "simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com" wrote: > > The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up by some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country enforcing it. > As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more mileage for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my buck/better value for money..whatever. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell > Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 > To: John Rowe > Cc: 'Healey List' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol. One can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at the pump. Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a label on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in Indiana. > > A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported and another market for corn. Not sure I agree with using a foodstuff, but that's what's been done. > > The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the price differential between grades of gasoline. For years the mid grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another 10 cents. In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents between grades. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >> On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: >> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to >> make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. >> For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. >> >> At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), >> why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. >> >> John Rowe Qld Australia >> >> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] >> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM >> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com >> *Cc:* 'Healey List' >> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law. Right now gasoline is going >> for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon. If you want fuel without >> ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon >> and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. >> >> Mike M >> >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >> > th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >> >> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe >> >> wrote: >> >> As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, >> or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. >> >> John Rowe >> >> Qld Australia >> >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of >> *Michael MacLean >> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM >> *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com >> *Cc:* Healey List >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you will >> be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and >> swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just >> snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You >> can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford >> dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. >> >> Mike M. >> >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> > th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >> >> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 >> >> wrote: >> >> I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one >> from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. >> >> >> Tim Davis BN7 >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Michael MacLean >> To: Healey List >> Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) >> Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit >> on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the >> gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with >> gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for brass >> and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out >> the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using >> Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I >> found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered >> through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. >> Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I >> remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye >> tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat >> like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have >> experience with this? >> >> Mike MacLean >> >> Image removed by sender. >> >> > tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> >> >> >> >> Virus-free. www.avg.com >> >> > tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed May 30 06:56:52 2018 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 12:56:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> The crazy thing about ethanol is it just seems to be filler- I mean , because of the reduced mileage, you end up burning pretty well the same amount of petroleum product. Here in Ontario, Canada we can still get non-ethanol fuel, but when I drove a van across the States I noticed I got poorer mileage with the ethanol fuel. Stephen, BJ8 From: Bob Haskell To: John Rowe Cc: 'Healey List' Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 6:00 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol.? One can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at the pump.? Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a label on the pump is required.? I don't think that it's required in Indiana. A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported and another market for corn.? Not sure I agree with using a foodstuff, but that's what's been done. The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the price differential between grades of gasoline.? For years the mid grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another 10 cents.? In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents between grades. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: > OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to > make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. > For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. > > At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), > why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. > > John Rowe Qld Australia > > *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] > *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM > *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com > *Cc:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law.? Right now gasoline is going for > an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon.? If you want fuel without > ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon and > it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. > > Mike M > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > >? ? On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe > >? ? wrote: > >? ? As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, >? ? or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. > >? ? John Rowe > >? ? Qld Australia > >? ? *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of >? ? *Michael MacLean >? ? *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM >? ? *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com >? ? *Cc:* Healey List >? ? *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > >? ? Don't do it.? It will fill with gas in about two years and you will >? ? be doing this again.? All you have to do is buy a brass float and >? ? swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just >? ? snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You >? ? can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford >? ? dealer.? Ethanol does not eat brass. > >? ? Mike M. > >? ? Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >? ? > >? ? ? ? On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 > >? ? ? ? wrote: > >? ? ? ? I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one >? ? ? ? from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. > > >? ? ? ? Tim Davis BN7 > >? ? ? ? ----- Original Message ----- >? ? ? ? From: Michael MacLean >? ? ? ? To: Healey List >? ? ? ? Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) >? ? ? ? Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > >? ? ? ? This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit >? ? ? ? on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the >? ? ? ? gauge.? As suspected, the plastic float was filled with >? ? ? ? gasoline.? Ethanol!? While replacing the plastic float for brass >? ? ? ? and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out >? ? ? ? the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using >? ? ? ? Hylomar AF to seal things up.? The big surprise came when I >? ? ? ? found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline.? Must have entered >? ? ? ? through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. >? ? ? ? Anyone have experience with this?? Should I be concerned?? I >? ? ? ? remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye >? ? ? ? tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat >? ? ? ? like it had also been filled with gasoline.? Anyone have >? ? ? ? experience with this? > >? ? ? ? Mike MacLean > >? ? ? ? Image removed by sender. >? ? ? ? > >? ? ? ? ??? > >? ? ? ? Virus-free. www.avg.com >? ? ? ? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed May 30 07:00:16 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 06:00:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> Ethanol is required because large agribusinesses have lobbied for it as a revenue stream. It takes a lot of oil to produce ethanol. The US is now an exporter of oil due to pressure from the Koch brothers. Follow the money... Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Wed, May 30, 2018, 3:29 AM Bob Haskell wrote: > One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; > Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol. One > can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at the > pump. Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a label > on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in Indiana. > > A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported and > another market for corn. Not sure I agree with using a foodstuff, but > that's what's been done. > > The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the > price differential between grades of gasoline. For years the mid grade > was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another 10 > cents. In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents > between grades. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: > > OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to > > make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. > > For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. > > > > At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), > > why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. > > > > John Rowe Qld Australia > > > > *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] > > *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM > > *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com > > *Cc:* 'Healey List' > > *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > > > Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law. Right now gasoline is going for > > an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon. If you want fuel without > > ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon and > > it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. > > > > Mike M > > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > < > https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature > > > > > > On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe > > > > wrote: > > > > As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, > > or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. > > > > John Rowe > > > > Qld Australia > > > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > > *Michael MacLean > > *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM > > *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com > > *Cc:* Healey List > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > > > Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you will > > be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and > > swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just > > snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You > > can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford > > dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. > > > > Mike M. > > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > < > https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature > > > > > > On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 > > > > wrote: > > > > I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one > > from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. > > > > > > Tim Davis BN7 > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Michael MacLean > > To: Healey List > > Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) > > Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > > > This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit > > on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the > > gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with > > gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for brass > > and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out > > the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using > > Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I > > found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered > > through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. > > Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I > > remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye > > tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat > > like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have > > experience with this? > > > > Mike MacLean > > > > Image removed by sender. > > < > http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail > > > > > > > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > < > http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Wed May 30 07:42:23 2018 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 09:42:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal I'd like to replace rubber gasket between the windshield and body on my BJ8. >From the archives, the job looks like a PITA. Is this job normally done with the windshield in place, and I slide the new seal in a little at a time? Or should I remove the windowshield/frame from the car and install the new seal? It looks like the windshield frame attaches to the body with three bolts on either side... would removing the windshield from the car, putting the seal in place with the windshield off, then putting the whole thing back on be easier? thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed May 30 09:26:25 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 11:26:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal References: I found it hard enough to install a new seal with the frame off the car. I think it would be impossible without removing the frame. The problem I had was that it was easy enough to get the seal into the channel on the straight section, but when trying to press it into the channel on the curves, the seal wanted to twist itself back out of the channel. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 9:42 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal I'd like to replace rubber gasket between the windshield and body on my BJ8. >From the archives, the job looks like a PITA. Is this job normally done with the windshield in place, and I slide the new seal in a little at a time? Or should I remove the windowshield/frame from the car and install the new seal? It looks like the windshield frame attaches to the body with three bolts on either side... would removing the windshield from the car, putting the seal in place with the windshield off, then putting the whole thing back on be easier? thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com Wed May 30 09:36:47 2018 From: JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com (Jim Frakes) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 11:36:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal References: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed May 30 09:39:59 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 17:39:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> The better mileage on pure petrol is only theoretical. In practice you will not notice at all. Ethanol has a lower energy content so you would require more ethanol than petrol for a given amount of energy. However there is only 5% maximum in petrol unless stated otherwise in Europe and a small bit of 5% is negligible and well within the tolerance of the accuracy of the measurement. I very much doubt if one can register an increase of 1% in mileage. There are so many other factors influencing mileage. Kees Oudesluijs Op 30-5-2018 om 12:55 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: > The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up by some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country enforcing it. > As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more mileage for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my buck/better value for money..whatever. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell > Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 > To: John Rowe > Cc: 'Healey List' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol. One can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at the pump. Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a label on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in Indiana. > > A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported and another market for corn. Not sure I agree with using a foodstuff, but that's what's been done. > > The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the price differential between grades of gasoline. For years the mid grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another 10 cents. In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents between grades. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: >> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to >> make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. >> For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. >> >> At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), >> why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. >> >> John Rowe Qld Australia >> >> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] >> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM >> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com >> *Cc:* 'Healey List' >> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law. Right now gasoline is going >> for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon. If you want fuel without >> ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon >> and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. >> >> Mike M >> >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >> > th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >> >> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe >> >> wrote: >> >> As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, >> or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. >> >> John Rowe >> >> Qld Australia >> >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of >> *Michael MacLean >> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM >> *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com >> *Cc:* Healey List >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you will >> be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and >> swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just >> snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You >> can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford >> dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. >> >> Mike M. >> >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> > th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >> >> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 >> >> wrote: >> >> I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one >> from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. >> >> >> Tim Davis BN7 >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Michael MacLean >> To: Healey List >> Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) >> Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit >> on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the >> gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with >> gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for brass >> and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out >> the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using >> Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I >> found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered >> through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. >> Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I >> remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye >> tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat >> like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have >> experience with this? >> >> Mike MacLean >> >> Image removed by sender. >> >> > tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> >> >> >> >> Virus-free. www.avg.com >> >> > tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From javrugtman at htcnet.org Wed May 30 09:41:40 2018 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 11:41:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal References: Replacing the seal with the windshield in place will qualify you for a "Master Magician title" On 5/30/2018 9:42 AM, Tom wrote: > I'd like to replace rubber gasket between the windshield and body on > my BJ8. > > From the archives, the job looks like a PITA.? Is this job normally > done with the windshield in place, and I slide the new seal in a > little at a time? > > Or should I remove the windowshield/frame from the car and install the > new seal?? It looks like the windshield frame attaches to the body > with three bolts on either side...? would removing the windshield from > the car, putting the seal in place with the windshield off, then > putting the whole thing back on be easier? > > thanks, > > Tom > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed May 30 10:00:41 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 09:00:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal References: Remove the frame from the car and take it to a windshield glass shop and have them replace the seal. You will spend hours and hours and most likely ruin at least one seal trying to install yourself. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Tom Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 6:42 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal I'd like to replace rubber gasket between the windshield and body on my BJ8. >From the archives, the job looks like a PITA. Is this job normally done with the windshield in place, and I slide the new seal in a little at a time? Or should I remove the windowshield/frame from the car and install the new seal? It looks like the windshield frame attaches to the body with three bolts on either side... would removing the windshield from the car, putting the seal in place with the windshield off, then putting the whole thing back on be easier? thanks, Tom -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed May 30 10:11:26 2018 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 16:11:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal References: <035e01d3f82a$9637a3a0$c2a6eae0$@rr.com> No Question, the whole assembly has to come off the car.You'll need something thin, but blunt, to push the rubber into the channel- like a thick butter knife that's been ground blunt. I tried using something plastic, but it takes a fair amount of force in places and plastic tends to break. Good luck, I hope I never have to do that job again! Stephen, BJ8 From: BJ8Healeys To: 'Healey Mail List' Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 11:56 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal #yiv6454100347 #yiv6454100347 -- _filtered #yiv6454100347 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6454100347 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6454100347 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6454100347 {font-family:Sans;panose-1:3 15 7 2 3 3 2 2 2 4;}#yiv6454100347 #yiv6454100347 p.yiv6454100347MsoNormal, #yiv6454100347 li.yiv6454100347MsoNormal, #yiv6454100347 div.yiv6454100347MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv6454100347 a:link, #yiv6454100347 span.yiv6454100347MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6454100347 a:visited, #yiv6454100347 span.yiv6454100347MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6454100347 p.yiv6454100347MsoAcetate, #yiv6454100347 li.yiv6454100347MsoAcetate, #yiv6454100347 div.yiv6454100347MsoAcetate {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;}#yiv6454100347 span.yiv6454100347EmailStyle17 {font-family:Sans;color:#002060;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv6454100347 span.yiv6454100347BalloonTextChar {}#yiv6454100347 .yiv6454100347MsoChpDefault {} _filtered #yiv6454100347 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv6454100347 div.yiv6454100347WordSection1 {}#yiv6454100347 I found it hard enough to install a? new seal with the frame off the car.? I think it would be impossible without removing the frame.The problem I had was that it was easy enough to get the seal into the channel on the straight section, but when trying to press it into the channel on the curves, the seal wanted to twist itself back out of the channel. ?Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC? ? ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 9:42 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal ?I'd like to replace rubber gasket between the windshield and body on my BJ8.? ? ?From the archives, the job looks like a PITA.? Is this job normally done with the windshield in place, and I slide the new seal in a little at a time?? ? ?Or should I remove the windowshield/frame from the car and install the new seal?? It looks like the windshield frame attaches to the body with three bolts on either side...? would removing the windshield from the car, putting the seal in place with the windshield off, then putting the whole thing back on be easier? ?thanks, ?Tom_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 55healey at comcast.net Wed May 30 10:16:40 2018 From: 55healey at comcast.net (ROBERT A WESTCOTT) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 09:16:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> You can find non-ethanol gas in the states but you have to search for it. Here is one of the web sites that will help you find it : http://www.buyrealgas.com/ And another that includes Canada : https://www.pure-gas.org/ I always look ahead and plan my gas stops at these stations. The cars and lawn equipment love it. It?s worth the premium price. It will also last at least a year without using products like Stabil. Rob > On May 30, 2018, at 6:00 AM, i erbs wrote: > > Ethanol is required because large agribusinesses have lobbied for it as a revenue stream. It takes a lot of oil to produce ethanol. The US is now an exporter of oil due to pressure from the Koch brothers. Follow the money... > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR From amalin at mac.com Wed May 30 10:56:57 2018 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 12:56:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal References: <793d7cad798140368b23b3018c64b9ea@S14.frakes-eng.com> "Rubber gasket needs soapy water or some kind of slick-em on both the rubber and the track? Jack Summer helped me with mine. He liked to use K-Y Jelly - it does the job and, additionally, provides humor during the installation. Al Malin Tricarb > On May 30, 2018, at 11:36 AM, Jim Frakes wrote: > > Yes, I have done it and getting to do it again on my latest restoration. My advice, pay particular attention to the shims on either side when you ubolt. PUT THEM BACK IN ORDER AND DON?T MIX THEM UP. ANY CHANGE CAN CAUSE A WINDSHIELD CRACK TO DEVELOP. I did not have the problem until a couple years later when a large crack ran across the windshield. > Rubber gasket; need soapy water or some kind of slick-em on both the rubber and the track. And patience. > Jim > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Tom > Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 9:42 AM > To: Healey Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Replacing BJ8 windshield seal From jpaynepbr at cox.net Wed May 30 11:25:40 2018 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 10:25:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> I make and have made a weekly trip from Las Vegas, NV to Kingman AZ for 5 years and running in a variety of vehicles (2 different Ford Expeditions, Chevy SS, Toyota Tacoma pickup, Triumph TR6, Dodge Magnum Wagon) racking up somewhere over 150k miles on this trip alone. NV uses CA's ethanol fuel at 10 to 15 percent. AZ does not have any ethanol. I fill up here for the trip out, and I fill up there for the trip home. I see a difference of between 10 and almost 20 percent in fuel economy, without fail, it is not a negligible difference. In addition to being less efficient, the Ethanol fuel is more expensive. What a boondoggle. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 8:40 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol The better mileage on pure petrol is only theoretical. In practice you will not notice at all. Ethanol has a lower energy content so you would require more ethanol than petrol for a given amount of energy. However there is only 5% maximum in petrol unless stated otherwise in Europe and a small bit of 5% is negligible and well within the tolerance of the accuracy of the measurement. I very much doubt if one can register an increase of 1% in mileage. There are so many other factors influencing mileage. Kees Oudesluijs Op 30-5-2018 om 12:55 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: > The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up by some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country enforcing it. > As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more mileage for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my buck/better value for money..whatever. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Haskell > Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 > To: John Rowe > Cc: 'Healey List' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol. One can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at the pump. Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a label on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in Indiana. > > A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported and another market for corn. Not sure I agree with using a foodstuff, but that's what's been done. > > The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the price differential between grades of gasoline. For years the mid grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another 10 cents. In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents between grades. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: >> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying >> to make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. >> For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. >> >> At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run >> Healeys), why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. >> >> John Rowe Qld Australia >> >> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] >> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM >> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com >> *Cc:* 'Healey List' >> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law. Right now gasoline is going >> for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon. If you want fuel >> without ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per >> gallon and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. >> >> Mike M >> >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >> > w >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Gl >> o >> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >> >> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe >> >> wrote: >> >> As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, >> or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. >> >> John Rowe >> >> Qld Australia >> >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of >> *Michael MacLean >> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM >> *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com >> *Cc:* Healey List >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you will >> be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and >> swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just >> snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You >> can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford >> dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. >> >> Mike M. >> >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> > w >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Gl >> o >> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >> >> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 >> >> wrote: >> >> I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one >> from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. >> >> >> Tim Davis BN7 >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Michael MacLean >> To: Healey List >> Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) >> Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit >> on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the >> gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with >> gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for brass >> and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out >> the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using >> Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I >> found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered >> through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. >> Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I >> remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye >> tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat >> like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have >> experience with this? >> >> Mike MacLean >> >> Image removed by sender. >> >> > u tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> >> >> >> >> Virus-free. www.avg.com >> >> > u tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel > .plus.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed May 30 11:50:48 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 10:50:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> I can get E85 in Oregon, Better performance, but worse MPG. My 2010 Dodge truck will run on E85. It's been a while since I bought any, but it was a bit cheaper then too. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, May 30, 2018 at 8:39 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > The better mileage on pure petrol is only theoretical. In practice you > will not notice at all. Ethanol has a lower energy content so you would > require more ethanol than petrol for a given amount of energy. However > there is only 5% maximum in petrol unless stated otherwise in Europe and a > small bit of 5% is negligible and well within the tolerance of the accuracy > of the measurement. I very much doubt if one can register an increase of 1% > in mileage. There are so many other factors influencing mileage. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 30-5-2018 om 12:55 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: > >> The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up by >> some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country >> enforcing it. >> As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup >> (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more mileage >> for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my buck/better value for >> money..whatever. >> Simon >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Haskell >> Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 >> To: John Rowe >> Cc: 'Healey List' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; >> Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol. One can't >> always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at the pump. >> Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a label on the >> pump is required. I don't think that it's required in Indiana. >> >> A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported and >> another market for corn. Not sure I agree with using a foodstuff, but >> that's what's been done. >> >> The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the >> price differential between grades of gasoline. For years the mid grade was >> 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another 10 cents. In >> the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents between grades. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >> On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: >> >>> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to >>> make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. >>> For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. >>> >>> At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), >>> why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. >>> >>> John Rowe Qld Australia >>> >>> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM >>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> *Cc:* 'Healey List' >>> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law. Right now gasoline is going >>> for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon. If you want fuel without >>> ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon >>> and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. >>> >>> Mike M >>> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe >>> >>> wrote: >>> >>> As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, >>> or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. >>> >>> John Rowe >>> >>> Qld Australia >>> >>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >>> Of >>> *Michael MacLean >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM >>> *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> *Cc:* Healey List >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you will >>> be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and >>> swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just >>> snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You >>> can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford >>> dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. >>> >>> Mike M. >>> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >> Internal_YGrow >>> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> wrote: >>> >>> I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one >>> from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. >>> >>> >>> Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: Michael MacLean >>> To: Healey List >>> Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) >>> Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit >>> on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the >>> gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with >>> gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for brass >>> and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out >>> the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using >>> Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I >>> found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered >>> through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. >>> Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I >>> remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye >>> tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat >>> like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have >>> experience with this? >>> >>> Mike MacLean >>> >>> Image removed by sender. >>> >> source=link&u >>> tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> >>> >>> >>> >>> Virus-free. www.avg.com >>> >> source=link&u >>> tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >>> donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cbaustin at verizon.net Wed May 30 16:35:56 2018 From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 18:35:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol ??? My experience matches Jonas'. On many drives from Pittsburgh to Denver, Pueblo, Portland (OR), Houston, etc I logged fuel costs and consumption/miles. I even attempted to negate wind resistance by Xing out those drives in inclement weather before averaging. ??? About 15% - 18% advantage to 'pure' gasoline. Three different full-size Jeeps (2003 110K miles, 2005 375K miles, 2014 ~50K miles). ??? I've also been told, whilst discussing this subject, that if you perform a test on the "XX% Ethanol mix" you are buying, results will typically show more Ethanol than stated at the pump. ???? YMMV. ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? CB --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed May 30 17:17:25 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 16:17:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000001d3f83b$3bebbba0$b3c332e0$@cox.net> Thanks for confirming my observations about lower mpg with ethanol. Big agricultural biz love it. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Wed, May 30, 2018, 3:34 PM wrote: > I make and have made a weekly trip from Las Vegas, NV to Kingman AZ for 5 > years and running in a variety of vehicles (2 different Ford Expeditions, > Chevy SS, Toyota Tacoma pickup, Triumph TR6, Dodge Magnum Wagon) racking up > somewhere over 150k miles on this trip alone. > > NV uses CA's ethanol fuel at 10 to 15 percent. AZ does not have any > ethanol. > > I fill up here for the trip out, and I fill up there for the trip home. I > see a difference of between 10 and almost 20 percent in fuel economy, > without fail, it is not a negligible difference. > > In addition to being less efficient, the Ethanol fuel is more expensive. > > What a boondoggle. > > Jonas Payne > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > 702.882.6711 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Kees > Oudesluijs > Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 8:40 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > The better mileage on pure petrol is only theoretical. In practice you > will not notice at all. Ethanol has a lower energy content so you would > require more ethanol than petrol for a given amount of energy. However > there is only 5% maximum in petrol unless stated otherwise in Europe and a > small bit of 5% is negligible and well within the tolerance of the accuracy > of the measurement. I very much doubt if one can register an increase of 1% > in mileage. There are so many other factors influencing mileage. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 30-5-2018 om 12:55 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: > > The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up by > some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country > enforcing it. > > As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup > (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more mileage > for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my buck/better value for > money..whatever. > > Simon > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > > Haskell > > Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 > > To: John Rowe > > Cc: 'Healey List' > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > > > One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; > Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol. One can't > always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at the pump. > Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a label on the > pump is required. I don't think that it's required in Indiana. > > > > A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported and > another market for corn. Not sure I agree with using a foodstuff, but > that's what's been done. > > > > The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the > price differential between grades of gasoline. For years the mid grade was > 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another 10 cents. In > the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents between grades. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Bob Haskell > > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > > > On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: > >> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying > >> to make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the > pump. > >> For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. > >> > >> At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run > >> Healeys), why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. > >> > >> John Rowe Qld Australia > >> > >> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] > >> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM > >> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com > >> *Cc:* 'Healey List' > >> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > >> > >> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law. Right now gasoline is going > >> for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon. If you want fuel > >> without ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per > >> gallon and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. > >> > >> Mike M > >> > >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > >> >> w > >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Gl > >> o > >> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> > >> > >> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe > >> > >> wrote: > >> > >> As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these > vehicles??, > >> or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. > >> > >> John Rowe > >> > >> Qld Australia > >> > >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf > Of > >> *Michael MacLean > >> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM > >> *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com > >> *Cc:* Healey List > >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > >> > >> Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you will > >> be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and > >> swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just > >> snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You > >> can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford > >> dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. > >> > >> Mike M. > >> > >> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > >> > >> >> w > >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Gl > >> o > >> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> > >> > >> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 > >> > >> wrote: > >> > >> I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new > one > >> from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. > >> > >> > >> Tim Davis BN7 > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: Michael MacLean > >> To: Healey List > >> Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) > >> Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > >> > >> This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending > unit > >> on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the > >> gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with > >> gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for > brass > >> and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out > >> the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using > >> Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I > >> found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered > >> through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. > >> Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I > >> remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye > >> tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat > >> like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have > >> experience with this? > >> > >> Mike MacLean > >> > >> Image removed by sender. > >> > >> >> u tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> > >> > >> > >> > >> Virus-free. www.avg.com > >> > >> >> u tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> > >> > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > >> donation $12.75 > >> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > > donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel > > .plus.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > > donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpaynepbr at cox.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed May 30 17:22:56 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 23:22:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> As long as you don't make the mistake of putting E85 in your Healey or MG. ;^)Mike MacLean On Wednesday, May 30, 2018 4:01 PM, i erbs wrote: I can get E85 in Oregon, Better performance, but worse MPG. My 2010 Dodge truck will run on E85. It's been a while since I bought any, but it was a bit cheaper then too. Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB ? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed May 30 17:24:05 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 16:24:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> <1541275738.432783.1527722576418@mail.yahoo.com> Not gonna happen. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Wed, May 30, 2018, 4:23 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > As long as you don't make the mistake of putting E85 in your Healey or MG. > ;^) > Mike MacLean > > > On Wednesday, May 30, 2018 4:01 PM, i erbs wrote: > > > I can get E85 in Oregon, Better performance, but worse MPG. My 2010 Dodge > truck will run on E85. It's been a while since I bought any, but it was a > bit cheaper then too. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Virus-free. > www.avg.com > > <#m_1057253247952665197_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed May 30 20:41:44 2018 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 19:41:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?windshield_seal?= i have done this about six times. early healeys no problem, bj7s and 8s are a PITA. can be done alone, but so much easier with two guys, one feeding the new seal and one making sure it does not pop out at the rounded corners while pulling the seal. next to putting on a top this is the job i dread most. i also stretch the new seal from a height and clamp a weight on the bottom to get all the kinks from shipping out of the rubber. be prepared for some new cuss words. From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed May 30 21:06:21 2018 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 19:06:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Choke_cable_BN7?= Tim - this Moss drawing from the "Engine Controls" page shows the pieces -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 29D Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: screenshot.1299.jpg Type: application/octet-stream Size: 104309 bytes Desc: not available URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Wed May 30 22:16:22 2018 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 21:16:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000001d3f83b$3bebbba0$b3c332e0$@cox.net> Jonas Filled up with premium in Kingman AZ yesterday, and the pump indicated fuel ?may contain up to 10% ethanol?. I?m thinking some stations in AZ have changed to ethanol ?filler?. I appreciated Rob?s link to stations w/o ethanol. Will keep an eye on these links on our way home from our (Healeyless) road trip. Bob England > On May 30, 2018, at 10:25 AM, wrote: > > I make and have made a weekly trip from Las Vegas, NV to Kingman AZ for 5 years and running in a variety of vehicles (2 different Ford Expeditions, Chevy SS, Toyota Tacoma pickup, Triumph TR6, Dodge Magnum Wagon) racking up somewhere over 150k miles on this trip alone. > > NV uses CA's ethanol fuel at 10 to 15 percent. AZ does not have any ethanol. > > I fill up here for the trip out, and I fill up there for the trip home. I see a difference of between 10 and almost 20 percent in fuel economy, without fail, it is not a negligible difference. > > In addition to being less efficient, the Ethanol fuel is more expensive. > > What a boondoggle. > > Jonas Payne > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > 702.882.6711 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs > Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 8:40 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > The better mileage on pure petrol is only theoretical. In practice you will not notice at all. Ethanol has a lower energy content so you would require more ethanol than petrol for a given amount of energy. However there is only 5% maximum in petrol unless stated otherwise in Europe and a small bit of 5% is negligible and well within the tolerance of the accuracy of the measurement. I very much doubt if one can register an increase of 1% in mileage. There are so many other factors influencing mileage. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 30-5-2018 om 12:55 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: >> The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up by some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country enforcing it. >> As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more mileage for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my buck/better value for money..whatever. >> Simon >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Haskell >> Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 >> To: John Rowe >> Cc: 'Healey List' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol. One can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at the pump. Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a label on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in Indiana. >> >> A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported and another market for corn. Not sure I agree with using a foodstuff, but that's what's been done. >> >> The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the price differential between grades of gasoline. For years the mid grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another 10 cents. In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents between grades. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >>> On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: >>> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying >>> to make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. >>> For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. >>> >>> At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run >>> Healeys), why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. >>> >>> John Rowe Qld Australia >>> >>> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM >>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> *Cc:* 'Healey List' >>> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law. Right now gasoline is going >>> for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon. If you want fuel >>> without ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per >>> gallon and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. >>> >>> Mike M >>> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >> w >>> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Gl >>> o >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe >>> >>> wrote: >>> >>> As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these vehicles??, >>> or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. >>> >>> John Rowe >>> >>> Qld Australia >>> >>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of >>> *Michael MacLean >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM >>> *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> *Cc:* Healey List >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you will >>> be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and >>> swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just >>> snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. You >>> can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford >>> dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. >>> >>> Mike M. >>> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >>> >> w >>> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Gl >>> o >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> wrote: >>> >>> I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a new one >>> from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. >>> >>> >>> Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: Michael MacLean >>> To: Healey List >>> Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) >>> Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending unit >>> on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the >>> gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with >>> gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for brass >>> and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped out >>> the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using >>> Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I >>> found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered >>> through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. >>> Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I >>> remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye >>> tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat >>> like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have >>> experience with this? >>> >>> Mike MacLean >>> >>> Image removed by sender. >>> >>> >> u tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> >>> >>> >>> >>> Virus-free. www.avg.com >>> >>> >> u tm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >>> donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel >> .plus.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpaynepbr at cox.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl at accesscomm.ca > From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed May 30 23:47:41 2018 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Wed, 30 May 2018 22:47:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?ethanol?= since i have neither the time or patience to drive around looking for a special fuel, i resolved many years ago to learn to live with ethanol in the gas and did what i could to my car to live with ethanol, changing out all the fuel system rubber and putting in hardened valve seats(possibly of dubious value). i suppose there will be some long term damage from ethanol but so far nothing that i cannot live with. remember, every farm state has two senators and iowa is where all presidential candidates go to sing the praises of ethanol. i have the feeling it will be with us a long time. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu May 31 03:45:54 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 11:45:54 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> <1541275738.432783.1527722576418@mail.yahoo.com> Ethanol has about 30% less energy content compared to most petrols, so if the ethanol content is 10% you may encounter about 3%? decrease in mileage. However you can counteract this by increasing the ignition advance slightly as ethanol acts as an octane booster. Kees Oudesluijs Op 31-5-2018 om 01:24 schreef i erbs: > Not gonna happen. > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Wed, May 30, 2018, 4:23 PM Michael MacLean > As long as you don't make the mistake of putting E85 in your > Healey or MG. ;^) > Mike MacLean > > > On Wednesday, May 30, 2018 4:01 PM, i erbs > > I can get E85 in Oregon, Better performance, but worse MPG. My > 2010 Dodge truck will run on E85. It's been a while since I bought > any, but it was a bit cheaper then too. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > ? ? ? _______ ? ? ?_______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drmasucci at comcast.net Thu May 31 06:54:53 2018 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 08:54:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Moss So are any of you guys noticing a sudden lack of responsiveness from Moss? Until recently, if I placed an order i would almost always get a shipping notification the next day. And almost always my parts would be on my doorstep within 1 to 3 days.? What is really bothering me is that they now seem to take 3 to 5 days just to ship and send the acknowledgement. This is the third time in the last 2 months that I've waited much longer than usual. I used to count on fast shipping from Moss. Right now I am waiting for an acknowledgement from an order placed on Monday, and nothing so far. I know Monday was a holiday, but I'm seeing a trend. I've noticed a policy change where every package tells you to open and inspect immediately as they won't be responsible after so many days...5 I think. I can understand this to a point, but we're not buying shoes here. Sometimes you won't know if a part is not right for some time. This hasn't caused me any issue yet, but the trend has me wondering what's up.? Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed these changes? Looks like there's no chance that i will have my parts for my weekend plans.? Thanks for listening,Dave BJ8 getting there. ? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20180530_184739.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4448654 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu May 31 08:23:39 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 07:23:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> That's been my experience.? We've logged many thousands of miles and calculated the MPG we get on every tank; the difference between 10% gasahol and pure gas is negligible (although it's impossible to get exact comparisons because road conditions, altitude, etc. change over the course of a tank).? Also, FWIW, in 140K miles I've never had a problem that could be attributed to ethanol; I just replaced the Petroflex hard line to carburettor flex line because it was a little stiff but was in otherwise good nick at over 100K miles.? The coating in the tank has held up as well. But I still don't like subsidizing ADM. Bob On 5/30/2018 8:39 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > The better mileage on pure petrol is only theoretical. In practice you > will not notice at all. Ethanol has a lower energy content so you > would require more ethanol than petrol for a given amount of energy. > However there is only 5% maximum in petrol unless stated otherwise in > Europe and a small bit of 5% is negligible and well within the > tolerance of the accuracy of the measurement. I very much doubt if one > can register an increase of 1% in mileage. There are so many other > factors influencing mileage. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 30-5-2018 om 12:55 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: >> The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up >> by some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country >> enforcing it. >> As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup >> (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more >> mileage for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my >> buck/better value for money..whatever. >> Simon >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> Bob Haskell >> Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 >> To: John Rowe >> Cc: 'Healey List' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; >> Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol.? One >> can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at >> the pump.? Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a >> label on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in >> Indiana. >> >> A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported >> and another market for corn.? Not sure I agree with using a >> foodstuff, but that's what's been done. >> >> The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the >> price differential between grades of gasoline.? For years the mid >> grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another >> 10 cents.? In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents >> between grades. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >> On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: >>> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to >>> make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. >>> For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. >>> >>> At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), >>> why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. >>> >>> John Rowe Qld Australia >>> >>> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM >>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> *Cc:* 'Healey List' >>> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law.? Right now gasoline is going >>> for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon.? If you want fuel without >>> ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon >>> and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. >>> >>> Mike M >>> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> ???? On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe >>> >>> ???? wrote: >>> >>> ???? As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these >>> vehicles??, >>> ???? or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. >>> >>> ???? John Rowe >>> >>> ???? Qld Australia >>> >>> ???? *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On >>> Behalf Of >>> ???? *Michael MacLean >>> ???? *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM >>> ???? *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> ???? *Cc:* Healey List >>> ???? *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> ???? Don't do it.? It will fill with gas in about two years and you >>> will >>> ???? be doing this again.? All you have to do is buy a brass float and >>> ???? swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just >>> ???? snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. >>> You >>> ???? can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford >>> ???? dealer.? Ethanol does not eat brass. >>> >>> ???? Mike M. >>> >>> ???? Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> ???????? On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> ???????? wrote: >>> >>> ???????? I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a >>> new one >>> ???????? from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. >>> >>> >>> ???????? Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> ???????? ----- Original Message ----- >>> ???????? From: Michael MacLean >>> ???????? To: Healey List >>> ???????? Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) >>> ???????? Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> ???????? This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending >>> unit >>> ???????? on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the >>> ???????? gauge.? As suspected, the plastic float was filled with >>> ???????? gasoline.? Ethanol!? While replacing the plastic float for >>> brass >>> ???????? and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped >>> out >>> ???????? the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using >>> ???????? Hylomar AF to seal things up.? The big surprise came when I >>> ???????? found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline.? Must have entered >>> ???????? through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. >>> ???????? Anyone have experience with this?? Should I be concerned?? I >>> ???????? remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye >>> ???????? tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat >>> ???????? like it had also been filled with gasoline.? Anyone have >>> ???????? experience with this? >>> >>> ???????? Mike MacLean >>> From jpaynepbr at cox.net Thu May 31 10:32:21 2018 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 09:32:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Moss References: David, I have not. I typically order once a week and have the parts 3 days later unless the part is shipping from the E. Coast. I have a sales rep. Mark Evans, same guy for over 6 years. If you?d like, I can put you in touch with him. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2018 5:55 AM Subject: [Healeys] Moss So are any of you guys noticing a sudden lack of responsiveness from Moss? Until recently, if I placed an order i would almost always get a shipping notification the next day. And almost always my parts would be on my doorstep within 1 to 3 days. What is really bothering me is that they now seem to take 3 to 5 days just to ship and send the acknowledgement. This is the third time in the last 2 months that I've waited much longer than usual. I used to count on fast shipping from Moss. Right now I am waiting for an acknowledgement from an order placed on Monday, and nothing so far. I know Monday was a holiday, but I'm seeing a trend. I've noticed a policy change where every package tells you to open and inspect immediately as they won't be responsible after so many days...5 I think. I can understand this to a point, but we're not buying shoes here. Sometimes you won't know if a part is not right for some time. This hasn't caused me any issue yet, but the trend has me wondering what's up. Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed these changes? Looks like there's no chance that i will have my parts for my weekend plans. Thanks for listening, Dave BJ8 getting there. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 17232 bytes Desc: not available URL: From al at bighealey.org Thu May 31 10:55:48 2018 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 12:55:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 exhaust References: Bob: FWIW, I have an early BJ-8 too, and mine is the standard BJ-8 exhaust. My VIN is about 20 later than your friend?s car. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Memler Sent: Friday, May 25, 2018 7:20 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 exhaust A friend is restoring an early BJ8 and found out that the as exhaust from Moss did not fit and was told he needed a BJ 7 system. Is this likely or does he need something different. His VIN number is HBJ8L/28763. TIA, Bob Memler 54 BN1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Thu May 31 11:01:27 2018 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 13:01:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] My posts keep getting detained by the moderator References: Richard ? I get the same error every time I ?reply-all? to the list, even though its only two recipients [the original poster and the list]. My work-around is to just reply to the list, but address comments to the original poster ? like in this email. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2018 8:32 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] My posts keep getting detained by the moderator Apparently I have too many recipients? WTF? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Thu May 31 12:21:55 2018 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 11:21:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Moss References: <20180531150746.BD45025889DC@autox.team.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20180530_184739.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4448654 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu May 31 12:38:10 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 18:38:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> <890df6ef-9db6-a3cc-0b53-306950cd4b02@comcast.net> Ethanol causes havoc with my Harley Davidson carb and fuel system.? If I don't ride the bike regularly at least once a week the fuel system gets plugged with a sticky residue.? If I am lucky I can get the bike started and I have to run the freeway at 65 MPH for a half hour or so to clean out the crap with a fresh fuel flow.? I hav also had to replace the rubber diaphragm in the CV carb because the ethanol ate a hole in it.? Not a fan of ethanol.Mike MacLean On Thursday, May 31, 2018 9:36 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: That's been my experience.? We've logged many thousands of miles and calculated the MPG we get on every tank; the difference between 10% gasahol and pure gas is negligible (although it's impossible to get exact comparisons because road conditions, altitude, etc. change over the course of a tank).? Also, FWIW, in 140K miles I've never had a problem that could be attributed to ethanol; I just replaced the Petroflex hard line to carburettor flex line because it was a little stiff but was in otherwise good nick at over 100K miles.? The coating in the tank has held up as well. But I still don't like subsidizing ADM. Bob On 5/30/2018 8:39 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > The better mileage on pure petrol is only theoretical. In practice you > will not notice at all. Ethanol has a lower energy content so you > would require more ethanol than petrol for a given amount of energy. > However there is only 5% maximum in petrol unless stated otherwise in > Europe and a small bit of 5% is negligible and well within the > tolerance of the accuracy of the measurement. I very much doubt if one > can register an increase of 1% in mileage. There are so many other > factors influencing mileage. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 30-5-2018 om 12:55 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: >> The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up >> by some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country >> enforcing it. >> As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup >> (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more >> mileage for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my >> buck/better value for money..whatever. >> Simon >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> Bob Haskell >> Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 >> To: John Rowe >> Cc: 'Healey List' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; >> Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol.? One >> can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at >> the pump.? Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a >> label on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in >> Indiana. >> >> A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported >> and another market for corn.? Not sure I agree with using a >> foodstuff, but that's what's been done. >> >> The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the >> price differential between grades of gasoline.? For years the mid >> grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another >> 10 cents.? In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents >> between grades. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >> On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: >>> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to >>> make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. >>> For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. >>> >>> At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), >>> why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. >>> >>> John Rowe Qld Australia >>> >>> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM >>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> *Cc:* 'Healey List' >>> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law.? Right now gasoline is going >>> for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon.? If you want fuel without >>> ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon >>> and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. >>> >>> Mike M >>> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> ???? On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe >>> >>> ???? wrote: >>> >>> ???? As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these >>> vehicles??, >>> ???? or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. >>> >>> ???? John Rowe >>> >>> ???? Qld Australia >>> >>> ???? *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On >>> Behalf Of >>> ???? *Michael MacLean >>> ???? *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM >>> ???? *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> ???? *Cc:* Healey List >>> ???? *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> ???? Don't do it.? It will fill with gas in about two years and you >>> will >>> ???? be doing this again.? All you have to do is buy a brass float and >>> ???? swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just >>> ???? snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. >>> You >>> ???? can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford >>> ???? dealer.? Ethanol does not eat brass. >>> >>> ???? Mike M. >>> >>> ???? Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> ???????? On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> ???????? wrote: >>> >>> ???????? I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a >>> new one >>> ???????? from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. >>> >>> >>> ???????? Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> ???????? ----- Original Message ----- >>> ???????? From: Michael MacLean >>> ???????? To: Healey List >>> ???????? Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) >>> ???????? Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> ???????? This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending >>> unit >>> ???????? on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the >>> ???????? gauge.? As suspected, the plastic float was filled with >>> ???????? gasoline.? Ethanol!? While replacing the plastic float for >>> brass >>> ???????? and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped >>> out >>> ???????? the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using >>> ???????? Hylomar AF to seal things up.? The big surprise came when I >>> ???????? found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline.? Must have entered >>> ???????? through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. >>> ???????? Anyone have experience with this?? Should I be concerned?? I >>> ???????? remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye >>> ???????? tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat >>> ???????? like it had also been filled with gasoline.? Anyone have >>> ???????? experience with this? >>> >>> ???????? Mike MacLean >>> _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 31 12:43:14 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 11:43:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Moss References: <20180531152443.6022D25881F2@autox.team.net> Project looks great. I buy from a local vendor who passes along at least a 10% discount and free shipping. I have him return items as he has the clout to get it fixed. Seems like you have stuff to do even if the ordered parts don't show up :) cheers Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, May 31, 2018 at 5:54 AM, David Masucci wrote: > So are any of you guys noticing a sudden lack of responsiveness from Moss? > Until recently, if I placed an order i would almost always get a shipping > notification the next day. And almost always my parts would be on my > doorstep within 1 to 3 days. > > What is really bothering me is that they now seem to take 3 to 5 days just > to ship and send the acknowledgement. This is the third time in the last 2 > months that I've waited much longer than usual. I used to count on fast > shipping from Moss. Right now I am waiting for an acknowledgement from an > order placed on Monday, and nothing so far. I know Monday was a holiday, > but I'm seeing a trend. > > I've noticed a policy change where every package tells you to open and > inspect immediately as they won't be responsible after so many days...5 I > think. I can understand this to a point, but we're not buying shoes here. > Sometimes you won't know if a part is not right for some time. This hasn't > caused me any issue yet, but the trend has me wondering what's up. > > Is it just me, or has anyone else noticed these changes? Looks like > there's no chance that i will have my parts for my weekend plans. > > Thanks for listening, > Dave > > BJ8 getting there. > > > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20180530_184739.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4448654 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Thu May 31 16:03:25 2018 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 22:03:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> , <890df6ef-9db6-a3cc-0b53-306950cd4b02@comcast.net> Whatever happened to "Alcohol and gasoline don't mix." I prefer my ethanol chilled in 16 ounce containers... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2018 2:23:39 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol That's been my experience. We've logged many thousands of miles and calculated the MPG we get on every tank; the difference between 10% gasahol and pure gas is negligible (although it's impossible to get exact comparisons because road conditions, altitude, etc. change over the course of a tank). Also, FWIW, in 140K miles I've never had a problem that could be attributed to ethanol; I just replaced the Petroflex hard line to carburettor flex line because it was a little stiff but was in otherwise good nick at over 100K miles. The coating in the tank has held up as well. But I still don't like subsidizing ADM. Bob On 5/30/2018 8:39 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > The better mileage on pure petrol is only theoretical. In practice you > will not notice at all. Ethanol has a lower energy content so you > would require more ethanol than petrol for a given amount of energy. > However there is only 5% maximum in petrol unless stated otherwise in > Europe and a small bit of 5% is negligible and well within the > tolerance of the accuracy of the measurement. I very much doubt if one > can register an increase of 1% in mileage. There are so many other > factors influencing mileage. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 30-5-2018 om 12:55 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: >> The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up >> by some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country >> enforcing it. >> As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup >> (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more >> mileage for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my >> buck/better value for money..whatever. >> Simon >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> Bob Haskell >> Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 >> To: John Rowe >> Cc: 'Healey List' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; >> Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol. One >> can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at >> the pump. Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a >> label on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in >> Indiana. >> >> A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported >> and another market for corn. Not sure I agree with using a >> foodstuff, but that's what's been done. >> >> The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the >> price differential between grades of gasoline. For years the mid >> grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another >> 10 cents. In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents >> between grades. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >> On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: >>> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to >>> make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. >>> For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. >>> >>> At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), >>> why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. >>> >>> John Rowe Qld Australia >>> >>> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM >>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> *Cc:* 'Healey List' >>> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law. Right now gasoline is going >>> for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon. If you want fuel without >>> ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon >>> and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. >>> >>> Mike M >>> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe >>> >>> wrote: >>> >>> As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these >>> vehicles??, >>> or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. >>> >>> John Rowe >>> >>> Qld Australia >>> >>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On >>> Behalf Of >>> *Michael MacLean >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM >>> *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> *Cc:* Healey List >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you >>> will >>> be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and >>> swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just >>> snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. >>> You >>> can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford >>> dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. >>> >>> Mike M. >>> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> wrote: >>> >>> I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a >>> new one >>> from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. >>> >>> >>> Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: Michael MacLean >>> To: Healey List >>> Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) >>> Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending >>> unit >>> on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the >>> gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with >>> gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for >>> brass >>> and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped >>> out >>> the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using >>> Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I >>> found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered >>> through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. >>> Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I >>> remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye >>> tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat >>> like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have >>> experience with this? >>> >>> Mike MacLean >>> _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Thu May 31 21:31:44 2018 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2018 03:31:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> <890df6ef-9db6-a3cc-0b53-306950cd4b02@comcast.net> I agree with Bill ethanol is driving up the price of Bourbon.Rat Juncal From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: Bob Spidell ; "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2018 7:22 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol #yiv0959090549 #yiv0959090549 -- P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}#yiv0959090549 Whatever happened to "Alcohol and gasoline don't mix."? I prefer my ethanol chilled?in 16 ounce containers... Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2018 2:23:39 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol?That's been my experience.? We've logged many thousands of miles and calculated the MPG we get on every tank; the difference between 10% gasahol and pure gas is negligible (although it's impossible to get exact comparisons because road conditions, altitude, etc. change over the course of a tank).? Also, FWIW, in 140K miles I've never had a problem that could be attributed to ethanol; I just replaced the Petroflex hard line to carburettor flex line because it was a little stiff but was in otherwise good nick at over 100K miles.? The coating in the tank has held up as well. But I still don't like subsidizing ADM. Bob On 5/30/2018 8:39 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > The better mileage on pure petrol is only theoretical. In practice you > will not notice at all. Ethanol has a lower energy content so you > would require more ethanol than petrol for a given amount of energy. > However there is only 5% maximum in petrol unless stated otherwise in > Europe and a small bit of 5% is negligible and well within the > tolerance of the accuracy of the measurement. I very much doubt if one > can register an increase of 1% in mileage. There are so many other > factors influencing mileage. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 30-5-2018 om 12:55 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: >> The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up >> by some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country >> enforcing it. >> As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup >> (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more >> mileage for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my >> buck/better value for money..whatever. >> Simon >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> Bob Haskell >> Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 >> To: John Rowe >> Cc: 'Healey List' >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >> >> One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; >> Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol.? One >> can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at >> the pump.? Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a >> label on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in >> Indiana. >> >> A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported >> and another market for corn.? Not sure I agree with using a >> foodstuff, but that's what's been done. >> >> The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the >> price differential between grades of gasoline.? For years the mid >> grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another >> 10 cents.? In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents >> between grades. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >> On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: >>> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to >>> make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. >>> For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. >>> >>> At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), >>> why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. >>> >>> John Rowe Qld Australia >>> >>> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM >>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> *Cc:* 'Healey List' >>> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law.? Right now gasoline is going >>> for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon.? If you want fuel without >>> ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon >>> and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. >>> >>> Mike M >>> >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> ???? On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe >>> >>> ???? wrote: >>> >>> ???? As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these >>> vehicles??, >>> ???? or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. >>> >>> ???? John Rowe >>> >>> ???? Qld Australia >>> >>> ???? *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On >>> Behalf Of >>> ???? *Michael MacLean >>> ???? *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM >>> ???? *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com >>> ???? *Cc:* Healey List >>> ???? *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> ???? Don't do it.? It will fill with gas in about two years and you >>> will >>> ???? be doing this again.? All you have to do is buy a brass float and >>> ???? swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just >>> ???? snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. >>> You >>> ???? can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford >>> ???? dealer.? Ethanol does not eat brass. >>> >>> ???? Mike M. >>> >>> ???? Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android >>> >> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> >>> >>> ???????? On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> ???????? wrote: >>> >>> ???????? I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a >>> new one >>> ???????? from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. >>> >>> >>> ???????? Tim Davis BN7 >>> >>> ???????? ----- Original Message ----- >>> ???????? From: Michael MacLean >>> ???????? To: Healey List >>> ???????? Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) >>> ???????? Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol >>> >>> ???????? This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending >>> unit >>> ???????? on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the >>> ???????? gauge.? As suspected, the plastic float was filled with >>> ???????? gasoline.? Ethanol!? While replacing the plastic float for >>> brass >>> ???????? and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped >>> out >>> ???????? the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using >>> ???????? Hylomar AF to seal things up.? The big surprise came when I >>> ???????? found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline.? Must have entered >>> ???????? through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. >>> ???????? Anyone have experience with this?? Should I be concerned?? I >>> ???????? remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye >>> ???????? tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat >>> ???????? like it had also been filled with gasoline.? Anyone have >>> ???????? experience with this? >>> >>> ???????? Mike MacLean >>> _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu May 31 21:41:48 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 31 May 2018 20:41:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol References: <1019908234.356391202.1527623191775.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <1366495005.2470178.1527623688859@mail.yahoo.com> <001201d3f7a6$1cdaced0$56906c70$@com.au> <853331632.2533464.1527639933081@mail.yahoo.com> <001d01d3f7ba$810f7d10$832e7730$@com.au> <42bdd87a-fcff-79aa-64f0-679a1f99ced1@earthlink.net> <000601d3f804$ac8e2230$05aa6690$@alexarevel.plus.com> <890df6ef-9db6-a3cc-0b53-306950cd4b02@comcast.net> agreed Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, May 31, 2018 at 3:03 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Whatever happened to "Alcohol and gasoline don't mix." > > > I prefer my ethanol chilled in 16 ounce containers... > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell > > *Sent:* Thursday, May 31, 2018 2:23:39 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > > That's been my experience. We've logged many thousands of miles and > calculated the MPG we get on every tank; the difference between 10% > gasahol and pure gas is negligible (although it's impossible to get > exact comparisons because road conditions, altitude, etc. change over > the course of a tank). Also, FWIW, in 140K miles I've never had a > problem that could be attributed to ethanol; I just replaced the > Petroflex hard line to carburettor flex line because it was a little > stiff but was in otherwise good nick at over 100K miles. The coating in > the tank has held up as well. > > But I still don't like subsidizing ADM. > > Bob > > > On 5/30/2018 8:39 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > The better mileage on pure petrol is only theoretical. In practice you > > will not notice at all. Ethanol has a lower energy content so you > > would require more ethanol than petrol for a given amount of energy. > > However there is only 5% maximum in petrol unless stated otherwise in > > Europe and a small bit of 5% is negligible and well within the > > tolerance of the accuracy of the measurement. I very much doubt if one > > can register an increase of 1% in mileage. There are so many other > > factors influencing mileage. > > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > > > > Op 30-5-2018 om 12:55 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: > >> The Ethanol rules are different here in the UK. Probably dreamed up > >> by some booby in Brussels, passed into law and we're the only country > >> enforcing it. > >> As to the practicalities.......I'm not sure about my current setup > >> (Webers) but previously (3 HD6s), I was pretty sure that I got more > >> mileage for my money on high(er) octane. More bangs for my > >> buck/better value for money..whatever. > >> Simon > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of > >> Bob Haskell > >> Sent: 30 May 2018 11:00 > >> To: John Rowe > >> Cc: 'Healey List' > >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > >> > >> One can still buy non-ethanol fuel at the pump here in the States; > >> Countrymark is one company that sells premium with zero ethanol. One > >> can't always tell if there's ethanol in the gasoline by looking at > >> the pump. Apparently, it's up to the individual state to decide if a > >> label on the pump is required. I don't think that it's required in > >> Indiana. > >> > >> A couple of reasons for ethanol: reduces amount of oil used/imported > >> and another market for corn. Not sure I agree with using a > >> foodstuff, but that's what's been done. > >> > >> The other issue I've wondered about, but haven't looked into, is the > >> price differential between grades of gasoline. For years the mid > >> grade was 10 cents a gallon more than regular and premium was another > >> 10 cents. In the last couple of years it's changed to 25 to 30 cents > >> between grades. > >> > >> Cheers, > >> > >> Bob Haskell > >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >> > >> On 05/29/2018 10:04 PM, John Rowe wrote: > >>> OK, thanks Mike. We have it in Oz, and the greenies here are trying to > >>> make it mandatory I believe. We can buy 91/95/98 unleaded at the pump. > >>> For 98 we pay about $1.70/litre. > >>> > >>> At 2c/litre discount for E10 from 91 octane (which won?t run Healeys), > >>> why would you bother buying it due to the decreased mpg. > >>> > >>> John Rowe Qld Australia > >>> > >>> *From:*Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net > ] > >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 10:26 AM > >>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; tld6008 at mchsi.com > >>> *Cc:* 'Healey List' > >>> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > >>> > >>> Fuel at the pump is 10% ethanol by law. Right now gasoline is going > >>> for an average of $3.75 to $4 US per gallon. If you want fuel without > >>> ethanol you can buy high octane racing gas, but it's $10 per gallon > >>> and it is supposed to be illegal in street vehicles. > >>> > >>> Mike M > >>> > >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > >>> >>> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo > >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> > >>> > >>> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 4:43 PM, John Rowe > >>> > >>> wrote: > >>> > >>> As an Australian, I ask ?why do you use ethanol in these > >>> vehicles??, > >>> or don?t you have a say as to what you use in your countries. > >>> > >>> John Rowe > >>> > >>> Qld Australia > >>> > >>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On > >>> Behalf Of > >>> *Michael MacLean > >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 30 May 2018 5:55 AM > >>> *To:* tld6008 at mchsi.com > >>> *Cc:* Healey List > >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > >>> > >>> Don't do it. It will fill with gas in about two years and you > >>> will > >>> be doing this again. All you have to do is buy a brass float and > >>> swap it out for the plastic one and sleep well at night. It just > >>> snaps right in. The brass float is a Ford part no. COAZ-9202-B. > >>> You > >>> can find them on eBay, Amazon, Summit Racing and even the Ford > >>> dealer. Ethanol does not eat brass. > >>> > >>> Mike M. > >>> > >>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > >>> >>> th_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Glo > >>> bal_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> > >>> > >>> On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 12:46 PM, Tim Davis BN7 > >>> > >>> wrote: > >>> > >>> I had the powdery residue all over mine. I just bought a > >>> new one > >>> from Moss it has a plastic float. Hopefully it will hold up. > >>> > >>> > >>> Tim Davis BN7 > >>> > >>> ----- Original Message ----- > >>> From: Michael MacLean > >>> To: Healey List > >>> Sent: Tue, 29 May 2018 11:29:39 -0400 (EDT) > >>> Subject: [Healeys] Effects of Ethanol > >>> > >>> This past weekend I removed the tank to extract the sending > >>> unit > >>> on my Bugeye because of a constant reading of empty on the > >>> gauge. As suspected, the plastic float was filled with > >>> gasoline. Ethanol! While replacing the plastic float for > >>> brass > >>> and the cork gaskets for Viton type gaskets, I also swapped > >>> out > >>> the sending unit top cover cork gasket with a Viton type using > >>> Hylomar AF to seal things up. The big surprise came when I > >>> found the rheostat cavity full of gasoline. Must have entered > >>> through the hole in the sending unit body for the float lever. > >>> Anyone have experience with this? Should I be concerned? I > >>> remember the original sending unit I removed form the Bugeye > >>> tank was full of a white powdery residue around the rheostat > >>> like it had also been filled with gasoline. Anyone have > >>> experience with this? > >>> > >>> Mike MacLean > >>> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: