From prattri at msn.com Wed Nov 1 12:34:46 2017 From: prattri at msn.com (Richard Pratt) Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2017 18:34:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Piston Manufacture Group, I am looking for a piston manufacture who makes a doomed piston without a skirt below the wrist pin for a 3000 engine. TIA Richard -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Nov 1 14:37:30 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2017 13:37:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Ashtray Hold Down Screw References: <15f7446d17b-c0e-a76f@webjas-vaa005.srv.aolmail.net> I would think x-32 would be the default guess for every screw on the car.... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Oct 31, 2017 at 2:11 PM, Larry Wendland wrote: > Harold, I have a '67 BJ8 and its ash tray looks the same as the one in the > parts diagram. My screws are 6-32 counter sunk phillips head. I checked my > screws with my tap and die set and a 6-32 nut. I hope this helps you. > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold > To: healeys > Sent: Sat, Oct 28, 2017 8:44 pm > Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Ashtray Hold Down Screw > > > > Hello out there, > > Does anyone know the thread pitch for the ashtray hold down screws on an > AH 3000 Mk1? Item 22 in the attached picture. The BMC part number is > CMZ0208 so I know it is #6 x 1/2" but I have to retap the threads and I > don't have the old screws. > > Thanks in advance for your help.... Harold > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Nov 1 16:29:18 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2017 15:29:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Ashtray Hold Down Screw References: <15f7446d17b-c0e-a76f@webjas-vaa005.srv.aolmail.net> Screw sizes 6 x 40 8 x 36 10 x 32 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: i erbs Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2017 1:37 PM To: Larry Wendland Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH 3000 Ashtray Hold Down Screw I would think x-32 would be the default guess for every screw on the car.... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Oct 31, 2017 at 2:11 PM, Larry Wendland wrote: Harold, I have a '67 BJ8 and its ash tray looks the same as the one in the parts diagram. My screws are 6-32 counter sunk phillips head. I checked my screws with my tap and die set and a 6-32 nut. I hope this helps you. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: healeys Sent: Sat, Oct 28, 2017 8:44 pm Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Ashtray Hold Down Screw Hello out there, Does anyone know the thread pitch for the ashtray hold down screws on an AH 3000 Mk1? Item 22 in the attached picture. The BMC part number is CMZ0208 so I know it is #6 x 1/2" but I have to retap the threads and I don't have the old screws. Thanks in advance for your help.... Harold _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Thu Nov 2 08:42:04 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2017 10:42:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Ashtray Hold Down Screw References: <15f7d0c086d-c11-1133@webjas-vaa097.srv.aolmail.net> A CMZ 0208 screw is a zinc plated, recessed countersunk machine screw - unified threads - #6 X 1/2" long 32 threads per inch (UNC) The source is the BMC Standards. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: David Nock BCS To: i erbs ; Larry Wendland Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Wed, Nov 1, 2017 8:00 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH 3000 Ashtray Hold Down Screw Screw sizes 6 x 40 8 x 36 10 x 32 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com On Tue, Oct 31, 2017 at 2:11 PM, Larry Wendland wrote: Harold, I have a '67 BJ8 and its ash tray looks the same as the one in the parts diagram. My screws are 6-32 counter sunk phillips head. I checked my screws with my tap and die set and a 6-32 nut. I hope this helps you. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: healeys Sent: Sat, Oct 28, 2017 8:44 pm Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Ashtray Hold Down Screw Hello out there, Does anyone know the thread pitch for the ashtray hold down screws on an AH 3000 Mk1? Item 22 in the attached picture. The BMC part number is CMZ0208 so I know it is #6 x 1/2" but I have to retap the threads and I don't have the old screws. Thanks in advance for your help.... Harold _______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Thu Nov 2 10:04:30 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2017 12:04:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Anyone know if the new steel tank from Moss has a screen or such on the pick-up tube? After all the fuss getting my odd ball tank ready to install I find the tank discharge fitting has no bevel to match the fuel line. It has the correct thread but the end is just square cut. Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Thu Nov 2 12:18:00 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2017 14:18:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank References: <2098700263.667334008.1509646666968.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> FYI, Just heard back from Moss Motors, reply below Hello Tim. My name is Blaine Graham. I?m part of the Moss Technical Support Team. Thanks for a great question. I got one of these from the warehouse. With the baffles, I was blind. Then, common sense got a hold of me. This tank is made for us. I got a set of the drawings and looked. Bingo! Yes. There is an inlet filter at the bottom of the sump tube. Mystery solved. Have a safe weekend. BPG Blaine Graham Tech Services Moss Motors, LTD. 805.679.7237 grahamb at mossmotors.com Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Davis BN7 To: 'healeys' Sent: Thu, 02 Nov 2017 12:04:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Anyone know if the new steel tank from Moss has a screen or such on the pick-up tube? After all the fuss getting my odd ball tank ready to install I find the tank discharge fitting has no bevel to match the fuel line. It has the correct thread but the end is just square cut. Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Thu Nov 2 15:24:42 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2017 17:24:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires, redux References: We're updating the Inspection Policies and Restoration Guidelines for the Austin-Healey Concours Registry and are considering changing the policies regarding tires to indicate that currently available 165/80R15s are the preferred size and style of tires, with no consideration of brand. We are also becoming stricter about insisting that cars presented for inspection must have five tires of matching size and brand that are all less than 10 years old. We've found that the preferred tires are readily available from Tire Rack, Coker Tire and other sources in that size, as Pirelli Cinturatos, Michelin XZX, and several generic brands (such as Classic), all of which are safe for long-distance touring and highway cruising. I thought I would ask if people with concerns about restorations to vintage appearance have any questions or suggestions to offer? G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu Nov 2 18:54:49 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2017 17:54:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question Well, after experiencing what seems to be "condenser misfiring" on my way back from Russ Thompson's shop, I'm thinking I may end my stubborn holdout and convert to Pertronix. I've a few questions: 1) What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II? a. Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II? b. Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug wires, or do you replace the cap as well? c. Sources for caps and wires? I'm assuming the Pertronix cap in the Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not fit a DM6 distributor. Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder. 2) Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well? 3) The connection looks straight forward-red to coil (+), black to coil (-) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into the harness. Obviously the while/black from coil (-) to the distributor is removed. 4) Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A. Is this applicable to the DM6? 5) Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly secured to a hole in the housing with nuts. I'm assuming I have to remove the points plate to gain access, correct? Thanks in advance for the input. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Nov 2 20:42:10 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2017 19:42:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question References: <0c1c01d3543e$5b9a22d0$12ce6870$@roadrunner.com> Bruce, I recommend you call Pertronix and discuss with one of their techs; I've found them to be knowledgeable and helpful. IIRC, the wiring scheme is different for a pos. ground car vs. a neg. ground car.? (pos. gnd. is simpler, and allows you to retain the 'anti-theft' feature of the w/b wire to the cutoff switch with a bit of modification, if you so choose).? Their site says the II requires suppression ignition wires, so you'll need a different cap and wires.?? If by 'points plate' you mean the advance plate, the answer is no; the Pertronix replaces the points screw-for-screw (minus the condenser, of course).? Timing will be off--probably retarded by 20deg or more--after the Pertronix install. The Ignitors (Is) in my BN2 and BJ8 gave overall improvement with OEM coils; they'll throw a 3/4 inch spark outside the cylinder. Bob On 11/2/2017 5:54 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > Well, after experiencing what seems to be ?condenser misfiring? on my > way back from Russ Thompson?s shop, I?m thinking I may end my stubborn > holdout and convert to Pertronix.? I?ve a few questions: > > 1)What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II? > > a.Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II? > > b.Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug > wires, or do you replace the cap as well? > > c.Sources for caps and wires?? I?m assuming the Pertronix cap in the > Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not > fit a DM6 distributor.? Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder. > > 2)Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well? > > 3)The connection looks straight forward?red to coil (+), black to coil > (?) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into > the harness.? Obviously the while/black from coil (?) to the > distributor is removed. > > 4)Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A.? Is this applicable > to the DM6? > > 5)Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead > post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly > secured to a hole in the housing with nuts.? I?m assuming I have to > remove the points plate to gain access, correct? > > Thanks in advance for the input. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Thu Nov 2 21:28:27 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2017 20:28:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Piston Manufacture References: A09heAjfJQS28A09jeM6w2 Richard, Try Wossner and Cosworth. Both make forged high performance pistons for a 3000 engine but not sure if they make a domed piston. Valve clearance will be an important consideration with domed pistons. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Pratt Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2017 11:35 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Piston Manufacture Group, I am looking for a piston manufacture who makes a doomed piston without a skirt below the wrist pin for a 3000 engine. TIA Richard -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Thu Nov 2 21:28:45 2017 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2017 20:28:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question References: <0c1c01d3543e$5b9a22d0$12ce6870$@roadrunner.com> Don't do it. Petronix sucks. I buy condensers by the gross. The bad ones are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a decade. They are cheap and easy to replace. Once I started using Autozone Coils instead of Bosch and Lucas, and once you have a "right" condenser, it's as simple as adjusting the point gap every spring and forgetting about it. If you really must, MSD setup with the disc and brain are bulletproof, but ugly to look at. I'll be pulling the Petronix out of my recently purchased (and poorly running) E Type over the weekend. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 5:55 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question Well, after experiencing what seems to be "condenser misfiring" on my way back from Russ Thompson's shop, I'm thinking I may end my stubborn holdout and convert to Pertronix. I've a few questions: 1. What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II? a. Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II? b. Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug wires, or do you replace the cap as well? c. Sources for caps and wires? I'm assuming the Pertronix cap in the Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not fit a DM6 distributor. Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder. 2. Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well? 3. The connection looks straight forward-red to coil (+), black to coil (-) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into the harness. Obviously the while/black from coil (-) to the distributor is removed. 4. Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A. Is this applicable to the DM6? 5. Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly secured to a hole in the housing with nuts. I'm assuming I have to remove the points plate to gain access, correct? Thanks in advance for the input. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Thu Nov 2 22:33:39 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 00:33:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Tim, He answered your question about the pickup screen but not about the flared end on the "discharge fitting" or "outlet fitting" Larry '67BJ8. -----Original Message----- From: Tim Davis BN7 To: Tim Davis BN7 Cc: 'healeys' Sent: Thu, Nov 2, 2017 5:19 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Tank FYI, Just heard back from Moss Motors, reply below Hello Tim. ? My name is Blaine Graham. I?m part of the Moss Technical Support Team. ? Thanks for a great question. ? I got one of these from the warehouse. With the baffles, I was blind. Then, common sense got a hold of me. This tank is made for us. I got a set of the drawings and looked. Bingo! ? Yes. There is an inlet filter at the bottom of the sump tube. ? Mystery solved. ? Have a safe weekend. ? BPG ? Blaine Graham Tech Services Moss Motors, LTD. 805.679.7237 grahamb at mossmotors.com Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Davis BN7 To: 'healeys' Sent: Thu, 02 Nov 2017 12:04:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Anyone know if the new steel tank from Moss has a screen or such on the pick-up tube? After all the fuss getting my odd ball tank ready to install I find the tank discharge fitting has no bevel to match the fuel line. It has the correct thread but the end is just square cut. Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From josef-eckert at t-online.de Fri Nov 3 01:34:22 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 08:34:22 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] Tires, redux References: <15f7e9f2f43-c13-1de6@webjas-vad193.srv.aolmail.net> Hi Gary, to answer your qustion. Here in the UK at National Concours the factory fitted tyres are the ones we prefer to see on a concours car. This means for Big Healeys it is the tyre size 590/15 in cross ply. Up to last year the original DUNLOP RS5 tyre in 590/15 was still available and was the prefered tyre. Unfortunately GOODYEAR/DUNLOP ceased production.. Now we still have the AVON tyre in 590/15, which is from a concours point of view the prefered tyre for Big Healeys in Concours. For the Sprites the 520//13 is also still available and prefered. All other sorts of tyres fitted at Concours will give a deduction. When radials are fitted like 165/80 15s or 175/80, 180/80, 185/80 they should have a period style and not modern thread pattern. Deductions are given anyway, but depending on the look from a period point of view. 185/70s are the worst in the line. Josef Eckert National Concours Secretary Austin-Healey Club UK -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tires, redux Datum: 2017-11-03T00:43:42+0100 Von: "editorgary at aol.com" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" We're updating the Inspection Policies and Restoration Guidelines for the Austin-Healey Concours Registry and are considering changing the policies regarding tires to indicate that currently available 165/80R15s are the preferred size and style of tires, with no consideration of brand. We are also becoming stricter about insisting that cars presented for inspection must have five tires of matching size and brand that are all less than 10 years old. We've found that the preferred tires are readily available from Tire Rack, Coker Tire and other sources in that size, as Pirelli Cinturatos, Michelin XZX, and several generic brands (such as Classic), all of which are safe for long-distance touring and highway cruising. I thought I would ask if people with concerns about restorations to vintage appearance have any questions or suggestions to offer? G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Nov 3 05:19:25 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 12:19:25 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tires, redux References: <15f7e9f2f43-c13-1de6@webjas-vad193.srv.aolmail.net> Very strange. So the original tyre size590/15 (cross ply) is not preferred and will lead to a points reduction? These X-plies are still available new. Also any proper fitting radial tyre with the same diameter should be accepted although points can arguably be deducted as none of the cars were originally fitted with radial tyres except for the later series where they would at least have been an option if not original fitment. It is however a good idea to impose a limit for the date of manufacture because of safety. Because it is not always easy or practical to get (fake?) Cinturato's or XZX's, thread pattern or brand should not have an influence. In most cases these sizes would have a more or less classic looking thread pattern anyway. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-11-2017 om 22:24 schreef editorgary at aol.com: > We're updating the Inspection Policies and Restoration Guidelines for > the Austin-Healey Concours Registry and are considering changing the > policies regarding tires to indicate that currently available > 165/80R15s are the preferred size and style of tires, with no > consideration of brand. We are also becoming stricter about insisting > that cars presented for inspection must have five tires of matching > size and brand that are all less than 10 years old. We've found that > the preferred tires are readily available from Tire Rack, Coker Tire > and other sources in that size, as Pirelli Cinturatos, Michelin XZX, > and several generic brands (such as Classic), all of which are safe > for long-distance touring and highway cruising. > > I thought I would ask if people with concerns about restorations to > vintage appearance have any questions or suggestions to offer? > > G. > > /Gary Anderson/ > Los Altos, California > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Nov 3 06:10:20 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 8:10:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question Really? I've had Pertronix in my Healey and E-Type for 13 years and have enjoy virtually trouble-free driving ever since. smooth as silK. tom ---- Jonas Payne wrote: ============= Don't do it. Petronix sucks. I buy condensers by the gross. The bad ones are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a decade. They are cheap and easy to replace. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Nov 3 06:51:30 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 13:51:30 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question References: <0c1c01d3543e$5b9a22d0$12ce6870$@roadrunner.com> Pertronics or similar is the way to go. Easy to install, bolt on! It just replaces the points and you can do away with the condenser. No need to change the plugs, wires or coil. No need to dismantle the base plate for the points in the distributor. However, make sure the bob weights under the baseplate are free to move, the same for the vacuum advance/retard mechanism Check that the overall impedance is in accordance with the instruction manual of the electronic ignition. It usually should be 3 Ohms. If your car has a ballast resistor (wire or block) in series with the coil make sure you connect the electronic ignition over both the resistor and coil. The coil and the resistor both have an impedance of ca. 1,5 Ohms, so in series 3 Ohms. Failing to do so may result in a fried electronic ignition. Alternatively you can replace the coil plus resistor with a 12V coil with an impedance of around 3 Ohms. Disconnect the bypass wire for the resistor from the starter relay. The electronic ignition has enough power to produce a decent spark during starting. You have to set the timing after fitting as it will be way out after the conversion. Nearly all problems with electronic ignition are because of not connecting it up correctly, i.e. straight to the coil instead of over coil AND resistor and leaving the bypass wire from the starter relay connected, thus frying the ignition. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-11-2017 om 1:54 schreef Bruce Steele: > > Well, after experiencing what seems to be ?condenser misfiring? on my > way back from Russ Thompson?s shop, I?m thinking I may end my stubborn > holdout and convert to Pertronix.? I?ve a few questions: > > 1)What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II? > > a.Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II? > > b.Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug > wires, or do you replace the cap as well? > > c.Sources for caps and wires?? I?m assuming the Pertronix cap in the > Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not > fit a DM6 distributor.? Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder. > > 2)Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well? > > 3)The connection looks straight forward?red to coil (+), black to coil > (?) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into > the harness.? Obviously the while/black from coil (?) to the > distributor is removed. > > 4)Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A.? Is this applicable > to the DM6? > > 5)Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead > post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly > secured to a hole in the housing with nuts.? I?m assuming I have to > remove the points plate to gain access, correct? > > Thanks in advance for the input. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Fri Nov 3 07:02:25 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 09:02:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank I actually did not ask about the fuel line connections knowing there has to be that type fitting to make a leak free connection. I will find out today though as the tank is scheduled for delivery this afternoon. If its not right everyone will hear about it. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Wendland To: tld6008 at mchsi.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 03 Nov 2017 00:33:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Tim, He answered your question about the pickup screen but not about the flared end on the "discharge fitting" or "outlet fitting" Larry '67BJ8. -----Original Message----- From: Tim Davis BN7 To: Tim Davis BN7 Cc: 'healeys' Sent: Thu, Nov 2, 2017 5:19 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Tank FYI, Just heard back from Moss Motors, reply below Hello Tim. ? My name is Blaine Graham. I?m part of the Moss Technical Support Team. ? Thanks for a great question. ? I got one of these from the warehouse. With the baffles, I was blind. Then, common sense got a hold of me. This tank is made for us. I got a set of the drawings and looked. Bingo! ? Yes. There is an inlet filter at the bottom of the sump tube. ? Mystery solved. ? Have a safe weekend. ? BPG ? Blaine Graham Tech Services Moss Motors, LTD. 805.679.7237 grahamb at mossmotors.com Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Davis BN7 To: 'healeys' Sent: Thu, 02 Nov 2017 12:04:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Anyone know if the new steel tank from Moss has a screen or such on the pick-up tube? After all the fuss getting my odd ball tank ready to install I find the tank discharge fitting has no bevel to match the fuel line. It has the correct thread but the end is just square cut. Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Nov 3 07:17:52 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 13:17:52 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question References: <006901d35453$dbad1ad0$93075070$@cox.net> <20171103081020.1PC4G.27134.root@pamxwww07-z01> Hmmm. I had an Ignitor which worked flawlessly until it turned its toes up one day. Chocolate teapot time! Happened in the garage luckily. They (UK dealership) swapped it, no questions asked. Since then, I've taken to using a 123 with the Pertronix fitted to the original distributor which lives in the boot. (And both wiring diagrams, wire, connectors etc). The 123 is a handy piece of kit. Mine came in a Bosch lookalike distributor. Different shade of brown, but looks fine. I'm almost certain that the new ones fit into the old Lucas distributor. And you can fiddle around with your advance curves on your laptop. Worth a look...... Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: 03 November 2017 12:10 To: 'Bruce Steele'; Jonas Payne; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix question Really? I've had Pertronix in my Healey and E-Type for 13 years and have enjoy virtually trouble-free driving ever since. smooth as silK. tom ---- Jonas Payne wrote: ============= Don't do it. Petronix sucks. I buy condensers by the gross. The bad ones are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a decade. They are cheap and easy to replace. _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From warthodson at aol.com Fri Nov 3 08:00:55 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 10:00:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question I am baffled by the criticism of Pertronix! I have had a Pertronix for about 10 years in my BJ8. It has been flawless. In addition, I know of at least 6 local club members who have used Pertronix with out any issues for even longer.(Except when they inadvertently reverse the polarity & fry them.) Two of us have also used Pertronix in our vintage race cars with out any issues. If you use the stock type distributor cap (I.E. side entry with pointed screws inside to secure the individual plug wires) you need to use solid copper/steel core wires. Regardless of whether you use a Pertronix or points. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Jonas Payne To: 'Bruce Steele' ; 'Healey List' Sent: Fri, Nov 3, 2017 3:40 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix question Don?t do it. Petronix sucks. I buy condensers by the gross. The bad ones are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a decade. They are cheap and easy to replace. Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question Well, after experiencing what seems to be ?condenser misfiring? on my way back from Russ Thompson?s shop, I?m thinking I may end my stubborn holdout and convert to Pertronix. I?ve a few questions: What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II? Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II? Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug wires, or do you replace the cap as well? Sources for caps and wires? I?m assuming the Pertronix cap in the Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not fit a DM6 distributor. Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder. Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well? The connection looks straight forward?red to coil (+), black to coil (?) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into the harness. Obviously the while/black from coil (?) to the distributor is removed. Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A. Is this applicable to the DM6? Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly secured to a hole in the housing with nuts. I?m assuming I have to remove the points plate to gain access, correct? Thanks in advance for the input. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Nov 3 08:14:15 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 10:14:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question FYI--when I converted to Per, I did not need to reset timing in either car---and they are smooth as silk. tom ---- Oudesluys wrote: ============= Pertronics or similar is the way to go. Easy to install, bolt on! It just replaces the points and you can do away with the condenser. No need to change the plugs, wires or coil. No need to dismantle the base plate for the points in the distributor. However, make sure the bob weights under the baseplate are free to move, the same for the vacuum advance/retard mechanism Check that the overall impedance is in accordance with the instruction manual of the electronic ignition. It usually should be 3 Ohms. If your car has a ballast resistor (wire or block) in series with the coil make sure you connect the electronic ignition over both the resistor and coil. The coil and the resistor both have an impedance of ca. 1,5 Ohms, so in series 3 Ohms. Failing to do so may result in a fried electronic ignition. Alternatively you can replace the coil plus resistor with a 12V coil with an impedance of around 3 Ohms. Disconnect the bypass wire for the resistor from the starter relay. The electronic ignition has enough power to produce a decent spark during starting. You have to set the timing after fitting as it will be way out after the conversion. From editorgary at aol.com Fri Nov 3 09:03:24 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 11:03:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires, redux Thanks; We don't see the Avon bias-ply here. All of the 165/80R15s are pretty traditional in appearance, with the branded ones (Pirelli, Michelin, and Vredesteins) preferred. I just want to get away from the argument that 185s should be fitted. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: editorgary ; Healeys, Forum Sent: Fri, Nov 3, 2017 12:34 am Subject: AW: Tires, redux Hi Gary, to answer your qustion. Here in the UK at National Concours the factory fitted tyres are the ones we prefer to see on a concours car. This means for Big Healeys it is the tyre size 590/15 in cross ply. Up to last year the original DUNLOP RS5 tyre in 590/15 was still available and was the prefered tyre. Unfortunately GOODYEAR/DUNLOP ceased production.. Now we still have the AVON tyre in 590/15, which is from a concours point of view the prefered tyre for Big Healeys in Concours. For the Sprites the 520//13 is also still available and prefered. All other sorts of tyres fitted at Concours will give a deduction. When radials are fitted like 165/80 15s or 175/80, 180/80, 185/80 they should have a period style and not modern thread pattern. Deductions are given anyway, but depending on the look from a period point of view. 185/70s are the worst in the line. Josef Eckert National Concours Secretary Austin-Healey Club UK -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tires, redux Datum: 2017-11-03T00:43:42+0100 Von: "editorgary at aol.com" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" We're updating the Inspection Policies and Restoration Guidelines for the Austin-Healey Concours Registry and are considering changing the policies regarding tires to indicate that currently available 165/80R15s are the preferred size and style of tires, with no consideration of brand. We are also becoming stricter about insisting that cars presented for inspection must have five tires of matching size and brand that are all less than 10 years old. We've found that the preferred tires are readily available from Tire Rack, Coker Tire and other sources in that size, as Pirelli Cinturatos, Michelin XZX, and several generic brands (such as Classic), all of which are safe for long-distance touring and highway cruising. I thought I would ask if people with concerns about restorations to vintage appearance have any questions or suggestions to offer? G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Nov 3 11:16:16 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 10:16:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question References: <0c1c01d3543e$5b9a22d0$12ce6870$@roadrunner.com> I have a complete pertronix replacement dizzy for sale if anyone is interested. Neg ground. I decided to keep the oem unit and had it rebuilt. Contact me off list Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 5:51 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Pertronics or similar is the way to go. > Easy to install, bolt on! It just replaces the points and you can do away > with the condenser. No need to change the plugs, wires or coil. > No need to dismantle the base plate for the points in the distributor. > However, make sure the bob weights under the baseplate are free to move, > the same for the vacuum advance/retard mechanism > Check that the overall impedance is in accordance with the instruction > manual of the electronic ignition. It usually should be 3 Ohms. If your car > has a ballast resistor (wire or block) in series with the coil make sure > you connect the electronic ignition over both the resistor and coil. The > coil and the resistor both have an impedance of ca. 1,5 Ohms, so in series > 3 Ohms. Failing to do so may result in a fried electronic ignition. > Alternatively you can replace the coil plus resistor with a 12V coil with > an impedance of around 3 Ohms. > Disconnect the bypass wire for the resistor from the starter relay. The > electronic ignition has enough power to produce a decent spark during > starting. > You have to set the timing after fitting as it will be way out after the > conversion. > > Nearly all problems with electronic ignition are because of not connecting > it up correctly, i.e. straight to the coil instead of over coil AND > resistor and leaving the bypass wire from the starter relay connected, thus > frying the ignition. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 3-11-2017 om 1:54 schreef Bruce Steele: > > Well, after experiencing what seems to be ?condenser misfiring? on my way > back from Russ Thompson?s shop, I?m thinking I may end my stubborn holdout > and convert to Pertronix. I?ve a few questions: > > 1) What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II? > > a. Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II? > > b. Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug > wires, or do you replace the cap as well? > > c. Sources for caps and wires? I?m assuming the Pertronix cap in the > Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not fit > a DM6 distributor. Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder. > > 2) Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well? > > 3) The connection looks straight forward?red to coil (+), black to > coil (?) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into > the harness. Obviously the while/black from coil (?) to the distributor is > removed. > > 4) Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A. Is this > applicable to the DM6? > > 5) Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead > post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly secured > to a hole in the housing with nuts. I?m assuming I have to remove the > points plate to gain access, correct? > > > > Thanks in advance for the input. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Nov 3 11:34:25 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 18:34:25 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tires, redux References: <15f82687302-c0f-2aaf@webjas-vae221.srv.aolmail.net> As far as I can see the 185/80R15 tyre has about the same diameter as the original 590/15. The recommended 165/80R15 is simply to small and looks awkward. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-11-2017 om 16:03 schreef editorgary at aol.com: > Thanks; We don't see the Avon bias-ply here. All of the 165/80R15s are > pretty traditional in appearance, with the branded ones (Pirelli, > Michelin, and Vredesteins) preferred. I just want to get away from the > argument that 185s should be fitted. > > > /Gary Anderson/ > Los Altos, California > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: josef-eckert > To: editorgary ; Healeys, Forum > > Sent: Fri, Nov 3, 2017 12:34 am > Subject: AW: Tires, redux > > Hi Gary, > to answer your qustion. > Here in the UK at National Concours the factory fitted tyres are the > ones we prefer to see on a concours car. This means for Big Healeys it > is the tyre size 590/15 in cross ply. Up to last year the original > DUNLOP RS5 tyre in 590/15 was still available and was the prefered > tyre. Unfortunately GOODYEAR/DUNLOP ceased production.. Now we still > have the AVON tyre in 590/15, which is from a concours point of view > the prefered tyre for Big Healeys in Concours. For the Sprites the > 520//13 is also still available and prefered. All other sorts of tyres > fitted at Concours will give a deduction. > When radials are fitted like 165/80 15s or 175/80, 180/80, 185/80 they > should have a period style and not modern thread pattern. Deductions > are given anyway, but depending on the look from a period point of > view. 185/70s are the worst in the line. > Josef Eckert > National Concours Secretary > Austin-Healey Club UK > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: [Healeys] Tires, redux > Datum: 2017-11-03T00:43:42+0100 > We're updating the Inspection Policies and Restoration Guidelines for > the Austin-Healey Concours Registry and are considering changing the > policies regarding tires to indicate that currently available > 165/80R15s are the preferred size and style of tires, with no > consideration of brand. We are also becoming stricter about insisting > that cars presented for inspection must have five tires of matching > size and brand that are all less than 10 years old. We've found that > the preferred tires are readily available from Tire Rack, Coker Tire > and other sources in that size, as Pirelli Cinturatos, Michelin XZX, > and several generic brands (such as Classic), all of which are safe > for long-distance touring and highway cruising. > > I thought I would ask if people with concerns about restorations to > vintage appearance have any questions or suggestions to offer? > > G. > /Gary Anderson/ > Los Altos, California > > ? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Nov 3 11:34:40 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 13:34:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question then you are probably in the low minority. they have been one of the best things I've done on either car. No more points fiddling for me. ---- Jonas Payne wrote: ============= Yes, really. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 -----Original Message----- From: Tom Felts [mailto:tomfelts at windstream.net] Sent: Friday, November 3, 2017 5:10 AM To: 'Bruce Steele' ; Jonas Payne ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix question Really? I've had Pertronix in my Healey and E-Type for 13 years and have enjoy virtually trouble-free driving ever since. smooth as silK. tom ---- Jonas Payne wrote: ============= Don't do it. Petronix sucks. I buy condensers by the gross. The bad ones are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a decade. They are cheap and easy to replace. From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Nov 3 11:40:28 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 10:40:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question References: <0c1c01d3543e$5b9a22d0$12ce6870$@roadrunner.com> <006901d35453$dbad1ad0$93075070$@cox.net> 'Petronix sucks' Well, that ends this conversation (but doesn't answer the OP's inquiry). With irrefutable data and proof such as this, one should not touch them with the proverbial 10ft pole. bs On 11/2/2017 8:28 PM, Jonas Payne wrote: > > Don?t do it.? Petronix sucks.?? I buy condensers by the gross.? The > bad ones are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a > decade.? They are cheap and easy to replace. > > Once I started using Autozone Coils instead of Bosch and Lucas, and > once you have ?a ?right? ?condenser, it?s as simple as adjusting the > point gap every spring and forgetting about it. > > If you really must, MSD setup with the disc and brain are bulletproof, > but ugly to look at. > > I?ll be pulling the Petronix out of my recently purchased (and poorly > running) E Type over the weekend. > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bruce Steele > *Sent:* Thursday, November 2, 2017 5:55 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Pertronix question > > Well, after experiencing what seems to be ?condenser misfiring? on my > way back from Russ Thompson?s shop, I?m thinking I may end my stubborn > holdout and convert to Pertronix.? I?ve a few questions: > > 1. What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II? > 1. Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II? > 2. Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound > plug wires, or do you replace the cap as well? > 3. Sources for caps and wires?? I?m assuming the Pertronix cap in > the Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list > and will not fit a DM6 distributor.? Nor do they show Cobalt > wires for a 6 cylinder. > 2. Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well? > 3. The connection looks straight forward?red to coil (+), black to > coil (?) while retaining the white and white/black connections > back into the harness.? Obviously the while/black from coil (?) to > the distributor is removed. > 4. Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A.? Is this > applicable to the DM6? > 5. Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead > post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly > secured to a hole in the housing with nuts.? I?m assuming I have > to remove the points plate to gain access, correct? > > Thanks in advance for the input. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Nov 3 11:48:52 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 10:48:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Victoria/Vancouver BC visit Hello, My wife and I will be visiting Victoria Nov, 20-23 and Vancouver Nov 23-25. Any Car or train stuff to check out? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From baggsr at embarqmail.com Fri Nov 3 11:55:55 2017 From: baggsr at embarqmail.com (ROBERT BAGGS) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 13:55:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Tires, redux Safety first.? T radition, or what seems to be evolving as tradition, given the non-radial tires that the early cars had, should be last. ----- Original Message ----- From: editorgary at aol.com To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, November 3, 2017 8:03:24 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires, redux Thanks; We don't see the Avon bias-ply here. All of the 165/80R15s are pretty traditional in appearance, with the branded ones (Pirelli, Michelin, and Vredesteins) preferred. I just want to get away from the argument that 185s should be fitted. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: editorgary ; Healeys, Forum Sent: Fri, Nov 3, 2017 12:34 am Subject: AW: Tires, redux Hi Gary, to answer your qustion. Here in the UK at National Concours the factory fitted tyres are the ones we prefer to see on a concours car. This means for Big Healeys it is the tyre size 590/15 in cross ply. Up to last year the original DUNLOP RS5 tyre in 590/15 was still available and was the prefered tyre. Unfortunately GOODYEAR/DUNLOP ceased production.. Now we still have the AVON tyre in 590/15, which is from a concours point of view the prefered tyre for Big Healeys in Concours. For the Sprites the 520//13 is also still available and prefered. All other sorts of tyres fitted at Concours will give a deduction. When radials are fitted like 165/80 15s or 175/80, 180/80, 185/80 they should have a period style and not modern thread pattern. Deductions are given anyway, but depending on the look from a period point of view. 185/70s are the worst in the line. ? Josef Eckert National Concours Secretary Austin-Healey Club UK ? ? ? -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tires, redux Datum: 2017-11-03T00:43:42+0100 Von: " editorgary at aol.com " < editorgary at aol.com > An: " healeys at autox.team.net " < healeys at autox.team.net > ? ? ? We're updating the Inspection Policies and Restoration Guidelines for the Austin-Healey Concours Registry and are considering changing the policies regarding tires to indicate that currently available 165/80R15s are the preferred size and style of tires, with no consideration of brand. We are also becoming stricter about insisting that cars presented for inspection must have five tires of matching size and brand that are all less than 10 years old. We've found that the preferred tires are readily available from Tire Rack, Coker Tire and other sources in that size, as Pirelli Cinturatos, Michelin XZX, and several generic brands (such as Classic), all of which are safe for long-distance touring and highway cruising. I thought I would ask if people with concerns about restorations to vintage appearance have any questions or suggestions to offer? G. ? Gary Anderson Los Altos, California ? ? ? ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Nov 3 13:29:27 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 15:29:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires, redux References: <15f7e9f2f43-c13-1de6@webjas-vad193.srv.aolmail.net> Kees I think you have jumped to a conclusion based on the information presented. Gary did only mention the radial tire option which most of this thread was about. I would be very surprised if the concours guideline suggests radial tires over non radial tires as almost the entire range of Austin Healey?s were shipped from the factory with Bias-Ply tires. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Oudesluys Sent: Friday, November 3, 2017 1:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires, redux Very strange. So the original tyre size 590/15 (cross ply) is not preferred and will lead to a points reduction? These X-plies are still available new. Also any proper fitting radial tyre with the same diameter should be accepted although points can arguably be deducted as none of the cars were originally fitted with radial tyres except for the later series where they would at least have been an option if not original fitment. It is however a good idea to impose a limit for the date of manufacture because of safety. Because it is not always easy or practical to get (fake?) Cinturato's or XZX's, thread pattern or brand should not have an influence. In most cases these sizes would have a more or less classic looking thread pattern anyway. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-11-2017 om 22:24 schreef editorgary at aol.com: We're updating the Inspection Policies and Restoration Guidelines for the Austin-Healey Concours Registry and are considering changing the policies regarding tires to indicate that currently available 165/80R15s are the preferred size and style of tires, with no consideration of brand. We are also becoming stricter about insisting that cars presented for inspection must have five tires of matching size and brand that are all less than 10 years old. We've found that the preferred tires are readily available from Tire Rack, Coker Tire and other sources in that size, as Pirelli Cinturatos, Michelin XZX, and several generic brands (such as Classic), all of which are safe for long-distance touring and highway cruising. I thought I would ask if people with concerns about restorations to vintage appearance have any questions or suggestions to offer? G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Fri Nov 3 13:59:54 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 20:59:54 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] Tires, redux References: <15f82687302-c0f-2aaf@webjas-vae221.srv.aolmail.net> <1251738614.22981815.1509731755340.JavaMail.root@embarqmail.com> Here in Germany we have no general speed limits on motorways and I have crossplys on 3 of my vintage cars and never had a problem. Crossplies can be as save as radials. Its the driver who is responsible for save driving. Its a different driving with crossplies, but that?s what its all about with driving a classic car. I even haven?t heart of any tyre problem with older tyres as long as they are in good shape and do not have too many hairline cracks.. On my vintage Mercedes I have Michelin radials fitted which are definitely older than 10 years, but they still look good and I see no reason to take them off. I accept a longer stopping distance than with new tyres, but its an old car and there are many shortages you have to accept compared to a new modern one. Josef Eckert Konigswinte/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Tires, redux Datum: 2017-11-03T18:56:00+0100 Von: "ROBERT BAGGS" An: "editorgary at aol.com" Safety first. Tradition, or what seems to be evolving as tradition, given the non-radial tires that the early cars had, should be last. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: editorgary at aol.com To: josef-eckert at t-online.de, Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, November 3, 2017 8:03:24 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires, redux Thanks; We don't see the Avon bias-ply here. All of the 165/80R15s are pretty traditional in appearance, with the branded ones (Pirelli, Michelin, and Vredesteins) preferred. I just want to get away from the argument that 185s should be fitted. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: editorgary ; Healeys, Forum Sent: Fri, Nov 3, 2017 12:34 am Subject: AW: Tires, redux Hi Gary, to answer your qustion. Here in the UK at National Concours the factory fitted tyres are the ones we prefer to see on a concours car. This means for Big Healeys it is the tyre size 590/15 in cross ply. Up to last year the original DUNLOP RS5 tyre in 590/15 was still available and was the prefered tyre. Unfortunately GOODYEAR/DUNLOP ceased production.. Now we still have the AVON tyre in 590/15, which is from a concours point of view the prefered tyre for Big Healeys in Concours. For the Sprites the 520//13 is also still available and prefered. All other sorts of tyres fitted at Concours will give a deduction. When radials are fitted like 165/80 15s or 175/80, 180/80, 185/80 they should have a period style and not modern thread pattern. Deductions are given anyway, but depending on the look from a period point of view. 185/70s are the worst in the line. Josef Eckert National Concours Secretary Austin-Healey Club UK -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tires, redux Datum: 2017-11-03T00:43:42+0100 We're updating the Inspection Policies and Restoration Guidelines for the Austin-Healey Concours Registry and are considering changing the policies regarding tires to indicate that currently available 165/80R15s are the preferred size and style of tires, with no consideration of brand. We are also becoming stricter about insisting that cars presented for inspection must have five tires of matching size and brand that are all less than 10 years old. We've found that the preferred tires are readily available from Tire Rack, Coker Tire and other sources in that size, as Pirelli Cinturatos, Michelin XZX, and several generic brands (such as Classic), all of which are safe for long-distance touring and highway cruising. I thought I would ask if people with concerns about restorations to vintage appearance have any questions or suggestions to offer? G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/baggsr at embarqmail.com ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Fri Nov 3 14:45:06 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 16:45:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires, redux I can't stress enough that tires can look just fine and still be delaminating between the tread and sidewall and the first warning you will get is a very brief period when you feel as if you're riding in one of those kiddy toys with the uneven wheels. Then the tire goes bang as the tube breaks through the opening between the tire and tread and your only hope is that you're already going slow enough so that you can countersteer to hold the car straight until you get to the side of the road. Having had it happen to me -- with some Pirelli Cinturators that looked just fine but were over 10 years old, and having known a friend of a friend who was killed in his 1954 Jensen because he was on a highway at speed when it happened and he ricocheted off the guardrail and back into traffic. So, drive at your own risk, but it's a real cheap change-over, that is going to be inevitable sooner or later, to put new tires on the car every 10 years. And I raced on cross-plies on my MGA for many years and loved the gradual release allowing me to drift corners when necessary. But those were replaced every five race weekends or so, at a cost of $1,000 a set, as the tread wore down -- just an expense of racing. Unfortunately, the only bias-plies that are available in 590-15s in this country are made in BFGoodrich molds and have a distinctly American appearance. G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: ROBERT BAGGS ; editorgary Cc: Healeys Sent: Fri, Nov 3, 2017 1:00 pm Subject: AW: Tires, redux Here in Germany we have no general speed limits on motorways and I have crossplys on 3 of my vintage cars and never had a problem. Crossplies can be as save as radials. Its the driver who is responsible for save driving. Its a different driving with crossplies, but that?s what its all about with driving a classic car. I even haven?t heart of any tyre problem with older tyres as long as they are in good shape and do not have too many hairline cracks.. On my vintage Mercedes I have Michelin radials fitted which are definitely older than 10 years, but they still look good and I see no reason to take them off. I accept a longer stopping distance than with new tyres, but its an old car and there are many shortages you have to accept compared to a new modern one. Josef Eckert Konigswinte/Germany -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Fri Nov 3 15:06:28 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 22:06:28 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] Tires, redux References: <1509739194618.6260703.4597217f2a205f7fa9e5a06f6dbe0bfae5efdbce@spica.telekom.de> <15f83a144e8-c09-4cad@webjas-vac120.srv.aolmail.net> Gary, Here in Germany and other countries we are not forced by law to put on new tyres when the ones on the car are older than ten years, as long as they look fine. Even MOT doesn?t force us. Why should we force Concours contenders to fit new tyres when the law allows older tyres? For the cross or biasply tyres. Here in Europe we do not have really good remanufacturers for shock absorbers. So many here send their shocks to a company in the USA for remanufacturing. Why it shouldn?t be possible for US Healey owners to let their tyres ship from Europe. Tyre suppliers here have AVON 590/15s in stock and ship to the US. I order my body panels from Kilmartin in Australia and do not buy them from other sources here in Europe. We have an worldwide market these days. So why should I buy second source quality when I can get first. So I see no reason to allow non original tyre sizes without deduction for a car in Concours. You are so painstaking correct in your Concours?s with otheer things like underfelts, bolt heads, etc., but here you are extremely open. Josef Eckert -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: Tires, redux Datum: 2017-11-03T21:45:17+0100 Von: "editorgary at aol.com" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "baggsr at embarqmail.com" I can't stress enough that tires can look just fine and still be delaminating between the tread and sidewall and the first warning you will get is a very brief period when you feel as if you're riding in one of those kiddy toys with the uneven wheels. Then the tire goes bang as the tube breaks through the opening between the tire and tread and your only hope is that you're already going slow enough so that you can countersteer to hold the car straight until you get to the side of the road. Having had it happen to me -- with some Pirelli Cinturators that looked just fine but were over 10 years old, and having known a friend of a friend who was killed in his 1954 Jensen because he was on a highway at speed when it happened and he ricocheted off the guardrail and back into traffic. So, drive at your own risk, but it's a real cheap change-over, that is going to be inevitable sooner or later, to put new tires on the car every 10 years. And I raced on cross-plies on my MGA for many years and loved the gradual release allowing me to drift corners when necessary. But those were replaced every five race weekends or so, at a cost of $1,000 a set, as the tread wore down -- just an expense of racing. Unfortunately, the only bias-plies that are available in 590-15s in this country are made in BFGoodrich molds and have a distinctly American appearance. G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: ROBERT BAGGS ; editorgary Cc: Healeys Sent: Fri, Nov 3, 2017 1:00 pm Subject: AW: Tires, redux Here in Germany we have no general speed limits on motorways and I have crossplys on 3 of my vintage cars and never had a problem. Crossplies can be as save as radials. Its the driver who is responsible for save driving. Its a different driving with crossplies, but that?s what its all about with driving a classic car. I even haven?t heart of any tyre problem with older tyres as long as they are in good shape and do not have too many hairline cracks.. On my vintage Mercedes I have Michelin radials fitted which are definitely older than 10 years, but they still look good and I see no reason to take them off. I accept a longer stopping distance than with new tyres, but its an old car and there are many shortages you have to accept compared to a new modern one. Josef Eckert Konigswinte/Germany ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Nov 3 15:25:15 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 17:25:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question References: <0c1c01d3543e$5b9a22d0$12ce6870$@roadrunner.com> <006901d35453$dbad1ad0$93075070$@cox.net> After years with fiddling with the timing, etc. I put a Pertronix unit into my BN6. All I had to do was set the timing. I drove with it for over 10 years until I sold the car and had absolutely no problems. I did notice that the engine was a lot more peppy after the installation as I got a hotter and truer spark. Perhaps the naysayers on this list did not follow the instructions properly? I did on a lark, called the Pertronix people (I didn't need help) and found that they patiently answered my questions validating that I had made a good purchase of their product. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, November 03, 2017 1:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix question 'Petronix sucks' Well, that ends this conversation (but doesn't answer the OP's inquiry). With irrefutable data and proof such as this, one should not touch them with the proverbial 10ft pole. bs On 11/2/2017 8:28 PM, Jonas Payne wrote: Don't do it. Petronix sucks. I buy condensers by the gross. The bad ones are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a decade. They are cheap and easy to replace. Once I started using Autozone Coils instead of Bosch and Lucas, and once you have a "right" condenser, it's as simple as adjusting the point gap every spring and forgetting about it. If you really must, MSD setup with the disc and brain are bulletproof, but ugly to look at. I'll be pulling the Petronix out of my recently purchased (and poorly running) E Type over the weekend. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 5:55 PM Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question Well, after experiencing what seems to be "condenser misfiring" on my way back from Russ Thompson's shop, I'm thinking I may end my stubborn holdout and convert to Pertronix. I've a few questions: 1. What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II? a. Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II? b. Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug wires, or do you replace the cap as well? c. Sources for caps and wires? I'm assuming the Pertronix cap in the Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not fit a DM6 distributor. Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder. 2. Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well? 3. The connection looks straight forward-red to coil (+), black to coil (-) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into the harness. Obviously the while/black from coil (-) to the distributor is removed. 4. Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A. Is this applicable to the DM6? 5. Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly secured to a hole in the housing with nuts. I'm assuming I have to remove the points plate to gain access, correct? Thanks in advance for the input. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Fri Nov 3 16:09:29 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 18:09:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Re Tires in Concours; Just to clarify One comment suggested misreading -- In the new standards, we accept both bias-ply and radial tires for concours, without giving either one point differences, without deduction as long as they are the correct original narrow-width thread with tall sidewall size for the car -- 5.90x15 and 165x15. We have a standard deduction for any other tire size, we deduct for a non-matching spare, and we do not inspect cars with tires over 10 years old. The reasoning is that safety is paramount -- old tires can delaminate without warning, regardless of appearance, with life-threatening consequences -- and beyond that we prefer to see concours cars with appearance as close to original as possible with any part where the original brand is no longer available, and we do believe that all new tires from standard sources in the original sizes are safe and reliable for use in long-distance touring at highway speeds. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Fri Nov 3 22:59:54 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 00:59:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Output fuel fitting on MOSS tank is same as original only problem now is damage to tank from some shipping mishap Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Wendland To: tld6008 at mchsi.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 03 Nov 2017 00:33:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Tim, He answered your question about the pickup screen but not about the flared end on the "discharge fitting" or "outlet fitting" Larry '67BJ8. -----Original Message----- From: Tim Davis BN7 To: Tim Davis BN7 Cc: 'healeys' Sent: Thu, Nov 2, 2017 5:19 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Tank FYI, Just heard back from Moss Motors, reply below Hello Tim. ? My name is Blaine Graham. I?m part of the Moss Technical Support Team. ? Thanks for a great question. ? I got one of these from the warehouse. With the baffles, I was blind. Then, common sense got a hold of me. This tank is made for us. I got a set of the drawings and looked. Bingo! ? Yes. There is an inlet filter at the bottom of the sump tube. ? Mystery solved. ? Have a safe weekend. ? BPG ? Blaine Graham Tech Services Moss Motors, LTD. 805.679.7237 grahamb at mossmotors.com Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Davis BN7 To: 'healeys' Sent: Thu, 02 Nov 2017 12:04:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Tank Anyone know if the new steel tank from Moss has a screen or such on the pick-up tube? After all the fuss getting my odd ball tank ready to install I find the tank discharge fitting has no bevel to match the fuel line. It has the correct thread but the end is just square cut. Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From flyhihealey at gmail.com Sat Nov 4 03:20:55 2017 From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 05:20:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question References: <0c1c01d3543e$5b9a22d0$12ce6870$@roadrunner.com> <006901d35453$dbad1ad0$93075070$@cox.net> <000001d354ea$3f8c5c00$bea51400$@verizon.net> *Ditto +1....Installed Pertronix in 2002 and 36,000 miles ago. Simply marvelous!* * WD 67 BJ8* On Fri, Nov 3, 2017 at 5:25 PM, John Sims wrote: > After years with fiddling with the timing, etc. I put a Pertronix unit > into my BN6. All I had to do was set the timing. I drove with it for over > 10 years until I sold the car and had absolutely no problems. I did notice > that the engine was a lot more peppy after the installation as I got a > hotter and truer spark. Perhaps the naysayers on this list did not follow > the instructions properly? I did on a lark, called the Pertronix people (I > didn?t need help) and found that they patiently answered my questions > validating that I had made a good purchase of their product. > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Friday, November 03, 2017 1:40 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Pertronix question > > > > 'Petronix sucks' > > > > Well, that ends this conversation (but doesn't answer the OP's inquiry). With irrefutable data and proof such as this, one should not touch them with the proverbial 10ft pole. > > > > bs > > > > On 11/2/2017 8:28 PM, Jonas Payne wrote: > > Don?t do it. Petronix sucks. I buy condensers by the gross. The bad > ones are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a decade. > They are cheap and easy to replace. > > > > Once I started using Autozone Coils instead of Bosch and Lucas, and once > you have a ?right? condenser, it?s as simple as adjusting the point gap > every spring and forgetting about it. > > > > If you really must, MSD setup with the disc and brain are bulletproof, but > ugly to look at. > > > > I?ll be pulling the Petronix out of my recently purchased (and poorly > running) E Type over the weekend. > > > > Jonas Payne > > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > > 702.882.6711 <(702)%20882-6711> > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Bruce Steele > *Sent:* Thursday, November 2, 2017 5:55 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Pertronix question > > > > Well, after experiencing what seems to be ?condenser misfiring? on my way > back from Russ Thompson?s shop, I?m thinking I may end my stubborn holdout > and convert to Pertronix. I?ve a few questions: > > 1. What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II? > > > 1. Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II? > 2. Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug > wires, or do you replace the cap as well? > 3. Sources for caps and wires? I?m assuming the Pertronix cap in > the Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not > fit a DM6 distributor. Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder. > > > 1. Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well? > 2. The connection looks straight forward?red to coil (+), black to > coil (?) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into > the harness. Obviously the while/black from coil (?) to the distributor is > removed. > 3. Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A. Is this > applicable to the DM6? > 4. Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead > post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly secured > to a hole in the housing with nuts. I?m assuming I have to remove the > points plate to gain access, correct? > > > > Thanks in advance for the input. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/flyhihealey at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Sat Nov 4 07:07:25 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randall Hicks) Date: Sat, 04 Nov 2017 09:07:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Re Tires in Concours; Just to clarify References: <15f83ee8a74-c0f-5391@webjas-vac153.srv.aolmail.net> With all due respect to Gary, and he has done an enormous amount of research on the subject of tires, the Austin-Healey Concours Registry Committee is considering changing its Policies and Guidelines as Gary has stated, BUT with a 15 year cut off on tires, not 10 as he has stated. We expect to finalize this change in the next couple days and I will post to the List the new policy. Randy Hicks Chairman, Austin-Healey Concours Registry > On Nov 3, 2017, at 6:09 PM, editorgary at aol.com wrote: > > One comment suggested misreading -- In the new standards, we accept both bias-ply and radial tires for concours, without giving either one point differences, without deduction as long as they are the correct original narrow-width thread with tall sidewall size for the car -- 5.90x15 and 165x15. We have a standard deduction for any other tire size, we deduct for a non-matching spare, and we do not inspect cars with tires over 10 years old. > > The reasoning is that safety is paramount -- old tires can delaminate without warning, regardless of appearance, with life-threatening consequences -- and beyond that we prefer to see concours cars with appearance as close to original as possible with any part where the original brand is no longer available, and we do believe that all new tires from standard sources in the original sizes are safe and reliable for use in long-distance touring at highway speeds. > > Gary Anderson > Los Altos, California > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sat Nov 4 09:51:25 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 15:51:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Re Tires in Concours; Just to clarify References: <15f83ee8a74-c0f-5391@webjas-vac153.srv.aolmail.net>, I am quite sure most on this List have read about tire safety but here is an interesting article that perhaps explains in a little more details about tire safety. https://www.edmunds.com/car-care/how-old-and-dangerous-are-your-tires.html [https://media.ed.edmunds-media.com/non-make/carcare/carcare_1027114_300.jpg] How Old - and Dangerous - Are Your Tires? - Edmunds www.edmunds.com For years people have relied on a tire's tread depth to determine its condition. But tire age is just as important. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Randall Hicks Sent: November 4, 2017 1:07 PM To: editorgary at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Re Tires in Concours; Just to clarify With all due respect to Gary, and he has done an enormous amount of research on the subject of tires, the Austin-Healey Concours Registry Committee is considering changing its Policies and Guidelines as Gary has stated, BUT with a 15 year cut off on tires, not 10 as he has stated. We expect to finalize this change in the next couple days and I will post to the List the new policy. Randy Hicks Chairman, Austin-Healey Concours Registry One comment suggested misreading -- In the new standards, we accept both bias-ply and radial tires for concours, without giving either one point differences, without deduction as long as they are the correct original narrow-width thread with tall sidewall size for the car -- 5.90x15 and 165x15. We have a standard deduction for any other tire size, we deduct for a non-matching spare, and we do not inspect cars with tires over 10 years old. The reasoning is that safety is paramount -- old tires can delaminate without warning, regardless of appearance, with life-threatening consequences -- and beyond that we prefer to see concours cars with appearance as close to original as possible with any part where the original brand is no longer available, and we do believe that all new tires from standard sources in the original sizes are safe and reliable for use in long-distance touring at highway speeds. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Sat Nov 4 10:29:47 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 12:29:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tire manufacturing dates Jean Caron posted a link to an article on Edmunds.com about tire age and safety. Reading it, I found a mistake in what I've written in several places regarding the date of a tire's manufacture. In fact, the date is the last four digits of the individual tire code that is molded into the sidewall of the, but the first two digits are the week of manufacture -- from 1 to 52 -- and the last two digits are the year of manufacture, starting with 00 for the year 2000. The unfortunate fact is that the date on many tires, especially in the earlier years, is on the inner sidewall, so the only way it may be visible is by jacking up the car or removing the tire. Or, (assuming that all five tires were brought at once, as they should be) you can look at your spare. G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Nov 4 10:30:18 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 12:30:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires, redux References: <15f7e9f2f43-c13-1de6@webjas-vad193.srv.aolmail.net> Shouldn't someone who has tracked down a set of original Road Speeds that they use only for display get some kind of credit for having a car more close to original standards? I know the original tires are still out there and some people have sets they only use for judging. Here's a pic of one I took recently. If the idea is to present the car as manufactured, why would an exception be made just because the original part is now hard to find? I agree folks shouldn't be driving on old tires, but a second set could always be shipped to the judging location to be shown with the car. How about taking no deduction for the original tires, then taking increasing deductions for non-original sizes, radials, etc.? BTW, I have no dog in this fight nor a secret cache of Road Speeds, but if something is unavailable or hard to get, it seems to me that those that have the original should not be dragged down to the level of everyone else. It's like rubber floor covering for Bugeyes that is basically unobtanium. Shouldn't a car like Biff's Ole Grey (I know, it's a Mk II) with the factory mats be scored higher than a car with cut pile rugs? Best regards, Rick Neville On Thu, Nov 2, 2017 at 5:24 PM, wrote: > We're updating the Inspection Policies and Restoration Guidelines for the > Austin-Healey Concours Registry and are considering changing the policies > regarding tires to indicate that currently available 165/80R15s are the > preferred size and style of tires, with no consideration of brand. We are > also becoming stricter about insisting that cars presented for inspection > must have five tires of matching size and brand that are all less than 10 > years old. We've found that the preferred tires are readily available from > Tire Rack, Coker Tire and other sources in that size, as Pirelli > Cinturatos, Michelin XZX, and several generic brands (such as Classic), all > of which are safe for long-distance touring and highway cruising. > > I thought I would ask if people with concerns about restorations to > vintage appearance have any questions or suggestions to offer? > > G. > > *Gary Anderson* > Los Altos, California > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0446.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2240434 bytes Desc: not available URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sat Nov 4 11:46:21 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 13:46:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question This is not a strategy that makes any sense to me. I understand how you know if you installed a bad one but how do you know if you installed one that will last a week or last a decade? I assume you do not ever drive very far from home. Gary Hodson I buy condensers by the gross. The bad ones are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a decade. They are cheap and easy to replace. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Sat Nov 4 13:20:01 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 04 Nov 2017 15:20:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tire manufacturing dates References: <15f87dde558-c0e-80d1@webjas-vaa100.srv.aolmail.net> Doesn?t it depend on how you mount the tire whether the date code is on the inside or outside. ? Randy > On Nov 4, 2017, at 12:29 PM, editorgary at aol.com wrote: > > The unfortunate fact is that the date on many tires, especially in the earlier years, is on the inner sidewall, so the only way it may be visible is by jacking up the car or removing the tire. Or, (assuming that all five tires were brought at once, as they should be) you can look at your spare. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Sat Nov 4 18:25:54 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 20:25:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Turn signals References: I am stumped. I ordered 1157 replacement LED bulbs and flasher from Super Bright. I changed out the turn signal bulbs on my BJ8 today and have a problem I cannot figure out. Before I started, I checked that everything was working properly, turn signals, brake lights and running lights. All the way around, right, left and running lights were in order. I replaced the 4 standard bulbs with the LED bulbs (1157 replacements) and the flasher can with the replacement. Running lights work properly, left turn signal, front and rear work properly. Then I tried the right turn signal. The right rear works properly but both front lights blink in unison. I rotated the front bulbs but no change, both blink in unison when using the right turn signal. I removed the 4 replacement bulbs and flasher and reinstalled everything as original. Everything works properly. I reinstalled the LED bulbs and flasher and again, both front bulbs blink with the right turn signal as before. I am stumped! What am I missing? As always, any help is appreciated! Fred 66BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Sat Nov 4 19:09:54 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 21:09:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. Goldie is going on sale. Any over/under bets? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5049449/Austin-Healey-24-carat-gold-plating-set-auction.html Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Sat Nov 4 20:09:59 2017 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 22:09:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting References: Healey-blue BJ7 or BJ8 with a blue top in New London, NH this morning.... anyone on the list? Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Nov 4 22:08:07 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 21:08:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tire manufacturing dates References: <15f87dde558-c0e-80d1@webjas-vaa100.srv.aolmail.net> <23324E9B-81BC-40AE-8FCD-3570EE071492@me.com> Some tires are manufactured with an outside face and an inside one. There is different information on each one. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: Saturday, November 4, 2017 12:20 PM To: Gary Anderson Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tire manufacturing dates Doesn?t it depend on how you mount the tire whether the date code is on the inside or outside. ? Randy On Nov 4, 2017, at 12:29 PM, editorgary at aol.com wrote: The unfortunate fact is that the date on many tires, especially in the earlier years, is on the inner sidewall, so the only way it may be visible is by jacking up the car or removing the tire. Or, (assuming that all five tires were brought at once, as they should be) you can look at your spare. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sat Nov 4 22:24:19 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 21:24:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Turn signals References: Bad ground Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 4, 2017, at 5:25 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > > I am stumped. I ordered 1157 replacement LED bulbs and flasher from Super Bright. I changed out the turn signal bulbs on my BJ8 today and have a problem I cannot figure out. > Before I started, I checked that everything was working properly, turn signals, brake lights and running lights. All the way around, right, left and running lights were in order. > I replaced the 4 standard bulbs with the LED bulbs (1157 replacements) and the flasher can with the replacement. Running lights work properly, left turn signal, front and rear work properly. Then I tried the right turn signal. The right rear works properly but both front lights blink in unison. I rotated the front bulbs but no change, both blink in unison when using the right turn signal. > I removed the 4 replacement bulbs and flasher and reinstalled everything as original. Everything works properly. > I reinstalled the LED bulbs and flasher and again, both front bulbs blink with the right turn signal as before. > I am stumped! What am I missing? > As always, any help is appreciated! > > Fred > 66BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Nov 4 22:25:23 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2017 21:25:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Turn signals References: Have you tried the old bulbs with the new flasher? Might be the new flasher. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Nov 4, 2017 8:18 PM, "Fred Wescoe" wrote: > I am stumped. I ordered 1157 replacement LED bulbs and flasher from Super > Bright. I changed out the turn signal bulbs on my BJ8 today and have a > problem I cannot figure out. > Before I started, I checked that everything was working properly, turn > signals, brake lights and running lights. All the way around, right, left > and running lights were in order. > I replaced the 4 standard bulbs with the LED bulbs (1157 replacements) and > the flasher can with the replacement. Running lights work properly, left > turn signal, front and rear work properly. Then I tried the right turn > signal. The right rear works properly but both front lights blink in > unison. I rotated the front bulbs but no change, both blink in unison when > using the right turn signal. > I removed the 4 replacement bulbs and flasher and reinstalled everything > as original. Everything works properly. > I reinstalled the LED bulbs and flasher and again, both front bulbs blink > with the right turn signal as before. > I am stumped! What am I missing? > As always, any help is appreciated! > > Fred > 66BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sat Nov 4 22:52:22 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2017 04:52:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. References: <15f89ba1560-c08-9cf8@webjas-vad080.srv.aolmail.net> That is a little more than half a million US, not happening. I predict that it will not reach more than half the estimate. You'd think that for that amount the front valance would have been fitted properly and the same goes for the bonnet grille. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of editorgary at aol.com Sent: November 5, 2017 1:09 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. Goldie is going on sale. Any over/under bets? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5049449/Austin-Healey-24-carat-gold-plating-set-auction.html Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dayton21 at comcast.net Sun Nov 5 01:59:58 2017 From: dayton21 at comcast.net (mitch) Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2017 02:59:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. References: <15f89ba1560-c08-9cf8@webjas-vad080.srv.aolmail.net> I agree with Jean Mitch Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jean Caron Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2017 2:53 AM To: editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. That is a little more than half a million US, not happening. I predict that it will not reach more than half the estimate. You'd think that for that amount the front valance would have been fitted properly and the same goes for the bonnet grille. Jean From: Healeys on behalf of editorgary at aol.com Sent: November 5, 2017 1:09 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. ? Goldie is going on sale. Any over/under bets? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5049449/Austin-Healey-24-carat-gold-plating-set-auction.html Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 9964791EC53A433094A966659DCFF4A1.png Type: image/png Size: 158 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Nov 5 01:15:42 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2017 09:15:42 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Turn signals References: Make bloody sure that all earth connections are prestine. LED bulbs are very sensitive to even the tiniest resistance in the earth circuit. Kees Oudesluijs Op 5-11-2017 om 1:25 schreef Fred Wescoe: > > I am stumped.? I ordered 1157 replacement LED bulbs and flasher from > Super Bright.? I changed out the turn signal bulbs on my BJ8 today and > have a problem I cannot figure out. > Before I started, I checked that everything was working properly, turn > signals, brake lights and running lights.? All the way around, right, > left and running lights were in order. > I replaced the 4 standard bulbs with the LED bulbs (1157 replacements) > and the flasher can with the replacement.? Running lights work > properly, left turn signal, front and rear work properly.? Then I > tried the right turn signal.? The right rear works properly but both > front lights blink in unison.? I rotated the front bulbs but no > change, both blink in unison when using the right turn signal. > I removed the 4 replacement bulbs and flasher and reinstalled > everything as original.? Everything works properly. > I reinstalled the LED bulbs and flasher and again, both front bulbs > blink with the right turn signal as before. > I am stumped! What am I missing? > As always, any help is appreciated! > > Fred > 66BJ8 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sun Nov 5 03:11:49 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2017 10:11:49 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. References: <15f89ba1560-c08-9cf8@webjas-vad080.srv.aolmail.net> Horrible. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of editorgary at aol.com Sent: 05 November 2017 01:10 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. Goldie is going on sale. Any over/under bets? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5049449/Austin-Healey-24-carat-gold-plating-set-auction.html Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Nov 5 04:28:01 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2017 22:28:01 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. References: <15f89ba1560-c08-9cf8@webjas-vad080.srv.aolmail.net> <003901d3561e$7ec82590$7c5870b0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Thanks Simon I thought I was the only person who thought it horrible. In fact I would use the word ?ugly?. Or am I calling the kettle black? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Sunday, 5 November 2017 9:12 PM To: editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. Horrible. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of editorgary at aol.com Sent: 05 November 2017 01:10 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. Goldie is going on sale. Any over/under bets? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5049449/Austin-Healey-24-carat-gold-plating-set-auction.html Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun Nov 5 05:35:54 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2017 07:35:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. References: <15f89ba1560-c08-9cf8@webjas-vad080.srv.aolmail.net> It's still available at Collins Bros. for a cool million: http://collinsbrosjeep.com/1958-austin-healey-100-6-goldie-roadster-chassis-no-bn62260/ Rick Neville On Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 12:52 AM, Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > That is a little more than half a million US, not happening. I predict > that it will not reach more than half the estimate. > > You'd think that for that amount the front valance would have been fitted > properly and the same goes for the bonnet grille. > > > Jean > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > editorgary at aol.com > *Sent:* November 5, 2017 1:09 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. > > Goldie is going on sale. Any over/under bets? > > http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5049449/Austin- > Healey-24-carat-gold-plating-set-auction.html > > *Gary Anderson* > Los Altos, California > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rivanahall at bellsouth.net Sun Nov 5 06:15:11 2017 From: rivanahall at bellsouth.net (Jim Patterson) Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2017 08:15:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Turn signals References: <5b93d471-49d1-f9c7-0b20-04d22e50385b@chello.nl> I had same trouble with my 67 BJ8. I assume you replaced the flasher. Also need to add resisters from Superbright. This solved my problem. I had sent an email to Superbright to include message that resisters were needed, but I guess they didn?t. Jim Patterson Sent from my iPad > On Nov 5, 2017, at 3:15 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > Make bloody sure that all earth connections are prestine. LED bulbs are very sensitive to even the tiniest resistance in the earth circuit. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 5-11-2017 om 1:25 schreef Fred Wescoe: >> I am stumped. I ordered 1157 replacement LED bulbs and flasher from Super Bright. I changed out the turn signal bulbs on my BJ8 today and have a problem I cannot figure out. >> Before I started, I checked that everything was working properly, turn signals, brake lights and running lights. All the way around, right, left and running lights were in order. >> I replaced the 4 standard bulbs with the LED bulbs (1157 replacements) and the flasher can with the replacement. Running lights work properly, left turn signal, front and rear work properly. Then I tried the right turn signal. The right rear works properly but both front lights blink in unison. I rotated the front bulbs but no change, both blink in unison when using the right turn signal. >> I removed the 4 replacement bulbs and flasher and reinstalled everything as original. Everything works properly. >> I reinstalled the LED bulbs and flasher and again, both front bulbs blink with the right turn signal as before. >> I am stumped! What am I missing? >> As always, any help is appreciated! >> >> Fred >> 66BJ8 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rivanahall at bellsouth.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sun Nov 5 12:32:16 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2017 14:32:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine rebuild I am beginning a complete 100 engine rebuild & am looking for advise. - I would like to build an engine that will produce as much power as is possible consistent with the following specifications: Fast road driving, not road racing. Premium fuel, not racing fuel. In the USA Approx. 91-92 octane rating. I think that results in about 9.5:compression. What compression ratio would you recommend? The engine will include: -an aluminum head -Carbs: twin H6's I also need a new cam recommendation & am considering either Denis Welch "#DW1 or #DW4 cam? Suggestions, please. Also, I would like to over bore the engine. Is there any reason to not bore it out to 89mm, other than that might not allow for any future over bore? What piston sources would you suggest for this application? Any related suggestions, recommendations or questions would be appreciated! Gary Hodson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun Nov 5 17:21:38 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2017 19:21:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. References: <15f89ba1560-c08-9cf8@webjas-vad080.srv.aolmail.net> <002e01d35629$25fc5ca0$71f515e0$@tpg.com.au> You have to admit it served its purpose, though, to attract attention to the Healey stand at Earls Court. It seemed to have been influenced by Lady Docker's Daimler limo "Golden Zebra" https://en.wikipedia. org/wiki/Docker_Daimlers. I saw this quote on Hemmings a few years ago from a woman professing to be a former owner of Goldie that I find interesting : "I dug out a photo and the registration is the car shown above.The information I have is based on the fellow who showed up at our Pub with a picture of the car in 1966/67 It was for sale and had been previously owned by Diana Dors, on the bonnet of the car when I had it was a gold horse & jockey which had been a gift to Diana from Lady Docker, I used the car every day & loved every minute of it. Unfortunately in 69ish the car was put in a garage in Reading on a SOR basis?.. it sold, but the garage owner did a flit with the proceeds? I would love to know where it went from there?." https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2013/03/06/ goldie-going-gone-one-off-austin-healey-show-car-offered-at-worldwide/ I don't know if this story is a complete fabrication, but there's something absolutely delicious about considering Ms. Dors (aka Britain's Marilyn Monroe) driving around in Goldie with a tasteless hood ornament gifted from the "colourful" Lady Docker. I've tried to find confirmation of the story but have had no luck. You also have to credit Bruce and Inan for the incredible work in restoring Goldie and preserving this bit of Healey history. It really does belong in the Healey Museum. Rick Neville On Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 6:28 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > Thanks Simon > > > > I thought I was the only person who thought it horrible. In fact I would > use the word ?ugly?. > > > > Or am I calling the kettle black? > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Simon > Lachlan > *Sent:* Sunday, 5 November 2017 9:12 PM > *To:* editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. > > > > Horrible. > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *editorgary at aol.com > *Sent:* 05 November 2017 01:10 > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. > > > > Goldie is going on sale. Any over/under bets? > > > > http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5049449/Austin-Heale > y-24-carat-gold-plating-set-auction.html > > > > *Gary Anderson* > Los Altos, California > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Nov 5 20:21:47 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2017 04:21:47 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating I've finally removed my geabox and done some preliminary inspection. Shifting forks are worn down some--not surprising in a 200K mile box--but all gears look to be in pristine condition. One thing I noticed is that the first motion shaft seems to wobble a bit, unlike the output shaft with turns freely but doesn't wobble much if at all (both large bearings appear to be in perfect condition). Should the rear of the first motion shaft fit snugly into the front of the output (main) shaft, or is a bit of play to be expected? I've thought perhaps the increased compression in the new engine might cause some 'buckling' in the first/output shafts--more than the sliding hub can restrain--so could this be the cause of jumping out of 4th gear? Also, DWR sells an uprated 3-4 sliding hub, which it claims eliminates the 'jumping out of gear problem,' so this issue is apparently not uncommon. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Mon Nov 6 14:22:42 2017 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2017 21:22:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine rebuild References: <15f8dab5370-c0b-cb1f@webjas-vac233.srv.aolmail.net> Gary, I just started my engine after about 2 years of rebuilding. Sounds great. I installed 88.5mm pistons from Denis Welch. They are sized precisely enough that the machinist just has to bore to the nominal size and they fit. They incorporate new tech metric piston rings to minimize blowby. So far they are performing as advertised. They also sell these pistons in 88mm and 89 mm. I think there is a lot of meat in the block and I've heard of people overboring them to 0.100" I also installed their performance head gasket which is a MLS (multiple layer steel) design. This is supposed to eliminate the typical leak at the number plate. I'm running an iron head which had never been cut and tested with no cracks. How many of those have you seen recently? I'm running an 8.5:1 compression ratio. I'm using a set of H6s that I built up from spare parts on a set of Denis Welch manifolds with their heat shield. For jetting I just went with the 100M spec OA6s. I plan to run it on a chassis dyno to check the mixture and adjust the tuning (Burned a couple pistons a while back so I'm very leery of pinging.) I've added a set of 2-3/4" velocity stacks and a Pipercross double air filter. This will just fit under the shroud but I've got to have a hatch fabbed into the shroud to allow for servicing. Fortunately I've found a good sheetmetal guy who is refurbishing the shroud as we speak. The camshaft has been ground by Iskendarian to their Z-99-E4 specification (I have been running this specification for over 10 years). It has durations of 260 degrees and a valve lift of .425". These numbers are a little more radical than the 100M/S grind, but it runs smoothly without a noticeable lope. I sent them a used camshaft and they ground it and heat treated it for $135 plus shipping. I bought Denis Welch's vernier cam sprocket and I've set the cam timing ahead 4 degrees to optimize low end torque. I am building the car for long distance touring and with 3.54:1 final drive gears I doubt if it will spend much time over 4,000 RPMs. Good luck with your project. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of warthodson at aol.com Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2017 7:32:16 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine rebuild I am beginning a complete 100 engine rebuild & am looking for advise. - I would like to build an engine that will produce as much power as is possible consistent with the following specifications: Fast road driving, not road racing. Premium fuel, not racing fuel. In the USA Approx. 91-92 octane rating. I think that results in about 9.5:compression. What compression ratio would you recommend? The engine will include: -an aluminum head -Carbs: twin H6's I also need a new cam recommendation & am considering either Denis Welch "#DW1 or #DW4 cam? Suggestions, please. Also, I would like to over bore the engine. Is there any reason to not bore it out to 89mm, other than that might not allow for any future over bore? What piston sources would you suggest for this application? Any related suggestions, recommendations or questions would be appreciated! Gary Hodson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Mon Nov 6 16:32:47 2017 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2017 18:32:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. I parked next to Goldie at Conclave 1986 in Cincinnati and Bruce had driven the car in from Maryland. Jim Werner -----Original Message----- From: HealeyRick To: healeys Sent: Mon, Nov 6, 2017 1:56 am Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. You have to admit it served its purpose, though, to attract attention to the Healey stand at Earls Court. It seemed to have been influenced by Lady Docker's Daimler limo "Golden Zebra" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Docker_Daimlers. I saw this quote on Hemmings a few years ago from a woman professing to be a former owner of Goldie that I find interesting : "I dug out a photo and the registration is the car shown above.The information I have is based on the fellow who showed up at our Pub with a picture of the car in 1966/67 It was for sale and had been previously owned by Diana Dors, on the bonnet of the car when I had it was a gold horse & jockey which had been a gift to Diana from Lady Docker, I used the car every day & loved every minute of it. Unfortunately in 69ish the car was put in a garage in Reading on a SOR basis?.. it sold, but the garage owner did a flit with the proceeds? I would love to know where it went from there?." https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2013/03/06/goldie-going-gone-one-off-austin-healey-show-car-offered-at-worldwide/ I don't know if this story is a complete fabrication, but there's something absolutely delicious about considering Ms. Dors (aka Britain's Marilyn Monroe) driving around in Goldie with a tasteless hood ornament gifted from the "colourful" Lady Docker. I've tried to find confirmation of the story but have had no luck. You also have to credit Bruce and Inan for the incredible work in restoring Goldie and preserving this bit of Healey history. It really does belong in the Healey Museum. Rick Neville On Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 6:28 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Thanks Simon I thought I was the only person who thought it horrible. In fact I would use the word ?ugly?. Or am I calling the kettle black? Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Sunday, 5 November 2017 9:12 PM To: editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. Horrible. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of editorgary at aol.com Sent: 05 November 2017 01:10 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. Goldie is going on sale. Any over/under bets? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5049449/Austin-Healey-24-carat-gold-plating-set-auction.html Gary Anderson Los Altos, California _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Nov 7 09:16:30 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2017 08:16:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine rebuild References: <15f8dab5370-c0b-cb1f@webjas-vac233.srv.aolmail.net> 100 crankshafts are known to break if driven much over 4K RPM (and possibly at lesser speeds).? If I was going to mod a 100 engine--and was filthy rich--I'd look into a billet crank or whatever treatment could improve the strength of these.? Some definitive info here: http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2017/01/03/austin-healey-100-crank-failures/ Bob On 11/6/2017 1:22 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > Gary, > > > I just started my engine after about 2 years of rebuilding. Sounds great. > > > I installed 88.5mm?pistons from Denis Welch. They are sized precisely > enough that the machinist just has to?bore to the nominal size and > they fit. They incorporate new tech metric piston rings to minimize > blowby. So far they are performing as advertised. They also sell these > pistons in?88mm and?89 mm. I think there is a lot of meat in the block > and I've heard of people overboring them to 0.100" > > > I also installed their performance head gasket which is a MLS > (multiple layer steel) design. This is supposed to eliminate the > typical leak at the number plate. > > > I'm running an iron head which had never been cut and?tested with no > cracks. How many of those have you seen recently? I'm running an 8.5:1 > compression ratio. > > > I'm using a set of H6s that I built up from spare parts on a set of > Denis Welch manifolds with their heat shield. For jetting I just went > with?the 100M spec OA6s. I plan to run it on a chassis dyno to check > the mixture and adjust the tuning (Burned a couple pistons a while > back so I'm very leery of pinging.)?I've added a set of 2-3/4" > velocity stacks and?a ?Pipercross double air filter. This > will?just?fit under the shroud but?I've?got?to have?a hatch fabbed > into the?shroud to allow for servicing. Fortunately I've found a good > sheetmetal guy who is refurbishing the shroud as we speak. > > > The camshaft has been ground by Iskendarian to their Z-99-E4 > specification (I have been running this specification for over 10 > years).?It has durations of 260 degrees and a valve lift of .425". > These numbers are a little more radical than the 100M/S grind, but it > runs smoothly without a noticeable lope. I sent them a used camshaft > and they ground it and heat treated it?for $135 plus shipping. I > bought Denis Welch's vernier cam sprocket and I've set the cam timing > ahead 4 degrees to optimize low end torque.?I am building the car for > long distance touring and with 3.54:1 final drive gears I?doubt if > it?will spend much time?over 4,000 RPMs. > > > Good luck with your project. > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > warthodson at aol.com > *Sent:* Sunday, November 5, 2017 7:32:16 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] 100 engine rebuild > I am beginning a complete 100 engine rebuild & am looking for advise. > - I would like to build an engine that will produce as much power as > is possible consistent with the following specifications: > Fast road driving, not road racing. Premium fuel, not racing fuel. In > the USA Approx. 91-92 octane rating. I think that results in?about > 9.5:compression. What compression ratio would you recommend? > The engine will include: > -an aluminum head > -Carbs: twin H6's > I also need a new cam recommendation & am considering either Denis > Welch "#DW1 or #DW4 cam??Suggestions, please. > Also, I would like to over bore?the engine. Is there any reason to not > bore it out to 89mm, other than that might not allow for any future > over bore? > What piston sources ?would?you suggest?for this application? > Any related suggestions, recommendations or questions would be > appreciated! > Gary Hodson > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Tue Nov 7 11:44:19 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2017 07:44:19 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com> Magnus K does a neat YT vid of rebuilding the centrechange box https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rz6b8ZWXfc There is a bit of play in the needle roller between the 1st and main shafts when the tip is not supported in the crankshaft pilot bearing. Earlier boxes have very long individual rollers so have less play whereas the later box has the caged bearing which is only half the length and so appears to have more play. One issue is that the factory did a rather average job of aligning the indent grooves in the shift rails with where they are supposed to be and the indent ball sits only partially in the groove so is very easy to pop back out of gear again. The recommended mod consists of grinding the groove slightly deeper and further forward (or backwards) so the ball sits correctly in it when the gear is engaged. You can check if your shift rails are ok by assembling everything and engaging each gear with a dti gauge on the corresponding indent ball (or a screwdriver). When the gear is engaged, the ball should drop to the lowest position and begin to rise up slightly if the gear is forced further into engagement. That indicates the ball is correctly in the indent. If the ball continues to fall as the gear is forced further into engagement, you have the same problem as I had in that the indent is simply in the wrong position. I tried several shift rails until I found the closest fitting ones then ground them with a dremel to finish. Beware of junk quality synchro rings... Andy. On 11/6/17, Bob Spidell wrote: > I've finally removed my geabox and done some preliminary inspection. > Shifting forks are worn down some--not surprising in a 200K mile box--but > all gears look to be in pristine condition. One thing I noticed is that the > first motion shaft seems to wobble a bit, unlike the output shaft with turns > freely but doesn't wobble much if at all (both large bearings appear to be > in perfect condition). Should the rear of the first motion shaft fit snugly > into the front of the output (main) shaft, or is a bit of play to be > expected? I've thought perhaps the increased compression in the new engine > might cause some 'buckling' in the first/output shafts--more than the > sliding hub can restrain--so could this be the cause of jumping out of 4th > gear? > > > Also, DWR sells an uprated 3-4 sliding hub, which it claims eliminates the > 'jumping out of gear problem,' so this issue is apparently not uncommon. > > > Bob > > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Nov 7 11:56:51 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2017 10:56:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com> Thanks, Andy. WRT the indents in the shift rails, I'm of the opinion that the shift rails and forks should not be depended on to hold the gearbox in gear.? When my BJ8 started popping out of 4th, I tried holding it in gear with the shift lever; the force required to do so was substantial, and it occurred to me that fighting a gearbox that wanted to go out of gear could result in a broken shift fork (which would have created a real inconvenience when 100 miles from any town and well out of cell phone range).? I plan on ordering DWR's improved 3/4 hub, which they claim helps alleviate the jumping out of gear problem, along with new synchros, shifting forks and layshaft. Curiously, when I pulled my input and main shafts apart, I don't recall the caged bearing set falling out.? I had noticed that the input shaft wobbled a bit more than I thought it should; if we neglected to put those bearings in at the last rebuild it's a wonder the box stayed in gear at all!? Also, the tip of my input shaft had more wear than expected, which could well have been from it wobbling a bit more due to the missing bearings. Bob On 11/7/2017 10:44 AM, A H List wrote: > Magnus K does a neat YT vid of rebuilding the centrechange box > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rz6b8ZWXfc > > There is a bit of play in the needle roller between the 1st and main > shafts when the tip is not supported in the crankshaft pilot bearing. > Earlier boxes have very long individual rollers so have less play > whereas the later box has the caged bearing which is only half the > length and so appears to have more play. > > One issue is that the factory did a rather average job of aligning the > indent grooves in the shift rails with where they are supposed to be > and the indent ball sits only partially in the groove so is very easy > to pop back out of gear again. The recommended mod consists of > grinding the groove slightly deeper and further forward (or backwards) > so the ball sits correctly in it when the gear is engaged. > > You can check if your shift rails are ok by assembling everything and > engaging each gear with a dti gauge on the corresponding indent ball > (or a screwdriver). When the gear is engaged, the ball should drop to > the lowest position and begin to rise up slightly if the gear is > forced further into engagement. That indicates the ball is correctly > in the indent. If the ball continues to fall as the gear is forced > further into engagement, you have the same problem as I had in that > the indent is simply in the wrong position. I tried several shift > rails until I found the closest fitting ones then ground them with a > dremel to finish. > > Beware of junk quality synchro rings... > > Andy. > > On 11/6/17, Bob Spidell wrote: >> I've finally removed my geabox and done some preliminary inspection. >> Shifting forks are worn down some--not surprising in a 200K mile box--but >> all gears look to be in pristine condition. One thing I noticed is that the >> first motion shaft seems to wobble a bit, unlike the output shaft with turns >> freely but doesn't wobble much if at all (both large bearings appear to be >> in perfect condition). Should the rear of the first motion shaft fit snugly >> into the front of the output (main) shaft, or is a bit of play to be >> expected? I've thought perhaps the increased compression in the new engine >> might cause some 'buckling' in the first/output shafts--more than the >> sliding hub can restrain--so could this be the cause of jumping out of 4th >> gear? >> >> >> Also, DWR sells an uprated 3-4 sliding hub, which it claims eliminates the >> 'jumping out of gear problem,' so this issue is apparently not uncommon. >> >> >> Bob >> >> >> -------------------------------- >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Tue Nov 7 12:56:09 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2017 08:56:09 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com> <7b308a32-d7d8-20c9-b716-7c90904c3604@comcast.net> Hi Bob, You are right, the detent won't hold the gear in if there are other issues such as worn or missing parts but they do sometimes drop out of gear on overrun or light loading just because the gear lever boot is a bit stiff. Later designs solved the issue by 'dovetailing' the shift collars which tends to pull the gear further into engagement under power and decel. This pic shows the very subtle machined dovetail where the teeth sit when engaged, maybe that is what DW has done. https://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/sleevesynchronizer_big23622611000-01_5351.jpg Andy. On 11/8/17, Bob Spidell wrote: > Thanks, Andy. > > WRT the indents in the shift rails, I'm of the opinion that the shift > rails and forks should not be depended on to hold the gearbox in gear. > When my BJ8 started popping out of 4th, I tried holding it in gear with > the shift lever; the force required to do so was substantial, and it > occurred to me that fighting a gearbox that wanted to go out of gear > could result in a broken shift fork (which would have created a real > inconvenience when 100 miles from any town and well out of cell phone > range). I plan on ordering DWR's improved 3/4 hub, which they claim > helps alleviate the jumping out of gear problem, along with new > synchros, shifting forks and layshaft. > > Curiously, when I pulled my input and main shafts apart, I don't recall > the caged bearing set falling out. I had noticed that the input shaft > wobbled a bit more than I thought it should; if we neglected to put > those bearings in at the last rebuild it's a wonder the box stayed in > gear at all! Also, the tip of my input shaft had more wear than > expected, which could well have been from it wobbling a bit more due to > the missing bearings. > > Bob > From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Nov 7 13:24:17 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2017 12:24:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com> <7b308a32-d7d8-20c9-b716-7c90904c3604@comcast.net> The Healey hub looks a little different, with 3 'notches' where the synchro ring 'ears' fit, and there is an inner groove cut in all the teeth, presumably where the detent balls reside. Curiously, two of the teeth are 'sloped'--for lack of a better word--one on each side, and we can't figure out why.? Our best guess is that the slope relieves some of the pressure from the detent balls, making it a bit easier to move the slider in and out of gear (which, of course, would contribute to my problem).? I'd post a photo, but the car is at my folks' house and I won't get back down there until next week. Thanks again for the help. Bob On 11/7/2017 11:56 AM, A H List wrote: > Hi Bob, > > You are right, the detent won't hold the gear in if there are other > issues such as worn or missing parts but they do sometimes drop out of > gear on overrun or light loading just because the gear lever boot is a > bit stiff. Later designs solved the issue by 'dovetailing' the shift > collars which tends to pull the gear further into engagement under > power and decel. This pic shows the very subtle machined dovetail > where the teeth sit when engaged, maybe that is what DW has done. > https://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/sleevesynchronizer_big23622611000-01_5351.jpg > > Andy. > > On 11/8/17, Bob Spidell wrote: >> Thanks, Andy. >> >> WRT the indents in the shift rails, I'm of the opinion that the shift >> rails and forks should not be depended on to hold the gearbox in gear. >> When my BJ8 started popping out of 4th, I tried holding it in gear with >> the shift lever; the force required to do so was substantial, and it >> occurred to me that fighting a gearbox that wanted to go out of gear >> could result in a broken shift fork (which would have created a real >> inconvenience when 100 miles from any town and well out of cell phone >> range). I plan on ordering DWR's improved 3/4 hub, which they claim >> helps alleviate the jumping out of gear problem, along with new >> synchros, shifting forks and layshaft. >> >> Curiously, when I pulled my input and main shafts apart, I don't recall >> the caged bearing set falling out. I had noticed that the input shaft >> wobbled a bit more than I thought it should; if we neglected to put >> those bearings in at the last rebuild it's a wonder the box stayed in >> gear at all! Also, the tip of my input shaft had more wear than >> expected, which could well have been from it wobbling a bit more due to >> the missing bearings. >> >> Bob >> From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Nov 7 13:51:58 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2017 13:51:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com> <7b308a32-d7d8-20c9-b716-7c90904c3604@comcast.net> ....as a general finding in my experience it is excessive front to rear thrust in the main shaft. dp On 11/7/2017 11:56 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Thanks, Andy. > > WRT the indents in the shift rails, I'm of the opinion that the shift > rails and forks should not be depended on to hold the gearbox in > gear.? When my BJ8 started popping out of 4th, I tried holding it in > gear with the shift lever; the force required to do so was > substantial, and it occurred to me that fighting a gearbox that wanted > to go out of gear could result in a broken shift fork (which would > have created a real inconvenience when 100 miles from any town and > well out of cell phone range).? I plan on ordering DWR's improved 3/4 > hub, which they claim helps alleviate the jumping out of gear problem, > along with new synchros, shifting forks and layshaft. > > Curiously, when I pulled my input and main shafts apart, I don't > recall the caged bearing set falling out.? I had noticed that the > input shaft wobbled a bit more than I thought it should; if we > neglected to put those bearings in at the last rebuild it's a wonder > the box stayed in gear at all!? Also, the tip of my input shaft had > more wear than expected, which could well have been from it wobbling a > bit more due to the missing bearings. > > Bob > > > On 11/7/2017 10:44 AM, A H List wrote: >> Magnus K does a neat YT vid of rebuilding the centrechange box >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rz6b8ZWXfc >> >> There is a bit of play in the needle roller between the 1st and main >> shafts when the tip is not supported in the crankshaft pilot bearing. >> Earlier boxes have very long individual rollers so have less play >> whereas the later box has the caged bearing which is only half the >> length and so appears to have more play. >> >> One issue is that the factory did a rather average job of aligning the >> indent grooves in the shift rails with where they are supposed to be >> and the indent ball sits only partially in the groove so is very easy >> to pop back out of gear again. The recommended mod consists of >> grinding the groove slightly deeper and further forward (or backwards) >> so the ball sits correctly in it when the gear is engaged. >> >> You can check if your shift rails are ok by assembling everything and >> engaging each gear with a dti gauge on the corresponding indent ball >> (or a screwdriver). When the gear is engaged, the ball should drop to >> the lowest position and begin to rise up slightly if the gear is >> forced further into engagement. That indicates the ball is correctly >> in the indent. If the ball continues to fall as the gear is forced >> further into engagement, you have the same problem as I had in that >> the indent is simply in the wrong position. I tried several shift >> rails until I found the closest fitting ones then ground them with a >> dremel to finish. >> >> Beware of junk quality synchro rings... >> >> Andy. >> >> On 11/6/17, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> I've finally removed my geabox and done some preliminary inspection. >>> Shifting forks are worn down some--not surprising in a 200K mile >>> box--but >>> all gears look to be in pristine condition.? One thing I noticed is >>> that the >>> first motion shaft seems to wobble a bit, unlike the output shaft >>> with turns >>> freely but doesn't wobble much if at all (both large bearings appear >>> to be >>> in perfect condition).? Should the rear of the first motion shaft >>> fit snugly >>> into the front of the output (main) shaft, or is a bit of play to be >>> expected??? I've thought perhaps the increased compression in the >>> new engine >>> might cause some 'buckling' in the first/output shafts--more than the >>> sliding hub can restrain--so could this be the cause of jumping out >>> of 4th >>> gear? >>> >>> >>> Also, DWR sells an uprated 3-4 sliding hub, which it claims >>> eliminates the >>> 'jumping out of gear problem,' so this issue is apparently not >>> uncommon. >>> >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> -------------------------------- >>> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From per at schoerner.se Tue Nov 7 15:19:56 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2017 23:19:56 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com> <7b308a32-d7d8-20c9-b716-7c90904c3604@comcast.net> Guys When gearbox and engine are separated the gearbox input shaft will wobble because it doesn?t have any support in the front. The only thing that keeps it in place is the bearing, and the little bearing between it and the main shaft. When you put everything together again the front tip of the input shaft will be supported by the little bushing in the crankshaft, and by the clutch. So, don?t worry about the wobbling. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > From per at schoerner.se Tue Nov 7 15:23:20 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2017 23:23:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com> <7b308a32-d7d8-20c9-b716-7c90904c3604@comcast.net> Oh, forgot to mention, make sure you install the dowel bolts correctly when you reassemble. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Tue Nov 7 18:20:51 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2017 14:20:51 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com> <7b308a32-d7d8-20c9-b716-7c90904c3604@comcast.net> <79cd8d05-8bb3-67a5-730c-df6a4892998b@comcast.net> Hi Bob, Yes the Healey synchro design is slightly different to conventional but the principle of operation once in gear is the same. The engagement teeth rely on the internal hub tooth faces being parallel to prevent them from trying to push back out of gear and when worn they tend to be slightly tapered in the wrong direction. The later (probably Japanese) dovetail design fixes that by making them tapered in the direction that pulls them into gear. Those sloped ramps you refer to are a half-assed attempt by BMC to stop the central hub part moving towards the opposite gear (eg 3rd when driving in 4th) and wearing out the synchro cone. In the early boxes there is nothing to stop that apart from the three ball bearings and springs holding it in place against friction. The idea is that those lozenge shaped radial pins in the synchroniser assembly ride down the ramp and lock the central hub onto the mating grooves on the mainshaft which prevents it from being able to slide backwards. It doesn't work as you'll find you can engage 4th gear and with a screwdriver, push the central hub backwards until the 3rd gear synchro rubs on 3rd gear cone face anyway... I used a BN7 mainshaft and ground the grooves in the shaft shallower so the system can work as intended- for better or worse. I'm sure you could just leave out those lozenge shaped pins and nobody would be any the wiser. I bet though if you got the synchro hub on the main shaft in the wrong orientation so the notches and pins weren't aligned right it would work fine until one day when you were in the middle of nowhere, jam permanently in 3rd gear. Andy. On 11/8/17, Bob Spidell wrote: > The Healey hub looks a little different, with 3 'notches' where the > synchro ring 'ears' fit, and there is an inner groove cut in all the > teeth, presumably where the detent balls reside. Curiously, two of the > teeth are 'sloped'--for lack of a better word--one on each side, and we > can't figure out why. Our best guess is that the slope relieves some of > the pressure from the detent balls, making it a bit easier to move the > slider in and out of gear (which, of course, would contribute to my > problem). I'd post a photo, but the car is at my folks' house and I > won't get back down there until next week. > > Thanks again for the help. > > Bob > From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Wed Nov 8 11:00:03 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2017 13:00:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheels - best 2 on rear or front? Just got 5 new tires for my BJ8. Wire wheels are good, but not great. Do I put the 2 best wheels on the rear or the front? Thanks in advance for your help! Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Nov 8 12:56:38 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2017 11:56:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheels - best 2 on rear or front? References: <008401d358bb$68fdaba0$3af902e0$@nc.rr.com> put your best four on the car. if you do not have four best ones, get two more. A tire or wheel failure at speed in our cars is a potentially ruinous activity. There is not much ground clearance. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Nov 8, 2017 at 10:00 AM, Bob Simmen wrote: > Just got 5 new tires for my BJ8. Wire wheels are good, but not great. > > Do I put the 2 best wheels on the rear or the front? > > Thanks in advance for your help! > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Wed Nov 8 14:44:20 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2017 16:44:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Wire Wheels - best 2 on rear or front? Thanks to everyone that replied! The best two will go on the front. This spring, all five wheels will be at Hendrix Wire Wheel for a complete makeover or replacement. Thanks again, Bob From: Bob Simmen [mailto:rsimmen at nc.rr.com] Sent: Wednesday, November 8, 2017 1:00 PM To: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Wire Wheels - best 2 on rear or front? Just got 5 new tires for my BJ8. Wire wheels are good, but not great. Do I put the 2 best wheels on the rear or the front? Thanks in advance for your help! Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Wed Nov 8 14:45:46 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2017 16:45:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheels - best 2 on rear or front? References: <008401d358bb$68fdaba0$3af902e0$@nc.rr.com> Bob, Put the best wheel on the driver side front, then the next best on the passenger side front, then the next best on the driver side rear and the worst on the passenger side rear. If you know the wheels are not great, have them trued. The tires should have correct tubes in them. Most tire places put too large a tube in and this could cause a flat. The spoke nipples could also chafe the tube and so the inside of the wheel needs to be wrapped with rubber tape, not duct tape. Then the tires and tubes are mounted and shaved round and then everything balanced. I know this sounds extensive and excessive but you just paid a lot of money for tires why do anything less for the wheels, your safety and comfort as well as your family's safety and comfort. I sound like I am preaching but Allen Hendrix just finished mine last Thursday and there is a fabulous improvement in ride and handling of the car. Be sure to include the spare in the process. No financial interest or attachment with Hendrix Wire Wheels, just very satisfied for the second time. Fred 63 BJ7 deceased 66 BJ8 On Nov 8, 2017 2:00 PM, "Bob Simmen" wrote: > Just got 5 new tires for my BJ8. Wire wheels are good, but not great. > > Do I put the 2 best wheels on the rear or the front? > > Thanks in advance for your help! > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu Nov 9 07:05:29 2017 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2017 9:05:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheels - best 2 on rear or front? I agree if the wheels aren't true put the best on the front, when I read this I immediately thought splines, the other major issue with wire wheels. Put the best splines in the back, they get it coming and going (back and forth torque from braking and acceleration), and will wear out further and faster on the rears. I did this on my 100, and also replaced the rear hubs, no more clunk. Greg Lemon ---- Fred Wescoe wrote: > Bob, > > Put the best wheel on the driver side front, then the next best on the > passenger side front, then the next best on the driver side rear and the > worst on the passenger side rear. > If you know the wheels are not great, have them trued. The tires should > have correct tubes in them. Most tire places put too large a tube in and > this could cause a flat. The spoke nipples could also chafe the tube and > so the inside of the wheel needs to be wrapped with rubber tape, not duct > tape. Then the tires and tubes are mounted and shaved round and then > everything balanced. > I know this sounds extensive and excessive but you just paid a lot of money > for tires why do anything less for the wheels, your safety and comfort as > well as your family's safety and comfort. > I sound like I am preaching but Allen Hendrix just finished mine last > Thursday and there is a fabulous improvement in ride and handling of the > car. Be sure to include the spare in the process. > No financial interest or attachment with Hendrix Wire Wheels, just very > satisfied for the second time. > > Fred > 63 BJ7 deceased > 66 BJ8 > > On Nov 8, 2017 2:00 PM, "Bob Simmen" wrote: > > > Just got 5 new tires for my BJ8. Wire wheels are good, but not great. > > > > Do I put the 2 best wheels on the rear or the front? > > > > Thanks in advance for your help! > > > > Bob > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com > > > > > > From dkgraber85 at yahoo.com Thu Nov 9 10:38:57 2017 From: dkgraber85 at yahoo.com (Darin Graber) Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2017 10:38:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wire Wheels - best 2 on rear or front? References: <20171109140529.RT5NK.136358.root@cdptpa-web06> Don?t put old wires on new hubs. They will accelerate the wear process and ruin new hubs. Best to replace hubs and wires at the same time... D Sent from my iPhone 6+ > On Nov 9, 2017, at 7:05 AM, wrote: > > I agree if the wheels aren't true put the best on the front, when I read this I immediately thought splines, the other major issue with wire wheels. Put the best splines in the back, they get it coming and going (back and forth torque from braking and acceleration), and will wear out further and faster on the rears. > > I did this on my 100, and also replaced the rear hubs, no more clunk. > > Greg Lemon > > ---- Fred Wescoe wrote: >> Bob, >> >> Put the best wheel on the driver side front, then the next best on the >> passenger side front, then the next best on the driver side rear and the >> worst on the passenger side rear. >> If you know the wheels are not great, have them trued. The tires should >> have correct tubes in them. Most tire places put too large a tube in and >> this could cause a flat. The spoke nipples could also chafe the tube and >> so the inside of the wheel needs to be wrapped with rubber tape, not duct >> tape. Then the tires and tubes are mounted and shaved round and then >> everything balanced. >> I know this sounds extensive and excessive but you just paid a lot of money >> for tires why do anything less for the wheels, your safety and comfort as >> well as your family's safety and comfort. >> I sound like I am preaching but Allen Hendrix just finished mine last >> Thursday and there is a fabulous improvement in ride and handling of the >> car. Be sure to include the spare in the process. >> No financial interest or attachment with Hendrix Wire Wheels, just very >> satisfied for the second time. >> >> Fred >> 63 BJ7 deceased >> 66 BJ8 >> >>> On Nov 8, 2017 2:00 PM, "Bob Simmen" wrote: >>> >>> Just got 5 new tires for my BJ8. Wire wheels are good, but not great. >>> >>> Do I put the 2 best wheels on the rear or the front? >>> >>> Thanks in advance for your help! >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dkgraber85 at yahoo.com > From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Thu Nov 9 13:00:20 2017 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2017 20:00:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 H4 SU rebuild References: <927176848.10035491.1510257620279.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Just got the two H4 SU carb bodies back from Burlen after they have rebushed the throttle spindles and fitted new spindles and discs. I'm doing the rest of the rebuild myself, using Burlen's rebuild kits. Does anyone who's done this themselves have any tips or tricks for me? Thanks Mike Brooks'56 BN2Scotland ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Nov 9 15:02:02 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2017 17:02:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8---for sale FYI This is in Pittsburgh, Pa. NFI, just sharing. https://www.usatoday.com/story/money/2017/11/08/take-this-miami-pittsburgh-top-retirement-spot/840292001/ From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Nov 9 15:02:51 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2017 17:02:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8---for sale FYI sorry, wrong link-------I'll get the correct one. tom ---- Tom Felts wrote: ============= This is in Pittsburgh, Pa. NFI, just sharing. https://www.usatoday.com/story/money/2017/11/08/take-this-miami-pittsburgh-top-retirement-spot/840292001/ From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Nov 9 15:04:09 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2017 17:04:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale--correct link. http://www.foreigntraffic.com/listings/1967-austin-healey-3000-mk-iii-british-racing-green/ From per at schoerner.se Thu Nov 9 18:22:50 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 02:22:50 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale--correct link. References: <20171109170409.H0TL9.1190.root@pamxwww01-z01> Vin number JBL41516 ??????? Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 9 nov. 2017 kl. 23:04 skrev Tom Felts : > > http://www.foreigntraffic.com/listings/1967-austin-healey-3000-mk-iii-british-racing-green/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Nov 9 18:28:54 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2017 20:28:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale--correct link. Good point. I sent him a note for an explanation. tom ---- Per Schoerner wrote: ============= Vin number JBL41516 ??????? Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 9 nov. 2017 kl. 23:04 skrev Tom Felts : > > http://www.foreigntraffic.com/listings/1967-austin-healey-3000-mk-iii-british-racing-green/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Nov 9 19:47:01 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 10:47:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com> Your balls and springs are likely missing! On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 11:21 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I've finally removed my geabox and done some preliminary inspection. > Shifting forks are worn down some--not surprising in a 200K mile box--but > all gears look to be in pristine condition. One thing I noticed is that > the first motion shaft seems to wobble a bit, unlike the output shaft with > turns freely but doesn't wobble much if at all (both large bearings appear > to be in perfect condition). Should the rear of the first motion shaft fit > snugly into the front of the output (main) shaft, or is a bit of play to be > expected? I've thought perhaps the increased compression in the new > engine might cause some 'buckling' in the first/output shafts--more than > the sliding hub can restrain--so could this be the cause of jumping out of > 4th gear? > > > Also, DWR sells an uprated 3-4 sliding hub, which it claims eliminates the > 'jumping out of gear problem,' so this issue is apparently not uncommon. > > > Bob > > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Nov 9 20:46:30 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2017 19:46:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Anyone running this setup?? Pros?? Cons? Bob From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Nov 9 21:59:03 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 9 Nov 2017 20:59:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale--correct link. References: <20171109202854.WUHQL.22116.root@pamxwww06-z01> Looks like a cream puff (with a couple anomalies).? Low mileage BJ8s were going for more than that a few years ago, guess Big Healey prices really have dropped. Bob On 11/9/2017 5:28 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > Good point. I sent him a note for an explanation. > > tom > ---- Per Schoerner wrote: > > ============= > Vin number JBL41516 ??????? > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > > From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Nov 9 23:03:53 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 17:03:53 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com> Hello Alan I?m so tempted to say something about that being painful, but I won?t. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Friday, 10 November 2017 1:47 PM To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating Your balls and springs are likely missing! On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 11:21 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: I've finally removed my geabox and done some preliminary inspection. Shifting forks are worn down some--not surprising in a 200K mile box--but all gears look to be in pristine condition. One thing I noticed is that the first motion shaft seems to wobble a bit, unlike the output shaft with turns freely but doesn't wobble much if at all (both large bearings appear to be in perfect condition). Should the rear of the first motion shaft fit snugly into the front of the output (main) shaft, or is a bit of play to be expected? I've thought perhaps the increased compression in the new engine might cause some 'buckling' in the first/output shafts--more than the sliding hub can restrain--so could this be the cause of jumping out of 4th gear? Also, DWR sells an uprated 3-4 sliding hub, which it claims eliminates the 'jumping out of gear problem,' so this issue is apparently not uncommon. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Fri Nov 10 00:00:35 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 08:00:35 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 H4 SU rebuild References: <927176848.10035491.1510257620279.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <927176848.10035491.1510257620279@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mike, soak the cork jet seals in engine oil for at least one day before you fit them. Do the fit and centreing of the jets carefully. It a little fiddle, as you need to fit the damper and damper domes first before. Then check the move of the damper and to hhear a "plop" when it reached the down position. Adjust the float level correctly, use a 11mm drill. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] BN2 H4 SU rebuild Datum: 2017-11-09T22:39:38+0100 Von: "mike brooks" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" Just got the two H4 SU carb bodies back from Burlen after they have rebushed the throttle spindles and fitted new spindles and discs. I'm doing the rest of the rebuild myself, using Burlen's rebuild kits. Does anyone who's done this themselves have any tips or tricks for me? Thanks Mike Brooks '56 BN2 Scotland ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eorr at cogeco.ca Fri Nov 10 06:27:22 2017 From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 08:27:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds 70/75 mph . Ed Orr '65 BJ8 3.54 28% '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Fri Nov 10 07:39:47 2017 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 09:39:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: So are you running these rear end gears using your original trans or have you switched to the Toyota 5 speed ? Don 67 BJ-8 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 10, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Ed Orr wrote: > > It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . > Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds 70/75 mph . > > Ed Orr > '65 BJ8 3.54 28% > '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend > > Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Nov 10 07:54:10 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 06:54:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com> <01a601d359e9$b16ae0e0$1440a2a0$@tpg.com.au> Well, I was gonna say my balls are where they should be, but didn't.? My springs left a long time ago. bs On 11/9/2017 10:03 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Hello Alan > > I?m so tempted to say something about that being painful, but I won?t. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Alan Seigrist > *Sent:* Friday, 10 November 2017 1:47 PM > *To:* Bob Spidell > *Cc:* healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting > downhill or decelerating > > Your balls and springs are likely missing! > > On Mon, Nov 6, 2017 at 11:21 AM, Bob Spidell > I've finally removed my geabox and done some preliminary inspection.? > Shifting forks are worn down some--not surprising in a 200K mile > box--but all gears look to be in pristine condition.? One thing I > noticed is that the first motion shaft seems to wobble a bit, unlike > the output shaft with turns freely but doesn't wobble much if at all > (both large bearings appear to be in perfect condition).? Should the > rear of the first motion shaft fit snugly into the front of the output > (main) shaft, or is a bit of play to be expected? I've thought perhaps > the increased compression in the new engine might cause some > 'buckling' in the first/output shafts--more than the sliding hub can > restrain--so could this be the cause of jumping out of 4th gear? > > Also, DWR sells an uprated 3-4 sliding hub, which it claims eliminates > the 'jumping out of gear problem,' so this issue is apparently not > uncommon. > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eorr at cogeco.ca Fri Nov 10 08:01:20 2017 From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 10:01:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <1E48C1FC-2B4B-496F-BAE4-8373E79D5068@yahoo.com> Yes I have the original transmission . Ed -----Original Message----- From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Sent: Friday, November 10, 2017 9:39 AM To: Ed Orr Cc: Bob Spidell ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend So are you running these rear end gears using your original trans or have you switched to the Toyota 5 speed ? Don 67 BJ-8 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 10, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Ed Orr wrote: > > It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 > about 10 years ago or so . > Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway > speeds 70/75 mph . > > Ed Orr > '65 BJ8 3.54 28% > '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend > > Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Nov 10 08:27:46 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 07:27:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: The tradeoff is the overdrive is not as effective however, the RPM's are much lower at high speed. John '62 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Orr Sent: Friday, November 10, 2017 5:27 AM To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds 70/75 mph . Ed Orr '65 BJ8 3.54 28% '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Nov 10 08:51:55 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 10:51:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: You will only need overdrive above 75 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 9, 2017, at 10:46 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Fri Nov 10 09:19:36 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 16:19:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: Bob, I had this arrangement for about 30K miles. The OD was built by ORS in England with the 128% OD and a 1 ?? accumulator. With 165R15 Vredesteins 70 MPH was 2,700 RPM. Last year the OD started acting up. This was my third attempt at getting a reliable OD so I put in the Healey 5 Speed. The proper non-turbo Supra 5 speed has a 5th gear ratio of .783, which is precisely the same as the 128% OD. I now have the same high end gearing, but with a lot more reliability. If a car is to be driven a lot and for long tips, it is the way to go. Ed O?Neal -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:47 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Nov 10 09:51:10 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 16:51:10 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: Yes, I've got a 28% and a 3:54 on my MkII BT7. I find it very beneficial. Much better for distance work on Motorways and no lack of response at lower speeds. There's enough power to make up for the longer ratios and, if you need anything extra, you can just use or remain in a lower gear for longer. I have no regrets about fitting them. I was lucky insofar as I looked for a diff from an automatic Westminster for some years before finding one at a v.good price. This begs the question....would I be prepared to pay the fairly stiff cost of a 3:54 from one of our usual suspects??? Not sure....probably. Again, would I take out a perfectly good 22% and install a 28%? No. (I had to have a total rebuild done on my OD as it had somehow done the reversing into shrapnel trick. I don't know why/how to this day....the 1st/2nd & reverse switch checked out fine. Anyhow, I opted for 28% at no extra cost.) Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 10 November 2017 03:47 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Fri Nov 10 11:10:00 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 07:10:00 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 H4 SU rebuild References: <927176848.10035491.1510257620279.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <927176848.10035491.1510257620279@mail.yahoo.com> <1510297235090.7274906.7e30ca2cc05ae341a5779bd53c70fba700e9146a@spica.telekom.de> Hi Mike, There are Teflon orings available to replace the cork- you will eliminate the fuel leaking from the jets completely that way. McMaster sell them for a few dollars, two go in place of each cork ring (four total) and no more leaks. https://www.mcmaster.com/#9559k15/=1a73gao Also, if you don't have one, get yourself a jet aligning tool. Moss sells a kit with a jet wrench and aligning tool for a few dollars, well worth it. The problem is that the carb body indents where the last jet was tightened up and when you tighten the new jet up it will tend to want to slip into the old location. The jet tool is a rigid bar that holds the jet in the correct position while you tighten the nut. Andy. On 11/10/17, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > Hi Mike, > soak the cork jet seals in engine oil for at least one day before you fit > them. Do the fit and centreing of the jets carefully. It a little fiddle, > as you need to fit the damper and damper domes first before. Then check the > > move of the damper and to hhear a "plop" when it reached the down position. > Adjust the float level correctly, use a 11mm drill. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: [Healeys] BN2 H4 SU rebuild > Datum: 2017-11-09T22:39:38+0100 > Von: "mike brooks" > An: "healeys at autox.team.net" > > > > Just got the two H4 SU carb bodies back from Burlen after they have > rebushed the throttle spindles and fitted new spindles and discs. I'm doing > > the rest of the rebuild myself, using Burlen's rebuild kits. Does anyone > who's done this themselves have any tips or tricks for me? > > Thanks > > Mike Brooks > '56 BN2 > Scotland > > > ? From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Fri Nov 10 12:06:57 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 08:06:57 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: Yup, same here. 3.54/28%OD on a BN4 Longbridge with Michelin XAS tires and still plenty of power. The odometer will be slightly out after a rear axle ratio change which can be corrected by replacing gears inside the speedo. If you are changing the OD ratio then make sure you get the correct planet carrier-sun gear thrust washer as it is different. Andy. On 11/11/17, Ed Orr wrote: > It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 > about 10 years ago or so . > Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds > > 70/75 mph . > > Ed Orr > '65 BJ8 3.54 28% > '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend > > Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austinhealeyslist at gmail.com > > From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Nov 10 14:44:48 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 16:44:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html Sentfrom my iPhone > On Nov 10, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Ed Orr wrote: > > It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . > Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds 70/75 mph . > > Ed Orr > '65 BJ8 3.54 28% > '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend > > Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Fri Nov 10 16:17:03 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 09:17:03 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B465F6@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> ...I had this combination in my BN1 based Ward Special coupe. Great on the highway (2300 at 100kph with Kumho 185/80R15s) but a pig on hill starts! Once I unblocked the A90 first gear it was fine. Cheers Peter From: Ed O'Neal Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 2:19 AM To: Bob Spidell ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Bob, I had this arrangement for about 30K miles. The OD was built by ORS in England with the 128% OD and a 1 ?? accumulator. With 165R15 Vredesteins 70 MPH was 2,700 RPM. Last year the OD started acting up. This was my third attempt at getting a reliable OD so I put in the Healey 5 Speed. The proper non-turbo Supra 5 speed has a 5th gear ratio of .783, which is precisely the same as the 128% OD. I now have the same high end gearing, but with a lot more reliability. If a car is to be driven a lot and for long tips, it is the way to go. Ed O?Neal -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:47 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Nov 10 16:17:03 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 18:17:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for George Cooper Listers Looking for an old Austin Healey friend that we knew from our days in Hawaii. He moved to California in the late 1980?s. His name is George Cooper. He has or had a very nice BN6 with solid wheels, painted a medium shade of British Racing Green with Black trim. Any help with my quest would be appreciated. I have tried the normal google search and the like with no success. Thanks Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Fri Nov 10 16:30:35 2017 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 23:30:35 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating References: <603948323.115630.1509938507987@connect.xfinity.com>, I've noticed in some cases that the shift rails in the box are actually worn where the detent balls ride. If that gets bad enough the detent action may be too weak hold the gears engaged. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist Sent: Friday, November 10, 2017 2:47:01 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox jumping out of 4th gear coasting downhill or decelerating Your balls and springs are likely missing! I've finally removed my geabox and done some preliminary inspection. Shifting forks are worn down some--not surprising in a 200K mile box--but all gears look to be in pristine condition. One thing I noticed is that the first motion shaft seems to wobble a bit, unlike the output shaft with turns freely but doesn't wobble much if at all (both large bearings appear to be in perfect condition). Should the rear of the first motion shaft fit snugly into the front of the output (main) shaft, or is a bit of play to be expected? I've thought perhaps the increased compression in the new engine might cause some 'buckling' in the first/output shafts--more than the sliding hub can restrain--so could this be the cause of jumping out of 4th gear? Also, DWR sells an uprated 3-4 sliding hub, which it claims eliminates the 'jumping out of gear problem,' so this issue is apparently not uncommon. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Nov 10 17:51:13 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 16:51:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] front seat back adjustment Tried looking in the archives. Some one posted instructions with drawing to weld a bit onto the seat frame to rake the seat back. I cannot locate it. So if you have a copy of the drawing and measurements please send it to me. Thanks Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Thu Nov 2 08:04:21 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2017 10:04:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Ashtray Hold Down Screw A CMZ 0208 screw is a zinc plated, recessed countersunk machine screw - unified threads - #6 X 1/2" long 32 threads per inch (UNC) The source is the BMC Standards. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: David Nock BCS To: i erbs ; Larry Wendland Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Wed, Nov 1, 2017 8:00 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH 3000 Ashtray Hold Down Screw Screw sizes 6 x 40 8 x 36 10 x 32 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com On Tue, Oct 31, 2017 at 2:11 PM, Larry Wendland wrote: Harold, I have a '67 BJ8 and its ash tray looks the same as the one in the parts diagram. My screws are 6-32 counter sunk phillips head. I checked my screws with my tap and die set and a 6-32 nut. I hope this helps you. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: healeys Sent: Sat, Oct 28, 2017 8:44 pm Subject: [Healeys] AH 3000 Ashtray Hold Down Screw Hello out there, Does anyone know the thread pitch for the ashtray hold down screws on an AH 3000 Mk1? Item 22 in the attached picture. The BMC part number is CMZ0208 so I know it is #6 x 1/2" but I have to retap the threads and I don't have the old screws. Thanks in advance for your help.... Harold _______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri Nov 3 10:14:33 2017 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2017 09:14:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question References: <006901d35453$dbad1ad0$93075070$@cox.net> <20171103081020.1PC4G.27134.root@pamxwww07-z01> Yes, really. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 -----Original Message----- From: Tom Felts [mailto:tomfelts at windstream.net] Sent: Friday, November 3, 2017 5:10 AM To: 'Bruce Steele' ; Jonas Payne ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix question Really? I've had Pertronix in my Healey and E-Type for 13 years and have enjoy virtually trouble-free driving ever since. smooth as silK. tom ---- Jonas Payne wrote: ============= Don't do it. Petronix sucks. I buy condensers by the gross. The bad ones are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a decade. They are cheap and easy to replace. From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Nov 5 05:45:23 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2017 7:45:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. Tacky comes to mind. tom From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun Nov 5 06:46:00 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2017 08:46:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. References: <15f89ba1560-c08-9cf8@webjas-vad080.srv.aolmail.net> <002e01d35629$25fc5ca0$71f515e0$@tpg.com.au> You have to admit it served its purpose, though, to attract attention to the Healey stand at Earls Court. It seemed to have been influenced by Lady Docker's Daimler limo "Golden Zebra" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Docker_Daimlers. I saw this quote on Hemmings a few years ago from a woman professing to be a former owner of Goldie that I find interesting : "I dug out a photo and the registration is the car shown above.The information I have is based on the fellow who showed up at our Pub with a picture of the car in 1966/67 It was for sale and had been previously owned by Diana Dors, on the bonnet of the car when I had it was a gold horse & jockey which had been a gift to Diana from Lady Docker, I used the car every day & loved every minute of it. Unfortunately in 69ish the car was put in a garage in Reading on a SOR basis?.. it sold, but the garage owner did a flit with the proceeds? I would love to know where it went from there?." https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2013/03/06/goldie-going-gone-one-off-austin-healey-show-car-offered-at-worldwide/ I don't know if this story is a complete fabrication, but there's something absolutely delicious about considering Ms. Dors (aka Britain's Marilyn Monroe) driving around in Goldie with a tasteless hood ornament gifted from the "colourful" Lady Docker. I've tried to find confirmation of the story but have had no luck. You also have to credit Bruce and Inan for the incredible work in restoring Goldie and preserving this bit of Healey history. It really does belong in the Healey Museum. Rick Neville On Sun, Nov 5, 2017 at 6:28 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > Thanks Simon > > > > I thought I was the only person who thought it horrible. In fact I would > use the word ?ugly?. > > > > Or am I calling the kettle black? > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Simon > Lachlan > *Sent:* Sunday, 5 November 2017 9:12 PM > *To:* editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. > > > > Horrible. > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *editorgary at aol.com > *Sent:* 05 November 2017 01:10 > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. > > > > Goldie is going on sale. Any over/under bets? > > > > http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-5049449/Austin- > Healey-24-carat-gold-plating-set-auction.html > > > > *Gary Anderson* > Los Altos, California > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Nov 10 21:02:49 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2017 20:02:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?28=25_OD_with_3=2E54_rearend?= I'm running the 28% Supra 5 spd with the 3.54 original Lempert rear end, along with a DWR 8 278 degree cam. Nothing but praise for the setup. 3000rpm is pushing 80mph. I had one of the .85 other Toyota boxes before and this is a better freeway cruiser and no slouch in the mountains either. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA, USA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Sat Nov 11 06:13:25 2017 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 13:13:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 H4 SU rebuild References: <1955097997.264026.1510406005501.ref@mail.yahoo.com> ?Thanks for the help and apologies if I have missed anyone out.The job is done and the carbs and manifold back on the 100 and it starts! Not tuned yet. That's for tomorrow. I've used the cork jet seals soaked overnight as suggested - the tip about the teflon seals came in after I'd started the job. I have an SU tuning kit, which I had used previously on a pair of HS6's. Unfortunately the jet centering tool doesn't fit an H4 as the upper diameter is too large, so I had to centre carefully with the needle in place by trial and error. Quick and easy on the rear carb, but the front carb was determined to tighten up to one side and it took forever to persuade it to where it needed to go. Once I've got everything tuned up, the whole lot comes off again for a head gasket job. I was going to do the head gasket whilst the manifold was off, but decided I really wanted to make sure the carb job was OK first. Mike Brooks'56 BN2Scotland -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Nov 11 10:14:28 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 18:14:28 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 H4 SU rebuild References: <1955097997.264026.1510406005501.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1955097997.264026.1510406005501@mail.yahoo.com> Do not bother to tune the carbs when the head and/or gasket are not right. Wait untill the head and gasket is fixed. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-11-2017 om 14:13 schreef mike brooks: > ?Thanks for the help and apologies if I have missed anyone out.The job > is done and the carbs and manifold back on the 100 and it starts! Not > tuned yet. That's for tomorrow. I've used the cork jet seals soaked > overnight as suggested - the tip about the teflon seals came in after > I'd started the job. I have an SU tuning kit, which I had used > previously on a pair of HS6's. Unfortunately the jet centering tool > doesn't fit an H4 as the upper diameter is too large, so I had to > centre carefully with the needle in place by trial and error. Quick > and easy on the rear carb, but the front carb was determined to > tighten up to one side and it took forever to persuade it to where it > needed to go. Once I've got everything tuned up, the whole lot comes > off again for a head gasket job. I was going to do the head gasket > whilst the manifold was off, but decided I really wanted to make sure > the carb job was OK first. > > Mike Brooks > '56 BN2 > Scotland > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Nov 11 12:03:06 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 14:03:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] front seat back adjustment References: Ira See: http://www.ahexp.com/phorum/read.php?3,189643 Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: i erbs Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 1:20 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] front seat back adjustment Tried looking in the archives. Some one posted instructions with? drawing to weld a bit onto the seat frame to rake the seat back. I cannot locate it. So if you have a copy of the drawing and measurements please send it to me. Thanks Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB ? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Nov 11 19:04:49 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 18:04:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots Does anyone have a source they would share to obtain the correct rubber boot for the steering connector rod ball end? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Nov 11 16:57:11 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 15:57:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> Is there an easy way to determine the various installed ratios?? I'm curious as to how my mph vs rpm stacks up.? Also, is there a torque curve available (BJ8). Mike ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On 11/10/2017 1:44 PM, David Nock wrote: > Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm > > http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html > > Sentfrom my iPhone > > On Nov 10, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Ed Orr >> It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition >> 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . >> Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway >> speeds 70/75 mph . >> >> Ed Orr >> '65 BJ8 ?3.54 28% >> '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) >> >> >> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell >> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend >> >> Anyone running this setup? ?Pros? ?Cons? >> >> Bob >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Nov 11 16:58:08 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 15:58:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. References: <20171105074523.WNYWF.8819.root@pamxwww04-z01> Just the word I had in mind. Mike On 11/5/2017 4:45 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > Tacky comes to mind. > > tom > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > > -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From manifold at telus.net Sat Nov 11 20:58:26 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 19:58:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> DjAled0WThSAJDjAmekDpQ Mike, I developed this spreadsheet sometime ago to compare tires and the OD ratio on RPM and speed. Just change the OD Ratio and Rear Axle cells to get a different output. Regards, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 3:57 PM To: David Nock; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Is there an easy way to determine the various installed ratios? I'm curious as to how my mph vs rpm stacks up. Also, is there a torque curve available (BJ8). Mike _____ On 11/10/2017 1:44 PM, David Nock wrote: Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html Sentfrom my iPhone On Nov 10, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Ed Orr wrote: It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds 70/75 mph . Ed Orr '65 BJ8 3.54 28% '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 _____ AVG logo This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Tire Comp.xls Type: application/vnd.ms-excel Size: 16384 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Nov 11 21:03:02 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 20:03:02 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots References: DiFEeZ8mMhCDuDiFFeXxMx John, I was able to source these through Moss but their catalogue was not clear. Match your tie rod ends to the pictures Moss has in there technical literature to get the right ones. In my case one tie rod had been replaced been years ago and was not OEM. Regards, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 6:05 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots Does anyone have a source they would share to obtain the correct rubber boot for the steering connector rod ball end? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sat Nov 11 21:19:07 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 23:19:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. References: <20171105074523.WNYWF.8819.root@pamxwww04-z01> <31e97a9d-9692-65bd-4289-7504e1bbead8@comcast.net> Hideous is another. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S Sent: November-11-17 6:58 PM To: Tom Felts; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. Just the word I had in mind. Mike On 11/5/2017 4:45 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > Tacky comes to mind. > > tom > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > > -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun Nov 12 07:50:07 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2017 06:50:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> Thanks.? I'll take a look at it. Regards, Mike On 11/11/2017 7:58 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > Mike, > I developed this spreadsheet sometime ago to compare tires and the OD > ratio on RPM and speed. Just change the?OD Ratio and Rear Axle > cells?to get a different output. > Regards, > Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Mike S > *Sent:* Saturday, November 11, 2017 3:57 PM > *To:* David Nock; Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend > > > Is there an easy way to determine the various installed ratios? I'm > curious as to how my mph vs rpm stacks up.? Also, is there a torque > curve available (BJ8). > > Mike > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > On 11/10/2017 1:44 PM, David Nock wrote: >> Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm >> >> http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html >> >> Sentfrom my iPhone >> >> On Nov 10, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Ed Orr > >>> It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition >>> 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . >>> Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway >>> speeds 70/75 mph . >>> >>> Ed Orr >>> '65 BJ8 ?3.54 28% >>> '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell >>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM >>> To: Healeys >>> Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend >>> >>> Anyone running this setup? ?Pros? ?Cons? >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net >> > > -- > Mike > > MGTD (long gone) > BN1 (long gone) > BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) > BJ8 > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > AVG logo > > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. > www.avg.com > > -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun Nov 12 08:01:55 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2017 07:01:55 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> <009d01d35b9d$281cde50$78569af0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Thank you, too, Simon.? Good information. Regards, Mike On 11/12/2017 2:01 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > I wrote an article years ago that, I think, approximate > --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Sun Nov 12 10:44:01 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2017 12:44:01 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots If this is same size as tie rod ends see old message below <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Mr. Hess - For this type of stuff, always refer to John Sim's great website: http://www.healey6.com/replacement_parts.htm And towards the bottom of the list, you will see: Steering Rod Boot Hyundai Dealer Parts 56828-21010 Cover-Dust Tie Rod Apparently this boot is a carbon copy of the original. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'John Spaur' , 'Healeys' Sent: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 23:03:02 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots @font-face { font-family: Cambria Math; } @font-face { font-family: Calibri; } @page WordSection1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in; } P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt } LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt } DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt } A:link { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #0563c1; mso-style-priority: 99 } SPAN.MsoHyperlink { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #0563c1; mso-style-priority: 99 } A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #954f72; mso-style-priority: 99 } SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #954f72; mso-style-priority: 99 } SPAN.EmailStyle17 { FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; COLOR: windowtext; mso-style-type: personal-compose } .MsoChpDefault { FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-style-type: export-only } DIV.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1 } John, I was able to source these through Moss but their catalogue was not clear. Match your tie rod ends to the pictures Moss has in there technical literature to get the right ones. In my case one tie rod had been replaced been years ago and was not OEM. Regards, Harold From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 6:05 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots Does anyone have a source they would share to obtain the correct rubber boot for the steering connector rod ball end? Thank you,John Spaur?62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Nov 12 11:06:10 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2017 10:06:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots References: <1109209316.713488197.1510508641454.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> Thanks Tim, I will check that out. However, it is on the connecting rod and it is more like a rubber washer. If it is a Hyundai part it is probably better than the reproduction. John From: Tim Davis BN7 [mailto:tld6008 at mchsi.com] Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2017 9:44 AM To: Harold Manifold Cc: 'John Spaur' ; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots If this is same size as tie rod ends see old message below <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Mr. Hess - For this type of stuff, always refer to John Sim's great website: http://www.healey6.com/replacement_parts.htm And towards the bottom of the list, you will see: Steering Rod Boot Hyundai Dealer Parts 56828-21010 Cover-Dust Tie Rod Apparently this boot is a carbon copy of the original. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 23:03:02 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots font-family: Cambria Math; } @font-face { font-family: Calibri; } @page WordSection1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in; } P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt } LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt } DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt } A:link { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #0563c1; mso-style-priority: 99 } SPAN.MsoHyperlink { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #0563c1; mso-style-priority: 99 } A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #954f72; mso-style-priority: 99 } SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #954f72; mso-style-priority: 99 } SPAN.EmailStyle17 { FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; COLOR: windowtext; mso-style-type: personal-compose } ..MsoChpDefault { FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-style-type: export-only } DIV.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1 } John, I was able to source these through Moss but their catalogue was not clear. Match your tie rod ends to the pictures Moss has in there technical literature to get the right ones. In my case one tie rod had been replaced been years ago and was not OEM. Regards, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 6:05 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots Does anyone have a source they would share to obtain the correct rubber boot for the steering connector rod ball end? Thank you, John Spaur ?62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sun Nov 12 18:39:39 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2017 17:39:39 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?BT7_cross_rod_boots_-_Hyundai_discontinu?= =?iso-8859-1?q?ed=3B_other_solutions?= Cross rod: Moss evidently sells the little washer type - see item 27 on the "Steering Idlers; Crossrods" page Boots: the Hyundai 56828-21010 is discontinued. Some tie rod ends with this boot are available cheap on RockAuto. See early '90s Excel. Energy Suspension 9.13103G is a urethane boot that will fit. I have installed one of these and it works. Not as well as the Hyundai, but it works. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sun Nov 12 18:43:51 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2017 17:43:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Correction=3A_BT7_cross_rod_boots?= Moss 262-220 is not the washer type cross rod deal - it's a boot. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From rick at ewilkins.com Sun Nov 12 19:04:49 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2017 18:04:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: I have this setup and it?s all good. First gear is now usable as more than a stump puller. Great for freeway cruising or top speed rally driving. A Healey is not a drag racer, so not being ultra quick isn?t problem at all for street use. I made a chart years ago for different gear and tire sizes: http://ewilkins.com/wilko/healeygears.htm > On Nov 10, 2017, at 5:27 AM, Ed Orr wrote: > > It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . > Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds 70/75 mph . > > Ed Orr > '65 BJ8 3.54 28% > '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend > > Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > > From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Nov 13 01:39:03 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 08:39:03 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Heater control panel Hi, See attached. I have a Mk II so the heater control panel is, by Healey standards, remarkably accessible. BUT, in a BJ8......well, it looks like access will be an issue. My nephew's panel needs to be replaced in his BJ8. Any advice? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Heater.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 599090 bytes Desc: not available URL: From editorgary at aol.com Mon Nov 13 03:49:36 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 05:49:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] A very interesting BN2 How much would you pay for this neatly modified 100? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100-bn2-roadster-3/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2017-11-11 Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Nov 13 08:19:01 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 15:19:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] A very interesting BN2 References: <15fb4ffaf63-c08-2df75@webjas-vae231.srv.aolmail.net> Gary, Difficult to predict, but judging by the comments section, there is a lot of excitement about this car. From the outside it presents well and while there has been several modifications made to make it "more driveable", not sure as to what has been done to the chassis/frame to start with especially after it was a race car. Certainly does not appear to have lots done to it since it is still painted black but with very little photos of it, difficult to assess. But it sure looks good. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of editorgary at aol.com Sent: November 13, 2017 10:49 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] A very interesting BN2 How much would you pay for this neatly modified 100? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100-bn2-roadster-3/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2017-11-11 Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Mon Nov 13 09:05:06 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 10:05:06 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Heater control panel References: <001101d35c5a$dca63b10$95f2b130$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Simon It is possible without removing the dash, with much patience and use of The Force. I did it on ours this past summer. Can?t remember all the details, but here goes. I removed the lower centre panel. Then removed the toggle switches (without moving the wires) (make sure the battery switch is turned off). Then the slider knob and the two cable pull knobs. Then removed the cable pulls from the panel. I can?t recall when in the sequence I unplugged the heater wire, but suspect it will be obvious. I put tape on both ends of the wire so I wouldn?t loose track. If I recall I had to remove/loosen the bolts holding the heater valve slider next. (This is where The Force came in handy). I could be wrong but I believe I only had had to loosen the bolts and not remove them completely. The heater control panel can be removed with much wiggling and patience. The heater control cable was disconnected at the heater valve before I started and I could not get it reconnected. A task for next summer. I hope I got that in the right order. Good luck! Bob England > On Nov 13, 2017, at 2:39 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Hi, > See attached. > I have a Mk II so the heater control panel is, by Healey standards, remarkably accessible. > BUT, in a BJ8......well, it looks like access will be an issue. My nephew?s panel needs to be replaced in his BJ8. > Any advice? > Thanks, > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl at accesscomm.ca > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Mon Nov 13 09:59:08 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 16:59:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] A very interesting BN2 References: <15fb4ffaf63-c08-2df75@webjas-vae231.srv.aolmail.net> With so much about the car that is really nice, it's a shame that the bottom of the front fender on the driver's side has that dreaded straight line repair, rather than the subtle curve that it should have. The other side doesn't look bad.I always notice this because it's one of my favourite lines on the big Healey, and a lot of old restorations don't have it right. Stephen, BJ8 From: Jean Caron To: "editorgary at aol.com" ; "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 10:37 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] A very interesting BN2 Gary,Difficult to predict, but judging by the comments section, there is a lot of excitement about this car. From the outside it presents well and while there has been several modifications made to make it "more driveable", not sure as to what has been done to the chassis/frame to start with especially after it was a race car. Certainly does not appear to have lots done to it since it is still painted black but with very little photos of it, difficult to assess. But it sure looks good. Jean From: Healeys on behalf of editorgary at aol.com Sent: November 13, 2017 10:49 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] A very interesting BN2?How much would you pay for this neatly modified 100? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100-bn2-roadster-3/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2017-11-11 Gary Anderson Los Altos, California _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Nov 13 11:12:31 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 10:12:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] A very interesting BN2 References: <15fb4ffaf63-c08-2df75@webjas-vae231.srv.aolmail.net> Well, it's not my cup of meat, and I can't see it going for over $60K, if that.? A really clean, original BN2 would go for at least that, and the VIN plate for a 100M would go for twice. Not a well-considered resto-mod, IMO.? I'd buy a really clean BN2 that has been fitted with alloy head, extractors, bigger carbs, etc. if done tastefully--without trying to pass for a 100M--and have a great 'sleeper.'? The brake upgrades are certainly nice, but the white wires only look good on 100Ses (stock silver would go better on this car).?? The body work--outer sills (flat bottom, not Kilmartin) and doglegs--hasn't been fitted well (as one of the commenters pointed out).? Alternator not necessary,? and instead of the cold air box I'd fit some K&Ns or equivalent (I'm considering doing this on my 100M, as the CAB is a PITA).? You DO want a heater, as I used mine just the other day when I got caught on a cool day without a jacket (unfortunately, I hit a deep pothole with the heater running and now the heater is making a 'tinkling' noise).? Interior is nicely done. AFAIK, DWR doesn't make 'Denis Welsh 10.5:1 flat-top pistons;' Welsh sells pistons in specific diameters, the compression ratio would be determined solely by bore and combustion chamber size. And what, exactly, is a 'high-lift crankshaft?' I would like to know how he crammed the Vredestein in the boot pocket. Bob On 11/13/2017 7:19 AM, Jean Caron wrote: > > Gary, > > Difficult to predict, but judging by the comments section, there is a > lot of excitement about this car. From the outside it presents well > and while there has been several modifications made to make it "more > driveable", not sure as to what has been done to the chassis/frame to > start with especially after it was a race car. Certainly does not > appear to have lots done to it since it is still painted black but > with very little photos of it, difficult to assess. > > But it sure looks good. > > > Jean > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > editorgary at aol.com > *Sent:* November 13, 2017 10:49 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] A very interesting BN2 > How much would you pay for this neatly modified 100? > > https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100-bn2-roadster-3/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2017-11-11 > > /Gary Anderson/ > Los Altos, California > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From abraund at siue.edu Mon Nov 13 14:43:45 2017 From: abraund at siue.edu (Braundmeier, A.) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 21:43:45 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net>, Here is the torque curve I've been using. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Mike S Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 4:57:11 PM To: David Nock; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Is there an easy way to determine the various installed ratios? I'm curious as to how my mph vs rpm stacks up. Also, is there a torque curve available (BJ8). Mike ________________________________ On 11/10/2017 1:44 PM, David Nock wrote: Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html Sentfrom my iPhone It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds 70/75 mph . Ed Orr '65 BJ8 3.54 28% '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 ________________________________ [AVG logo] This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: 1965_BJ8.txt URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Mon Nov 13 15:36:47 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 14:36:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> Thanks.? Just what I was looking for.? Anybody have data for lower than 3000 rpm?? Does the attached make sense? Mike On 11/13/2017 1:43 PM, Braundmeier, A. wrote: > > Here is the torque curve I've been using. > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Mike S > > *Sent:* Saturday, November 11, 2017 4:57:11 PM > *To:* David Nock; Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend > > > Is there an easy way to determine the various installed ratios? I'm > curious as to how my mph vs rpm stacks up.? Also, is there a torque > curve available (BJ8). > > Mike > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > On 11/10/2017 1:44 PM, David Nock wrote: >> Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm >> >> http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html >> >> Sentfrom my iPhone >> >> On Nov 10, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Ed Orr > >>> It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition >>> 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . >>> Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway >>> speeds 70/75 mph . >>> >>> Ed Orr >>> '65 BJ8 ?3.54 28% >>> '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell >>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM >>> To: Healeys >>> Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend >>> >>> Anyone running this setup? ?Pros? ?Cons? >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net >> > > -- > Mike > > MGTD (long gone) > BN1 (long gone) > BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) > BJ8 > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > AVG logo > > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. > www.avg.com > > -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BJ8 Power Curves.xls Type: application/vnd.ms-excel Size: 17408 bytes Desc: not available URL: From abraund at siue.edu Mon Nov 13 17:08:01 2017 From: abraund at siue.edu (Braundmeier, A.) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 00:08:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> , Close but the two curves only cross at 4900 RPM. Power is Torque * rotation speed; but be careful with units to get horsepower. Art ________________________________ From: Mike S Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 3:36:47 PM To: Braundmeier, A.; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Thanks. Just what I was looking for. Anybody have data for lower than 3000 rpm? Does the attached make sense? Mike On 11/13/2017 1:43 PM, Braundmeier, A. wrote: Here is the torque curve I've been using. ________________________________ Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 4:57:11 PM To: David Nock; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Is there an easy way to determine the various installed ratios? I'm curious as to how my mph vs rpm stacks up. Also, is there a torque curve available (BJ8). Mike ________________________________ On 11/10/2017 1:44 PM, David Nock wrote: Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html Sentfrom my iPhone It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds 70/75 mph . Ed Orr '65 BJ8 3.54 28% '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 ________________________________ [AVG logo] This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Nov 13 18:22:05 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 17:22:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rubber cover for BN2 fuel pump I bought one of these--Moss part@ 282-015--but haven't installed it, fearing it might cause the pump solenoid to overheat.? Anyone got one of these on a pump; problems? Bob From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 13 18:38:39 2017 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 20:38:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Poly bushings When I did my frame off restoration 5 years ago, I installed blue poly bushings on everything in my 67 BJ-8 . I live in Florida now , car always garaged, only put about 400 miles a year on the car , no rallying, Just car shows miles. My problem is the poly bushings are disintegrating. I?ve had to replace the leaf spring bushings, I used regular black ones from moss. Now the ones on my new leaf spring ends are crumbling. Is this a problem with poly bushings? If so am going to have to replace them all? Short money for the replacement bushings but a ton of work . Has anyone else experienced this ? I purchased them from AH Spares . Thanks , Don 67 BJ-8 Sent from my iPad From manifold at telus.net Mon Nov 13 21:04:08 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 20:04:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> EPZPeLRzyC2CsEPZQeGy4a Gentlemen, I don't often disagree with information posted on this board but the recent Excel chart of Hp and Torque is either a highly modified engine or wishful thinking. The published data for the Mk III is maximum power of 149 bhp at 5,250 rpm and maximum torque 173 lb. ft. at 3,000 rpm. I have attached a copy of a HP and Torque curve from a period publication I have. The attached chart has BHP, Torque and Brake Mean Effective Pressure for both a Mk II and Mk III Healey. If there is a 250 HP Healey engine out there that generated the curves on the spreadsheet please send pictures. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 2:37 PM To: Braundmeier, A.; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Thanks. Just what I was looking for. Anybody have data for lower than 3000 rpm? Does the attached make sense? Mike On 11/13/2017 1:43 PM, Braundmeier, A. wrote: Here is the torque curve I've been using. _____ on behalf of Mike S Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 4:57:11 PM To: David Nock; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Is there an easy way to determine the various installed ratios? I'm curious as to how my mph vs rpm stacks up. Also, is there a torque curve available (BJ8). Mike _____ On 11/10/2017 1:44 PM, David Nock wrote: Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html Sentfrom my iPhone On Nov 10, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Ed Orr wrote: It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds 70/75 mph . Ed Orr '65 BJ8 3.54 28% '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 _____ AVG logo This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: AH HP & Torque Graph.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 393152 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rick at ewilkins.com Mon Nov 13 22:57:33 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 21:57:33 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <001701d35a38$767390f0$635ab2d0$@sbcglobal.net> i have this setup and don?t understand what you mean by that comment. If anything, the overdrive ?seems" more effective even though rpm/travel speed ratio is still changed by the same proportion. the tradeoff is loss of low speed quickness, as the math shows. > On Nov 10, 2017, at 7:27 AM, John Spaur wrote: > > The tradeoff is the overdrive is not as effective however, the RPM's are > much lower at high speed. > > John > '62 BT7 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Nov 14 03:35:05 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 21:35:05 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots References: <1109209316.713488197.1510508641454.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <000001d35be0$ec5016f0$c4f044d0$@sbcglobal.net> Hello I have fitted the Hyundai boots to the 100 BN3 and it?s exactly the same as the original part. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: Monday, 13 November 2017 5:06 AM To: 'Tim Davis BN7'; 'Harold Manifold' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots Thanks Tim, I will check that out. However, it is on the connecting rod and it is more like a rubber washer. If it is a Hyundai part it is probably better than the reproduction. John From: Tim Davis BN7 [mailto:tld6008 at mchsi.com] Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2017 9:44 AM To: Harold Manifold Cc: 'John Spaur' ; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots If this is same size as tie rod ends see old message below <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Mr. Hess - For this type of stuff, always refer to John Sim's great website: http://www.healey6.com/replacement_parts.htm And towards the bottom of the list, you will see: Steering Rod Boot Hyundai Dealer Parts 56828-21010 Cover-Dust Tie Rod Apparently this boot is a carbon copy of the original. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'John Spaur' , 'Healeys' Sent: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 23:03:02 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots font-family: Cambria Math; } @font-face { font-family: Calibri; } @page WordSection1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in; } P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt } LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt } DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt } A:link { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #0563c1; mso-style-priority: 99 } SPAN.MsoHyperlink { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #0563c1; mso-style-priority: 99 } A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #954f72; mso-style-priority: 99 } SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #954f72; mso-style-priority: 99 } SPAN.EmailStyle17 { FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; COLOR: windowtext; mso-style-type: personal-compose } .MsoChpDefault { FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-style-type: export-only } DIV.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1 } John, I was able to source these through Moss but their catalogue was not clear. Match your tie rod ends to the pictures Moss has in there technical literature to get the right ones. In my case one tie rod had been replaced been years ago and was not OEM. Regards, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 6:05 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots Does anyone have a source they would share to obtain the correct rubber boot for the steering connector rod ball end? Thank you, John Spaur ?62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Tue Nov 14 04:47:47 2017 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 06:47:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots References: <1109209316.713488197.1510508641454.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> <000001d35be0$ec5016f0$c4f044d0$@sbcglobal.net> <03e401d35d34$3e117390$ba345ab0$@tpg.com.au> I have the Hyundai boots on my car. A few months ago I tried to order some more but had no luck. The word I got was that the part was no longer available. Has anyone gotten any of these lately? Lin Sent from my iPad > On Nov 14, 2017, at 5:35 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Hello > > I have fitted the Hyundai boots to the 100 BN3 and it?s exactly the same as the original part. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Spaur > Sent: Monday, 13 November 2017 5:06 AM > To: 'Tim Davis BN7'; 'Harold Manifold' > Cc: 'Healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots > > Thanks Tim, I will check that out. However, it is on the connecting rod and it is more like a rubber washer. > > If it is a Hyundai part it is probably better than the reproduction. > > John > > From: Tim Davis BN7 [mailto:tld6008 at mchsi.com] > Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2017 9:44 AM > To: Harold Manifold > Cc: 'John Spaur' ; 'Healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots > > If this is same size as tie rod ends see old message below > <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > Mr. Hess - > > For this type of stuff, always refer to John Sim's great website: > > http://www.healey6.com/replacement_parts.htm > > And towards the bottom of the list, you will see: > > Steering Rod Boot > Hyundai Dealer Parts > 56828-21010 > Cover-Dust Tie Rod > > Apparently this boot is a carbon copy of the original. > > > Tim Davis BN7 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Harold Manifold > To: 'John Spaur' , 'Healeys' > Sent: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 23:03:02 -0500 (EST) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots > > > > font-family: Cambria Math; > } > @font-face { > font-family: Calibri; > } > @page WordSection1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in; } > P.MsoNormal { > FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt > } > LI.MsoNormal { > FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt > } > DIV.MsoNormal { > FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt > } > A:link { > TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #0563c1; mso-style-priority: 99 > } > SPAN.MsoHyperlink { > TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #0563c1; mso-style-priority: 99 > } > A:visited { > TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #954f72; mso-style-priority: 99 > } > SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { > TEXT-DECORATION: underline; COLOR: #954f72; mso-style-priority: 99 > } > SPAN.EmailStyle17 { > FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; COLOR: windowtext; mso-style-type: personal-compose > } > .MsoChpDefault { > FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-style-type: export-only > } > DIV.WordSection1 { > page: WordSection1 > } > John, > > I was able to source these through Moss but their catalogue > was not clear. Match your tie rod ends to the pictures Moss has in there > technical literature to get the right ones. In my case one tie rod had been > replaced been years ago and was not OEM. > > Regards, > > Harold > > > > From: Healeys > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John > Spaur > Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 6:05 PM > To: > 'Healeys' > Subject: [Healeys] BT7 cross rod boots > > > Does anyone have a source they would share to obtain the > correct rubber boot for the steering connector rod ball end? > > Thank you, > John Spaur > ?62 BT7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From abraund at siue.edu Tue Nov 14 07:43:00 2017 From: abraund at siue.edu (Braundmeier, A.) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 14:43:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> EPZPeLRzyC2CsEPZQeGy4a, All, Since my data was the source of the Excel file, I went and tried to find my original source for that data. Couldn't find it on my current computer so I am abandoning that data. I'm sorry for any confusion. I did digitize the graph sent by Harold M and have attached a new Excel file showing the torque and HP for the Mk III derived from that graph. Art Braundmeier ________________________________ From: Harold Manifold Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 9:04:08 PM To: 'Mike S'; Braundmeier, A.; 'Healey List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Gentlemen, I don't often disagree with information posted on this board but the recent Excel chart of Hp and Torque is either a highly modified engine or wishful thinking. The published data for the Mk III is maximum power of 149 bhp at 5,250 rpm and maximum torque 173 lb. ft. at 3,000 rpm. I have attached a copy of a HP and Torque curve from a period publication I have. The attached chart has BHP, Torque and Brake Mean Effective Pressure for both a Mk II and Mk III Healey. If there is a 250 HP Healey engine out there that generated the curves on the spreadsheet please send pictures. Harold ________________________________ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 2:37 PM To: Braundmeier, A.; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Thanks. Just what I was looking for. Anybody have data for lower than 3000 rpm? Does the attached make sense? Mike On 11/13/2017 1:43 PM, Braundmeier, A. wrote: Here is the torque curve I've been using. ________________________________ Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 4:57:11 PM To: David Nock; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Is there an easy way to determine the various installed ratios? I'm curious as to how my mph vs rpm stacks up. Also, is there a torque curve available (BJ8). Mike ________________________________ On 11/10/2017 1:44 PM, David Nock wrote: Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html Sentfrom my iPhone It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds 70/75 mph . Ed Orr '65 BJ8 3.54 28% '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 ________________________________ [AVG logo] This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2017_11_14_18_40_38_BJ8 _ Torque_HP__MkIII_.xls Type: application/vnd.ms-excel Size: 45568 bytes Desc: 2017_11_14_18_40_38_BJ8 _ Torque_HP__MkIII_.xls URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2017_11_14_18_40_38_BJ8 _ Torque_HP__MkIII_.xlsx Type: application/vnd.openxmlformats-officedocument.spreadsheetml.sheet Size: 20976 bytes Desc: 2017_11_14_18_40_38_BJ8 _ Torque_HP__MkIII_.xlsx URL: From kags at shaw.ca Tue Nov 14 09:39:15 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 08:39:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Poly bushings References: Don: Interesting! I am currently dealing with exactly the same problem. I installed urethane suspension bushings in conjunction with a full restoration of my BJ8 which was completed 5 - 6 years ago. I did this because at the time, the quality of replacement rubber bushings was questionable. The bushings started to crumble - first the rear spring eye bushings which were replaced with whatever rubber ones that I could get, then the front upper trunion bushings - I noticed some blue coloured bits on the garage floor just inside of one of the wheels. Replaced them with rubber - they had to be modified (filed) to fit. Real crap! I had a close look at the lower a-arm bushings at that time - they seemed to be still okay, but I understandably don't trust them. So I am just beginning the research on the best quality rubber bushings that I can find, and will replace all the front ones on the car this winter, If anyone one this list can contribute information on Healey bushings, I would appreciate any input. In the opinion of all the people that have had a look at the removed bushings - there wasn't much left of the rear spring eye ones - they were simple poorly made. Wrong urethane formulation. I still have the remains of the upper trunion ones on my workbench, and can photograph them if anyone needs me to do that. These are Noltec crush tube style bushings from Australia - the company is no longer in business. Any comments sincerely appreciated! Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -----Original Message----- From: Don Day Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 5:38 PM To: healey list Subject: [Healeys] Poly bushings When I did my frame off restoration 5 years ago, I installed blue poly bushings on everything in my 67 BJ-8 . I live in Florida now , car always garaged, only put about 400 miles a year on the car , no rallying, Just car shows miles. My problem is the poly bushings are disintegrating. I?ve had to replace the leaf spring bushings, I used regular black ones from moss. Now the ones on my new leaf spring ends are crumbling. Is this a problem with poly bushings? If so am going to have to replace them all? Short money for the replacement bushings but a ton of work . Has anyone else experienced this ? I purchased them from AH Spares . Thanks , Don 67 BJ-8 Sent from my iPad From phoenix722 at comcast.net Tue Nov 14 09:45:51 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 08:45:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> Oh my, I've opened another barrel of snakes.? My BJ8 is sad to lose all that power she thought she had.? Thanks Harold for the info and Art for the graph. Mike ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On 11/14/2017 6:43 AM, Braundmeier, A. wrote: > > All, > > > Since my data was the source of the Excel file, I went and tried to > find my original source for that data.? Couldn't find it on my current > computer so I am abandoning that data.? I'm sorry for any confusion. > > > I did digitize the graph sent by Harold M and have attached a new > Excel file showing the torque and HP for the Mk III?derived from that > graph. > > > Art Braundmeier > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Harold Manifold > *Sent:* Monday, November 13, 2017 9:04:08 PM > *To:* 'Mike S'; Braundmeier, A.; 'Healey List' > *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend > Gentlemen, > I don't often disagree with information posted on this board but the > recent Excel chart of Hp and Torque is either a highly modified engine > or wishful thinking. The published data for the Mk III is maximum > power of 149 bhp at 5,250 rpm and maximum torque 173 lb. ft. at 3,000 > rpm. I have attached a copy of a HP and Torque curve from a period > publication I have. The attached chart has BHP, Torque and Brake Mean > Effective Pressure for both a Mk II and Mk III Healey. > If there is a 250 HP Healey engine out there that generated the curves > on the spreadsheet please send pictures. > Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Mike S > *Sent:* Monday, November 13, 2017 2:37 PM > *To:* Braundmeier, A.; Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend > > Thanks.? Just what I was looking for.? Anybody have data for lower > than 3000 rpm?? Does the attached make sense? > > > Mike > > > On 11/13/2017 1:43 PM, Braundmeier, A. wrote: >> >> Here is the torque curve I've been using. >> >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> *From:* Healeys >> *Sent:* Saturday, November 11, 2017 4:57:11 PM >> *To:* David Nock; Healey List >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend >> >> >> Is there an easy way to determine the various installed ratios?? I'm >> curious as to how my mph vs rpm stacks up. Also, is there a torque >> curve available (BJ8). >> >> Mike >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> On 11/10/2017 1:44 PM, David Nock wrote: >>> Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm >>> >>> http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html >>> >>> Sentfrom my iPhone >>> >>> On Nov 10, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Ed Orr >> >>>> It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first >>>> edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . >>>> Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at >>>> highway speeds 70/75 mph . >>>> >>>> Ed Orr >>>> '65 BJ8 ?3.54 28% >>>> '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) >>>> >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell >>>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM >>>> To: Healeys >>>> Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend >>>> >>>> Anyone running this setup? ?Pros? ?Cons? >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >>>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net >>> >> >> -- >> Mike >> >> MGTD (long gone) >> BN1 (long gone) >> BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) >> BJ8 >> >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> AVG logo >> >> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. >> www.avg.com >> >> > > -- > Mike > > MGTD (long gone) > BN1 (long gone) > BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) > BJ8 -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick at ewilkins.com Tue Nov 14 10:07:07 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 09:07:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B465F6@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> Just the messenger here, but the Toyota box with .783 5th gear is 22%. (100 - 78 = 22) I have a Toyota box Smitty kit not installed. Wilko > On Nov 10, 2017, at 8:19 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: > > Bob, > > I had this arrangement for about 30K miles. The OD was built by ORS in England with the 128% OD and a 1 ?? accumulator. With 165R15 Vredesteins 70 MPH was 2,700 RPM. Last year the OD started acting up. This was my third attempt at getting a reliable OD so I put in the Healey 5 Speed. The proper non-turbo Supra 5 speed has a 5th gear ratio of .783, which is precisely the same as the 128% OD. I now have the same high end gearing, but with a lot more reliability. If a car is to be driven a lot and for long tips, it is the way to go. > > Ed O?Neal > > > -----Original Message----- > Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:47 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend > > Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ed at wadsworthoneal.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick at ewilkins.com Tue Nov 14 11:17:07 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 10:17:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> <4451dd2b-23e4-0622-746c-358222aa2baa@comcast.net> I made up some charts years ago that show rpm over road speed using a couple different tire sizes. Here they are on my Healey page: http://ewilkins.com/wilko/healeygears.htm Wilko >>> >>> >>> >>> Is there an easy way to determine the various installed ratios? I'm curious as to how my mph vs rpm stacks up. Also, is there a torque curve available (BJ8). >>> >>> Mike >>> >>> On 11/10/2017 1:44 PM, David Nock wrote: >>>> Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Nov 14 11:26:33 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 19:26:33 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Poly bushings References: What make of poly-bushes? What was the material of the metal parts? Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-11-2017 om 2:38 schreef Don Day: > When I did my frame off restoration 5 years ago, I installed blue poly bushings on everything in my 67 BJ-8 . I live in Florida now , car always garaged, only put about 400 miles a year on the car , no rallying, Just car shows miles. My problem is the poly bushings are disintegrating. I?ve had to replace the leaf spring bushings, I used regular black ones from moss. Now the ones on my new leaf spring ends are crumbling. Is this a problem with poly bushings? If so am going to have to replace them all? Short money for the replacement bushings but a ton of work . Has anyone else experienced this ? I purchased them from AH Spares . > Thanks , Don 67 BJ-8 > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From editorgary at aol.com Tue Nov 14 14:54:12 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 16:54:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Another question about tires I'm currently researching an article on tires for the Austin-Healey magazine. Would people who are not currently using the original size tires (5.90/15 and 165/15) please tell me what tire size you are using and on what wheel width, and why you chose not to use the original size wheels and tires? Thanks for the information. G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Tue Nov 14 16:53:47 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 23:53:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Another question about tires References: <15fbc8680ae-c0f-456d@webjas-vac179.srv.aolmail.net> I am running Vredenstein 185 X 70x r15 on my BN7. Also using 72 spoke rims and inner tubes. When I needed tires 8 + years ago I did not find any satisfactory 165's readily available. As a "barn find" in your neighborhood of Los Altos, the car had 25 year old 165 Pirelli Cinturados With tubes. Tried to replicate but no luck. I don't recall what Coker was offering back then but I seem to think nothing that would work. Regards, Richard Collins BN7 #440 I'm currently researching an article on tires for the Austin-Healey magazine. Would people who are not currently using the original size tires (5.90/15 and 165/15) please tell me what tire size you are using and on what wheel width, and why you chose not to use the original size wheels and tires? Thanks for the information. G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 14 18:06:00 2017 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (Don Day) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 20:06:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Poly bushings References: <9d8d7099-30f6-ffc1-2c2d-de702b10bb7e@chello.nl> I got my poly bushings from AH Spares , so they would know the composition of them . I?m just the guy buying them . I installed them onto my original 67 BJ-8 Phase II metal parts. Thank you for being interested as I?m thinking I?m not the only amateur restoration person that has this problem. What do the Curt Tanners or other top restoration guys do ? Thanks Again Don Sent from my iPad > On Nov 14, 2017, at 1:26 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > > What make of poly-bushes? What was the material of the metal parts? > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 14-11-2017 om 2:38 schreef Don Day: >> When I did my frame off restoration 5 years ago, I installed blue poly bushings on everything in my 67 BJ-8 . I live in Florida now , car always garaged, only put about 400 miles a year on the car , no rallying, Just car shows miles. My problem is the poly bushings are disintegrating. I?ve had to replace the leaf spring bushings, I used regular black ones from moss. Now the ones on my new leaf spring ends are crumbling. Is this a problem with poly bushings? If so am going to have to replace them all? Short money for the replacement bushings but a ton of work . Has anyone else experienced this ? I purchased them from AH Spares . >> Thanks , Don 67 BJ-8 >> Sent from my iPad >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Tue Nov 14 18:50:20 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 20:50:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Another question about tires References: <15fbc8680ae-c0f-456d@webjas-vac179.srv.aolmail.net> Gary, I now run Vredestein Sprints in the original size of 165x15 on my BT7. However, for many years I used Pirelli Cinturato 185x15 tyres. This was probably because this is what the former owner used (he was the first owner of the car). I recall him telling me he bought them used from a friend and they came off a MkII Jag. When I replaced them I bought the same size. I ran them far too long, probably 20 years, before getting the Sprints. I like the way the 185s filled the wheel wells and they ran and handled just fine. I recall that the passenger side tyre just caught the inner wheel well on full left lock, and when I heard it rubbing I would unwind the steering a tad. Bottom line, I think it was mostly aesthetics for me. Regards, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Collins Sent: November-14-17 6:54 PM To: editorgary at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another question about tires I am running Vredenstein 185 X 70x r15 on my BN7. Also using 72 spoke rims and inner tubes. When I needed tires 8 + years ago I did not find any satisfactory 165's readily available. As a "barn find" in your neighborhood of Los Altos, the car had 25 year old 165 Pirelli Cinturados With tubes. Tried to replicate but no luck. I don't recall what Coker was offering back then but I seem to think nothing that would work. Regards, Richard Collins BN7 #440 On Nov 14, 2017, at 5:18 PM, "editorgary at aol.com" wrote: I'm currently researching an article on tires for the Austin-Healey magazine. Would people who are not currently using the original size tires (5.90/15 and 165/15) please tell me what tire size you are using and on what wheel width, and why you chose not to use the original size wheels and tires? Thanks for the information. G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Nov 14 20:03:28 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 22:03:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Car haulers For some reason I can not get to old list threads. Anyway looking for the thread about recommendations for enclosed car haulers from California to Pennsylvania. Looks like I'm buying back one of my old Nasteyboy Healeys, I have used Reliable before so other recommendations please. Thanks Perry Sent from my iPhone From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Tue Nov 14 20:13:00 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2017 16:13:00 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Poly bushings References: <9d8d7099-30f6-ffc1-2c2d-de702b10bb7e@chello.nl> I put the blue polybushes from AHS in and regardless of how much lube I put on they squeaked irritatingly after a short period. Replaced them with ones from Tom Monaco and haven't had any issues since. http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=2&new=1 He doesn't do the spring eye ones though so I put good/used original ones back in Andy. On 11/15/17, Don Day wrote: > I got my poly bushings from AH Spares , so they would know the composition > of them . I?m just the guy buying them . I installed them onto my original > 67 BJ-8 Phase II metal parts. > Thank you for being interested as I?m thinking I?m not the only amateur > restoration person that has this problem. What do the Curt Tanners or other > top restoration guys do ? > Thanks Again Don > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Nov 14, 2017, at 1:26 PM, Oudesluys wrote: >> >> What make of poly-bushes? What was the material of the metal parts? >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> Op 14-11-2017 om 2:38 schreef Don Day: >>> When I did my frame off restoration 5 years ago, I installed blue poly >>> bushings on everything in my 67 BJ-8 . I live in Florida now , car always >>> garaged, only put about 400 miles a year on the car , no rallying, Just >>> car shows miles. My problem is the poly bushings are disintegrating. I?ve >>> had to replace the leaf spring bushings, I used regular black ones from >>> moss. Now the ones on my new leaf spring ends are crumbling. Is this a >>> problem with poly bushings? If so am going to have to replace them all? >>> Short money for the replacement bushings but a ton of work . Has anyone >>> else experienced this ? I purchased them from AH Spares . >>> Thanks , Don 67 BJ-8 >>> Sent from my iPad >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austinhealeyslist at gmail.com > > From kags at shaw.ca Tue Nov 14 20:14:40 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 19:14:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Another question about tires References: <15fbc8680ae-c0f-456d@webjas-vac179.srv.aolmail.net> Gary: Tri-carb: Vredestein 185 70 R 15 on Dayton 457F wheels ( 72 spoke, 5? , tubeless) These are the older version of the tire with the really ?busy? crap on the sidewall. I?ve never had an issue with the tubeless configuration. BJ8: Vredestein 185 70 R 15 on Dayton 457F wheels ( 72 spoke 5? with tubes ? they were ordered tubeless but were so badly made that Alan Hendrix had to true them, and we decided to use tubes rather than try to re-seal them. These are the newer version of the tire and I believe are still current if you can find them. Both were chosen as being the best alternative available at the time that they were needed. They are not too bad, have been reliable etc. If I were buying now, I would probably go for the Michelin 165 15 XAS ? the 180 75 15 XAS is simply too ?big? in my opinion, doesn?t quite look right in the wheel well. Too bad that the Michelin 175 15 is long out of production ? they were a perfect size for the big Healey ? as close as you could get to the old 590 15?s. As a matter of personal preference, I have always favoured the stronger 72 spoke wheels over the 48?s and 60?s. I don?t mind the look, and chances are they will never need to be trued. Each to his own. Cheers, -- Earl Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: editorgary at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2017 1:54 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Another question about tires I'm currently researching an article on tires for the Austin-Healey magazine. Would people who are not currently using the original size tires (5.90/15 and 165/15) please tell me what tire size you are using and on what wheel width, and why you chose not to use the original size wheels and tires? Thanks for the information. G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue Nov 14 20:49:47 2017 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2017 03:49:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Another question about tires References: <15fbc8680ae-c0f-456d@webjas-vac179.srv.aolmail.net> , <00e101d35db4$18a99620$49fcc260$@sympatico.ca> My Vredestein 185HR15s were just delivered by UPS. I decided to go with these tires because they should not rub as much as my 195/60-15 Michelins did and they are a full 2" taller which means my belly won't be rubbing the ground as much. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Mirek Sharp Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 1:50:20 AM To: editorgary at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another question about tires Gary, I now run Vredestein Sprints in the original size of 165x15 on my BT7. However, for many years I used Pirelli Cinturato 185x15 tyres. This was probably because this is what the former owner used (he was the first owner of the car). I recall him telling me he bought them used from a friend and they came off a MkII Jag. When I replaced them I bought the same size. I ran them far too long, probably 20 years, before getting the Sprints. I like the way the 185s filled the wheel wells and they ran and handled just fine. I recall that the passenger side tyre just caught the inner wheel well on full left lock, and when I heard it rubbing I would unwind the steering a tad. Bottom line, I think it was mostly aesthetics for me. Regards, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Collins Sent: November-14-17 6:54 PM To: editorgary at aol.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Another question about tires I am running Vredenstein 185 X 70x r15 on my BN7. Also using 72 spoke rims and inner tubes. When I needed tires 8 + years ago I did not find any satisfactory 165's readily available. As a "barn find" in your neighborhood of Los Altos, the car had 25 year old 165 Pirelli Cinturados With tubes. Tried to replicate but no luck. I don't recall what Coker was offering back then but I seem to think nothing that would work. Regards, Richard Collins BN7 #440 I'm currently researching an article on tires for the Austin-Healey magazine. Would people who are not currently using the original size tires (5.90/15 and 165/15) please tell me what tire size you are using and on what wheel width, and why you chose not to use the original size wheels and tires? Thanks for the information. G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Tue Nov 14 22:17:09 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 21:17:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?28=25_OD_with_3=2E54_rearend?= Overdrive calculation for the Toyota Supra box: 1 / .783 = 1.277 - i.e. 28% overdrive. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA, USA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Nov 15 01:54:58 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2017 19:54:58 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> That's the torque curve from my car! It's not a standard engine. http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html Best Chris Dimmock. Sent from my iPhone > On 14 Nov 2017, at 9:36 am, Mike S wrote: > > Thanks. Just what I was looking for. Anybody have data for lower than 3000 rpm? Does the attached make sense? > > > Mike > >> On 11/13/2017 1:43 PM, Braundmeier, A. wrote: >> Here is the torque curve I've been using. >> >> >> >> From: Healeys on behalf of Mike S >> Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2017 4:57:11 PM >> To: David Nock; Healey List >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend >> >> >> Is there an easy way to determine the various installed ratios? I'm curious as to how my mph vs rpm stacks up. Also, is there a torque curve available (BJ8). >> >> Mike >> >>> On 11/10/2017 1:44 PM, David Nock wrote: >>> Check out this site. Put the info in and you will know you speed and rpm >>> >>> http://www.angelfire.com/fl/procrastination/rear.html >>> >>> Sentfrom my iPhone >>> >>> On Nov 10, 2017, at 8:27 AM, Ed Orr wrote: >>> >>>> It's all positive Bob been running this since Lemperts first edition 3.54 about 10 years ago or so . >>>> Lots of power to start off in 2nd gear and about 2700 rpm at highway speeds 70/75 mph . >>>> >>>> Ed Orr >>>> '65 BJ8 3.54 28% >>>> '66 BJ8 3.54 28% (for sale) >>>> >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell >>>> Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:46 PM >>>> To: Healeys >>>> Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend >>>> >>>> Anyone running this setup? Pros? Cons? >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eorr at cogeco.ca >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >>>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net >>> >> >> -- >> Mike >> >> MGTD (long gone) >> BN1 (long gone) >> BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) >> BJ8 >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ggilliam at usol.com Sat Nov 11 07:06:25 2017 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2017 09:06:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 H4 SU rebuild References: <927176848.10035491.1510257620279.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <927176848.10035491.1510257620279@mail.yahoo.com> <1510297235090.7274906.7e30ca2cc05ae341a5779bd53c70fba700e9146a@spica.telekom.de> Thomas Bryant in Maine sells teflon O-ring sets for the SU carbs, very reasonable cost...just google him... I used them, no leaks! Gordy Longbridge BN4 On 2017-11-10 13:10, A H List wrote: > Hi Mike, > > There are Teflon orings available to replace the cork- you will > eliminate the fuel leaking from the jets completely that way. McMaster > sell them for a few dollars, two go in place of each cork ring (four > total) and no more leaks. > https://www.mcmaster.com/#9559k15/=1a73gao > > Also, if you don't have one, get yourself a jet aligning tool. Moss > sells a kit with a jet wrench and aligning tool for a few dollars, > well worth it. The problem is that the carb body indents where the > last jet was tightened up and when you tighten the new jet up it will > tend to want to slip into the old location. The jet tool is a rigid > bar that holds the jet in the correct position while you tighten the > nut. > > Andy. > > On 11/10/17, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: >> Hi Mike, >> soak the cork jet seals in engine oil for at least one day before you >> fit >> them. Do the fit and centreing of the jets carefully. It a little >> fiddle, >> as you need to fit the damper and damper domes first before. Then >> check the >> >> move of the damper and to hhear a "plop" when it reached the down >> position. >> Adjust the float level correctly, use a 11mm drill. >> >> Josef Eckert >> Konigswinter/Germany >> >> >> >> -----Original-Nachricht----- >> Betreff: [Healeys] BN2 H4 SU rebuild >> Datum: 2017-11-09T22:39:38+0100 >> Von: "mike brooks" >> An: "healeys at autox.team.net" >> >> >> >> Just got the two H4 SU carb bodies back from Burlen after they have >> rebushed the throttle spindles and fitted new spindles and discs. I'm >> doing >> >> the rest of the rebuild myself, using Burlen's rebuild kits. Does >> anyone >> who's done this themselves have any tips or tricks for me? >> >> Thanks >> >> Mike Brooks >> '56 BN2 >> Scotland >> >> >> ? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ggilliam at usol.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Nov 12 19:31:27 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2017 10:31:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. References: <20171105074523.WNYWF.8819.root@pamxwww04-z01> <31e97a9d-9692-65bd-4289-7504e1bbead8@comcast.net> <00e801d35b6d$620b31a0$262194e0$@sympatico.ca> I'll take the under bet, thanks. On Sun, Nov 12, 2017 at 12:19 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > Hideous is another. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike S > Sent: November-11-17 6:58 PM > To: Tom Felts; Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Goldie goes on sale for record estimate. > > Just the word I had in mind. > > Mike > > > On 11/5/2017 4:45 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > > Tacky comes to mind. > > > > tom > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > > > > > > -- > Mike > > MGTD (long gone) > BN1 (long gone) > BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) > BJ8 > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > http://www.avg.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Tue Nov 14 06:56:33 2017 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2017 13:56:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Why my Healey parts aren't selling on ebay Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM https://www.ebay.com/itm/Austin-Healey-Spindles-Stub-Axles-convert-Big-Healey-Drum-Brakes-To-Disc-100-6/322881000775?hash=item4b2d351547:g:vxsAAOSwcaFZHgH~&vxp=mtr [http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/322881000775-0-1/s-l1000.jpg] Austin Healey Spindles Stub Axles,(convert Big Healey Drum Brakes To Disc),100 6 | eBay www.ebay.com If you have the old drum style brakes ,YOU KNOW they are "risky " at best! The lower a-arms were not usable & have been cut off. | eBay! Sent from Outlook -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Wed Nov 15 09:18:10 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2017 11:18:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Why my Healey parts aren't selling on ebay References: If you check out his other auctions and click through the photos it appears he is also running some kind of trade in young Eastern European girls in addition to auto parts. On Tue, Nov 14, 2017 at 8:56 AM, Henry A. Morrison wrote: > Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/Austin-Healey-Spindles-Stub- > Axles-convert-Big-Healey-Drum-Brakes-To-Disc-100-6/322881000775?hash= > item4b2d351547:g:vxsAAOSwcaFZHgH~&vxp=mtr > > > > Austin Healey Spindles Stub Axles,(convert Big Healey Drum Brakes To > Disc),100 6 | eBay > > www.ebay.com > If you have the old drum style brakes ,YOU KNOW they are "risky " at best! > The lower a-arms were not usable & have been cut off. | eBay! > > > > > Sent from Outlook > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Nov 15 09:54:14 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2017 08:54:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/1963-austin-healey-3000-mkii Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Nov 15 10:18:53 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2017 17:18:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> <2677988F-C5D1-4E64-B4F4-FB367FDF2C03@gmail.com> Chris,? ? ?How are your Noltec bushings holding up?? I only ask as someone on the list is having a problem with them disintegrating in short order.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Nov 15, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Wed Nov 15 14:42:00 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2017 13:42:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice References: I quote: ?a bare metal respray in the unusual and attractive colour combination of Mustard over Ivory?? ?Unusual? I?ll grant it, but I don?t think I?ve ever heard ?attractive? and ?Mustard? in the same sentence when it comes to paint color. Clearly not done by someone familiar with Healeys; look at the engine and surroundings. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 8:54 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/1963-austin-healey-3000-mkii Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Nov 15 16:34:59 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey]) Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2017 10:34:59 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> <2677988F-C5D1-4E64-B4F4-FB367FDF2C03@gmail.com> <620035291.550584.1510766333940@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mike, Noltec bushings - its a long story, but here's a short background. The guy who pretty much pioneered urethane suspension bushings here in Australia was Greg Nolan. His first business was Nolathane. Their bushings were red in colour, and this was the early 1990's He sold that business, and started again in the early 2000's, called himself Noltec, and made Blue and/or black busings. Being a long time BMC sportscar racer - he didn't mind making things like Healey bushes - because he cared and was an enthusiast himself. He sold thousands more e.g. Mazda MX5 Miata bushings than Healey - but he's an enthusiast, and it wasn't all about the money. Nolathane still make bushings - but they don't/ won't make them for Healeys anymore because theyr'e more of a corporate, bottom line focussed enterprise. Ok - thats the history lesson over. So in 1998, the only bushings available were Nolathane red ones. They did many bushings for Healeys - but not all of them - you couldn't do all the bushings on a BJ8 all in urethane My car still has some red Nolathane bushes in e.g. the front wishbones, and they are still fine. i also have some new old stock Nolathane which have sat in a drawer for 20 years - they are fine too. Photo attached When Greg started Noltec, he made all the same Healey bushings that Nolathane made, plus he made the ones Nolathane didn't. Here's the weird part. SOME of the Noltec bushes turned to a chalky cheese within about 5 - 6 years. Some others are fine.See Pics Over the past 19 years, I've replaced Noltec engine and gearbox mounts, rear spring and rear shock bushes (which turned to chalky cheese). Some I've just had made in graphite impregated nylon, rather than urethane. Yet - some old Noltec ones are still good. Here are some pics of packets that have sat in the same drawer - out of UV light - for 19 years. Red is nolathane. Blue, and chalky white cheese are Noltec. So - I don't know. Some are fine - some aren't. If they are still blue, they are fine., The red ones are fine. But some turn to chalky cheese..... BTW, when I replaced my engine and gearbox mounts with Urethane, in 2000, the 2 year old brand new rubber ones fitted in 1998 were delaminated and split. So the Urethane outlasted the rubber that was available in 1998.. Best Chris ? PS the white ones can be crumbled like old cheese between 2 fingers..... On Thu, Nov 16, 2017 at 4:18 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Chris, > How are your Noltec bushings holding up? I only ask as someone on > the list is having a problem with them disintegrating in short order. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Wed, Nov 15, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Chris Dimmock > wrote: > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: nolathane-45109-bushes.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 108721 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: noltec-47126-bushes.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 113841 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: noltec-45109-bushes.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 103995 bytes Desc: not available URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed Nov 15 16:58:26 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2017 18:58:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice References: Ahh yes, the raw egg combo. Very popular back in the ?.? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: November-15-17 11:54 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/1963-austin-healey-3000-mkii Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB Image removed by sender. MG A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD000.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Nov 15 19:11:35 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2017 18:11:35 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice References: <0b2101d35e5a$934ad960$b9e08c20$@roadrunner.com> I think the guy ran out of money during their Taxi cab conversion and had to sell the car Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Nov 15, 2017 at 1:42 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > I quote: ?a bare metal respray in the unusual and attractive colour > combination of Mustard over Ivory?? ?Unusual? I?ll grant it, but I don?t > think I?ve ever heard ?attractive? and ?Mustard? in the same sentence when > it comes to paint color. Clearly not done by someone familiar with > Healeys; look at the engine and surroundings. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i > erbs > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 15, 2017 8:54 AM > *To:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* [Healeys] questionable color choice > > > > https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/1963-austin-healey-3000-mkii > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Wed Nov 15 21:43:42 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2017 23:43:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice Looks like a "Sunny side up" fried egg on wheels Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: i erbs To: Bruce Steele Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Wed, Nov 15, 2017 10:58 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] questionable color choice I think the guy ran out of money during their Taxi cab conversion and had to sell the car Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB ? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Nov 15, 2017 at 1:42 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: I quote: ?a bare metal respray in the unusual and attractive colour combination of Mustard over Ivory??? ?Unusual? I?ll grant it, but I don?t think I?ve ever heard ?attractive? and ?Mustard? in the same sentence when it comes to paint color.? Clearly not done by someone familiar with Healeys; look at the engine and surroundings. ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 8:54 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice ? https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/1963-austin-healey-3000-mkii Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes ? ? 1967 MGB ? ? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Thu Nov 16 00:39:16 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2017 07:39:16 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice References: <0b2101d35e5a$934ad960$b9e08c20$@roadrunner.com> Leaving aside their second paragraph, you could at least be thankful that they didn?t gold plate the bumpers etc! Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: 15 November 2017 21:42 To: 'i erbs'; 'Ahealey help' Subject: Re: [Healeys] questionable color choice I quote: ?a bare metal respray in the unusual and attractive colour combination of Mustard over Ivory?? ?Unusual? I?ll grant it, but I don?t think I?ve ever heard ?attractive? and ?Mustard? in the same sentence when it comes to paint color. Clearly not done by someone familiar with Healeys; look at the engine and surroundings. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 8:54 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/1963-austin-healey-3000-mkii Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB MG A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Thu Nov 16 08:28:05 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2017 15:28:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice References: <0b2101d35e5a$934ad960$b9e08c20$@roadrunner.com> Should have had a green top for the lettuce. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 4:42 PM To: 'i erbs'; 'Ahealey help' Subject: Re: [Healeys] questionable color choice I quote: ?a bare metal respray in the unusual and attractive colour combination of Mustard over Ivory?? ?Unusual? I?ll grant it, but I don?t think I?ve ever heard ?attractive? and ?Mustard? in the same sentence when it comes to paint color. Clearly not done by someone familiar with Healeys; look at the engine and surroundings. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 8:54 AM Subject: [Healeys] questionable color choice https://www.silverstoneauctions.com/1963-austin-healey-3000-mkii Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kags at shaw.ca Thu Nov 16 09:24:41 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2017 08:24:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend References: <0B893098-DBC7-4713-8E3F-DEE9095B60FA@sbcglobal.net> <2677988F-C5D1-4E64-B4F4-FB367FDF2C03@gmail.com> <620035291.550584.1510766333940@mail.yahoo.com> Gents: I definitely got ?chalky cheese? Noltecs! At least for the rear spring eye and front upper trunion bushings. The lower A ? arm bushings are still on the car, and what can be seen still looks okay. The problem is that not much can be seen of them ? they are mostly hidden by the A ? arm mounting pockets on the frame. Under the circumstances, I don?t trust them and will replace them ? with rubber ? this winter. At this point, all I?m doing is attempting to see if there are better quality rubber bushings out there It appears not ? looks like everyone is selling the same product ? probably only one manufacturer. One commercial Austin ? Healey restoration shop has indicated that they have not had any trouble with rubber bushings in the last few years. They have also indicated that they are leery of urethane suspension bushings for Healey?s ? material deterioration, squeeks, harsh feeling ride, and frame cracks from the harder ones. Don ? a lot of people here have used the Polybush brand from AH Spares in the UK ? other suppliers probably carry them as well. Most people have not had rouble with them, a few will change back to rubber because of the harsher ride feel with urethane (polyurethane). As I recall, the rear spring shackle bushings installed on my BJ8 are Polybush brand ? blue urethane. When we had the springs out recently to do the front eye bushing replacement, we re-installed the shackle bushings ? not a thing wrong with them. I?ll be ordering up a set of rubber front bushings for the BJ8 soonish, and will do the work over the winter. Pain in the butt to have to re & re the front end again so soon, but that?s the way these things go. As a matter of interest, my tri-carb ? a very original and unmolested ( gold level concours car) car ? has all of it?s original rubber suspension bushings still installed. We keep close watch on everything, but so far it?s all okay ? still rides and handles quite well at approx. 100 K miles. Amazing! The only thing that was changed were the front roll bar mounting pin bushings, which eliminated the almost monthly replacement of the rubber ones. They?re still there after 20 or so years. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Chris Dimmock [Healey] Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 3:34 PM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 28% OD with 3.54 rearend Hi Mike, Noltec bushings - its a long story, but here's a short background. The guy who pretty much pioneered urethane suspension bushings here in Australia was Greg Nolan. His first business was Nolathane. Their bushings were red in colour, and this was the early 1990's He sold that business, and started again in the early 2000's, called himself Noltec, and made Blue and/or black busings. Being a long time BMC sportscar racer - he didn't mind making things like Healey bushes - because he cared and was an enthusiast himself. He sold thousands more e.g. Mazda MX5 Miata bushings than Healey - but he's an enthusiast, and it wasn't all about the money. Nolathane still make bushings - but they don't/ won't make them for Healeys anymore because theyr'e more of a corporate, bottom line focussed enterprise. Ok - thats the history lesson over. So in 1998, the only bushings available were Nolathane red ones. They did many bushings for Healeys - but not all of them - you couldn't do all the bushings on a BJ8 all in urethane My car still has some red Nolathane bushes in e.g. the front wishbones, and they are still fine. i also have some new old stock Nolathane which have sat in a drawer for 20 years - they are fine too. Photo attached When Greg started Noltec, he made all the same Healey bushings that Nolathane made, plus he made the ones Nolathane didn't. Here's the weird part. SOME of the Noltec bushes turned to a chalky cheese within about 5 - 6 years. Some others are fine.See Pics Over the past 19 years, I've replaced Noltec engine and gearbox mounts, rear spring and rear shock bushes (which turned to chalky cheese). Some I've just had made in graphite impregated nylon, rather than urethane. Yet - some old Noltec ones are still good. Here are some pics of packets that have sat in the same drawer - out of UV light - for 19 years. Red is nolathane. Blue, and chalky white cheese are Noltec. So - I don't know. Some are fine - some aren't. If they are still blue, they are fine., The red ones are fine. But some turn to chalky cheese..... BTW, when I replaced my engine and gearbox mounts with Urethane, in 2000, the 2 year old brand new rubber ones fitted in 1998 were delaminated and split. So the Urethane outlasted the rubber that was available in 1998.. Best Chris ? PS the white ones can be crumbled like old cheese between 2 fingers..... On Thu, Nov 16, 2017 at 4:18 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: Chris, How are your Noltec bushings holding up? I only ask as someone on the list is having a problem with them disintegrating in short order. Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Nov 15, 2017 at 7:18 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: noltec-47126-bushes.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 113841 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: noltec-45109-bushes.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 103995 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: nolathane-45109-bushes.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 108721 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Fri Nov 17 18:12:05 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2017 20:12:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Shock Oil - BJ8 What oil should I use in my BJ8 shocks? Is it something that I can pick up at the local auto parts store or is it something special that needs to be ordered? Thanks in advance for your advice and help. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Fri Nov 17 20:22:02 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2017 16:22:02 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Shock Oil - BJ8 References: <000f01d3600a$41344380$c39cca80$@nc.rr.com> SAE20 motorcycle front fork oil works well. Any bike shop will have something suitable On 11/18/17, Bob Simmen wrote: > What oil should I use in my BJ8 shocks? Is it something that I can pick up > at the local auto parts store or is it something special that needs to be > ordered? > > > > Thanks in advance for your advice and help. > > > > Bob > > From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Nov 17 22:41:17 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2017 06:41:17 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] Shock Oil - BJ8 References: <000f01d3600a$41344380$c39cca80$@nc.rr.com> I get the 'official' Armstrong lever shock oil from Moss. Fork oil, jack oil, etc. may work fine and cost less, and I may be pissing money away, but it's not expensive and--unless your shocks are leaking badly--a pint should last a long time. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > On November 18, 2017 at 4:22 AM A H List wrote: > > > SAE20 motorcycle front fork oil works well. Any bike shop will have > something suitable > > On 11/18/17, Bob Simmen wrote: > > > > What oil should I use in my BJ8 shocks? Is it something that I can pick up > > at the local auto parts store or is it something special that needs to be > > ordered? > > > > > > > > Thanks in advance for your advice and help. > > > > > > > > Bob > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Fri Nov 17 23:08:54 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2017 22:08:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Shock Oil - BJ8 I have half a bottle of genuine Armstrong shock oil. Make me an offer.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob Simmen Date: 11/17/17 5:12 PM (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Shock Oil - BJ8 What oil should I use in my BJ8 shocks?? Is it something that I can pick up at the local auto parts store or is it something special that needs to be ordered??Thanks in advance for your advice and help.?Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Sat Nov 18 05:15:52 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2017 07:15:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Shock Oil - BJ8 References: <000f01d3600a$41344380$c39cca80$@nc.rr.com> Thanks everyone for your response. I will be going with either AW 46 Hydraulic Oil or 15W Fork Oil. Thanks again! Bob From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Simmen Sent: Friday, November 17, 2017 8:12 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Shock Oil - BJ8 What oil should I use in my BJ8 shocks? Is it something that I can pick up at the local auto parts store or is it something special that needs to be ordered? Thanks in advance for your advice and help. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat Nov 18 18:01:41 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2017 17:01:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Door latch attachment The interior door release has come adrift, and upon inspection I find that the T fitting is missing; there is just a hole in the release lever on the latch mechanism. I've no clue how it was attached previously, but I'm guessing that it was not with the original T fitting. Any ideas on how I can repair this? I've loosened the door trim, and can get to the screws holding the latch mechanism to the interior door frame, but how does the exterior handle tie into the latch mechanism? I've no clue how this all goes together. Thanks. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Nov 19 11:50:13 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2017 10:50:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Block Filler for Healey Engine I would like advise and comments about the pros and cons of partially filling the water jacket with engine block filler on a Healey 3000 engine. For those who have not aware of this process here is a website for one the products: http://www.hardblok.com/ The engine I have was sitting idle for 35 years without draining any of the coolant and I am concerned corrosion may have reduced the material thickness between the oil gallery and the water jacket. I am contemplating filling the block to just below the frost plugs primarily to reduce the chance engine oil under pressure can migrate through porous parts of the block and into the cooling water jacket. Pros Second barrier between oil gallery and water jacket Stiffens the bottom of the piston sleeves Keeps cylinders walls from flexing Reduces blow by and piston wear Cons Reduces coolant volume Reduces contact area between piston sleeves and water jacket Cannot be removed There is no going back if I decide to do this and I am wondering if the risk is worth the reward. Your comments are appreciated. Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From varley at cosmos.net.au Sun Nov 19 14:35:55 2017 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2017 08:35:55 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Block Filler for Healey Engine References: <9CA1A0163D774ABD803117F78E998014@AllInOne> Hi Harold. Rather than doing this, if you have concerns, I would have the block vacuum impregnated instead. In Australia it is a process from Loctite and it can seal some major porosity. I used it successfully for many aluminum castings in business that we made that were subject to over 100 PSI air pressure, and it sealed all of them every time. Recently I had a Healey alloy sump vacuum impregnated that was full of porosity and it sealed it fine. I would think there will be people doing it in most countries. I would get the block hot tank cleaned first. Regards Larry Varley -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jvwojcik at comcast.net Sun Nov 19 15:12:56 2017 From: jvwojcik at comcast.net (Jim Wojcik) Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2017 16:12:56 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Block Filler for Healey Engine References: <9CA1A0163D774ABD803117F78E998014@AllInOne> Harold, I am not sure about the situation you describe, but I can tell you that after a 10 year chase to stop oil from getting into the coolant in my BN7 using multiple head gaskets and the Southern Carburetor drilling kit, etc., Hardblok did the job perfectly. Attached is an image of where my builder put it, rolling the block to place the product where he deduced the seepage came through. In this specific use, I do not think there was much change in heat transfer. Jim Wojcik, MN From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Sunday, November 19, 2017 12:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Engine Block Filler for Healey Engine I would like advise and comments about the pros and cons of partially filling the water jacket with engine block filler on a Healey 3000 engine. For those who have not aware of this process here is a website for one the products: http://www.hardblok.com/ The engine I have was sitting idle for 35 years without draining any of the coolant and I am concerned corrosion may have reduced the material thickness between the oil gallery and the water jacket. I am contemplating filling the block to just below the frost plugs primarily to reduce the chance engine oil under pressure can migrate through porous parts of the block and into the cooling water jacket. Pros Second barrier between oil gallery and water jacket Stiffens the bottom of the piston sleeves Keeps cylinders walls from flexing Reduces blow by and piston wear Cons Reduces coolant volume Reduces contact area between piston sleeves and water jacket Cannot be removed There is no going back if I decide to do this and I am wondering if the risk is worth the reward. Your comments are appreciated. Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: block repair.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 835653 bytes Desc: not available URL: From goldengt at cal.net Sun Nov 19 15:15:02 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2017 14:15:02 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Mick Marston The owner/financier of the original Huffaker Healey has passed away, last week. RIP Mick Marston. He remained a keen Healey enthusiast. Ken Freese?AH Racing Historian? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Nov 19 18:29:14 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2017 12:29:14 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Block Filler for Healey Engine References: <9CA1A0163D774ABD803117F78E998014@AllInOne> <000901d3617e$62fdf360$28f9da20$@cosmos.net.au> Hello I have had the early C-series block in the BN3 vacuum impregnated with Loctite here in Sydney and it's just fine. Cost about $100 plus transport to and from. Filling the water jackets with a concrete like substance would in my mind be asking for overheating problems. The C-series needs every drop of coolant it can possible have. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Varley Sent: Monday, 20 November 2017 8:36 AM To: 'Harold Manifold' Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Block Filler for Healey Engine Hi Harold. Rather than doing this, if you have concerns, I would have the block vacuum impregnated instead. In Australia it is a process from Loctite and it can seal some major porosity. I used it successfully for many aluminum castings in business that we made that were subject to over 100 PSI air pressure, and it sealed all of them every time. Recently I had a Healey alloy sump vacuum impregnated that was full of porosity and it sealed it fine. I would think there will be people doing it in most countries. I would get the block hot tank cleaned first. Regards Larry Varley -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Tue Nov 21 09:00:25 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2017 11:00:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 piston sources I will be purchasing a set of pistons for a 100 engine in the near future & am interested in your suggestions concerning sources. I am planning on a compression ratio of 9.5 to 10.0:1 I would prefer forged pistons & am anticipating needing to bore at least .030" over, maybe more. Denis Welch does not offer forged pistons larger that 88 mm which might not be large enough. 88mm = 3.4646" - 3.4375" (std. bore) = .0271" difference Any suggestions you have will be appreciated. Gary Hodson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Tue Nov 21 09:05:38 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2017 11:05:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine color(s) My 2006 copy of the concours guidelines indicates that the early 100 engine may have been Morris green. Is this the same dark green that I have seen on 100S engines? Is there a know source for the 100S engine color? Gary Hodson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Tue Nov 21 11:35:38 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2017 13:35:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine color(s) References: <15fdf53e244-c07-31c07@webjas-vaa111.srv.aolmail.net> Gary, from the 2017 Guidelines: "100 ? Some very early BN1's were a medium/dark bluish-gray (chassis 138039 (believed to be the 7th or 8th production car built) showed evidence of the engine being a med. to dark grayish-blue) ? One or two of the very early engines may have been Morris green. " A lot of information has changed in the Big Healey Guidelines since 2006. Time to update your Guidelines! ? OK, a shameless plug, the 2018 Guidelines will be out beginning of January. Contact Mike Osipik at: mikeosipik at gmail.com Randy Randy Hicks Chairman, Austin-Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar ahca100registrar at gmail.com www.austinhealey100m.com > On Nov 21, 2017, at 11:05 AM, Warthodson at aol.com wrote: > > My 2006 copy of the concours guidelines indicates that the early 100 engine may have been Morris green. Is this the same dark green that I have seen on 100S engines? > Is there a know source for the 100S engine color? > > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Tue Nov 21 12:46:39 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2017 14:46:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine color(s) Randy, That is exactly what it says in my 2006 version of the guidelines! I do not mind the plug for the Guidelines, but it does not answer my question. I am not planning on doing a "concours" restoration, but I do like to understand the specific details so that I am armed with the facts when I make a decision. So, is Morris green the same dark green that I have seen on 100S engines? Is there a know source for the 100S engine color? Thanks, Gary -----Original Message----- From: Randy Hicks healey100m at me.com Gary, from the 2017 Guidelines: "100 ? Some very early BN1's were a medium/dark bluish-gray (chassis 138039 (believed to be the 7th or 8th production car built) showed evidence of the engine being a med. to dark grayish-blue) ? One or two of the very early engines may havebeen Morris green. " A lot of information has changed in the Big Healey Guidelines since 2006. Time to update your Guidelines! ? OK, a shameless plug, the 2018 Guidelines will be out beginning of January. Contact Mike Osipik at: mikeosipik at gmail.com Randy Randy Hicks Chairman, Austin-Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar ahca100registrar at gmail.com www.austinhealey100m.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Tue Nov 21 20:49:25 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2017 19:49:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Help_on_ordering_custom_pistons?= A lot of good info here: https://theshopmag.com/features/ordering-custom-pistons-part-1 Hopefully Mike Salter will weigh in on this topic - he's probably ordered custom pistons. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From r3m1g4 at verizon.net Tue Nov 21 21:28:38 2017 From: r3m1g4 at verizon.net (Mike Garvey) Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2017 23:28:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 in Woods Hole MA Spotted a grey BJ8 with a golden retriever in the back seat in Woods Hole today. Anybody we know..? Mike Michael Garvey 1967 BJ8/38046 Swampscott, MA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed Nov 22 07:11:51 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2017 06:11:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?pistons_for_the_100_-_Dodge_Omni_Turbo_P?= =?iso-8859-1?q?istons?= I heard back from Mike Salter, who's unsubscribed from the list: >>> ... I have not been following the custom piston > discussion but would comment that I have not had good experience with > custom pistons and try to use production pistons whenever possible. > > The most recent competition engine that I built used Dodge Omni turbo > pistons that I bought off eBay for less than $50 for the set. Those > pistons have run flawlessly for many many hours and have been > reinstalled through 2 "refreshes". -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From rjhco at att.net Wed Nov 22 08:35:57 2017 From: rjhco at att.net (Richard J. Hockert) Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2017 09:35:57 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Help on ordering custom pistons I have ordered many sets of pistons from JE/Wiseco (Wiseco bought JE a few years ago): JE PISTONS 10800 VALLEY VIEW STREET CYPRESS , CA 90630 (714)898-9763 It will cost you as much or more to have a single piston made to match an old piston than to purchase a new set. JE will do it though. I actually have two sets of JE racing pistons with rings, etc. that I do not need, one set is 84mm the other 84.5mm (maximum size to stay under 3 liters). Contact me off list if in the market for a complete set of pistons. Best regards, Jim -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve B. Gerow Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 9:49 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Help on ordering custom pistons A lot of good info here: https://theshopmag.com/features/ordering-custom-pistons-part-1 Hopefully Mike Salter will weigh in on this topic - he's probably ordered custom pistons. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjhco at att.net From gablegerry at netscape.net Wed Nov 22 13:58:24 2017 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2017 15:58:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] MGA sighting Just saw a red older MGA go down 5th Street inGreenville, NC. Anyone know who it might be. Gerry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Nov 22 14:59:23 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2017 13:59:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gaskets and clearances Listers, You may remember the saga of my BJ8 jumping out of 4th gear after an engine rebuild.? While sorting out the issues in the gearbox and OD I've been pondering why the car would start doing this after an engine rebuild when it hadn't done it for over 100K miles before.? Thanks to people on the List and the Forum, I've noted some possible culprits: 1) weak detent springs on the shifting forks 2) weak or worn springs or balls in the shifting hubs 3) excessive end play 4) other/all of the above I don't think it's the shifting forks' job to hold a gear, but it's been noted that especially stiff shift lever boots could command an unwanted shift, but I don't think that' the issue as my shifting forks, springs, etc. are in fairly good shape, and I could feel the shifter fight to release from gear when I held it.? #2 is very likely a contributor (I'm replacing mine as the small gears that mesh with the synchro are worn).? #3 is certainly a possible cause, as Dave P and others have pointed out, but I think it's a combination of things, and one that just dawned on me.? A poster--I believe it was Steve Gerow--has been alerting owners to a problem caused by too thick paper gaskets on the rear axle hubs.? There's a spacer in there, whose job it is to clamp the outer race on the bearing to keep it from turning, but the new gaskets are too thick and prevent the axle disk from clamping down on the spacer sufficiently to apply the necessary pressure to the spacer, and spun bearings can ensue (I heard of a shop doing a pretty steady business fixing rear axle hubs with spun bearings). Similarly, there are thin shims at both the front and rear of the gearbox that are there to apply pressure to the gearbox front and rear bearings.? Magnus K notes in his (excellent) video that these are critical to minimize end float in the input and main shafts, which can cause the jumping out of gear.?? When I split the adapter from my OD I noted that the original--AFAIK--gasket was very thin; paper thin to be exact (unfortunately, I split the bellhousing and gearbox and didn't save the gasket, which was installed at the last rebuild about 130K miles ago).? The new gaskets that Moss, and probably others, provide are much thicker than this.? The front shims for the gearbox are either 0.002" or 0.004", and the rear are 'A/R' and none are available (at least from Moss).?? A random gasket I pulled from the set--which, I believe, are also for some MG and/or TR cars--measured 0.019", a lot more than the width of available spacers. Obviously, I can't prove any one cause conclusively, but if the shims are for a setup with, say, a 0.002" gasket, then a 0.019" gasket is going to eliminate the pressure that should be applied to the bearing outer races.? This also fits with the behavior of the box, which had jumped out of gear a few times after a previous engine rebuild, but had settled in and not jumped for over 100K miles.? And now, the problem is, where do I get an 'original style' gasket, which is probably only a thou or two thick?? It is not practical to 'roll your own' as these are complex gaskets and there are many openings that need to line up.? Note these are smooth, machined, non-porous surfaces which should not require a thick gasket to fill imperfections like, say, a thermostat housing (yet the gaskets appear to be made out of the same thick material).? I could use a silicone or other sealant, but I am more comfortable with a gasket with a bit of sealant spread on it ('belt and suspenders' as it were). Anyone else seen this problem?? Oh, and I've got 2 gaskets sets minus the front and top gaskets for a centre shift gearbox available to a good home for postage. Bob From dwflagg at juno.com Thu Nov 23 06:41:29 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 13:41:29 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler Today is Rich's birthday. I give thanks for having known him. ____________________________________________________________ 1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines in Seconds Fit Mom Daily http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5a16d04917aae50483969st01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Nov 23 07:38:52 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 9:38:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey in Australia------plus friend:) Enjoy tom you might have to search the master file to find it, but it is a fun video. https://www.facebook.com/moyoungvlies/videos/10212826484830684/ From bradh904 at gmail.com Thu Nov 23 14:01:08 2017 From: bradh904 at gmail.com (Brad Holden) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 16:01:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] interior adhesive Gentlemen, I am wondering if there is a preferred adhesive for attaching the interior carpet to my car? After many long years it is finally time to end this project I started 10 yrs. ago. Thank you, Brad Holden 67 BJ8 Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Thu Nov 23 14:10:12 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 13:10:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheeler Dealers show last night about the BJ8 I sure miss Edd. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Nov 23 14:32:32 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 21:32:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler References: <20171123.084129.27260.1@webmail11.dca.untd.com> I have to agree. Mike MacLean On Thursday, November 23, 2017 6:08 AM, "dwflagg at juno.com" wrote: Today is Rich's birthday. I give thanks for having known him.?? ____________________________________________________________ 1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines in Seconds Fit Mom Daily http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5a16d04917aae50483969st01duc _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com Thu Nov 23 18:00:32 2017 From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 20:00:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Shipping healey across country Does anyone have any good suggestions to ship a Healey from Connecticut to Texas in an enclosed trailer? The reviews on the standard shipping companies sound uniformly horrible: untrustworthy, rude, irresponsible, etc. One of the reviewers described the industry as drivers who are "aging Hells Angels" and shipping companies which just put the job out to bid and then have little interest in when the car is picked up or delivered. Ugh. thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eschulz at frontiernet.net Thu Nov 23 19:00:57 2017 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 21:00:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheeler Dealers show last night about the BJ8 References: That show was a real disappointment! Also the car shown on the auction block looked like it had a lot more money into it than what the Wheeler Dealers claimed. Elton On 11/23/2017 4:10 PM, richard mayor wrote: > I sure miss Edd. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Thu Nov 23 20:07:12 2017 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 22:07:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheeler Dealers show last night about the BJ8 References: Ed we miss you. The good news is they got strong money for a BJ-8 . Did they fix the OD ? Would have saved a lot of show time just getting a set of DW headers. And with his exhaust system would have been just as loud . Ask me that?s my setup. And what was that switch for above the key , lights switches ? And red leather interior? The original ones didn?t look that bad . And they were original. And they left the cigarette lighter there ? And what was wrong with the carbs? Ed would have used them . Oh well great press for our cars . Don. BJ-8 Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 23, 2017, at 4:10 PM, richard mayor wrote: > > I sure miss Edd. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Nov 23 20:45:21 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 22:45:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler References: <20171123.084129.27260.1@webmail11.dca.untd.com> I second that; he was a good friend and I am glad to have known him. Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dwflagg at juno.com Sent: November-23-17 8:41 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler Today is Rich's birthday. I give thanks for having known him. ____________________________________________________________ 1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines in Seconds Fit Mom Daily http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5a16d04917aae50483969st01duc Image removed by sender. SponsoredBy Content.Ad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD000.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Nov 23 23:15:01 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 22:15:01 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] interior adhesive References: Weldwood contact cement John Spaur ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Holden Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2017 1:01 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] interior adhesive Gentlemen, I am wondering if there is a preferred adhesive for attaching the interior carpet to my car? After many long years it is finally time to end this project I started 10 yrs. ago. Thank you, Brad Holden 67 BJ8 Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Nov 24 00:49:12 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 23:49:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] interior adhesive References: I bought this by the quart from my 100's upholsterer: https://www.ebay.com/i/271191027327?chn=ps&dispctrl=1 Comparable to the 3M stuff, but cheaper.? Semi-permanent; no complaints.? For the floor/carpet pieces, those should be removable with snaps. bs On 11/23/2017 1:01 PM, Brad Holden wrote: > Gentlemen, I am wondering if there is a preferred adhesive for > attaching the interior carpet to my car? After many long years it is > finally time to end this project I started 10 yrs. ago. > > Thank you, > Brad Holden > 67 BJ8 > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Nov 24 00:50:11 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 23 Nov 2017 23:50:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler References: <20171123.084129.27260.1@webmail11.dca.untd.com> <006601d364d6$a7cb3dd0$f761b970$@sympatico.ca> Never met him, but he was always there with help and advice.? His passion for Healeys was obvious. Gone too soon. Bob On 11/23/2017 7:45 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > > I second that; he was a good friend and I am glad to have known him. > > Mirek > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *dwflagg at juno.com > *Sent:* November-23-17 8:41 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler > > Today is Rich's birthday. I give thanks for having known him. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Nov 24 02:06:09 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2017 10:06:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Shipping healey across country References: If the car is in good condition why not drive it down?? There are some spectacular secondary roads all the way down to Texas. Mostly along more or less coastal roads. Just set the satnav at "avoid motorways/toll roads" Very enjoyable driving. 2000+ miles in 4-5 days (New Haven-San Antonio). A lot cheaper, including H/Motels/B&B and return flight. Kees Oudesluijs Op 24-11-2017 om 2:00 schreef Jonathan Einhorn: > Does anyone have any good suggestions to ship a Healey from > Connecticut to Texas in an enclosed trailer? The reviews on the > standard shipping companies sound uniformly horrible: untrustworthy, > rude, irresponsible, etc. One of the reviewers described the industry > as drivers? who are "aging Hells Angels" and shipping companies which > just put the job out to bid and then have little interest in when the > car is picked up or delivered. Ugh. > > thanks > jon > > > > > -- > Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. > Attorney & Counselor at Law > 129 Whitney Avenue > New Haven, CT. 06510 > tel: 203-777-3777 > fax: 203-782-1721 > cell: 203-623-7373 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From douglas.barker at videotron.ca Fri Nov 24 04:49:31 2017 From: douglas.barker at videotron.ca (douglas.barker at videotron.ca) Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2017 06:49:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler ------ Original message------From: Michael MacLeanDate: Thu, Nov 23, 2017 9:07 PMTo: dwflagg at juno.com;healeys at autox.team.net;Cc: Subject:Re: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler I have to agree. Mike MacLean On Thursday, November 23, 2017 6:08 AM, "dwflagg at juno.com" > wrote: Today is Rich's birthday. I give thanks for having known him. ? ? ____________________________________________________________ 1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines in Seconds Fit Mom Daily http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5a16d04917aae50483969st01duc _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jjkbj7 at yahoo.com Fri Nov 24 06:17:20 2017 From: jjkbj7 at yahoo.com (John Kuzman) Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2017 13:17:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Shipping healey across country References: <0288320c-2859-9ebf-c1d7-7ff3c8bb27d9@chello.nl> Jon - In recent years, I have used both Passport and Reliable with excellent results. I have shipped my Healey, Corvette and Mercedes. The drivers in all cases were very professional and treated my cars with the utmost care (at least while I watched the loading/unloading process). I think the Passport owner is a Healey owner.The rough neck looking guys are usually dispatched through a broker. I would not use a broker for that very reason. It may be the cheaper option, but peace of mind trumps cheap for me. On Friday, November 24, 2017 6:12 AM, Oudesluys wrote: If the car is in good condition why not drive it down?? There are some spectacular secondary roads all the way down to Texas. Mostly along more or less coastal roads. Just set the satnav at "avoid motorways/toll roads" Very enjoyable driving. 2000+ miles in 4-5 days (New Haven-San Antonio). A lot cheaper, including H/Motels/B&B and return flight. Kees Oudesluijs Op 24-11-2017 om 2:00 schreef Jonathan Einhorn: Does anyone have any good suggestions to ship a Healey from Connecticut to Texas in an enclosed trailer? The reviews on the standard shipping companies sound uniformly horrible: untrustworthy, rude, irresponsible, etc. One of the reviewers described the industry as drivers? who are "aging Hells Angels" and shipping companies which just put the job out to bid and then have little interest in when the car is picked up or delivered. Ugh.? thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Nov 24 11:14:31 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2017 10:14:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler References: <20171123.084129.27260.1@webmail11.dca.untd.com> I just dropped by his son's place on Vancouver Island BC. My wife and I are in BC on Holiday and I though tit would be great to meet him IRL and to show my wife his wonderful MGB Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Nov 23, 2017 at 5:41 AM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: > Today is Rich's birthday. I give thanks for having known him. > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines in Seconds* > Fit Mom Daily > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5a16d04917aae50483969st01duc > [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmolony1 at bigpond.com Fri Nov 24 17:12:21 2017 From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (gmolony1 at bigpond.com) Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2017 11:12:21 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK 111 for Auction - Plus Other Classics Good afternoon /good morning guys As you have been talking about prices of Healey Sales on Wheeler Dealers ( Healey episode not yet shown here in Aust ) thought you might be interested in an Auction coming up here in Melbourne at 7.00 pm Monday evening our.time featuring a nice looking 1967 3000 MK 111 (BJ8) and a number of other British and American Classics We are 19 hours ahead of the West Coast time zone and 16 hours ahead of the East Coast Time zone it?s close to 11.00 am Saturday here as I type this The Healey features at LOT 32 and has an indicated price range of $ Aust $74,000 to $ 82,000 roughly $US $56400 to $ 62,450 . Unfortunately the $ Australian dollar is only worth about $ 0.76 US at the moment Transportation and import costs for us here down under for a vehicle are about $ Aust $3000 or $US $2300 You will note that a lot of the US Classics are still Left Hand Drive so no conversion problems The auction company is Shannons and the Catalogue can be viewed at ; Upcoming Car Auctions - Auto Auctions- Melbourne https;//www.shannons.com.au/auctions/upcoming Hope this makes it through NFI Graeme M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Fri Nov 24 17:14:11 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2017 16:14:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wheeler Dealers show last night about the BJ8 References: <5A177D59.2030300@frontiernet.net> I agree. When it went to auction, I thought to myself, where did those chrome wire wheels come from? The purchase of the car itself was odd. Mike sorta looked under the car in one place and proudly proclaimed that he has bought himself a "rust free" Austin Healey. The character of the show has certainly changed. I think its a little more smoke and mirrors now. On Thu, Nov 23, 2017 at 6:00 PM, Elton Schulz wrote: > That show was a real disappointment! Also the car shown on the auction > block looked like it had a lot more money into it than what the Wheeler > Dealers claimed. > Elton > On 11/23/2017 4:10 PM, richard mayor wrote: > > I sure miss Edd. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Nov 24 19:24:58 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2017 21:24:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1965 AH 3000 on Pittsburgh Craigslist OK I looked for a way to mention this listing without breaking the perceived rules but could not, so, project car with lots of new parts. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Nov 25 03:55:45 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2017 21:55:45 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK 111 for Auction - Plus Other Classics References: <91AD75E89BFD492ABED465D8190291D6@msiallinone> Hello Graeme I had a close look at this car last Tuesday and it is indeed a nicely finished BJ8. Certainly not concours, but still a very nice car. It?s finished in a very bright white which is erroneously labelled as ?Ivory White? which according to all the reference material was actually Old English White. It?s a matter of taste but I think the car has too much bling in that the chrome plated 72 spoke wires just doesn?t look right with the bright white. The chrome plated heater return pipe, bonnet/boot props and battery master switch bracket certainly sets the car off. There was also a problem with the Heritage Certificate as after I was presented with a copy a simple check showed that it was for a different car. Now that sent the auction house into a real tizz. Just two weeks back an early ?65 BJ8 was sold by the same auction house in Sydney for Aus$65K. It was finished in the correct OEW and really sold at a good price despite someone in the car?s past had fitted it with the extra sidelights. Selling alongside was a lovely 100 BN1 that sold for Aus$72K, but with its chromed grille and windscreen uprights it?s ?bling? level was high. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gmolony1 at bigpond.com Sent: Saturday, 25 November 2017 11:12 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK 111 for Auction - Plus Other Classics Good afternoon /good morning guys As you have been talking about prices of Healey Sales on Wheeler Dealers ( Healey episode not yet shown here in Aust ) thought you might be interested in an Auction coming up here in Melbourne at 7.00 pm Monday evening our.time featuring a nice looking 1967 3000 MK 111 (BJ8) and a number of other British and American Classics We are 19 hours ahead of the West Coast time zone and 16 hours ahead of the East Coast Time zone it?s close to 11.00 am Saturday here as I type this The Healey features at LOT 32 and has an indicated price range of $ Aust $74,000 to $ 82,000 roughly $US $56400 to $ 62,450 . Unfortunately the $ Australian dollar is only worth about $ 0.76 US at the moment Transportation and import costs for us here down under for a vehicle are about $ Aust $3000 or $US $2300 You will note that a lot of the US Classics are still Left Hand Drive so no conversion problems The auction company is Shannons and the Catalogue can be viewed at ; Upcoming Car Auctions - Auto Auctions- Melbourne https;//www.shannons.com.au/auctions/upcoming Hope this makes it through NFI Graeme M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Nov 25 11:07:34 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2017 10:07:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] interior adhesive References: <000001d364eb$90af8330$b20e8990$@sbcglobal.net> <15ff2b1fce4-1d54-1b6@webjas-vad035.srv.aolmail.net> Contact cement is heat resistant. I don?t know if carpet glue is. John Spaur From: insidedim at aol.com [mailto:insidedim at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2017 2:21 AM To: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] interior adhesive Use standard carpet glue with a V-notched trowel, that's what it's made for. I've got you beat, been restoring a BJ8 on and off since 1990. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Nov 26 17:23:11 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2017 19:23:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Conventry Climax All, I've been reading "Climax in Coventry" by Walt Hassen with Graham Robson. Graham mentions that Jack Brabham fitted Climax Coventry engines to about 150 Triumph Heralds, Austin-Healey Sprites and the like. Any examples exist today? He also talked about Donald Healey borrowing and fitting a 2 liter FPF engine (180 hp) to a 15' Healey boat for a six hour race on the Seine in Paris. The boat was piloted by Tommy Wisdom and the hull was holed during the race by a partially submerged log. The boat sunk but was located and recovered. The engine was rebuilt and sent to the customer who had already purchased it. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Nov 26 19:46:47 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2017 13:46:47 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Conventry Climax References: <16f35236-d61f-2341-2814-d3379f550f53@earthlink.net> Hello The story about the FPF engine fitted to the Healey Boat is also mentioned in DMH's book 'My World of Cars'. Yes the engine was rebuilt and sent out to a customer in Australia. There were a couple of Sprites in this country with Climax FWA engines and when I bought my first Austin-Healey 100 back in 1972 I had the choice between it for $1,275 and a Climax powered Turner for $1,500. I couldn't afford the Turner so bought the 100. Often wonder what would have happened if I bought the Turner. Probably be more impecunious than I am now. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Monday, 27 November 2017 11:23 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Conventry Climax All, I've been reading "Climax in Coventry" by Walt Hassen with Graham Robson. Graham mentions that Jack Brabham fitted Climax Coventry engines to about 150 Triumph Heralds, Austin-Healey Sprites and the like. Any examples exist today? He also talked about Donald Healey borrowing and fitting a 2 liter FPF engine (180 hp) to a 15' Healey boat for a six hour race on the Seine in Paris. The boat was piloted by Tommy Wisdom and the hull was holed during the race by a partially submerged log. The boat sunk but was located and recovered. The engine was rebuilt and sent to the customer who had already purchased it. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Nov 26 21:52:04 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2017 20:52:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Conventry Climax References: <16f35236-d61f-2341-2814-d3379f550f53@earthlink.net> <008c01d36729$f961e9a0$ec25bce0$@tpg.com.au> "impecunious" Just when I thought I knew all the words. bs On 11/26/2017 6:46 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello > > The story about the FPF engine fitted to the Healey Boat is also mentioned > in DMH's book 'My World of Cars'. Yes the engine was rebuilt and sent out to > a customer in Australia. > > There were a couple of Sprites in this country with Climax FWA engines and > when I bought my first Austin-Healey 100 back in 1972 I had the choice > between it for $1,275 and a Climax powered Turner for $1,500. I couldn't > afford the Turner so bought the 100. Often wonder what would have happened > if I bought the Turner. Probably be more impecunious than I am now. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Nov 26 23:23:52 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2017 17:23:52 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Conventry Climax References: <16f35236-d61f-2341-2814-d3379f550f53@earthlink.net> <008c01d36729$f961e9a0$ec25bce0$@tpg.com.au> Hello Bob One way of expunging the word 'impecunious' from your lexicography is to send me lucre. Happy to accept Paypal. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, The Great South Land -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, 27 November 2017 3:52 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conventry Climax "impecunious" Just when I thought I knew all the words. bs On 11/26/2017 6:46 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello > > The story about the FPF engine fitted to the Healey Boat is also > mentioned in DMH's book 'My World of Cars'. Yes the engine was rebuilt > and sent out to a customer in Australia. > > There were a couple of Sprites in this country with Climax FWA engines > and when I bought my first Austin-Healey 100 back in 1972 I had the > choice between it for $1,275 and a Climax powered Turner for $1,500. I > couldn't afford the Turner so bought the 100. Often wonder what would > have happened if I bought the Turner. Probably be more impecunious than I am now. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Nov 27 06:01:13 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2017 08:01:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Conventry Climax References: <16f35236-d61f-2341-2814-d3379f550f53@earthlink.net> <008c01d36729$f961e9a0$ec25bce0$@tpg.com.au> <00e001d36748$4cc48490$e64d8db0$@tpg.com.au> Sometimes referred to as FILTHY LUCRE?.in a King James sort of way! Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Monday, November 27, 2017 2:43 AM To: 'Bob Spidell'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Conventry Climax Hello Bob One way of expunging the word 'impecunious' from your lexicography is to send me lucre. Happy to accept Paypal. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, The Great South Land -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell "impecunious" Just when I thought I knew all the words. bs On 11/26/2017 6:46 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello Probably be more impecunious than I am now. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gablegerry at netscape.net Mon Nov 27 06:48:29 2017 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2017 08:48:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] engine fitting Put the engine back in my BN6 a few weeks back. Started to attached the carburetors last week. I had to lift up the engine a couple inches to get to the studs. Got it all done, lowered the engine and now the jets lever connecting rod is stuck on the steering column tub. Also I had replace the motor mounts and am having problems lining up the base nuts. Do I need to add to the carb's with spacers or shim up the motor mounts? Thanks Gerry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Mon Nov 27 10:52:50 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2017 17:52:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ignitor VS Ignitor II References: <1322287867.4117353.1511805170255.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi everyone,I know we recently had a thread about the pros and cons of the Petronix ignition solutions, but was there any consensus as to whether the Ignitor II was suitable for the Healey...or was the tried and true (to some!) original Ignitor a better route. Thanks?Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Nov 27 11:30:49 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2017 10:30:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ignitor VS Ignitor II References: <1322287867.4117353.1511805170255.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1322287867.4117353.1511805170255@mail.yahoo.com> Ignitor II is superior to the Ignitor in pretty much every way; esp. the burnout protection.? Last I checked, though, Pertronix didn't have the II for Healeys, at least not for pos. gnd. like both my cars. Bob On 11/27/2017 9:52 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > Hi everyone, > I know we recently had a thread about the pros and cons of the > Petronix ignition solutions, but was there any consensus as to whether > the Ignitor II was suitable for the Healey...or was the tried and true > (to some!) original Ignitor a better route. > > Thanks > Stephen, BJ8 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Mon Nov 27 14:56:43 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2017 10:56:43 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Ignitor VS Ignitor II References: <1322287867.4117353.1511805170255.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1322287867.4117353.1511805170255@mail.yahoo.com> The Ignitor 11 module is physically taller and does not fit into the space between the rotor and base plate so unless they have changed the design recently it won't be available for our distributor. I fitted one into a Lucas distributor about 12 years ago and it is possible but not recommended. I had to drop the base plate down about 1/4" and grind some plastic off the rotor to get clearance. The ignitor 11 addresses the issue where at high rpm there is insufficient time to fully charge the coil between sparks and the output is reduced. It uses a low impedance coil and variable dwell time which means the coil is only ever on for a few ms and there is no risk of overheating it by leaving the key on as with conventional points or Ignitor. For everyday driving there is no noticeable difference in performance between them. Andy. On 11/28/17, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > Hi everyone,I know we recently had a thread about the pros and cons of the > Petronix ignition solutions, but was there any consensus as to whether the > Ignitor II was suitable for the Healey...or was the tried and true (to > some!) original Ignitor a better route. > Thanks Stephen, BJ8 From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Nov 27 19:07:06 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2017 18:07:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] engine fitting References: <15ffdbc7942-1d2e-cbc@webjas-vaa083.srv.aolmail.net> Right and left mounts on correctly? On Nov 27, 2017 6:03 PM, wrote: > Put the engine back in my BN6 a few weeks back. Started to attached the > carburetors last week. I had to lift up the engine a couple inches to get > to the studs. Got it all done, lowered the engine and now the jets lever > connecting rod is stuck on the steering column tub. Also I had replace the > motor mounts and am having problems lining up the base nuts. Do I need to > add to the carb's with spacers or shim up the motor mounts? > Thanks > Gerry > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Nov 27 20:14:49 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2017 14:14:49 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Dipper Switch Attachment Hello I have been asked about the attachment of the headlight dipper switch in the six-cylinder roadster cars. I know with the four-cylinder cars the switch goes through a hole in the floor just left of the clutch pedal and with the BJ8 it sits in a bracket. However how is it fitted in the roadsters? Of course a photo would be perfect. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Nov 27 20:59:25 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2017 03:59:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Dipper Switch Attachment References: <008601d367f7$0e579440$2b06bcc0$@tpg.com.au> Patrick, The roadsters are very similar to the BJ8 except that the pedestal is a little different than the one on the BJ8. I will take a photo of my BN6 tomorrow and send it to you. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: November 28, 2017 3:14 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Dipper Switch Attachment Hello I have been asked about the attachment of the headlight dipper switch in the six-cylinder roadster cars. I know with the four-cylinder cars the switch goes through a hole in the floor just left of the clutch pedal and with the BJ8 it sits in a bracket. However how is it fitted in the roadsters? Of course a photo would be perfect. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Nov 28 06:01:32 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2017 08:01:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Dipper Switch Attachment References: <008601d367f7$0e579440$2b06bcc0$@tpg.com.au> Patrick and listers These are the times and questions that a common resource, parts suppliers catalogues, usually give a suggestion as to the answer. I.E. The Moss Motors catalog, which is available online, shows the brackets for both the roadster and BJ8. Not enough detail that you could fabricate a piece but at least you know it is a bracket. Just my OLD MAN suggestion for the day and lest I anger anyone by the use of the term old man, that would be me! Hope everyone is enjoying a beautiful fall day in the Northern Hemisphere. For the rest of you I?m still trying to get my head around summer weather at Christmas time! Perry I have been asked about the attachment of the headlight dipper switch in the six-cylinder roadster cars. I know with the four-cylinder cars the switch goes through a hole in the floor just left of the clutch pedal and with the BJ8 it sits in a bracket. However how is it fitted in the roadsters? Of course a photo would be perfect. Patrick Quinn -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paull at glasgows.co.uk Tue Nov 28 10:42:18 2017 From: paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2017 17:42:18 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] And I've just had my hair done! Hopefully this link will work ... https://twitter.com/Motorwaymayhem_/status/934123301764509696?t=1&cn= ZmxleGlibGVfcmVjc18y&refsrc=email&iid=12ec313a11c64678aae72d3a13a926 50&uid=2969706147&nid=244+293670929 Paul Leeks 100/6 BN4 -- EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Nov 28 11:52:04 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2017 10:52:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] And I've just had my hair done! References: https://twitter.com/twitter/statuses/928000009664122880 for another animal Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Nov 28, 2017 at 9:42 AM, Paul Leeks wrote: > Hopefully this link will work ... > > https://twitter.com/Motorwaymayhem_/status/93412330176450969 > 6?t=1&cn=ZmxleGlibGVfcmVjc18y&refsrc=email&iid=12ec313a11c64 > 678aae72d3a13a92650&uid=2969706147&nid=244+293670929 > > Paul Leeks > 100/6 BN4 > > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not > necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to > whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential > information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use > of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or > criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received > this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is > registered in England & Wales No. 2257022 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Nov 28 11:53:10 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2017 05:53:10 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] And I've just had my hair done! References: Ron Fine and Freddie out for a drive. Ron is a member of the Sydney Australia Club, and brings Freddie to most outdoor events. Sent from my iPhone > On 29 Nov 2017, at 4:42 am, Paul Leeks wrote: > > Hopefully this link will work ... > > https://twitter.com/Motorwaymayhem_/status/934123301764509696?t=1&cn=ZmxleGlibGVfcmVjc18y&refsrc=email&iid=12ec313a11c64678aae72d3a13a92650&uid=2969706147&nid=244+293670929 > > Paul Leeks > 100/6 BN4 > > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gablegerry at netscape.net Tue Nov 28 12:18:59 2017 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2017 14:18:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] engine fitting Good day Jean, I will attach some photo's You should be able to see the spacers and where the linkage makes contact with the steering wheel. I received another email that found replacement motor mounts ere about 1/4 off and wound up using used ones. Last night I played with raising the motor off the mounts and a 1/4" spacer under the mounts would possibly make it right. Looking into where I can get spacers. 5194&1622 Show linkage sitting on Str. Whl. shaft; 5197&5198 motor lifted, shows separation and paint chipped on Str. Whl. shaft; 1621 overhead shows spacers (3) before heat shield and carb. with gasket. Thanks Gerry -----Original Message----- From: Jean Caron To: gablegerry Sent: Mon, Nov 27, 2017 10:51 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] engine fitting Can you attach a couple photos of what it all looks like and then I can compare it to my own BN6 and see where you may have some issues. Jean From: Healeys on behalf of gablegerry at netscape.net Sent: November 27, 2017 1:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] engine fitting Put the engine back in my BN6 a few weeks back. Started to attached the carburetors last week. I had to lift up the engine a couple inches to get to the studs. Got it all done, lowered the engine and now the jets lever connecting rod is stuck on the steering column tub. Also I had replace the motor mounts and am having problems lining up the base nuts. Do I need to add to the carb's with spacers or shim up the motor mounts? Thanks Gerry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC_5194s.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 124003 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC_5197s.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 126193 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC_5198s.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 118288 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1621s.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 132113 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1622s.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 125269 bytes Desc: not available URL: From roggrace at telus.net Tue Nov 28 14:27:59 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2017 13:27:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Probe For interested listers ... Ever since I acquired my BJ8 I have been frustrated with the fuel sender unit and gauge performance and reliability. Changed out the sender 2x and many hours fiddling with gauge adjustment that really with the dual attracted armature mechanism is a challenge. The MS sender ground strap solution helps if you have a problem with crud in the shaft bushes but doesn't help for bad sender coil winding or slider contact malfunction. So. I embarked on a mini science type project to do a full replacement with a capacitive electronic fuel probe and a modern stepper motor type of gauge. The biggest challenge was getting the probe to fit into the original sender unit opening. Our tanks have a 6 hole flange and modern cars use a 5 hole SAE bolt pattern and an adaptor wasn't feasible. In the end used a probe with 1/8 npt and remote electronics. With careful arrangement of the Al mounting flange that had to be made, was able to get the probe to also measure the fuel in the small well at the bottom of the tank before recording E. Next time would do slightly differently to account for the dead zone at top of the tank that caught me out. I had a Smiths look alike gauge built but with a modern 5V stepper motor drive. After numerous hiccups along the way, have now got it working satisfactorily ... after spending far too much time (and $) on it as well ! Will verify final accuracy on the road next Spring ! See a few pix; if anyone wants more details - contact me directly. gauges are: original/new sm/aftermarket sm cheepo for testing rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20171128_125726.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 199702 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170904_170504.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 184239 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170904_170547.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 198788 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170904_204852.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 218110 bytes Desc: not available URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue Nov 28 17:09:44 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2017 16:09:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Dipper Switch Attachment References: <008601d367f7$0e579440$2b06bcc0$@tpg.com.au> All of the 6 cyl cars have the switch mounted on a bracket On Mon, Nov 27, 2017 at 7:14 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > Hello > > > > I have been asked about the attachment of the headlight dipper switch in > the six-cylinder roadster cars. > > > > I know with the four-cylinder cars the switch goes through a hole in the > floor just left of the clutch pedal and with the BJ8 it sits in a bracket. > However how is it fitted in the roadsters? > > > > Of course a photo would be perfect. > > > > Many thanks > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Nov 29 01:29:34 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2017 09:29:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Probe References: The original sender/bi-metal gauge combination of this kind should work fine and is reasonably accurate. The earlier coil gauge is a different matter. It does not really give a steady reading. You cannot mix the sender for the coil gauge with the bi-metal gauge and v.v. The sender can have the rare fault with earthing or a broken coil but it is easily replaced. Another often overlooked problem is the 10V voltage stabiliser that serves the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge. This is a small metal box usually attached to one of the instruments. The bi-metal keeps the average voltage at 10V. It is not very stable but fairly durable. If faulty it can better be replaced by a solid state device. If both temperature gauge and fuel gauge are erratic, replace the voltage stabiliser. Kees Oudesluijs Op 28-11-2017 om 22:27 schreef Roger Grace: > For interested listers ... > Ever since I acquired my BJ8 I have been frustrated with the fuel > sender unit and gauge performance and reliability. Changed out the > sender 2x and many hours fiddling with gauge adjustment that really > with the dual attracted armature mechanism is a challenge. The MS > sender ground strap solution helps if you have a problem with crud in > the shaft bushes but doesn't help for bad sender coil winding or > slider contact malfunction. > So. I embarked on a mini science type project to do a full replacement > with a capacitive electronic fuel probe and a modern stepper motor > type of gauge. The biggest challenge was getting the probe to fit into > the original sender unit opening. Our tanks have a 6 hole flange and > modern cars use a 5 hole SAE bolt pattern and an adaptor wasn't > feasible. In the end used a probe with 1/8 npt and remote electronics. > With careful arrangement of the Al mounting flange that had to be > made, was able to get the probe to also measure the fuel in the small > well at the bottom of the tank before recording E. Next time would do > slightly differently to account for the dead zone at top of the tank > that caught me out. > I had a Smiths look alike gauge built but with a modern 5V stepper > motor drive. After numerous hiccups along the way, have now got it > working satisfactorily ... after spending far too much time (and $) on > it as well ! Will verify final accuracy on the road next Spring ! > See a few pix; if anyone wants more details - contact me directly. > gauges are: original/new sm/aftermarket sm cheepo for testing > rg > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Nov 29 03:48:03 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2017 05:48:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Probe References: <68f89cdc-52f9-9dc3-88e7-61077fea6a97@chello.nl> Kees, Austin-Healeys, at least the non-Sprites, did not have a voltage stabilizer. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 11/29/2017 03:29 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > The original sender/bi-metal gauge combination of this kind should work > fine and is reasonably accurate. The earlier coil gauge is a different > matter. It does not really give a steady reading. You cannot mix the > sender for the coil gauge with the bi-metal gauge and v.v. > The sender can have the rare fault with earthing or a broken coil but it > is easily replaced. Another often overlooked problem is the 10V voltage > stabiliser that serves the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge. This is > a small metal box usually attached to one of the instruments. The > bi-metal keeps the average voltage at 10V. It is not very stable but > fairly durable. If faulty it can better be replaced by a solid state > device. If both temperature gauge and fuel gauge are erratic, replace > the voltage stabiliser. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 28-11-2017 om 22:27 schreef Roger Grace: >> For interested listers ... >> Ever since I acquired my BJ8 I have been frustrated with the fuel >> sender unit and gauge performance and reliability. Changed out the >> sender 2x and many hours fiddling with gauge adjustment that really >> with the dual attracted armature mechanism is a challenge. The MS >> sender ground strap solution helps if you have a problem with crud in >> the shaft bushes but doesn't help for bad sender coil winding or >> slider contact malfunction. >> So. I embarked on a mini science type project to do a full replacement >> with a capacitive electronic fuel probe and a modern stepper motor >> type of gauge. The biggest challenge was getting the probe to fit into >> the original sender unit opening. Our tanks have a 6 hole flange and >> modern cars use a 5 hole SAE bolt pattern and an adaptor wasn't >> feasible. In the end used a probe with 1/8 npt and remote electronics. >> With careful arrangement of the Al mounting flange that had to be >> made, was able to get the probe to also measure the fuel in the small >> well at the bottom of the tank before recording E. Next time would do >> slightly differently to account for the dead zone at top of the tank >> that caught me out. >> I had a Smiths look alike gauge built but with a modern 5V stepper >> motor drive. After numerous hiccups along the way, have now got it >> working satisfactorily ... after spending far too much time (and $) on >> it as well ! Will verify final accuracy on the road next Spring ! >> See a few pix; if anyone wants more details - contact me directly. >> gauges are: original/new sm/aftermarket sm cheepo for testing >> rg >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Nov 29 04:19:30 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2017 12:19:30 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Probe References: <68f89cdc-52f9-9dc3-88e7-61077fea6a97@chello.nl> Bob, The instruments shown in the picture should be used with a voltage stabiliser. All UK cars from the era using Smiths/Jaeger temperature and fuel gauges of this type (bi-metal operated, 90 degr. sector window up or down) used the 10V stabiliser. It is a small galvanised box about 15x25mm with two or three blades on a pertinax base: B(attery) and I(nstruments). The third one or the body is earth. They were typically mounted on one of the speedo-/tachometer or other instrument clamps but can be found elsewhere under the dash as well. These instruments are sensitive to voltage and the cars system voltage can vary from roughly 12V-15V, making it impossible for these gauges to indicate a correct reading without the stabiliser. I cannot believe Austin left it out. I very much doubt that bespoke gauges of this type not needing a voltage stabiliser were made specifically for the A-H 3000. Earlier gauges without the window were probably used without voltage stabiliser. Kees Oudesluijs Op 29-11-2017 om 11:48 schreef Bob Haskell: > Kees, > > Austin-Healeys, at least the non-Sprites, did not have a voltage > stabilizer. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 11/29/2017 03:29 AM, Oudesluys wrote: >> The original sender/bi-metal gauge combination of this kind should >> work fine and is reasonably accurate. The earlier coil gauge is a >> different matter. It does not really give a steady reading. You >> cannot mix the sender for the coil gauge with the bi-metal gauge and >> v.v. >> The sender can have the rare fault with earthing or a broken coil but >> it is easily replaced. Another often overlooked problem is the 10V >> voltage stabiliser that serves the fuel gauge and the temperature >> gauge. This is a small metal box usually attached to one of the >> instruments. The bi-metal keeps the average voltage at 10V. It is not >> very stable but fairly durable. If faulty it can better be replaced >> by a solid state device. If both temperature gauge and fuel gauge are >> erratic, replace the voltage stabiliser. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> Op 28-11-2017 om 22:27 schreef Roger Grace: >>> For interested listers ... >>> Ever since I acquired my BJ8 I have been frustrated with the fuel >>> sender unit and gauge performance and reliability. Changed out the >>> sender 2x and many hours fiddling with gauge adjustment that really >>> with the dual attracted armature mechanism is a challenge. The MS >>> sender ground strap solution helps if you have a problem with crud >>> in the shaft bushes but doesn't help for bad sender coil winding or >>> slider contact malfunction. >>> So. I embarked on a mini science type project to do a full >>> replacement with a capacitive electronic fuel probe and a modern >>> stepper motor type of gauge. The biggest challenge was getting the >>> probe to fit into the original sender unit opening. Our tanks have a >>> 6 hole flange and modern cars use a 5 hole SAE bolt pattern and an >>> adaptor wasn't feasible. In the end used a probe with 1/8 npt and >>> remote electronics. With careful arrangement of the Al mounting >>> flange that had to be made, was able to get the probe to also >>> measure the fuel in the small well at the bottom of the tank before >>> recording E. Next time would do slightly differently to account for >>> the dead zone at top of the tank that caught me out. >>> I had a Smiths look alike gauge built but with a modern 5V stepper >>> motor drive. After numerous hiccups along the way, have now got it >>> working satisfactorily ... after spending far too much time (and $) >>> on it as well ! Will verify final accuracy on the road next Spring ! >>> See a few pix; if anyone wants more details - contact me directly. >>> gauges are: original/new sm/aftermarket sm cheepo for testing >>> rg >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >>> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > From llennep at verizon.net Wed Nov 29 08:37:43 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2017 10:37:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] And I've just had my hair done! Bear in mind the critter was not driving. -----Original Message----- From: i erbs To: Paul Leeks Cc: Sent: Tue, Nov 28, 2017 3:13 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] And I've just had my hair done! https://twitter.com/twitter/statuses/928000009664122880 for another animal Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Nov 28, 2017 at 9:42 AM, Paul Leeks wrote: Hopefully this link will work ... https://twitter.com/Motorwaymayhem_/status/934123301764509696?t=1&cn=ZmxleGlibGVfcmVjc18y&refsrc=email&iid=12ec313a11c64678aae72d3a13a92650&uid=2969706147&nid=244+293670929 Paul Leeks 100/6 BN4 EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Wed Nov 29 09:11:58 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2017 08:11:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Probe References: <68f89cdc-52f9-9dc3-88e7-61077fea6a97@chello.nl> K0dleuEkshSAJK0dmecrYE No volt stabiliser in AH3000 and earlier. BTW the Smith gauge shown on RHS is not a standard unit, but a look alike specially built for me with stepper motor mechanism with 5V=F and 0V=E rg -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2017 3:19 AM To: Bob Haskell ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Probe Bob, The instruments shown in the picture should be used with a voltage stabiliser. All UK cars from the era using Smiths/Jaeger temperature and fuel gauges of this type (bi-metal operated, 90 degr. sector window up or down) used the 10V stabiliser. It is a small galvanised box about 15x25mm with two or three blades on a pertinax base: B(attery) and I(nstruments). The third one or the body is earth. They were typically mounted on one of the speedo-/tachometer or other instrument clamps but can be found elsewhere under the dash as well. These instruments are sensitive to voltage and the cars system voltage can vary from roughly 12V-15V, making it impossible for these gauges to indicate a correct reading without the stabiliser. I cannot believe Austin left it out. I very much doubt that bespoke gauges of this type not needing a voltage stabiliser were made specifically for the A-H 3000. Earlier gauges without the window were probably used without voltage stabiliser. Kees Oudesluijs Op 29-11-2017 om 11:48 schreef Bob Haskell: > Kees, > > Austin-Healeys, at least the non-Sprites, did not have a voltage > stabilizer. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 11/29/2017 03:29 AM, Oudesluys wrote: >> The original sender/bi-metal gauge combination of this kind should work >> fine and is reasonably accurate. The earlier coil gauge is a different >> matter. It does not really give a steady reading. You cannot mix the >> sender for the coil gauge with the bi-metal gauge and v.v. >> The sender can have the rare fault with earthing or a broken coil but it >> is easily replaced. Another often overlooked problem is the 10V voltage >> stabiliser that serves the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge. This is >> a small metal box usually attached to one of the instruments. The >> bi-metal keeps the average voltage at 10V. It is not very stable but >> fairly durable. If faulty it can better be replaced by a solid state >> device. If both temperature gauge and fuel gauge are erratic, replace the >> voltage stabiliser. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> Op 28-11-2017 om 22:27 schreef Roger Grace: >>> For interested listers ... >>> Ever since I acquired my BJ8 I have been frustrated with the fuel sender >>> unit and gauge performance and reliability. Changed out the sender 2x >>> and many hours fiddling with gauge adjustment that really with the dual >>> attracted armature mechanism is a challenge. The MS sender ground strap >>> solution helps if you have a problem with crud in the shaft bushes but >>> doesn't help for bad sender coil winding or slider contact malfunction. >>> So. I embarked on a mini science type project to do a full replacement >>> with a capacitive electronic fuel probe and a modern stepper motor type >>> of gauge. The biggest challenge was getting the probe to fit into the >>> original sender unit opening. Our tanks have a 6 hole flange and modern >>> cars use a 5 hole SAE bolt pattern and an adaptor wasn't feasible. In >>> the end used a probe with 1/8 npt and remote electronics. With careful >>> arrangement of the Al mounting flange that had to be made, was able to >>> get the probe to also measure the fuel in the small well at the bottom >>> of the tank before recording E. Next time would do slightly differently >>> to account for the dead zone at top of the tank that caught me out. >>> I had a Smiths look alike gauge built but with a modern 5V stepper motor >>> drive. After numerous hiccups along the way, have now got it working >>> satisfactorily ... after spending far too much time (and $) on it as >>> well ! Will verify final accuracy on the road next Spring ! >>> See a few pix; if anyone wants more details - contact me directly. >>> gauges are: original/new sm/aftermarket sm cheepo for testing >>> rg >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From atightprod at aol.com Thu Nov 30 09:37:04 2017 From: atightprod at aol.com (atightprod at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2017 11:37:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] NFI, just thought the list might enjoy . . . Fwd: 1956 Austin-Healey 100M References: <0.0.3C.AB3.1D369F2D79AF5CA.0@drone086.ral.icpbounce.com> ? ? From: hymanltdnews at hymanltd.com To: atightprod at aol.com Sent: 11/30/2017 7:49:50 AM Pacific Standard Time Subject: 1956 Austin-Healey 100M If you are having trouble viewing this message, CLICK HERE. ? 1956 Austin-Healey 100M ? A genuine factory built "LeMans" confirmed by the 100M Registry, and 1 of just 3 cars originally finished in Florida Green. Delivered new to California and raced in period.? Beautifully restored and ready for events worldwide. ? ? Our featured 1956 Austin Healey 100M is one of those genuine and highly desirable factory-built examples, documented by both a British Motor Industry Heritage Trust Certificate as well as a 100M Le Mans Registry Certificate. It is a factory original left-hand drive car, built on the 11th?of January, 1956, with original equipment listed as a heater, laminated windscreen and louvered bonnet, in addition to the Le Mans performance parts. It has had just four owners from new, with the early history showing it was originally delivered to John McCormick of California who, along with his wife Margee, raced the car in SCCA events in California, primarily at Palm Springs and Hourglass Field. A stack of California registration cards show he retained his beloved Healey through the 1970s and into the 1980s. In 1987, Margee McCormick sold the complete and highly original car to Gary Westwood of San Diego. Mr. Westwood rebuilt the drivetrain before selling the car on to Bill Lamping in the early 1990s. Mr. Lamping was then president of the Austin Healey Owner?s Club and eventually restored the car to the meticulously high standard it presents today.......... Click to see more Offered at: $198,500 ? ? Recently requested cars ? Do you know of a car for sale? We are always on the hunt for our clients and our own inventory. Here are a few specific examples of cars we are currently looking for: ? ? Lamboghini Miura Arnolt Bristol AC Bristol W.O. Bentley 3/4.5L Mercedes-Benz 540K Cadillac V16 Ferrari 330 GTC Ferrari 250 GT/L Lusso Cord 812 S/C Duesenberg J? ? ? ? ? ? Recent Offerings ? 1936 MG PB Supercharged Special 1971 Stutz Duplex 1951 Talbot T26 Record Coupe ? ? Upcoming Car Events ? ? ? ?? 2017 HYMAN LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ST. LOUIS MISSOURI ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?? ? ? ? ?This message was sent to atightprod at aol.com from hymanltdnews at hymanltd.com Hyman Ltd. Classic Cars Hyman Ltd 2310 Chaffee Dr. St. Louis, MO 63146 Unsubscribe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Healey100M at gmail.com Thu Nov 30 11:13:25 2017 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2017 13:13:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: 1956 Austin-Healey 100M References: <0.0.1C.83C.1D369F2DA04915E.0@drone096.ral.icpbounce.com> Hi just got off the phone with Hyman Ltd., They have agreed that there were actually 55 Florida Green 100M produced. (15 know to exist today) The owner had given them the info of ?1 of just 3?. Randy Randy Hicks AHCA 100 Registrar > > If you are having trouble viewing this message, CLICK HERE. > > > > 1956 Austin-Healey 100M > > A genuine factory built "LeMans" confirmed by the 100M Registry, and 1 of just 3 cars originally finished in Florida Green. Delivered new to California and raced in period. Beautifully restored and ready for events worldwide. > > > > Our featured 1956 Austin Healey 100M is one of those genuine and highly desirable factory-built examples, documented by both a British Motor Industry Heritage Trust Certificate as well as a 100M Le Mans Registry Certificate. It is a factory original left-hand drive car, built on the 11th of January, 1956, with original equipment listed as a heater, laminated windscreen and louvered bonnet, in addition to the Le Mans performance parts. It has had just four owners from new, with the early history showing it was originally delivered to John McCormick of California who, along with his wife Margee, raced the car in SCCA events in California, primarily at Palm Springs and Hourglass Field. A stack of California registration cards show he retained his beloved Healey through the 1970s and into the 1980s. In 1987, Margee McCormick sold the complete and highly original car to Gary Westwood of San Diego. Mr. Westwood rebuilt the drivetrain before selling the car on to Bill Lamping in the early 1990s. Mr. Lamping was then president of the Austin Healey Owner?s Club and eventually restored the car to the meticulously high standard it presents today.......... > > Click to see more > Offered at: $198,500 > > > Recently requested cars > > Do you know of a car for sale? We are always on the hunt for our clients and our own inventory. Here are a few specific examples of cars we are currently looking for: > > > Lamboghini Miura > Arnolt Bristol > AC Bristol > W.O. Bentley 3/4.5L > Mercedes-Benz 540K > Cadillac V16 > Ferrari 330 GTC > Ferrari 250 GT/L Lusso > Cord 812 S/C > Duesenberg J? > > > > > > > > > > > Recent Offerings > > > 1936 MG > PB Supercharged Special > > 1971 Stutz > Duplex > > 1951 Talbot > T26 Record Coupe > > > Upcoming Car Events > > > > > > 2017 HYMAN LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ST. LOUIS MISSOURI > > Hyman Ltd. Classic Cars > Hyman Ltd > 2310 Chaffee Dr. > St. Louis, MO 63146 > > > Unsubscribe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mstanleyfl at gmail.com Thu Nov 30 12:54:12 2017 From: mstanleyfl at gmail.com (Michael Stanley) Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2017 14:54:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Period Healey articles References: Some may be a little hard to read. Enjoy! https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B39aucJftjImUm1kMExlSjNRUHc Michael Stanley -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Nov 30 14:09:48 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2017 13:09:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Period Healey articles References: thanks Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Nov 30, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Michael Stanley wrote: > Some may be a little hard to read. Enjoy! > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B39aucJftjImUm1kMExlSjNRUHc > > Michael Stanley > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Thu Nov 30 20:51:40 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2017 22:51:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] And I've just had my hair done! References: <160086d367d-171a-14dd@webjas-vae016.srv.aolmail.net> I go ape over this chimp driving a Healey: https://books.google.com/books?id=8FMEAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA11&lpg=PA11&dq=life+magazine+austin+healey+monkey+chimpanzee&source=bl&ots=Buxpff0wLE&sig=SA9nmzqZ0hZIXf6xrf4n1h-YwwI&hl=en&sa=X&ei=W1ogULa8G4iS9QSB4IDwAQ&ved=0CE8Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=life%20magazine%20austin%20healey%20monkey%20chimpanzee&f=true On Wed, Nov 29, 2017 at 10:37 AM, Keith Pennell wrote: > Bear in mind the critter was not driving. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: i erbs > To: Paul Leeks > Cc: > Sent: Tue, Nov 28, 2017 3:13 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] And I've just had my hair done! > > https://twitter.com/twitter/statuses/928000009664122880 > > for another animal > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Tue, Nov 28, 2017 at 9:42 AM, Paul Leeks wrote: > > Hopefully this link will work ... > > https://twitter.com/Motorwaymayhem_/status/93412330176450969 > 6?t=1&cn=ZmxleGlibGVfcmVjc18y&refsrc=email&iid=12ec313a11c64 > 678aae72d3a13a92650&uid=2969706147&nid=244+293670929 > > Paul Leeks > 100/6 BN4 > > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not > necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to > whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential > information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use > of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or > criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received > this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is > registered in England & Wales No. 2257022 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep@ > verizon.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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