From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 1 12:21:42 2018 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2018 19:21:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ed Kaler References: <1648417584.8665299.1519932102276.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Sad info to pass along, Ed Kaler (Just Brits) passed away Jan 10th.His obit is attached. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Kaler.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 181792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Thu Mar 1 13:02:18 2018 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2018 14:02:18 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Obituary for Edwin Whitney Kaler References: <944556236.17186.1519931234300@connect.xfinity.com> FYI, I just received this from one of our local Healey club members, that Ed Kaler passed away in January. He lived in the southwest Chicago suburb of Hinsdale with his wife Cindy for the past thirty years or so. He was one of the founding members of the Illini Chapter of the AHCA. and until a few years ago, a frequent contributor the autox Healey and Spridget lists. R.I.P. Ed. Attached is the Obituary for Edwin Whitney Kaler for your information as posted today in the local Hinsdale newspaper. Virus-free. www.avast.com <#m_-944968473500259327_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: img060.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 178061 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Mar 1 14:45:42 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2018 13:45:42 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Obituary for Edwin Whitney Kaler References: <944556236.17186.1519931234300@connect.xfinity.com> Thanks, I was wondering if he was ill as we had not heard from him in awhile. Often acerbic, but always good for comments and responses. In a strange way, I will miss him even though we had gone a few rounds over the years, we did reach a truce of sorts a few years ago. RIP Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Mar 1, 2018 at 12:02 PM, Neil Anderson wrote: > FYI, I just received this from one of our local Healey club members, that > Ed Kaler passed away in January. He lived in the southwest Chicago suburb > of Hinsdale with his wife Cindy for the past thirty years or so. He was > one of the founding members of the Illini Chapter of the AHCA. and until a > few years ago, a frequent contributor the autox Healey and Spridget lists. > R.I.P. Ed. > > Attached is the Obituary for Edwin Whitney Kaler for your information as > posted today in the local Hinsdale newspaper. > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_4447976264408602282_m_-944968473500259327_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Mar 1 19:06:58 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2018 21:06:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Obituary for Edwin Whitney Kaler References: <944556236.17186.1519931234300@connect.xfinity.com> I sent this nearly a year ago to Ed. Did hear back from although I tried several times..... Ed ?It has been a long time since hearing from you on line and wanted to ask how you are doing. Time really goes by quickly and I kick myself for not keeping in touch with old friends and old farts! You pick which may apply, maybe both! Rest In Peace my friend...... Aloha Perry Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 1, 2018, at 3:02 PM, Neil Anderson wrote: > > FYI, I just received this from one of our local Healey club members, that Ed Kaler passed away in January. He lived in the southwest Chicago suburb of Hinsdale with his wife Cindy for the past thirty years or so. He was one of the founding members of the Illini Chapter of the AHCA. and until a few years ago, a frequent contributor the autox Healey and Spridget lists. R.I.P. Ed. > > Attached is the Obituary for Edwin Whitney Kaler for your information as posted today in the local Hinsdale newspaper. > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu Mar 1 19:14:41 2018 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2018 21:14:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Obituary for Edwin Whitney Kaler That's too bad, wondered about him too. We had several good conversations about LBCs offline, and I always got a kick out of his sometimes slightly divergent views of life and LBC ownership. Greg Lemon ---- i erbs wrote: > Thanks, > I was wondering if he was ill as we had not heard from him in awhile. > Often acerbic, but always good for comments and responses. In a strange > way, I will miss him even though we had gone a few rounds over the years, > we did reach a truce of sorts a few years ago. RIP > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Mar 1, 2018 at 12:02 PM, Neil Anderson > wrote: > > > FYI, I just received this from one of our local Healey club members, that > > Ed Kaler passed away in January. He lived in the southwest Chicago suburb > > of Hinsdale with his wife Cindy for the past thirty years or so. He was > > one of the founding members of the Illini Chapter of the AHCA. and until a > > few years ago, a frequent contributor the autox Healey and Spridget lists. > > R.I.P. Ed. > > > > Attached is the Obituary for Edwin Whitney Kaler for your information as > > posted today in the local Hinsdale newspaper. > > > > > > Virus-free. > > www.avast.com > > > > <#m_4447976264408602282_m_-944968473500259327_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Mar 1 21:55:12 2018 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2018 20:55:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?parts_for_sale?= have a set of rebuilt calipers for early BJ8 back. has new rubber and stainless steel pistons. going on ebay next week. contact me off list if interested. From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Mar 1 22:25:53 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2018 06:25:53 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Obituary for Edwin Whitney Kaler References: <944556236.17186.1519931234300@connect.xfinity.com> Thanks for letting us know. I heard a couple years ago that he was ill. He sometimes rubbed people the wrong way with his comments--I think he was even banned from this list for a while--but I think it was mostly a case of his sense of humor not translating well to text. I made a point to 'get to know' him a little and although we never met we had some good conversations, mostly about Healeys (of course). He had a big heart. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > On March 1, 2018 at 9:02 PM Neil Anderson wrote: > > FYI, I just received this from one of our local Healey club members, that Ed Kaler passed away in January. He lived in the southwest Chicago suburb of Hinsdale with his wife Cindy for the past thirty years or so. He was one of the founding members of the Illini Chapter of the AHCA. and until a few years ago, a frequent contributor the autox Healey and Spridget lists. R.I.P. Ed. > > Attached is the Obituary for Edwin Whitney Kaler for your information as posted today in the local Hinsdale newspaper. > > > https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100s at live.com Fri Mar 2 09:40:43 2018 From: healey100s at live.com (Don Anglesey) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2018 16:40:43 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ed Kaler References: <1648417584.8665299.1519932102276.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <1648417584.8665299.1519932102276@mail.yahoo.com> Sorry to hear, missed his wisdom over the last few years, will remember his contributions and the wit he provided to the Healey list. RIP Ed. Don 57' 100-6 Get Outlook for Android ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Brown Sent: Thursday, March 1, 2018 12:21:42 PM To: Sprite Yahoo; Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Ed Kaler Sad info to pass along, Ed Kaler (Just Brits) passed away Jan 10th. His obit is attached. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Mar 4 02:31:31 2018 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2018 20:31:31 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Generator now Generating Hello I am pleased to report that the generator of the BN3 is now generating. First of all I made up a lead with alligator clips on both ends and attached it to small and larger terminals of the generator. Then loosened off the fanbelt. Next was another lead from the brown (power) wire on the regulator to one of the generator terminals. Hey presto the generator spun up thinking it was an electric motor. So the generator was working. On to the regulator with my trusty points file. Everyone should have a points file. There are two sets of points in the regulator and within a few minutes of filing it was all done. Actually one had to be adjusted to allow enough room for the points file and then readjusted back to where it was before. Start engine and the ammeter needle swung into the positive and the ignition light is extinguished. Job done! Ran the engine up to 200 degrees and now all I have to do is to find out why there is a pool of oil and water on the garage floor. Many thanks to everyone who responded. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Norman Hendry [mailto:Norman.Hendry at shaw.ca] Sent: Wednesday, 28 February 2018 1:14 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net; p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator not Generating Hello Patrick Agree with the recommendations given by Roger and Thomas that you check the generator prior to the regulator Another version of the test is: 1. Disconnect the two cables from the generator then link the two terminals together with a short lead. 2. Start the engine and allow to run at idling speed. Clip one lead from a voltmeter (set at 20 Volts) to the linked terminals of the generator. Clip the other lead from the voltmeter to a good earthing (ground) point on the body (support bracket) of the generator 3. Gradually increase the engine speed; the voltmeter reading should rise rapidly without fluctuations. Do not allow the voltmeter reading to reach 20 volts and do not race the engine in an attempt to obtain a reading. An engine speed of 1000 RPM should not be exceeded. 4. No reading points to brush gear failure, a reading of 0.5 - 1.0 Volts is a possible fault in the field winding and 4.0 - 5.0 Volts, a faulty armature. Good luck Norman Von: Patrick & Caroline Quinn [mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au] Gesendet: Dienstag, 27. Februar 2018 07:05 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] Generator not Generating Hello Now that the BN3?s engine is running I have discovered that the charging system is not charging. Both the ignition light is staying on and the ammeter while working, stays in the negative. I have checked the wiring and that appears to be correct. As the regulator is NOS, methinks that the generator is not generating. As far as I know it?s a standard generator as fitted to the early six-cylinder cars. What about new brushes? Any instructions out there for this electrically challenged person? The car is still positive earthed. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From warthodson at aol.com Sun Mar 4 08:48:41 2018 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2018 10:48:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing I recall seeing a link/article discussing how to add a timing mark on a 100 timing chain cover, but cannot find it. Can someone point me in the right direction? Gary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Mar 4 10:03:51 2018 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2018 17:03:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing References: <161f1b364df-1796-3a26@webjas-vab220.srv.aolmail.net> There was an article about it, from Roger Moment, in an issue of the Austin-Healey Club Magazine but right now cannot recall which month. If you are a member of the AHCUSA, go to the website and you should be able to see the article, very likely uploaded to the website. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of warthodson at aol.com Sent: March 4, 2018 3:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing I recall seeing a link/article discussing how to add a timing mark on a 100 timing chain cover, but cannot find it. Can someone point me in the right direction? Gary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Mar 4 11:04:33 2018 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2018 11:04:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing References: <161f1b364df-1796-3a26@webjas-vab220.srv.aolmail.net> Once TDC is accurately established the corresponding "marks" can be anywhere one wants them to be. What is used: welded tabs, paint, scratches, whatever is up to you.. On 3/4/2018 10:03 AM, Jean Caron wrote: > > There was an article about it, from Roger Moment, in an issue of the > Austin-Healey Club Magazine but right now cannot recall which month. > If you are a member of the AHCUSA, go to the website and you should be > able to see the article, very likely uploaded to the website. > > > Jean > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > warthodson at aol.com > *Sent:* March 4, 2018 3:48 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] 100 timing > I?recall seeing a link/article discussing how to add a timing mark on > a 100 timing chain cover, but cannot find it. > Can someone?point me in the right direction? > Gary > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2902 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sun Mar 4 11:25:12 2018 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2018 13:25:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing I cannot find the article on either the AHUSA or AHCA sites. I am a member of both. -----Original Message----- From: Jean Caron To: warthodson ; healeys Sent: Sun, Mar 4, 2018 11:03 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 timing There was an article about it, from Roger Moment, in an issue of the Austin-Healey Club Magazine but right now cannot recall which month. If you are a member of the AHCUSA, go to the website and you should be able to see the article, very likely uploaded to the website. Jean From: Healeys on behalf of warthodson at aol.com Sent: March 4, 2018 3:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing I recall seeing a link/article discussing how to add a timing mark on a 100 timing chain cover, but cannot find it. Can someone point me in the right direction? Gary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sun Mar 4 14:18:51 2018 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 10:18:51 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing References: <161f1b364df-1796-3a26@webjas-vab220.srv.aolmail.net> Gary, this should help you. Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Monday, 5 March 2018 4:49 a.m. To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing I recall seeing a link/article discussing how to add a timing mark on a 100 timing chain cover, but cannot find it. Can someone point me in the right direction? Gary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 122119 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 28577 bytes Desc: not available URL: From drmasucci at comcast.net Sun Mar 4 15:48:36 2018 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2018 17:48:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Break in oil Hi all, Well I finally have my BJ8 engine almost ready to go back in the chassis. This rebuild includes minor mods including a Denis Welch DSW-8 cam and bucket followers (with pockets in the block) and high capacity oil pump. This cam is drilled to provide oil to each lobe. The engine was also balanced. Once broken in I plan to run 20W-50 Valvoline racing full synthetic with ZDDP, which I?ve run in my XJ6 since 2012 or so. Based on what?ve I?ve read, I should start and run the engine at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes or so. My question is what should I use for break in? There are so many types. Does anyone have a recommendation? Thanks as always. Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sun Mar 4 17:16:17 2018 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2018 16:16:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing References: <161f1b364df-1796-3a26@webjas-vab220.srv.aolmail.net> Does anyone else have a 100 engine with absolutely no arrow or other marking on the timing cover? The manual seems to think that there is some sort of mark there, but there is none on my engine. So I get to make my own marks, and hope that my effort to hit TDC is good enough for a starting point. -Roland BN1 #724 --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From ab7vf at yahoo.com Sun Mar 4 17:35:53 2018 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 00:35:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing References: <161f1b364df-1796-3a26@webjas-vab220.srv.aolmail.net> From: "sentenac.rw at gmail.com" To: 'Austin Healey list' Sent: Sunday, March 4, 2018 4:30 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 timing Does anyone else have a 100 engine with absolutely no arrow or other marking on the timing cover?? The manual seems to think that there is some sort of mark there, but there is none on my engine.? So I get to make my own marks, and hope that my effort to hit TDC is good enough for a starting point. -Roland BN1 #724 Put something "soft" so as not to damage the piston in the spark plug hole ...Rotate engine clockwise til it bumps .. mark pullyRotate engine counter-clockwise til it bumps ..Mark pully ...TDC is halfway between marks Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sun Mar 4 17:46:00 2018 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2018 19:46:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing Yes, I have no arrow. Or any other kind of marking on my timing cover. My shop manual refers to using the marking on the flywheel to set the timing! Gary -----Original Message----- From: sentenac.rw To: 'Austin Healey list' Cc: warthodson Sent: Sun, Mar 4, 2018 6:16 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 timing Does anyone else have a 100 engine with absolutely no arrow or other marking on the timing cover? The manual seems to think that there is some sort of mark there, but there is none on my engine. So I get to make my own marks, and hope that my effort to hit TDC is good enough for a starting point. -Roland BN1 #724 --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Mar 4 17:48:29 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2018 16:48:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Break in oil References: <836BE289-7234-46D4-A1EA-2C55F5AFED29@comcast.net> My engine builder used Lucas 30W break-in oil.? They also pre-filled the block at the oil pressure line port. Bob On 3/4/2018 2:48 PM, David Masucci wrote: > Hi all, > > Well I finally have my BJ8 engine almost ready to go back in the chassis. This rebuild includes minor mods including a Denis Welch DSW-8 cam and bucket followers (with pockets in the block) and high capacity oil pump. This cam is drilled to provide oil to each lobe. The engine was also balanced. Once broken in I plan to run 20W-50 Valvoline racing full synthetic with ZDDP, which I?ve run in my XJ6 since 2012 or so. > > Based on what?ve I?ve read, I should start and run the engine at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes or so. My question is what should I use for break in? There are so many types. Does anyone have a recommendation? > > Thanks as always. > > Dave > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > > From cnaarndt at gmail.com Sun Mar 4 17:57:20 2018 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2018 16:57:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing References: <161f1b364df-1796-3a26@webjas-vab220.srv.aolmail.net> Here is my timing mark with a pin brazed in place by Lynn Martin at Forever Healeys. Cheers, Curt Arndt Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) '72 RWA Midget, '06 Cooper S On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 4:16 PM, wrote: > Does anyone else have a 100 engine with absolutely no arrow or other > marking on the timing cover? The manual seems to think that there is > some sort of mark there, but there is none on my engine. So I get to > make my own marks, and hope that my effort to hit TDC is good enough > for a starting point. > > -Roland > BN1 #724 > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BN1-2 Added Timing Marker.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27695 bytes Desc: not available URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sun Mar 4 18:03:28 2018 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2018 20:03:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 boot lid "prop rod" The end of my 100 boot lid "prop rod" that is supposed to connect to the bracket on the boot lid has a 3/8" diameter hole in it. I assume it should have a captive bolt of some sort that would fit into the hole in the boot lid bracket & a "self locking" nut would thread on to the end of the captive bolt, after it is inserted into the hole in the bracket. If this is correct? What is the diameter of the captive bolt? How long is the captive bolt? Does the bracket simply pivot on the threaded portion of the bolt? That seems like a bad design! Or does the captive bolt have an unthreaded section? Thanks, Gary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Sun Mar 4 18:15:47 2018 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 01:15:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Stator tube wiring loom References: <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445.ref@mail.yahoo.com> As I am ready to replace the stator wiring loom on the 56 100 BN2, I find the old loom is completely stuck inside the tube.?I have no wires left on the trafficator end.? Pulling the wire on the other end, there is no movement and I am afraid I will break the little that is left from the brittle wires. (not that I need them) Any garage tricks to negotiate these 62 year old wires from the tube?? I already tried WD40 and some modest heat applied to outside of the tube but no luck yet. Bert -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Mar 4 18:32:11 2018 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2018 20:32:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Break in oil References: <836BE289-7234-46D4-A1EA-2C55F5AFED29@comcast.net> ?David-- Though I have never rebuilt my Healey's engine I have broken? in several race engines (MGA and Coventry Climax FWB SOHC) using the same oil I planned to run with: Royal Purple Race Oil RP 40, and added a bottle of zinc additive just to be sure. Before start-up I made sure the timing was where it should be, then poured oil over the rocker arm for the MGA engine and over the camshaft of the Climax, tightened down the valve cover and placed a cooling fan in front of the radiator so that in case engine temps began to rise I could avoid having to shut down, then ran the engine for 20 minutes at about 2K rpm's. That's it--then drain and change the oil and filter, refill and you should be set! Good luck--Michael Oritt On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 5:48 PM, David Masucci wrote: > Hi all, > > Well I finally have my BJ8 engine almost ready to go back in the chassis. > This rebuild includes minor mods including a Denis Welch DSW-8 cam and > bucket followers (with pockets in the block) and high capacity oil pump. > This cam is drilled to provide oil to each lobe. The engine was also > balanced. Once broken in I plan to run 20W-50 Valvoline racing full > synthetic with ZDDP, which I?ve run in my XJ6 since 2012 or so. > > Based on what?ve I?ve read, I should start and run the engine at 2000 RPM > for 20 minutes or so. My question is what should I use for break in? There > are so many types. Does anyone have a recommendation? > > Thanks as always. > > Dave > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Mar 4 19:34:59 2018 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 13:34:59 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Break in oil References: <836BE289-7234-46D4-A1EA-2C55F5AFED29@comcast.net> Hello I have just finished the running-in process (yesterday) with the BN3 using Penrite Running-In Oil. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, 5 March 2018 11:48 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Break in oil My engine builder used Lucas 30W break-in oil. They also pre-filled the block at the oil pressure line port. Bob On 3/4/2018 2:48 PM, David Masucci wrote: > Hi all, > > Well I finally have my BJ8 engine almost ready to go back in the chassis. This rebuild includes minor mods including a Denis Welch DSW-8 cam and bucket followers (with pockets in the block) and high capacity oil pump. This cam is drilled to provide oil to each lobe. The engine was also balanced. Once broken in I plan to run 20W-50 Valvoline racing full synthetic with ZDDP, which I?ve run in my XJ6 since 2012 or so. > > Based on what?ve I?ve read, I should start and run the engine at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes or so. My question is what should I use for break in? There are so many types. Does anyone have a recommendation? > > Thanks as always. > > Dave > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From goldengt at cal.net Sun Mar 4 22:39:58 2018 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2018 21:39:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Break in oil General motors break in oil from the Chevy dealer! or Ford probably has similar.?Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Michael Oritt Date: 3/4/18 5:32 PM (GMT-08:00) To: David Masucci Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Break in oil ?David-- Though I have never rebuilt my Healey's engine I have broken? in several race engines (MGA and Coventry Climax FWB SOHC) using the same oil I planned to run with: Royal Purple Race Oil RP 40, and added a bottle of zinc additive just to be sure.? Before start-up I made sure the timing was where it should be, then poured oil over the rocker arm for the MGA engine and over the camshaft of the Climax, tightened down the valve cover and placed a cooling fan in front of the radiator so that in case engine temps began to rise I could avoid having to shut down, then ran the engine for 20 minutes at about 2K rpm's.? That's it--then drain and change the oil and filter, refill and you should be set! Good luck--Michael Oritt On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 5:48 PM, David Masucci wrote: Hi all, Well I finally have my BJ8 engine almost ready to go back in the chassis. This rebuild includes minor mods including a Denis Welch DSW-8 cam and bucket followers (with pockets in the block) and high capacity oil pump. This cam is drilled to provide oil to each lobe. The engine was also balanced. Once broken in I plan to run 20W-50 Valvoline racing full synthetic with ZDDP, which I?ve run in my XJ6 since 2012 or so. Based on what?ve I?ve read, I should start and run the engine at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes or so. My question is what should I use for break in? There are so many types. Does anyone have a recommendation? Thanks as always. Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Mar 5 02:43:37 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 10:43:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Break in oil References: <836BE289-7234-46D4-A1EA-2C55F5AFED29@comcast.net> There is no clear answer to that question. If the engine has been assembled using graphite/molybdenum grease on the bearings and camshaft, rockers etc. no pre-lube is necessary. If the original tolerances and finishes are used, the running in method given by the manufacturer can be used with an oil and filter change at 300mls or so. If modern tolerances and finishes are used hardly any running in is needed although it does not hurt to take it easy the first few thousands of miles. Running in oil can be used but any good (not recycled) 20W50 oil with a max SG spec. is OK. If the spec is higher you may add a running in dope or oil stabiliser like Lucas or STP or some extra ZDDP containing dope but do not overdo the latter An early oil change is not needed but cannot hurt. Of course there is a whole area in between. To be safe: Squirt some engine oil on top of the pistons. Spin the engine for the first time with the plugs out, coil and fuel pump disconnected until you have oil pressure, only then fit the plugs and connect the coil and fuel pump again and start up the engine. It will smoke like hell for a few minutes. Let it run stationary for a few minutes an check the oil pressure. For longevity run the engine for long stretches (50mls+) at no more than 2000-2500rpm and with a feather light foot for the first few hundred miles and than increase load and speed gradually up to say 5000mls, always being certain that the engine is hot when putting some load on the engine. Change oil at 500mls and than yearly assuming you will not do more than 5000mls a year. Use proper 50/50 coolant, absolutely not water only!!! Fit the correct sleeved thermostat (important to get even and proper cooling) and check oil pressure and coolant temperature regularly. Kees Oudesluijs Op 4-3-2018 om 23:48 schreef David Masucci: > Hi all, > > Well I finally have my BJ8 engine almost ready to go back in the chassis. This rebuild includes minor mods including a Denis Welch DSW-8 cam and bucket followers (with pockets in the block) and high capacity oil pump. This cam is drilled to provide oil to each lobe. The engine was also balanced. Once broken in I plan to run 20W-50 Valvoline racing full synthetic with ZDDP, which I?ve run in my XJ6 since 2012 or so. > > Based on what?ve I?ve read, I should start and run the engine at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes or so. My question is what should I use for break in? There are so many types. Does anyone have a recommendation? > > Thanks as always. > > Dave > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Mar 5 09:52:47 2018 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 08:52:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing References: <161f1b364df-1796-3a26@webjas-vab220.srv.aolmail.net> BN1 s did not have any timing marks. Then on the later BN1 and BN2 they added a embossed arrow in the cover and a hole in the pulley. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhall.org From: Curtis Arndt Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2018 4:57 PM To: Roland Wilhelmy Cc: Austin Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 timing Here is my timing mark with a pin brazed in place by Lynn Martin at Forever Healeys. Cheers, Curt Arndt Carlsbad, CA '55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{) '72 RWA Midget, '06 Cooper S On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 4:16 PM, wrote: Does anyone else have a 100 engine with absolutely no arrow or other marking on the timing cover? The manual seems to think that there is some sort of mark there, but there is none on my engine. So I get to make my own marks, and hope that my effort to hit TDC is good enough for a starting point. -Roland BN1 #724 --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Mar 5 14:26:03 2018 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 21:26:03 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 hardtop Hi, See:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-MK3-FACTORY-HARDTOP-VERY-RARE/14269 6597823?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT &_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Is that a genuine BMC article? Isn't the window too big? Just curious..I'm not after it; I have a BT7 (and a hardtop). Yes, it came from a "factory", but which one? And it seems a bit pricey? Particularly if it's not the Real Thing. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Mar 5 14:37:45 2018 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 21:37:45 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis seams Another question tonight.. Some time soonish I'm having a plate welded to the front cross-member of my MkII's chassis. (For jacking). I grovel under the car, as best I can, and I wonder about the seam running down the centre of the chassis members...they bulge(?) downward/outwards. And that, presumably, will hinder getting the plate on nice and flat. Now, is that seam a hollow bulge which, if ground off flush, would cause the cross-member to split? Or, is the seam a weld? ie the chassis is two U-sections welded together, top and bottom..So, a bit of judicious grinding wouldn't hurt. If you see what I mean.? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Mar 5 16:19:51 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 18:19:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Stator tube wiring loom References: <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445@mail.yahoo.com> Maybe give oven cleaner a try? On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 8:15 PM, Bert Van Brande wrote: > > As I am ready to replace the stator wiring loom on the 56 100 BN2, I find > the old loom is completely stuck inside the tube. > I have no wires left on the trafficator end. Pulling the wire on the > other end, there is no movement and I am afraid I will break the little > that is left from the brittle wires. (not that I need them) > > Any garage tricks to negotiate these 62 year old wires from the tube? I > already tried WD40 and some modest heat applied to outside of the tube but > no luck yet. > > Bert > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Mon Mar 5 19:15:31 2018 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 18:15:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Stator tube wiring loom References: <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445@mail.yahoo.com> Alan, Been there done that. Typically the old stator tube is so rusty as to make messing with this NOT worth my time and effort. The wires are sometimes near impossible to remove. Moss sells a really nice stator tube, and the new wiring harness fits down very nicely without having to cut off one of the bullets. What I'm saying is that IF you can get the wires out, the inside of the tube will still be a bloody mess. I know, I just built up a 100M trafficator switch for an owner in Arizona. His stator tube was very rusted and the wires would not budge. In the trash it went, and I ordered one from Moss. And yes, I saved the almost impossible to find "Lantern" spring on the stator tube! Plus, who would want to pt their switch on a rusty old stator tube? I have not forgotten, just busy. I'll email you about mailing the battery cases to Michael Cheers, Curt On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 3:19 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Maybe give oven cleaner a try? > > On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 8:15 PM, Bert Van Brande > wrote: > >> >> As I am ready to replace the stator wiring loom on the 56 100 BN2, I find >> the old loom is completely stuck inside the tube. >> I have no wires left on the trafficator end. Pulling the wire on the >> other end, there is no movement and I am afraid I will break the little >> that is left from the brittle wires. (not that I need them) >> >> Any garage tricks to negotiate these 62 year old wires from the tube? I >> already tried WD40 and some modest heat applied to outside of the tube but >> no luck yet. >> >> Bert >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Seigrist-2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 43044 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Seigrist-3.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83076 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 5 20:02:04 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 19:02:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis seams References: <003601d3b4ca$338bf4c0$9aa3de40$@homecall.co.uk> It's a seam weld. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sent: Monday, March 5, 2018 1:38 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Chassis seams Another question tonight.. Some time soonish I'm having a plate welded to the front cross-member of my MkII's chassis. (For jacking). I grovel under the car, as best I can, and I wonder about the seam running down the centre of the chassis members...they bulge(?) downward/outwards. And that, presumably, will hinder getting the plate on nice and flat. Now, is that seam a hollow bulge which, if ground off flush, would cause the cross-member to split? Or, is the seam a weld? ie the chassis is two U-sections welded together, top and bottom..So, a bit of judicious grinding wouldn't hurt. If you see what I mean.? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Mon Mar 5 20:55:50 2018 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 19:55:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Stator tube wiring loom References: <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445@mail.yahoo.com> What is a "Lantern" spring? On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 6:15 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote: > Alan, > > Been there done that. Typically the old stator tube is so rusty as to > make messing with this NOT worth my time and effort. The wires are > sometimes near impossible to remove. Moss sells a really nice stator tube, > and the new wiring harness fits down very nicely without having to cut off > one of the bullets. What I'm saying is that IF you can get the wires out, > the inside of the tube will still be a bloody mess. > > I know, I just built up a 100M trafficator switch for an owner in > Arizona. His stator tube was very rusted and the wires would not budge. > In the trash it went, and I ordered one from Moss. And yes, I saved the > almost impossible to find "Lantern" spring on the stator tube! > > Plus, who would want to pt their switch on a rusty old stator tube? > > I have not forgotten, just busy. I'll email you about mailing the battery > cases to Michael > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 3:19 PM, Alan Seigrist > wrote: > >> Maybe give oven cleaner a try? >> >> On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 8:15 PM, Bert Van Brande >> wrote: >> >>> >>> As I am ready to replace the stator wiring loom on the 56 100 BN2, I >>> find the old loom is completely stuck inside the tube. >>> I have no wires left on the trafficator end. Pulling the wire on the >>> other end, there is no movement and I am afraid I will break the little >>> that is left from the brittle wires. (not that I need them) >>> >>> Any garage tricks to negotiate these 62 year old wires from the tube? I >>> already tried WD40 and some modest heat applied to outside of the tube but >>> no luck yet. >>> >>> Bert >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Mon Mar 5 21:49:38 2018 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 04:49:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Chassis seams References: <003601d3b4ca$338bf4c0$9aa3de40$@homecall.co.uk> From: "simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk" To: 'Healey List' Sent: Monday, March 5, 2018 4:38 PM Subject: [Healeys] Chassis seams Another question tonight?.Some time soonish I?m having a plate welded to the front cross-member of my MkII?s chassis. (For jacking). I grovel under the car, as best I can, and I wonder about the seam running down the centre of the chassis members?..they bulge(?) downward/outwards. And that, presumably, will hinder getting the plate on nice and flat.Now, is that seam a hollow bulge which, if ground off flush, would cause the cross-member to split? Or, is the seam a weld? ie the chassis is two U-sections welded together, top and bottom?.So, a bit of judicious grinding wouldn?t hurt.If you see what I mean??Simon My Interpretation on examination on my frame is that the seam is 'edge welded' .. the two pieces of the frame were shaped/bent in a C section with approximately 3/8" flanges on each edge.? These were then joined by welding along the edge of these flanges. Why not make a flat plate with a groove down it to fit on your jack to mate with the frame ...the flange fitting in the groove flatly stabilizing the jacking point in the process Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 5 22:33:04 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 21:33:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Stator tube wiring loom References: <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445@mail.yahoo.com> If your healey has an adjustable steering wheel the stator tube is most likely cracked and needs to be replaced John ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curtis Arndt Sent: Monday, March 5, 2018 6:16 PM To: Alan Seigrist Cc: Ahealey Help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stator tube wiring loom Alan, ? And yes, I saved the almost impossible to find "Lantern" spring on the stator tube! ? Cheers, Curt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Mar 5 22:35:06 2018 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 18:35:06 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Stator tube wiring loom References: <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445@mail.yahoo.com> Lantern spring On Tue, Mar 6, 2018 at 4:55 PM, richard mayor wrote: > What is a "Lantern" spring? > > On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 6:15 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote: > >> Alan, >> >> Been there done that. Typically the old stator tube is so rusty as to >> make messing with this NOT worth my time and effort. The wires are >> sometimes near impossible to remove. Moss sells a really nice stator tube, >> and the new wiring harness fits down very nicely without having to cut off >> one of the bullets. What I'm saying is that IF you can get the wires out, >> the inside of the tube will still be a bloody mess. >> >> I know, I just built up a 100M trafficator switch for an owner in >> Arizona. His stator tube was very rusted and the wires would not budge. >> In the trash it went, and I ordered one from Moss. And yes, I saved the >> almost impossible to find "Lantern" spring on the stator tube! >> >> Plus, who would want to pt their switch on a rusty old stator tube? >> >> I have not forgotten, just busy. I'll email you about mailing the >> battery cases to Michael >> >> Cheers, >> >> Curt >> >> On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 3:19 PM, Alan Seigrist >> wrote: >> >>> Maybe give oven cleaner a try? >>> >>> On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 8:15 PM, Bert Van Brande >> > wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> As I am ready to replace the stator wiring loom on the 56 100 BN2, I >>>> find the old loom is completely stuck inside the tube. >>>> I have no wires left on the trafficator end. Pulling the wire on the >>>> other end, there is no movement and I am afraid I will break the little >>>> that is left from the brittle wires. (not that I need them) >>>> >>>> Any garage tricks to negotiate these 62 year old wires from the tube? >>>> I already tried WD40 and some modest heat applied to outside of the tube >>>> but no luck yet. >>>> >>>> Bert >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>>> options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 70957 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Mar 5 23:24:29 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 22:24:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Stator tube wiring loom References: <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445@mail.yahoo.com> It rests in the steering column . The stator tube goes through it and it keeps the stator tube from rattling and centered in the steering column about 1.5 inches long. Ira Erbs Portland, OR On Mar 5, 2018 9:02 PM, "richard mayor" wrote: > What is a "Lantern" spring? > > On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 6:15 PM, Curtis Arndt wrote: > >> Alan, >> >> Been there done that. Typically the old stator tube is so rusty as to >> make messing with this NOT worth my time and effort. The wires are >> sometimes near impossible to remove. Moss sells a really nice stator tube, >> and the new wiring harness fits down very nicely without having to cut off >> one of the bullets. What I'm saying is that IF you can get the wires out, >> the inside of the tube will still be a bloody mess. >> >> I know, I just built up a 100M trafficator switch for an owner in >> Arizona. His stator tube was very rusted and the wires would not budge. >> In the trash it went, and I ordered one from Moss. And yes, I saved the >> almost impossible to find "Lantern" spring on the stator tube! >> >> Plus, who would want to pt their switch on a rusty old stator tube? >> >> I have not forgotten, just busy. I'll email you about mailing the >> battery cases to Michael >> >> Cheers, >> >> Curt >> >> On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 3:19 PM, Alan Seigrist >> wrote: >> >>> Maybe give oven cleaner a try? >>> >>> On Sun, Mar 4, 2018 at 8:15 PM, Bert Van Brande >> > wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> As I am ready to replace the stator wiring loom on the 56 100 BN2, I >>>> find the old loom is completely stuck inside the tube. >>>> I have no wires left on the trafficator end. Pulling the wire on the >>>> other end, there is no movement and I am afraid I will break the little >>>> that is left from the brittle wires. (not that I need them) >>>> >>>> Any garage tricks to negotiate these 62 year old wires from the tube? >>>> I already tried WD40 and some modest heat applied to outside of the tube >>>> but no luck yet. >>>> >>>> Bert >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>>> options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Mar 6 00:48:47 2018 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 07:48:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 hardtop References: <003101d3b4c8$90f635f0$b2e2a1d0$@homecall.co.uk> The angle of the photo doesn't help but it looks like a real one. The convertible hardtops have a bigger window than the roadsters and they do not have the aluminium support bars. And they are rare. Derek On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 9:26 PM, wrote: > Hi, > > See:- > > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-MK3-FACTORY-HARDTOP-VERY-RARE/ > 142696597823?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 > > > > Is that a genuine BMC article? Isn?t the window too big? Just curious?.I?m > not after it; I have a BT7 (and a hardtop). > > Yes, it came from a ?factory?, but which one? > > And it seems a bit pricey? Particularly if it?s not the Real Thing? > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Tue Mar 6 01:51:39 2018 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 09:51:39 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis seams References: <003601d3b4ca$338bf4c0$9aa3de40$@homecall.co.uk> Simon Don?t do this, it will only trap water and look very, well, unprofessional. And it wont help, it will also be damaged by the jack. Use a piece of wood, 2?by3? on top of your jack instead. If you really want something welded you should replace that piece of the frame with something that has a standing plate inside it. Best regards, Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 5 mars 2018 kl. 22:37 skrev : > > Another question tonight?. > Some time soonish I?m having a plate welded to the front cross-member of my MkII?s chassis. (For jacking). I grovel under the car, as best I can, and I wonder about the seam running down the centre of the chassis members?..they bulge(?) downward/outwards. And that, presumably, will hinder getting the plate on nice and flat. > Now, is that seam a hollow bulge which, if ground off flush, would cause the cross-member to split? Or, is the seam a weld? ie the chassis is two U-sections welded together, top and bottom?.So, a bit of judicious grinding wouldn?t hurt. > If you see what I mean?? > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Tue Mar 6 01:59:01 2018 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 09:59:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 hardtop References: <003101d3b4c8$90f635f0$b2e2a1d0$@homecall.co.uk> Looks like it?s the real thing. However, the window looks very dark. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 6 mars 2018 kl. 08:48 skrev Derek Job : > > The angle of the photo doesn't help but it looks like a real one. The convertible hardtops have a bigger window than the roadsters and they do not have the aluminium support bars. And they are rare. > > Derek > >> On Mon, Mar 5, 2018 at 9:26 PM, wrote: >> Hi, >> >> See:- >> >> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-MK3-FACTORY-HARDTOP-VERY-RARE/142696597823?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 >> >> >> >> Is that a genuine BMC article? Isn?t the window too big? Just curious?.I?m not after it; I have a BT7 (and a hardtop). >> >> Yes, it came from a ?factory?, but which one? >> >> And it seems a bit pricey? Particularly if it?s not the Real Thing? >> >> Simon >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rianhey at btinternet.com Tue Mar 6 05:16:06 2018 From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 12:16:06 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis seams The 3000 chassis is two top hat sections welded together along the short hat brims which project up and down from the chassis. These are then welded together, which produces the seam which is visible above and below the chassis. If you grind off this seam the two halves of the chassis will be separated. (Also applies to front cross member) My solution to not damaging the chassis when jacking is a wooden beam (3" x 2") situated on my trolley jack with wooden packings to make sure that the seam is not in contact when the chassis is lifted. This spans full chassis width and spreads the load, and a wooden lug fits my trolley jack. The wood is not strong enough to support the car on its own, but does enough to spread the load that the chassis is not damaged. The dimensions must ensure that the wooden packings support the vertical chassis sections, which will not deflect, thus avoiding the application of load to the chassis sections adjacent to the welds, which will deflect. See photos. I will eventually do a shorter metal support, with wood packings, to fit my trolley jack. Ian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2018-03-06 Front x member jacking device.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 43128 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2018-03-06 Front x member jacking device 2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 43847 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Mar 6 07:43:52 2018 From: bluehealey at gmail.com ('bluehealey') Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 14:43:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis seams References: <82312964A06E4F14A9D3E3B3BA3F26EA@Spider> That?s a nice job Ian, but you will find the ends will foul the Spring retaining lower plate (between the A arms) when the suspension is installed. The seam gaps in the packers will prevent the spreader slipping so the ends are not essential. AlanB - iPhone message. > On 6 Mar 2018, at 12:16, Ian Hey wrote: > > The 3000 chassis is two top hat sections welded together along the short hat brims which project up and down from the chassis. These are then welded together, which produces the seam which is visible above and below the chassis. If you grind off this seam the two halves of the chassis will be separated. (Also applies to front cross member) > > My solution to not damaging the chassis when jacking is a wooden beam (3? x 2?) situated on my trolley jack with wooden packings to make sure that the seam is not in contact when the chassis is lifted. This spans full chassis width and spreads the load, and a wooden lug fits my trolley jack. The wood is not strong enough to support the car on its own, but does enough to spread the load that the chassis is not damaged. The dimensions must ensure that the wooden packings support the vertical chassis sections, which will not deflect, thus avoiding the application of load to the chassis sections adjacent to the welds, which will deflect. See photos. > > I will eventually do a shorter metal support, with wood packings, to fit my trolley jack. > > Ian > > > > > <2018-03-06 Front x member jacking device.JPG> > <2018-03-06 Front x member jacking device 2.JPG> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rianhey at btinternet.com Tue Mar 6 08:00:31 2018 From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 15:00:31 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis seams References: <82312964A06E4F14A9D3E3B3BA3F26EA@Spider> I had not thought of that! The suspension has not been on for nearly 30 years! When I get the suspension on I will take a saw to the ends of my wooden piece. Ian _____ From: 'bluehealey' [mailto:bluehealey at gmail.com] Sent: 06 March 2018 14:44 To: Ian Hey Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chassis seams That's a nice job Ian, but you will find the ends will foul the Spring retaining lower plate (between the A arms) when the suspension is installed. The seam gaps in the packers will prevent the spreader slipping so the ends are not essential. AlanB - iPhone message. On 6 Mar 2018, at 12:16, Ian Hey wrote: The 3000 chassis is two top hat sections welded together along the short hat brims which project up and down from the chassis. These are then welded together, which produces the seam which is visible above and below the chassis. If you grind off this seam the two halves of the chassis will be separated. (Also applies to front cross member) My solution to not damaging the chassis when jacking is a wooden beam (3" x 2") situated on my trolley jack with wooden packings to make sure that the seam is not in contact when the chassis is lifted. This spans full chassis width and spreads the load, and a wooden lug fits my trolley jack. The wood is not strong enough to support the car on its own, but does enough to spread the load that the chassis is not damaged. The dimensions must ensure that the wooden packings support the vertical chassis sections, which will not deflect, thus avoiding the application of load to the chassis sections adjacent to the welds, which will deflect. See photos. I will eventually do a shorter metal support, with wood packings, to fit my trolley jack. Ian <2018-03-06 Front x member jacking device.JPG> <2018-03-06 Front x member jacking device 2.JPG> _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Tue Mar 6 09:38:14 2018 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2018 08:38:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Break_in_oil?= I used Joe Gibbs Driven BR 15w-50 break-in oil. According to Lake Speed Jr., Joe Gibbs Racing breaks in 200 engines a year with it. Bought a 10qt bottle on Amazon. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 with 29D Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Mar 6 12:31:05 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 11:31:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan If you have some extra cash rolling around in ajar and are looking to spend on something cool. Take a look https://tinyurl.com/yaray4zh These are the times I wish I were really rich... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Tue Mar 6 16:38:26 2018 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 23:38:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Re - Stator tube References: <924743144.17872729.1520379506385.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Did the same job on my '56 BN2 a few years ago. Heated the tube up with a propane torch at the same time as pulling carefully on the wires. Took a few minutes but worked for me. My stator tube wasn't overly rusty, but seemed to be full of a black pitch like substance. Once all that had melted and run out, the new loom pulled in fine. Mike BrooksScotland Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Mar 7 16:09:17 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 23:09:17 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] test Sorry. In the throes of mail meltdown -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Mar 8 11:49:14 2018 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 13:49:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 6 web site Another milestone. Just crossed the 100K visit threshold. Thanks everyone for your contributions and visits. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Mar 8 13:12:25 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 15:12:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 6 web site References: <004c01d3b70e$27e57290$77b057b0$@verizon.net> BEST WEBSITE EVER! WHY AM I SHOUTING? BECAUSE IT'S AWESOME! On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 1:49 PM, John Sims wrote: > Another milestone. Just crossed the 100K visit threshold. Thanks everyone > for your contributions and visits. > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Mar 8 14:17:21 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 13:17:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 6 web site References: <004c01d3b70e$27e57290$77b057b0$@verizon.net> ????? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 10:49 AM, John Sims wrote: > Another milestone. Just crossed the 100K visit threshold. Thanks everyone > for your contributions and visits. > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Thu Mar 8 15:53:04 2018 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 22:53:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Horns References: <1083649414.13726250.1520549585296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> My horns are ready to put back together thanks to help and support from folks on the list. I'm hoping everything works and I can get things adjusted OK. The inner workings look pretty clean so fingers crossed that electrical winding and and wiring are good. Points carefully cleaned and new gaskets cut. Is there anything I have missed or should look out for on re-assembly? What is the wisdom of the list. Thanks allRayYes I know the acorn nut is supposed to be paint and not polished. I just couldn't help myself. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1969.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 619692 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Mar 8 19:09:06 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 18:09:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Horns References: <1083649414.13726250.1520549585296.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1083649414.13726250.1520549585296@mail.yahoo.com> As usual, your work looks great. Ira Erbs Portland, OR On Mar 8, 2018 5:01 PM, "Ray Juncal" wrote: > My horns are ready to put back together thanks to help and support from > folks on the list. I'm hoping everything works and I can get things > adjusted OK. The inner workings look pretty clean so fingers crossed that > electrical winding and and wiring are good. Points carefully cleaned and > new gaskets cut. Is there anything I have missed or should look out for on > re-assembly? What is the wisdom of the list. > Thanks all > Ray > Yes I know the acorn nut is supposed to be paint and not polished. I just > couldn't help myself. > > [image: Inline image] > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1969.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 619692 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Mar 8 20:30:31 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 03:30:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Early 100 brake drums References: <505576531.13014056.1520566231828.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Can someone tell me if 100 brake drums were balanced at the factory?? Both drums I obtained from a list member (Thanks, you know who you are) and both have a section ground off like it has been balanced.? See picture.? I have also seen this ground off section in a picture in "Austin Healey in Detail" by Bill Piggot.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20180308_192857.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3207300 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Mar 8 21:26:35 2018 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 04:26:35 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Horns References: <1083649414.13726250.1520549585296.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <1083649414.13726250.1520549585296@mail.yahoo.com> Ray, Make sure your gaskets are the same thickness as those you took out. Then reassemble them according to the bulletin you have and test one to see if it is in working order, likely some adjustment will be needed, I use a battery pack to bench test them. Lots of fiddling sometimes, other times you get a good tone right off the bat. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Ray Juncal Sent: March 8, 2018 10:53 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Horns My horns are ready to put back together thanks to help and support from folks on the list. I'm hoping everything works and I can get things adjusted OK. The inner workings look pretty clean so fingers crossed that electrical winding and and wiring are good. Points carefully cleaned and new gaskets cut. Is there anything I have missed or should look out for on re-assembly? What is the wisdom of the list. Thanks all Ray Yes I know the acorn nut is supposed to be paint and not polished. I just couldn't help myself. [Inline image] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1969.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 619692 bytes Desc: IMG_1969.JPG URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 8 22:20:37 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 21:20:37 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan References: Very nice! From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 11:31 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan If you have some extra cash rolling around in ajar and are looking to spend on something cool. Take a look https://tinyurl.com/yaray4zh These are the times I wish I were really rich... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Fri Mar 9 00:52:42 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 07:52:42 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Chassis-cross member and BJ8 hardtop Thank you all for the replies. Sorry not to have said so earlier, but my email packed up. Specifically, I found that I could receive, but not transmit..on either of my machines with two different programs. Trouble being, I'm advised, that we persistently used our original, say 20+/- years, email addresses and their associated servers. Apparently, one can be paying one ISP whilst one's emails still go through another ISP's hardware..a sort of mutual laissez-faire arrangement. We think that, after God knows how many take-overs and mergers, our original SMTP(?) server has been taken offline. I'm now in way over my head so will cease. It seems that the hardtop is very probably genuine, though likely modified. I am advised that the vendor is sound. I have no interest in purchasing the thing, just curious. As for the cross-member, I received very divergent advice and some nice diagrams and pictures. Suggestions came in varying from some pretty radical surgery as suggested by the interventionists to "don't touch and jack it up with wooden pads". (I can't do the latter as I have purchased a sort of clever-clogs drive on ramp with cross members. Very sturdy, but the cross members are obviously designed for, say, bottle jacks and their positioning makes the use of wooden blocks difficult and the use of bottle jacks very easy...Hence the plate). For anyone who contacts me off the List, I am now: Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Mar 9 01:46:40 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 09:46:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 6 web site References: <004c01d3b70e$27e57290$77b057b0$@verizon.net> John, Very gratefull for this website. It is of great value to all British car owners, not only Austin-Healey but most British cars are covered to a large extend. Kees Oudesluijs Op 8-3-2018 om 19:49 schreef John Sims: > > Another milestone. Just crossed the 100K visit threshold. Thanks > everyone for your contributions and visits. > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Mar 9 01:51:45 2018 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 09:51:45 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan References: <000001d3b766$5c8343d0$1589cb70$@sbcglobal.net> Stick to your big Healey. If you are not convinced take a spin in a Morgan, that'll teach you!! Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-3-2018 om 6:20 schreef John Spaur: > > Very nice! > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *i erbs > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 6, 2018 11:31 AM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] very cool Morgan > > If you have some extra cash rolling around in ajar and are looking to > spend on something cool. Take a look > https://tinyurl.com/yaray4zh > > These are the times I wish I were really rich... > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ > ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 03:51:05 2018 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 10:51:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan References: <000001d3b766$5c8343d0$1589cb70$@sbcglobal.net> Have to agree with Kees. The ride is appalling. Watch as a Morgan drives towards you. They pitch (front to rear) at an alarming rate of oscillation! As a passenger, sat on the central axis of that motion, the ride is very uncomfortable and insecure. Alan - from my iPad > On 9 Mar 2018, at 08:51, Oudesluys wrote: > > Stick to your big Healey. If you are not convinced take a spin in a Morgan, that'll teach you!! > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 9-3-2018 om 6:20 schreef John Spaur: >> Very nice! >> >> >> >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs >> Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 11:31 AM >> To: Ahealey help >> Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan >> >> >> >> If you have some extra cash rolling around in ajar and are looking to spend on something cool. Take a look >> https://tinyurl.com/yaray4zh >> >> These are the times I wish I were really rich... >> >> >> Ira Erbs >> >> Portland,OR >> >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> >> >> >> 1967 MGB >> >> >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 06:31:26 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 05:31:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan References: <000001d3b766$5c8343d0$1589cb70$@sbcglobal.net> My Healey is a lifetime affair. I have just had as soft spot for Morgans. Ira Erbs Portland, OR On Mar 9, 2018 1:58 AM, "Oudesluys" wrote: > Stick to your big Healey. If you are not convinced take a spin in a > Morgan, that'll teach you!! > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 9-3-2018 om 6:20 schreef John Spaur: > > Very nice! > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *i erbs > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 6, 2018 11:31 AM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] very cool Morgan > > > > If you have some extra cash rolling around in ajar and are looking to > spend on something cool. Take a look > https://tinyurl.com/yaray4zh > > These are the times I wish I were really rich... > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Fri Mar 9 08:45:41 2018 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 15:45:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healey 6 web site References: <004c01d3b70e$27e57290$77b057b0$@verizon.net> Good Day John.? Your website and efforts are appreciated?very much.?? Please, do keep it up.? --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada???? ? - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Thursday, March 8, 2018 3:00 PM, John Sims wrote: Another milestone. Just crossed the 100K visit threshold. Thanks everyone for your contributions and visits. ?John SimsAberdeen, NJ ?www.healey6.com ?_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri Mar 9 10:25:18 2018 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 09:25:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan References: <000001d3b766$5c8343d0$1589cb70$@sbcglobal.net> I would have to disagree entirely. I have owned and restored a couple of 60?s vintage +4?s and currently have a +4 DHC under restoration as well as a modern Morgan 3 wheeler. While the 3 wheeler is a bit of a beast and a little punishing to the driver, the +4?s rode and handled just fine. Maybe not quite as smooth a ride as a big Healey, but certainly a step up from a TR3 in both ride and handling. Interesting that the TR3 and +4 used the same steering gear to wildly different effects ? TR3 steering is sort of like Mr. Toad?s wild ride, and the Morgan is laser accurate. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Friday, March 9, 2018 5:31 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] very cool Morgan My Healey is a lifetime affair. I have just had as soft spot for Morgans. Ira Erbs Portland, OR Stick to your big Healey. If you are not convinced take a spin in a Morgan, that'll teach you!! Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-3-2018 om 6:20 schreef John Spaur: Very nice! From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 11:31 AM Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan If you have some extra cash rolling around in ajar and are looking to spend on something cool. Take a look https://tinyurl.com/yaray4zh These are the times I wish I were really rich... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 10:50:00 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 09:50:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan References: <000001d3b766$5c8343d0$1589cb70$@sbcglobal.net> <000001d3b7cb$99424ea0$cbc6ebe0$@cox.net> Jonas, will you adopt me ? Quite the Morgan collection. I really do love the look of the cars and drove a +4 about 40 years ago and as you say, I had a different driving experience. Oh well, any way you slice it, Morgans are out of my league, but a guy can dream. I do have some lottery tickets to check... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 9:25 AM, wrote: > I would have to disagree entirely. I have owned and restored a couple of > 60?s vintage +4?s and currently have a +4 DHC under restoration as well as > a modern Morgan 3 wheeler. > > > > While the 3 wheeler is a bit of a beast and a little punishing to the > driver, the +4?s rode and handled just fine. Maybe not quite as smooth a > ride as a big Healey, but certainly a step up from a TR3 in both ride and > handling. > > > > Interesting that the TR3 and +4 used the same steering gear to wildly > different effects ? TR3 steering is sort of like Mr. Toad?s wild ride, and > the Morgan is laser accurate. > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 <(702)%20882-6711> > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i > erbs > *Sent:* Friday, March 9, 2018 5:31 AM > *To:* Oudesluys > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] very cool Morgan > > > > My Healey is a lifetime affair. I have just had as soft spot for Morgans. > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > > > > On Mar 9, 2018 1:58 AM, "Oudesluys" wrote: > > Stick to your big Healey. If you are not convinced take a spin in a > Morgan, that'll teach you!! > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 9-3-2018 om 6:20 schreef John Spaur: > > Very nice! > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *i erbs > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 6, 2018 11:31 AM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] very cool Morgan > > > > If you have some extra cash rolling around in ajar and are looking to > spend on something cool. Take a look > https://tinyurl.com/yaray4zh > > These are the times I wish I were really rich... > > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > > > 1967 MGB > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 11:11:14 2018 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 10:11:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Early 100 brake drums References: <505576531.13014056.1520566231828.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <505576531.13014056.1520566231828@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, Mine were the same way. -C On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 7:30 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Can someone tell me if 100 brake drums were balanced at the factory? Both > drums I obtained from a list member (Thanks, you know who you are) and both > have a section ground off like it has been balanced. See picture. I have > also seen this ground off section in a picture in "Austin Healey in Detail" > by Bill Piggot. > Mike MacLean > > > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20180308_192857.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3207300 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 18:10:19 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 17:10:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear seats References: I am working on installing my rear seats. Is there a right and left? I still need to punch the screw holes through. Any guidance would be appreciated. I'm on the home stretch of my restoration. Ira Erbs Portland, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20180309_162542.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2008120 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20180309_162255.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2139188 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eschulz at frontiernet.net Fri Mar 9 21:08:38 2018 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2018 23:08:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap and wires Fellow Listers, I recently purchased a new Lucas side entry distributor cap and new ignition wires. I'm having no success in fastening the wires with the cap's screws. The screws are right up against the bottom stops of the wire holes and the screws have too little wire to bite into. Try as I might, the wires pull out with no effort. What am I missing? Should there be a thimble or sorts or something over the wire's end for the screw to catch? Thanks for your help. Elton BJ7 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 9 23:32:50 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 22:32:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rear seats References: Kind of. You need to put them in place and gauge what feels right. It?s hard to explain but you need to coordinate it with the side panels, seat squab and what not. John Spaur ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Friday, March 9, 2018 5:10 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] Rear seats I am working on installing my rear seats. Is there a right and left? I still need to punch the screw holes through. Any guidance would be appreciated. I'm on the home stretch of my restoration. Ira Erbs Portland, OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 9 23:32:50 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 22:32:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan References: <000001d3b766$5c8343d0$1589cb70$@sbcglobal.net> <5E66A25E-8225-4C78-9029-324809DB0F49@gmail.com> Such an iconic car. A contemporary steering and suspension system would be welcome. John ? sent from my Tianhe-2 supercomputer From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bluehealey Sent: Friday, March 9, 2018 2:51 AM To: Oudesluys Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] very cool Morgan Have to agree with Kees. The ride is appalling. Watch as a Morgan drives towards you. They pitch (front to rear) at an alarming rate of oscillation! As a passenger, sat on the central axis of that motion, the ride is very uncomfortable and insecure. Alan - from my iPad Stick to your big Healey. If you are not convinced take a spin in a Morgan, that'll teach you!! Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-3-2018 om 6:20 schreef John Spaur: Very nice! From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 11:31 AM Subject: [Healeys] very cool Morgan If you have some extra cash rolling around in ajar and are looking to spend on something cool. Take a look https://tinyurl.com/yaray4zh These are the times I wish I were really rich... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Mar 10 04:59:39 2018 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 06:59:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap and wires References: <5AA35A46.1070402@frontiernet.net> what size wires are you attempting to use? Best--Michael Oritt On Mar 10, 2018 3:13 AM, "Elton Schulz" wrote: > Fellow Listers, > I recently purchased a new Lucas side entry distributor cap and new > ignition wires. I'm having no success in fastening the wires with the cap's > screws. The screws are right up against the bottom stops of the wire holes > and the screws have too little wire to bite into. Try as I might, the wires > pull out with no effort. What am I missing? Should there be a thimble or > sorts or something over the wire's end for the screw to catch? > Thanks for your help. > Elton > BJ7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Mar 10 05:23:04 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 07:23:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap and wires References: <5AA35A46.1070402@frontiernet.net> Elton, The screw is suppose to pierce the insulation and solidly contact (embed in?) the copper core at the center of the ignition wire. Doesn't work well with carbon ignition leads. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 03/09/2018 11:08 PM, Elton Schulz wrote: > Fellow Listers, > I recently purchased a new Lucas side entry distributor cap and new > ignition wires. I'm having no success in fastening the wires with the > cap's screws.? The screws are right up against the bottom stops of the > wire holes and the screws have too little wire to bite into. Try as I > might, the wires pull out with no effort.? What am I missing? Should > there be a thimble or sorts or something over the wire's end for the > screw to catch? > Thanks for your help. > Elton > BJ7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > From drmasucci at comcast.net Sat Mar 10 06:15:39 2018 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 08:15:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Radiator re-core References: <20180306163814.2933.qmail@hoster902.com> Hi All, Thanks to all who responded to my break in oil question. It?s good to get a concensus of opinions like that. I have a plan. Now I need to have my radiator rebuilt with a modern higher efficiency core. I assume that I should be able to find a competent shop locally to do the work. I worry that it comes back dimensionally sized correctly so that it fits. Any advice from the group before I go forward with this? Thanks as always! Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 From warthodson at aol.com Sat Mar 10 07:38:07 2018 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 09:38:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap and wires References: <5AA35A46.1070402@frontiernet.net> Are you using copper core wires or carbon fiber core wires? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Elton Schulz To: Healey List Sent: Sat, Mar 10, 2018 2:15 am Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap and wires Fellow Listers, I recently purchased a new Lucas side entry distributor cap and new ignition wires. I'm having no success in fastening the wires with the cap's screws. The screws are right up against the bottom stops of the wire holes and the screws have too little wire to bite into. Try as I might, the wires pull out with no effort. What am I missing? Should there be a thimble or sorts or something over the wire's end for the screw to catch? Thanks for your help. Elton BJ7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Sat Mar 10 08:05:29 2018 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 15:05:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap and wires References: <5AA35A46.1070402@frontiernet.net> <17ba4eeb-fe30-981e-5390-36959301fe9a@earthlink.net> My technique is to remove the bee-sting screws completely. Push the HT lead into the hole and watch the end of the lead pass fully beyond the screw hole until it seats at maximum depth. Then re-insert the screw. As Bob says it doesn?t work too well with carbon string cores. In that case I take a piece of solid copper wire (the earth lead in Twin&Earth domestic cable works). A 1 inch piece folded into a ?U? shape is inserted into the centre core with the second leg down the outside of the insulation. I then insert the HT into the cap and rotate it until the copper staple can be seen down the screw hole. The bee-sting screw then picks up on both legs of the copper staple as it penetrates through the centre. The copper spreads the contact over more string and ensures continuity. Alan - from my iPad Bluehealey > On 10 Mar 2018, at 12:23, Bob Haskell wrote: > > Elton, > > The screw is suppose to pierce the insulation and solidly contact (embed in?) the copper core at the center of the ignition wire. Doesn't work well with carbon ignition leads. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >> On 03/09/2018 11:08 PM, Elton Schulz wrote: >> Fellow Listers, >> I recently purchased a new Lucas side entry distributor cap and new ignition wires. I'm having no success in fastening the wires with the cap's screws. The screws are right up against the bottom stops of the wire holes and the screws have too little wire to bite into. Try as I might, the wires pull out with no effort. What am I missing? Should there be a thimble or sorts or something over the wire's end for the screw to catch? >> Thanks for your help. >> Elton >> BJ7 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sat Mar 10 08:06:47 2018 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 10:06:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap and wires References: <5AA35A46.1070402@frontiernet.net> Elton. Make sure you have the screws backed right out so that the wires insert all the way. To be certain, stick a screwdriver or something into one of the holes, measure the depth, and mark the depth on the wires, perhaps with a piece of tape. Then when you insert the plug wire you know if you have it inserted all the way. Then the screws should tighten in, piercing the insulation and the copper core. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Elton Schulz Sent: March-09-18 11:09 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap and wires Fellow Listers, I recently purchased a new Lucas side entry distributor cap and new ignition wires. I'm having no success in fastening the wires with the cap's screws. The screws are right up against the bottom stops of the wire holes and the screws have too little wire to bite into. Try as I might, the wires pull out with no effort. What am I missing? Should there be a thimble or sorts or something over the wire's end for the screw to catch? Thanks for your help. Elton BJ7 _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From ab7vf at yahoo.com Sat Mar 10 09:01:38 2018 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 16:01:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap and wires References: <5AA35A46.1070402@frontiernet.net> From: Elton Schulz To: Healey List Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 12:12 AM Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap and wires Fellow Listers, I recently purchased a new Lucas side entry distributor cap and new ignition wires. I'm having no success in fastening the wires with the cap's screws.? The screws are right up against the bottom stops of the wire holes and the screws have too little wire to bite into. Try as I might, the wires pull out with no effort.? What am I missing? Should there be a thimble or sorts or something over the wire's end for the screw to catch? Thanks for your help. Elton BJ7 ?? Cut the wires (longer bare end) and double them over ...doubled up ends under the screws Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Mar 10 10:29:23 2018 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 10:29:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Distributor cap and wires References: <5AA35A46.1070402@frontiernet.net> <17ba4eeb-fe30-981e-5390-36959301fe9a@earthlink.net> <07D36A73-1C0D-47E3-945E-7E60E00372FC@gmail.com> 15-too young, 36-too old, 24-just right?? Just in case you've forgotten the firing order... LOL On 3/10/2018 8:05 AM, Bluehealey wrote: > My technique is to remove the bee-sting screws completely. Push the HT lead into the hole and watch the end of the lead pass fully beyond the screw hole until it seats at maximum depth. Then re-insert the screw. > As Bob says it doesn?t work too well with carbon string cores. In that case I take a piece of solid copper wire (the earth lead in Twin&Earth domestic cable works). A 1 inch piece folded into a ?U? shape is inserted into the centre core with the second leg down the outside of the insulation. I then insert the HT into the cap and rotate it until the copper staple can be seen down the screw hole. The bee-sting screw then picks up on both legs of the copper staple as it penetrates through the centre. The copper spreads the contact over more string and ensures continuity. > > Alan - from my iPad > Bluehealey >> On 10 Mar 2018, at 12:23, Bob Haskell wrote: >> >> Elton, >> >> The screw is suppose to pierce the insulation and solidly contact (embed in?) the copper core at the center of the ignition wire. Doesn't work well with carbon ignition leads. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >>> On 03/09/2018 11:08 PM, Elton Schulz wrote: >>> Fellow Listers, >>> I recently purchased a new Lucas side entry distributor cap and new ignition wires. I'm having no success in fastening the wires with the cap's screws. The screws are right up against the bottom stops of the wire holes and the screws have too little wire to bite into. Try as I might, the wires pull out with no effort. What am I missing? Should there be a thimble or sorts or something over the wire's end for the screw to catch? >>> Thanks for your help. >>> Elton >>> BJ7 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2902 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From eschulz at frontiernet.net Sat Mar 10 11:26:19 2018 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 13:26:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Radiator re-core References: <20180306163814.2933.qmail@hoster902.com> If you are able to reuse the original side rails and top and bottom tanks, it should fit. Elton On 3/10/2018 8:15 AM, David Masucci wrote: > Hi All, > > Thanks to all who responded to my break in oil question. It?s good to get a concensus of opinions like that. I have a plan. > > Now I need to have my radiator rebuilt with a modern higher efficiency core. I assume that I should be able to find a competent shop locally to do the work. I worry that it comes back dimensionally sized correctly so that it fits. Any advice from the group before I go forward with this? > > Thanks as always! > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 10 18:00:59 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock British Car Specialists) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 17:00:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Radiator re-core References: <20180306163814.2933.qmail@hoster902.com> We have recorded radiators with special heavy duty cores in stock. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 Enjoy www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs . . Sent from my iPad > On Mar 10, 2018, at 5:15 AM, David Masucci wrote: > > Hi All, > > Thanks to all who responded to my break in oil question. It?s good to get a concensus of opinions like that. I have a plan. > > Now I need to have my radiator rebuilt with a modern higher efficiency core. I assume that I should be able to find a competent shop locally to do the work. I worry that it comes back dimensionally sized correctly so that it fits. Any advice from the group before I go forward with this? > > Thanks as always! > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sat Mar 10 21:27:06 2018 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 20:27:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?curious?= pulled the pistons from a BT7 and was cleaning them up and got curious as to the markings. there is a diamond with a 2 in it stamped in the center of the piston and a marking that says front and above it is ID25. anybody know what these markings mean. has the diameter of a standard piston. From manifold at telus.net Sun Mar 11 17:00:58 2018 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 16:00:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Radiator re-core References: <20180306163814.2933.qmail@hoster902.com> umS3eKvonlebYumS5egWq2 Dave, I had a healey radiator recored about a year ago. I took it to a shop that recores highway trucks and industrial radiators as automotive shops don't seem to do this type of work anymore. Once you find a shop that can do the work discuss the make up of the core they can provide. The number of cooling fins per inch is about 12 but check your core and there should be at least 4 rows of tubes. If you can increase the number rows of tubes to 5 it mat provide additional cooling. The top tank, bottom tank and side should be reused. The finished product should be painted and pressured tested before it is returned to you. Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Elton Schulz Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 10:26 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core If you are able to reuse the original side rails and top and bottom tanks, it should fit. Elton On 3/10/2018 8:15 AM, David Masucci wrote: > Hi All, > > Thanks to all who responded to my break in oil question. It's good to get a concensus of opinions like that. I have a plan. > > Now I need to have my radiator rebuilt with a modern higher efficiency core. I assume that I should be able to find a competent shop locally to do the work. I worry that it comes back dimensionally sized correctly so that it fits. Any advice from the group before I go forward with this? > > Thanks as always! > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Sun Mar 11 18:58:05 2018 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 00:58:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Stator tube wiring loom succes! References: <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1670068438.10599029.1520212547445@mail.yahoo.com> thanks for all the suggestions, it worked!? I ended up drilling the lower portion of the wire out, pouring in some acetone to soften up the wires further, but not sure if this really helped.? Next day I used a 25" long 1/4" drill bit and after about 15-20" of drilling, which takes time, the wire harness started to shift and I was able to pull it out from the top.? ?But there was no way to pull a new cable through.? ?A 5/16 long masonry drill ($2.99 OSH clearance bin) ground down to stator tube inner diameter, about 9/32", was used to drill out all the rust, quite a bit came out of there!? ?Then a night soak in Evaporust and the harness (cotton/braided) slid right through without any cutting of bullets. Kurt was right about the rust, the wire harness cover wicks up moisture and the tube rust from the inside out, reducing the inner diameter of the tube. The Moto Lita boss need some machining to make room for the canceling arm but there was also a 3/32" or about 2.5mm protrusion of the splined section inside that needed to be milled off. Getting closer... Bert -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5136_Scaled.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 384675 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Sun Mar 11 19:58:38 2018 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 01:58:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Radiator re-core References: <20180306163814.2933.qmail@hoster902.com> umS3eKvonlebYumS5egWq2, Harold's advice is excellent and if followed should achieve a great result. A couple of other points. 1. Frequently there is little wrong with an original radiator if the shop can "rod out" the core which involves removing one tank. 2. I would not recommend having the shop paint the finished product. They seem to use a very thick type of paint which never lools correct. After getting the rad back with no paint carefully degrease it then spray with satin blach from a rattle can, the result will be far superior. M ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Harold Manifold Sent: Monday, March 12, 2018 12:00:58 PM To: 'Elton Schulz'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core Dave, I had a healey radiator recored about a year ago. I took it to a shop that recores highway trucks and industrial radiators as automotive shops don't seem to do this type of work anymore. Once you find a shop that can do the work discuss the make up of the core they can provide. The number of cooling fins per inch is about 12 but check your core and there should be at least 4 rows of tubes. If you can increase the number rows of tubes to 5 it mat provide additional cooling. The top tank, bottom tank and side should be reused. The finished product should be painted and pressured tested before it is returned to you. Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Elton Schulz Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 10:26 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core If you are able to reuse the original side rails and top and bottom tanks, it should fit. Elton On 3/10/2018 8:15 AM, David Masucci wrote: > Hi All, > > Thanks to all who responded to my break in oil question. It's good to get a concensus of opinions like that. I have a plan. > > Now I need to have my radiator rebuilt with a modern higher efficiency core. I assume that I should be able to find a competent shop locally to do the work. I worry that it comes back dimensionally sized correctly so that it fits. Any advice from the group before I go forward with this? > > Thanks as always! > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cpcooper at ymail.com Tue Mar 13 14:16:45 2018 From: cpcooper at ymail.com (Craig Cooper) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 20:16:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 89 References: Forgive me if I am posting incorrectly here, but I am searching for a list of fasteners posted some time ago entitled?? "Bolts, nuts & washers and more for BN2 cataloged.." Anyone know where I might find it? Thanks,? Craig On Monday, March 12, 2018 11:45 AM, "healeys-request at autox.team.net" wrote: Send Healeys mailing list submissions to ??? healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. Re: Radiator re-core (Harold Manifold) ? 2. Stator tube wiring loom succes! (Bert Van Brande) ? 3. Re: Radiator re-core (Michael Salter) Dave, I had a healey radiator recored about a year ago. I took it to a shop that recores highway trucks and industrial radiators as automotive shops don't seem to do this type of work anymore. Once you find a shop that can do the work discuss the make up of the core they can provide. The number of cooling fins per inch is about 12 but check your core and there should be at least 4 rows of tubes. If you can increase the number rows of tubes to 5 it mat provide additional cooling. The top tank, bottom tank and side should be reused. The finished product should be painted and pressured tested before it is returned to you. Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Elton Schulz Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 10:26 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core If you are able to reuse the original side rails and top and bottom tanks, it should fit. Elton On 3/10/2018 8:15 AM, David Masucci wrote: > Hi All, > > Thanks to all who responded to my break in oil question. It's good to get a concensus of opinions like that. I have a plan. > > Now I need to have my radiator rebuilt with a modern higher efficiency core. I assume that I should be able to find a competent shop locally to do the work. I worry that it comes back dimensionally sized correctly so that it fits. Any advice from the group before I go forward with this? > > Thanks as always! > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net thanks for all the suggestions, it worked!? I ended up drilling the lower portion of the wire out, pouring in some acetone to soften up the wires further, but not sure if this really helped.? Next day I used a 25" long 1/4" drill bit and after about 15-20" of drilling, which takes time, the wire harness started to shift and I was able to pull it out from the top.? ?But there was no way to pull a new cable through.? ?A 5/16 long masonry drill ($2.99 OSH clearance bin) ground down to stator tube inner diameter, about 9/32", was used to drill out all the rust, quite a bit came out of there!? ?Then a night soak in Evaporust and the harness (cotton/braided) slid right through without any cutting of bullets. Kurt was right about the rust, the wire harness cover wicks up moisture and the tube rust from the inside out, reducing the inner diameter of the tube. The Moto Lita boss need some machining to make room for the canceling arm but there was also a 3/32" or about 2.5mm protrusion of the splined section inside that needed to be milled off. Getting closer... Bert Harold's advice is excellent and if followed should achieve a great result. A couple of other points. 1. Frequently there is little wrong with an original radiator if the shop can "rod out" the core which involves removing one tank. 2. I would not recommend having the shop paint the finished product. They seem to use a very thick type of paint which never lools correct. After getting the rad back with no paint carefully degrease it then spray with satin blach from a rattle can, the result will be far superior. MFrom: Healeys on behalf of Harold Manifold Sent: Monday, March 12, 2018 12:00:58 PM To: 'Elton Schulz'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core?Dave, I had a healey radiator recored about a year ago. I took it to a shop that recores highway trucks and industrial radiators as automotive shops don't seem to do this type of work anymore. Once you find a shop that can do the work discuss the make up of the core they can provide. The number of cooling fins per inch is about 12 but check your core and there should be at least 4 rows of tubes. If you can increase the number rows of tubes to 5 it mat provide additional cooling. The top tank, bottom tank and side should be reused. The finished product should be painted and pressured tested before it is returned to you. Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Elton Schulz Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 10:26 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core If you are able to reuse the original side rails and top and bottom tanks, it should fit. Elton On 3/10/2018 8:15 AM, David Masucci wrote: > Hi All, > > Thanks to all who responded to my break in oil question. It's good to get a concensus of opinions like that. I have a plan. > > Now I need to have my radiator rebuilt with a modern higher efficiency core. I assume that I should be able to find a competent shop locally to do the work. I worry that it comes back dimensionally sized correctly so that it fits. Any advice from the group before I go forward with this? > > Thanks as always! > Dave > > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Mar 13 17:02:49 2018 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 23:02:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 89 References: <94199519.834118.1520972205862@mail.yahoo.com> Go here and you will find it under "Miscellaneous' about half-way down: http://www.healey6.com/technical.htm Another tip of the hat to John Sims! Rick Neville On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 5:56 PM Craig Cooper wrote: > Forgive me if I am posting incorrectly here, but I am searching for a list > of fasteners posted some time ago entitled > > "Bolts, nuts & washers and more for BN2 cataloged.." > > Anyone know where I might find it? > > Thanks, > > Craig > > > > > > > > > On Monday, March 12, 2018 11:45 AM, "healeys-request at autox.team.net" < > healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Radiator re-core (Harold Manifold) > 2. Stator tube wiring loom succes! (Bert Van Brande) > 3. Re: Radiator re-core (Michael Salter) > Dave, > > I had a healey radiator recored about a year ago. I took it to a shop that > recores highway trucks and industrial radiators as automotive shops don't > seem to do this type of work anymore. Once you find a shop that can do the > work discuss the make up of the core they can provide. The number of > cooling > fins per inch is about 12 but check your core and there should be at least > 4 > rows of tubes. If you can increase the number rows of tubes to 5 it mat > provide additional cooling. The top tank, bottom tank and side should be > reused. > > The finished product should be painted and pressured tested before it is > returned to you. > > Harold > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Elton > Schulz > Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 10:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core > > If you are able to reuse the original side rails and top and bottom tanks, > it should fit. > Elton > On 3/10/2018 8:15 AM, David Masucci wrote: > > Hi All, > > > > Thanks to all who responded to my break in oil question. It's good to get > a concensus of opinions like that. I have a plan. > > > > Now I need to have my radiator rebuilt with a modern higher efficiency > core. I assume that I should be able to find a competent shop locally to do > the work. I worry that it comes back dimensionally sized correctly so that > it fits. Any advice from the group before I go forward with this? > > > > Thanks as always! > > Dave > > > > 64 BJ8 > > 72 XJ6 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net > > > > > thanks for all the suggestions, it worked! > > I ended up drilling the lower portion of the wire out, pouring in some > acetone to soften up the wires further, but not sure if this really > helped. Next day I used a 25" long 1/4" drill bit and after about 15-20" > of drilling, which takes time, the wire harness started to shift and I was > able to pull it out from the top. But there was no way to pull a new > cable through. A 5/16 long masonry drill ($2.99 OSH clearance bin) ground > down to stator tube inner diameter, about 9/32", was used to drill out all > the rust, quite a bit came out of there! Then a night soak in Evaporust > and the harness (cotton/braided) slid right through without any cutting of > bullets. > > Kurt was right about the rust, the wire harness cover wicks up moisture > and the tube rust from the inside out, reducing the inner diameter of the > tube. > > The Moto Lita boss need some machining to make room for the canceling arm > but there was also a 3/32" or about 2.5mm protrusion of the splined section > inside that needed to be milled off. > > Getting closer... > > Bert > > [image: Inline image] > > > > > > > > > > Harold's advice is excellent and if followed should achieve a great result. > A couple of other points. > 1. Frequently there is little wrong with an original radiator if the shop > can "rod out" the core which involves removing one tank. > 2. I would not recommend having the shop paint the finished product. They > seem to use a very thick type of paint which never lools correct. After > getting the rad back with no paint carefully degrease it then spray with > satin blach from a rattle can, the result will be far superior. > > M > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Harold > Manifold > *Sent:* Monday, March 12, 2018 12:00:58 PM > *To:* 'Elton Schulz'; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core > > Dave, > > I had a healey radiator recored about a year ago. I took it to a shop that > recores highway trucks and industrial radiators as automotive shops don't > seem to do this type of work anymore. Once you find a shop that can do the > work discuss the make up of the core they can provide. The number of > cooling > fins per inch is about 12 but check your core and there should be at least > 4 > rows of tubes. If you can increase the number rows of tubes to 5 it mat > provide additional cooling. The top tank, bottom tank and side should be > reused. > > The finished product should be painted and pressured tested before it is > returned to you. > > Harold > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of Elton > Schulz > Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 10:26 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core > > If you are able to reuse the original side rails and top and bottom tanks, > it should fit. > Elton > On 3/10/2018 8:15 AM, David Masucci wrote: > > Hi All, > > > > Thanks to all who responded to my break in oil question. It's good to get > a concensus of opinions like that. I have a plan. > > > > Now I need to have my radiator rebuilt with a modern higher efficiency > core. I assume that I should be able to find a competent shop locally to do > the work. I worry that it comes back dimensionally sized correctly so that > it fits. Any advice from the group before I go forward with this? > > > > Thanks as always! > > Dave > > > > 64 BJ8 > > 72 XJ6 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Tue Mar 13 18:48:10 2018 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 13:48:10 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 fasteners I have attached a BN2 fasteners list that was going around a few years ago and also one I made when restoring my Longbridge BN4 which will be about 80% the same. This is the 1957 parts manual scanned, ocr'd and stripped of all parts that aren't a standard-code fastener. There are several inconsistencies between the manual and what actually fits (bolts specified too short or too long etc) Andy. > On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 5:56 PM Craig Cooper wrote: > > Forgive me if I am posting incorrectly here, but I am searching for a list > of fasteners posted some time ago entitled > > "Bolts, nuts & washers and more for BN2 cataloged.." > > Anyone know where I might find it? > >> Thanks, >> >> Craig >> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BN4 LONGBRIDGE FASTENER CODES1.xls Type: application/vnd.ms-excel Size: 234496 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Copy of Fasteners.xls Type: application/vnd.ms-excel Size: 143360 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Mar 14 07:50:20 2018 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 09:50:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Nock restoration photos for sale I have two sets of Norman Nock's (British Car Service) Restoration photo series that a friend (now retired who used them in conjunction with a couple of Healey restorations) asked me help him sell. They are: 100M--53 photos and BN4--75 photos. BCS sells these for $35.00 and $45.00 respectively--my friend would like to get $25.00/$35.00 or $50.00 for all (plus postage). Please contact me offlist if interested at: michael.oritt at gmail.com Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drmasucci at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 16:36:03 2018 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 18:36:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay References: Hi All, I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about them. Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the shot if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. Mounted to the head by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something protruding up from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? Thanks, Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Screen Shot 2018-03-14 at 6.28.23 PM.png Type: image/png Size: 5924540 bytes Desc: not available URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Mar 14 18:31:04 2018 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 18:31:04 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay References: <59198C52-1C76-41C3-812A-4A7562DF52C3@comcast.net> It is an otter switch for shutting off an auxiliary carb (choke) On 3/14/2018 4:36 PM, David Masucci wrote: > > Hi All, > > I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about > them. Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this > has me stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While > viewing the shot if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. > Mounted to the head by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with > something protruding up from the middle. It is right next to the > thermostat housing. What is that? > > Thanks, > Dave > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2902 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Screen Shot 2018-03-14 at 6.28.23 PM.png Type: image/png Size: 5924540 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Mar 14 18:54:57 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 00:54:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay References: <59198C52-1C76-41C3-812A-4A7562DF52C3@comcast.net> Can't see your image but it could be the temp sending unit Ira Erbs Portland, OR On Wed, Mar 14, 2018, 5:52 PM David Masucci wrote: > > Hi All, > > I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about them. > Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me > stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the shot > if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. Mounted to the head > by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something protruding up > from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? > > Thanks, > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Screen Shot 2018-03-14 at 6.28.23 PM.png Type: image/png Size: 5924540 bytes Desc: not available URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Wed Mar 14 19:07:56 2018 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Lawrence Swift) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 21:07:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay References: <59198C52-1C76-41C3-812A-4A7562DF52C3@comcast.net> It is the sensor for the automatic choke - a third carb > On Mar 14, 2018, at 6:36 PM, David Masucci wrote: > > > Hi All, > > I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about them. Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the shot if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. Mounted to the head by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something protruding up from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? > > Thanks, > Dave > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > From llennep at verizon.net Wed Mar 14 19:49:55 2018 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 21:49:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay That is a disconnected thermostat for the thermochoke model. It was wired to an auxillary carb. The thermostats were quite unreliable I have been told as this shorts out over time. I hot wired mine to a switch and made it a manually-controlled-electrically-activated choke. Worked quite well. Keith -----Original Message----- From: David Masucci To: Ahealey help Sent: Wed, Mar 14, 2018 8:11 pm Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay Hi All, I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about them. Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the shot if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. Mounted to the head by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something protruding up from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? Thanks, Dave _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Screen Shot 2018-03-14 at 6.28.23 PM.png Type: image/png Size: 5924540 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rick at ewilkins.com Wed Mar 14 20:00:51 2018 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 19:00:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay References: <59198C52-1C76-41C3-812A-4A7562DF52C3@comcast.net> Hey there, I?m pretty sure that?s the sender for the thermo-choke carb setup. > On Mar 14, 2018, at 3:36 PM, David Masucci wrote: > > > Hi All, > > I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about them. Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the shot if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. Mounted to the head by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something protruding up from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? > > Thanks, > Dave > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > From john at jtkarowe.com.au Wed Mar 14 20:22:19 2018 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 12:22:19 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay References: <59198C52-1C76-41C3-812A-4A7562DF52C3@comcast.net> Hi David That is the thermostat(?) for the electric chokes fitted to early models Mk1 BN7 & BT7s. I removed mine and replaced it all with a blanking piece John Rowe Qld Australia BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Masucci Sent: Thursday, 15 March 2018 8:36 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay Hi All, I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about them. Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the shot if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. Mounted to the head by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something protruding up from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? Thanks, Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 936410 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Wed Mar 14 20:32:27 2018 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 15:32:27 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay References: <59198C52-1C76-41C3-812A-4A7562DF52C3@comcast.net> Hi Dave, It is the OTTER thermostat for the thermo-carb fitted some early 3000s Here are two pics showing the full manifold set-up showing the three injection tubes. You can see the thermo-choke device between the two air filters. I had a thermo-carb on my 1961 Mk II Jag. It was a pain in the butt! I eventually disconnected the unit and choked manually. The BN7 owner obviously did too. ;-) Cheers Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: David Masucci [mailto:drmasucci at comcast.net] Sent: Thursday, 15 March 2018 11:36 a.m. To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay Hi All, I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don't know everything about them. Maybe I just don't know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me stumped. there's a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the shot if the engine, I see something that I can't identify. Mounted to the head by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something protruding up from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? Thanks, Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 56787 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 18329 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.gif Type: image/gif Size: 192881 bytes Desc: not available URL: From editorgary at aol.com Wed Mar 14 22:52:29 2018 From: editorgary at aol.com (Gary Anderson) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 21:52:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 93 References: That s the sending unit for the thermostat operated choke. They quit that after the first 500 units, Gary Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 14, 2018, at 5:55 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: BN7 on Ebay (i erbs) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 00:54:57 +0000 > From: i erbs > To: David Masucci > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Can't see your image but it could be the temp sending unit > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > >> On Wed, Mar 14, 2018, 5:52 PM David Masucci wrote: >> >> >> Hi All, >> >> I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about them. >> Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me >> stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the shot >> if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. Mounted to the head >> by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something protruding up >> from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? >> >> Thanks, >> Dave >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Screen Shot 2018-03-14 at 6.28.23 PM.png > Type: image/png > Size: 5924540 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 93 > *************************************** From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Mar 14 23:55:09 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 13:55:09 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay References: <59198C52-1C76-41C3-812A-4A7562DF52C3@comcast.net> <162275967fe-19a6-156c8@webjas-vae011.srv.aolmail.net> Otter switch for the auto choke. The single most unreliable piece of kit to ever come out of Lucas! On Thu, Mar 15, 2018 at 9:49 AM, Keith Pennell wrote: > That is a disconnected thermostat for the thermochoke model. It was wired > to an auxillary carb. The thermostats were quite unreliable I have been > told as this shorts out over time. I hot wired mine to a switch and made > it a manually-controlled-electrically-activated choke. Worked quite well. > > Keith > > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Masucci > To: Ahealey help > Sent: Wed, Mar 14, 2018 8:11 pm > Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay > > > Hi All, > > I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about them. > Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me > stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the shot > if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. Mounted to the head > by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something protruding up > from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? > > Thanks, > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep@ > verizon.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Screen Shot 2018-03-14 at 6.28.23 PM.png Type: image/png Size: 5924540 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Mar 15 02:02:17 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 16:02:17 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay References: <59198C52-1C76-41C3-812A-4A7562DF52C3@comcast.net> <2608F955EB614202B0F1F50098CF0AF3@MarkPC> The thermo choke works great with a toggle switch, but horrible waste of fuel (typically) with the otter switch. On Thu, Mar 15, 2018 at 10:32 AM, Mark Donaldson wrote: > Hi Dave, > > > > It is the *OTTER thermostat* for the thermo-carb fitted some early 3000s > > Here are two pics showing the full manifold set-up showing the three > injection tubes. > > You can see the thermo-choke device between the two air filters. > > > > I had a thermo-carb on my 1961 Mk II Jag. It was a pain in the butt! I > eventually disconnected the unit and choked manually. > > The BN7 owner obviously did too. ;-) > > Cheers > > Mark > > Ardmore, NZ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drmasucci at comcast.net Thu Mar 15 04:22:51 2018 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 06:22:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay References: <59198C52-1C76-41C3-812A-4A7562DF52C3@comcast.net> <2608F955EB614202B0F1F50098CF0AF3@MarkPC> Thanks all for the information on the OTTER thermostat. I learned something new about Healeys! Dave > On Mar 15, 2018, at 4:02 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > > The thermo choke works great with a toggle switch, but horrible waste of fuel (typically) with the otter switch. > > Hi Dave, > > > > It is the OTTER thermostat for the thermo-carb fitted some early 3000s > > Here are two pics showing the full manifold set-up showing the three injection tubes. > > You can see the thermo-choke device between the two air filters. > > > > I had a thermo-carb on my 1961 Mk II Jag. It was a pain in the butt! I eventually disconnected the unit and choked manually. > > The BN7 owner obviously did too. ;-) > > Cheers > > Mark > > Ardmore, NZ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkeysor at bellsouth.net Thu Mar 15 09:30:18 2018 From: rkeysor at bellsouth.net (rkeysor) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 15:30:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay References: <59198C52-1C76-41C3-812A-4A7562DF52C3@comcast.net> <4054655C-FCA5-4A1E-9851-5BF6625C61EF@ewilkins.com> The function of that port is news to me. ?I have a ?'60 BN7 in the range that had the starting carb. The ports in the?intake manifold were present when I purchased the car, but each had a short piece of rubber hose blocked by a small bolt. They had no function, and the car was fitted with two HD6 carbs and was absent the starting carb. ?My since sold Jag MK 2 had a starting carb, and it gave me no problems. ?I have since removed the intake manifold bits on the Healey those and pretty?nicely covered the ports. But now I know that my car likely has a replacement head. ?It does not have the triangular port discussed here. On Thursday, March 15, 2018 1:55 AM, Rick Wilkins wrote: Hey there, I?m pretty sure that?s the sender for the thermo-choke carb setup. > On Mar 14, 2018, at 3:36 PM, David Masucci wrote: > > > Hi All, > > I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about them. Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the shot if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. Mounted to the head by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something protruding up from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? > > Thanks, > Dave > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Mar 15 10:50:58 2018 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 12:50:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 93 References: As Gary said that is the sending unit for the enrichment device - technically it is not a choke as it injects fuel directly in to the intake manifold to richen the mixture, as opposed to choking the air intake on the carbs (or lowering the jets, which really isn't a choke either). I think it was closer to 1500 units that had that thermo-electomagnetic wizardry, my '59 3000 being one of them. It was also fitted to Jaguar saloons of the same vintage. They work well excepting that once set up they only provide one mixture - they are either on or off, rather than being able to adjust the choke as the car warms up. The sender unit is prone to failure but Burlen offer a replacement. However I think most cars with this device simply disconnected the sender unit and installed an extra switch on the dash to control it. This had been done on mine and it is more practical. Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Anderson Sent: March-15-18 12:52 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 93 That s the sending unit for the thermostat operated choke. They quit that after the first 500 units, Gary Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 14, 2018, at 5:55 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: BN7 on Ebay (i erbs) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 00:54:57 +0000 > From: i erbs > To: David Masucci > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Can't see your image but it could be the temp sending unit > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > >> On Wed, Mar 14, 2018, 5:52 PM David Masucci wrote: >> >> >> Hi All, >> >> I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about them. >> Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me >> stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the >> shot if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. Mounted to >> the head by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something >> protruding up from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? >> >> Thanks, >> Dave >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was > scrubbed... > URL: > /attachment.html> > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was > scrubbed... > Name: Screen Shot 2018-03-14 at 6.28.23 PM.png > Type: image/png > Size: 5924540 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > /attachment.png> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 93 > *************************************** _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From rick72b at comcast.net Thu Mar 15 17:59:47 2018 From: rick72b at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 19:59:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys BN7 on ebay References: That is a temperature sensor for the automatic choke device that was installed on the early production of the 3000. The automatic choke device was attached to the rear carburetor (as I recall) and was similar to the unit used by XK Jaguars of the period. It proved somewhat unreliable and the cars returned to manual chokes after about 6 months. Rick Brodeur On 3/14/2018 6:36 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. BN7 on Ebay (David Masucci) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 18:36:03 -0400 > From: David Masucci > To: Ahealey help > Subject: [Healeys] BN7 on Ebay > Message-ID: <59198C52-1C76-41C3-812A-4A7562DF52C3 at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > Hi All, > > I know Healeys pretty well, but surely don?t know everything about them. Maybe I just don?t know the earlier 6 cylinder cars, but this has me stumped. there?s a listing for a 1960 BN7 on Ebay. While viewing the shot if the engine, I see something that I can?t identify. Mounted to the head by 3 screws is a triangle shaped component with something protruding up from the middle. It is right next to the thermostat housing. What is that? > > Thanks, > Dave > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: Screen Shot 2018-03-14 at 6.28.23 PM.png > Type: image/png > Size: 5924540 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 91 > *************************************** From gablegerry at netscape.net Fri Mar 16 11:37:22 2018 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 13:37:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Dash Light Question I recently tackled rewiring my dash with the help of sever of this listers. Thank you so very much. Two questions remain. 1. The green light at the top of the dash has a plastic tub to connect into. The wire harness has a multi-grip connector like the lights in the speedo and tack instruments and therefore no gripping ability to the green tube and no ground. What am I missing? 2. The wire harness also does not have the wire or bulb holder to connect to the two smaller instruments for illumination. What do I need and how do I wire these in? On another note. Can someone recommend where I can get the two cup like objects that hold the top in place while stored in the car on a BN-6. I had them and can not find them-a real mystery. Lastly, How are the seat slides replaced in the car. The wood base holes don.t line up with anything and don't tighten up without washers. Thanks Hap BN-6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wwycoffbn7 at aol.com Fri Mar 16 16:25:18 2018 From: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com (wwycoffbn7 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 18:25:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys BN7 on ebay Hi, ? Our car came to us in the mid 70's with a fully functional auxiliary carb and the OTTER switch. ?Visually, it is a pretty neat looking arrangement. The engine started fine, warmed up and the switch would shut down the auxiliary carb. ? However, the cam and tune of our engines tended to cause the engine to occasionally cough before fully warming up. ?When that would occur, a fine mist of gas sprays out of the auxiliary carb all over the engine bay. ?A respected Healey expert said to me that quite a number of these Thermo-carb equipped cars burned down due to this feature and encouraged me to change the manifold and carbs to the manual choke ?arrangement. ? ? We did that conversion as part of a rebuild in 2001 and have been going fine ever since. ? Best Regards, ? Bill -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sat Mar 17 09:41:39 2018 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 11:41:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys BN7 on ebay References: <16230eacad8-179f-5a84@webjas-vab124.srv.aolmail.net> I have experienced that same cough and spray of fuel. I have learned that if I have engaged the starting device to 1) let it warm up a bit before driving, and 2) be light on the throttle until warmed. If I do those two things I rarely get it spitting back. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wwycoffbn7 at aol.com Sent: March-16-18 6:25 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys BN7 on ebay Hi, Our car came to us in the mid 70's with a fully functional auxiliary carb and the OTTER switch. Visually, it is a pretty neat looking arrangement. The engine started fine, warmed up and the switch would shut down the auxiliary carb. However, the cam and tune of our engines tended to cause the engine to occasionally cough before fully warming up. When that would occur, a fine mist of gas sprays out of the auxiliary carb all over the engine bay. A respected Healey expert said to me that quite a number of these Thermo-carb equipped cars burned down due to this feature and encouraged me to change the manifold and carbs to the manual choke arrangement. We did that conversion as part of a rebuild in 2001 and have been going fine ever since. Best Regards, Bill -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Sat Mar 17 12:19:18 2018 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 14:19:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey seat slide question Hap: Do you have the ?special? nuts for bolting down the seats? I can?t help you with the not lining up part, but if they don?t tighten up without washers, it sounds like you are missing some of the stack that makes up the seat mounting assembly. There is usually a metal plate, the wood spacer [?packing piece?] and the slide mechanism. A nut with a long shoulder comes up through the floor of the car, through the metal and wood, and secures the slider. Moss calls it a ?T-Nut?. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gablegerry at netscape.net Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 1:37 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Dash Light Question I recently tackled rewiring my dash with the help of sever of this listers. Thank you so very much. Two questions remain. 1. The green light at the top of the dash has a plastic tub to connect into. The wire harness has a multi-grip connector like the lights in the speedo and tack instruments and therefore no gripping ability to the green tube and no ground. What am I missing? 2. The wire harness also does not have the wire or bulb holder to connect to the two smaller instruments for illumination. What do I need and how do I wire these in? On another note. Can someone recommend where I can get the two cup like objects that hold the top in place while stored in the car on a BN-6. I had them and can not find them-a real mystery. Lastly, How are the seat slides replaced in the car. The wood base holes don.t line up with anything and don't tighten up without washers. Thanks Hap BN-6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Sat Mar 17 13:14:19 2018 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 15:14:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary carb References: I worked with another couple who restored their car and retained the original auxiliary carb, but we found one problem with it on the car's maiden voyage. The second morning on the trip, they started up the car with no problem and then drove it a few blocks to the gas station to fill it up. After the fill up they couldn't get it to start. It finally started up all right after about 30 minutes. Turned out the problem was that it hadn't had the chance to warm up enough to shut off the switch, but it still had fuel in the system, so it was flooding itself. After that, he switched over to an on-off switch he hid under the dash, which he used as if it were a choke, turning it on to get the car started and then switching it off. G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -----Original Message----- Hi, ? Our car came to us in the mid 70's with a fully functional auxiliary carb and the OTTER switch. ?Visually, it is a pretty neat looking arrangement. The engine started fine, warmed up and the switch would shut down the auxiliary carb. ? However, the cam and tune of our engines tended to cause the engine to occasionally cough before fully warming up. ?When that would occur, a fine mist of gas sprays out of the auxiliary carb all over the engine bay. ?A respected Healey expert said to me that quite a number of these Thermo-carb equipped cars burned down due to this feature and encouraged me to change the manifold and carbs to the manual choke ?arrangement. ? ? We did that conversion as part of a rebuild in 2001 and have been going fine ever since. ? Best Regards, ? Bill -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sat Mar 17 13:18:35 2018 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 15:18:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] valve covers Anyone interested in a pair of good 6cyd used valve covers?? One with the nuts and breather tee, one without.? Shipping costs only. John Hightown, VA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: valve covers top.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 564792 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: valve covers bottom.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 560708 bytes Desc: not available URL: From al at bighealey.org Sat Mar 17 16:38:42 2018 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 18:38:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Radio Blanking Set Do any of you have the radio blanking set in your console? If so, can you provide measurements of the blanking plate? The Moss Motors # = 633-788. A picture of what I am talking about is attached. Thanks, Al Fuller '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Blanking Set 633-788_1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 290114 bytes Desc: not available URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sun Mar 18 08:40:20 2018 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 10:40:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] re valve covers Gone already, Bob Spidell spoke first. John BTW,? I have other stuff I want to get rid of, need to wind down this hobby.? Both cars are fully restored, and should not need much. From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Mar 18 10:16:35 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 09:16:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] re valve covers References: <26c80661-8812-f4a7-1a31-9fd364d0c478@htcnet.org> "Both cars are fully restored, and should not need much." Uh oh. On 3/18/2018 7:40 AM, John Vrugtman wrote: > Gone already, Bob Spidell spoke first. > > John > > BTW,? I have other stuff I want to get rid of, need to wind down this > hobby.? Both cars are fully restored, and should not need much. > > > _______________________________________________ > > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Mar 18 10:38:26 2018 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 12:38:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] HBT7L-12203 Listers, I've been contacted by a previous owner of this 3000 MkI who would like to know if the car is still around. Anyone know about HBT7L-12203? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Sun Mar 18 13:15:05 2018 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 19:15:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] HBT7L-12203 References: HBT7L12234 Close but no cigar. Just like LOTTO! -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2018 12:38 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] HBT7L-12203 Listers, I've been contacted by a previous owner of this 3000 MkI who would like to know if the car is still around. Anyone know about HBT7L-12203? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From pdzwig at summaventures.com Mon Mar 19 09:10:27 2018 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 15:10:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100/5 works side vents Can anyone confirm my belief that no works 100/6 was fitted with a triangular side vent (front shroud) with two parallel chrome strakes on it? I am aware of some mods being done to remove additional heat at the very end of the 100/6 competition history, but not the above. Peter PS IF this comes with a message saying that I am an unverified sender please ignore, it's still me; it started happening about four or five months ago and I can't get rid of it. -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From al at bighealey.org Mon Mar 19 09:41:17 2018 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 11:41:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet fit - on top of trans tunnel - BJ-8 OK, it's time to [finally] get the new-ish carpet to fit as it drapes down the trans tunnel. As it stands, the carpet is too big for the tunnel and bunches up on top, as well as on the sides. This is likely made worse by the fact that the trans tunnel has been lowered and narrowed a bit. I think I have seen cars where the carpet was cut along the top of the trans tunnel, and the cut hidden by the console. If anyone has pictures and description, it would be appreciated. Also, any other tips would go a long way. Thanks, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Mon Mar 19 12:20:31 2018 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 19:20:31 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] 100/5 works side vents References: <59e0b5c7-cfd9-9682-07cb-229f001ee947@summaventures.com> Peter, I know the original works 100/6, TON 792, was entered in 1961 for the Le Mans 24 hours by Cambridge Racing (2912cc engine installed). At that time its got side vents without the chrome strakes. It was the third reserve, but failed to make the grid. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] 100/5 works side vents Datum: 2018-03-19T18:40:29+0100 Von: "Peter Dzwig" An: "Healey" Can anyone confirm my belief that no works 100/6 was fitted with a triangular side vent (front shroud) with two parallel chrome strakes on it? I am aware of some mods being done to remove additional heat at the very end of the 100/6 competition history, but not the above. Peter PS IF this comes with a message saying that I am an unverified sender please ignore, it's still me; it started happening about four or five months ago and I can't get rid of it. -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig ? From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Mar 19 14:16:24 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 16:16:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet fit - on top of trans tunnel - BJ-8 References: <005601d3bf98$b97f2c90$2c7d85b0$@bighealey.org> The new carpet for my BJ8 was in flat pieces without any pre-molding for curves. When I installed the carpet on my BJ8 tunnel, I found that it bunched up in some places but fit much better smoother I covered the top side of the fiberglass tunnel with 1/4" mylar-faced bubble wrap insulation like I put on the underside. The first thing I did to locate the carpet was to cut a small hole just big enough for the gearshift to pass through. This allowed an initial positioning of the carpet on the tunnel with enough margin for trimming the hole so that the carpet covered the bellhousing hump. Once this was done, I cut a slit fore-and-aft from the front and rear edges of the hole to allow the carpet to sit down on the gearshift hump. This is trial and error to get the length of the slits long enough but not too long. Since the slits were to be covered by the console, I left them as they were but as I recall I did trim the areas of carpet around the gearshift. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Monday, March 19, 2018 11:41 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Carpet fit - on top of trans tunnel - BJ-8 OK, it's time to [finally] get the new-ish carpet to fit as it drapes down the trans tunnel. As it stands, the carpet is too big for the tunnel and bunches up on top, as well as on the sides. This is likely made worse by the fact that the trans tunnel has been lowered and narrowed a bit. I think I have seen cars where the carpet was cut along the top of the trans tunnel, and the cut hidden by the console. If anyone has pictures and description, it would be appreciated. Also, any other tips would go a long way. Thanks, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Mar 19 17:13:02 2018 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 19:13:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 timing References: <161f1b364df-1796-3a26@webjas-vab220.srv.aolmail.net> Roland asked his question about timing marks on early 100 engines a couple weeks ago which Dave Nock answered previously. If you don?t have the infamous arrow try this. The arrow on the later 100?s is positioned along a straight line between the center point of the original four blade cast fan and the center of the crankshaft pulley. Wipe the crud off the timing chain cover just above crank pulley, pull a string between the two points and open the ancient bottle of ?whiteout? and mark your new timing reference mark. Perry Sent from my iPhone > From pdzwig at summaventures.com Tue Mar 20 03:50:56 2018 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 09:50:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100/5 works side vents References: <59e0b5c7-cfd9-9682-07cb-229f001ee947@summaventures.com> <1521483631573.3972324.df40b37b07b6fecbfd38df94d8186790776333d2@spica.telekom.de> Josef, thanks for that. I didn't know that. TON 792 wasn't actually a works car, but entered as a part of the team in the '58 Alpine and Li?ge to make up numbers. The car actually belonged to George Harriman who was Vice-chairman of BMC at the time. My understanding was that it was returned to him after the season and remained in private ownership. I didn't realise that one of the privateers entered it in Le Mans in the early 60s. As I read the entry list (available online) one of the intended drivers was one Jim Clark. It must have been one of the few times he didn't get a start in something he entered! The only 100/6 I know of that had side vents was VOK 490 when it ran with a special engine for the record attempts at Montlh?ry in 57. Cambridge University Car Club entered it with semi-official backing, but wasn't really a works car in the sense that I meant. I don't think the triangular vent with double strakes was seen on a works car until 1960. I do however know that there had been issues with heat dissipation in 100/6s converted to 3000 spec, eg PMO 203. Thanks for your help, Regards, Peter On 19/03/2018 18:20, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > Peter, > I know the original works 100/6, TON 792, was entered in 1961 for the Le Mans 24 hours by Cambridge Racing (2912cc engine installed). At that time its got side vents without the chrome strakes. It was the third reserve, but failed to make the grid. > > Josef Eckert > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: [Healeys] 100/5 works side vents > Datum: 2018-03-19T18:40:29+0100 > Von: "Peter Dzwig" > An: "Healey" > > Can anyone confirm my belief that no works 100/6 was fitted with a triangular > side vent (front shroud) with two parallel chrome strakes on it? > > I am aware of some mods being done to remove additional heat at the very end of > the 100/6 competition history, but not the above. > > Peter > > PS IF this comes with a message saying that I am an unverified sender please > ignore, it's still me; it started happening about four or five months ago and I > can't get rid of it. > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From josef-eckert at t-online.de Tue Mar 20 05:04:23 2018 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 12:04:23 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] 100/5 works side vents References: <59e0b5c7-cfd9-9682-07cb-229f001ee947@summaventures.com> <1521483631573.3972324.df40b37b07b6fecbfd38df94d8186790776333d2@spica.telekom.de> Peter, There is an excellent book written by Herve Chevalier about the 100/6, see http://www.austinhealeylegend.com/les-livres.html I can warmely recommend this and any other Healey books he published. His newest book is about the racing story of the 100Ss. Books are written in English and French language. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: 100/5 works side vents Datum: 2018-03-20T10:51:15+0100 Von: "Peter Dzwig" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "Healey Forum" Josef, thanks for that. I didn't know that. TON 792 wasn't actually a works car, but entered as a part of the team in the '58 Alpine and Li?ge to make up numbers. The car actually belonged to George Harriman who was Vice-chairman of BMC at the time. My understanding was that it was returned to him after the season and remained in private ownership. I didn't realise that one of the privateers entered it in Le Mans in the early 60s. As I read the entry list (available online) one of the intended drivers was one Jim Clark. It must have been one of the few times he didn't get a start in something he entered! The only 100/6 I know of that had side vents was VOK 490 when it ran with a special engine for the record attempts at Montlh?ry in 57. Cambridge University Car Club entered it with semi-official backing, but wasn't really a works car in the sense that I meant. I don't think the triangular vent with double strakes was seen on a works car until 1960. I do however know that there had been issues with heat dissipation in 100/6s converted to 3000 spec, eg PMO 203. Thanks for your help, Regards, Peter On 19/03/2018 18:20, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > Peter, > I know the original works 100/6, TON 792, was entered in 1961 for the Le Mans 24 hours by Cambridge Racing (2912cc engine installed). At that time its got side vents without the chrome strakes. It was the third reserve, but failed to make the grid. > > Josef Eckert > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: [Healeys] 100/5 works side vents > Datum: 2018-03-19T18:40:29+0100 > Von: "Peter Dzwig" > An: "Healey" > > Can anyone confirm my belief that no works 100/6 was fitted with a triangular > side vent (front shroud) with two parallel chrome strakes on it? > > I am aware of some mods being done to remove additional heat at the very end of > the 100/6 competition history, but not the above. > > Peter > > PS IF this comes with a message saying that I am an unverified sender please > ignore, it's still me; it started happening about four or five months ago and I > can't get rid of it. > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig ? From al at bighealey.org Tue Mar 20 14:05:03 2018 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 16:05:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet fit - on top of trans tunnel - BJ-8 References: <005601d3bf98$b97f2c90$2c7d85b0$@bighealey.org> <005001d3bfbf$2b36b260$81a41720$@rr.com> Steve - thanks. In my case, the person who did the initial build-up installed the carpet. I don't know its origin, but as you can see from the pictures attached, it's already trimmed. I will need to work out how to slit the carpet to get it to drape neatly on the tunnel. And as I indicated, the tunnel is lower and narrower than stock - just making it all the more fun! :) Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Monday, March 19, 2018 4:16 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet fit - on top of trans tunnel - BJ-8 The new carpet for my BJ8 was in flat pieces without any pre-molding for curves. When I installed the carpet on my BJ8 tunnel, I found that it bunched up in some places but fit much better smoother I covered the top side of the fiberglass tunnel with 1/4" mylar-faced bubble wrap insulation like I put on the underside. The first thing I did to locate the carpet was to cut a small hole just big enough for the gearshift to pass through. This allowed an initial positioning of the carpet on the tunnel with enough margin for trimming the hole so that the carpet covered the bellhousing hump. Once this was done, I cut a slit fore-and-aft from the front and rear edges of the hole to allow the carpet to sit down on the gearshift hump. This is trial and error to get the length of the slits long enough but not too long. Since the slits were to be covered by the console, I left them as they were but as I recall I did trim the areas of carpet around the gearshift. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Monday, March 19, 2018 11:41 AM Subject: [Healeys] Carpet fit - on top of trans tunnel - BJ-8 OK, it's time to [finally] get the new-ish carpet to fit as it drapes down the trans tunnel. As it stands, the carpet is too big for the tunnel and bunches up on top, as well as on the sides. This is likely made worse by the fact that the trans tunnel has been lowered and narrowed a bit. I think I have seen cars where the carpet was cut along the top of the trans tunnel, and the cut hidden by the console. If anyone has pictures and description, it would be appreciated. Also, any other tips would go a long way. Thanks, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20180319_123047.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4470109 bytes Desc: not available URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Wed Mar 21 03:20:58 2018 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2018 09:20:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100/5 works side vents References: <59e0b5c7-cfd9-9682-07cb-229f001ee947@summaventures.com> <1521483631573.3972324.df40b37b07b6fecbfd38df94d8186790776333d2@spica.telekom.de> <1521543863868.4288069.a2893646a2ce7e2c74fd410522ab0d7b2c81a71d@spica.telekom.de> Josef, thanks for reminding me about Herv? Chevalier's books. I have a couple of them in the earlier editions. He writes very well. Peter On 20/03/2018 11:04, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > Peter, > There is an excellent book written by Herve Chevalier about the 100/6, see > http://www.austinhealeylegend.com/les-livres.html > I can warmely recommend this and any other Healey books he published. > His newest book is about the racing story of the 100Ss. > Books are written in English and French language. > > Josef Eckert > K?nigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: Re: 100/5 works side vents > Datum: 2018-03-20T10:51:15+0100 > Von: "Peter Dzwig" > An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "Healey Forum" > > Josef, > > thanks for that. I didn't know that. TON 792 wasn't actually a works car, but > entered as a part of the team in the '58 Alpine and Li?ge to make up numbers. > The car actually belonged to George Harriman who was Vice-chairman of BMC at the > time. My understanding was that it was returned to him after the season and > remained in private ownership. I didn't realise that one of the privateers > entered it in Le Mans in the early 60s. > > As I read the entry list (available online) one of the intended drivers was one > Jim Clark. It must have been one of the few times he didn't get a start in > something he entered! > > The only 100/6 I know of that had side vents was VOK 490 when it ran with a > special engine for the record attempts at Montlh?ry in 57. Cambridge University > Car Club entered it with semi-official backing, but wasn't really a works car in > the sense that I meant. > > I don't think the triangular vent with double strakes was seen on a works car > until 1960. I do however know that there had been issues with heat dissipation > in 100/6s converted to 3000 spec, eg PMO 203. > > Thanks for your help, > > Regards, > > Peter > > On 19/03/2018 18:20, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: >> Peter, >> I know the original works 100/6, TON 792, was entered in 1961 for the Le Mans 24 hours by Cambridge Racing (2912cc engine installed). At that time its got side vents without the chrome strakes. It was the third reserve, but failed to make the grid. >> >> Josef Eckert >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> >> >> >> -----Original-Nachricht----- >> Betreff: [Healeys] 100/5 works side vents >> Datum: 2018-03-19T18:40:29+0100 >> Von: "Peter Dzwig" >> An: "Healey" >> >> Can anyone confirm my belief that no works 100/6 was fitted with a triangular >> side vent (front shroud) with two parallel chrome strakes on it? >> >> I am aware of some mods being done to remove additional heat at the very end of >> the 100/6 competition history, but not the above. >> >> Peter >> >> PS IF this comes with a message saying that I am an unverified sender please >> ignore, it's still me; it started happening about four or five months ago and I >> can't get rid of it. >> > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Mar 21 08:02:19 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2018 10:02:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet fit - on top of trans tunnel - BJ-8 References: <005601d3bf98$b97f2c90$2c7d85b0$@bighealey.org> <005001d3bfbf$2b36b260$81a41720$@rr.com> <034c01d3c086$bd89ed40$389dc7c0$@bighealey.org> I believe I see a piece of bubble-wrap insulation peeking out from under the carpet, Al. I have two or three typical carpet snaps along the lower edge on each side of the tunnel near the floor. With these, the carpet can be stretched some and secured, which helps with smoothing out the carpet on the sides and top. Most of the wrinkles I see in your carpet are near the top. One large buckle can be seen in the photo, on the side of the tunnel. I would pull the rear lower edge of the carpet (driver's side) to the rear to remove as much of that wrinkle as possible, which will move the buckle toward the top of the tunnel. If that places the buckle under the console, you can make a cut along the highest point of the buckle and then pull one edge of the cut to the opposite side to reduce the buckle. The overlap would show you where to trim in order to have the cut edges butt together. To do this right takes a bit of an "eye" and some practice, but I think you could do it if you're careful. I don't recall if I glued the carpet to the tunnel at all but if I did it was only on the top, and possibly along the curve of the hump on the driver's side. I used the snaps to secure it along the sides and bottom. If gluing it, begin at the top and work your way gradually down the sides. This will make the carpet fit better where it's visible, but you'll get some wrinkles as you approach the floor. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2018 4:05 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet fit - on top of trans tunnel - BJ-8 Steve - thanks. In my case, the person who did the initial build-up installed the carpet. I don't know its origin, but as you can see from the pictures attached, it's already trimmed. I will need to work out how to slit the carpet to get it to drape neatly on the tunnel. And as I indicated, the tunnel is lower and narrower than stock - just making it all the more fun! J Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Thu Mar 22 14:03:56 2018 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 16:03:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet fit - on top of trans tunnel - BJ-8 References: <005601d3bf98$b97f2c90$2c7d85b0$@bighealey.org> <005001d3bfbf$2b36b260$81a41720$@rr.com> <034c01d3c086$bd89ed40$389dc7c0$@bighealey.org> <00e201d3c11d$3c62b2f0$b52818d0$@rr.com> Steve - thanks. What you see is Dynamat insulation, so yes, there is a slightly different profile there from the Dynamat. I worked on the carpet some, and I do see what you mean. It does pull ** mostly ** into position, so I will see if I can snap it down. It looks like I have a big set of 'Veltex'-type carpet snaps [now, if only I can locate the tunnel-side part of the snaps. :(]. Thanks. It now looks like I might not have to slit the carpet, or if so it should be minimal. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 10:02 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet fit - on top of trans tunnel - BJ-8 I believe I see a piece of bubble-wrap insulation peeking out from under the carpet, Al. I have two or three typical carpet snaps along the lower edge on each side of the tunnel near the floor. With these, the carpet can be stretched some and secured, which helps with smoothing out the carpet on the sides and top. Most of the wrinkles I see in your carpet are near the top. One large buckle can be seen in the photo, on the side of the tunnel. I would pull the rear lower edge of the carpet (driver's side) to the rear to remove as much of that wrinkle as possible, which will move the buckle toward the top of the tunnel. If that places the buckle under the console, you can make a cut along the highest point of the buckle and then pull one edge of the cut to the opposite side to reduce the buckle. The overlap would show you where to trim in order to have the cut edges butt together. To do this right takes a bit of an "eye" and some practice, but I think you could do it if you're careful. I don't recall if I glued the carpet to the tunnel at all but if I did it was only on the top, and possibly along the curve of the hump on the driver's side. I used the snaps to secure it along the sides and bottom. If gluing it, begin at the top and work your way gradually down the sides. This will make the carpet fit better where it's visible, but you'll get some wrinkles as you approach the floor. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2018 4:05 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet fit - on top of trans tunnel - BJ-8 Steve - thanks. In my case, the person who did the initial build-up installed the carpet. I don't know its origin, but as you can see from the pictures attached, it's already trimmed. I will need to work out how to slit the carpet to get it to drape neatly on the tunnel. And as I indicated, the tunnel is lower and narrower than stock - just making it all the more fun! :) Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Mar 24 00:13:05 2018 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2018 17:13:05 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 in Call the Midwife Hello Last night we settled down to watch four episodes of the British TV show Call the Midwife. In one of the episodes (Series 6 Episode 5 & 6) one of the main female midwife characters meets with a new male dentist character who happens to drive a blue over white BJ7. The episodes deals with all sorts of issues that I won't go into here except to say that in the background everyone is worried about what we now know as the Cuban Missile Crisis. So that dates the episode to October 1962 and therefore also the 3000. I have been trying to find a scene still of the car for an article without success. Hoping that perhaps someone with greater technical skills than myself has managed to copy a scene with the car. Thank you Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Mar 24 04:20:51 2018 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2018 10:20:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 in Call the Midwife References: <00c101d3c337$2d80a6e0$8881f4a0$@tpg.com.au> Here you go Patrick. Thanks for the tip. I try to keep a list of Healeys and films and have a number of clips on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/healeyrick/videos?view_as=subscriber Cheers, Rick Neville On Sat, Mar 24, 2018 at 2:51 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > Hello > > > > Last night we settled down to watch four episodes of the British TV show > Call the Midwife. > > > > In one of the episodes (Series 6 Episode 5 & 6) one of the main female > midwife characters meets with a new male dentist character who happens to > drive a blue over white BJ7. The episodes deals with all sorts of issues > that I won?t go into here except to say that in the background everyone is > worried about what we now know as the Cuban Missile Crisis. > > > > So that dates the episode to October 1962 and therefore also the 3000. > > > > I have been trying to find a scene still of the car for an article without > success. > > > > Hoping that perhaps someone with greater technical skills than myself has > managed to copy a scene with the car. > > > > Thank you > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2018-03-24.png Type: image/png Size: 1714495 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Mar 24 04:33:59 2018 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2018 21:33:59 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 in Call the Midwife References: <00c101d3c337$2d80a6e0$8881f4a0$@tpg.com.au> Wonderful Rick Thank you very much. Interesting as I thought it was a BJ7 while it?s clear from the photo that?s it?s a BJ8. Clearly whoever organised the props for the show made a mistake as everyone was ringing their hands about the Cuban Missile Crisis which occurred in October 1962 and the BJ8 wasn?t released until October 1963. Best wishes Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, 24 March 2018 9:21 PM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 in Call the Midwife Here you go Patrick. Thanks for the tip. I try to keep a list of Healeys and films and have a number of clips on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/healeyrick/videos?view_as=subscriber Cheers, Rick Neville On Sat, Mar 24, 2018 at 2:51 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Hello Last night we settled down to watch four episodes of the British TV show Call the Midwife. In one of the episodes (Series 6 Episode 5 & 6) one of the main female midwife characters meets with a new male dentist character who happens to drive a blue over white BJ7. The episodes deals with all sorts of issues that I won?t go into here except to say that in the background everyone is worried about what we now know as the Cuban Missile Crisis. So that dates the episode to October 1962 and therefore also the 3000. I have been trying to find a scene still of the car for an article without success. Hoping that perhaps someone with greater technical skills than myself has managed to copy a scene with the car. Thank you Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sun Mar 25 09:14:30 2018 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2018 11:14:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] cam failure A friend recently had a reground cam fail after a few years of normal use. The engine had been professionally rebuilt. There are several possible explanations, however one unusual thing he discovered is that the wear on the lobes & tappets is only apparent on cylinders 4,5 & 6. The worst visible wear is on the exhaust valve lobe/tappet of Cyl 6. & the least wear is on the exhaust valve lobe/tappet of Cyl 4. Cyls 1,2 & 3 appear to be in very good condition. Does this suggest any specific cause for the failure? He will be having the cam & tappets replaced & will be using a Piper Camshaft, for an Austin Healey 3000, it is Part No. AH3BP270 (Fast Road) and is from a ?billet? and not a regrind. Are the Piper Cams generally considered good quality? Any comments on this subject would be appreciated. Gary Hodson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Mar 25 11:38:06 2018 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2018 11:38:06 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Almost exactly a year to do References: <78fb4515-f408-067c-9ab2-69b7a614c033@porterscustom.com> The '61 is ready for delivery..? got 1 wave per mile 8-) 1st pic is the best representation of the color.. Austin Healey '66 BJ8 on deck.. Steve, I'll send pics and #'s for registry..dp -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2902 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: becker TR3 fini 3.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1580825 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Becker TR3 finished.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1386352 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Becker TR3 fini 2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1132114 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Mar 25 14:15:53 2018 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2018 16:15:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Almost exactly a year to do References: <78fb4515-f408-067c-9ab2-69b7a614c033@porterscustom.com> <5ee404cf-4f0b-9ee5-0300-5d432cab8955@porterscustom.com> Thank you, Dave. That's my favorite color on the TR. Beautiful job! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David P Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 1:38 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Almost exactly a year to do The '61 is ready for delivery.. got 1 wave per mile 8-) 1st pic is the best representation of the color.. Austin Healey '66 BJ8 on deck.. Steve, I'll send pics and #'s for registry..dp -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2902 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ http://www.avg.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Mar 25 17:38:06 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2018 23:38:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Almost exactly a year to do References: <78fb4515-f408-067c-9ab2-69b7a614c033@porterscustom.com> <5ee404cf-4f0b-9ee5-0300-5d432cab8955@porterscustom.com> <03e001d3c476$17c7ee40$4757cac0$@rr.com> Was looking for a late TR3 when I found my Healey. Always loved those card. Looks great. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Sun, Mar 25, 2018, 2:18 PM BJ8Healeys wrote: > Thank you, Dave. That's my favorite color on the TR. Beautiful job! > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David P > Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 1:38 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Almost exactly a year to do > > > > > The '61 is ready for delivery.. got 1 wave per mile 8-) > > 1st pic is the best representation of the color.. > > Austin Healey '66 BJ8 on deck.. Steve, I'll send pics and #'s for > registry..dp > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2902 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My > World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > > > http://www.avg.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmolony1 at bigpond.com Sun Mar 25 18:06:08 2018 From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (gmolony1 at bigpond.com) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 11:06:08 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Almost exactly a year to do References: <78fb4515-f408-067c-9ab2-69b7a614c033@porterscustom.com> <5ee404cf-4f0b-9ee5-0300-5d432cab8955@porterscustom.com> Great looking car Dave. Well done .Love the colour and TR3A's as well. Amazing how much common Lucas gear appeared on both the Healey's and the triumphs Graeme M -----Original Message----- From: David P Sent: Monday, March 26, 2018 4:38 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Almost exactly a year to do The '61 is ready for delivery.. got 1 wave per mile 8-) 1st pic is the best representation of the color.. Austin Healey '66 BJ8 on deck.. Steve, I'll send pics and #'s for registry..dp -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2902 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 25 19:16:47 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 09:16:47 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary carb References: <16235625585-1dcd-9abb@webjas-vab071.srv.aolmail.net> Both Jaguar and Austin healey issued factory advisories on this and recommended disconnecting the otter switch and installing a toggle on the dash. I have copies of the advisory somewhere... ! On Sun, Mar 18, 2018 at 3:14 AM, wrote: > I worked with another couple who restored their car and retained the > original auxiliary carb, but we found one problem with it on the car's > maiden voyage. The second morning on the trip, they started up the car with > no problem and then drove it a few blocks to the gas station to fill it up. > After the fill up they couldn't get it to start. It finally started up all > right after about 30 minutes. Turned out the problem was that it hadn't had > the chance to warm up enough to shut off the switch, but it still had fuel > in the system, so it was flooding itself. After that, he switched over to > an on-off switch he hid under the dash, which he used as if it were a > choke, turning it on to get the car started and then switching it off. > > > G. > > *Gary Anderson* > Los Altos, California > > > > -----Original Message----- > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Mar 25 19:19:07 2018 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 09:19:07 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 in Call the Midwife References: <00c101d3c337$2d80a6e0$8881f4a0$@tpg.com.au> <010901d3c35b$a21aec30$e650c490$@tpg.com.au> Sometimes the level of knowledge in here is frightening! By the way I never talk about it much in here but my dad fought in the Bay of Pigs... Cheers, Alan On Sat, Mar 24, 2018 at 6:33 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > Wonderful Rick > > > > Thank you very much. > > > > Interesting as I thought it was a BJ7 while it?s clear from the photo > that?s it?s a BJ8. Clearly whoever organised the props for the show made a > mistake as everyone was ringing their hands about the Cuban Missile Crisis > which occurred in October 1962 and the BJ8 wasn?t released until October > 1963. > > > > Best wishes > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Mon Mar 26 08:19:56 2018 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 14:19:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] cam failure References: <1625db9a546-c88-1fb97@webjas-vae058.srv.aolmail.net> I trust the engine oil being used had the right concentration of Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate? Proper concentrations should be 1500 to 1700 ppm. Current engine oils are at about 500 ? 600 ppm. Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 11:15 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] cam failure A friend recently had a reground cam fail after a few years of normal use. The engine had been professionally rebuilt. There are several possible explanations, however one unusual thing he discovered is that the wear on the lobes & tappets is only apparent on cylinders 4,5 & 6. The worst visible wear is on the exhaust valve lobe/tappet of Cyl 6. & the least wear is on the exhaust valve lobe/tappet of Cyl 4. Cyls 1,2 & 3 appear to be in very good condition. Does this suggest any specific cause for the failure? He will be having the cam & tappets replaced & will be using a Piper Camshaft, for an Austin Healey 3000, it is Part No. AH3BP270 (Fast Road) and is from a ?billet? and not a regrind. Are the Piper Cams generally considered good quality? Any comments on this subject would be appreciated. Gary Hodson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Mon Mar 26 08:38:09 2018 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 10:38:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] cam failure That is one of the possible causes of the failure. But it does not explain why the failure is confined to the rear 3 cyls of the engine. Unless they are naturally hotter cylinders &/or they naturally receive less lubrication. I am still hoping to receive comments about Piper Cams. Thanks, Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Ed O'Neal To: warthodson ; healeys Sent: Mon, Mar 26, 2018 9:20 am Subject: RE: [Healeys] cam failure I trust the engine oil being used had the right concentration ofZinc dialkyldithiophosphate? Proper concentrations should be 1500 to 1700 ppm. Current engine oils are at about 500 ? 600 ppm. ed at wadsworthoneal.com Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 11:15 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] cam failure A friend recently had a reground cam fail after a few years of normal use. The engine had been professionally rebuilt. There are several possible explanations, however one unusual thing he discovered is that the wear on the lobes & tappets is only apparent on cylinders 4,5 & 6. The worst visible wear is on the exhaust valve lobe/tappet of Cyl 6. & the least wear is on the exhaust valve lobe/tappet of Cyl 4. Cyls 1,2 & 3 appear to be in very good condition. Does this suggest any specific cause for the failure? He will be having the cam & tappets replaced & will be using aPiper Camshaft, for an Austin Healey 3000, it is Part No. AH3BP270 (Fast Road) and is from a ?billet? and not a regrind. Are the Piper Cams generally considered good quality? Any comments on this subject would be appreciated. Gary Hodson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Mar 26 09:00:33 2018 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 08:00:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?healey_on_midwife?= wife calls me in from garage stating there is healey on the TV. midwife was on and showed a beautiful bj8. only thing wrong with it was steering wheel on wrong side. From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Mon Mar 26 16:06:39 2018 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 22:06:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Re - Healey on Midwife References: <1848874451.12063899.1522101999793.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Regarding the left hand drive - many Healeys were bought LHD by US air force personnel for taking home after their tour of duty. The USAF had the use of several RAF bases for many years after WW2.? Mike Brooks56 BN2 Scotland Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Mon Mar 26 18:50:30 2018 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 17:50:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Kilmartin frame rail repair pieces I bought a length of a Kilmartin frame rail repair piece. I assumed when I bought it that it was slightly undersized so it would fit between the existing sides. It appears to be slightly narrower then the factory frame rail side but not narrow enough to fit inside. Can any one out there sheds some light on the best way to deal with this situation? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 26 22:33:24 2018 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 21:33:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Kilmartin frame rail repair pieces References: I am not sure what piece you bought. Do you have a part number? Perhaps it is meant to replace the frame section and needs to be slightly expanded to fit. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Monday, March 26, 2018 5:51 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Kilmartin frame rail repair pieces I bought a length of a Kilmartin frame rail repair piece. I assumed when I bought it that it was slightly undersized so it would fit between the existing sides. It appears to be slightly narrower then the factory frame rail side but not narrow enough to fit inside. Can any one out there sheds some light on the best way to deal with this situation? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Tue Mar 27 02:19:47 2018 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 18:19:47 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Kilmartin frame rail repair pieces References: Send Greg or John an email and ask the question. kas at ncable.net.au John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Tuesday, 27 March 2018 10:51 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Kilmartin frame rail repair pieces I bought a length of a Kilmartin frame rail repair piece. I assumed when I bought it that it was slightly undersized so it would fit between the existing sides. It appears to be slightly narrower then the factory frame rail side but not narrow enough to fit inside. Can any one out there sheds some light on the best way to deal with this situation? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Mar 27 03:09:07 2018 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 20:09:07 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Kilmartin frame rail repair pieces References: <000001d3c5a4$5efe5130$1cfaf390$@com.au> Hello Or give them a call on 61 3 5335 6940. They are good blokes who speak English, albeit with an Australian accent. Remember the time difference. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia Who speaks the same language From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Rowe Sent: Tuesday, 27 March 2018 7:20 PM To: 'richard mayor'; 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kilmartin frame rail repair pieces Send Greg or John an email and ask the question. kas at ncable.net.au John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Tuesday, 27 March 2018 10:51 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Kilmartin frame rail repair pieces I bought a length of a Kilmartin frame rail repair piece. I assumed when I bought it that it was slightly undersized so it would fit between the existing sides. It appears to be slightly narrower then the factory frame rail side but not narrow enough to fit inside. Can any one out there sheds some light on the best way to deal with this situation? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Mar 27 11:41:08 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 10:41:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Non adj Button We are trying to restore a Non Adjustable horn button for a 100/6. Has anyone succesfully re done the silver in the button. Yes I have talked to Curt Arnt and he has not had success yet either. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0719[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 25525 bytes Desc: not available URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue Mar 27 17:16:19 2018 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 16:16:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Kilmartin frame rail repair pieces References: Thanks for all the replies. Kilmartin makes repair pieces that patch into either the top side or the bottom side of the chassis rails. They make two sizes AH 554 and AH 555. AH 554 is the same width as the chassis rail. AH 555 is a narrower repair piece that can be inserted into the top or the bottom of a chassis rail. The 1" lip fits inside the chassis rail. It turns out I have the narrower piece but it did not appear to me, when I posted this question, that it was narrow enough to fit within the sides. It looks like its gonna be a very tight fit. On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 5:50 PM, richard mayor wrote: > I bought a length of a Kilmartin frame rail repair piece. I assumed when > I bought it that it was slightly undersized so it would fit between the > existing sides. It appears to be slightly narrower then the factory frame > rail side but not narrow enough to fit inside. Can any one out there sheds > some light on the best way to deal with this situation? > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue Mar 27 17:58:29 2018 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 16:58:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Converting 100/6 steel disc wheel cars to disc brakes If anyone out there is longing to do this, I have a pair of a 3000 disc brake / disc wheel hubs, calipers, caliper mounting brackets and special bolts, brake pipe brackets and dust shields that I am ready to sell. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Mar 27 19:50:46 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2018 01:50:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Kilmartin frame rail repair pieces References: Bigger hammer Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Tue, Mar 27, 2018, 5:57 PM richard mayor wrote: > Thanks for all the replies. Kilmartin makes repair pieces that patch into > either the top side or the bottom side of the chassis rails. They make two > sizes AH 554 and AH 555. AH 554 is the same width as the chassis rail. AH > 555 is a narrower repair piece that can be inserted into the top or the > bottom of a chassis rail. The 1" lip fits inside the chassis rail. > > It turns out I have the narrower piece but it did not appear to me, when I > posted this question, that it was narrow enough to fit within the sides. It > looks like its gonna be a very tight fit. > > On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 5:50 PM, richard mayor > wrote: > >> I bought a length of a Kilmartin frame rail repair piece. I assumed when >> I bought it that it was slightly undersized so it would fit between the >> existing sides. It appears to be slightly narrower then the factory frame >> rail side but not narrow enough to fit inside. Can any one out there sheds >> some light on the best way to deal with this situation? >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drscholz at visioncenterpc.com Tue Mar 27 22:14:32 2018 From: drscholz at visioncenterpc.com (Chris Scholz) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2018 04:14:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 -play in the steering. [image1.png] I have been restoring my BN4 and most everything has been updated except the shocks, kingpins, and steering components. There is some play in the steering at highway speeds. I have tightened the set screw in the gearbox which has helped. Any suggestions on which components to replace next? The kingpins seem tight. Working on the tie rods, etc is new stuff for me. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone Chris Scholz OD -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.png Type: image/png Size: 5202637 bytes Desc: image1.png URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Mar 27 23:16:30 2018 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 22:16:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Re - Healey on Midwife References: <1848874451.12063899.1522101999793.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1848874451.12063899.1522101999793@mail.yahoo.com> As was mine, which was purchased by a U.S. Marine stationed in Okinawa. He took delivery in early 1961. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mike brooks Sent: Monday, March 26, 2018 3:07 PM To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net Cc: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Re - Healey on Midwife Regarding the left hand drive - many Healeys were bought LHD by US air force personnel for taking home after their tour of duty. The USAF had the use of several RAF bases for many years after WW2. Mike Brooks 56 BN2 Scotland Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Mar 28 01:57:44 2018 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2018 08:57:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 -play in the steering. References: <9452B00C-C210-4150-A873-0234FE7A0F52@visioncenterpc.com> Car looks great. I like that colour scheme, (having opted for it myself). If the thing is up and running, as it appears to be, I'd leave it alone for a while...run it around/use it and discover what needs to be done rather than what might need to be done. I wouldn't replace anything " for the sake of it". Yes, I'd say that there are some things which would be replaced automatically...all the rubber in the brake system etc. But otherwise, suck it and see. These days, there's a chance that the things you replace are better made and would last longer than their modern replacements. Good luck with it anyway, Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Scholz Sent: 28 March 2018 05:15 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 -play in the steering. I have been restoring my BN4 and most everything has been updated except the shocks, kingpins, and steering components. There is some play in the steering at highway speeds. I have tightened the set screw in the gearbox which has helped. Any suggestions on which components to replace next? The kingpins seem tight. Working on the tie rods, etc is new stuff for me. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone Chris Scholz OD -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 5202637 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Mar 28 08:36:53 2018 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2018 07:36:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 -play in the steering. References: <9452B00C-C210-4150-A873-0234FE7A0F52@visioncenterpc.com> <01c001d3c66a$75a42100$60ec6300$@alexarevel.plus.com> Depends on what you mean by 'some play.'? Healey steering boxes are old school worm and peg 'technology.'? There is usually a little play in the steering wheel; about an inch side-to-side at the outer rim of the steering wheel is typical/acceptable, and this is evident at a stop and at all speeds.? You can tighten the adjustable 'thrust bolt' only to a point, beyond which the worm and peg may bind and the wheel will not return to center.? There is also the notorious 'scuttle shake,' which is a resonant vibration usually around 55-60MPH, esp. on rough roads (this is due to chassis resonance, not steering).? Properly set up, a Big Healey should track fairly straight on a straight, flat road, but if your car wanders excessively or has any erratic vibrations or jerkiness it should be investigated.? Some things to look for: - side-to-side play on the steering rocker shaft; there is a bronze bush at the bottom of the box that can wear.? Same with the idler. - check steering box and idler mounting bolts - were the tie rod ends in good nick?? I think the earlier cars had grease fittings; if they weren't properly serviced they would have worn. - the king pins have bushes at the top and bottom trunnions.? Check by getting the front end A-arms up on jackstands, grabbing the tire/wheel at the top and bottom and trying to move the wheel back-and-forth vertically - the front shocks are also, of course, the top of the front suspension.? The upper A-arms are mounted to a shaft in the shock that also has bushes; if they're worn you'd probably get some vibration or wobble.? I think you can check that by removing the wheel and trying to move the upper suspension side-to-side and front-to-back.? Shocks can be rebuilt. - wheel/tire balance and true.? Wire wheels can easily go 'out of true.'? This can contribute to scuttle shake and other vibrations. It appears you have 48-spoke wheels; though correct for your car, if you intend to do much, um, 'spirited' driving you may break some spokes. Nice car, BTW. Bob On 3/28/2018 12:57 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > Car looks great. I like that colour scheme, (having opted for it myself). > > If the thing is up and running, as it appears to be, I?d leave it > alone for a while??.run it around/use it and discover what /needs/ to > be done rather than what /might/ need to be done. I wouldn?t replace > anything ? for the sake of it?. Yes, I?d say that there are some > things which would be replaced automatically?..all the rubber in the > brake system etc. But otherwise, suck it and see. These days, there?s > a chance that the things you replace are better made and would last > longer than their modern replacements. > > Good luck with it anyway, > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Chris Scholz > *Sent:* 28 March 2018 05:15 > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] 1959 100-6 -play in the steering. > > > > I have been restoring my BN4 and most everything has been updated > except the shocks, kingpins, and steering components. ?There is some > play in the steering at highway speeds. ?I have tightened the set > screw in the gearbox which has helped. ?Any suggestions on which > components to replace next? ?The kingpins seem tight. ?Working on the > tie rods, etc is new stuff for me. ?Thanks. > > Sent from my iPhone > > Chris Scholz OD > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Mar 29 10:58:38 2018 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2018 10:58:38 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] '66 BJ8 for sale Folks, ?MY body shop partner has a Big Healey for sale.? here is his email for pictures and pricing.?? Jim? Gryniuck ? It's very solid builder IMHO. Good oil pressure. Doesn't smoke, that I've seen. I'm out of it. Email Jim DaveP -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2902 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From sebring3000 at bigpond.com Fri Mar 30 05:40:20 2018 From: sebring3000 at bigpond.com (sebring3000 sebring3000) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 22:40:20 +1100 (AEDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Hardtop hood lining. Does anyone have advice or recommendations as to where I can purchase original style or looking like vinyl. Thanks Joe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Fri Mar 30 07:53:19 2018 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 09:53:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Hardtop hood lining. References: <11df5aad.15cac7.16276b55e1d.Webtop.97@bigpond.com> If you are referring to the vinyl headlining material in the roadster hardtops (not BJ7/8 hardtops), I searched everywhere I could imagine & could not find exact original pattern material. Despite what some companies claim. I ordered samples from several suppliers & did not like any of them. I had some good original samples & took them to a vintage auto upholstery shop & looked thru his headliner sample books. The closest I could find was a Mercedes headliner. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: sebring3000 sebring3000 To: healeys Sent: Fri, Mar 30, 2018 7:19 am Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Hardtop hood lining. Does anyone have advice or recommendations as to where I can purchase original style or looking like vinyl. Thanks Joe _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 30 09:22:23 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 08:22:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Hardtop hood lining. References: <11df5aad.15cac7.16276b55e1d.Webtop.97@bigpond.com> Is the BJ8 headliner the same material as the earlier headliner material. If do we have it available. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: sebring3000 sebring3000 Sent: Friday, March 30, 2018 4:40 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Hardtop hood lining. Does anyone have advice or recommendations as to where I can purchase original style or looking like vinyl. Thanks Joe -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahmg at aol.com Fri Mar 30 11:58:22 2018 From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 13:58:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Hardtop hood lining. References: <11df5aad.15cac7.16276b55e1d.Webtop.97@bigpond.com> No original BJ 8 headliner is not the same. Ken Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 30, 2018, at 11:22 AM, David Nock BCS wrote: > > Is the BJ8 headliner the same material as the earlier headliner material. If do we have it available. > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > From: sebring3000 sebring3000 > Sent: Friday, March 30, 2018 4:40 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Hardtop hood lining. > > Does anyone have advice or recommendations as to where I can purchase original style or looking like vinyl. > > Thanks > Joe > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Fri Mar 30 14:08:23 2018 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 16:08:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] mystery part Hello, ??????????????? Does anyone recognize the cup washer in the pictures. My friend found it underneath his BN1 . Looks like it might be retainer for a spring? It may have been dropped decades ago and finally fell out. ????????????????????????????????????????????? Thanks ??????????????????????????????????????????? Wayne -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2818.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1095521 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2819.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 946176 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Fri Mar 30 14:50:35 2018 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 13:50:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] mystery part References: <401b5fd8-7b11-03c9-d27b-49a9386d2aa3@gmail.com> SU carburetor float bowl cover cap, sits underneat the brass nut, allows overflow. Did i win a prize? ;-) Bert Sent from my iPad > On Mar 30, 2018, at 1:08 PM, Wayne wrote: > > Hello, > > > Does anyone recognize the cup washer in the pictures. My friend found it underneath his BN1 . Looks like it might be retainer for a spring? It may have been dropped decades ago and finally fell out. > > Thanks > > Wayne > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bertvanbrande at yahoo.com > From ah100register at gmail.com Fri Mar 30 15:06:16 2018 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 22:06:16 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] mystery part References: <401b5fd8-7b11-03c9-d27b-49a9386d2aa3@gmail.com> Fits under main top nut of an SU carburettor. Indents allow top of chamber to breath Regards On 30 March 2018 at 21:08, Wayne wrote: > Hello, > > > Does anyone recognize the cup washer in the pictures. My > friend found it underneath his BN1 . Looks like it might be retainer for a > spring? It may have been dropped decades ago and finally fell out. > > Thanks > > Wayne > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Mar 30 15:08:07 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 14:08:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays To those who participate Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 323863 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 30 15:45:49 2018 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 14:45:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] mystery part References: <401b5fd8-7b11-03c9-d27b-49a9386d2aa3@gmail.com> Float Bowl breather they go against the float bowl lid with a washer and then the nut. There also should be a small groove in the top lip of the lid with this style breather. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Wayne Sent: Friday, March 30, 2018 1:08 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] mystery part Hello, Does anyone recognize the cup washer in the pictures. My friend found it underneath his BN1 . Looks like it might be retainer for a spring? It may have been dropped decades ago and finally fell out. Thanks Wayne _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Mar 31 00:38:11 2018 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2018 06:38:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays References: Ira, Ira, Ira, now that is funny.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Mar 30, 2018 at 3:23 PM, i erbs wrote: To those who participate Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB ? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 323863 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Mar 31 00:39:19 2018 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2018 06:39:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays References: <557937841.99982.1522478291512@mail.yahoo.com> Cheers Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Fri, Mar 30, 2018, 11:38 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > Ira, Ira, Ira, now that is funny. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Fri, Mar 30, 2018 at 3:23 PM, i erbs > wrote: > To those who participate > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 323863 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sebring3000 at bigpond.com Fri Mar 30 05:33:29 2018 From: sebring3000 at bigpond.com (sebring3000 sebring3000) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 11:33:29 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Re - Healey on Midwife References: <1848874451.12063899.1522101999793.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1848874451.12063899.1522101999793@mail.yahoo.com> <030f01d3c653$f08a0a40$d19e1ec0$@roadrunner.com> When Donald negotiated his agreement with Austin he kept exclusive sales access to the US airbases in UK. He knew who had the money and the cheap airfreight home and zero or low import taxes. Cunning Donald. I understand that many US servicemen with little interest in a Healey did it for the money. Joe ------ Original Message ------ From: "Bruce Steele" To: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk; healeymanjim at hansencc.net Cc: "'Healeys'" Sent: Wednesday, 28 Mar, 2018 At 4:16 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Re - Healey on Midwife As was mine, which was purchased by a U.S. Marine stationed in Okinawa.? He took delivery in early 1961. ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mike brooks Sent: Monday, March 26, 2018 3:07 PM To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net Cc: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Re - Healey on Midwife ? Regarding the left hand drive - many Healeys were bought LHD by US air force personnel for taking home after their tour of duty. The USAF had the use of several RAF bases for many years after WW2.? ? Mike Brooks 56 BN2 Scotland ? Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys sebring3000 at bigpond.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sebring3000 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: