From rv9aplane at gmail.com Fri Sep 1 11:50:23 2017 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2017 10:50:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Look at AH3000 BJ8 Phase II near Bakersfield? Hi all, I'd like to take a look at someone's 3000 somewhere near Bakersfield, CA. I have a '67 3000 BJ8 Phase II that I'm trying to restore but would like to see someone's example. Sometimes the parts book and shop manuals leave a lot to the imagination. I bought this car completely disassembled and have never owned one so a lot of it is a mystery to me. Anybody around this long weekend that would be willing to let me come and take a look and some pictures? Thanks! Sent from my iPad From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Sep 1 11:52:15 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2017 10:52:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 67 MGB Finally found my next project. A pretty clean barn find 67 MGB. It's been 40 years since I drove one and just sorting out the dash has been fun. It just arrived off the transporter from New Mexico. Happy roads to all and may our Texas friends be safe and dry. I hate to think about the classic cars that have been wrecked due to the storm Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MGB ours.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 593214 bytes Desc: not available URL: From peter at nosimport.com Fri Sep 1 13:27:15 2017 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2017 14:27:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK.IV ADO51 ADO52 + MGC? References: <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815@mail.yahoo.com> I am about to list on eBay a head gasket set with unusual packaging, I think.? Adds confusion to the comparison of Healey and MGC engines? Peter C -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 8G2537L.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 185439 bytes Desc: not available URL: From theswed at hotmail.com Fri Sep 1 14:05:33 2017 From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2017 20:05:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 for sale Healey List, After a 4 year full frame off restoration and an additional 13 years of ownership, it's time to sell my 1961 BT7. CA car still in CA. If anyone is or knows someone interested please contact me off the list for details. Thanks Kenny theswed at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Sep 1 15:41:28 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2017 14:41:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK.IV ADO51 ADO52 + MGC? References: <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815@mail.yahoo.com> I think the AH 3000 'Mk. IV' was going to be a badge-engineered MGC, until DMH put the kabosch on the idea, no?? Maybe the gasket co. jumped the gun. Bob On 9/1/2017 12:27 PM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > I am about to list on eBay a head gasket set with unusual packaging, I > think.? Adds confusion to the comparison of Healey and MGC engines? > > Peter C > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Sep 1 16:40:27 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2017 23:40:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Pitted chrome Thanks for the suggestions, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Fri Sep 1 16:41:08 2017 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2017 22:41:08 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] 67 MGB Congrats! Fun cars to work on and drive. I finished an MGB/GT last year and it's a great compliment to my Healey as I now have a station wagon! Steven Kingsbury On Sep 01, 2017, at 12:14 PM, i erbs wrote: Finally found my next project. A pretty clean barn find 67 MGB. It's been 40 years since I drove one and just sorting out the dash has been fun. It just arrived off the transporter from New Mexico. Happy roads to all and may our Texas friends be safe and dry. I hate to think about the classic cars that have been wrecked due to the storm Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MGB ours.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 593214 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jhomonek at mindspring.com Fri Sep 1 18:20:17 2017 From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2017 20:20:17 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] Large Healey Event in October - Register Now! An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhomonek at mindspring.com Fri Sep 1 18:39:39 2017 From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2017 20:39:39 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] Large Healey Event in October - Register Now! Make your plans today to join us for SE Classic XXXI. This event will be like a mini Conclave. The rural area and location are outstanding for Healey Fall Driving. 2017 Austin Healey Southeastern Classic The Atlanta Chapter of the Austin Healey Club of America is proud to announce that the 2017 Southeastern Classic will return to Lake Guntersville Sate Park in Northeast Alabama. October 12-15, 2017. You don?t want to miss this one. It will be a great time to spend with old and new friends experiencing wonderful fall temperatures, brilliant colors and magnificent sunsets at the Lake Guntersville Resort Lodge located high above the banks of the Tennessee River. There will be a full schedule of Healey activities including lakeside car show, Poker Rally, gymkhana, funkhana, regalia, valve cover races, awards banquet and of course some Friday night fun and laughter. If that?s not enough there will be free time to relax with friends, go antiquing in town, visit local vineyards, explore hiking trails, go caving, golfing or just drive your Austin Healey on the numerous back country roads. Many area attractions are also nearby such as the Huntsville Space Center. We have completed the set-up for on-line registration using this shortcut link: msreg.com/SEClassic . We have incorporated many features and content into the registration website to make it informative and user friendly. A .pdf version of the registration form is available upon request. FYI, the telephone number for room registration at Lake Guntersville State Park is 256-505-6621 and the group code is 5792 for our Austin Healey car show. See links for YouTube videos on the Southeastern Classic: 2017 SEC video: https://youtu.be/mSRfJJs0S-E 2016 SEC video: https://youtu.be/03-9bRQzk9U Please let us know if you have any questions. See you in October! See more and register online here:http://atlantahealeys.org/events/se-classic-xxxi-save-date-oct-12-15-2017/. John Homonek Atlanta AHCA 1959 BN7 1974 Jensen-Healey bn7 at mindspring.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Sep 1 19:53:57 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 11:53:57 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 67 MGB References: Hey Ira, Looks like fixing the handbrake could be high on the to do list! Best Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 2 Sep 2017, at 3:52 am, i erbs wrote: > > Finally found my next project. A pretty clean barn find 67 MGB. > It's been 40 years since I drove one and just sorting out the dash has been fun. It just arrived off the transporter from New Mexico. > Happy roads to all and may our Texas friends be safe and dry. I hate to think about the classic cars that have been wrecked due to the storm > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Fri Sep 1 18:38:10 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2017 20:38:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK.IV ADO51 ADO52 + MGC? References: <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815@mail.yahoo.com> <196554a0-a53b-3dbd-5264-08ff5441f632@comcast.net> Very interesting. Bob is right, ADO 51 and ADO 52 were the badge-engineered MG/Austin-Healey products that were to replace the Austin-Healey BJ8. ADO 51 was to be the Healey variant until DMH put the kibosh on it. A picture is attached. It was supposed to be the Mk IV, although after ADO 51 was dumped, the Rolls-Healey became known as the Mk IV. ADO 52 went on to being the MG-C, which evidenced DMH's foresight in canning it as the next Healey. I'm surprised BMC got as far along with the project to start producing replacement gasket sets under the ADO 51 numbering. I've written an article on the end of big Healey production that goes into greater depth on why the car ended production when it did, and it wasn't US safety regs as most of us have always thought. You'll have to wait until the Nov. issue of Healey Marque to read it, though. Rick Neville On Fri, Sep 1, 2017 at 5:41 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I think the AH 3000 'Mk. IV' was going to be a badge-engineered MGC, until > DMH put the kabosch on the idea, no? Maybe the gasket co. jumped the gun. > > Bob > > On 9/1/2017 12:27 PM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > > I am about to list on eBay a head gasket set with unusual packaging, I > think. Adds confusion to the comparison of Healey and MGC engines? > > Peter C > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Healey3000MKIV.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 61191 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Sep 1 21:23:13 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2017 20:23:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey MK.IV ADO51 ADO52 + MGC? References: <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815@mail.yahoo.com> <196554a0-a53b-3dbd-5264-08ff5441f632@comcast.net> Looks like this is a unique piece of Healey history.? Sorry, Peter, you need to donate this to the Healey Musem immediately. bs On 9/1/2017 5:38 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Very interesting.? Bob is right, ADO 51 and ADO 52 were the > badge-engineered MG/Austin-Healey products that were to replace the > Austin-Healey BJ8.? ADO 51 was to be the Healey variant until DMH put > the kibosh on it.? A picture is attached. It was supposed to be the Mk > IV, although after ADO 51 was dumped, the Rolls-Healey became known as > the Mk IV.? ADO 52 went on to being the MG-C, which evidenced DMH's > foresight in?canning it as the next Healey. > > I'm surprised BMC got as far along with the project to start producing > replacement gasket sets under the ADO 51 numbering. > > I've written an article on the end of big Healey production that goes > into greater depth on why the car ended production when it did, and it > wasn't US safety regs as most of us have always thought.? You'll have > to wait until the Nov. issue of Healey Marque to read it, though. > > Rick Neville > > On Fri, Sep 1, 2017 at 5:41 PM, Bob Spidell > I think the AH 3000 'Mk. IV' was going to be a badge-engineered > MGC, until DMH put the kabosch on the idea, no?? Maybe the gasket > co. jumped the gun. > > Bob > > > On 9/1/2017 12:27 PM, Peter Caldwell wrote: >> I am about to list on eBay a head gasket set with unusual >> packaging, I think.? Adds confusion to the comparison of Healey >> and MGC engines? >> >> Peter C >> >> >> > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Sat Sep 2 08:38:53 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 07:38:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Registry Is there a BN7 Registry? I just got the serial number of an important California race car.Ken FreeseAH Racing Historian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Sep 2 12:11:37 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 11:11:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carbs If I may lean on the Group's Wisdom (capitalized, as it is The wisdom).? My BJ8 runs fine, but is very hard starting.? The carbs are adjusted per the instructions, as is the choke.? Not easy to do the choke, but done.? When cold, the choke is needed for starting, and in fact, almost won't run without it, but once it's warm, choke not needed. Battery is charged, electrical connections all tight.? In fact, the starter spins rapidly. I have found that if I depress the float on one of the carbs for a couple of fuel pump clicks (in other words, priming it), it starts right up and idles and runs fine. Any ideas will be appreciated. Mike --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From baggsr at embarqmail.com Sat Sep 2 13:50:57 2017 From: baggsr at embarqmail.com (ROBERT BAGGS) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 15:50:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] carbs To add to this, my BJ8 carble on my BJ7 are hard to pull to cold start level. Is it the springs, a need to lubricate the cables? I'd like to learn more, too. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike S" To: "Healey List" Sent: Saturday, September 2, 2017 11:11:37 AM Subject: [Healeys] carbs If I may lean on the Group's Wisdom (capitalized, as it is The wisdom).? My BJ8 runs fine, but is very hard starting.? The carbs are adjusted per the instructions, as is the choke.? Not easy to do the choke, but done.? When cold, the choke is needed for starting, and in fact, almost won't run without it, but once it's warm, choke not needed. Battery is charged, electrical connections all tight.? In fact, the starter spins rapidly. I have found that if I depress the float on one of the carbs for a couple of fuel pump clicks (in other words, priming it), it starts right up and idles and runs fine. Any ideas will be appreciated. Mike --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Sep 2 13:58:13 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 15:58:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Registry References: <1572554800.1655815.1504363133274.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of goldengt at cal.net Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2017 10:39 AM To: Healeys, Forum Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Registry Is there a BN7 Registry? I just got the serial number of an important California race car. Ken Freese AH Racing Historian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sat Sep 2 15:09:41 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 17:09:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Registry References: <1572554800.1655815.1504363133274.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> Bob Haskell 1570 Saylor St Zionsville IN 46077 rchaskell at earthlink.net -----Original Message----- From: goldengt To: Healeys, Forum Sent: Sat, Sep 2, 2017 1:17 pm Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Registry Is there a BN7 Registry? I just got the serial number of an important California race car. Ken Freese AH Racing Historian _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Sep 2 15:33:27 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 14:33:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carbs References: <503a340f-8ca0-de40-36be-e32accd30679@comcast.net> Starts ok when warm (no choke), although sometimes the starter seems a little sluggish.? Hard to tell.? I believe the point gap is still ok, but will check.? Haven't checked the compression in a while.? Will do.? I keep thinking it's a choke problem, but they seem adjusted ok. Mike On 9/2/2017 1:27 PM, David Porter wrote: > ..does it start easily with chokes after warmed? Point gap? > Compression readings? > > > On 9/2/2017 12:11 PM, Mike S wrote: >> If I may lean on the Group's Wisdom (capitalized, as it is The >> wisdom).? My BJ8 runs fine, but is very hard starting.? The carbs are >> adjusted per the instructions, as is the choke.? Not easy to do the >> choke, but done.? When cold, the choke is needed for starting, and in >> fact, almost won't run without it, but once it's warm, choke not needed. >> >> Battery is charged, electrical connections all tight.? In fact, the >> starter spins rapidly. >> >> I have found that if I depress the float on one of the carbs for a >> couple of fuel pump clicks (in other words, priming it), it starts >> right up and idles and runs fine. >> >> Any ideas will be appreciated. >> >> Mike >> >> >> >> --- >> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. >> http://www.avg.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> > -- -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Sep 2 16:35:52 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 18:35:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 4-seater hardtop for sale This afternoon there was a four-seater roadster hardtop for sale for $800.00 at the swap meet at Lime Rock Park, CT. It was the usual--in need of a full restoration. I cannot now recall if it had metal moldings. The swap met goes on through Monday. No further interest or information. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 2 17:18:04 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 16:18:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carbs References: <2032538480.35430450.1504381857599.JavaMail.root@embarqmail.com> re: "... my BJ8 carble on my BJ7 are hard to pull to cold start level. Is it the springs, a need to lubricate the cables?" All of the above.? Plus, if the mechanical linkage that lowers the diaphragm jets are crudded-up, burred, etc. they will bind as well.? I've always assumed the mechanism--a cam in a 'shoe,'--that opens the throttles was kinda funky, if the 'shoe' is pinched a little it will resist movement. It helps a little if you push the gas pedal to the floor before you pull on the choke; takes the throttle springs out of the effort, at least.? Also, someone may have fitted stronger springs to alleviate the stuck 'choke' problem. Bob On 9/2/2017 12:50 PM, ROBERT BAGGS wrote: > To add to this, my BJ8 carble on my BJ7 are hard to pull to cold start level. Is it the springs, a need to lubricate the cables? I'd like to learn more, too. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mike S" > To: "Healey List" > Sent: Saturday, September 2, 2017 11:11:37 AM > Subject: [Healeys] carbs > > If I may lean on the Group's Wisdom (capitalized, as it is The wisdom). > My BJ8 runs fine, but is very hard starting.? The carbs are adjusted per > the instructions, as is the choke.? Not easy to do the choke, but done. > When cold, the choke is needed for starting, and in fact, almost won't > run without it, but once it's warm, choke not needed. > > Battery is charged, electrical connections all tight.? In fact, the > starter spins rapidly. > > I have found that if I depress the float on one of the carbs for a > couple of fuel pump clicks (in other words, priming it), it starts right > up and idles and runs fine. > > Any ideas will be appreciated. > > Mike > > > > From 050.rpl at gmail.com Sat Sep 2 17:19:46 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 19:19:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carbs References: <503a340f-8ca0-de40-36be-e32accd30679@comcast.net> Sound normal to me. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 2, 2017, at 2:11 PM, Mike S wrote: > > If I may lean on the Group's Wisdom (capitalized, as it is The wisdom). My BJ8 runs fine, but is very hard starting. The carbs are adjusted per the instructions, as is the choke. Not easy to do the choke, but done. When cold, the choke is needed for starting, and in fact, almost won't run without it, but once it's warm, choke not needed. > > Battery is charged, electrical connections all tight. In fact, the starter spins rapidly. > > I have found that if I depress the float on one of the carbs for a couple of fuel pump clicks (in other words, priming it), it starts right up and idles and runs fine. > > Any ideas will be appreciated. > > Mike > > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > http://www.avg.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com > From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 2 17:49:33 2017 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 19:49:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carbs References: <503a340f-8ca0-de40-36be-e32accd30679@comcast.net> First job , change to a electronic breaker less points , Stronger spark , less problems Don Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 2, 2017, at 5:33 PM, Mike S wrote: > > Starts ok when warm (no choke), although sometimes the starter seems a little sluggish. Hard to tell. I believe the point gap is still ok, but will check. Haven't checked the compression in a while. Will do. I keep thinking it's a choke problem, but they seem adjusted ok. > > Mike > >> On 9/2/2017 1:27 PM, David Porter wrote: >> ..does it start easily with chokes after warmed? Point gap? Compression readings? >> >> >>> On 9/2/2017 12:11 PM, Mike S wrote: >>> If I may lean on the Group's Wisdom (capitalized, as it is The wisdom). My BJ8 runs fine, but is very hard starting. The carbs are adjusted per the instructions, as is the choke. Not easy to do the choke, but done. When cold, the choke is needed for starting, and in fact, almost won't run without it, but once it's warm, choke not needed. >>> >>> Battery is charged, electrical connections all tight. In fact, the starter spins rapidly. >>> >>> I have found that if I depress the float on one of the carbs for a couple of fuel pump clicks (in other words, priming it), it starts right up and idles and runs fine. >>> >>> Any ideas will be appreciated. >>> >>> Mike >>> >>> >>> >>> --- >>> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. >>> http://www.avg.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com >>> >> > > -- > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 2 18:33:52 2017 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2017 00:33:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Registry References: <1572554800.1655815.1504363133274.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> <1504390380689.1665398838@boxbe> BN7 MKII ?is Thomas Blaskovics ? tomkayb at comcast.? From: John Sims To: goldengt at cal.net; "'Healeys, Forum'" Sent: Saturday, September 2, 2017 5:13 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Registry John Sims (ahbn6 at verizon.net) is not on your Guest List | Approve sender | Approve domain According to my records the BN7 phase one registrar is rchaskell at earthlink.net ?BN7 Phase 2 is Bill Bolton tricarb at aol.com ? ?John SimsAberdeen, NJ ?www.healey6.com ?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of goldengt at cal.net Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2017 10:39 AM To: Healeys, Forum Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Registry ?Is there a BN7 Registry? I just got the serial number of an important ?California race car.Ken FreeseAH Racing Historian_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Sep 2 21:47:00 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 23:47:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Registry References: <1572554800.1655815.1504363133274.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> <1504390380689.1665398838@boxbe> <1426901993.1712005.1504398832853@mail.yahoo.com> Tom Blaskovics is the BJ7 Registrar. Bob Haskell keeps the BN7 Mk I registry (rchaskell at earthlink.net) and Bill Bolton keeps the BN7/BT7 Mk II (tricarb) registry. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Brown Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2017 8:34 PM To: John Sims; goldengt at cal.net; 'Healeys, Forum' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Registry BN7 MKII is Thomas Blaskovics tomkayb at comcast. _____ From: John Sims To: goldengt at cal.net; "'Healeys, Forum'" Sent: Saturday, September 2, 2017 5:13 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN7 Registry Image removed by sender. BoxbeImage removed by sender.John Sims (ahbn6 at verizon.net) is not on your Guest List | Approve sender | Approve domain John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of goldengt at cal.net Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2017 10:39 AM To: Healeys, Forum Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Registry Is there a BN7 Registry? I just got the serial number of an important California race car. Ken Freese AH Racing Historian _______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD000.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From goldengt at cal.net Sat Sep 2 22:33:42 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2017 21:33:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Registry Ok, I got it.Thanks,?Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: John Sims Date: 9/2/17 12:58 PM (GMT-08:00) To: goldengt at cal.net, "'Healeys, Forum'" Subject: RE: [Healeys] BN7 Registry According to my records the BN7 phase one registrar is rchaskell at earthlink.net?BN7 Phase 2 is Bill Bolton tricarb at aol.com??John SimsAberdeen, NJ?www.healey6.com?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of goldengt at cal.net Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2017 10:39 AM To: Healeys, Forum Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Registry?Is there a BN7 Registry? I just got the serial number of an important ?California race car.Ken FreeseAH Racing Historian -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat Sep 2 22:49:51 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2017 21:49:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question After installing the new wiring harness, I encountered a puzzling situation. With the engine off and the ignition on, the OD solenoid would engage when the shift lever engaged the transmission switch irrespective of the position of the dash switch. That is, the solenoid would engage whether the dash switch was on or off. Further, if I depressed the accelerator, thus opening the throttle position switch, the solenoid would NOT engage under the same conditions. Hence, it seems that either the OD relay was engaged by the W1 terminal being energized or somehow the C2 terminal was energized. Unfortunately I caused a short in the throttle switch damaging my harness before I could trace this. Any thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun Sep 3 08:38:32 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2017 07:38:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question A couple of other factors: 1. The dash switch is not defective; it tests fine. 2. Removing the ground from the OD relay (terminal W2) had no effect; i.e., the solenoid still engaged when the lever was moved to the 3rd/4th position, indicating to me that the relay was not engaged and thus holding the relay points closed. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2017 9:50 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Overdrive wiring question After installing the new wiring harness, I encountered a puzzling situation. With the engine off and the ignition on, the OD solenoid would engage when the shift lever engaged the transmission switch irrespective of the position of the dash switch. That is, the solenoid would engage whether the dash switch was on or off. Further, if I depressed the accelerator, thus opening the throttle position switch, the solenoid would NOT engage under the same conditions. Hence, it seems that either the OD relay was engaged by the W1 terminal being energized or somehow the C2 terminal was energized. Unfortunately I caused a short in the throttle switch damaging my harness before I could trace this. Any thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Sep 3 09:35:44 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2017 11:35:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question References: <51ff01d324c2$54f7d5e0$fee781a0$@roadrunner.com> If a set of the relay points were somehow in mechanical contact regardless of the energizing or not of the relay coil, then you would get 12 volts at relay terminal C2 without the dash switch being on, and the symptoms you describe. It's not quite clear to me, however, why the throttle switch stops the symptoms with the throttle switch open. Remove the white wires from relay terminal C1 and the white/green ones from terminal C2 and check for continuity between those terminals. If you have continuity, then the relay is bad. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 10:39 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question A couple of other factors: 1. The dash switch is not defective; it tests fine. 2. Removing the ground from the OD relay (terminal W2) had no effect; i.e., the solenoid still engaged when the lever was moved to the 3rd/4th position, indicating to me that the relay was not engaged and thus holding the relay points closed. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2017 9:50 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Overdrive wiring question After installing the new wiring harness, I encountered a puzzling situation. With the engine off and the ignition on, the OD solenoid would engage when the shift lever engaged the transmission switch irrespective of the position of the dash switch. That is, the solenoid would engage whether the dash switch was on or off. Further, if I depressed the accelerator, thus opening the throttle position switch, the solenoid would NOT engage under the same conditions. Hence, it seems that either the OD relay was engaged by the W1 terminal being energized or somehow the C2 terminal was energized. Unfortunately I caused a short in the throttle switch damaging my harness before I could trace this. Any thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 _____ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Sun Sep 3 10:14:55 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2017 16:14:55 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required References: mppkdq8y6pSnAmppldbIca, <6C182DD3CC20404CB563AF62CBCA0AF4@AllInOne> Thanks to all who responded to this question. It seems likely that the early cast body solenoids were fitted until the end of "roadster" production. If anyone has a pre '63 car that has an original pressed steel solenoid I would appreciate hearing from you. Michael S ________________________________ From: Harold Manifold Sent: Saturday, September 2, 2017 12:21:42 PM To: 'Michael Salter' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required Michael, I am sending a picture of the starter solenoid from my AH 3000. I have replaced the solenoid in the picture but I believe it to be the original solenoid. It has the cast aluminum body but I could not see any part numbers. This is the car it was removed from: AH 3000 Mk 1 BT7 Chassis number 13154 Date of build Oct 28 - Nov 2 1960 I have a question. Are bellows type thermostats still available and can you suggest a source? Regards, Harold ________________________________ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 12:31 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required ?Oh wise ones!!! I'm working on the revisions to the Concours Guidelines for 2018 and have a ?question that some of you may be able to help with. Prior to about 1958 the starter solenoid used in Healeys was Lucas part number 76411. This type of solenoid can easily be identified by having a cast aluminum body as on the left on the pic attached. Later cars and all subsequent Lucas replacements had a pressed steel body as illustrated on the right. The change point is not noted in any of the parts books that I have. If anyone has an original car with its original solenoid from around that date I would appreciate hearing from you with the serial number of your car and the solenoid type fitted. Michael Salter Concours Guidelines Editor. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Sep 3 10:16:11 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2017 09:16:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats Hello, I am in the process of putting my AH 3000 engine back together and went looking for a recommendation for the engine thermostat. I was expecting to find a recommendation for the opening temperature but instead found information that recommends a bellows type thermostat should be used and the bellows is important or some of the coolant can bypass the radiator when the thermostat opens. If a bellows type thermostat is recommended is the correct type either the Smiths 85025 series or the AC Delco TF series? Is there a modern replacement bellows type thermostat that fails in the open position? Your comments and insight is welcomed. Harold 1960 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 3 11:47:45 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2017 10:47:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question References: <51ff01d324c2$54f7d5e0$fee781a0$@roadrunner.com> <002d01d324ca$4f09ea80$ed1dbf80$@rr.com> I'm too lazy to drag out the schematic, but Steve's comment begs the question--to me, at least--is the throttle 'kickdown' switch wired bass-ackwards? Also, since most of us are 'of a generation,' tip a bottle of your favorite brew to Walter Becker today. Bob On 9/3/2017 8:35 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > If a set of the relay points were somehow in mechanical contact > regardless of the energizing or not of the relay coil, then you would > get 12 volts at relay terminal C2 without the dash switch being on, > and the symptoms you describe.? It's not quite clear to me, however, > why the throttle switch stops the symptoms with the throttle switch open. > > Remove the white wires from relay terminal C1 and the white/green ones > from terminal C2 and check for continuity between those terminals.? If > you have continuity, then the relay is bad. > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bruce Steele > *Sent:* Sunday, September 03, 2017 10:39 AM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question > > A couple of other factors: > > 1.The dash switch is not defective; it tests fine. > > 2.Removing the ground from the OD relay (terminal W2) had no effect; > i.e., the solenoid still engaged when the lever was moved to the 3^rd > /4^th position, indicating to me that the relay was not engaged and > thus holding the relay points closed. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:* Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] > *Sent:* Saturday, September 02, 2017 9:50 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* Overdrive wiring question > > After installing the new wiring harness, I encountered a puzzling > situation.? With the engine off and the ignition on, the OD solenoid > would engage when the shift lever engaged the transmission switch > irrespective of the position of the dash switch.? That is, the > solenoid would engage whether the dash switch was on or off.? Further, > if I depressed the accelerator, thus opening the throttle position > switch, the solenoid would NOT engage under the same conditions.? > Hence, it seems that either the OD relay was engaged by the W1 > terminal being energized or somehow the C2 terminal was energized.? > Unfortunately I caused a short in the throttle switch damaging my > harness before I could trace this.? Any thoughts? > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Sep 3 13:24:49 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2017 19:24:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Disc Brake Conversion References: <224855336.2108133.1504466689206.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Someone on this list was kind enough to sell me the parts required to convert my BN2 from drum to front disc brakes.? Of course I had to buy some additional parts to complete the kit. (new splined hubs and the incredibly expensive studs to attach them to the rotors) I will probably not use the dust shield and am going to mount the Girling calipers to the mounting plate, but I can not figure out what bolts, washers and nut sizes to mount the caliper mounting plate to the stub axles.? Can someone tell me what these fasteners are?? Does anyone have a clear picture of the caliper assembly mounted to the car minus the disc? so I can see how this whole thing is put together?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Sep 3 13:32:57 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2017 15:32:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question References: <51ff01d324c2$54f7d5e0$fee781a0$@roadrunner.com> <002d01d324ca$4f09ea80$ed1dbf80$@rr.com> Bob, the throttle switch is a simple set of contacts closed by a cam. It doesn't matter which way the two wires are connected to it. However, it would be a good idea to verify that the wires are connected properly to the relay, especially since a new wiring harness has just been installed. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 1:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question I'm too lazy to drag out the schematic, but Steve's comment begs the question--to me, at least--is the throttle 'kickdown' switch wired bass-ackwards? Also, since most of us are 'of a generation,' tip a bottle of your favorite brew to Walter Becker today. Bob On 9/3/2017 8:35 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: If a set of the relay points were somehow in mechanical contact regardless of the energizing or not of the relay coil, then you would get 12 volts at relay terminal C2 without the dash switch being on, and the symptoms you describe. It's not quite clear to me, however, why the throttle switch stops the symptoms with the throttle switch open. Remove the white wires from relay terminal C1 and the white/green ones from terminal C2 and check for continuity between those terminals. If you have continuity, then the relay is bad. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 10:39 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question A couple of other factors: 1. The dash switch is not defective; it tests fine. 2. Removing the ground from the OD relay (terminal W2) had no effect; i.e., the solenoid still engaged when the lever was moved to the 3rd/4th position, indicating to me that the relay was not engaged and thus holding the relay points closed. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2017 9:50 PM Subject: Overdrive wiring question After installing the new wiring harness, I encountered a puzzling situation. With the engine off and the ignition on, the OD solenoid would engage when the shift lever engaged the transmission switch irrespective of the position of the dash switch. That is, the solenoid would engage whether the dash switch was on or off. Further, if I depressed the accelerator, thus opening the throttle position switch, the solenoid would NOT engage under the same conditions. Hence, it seems that either the OD relay was engaged by the W1 terminal being energized or somehow the C2 terminal was energized. Unfortunately I caused a short in the throttle switch damaging my harness before I could trace this. Any thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 _____ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Overdrive Relay Wiring Connections.bmp Type: image/bmp Size: 1299650 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sun Sep 3 14:40:30 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2017 13:40:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question References: <51ff01d324c2$54f7d5e0$fee781a0$@roadrunner.com> <002d01d324ca$4f09ea80$ed1dbf80$@rr.com> <005c01d324eb$775e4e60$661aeb20$@rr.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Sun Sep 3 21:41:48 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 15:41:48 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats References: <963C5674CE374B50AC12785412191771@AllInOne> Avoid the bellows thermostat, they are all old now and as you noted, fail closed. I put one in my engine and it failed within three months, fortunately without engine damage as I saw the temp rising. If you look at the design, they don't really block the bypass flow, more they limit it somewhat. The bypass port is radial and it doesn't actually seal in any way, the ring just comes down in front to reduce the flow. Modern engines have the same principle but have a spring-loaded disc instead of a ring and the disc seals over the bypass port axially. The vast majority of engines run just fine with the later wax stat as long as the system is in good shape and the car doesn't spend a long time idling in traffic. There are replacement wax thermostats available with the bypass port block-off ring but they are not particularly cheap. Considerably cheaper than an engine reco due to overheating though. Andy. On 9/4/17, Harold Manifold wrote: > Hello, > > I am in the process of putting my AH 3000 engine back together and went > looking for a recommendation for the engine thermostat. I was expecting to > find a recommendation for the opening temperature but instead found > information that recommends a bellows type thermostat should be used and > the > bellows is important or some of the coolant can bypass the radiator when > the > thermostat opens. If a bellows type thermostat is recommended is the > correct > type either the Smiths 85025 series or the AC Delco TF series? Is there a > modern replacement bellows type thermostat that fails in the open position? > > Your comments and insight is welcomed. > > Harold > > 1960 BT7 > > > From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sun Sep 3 21:46:46 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2017 20:46:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?electrical_problem?= no brake lights. pressure switch checks OK. wire from fuse box to switch good. wire from switch to tab 5 on the relay box checks fine for continuity, but no voltage coming through. knowing less about electricity than i should, anyone have a guess as to what is happening. i thought the relay box might be bad, but with no volts coming through the wire it threw me off. signal lights work fine. will try to isolate problem tomorrow. any help appreciated. From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 3 22:24:51 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2017 21:24:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats References: <963C5674CE374B50AC12785412191771@AllInOne> You speak the truth. re: "... There are replacement wax thermostats available with the bypass port block-off ring but they are not particularly cheap." Typically a Robertshaw stat with the ring soldered on.? I have one installed; can't say it's worth more than a degree or two at most; but Robertshaw appears to be a solid brand. One question, though: I think Moss and maybe other vendors sell a repop bellows type; anyone know if they're fail-close? Bob On 9/3/2017 8:41 PM, A H List wrote: > Avoid the bellows thermostat, they are all old now and as you noted, > fail closed. I put one in my engine and it failed within three months, > fortunately without engine damage as I saw the temp rising. > > If you look at the design, they don't really block the bypass flow, > more they limit it somewhat. The bypass port is radial and it doesn't > actually seal in any way, the ring just comes down in front to reduce > the flow. Modern engines have the same principle but have a > spring-loaded disc instead of a ring and the disc seals over the > bypass port axially. > > The vast majority of engines run just fine with the later wax stat as > long as the system is in good shape and the car doesn't spend a long > time idling in traffic. There are replacement wax thermostats > available with the bypass port block-off ring but they are not > particularly cheap. Considerably cheaper than an engine reco due to > overheating though. > > Andy. > > On 9/4/17, Harold Manifold wrote: >> Hello, >> >> I am in the process of putting my AH 3000 engine back together and went >> looking for a recommendation for the engine thermostat. I was expecting to >> find a recommendation for the opening temperature but instead found >> information that recommends a bellows type thermostat should be used and >> the >> bellows is important or some of the coolant can bypass the radiator when >> the >> thermostat opens. If a bellows type thermostat is recommended is the >> correct >> type either the Smiths 85025 series or the AC Delco TF series? Is there a >> modern replacement bellows type thermostat that fails in the open position? >> >> Your comments and insight is welcomed. >> >> Harold >> >> 1960 BT7 >> >> >> >> From kags at shaw.ca Sun Sep 3 23:55:07 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2017 22:55:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question References: <51ff01d324c2$54f7d5e0$fee781a0$@roadrunner.com> <002d01d324ca$4f09ea80$ed1dbf80$@rr.com> <005c01d324eb$775e4e60$661aeb20$@rr.com> <20170903204030.4612180.89464.9263@gmail.com> Bruce: what Roland is saying is correct ? a maladjusted throttle switch can cause problems. Here is what I would do, having just gone through this whole thing yesterday on a buddies BN6: after doing whatever repair is necessary to the harness, (and double checking the connections at the relay), disconnect either one of the throttle switch leads at the switch (tape the loose lead just because) and run the test again. If the solenoid goes in and out with the dash switch on and the gear lever being moved in and out of the 3 ?4 position, then the relay is good and the throttle switch is not set right. (incidetally, the car can be driven this way, the overdrive will simply switch out as soon as the dash switch is turned off,) If the solenoid does not activate at all, the relay is bad and the power is going to the solenoid through the throttle switch. Setting the throttle switch correctly is pretty tricky on a Healey ? requires a lot of beer and bad language. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 1:40 PM To: BJ8Healeys ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question True that the throttle switch is a simple set of spst contacts. But it is really easy to tighten the mechanical arm on that switch in a position so that pressing the throttle does the opposite of what you want. ?Worth checking that the switch opens when you want it open and closed when you want it closed. -Roland Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. From: BJ8Healeys Sent: Sunday, September 3, 2017 1:25 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question Bob, the throttle switch is a simple set of contacts closed by a cam. It doesn't matter which way the two wires are connected to it. However, it would be a good idea to verify that the wires are connected properly to the relay, especially since a new wiring harness has just been installed. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 1:48 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question I'm too lazy to drag out the schematic, but Steve's comment begs the question--to me, at least--is the throttle 'kickdown' switch wired bass-ackwards? Also, since most of us are 'of a generation,' tip a bottle of your favorite brew to Walter Becker today. Bob On 9/3/2017 8:35 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: If a set of the relay points were somehow in mechanical contact regardless of the energizing or not of the relay coil, then you would get 12 volts at relay terminal C2 without the dash switch being on, and the symptoms you describe. It's not quite clear to me, however, why the throttle switch stops the symptoms with the throttle switch open. Remove the white wires from relay terminal C1 and the white/green ones from terminal C2 and check for continuity between those terminals. If you have continuity, then the relay is bad. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 10:39 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question A couple of other factors: 1. The dash switch is not defective; it tests fine. 2. Removing the ground from the OD relay (terminal W2) had no effect; i.e., the solenoid still engaged when the lever was moved to the 3rd/4th position, indicating to me that the relay was not engaged and thus holding the relay points closed. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2017 9:50 PM To: 'Healey List' mailto:healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Overdrive wiring question After installing the new wiring harness, I encountered a puzzling situation. With the engine off and the ignition on, the OD solenoid would engage when the shift lever engaged the transmission switch irrespective of the position of the dash switch. That is, the solenoid would engage whether the dash switch was on or off. Further, if I depressed the accelerator, thus opening the throttle position switch, the solenoid would NOT engage under the same conditions. Hence, it seems that either the OD relay was engaged by the W1 terminal being energized or somehow the C2 terminal was energized. Unfortunately I caused a short in the throttle switch damaging my harness before I could trace this. Any thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Sep 4 00:19:32 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 14:19:32 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats References: <963C5674CE374B50AC12785412191771@AllInOne> Hey Harold - With the bellows type thermostat, your car will definitely heat up faster and run cooler, but the bellows type isn't ideal because when it fails, it fails in the closed position. Here's a good article explaining which type you want. Moss 434-155 is a better unit, but only available in 160 deg (I think). For six cylinder cars 160 deg thermostat is good enough for most climates south of the mason dixon line. http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/434-155.pdf Best, Alan On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 12:16 AM, Harold Manifold wrote: > Hello, > > I am in the process of putting my AH 3000 engine back together and went > looking for a recommendation for the engine thermostat. I was expecting to > find a recommendation for the opening temperature but instead found > information that recommends a bellows type thermostat should be used and > the bellows is important or some of the coolant can bypass the radiator > when the thermostat opens. If a bellows type thermostat is recommended is > the correct type either the Smiths 85025 series or the AC Delco TF series? > Is there a modern replacement bellows type thermostat that fails in the > open position? > > Your comments and insight is welcomed. > > Harold > > 1960 BT7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Mon Sep 4 05:20:18 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 13:20:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats References: <963C5674CE374B50AC12785412191771@AllInOne> Hi Why not block the bypass channel once and for all, maybe combined with a little hole in the termostat lid to allow some circulation. I have done this with a piece from a little cat food can. It works very well. An other way to do it would be to make a new water pump gasket without the hole for the bypass. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Sep 4 06:33:18 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 08:33:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question References: <51ff01d324c2$54f7d5e0$fee781a0$@roadrunner.com> <002d01d324ca$4f09ea80$ed1dbf80$@rr.com> <005c01d324eb$775e4e60$661aeb20$@rr.com> <20170903204030.4612180.89464.9263@gmail.com> Maybe I just got lucky, but I had to set the adjustment on the throttle switch recently when the overdrive began disengaging as soon as the dash switch was turned off. Being out of beer at the time, I used a test light connected to the throttle switch and inserted a 3/16" (5 mm) drill bit between the throttle stop and lever (as directed by the workshop manual), then adjusted the switch until the light just went out. That worked perfectly the first time. I used bad language anyway, just for fun....winking0001.gif Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Earl Kagna Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 1:55 AM To: Roland Wilhelmy; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question Setting the throttle switch correctly is pretty tricky on a Healey ? requires a lot of beer and bad language. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Sep 4 07:40:10 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 09:40:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats References: <963C5674CE374B50AC12785412191771@AllInOne> <956BB4C9-7AB6-43D4-B205-36C71FFC382B@schoerner.se> Moss sells a thermostat bypass blanking sleeve. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=69821 I wonder if you could combine this with a "standard" thermostat to approach the original with the sleeve? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/04/2017 07:20 AM, Per Schoerner wrote: > Hi > Why not block the bypass channel once and for all, maybe combined with a little hole in the termostat lid to allow some circulation. > I have done this with a piece from a little cat food can. It works very well. An other way to do it would be to make a new water pump gasket without the hole for the bypass. > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From steveg at abrazosdata.com Mon Sep 4 07:58:53 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2017 05:58:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?_Bellows_Thermostats_-_alternatives_to?= Harold, See this forum discussion of these alternatives - with pictures: http://tinyurl.com/y8ccg6wp >>> Subject: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats Hello, I am in the process of putting my AH 3000 engine back together and went looking for a recommendation for the engine thermostat. I was expecting to find a recommendation for the opening temperature but instead found information that recommends a bellows type thermostat should be used and the bellows is important or some of the coolant can bypass the radiator when the thermostat opens. If a bellows type thermostat is recommended is the correct type either the Smiths 85025 series or the AC Delco TF series? Is there a modern replacement bellows type thermostat that fails in the open position? Your comments and insight is welcomed. Harold 1960 BT7 <<< -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of Most Complete Rear Disc Kit From roggrace at telus.net Mon Sep 4 08:13:36 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 07:13:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer rattles squeaks and groans too ! I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that ambient. So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near the rear carb intake. In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec. rad fan off Water is 190F Oil is 165- 170F Engine compartment is around 130F At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic Water is 200F Oil is 180 F Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet spot. So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting and how ? Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. Ideas comments welcome. On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ? rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Sep 4 08:19:19 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 14:19:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats References: <963C5674CE374B50AC12785412191771@AllInOne> <956BB4C9-7AB6-43D4-B205-36C71FFC382B@schoerner.se> <32fce757-dc13-f3ee-5026-cd5a6230faf5@earthlink.net> The blanking sleeve has a small lip that sits in the same recess as the thermostat. ?Not sure both the blanking sleeve lip and a thermostat together will fit and seal the cover correctly.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 7:07 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: Moss sells a thermostat bypass blanking sleeve. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=69821 I wonder if you could combine this with a "standard" thermostat to approach the original with the sleeve? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/04/2017 07:20 AM, Per Schoerner wrote: > Hi > Why not block the bypass channel once and for all, maybe combined with a little hole in the termostat lid to allow some circulation. > I have done this with a piece from a little cat food can. It works very well. An other way to do it would be to make a new water pump gasket without the hole for the bypass. > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Mon Sep 4 08:30:26 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 16:30:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats References: <963C5674CE374B50AC12785412191771@AllInOne> <956BB4C9-7AB6-43D4-B205-36C71FFC382B@schoerner.se> <32fce757-dc13-f3ee-5026-cd5a6230faf5@earthlink.net> <175035024.2445102.1504534759562@mail.yahoo.com> That will probably work fine, my cat food can and an ordinary thermostat live together in the recess. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 4 sep. 2017 kl. 16:19 skrev Michael MacLean : > > The blanking sleeve has a small lip that sits in the same recess as the thermostat. Not sure both the blanking sleeve lip and a thermostat together will fit and seal the cover correctly. > Mike MacLean > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 4 11:03:50 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 10:03:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: <297E23C54BE0484892950BB052CAC756@WINDOWST93OFP9> re: "...On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising? ? Results ?" There's a long thread on ahexp.com on this topic.? It's for 100s, but should be applicable to 6-cyl cars as well.? Here's one fellow's solution: http://www.ahexp.com/phorum/read.php?4,186244,page=5 Bob On 9/4/2017 7:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote: > My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower > ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer > rattles squeaks and groans too ! > I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. > Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is > already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to > increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming > too rich for that > ambient. > So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near > the rear carb intake. > In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? > elec. > rad fan off > Water is 190F > Oil is 165- 170F > Engine compartment is around 130F > At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic > Water is 200F > Oil is 180 F > Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid > stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. > Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet > spot. > So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment > venting > and how ? > Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. > Ideas comments welcome. > On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler > air to > the carb intake area when cruising? ? Results ? > rg > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Mon Sep 4 11:05:10 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 13:05:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: <297E23C54BE0484892950BB052CAC756@WINDOWST93OFP9> Roger: Have you considered coating the exhaust manifolds, so as to conduct the heat down the exhaust system, as opposed to allowing the manifolds to be their usual heat radiating selves? I?m still thinking a winter project will be getting mine coated [Jet-Hot, etc.]. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 10:14 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer rattles squeaks and groans too ! I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that ambient. So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near the rear carb intake. In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec. rad fan off Water is 190F Oil is 165- 170F Engine compartment is around 130F At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic Water is 200F Oil is 180 F Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet spot. So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting and how ? Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. Ideas comments welcome. On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ? rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Mon Sep 4 11:08:02 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 13:08:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question References: <51ff01d324c2$54f7d5e0$fee781a0$@roadrunner.com> Bruce - random thought: You indicate below [#2] that you removed the ground from the relay. I assume you mean to say you removed the ground __ wire__ from the relay. Is it possible the relay was still grounded directly to the body? Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, September 3, 2017 10:39 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question A couple of other factors: 1. The dash switch is not defective; it tests fine. 2. Removing the ground from the OD relay (terminal W2) had no effect; i.e., the solenoid still engaged when the lever was moved to the 3rd/4th position, indicating to me that the relay was not engaged and thus holding the relay points closed. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2017 9:50 PM Subject: Overdrive wiring question After installing the new wiring harness, I encountered a puzzling situation. With the engine off and the ignition on, the OD solenoid would engage when the shift lever engaged the transmission switch irrespective of the position of the dash switch. That is, the solenoid would engage whether the dash switch was on or off. Further, if I depressed the accelerator, thus opening the throttle position switch, the solenoid would NOT engage under the same conditions. Hence, it seems that either the OD relay was engaged by the W1 terminal being energized or somehow the C2 terminal was energized. Unfortunately I caused a short in the throttle switch damaging my harness before I could trace this. Any thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 4 11:14:02 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 10:14:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question References: <51ff01d324c2$54f7d5e0$fee781a0$@roadrunner.com> <002d01d324ca$4f09ea80$ed1dbf80$@rr.com> <005c01d324eb$775e4e60$661aeb20$@rr.com> <20170903204030.4612180.89464.9263@gmail.com> <008c01d32579$fd12bad0$f7383070$@rr.com> I'm working from memory--will check the manual later--but the way I interpreted the instructions were to adjust the switch with the throttles a spec distance--prob. the 3/16" as Steve mentions--opened.? For some reason, I thought this should be achieved by pressing on the accelerator pedal to achieve this setting which, of course, would pull up any slack in the Rube Goldberg throttle mechanism.? So, I set it this way but felt that it required too much pedal when disengaging the OD.? I just fiddled with the adjustment to where the OD disengaged with what I felt was appropriate pedal.? Maybe the 3/16" should be measured without allowing for linkage slack, maybe not; does anyone know for sure? Bob On 9/4/2017 5:33 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > Maybe I just got lucky, but I had to set the adjustment on the > throttle switch recently when the overdrive began disengaging as soon > as the dash switch was turned off.? Being out of beer at the time, I > used a test light connected to the throttle switch and inserted a > 3/16" (5 mm) drill bit between the throttle stop and lever (as > directed by the workshop manual), then adjusted the switch until the > light just went out.? ?That worked perfectly the first time.?? I used > bad language anyway, just for fun....winking0001.gif > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Earl Kagna > *Sent:* Monday, September 04, 2017 1:55 AM > *To:* Roland Wilhelmy; Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question > > Setting the throttle switch correctly is pretty tricky on a Healey ? > requires a lot of beer and bad language. > > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BJ8, BT7 tri-carb > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 696 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 4 11:22:27 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 10:22:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats References: <963C5674CE374B50AC12785412191771@AllInOne> Slightly OT, but I think we owe Moss--in particular, Michael Grant, who I believe writes most of them--some gratitude for producing these tech tip docs.? They have really helped me out several times; I just found one that explains an ingenious--one of those techniques that has you slapping your forehead because you didn't think of it--way to set the 'steady posts' in drum brakes correctly. If you make a phone order from Moss you might mention how helpful they are, so they keep them coming. Bob On 9/3/2017 11:19 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Hey Harold - > > With the bellows type thermostat, your car will definitely heat up > faster and run cooler, but the bellows type isn't ideal because when > it fails, it fails in the closed position. > > Here's a good article explaining which type you want.? Moss 434-155 is > a better unit, but only available in 160 deg (I think).? For six > cylinder cars 160 deg thermostat is good enough for most climates > south of the mason dixon line. > > http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/434-155.pdf > > Best, > > Alan > > On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 12:16 AM, Harold Manifold > Hello, > I am in the process of putting my AH 3000 engine back together and > went looking for a recommendation for the engine thermostat. I was > expecting to find a recommendation for the opening temperature but > instead found information that recommends a bellows type > thermostat should be used and the bellows is important or some of > the coolant can bypass the radiator when the thermostat opens. If > a bellows type thermostat is recommended is the correct type > either the Smiths 85025 series or the AC Delco TF series? Is there > a modern replacement bellows type thermostat that fails in the > open position? > Your comments and insight is welcomed. > Harold > 1960 BT7 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kags at shaw.ca Mon Sep 4 12:31:47 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 11:31:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required References: mppkdq8y6pSnAmppldbIca, <6C182DD3CC20404CB563AF62CBCA0AF4@AllInOne> Hmmm! My 1962 tri-carb # 18617 ? May 1962 - has the later type solenoid. I am virtually certain that it is the original ? I am the 2nd owner, bought the car with some 45,000 miles on it approx 24 years ago. The entire car is very, very, original. It could be that the later solenoid start point was at the BJ7 introduction, which was before this car was built. Which would mean that all top shift tri?carbs (both BT and BN7?s) would have the late type solenoid. Interesting stuff! Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Michael Salter Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 9:14 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required Thanks to all who responded to this question. It seems likely that the early cast body solenoids were fitted until the end of "roadster" production. If anyone has a pre '63 car that has an original pressed steel solenoid I would appreciate hearing from you. Michael S -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Harold Manifold Sent: Saturday, September 2, 2017 12:21:42 PM To: 'Michael Salter' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required Michael, I am sending a picture of the starter solenoid from my AH 3000. I have replaced the solenoid in the picture but I believe it to be the original solenoid. It has the cast aluminum body but I could not see any part numbers. This is the car it was removed from: AH 3000 Mk 1 BT7 Chassis number 13154 Date of build Oct 28 - Nov 2 1960 I have a question. Are bellows type thermostats still available and can you suggest a source? Regards, Harold -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 12:31 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required ?Oh wise ones!!! I'm working on the revisions to the Concours Guidelines for 2018 and have a ?question that some of you may be able to help with. Prior to about 1958 the starter solenoid used in Healeys was Lucas part number 76411. This type of solenoid can easily be identified by having a cast aluminum body as on the left on the pic attached. Later cars and all subsequent Lucas replacements had a pressed steel body as illustrated on the right. The change point is not noted in any of the parts books that I have. If anyone has an original car with its original solenoid from around that date I would appreciate hearing from you with the serial number of your car and the solenoid type fitted. Michael Salter Concours Guidelines Editor. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1030724.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 4389791 bytes Desc: not available URL: From goldengt at cal.net Mon Sep 4 12:41:43 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2017 11:41:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle The painter centered the bonnet in the hole so now the hinges rattle. Stuffing cardboard on each side of the hinge stops the rattle. Any better appearing suggestions? Root cause is bent bonnet remains bent for the time being so that the rubber buffers are not touching the bonnet.?Ken Freese?65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Sep 4 12:49:45 2017 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 14:49:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps I have a BN1, so things are a bit different, but temps under the bonnet get way up there and my front float bowl is directly over my exhaust without a heat shield. In the past, my car would vapor lock like crazy, the fuel in the front float bowl boiling away. I was a member of the SoCal Healey club then and a few of us were having the same problem. Nothing seemed to work. And then George McHarris came up with the solution. And I followed suit and haven't had the problem since. What we did was mount a marine bilge fan along side the upper end of our radiators. Being it's a DC motor, just wire it so the air flows in the correct direction and add some 4" flex to both ends. One end goes to right behind your grill to suck in the cooler air and the other end off the fan goes to right in front of your carbs. Mine is aimed directly at the front float bowl. Did this almost ten years ago now and have had zero problems since with vapor lock. I can sit in traffic and get to 212 and the car still idles just fine. I put the fan in place with zip ties, so didn't have to drill any holes and everything can come out in a matter of minutes if necessary. Got the fan on eBay under thirty dollars and since it was white, I painted it with flat black paint. Works like a charm and don't see any reason why this couldn't be done in a BJ8 engine bay with some minor tweaking of positions of the fan. First temporary installation, wired in place. Blows air right on front float bowl. Switch on shelf to turn on and off when needed. In a message dated 9/4/2017 10:09:46 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, roggrace at telus.net writes: My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer rattles squeaks and groans too ! I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that ambient. So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near the rear carb intake. In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec. rad fan off Water is 190F Oil is 165- 170F Engine compartment is around 130F At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic Water is 200F Oil is 180 F Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet spot. So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting and how ? Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. Ideas comments welcome. On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ? rg _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2577.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 48666 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2582.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 38248 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 4 13:37:47 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 12:37:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: <297E23C54BE0484892950BB052CAC756@WINDOWST93OFP9> <027f01d3259f$f7fee020$e7fca060$@bighealey.org> FWIW, I just had the manifolds on my BJ8 Jet-Hot coated and haven't noticed much, if any, difference in running temps or other effects (I also wrapped my downpipes).? YMMV. Bob On 9/4/2017 10:05 AM, Al Fuller wrote: > > Roger: > > Have you considered coating the exhaust manifolds, so as to conduct > the heat down the exhaust system, as opposed to allowing the manifolds > to be their usual heat radiating selves? > > I?m still thinking a winter project will be getting mine coated > [Jet-Hot, etc.]. > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Roger Grace > *Sent:* Monday, September 4, 2017 10:14 AM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] BJ8 Temps > > My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower > > ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer > > rattles squeaks and groans too ! > > I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. > > Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is > > already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to > > increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming > too rich for that > > ambient. > > So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near > > the rear carb intake. > > In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? > elec. > > rad fan off > > Water is 190F > > Oil is 165- 170F > > Engine compartment is around 130F > > At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic > > Water is 200F > > Oil is 180 F > > Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid > > stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. > > Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet > > spot. > > So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment > venting > > and how ? > > Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. > > Ideas comments welcome. > > On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler > air to > > the carb intake area when cruising? ? Results ? > > rg > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 4 14:19:44 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 13:19:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Free BJ8 Brake Rotors - SF Bay Area I have a pair of used but pristine rotors for a (later) BJ8 free for the taking.? They have surface rust inside the hat, which I neglected to paint, but the braking surfaces are mirror-smooth and shouldn't need turning.? The only reason I'm not reusing them is I bought new ones many years ago and since I'm putting in new bearings and pads--which I also bought years ago--I figured I'd use the new rotors while I'm at it. Pick up only.? I'm in San Jose near 280 and Saratoga. Bob From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Sep 4 14:44:46 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 20:44:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Chassis ID Plate Location References: <587540249.2648095.1504557886348.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Can someone give me an approximate measurement to locate the two holes for the chassis ID Plate on my BN2? ?I guess they were filled in during the body work. ?I have to have a chassis plate on it to show the DMV.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Mon Sep 4 15:36:44 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 14:36:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats References: <963C5674CE374B50AC12785412191771@AllInOne> oyqndZd8zNnSvoyqod4IXn Thank-you all for the good suggestions. I am planning to try this Robertshaw thermostat and will keep you apprised of developments. FlowKooler 330-180 - FlowKooler Robertshaw Series High Performance Thermostats _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 10:22 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats Slightly OT, but I think we owe Moss--in particular, Michael Grant, who I believe writes most of them--some gratitude for producing these tech tip docs. They have really helped me out several times; I just found one that explains an ingenious--one of those techniques that has you slapping your forehead because you didn't think of it--way to set the 'steady posts' in drum brakes correctly. If you make a phone order from Moss you might mention how helpful they are, so they keep them coming. Bob On 9/3/2017 11:19 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: Hey Harold - With the bellows type thermostat, your car will definitely heat up faster and run cooler, but the bellows type isn't ideal because when it fails, it fails in the closed position. Here's a good article explaining which type you want. Moss 434-155 is a better unit, but only available in 160 deg (I think). For six cylinder cars 160 deg thermostat is good enough for most climates south of the mason dixon line. http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/434-155.pdf Best, Alan On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 12:16 AM, Harold Manifold wrote: Hello, I am in the process of putting my AH 3000 engine back together and went looking for a recommendation for the engine thermostat. I was expecting to find a recommendation for the opening temperature but instead found information that recommends a bellows type thermostat should be used and the bellows is important or some of the coolant can bypass the radiator when the thermostat opens. If a bellows type thermostat is recommended is the correct type either the Smiths 85025 series or the AC Delco TF series? Is there a modern replacement bellows type thermostat that fails in the open position? Your comments and insight is welcomed. Harold 1960 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Sep 4 16:15:54 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 18:15:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question References: <51ff01d324c2$54f7d5e0$fee781a0$@roadrunner.com> <002d01d324ca$4f09ea80$ed1dbf80$@rr.com> <005c01d324eb$775e4e60$661aeb20$@rr.com> <20170903204030.4612180.89464.9263@gmail.com> <008c01d32579$fd12bad0$f7383070$@rr.com> <186fb978-eba5-022c-65eb-085774f163b4@comcast.net> The manual says: "Connect a low-consumption test lamp (a 12 volt 2.2 watt fascia panel light bulb is suitable) [I made a test lamp out of a single filament turn signal bulb and a spare bulb holder I had lying around] between the top terminal "A" (Fig. G.13)[of the throttle switch] and a convenient earthing point. The bulb should light when the overdrive and the ignition are both switched on, and the gear lever is set in the third or top gear position. When the overdrive is switched off, the bulb should remain alight with the throttle still closed. Progressively open the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal until the light goes out. Check the position of the throttle opening when this occurs: it should be one-fifth open. This position of the throttle has been reached when a 3/16 in. (5 mm.) diameter rod can be just passed between the throttle stop screw and the stop lever on the HD type of carburetter, or when a feeler gauge of 0.048 in. (1.22 mm.) thickness can be inserted between the throttle stop screw and the stop on the H4 type of carburetter used on earlier engines." The manual procedure would account for any system slack, but it also requires two people: one to operate the pedal and another to monitor the light and check the position of the throttle plates when it goes out. It would also require access to the throttle plates, and an estimate of what is "one fifth open". If that is related to the 3/16" rod, then why not just use the rod and adjust until the light goes out? I have an "overdrive warning" light just above the dash switch that I installed back in the '80s when I didn't mind drilling a new hole in the dash. When the switch is adjusted properly, the light stays on when the dash switch is turned off and then goes off with what seems to me a reasonable movement of the pedal. I would say it isn't necessary to account for slack in the system when using the 3/16" rod. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 1:14 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question I'm working from memory--will check the manual later--but the way I interpreted the instructions were to adjust the switch with the throttles a spec distance--prob. the 3/16" as Steve mentions--opened. For some reason, I thought this should be achieved by pressing on the accelerator pedal to achieve this setting which, of course, would pull up any slack in the Rube Goldberg throttle mechanism. So, I set it this way but felt that it required too much pedal when disengaging the OD. I just fiddled with the adjustment to where the OD disengaged with what I felt was appropriate pedal. Maybe the 3/16" should be measured without allowing for linkage slack, maybe not; does anyone know for sure? Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Mon Sep 4 17:04:52 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 19:04:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: <297E23C54BE0484892950BB052CAC756@WINDOWST93OFP9> -----Original Message----- From: Roger Grace To: Healey List Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 2:39 pm Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer rattles squeaks and groans too ! I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that ambient. So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near the rear carb intake. In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec. rad fan off Water is 190F Oil is 165- 170F Engine compartment is around 130F At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic Water is 200F Oil is 180 F Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet spot. So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting and how ? Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. Ideas comments welcome. On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ? rg _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Mon Sep 4 17:07:18 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 19:07:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: <297E23C54BE0484892950BB052CAC756@WINDOWST93OFP9> Roger, I seem to have similar effects of T on running of my BJ8. Went out recently and car ran great for 10 miles then the rest of the trip not so much. I woud be in interested in what you come up with. Keith -----Original Message----- From: Roger Grace To: Healey List Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 2:39 pm Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer rattles squeaks and groans too ! I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that ambient. So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near the rear carb intake. In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec. rad fan off Water is 190F Oil is 165- 170F Engine compartment is around 130F At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic Water is 200F Oil is 180 F Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet spot. So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting and how ? Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. Ideas comments welcome. On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ? rg _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Sep 4 18:52:08 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 20:52:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shift lever issue (no Healey content) During today's last session at the LRPHF the gear gear shift lever broke at the point where the threading for the knob stops. The threads on the lever accepted an MG shift knob which I believe to be 5/16"-24 UNF. The lever is about 1/2" in diameter and it is still long enough to use with a new knob. >From the standpoint of strength would I be better off turning it down to 3/8" fine thread or through-drilling a small hole in it and attaching a knob via a roll pin? Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Mon Sep 4 18:54:54 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 17:54:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: <297E23C54BE0484892950BB052CAC756@WINDOWST93OFP9> ox1CdVUCkpSnAox1Dd937Q I have Maniflo headers from the UK that have had ceramic coated that is supposed to contain the heat ? From: Al Fuller Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 10:05 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps Roger: Have you considered coating the exhaust manifolds, so as to conduct the heat down the exhaust system, as opposed to allowing the manifolds to be their usual heat radiating selves? I?m still thinking a winter project will be getting mine coated [Jet-Hot, etc.]. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 10:14 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer rattles squeaks and groans too ! I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that ambient. So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near the rear carb intake. In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec. rad fan off Water is 190F Oil is 165- 170F Engine compartment is around 130F At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic Water is 200F Oil is 180 F Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet spot. So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting and how ? Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. Ideas comments welcome. On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ? rg Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Mon Sep 4 20:38:56 2017 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 14:38:56 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required References: mppkdq8y6pSnAmppldbIca, <6C182DD3CC20404CB563AF62CBCA0AF4@AllInOne> Nell's black tri-carb - HBT7L/17600 - January 1962 - has the later type solenoid (with the metal holding strap) also. The car is very original. Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags at shaw.ca] Sent: Tuesday, 5 September 2017 6:32 a.m. To: Michael Salter; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required Hmmm! My 1962 tri-carb # 18617 ? May 1962 - has the later type solenoid. I am virtually certain that it is the original ? I am the 2nd owner, bought the car with some 45,000 miles on it approx 24 years ago. The entire car is very, very, original. It could be that the later solenoid start point was at the BJ7 introduction, which was before this car was built. Which would mean that all top shift tri?carbs (both BT and BN7?s) would have the late type solenoid. Interesting stuff! Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 9:14 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required Thanks to all who responded to this question. It seems likely that the early cast body solenoids were fitted until the end of "roadster" production. If anyone has a pre '63 car that has an original pressed steel solenoid I would appreciate hearing from you. Michael S _____ From: Harold Manifold Sent: Saturday, September 2, 2017 12:21:42 PM To: 'Michael Salter' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required Michael, I am sending a picture of the starter solenoid from my AH 3000. I have replaced the solenoid in the picture but I believe it to be the original solenoid. It has the cast aluminum body but I could not see any part numbers. This is the car it was removed from: AH 3000 Mk 1 BT7 Chassis number 13154 Date of build Oct 28 - Nov 2 1960 I have a question. Are bellows type thermostats still available and can you suggest a source? Regards, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 12:31 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required ?Oh wise ones!!! I'm working on the revisions to the Concours Guidelines for 2018 and have a ?question that some of you may be able to help with. Prior to about 1958 the starter solenoid used in Healeys was Lucas part number 76411. This type of solenoid can easily be identified by having a cast aluminum body as on the left on the pic attached. Later cars and all subsequent Lucas replacements had a pressed steel body as illustrated on the right. The change point is not noted in any of the parts books that I have. If anyone has an original car with its original solenoid from around that date I would appreciate hearing from you with the serial number of your car and the solenoid type fitted. Michael Salter Concours Guidelines Editor. _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 4 22:38:50 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 21:38:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question References: <51ff01d324c2$54f7d5e0$fee781a0$@roadrunner.com> <002d01d324ca$4f09ea80$ed1dbf80$@rr.com> <005c01d324eb$775e4e60$661aeb20$@rr.com> <20170903204030.4612180.89464.9263@gmail.com> <008c01d32579$fd12bad0$f7383070$@rr.com> <186fb978-eba5-022c-65eb-085774f163b4@comcast.net> <00e901d325cb$624e3e00$26eaba00$@rr.com> I used the ol' 2x4 braced against the pedal to get the nominal setting (but I thought it required too much pedal and the OD didn't always deactivate when I assumed it would).? I think it's a bit of personal preference; I adjusted mine so just a quarter of a clutch pedal and a quick blip--less than a downshift--would disengage the OD.? Done just right, it's smoother than my best downshift, so I gotta believe it's OK on the internals.? This OD has almost 200K miles and the only problems (2) I've had with it were electrical. Anyway, glad it's in the manual; I was beginning to wonder ... On 9/4/2017 3:15 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > The manual says: > > "Connect a low-consumption test lamp (a 12 volt 2.2 watt fascia panel > light bulb is suitable) [I made a test lamp out of a single filament > turn signal bulb and a spare bulb holder I had lying around] between > the top terminal "A" (Fig. G.13)[of the throttle switch] and a > convenient earthing point. > > ? The bulb should light when the overdrive and the ignition are both > switched on, and the gear lever is set in the third or top gear position. > > ? When the overdrive is switched off, the bulb should remain alight > with the throttle still closed. > > ? Progressively open the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal > until the light goes out. Check the position of the throttle opening > when this occurs:? it should be one-fifth open.? This position of the > throttle has been reached when a 3/16 in. (5 mm.) diameter rod can be > just passed between the throttle stop screw and the stop lever on the > HD type of carburetter, or when a feeler gauge of 0.048 in. (1.22 mm.) > thickness can be inserted between the throttle stop screw and the stop > on the H4 type of carburetter used on earlier engines." > > The manual procedure would account for any system slack, but it also > requires two people:? one to operate the pedal and another to monitor > the light and check the position of the throttle plates when it goes > out. It would also require access to the throttle plates, and an > estimate of what is "one fifth open".? If that is related to the 3/16" > rod, then why not just use the rod and adjust until the light goes out? > > I have an "overdrive warning" light just above the dash switch that I > installed back in the '80s when I didn't mind drilling a new hole in > the dash.? When the switch is adjusted properly, the light stays on > when the dash switch is turned off and then goes off with what seems > to me a reasonable movement of the pedal.? I would say it isn't > necessary to account for slack in the system when using the 3/16" rod. > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Monday, September 04, 2017 1:14 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question > > I'm working from memory--will check the manual later--but the way I > interpreted the instructions were to adjust the switch with the > throttles a spec distance--prob. the 3/16" as Steve mentions--opened.? > For some reason, I thought this should be achieved by pressing on the > accelerator pedal to achieve this setting which, of course, would pull > up any slack in the Rube Goldberg throttle mechanism.? So, I set it > this way but felt that it required too much pedal when disengaging the > OD.? I just fiddled with the adjustment to where the OD disengaged > with what I felt was appropriate pedal.? Maybe the 3/16" should be > measured without allowing for linkage slack, maybe not; does anyone > know for sure? > > Bob > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Tue Sep 5 07:34:16 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 13:34:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble Gentlemen, The BJ7 has been up on jack stands for about 2 months while I did transmission work. Upon completion, the engine was a little had to start, but finally started. On the road test, the engine would not rev above 2,200 to 2,400 RPM - light bucking and missing. I have checked ignition - dwell & timing and fuel seems OK. Almost feels like the mechanical advance is stuck. But I'm stalled. Anyone had a similar problem ??? Ed O'Neal -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Tue Sep 5 08:24:32 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 10:24:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle References: <20170904184149.D24201A0362@mail.cal.net> Ken, I once had pix before the H drive crash but all I can do now is tell you about them. Don't know how married you are to concourse but I put about 10" lengths of the boot seal for MGB at each corner of opening. No rattle and looks fine. Keith -----Original Message----- From: goldengt To: healeys Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 8:39 pm Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle The painter centered the bonnet in the hole so now the hinges rattle. Stuffing cardboard on each side of the hinge stops the rattle. Any better appearing suggestions? Root cause is bent bonnet remains bent for the time being so that the rubber buffers are not touching the bonnet. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Tue Sep 5 09:09:17 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2017 07:09:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Thermostat_runs_with_blanking_sleeve?= You can run the Moss blanking sleeve with a thermostat. I had cut away the blanking sleeve except for the part necessary to cover the bypass port. I ran it with a 180 degree fail-open thermostat and 2 Moss rubber gaskets, one of which had the hole slightly enlarged to accommodate the increased thickness of the thermo plus blanking sleeve. Separately I had bought the BCS 160 degree robertshaw with soldered ring blanking sleeve. I modified this by replacing the t-stat with a 180 degree robertshaw with their ring soldered on. I'm now using that because the robertshaw has a much larger opening than the Moss fail-open. >>< Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 14:19:19 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: "rchaskell at earthlink.net" , Per Schoerner , Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats The blanking sleeve has a small lip that sits in the same recess as the thermostat. ?Not sure both the blanking sleeve lip and a thermostat together will fit and seal the cover correctly.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 7:07 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: Moss sells a thermostat bypass blanking sleeve. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=69821 I wonder if you could combine this with a "standard" thermostat to approach the original with the sleeve? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php <<> -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 / 4whl discs Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Tue Sep 5 11:53:10 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 17:53:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble OK. Full tank of non-ethanol gas. Replaced the fuel filter & fuel pump, cleaned the carb inlet screens and checked the float valves. All new copper fuel lines about two years ago - SAME PROBLEM. WHAT NOW ??? Gentlemen, The BJ7 has been up on jack stands for about 2 months while I did transmission work. Upon completion, the engine was a little had to start, but finally started. On the road test, the engine would not rev above 2,200 to 2,400 RPM - light bucking and missing. I have checked ignition - dwell & timing and fuel seems OK. Almost feels like the mechanical advance is stuck. But I'm stalled. Anyone had a similar problem ??? Ed O'Neal -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Sep 5 14:31:55 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 20:31:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle wheel hubs References: <1240916117.3384742.1504643515437.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Best way or what tool to remove hubs from rear axle?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cbaustin at verizon.net Tue Sep 5 15:40:28 2017 From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum) Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 17:40:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Program/Handbook - '92 Healey International ??? Anyone need to fill a gap in a collection? ??? Make a fair offer (inc postage). Program is VG to EX; booklet has center page(s) off the staples (could be reattached, I'm sure). ??? Thanks, regards, ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? CB --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Healey_Programs1 001.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 627437 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Sep 5 16:01:56 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 22:01:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Removal References: <1481969301.3457611.1504648916692.ref@mail.yahoo.com> OK, figured out how to get bearing hub off rear axle with a bearing flange and slide hammer.? Is the hub nut 2 3/16ths?? Is there a socket available without the chamfer around the mouth of the socket so I can get it on that thin nut?? Do you guys just buy a 2 3/16ths socket and grind the mouth flat?? The nuts on my axle are all buggered up from someone in the past using a chisel to get them off and put them back on.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Sep 5 17:14:52 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 16:14:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B0BAEC@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> One thing that can cause these symptoms is when one of the carb jet needles falls into its jet; you're running on 3 cyls. On 9/5/2017 6:34 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: > > Gentlemen, > > The BJ7 has been up on jack stands for about 2 months while I did > transmission work. Upon completion, the engine was a little had to > start, but finally started.? On the road test, the engine would not > rev above 2,200 to 2,400 RPM ? light bucking and missing.? I have > checked ignition ? dwell & timing and fuel seems OK.? Almost feels > like the mechanical advance is stuck.? But I?m stalled.? Anyone had a > similar problem ??? > > Ed O?Neal > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Sep 5 17:33:00 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 16:33:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question References: <51ff01d324c2$54f7d5e0$fee781a0$@roadrunner.com> <02a401d325a0$5efbc630$1cf35290$@bighealey.org> Yes, I removed the ground wire. It could be possible that the relay was grounding out elsewhere; I'll need to check that possibility. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 10:08 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question Bruce - random thought: You indicate below [#2] that you removed the ground from the relay. I assume you mean to say you removed the ground __ wire__ from the relay. Is it possible the relay was still grounded directly to the body? Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, September 3, 2017 10:39 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question A couple of other factors: 1. The dash switch is not defective; it tests fine. 2. Removing the ground from the OD relay (terminal W2) had no effect; i.e., the solenoid still engaged when the lever was moved to the 3rd/4th position, indicating to me that the relay was not engaged and thus holding the relay points closed. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2017 9:50 PM Subject: Overdrive wiring question After installing the new wiring harness, I encountered a puzzling situation. With the engine off and the ignition on, the OD solenoid would engage when the shift lever engaged the transmission switch irrespective of the position of the dash switch. That is, the solenoid would engage whether the dash switch was on or off. Further, if I depressed the accelerator, thus opening the throttle position switch, the solenoid would NOT engage under the same conditions. Hence, it seems that either the OD relay was engaged by the W1 terminal being energized or somehow the C2 terminal was energized. Unfortunately I caused a short in the throttle switch damaging my harness before I could trace this. Any thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Sep 5 19:29:17 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 01:29:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket References: <912466892.3589130.1504661357469.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Where can I get a 2 3/16th hub nut socket for the 8 sided axle nut? ?I also understand this nut should be torqued down to 180+ ftlb of torque.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmcharris at hotmail.com Tue Sep 5 20:27:06 2017 From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 02:27:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: Here is what it looks like....air flow over the float bowls is enough to prevent problems. George McHarris ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, September 5, 2017 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 273 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle (goldengt) 2. Re: BJ8 Temps (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) 3. Re: BJ8 Temps (Bob Spidell) 4. Free BJ8 Brake Rotors - SF Bay Area (Bob Spidell) 5. Chassis ID Plate Location (Michael MacLean) 6. Re: Bellows Thermostats (Harold Manifold) 7. Re: Overdrive wiring question (BJ8Healeys) 8. Re: BJ8 Temps (Keith Pennell) 9. Re: BJ8 Temps (Keith Pennell) 10. Shift lever issue (no Healey content) (Michael Oritt) 11. Re: BJ8 Temps (Roger Grace) 12. Re: Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required (Mark Donaldson) 13. Re: Overdrive wiring question (Bob Spidell) 14. engine trouble (Ed O'Neal) 15. Re: 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle (Keith Pennell) 16. Thermostat runs with blanking sleeve (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) 17. engine trouble (Ed O'Neal) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2017 11:41:43 -0700 From: goldengt To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle The painter centered the bonnet in the hole so now the hinges rattle. Stuffing cardboard on each side of the hinge stops the rattle. Any better appearing suggestions? Root cause is bent bonnet remains bent for the time being so that the rubber buffers are not touching the bonnet.?Ken Freese?65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 14:49:45 -0400 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com To: roggrace at telus.net, healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps I have a BN1, so things are a bit different, but temps under the bonnet get way up there and my front float bowl is directly over my exhaust without a heat shield. In the past, my car would vapor lock like crazy, the fuel in the front float bowl boiling away. I was a member of the SoCal Healey club then and a few of us were having the same problem. Nothing seemed to work. And then George McHarris came up with the solution. And I followed suit and haven't had the problem since. What we did was mount a marine bilge fan along side the upper end of our radiators. Being it's a DC motor, just wire it so the air flows in the correct direction and add some 4" flex to both ends. One end goes to right behind your grill to suck in the cooler air and the other end off the fan goes to right in front of your carbs. Mine is aimed directly at the front float bowl. Did this almost ten years ago now and have had zero problems since with vapor lock. I can sit in traffic and get to 212 and the car still idles just fine. I put the fan in place with zip ties, so didn't have to drill any holes and everything can come out in a matter of minutes if necessary. Got the fan on eBay under thirty dollars and since it was white, I painted it with flat black paint. Works like a charm and don't see any reason why this couldn't be done in a BJ8 engine bay with some minor tweaking of positions of the fan. First temporary installation, wired in place. Blows air right on front float bowl. Switch on shelf to turn on and off when needed. In a message dated 9/4/2017 10:09:46 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, roggrace at telus.net writes: My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer rattles squeaks and groans too ! I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that ambient. So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near the rear carb intake. In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec. rad fan off Water is 190F Oil is 165- 170F Engine compartment is around 130F At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic Water is 200F Oil is 180 F Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet spot. So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting and how ? Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. Ideas comments welcome. On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ? rg _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2577.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 48666 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2582.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 38248 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 12:37:47 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps FWIW, I just had the manifolds on my BJ8 Jet-Hot coated and haven't noticed much, if any, difference in running temps or other effects (I also wrapped my downpipes).? YMMV. Bob On 9/4/2017 10:05 AM, Al Fuller wrote: > > Roger: > > Have you considered coating the exhaust manifolds, so as to conduct > the heat down the exhaust system, as opposed to allowing the manifolds > to be their usual heat radiating selves? > > I?m still thinking a winter project will be getting mine coated > [Jet-Hot, etc.]. > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Roger Grace > *Sent:* Monday, September 4, 2017 10:14 AM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] BJ8 Temps > > My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower > > ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer > > rattles squeaks and groans too ! > > I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. > > Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is > > already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to > > increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming > too rich for that > > ambient. > > So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near > > the rear carb intake. > > In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? > elec. > > rad fan off > > Water is 190F > > Oil is 165- 170F > > Engine compartment is around 130F > > At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic > > Water is 200F > > Oil is 180 F > > Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid > > stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. > > Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet > > spot. > > So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment > venting > > and how ? > > Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. > > Ideas comments welcome. > > On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler > air to > > the carb intake area when cruising? ? Results ? > > rg > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 13:19:44 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Free BJ8 Brake Rotors - SF Bay Area I have a pair of used but pristine rotors for a (later) BJ8 free for the taking.? They have surface rust inside the hat, which I neglected to paint, but the braking surfaces are mirror-smooth and shouldn't need turning.? The only reason I'm not reusing them is I bought new ones many years ago and since I'm putting in new bearings and pads--which I also bought years ago--I figured I'd use the new rotors while I'm at it. Pick up only.? I'm in San Jose near 280 and Saratoga. Bob ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 20:44:46 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Chassis ID Plate Location Can someone give me an approximate measurement to locate the two holes for the chassis ID Plate on my BN2? ?I guess they were filled in during the body work. ?I have to have a chassis plate on it to show the DMV.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 14:36:44 -0700 From: "Harold Manifold" To: "'Bob Spidell'" , Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats Thank-you all for the good suggestions. I am planning to try this Robertshaw thermostat and will keep you apprised of developments. FlowKooler 330-180 - FlowKooler Robertshaw Series High Performance Thermostats _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 10:22 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats Slightly OT, but I think we owe Moss--in particular, Michael Grant, who I believe writes most of them--some gratitude for producing these tech tip docs. They have really helped me out several times; I just found one that explains an ingenious--one of those techniques that has you slapping your forehead because you didn't think of it--way to set the 'steady posts' in drum brakes correctly. If you make a phone order from Moss you might mention how helpful they are, so they keep them coming. Bob On 9/3/2017 11:19 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: Hey Harold - With the bellows type thermostat, your car will definitely heat up faster and run cooler, but the bellows type isn't ideal because when it fails, it fails in the closed position. Here's a good article explaining which type you want. Moss 434-155 is a better unit, but only available in 160 deg (I think). For six cylinder cars 160 deg thermostat is good enough for most climates south of the mason dixon line. http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/434-155.pdf Best, Alan On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 12:16 AM, Harold Manifold wrote: Hello, I am in the process of putting my AH 3000 engine back together and went looking for a recommendation for the engine thermostat. I was expecting to find a recommendation for the opening temperature but instead found information that recommends a bellows type thermostat should be used and the bellows is important or some of the coolant can bypass the radiator when the thermostat opens. If a bellows type thermostat is recommended is the correct type either the Smiths 85025 series or the AC Delco TF series? Is there a modern replacement bellows type thermostat that fails in the open position? Your comments and insight is welcomed. Harold 1960 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 18:15:54 -0400 From: "BJ8Healeys" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question The manual says: "Connect a low-consumption test lamp (a 12 volt 2.2 watt fascia panel light bulb is suitable) [I made a test lamp out of a single filament turn signal bulb and a spare bulb holder I had lying around] between the top terminal "A" (Fig. G.13)[of the throttle switch] and a convenient earthing point. The bulb should light when the overdrive and the ignition are both switched on, and the gear lever is set in the third or top gear position. When the overdrive is switched off, the bulb should remain alight with the throttle still closed. Progressively open the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal until the light goes out. Check the position of the throttle opening when this occurs: it should be one-fifth open. This position of the throttle has been reached when a 3/16 in. (5 mm.) diameter rod can be just passed between the throttle stop screw and the stop lever on the HD type of carburetter, or when a feeler gauge of 0.048 in. (1.22 mm.) thickness can be inserted between the throttle stop screw and the stop on the H4 type of carburetter used on earlier engines." The manual procedure would account for any system slack, but it also requires two people: one to operate the pedal and another to monitor the light and check the position of the throttle plates when it goes out. It would also require access to the throttle plates, and an estimate of what is "one fifth open". If that is related to the 3/16" rod, then why not just use the rod and adjust until the light goes out? I have an "overdrive warning" light just above the dash switch that I installed back in the '80s when I didn't mind drilling a new hole in the dash. When the switch is adjusted properly, the light stays on when the dash switch is turned off and then goes off with what seems to me a reasonable movement of the pedal. I would say it isn't necessary to account for slack in the system when using the 3/16" rod. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 1:14 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question I'm working from memory--will check the manual later--but the way I interpreted the instructions were to adjust the switch with the throttles a spec distance--prob. the 3/16" as Steve mentions--opened. For some reason, I thought this should be achieved by pressing on the accelerator pedal to achieve this setting which, of course, would pull up any slack in the Rube Goldberg throttle mechanism. So, I set it this way but felt that it required too much pedal when disengaging the OD. I just fiddled with the adjustment to where the OD disengaged with what I felt was appropriate pedal. Maybe the 3/16" should be measured without allowing for linkage slack, maybe not; does anyone know for sure? Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 19:04:52 -0400 From: Keith Pennell To: roggrace at telus.net, healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps -----Original Message----- From: Roger Grace To: Healey List Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 2:39 pm Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer rattles squeaks and groans too ! I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that ambient. So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near the rear carb intake. In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec. rad fan off Water is 190F Oil is 165- 170F Engine compartment is around 130F At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic Water is 200F Oil is 180 F Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet spot. So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting and how ? Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. Ideas comments welcome. On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ? rg _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 19:07:18 -0400 From: Keith Pennell To: roggrace at telus.net, healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps Roger, I seem to have similar effects of T on running of my BJ8. Went out recently and car ran great for 10 miles then the rest of the trip not so much. I woud be in interested in what you come up with. Keith -----Original Message----- From: Roger Grace To: Healey List Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 2:39 pm Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer rattles squeaks and groans too ! I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that ambient. So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near the rear carb intake. In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec. rad fan off Water is 190F Oil is 165- 170F Engine compartment is around 130F At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic Water is 200F Oil is 180 F Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet spot. So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting and how ? Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. Ideas comments welcome. On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ? rg _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 20:52:08 -0400 From: Michael Oritt To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Shift lever issue (no Healey content) Message-ID: During today's last session at the LRPHF the gear gear shift lever broke at the point where the threading for the knob stops. The threads on the lever accepted an MG shift knob which I believe to be 5/16"-24 UNF. The lever is about 1/2" in diameter and it is still long enough to use with a new knob. >From the standpoint of strength would I be better off turning it down to 3/8" fine thread or through-drilling a small hole in it and attaching a knob via a roll pin? Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 17:54:54 -0700 From: "Roger Grace" To: "Al Fuller" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps I have Maniflo headers from the UK that have had ceramic coated that is supposed to contain the heat ? From: Al Fuller Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 10:05 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps Roger: Have you considered coating the exhaust manifolds, so as to conduct the heat down the exhaust system, as opposed to allowing the manifolds to be their usual heat radiating selves? I?m still thinking a winter project will be getting mine coated [Jet-Hot, etc.]. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 10:14 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer rattles squeaks and groans too ! I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that ambient. So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near the rear carb intake. In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec. rad fan off Water is 190F Oil is 165- 170F Engine compartment is around 130F At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic Water is 200F Oil is 180 F Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet spot. So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting and how ? Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. Ideas comments welcome. On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ? rg Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 14:38:56 +1200 From: "Mark Donaldson" To: "'Earl Kagna'" , "'Michael Salter'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required Nell's black tri-carb - HBT7L/17600 - January 1962 - has the later type solenoid (with the metal holding strap) also. The car is very original. Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags at shaw.ca] Sent: Tuesday, 5 September 2017 6:32 a.m. To: Michael Salter; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required Hmmm! My 1962 tri-carb # 18617 ? May 1962 - has the later type solenoid. I am virtually certain that it is the original ? I am the 2nd owner, bought the car with some 45,000 miles on it approx 24 years ago. The entire car is very, very, original. It could be that the later solenoid start point was at the BJ7 introduction, which was before this car was built. Which would mean that all top shift tri?carbs (both BT and BN7?s) would have the late type solenoid. Interesting stuff! Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2017 9:14 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required Thanks to all who responded to this question. It seems likely that the early cast body solenoids were fitted until the end of "roadster" production. If anyone has a pre '63 car that has an original pressed steel solenoid I would appreciate hearing from you. Michael S _____ From: Harold Manifold Sent: Saturday, September 2, 2017 12:21:42 PM To: 'Michael Salter' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required Michael, I am sending a picture of the starter solenoid from my AH 3000. I have replaced the solenoid in the picture but I believe it to be the original solenoid. It has the cast aluminum body but I could not see any part numbers. This is the car it was removed from: AH 3000 Mk 1 BT7 Chassis number 13154 Date of build Oct 28 - Nov 2 1960 I have a question. Are bellows type thermostats still available and can you suggest a source? Regards, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 12:31 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required ?Oh wise ones!!! I'm working on the revisions to the Concours Guidelines for 2018 and have a ?question that some of you may be able to help with. Prior to about 1958 the starter solenoid used in Healeys was Lucas part number 76411. This type of solenoid can easily be identified by having a cast aluminum body as on the left on the pic attached. Later cars and all subsequent Lucas replacements had a pressed steel body as illustrated on the right. The change point is not noted in any of the parts books that I have. If anyone has an original car with its original solenoid from around that date I would appreciate hearing from you with the serial number of your car and the solenoid type fitted. Michael Salter Concours Guidelines Editor. _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 21:38:50 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question I used the ol' 2x4 braced against the pedal to get the nominal setting (but I thought it required too much pedal and the OD didn't always deactivate when I assumed it would).? I think it's a bit of personal preference; I adjusted mine so just a quarter of a clutch pedal and a quick blip--less than a downshift--would disengage the OD.? Done just right, it's smoother than my best downshift, so I gotta believe it's OK on the internals.? This OD has almost 200K miles and the only problems (2) I've had with it were electrical. Anyway, glad it's in the manual; I was beginning to wonder ... On 9/4/2017 3:15 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > The manual says: > > "Connect a low-consumption test lamp (a 12 volt 2.2 watt fascia panel > light bulb is suitable) [I made a test lamp out of a single filament > turn signal bulb and a spare bulb holder I had lying around] between > the top terminal "A" (Fig. G.13)[of the throttle switch] and a > convenient earthing point. > > ? The bulb should light when the overdrive and the ignition are both > switched on, and the gear lever is set in the third or top gear position. > > ? When the overdrive is switched off, the bulb should remain alight > with the throttle still closed. > > ? Progressively open the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal > until the light goes out. Check the position of the throttle opening > when this occurs:? it should be one-fifth open.? This position of the > throttle has been reached when a 3/16 in. (5 mm.) diameter rod can be > just passed between the throttle stop screw and the stop lever on the > HD type of carburetter, or when a feeler gauge of 0.048 in. (1.22 mm.) > thickness can be inserted between the throttle stop screw and the stop > on the H4 type of carburetter used on earlier engines." > > The manual procedure would account for any system slack, but it also > requires two people:? one to operate the pedal and another to monitor > the light and check the position of the throttle plates when it goes > out. It would also require access to the throttle plates, and an > estimate of what is "one fifth open".? If that is related to the 3/16" > rod, then why not just use the rod and adjust until the light goes out? > > I have an "overdrive warning" light just above the dash switch that I > installed back in the '80s when I didn't mind drilling a new hole in > the dash.? When the switch is adjusted properly, the light stays on > when the dash switch is turned off and then goes off with what seems > to me a reasonable movement of the pedal.? I would say it isn't > necessary to account for slack in the system when using the 3/16" rod. > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Monday, September 04, 2017 1:14 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question > > I'm working from memory--will check the manual later--but the way I > interpreted the instructions were to adjust the switch with the > throttles a spec distance--prob. the 3/16" as Steve mentions--opened.? > For some reason, I thought this should be achieved by pressing on the > accelerator pedal to achieve this setting which, of course, would pull > up any slack in the Rube Goldberg throttle mechanism.? So, I set it > this way but felt that it required too much pedal when disengaging the > OD.? I just fiddled with the adjustment to where the OD disengaged > with what I felt was appropriate pedal.? Maybe the 3/16" should be > measured without allowing for linkage slack, maybe not; does anyone > know for sure? > > Bob > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 13:34:16 +0000 From: Ed O'Neal To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Cc: "Robert P. Manhart" , Al Jensen Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble Message-ID: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B0BAEC at mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> Gentlemen, The BJ7 has been up on jack stands for about 2 months while I did transmission work. Upon completion, the engine was a little had to start, but finally started. On the road test, the engine would not rev above 2,200 to 2,400 RPM - light bucking and missing. I have checked ignition - dwell & timing and fuel seems OK. Almost feels like the mechanical advance is stuck. But I'm stalled. Anyone had a similar problem ??? Ed O'Neal -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 10:24:32 -0400 From: Keith Pennell To: goldengt at cal.net, healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle Ken, I once had pix before the H drive crash but all I can do now is tell you about them. Don't know how married you are to concourse but I put about 10" lengths of the boot seal for MGB at each corner of opening. No rattle and looks fine. Keith -----Original Message----- From: goldengt To: healeys Sent: Mon, Sep 4, 2017 8:39 pm Subject: [Healeys] 6 cyl bonnet hige rattle The painter centered the bonnet in the hole so now the hinges rattle. Stuffing cardboard on each side of the hinge stops the rattle. Any better appearing suggestions? Root cause is bent bonnet remains bent for the time being so that the rubber buffers are not touching the bonnet. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2017 07:09:17 -0800 From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat runs with blanking sleeve You can run the Moss blanking sleeve with a thermostat. I had cut away the blanking sleeve except for the part necessary to cover the bypass port. I ran it with a 180 degree fail-open thermostat and 2 Moss rubber gaskets, one of which had the hole slightly enlarged to accommodate the increased thickness of the thermo plus blanking sleeve. Separately I had bought the BCS 160 degree robertshaw with soldered ring blanking sleeve. I modified this by replacing the t-stat with a 180 degree robertshaw with their ring soldered on. I'm now using that because the robertshaw has a much larger opening than the Moss fail-open. >>< Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2017 14:19:19 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: "rchaskell at earthlink.net" , Per Schoerner , Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bellows Thermostats The blanking sleeve has a small lip that sits in the same recess as the thermostat. ?Not sure both the blanking sleeve lip and a thermostat together will fit and seal the cover correctly.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 7:07 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: Moss sells a thermostat bypass blanking sleeve. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=69821 I wonder if you could combine this with a "standard" thermostat to approach the original with the sleeve? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php <<> -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 / 4whl discs Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 17:53:10 +0000 From: Ed O'Neal To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Cc: "Robert P. Manhart" , Al Jensen Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble Message-ID: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B0BB3D at mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> OK. Full tank of non-ethanol gas. Replaced the fuel filter & fuel pump, cleaned the carb inlet screens and checked the float valves. All new copper fuel lines about two years ago - SAME PROBLEM. WHAT NOW ??? Gentlemen, The BJ7 has been up on jack stands for about 2 months while I did transmission work. Upon completion, the engine was a little had to start, but finally started. On the road test, the engine would not rev above 2,200 to 2,400 RPM - light bucking and missing. I have checked ignition - dwell & timing and fuel seems OK. Almost feels like the mechanical advance is stuck. But I'm stalled. Anyone had a similar problem ??? Ed O'Neal -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 273 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Fan3.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 162315 bytes Desc: Fan3.jpg URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Sep 5 21:02:55 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 20:02:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B0BB3D@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> Just a SWAG: bad condenser could cause those symptoms.? Also, is fuel pump new?? What type (points, electronic)?? Maybe it wimps out under load? On 9/5/2017 10:53 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: > > OK. Full tank of non-ethanol gas.? Replaced the fuel filter & fuel > pump, cleaned the carb inlet screens and checked the float valves.? > All new copper fuel lines about two years ago ? SAME PROBLEM. > > WHAT NOW ??? > > Gentlemen, > > The BJ7 has been up on jack stands for about 2 months while I did > transmission work. Upon completion, the engine was a little had to > start, but finally started.? On the road test, the engine would not > rev above 2,200 to 2,400 RPM ? light bucking and missing.? I have > checked ignition ? dwell & timing and fuel seems OK.? Almost feels > like the mechanical advance is stuck.? But I?m stalled.? Anyone had a > similar problem ??? > > Ed O?Neal > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Tue Sep 5 23:03:55 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 07:03:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B0BB3D@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> Ed It's something with the ignition, check distributor cap, rotor,etc Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 5 sep. 2017 kl. 19:53 skrev Ed O'Neal : > > OK. Full tank of non-ethanol gas. Replaced the fuel filter & fuel pump, cleaned the carb inlet screens and checked the float valves. All new copper fuel lines about two years ago ? SAME PROBLEM. > > WHAT NOW ??? > > Gentlemen, > > The BJ7 has been up on jack stands for about 2 months while I did transmission work. Upon completion, the engine was a little had to start, but finally started. On the road test, the engine would not rev above 2,200 to 2,400 RPM ? light bucking and missing. I have checked ignition ? dwell & timing and fuel seems OK. Almost feels like the mechanical advance is stuck. But I?m stalled. Anyone had a similar problem ??? > > Ed O?Neal > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 5 23:39:35 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2017 22:39:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle wheel hubs References: <1240916117.3384742.1504643515437.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1240916117.3384742.1504643515437@mail.yahoo.com> A properly sized wrench, but they are hard to find. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, September 5, 2017 1:32 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Rear axle wheel hubs Best way or what tool to remove hubs from rear axle? Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Wed Sep 6 00:52:10 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 08:52:10 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Removal References: <1481969301.3457611.1504648916692.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1481969301.3457611.1504648916692@mail.yahoo.com> Mike Note that the nut is an octagon, would fit better on an MG. And one of them is threaded the other way around. I made my own socket from a very big hexagon socket (46mm IIRC) that I grinded to an octagon. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 6 sep. 2017 kl. 00:01 skrev Michael MacLean : > > OK, figured out how to get bearing hub off rear axle with a bearing flange and slide hammer. Is the hub nut 2 3/16ths? Is there a socket available without the chamfer around the mouth of the socket so I can get it on that thin nut? Do you guys just buy a 2 3/16ths socket and grind the mouth flat? The nuts on my axle are all buggered up from someone in the past using a chisel to get them off and put them back on. > Mike MacLean > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rdhughes at q.com Wed Sep 6 01:08:09 2017 From: rdhughes at q.com (Robert Hughes) Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2017 00:08:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B0BB3D@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> Yes, a friend had this exact problem years ago. We opened up the distributor and found that a screw from one of the ignition wires had fallen down to the bottom and was jamming the mechanical advance closed. Removed the screw and the engine ran fine. Robert 1968 BJ8 1960 AN5 ***************************************************** On 9/5/2017 10:53 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: > > OK. Full tank of non-ethanol gas. Replaced the fuel filter & fuel > pump, cleaned the carb inlet screens and checked the float valves. > All new copper fuel lines about two years ago -- SAME PROBLEM. > > WHAT NOW ??? > > Gentlemen, > > The BJ7 has been up on jack stands for about 2 months while I did > transmission work. Upon completion, the engine was a little had to > start, but finally started. On the road test, the engine would not > rev above 2,200 to 2,400 RPM -- light bucking and missing. I have > checked ignition -- dwell & timing and fuel seems OK. Almost feels > like the mechanical advance is stuck. But I'm stalled. Anyone had a > similar problem ??? > > Ed O'Neal > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Sep 6 01:33:59 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 15:33:59 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B0BAEC@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> Also check if coil is hot. If it is very hot it can fail and cause this type of system. On Wed, Sep 6, 2017 at 7:14 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > One thing that can cause these symptoms is when one of the carb jet > needles falls into its jet; you're running on 3 cyls. > > On 9/5/2017 6:34 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: > > Gentlemen, > > > > The BJ7 has been up on jack stands for about 2 months while I did > transmission work. Upon completion, the engine was a little had to start, > but finally started. On the road test, the engine would not rev above > 2,200 to 2,400 RPM ? light bucking and missing. I have checked ignition ? > dwell & timing and fuel seems OK. Almost feels like the mechanical advance > is stuck. But I?m stalled. Anyone had a similar problem ??? > > > > Ed O?Neal > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Sep 6 04:04:00 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 06:04:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Removal References: <1481969301.3457611.1504648916692.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1481969301.3457611.1504648916692@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, To remove the hub, use a 3 arm gear puller with a center piece piloted on the axle. I don't like the idea of applying impact loads from a slide hammer to bearings. I bought a 12 point, 3/4" drive, Williams socket and used my lathe to remove the chamfer. The steel was soft enough to cut; didn't need to grind. I also have the Churchill 8 sided factory tool. It has a pilot that fits in the axle which is nice. In my old age, I can't always generate enough torque to loosen the nut with the factory tool. Could make a longer rod. Remember, the nut on the right hand side has left hand threads. There is usually "RH" or "LH" stamped on one side of the nut near "MOWOG". Of course, that side is probably not facing out. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/05/2017 06:01 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > OK, figured out how to get bearing hub off rear axle with a bearing > flange and slide hammer. Is the hub nut 2 3/16ths? Is there a socket > available without the chamfer around the mouth of the socket so I can > get it on that thin nut? Do you guys just buy a 2 3/16ths socket and > grind the mouth flat? The nuts on my axle are all buggered up from > someone in the past using a chisel to get them off and put them back on. > Mike MacLean > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From dcorning at ford.com Wed Sep 6 06:22:13 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 12:22:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket References: <912466892.3589130.1504661357469.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <912466892.3589130.1504661357469@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, I had the same problem and searched all over before I found one that would work. I took the axle nut with me to several stores and all the 2-3/16th sockets (and other sizes) seemed too loose. I then went to a Northern Tool store and sized it to each large socket they had. The KLUTCH 55mm socket Item # 40856 fit the nut tight, better than anything else I ever tried. Northerntool.com 55mm Socket At only $14.99 it was a great deal compared to other sockets I had seen. I purchased the socket, used a ? to ? adapter and was able to torque it to spec. Note: It turned out to be a bit too snug in the socket so I very lightly hand filed the roughness on the flats of the nut and it worked perfectly. Best, Dan Corning From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 8:29 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket Where can I get a 2 3/16th hub nut socket for the 8 sided axle nut? I also understand this nut should be torqued down to 180+ ftlb of torque. Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Sep 6 07:31:19 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 09:31:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket References: <912466892.3589130.1504661357469.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <912466892.3589130.1504661357469@mail.yahoo.com> I have a hub nut socket for an 8 sided axle nut but the measurement stamped on it is 2 13/64 which is very close to 2 3/16. It is for sale. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 9:29 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket Where can I get a 2 3/16th hub nut socket for the 8 sided axle nut? I also understand this nut should be torqued down to 180+ ftlb of torque. Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Wed Sep 6 08:28:07 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 16:28:07 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Removal References: <1481969301.3457611.1504648916692.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1481969301.3457611.1504648916692@mail.yahoo.com> <661415AE-0877-4B6D-AA28-C0F5E44B15B7@schoerner.se> Hi I remembered wrong, I made it from a 55 mm hexagon socket. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 6 sep. 2017 kl. 08:52 skrev Per Schoerner : > > Mike > Note that the nut is an octagon, would fit better on an MG. And one of them is threaded the other way around. I made my own socket from a very big hexagon socket (46mm IIRC) that I grinded to an octagon. > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > >> 6 sep. 2017 kl. 00:01 skrev Michael MacLean : >> >> OK, figured out how to get bearing hub off rear axle with a bearing flange and slide hammer. Is the hub nut 2 3/16ths? Is there a socket available without the chamfer around the mouth of the socket so I can get it on that thin nut? Do you guys just buy a 2 3/16ths socket and grind the mouth flat? The nuts on my axle are all buggered up from someone in the past using a chisel to get them off and put them back on. >> Mike MacLean >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 6 09:17:49 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 08:17:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket References: <912466892.3589130.1504661357469.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <912466892.3589130.1504661357469@mail.yahoo.com> I bought this a few years back. I will check to see if I can find out where. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, September 5, 2017 6:29 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket Where can I get a 2 3/16th hub nut socket for the 8 sided axle nut? I also understand this nut should be torqued down to 180+ ftlb of torque. Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMAG0131.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2352819 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Sep 6 09:22:11 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 11:22:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket References: <912466892.3589130.1504661357469.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <912466892.3589130.1504661357469@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, I have a Craftsman 2-3/16" socket (3/4" drive) that I modified to fit the octagonal hub nut (photo attached). You are welcome to use it for the cost of postage to and from. I also have some written procedures that I put together for removing and replacing the rear hub bearing. As far as the torque is concerned, there is no published value for torque on the nut that I am aware of. I tighten as much as possible manually, then give the wrench a couple medium whacks with a hammer before bending over the locking washer. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 9:29 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket Where can I get a 2 3/16th hub nut socket for the 8 sided axle nut? I also understand this nut should be torqued down to 180+ ftlb of torque. Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Hub nut socket.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 149078 bytes Desc: not available URL: From goldengt at cal.net Wed Sep 6 09:31:07 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2017 08:31:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Removal I pull the axle out, reverse it and use a few lug nuts.Ken Freese?65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob Haskell Date: 9/6/17 3:04 AM (GMT-08:00) To: Michael MacLean , Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Removal Mike, To remove the hub, use a 3 arm gear puller with a center piece piloted on the axle.? I don't like the idea of applying impact loads from a slide hammer to bearings. I bought a 12 point, 3/4" drive, Williams socket and used my lathe to remove the chamfer.? The steel was soft enough to cut; didn't need to grind.? I also have the Churchill 8 sided factory tool.? It has a pilot that fits in the axle which is nice.? In my old age, I can't always generate enough torque to loosen the nut with the factory tool.? Could make a longer rod. Remember, the nut on the right hand side has left hand threads.? There is usually "RH" or "LH" stamped on one side of the nut near "MOWOG".? Of course, that side is probably not facing out. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/05/2017 06:01 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > OK, figured out how to get bearing hub off rear axle with a bearing > flange and slide hammer.? Is the hub nut 2 3/16ths?? Is there a socket > available without the chamfer around the mouth of the socket so I can > get it on that thin nut?? Do you guys just buy a 2 3/16ths socket and > grind the mouth flat?? The nuts on my axle are all buggered up from > someone in the past using a chisel to get them off and put them back on. > Mike MacLean > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Sep 6 12:28:38 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 14:28:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Removal References: <1481969301.3457611.1504648916692.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1481969301.3457611.1504648916692@mail.yahoo.com> <9bef73d6-9c35-6e25-cec2-92a0b0d4f885@earthlink.net> You can also remove the hub by reversing the axle shaft with the head against the end of the axle housing and using the 5 nuts to pull it out. It will only go so far before you run out of threads, so you have to remove the axle and put something between the head and the end of the rear axle housing to pull it off far enough to wiggle it free. I use a special tool I modified from a scrap helicopter part (photo attached). The tapered part goes inside the axle housing, with the head of the axle bearing on the U-shape. Any object that would function similar to this one would work. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2017 6:04 AM To: Michael MacLean; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Removal Mike, To remove the hub, use a 3 arm gear puller with a center piece piloted on the axle. I don't like the idea of applying impact loads from a slide hammer to bearings. I bought a 12 point, 3/4" drive, Williams socket and used my lathe to remove the chamfer. The steel was soft enough to cut; didn't need to grind. I also have the Churchill 8 sided factory tool. It has a pilot that fits in the axle which is nice. In my old age, I can't always generate enough torque to loosen the nut with the factory tool. Could make a longer rod. Remember, the nut on the right hand side has left hand threads. There is usually "RH" or "LH" stamped on one side of the nut near "MOWOG". Of course, that side is probably not facing out. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/05/2017 06:01 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > OK, figured out how to get bearing hub off rear axle with a bearing > flange and slide hammer. Is the hub nut 2 3/16ths? Is there a socket > available without the chamfer around the mouth of the socket so I can > get it on that thin nut? Do you guys just buy a 2 3/16ths socket and > grind the mouth flat? The nuts on my axle are all buggered up from > someone in the past using a chisel to get them off and put them back on. > Mike MacLean > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Extension tool.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 38072 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cjerryadams at yahoo.com Wed Sep 6 12:30:36 2017 From: cjerryadams at yahoo.com (cjerryadams at yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 13:30:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket References: <912466892.3589130.1504661357469.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <912466892.3589130.1504661357469@mail.yahoo.com> <000601d32714$6cf21530$46d63f90$@verizon.net> I couldn't find proper size and 8 sided socket and had one made at a local machine shop. I did this back in '73 - '74. It was somewhat costly but worked out great and I didn't have to use hammer and punch. Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 6, 2017, at 8:31 AM, John Sims wrote: > > I have a hub nut socket for an 8 sided axle nut but the measurement stamped on it is 2 13/64 which is very close to 2 3/16. It is for sale. > > John Sims > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 9:29 PM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket > > Where can I get a 2 3/16th hub nut socket for the 8 sided axle nut? I also understand this nut should be torqued down to 180+ ftlb of torque. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cjerryadams at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Wed Sep 6 15:39:08 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 21:39:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] engine trouble References: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B0BAEC@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> <0169b539-7204-5e78-25b9-09e9991df5e8@verizon.net> BINGO ! Charlie, You Nailed it ! The pistons in BOTH carbs were stuck solid. Tool me 10-15 minutes soaking with Goof Off to get each of them free. Cleaned 'em up and it runs like new. Let me know where to mail the $20 Prize. Thanks a Bunch ! Al, You were right too, but no prize for you. I'll buy you a beer at Lake Giuntersville. Ed Edward J. O'Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O'Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 -----Original Message----- From: Charley Braum [mailto:cbaustin at verizon.net] Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 5:45 PM To: Ed O'Neal Subject: engine trouble Ed, Make sure the slides are moving freely in the carbs. Sometimes sitting, coupled with etha-gas-crud, makes them stick a bit. Good luck, CB --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ggilliam at usol.com Wed Sep 6 16:14:32 2017 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2017 18:14:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket References: <912466892.3589130.1504661357469.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <912466892.3589130.1504661357469@mail.yahoo.com> <000601d32723$5072b630$f1582290$@sbcglobal.net> Someone on The List was manufacturing and selling these sockets...I bought one also, but I don't remember who from....For some reason $40 seems like what I paid.... Gordy On 2017-09-06 11:17, John Spaur wrote: > I bought this a few years back. I will check to see if I can find out where. > > John > > FROM: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] ON BEHALF OF Michael MacLean > SENT: Tuesday, September 5, 2017 6:29 PM > TO: Healey List > SUBJECT: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket > > Where can I get a 2 3/16th hub nut socket for the 8 sided axle nut? I also understand this nut should be torqued down to 180+ ftlb of torque. > > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android [1] > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ggilliam at usol.com Links: ------ [1] https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Sep 6 16:26:17 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 18:26:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket References: <912466892.3589130.1504661357469.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <912466892.3589130.1504661357469@mail.yahoo.com> <000601d32723$5072b630$f1582290$@sbcglobal.net> I sold mine to Mike already. BUT, I have another one just like yours that I will sell if anyone needs it. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2017 11:18 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket I bought this a few years back. I will check to see if I can find out where. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, September 5, 2017 6:29 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket Where can I get a 2 3/16th hub nut socket for the 8 sided axle nut? I also understand this nut should be torqued down to 180+ ftlb of torque. Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cjerryadams at yahoo.com Wed Sep 6 17:25:41 2017 From: cjerryadams at yahoo.com (cjerryadams at yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 18:25:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket References: <912466892.3589130.1504661357469.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <912466892.3589130.1504661357469@mail.yahoo.com> <00f001d32723$e9ec6a40$bdc53ec0$@rr.com> Forgot to mention that the socket I had made was similar to the factory tool in that it has a pilot shaft built into the tool. It was drilled so I could use a long bar to remove and tighten back up. Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 6, 2017, at 10:22 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > Mike, I have a Craftsman 2-3/16" socket (3/4" drive) that I modified to fit the octagonal hub nut (photo attached). You are welcome to use it for the cost of postage to and from. I also have some written procedures that I put together for removing and replacing the rear hub bearing. > As far as the torque is concerned, there is no published value for torque on the nut that I am aware of. I tighten as much as possible manually, then give the wrench a couple medium whacks with a hammer before bending over the locking washer. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 9:29 PM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket > > Where can I get a 2 3/16th hub nut socket for the 8 sided axle nut? I also understand this nut should be torqued down to 180+ ftlb of torque. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cjerryadams at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed Sep 6 17:31:36 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2017 09:31:36 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket References: <912466892.3589130.1504661357469.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <912466892.3589130.1504661357469@mail.yahoo.com> <00f001d32723$e9ec6a40$bdc53ec0$@rr.com> ...I did something similar Steve using a Land Rover hub socket as a basis (ignore the studs ? I converted the tool for another purpose altogether!) Cheers Peter From: BJ8Healeys Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 1:22 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket Mike, I have a Craftsman 2-3/16" socket (3/4" drive) that I modified to fit the octagonal hub nut (photo attached). You are welcome to use it for the cost of postage to and from. I also have some written procedures that I put together for removing and replacing the rear hub bearing. As far as the torque is concerned, there is no published value for torque on the nut that I am aware of. I tighten as much as possible manually, then give the wrench a couple medium whacks with a hammer before bending over the locking washer. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2017 9:29 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket Where can I get a 2 3/16th hub nut socket for the 8 sided axle nut? I also understand this nut should be torqued down to 180+ ftlb of torque. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Hub spanner 1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1134118 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Hub spanner 2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2329357 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fmags at cox.net Wed Sep 6 18:14:40 2017 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 19:14:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rearaxle hub removal Michael, I used a 12 pt socket and also a crows foot wrench to put on the new nuts... You really cant generate the required torque with either one; the crowsfoot slips and the 12 pt doesnt have enough engagement on the nut, although it does help to grind the chamfer off as others have said. But its not ideal. I ended up getting them off with a cold chisel and a hammer, and bought new nuts to reinstall. remember that they are sided; one goes one way and one the other. I dont recall if they are the same as the knockoffs. It would make sense that they are, but I was told which way they came off by a reputable Healey shop and they were wrong. So I can attest that if you bang on it hard enough you can get them off even the wrong direction! Fortunately I was able to clean up the threads on the axle. Was not happy with that shop! Better would be an 8 pt socket or I was going to have a machinist make me a special wrench with an 8 sided cutout. Some of the octagon knockoff tools are like this like from the TRiumph Stag, but its the wrong size. Frank Sent from my iPad From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed Sep 6 18:21:59 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2017 16:21:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?hub_octagon_nut_wrench?= AH spares sells an octagon wrench. I got a flat 1/4" thick one from Healey Surgeons. You hit that one with your lead hammer - works great. >>> Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket Where can I get a 2 3/16th hub nut socket for the 8 sided axle nut? I also understand this nut should be torqued down to 180+ ftlb of torque. Mike MacLean <<< -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 with 4 whl discs Maker of most complete Big Healey rear disc kit From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 7 00:31:19 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2017 23:31:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Removal References: <1481969301.3457611.1504648916692.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1481969301.3457611.1504648916692@mail.yahoo.com> <9bef73d6-9c35-6e25-cec2-92a0b0d4f885@earthlink.net> <00fd01d3273d$f799b390$e6cd1ab0$@rr.com> Steve, I wish I had thought about using a scraped helicopter part. I am rushing out to my hanger right now to look for one I can modify. :-) John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Wednesday, September 6, 2017 11:29 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Removal You can also remove the hub by reversing the axle shaft with the head against the end of the axle housing and using the 5 nuts to pull it out. It will only go so far before you run out of threads, so you have to remove the axle and put something between the head and the end of the rear axle housing to pull it off far enough to wiggle it free. I use a special tool I modified from a scrap helicopter part (photo attached). The tapered part goes inside the axle housing, with the head of the axle bearing on the U-shape. Any object that would function similar to this one would work. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2017 6:04 AM To: Michael MacLean; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Removal Mike, To remove the hub, use a 3 arm gear puller with a center piece piloted on the axle. I don't like the idea of applying impact loads from a slide hammer to bearings. I bought a 12 point, 3/4" drive, Williams socket and used my lathe to remove the chamfer. The steel was soft enough to cut; didn't need to grind. I also have the Churchill 8 sided factory tool. It has a pilot that fits in the axle which is nice. In my old age, I can't always generate enough torque to loosen the nut with the factory tool. Could make a longer rod. Remember, the nut on the right hand side has left hand threads. There is usually "RH" or "LH" stamped on one side of the nut near "MOWOG". Of course, that side is probably not facing out. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/05/2017 06:01 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > OK, figured out how to get bearing hub off rear axle with a bearing > flange and slide hammer. Is the hub nut 2 3/16ths? Is there a socket > available without the chamfer around the mouth of the socket so I can > get it on that thin nut? Do you guys just buy a 2 3/16ths socket and > grind the mouth flat? The nuts on my axle are all buggered up from > someone in the past using a chisel to get them off and put them back on. > Mike MacLean > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From s.hutchings at rogers.com Thu Sep 7 08:10:14 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2017 14:10:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] rearaxle hub removal References: <13E3131F-6353-454F-BD16-7AD1BFFD07D7@cox.net> To remember the thread orientation of the hub nuts- they are the opposite of the knock offs. Stephen, BJ8 From: Frank Magnusson To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 4:07 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] rearaxle hub removal Michael,? I used a 12 pt socket and also a crows foot wrench to put on the new nuts... You really cant generate the required torque with either one; the crowsfoot slips and the 12 pt doesnt have enough engagement on the nut, although it does help to grind the chamfer off as others have said.? But its not ideal.? I ended up getting them off with a cold chisel and a hammer, and bought new nuts to reinstall.? remember that they are sided; one goes one way and one the other.? I dont recall if they are the same as the knockoffs.? It would make sense that they are, but I was told which way they came off by a reputable Healey shop and they were wrong.? So I can attest that if you bang on it hard enough you can get them off even the wrong direction!? Fortunately I was able to clean up the threads on the axle.? Was not happy with that shop! Better would be an 8 pt socket or I was going to have a machinist make me a special wrench with an 8 sided cutout.? Some of the octagon knockoff tools are like this like from the TRiumph Stag, but its the wrong size. Frank Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dcorning at ford.com Thu Sep 7 08:53:23 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2017 14:53:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket I had the same problem and searched all over before I found one that would work. I took the axle nut with me to several stores and all the 2-3/16th sockets (and other sizes) seemed too loose. I then went to a Northern Tool store and sized it to each large socket they had. The KLUTCH 55mm socket Item # 40856 fit the nut tight, better than anything else I ever tried. Northerntool.com 55mm Socket At only $14.99 it was a great deal compared to other sockets I had seen. I purchased the socket, used a ? to ? adapter and was able to torque it to spec. Note: It turned out to be a bit too snug in the socket so I very lightly hand filed the roughness on the flats of the nut and it worked perfectly. Best, Dan Corning -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Thu Sep 7 09:32:26 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2017 08:32:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] rearaxle hub removal References: <13E3131F-6353-454F-BD16-7AD1BFFD07D7@cox.net> <1695832608.4646185.1504793414731@mail.yahoo.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmags at cox.net Thu Sep 7 09:33:42 2017 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnus son) Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2017 10:33:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rearaxle hub removal References: <13E3131F-6353-454F-BD16-7AD1BFFD07D7@cox.net> <6eAH1w03a0yvJe201eAJnP> I seem to recall that. Was told the opposite Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 7, 2017, at 9:10 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > > To remember the thread orientation of the hub nuts- they are the opposite of the knock offs. > > Stephen, BJ8 > > > From: Frank Magnusson > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 4:07 AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rearaxle hub removal > > Michael, I used a 12 pt socket and also a crows foot wrench to put on the new nuts... You really cant generate the required torque with either one; the crowsfoot slips and the 12 pt doesnt have enough engagement on the nut, although it does help to grind the chamfer off as others have said. But its not ideal. > > I ended up getting them off with a cold chisel and a hammer, and bought new nuts to reinstall. remember that they are sided; one goes one way and one the other. I dont recall if they are the same as the knockoffs. It would make sense that they are, but I was told which way they came off by a reputable Healey shop and they were wrong. So I can attest that if you bang on it hard enough you can get them off even the wrong direction! Fortunately I was able to clean up the threads on the axle. Was not happy with that shop! > > Better would be an 8 pt socket or I was going to have a machinist make me a special wrench with an 8 sided cutout. Some of the octagon knockoff tools are like this like from the TRiumph Stag, but its the wrong size. > > Frank > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Thu Sep 7 15:33:18 2017 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Lawrence Swift) Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2017 17:33:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Panhard Rod - BT7 References: The panhard rod bracket on the axle snapped off - but it doesn?t seem to have affected the car?s handling. What is the list?s advice regarding the usefulness of the rod. It requires removing the rear axle to repair - a chore I would like to avoid. Larry Swift From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Sep 7 20:02:50 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2017 19:02:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?hub_nut?= i would think someone with a plasma cutter could make up a bunch of the 8 sided cutouts and have them welded to a big 3/4 inch scrap socket. i would buy one. From ab7vf at yahoo.com Thu Sep 7 22:17:06 2017 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 04:17:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Panhard Rod - BT7 References: <401948808.5181715.1504844226724.ref@mail.yahoo.com> -------------------------------------------- On Thu, 9/7/17, Lawrence Swift wrote: The panhard rod bracket on the axle snapped off - but it doesn?t seem to have affected the car?s handling. What is the list?s advice regarding the usefulness of the rod. It requires removing the rear axle to repair - a chore I would like to avoid. Larry Swift I would think that with normal "putzing around" driving that the panhard rod would be very lightly loaded... With good front bushings in the leaf-springs and the short shackles on the rear of the leaf-springs there would not be a lot of lateral flex in the rear axle .. What I would question is WHY the bracket broke off ...Rust/Rot or improper panhard rod adjustment ..Broken main leaf ? Jim From josef-eckert at t-online.de Fri Sep 8 00:18:24 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 08:18:24 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] hub nut References: <20170908020250.8934.qmail@server278.com> This 8 sided socketsarre available from several sources like AH Spares, Ahead4healeys, SC Parts, Limora, etc. Why are you doing such a big effort? -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] hub nut Datum: 2017-09-08T06:33:11+0200 Von: "healeymanjim" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" i would think someone with a plasma cutter could make up a bunch of the 8 sided cutouts and have them welded to a big 3/4 inch scrap socket. i would buy one. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Sep 8 01:24:30 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 17:24:30 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] hub nut References: <20170908020250.8934.qmail@server278.com> I think if I had a plasma cutter, I'd make a spanner for a 5 stud rear end like my mate Col Dodds has made for the sprite/ BN1/ MGA https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/171716773582?_mwBanner=1 Best Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 8 Sep 2017, at 12:02 pm, healeymanjim wrote: > > i would think someone with a plasma cutter could make up a bunch of the 8 sided cutouts and have them welded to a big > 3/4 inch scrap socket. i would buy -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Fri Sep 8 06:34:20 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 14:34:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] hub nut References: <20170908020250.8934.qmail@server278.com> <5FA11A4A-C700-4DD7-AD50-0BA584F0FD38@gmail.com> But,,,,,, arn't those nuts octagons on the Sprite too, seem to remember that? Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 8 sep. 2017 kl. 09:24 skrev Chris Dimmock : > > I think if I had a plasma cutter, I'd make a spanner for a 5 stud rear end like my mate Col Dodds has made for the sprite/ BN1/ MGA > https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/171716773582?_mwBanner=1 > Best > Chris > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On 8 Sep 2017, at 12:02 pm, healeymanjim wrote: >> >> i would think someone with a plasma cutter could make up a bunch of the 8 sided cutouts and have them welded to a big >> 3/4 inch scrap socket. i would buy > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Fri Sep 8 06:49:44 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 08:49:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - BJ8 I am converting my 67 BJ8 Healey from a generator to an alternator. A 1980 MGB alternator will be used because it has the required 3/8 pulley (and because I currently have one that is new). My questions is, does the 1980 MGB alternator have an internal voltage regulator or does it use an external regulator? If internal, I will need to change the wiring. If external, am I correct that no wiring changes will need to be made, other than to insure the BJ8 has been converted to a negative ground. Thanks in advance! Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Sep 8 09:16:23 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 11:16:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - BJ8 References: <000001d328a0$f26378c0$d72a6a40$@nc.rr.com> Bob, The voltage regulator is internal. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/08/2017 08:49 AM, Bob Simmen wrote: > I am converting my 67 BJ8 Healey from a generator to an alternator. A > 1980 MGB alternator will be used because it has the required 3/8 pulley > (and because I currently have one that is new). > > My questions is, does the 1980 MGB alternator have an internal voltage > regulator or does it use an external regulator? If internal, I will > need to change the wiring. If external, am I correct that no wiring > changes will need to be made, other than to insure the BJ8 has been > converted to a negative ground. > > Thanks in advance! > > Bob > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Fri Sep 8 09:25:37 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 11:25:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - BJ8 References: <000001d328a0$f26378c0$d72a6a40$@nc.rr.com> Thanks for the quick response! Internal Thanks to: Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Simmen Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 8:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - BJ8 I am converting my 67 BJ8 Healey from a generator to an alternator. A 1980 MGB alternator will be used because it has the required 3/8 pulley (and because I currently have one that is new). My questions is, does the 1980 MGB alternator have an internal voltage regulator or does it use an external regulator? If internal, I will need to change the wiring. If external, am I correct that no wiring changes will need to be made, other than to insure the BJ8 has been converted to a negative ground. Thanks in advance! Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Fri Sep 8 09:58:13 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 11:58:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Panhard Rod - BT7 Without the Panhard rod the leaf springs will torque under acceleration and braking and over time you could break a leaf on one of the springs. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Lawrence Swift To: austinhealeyslist ; Ahealey help Sent: Thu, Sep 7, 2017 11:23 pm Subject: [Healeys] Panhard Rod - BT7 The panhard rod bracket on the axle snapped off - but it doesn?t seem to have affected the car?s handling.What is the list?s advice regarding the usefulness of the rod.It requires removing the rear axle to repair - a chore I would like to avoid.Larry Swift_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com From dos_gusanos at msn.com Fri Sep 8 11:10:51 2017 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 17:10:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Panhard Rod - BT7 References: , <7DD99F1F-8A12-4BC1-9F15-F4960806E950@gmail.com> Leaf springs do a pretty good job of locating the axle side to side, for example my TR3 doesn't have a panhard rod. My Elva Courier with a coil over set up drives itself (kind of wanders down the road) when that rod mount breaks and the driver immediately notices it and will stop to get it repaired. On your Healey you might notice your rear tires scrubbing the insides of your fender wells until you get it repaired. Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Lawrence Swift Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 3:33 PM To: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com; Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] Panhard Rod - BT7 The panhard rod bracket on the axle snapped off - but it doesn?t seem to have affected the car?s handling. What is the list?s advice regarding the usefulness of the rod. It requires removing the rear axle to repair - a chore I would like to avoid. Larry Swift _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Fri Sep 8 11:18:46 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 13:18:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - wiring question With the amount of knowledge in this group, I am hopeful someone will be able to help. I am converting from a generator to an alternator an a 67 BJ8, negative ground system. There should be available a schematic/picture to build a new wire sub-assembly that would simply replace the existing voltage regulator. This would be without cutting any of the existing car wire harness, plug into the existing spade terminals on the car wire harness, and allow for conversion back to the generator and voltage regulator if needed. Thank you in advance. Have a great day! Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Sep 8 13:10:18 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 12:10:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] MGB question hello all, I know some folks are on the road to Monterrey. Be safe and I hope the fires do not get in your way. I just bought a 67 MGB for my wife and need a complete PCV system for the car. Anyone have one for sale or can point me towards a good supplier of used parts? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Sep 8 16:58:53 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 18:58:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - wiring question References: <001901d328c6$87f80390$97e80ab0$@nc.rr.com> Bob, attached is my wiring diagram for the Delco 10SI alternator, for what it's worth. It did not require cutting any wires. The brown/green wire for the generator small terminal was not used, so I just tied it back to the harness with a cable tie. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Simmen Sent: Friday, September 08, 2017 1:19 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - wiring question With the amount of knowledge in this group, I am hopeful someone will be able to help. I am converting from a generator to an alternator an a 67 BJ8, negative ground system. There should be available a schematic/picture to build a new wire sub-assembly that would simply replace the existing voltage regulator. This would be without cutting any of the existing car wire harness, plug into the existing spade terminals on the car wire harness, and allow for conversion back to the generator and voltage regulator if needed. Thank you in advance. Have a great day! Bob Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Alternator wiring diagram.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 35611 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Fri Sep 8 18:40:22 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 17:40:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket References: pz1edtLeoE3r7pz1fdUpWf Hello, I have a Proto 5570 - 2 3/16" socket with a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter that works well. The socket is expensive new but I was lucky enough to find a used one. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Corning, Dan (D.C.) Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2017 7:53 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 3/16 Hub Nut Socket I had the same problem and searched all over before I found one that would work. I took the axle nut with me to several stores and all the 2-3/16th sockets (and other sizes) seemed too loose. I then went to a Northern Tool store and sized it to each large socket they had. The KLUTCH 55mm socket Item # 40856 fit the nut tight, better than anything else I ever tried. Northerntool.com 55mm Socket At only $14.99 it was a great deal compared to other sockets I had seen. I purchased the socket, used a ? to ? adapter and was able to torque it to spec. Note: It turned out to be a bit too snug in the socket so I very lightly hand filed the roughness on the flats of the nut and it worked perfectly. Best, Dan Corning -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From amalin at mac.com Fri Sep 8 19:35:45 2017 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2017 21:35:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - wiring question References: <001901d328c6$87f80390$97e80ab0$@nc.rr.com> I gutted a donor voltage regulator (I saved my original) and made the necessary wiring changes within it. No modification of the existing wiring harness was required. Al Malin Tricarb > On Sep 8, 2017, at 1:18 PM, Bob Simmen wrote: > > With the amount of knowledge in this group, I am hopeful someone will be able to help. > > I am converting from a generator to an alternator an a 67 BJ8, negative ground system. There should be available a schematic/picture to build a new wire sub-assembly that would simply replace the existing voltage regulator. This would be without cutting any of the existing car wire harness, plug into the existing spade terminals on the car wire harness, and allow for conversion back to the generator and voltage regulator if needed. > > Thank you in advance. > > Have a great day! > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Sep 8 20:29:11 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2017 20:29:11 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] MGB question References: Ira, the '67 only had the "gulp valve" Moss sells them for $45. Dave? or just vent the crankcase to atmosphere... On 9/8/2017 1:10 PM, i erbs wrote: > hello all, > I know some folks are on the road to Monterrey. Be safe and I hope the > fires do not get in your way. > ?I just bought a 67 MGB for my wife and need a complete PCV system for > the car. Anyone have one for sale or can point me towards a good > supplier of used parts? > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Sat Sep 9 12:43:15 2017 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2017 11:43:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Paint Code for "ivory" cove on Healey Ice Blue Does anybody have a modern paint code for the ?ivory? color to go on the coves of a Healey Ice Blue car? Seem to recall Ira posting that a while back. Also ? do you have a photo? Definitely want it to be more of a cr?me color than a refrigerator white. thx Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 9 15:25:38 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2017 14:25:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home Listers, I've mentioned my dad's restoration of an old fire engine a few times.? Yesterday, his work was returned to its rightful home: http://www.modbee.com/news/article172032787.html Bob From 050.rpl at gmail.com Sat Sep 9 16:49:32 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2017 18:49:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home References: Great job!! Hooray for you and your sense of giving. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 9, 2017, at 5:25 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Listers, > > I've mentioned my dad's restoration of an old fire engine a few times. Yesterday, his work was returned to its rightful home: > > http://www.modbee.com/news/article172032787.html > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com > From Larry at patersondesign.ca Sat Sep 9 16:53:28 2017 From: Larry at patersondesign.ca (Larry Paterson) Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2017 16:53:28 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home References: Beautiful, what a great project. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 3:26 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home Listers, I've mentioned my dad's restoration of an old fire engine a few times. Yesterday, his work was returned to its rightful home: http://www.modbee.com/news/article172032787.html Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Sep 9 16:55:52 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2017 18:55:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home References: Bob As a former assistant fire chief for a local volunteer fire department many years ago, all I can say is ?Wow what a job!?. The Seagrave is a monster of a truck, not as pretty as say an American LaFrance, but built to do the job. As an engineer and an old car guy the photo the restoration looks great. As an old man who has seen what a active and open fire house does for kids, the kids in that neighborhood will long remember their experience at the fire station museum and your Dad?s work and gift to the community. There is a phrase in Hawaiian, Kina?ole. It basically means: Doing the right thing, in the right way, at the right time, in the right place, for the right individual, for the right reason, with the right feeling, the first time. This effort fits the definition and should be applauded. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 6:24 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home Listers, I've mentioned my dad's restoration of an old fire engine a few times.? Yesterday, his work was returned to its rightful home: http://www.modbee.com/news/article172032787.html Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat Sep 9 18:40:00 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2017 17:40:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home References: Wonderful story. Your dad is owed a thank you for his dedication and commitment to preserve history and give back to the community. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2017 2:26 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home Listers, I've mentioned my dad's restoration of an old fire engine a few times. Yesterday, his work was returned to its rightful home: http://www.modbee.com/news/article172032787.html Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sat Sep 9 22:16:20 2017 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 00:16:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home How cool is that??!! Great job and congratulations. Steven Kingsbury In a message dated 9/9/2017 3:32:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, bspidell at comcast.net writes: Listers, I've mentioned my dad's restoration of an old fire engine a few times. Yesterday, his work was returned to its rightful home: http://www.modbee.com/news/article172032787.html Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun Sep 10 08:27:22 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 08:27:22 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found References: <28A9E7899C424E62814D3B787D1B53D1@Notebook> <706C8F56-2095-48CE-A515-8A30B172C4FA@accesscomm.ca> Hello All Thanks to all who provided me with their thoughts on the problems getting my engine to run properly. It has been really great to be able to get some thoughtful feedback on my trials and tribulations. I have found one item with the carbs that I thought I should pass along should anyone else have the issue. You may recall I could not get the jet to come up to the level of the cab bridge ? it seemed to hang up 1.6mm low. Yesterday I discovered the problem ? the lever that has the jet fork on one end and the mixture screw on the other is too thick. Being too thick it hits the mixture screw lobe piece, not allowing the forks to rise, which holds the jets 1.6mm-1.5mm low. These carbs are not original carbs and obviously casting for the fork/screw lever too thick. Going to do some filing on the piece this afternoon (or maybe take a dremel to it if laziness sets in). Still not confident this will help too much on the rich mixture or 30 degree timing sweet spot, but we shall see ? it certainly wont hurt! Bob England ?65 BJ8 From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun Sep 10 08:39:24 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 08:39:24 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Irma One thing I neglected to add in my post of a few minutes ago on SU carbs was my thoughts on Hurricane Irma. We just got back from Orlando (early yesterday morning), having to cut our vacation in Orlando a couple of days short. I had to admire the spirit of the locals who assisted in getting us booked out of the hotel, renting a car so we could fly out of Tampa (as nothing was available to get out of Orlando). Everyone seemed more concerned to help us leave the area safely (except our airline) than for their own safety. I can't express my appreciation in words. To all on the list that may be affected, stay safe. We might loose a few Healeys in the storm, but don't want to loose any of our friends from this list. Bob England -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Sep 10 09:18:59 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 11:18:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: <297E23C54BE0484892950BB052CAC756@WINDOWST93OFP9> <027f01d3259f$f7fee020$e7fca060$@bighealey.org> I had mine Jet-Hot coated in 1999, and also didn't see any significant effect on the engine temps. They surely looked a lot better than the old rusty manifolds and have held up really well over that time and about 80K miles. Some browning is beginning to show at the sharp edges, but I think I have got my money's worth out of Jet-Hot and if I ever have a reason to remove the manifolds I'll probably get them coated again. I've never wrapped the downpipes. The new radiator core and the sleeved thermostat together have solved the engine heat problem, so I see no need to wrap them. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 3:38 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps FWIW, I just had the manifolds on my BJ8 Jet-Hot coated and haven't noticed much, if any, difference in running temps or other effects (I also wrapped my downpipes). YMMV. Bob On 9/4/2017 10:05 AM, Al Fuller wrote: Roger: Have you considered coating the exhaust manifolds, so as to conduct the heat down the exhaust system, as opposed to allowing the manifolds to be their usual heat radiating selves? I?m still thinking a winter project will be getting mine coated [Jet-Hot, etc.]. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: Monday, September 4, 2017 10:14 AM Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps My BJ8 seems to perform better with the increased O2 of lower ambient temps in the evenings and mornings. There even seem to be fewer rattles squeaks and groans too ! I have an oil cooler, electric rad. fan oil temp gauge and standard rad. Whenever I spend more than say 20 mins in traffic after the engine oil is already up to temp, the idling is impacted due to what must be due to increased engine compartment air temp, and the HD8 mixture becoming too rich for that ambient. So I decided to do some crude testing, and installed a temp. pick up near the rear carb intake. In an ambient of around 85F and sustained cruising at around 60 MPH ? elec. rad fan off Water is 190F Oil is 165- 170F Engine compartment is around 130F At same ambient and elec. fan now on and after 25 mins idling in traffic Water is 200F Oil is 180 F Engine compartment is over 155F and idling has to be nursed to avoid stalling. This must be a build up of exhaust heat with no exit path. Have tried to compromise with mixture settings but not yet found a sweet spot. So l was wondering if anyone has tried to improve engine compartment venting and how ? Assume this why some cars have louvers on hood or side of car. Ideas comments welcome. On a similar thread has anyone used the cold vent air to bring cooler air to the carb intake area when cruising ? Results ? rg _____ Image removed by sender. AVG logo This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD348.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From goldengt at cal.net Sun Sep 10 09:28:56 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 08:28:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found I had the same issues with the Midel SUs. See the archives. I went back to my original carbs.Ken Freese?65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob England Date: 9/10/17 7:27 AM (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found Hello All Thanks to all who provided me with their thoughts on the problems getting my engine to run properly.? It has been really great to be able to get some thoughtful feedback on my trials and tribulations. I have found one item with the carbs that I thought I should pass along should anyone else have the issue.? You may recall I could not get the jet to come up to the level of the cab bridge ? it seemed to hang up 1.6mm low.? Yesterday I discovered the problem ? the lever that has the jet fork on one end and the mixture screw on the other is too thick.? Being too thick it hits the mixture screw lobe piece, not allowing the forks to rise, which holds the jets 1.6mm-1.5mm low. These carbs are not original carbs and obviously casting for the fork/screw lever too thick.? Going to do some filing on the piece this afternoon (or maybe take a dremel to it if laziness sets in). Still not confident this will help too much on the rich mixture or 30 degree timing sweet spot, but we shall see ? it certainly wont hurt! Bob England ?65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 10 10:07:54 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 09:07:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home References: <3a8b.42bcb1b5.46e61694@aol.com> Thanks to all for the kind words.? I'm going to read them all to my dad--he's computer-phobic and doesn't see or hear all that great--and I think they will help ease the 'pain of separation' a little. Bob On 9/9/2017 9:16 PM, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > How cool is that??!! Great job and congratulations. > Steven Kingsbury > In a message dated 9/9/2017 3:32:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > bspidell at comcast.net writes: > > Listers, > > I've mentioned my dad's restoration of an old fire engine a few > times. > Yesterday, his work was returned to its rightful home: > > http://www.modbee.com/news/article172032787.html > > Bob > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun Sep 10 13:10:57 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 13:10:57 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found References: <20170910152859.7874B1A09EA@mail.cal.net> Ken No luck on the archives (probably not Bob England > On Sep 10, 2017, at 9:28 AM, goldengt wrote: > > I had the same issues with the Midel SUs. See the archives. I went back to my original carbs. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Bob England > Date: 9/10/17 7:27 AM (GMT-08:00) > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found > > Hello All > > Thanks to all who provided me with their thoughts on the problems getting my engine to run properly. It has been really great to be able to get some thoughtful feedback on my trials and tribulations. > > I have found one item with the carbs that I thought I should pass along should anyone else have the issue. You may recall I could not get the jet to come up to the level of the cab bridge ? it seemed to hang up 1.6mm low. Yesterday I discovered the problem ? the lever that has the jet fork on one end and the mixture screw on the other is too thick. Being too thick it hits the mixture screw lobe piece, not allowing the forks to rise, which holds the jets 1.6mm-1.5mm low. > > These carbs are not original carbs and obviously casting for the fork/screw lever too thick. Going to do some filing on the piece this afternoon (or maybe take a dremel to it if laziness sets in). > > Still not confident this will help too much on the rich mixture or 30 degree timing sweet spot, but we shall see ? it certainly wont hurt! > > Bob England > ?65 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/goldengt at cal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun Sep 10 13:13:31 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 13:13:31 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found References: <20170910152859.7874B1A09EA@mail.cal.net> Ken No luck in the archives [probably not using the right search parameters]. Not sure if the carbs on the car are Midel carbs but the car only came with the carbs on the car so hopefully I can make some adjustments and get it running like a top. Bob England > On Sep 10, 2017, at 9:28 AM, goldengt wrote: > > I had the same issues with the Midel SUs. See the archives. I went back to my original carbs. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Bob England > Date: 9/10/17 7:27 AM (GMT-08:00) > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found > > Hello All > > Thanks to all who provided me with their thoughts on the problems getting my engine to run properly. It has been really great to be able to get some thoughtful feedback on my trials and tribulations. > > I have found one item with the carbs that I thought I should pass along should anyone else have the issue. You may recall I could not get the jet to come up to the level of the cab bridge ? it seemed to hang up 1.6mm low. Yesterday I discovered the problem ? the lever that has the jet fork on one end and the mixture screw on the other is too thick. Being too thick it hits the mixture screw lobe piece, not allowing the forks to rise, which holds the jets 1.6mm-1.5mm low. > > These carbs are not original carbs and obviously casting for the fork/screw lever too thick. Going to do some filing on the piece this afternoon (or maybe take a dremel to it if laziness sets in). > > Still not confident this will help too much on the rich mixture or 30 degree timing sweet spot, but we shall see ? it certainly wont hurt! > > Bob England > ?65 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/goldengt at cal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Sun Sep 10 15:12:07 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 14:12:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found References: <20170910152859.7874B1A09EA@mail.cal.net> <39FF0BD2-E1F9-4D95-8A85-D8C7CCA2FD58@accesscomm.ca> I found the old email in the archives:I got new HD8's in 2001 and as I recall they were fine out of the box. I no longer remember my initial setup mixture adjustment techniques, but after last year's engine rebuild I couldn't seem to get an idle via the slow run screw. A good overall mixture was achieved on the engine dyno, though, using oxygen sensors. A few months ago, I wanted to get back to basics which is having the jet flush with the bridge and then richening the screw 2.5 turns. I could not get the jet up high enough to be flush (instead was .035 down). Thus I asked this list about what depth below flush corresponds to 2.5 turns. I think I got one response but I dug up an old HD8 and 2.5 turns corresponds to .060 depth which also corresponds to a 1:1 lever ratio with a screw pitch of 40 threads per inch. Yesterday I found out the two reasons I couldn't get the jet flush and they are unique to these new reproduction carburetors, not withstanding using "SU tooling". 1. The Burlen jets are very short. They are 1.145 long. The old SU and Moss supplied jets are 1.177. That is quite a bit. 2. The lever that holds the mixture screw is not shaped properly. It interferes with another part of the casting so that the mixture screw lever doesn't get full travel in the lean direction. Another area of difference to the original HD8 SU's is the use of metal throttle shaft bushings and push on rubber seals instead of Teflon sleeves. After 10 to 15 thousand miles, there is way too much slop in these bushings, requiring attention. One bushing has quite a large burr on it and the adjacent rubber seal has lots of cracks that the three don't. That seal won't last much longer. The bushings are of a split design, so I guess they have to leak a little bit. Conclusion: might as well get your old HD8's rebuilt. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ ----- Original Message ----- From: Engl To: goldengt Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 12:13:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found Ken No luck in the archives [probably not using the right search parameters]. Not sure if the carbs on the car are Midel carbs but the car only came with the carbs on the car so hopefully I can make some adjustments and get it running like a top. Bob England On Sep 10, 2017, at 9:28 AM, goldengt wrote: I had the same issues with the Midel SUs. See the archives. I went back to my original carbs.Ken Freese 65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob England Date: 9/10/17 7:27 AM (GMT-08:00)To: healeys at autox.team.netSubject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found Hello All Thanks to all who provided me with their thoughts on the problems getting my engine to run properly. It has been really great to be able to get some thoughtful feedback on my trials and tribulations. I have found one item with the carbs that I thought I should pass along should anyone else have the issue. You may recall I could not get the jet to come up to the level of the cab bridge ? it seemed to hang up 1.6mm low. Yesterday I discovered the problem ? the lever that has the jet fork on one end and the mixture screw on the other is too thick. Being too thick it hits the mixture screw lobe piece, not allowing the forks to rise, which holds the jets 1.6mm-1.5mm low. These carbs are not original carbs and obviously casting for the fork/screw lever too thick. Going to do some filing on the piece this afternoon (or maybe take a dremel to it if laziness sets in). Still not confident this will help too much on the rich mixture or 30 degree timing sweet spot, but we shall see ? it certainly wont hurt! Bob England ?65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun Sep 10 16:19:18 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 16:19:18 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found References: <20170910152859.7874B1A09EA@mail.cal.net> <39FF0BD2-E1F9-4D95-8A85-D8C7CCA2FD58@accesscomm.ca> <1550287836.126208.1505077927763.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> Thanks Ken Interesting. I found the same thing as you points 1 and 2. For point 1 I had ordered new jets from Joe Curto last week and they are indeed a bit longer than the ones that were in the carbs. On your point 2 I fixed that with a Dremel this afternoon. I also found this afternoon that one of the throttle plates was ever so slightly off centre, so have made this adjustment. Hopefully this will help too. Don't have the old carbs to rebuild, so am about to put the carbs back in the car as I type this. Bob England > On Sep 10, 2017, at 3:12 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote: > > I found the old email in the archives: > > > I got new HD8's in 2001 and as I recall they were fine out of the box. I > no longer remember my initial setup mixture adjustment techniques, but > after last year's engine rebuild I couldn't seem to get an idle via the > slow run screw. A good overall mixture was achieved on the engine dyno, > though, using oxygen sensors. A few months ago, I wanted to get back to > basics which is having the jet flush with the bridge and then richening > the screw 2.5 turns. I could not get the jet up high enough to be flush > (instead was .035 down). Thus I asked this list about what depth below > flush corresponds to 2.5 turns. I think I got one response but I dug up > an old HD8 and 2.5 turns corresponds to .060 depth which also > corresponds to a 1:1 lever ratio with a screw pitch of 40 threads per > inch. > Yesterday I found out the two reasons I couldn't get the jet flush and > they are unique to these new reproduction carburetors, not withstanding > using "SU tooling". > 1. The Burlen jets are very short. They are 1.145 long. The old SU and > Moss supplied jets are 1.177. That is quite a bit. > > 2. The lever that holds the mixture screw is not shaped properly. It > interferes with another part of the casting so that the mixture screw > lever doesn't get full travel in the lean direction. > > Another area of difference to the original HD8 SU's is the use of metal > throttle shaft bushings and push on rubber seals instead of Teflon > sleeves. After 10 to 15 thousand miles, there is way too much slop in > these bushings, requiring attention. One bushing has quite a large burr > on it and the adjacent rubber seal has lots of cracks that the three > don't. That seal won't last much longer. The bushings are of a split > design, so I guess they have to leak a little bit. > > Conclusion: might as well get your old HD8's rebuilt. > > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Engl > To: goldengt > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 12:13:31 -0700 (PDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found > > Ken > > No luck in the archives [probably not using the right search parameters]. > > Not sure if the carbs on the car are Midel carbs but the car only came with the carbs on the car so hopefully I can make some adjustments and get it running like a top. > > > Bob England > > On Sep 10, 2017, at 9:28 AM, goldengt wrote: > > I had the same issues with the Midel SUs. See the archives. I went back to my original carbs. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Bob England > Date: 9/10/17 7:27 AM (GMT-08:00) > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found > > Hello All > > Thanks to all who provided me with their thoughts on the problems getting my engine to run properly. It has been really great to be able to get some thoughtful feedback on my trials and tribulations. > > I have found one item with the carbs that I thought I should pass along should anyone else have the issue. You may recall I could not get the jet to come up to the level of the cab bridge ? it seemed to hang up 1.6mm low. Yesterday I discovered the problem ? the lever that has the jet fork on one end and the mixture screw on the other is too thick. Being too thick it hits the mixture screw lobe piece, not allowing the forks to rise, which holds the jets 1.6mm-1.5mm low. > > These carbs are not original carbs and obviously casting for the fork/screw lever too thick. Going to do some filing on the piece this afternoon (or maybe take a dremel to it if laziness sets in). > > Still not confident this will help too much on the rich mixture or 30 degree timing sweet spot, but we shall see ? it certainly wont hurt! > > Bob England > ?65 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/goldengt at cal.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 10 16:21:22 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 15:21:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: <297E23C54BE0484892950BB052CAC756@WINDOWST93OFP9> <027f01d3259f$f7fee020$e7fca060$@bighealey.org> <035001d32a48$2160cbc0$64226340$@rr.com> re: "... I see no need to wrap them" It looks cool!?? 'Nuff said. bs On 9/10/2017 8:18 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > I had mine Jet-Hot coated in 1999, and also didn't see any significant > effect on the engine temps.? They surely looked a lot better than the > old rusty manifolds and have held up really well over that time and > about 80K miles.? Some browning is beginning to show at the sharp > edges, but I think I have got my money's worth out of Jet-Hot and if I > ever have a reason to remove the manifolds I'll probably get them > coated again. > > I've never wrapped the downpipes.?? The new radiator core and the > sleeved thermostat together have solved the engine heat problem, so I > see no need to wrap them. > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Monday, September 04, 2017 3:38 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps > > FWIW, I just had the manifolds on my BJ8 Jet-Hot coated and haven't > noticed much, if any, difference in running temps or other effects (I > also wrapped my downpipes).? YMMV. > > Bob > > On 9/4/2017 10:05 AM, Al Fuller wrote: > > Roger: > > Have you considered coating the exhaust manifolds, so as to > conduct the heat down the exhaust system, as opposed to allowing > the manifolds to be their usual heat radiating selves? > > I?m still thinking a winter project will be getting mine coated > [Jet-Hot, etc.]. > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 10 16:22:43 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 15:22:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found References: <20170910152859.7874B1A09EA@mail.cal.net> Ouch!? New SUs ain't cheap, did you get a refund? On 9/10/2017 8:28 AM, goldengt wrote: > I had the same issues with the Midel SUs. See the archives. I went > back to my original carbs. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Bob England > Date: 9/10/17 7:27 AM (GMT-08:00) > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found > > Hello All > > Thanks to all who provided me with their thoughts on the problems > getting my engine to run properly.? It has been really great to be > able to get some thoughtful feedback on my trials and tribulations. > > I have found one item with the carbs that I thought I should pass > along should anyone else have the issue.? You may recall I could not > get the jet to come up to the level of the cab bridge ? it seemed to > hang up 1.6mm low.? Yesterday I discovered the problem ? the lever > that has the jet fork on one end and the mixture screw on the other is > too thick.? Being too thick it hits the mixture screw lobe piece, not > allowing the forks to rise, which holds the jets 1.6mm-1.5mm low. > > These carbs are not original carbs and obviously casting for the > fork/screw lever too thick.? Going to do some filing on the piece this > afternoon (or maybe take a dremel to it if laziness sets in). > > Still not confident this will help too much on the rich mixture or 30 > degree timing sweet spot, but we shall see ? it certainly wont hurt! > > Bob England > ?65 BJ8 > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Sep 10 17:04:19 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 16:04:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Irma References: <00cb01d32a42$995ca4b0$cc15ee10$@ca> ? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 7:39 AM, Bob England wrote: > One thing I neglected to add in my post of a few minutes ago on SU carbs > was my thoughts on Hurricane Irma. > > > > We just got back from Orlando (early yesterday morning), having to cut our > vacation in Orlando a couple of days short. I had to admire the spirit of > the locals who assisted in getting us booked out of the hotel, renting a > car so we could fly out of Tampa (as nothing was available to get out of > Orlando). Everyone seemed more concerned to help us leave the area safely > (except our airline) than for their own safety. I can?t express my > appreciation in words. > > > > To all on the list that may be affected, stay safe. We might loose a few > Healeys in the storm, but don?t want to loose any of our friends from this > list. > > > > Bob England > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Sun Sep 10 17:32:49 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 16:32:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: <297E23C54BE0484892950BB052CAC756@WINDOWST93OFP9> <027f01d3259f$f7fee020$e7fca060$@bighealey.org> <035001d32a48$2160cbc0$64226340$@rr.com> <5ada1520-463b-fdeb-1f35-8564f95c5a81@comcast.net> Wrapping cast iron manifolds will cause them to start to flake the metal off. Been there, done that on non coated manifolds. Ken Freese65 BJ8-- Original Message -----From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 15:21:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps re: "... I see no need to wrap them"It looks cool! 'Nuff said.bs On 9/10/2017 8:18 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: I had mine Jet-Hot coated in 1999, and also didn't see any significant effect on the engine temps. They surely looked a lot better than the old rusty manifolds and have held up really well over that time and about 80K miles. Some browning is beginning to show at the sharp edges, but I think I have got my money's worth out of Jet-Hot and if I ever have a reason to remove the manifolds I'll probably get them coated again. I've never wrapped the downpipes. The new radiator core and the sleeved thermostat together have solved the engine heat problem, so I see no need to wrap them. Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, September 04, 2017 3:38 PM To:healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps FWIW, I just had the manifolds on my BJ8 Jet-Hot coated and haven't noticed much, if any, difference in running temps or other effects (I also wrapped my downpipes). YMMV.Bob On 9/4/2017 10:05 AM, Al Fuller wrote:Roger: Have you considered coating the exhaust manifolds, so as to conduct the heat down the exhaust system, as opposed to allowing the manifolds to be their usual heat radiating selves? I?m still thinking a winter project will be getting mine coated [Jet-Hot, etc.]. Al Fulleral at bighealey dot org'65 BJ-8'85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Sun Sep 10 17:50:06 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 16:50:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found References: <20170910152859.7874B1A09EA@mail.cal.net> <1cf97cba-9cc9-60d3-8208-8725bb3e703e@comcast.net> No, I had used them for about 7 years. I might sell them to Jerry Costanzo, though.Ken Freese65 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 15:22:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found Ouch! New SUs ain't cheap, did you get a refund? On 9/10/2017 8:28 AM, goldengt wrote: I had the same issues with the Midel SUs. See the archives. I went back to my original carbs.Ken Freese 65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob England Date: 9/10/17 7:27 AM (GMT-08:00)To: healeys at autox.team.netSubject: [Healeys] SU HD carb - one issue found Hello All Thanks to all who provided me with their thoughts on the problems getting my engine to run properly. It has been really great to be able to get some thoughtful feedback on my trials and tribulations. I have found one item with the carbs that I thought I should pass along should anyone else have the issue. You may recall I could not get the jet to come up to the level of the cab bridge ? it seemed to hang up 1.6mm low. Yesterday I discovered the problem ? the lever that has the jet fork on one end and the mixture screw on the other is too thick. Being too thick it hits the mixture screw lobe piece, not allowing the forks to rise, which holds the jets 1.6mm-1.5mm low. These carbs are not original carbs and obviously casting for the fork/screw lever too thick. Going to do some filing on the piece this afternoon (or maybe take a dremel to it if laziness sets in). Still not confident this will help too much on the rich mixture or 30 degree timing sweet spot, but we shall see ? it certainly wont hurt! Bob England ?65 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun Sep 10 14:56:47 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 16:56:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home References: <3a8b.42bcb1b5.46e61694@aol.com> <656de4af-f429-d81c-8150-d858162fe673@comcast.net> Great work by your Dad. My Mom was a bookkeeper for Maxim Motors (later bought out by Seagrave) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maxim_Motors and I always enjoyed going into the shop and seeing the trucks they built from the chassis up. Lots of hand fabrication. Rick Neville On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 12:07 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Thanks to all for the kind words. I'm going to read them all to my > dad--he's computer-phobic and doesn't see or hear all that great--and I > think they will help ease the 'pain of separation' a little. > > Bob > > On 9/9/2017 9:16 PM, ATIGHTPROD at aol.com wrote: > > How cool is that??!! Great job and congratulations. > Steven Kingsbury > > In a message dated 9/9/2017 3:32:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > bspidell at comcast.net writes: > > Listers, > > I've mentioned my dad's restoration of an old fire engine a few times. > Yesterday, his work was returned to its rightful home: > > http://www.modbee.com/news/article172032787.html > > Bob > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Sep 10 20:55:29 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2017 10:55:29 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: <297E23C54BE0484892950BB052CAC756@WINDOWST93OFP9> <027f01d3259f$f7fee020$e7fca060$@bighealey.org> <035001d32a48$2160cbc0$64226340$@rr.com> Jet hot helped me alot with under bonnet temps, but I sit a bit in traffic from time to time so that could be the difference. On Sun, Sep 10, 2017 at 11:18 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > I had mine Jet-Hot coated in 1999, and also didn't see any significant > effect on the engine temps. They surely looked a lot better than the old > rusty manifolds and have held up really well over that time and about 80K > miles. Some browning is beginning to show at the sharp edges, but I think > I have got my money's worth out of Jet-Hot and if I ever have a reason to > remove the manifolds I'll probably get them coated again. > > > > I've never wrapped the downpipes. The new radiator core and the sleeved > thermostat together have solved the engine heat problem, so I see no need > to wrap them. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun Sep 10 20:56:45 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 19:56:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carbs References: <503a340f-8ca0-de40-36be-e32accd30679@comcast.net> Thanks to all regarding my hard-starting BJ8.? I spent awhile going over everything.? Points ok, compression ok, plugs ok.? I pulled the choke cable clear out and found a broken strand, so cut that off and readjusted the whole choke mechanism from scratch.? Seems better now, although still could improve.? Fun to reassemble, but I found the right words. Mike If I may lean on the Group's Wisdom (capitalized, as it is The wisdom). My BJ8 runs fine, but is very hard starting.? The carbs are adjusted per the instructions, as is the choke.? Not easy to do the choke, but done. When cold, the choke is needed for starting, and in fact, almost won't run without it, but once it's warm, choke not needed. Battery is charged, electrical connections all tight.? In fact, the starter spins rapidly. I have found that if I depress the float on one of the carbs for a couple of fuel pump clicks (in other words, priming it), it starts right up and idles and runs fine. Any ideas will be appreciated. Mike --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 From amalin at mac.com Mon Sep 11 11:39:39 2017 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2017 13:39:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - wiring question References: <001901d328c6$87f80390$97e80ab0$@nc.rr.com> <99DE71E5-2DD0-458F-BDF2-0C7A1F57FCB8@mac.com> <004801d32914$477c75a0$d67560e0$@nc.rr.com> Bob, Attached are two photos: 1) wires to donor voltage regulator; 2) wires from Delco alternator. BTW, red no charge/charge dash light works. Al Malin Tricarb > On Sep 8, 2017, at 10:35 PM, Bob Simmen wrote: > > Al, > Thanks for the response. A great idea! > Do you still have a diagram of the wiring changes that are necessary? If > you do, please forward. > Thanks again, > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Al Malin [mailto:amalin at mac.com] > Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 9:36 PM > To: Bob Simmen > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - wiring question > > I gutted a donor voltage regulator (I saved my original) and made the > necessary wiring changes within it. No modification of the existing wiring > harness was required. > > Al Malin > Tricarb > > >> On Sep 8, 2017, at 1:18 PM, Bob Simmen wrote: >> >> With the amount of knowledge in this group, I am hopeful someone will be > able to help. >> >> I am converting from a generator to an alternator an a 67 BJ8, negative > ground system. There should be available a schematic/picture to build a new > wire sub-assembly that would simply replace the existing voltage regulator. > This would be without cutting any of the existing car wire harness, plug > into the existing spade terminals on the car wire harness, and allow for > conversion back to the generator and voltage regulator if needed. >> >> Thank you in advance. >> >> Have a great day! >> Bob >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5067.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2473993 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5069.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1565725 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 11 15:34:05 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2017 14:34:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps References: <297E23C54BE0484892950BB052CAC756@WINDOWST93OFP9> <027f01d3259f$f7fee020$e7fca060$@bighealey.org> <035001d32a48$2160cbc0$64226340$@rr.com> <5ada1520-463b-fdeb-1f35-8564f95c5a81@comcast.net> <1738000049.136551.1505086369958.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> I wrapped downpipes only.? 50K miles or so and no damage. On 9/10/2017 4:32 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote: > Wrapping cast iron manifolds will cause them to start to flake the > metal off. Been there, done that on non coated manifolds. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > > -- Original Message ----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 15:21:22 -0700 (PDT) > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Temps > > re: "... I see no need to wrap them" > > It looks cool!?? 'Nuff said. > > bs > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Sep 11 22:01:15 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2017 04:01:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Hub nuts finally off! References: <6675287.97389.1505188875847.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks to everyone on the list for their advice and encouragement with getting the hub nuts off the diff.? I got them off tonight using the hub nut tube socket from John Sims. (Thanks John). One of the nuts was partially off and it was easy work to get it off the rest of the way.? The other nut was a different story.? I thought I was going to have to get the torch out to loosen it up.? Turns out a 24 inch breaker bar with half of my jack handle tubing as a cheater extension worked.? I thought I would break the breaker bar just before there was a loud crack when the nut let go.? After that, it was easy to turn it off the rest of the way by hand.? Now to get the hubs off.? Thanks everyone!Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Sep 11 22:38:37 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2017 21:38:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hub nuts finally off! References: <6675287.97389.1505188875847.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <6675287.97389.1505188875847@mail.yahoo.com> ? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 9:01 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Thanks to everyone on the list for their advice and encouragement with > getting the hub nuts off the diff. I got them off tonight using the hub > nut tube socket from John Sims. (Thanks John). One of the nuts was > partially off and it was easy work to get it off the rest of the way. The > other nut was a different story. I thought I was going to have to get the > torch out to loosen it up. Turns out a 24 inch breaker bar with half of my > jack handle tubing as a cheater extension worked. I thought I would break > the breaker bar just before there was a loud crack when the nut let go. > After that, it was easy to turn it off the rest of the way by hand. Now to > get the hubs off. Thanks everyone! > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Sep 12 04:17:27 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2017 18:17:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - wiring question References: <001901d328c6$87f80390$97e80ab0$@nc.rr.com> <99DE71E5-2DD0-458F-BDF2-0C7A1F57FCB8@mac.com> <004801d32914$477c75a0$d67560e0$@nc.rr.com> <127EAFDF-874D-4ACE-A8A8-1F4558634F67@mac.com> Nice junction box! On Tue, Sep 12, 2017 at 1:39 AM, Al Malin wrote: > Bob, > > Attached are two photos: 1) wires to donor voltage regulator; 2) wires > from Delco alternator. BTW, red no charge/charge dash light works. > > Al Malin > Tricarb > > > On Sep 8, 2017, at 10:35 PM, Bob Simmen wrote: > > Al, > Thanks for the response. A great idea! > Do you still have a diagram of the wiring changes that are necessary? If > you do, please forward. > Thanks again, > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Al Malin [mailto:amalin at mac.com ] > Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 9:36 PM > To: Bob Simmen > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator to Alternator conversion - wiring question > > I gutted a donor voltage regulator (I saved my original) and made the > necessary wiring changes within it. No modification of the existing wiring > harness was required. > > Al Malin > Tricarb > > > On Sep 8, 2017, at 1:18 PM, Bob Simmen wrote: > > With the amount of knowledge in this group, I am hopeful someone will be > > able to help. > > > I am converting from a generator to an alternator an a 67 BJ8, negative > > ground system. There should be available a schematic/picture to build a > new > wire sub-assembly that would simply replace the existing voltage regulator. > This would be without cutting any of the existing car wire harness, plug > into the existing spade terminals on the car wire harness, and allow for > conversion back to the generator and voltage regulator if needed. > > > Thank you in advance. > > Have a great day! > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5067.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2473993 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5069.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1565725 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Sep 12 06:18:50 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2017 08:18:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Hub nuts finally off! References: <6675287.97389.1505188875847.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <6675287.97389.1505188875847@mail.yahoo.com> BTW the hub nut socket that Mike is referring to is available from Moss. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=38160 It is listed for a MG but that is the one that he used. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 12:39 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hub nuts finally off! ? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB MG A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 9:01 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Thanks to everyone on the list for their advice and encouragement with getting the hub nuts off the diff. I got them off tonight using the hub nut tube socket from John Sims. (Thanks John). One of the nuts was partially off and it was easy work to get it off the rest of the way. The other nut was a different story. I thought I was going to have to get the torch out to loosen it up. Turns out a 24 inch breaker bar with half of my jack handle tubing as a cheater extension worked. I thought I would break the breaker bar just before there was a loud crack when the nut let go. After that, it was easy to turn it off the rest of the way by hand. Now to get the hubs off. Thanks everyone! Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Sep 12 08:41:34 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2017 15:41:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Scissors lift My garage/workshop has a very low ceiling and a floor that, I suspect, covers a multitude of historic sins. So, although I want to put in a lift, I'm pretty well stuck. I may be able to put in a 4 poster with a beam jack, but they're pretty well all 3 phase. Has anyone tried one of these? Or something similar? I have located a 240volt version so am past the 3 phase hurdle. I was expecting to have to lay some wood down on either side for clearance and then just keeping the car, MkII 3000, over the top of it. Any ideas? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 12 08:56:41 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2017 14:56:41 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Scissors lift References: <003e01d32bd5$3b7491c0$b25db540$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> FWIW while not UK specs here in the USA I have a Rotary Revolution 4 Poster 110v. Another watch out beyond height of the car on the lift is the garage door height when rolled back and span into the garage if it is rolled in. Regards, Richard C My garage/workshop has a very low ceiling and a floor that, I suspect, covers a multitude of historic sins. So, although I want to put in a lift, I?m pretty well stuck. I may be able to put in a 4 poster with a beam jack, but they?re pretty well all 3 phase. Has anyone tried one of these? Or something similar? I have located a 240volt version so am past the 3 phase hurdle. I was expecting to have to lay some wood down on either side for clearance and then just keeping the car, MkII 3000, over the top of it. Any ideas? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Sep 12 09:58:18 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2017 15:58:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Scissors lift References: <003e01d32bd5$3b7491c0$b25db540$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> I had a four post lift in my two car garage.? I had intended to stack the Bugeye on top of the BN2.? The problem was the rafters were only 8 feet high.? I was further limited by the roll up garage door.? With the Bugeye on the lift I could not raise it high enough to roll any car, not even the BN2 with the windshield folded back under it.? To make matters worse the lift took up more than half the floor space and I was keeping the body shell of the BN2, the Bugeye and a Harley Davidson in there.? To say things were cramped is a gross understatement.? I finally traded the lift for bodywork services on the BN2.? Even that turned into a disaster as the guy doing the bodywork took off one night before the work was done on my car and took my windshield assembly with him.? I have learned some very costly lessons during the restoration of this car.? As the car is not finished, I am sure there are others out there that are going to teach me another costly lesson.? If I have any kind of a lift in my two car garage now, it would be a small scissor type that I could store out of the way when not in use.? Lesson learned.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, Sep 12, 2017 at 8:42 AM, Richard Collins wrote: _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Sep 12 10:02:45 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2017 09:02:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Scissors lift References: <59b7f913.5530240a.57d68.29b1SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> I have used a similar unit and yes I needed to use wood to keep the exhaust from being hit. I have looked into similar ones fro my house as I have low ceilings due to bedrooms upstairs. On my wish list. I just bought my wife a MGB and as she got out of it she commented on how low it was and thought a lift would make it easier for her to help me work on it. I let her know that there was no part of that plan I found fault with :) Just need the money ! Cheers Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Sep 12, 2017 at 7:41 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > My garage/workshop has a very low ceiling and a floor that, I suspect, > covers a multitude of historic sins. So, although I want to put in a lift, > I?m pretty well stuck. I may be able to put in a 4 poster with a beam jack, > but they?re pretty well all 3 phase. > > Has anyone tried one of these? Or something similar? I have located a > 240volt version so am past the 3 phase hurdle. > > I was expecting to have to lay some wood down on either side for clearance > and then just keeping the car, MkII 3000, over the top of it. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Sep 12 10:05:57 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2017 09:05:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home References: <20170910005722.3644B25896F9@autox.team.net> Kina?ole, indeed! Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 3:55 PM, Perry wrote: > Bob > > As a former assistant fire chief for a local volunteer fire department > many years ago, all I can say is ?Wow what a job!?. The Seagrave is a > monster of a truck, not as pretty as say an American LaFrance, but built to > do the job. As an engineer and an old car guy the photo the restoration > looks great. As an old man who has seen what a active and open fire house > does for kids, the kids in that neighborhood will long remember their > experience at the fire station museum and your Dad?s work and gift to the > community. > > > > There is a phrase in Hawaiian, Kina?ole. It basically means: Doing the > right thing, in the right way, at the right time, in the right place, for > the right individual, for the right reason, with the right feeling, the > first time. This effort fits the definition and should be applauded. > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Bob Spidell > *Sent: *Saturday, September 9, 2017 6:24 PM > *To: *Healeys > *Subject: *[Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home > > > > Listers, > > > > I've mentioned my dad's restoration of an old fire engine a few times. > > Yesterday, his work was returned to its rightful home: > > > > http://www.modbee.com/news/article172032787.html > > > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sneddon at xsmail.com Tue Sep 12 10:31:37 2017 From: sneddon at xsmail.com (Andy Sneddon) Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2017 17:31:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Scissors lift References: <003e01d32bd5$3b7491c0$b25db540$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Simon, Re the attached link, https://www.facebook.com/JME-Healeys-153056521538209/? JME Healeys have just posted a picture showing part of their new workshop and on the right is an example of what I think you are meaning.? No details, but they are a friendly bunch so I am sure would give you some info. Andy From: Healeys on behalf of Simon Lachlan Date: Tuesday, 12 September 2017 at 15:50 To: Subject: [Healeys] Scissors lift My garage/workshop has a very low ceiling and a floor that, I suspect, covers a multitude of historic sins. So, although I want to put in a lift, I?m pretty well stuck. I may be able to put in a 4 poster with a beam jack, but they?re pretty well all 3 phase. Has anyone tried one of these? Or something similar? I have located a 240volt version so am past the 3 phase hurdle. I was expecting to have to lay some wood down on either side for clearance and then just keeping the car, MkII 3000, over the top of it. Any ideas? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sneddon at xsmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Sep 12 14:04:18 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2017 13:04:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds a Home References: <20170910005722.3644B25896F9@autox.team.net> The MFD acknowledged the donation at the end of their 9/11 commemoration. On 9/12/2017 9:05 AM, i erbs wrote: > Kina?ole, indeed! > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 3:55 PM, Perry > Bob > > As a former assistant fire chief for a local volunteer fire > department many years ago, all I can say is ?Wow what a job!?. The > Seagrave is a monster of a truck, not as pretty as say an American > LaFrance, but built to do the job. As an engineer and an old car > guy the photo the restoration looks great. As an old man who has > seen what a active and open fire house does for kids, the kids in > that neighborhood will long remember their experience at the fire > station museum and your Dad?s work and gift to the community. > > There is a phrase in Hawaiian, Kina?ole. It basically means: Doing > the right thing, in the right way, at the right time, in the right > place, for the right individual, for the right reason, with the > right feeling, the first time.? This effort fits the definition > and should be applauded. > > Perry > > Sent from Mail > for Windows 10 > > *Sent: *Saturday, September 9, 2017 6:24 PM > *Subject: *[Healeys] NO HEALEY CONTENT: Another Restoration Finds > a Home > > Listers, > > I've mentioned my dad's restoration of an old fire engine a few > times. > > Yesterday, his work was returned to its rightful home: > > http://www.modbee.com/news/article172032787.html > > > Bob > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1489.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3119275 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Sep 12 14:30:54 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2017 20:30:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Mixup References: <1684317228.641579.1505248254179.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Now that I have the axle hubs off the rear axle to replace the bearings and seal I find I have two different hubs on the same axle.? One has an O-Ring to seal beneath the gasket and the other has no such circular groove for an O-Ring.? I am sure the one with the O-Ring is original to the car (BN2) but what is the other one off of?? Do I need a matching hub with an circular groove for an O-Ring or will it be OK to mix and match?? BY the way, neither of them had the bearing spacer.? Is that really needed? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Wed Sep 13 01:46:07 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2017 09:46:07 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Hub Mixup References: <1684317228.641579.1505248254179.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1684317228.641579.1505248254179@mail.yahoo.com> Mike The hub with a groove for an O-ring is off a BT7 or later. You need the spacer to be able to squeeze the bearing inside the hub, so that it doesn't spin. The bearing/spacer combination should be slightly larger than the space for it inside the hub, can't remember exactly but it's a question of a few thou. Check the workshop manual. I can't envisage that you get any problem by mixing these to hubs. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 12 sep. 2017 kl. 22:30 skrev Michael MacLean : > > Now that I have the axle hubs off the rear axle to replace the bearings and seal I find I have two different hubs on the same axle. One has an O-Ring to seal beneath the gasket and the other has no such circular groove for an O-Ring. I am sure the one with the O-Ring is original to the car (BN2) but what is the other one off of? Do I need a matching hub with an circular groove for an O-Ring or will it be OK to mix and match? BY the way, neither of them had the bearing spacer. Is that really needed? > Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kentmclean at comcast.net Wed Sep 13 05:00:24 2017 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2017 07:00:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Scissors lift References: Simon Lachlan wrote: > My garage/workshop has a very low ceiling and a floor that, I suspect, > covers a multitude of historic sins. So, although I want to put in a lift, > I'm pretty well stuck. Grassroots Motorsports magazine had a garage makeover that featured a scissors lift embedded in the floor. It was for some VW-like car, but it would work nicely with a low-slung Healey. Scroll down to see the lift in action. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55006 - Kent McLean ?56 100 BN2 From dwflagg at juno.com Wed Sep 13 19:15:05 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2017 01:15:05 GMT Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ "Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now! Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From peter at nosimport.com Thu Sep 14 08:17:55 2017 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2017 09:17:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion References: <20170913.211505.9540.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com> Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57?? the other is stamped? 90 or 06? depending on your view.? I suppose they could also be rechromed, too. Peter C On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: > To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 > windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the > stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". > My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had > different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. > Cheers, > Doug > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* > Healthier Patriot > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc > SponsoredBy Content.Ad > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com > -- Peter Caldwell World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI 2517 Seiferth Rd Madison WI 53716 (608)223-9400 www.nosimport.com http://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Thu Sep 14 15:36:56 2017 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2017 21:36:56 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion I have a very early BN1 and neither one of my stanchions are stamped with any numbers. Unless they're stamped somewhere I've never looked, but I did go over them pretty closely. Car was built in October 1953. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Sep 13, 2017, at 08:51 PM, "dwflagg at juno.com" wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. ? Cheers, ? Doug ____________________________________________________________ "Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now! Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Sep 14 19:09:13 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2017 21:09:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion References: <1d50294b-5262-4dc6-ad1b-ce1f14444868@me.com> Just checked an early set, I believe 1953, and neither stanchion has number stamped. But these have been messed with over the years and a chrome shop has been part of the mess. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Steven Kingsbury Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 8:25 PM To: dwflagg at juno.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion I have a very early BN1 and neither one of my stanchions are stamped with any numbers. Unless they're stamped somewhere I've never looked, but I did go over them pretty closely. Car was built in October 1953. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Sep 13, 2017, at 08:51 PM, "dwflagg at juno.com" wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. ? Cheers, ? Doug ____________________________________________________________ "Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now! Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey3776 at gmail.com Fri Sep 15 08:32:21 2017 From: healey3776 at gmail.com (melvin) Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 10:32:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion References: <20170913.211505.9540.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com> Doug, I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is stamped 05. Mel Brunet On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > > Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57?? the other is > stamped? 90 or 06? depending on your view.? I suppose they could also > be rechromed, too. > > Peter C > > > On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: >> To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 >> windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the >> stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". >> My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had >> different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. >> Cheers, >> Doug >> >> >> ____________________________________________________________ >> *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* >> Healthier Patriot >> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc >> SponsoredBy Content.Ad >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com >> > > -- > Peter Caldwell > World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI > 2517 Seiferth Rd > Madison WI 53716 > (608)223-9400 > www.nosimport.com > http://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Sep 15 10:00:20 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 09:00:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion References: <20170913.211505.9540.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com> Doug, These were separate numbers, different for left and right, but the same for the stanchon and windshield post on the corresponding side. Therefore, my left ones were numbered C97 and the right ones C87, both top and bottom. Coincidentally, my body number is 7197. I have never heard that the last two digits matched the last two of the body number. This seems like it is just a coincidence on my car, but I'll check the numbers of the original cars that I have documented. Cheers Curt On Sep 15, 2017 8:45 AM, "melvin" wrote: Doug, I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is stamped 05. Mel Brunet On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57 the other is stamped 90 or 06 depending on your view. I suppose they could also be rechromed, too. Peter C On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com -- Peter Caldwell World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI 2517 Seiferth Rd Madison WI 53716(608)223-9400 <(608)%20223-9400>www.nosimport.comhttp://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Fri Sep 15 11:18:56 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 10:18:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion References: <20170913.211505.9540.0@webmail08.dca.untd.com> I'll send photos of my actual numbers and the list of original matching windshield numbers when I return from Tokyo on Friday. On Friday, September 15, 2017, Curtis Arndt wrote: > Doug, > > These were separate numbers, different for left and right, but the same > for the stanchon and windshield post on the corresponding side. Therefore, > my left ones were numbered C97 and the right ones C87, both top and bottom. > > Coincidentally, my body number is 7197. > > I have never heard that the last two digits matched the last two of the > body number. > > This seems like it is just a coincidence on my car, but I'll check the > numbers of the original cars that I have documented. > > Cheers > > Curt > > > On Sep 15, 2017 8:45 AM, "melvin" > wrote: > > > Doug, > > I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is > stamped 05. > > Mel Brunet > > On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > > Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57 the other is > stamped 90 or 06 depending on your view. I suppose they could also be > rechromed, too. > > Peter C > > On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com > wrote: > > To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen > it was stated, "I believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , > should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit > fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter > stamped. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. > > Cheers, > > Doug > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* > Healthier Patriot > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc > [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com > > > -- > Peter Caldwell > World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI > 2517 Seiferth Rd > Madison WI 53716(608)223-9400 <(608)%20223-9400>www.nosimport.comhttp://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnbday at me.com Fri Sep 15 14:08:54 2017 From: johnbday at me.com (John Day) Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 16:08:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] For those in or near Stowe, Vermont http://www.britishinvasion.com/index.html John Baldwin Day johnbday at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Fri Sep 15 21:27:19 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 23:27:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources I have a single rocker spurting oil several inches in the air on my BJ-8. It's been many years since I replaced a rocker or the whole rocker shaft. Can anyone who has recently used a source for either a whole assembly or just parts comment on their experience? Thanks in advance, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmcharris at hotmail.com Fri Sep 15 22:02:38 2017 From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 04:02:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 windscreen stanchion References: Adding more to the mix.. My 100 that was built in the fall of '54 has a stamping on the drivers side Y23 and the face is smooth. The pass side is stamped U60 on a somewhat rougher surface. I seriously doubt if these were the originals. Possibly during assembly they just pulled them out of a box at random ? But then why bother to have them stamped at all? George McHarris ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 287 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Steven Kingsbury) 2. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Perry) 3. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (melvin) 4. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Curtis Arndt) 5. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Curtis Arndt) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2017 21:36:56 +0000 (GMT) From: Steven Kingsbury To: "dwflagg at juno.com" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion I have a very early BN1 and neither one of my stanchions are stamped with any numbers. Unless they're stamped somewhere I've never looked, but I did go over them pretty closely. Car was built in October 1953. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Sep 13, 2017, at 08:51 PM, "dwflagg at juno.com" wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. ? Cheers, ? Doug ____________________________________________________________ "Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now! Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2017 21:09:13 -0400 From: Perry To: healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Just checked an early set, I believe 1953, and neither stanchion has number stamped. But these have been messed with over the years and a chrome shop has been part of the mess. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Steven Kingsbury Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 8:25 PM To: dwflagg at juno.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion I have a very early BN1 and neither one of my stanchions are stamped with any numbers. Unless they're stamped somewhere I've never looked, but I did go over them pretty closely. Car was built in October 1953. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Sep 13, 2017, at 08:51 PM, "dwflagg at juno.com" wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. ? Cheers, ? Doug ____________________________________________________________ "Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now! Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 10:32:21 -0400 From: melvin To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Doug, I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is stamped 05. Mel Brunet On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > > Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57?? the other is > stamped? 90 or 06? depending on your view.? I suppose they could also > be rechromed, too. > > Peter C > > > On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: >> To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 >> windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the >> stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". >> My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had >> different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. >> Cheers, >> Doug >> >> >> ____________________________________________________________ >> *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* >> Healthier Patriot >> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc >> SponsoredBy Content.Ad >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com >> > > -- > Peter Caldwell > World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI > 2517 Seiferth Rd > Madison WI 53716 > (608)223-9400 > www.nosimport.com [http://www.nosimport.com/image/cache/data/design/slide1-700x300.jpg] World Wide Auto Parts of Madison www.nosimport.com New and remanufactured parts for import vehicles. New or old, foreign or domestic assembly. > http://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts World Wide Import Auto Parts | eBay Stores stores.ebay.com Shop World Wide Import Auto Parts. Find more of what you love on eBay stores! > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 09:00:20 -0700 From: Curtis Arndt To: melvin Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Message-ID: Doug, These were separate numbers, different for left and right, but the same for the stanchon and windshield post on the corresponding side. Therefore, my left ones were numbered C97 and the right ones C87, both top and bottom. Coincidentally, my body number is 7197. I have never heard that the last two digits matched the last two of the body number. This seems like it is just a coincidence on my car, but I'll check the numbers of the original cars that I have documented. Cheers Curt On Sep 15, 2017 8:45 AM, "melvin" wrote: Doug, I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is stamped 05. Mel Brunet On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57 the other is stamped 90 or 06 depending on your view. I suppose they could also be rechromed, too. Peter C On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com -- Peter Caldwell World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI 2517 Seiferth Rd Madison WI 53716(608)223-9400 <(608)%20223-9400>www.nosimport.comhttp://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 10:18:56 -0700 From: Curtis Arndt To: melvin Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Message-ID: I'll send photos of my actual numbers and the list of original matching windshield numbers when I return from Tokyo on Friday. On Friday, September 15, 2017, Curtis Arndt wrote: > Doug, > > These were separate numbers, different for left and right, but the same > for the stanchon and windshield post on the corresponding side. Therefore, > my left ones were numbered C97 and the right ones C87, both top and bottom. > > Coincidentally, my body number is 7197. > > I have never heard that the last two digits matched the last two of the > body number. > > This seems like it is just a coincidence on my car, but I'll check the > numbers of the original cars that I have documented. > > Cheers > > Curt > > > On Sep 15, 2017 8:45 AM, "melvin" > wrote: > > > Doug, > > I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is > stamped 05. > > Mel Brunet > > On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > > Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57 the other is > stamped 90 or 06 depending on your view. I suppose they could also be > rechromed, too. > > Peter C > > On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com > wrote: > > To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen > it was stated, "I believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , > should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit > fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter > stamped. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. > > Cheers, > > Doug > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* > Healthier Patriot > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc > [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com > > > -- > Peter Caldwell > World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI > 2517 Seiferth Rd > Madison WI 53716(608)223-9400 <(608)%20223-9400>www.nosimport.comhttp://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 287 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 15 22:42:52 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 21:42:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources References: <042e01d32e9b$b49e05e0$1dda11a0$@bighealey.org> I believe that indicates the bushes need replacing. John Spaur '62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 8:27 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources I have a single rocker spurting oil several inches in the air on my BJ-8. It's been many years since I replaced a rocker or the whole rocker shaft. Can anyone who has recently used a source for either a whole assembly or just parts comment on their experience? Thanks in advance, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 16 00:10:55 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 23:10:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources References: <042e01d32e9b$b49e05e0$1dda11a0$@bighealey.org> Rocker Arm Specialists rebuilt mine about 30yrs/150K miles ago. At recent overhaul, my engine rebuilder disassembled, cleaned and inspected it and said it was good to go (and he's a perfectionist).? It appears there's been some drama--including a sale of the company to employees and a new name--and they're sometimes hard to get ahold of, but I think it's worth a shot: http://www.rockerarms.com/ Bob On 9/15/2017 8:27 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > > I have a single rocker spurting oil several inches in the air on my > BJ-8.? It?s been many years since I replaced a rocker or the whole > rocker shaft. > > Can anyone who has recently used a source for either a whole assembly > or just parts comment on their experience? > > Thanks in advance, > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Sat Sep 16 07:32:21 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 09:32:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources References: <042e01d32e9b$b49e05e0$1dda11a0$@bighealey.org> <002c01d32ea6$424f2bd0$c6ed8370$@sbcglobal.net> Hi John - probably so. That's why I'm soliciting people's recent experiences. I will obviously be in there working on it. Thanks, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: John Spaur [mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2017 12:43 AM To: 'Al Fuller' ; 'Healey List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources I believe that indicates the bushes need replacing. John Spaur '62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 8:27 PM Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources I have a single rocker spurting oil several inches in the air on my BJ-8. It's been many years since I replaced a rocker or the whole rocker shaft. Can anyone who has recently used a source for either a whole assembly or just parts comment on their experience? Thanks in advance, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Sat Sep 16 07:33:57 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 09:33:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources References: <042e01d32e9b$b49e05e0$1dda11a0$@bighealey.org> Thanks Bob: I have seen their site, and hearing first-hand from someone who did business with them helps. Thanks again, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2017 2:11 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources Rocker Arm Specialists rebuilt mine about 30yrs/150K miles ago. At recent overhaul, my engine rebuilder disassembled, cleaned and inspected it and said it was good to go (and he's a perfectionist). It appears there's been some drama--including a sale of the company to employees and a new name--and they're sometimes hard to get ahold of, but I think it's worth a shot: http://www.rockerarms.com/ Bob On 9/15/2017 8:27 PM, Al Fuller wrote: I have a single rocker spurting oil several inches in the air on my BJ-8. It's been many years since I replaced a rocker or the whole rocker shaft. Can anyone who has recently used a source for either a whole assembly or just parts comment on their experience? Thanks in advance, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sat Sep 16 08:03:51 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 07:03:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources References: <042e01d32e9b$b49e05e0$1dda11a0$@bighealey.org> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Sep 16 12:05:25 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 18:05:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl References: <2126721182.820502.1505585125548.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Is there a way to remove the rear axle brake cylinder without destroying the two plates that lock together to hold it to the backplate?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Sep 16 12:06:28 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 11:06:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources References: t4BQd3VsU2EQ9t4BRdREZO Hello, I had the Rocker Arm for my Healey 3000 engine done by Rocker Arms Unlimited, the link is below. Great service and they are very familiar with BMC engines. I mailed the parts to them and they refurbished and sent back. http://www.rockerarms.com/index.html Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 8:27 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources I have a single rocker spurting oil several inches in the air on my BJ-8. It's been many years since I replaced a rocker or the whole rocker shaft. Can anyone who has recently used a source for either a whole assembly or just parts comment on their experience? Thanks in advance, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Sep 16 12:13:41 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 18:13:41 GMT Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 windscreen stanchion Thanks to all who have replied. It appears the stanchion and foot are machined togetther for the link used to fold the windscreen, thus the matched numbering. This would probably explain the number difference between left and right side. There were examples sent to me where the numbers, at least on one side, did match the last two of the body numbers, but this is probably coincidence, despite what Jethro Gibbs may say!! Thanks again. Cheers, Doug Adding more to the mix..My 100 that was built in the fall of '54 has a stamping on the drivers side Y23 and the face is smooth. The pass side is stamped U60 on a somewhat rougher surface. I seriously doubt if these were the originals.Possibly during assembly they just pulled them out of a box at random ? But then why bother to have them stamped at all? George McHarris From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 287 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Steven Kingsbury) 2. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Perry) 3. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (melvin) 4. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Curtis Arndt) 5. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Curtis Arndt) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2017 21:36:56 +0000 (GMT) From: Steven Kingsbury To: "dwflagg at juno.com" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Message-ID: <1d50294b-5262-4dc6-ad1b-ce1f14444868 at me.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" I have a very early BN1 and neither one of my stanchions are stamped with any numbers. Unless they're stamped somewhere I've never looked, but I did go over them pretty closely. Car was built in October 1953. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Sep 13, 2017, at 08:51 PM, "dwflagg at juno.com" wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. ? Cheers, ? Doug ____________________________________________________________ "Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now! Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archiveswww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2017 21:09:13 -0400 From: Perry To: healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Just checked an early set, I believe 1953, and neither stanchion has number stamped. But these have been messed with over the years and a chrome shop has been part of the mess. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Steven Kingsbury Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 8:25 PM To: dwflagg at juno.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion I have a very early BN1 and neither one of my stanchions are stamped with any numbers. Unless they're stamped somewhere I've never looked, but I did go over them pretty closely. Car was built in October 1953. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Sep 13, 2017, at 08:51 PM, "dwflagg at juno.com" wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. ? Cheers, ? Doug ____________________________________________________________ "Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now! Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archiveswww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 10:32:21 -0400 From: melvin To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed" Doug, I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is stamped 05. Mel Brunet On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > > Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57?? the other is > stamped? 90 or 06? depending on your view.? I suppose they could also > be rechromed, too. > > Peter C > > > On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: >> To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 >> windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the >> stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". >> My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had >> different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. >> Cheers, >> Doug >> >> >> ____________________________________________________________ >> *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* >> Healthier Patriot >> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc >> SponsoredBy Content.Ad >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com >> > > -- > Peter Caldwell > World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI > 2517 Seiferth Rd > Madison WI 53716 > (608)223-9400 > www.nosimport.com World Wide Auto Parts of Madisonwww.nosimport.comNew and remanufactured parts for import vehicles. New or old, foreign or domestic assembly. > http://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts World Wide Import Auto Parts | eBay Storesstores.ebay.comShop World Wide Import Auto Parts. Find more of what you love on eBay stores! > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archiveswww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 09:00:20 -0700 From: Curtis Arndt To: melvin Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Doug, These were separate numbers, different for left and right, but the same for the stanchon and windshield post on the corresponding side. Therefore, my left ones were numbered C97 and the right ones C87, both top and bottom. Coincidentally, my body number is 7197. I have never heard that the last two digits matched the last two of the body number. This seems like it is just a coincidence on my car, but I'll check the numbers of the original cars that I have documented. Cheers Curt On Sep 15, 2017 8:45 AM, "melvin" wrote: Doug, I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is stamped 05. Mel Brunet On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57 the other is stamped 90 or 06 depending on your view. I suppose they could also be rechromed, too. Peter C On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archiveswww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com -- Peter Caldwell World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI 2517 Seiferth Rd Madison WI 53716(608)223-9400 <(608)%20223-9400>www.nosimport.comhttp://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archiveswww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archiveswww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@ gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 10:18:56 -0700 From: Curtis Arndt To: melvin Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I'll send photos of my actual numbers and the list of original matching windshield numbers when I return from Tokyo on Friday. On Friday, September 15, 2017, Curtis Arndt wrote: > Doug, > > These were separate numbers, different for left and right, but the same > for the stanchon and windshield post on the corresponding side. Therefore, > my left ones were numbered C97 and the right ones C87, both top and bottom. > > Coincidentally, my body number is 7197. > > I have never heard that the last two digits matched the last two of the > body number. > > This seems like it is just a coincidence on my car, but I'll check the > numbers of the original cars that I have documented. > > Cheers > > Curt > > > On Sep 15, 2017 8:45 AM, "melvin" > wrote: > > > Doug, > > I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is > stamped 05. > > Mel Brunet > > On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > > Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57 the other is > stamped 90 or 06 depending on your view. I suppose they could also be > rechromed, too. > > Peter C > > On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com > wrote: > > To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen > it was stated, "I believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , > should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit > fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter > stamped. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. > > Cheers, > > Doug > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* > Healthier Patriot > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc > [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archiveswww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com > > > -- > Peter Caldwell > World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI > 2517 Seiferth Rd > Madison WI 53716(608)223-9400 <(608)%20223-9400>www.nosimport.comhttp://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archiveswww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 287 **************************************** ____________________________________________________________ Cardiologist Warns: Throw Out Your Probiotics Now Gundry MD http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/59bd6a0a12aa46a0908f1st03duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmags at cox.net Sat Sep 16 13:39:18 2017 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 14:39:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources Hi Al, I had to replace a pedestal on my BJ8 rocker assembly a few years ago. Got it from Healey Surgeons. Exactly the right part; fit perfectly; no issues. Frank Sent from my iPad From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 16 14:34:48 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 13:34:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl References: <2126721182.820502.1505585125548.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2126721182.820502.1505585125548@mail.yahoo.com> Yep.? Just did this.? One plate has a couple 'hooks,' the other has notches for the hooks.? No big secret, just lift the hooked part enough to clear the notches, and tap the plates apart with a screwdriver.? I was able to reuse the plates. Bob On 9/16/2017 11:05 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Is there a way to remove the rear axle brake cylinder without > destroying the two plates that lock together to hold it to the backplate? > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Sat Sep 16 14:52:53 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 16:52:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl One should have a lip on it allowing you to pry or drive it away from the cylinder allowing the other to be removed. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 14:05:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl Is there a way to remove the rear axle brake cylinder without destroying the two plates that lock together to hold it to the backplate?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 16 15:54:53 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 14:54:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl References: <2126721182.820502.1505585125548.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2126721182.820502.1505585125548@mail.yahoo.com> One of the plates has two lock tabs on the end. I think it is the plate facing down. You need to pry it up and then it will slide off. John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2017 11:05 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl Is there a way to remove the rear axle brake cylinder without destroying the two plates that lock together to hold it to the backplate? Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Sep 16 16:59:53 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 22:59:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl References: <2126721182.820502.1505585125548.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2126721182.820502.1505585125548@mail.yahoo.com> <000001d32f36$6e6182a0$4b2487e0$@sbcglobal.net> Yes, I am prying it up, but it does not move easily.? When I pry it up there is pressure on the wheel cylinder making it difficult to slide out.? Heck, it's been in there 61 years.??Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Sat, Sep 16, 2017 at 2:54 PM, John Spaur wrote: #yiv1284455930 #yiv1284455930 -- _filtered #yiv1284455930 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv1284455930 #yiv1284455930 p.yiv1284455930MsoNormal, #yiv1284455930 li.yiv1284455930MsoNormal, #yiv1284455930 div.yiv1284455930MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv1284455930 a:link, #yiv1284455930 span.yiv1284455930MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1284455930 a:visited, #yiv1284455930 span.yiv1284455930MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1284455930 span.yiv1284455930EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv1284455930 .yiv1284455930MsoChpDefault {} _filtered #yiv1284455930 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv1284455930 div.yiv1284455930WordSection1 {}#yiv1284455930 One of the plates has two lock tabs on the end. I think it is the plate facing down. You need to pry it up and then it will slide off. ? John Spaur ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2017 11:05 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl ? Is there a way to remove the rear axle brake cylinder without destroying the two plates that lock together to hold it to the backplate? Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Sep 16 18:40:02 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 00:40:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl References: <2126721182.820502.1505585125548.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2126721182.820502.1505585125548@mail.yahoo.com> <08962156-0efb-cc6d-1ebe-24e78b56fc74@comcast.net> Thanks guys.? I finally got them out.? After thinking about it for a while I took two small screwdrivers that the blades would just fit in the slots where the bottom plate tabs "locked" the top plate in place.? I drove them in the slot over the "hooks" and tapped the top plate off using a screwdriver and a small hammer.? Everything came apart quite easily after that.? Pain in the butt.? Now I can paint the backplate and re-assemble everything.? Painted the axle casing today after getting it back from the machine shop where it was hot tanked.? Had new bearings and seals installed in the hubs.? The pumpkin has been checked out and is serviceable.? I have pre-bent brake lines I bought in 2006 from Doug Finespanner to put on the rear end and the rest of the car.? Just waiting for the paint to dry now.? Hope I put it all together correctly. ;^)Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Sat, Sep 16, 2017 at 4:33 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From jhomonek at mindspring.com Sat Sep 16 19:54:24 2017 From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H) Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 21:54:24 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] Large Healey Event in October - Not too late! Less than 30 days away. Make your plans today to join us for SE Classic XXXI. This event will be like a mini Conclave. The rural area and location are outstanding for Healey Fall Driving. 2017 Austin Healey Southeastern Classic The Atlanta Chapter of the Austin Healey Club of America is proud to announce that the 2017 Southeastern Classic will return to Lake Guntersville Sate Park in Northeast Alabama. October 12-15, 2017. You don?t want to miss this one. It will be a great time to spend with old and new friends experiencing wonderful fall temperatures, brilliant colors and magnificent sunsets at the Lake Guntersville Resort Lodge located high above the banks of the Tennessee River. There will be a full schedule of Healey activities including lakeside car show, Poker Rally, gymkhana, funkhana, regalia, valve cover races, awards banquet and of course some Friday night fun and laughter. If that?s not enough there will be free time to relax with friends, go antiquing in town, visit local vineyards, explore hiking trails, go caving, golfing or just drive your Austin Healey on the numerous back country roads. Many area attractions are also nearby such as the Huntsville Space Center. We have completed the set-up for on-line registration using this shortcut link: msreg.com/SEClassic . We have incorporated many features and content into the registration website to make it informative and user friendly. A .pdf version of the registration form is available upon request. FYI, the telephone number for room registration at Lake Guntersville State Park is 256-505-6621 and the group code is 5792 for our Austin Healey car show. See links for YouTube videos on the Southeastern Classic: 2017 SEC video: https://youtu.be/mSRfJJs0S-E 2016 SEC video: https://youtu.be/03-9bRQzk9U Please let us know if you have any questions. See you in October! See more and register online here:http://atlantahealeys.org/events/se-classic-xxxi-save-date-oct-12-15-2017/. John Homonek Atlanta AHCA 1959 BN7 1974 Jensen-Healey bn7 at mindspring.com From john at jtkarowe.com.au Sat Sep 16 21:06:40 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 13:06:40 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl References: <2126721182.820502.1505585125548.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2126721182.820502.1505585125548@mail.yahoo.com> <000001d32f36$6e6182a0$4b2487e0$@sbcglobal.net> <923358910.917754.1505602793054@mail.yahoo.com> Give it a tap whilst holding it up. John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, 17 September 2017 9:00 AM To: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl Yes, I am prying it up, but it does not move easily. When I pry it up there is pressure on the wheel cylinder making it difficult to slide out. Heck, it's been in there 61 years. Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Sat, Sep 16, 2017 at 2:54 PM, John Spaur wrote: One of the plates has two lock tabs on the end. I think it is the plate facing down. You need to pry it up and then it will slide off. John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2017 11:05 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle Slave Cyl Is there a way to remove the rear axle brake cylinder without destroying the two plates that lock together to hold it to the backplate? Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Sun Sep 17 00:46:09 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 06:46:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 windscreen stanchion References: , I believe the stamping was used to identify matching upper and lower stanchion parts. They didn't have to match anything else, just to identify mated parts. The upper and lower should have matching stamps. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of george mcharris Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2017 4:02:38 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 windscreen stanchion Adding more to the mix.. My 100 that was built in the fall of '54 has a stamping on the drivers side Y23 and the face is smooth. The pass side is stamped U60 on a somewhat rougher surface. I seriously doubt if these were the originals. Possibly during assembly they just pulled them out of a box at random ? But then why bother to have them stamped at all? George McHarris ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 287 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Steven Kingsbury) 2. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Perry) 3. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (melvin) 4. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Curtis Arndt) 5. Re: 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion (Curtis Arndt) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2017 21:36:56 +0000 (GMT) From: Steven Kingsbury To: "dwflagg at juno.com" Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion I have a very early BN1 and neither one of my stanchions are stamped with any numbers. Unless they're stamped somewhere I've never looked, but I did go over them pretty closely. Car was built in October 1953. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Sep 13, 2017, at 08:51 PM, "dwflagg at juno.com" wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. ? Cheers, ? Doug ____________________________________________________________ "Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now! Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2017 21:09:13 -0400 From: Perry To: healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Just checked an early set, I believe 1953, and neither stanchion has number stamped. But these have been messed with over the years and a chrome shop has been part of the mess. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Steven Kingsbury Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 8:25 PM To: dwflagg at juno.com Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion I have a very early BN1 and neither one of my stanchions are stamped with any numbers. Unless they're stamped somewhere I've never looked, but I did go over them pretty closely. Car was built in October 1953. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Sep 13, 2017, at 08:51 PM, "dwflagg at juno.com" wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. ? Cheers, ? Doug ____________________________________________________________ "Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now! Healthier Patriot http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: > ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 10:32:21 -0400 From: melvin To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Doug, I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is stamped 05. Mel Brunet On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > > Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57?? the other is > stamped? 90 or 06? depending on your view.? I suppose they could also > be rechromed, too. > > Peter C > > > On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: >> To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 >> windscreen it was stated, "I?believe the last numbers stamped in the >> stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". >> My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had >> different numbers and letter stamped.?Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. >> Cheers, >> Doug >> >> >> ____________________________________________________________ >> *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* >> Healthier Patriot >> >http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc >> SponsoredBy Content.Ad >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com >> > > -- > Peter Caldwell > World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI > 2517 Seiferth Rd > Madison WI 53716 > (608)223-9400 > www.nosimport.com [http://www.nosimport.com/image/cache/data/design/slide1-700x300.jpg] World Wide Auto Parts of Madison www.nosimport.com New and remanufactured parts for import vehicles. New or old, foreign or domestic assembly. > http://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts World Wide Import Auto Parts | eBay Stores stores.ebay.com Shop World Wide Import Auto Parts. Find more of what you love on eBay stores! > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: > ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 09:00:20 -0700 From: Curtis Arndt To: melvin Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Message-ID: Doug, These were separate numbers, different for left and right, but the same for the stanchon and windshield post on the corresponding side. Therefore, my left ones were numbered C97 and the right ones C87, both top and bottom. Coincidentally, my body number is 7197. I have never heard that the last two digits matched the last two of the body number. This seems like it is just a coincidence on my car, but I'll check the numbers of the original cars that I have documented. Cheers Curt On Sep 15, 2017 8:45 AM, "melvin" wrote: Doug, I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is stamped 05. Mel Brunet On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57 the other is stamped 90 or 06 depending on your view. I suppose they could also be rechromed, too. Peter C On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen it was stated, "I believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter stamped. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* Healthier Patriot > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com -- Peter Caldwell World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI 2517 Seiferth Rd Madison WI 53716(608)223-9400 <(608)%20223-9400>www.nosimport.comhttp://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: > ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2017 10:18:56 -0700 From: Curtis Arndt To: melvin Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-4 Windscreen Stanchion Message-ID: I'll send photos of my actual numbers and the list of original matching windshield numbers when I return from Tokyo on Friday. On Friday, September 15, 2017, Curtis Arndt wrote: > Doug, > > These were separate numbers, different for left and right, but the same > for the stanchon and windshield post on the corresponding side. Therefore, > my left ones were numbered C97 and the right ones C87, both top and bottom. > > Coincidentally, my body number is 7197. > > I have never heard that the last two digits matched the last two of the > body number. > > This seems like it is just a coincidence on my car, but I'll check the > numbers of the original cars that I have documented. > > Cheers > > Curt > > > On Sep 15, 2017 8:45 AM, "melvin" > wrote: > > > Doug, > > I have one and do not know what car it may have belonged to and it is > stamped 05. > > Mel Brunet > > On 9/14/2017 10:17 AM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > > Doug, I have a pair allegedly NOS. 1 is stamped G57 the other is > stamped 90 or 06 depending on your view. I suppose they could also be > rechromed, too. > > Peter C > > On 9/13/2017 8:15 PM, dwflagg at juno.com > wrote: > > To those of wisdom and knowledge. In a discussion of the 100-4 windscreen > it was stated, "I believe the last numbers stamped in the stanchion , > should be the last 2 digits of the 5 digit body number". My memory, albeit > fading, recalls that the stanchion pair had different numbers and letter > stamped. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks. > > Cheers, > > Doug > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *"Better Than Adderall" Say US College Grads - Try It Now!* > Healthier Patriot > > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/59b9d86ddc372586d0dccst02duc > [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com > > > -- > Peter Caldwell > World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI > 2517 Seiferth Rd > Madison WI 53716(608)223-9400 <(608)%20223-9400>www.nosimport.comhttp://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: > ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 287 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rv9aplane at gmail.com Sun Sep 17 14:28:28 2017 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 13:28:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lockheed brake booster: help please Asking again. Can anyone tell me how to mount the Lockheed brake booster on my 67 BJ8? A picture would be great, especially of the location and method of attaching the bracket. Thanks! Bruce Bakersfield, CA Sent from my iPhone From lgalper1 at cox.net Sun Sep 17 16:01:52 2017 From: lgalper1 at cox.net (Lou G) Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:01:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Forum. Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 289 References: Each of the digests has about 5-10 topics of interesting questions and answers. Between each short topic is about 100+ lines of gibberish code and copies of whole digests, etc Tough to follow some of these discussions. Do we need to pay attention to what we send back to the list ? Lou From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Sep 17 21:10:20 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 11:10:20 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Scissors lift References: <59b7f55e.88926b0a.aba54.61bdSMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com> If you have limited height, probably max jax is the way to go http://www.maxjaxusa.com/ Best, Alan On Tue, Sep 12, 2017 at 10:41 PM, Simon Lachlan < simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote: > My garage/workshop has a very low ceiling and a floor that, I suspect, > covers a multitude of historic sins. So, although I want to put in a lift, > I?m pretty well stuck. I may be able to put in a 4 poster with a beam jack, > but they?re pretty well all 3 phase. > > Has anyone tried one of these? Or something similar? I have located a > 240volt version so am past the 3 phase hurdle. > > I was expecting to have to lay some wood down on either side for clearance > and then just keeping the car, MkII 3000, over the top of it. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks, > > Simon > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Sep 17 21:10:50 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 03:10:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Installing Rear End References: <1911155383.1369396.1505704250856.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I am appealing to the list members that have done a complete restoration.? What is the best way for a single person to install the rear axle?? ?Would it be easier to mount the empty axle casing, then assemble it in the car?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Sun Sep 17 21:46:02 2017 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Rossm) Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 20:46:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Assistence in Portland Hi guys I am on my way home to Calgary from the Monterey Rendezvous and have broken the BN6 tach cable. Will be passing through Portland tomorrow. Anyone in Portland have an extra one they would part with? Or recommend a shop in town that would have the tach cable on the shelf? Thanks Ross Maylor 403-850-5367 Sent from my iPhone From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 17 23:02:21 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 22:02:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Installing Rear End References: <1911155383.1369396.1505704250856.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1911155383.1369396.1505704250856@mail.yahoo.com> I have no choice but to build it in place on my BT7. John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2017 8:11 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Installing Rear End I am appealing to the list members that have done a complete restoration. What is the best way for a single person to install the rear axle? Would it be easier to mount the empty axle casing, then assemble it in the car? Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 17 23:12:46 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 22:12:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Assistence in Portland References: <51713D05-F76C-49FB-A840-2C20B8415BC2@shaw.ca> Almost a no-brainer: http://tomsimport.com/new/index.asp Tom and Skip will do anything they can for you. Bob On 9/17/2017 8:46 PM, Rossm wrote: > Hi guys > I am on my way home to Calgary from the Monterey Rendezvous and have broken the BN6 tach cable. Will be passing through Portland tomorrow. Anyone in Portland have an extra one they would part with? Or recommend a shop in town that would have the tach cable on the shelf? > Thanks > Ross Maylor > 403-850-5367 > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > From per at schoerner.se Mon Sep 18 04:37:11 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 12:37:11 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Forum. Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 289 References: Absolutely! Everytime you reply on something, whatever is on your screen is sent to the list and immediately sent out again. So, as a general rule, at least remove that footing that is added by the list automatically. Then just leave as much as is needed of the original post. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 18 sep. 2017 kl. 00:01 skrev Lou G : > > > Do we need to pay attention to what we send back to the list ? > > > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Sep 18 10:05:23 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 09:05:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Assistence in Portland References: <51713D05-F76C-49FB-A840-2C20B8415BC2@shaw.ca> I might have one. I'm right off I-5 email me, I'll check this afternoon, If not The Monaco's should have one, They are about 10 min off of I5 just south of downtown Portland Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sun, Sep 17, 2017 at 8:46 PM, Rossm wrote: > Hi guys > I am on my way home to Calgary from the Monterey Rendezvous and have > broken the BN6 tach cable. Will be passing through Portland tomorrow. > Anyone in Portland have an extra one they would part with? Or recommend a > shop in town that would have the tach cable on the shelf? > Thanks > Ross Maylor > 403-850-5367 > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Sep 18 12:08:21 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 18:08:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Axle Numbers References: <1454706284.1838168.1505758101556.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Can someone decipher these numbers I found on the axle? Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170918_110537.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 5057920 bytes Desc: not available URL: From per at schoerner.se Mon Sep 18 14:36:22 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 22:36:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Axle Numbers References: <1454706284.1838168.1505758101556.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1454706284.1838168.1505758101556@mail.yahoo.com> I think the 10 and 41 would be the number of gears in the diff. It looks like I can see the letters b and N and the number 1, is it off a BN1? I think the big number on the axle is the serial number. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 18 sep. 2017 kl. 20:08 skrev Michael MacLean : > > Can someone decipher these numbers I found on the axle? > <20170918_110537.jpg> > > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > <20170918_110537.jpg> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Mon Sep 18 15:24:13 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 17:24:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Axle Numbers References: <1454706284.1838168.1505758101556.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1454706284.1838168.1505758101556@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, The 10 over 41 is pinion to ring gear ratio for a 4.1 rear. The rest can only guess. I am sure someone else will clear those up. -----Original Message----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Mon, Sep 18, 2017 5:05 pm Subject: [Healeys] Axle Numbers Can someone decipher these numbers I found on the axle? Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170918_110537.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 5057920 bytes Desc: not available URL: From al at bighealey.org Mon Sep 18 15:54:21 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 17:54:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources References: <042e01d32e9b$b49e05e0$1dda11a0$@bighealey.org> <20170916140351.4599892.91274.9434@gmail.com> Hummm ? good to know. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2017 10:04 AM To: Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources Rocker Arm Specialists Changed Hands a couple of years ago and appears not to be doing the same work. Online at least one person had sent rockers to them just before the ownership change and lost all of his parts. Be very careful. -Roland Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. From: Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, September 15, 2017 11:21 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rocker/shaft sources Rocker Arm Specialists rebuilt mine about 30yrs/150K miles ago. At recent overhaul, my engine rebuilder disassembled, cleaned and inspected it and said it was good to go (and he's a perfectionist). It appears there's been some drama--including a sale of the company to employees and a new name--and they're sometimes hard to get ahold of, but I think it's worth a shot: http://www.rockerarms.com/ Bob On 9/15/2017 8:27 PM, Al Fuller wrote: I have a single rocker spurting oil several inches in the air on my BJ-8. It?s been many years since I replaced a rocker or the whole rocker shaft. Can anyone who has recently used a source for either a whole assembly or just parts comment on their experience? Thanks in advance, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Sep 18 15:56:01 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 17:56:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Axle Numbers References: <1454706284.1838168.1505758101556.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1454706284.1838168.1505758101556@mail.yahoo.com> 4638 is the rear axle serial number. I don't know if the prefix "BN1" (?) is part of the serial number, but there is no such prefix for BJ8 rear axle serial numbers. The 10/41 is the differential ratio (10 pinion teeth to 41 crown wheel teeth. Usually written as ratio 41/10 = 4.1 Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 2:08 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Axle Numbers Can someone decipher these numbers I found on the axle? Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 356025 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fmags at cox.net Mon Sep 18 15:59:45 2017 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 16:59:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey forum Hi Lou, Definetly YES, we need to be careful on how we reply to the list. If you just hit Reply, it has the entire digest contents on it which basically spams the whole digest. It not only has the post you are replying to but every other post also. A better way to post a reply is to click the link at the beginning of the digest that says "To send posts to the Healey digest forum, click this link". That starts a fresh email without spamming the list. Frank Sent from my iPad From jpaynepbr at cox.net Mon Sep 18 18:32:07 2017 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 17:32:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 I'm sending this request out on behalf of George McHarris. George's 100-4 was hit head on this weekend and practically totaled. George is ok other than some bruises and a stiff neck. George has the car down at Atomic Motors in Vegas, and they are set to begin the arduous task of putting the car together again. Unfortunately, many original parts are damaged beyond repair, and I'm sure George will want to replace with NOS items rather than re-pops wherever he can. If you have some NOS parts you are looking to get rid of, please contact me and I'll put you in touch with George and Atomic. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: A118.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1753965 bytes Desc: not available URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Mon Sep 18 19:13:50 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 01:13:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Axle Numbers References: <1454706284.1838168.1505758101556.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1454706284.1838168.1505758101556@mail.yahoo.com>, <07d101d330c8$eb28fa00$c17aee00$@rr.com> A 4.10:1 ratio would be incorrect for a BN1. That ratio was standard on the Hypoid axle cars (BN2-BJ7) but the spiral bevel axles had a standard ratio of 4.125:1. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 9:56:01 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Axle Numbers 4638 is the rear axle serial number. I don't know if the prefix "BN1" (?) is part of the serial number, but there is no such prefix for BJ8 rear axle serial numbers. The 10/41 is the differential ratio (10 pinion teeth to 41 crown wheel teeth. Usually written as ratio 41/10 = 4.1 Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 2:08 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Axle Numbers Can someone decipher these numbers I found on the axle? [cid:image003.jpg at 01D330A7.21223D00] Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android [Image removed by sender.] Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 356025 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Sep 18 19:57:08 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 18:57:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Siting - Wheeler Dealers Just when I'd sworn off the show after they dumped Edd China, I see a trailer for the new season that appears to feature an episode with a BRG BJ8. So torn. Bob From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Sep 18 22:03:22 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 21:03:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Siting - Wheeler Dealers References: <5872374e-8ffc-6a08-211d-5e5a597f3e9d@comcast.net> I know, I saw it too !!! Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 6:57 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Just when I'd sworn off the show after they dumped Edd China, I see a > trailer for the new season that appears to feature an episode with a BRG > BJ8. > > So torn. > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Sep 19 10:43:37 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 17:43:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Control boxes Hi, I don't suppose you remember the generator saga to do with my nephew's BJ8, the one in Paris..... Well, we got everything working with a rebuilt genny and a new control box. That was time ago and we've had no charging issues since. When he bought the car, it came with a very generous "box of bits"* amongst which were 2 apparently new control boxes. The one in the car "looked" new but it was about as much use as a chocolate teapot. So that's gone in the bin. All that's left are two Indian control boxes, one in the car plus one in its box. PLUS, one "NOS" - they said - Lucas control box which looks pretty dodgy to me. That came off French eBay. AND, one that I bought off British eBay...NOS. It says "Made in England" but not Lucas. It is VERY similar to the Lucas version. Same size, same mountings, same weight even. Still boxed. Anyhow, is there any way of bench testing these wretched things? I'm tempted to suggest ditching the spare Indian control box and carrying my "Made in England" version as a spare. If these things are reliable as the water pumps from India...well, it's just trouble in store??? A bench test anyone?? Thanks, Simon *The "box of bits".....boxes of front suspension parts, king pins, oil cooler.....masses of stuff, all new. Plus a load of various additives which had to be thrown away as not accepted by the shipping company. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Tue Sep 19 10:56:45 2017 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 12:56:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Control boxes References: <001501d33166$71805f60$54811e20$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> my experience with those boxes, 2 tried, 1 worked, 1 did not. John On 9/19/2017 12:43 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Hi, > > I don?t suppose you remember the generator saga to do with my nephew?s > BJ8, the one in Paris..... > > Well, we got everything working with a rebuilt genny and a new control > box. That was time ago and we?ve had no charging issues since. > > When he bought the car, it came with a very generous ?box of bits?* > amongst which were 2 apparently new control boxes. The one in the car > ?looked? new but it was about as much use as a chocolate teapot. So > that?s gone in the bin. All that?s left are two Indian control boxes, > one in the car plus one in its box. > > PLUS, one ?NOS? ? they said ? Lucas control box which looks pretty > dodgy to me. That came off French eBay. > > AND, one that I bought off British eBay...NOS. It says ?Made in > England? but not Lucas. It is VERY similar to the Lucas version. Same > size, same mountings, same weight even. Still boxed. > > Anyhow, is there any way of bench testing these wretched things? > > I?m tempted to suggest ditching the spare Indian control box and > carrying my ?Made in England? version as a spare. > > If these things are reliable as the water pumps from India...well, > it?s just trouble in store??? > > A bench test anyone?? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > *The ?box of bits?.....boxes of front suspension parts, king pins, oil > cooler.....masses of stuff, all new. Plus a load of various additives > which had to be thrown away as not accepted by the shipping company. > > > > ____ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Sep 19 11:56:38 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 10:56:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Control boxes References: <001501d33166$71805f60$54811e20$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> There are test procedures in the Bentley manual, but they're done in situ.?? Section NNN for the 3-armature types used in BJ8s.? I think you could bench test using these procedures, but you'd need a variable voltage power supply and possibly a good battery for a load. Bob On 9/19/2017 9:56 AM, John Vrugtman wrote: > my experience with those boxes, 2 tried, 1 worked, 1 did not. > John > > On 9/19/2017 12:43 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: >> >> Hi, >> >> I don?t suppose you remember the generator saga to do with my >> nephew?s BJ8, the one in Paris..... >> >> Well, we got everything working with a rebuilt genny and a new >> control box. That was time ago and we?ve had no charging issues since. >> >> When he bought the car, it came with a very generous ?box of bits?* >> amongst which were 2 apparently new control boxes. The one in the car >> ?looked? new but it was about as much use as a chocolate teapot. So >> that?s gone in the bin. All that?s left are two Indian control boxes, >> one in the car plus one in its box. >> >> PLUS, one ?NOS? ? they said ? Lucas control box which looks pretty >> dodgy to me. That came off French eBay. >> >> AND, one that I bought off British eBay...NOS. It says ?Made in >> England? but not Lucas. It is VERY similar to the Lucas version. Same >> size, same mountings, same weight even. Still boxed. >> >> Anyhow, is there any way of bench testing these wretched things? >> >> I?m tempted to suggest ditching the spare Indian control box and >> carrying my ?Made in England? version as a spare. >> >> If these things are reliable as the water pumps from India...well, >> it?s just trouble in store??? >> >> A bench test anyone?? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Simon >> >> *The ?box of bits?.....boxes of front suspension parts, king pins, >> oil cooler.....masses of stuff, all new. Plus a load of various >> additives which had to be thrown away as not accepted by the shipping >> company. >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Sep 19 12:22:14 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 11:22:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness at the British Invasion of Stowe No Healeys ... strange ... http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2017/09/picture-time-anglo-quirkiness-british-invasion-stowe/ From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Sep 19 13:31:54 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 15:31:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Craigslist Scam Listers Beware of a recent listing on about 7 craigslist sites around the USA for an Austin Healey 3000 MK111 red in color. Car is listed for $4900. Photos are the same as a Healey that was sold on eBay about 6 weeks ago for $41000. My communication with the seller was less than encouraging. Something smells badly in the hinterland! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ruvino at ripnet.com Tue Sep 19 14:49:02 2017 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (ruvino at ripnet.com) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 16:49:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] mystery flap Just back from Stowe in the heat inside and outside of the car. Recently ?insulated? everything under the carpets but my feet were burning after 5 hrs of straight driving. Hunkered down under the steering wheel to see how I could insulate the metal panels around the levers for the clutch and brake only to discover a permanent open flap right next to the cold air vent and the heater vent. What is the function of this flap other than to burn my feet up? Carl BN-4 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 19 17:16:39 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 16:16:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] mystery flap References: If your hot air was coming in there then the fresh air hose may not be installed correctly. Look back behind the carbs and the the condition of the fresh air hose David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: ruvino at ripnet.com Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2017 1:49 PM To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] mystery flap Just back from Stowe in the heat inside and outside of the car. Recently ?insulated? everything under the carpets but my feet were burning after 5 hrs of straight driving. Hunkered down under the steering wheel to see how I could insulate the metal panels around the levers for the clutch and brake only to discover a permanent open flap right next to the cold air vent and the heater vent. What is the function of this flap other than to burn my feet up? Carl BN-4 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Sep 19 18:11:00 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 20:11:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness at the British Invasion of Stowe References: We had more than 25 Healeys at the British Invasion this year, too bad they didn't make the article. It was a great show with fantastic weather. Rick Neville On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 2:22 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > No Healeys ... strange ... > > http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2017/09/picture-time-anglo- > quirkiness-british-invasion-stowe/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue Sep 19 18:15:11 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 17:15:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Axle Numbers References: <1454706284.1838168.1505758101556.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1454706284.1838168.1505758101556@mail.yahoo.com> I do know that the 10 over 41 tells me that it had a 4.10:1 differential when it left the factory. On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 11:08 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Can someone decipher these numbers I found on the axle? > > > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170918_110537.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 5057920 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Sep 19 19:36:57 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 21:36:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Contact for Julian Aubanel Listers Does anyone out there have contact info for Julian Aubanel. I just received the latest Healey Marque Mag and in the reporting of events at the Waco Conclave Meet under Acceleration Run results it shows that Julian was the fastest BJ8 at 81 MPH. Anyway I knew Julian way back when he was launching his own Healey Parts effort and I did not know we were both in Waco for that meet. A missed opportunity. Please let me know if you have an email address. Thanks Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Tue Sep 19 20:54:55 2017 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Rossm) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 19:54:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Assistence in Portland References: <51713D05-F76C-49FB-A840-2C20B8415BC2@shaw.ca> Thank you to all who offered advice in Portland. Tom and Skip came through with the tach cable. Back on the road heading north. The weather has crapped out. The BN6 top keeps rain out like a colander and one of the wipers got tired out and jumped overboard. The demister must have been a forgotten option. Cheers Ross Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 18, 2017, at 9:05 AM, i erbs wrote: > > I might have one. I'm right off I-5 > email me, I'll check this afternoon, If not The Monaco's should have one, They are about 10 min off of I5 just south of downtown Portland > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > >> On Sun, Sep 17, 2017 at 8:46 PM, Rossm wrote: >> Hi guys >> I am on my way home to Calgary from the Monterey Rendezvous and have broken the BN6 tach cable. Will be passing through Portland tomorrow. Anyone in Portland have an extra one they would part with? Or recommend a shop in town that would have the tach cable on the shelf? >> Thanks >> Ross Maylor >> 403-850-5367 >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 19 22:24:22 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 21:24:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness at the British Invasion of Stowe References: Just to be Snarky, there's a Healey in the 5th photo, the one with the Bentley. :-) -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2017 11:22 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness at the British Invasion of Stowe No Healeys ... strange ... http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2017/09/picture-time-anglo-quirkiness-briti sh-invasion-stowe/ _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Sep 19 23:05:22 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 22:05:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 References: <008601d330de$ba01cef0$2e056cd0$@cox.net> There's more on George's Facebook page. I talked with him yesterday. He told me the estimate is around $45K+ at this point, but could go up. May need a whole new frame. He'll have essentially a new car when it's done. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 5:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 I'm sending this request out on behalf of George McHarris. George's 100-4 was hit head on this weekend and practically totaled. George is ok other than some bruises and a stiff neck. George has the car down at Atomic Motors in Vegas, and they are set to begin the arduous task of putting the car together again. Unfortunately, many original parts are damaged beyond repair, and I'm sure George will want to replace with NOS items rather than re-pops wherever he can. If you have some NOS parts you are looking to get rid of, please contact me and I'll put you in touch with George and Atomic. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Sep 19 23:37:21 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2017 22:37:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness at the British Invasion of Stowe References: <008501d331c8$562c9960$0285cc20$@sbcglobal.net> Ah ... missed it.? Must be gettin' old.? Guess the oddities are more interesting. The E-Type had Solex(?) carbs ... Weren't those the worst (and only 2)? Bob On 9/19/2017 9:24 PM, John Spaur wrote: > Just to be Snarky, there's a Healey in the 5th photo, the one with the > Bentley. :-) > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2017 11:22 AM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: > Anglo Quirkiness at the British Invasion of Stowe > > No Healeys ... strange ... > > http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2017/09/picture-time-anglo-quirkiness-briti > sh-invasion-stowe/ > > > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Sep 20 03:50:36 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 05:50:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 References: <008601d330de$ba01cef0$2e056cd0$@cox.net> <089801d331ce$10ceab00$326c0100$@roadrunner.com> Here's an alternate repair method... :) Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/20/2017 01:05 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > There's more on George's Facebook page. I talked with him yesterday. He > told me the estimate is around $45K+ at this point, but could go up. May > need a whole new frame. He'll have essentially a new car when it's done. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas > Payne > Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 5:32 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 > > I'm sending this request out on behalf of George McHarris. George's 100-4 > was hit head on this weekend and practically totaled. George is ok other > than some bruises and a stiff neck. > > George has the car down at Atomic Motors in Vegas, and they are set to begin > the arduous task of putting the car together again. > > Unfortunately, many original parts are damaged beyond repair, and I'm sure > George will want to replace with NOS items rather than re-pops wherever he > can. > > If you have some NOS parts you are looking to get rid of, please contact me > and I'll put you in touch with George and Atomic. > > Jonas Payne > PBR Consulting Services, LLC > 702.882.6711 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_9180.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 156948 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Sep 20 03:52:36 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 05:52:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness at the British Invasion of Stowe References: <008501d331c8$562c9960$0285cc20$@sbcglobal.net> Bob, Probably Stromberg carbs. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/20/2017 01:37 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Ah ... missed it. Must be gettin' old. Guess the oddities are more > interesting. > > The E-Type had Solex(?) carbs ... Weren't those the worst (and only 2)? > > Bob > > > On 9/19/2017 9:24 PM, John Spaur wrote: >> Just to be Snarky, there's a Healey in the 5th photo, the one with the >> Bentley. :-) >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >> Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2017 11:22 AM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: >> Anglo Quirkiness at the British Invasion of Stowe >> >> No Healeys ... strange ... >> >> http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2017/09/picture-time-anglo-quirkiness-briti >> >> sh-invasion-stowe/ >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Wed Sep 20 08:56:59 2017 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Rossm) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 07:56:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp Gentlemen Lots of discussion over the years about reducing the running temp and interior cabin temp. However my question is at the other end of the temp scale. Still making my way home from Monterey and encountering rain and some snow at high altitudes. The temp gauge is dropping down to 120 at speed. Not sure what temp thermostat I am running. The car is a BN6 with the temp sensor in the top of the rad so I would suspect that the thermostat is closed and not circulating through the rad and while the rad is cooling down the engine temp should be higher? Ross Sent from my iPhone From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 20 09:51:54 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 08:51:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 References: <008601d330de$ba01cef0$2e056cd0$@cox.net> <089801d331ce$10ceab00$326c0100$@roadrunner.com> <02c3579b-7d89-7cd6-01c9-e9e8222df76a@earthlink.net> Any idea how this happened?? The usual 'idiot turned left right in front of me?' On 9/20/2017 2:50 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Here's an alternate repair method... :) > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 09/20/2017 01:05 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> There's more on George's Facebook page.? I talked with him >> yesterday.? He >> told me the estimate is around $45K+ at this point, but could go up.? >> May >> need a whole new frame.? He'll have essentially a new car when it's >> done. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas >> Payne >> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 5:32 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 >> >> I'm sending this request out on behalf of George McHarris. George's >> 100-4 >> was hit head on this weekend and practically totaled.? George is ok >> other >> than some bruises and a stiff neck. >> >> George has the car down at Atomic Motors in Vegas, and they are set >> to begin >> the arduous task of putting the car together again. >> >> Unfortunately, many original parts are damaged beyond repair, and I'm >> sure >> George will want to replace with NOS items rather than re-pops >> wherever he >> can. >> >> If you have some NOS parts you are looking to get rid of, please >> contact me >> and I'll put you in touch with George and Atomic. >> >> Jonas Payne >> PBR Consulting Services, LLC >> 702.882.6711 > From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 20 10:27:21 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 09:27:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 References: <008601d330de$ba01cef0$2e056cd0$@cox.net> <089801d331ce$10ceab00$326c0100$@roadrunner.com> <02c3579b-7d89-7cd6-01c9-e9e8222df76a@earthlink.net> <60717dce-d5cd-5c65-3b70-489a0d38de92@comcast.net> No it?s the idiot ran a stop sign coming off the freeway and never hit the brakes. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 8:51 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 Any idea how this happened? The usual 'idiot turned left right in front of me?' On 9/20/2017 2:50 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Here's an alternate repair method... :) > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 09/20/2017 01:05 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> There's more on George's Facebook page. I talked with him yesterday. He >> told me the estimate is around $45K+ at this point, but could go up. May >> need a whole new frame. He'll have essentially a new car when it's done. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas >> Payne >> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 5:32 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 >> >> I'm sending this request out on behalf of George McHarris. George's 100-4 >> was hit head on this weekend and practically totaled. George is ok other >> than some bruises and a stiff neck. >> >> George has the car down at Atomic Motors in Vegas, and they are set to >> begin >> the arduous task of putting the car together again. >> >> Unfortunately, many original parts are damaged beyond repair, and I'm >> sure >> George will want to replace with NOS items rather than re-pops wherever >> he >> can. >> >> If you have some NOS parts you are looking to get rid of, please contact >> me >> and I'll put you in touch with George and Atomic. >> >> Jonas Payne >> PBR Consulting Services, LLC >> 702.882.6711 > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From jpaynepbr at cox.net Wed Sep 20 10:53:36 2017 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 09:53:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 References: <008601d330de$ba01cef0$2e056cd0$@cox.net> <089801d331ce$10ceab00$326c0100$@roadrunner.com> <02c3579b-7d89-7cd6-01c9-e9e8222df76a@earthlink.net> <60717dce-d5cd-5c65-3b70-489a0d38de92@comcast.net> Other guy was coming off of a freeway offramp and ran a red light and hit George head on in the middle of the intersection. George is lucky he wasn't killed. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 8:52 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 Any idea how this happened? The usual 'idiot turned left right in front of me?' On 9/20/2017 2:50 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Here's an alternate repair method... :) > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 09/20/2017 01:05 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: >> There's more on George's Facebook page. I talked with him >> yesterday. He >> told me the estimate is around $45K+ at this point, but could go up. >> May >> need a whole new frame. He'll have essentially a new car when it's >> done. >> >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas >> Payne >> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 5:32 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] George McHarris 100-4 >> >> I'm sending this request out on behalf of George McHarris. George's >> 100-4 >> was hit head on this weekend and practically totaled. George is ok >> other >> than some bruises and a stiff neck. >> >> George has the car down at Atomic Motors in Vegas, and they are set >> to begin >> the arduous task of putting the car together again. >> >> Unfortunately, many original parts are damaged beyond repair, and I'm >> sure >> George will want to replace with NOS items rather than re-pops >> wherever he >> can. >> >> If you have some NOS parts you are looking to get rid of, please >> contact me >> and I'll put you in touch with George and Atomic. >> >> Jonas Payne >> PBR Consulting Services, LLC >> 702.882.6711 > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 20 10:58:55 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 09:58:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.? The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. TIA, Bob * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it From healeyrik at gmail.com Wed Sep 20 13:33:27 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 15:33:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness at the British Invasion of Stowe References: More Healeys at the Stowe Main St. Block Party which is an absolute blast. (My Nasty Boy makes a brief cameo at 1:27): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGjMaUJKIjc And I've attached some pics of the "Best of Show" winner, a beautiful Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 (an original GBM car from new) with a stunning oxblood leather interior. On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 8:11 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > We had more than 25 Healeys at the British Invasion this year, too bad > they didn't make the article. It was a great show with fantastic weather. > > Rick Neville > > On Tue, Sep 19, 2017 at 2:22 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> No Healeys ... strange ... >> >> http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2017/09/picture-time-anglo- >> quirkiness-british-invasion-stowe/ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0679.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2026722 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0705.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2801356 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Sep 20 14:38:32 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:38:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs References: <5f3c2fbe-67be-fa15-fad7-f054948778ea@comcast.net> It is easy to remove the base of the bulb and change over the wires. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-9-2017 om 18:58 schreef Bob Spidell: > I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the > charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my > running/nav/brake lights.? The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, > and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. > ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in > changing to neg. ground).? Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs > anywhere? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or > change to a solid state flasher. > > TIA, > > Bob > > * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a > while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you > shouldn't do it > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Sep 20 14:41:45 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:41:45 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp References: <80E50DF0-7400-4E85-806A-E72DA14D0646@shaw.ca> As the sensor is in the radiator it measures the temp in the top tank after the thermostat. If the thermostat is working correctly the coolant temp in the engine should be around the opening temp of the thermostat. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-9-2017 om 16:56 schreef Rossm: > Gentlemen > Lots of discussion over the years about reducing the running temp and interior cabin temp. However my question is at the other end of the temp scale. Still making my way home from Monterey and encountering rain and some snow at high altitudes. The temp gauge is dropping down to 120 at speed. Not sure what temp thermostat I am running. The car is a BN6 with the temp sensor in the top of the rad so I would suspect that the thermostat is closed and not circulating through the rad and while the rad is cooling down the engine temp should be higher? > Ross > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Wed Sep 20 14:42:57 2017 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 20:42:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 1157 positive ground red stop/tail bulbs References: <1451926503.10487671.1505940177692.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Bob These are available from several sources on uk ebay and elsewhere as BAY15D which AFAIK are equal to 1157. Might be worth googling BAY15D.? Mike Brooks'56 BN2 Scotland Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Sep 20 16:08:39 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:08:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs References: <5f3c2fbe-67be-fa15-fad7-f054948778ea@comcast.net> Litezupp.comMike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.? The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. TIA, Bob * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Sep 20 16:26:08 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 18:26:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe References: Wow?Great to see so many young kids at the show enjoying the car experience. It renews my enthusiasm for the future of old British cars and their caretakers! Aloha Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: HealeyRick Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 5:34 PM To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] LBC,but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe More Healeys at the Stowe Main St. Block Party which is an absolute blast. (My Nasty Boy makes a brief cameo at 1:27):??https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGjMaUJKIjc? And I've attached some pics?of the "Best of Show" winner, a beautiful Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 (an original GBM car from new) with a stunning oxblood leather interior. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Wed Sep 20 17:17:51 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:17:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs References: <5f3c2fbe-67be-fa15-fad7-f054948778ea@comcast.net> The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes which are polarity sensitive and will not function and will possibly be destroyed by reversed polarity. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights. The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground). Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. TIA, Bob * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here? I ran one for a while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 20 17:19:41 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:19:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp References: <80E50DF0-7400-4E85-806A-E72DA14D0646@shaw.ca> On cool days both my BN2 and BJ8 will run at 160F or less on the highway, but display the usual heating behavior in stop-and-go traffic.? Both have tested thermostats.? I have no explanation. Bob On 9/20/2017 7:56 AM, Rossm wrote: > Gentlemen > Lots of discussion over the years about reducing the running temp and interior cabin temp. However my question is at the other end of the temp scale. Still making my way home from Monterey and encountering rain and some snow at high altitudes. The temp gauge is dropping down to 120 at speed. Not sure what temp thermostat I am running. The car is a BN6 with the temp sensor in the top of the rad so I would suspect that the thermostat is closed and not circulating through the rad and while the rad is cooling down the engine temp should be higher? > Ross > > > > From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 20 17:21:55 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:21:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs References: <5f3c2fbe-67be-fa15-fad7-f054948778ea@comcast.net> Thanks, Bill.? Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and it didn't die.? Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;) On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative > in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current > flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That > means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes > which are polarity sensitive and will not function and > will?possibly?be destroyed by reversed polarity. > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs > I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff > indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights. > The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED > 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. > ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground). Anyone > found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to > increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. > > TIA, > > Bob > > * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while > and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Wed Sep 20 17:26:03 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:26:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs References: <5f3c2fbe-67be-fa15-fad7-f054948778ea@comcast.net> , <6a1bca5c-2978-18f6-cf91-8ebb5b7a12f2@comcast.net> Maybe the voltage differences weren't enough to damage it. And you probably wouldn't notice if it just didn't work at times. It would work as long as the current was flowing in the right direction and with enough voltage to turn it on. ________________________________ From: Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 11:21:55 PM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs Thanks, Bill. Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and it didn't die. Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;) On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes which are polarity sensitive and will not function and will possibly be destroyed by reversed polarity. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights. The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground). Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. TIA, Bob * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here? I ran one for a while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 20 17:28:09 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:28:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs References: <5f3c2fbe-67be-fa15-fad7-f054948778ea@comcast.net> <6a1bca5c-2978-18f6-cf91-8ebb5b7a12f2@comcast.net> Likely--they are diodes after all. On 9/20/2017 4:26 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > Maybe the voltage differences weren't enough to damage it. And you > probably wouldn't notice if it just didn't work at times. It would > work as long as the current was flowing in the right direction and > with enough voltage to turn it on. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 11:21:55 PM > *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs > > Thanks, Bill.? Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and > it didn't die.? Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;) > > > On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >> >> The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative >> in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current >> flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That >> means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes >> which are polarity sensitive and will not function and >> will?possibly?be destroyed by reversed polarity. >> >> >> Bill Lawrence >> >> BN1 #554 >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob >> Spidell >> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM >> *To:* Healeys >> *Subject:* [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs >> I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff >> indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights. >> The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED >> 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. >> ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone >> found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to >> increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. >> >> TIA, >> >> Bob >> >> * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while >> and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't >> do it >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 20 17:35:40 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:35:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs References: <5f3c2fbe-67be-fa15-fad7-f054948778ea@comcast.net> <1537973114.535100.1505945319820@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks, Mike.? These look pretty solid; methinks--since these is for nav/stop lights--they should work without resistors? Are these actually brighter than incandescents?? Are the stop indications brighter than normal running lights? Bob On 9/20/2017 3:08 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Litezupp.com > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the > charge/cutoff > indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake > lights. > The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED > 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are > both pos. > ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone > found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware you need to > increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. > > TIA, > > Bob > > * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a > while > and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you > shouldn't do it > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Sep 20 17:56:51 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:56:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs References: <5f3c2fbe-67be-fa15-fad7-f054948778ea@comcast.net> <1537973114.535100.1505945319820@mail.yahoo.com> <13045bb0-0824-413c-cca7-6bd6ace16369@comcast.net> I use them in my Bugeye and my Harley Davidson.?? They are very bright.? Without stepping on the brakes the light is brighter than when you step on the brakes with the old incandescent bulbs.? Just make sure you buy white LED lights.? Red will hardly show up with the red lens.? As far as the Harley.? When I go that one the LED was facing the front of the bike.? They had to make one special that was mounted 180 degrees from normal.? I just installed them and they work fine with no resistors.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:35 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Thanks, Mike.? These look pretty solid; methinks--since these is for nav/stop lights--they should work without resistors?? Are these actually brighter than incandescents?? Are the stop indications brighter than normal running lights? Bob On 9/20/2017 3:08 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Litezupp.com Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.? The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. TIA, Bob * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Sep 20 19:52:46 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 01:52:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rear Slave Cylinder Fitting Kit References: <1016706400.532905.1505958766227.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I am re-installing the new slave cylinders to the rear backplate.? I bought a cylinder fitting kit from Moss with new locking plates.? This kit is supposed to fit a TR6 and my BN2.? Can someone tell me what the smaller "U" shaped locking plate is for?? There was none when I removed the old locking plates.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170920_184640.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4210638 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Sep 21 04:31:32 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 06:31:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Slave Cylinder Fitting Kit References: <1016706400.532905.1505958766227.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1016706400.532905.1505958766227@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, It's for a different application, just discard/recycle it. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/20/2017 09:52 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I am re-installing the new slave cylinders to the rear backplate. I > bought a cylinder fitting kit from Moss with new locking plates. This > kit is supposed to fit a TR6 and my BN2. Can someone tell me what the > smaller "U" shaped locking plate is for? There was none when I removed > the old locking plates. > Mike MacLean > > > > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Thu Sep 21 07:57:44 2017 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Rossm) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 07:57:44 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp Thanks for the replies, will top up the rad and see how it does today. Last day of the trip to get home. 2 degrees C this morning, rain, snow at the higher mountain passes that I will travel over. Sent from my iPhone From gmcharris at hotmail.com Thu Sep 21 08:35:00 2017 From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 14:35:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] [healeys] Cool Running Temperature References: The temp reading on my 100 reads exactly the same....160 on the road...then to 180 (thermostat temp) in traffic etc. My temp probe on the top tank is stood out a little further than normal as I have a 3000 gauge set up that needed an adaptor. Sounds pretty normal in traffic, without much air over the sensor area, it goes to steady state. I have checked temp output with an infrared meter and confirmed that temp at the elbow (thermostat} is indeed 180 when gauge is reading 160. George Mcharris ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 6:53 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 297 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Oudesluys) 2. Re: Cool Running Temp (Oudesluys) 3. 1157 positive ground red stop/tail bulbs (mike brooks) 4. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Michael MacLean) 5. Re: LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe (Perry) 6. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) 7. Re: Cool Running Temp (Bob Spidell) 8. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Bob Spidell) 9. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) 10. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Bob Spidell) 11. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Bob Spidell) 12. Re: LED Running/Stop Bulbs (Michael MacLean) 13. Rear Slave Cylinder Fitting Kit (Michael MacLean) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:38:32 +0200 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs It is easy to remove the base of the bulb and change over the wires. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-9-2017 om 18:58 schreef Bob Spidell: > I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the > charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my > running/nav/brake lights.? The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, > and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. > ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in > changing to neg. ground).? Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs > anywhere? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or > change to a solid state flasher. > > TIA, > > Bob > > * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a > while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you > shouldn't do it > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:41:45 +0200 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp As the sensor is in the radiator it measures the temp in the top tank after the thermostat. If the thermostat is working correctly the coolant temp in the engine should be around the opening temp of the thermostat. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-9-2017 om 16:56 schreef Rossm: > Gentlemen > Lots of discussion over the years about reducing the running temp and interior cabin temp. However my question is at the other end of the temp scale. Still making my way home from Monterey and encountering rain and some snow at high altitudes. The temp gauge is dropping down to 120 at speed. Not sure what temp thermostat I am running. The car is a BN6 with the temp sensor in the top of the rad so I would suspect that the thermostat is closed and not circulating through the rad and while the rad is cooling down the engine temp should be higher? > Ross > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 20:42:57 +0000 (UTC) From: mike brooks To: "bspidell at comcast.net" Cc: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 1157 positive ground red stop/tail bulbs Bob These are available from several sources on uk ebay and elsewhere as BAY15D which AFAIK are equal to 1157. Might be worth googling BAY15D.? Mike Brooks'56 BN2 Scotland Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 22:08:39 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: "bspidell at comcast.net" , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs Litezupp.comMike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.? The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. TIA, Bob * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 18:26:08 -0400 From: Perry To: healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe Wow?Great to see so many young kids at the show enjoying the car experience. It renews my enthusiasm for the future of old British cars and their caretakers! Aloha Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: HealeyRick Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 5:34 PM To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] LBC,but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe More Healeys at the Stowe Main St. Block Party which is an absolute blast. (My Nasty Boy makes a brief cameo at 1:27):??https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGjMaUJKIjc? And I've attached some pics?of the "Best of Show" winner, a beautiful Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 (an original GBM car from new) with a stunning oxblood leather interior. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:17:51 +0000 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: Bob Spidell , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs Message-ID: The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes which are polarity sensitive and will not function and will possibly be destroyed by reversed polarity. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights. The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground). Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. TIA, Bob * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here? I ran one for a while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:19:41 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp On cool days both my BN2 and BJ8 will run at 160F or less on the highway, but display the usual heating behavior in stop-and-go traffic.? Both have tested thermostats.? I have no explanation. Bob On 9/20/2017 7:56 AM, Rossm wrote: > Gentlemen > Lots of discussion over the years about reducing the running temp and interior cabin temp. However my question is at the other end of the temp scale. Still making my way home from Monterey and encountering rain and some snow at high altitudes. The temp gauge is dropping down to 120 at speed. Not sure what temp thermostat I am running. The car is a BN6 with the temp sensor in the top of the rad so I would suspect that the thermostat is closed and not circulating through the rad and while the rad is cooling down the engine temp should be higher? > Ross > > > > ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:21:55 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs Thanks, Bill.? Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and it didn't die.? Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;) On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative > in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current > flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That > means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes > which are polarity sensitive and will not function and > will?possibly?be destroyed by reversed polarity. > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs > I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff > indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights. > The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED > 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. > ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground). Anyone > found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to > increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. > > TIA, > > Bob > > * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while > and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:26:03 +0000 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: Bob Spidell , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs Message-ID: Maybe the voltage differences weren't enough to damage it. And you probably wouldn't notice if it just didn't work at times. It would work as long as the current was flowing in the right direction and with enough voltage to turn it on. ________________________________ From: Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 11:21:55 PM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs Thanks, Bill. Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and it didn't die. Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;) On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes which are polarity sensitive and will not function and will possibly be destroyed by reversed polarity. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights. The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground). Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. TIA, Bob * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here? I ran one for a while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:28:09 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs Likely--they are diodes after all. On 9/20/2017 4:26 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > Maybe the voltage differences weren't enough to damage it. And you > probably wouldn't notice if it just didn't work at times. It would > work as long as the current was flowing in the right direction and > with enough voltage to turn it on. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 11:21:55 PM > *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs > > Thanks, Bill.? Makes sense, but I ran with the LED for many hours and > it didn't die.? Maybe I'm more balanced than I thought ;) > > > On 9/20/2017 4:17 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >> >> The charge indicator light works by balancing two hot side (negative >> in your case) inputs. If one side goes out of balance the current >> flows from the hot side to the low side and lights the lamp. That >> means that the polarity changes as conditions change. LEDs are diodes >> which are polarity sensitive and will not function and >> will?possibly?be destroyed by reversed polarity. >> >> >> Bill Lawrence >> >> BN1 #554 >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob >> Spidell >> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:58:55 PM >> *To:* Healeys >> *Subject:* [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs >> I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff >> indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights. >> The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED >> 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. >> ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone >> found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to >> increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. >> >> TIA, >> >> Bob >> >> * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while >> and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't >> do it >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 16:35:40 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs Thanks, Mike.? These look pretty solid; methinks--since these is for nav/stop lights--they should work without resistors? Are these actually brighter than incandescents?? Are the stop indications brighter than normal running lights? Bob On 9/20/2017 3:08 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Litezupp.com > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the > charge/cutoff > indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake > lights. > The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED > 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are > both pos. > ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone > found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere? I'm aware you need to > increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. > > TIA, > > Bob > > * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a > while > and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you > shouldn't do it > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2017 23:56:51 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Bob Spidell , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] LED Running/Stop Bulbs I use them in my Bugeye and my Harley Davidson.?? They are very bright.? Without stepping on the brakes the light is brighter than when you step on the brakes with the old incandescent bulbs.? Just make sure you buy white LED lights.? Red will hardly show up with the red lens.? As far as the Harley.? When I go that one the LED was facing the front of the bike.? They had to make one special that was mounted 180 degrees from normal.? I just installed them and they work fine with no resistors.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, September 20, 2017 4:35 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Thanks, Mike.? These look pretty solid; methinks--since these is for nav/stop lights--they should work without resistors?? Are these actually brighter than incandescents?? Are the stop indications brighter than normal running lights? Bob On 9/20/2017 3:08 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Litezupp.com Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Sep 20, 2017 at 12:13 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I've got LED backlights in my instruments--except for the charge/cutoff indicator*--and would like to put them in my running/nav/brake lights.? The correct incandescent bulb is an 1157, and I've found lots of LED 1157s on the 'net, but they're all neg. ground and my cars are both pos. ground (and I'm not interested in changing to neg. ground).? Anyone found pos. ground 1157 red bulbs anywhere??? I'm aware you need to increase the load with resistors, or change to a solid state flasher. TIA, Bob * anyone know why you shouldn't use an LED here?? I ran one for a while and noticed no issues, but Moss and others are adamant you shouldn't do it | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 01:52:46 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Rear Slave Cylinder Fitting Kit I am re-installing the new slave cylinders to the rear backplate.? I bought a cylinder fitting kit from Moss with new locking plates.? This kit is supposed to fit a TR6 and my BN2.? Can someone tell me what the smaller "U" shaped locking plate is for?? There was none when I removed the old locking plates.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170920_184640.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4210638 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 297 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Thu Sep 21 08:56:10 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 07:56:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp References: <80E50DF0-7400-4E85-806A-E72DA14D0646@shaw.ca> uovNdXQwyuaAMuovOdAeZ1 Yes and a good confirmation is to use one of those temp. guns on the cylinder head and compare to the rad top temp; best to do this test on the roadside after coasting to a stop. rg -----Original Message----- From: Oudesluys Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 1:41 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp As the sensor is in the radiator it measures the temp in the top tank after the thermostat. If the thermostat is working correctly the coolant temp in the engine should be around the opening temp of the thermostat. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-9-2017 om 16:56 schreef Rossm: > Gentlemen > Lots of discussion over the years about reducing the running temp and > interior cabin temp. However my question is at the other end of the temp > scale. Still making my way home from Monterey and encountering rain and > some snow at high altitudes. The temp gauge is dropping down to 120 at > speed. Not sure what temp thermostat I am running. The car is a BN6 with > the temp sensor in the top of the rad so I would suspect that the > thermostat is closed and not circulating through the rad and while the rad > is cooling down the engine temp should be higher? > Ross > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Sep 21 10:08:22 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 16:08:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Re-installing Slave Cylinder References: <1043192290.871415.1506010102660.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Am I doing something wrong here?? I remember the two plates being easier to remove with the emergency brake lever in place.? As you can see from the picture there is a bit of interference with the brake lever trying to install the bottom plate.? Should I just give it a good whack to get it in place???Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170921_090237.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4557445 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rjhco at att.net Thu Sep 21 12:47:24 2017 From: rjhco at att.net (Richard J. Hockert) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 13:47:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Mark I Rally Full chat at Goodwood!!! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 13829 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Sep 21 12:52:51 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 14:52:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp References: Ross Unless you have an overflow catch bottle on the radiator there is no sense filling the radiator to the top of the neck (?will top up the rad?). The expanding coolant will push the first inch or so out the rad overflow when the temp is only 190F or so. Might as well start out with the coolant level at one inch below the rubber sealing surface of the rad cap when coolant temp is cold. Aloha Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Rossm Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2017 2:10 PM To: Forum Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Cool Running Temp Thanks for the replies, will top up the rad and see how it does today. Last day of the trip to get home. 2 degrees C this morning, rain, snow at the higher mountain passes that I will travel over. Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Sep 21 14:54:54 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 13:54:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Re-installing Slave Cylinder References: <1043192290.871415.1506010102660.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1043192290.871415.1506010102660@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, The E-brake lever should come off before the cylinder and back on after. Bob On 9/21/2017 9:08 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Am I doing something wrong here?? I remember the two plates being > easier to remove with the emergency brake lever in place.? As you can > see from the picture there is a bit of interference with the brake > lever trying to install the bottom plate.? Should I just give it a > good whack to get it in place? > Mike MacLean > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Thu Sep 21 15:01:21 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 17:01:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Re-installing Slave Cylinder Read this http://www.mossmotoring.com/pint-size-project-rear-brakes-reassembly/ Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 12:08:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Re-installing Slave Cylinder Am I doing something wrong here? I remember the two plates being easier to remove with the emergency brake lever in place. As you can see from the picture there is a bit of interference with the brake lever trying to install the bottom plate. Should I just give it a good whack to get it in place? Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Sep 21 15:36:59 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 21:36:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Re-installing Slave Cylinder References: <1043192290.871415.1506010102660.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1043192290.871415.1506010102660@mail.yahoo.com> <0ab457b5-7f43-dbd2-3193-2e02baa2261d@comcast.net> Yes, I kind of figured it out after seeing the taper in the cylinder body where the brake lever pegs slip in place.? Now the problem is with one of the adjusters for the brake shoes is froze solid.? Been soaking it in Busty siince yesterday and still froze solid.Mike MacLean. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Thu, Sep 21, 2017 at 2:25 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From rantal243 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 21 17:31:37 2017 From: rantal243 at yahoo.com (Richard Antal) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2017 23:31:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <1089855758.180.1506036697823.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Greeting Healeyphiles,? ? ?I encountered a mishap that begs explanation. On a recent road trip in my BJ8, I was cruising along at 70mph on I 84 in Connecticut, when the engine suddenly died. I cruised over to the breaddown lane and proceeded to replace the rotor with the newer reliable one. The car started, I went two miles and it died again. I replaced the coil with a Lucas sport coil. The car started and died again in 1/2 mile. I replaced the distributor cap and wires. The car would not start. Along came Dean Cusano, president of Motorcars Inc. who informed me that his garage which specialized in Jaguars was at my disposal one mile away. AAA took me there. Parenthetically, I add that I could always hear my loud electric fuel pump clacking away. On arrival at his garage, I detached the fuel line from the carbs, activated the fuel pump and a lusty flow of fuel issued forth. Dean suggested I change my fuel filters, both one just after the pump and a second in the engine compartment. The car started and I drove fifty feet into his garage where I proceeded to change the filters which he kindly gave me at no charge. The car started and I completed the 3000 mile trip with no problems. The old filters probably had 15,000 miles of use but appeared clean. How could fouled fuel filters possibly have caused the problems I had? If the filters were in fact the cause, how often should they be changed and would it not make more sense to have one filter in the engine compartment where it could easily be changed? Thanks for your thoughts.rich antal'65 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Thu Sep 21 18:46:05 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 10:46:05 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Re-installing Slave Cylinder References: <1043192290.871415.1506010102660.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1043192290.871415.1506010102660@mail.yahoo.com> <0ab457b5-7f43-dbd2-3193-2e02baa2261d@comcast.net> <707108224.121095.1506029819754@mail.yahoo.com> ...if you get stuck for snail adjusters, you can get replacement kits for Series Landrovers that are the same. I've used them on a couple of cars. Cheers Peter From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 7:36 AM To: bspidell at comcast.net ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Re-installing Slave Cylinder Yes, I kind of figured it out after seeing the taper in the cylinder body where the brake lever pegs slip in place. Now the problem is with one of the adjusters for the brake shoes is froze solid. Been soaking it in Busty siince yesterday and still froze solid. Mike MacLean. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Sep 22 01:16:33 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 09:16:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <1089855758.180.1506036697823.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1089855758.180.1506036697823@mail.yahoo.com> Sounds a bit like a blocked fuel tank vent/fuel cap. However, fuel filters of low quality can get blocked rather quickly, of course also dependent on the condition of the fuel tank and the fuel. Always get fuel from a supplier with a large turnover. The best fuel filters are usually the cheap ones from transparant plastic. Avoid the fancy glass tube with chromed end ones, they often leak. One filter between pump and carbs should be plenty. More filters only cause more resistance and thus lower fuel pressure/delivery. There is no way of telling how long a fuel filter lasts before it gets blocked. Just make sure you carry a spare one. Kees Oudesluijs Op 22-9-2017 om 1:31 schreef Richard Antal: > Greeting Healeyphiles, > ? ? ?I encountered a mishap that begs explanation. On a recent road > trip in my BJ8, I was cruising along at 70mph on I 84 in Connecticut, > when the engine suddenly died. I cruised over to the breaddown lane > and proceeded to replace the rotor with the newer reliable one. The > car started, I went two miles and it died again. I replaced the coil > with a Lucas sport coil. The car started and died again in 1/2 mile. I > replaced the distributor cap and wires. The car would not start. Along > came Dean Cusano, president of Motorcars Inc. who informed me that his > garage which specialized in Jaguars was at my disposal one mile away. > AAA took me there. Parenthetically, I add that I could always hear my > loud electric fuel pump clacking away. On arrival at his garage, I > detached the fuel line from the carbs, activated the fuel pump and a > lusty flow of fuel issued forth. Dean suggested I change my fuel > filters, both one just after the pump and a second in the engine > compartment. The car started and I drove fifty feet into his garage > where I proceeded to change the filters which he kindly gave me at no > charge. The car started and I completed the 3000 mile trip with no > problems. The old filters probably had 15,000 miles of use but > appeared clean. How could fouled fuel filters possibly have caused the > problems I had? If the filters were in fact the cause, how often > should they be changed and would it not make more sense to have one > filter in the engine compartment where it could easily be changed? > Thanks for your thoughts. > rich antal > '65 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Sep 22 06:21:16 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 8:21:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery Have you ever replaced the "in-tank" fuel filter? If not this could be your problem. The same thing you described happened to me years ago. It drove me crazy until I had the tank opened. The in-tank filter was chocked full of "stuff". I pulled it, sealed the tank, added an in-line filter and never had the problem again. tom ---- Oudesluys wrote: ============= Sounds a bit like a blocked fuel tank vent/fuel cap. However, fuel filters of low quality can get blocked rather quickly, of course also dependent on the condition of the fuel tank and the fuel. Always get fuel from a supplier with a large turnover. The best fuel filters are usually the cheap ones from transparant plastic. Avoid the fancy glass tube with chromed end ones, they often leak. One filter between pump and carbs should be plenty. More filters only cause more resistance and thus lower fuel pressure/delivery. There is no way of telling how long a fuel filter lasts before it gets blocked. Just make sure you carry a spare one. Kees Oudesluijs Op 22-9-2017 om 1:31 schreef Richard Antal: > Greeting Healeyphiles, > ? ? ?I encountered a mishap that begs explanation. On a recent road > trip in my BJ8, I was cruising along at 70mph on I 84 in Connecticut, > when the engine suddenly died. I cruised over to the breaddown lane > and proceeded to replace the rotor with the newer reliable one. The > car started, I went two miles and it died again. I replaced the coil > with a Lucas sport coil. The car started and died again in 1/2 mile. I > replaced the distributor cap and wires. The car would not start. Along > came Dean Cusano, president of Motorcars Inc. who informed me that his > garage which specialized in Jaguars was at my disposal one mile away. > AAA took me there. Parenthetically, I add that I could always hear my > loud electric fuel pump clacking away. On arrival at his garage, I > detached the fuel line from the carbs, activated the fuel pump and a > lusty flow of fuel issued forth. Dean suggested I change my fuel > filters, both one just after the pump and a second in the engine > compartment. The car started and I drove fifty feet into his garage > where I proceeded to change the filters which he kindly gave me at no > charge. The car started and I completed the 3000 mile trip with no > problems. The old filters probably had 15,000 miles of use but > appeared clean. How could fouled fuel filters possibly have caused the > problems I had? If the filters were in fact the cause, how often > should they be changed and would it not make more sense to have one > filter in the engine compartment where it could easily be changed? > Thanks for your thoughts. > rich antal > '65 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Fri Sep 22 07:18:32 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 09:18:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <7012fa10-b311-9bad-f8b5-3c0df80f263c@chello.nl> <20170922082116.MMC62.5332.root@pamxwww08-z01> Tom, How do you get to the filter inside the tank? When I removed the sending unit from my tank, all I could see were the baffles. I recently had to blow my lines from the fuel pump to the tank with air to clear the filter. It has worked for now, but I am sure it is just time before it clogs again. Thanks in advance. Bob -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 8:21 AM To: Oudesluys ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery Have you ever replaced the "in-tank" fuel filter? If not this could be your problem. The same thing you described happened to me years ago. It drove me crazy until I had the tank opened. The in-tank filter was chocked full of "stuff". I pulled it, sealed the tank, added an in-line filter and never had the problem again. tom ---- Oudesluys wrote: ============= Sounds a bit like a blocked fuel tank vent/fuel cap. However, fuel filters of low quality can get blocked rather quickly, of course also dependent on the condition of the fuel tank and the fuel. Always get fuel from a supplier with a large turnover. The best fuel filters are usually the cheap ones from transparant plastic. Avoid the fancy glass tube with chromed end ones, they often leak. One filter between pump and carbs should be plenty. More filters only cause more resistance and thus lower fuel pressure/delivery. There is no way of telling how long a fuel filter lasts before it gets blocked. Just make sure you carry a spare one. Kees Oudesluijs Op 22-9-2017 om 1:31 schreef Richard Antal: > Greeting Healeyphiles, > I encountered a mishap that begs explanation. On a recent road > trip in my BJ8, I was cruising along at 70mph on I 84 in Connecticut, > when the engine suddenly died. I cruised over to the breaddown lane > and proceeded to replace the rotor with the newer reliable one. The > car started, I went two miles and it died again. I replaced the coil > with a Lucas sport coil. The car started and died again in 1/2 mile. I > replaced the distributor cap and wires. The car would not start. Along > came Dean Cusano, president of Motorcars Inc. who informed me that his > garage which specialized in Jaguars was at my disposal one mile away. > AAA took me there. Parenthetically, I add that I could always hear my > loud electric fuel pump clacking away. On arrival at his garage, I > detached the fuel line from the carbs, activated the fuel pump and a > lusty flow of fuel issued forth. Dean suggested I change my fuel > filters, both one just after the pump and a second in the engine > compartment. The car started and I drove fifty feet into his garage > where I proceeded to change the filters which he kindly gave me at no > charge. The car started and I completed the 3000 mile trip with no > problems. The old filters probably had 15,000 miles of use but > appeared clean. How could fouled fuel filters possibly have caused the > problems I had? If the filters were in fact the cause, how often > should they be changed and would it not make more sense to have one > filter in the engine compartment where it could easily be changed? > Thanks for your thoughts. > rich antal > '65 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From drmasucci at comcast.net Fri Sep 22 08:19:21 2017 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 10:19:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair Hi All, I am presently working on restoring my shrouds. I have a question on the front shroud. I?ve attached a photo that shows the bonnet opening right at the front. Along the perimeter of the opening are three mounting holes where the front of the shroud is bolted to the sub-structure. I?ve identified the holes with red ovals, and they are labelled as ?A?. Over the years those mounting holes enlarged to the point where the original screw heads wore themselves right through the aluminum. 20 years ago I replaced the original screws with larger headed screws, and even made dished washers out of aluminum sheet to help secure the shroud. To restore it I plan to TIG weld in new metal and then drill new holes. The problem is that I don?t have any idea of how big the holes should be. I also don?t know what the correct screw type might be. Were they countersunk heads, Philips, pozidrive, or flat? So if any of you guys can tell me the proper hole size and screw type I?d very much appreciated it. Also you can see an additional hole far to the left that I?ve labeled ?B?. There is a similar one on the other side. Is it supposed to be there as a drain? Thanks in advance for any help. I?m starting to see the light at the end of this restoration tunnel. :-) Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170909_155735_1-1meg.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1055339 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170909_155720_1-1meg.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1157626 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Fri Sep 22 09:35:11 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 11:35:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair My BN7 has flat head phillips in the worn hole locations. The "drain" holes are unoccupied but can't confirm original intention. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: David Masucci To: Ahealey help Sent: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 10:19:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair Hi All,I am presently working on restoring my shrouds. I have a question on the front shroud. I?ve attached a photo that shows the bonnet opening right at the front. Along the perimeter of the opening are three mounting holes where the front of the shroud is bolted to the sub-structure. I?ve identified the holes with red ovals, and they are labelled as ?A?. Over the years those mounting holes enlarged to the point where the original screw heads wore themselves right through the aluminum. 20 years ago I replaced the original screws with larger headed screws, and even made dished washers out of aluminum sheet to help secure the shroud. To restore it I plan to TIG weld in new metal and then drill new holes. The problem is that I don?t have any idea of how big the holes should be. I also don?t know what the correct screw type might be. Were they countersunk heads, Philips, pozidrive, or flat? So if any of you guys can tell me the proper hole size and screw type I?d very much appreciated it. Also you can see an additional hole far to the left that I?ve labeled ?B?. There is a similar one on the other side. Is it supposed to be there as a drain? Thanks in advance for any help. I?m starting to see the light at the end of this restoration tunnel. :-)Dave64 BJ872 XJ6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Sep 22 09:39:19 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 11:39:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery the tank has to be cut open---and done by someone who understands the danger in doing that. ---- Bob Simmen wrote: ============= Tom, How do you get to the filter inside the tank? When I removed the sending unit from my tank, all I could see were the baffles. I recently had to blow my lines from the fuel pump to the tank with air to clear the filter. It has worked for now, but I am sure it is just time before it clogs again. Thanks in advance. Bob -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 8:21 AM To: Oudesluys ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery Have you ever replaced the "in-tank" fuel filter? If not this could be your problem. The same thing you described happened to me years ago. It drove me crazy until I had the tank opened. The in-tank filter was chocked full of "stuff". I pulled it, sealed the tank, added an in-line filter and never had the problem again. tom ---- Oudesluys wrote: From RFBegani at speakeasy.net Fri Sep 22 12:10:24 2017 From: RFBegani at speakeasy.net (Robert F. Begani) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 14:10:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <1089855758.180.1506036697823.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1089855758.180.1506036697823@mail.yahoo.com> <7012fa10-b311-9bad-f8b5-3c0df80f263c@chello.nl> Also, check the bronze filters inside the inlet to the carbs float bowl. They often become clogged and restrict the flow of fuel. Bob Begani BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 3:17 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery Sounds a bit like a blocked fuel tank vent/fuel cap. However, fuel filters of low quality can get blocked rather quickly, of course also dependent on the condition of the fuel tank and the fuel. Always get fuel from a supplier with a large turnover. The best fuel filters are usually the cheap ones from transparant plastic. Avoid the fancy glass tube with chromed end ones, they often leak. One filter between pump and carbs should be plenty. More filters only cause more resistance and thus lower fuel pressure/delivery. There is no way of telling how long a fuel filter lasts before it gets blocked. Just make sure you carry a spare one. Kees Oudesluijs Op 22-9-2017 om 1:31 schreef Richard Antal: Greeting Healeyphiles, I encountered a mishap that begs explanation. On a recent road trip in my BJ8, I was cruising along at 70mph on I 84 in Connecticut, when the engine suddenly died. I cruised over to the breaddown lane and proceeded to replace the rotor with the newer reliable one. The car started, I went two miles and it died again. I replaced the coil with a Lucas sport coil. The car started and died again in 1/2 mile. I replaced the distributor cap and wires. The car would not start. Along came Dean Cusano, president of Motorcars Inc. who informed me that his garage which specialized in Jaguars was at my disposal one mile away. AAA took me there. Parenthetically, I add that I could always hear my loud electric fuel pump clacking away. On arrival at his garage, I detached the fuel line from the carbs, activated the fuel pump and a lusty flow of fuel issued forth. Dean suggested I change my fuel filters, both one just after the pump and a second in the engine compartment. The car started and I drove fifty feet into his garage where I proceeded to change the filters which he kindly gave me at no charge. The car started and I completed the 3000 mile trip with no problems. The old filters probably had 15,000 miles of use but appeared clean. How could fouled fuel filters possibly have caused the problems I had? If the filters were in fact the cause, how often should they be changed and would it not make more sense to have one filter in the engine compartment where it could easily be changed? Thanks for your thoughts. rich antal '65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Fri Sep 22 17:38:52 2017 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 23:38:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair References: <8389C08E-2A56-45B3-B776-B30990832EFB@comcast.net> From: David Masucci To: Ahealey help Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 7:57 AM Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair Hi All, I am presently working on restoring my shrouds. My '59 bn-4 only has the "A-holes" (heh)No B's Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Fri Sep 22 17:53:31 2017 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 17:53:31 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Calgary to Monterey Return - The details! Hi all, Just back from the round trip to Monterey for the International Healey Week. Many thanks to the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club who hosted a great event. It was well worth the drive. Many highlights of the event included meeting many of the people on this list, the Rally out to Big Sur, the car show in Pacific Grove and the laps of Laguna Seca. The 1958 Pacific Green BN6 performed well and didn?t let me down. The only casualties were the tach cable which broke two days into the trip and not replaced until two days left, the rear exhaust pipe bracket vibrated itself apart, (bailing wire fix and it was already near failure and I forgot that last minute repair), the driver side wiper arm jumped ship in a torrential downpour at dusk, and a pressure wave from a semi truck blew out the cheap aftermarket plexi glass from the passenger side screen during yesterday?s snowstorm. Here are the stats from the Garmin GPS, Metric Version Distance = 5737 km Fuel = 842.3 litres Avg. = 14.7 litres\100km Oil used = 3.8 litres Avg. = 1 L/1516 km Transmission Fluid = 0 Rad Fluid added = ? litre Garmin Top Speed = 151 km/hr Avg. Moving Speed = 67.3 km/h Max Elevation = 2933 meters Min Elevation = 2 meters Max Temp = 35 C Min Temp = 0 C Statute Version Distance = 3565 miles Fuel = 222.5 US gallons Avg. = 16 mpg Oil used = 4 quarts Avg. = 1 qt./891 miles Transmission Fluid = 0 Rad Fluid added = ? qt. Garmin Top Speed = 94 mph (the speedo read 105 very briefly) Avg. Moving Speed = 41.8 mph Max Elevation = 9624 feet (Sonora Pass) Min Elevation = 2 meters Max Temp = 95 F Min Temp = 32 F Cheers Ross Maylor -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0568.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2046541 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Fri Sep 22 18:36:48 2017 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 20:36:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <1089855758.180.1506036697823.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1089855758.180.1506036697823@mail.yahoo.com> I rolled to the side of I89 in NH a couple of months ago. I replaced the rotor, the car started up and ran fine until it rolled to the shoulder of a little country road a couple of weeks later. In the quiet of the country, I could hear a little bit of snapping, and I could see a small electric arc inside one of the electrical connectors to the coil. After 50+ years of owners popping distributor caps off and wiggling all the wires above, one of the connections failed from fatigue. The wire was close enough to the connector that it usually worked, except when it didn't. I suggest firing up your engine and giving all the connectors a little wiggle, just to make sure something isn't loose or fatigued. If you hear the engine miss, you may have found the culprit. - tom On Thu, Sep 21, 2017 at 7:31 PM, Richard Antal wrote: > Greeting Healeyphiles, > I encountered a mishap that begs explanation. On a recent road trip > in my BJ8, I was cruising along at 70mph on I 84 in Connecticut, when the > engine suddenly died. I cruised over to the breaddown lane and proceeded to > replace the rotor with the newer reliable one. The car started, I went two > miles and it died again. I replaced the coil with a Lucas sport coil. The > car started and died again in 1/2 mile. I replaced the distributor cap and > wires. The car would not start. Along came Dean Cusano, president of > Motorcars Inc. who informed me that his garage which specialized in Jaguars > was at my disposal one mile away. AAA took me there. Parenthetically, I add > that I could always hear my loud electric fuel pump clacking away. On > arrival at his garage, I detached the fuel line from the carbs, activated > the fuel pump and a lusty flow of fuel issued forth. Dean suggested I > change my fuel filters, both one just after the pump and a second in the > engine compartment. The car started and I drove fifty feet into his garage > where I proceeded to change the filters which he kindly gave me at no > charge. The car started and I completed the 3000 mile trip with no > problems. The old filters probably had 15,000 miles of use but appeared > clean. How could fouled fuel filters possibly have caused the problems I > had? If the filters were in fact the cause, how often should they be > changed and would it not make more sense to have one filter in the engine > compartment where it could easily be changed? Thanks for your thoughts. > rich antal > '65 BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Sep 22 22:47:42 2017 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 04:47:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Calgary to Monterey Return - The details! References: <002701d333fe$03d3d380$0b7b7a80$@shaw.ca> As the president of the GGAHC I appreciate your coming from so far and your kind remarks. My team worked hard for three years to make the event memorable. Rich Kahn ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Ross Maylor Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 4:53 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Calgary to Monterey Return - The details! Hi all, Just back from the round trip to Monterey for the International Healey Week. Many thanks to the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club who hosted a great event. It was well worth the drive. Many highlights of the event included meeting many of the people on this list, the Rally out to Big Sur, the car show in Pacific Grove and the laps of Laguna Seca. The 1958 Pacific Green BN6 performed well and didn?t let me down. The only casualties were the tach cable which broke two days into the trip and not replaced until two days left, the rear exhaust pipe bracket vibrated itself apart, (bailing wire fix and it was already near failure and I forgot that last minute repair), the driver side wiper arm jumped ship in a torrential downpour at dusk, and a pressure wave from a semi truck blew out the cheap aftermarket plexi glass from the passenger side screen during yesterday?s snowstorm. Here are the stats from the Garmin GPS, Metric Version Distance = 5737 km Fuel = 842.3 litres Avg. = 14.7 litres\100km Oil used = 3.8 litres Avg. = 1 L/1516 km Transmission Fluid = 0 Rad Fluid added = ? litre Garmin Top Speed = 151 km/hr Avg. Moving Speed = 67.3 km/h Max Elevation = 2933 meters Min Elevation = 2 meters Max Temp = 35 C Min Temp = 0 C Statute Version Distance = 3565 miles Fuel = 222.5 US gallons Avg. = 16 mpg Oil used = 4 quarts Avg. = 1 qt./891 miles Transmission Fluid = 0 Rad Fluid added = ? qt. Garmin Top Speed = 94 mph (the speedo read 105 very briefly) Avg. Moving Speed = 41.8 mph Max Elevation = 9624 feet (Sonora Pass) Min Elevation = 2 meters Max Temp = 95 F Min Temp = 32 F Cheers Ross Maylor -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Sep 23 01:02:13 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 07:02:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Diff Pumpkin Seal References: <1827381413.708567.1506150133397.ref@mail.yahoo.com> What is the conventional wisdom on what type of sealant to use on the gasket for the pumpkin to axle housing?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com Sat Sep 23 06:33:45 2017 From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 08:33:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fiberglass Body Parts My racecar was hit at Lime Rock this Labor Day (assaulted by a Ferrari 250SW), and I'm looking for a replacement fiberglass front shroud or patches for the front. I've got extra fiberglass fenders: does anyone have a fiberglass front shroud or pieces of one I can use for patching the front? thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jjkbj7 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 23 06:46:46 2017 From: jjkbj7 at yahoo.com (John Kuzman) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 12:46:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Diff Pumpkin Seal References: <1827381413.708567.1506150133397.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1827381413.708567.1506150133397@mail.yahoo.com> I used Hylomar. No leaks yet. On Saturday, September 23, 2017 3:49 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: What is the conventional wisdom on what type of sealant to use on the gasket for the pumpkin to axle housing?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From agrossman at pacific.net Sat Sep 23 08:12:35 2017 From: agrossman at pacific.net (agrossman at pacific.net) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 07:12:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Calgary to Monterey Return - The details! References: <002701d333fe$03d3d380$0b7b7a80$@shaw.ca> My hat is off to you both!!!! Cheers, Alan > As the president of the GGAHC I appreciate your coming from so far and > your kind remarks. My team worked hard for three years to make the event > memorable. > > Rich Kahn > > > ________________________________ > From: Healeys on behalf of Ross Maylor > > Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 4:53 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Calgary to Monterey Return - The details! > > > Hi all, > > Just back from the round trip to Monterey for the International Healey > Week. > > Many thanks to the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club who hosted a great > event. It was well worth the drive. > > Many highlights of the event included meeting many of the people on this > list, the Rally out to Big Sur, the car show in Pacific Grove and the laps > of Laguna Seca. > > > > The 1958 Pacific Green BN6 performed well and didn?t let me down. > > The only casualties were the tach cable which broke two days into the trip > and not replaced until two days left, the rear exhaust pipe bracket > vibrated itself apart, (bailing wire fix and it was already near failure > and I forgot that last minute repair), the driver side wiper arm jumped > ship in a torrential downpour at dusk, and a pressure wave from a semi > truck blew out the cheap aftermarket plexi glass from the passenger side > screen during yesterday?s snowstorm. > > > > Here are the stats from the Garmin GPS, > > > > Metric Version > > Distance = 5737 km > > Fuel = 842.3 litres > > Avg. = 14.7 litres\100km > > Oil used = 3.8 litres > > Avg. = 1 L/1516 km > > Transmission Fluid = 0 > > Rad Fluid added = ? litre > > Garmin Top Speed = 151 km/hr > > Avg. Moving Speed = 67.3 km/h > > Max Elevation = 2933 meters > > Min Elevation = 2 meters > > Max Temp = 35 C > > Min Temp = 0 C > > > > Statute Version > > Distance = 3565 miles > > Fuel = 222.5 US gallons > > Avg. = 16 mpg > > Oil used = 4 quarts > > Avg. = 1 qt./891 miles > > Transmission Fluid = 0 > > Rad Fluid added = ? qt. > > Garmin Top Speed = 94 mph (the speedo read 105 very briefly) > > Avg. Moving Speed = 41.8 mph > > Max Elevation = 9624 feet (Sonora Pass) > > Min Elevation = 2 meters > > Max Temp = 95 F > > Min Temp = 32 F > > > > Cheers > > Ross Maylor > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net > > From warthodson at aol.com Sat Sep 23 09:17:21 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 11:17:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair The parts book indicates that there are (3) CMZ0308 screws required. They are #10-32 recessed countersunk-head machine screws, 1/2" long. Zinc plated. Each screw requires a flat washer, a spring washer & a nut. My Phase 1 BJ8 also has (2) drain holes near the corner of the "U" channel. In the bottom of the "U". The (3) screw holes are in the front leg of the "U". Gary From: Tim Davis BN7 tld6008 at mchsi.com My BN7 has flat head phillips in the worn hole locations. The "drain" holes are unoccupied but can't confirm original intention. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: David Masucci To: Ahealey help Sent: Fri, 22 Sep 2017 10:19:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair Hi All, I am presently working on restoring my shrouds. I have a question on the front shroud. I?ve attached a photo that shows the bonnet opening right at the front. Along the perimeter of the opening are three mounting holes where the front of the shroud is bolted to the sub-structure. I?ve identified the holes with red ovals, and they are labelled as ?A?. Over the years those mounting holes enlarged to the point where the original screw heads wore themselves right through the aluminum. 20 years ago I replaced the original screws with larger headed screws, and even made dished washers out of aluminum sheet to help secure the shroud. To restore it I plan to TIG weld in new metal and then drill new holes. The problem is that I don?t have any idea of how big the holes should be. I also don?t know what the correct screw type might be. Were they countersunk heads, Philips, pozidrive, or flat? So if any of you guys can tell me the proper hole size and screw type I?d very much appreciated it. Also you can see an additional hole far to the left that I?ve labeled ?B?. There is a similar one on the other side. Is it supposed to be there as a drain? Thanks in advance for any help. I?m starting to see the light at the end of this restoration tunnel. :-) Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 23 09:22:31 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 08:22:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Diff Pumpkin Seal References: <1827381413.708567.1506150133397.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1827381413.708567.1506150133397@mail.yahoo.com> I've used the paper gaskets--which usually aren't a perfect fit--with a thin coating of Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on both sides a few times with no leaks.? Make sure both surfaces are smooth and flat.? One of the modern sealants--e.g. 'Right Stuff'--would work well but be warned these are often just as good as glues and can be the devil to undo.? My rebuilder used two beads of 'Right Stuff' on my BJ8's pan and when I cracked it and had to remove it I injured an elbow trying to separate the pan from the block. Bob On 9/23/2017 12:02 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > What is the conventional wisdom on what type of sealant to use on the > gasket for the pumpkin to axle housing? > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Sep 23 09:27:47 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 08:27:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <20170922113919.AT7KW.5562.root@pamxwww03-z01> What kind of 'filter' is there in the tank?? Anyone have a photo? We dismantled an original BN2 tank, and there was nothing but a tube to (almost) the bottom. Bob On 9/22/2017 8:39 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > the tank has to be cut open---and done by someone who understands the danger in doing that. > > > ---- Bob Simmen wrote: > > ============= > Tom, > How do you get to the filter inside the tank? When I removed the sending unit from my tank, all I could see were the baffles. > I recently had to blow my lines from the fuel pump to the tank with air to clear the filter. It has worked for now, but I am sure it is just time before it clogs again. > Thanks in advance. > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts > Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 8:21 AM > To: Oudesluys ; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery > > Have you ever replaced the "in-tank" fuel filter? If not this could be your problem. The same thing you described happened to me years ago. It drove me crazy until I had the tank opened. The in-tank filter was chocked full of "stuff". I pulled it, sealed the tank, added an in-line filter and never had the problem again. > > tom > > > From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Sat Sep 23 09:44:47 2017 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 11:44:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Calgary to Monterey Return - The details! Ross, Great to hear you made it home safe and sound. It was great to meet you in person and though you may not remember my face, I loved your story and your dedication of making this journey. I love to hear and see folks like you, folks who drive these cars to their limits and then some. Happy trails for the future and here's to you and your BN6! Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 9/23/2017 12:55:27 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rvmaylor at shaw.ca writes: Hi all, Just back from the round trip to Monterey for the International Healey Week. Many thanks to the Golden Gate Austin Healey Club who hosted a great event. It was well worth the drive. Many highlights of the event included meeting many of the people on this list, the Rally out to Big Sur, the car show in Pacific Grove and the laps of Laguna Seca. The 1958 Pacific Green BN6 performed well and didn?t let me down. The only casualties were the tach cable which broke two days into the trip and not replaced until two days left, the rear exhaust pipe bracket vibrated itself apart, (bailing wire fix and it was already near failure and I forgot that last minute repair), the driver side wiper arm jumped ship in a torrential downpour at dusk, and a pressure wave from a semi truck blew out the cheap aftermarket plexi glass from the passenger side screen during yesterday?s snowstorm. Here are the stats from the Garmin GPS, Metric Version Distance = 5737 km Fuel = 842.3 litres Avg. = 14.7 litres\100km Oil used = 3.8 litres Avg. = 1 L/1516 km Transmission Fluid = 0 Rad Fluid added = ? litre Garmin Top Speed = 151 km/hr Avg. Moving Speed = 67.3 km/h Max Elevation = 2933 meters Min Elevation = 2 meters Max Temp = 35 C Min Temp = 0 C Statute Version Distance = 3565 miles Fuel = 222.5 US gallons Avg. = 16 mpg Oil used = 4 quarts Avg. = 1 qt./891 miles Transmission Fluid = 0 Rad Fluid added = ? qt. Garmin Top Speed = 94 mph (the speedo read 105 very briefly) Avg. Moving Speed = 41.8 mph Max Elevation = 9624 feet (Sonora Pass) Min Elevation = 2 meters Max Temp = 95 F Min Temp = 32 F Cheers Ross Maylor -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sat Sep 23 09:47:01 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 16:47:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fiberglass Body Parts References: Years ago I bought my car from John Chatham?he was selling it for a customer. Anyhow, the famous DD800 (is that the right number?) was there. Nearby was a stack of fibre glass front wings..?Oh, yes. Those are for racing. We smash one, we stick another one right on?. Doesn?t help you, but it amused me at the time. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonathan Einhorn Sent: 23 September 2017 13:34 To: healey list Subject: [Healeys] Fiberglass Body Parts My racecar was hit at Lime Rock this Labor Day (assaulted by a Ferrari 250SW), and I'm looking for a replacement fiberglass front shroud or patches for the front. I've got extra fiberglass fenders: does anyone have a fiberglass front shroud or pieces of one I can use for patching the front? thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 23 13:17:31 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 12:17:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Diff Pumpkin Seal References: <1827381413.708567.1506150133397.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1827381413.708567.1506150133397@mail.yahoo.com> Non-hardening Hylomar works for me on almost all gaskets. John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2017 12:02 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Diff Pumpkin Seal What is the conventional wisdom on what type of sealant to use on the gasket for the pumpkin to axle housing? Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Sat Sep 23 13:20:47 2017 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 19:20:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 1157 positive ground red stop/tail bulbs References: <1451926503.10487671.1505940177692@mail.yahoo.com> <654055660.62867045.1506189272181.JavaMail.root@embarqmail.com> Robert I live in UK and am currently on a driving holiday in southern France with limited internet access. However, I'm online tonight and have discovered that for some reason we have better availability of positive ground LEDs in the UK than you have in the US. http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/led-bulbs-especially-for-motorcycles-shop.php? are shipping worldwide and have what you need. As I suggested before, 1157 is equivalent to BAY15D. Good luck. Rgds Mike Brooks Reply to:?mike.brooks at alumni.warwick.ac.uk ?Aboyne Men's Shed is a Scottish Charitable Incorporated Organisation SC047036 Shop at the Aboyne Co-opie? We would love you to Choose Aboyne Mens' Shed as your preferred charity. Log in to your account on-line to select us! On Saturday, 23 September 2017, 18:54:34 GMT+1, ROBERT BAGGS wrote: OK, Mike and all others, how about availability in America?? Any information? ? Robert BJ7 (w/ BJ8 carbs) From: "mike brooks" To: bspidell at comcast.net Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2017 1:42:57 PM Subject: [Healeys] 1157 positive ground red stop/tail bulbs Bob These are available from several sources on uk ebay and elsewhere as BAY15D which AFAIK are equal to 1157. Might be worth googling BAY15D.? Mike Brooks'56 BN2 Scotland Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Sep 23 14:43:57 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 22:43:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <20170922113919.AT7KW.5562.root@pamxwww03-z01> <3de1713d-668d-5a28-89f6-05bbfdc2316e@comcast.net> There may be a (plastic/metal) gauze filter at the end of the pick up pipe. Not all of the senders cum pick up have them fitted. Very unlikely that there is a filter that to access you have to cut the fuel tank! Kees Oudesluijs Op 23-9-2017 om 17:27 schreef Bob Spidell: > What kind of 'filter' is there in the tank?? Anyone have a photo? > > We dismantled an original BN2 tank, and there was nothing but a tube > to (almost) the bottom. > > Bob > > > On 9/22/2017 8:39 AM, Tom Felts wrote: >> the tank has to be cut open---and done by someone who understands the >> danger in doing that. >> >> >> ---- Bob Simmen wrote: >> >> ============= >> Tom, >> How do you get to the filter inside the tank?? When I removed the >> sending unit from my tank, all I could see were the baffles. >> I recently had to blow my lines from the fuel pump to the tank with >> air to clear the filter.? It has worked for now, but I am sure it is >> just time before it clogs again. >> Thanks in advance. >> Bob >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> Tom Felts >> Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 8:21 AM >> To: Oudesluys ; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery >> >> Have you ever replaced the "in-tank" fuel filter?? If not this could >> be your problem.? The same thing you described happened to me years >> ago.? It drove me crazy until I had the tank opened. The in-tank >> filter was chocked full of "stuff".? I pulled it, sealed the tank, >> added an in-line filter and never had the problem again. >> >> tom >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From tomfelts at windstream.net Sat Sep 23 15:20:32 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 17:20:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery I can only speak for a BJ8. It came equipped with a sock-type filter over the PU tube--inside the tank. It was whitish in color --mesh type---and as I remember some cloth-like material. tom ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= What kind of 'filter' is there in the tank?? Anyone have a photo? We dismantled an original BN2 tank, and there was nothing but a tube to (almost) the bottom. Bob On 9/22/2017 8:39 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > the tank has to be cut open---and done by someone who understands the danger in doing that. > > > ---- Bob Simmen wrote: > > ============= > Tom, > How do you get to the filter inside the tank? When I removed the sending unit from my tank, all I could see were the baffles. > I recently had to blow my lines from the fuel pump to the tank with air to clear the filter. It has worked for now, but I am sure it is just time before it clogs again. > Thanks in advance. > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts > Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 8:21 AM > To: Oudesluys ; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery > > Have you ever replaced the "in-tank" fuel filter? If not this could be your problem. The same thing you described happened to me years ago. It drove me crazy until I had the tank opened. The in-tank filter was chocked full of "stuff". I pulled it, sealed the tank, added an in-line filter and never had the problem again. > > tom > > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Sep 23 19:10:27 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 21:10:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New ride I don't fit in the new Healey and the wife isn't too crazy about the girl hanging around in the family room but for $22 I brought them home anyway. Even came in a near perfect original box! Have to see if the radio works. Fun Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1853.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 100974 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat Sep 23 22:17:34 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 21:17:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times After the harness meltdown, which impacted the battery lead to the fuel gauge, the gauge has read full and there is currently about ? in the tank. The gauge has been checked twice and pronounced OK. Today I bypassed the tank-sender wire with a jumper, same result?reading full. I removed the sender and bench tested the resistance and got 2 ohms with the float fully down and around 70 ohms with the float lifted to approximately where it would be in a full tank. From what I can find online this is in range. So I?m stumped as to why the gauge is reading full. Thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat Sep 23 22:38:31 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 21:38:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times References: <007101d334ec$0d4ca790$27e5f6b0$@roadrunner.com> <20170924043319.4599892.99487.9574@gmail.com> Thanks Roland. I should have also mentioned that I have a ground wire from the collar of the sending unit to the frame. But I also did not check that it was a good ground at this point. It was previously. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Roland Wilhelmy [mailto:sentenac.rw at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2017 9:33 PM To: Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times Bad ground connection to sender would look like high ohm connection and give you a 'full' reading. That's my guess anyhow -Roland0 Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. From: Bruce Steele Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2017 9:27 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times After the harness meltdown, which impacted the battery lead to the fuel gauge, the gauge has read full and there is currently about ? in the tank. The gauge has been checked twice and pronounced OK. Today I bypassed the tank-sender wire with a jumper, same result?reading full. I removed the sender and bench tested the resistance and got 2 ohms with the float fully down and around 70 ohms with the float lifted to approximately where it would be in a full tank. From what I can find online this is in range. So I?m stumped as to why the gauge is reading full. Thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Sep 23 23:12:20 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2017 22:12:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] LBC, but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes Back: Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe References: <20170921031230.15CB625884A6@autox.team.net> Our Oregon club had three cars a small town car show. There was onelad about 9 who thought i had the coolest car there, so offered to let him sit behind the wheel. What a great grin he had. One possible future owner was born. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Sep 23, 2017 4:44 PM, "Perry" wrote: > Wow?Great to see so many young kids at the show enjoying the car > experience. It renews my enthusiasm for the future of old British cars and > their caretakers! > > Aloha > > Perry > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *HealeyRick > *Sent: *Wednesday, September 20, 2017 5:34 PM > *To: *Bob Spidell > *Cc: *Healeys > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] LBC,but no Healey content: The Empire Strikes > Back: Anglo Quirkiness atthe British Invasion of Stowe > > > > More Healeys at the Stowe Main St. Block Party which is an absolute blast. > (My Nasty Boy makes a brief cameo at 1:27): https://www.youtube. > com/watch?v=zGjMaUJKIjc And I've attached some pics of the "Best of > Show" winner, a beautiful Golden Beige Metallic BJ8 (an original GBM car > from new) with a stunning oxblood leather interior. > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Sep 24 05:28:27 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 7:28:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery except that is was on my BJ8 which had the original fuel tank. I have heard of others who had the exact same situation. to ---- Oudesluys wrote: ============= There may be a (plastic/metal) gauze filter at the end of the pick up pipe. Not all of the senders cum pick up have them fitted. Very unlikely that there is a filter that to access you have to cut the fuel tank! Kees Oudesluijs Op 23-9-2017 om 17:27 schreef Bob Spidell: > What kind of 'filter' is there in the tank?? Anyone have a photo? > > We dismantled an original BN2 tank, and there was nothing but a tube > to (almost) the bottom. > > Bob > > > On 9/22/2017 8:39 AM, Tom Felts wrote: >> the tank has to be cut open---and done by someone who understands the >> danger in doing that. >> >> >> ---- Bob Simmen wrote: >> >> ============= >> Tom, >> How do you get to the filter inside the tank?? When I removed the >> sending unit from my tank, all I could see were the baffles. >> I recently had to blow my lines from the fuel pump to the tank with >> air to clear the filter.? It has worked for now, but I am sure it is >> just time before it clogs again. >> Thanks in advance. >> Bob >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> Tom Felts >> Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 8:21 AM >> To: Oudesluys ; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery >> >> Have you ever replaced the "in-tank" fuel filter?? If not this could >> be your problem.? The same thing you described happened to me years >> ago.? It drove me crazy until I had the tank opened. The in-tank >> filter was chocked full of "stuff".? I pulled it, sealed the tank, >> added an in-line filter and never had the problem again. >> >> tom >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Sep 24 05:30:12 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 7:30:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New ride have two of these-------and occasionally you see them at antique places. tom ---- Perry wrote: ============= I don't fit in the new Healey and the wife isn't too crazy about the girl hanging around in the family room but for $22 I brought them home anyway. Even came in a near perfect original box! Have to see if the radio works. Fun Perry From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Sep 24 06:56:43 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 08:56:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times References: <007101d334ec$0d4ca790$27e5f6b0$@roadrunner.com> <20170924043319.4599892.99487.9574@gmail.com> <021601d334ee$f9e399e0$edaacda0$@roadrunner.com> Bruce, Sounds like you need to check the harness from the sender to the gauge. Resistance should be close to zero. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/24/2017 12:38 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > Thanks Roland. I should have also mentioned that I have a ground wire > from the collar of the sending unit to the frame. But I also did not > check that it was a good ground at this point. It was previously. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:* Roland Wilhelmy [mailto:sentenac.rw at gmail.com] > *Sent:* Saturday, September 23, 2017 9:33 PM > *To:* Bruce Steele > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times > > Bad ground connection to sender would look like high ohm connection and > give you a 'full' reading. That's my guess anyhow > > -Roland0 > > Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. > > *From: *Bruce Steele > > *Sent: *Saturday, September 23, 2017 9:27 PM > > *To: *'Healey List' > > *Subject: *[Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times > > After the harness meltdown, which impacted the battery lead to the fuel > gauge, the gauge has read full and there is currently about ? in the > tank. The gauge has been checked twice and pronounced OK. Today I > bypassed the tank-sender wire with a jumper, same result?reading full. > I removed the sender and bench tested the resistance and got 2 ohms with > the float fully down and around 70 ohms with the float lifted to > approximately where it would be in a full tank. From what I can find > online this is in range. So I?m stumped as to why the gauge is reading > full. Thoughts? > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From warthodson at aol.com Sun Sep 24 08:02:41 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 10:02:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times References: <007101d334ec$0d4ca790$27e5f6b0$@roadrunner.com> While the sending unit is out, I would: 1. Confirm that there is power/voltage to the power lead (I think it is a "GB" wire) that connects to the sending unit, with the ignition switch "on". Use a voltage meter, not a continuity or resistance or amp meter. Connect the volt meter to the end of the GB wire & to a good ground. Turn on the ignition switch. You should see about 12 volts. 2. Connect the GB power wire to the sending unit terminal (with the sending unit still out of the tank) & connect the mounting flange of the sending unit to a good ground. With the ignition switch "on", raise & lower the float & observe the fuel gage. The needle should go up & down. These two tests should help to isolate the source of your problem. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Steele To: 'Healey List' Sent: Sun, Sep 24, 2017 3:19 am Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times After the harness meltdown, which impacted the battery lead to the fuel gauge, the gauge has read full and there is currently about ? in the tank. The gauge has been checked twice and pronounced OK. Today I bypassed the tank-sender wire with a jumper, same result?reading full. I removed the sender and bench tested the resistance and got 2 ohms with the float fully down and around 70 ohms with the float lifted to approximately where it would be in a full tank. From what I can find online this is in range. So I?m stumped as to why the gauge is reading full. Thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Sep 24 08:08:58 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 10:08:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New ride References: <872CCBAF-4B31-48B1-B9BA-BAD8D27350E1@aol.com> Perry, in my opinion, the really valuable Barbie Healeys are the ones manufactured with the bumpers upside down like the one I bought 25 years ago at the Charlotte Autofair. This drives the Barbie Healey Concours people crazy when they insist that the bumpers are incorrect. However, the bumpers were not simply installed upside down at the factory, they were made that way as the BARBIE on the license plates with the upside down overriders show. >From the experience of the stamps and coins that have manufacturing defects and are worth thousands and millions more than the standard-issue stuff, I expect to reap great monetary rewards from my little jewel when the time comes to sell her at the B-J Scottsdale auction. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2017 9:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] New ride I don't fit in the new Healey and the wife isn't too crazy about the girl hanging around in the family room but for $22 I brought them home anyway. Even came in a near perfect original box! Have to see if the radio works. Fun Perry --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Barbie front.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 206453 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Barbie rear.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 175160 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 24 08:49:36 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 07:49:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <20170923172032.MZG2L.230.root@pamxwww05-z01> Thanks.? I suspect aftermarket tanks may not have it. Bob On 9/23/2017 2:20 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > I can only speak for a BJ8. It came equipped with a sock-type filter over the PU tube--inside the tank. > > It was whitish in color --mesh type---and as I remember some cloth-like material. > tom > ---- Bob Spidell wrote: > > ============= > What kind of 'filter' is there in the tank?? Anyone have a photo? > > We dismantled an original BN2 tank, and there was nothing but a tube to > (almost) the bottom. > > Bob > > > On 9/22/2017 8:39 AM, Tom Felts wrote: >> the tank has to be cut open---and done by someone who understands the danger in doing that. >> >> >> ---- Bob Simmen wrote: >> >> ============= >> Tom, >> How do you get to the filter inside the tank? When I removed the sending unit from my tank, all I could see were the baffles. >> I recently had to blow my lines from the fuel pump to the tank with air to clear the filter. It has worked for now, but I am sure it is just time before it clogs again. >> Thanks in advance. >> Bob >> >> >> >> From al at bighealey.org Sun Sep 24 09:00:08 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 11:00:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times References: <007101d334ec$0d4ca790$27e5f6b0$@roadrunner.com> Hey Bruce: It sounds like you still have a gremlin lurking somewhere in the harness Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 12:18 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times After the harness meltdown, which impacted the battery lead to the fuel gauge, the gauge has read full and there is currently about ? in the tank. The gauge has been checked twice and pronounced OK. Today I bypassed the tank-sender wire with a jumper, same result?reading full. I removed the sender and bench tested the resistance and got 2 ohms with the float fully down and around 70 ohms with the float lifted to approximately where it would be in a full tank. From what I can find online this is in range. So I?m stumped as to why the gauge is reading full. Thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Sep 24 11:44:59 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 13:44:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <20170923172032.MZG2L.230.root@pamxwww05-z01> <3ba55e3e-2f1f-941c-4ffa-66241957ce66@comcast.net> All aftermarket tanks that I have taken a part did not have the slide over plastic screen. Its only a filter in a general sense as it will pass fairly large particles compared to any of the modern inline filters available today. Hey in the old days we didn?t worry to much about filtering things. The engines leaked enough that you ended up running fresh oil (one quart at a time) between oil changes and the air filters basically kept birds out of the carbs. Who would be concerned about microscopic bits that would pug up a carb needle and seat that hardly ever closed or a jet that changed delivered fuel volume every time the engine revved? After all that consider that DMH only thought our precious little Austin Healeys would last about 10 years before they would be junk or junked! I had 52 years of ownership out of ours and its not showing its age to bad at 62 years and one month as of yesterday. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 12:09 PM To: Tom Felts; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery Thanks.? I suspect aftermarket tanks may not have it. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Sep 24 11:46:41 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 13:46:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) There has been a slow, gradual decline in my engine's oil pressure for a while now--60 to 65 psi on start-up from cold dropping at running temperatures to 30-35 psi at 3K rpm's and 10 psi or less at fast idle. Yesterday I took the car for a long ride and after a while at 65-70 mph the oil pressure actually dropped below 30 psi, so it's now officially below the "10 psi/1K rpm's" threshold. The engine has about 60K on it since complete rebuild so this morning I decided to bite the bullet and drop the sump with the hope that I will find nothing worse than a worn oil pump and/or main or rod bearings, either of which I can repair/replace in time for some fall driving. I first removed the spin-on oil filter and upon cutting it apart noticed a bit of black plastic debris--irregularly shaped pieces, almost gravel-like perhaps 1/16" to 1/8" in dimension on one end of the cartridge. The filter medium itself was fairly clean though I did notice a bit more shiny bearing-like material than I would have liked to have seen. While draining the pan I heard a clunk or two from some solids going through the drain hole and landing in a catch pan and on examination I found a couple of larger pieces of the same kind of stuff--definitely some black plastic material, not particularly hard as it would give when bitten. The big surprise was what I found when I removed the pan--a lot more of the same small stuff and four segments of a black plastic piece. In the attached thumbnail you'll see that they form a semi-circle about 5" in diameter and notice on the two pieces in the 9 o'clock position that there appears to have been some gear-like teeth molded in. The small debris is inside the semi-circle. I'm going to remove the oil pump tomorrow but wonder if anyone has an idea as to what this stuff could be? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170924_130509.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3465792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 24 12:07:50 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 11:07:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] New ride References: <872CCBAF-4B31-48B1-B9BA-BAD8D27350E1@aol.com> <0aa701d3353e$ae5532e0$0aff98a0$@rr.com> "... I expect to reap great monetary rewards from my little jewel when the time comes to sell her at the B-J Scottsdale auction." You should try selling it to the 'Pawn Stars' guys.? Wonder if they'd bring in Roger Moment as an expert? bs On 9/24/2017 7:08 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Perry, in my opinion, the really valuable Barbie Healeys are the ones > manufactured with the bumpers upside down like the one I bought 25 years ago > at the Charlotte Autofair. This drives the Barbie Healey Concours people > crazy when they insist that the bumpers are incorrect. However, the bumpers > were not simply installed upside down at the factory, they were made that > way as the BARBIE on the license plates with the upside down overriders > show. > > >From the experience of the stamps and coins that have manufacturing defects > and are worth thousands and millions more than the standard-issue stuff, I > expect to reap great monetary rewards from my little jewel when the time > comes to sell her at the B-J Scottsdale auction. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry > Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2017 9:10 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] New ride > > I don't fit in the new Healey and the wife isn't too crazy about the girl > hanging around in the family room but for $22 I brought them home anyway. > Even came in a near perfect original box! Have to see if the radio works. > Fun > Perry > From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Sep 24 13:34:33 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 15:34:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery Mine was not an aftermarket tsnk. It was an original. It was filled with debris when I took it out. Tom ---- Perry wrote: ============= All aftermarket tanks that I have taken a part did not have the slide over plastic screen. Its only a filter in a general sense as it will pass fairly large particles compared to any of the modern inline filters available today. Hey in the old days we didn?t worry to much about filtering things. The engines leaked enough that you ended up running fresh oil (one quart at a time) between oil changes and the air filters basically kept birds out of the carbs. Who would be concerned about microscopic bits that would pug up a carb needle and seat that hardly ever closed or a jet that changed delivered fuel volume every time the engine revved? After all that consider that DMH only thought our precious little Austin Healeys would last about 10 years before they would be junk or junked! I had 52 years of ownership out of ours and its not showing its age to bad at 62 years and one month as of yesterday. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 12:09 PM To: Tom Felts; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery Thanks.? I suspect aftermarket tanks may not have it. Bob From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Sep 24 13:35:52 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 15:35:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New ride References: <872CCBAF-4B31-48B1-B9BA-BAD8D27350E1@aol.com> <0aa701d3353e$ae5532e0$0aff98a0$@rr.com> Yes Steve production mistakes, intentional or not, can really drive up prices. Wife and I collect 100 year old pottery from a group of potteries that were based about 3 miles from were we live. A young boy or even the more elder man that worked there would make a couple dollars a day making a crock or jug that was sold for 10 to 12 cents each. If the stencil that was applied in cobalt blue was inadvertently applied upside down or backwards the piece still went out the shipping room door as a usable/salable piece of pottery. A hundred years later that piece that was not done properly will be double the going price for an normal piece. That?s because buyers like me are crazy!!!! It is now official, I?m crazy! First old English sports cars now hardened pieces of clay! Hope everyone is having a great day. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: BJ8Healeys Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 3:07 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] New ride Perry, in my opinion, the really valuable Barbie Healeys are the ones manufactured with the bumpers upside down like the one I bought 25 years ago at the Charlotte Autofair. This drives the Barbie Healey Concours people crazy when they insist that the bumpers are incorrect. However, the bumpers were not simply installed upside down at the factory, they were made that way as the BARBIE on the license plates with the upside down overriders show. >From the experience of the stamps and coins that have manufacturing defects and are worth thousands and millions more than the standard-issue stuff, I expect to reap great monetary rewards from my little jewel when the time comes to sell her at the B-J Scottsdale auction. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2017 9:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] New ride I don't fit in the new Healey and the wife isn't too crazy about the girl hanging around in the family room but for $22 I brought them home anyway. Even came in a near perfect original box! Have to see if the radio works. Fun Perry --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Sep 24 14:32:45 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 20:32:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) References: Old oil filter seal?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Sun, Sep 24, 2017 at 12:51 PM, Michael Oritt wrote: There has been a slow, gradual decline in my engine's oil pressure for a while now--60 to 65 psi on start-up from cold dropping at running temperatures to 30-35 psi at 3K rpm's and 10 psi or less at fast idle. Yesterday I took the car for a long ride and after a while at 65-70 mph the oil pressure actually dropped below 30 psi, so it's now officially below the "10 psi/1K rpm's" threshold.? The engine has about 60K on it since complete rebuild so this morning I decided to bite the bullet and drop the sump with the hope that I will find nothing worse than a worn oil pump and/or main or rod bearings, either of which I can repair/replace in time for some fall driving.? I first removed the spin-on oil filter and upon cutting it apart noticed a bit of black plastic debris--irregularly shaped pieces, almost gravel-like perhaps 1/16" to 1/8" in dimension on one end of the cartridge. The filter medium itself was fairly clean though I did notice a bit more shiny bearing-like material than I would have liked to have seen. While draining the pan I heard a clunk or two from some solids going through the drain hole and landing in a catch pan and on examination I found a couple of larger pieces of the same kind of stuff--definitely some black plastic material, not particularly hard as it would give when bitten.? The big surprise was what I found when I removed the pan--a lot more of the same small stuff and four segments of a black plastic piece. In the attached thumbnail you'll see that they form a semi-circle about 5" in diameter and notice on the two pieces in the 9 o'clock position that there appears to have been some gear-like teeth molded in. The small debris is inside the semi-circle. I'm going to remove the oil pump tomorrow but wonder if anyone has an idea as to what this stuff could be? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Sep 24 14:42:20 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 16:42:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New ride References: <872CCBAF-4B31-48B1-B9BA-BAD8D27350E1@aol.com> <0aa701d3353e$ae5532e0$0aff98a0$@rr.com> While we are at it, I have a Barbie Healey and several Healey Revell models which are still in their boxes with cellophane covering intact. Gonna eBay them some time this week. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 10:09 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] New ride Perry, in my opinion, the really valuable Barbie Healeys are the ones manufactured with the bumpers upside down like the one I bought 25 years ago at the Charlotte Autofair. This drives the Barbie Healey Concours people crazy when they insist that the bumpers are incorrect. However, the bumpers were not simply installed upside down at the factory, they were made that way as the BARBIE on the license plates with the upside down overriders show. >From the experience of the stamps and coins that have manufacturing defects and are worth thousands and millions more than the standard-issue stuff, I expect to reap great monetary rewards from my little jewel when the time comes to sell her at the B-J Scottsdale auction. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2017 9:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] New ride I don't fit in the new Healey and the wife isn't too crazy about the girl hanging around in the family room but for $22 I brought them home anyway. Even came in a near perfect original box! Have to see if the radio works. Fun Perry --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From airtightproductions at icloud.com Sun Sep 24 15:52:23 2017 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 21:52:23 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Michael, ???I found the same item sitting in the bottom of my oil pan. I have a BN1 and think the way it was baked into the debris on the bottom of the pan, that it had been there a long time. It is a timing chain tensioner (sp?). Mine had been sitting there for years I'm sure, but it never affected my oil pressure. And still doesn't. I never took the engine apart to replace it and I've put many a mile on the car since I discovered it over a year ago now, so it seems my car can do without it. Had me baffled though and it was through this email list that I got point in the right direction. ???Good luck in finding what's causing the oil pressure drop. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598? On Sep 24, 2017, at 01:34 PM, Michael Oritt wrote: There has been a slow, gradual decline in my engine's oil pressure for a while now--60 to 65 psi on start-up from cold dropping at running temperatures to 30-35 psi at 3K rpm's and 10 psi or less at fast idle. Yesterday I took the car for a long ride and after a while at 65-70 mph the oil pressure actually dropped below 30 psi, so it's now officially below the "10 psi/1K rpm's" threshold.? The engine has about 60K on it since complete rebuild so this morning I decided to bite the bullet and drop the sump with the hope that I will find nothing worse than a worn oil pump and/or main or rod bearings, either of which I can repair/replace in time for some fall driving.? I first removed the spin-on oil filter and upon cutting it apart noticed a bit of black plastic debris--irregularly shaped pieces, almost gravel-like perhaps 1/16" to 1/8" in dimension on one end of the cartridge. The filter medium itself was fairly clean though I did notice a bit more shiny bearing-like material than I would have liked to have seen. While draining the pan I heard a clunk or two from some solids going through the drain hole and landing in a catch pan and on examination I found a couple of larger pieces of the same kind of stuff--definitely some black plastic material, not particularly hard as it would give when bitten.? The big surprise was what I found when I removed the pan--a lot more of the same small stuff and four segments of a black plastic piece. In the attached thumbnail you'll see that they form a semi-circle about 5" in diameter and notice on the two pieces in the 9 o'clock position that there appears to have been some gear-like teeth molded in. The small debris is inside the semi-circle. I'm going to remove the oil pump tomorrow but wonder if anyone has an idea as to what this stuff could be? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170924_130509.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3465792 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Sun Sep 24 16:50:30 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 18:50:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <20170924174921.7DCA125891A2@autox.team.net> <20170924153433.8CAO2.1662.root@pamxwww05-z01> Would it be correct, that on my BJ8 that has been sitting for 25 years, when I blew the fuel line with air from the pump to the tank due to a clogged line or filter, and it suddenly opened up, I probably blew a clogged filter off the end of the pickup line inside the tank? Then, would it also be correct, that if I now have a filter between the tank and the fuel pump, the only negative would be that I now have just one more rattle? Bob -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 3:35 PM To: Perry ; healeylist Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery Mine was not an aftermarket tsnk. It was an original. It was filled with debris when I took it out. Tom ---- Perry wrote: ============= All aftermarket tanks that I have taken a part did not have the slide over plastic screen. Its only a filter in a general sense as it will pass fairly large particles compared to any of the modern inline filters available today. Hey in the old days we didn?t worry to much about filtering things. The engines leaked enough that you ended up running fresh oil (one quart at a time) between oil changes and the air filters basically kept birds out of the carbs. Who would be concerned about microscopic bits that would pug up a carb needle and seat that hardly ever closed or a jet that changed delivered fuel volume every time the engine revved? After all that consider that DMH only thought our precious little Austin Healeys would last about 10 years before they would be junk or junked! I had 52 years of ownership out of ours and its not showing its age to bad at 62 years and one month as of yesterday. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 12:09 PM To: Tom Felts; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery Thanks. I suspect aftermarket tanks may not have it. Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Sep 24 16:52:04 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 18:52:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) References: <20170924193608.4599892.33866.9585@gmail.com> All-- Thanks for the several responses to my earlier post regarding the debris I found in the sump. Smarty pants Dave Porter was the first to suggest that it was pieces of the timing chain tensioner belt and I am quite sure he is correct. Though the belt is made of rubber it has obviously hardened into a plastic-like density since it was installed about 15 years ago. The gear-like shapes along the edge of some of the pieces were probably made as the belt passed through the cam gears. I'll confirm when I remove the cover in the next few days. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Sep 24, 2017 at 3:36 PM, Roland Wilhelmy wrote: > Timing chain tensioner? Crankshaft seal front or rear? Camshaft seal? > Something the previous rebuilder left in by mistake? It was relatively > benign considering the mileage. > -Roland > > Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. > *From: *Michael Oritt > *Sent: *Sunday, September 24, 2017 12:13 PM > *To: *Austin Healey; Michael Clifford JR > *Subject: *[Healeys] (no subject) > > There has been a slow, gradual decline in my engine's oil pressure for a > while now--60 to 65 psi on start-up from cold dropping at running > temperatures to 30-35 psi at 3K rpm's and 10 psi or less at fast idle. > Yesterday I took the car for a long ride and after a while at 65-70 mph the > oil pressure actually dropped below 30 psi, so it's now officially below > the "10 psi/1K rpm's" threshold. > > The engine has about 60K on it since complete rebuild so this morning I > decided to bite the bullet and drop the sump with the hope that I will find > nothing worse than a worn oil pump and/or main or rod bearings, either of > which I can repair/replace in time for some fall driving. > > I first removed the spin-on oil filter and upon cutting it apart noticed a > bit of black plastic debris--irregularly shaped pieces, almost gravel-like > perhaps 1/16" to 1/8" in dimension on one end of the cartridge. The filter > medium itself was fairly clean though I did notice a bit more shiny > bearing-like material than I would have liked to have seen. > > While draining the pan I heard a clunk or two from some solids going > through the drain hole and landing in a catch pan and on examination I > found a couple of larger pieces of the same kind of stuff--definitely some > black plastic material, not particularly hard as it would give when bitten. > > The big surprise was what I found when I removed the pan--a lot more of > the same small stuff and four segments of a black plastic piece. In the > attached thumbnail you'll see that they form a semi-circle about 5" in > diameter and notice on the two pieces in the 9 o'clock position that there > appears to have been some gear-like teeth molded in. The small debris is > inside the semi-circle. > > I'm going to remove the oil pump tomorrow but wonder if anyone has an idea > as to what this stuff could be? > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun Sep 24 17:45:12 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 16:45:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times References: <007101d334ec$0d4ca790$27e5f6b0$@roadrunner.com> <023901d33545$d0efd330$72cf7990$@bighealey.org> Well, today I took the sender back to the boot and hooked it up to the gauge wire and the ground, and it works fine as I raise and lower the float. No idea why it is working now, but as soon as I get a new gasket I?ll put it back in the tank and ensure the connections are sound and hope it works in there. Weird. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 8:00 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times Hey Bruce: It sounds like you still have a gremlin lurking somewhere in the harness Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 12:18 AM Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times After the harness meltdown, which impacted the battery lead to the fuel gauge, the gauge has read full and there is currently about ? in the tank. The gauge has been checked twice and pronounced OK. Today I bypassed the tank-sender wire with a jumper, same result?reading full. I removed the sender and bench tested the resistance and got 2 ohms with the float fully down and around 70 ohms with the float lifted to approximately where it would be in a full tank. From what I can find online this is in range. So I?m stumped as to why the gauge is reading full. Thoughts? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kimobriske at gmail.com Sun Sep 24 17:56:05 2017 From: kimobriske at gmail.com (Kimo Briske) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 13:56:05 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) References: Hi, Could it be pieces of the ring that secures the cap on a quart of oil that fell off into the valve cover when you added Oil ? Aloha, Kimo On Sun, Sep 24, 2017 at 7:46 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > There has been a slow, gradual decline in my engine's oil pressure for a > while now--60 to 65 psi on start-up from cold dropping at running > temperatures to 30-35 psi at 3K rpm's and 10 psi or less at fast idle. > Yesterday I took the car for a long ride and after a while at 65-70 mph the > oil pressure actually dropped below 30 psi, so it's now officially below > the "10 psi/1K rpm's" threshold. > > The engine has about 60K on it since complete rebuild so this morning I > decided to bite the bullet and drop the sump with the hope that I will find > nothing worse than a worn oil pump and/or main or rod bearings, either of > which I can repair/replace in time for some fall driving. > > I first removed the spin-on oil filter and upon cutting it apart noticed a > bit of black plastic debris--irregularly shaped pieces, almost gravel-like > perhaps 1/16" to 1/8" in dimension on one end of the cartridge. The filter > medium itself was fairly clean though I did notice a bit more shiny > bearing-like material than I would have liked to have seen. > > While draining the pan I heard a clunk or two from some solids going > through the drain hole and landing in a catch pan and on examination I > found a couple of larger pieces of the same kind of stuff--definitely some > black plastic material, not particularly hard as it would give when bitten. > > The big surprise was what I found when I removed the pan--a lot more of > the same small stuff and four segments of a black plastic piece. In the > attached thumbnail you'll see that they form a semi-circle about 5" in > diameter and notice on the two pieces in the 9 o'clock position that there > appears to have been some gear-like teeth molded in. The small debris is > inside the semi-circle. > > I'm going to remove the oil pump tomorrow but wonder if anyone has an idea > as to what this stuff could be? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/kimobriske at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Sep 24 18:00:23 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 20:00:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) References: Come on you guys. Unless the block has ben treated to a more modern pressurized timing chain tensioner?what you are looking at is the remains of the large flat O ring that serves as the timing chain tensioner on 100?s. Bet the cam timing is off a bit too! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Oritt Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 6:04 PM To: Austin Healey; Michael Clifford JR Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) There has been a slow, gradual decline in my engine's oil pressure for a while now--60 to 65 psi on start-up from cold dropping at running temperatures to 30-35 psi at 3K rpm's and 10 psi or less at fast idle. Yesterday I took the car for a long ride and after a while at 65-70 mph the oil pressure actually dropped below 30 psi, so it's now officially below the "10 psi/1K rpm's" threshold.? The engine has about 60K on it since complete rebuild so this morning I decided to bite the bullet and drop the sump with the hope that I will find nothing worse than a worn oil pump and/or main or rod bearings, either of which I can repair/replace in time for some fall driving.? I first removed the spin-on oil filter and upon cutting it apart noticed a bit of black plastic debris--irregularly shaped pieces, almost gravel-like perhaps 1/16" to 1/8" in dimension on one end of the cartridge. The filter medium itself was fairly clean though I did notice a bit more shiny bearing-like material than I would have liked to have seen. While draining the pan I heard a clunk or two from some solids going through the drain hole and landing in a catch pan and on examination I found a couple of larger pieces of the same kind of stuff--definitely some black plastic material, not particularly hard as it would give when bitten.? The big surprise was what I found when I removed the pan--a lot more of the same small stuff and four segments of a black plastic piece. In the attached thumbnail you'll see that they form a semi-circle about 5" in diameter and notice on the two pieces in the 9 o'clock position that there appears to have been some gear-like teeth molded in. The small debris is inside the semi-circle. I'm going to remove the oil pump tomorrow but wonder if anyone has an idea as to what this stuff could be? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Sep 24 21:21:12 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2017 20:21:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <20170924174921.7DCA125891A2@autox.team.net> <20170924153433.8CAO2.1662.root@pamxwww05-z01> <011901d33587$86617f70$93247e50$@nc.rr.com> I think, if you have a loose filter and other crud in your tank you need to take it out and clean it out (esp. after 25 years of sitting).? The fuel system needs to be spotless from end to end; if not, no number of filters will prevent problems (probably, the intermittent, really aggravating kind).? Would be a good idea to check the small metal screens in the fuel pump as well. Bob On 9/24/2017 3:50 PM, Bob Simmen wrote: > Would it be correct, that on my BJ8 that has been sitting for 25 years, when I blew the fuel line with air from the pump to the tank due to a clogged line or filter, and it suddenly opened up, I probably blew a clogged filter off the end of the pickup line inside the tank? > > Then, would it also be correct, that if I now have a filter between the tank and the fuel pump, the only negative would be that I now have just one more rattle? > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts > Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 3:35 PM > To: Perry ; healeylist > Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery > > Mine was not an aftermarket tsnk. It was an original. It was filled with debris when I took it out. > Tom > ---- Perry wrote: > > ============= > All aftermarket tanks that I have taken a part did not have the slide over plastic screen. Its only a filter in a general sense as it will pass fairly large particles compared to any of the modern inline filters available today. Hey in the old days we didn?t worry to much about filtering things. The engines leaked enough that you ended up running fresh oil (one quart at a time) between oil changes and the air filters basically kept birds out of the carbs. Who would be concerned about microscopic bits that would pug up a carb needle and seat that hardly ever closed or a jet that changed delivered fuel volume every time the engine revved? After all that consider that DMH only thought our precious little Austin Healeys would last about 10 years before they would be junk or junked! I had 52 years of ownership out of ours and its not showing its age to bad at 62 years and one month as of yesterday. > Perry > > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Sep 25 01:38:50 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2017 09:38:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <20170924174921.7DCA125891A2@autox.team.net> <20170924153433.8CAO2.1662.root@pamxwww05-z01> <011901d33587$86617f70$93247e50$@nc.rr.com> Correct!! Kees Oudesluijs Op 25-9-2017 om 0:50 schreef Bob Simmen: > Would it be correct, that on my BJ8 that has been sitting for 25 years, when I blew the fuel line with air from the pump to the tank due to a clogged line or filter, and it suddenly opened up, I probably blew a clogged filter off the end of the pickup line inside the tank? > > Then, would it also be correct, that if I now have a filter between the tank and the fuel pump, the only negative would be that I now have just one more rattle? > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts > Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 3:35 PM > To: Perry ; healeylist > Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery > > Mine was not an aftermarket tsnk. It was an original. It was filled with debris when I took it out. > Tom > ---- Perry wrote: > > ============= > All aftermarket tanks that I have taken a part did not have the slide over plastic screen. Its only a filter in a general sense as it will pass fairly large particles compared to any of the modern inline filters available today. Hey in the old days we didn?t worry to much about filtering things. The engines leaked enough that you ended up running fresh oil (one quart at a time) between oil changes and the air filters basically kept birds out of the carbs. Who would be concerned about microscopic bits that would pug up a carb needle and seat that hardly ever closed or a jet that changed delivered fuel volume every time the engine revved? After all that consider that DMH only thought our precious little Austin Healeys would last about 10 years before they would be junk or junked! I had 52 years of ownership out of ours and its not showing its age to bad at 62 years and one month as of yesterday. > Perry > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2017 12:09 PM > To: Tom Felts; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery > > Thanks. I suspect aftermarket tanks may not have it. > > Bob > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rsimmen at nc.rr.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From warthodson at aol.com Mon Sep 25 08:52:07 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2017 10:52:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery I cannot find my photos of the filter on the end of the fuel tank pick-up, but as I recall, it was very well secured to the tube & it is unlikely that you could have blown it off. Also, as I recall, if you have an original style fuel pump, it has a check valve built into it which will prevent fuel from flowing backwards thru the pump. You may have damaged this depending on the air pressure you use when you blew backwards thru the pump. This might apply to after market pumps, too. If the tank has been sitting for 25 years, imagine what it might look like inside! I would remove it & at the least, have it thoroughly flushed out. If the tank has ever been coated inside with one of those proprietary coating products is likely that the coating is separating & clogging the inlet screen. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob Simmen To: 'healeylist' Sent: Sun, Sep 24, 2017 9:05 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery Would it be correct, that on my BJ8 that has been sitting for 25 years, when I blew the fuel line with air from the pump to the tank due to a clogged line or filter, and it suddenly opened up, I probably blew a clogged filter off the end of the pickup line inside the tank? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 25 09:19:54 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2017 08:19:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fiberglass Body Parts References: <001501d33483$32abb3f0$98031bd0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Have a customer that several years ago had made some Carbon Fiber Fenders. I was told that they are a perfect fit. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Simon Lachlan Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2017 8:47 AM To: 'Jonathan Einhorn' ; 'healey list' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fiberglass Body Parts Years ago I bought my car from John Chatham?he was selling it for a customer. Anyhow, the famous DD800 (is that the right number?) was there. Nearby was a stack of fibre glass front wings..?Oh, yes. Those are for racing. We smash one, we stick another one right on?. Doesn?t help you, but it amused me at the time. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonathan Einhorn Sent: 23 September 2017 13:34 To: healey list Subject: [Healeys] Fiberglass Body Parts My racecar was hit at Lime Rock this Labor Day (assaulted by a Ferrari 250SW), and I'm looking for a replacement fiberglass front shroud or patches for the front. I've got extra fiberglass fenders: does anyone have a fiberglass front shroud or pieces of one I can use for patching the front? thanks jon -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0040[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 33187 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Mon Sep 25 09:39:01 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2017 11:39:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery References: <011901d33587$86617f70$93247e50$@nc.rr.com> <15eb9861b90-c0c-1602@webjas-vaa077.srv.aolmail.net> Thanks to everyone for the information! The tank was removed, flushed, and cleaned. (I did not have to imagine what it looked like, I saw it, and what a mess!!!!) after cleaning, no inside coating was applied due to concern with clogging the line pickup filter or screen at the bottom of the tank. After replacement of the tank, there was fuel flowing through the lines, but at a reduced rate. A filter was placed between the tank and the pump, consequently it was easy to remove this filter and blow air directly into the fuel line and into the tank without going through the pump. All is working great now. If the filter is well secured to the tube, it is then more probable that the filter was just cleared of 25 years of ?crud?. Again, thanks for everyone?s information! Bob From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Monday, September 25, 2017 10:52 AM To: rsimmen at nc.rr.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery I cannot find my photos of the filter on the end of the fuel tank pick-up, but as I recall, it was very well secured to the tube & it is unlikely that you could have blown it off. Also, as I recall, if you have an original style fuel pump, it has a check valve built into it which will prevent fuel from flowing backwards thru the pump. You may have damaged this depending on the air pressure you use when you blew backwards thru the pump. This might apply to after market pumps, too. If the tank has been sitting for 25 years, imagine what it might look like inside! I would remove it & at the least, have it thoroughly flushed out. If the tank has ever been coated inside with one of those proprietary coating products is likely that the coating is separating & clogging the inlet screen. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- Sent: Sun, Sep 24, 2017 9:05 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery Would it be correct, that on my BJ8 that has been sitting for 25 years, when I blew the fuel line with air from the pump to the tank due to a clogged line or filter, and it suddenly opened up, I probably blew a clogged filter off the end of the pickup line inside the tank? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Sep 25 11:26:20 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2017 10:26:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times References: <007101d334ec$0d4ca790$27e5f6b0$@roadrunner.com> <023901d33545$d0efd330$72cf7990$@bighealey.org> <019f01d3358f$2aa70260$7ff50720$@roadrunner.com> sometimes just removing a connector and reconnecting it can clean up oxidization of the bits. I'd take emery cloth of very fine file and clean up all of the connecting surfaces. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sun, Sep 24, 2017 at 4:45 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > Well, today I took the sender back to the boot and hooked it up to the > gauge wire and the ground, and it works fine as I raise and lower the > float. No idea why it is working now, but as soon as I get a new gasket > I?ll put it back in the tank and ensure the connections are sound and hope > it works in there. Weird. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Al > Fuller > *Sent:* Sunday, September 24, 2017 8:00 AM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times > > > > Hey Bruce: > > > > It sounds like you still have a gremlin lurking somewhere in the harness? > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Bruce Steele > *Sent:* Sunday, September 24, 2017 12:18 AM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Fuel gauge reading full at all times > > > > After the harness meltdown, which impacted the battery lead to the fuel > gauge, the gauge has read full and there is currently about ? in the tank. > The gauge has been checked twice and pronounced OK. Today I bypassed the > tank-sender wire with a jumper, same result?reading full. I removed the > sender and bench tested the resistance and got 2 ohms with the float fully > down and around 70 ohms with the float lifted to approximately where it > would be in a full tank. From what I can find online this is in range. So > I?m stumped as to why the gauge is reading full. Thoughts? > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Sep 25 12:48:04 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2017 14:48:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery so it did have a filter over the PU line. That is what I had and in spite of some who doubted it. it was there---apparently from and as original. tom ---- warthodson at aol.com wrote: ============= I cannot find my photos of the filter on the end of the fuel tank pick-up, but as I recall, it was very well secured to the tube & it is unlikely that you could have blown it off. Also, as I recall, if you have an original style fuel pump, it has a check valve built into it which will prevent fuel from flowing backwards thru the pump. You may have damaged this depending on the air pressure you use when you blew backwards thru the pump. This might apply to after market pumps, too. From warthodson at aol.com Mon Sep 25 16:52:44 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2017 18:52:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A Mystery Yes, it did have a filter on the end of the PU line. Gary -----Original Message----- From: Tom Felts To: rsimmen ; warthodson ; healeys Sent: Mon, Sep 25, 2017 1:48 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Mystery so it did have a filter over the PU line. That is what I had and in spite of some who doubted it. it was there---apparently from and as original. tom ---- warthodson at aol.com wrote: ============= I cannot find my photos of the filter on the end of the fuel tank pick-up, but as I recall, it was very well secured to the tube & it is unlikely that you could have blown it off. Also, as I recall, if you have an original style fuel pump, it has a check valve built into it which will prevent fuel from flowing backwards thru the pump. You may have damaged this depending on the air pressure you use when you blew backwards thru the pump. This might apply to after market pumps, too. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Sep 26 09:08:30 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 11:08:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bearing markings Just removed main and rod bearing caps and found following markings: Main: "County Regd UK" and "M3327/2 STD 5 Rods: "C 3 STD" and "C4022 AM" Obviously the main came from Moss or equivalent. What about the rod bearing--does anyone recognize that designation: If it makes any difference the rod bearing does not seem to be of tri-metal construction but rather simply AL. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Sep 26 10:28:36 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 10:28:36 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Bearing markings References: Can't see any similar #'s in my Vandervell book.. they show VP 236 for rods and VP 237 Mains (all)? if that's any help... On 9/26/2017 9:08 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > Just removed main and rod bearing caps and found following markings: > > Main: ?"County Regd UK" and "M3327/2 STD 5 > Rods: ?"C 3 STD" and "C4022 AM" > > Obviously the main came from Moss or equivalent.? What about the rod > bearing--does anyone recognize that designation: ?If it makes any > difference the rod bearing does not seem to be of tri-metal > construction but rather simply AL. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Tue Sep 26 13:54:13 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 15:54:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics References: I didn't make it out to the track this year so didn't get a chance to see the races and only today watched the one-hour overview on CBS SN of the historics. I enjoyed watching the race with the mid-1950s production cars, which was won by a white Healey 3000 that they said had an "S" designation for "Sebring." Does anyone know anything about this car or its owner and prep? G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Sep 26 18:23:55 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2017 00:23:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Speedi Sleeve References: <2146538420.220660.1506471835293.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Has anyone used a Speedi Sleeve on the rear axle for the hub seals.? Anyone know offhand which Speedi Sleeve fits?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Tue Sep 26 18:29:39 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 20:29:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Moss motors web site When trying to look up something on the Moss Motors site today I first got no response [error message that the server could not be found], then later what appears to be a different [?new?] website - with a banner at the top asking if I have changed my password for the new site. I would have thought if they were going to change the site and require re-authentication, they would have warned the community. Does anyone know if this is legit, before I click on the link and input my credentials? Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Tue Sep 26 18:35:25 2017 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Rossm) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 18:35:25 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] canadian drivers championship healey - Google Search This nay help? https://www.google.ca/search?q=canadian+drivers+championship+healey&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-ca&client=safari Sent from my iPhone From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue Sep 26 19:39:07 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2017 11:39:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Speedi Sleeve References: <2146538420.220660.1506471835293.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2146538420.220660.1506471835293@mail.yahoo.com> ...yes I have Mike ? but you need to measure the unworn journal diameter in 3 places (ie at 120 deg spacing) & take the mean. The bearing shop will tell you the correct size sleeve. Cheers Peter From: Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 10:23 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Speedi Sleeve Has anyone used a Speedi Sleeve on the rear axle for the hub seals. Anyone know offhand which Speedi Sleeve fits? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Sep 26 19:53:17 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 21:53:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Moss motors web site References: <063d01d33727$b584d530$208e7f90$@bighealey.org> Al, Legit. I got an email from Moss on the 21st advising me to print out my wish list as the website would be updated on the 26th and existing wish lists would be lost. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/26/2017 08:29 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > When trying to look up something on the Moss Motors site today I first > got no response [error message that the server could not be found], then > later what appears to be a different [?new?] website ? with a banner at > the top asking if I have changed my password for the new site. > > I would have thought if they were going to change the site and require > re-authentication, they would have warned the community? > > Does anyone know if this is legit, before I click on the link and input > my credentials? > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Sep 26 19:57:25 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2017 01:57:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Moss motors web site References: <063d01d33727$b584d530$208e7f90$@bighealey.org> They sent me an email telling me to print out my wish list because the web site was going to change.Mike MacLean On Tuesday, September 26, 2017 6:51 PM, Al Fuller wrote: When trying to look up something on the Moss Motors site today I first got no response [error message that the server could not be found], then later what appears to be a different [?new?] website ? with a banner at the top asking if I have changed my password for the new site. ?I would have thought if they were going to change the site and require re-authentication, they would have warned the community? ?Does anyone know if this is legit, before I click on the link and input my credentials?? ?Al Fulleral at bighealey dot org'65 BJ-8'85 Rx-7 ?_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From amalin at mac.com Tue Sep 26 20:53:06 2017 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 22:53:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Moss motors web site References: <063d01d33727$b584d530$208e7f90$@bighealey.org> I get the same result. I was not required to enter a password to simply lookup a part. Al Malin Tricarb > On Sep 26, 2017, at 8:29 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > > When trying to look up something on the Moss Motors site today I first got no response [error message that the server could not be found], then later what appears to be a different [?new?] website ? with a banner at the top asking if I have changed my password for the new site. > > I would have thought if they were going to change the site and require re-authentication, they would have warned the community? > > Does anyone know if this is legit, before I click on the link and input my credentials? > > Al Fuller > al at bighealey dot org > '65 BJ-8 > '85 Rx-7 > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Sep 26 21:23:14 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 20:23:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Moss motors web site References: <063d01d33727$b584d530$208e7f90$@bighealey.org> seems new and legit to me and actually looks pretty good. typically they fix stuff that's not broken. You can always give them a call and confirm - Customer Service: 800-689-9313 <1-800-689-9313> Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 5:29 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > When trying to look up something on the Moss Motors site today I first got > no response [error message that the server could not be found], then later > what appears to be a different [?new?] website ? with a banner at the top > asking if I have changed my password for the new site. > > > > I would have thought if they were going to change the site and require > re-authentication, they would have warned the community? > > > > Does anyone know if this is legit, before I click on the link and input my > credentials? > > > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Sep 26 22:07:42 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2017 21:07:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Moss motors web site References: <063d01d33727$b584d530$208e7f90$@bighealey.org> Looks legit to me.? They were due for a facelift. Often, a website rework requires significant database changes, and since passwords are--or at least should be--stored (one way) encrypted, they're sometimes 'flushed.' Bob On 9/26/2017 5:29 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > > When trying to look up something on the Moss Motors site today I first > got no response [error message that the server could not be found], > then later what appears to be a different [?new?] website ? with a > banner at the top asking if I have changed my password for the new site. > > I would have thought if they were going to change the site and require > re-authentication, they would have warned the community? > > Does anyone know if this is legit, before I click on the link and > input my credentials? > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Wed Sep 27 07:37:18 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2017 09:37:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Moss motors web site References: <063d01d33727$b584d530$208e7f90$@bighealey.org> <07ad94e8-c7a4-3173-9c54-a9fa9aaae1b4@earthlink.net> OK - good to know! Thanks, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell [mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net] Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 9:53 PM To: Al Fuller ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Moss motors web site Al, Legit. I got an email from Moss on the 21st advising me to print out my wish list as the website would be updated on the 26th and existing wish lists would be lost. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 09/26/2017 08:29 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > When trying to look up something on the Moss Motors site today I first > got no response [error message that the server could not be found], > then later what appears to be a different [?new?] website - with a > banner at the top asking if I have changed my password for the new site. > > I would have thought if they were going to change the site and require > re-authentication, they would have warned the community. > > Does anyone know if this is legit, before I click on the link and > input my credentials? > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From steveg at abrazosdata.com Wed Sep 27 17:46:17 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2017 15:46:17 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Moss_web_site?= I attended a tech session by a Moss representative at Healey Week. He mentioned their new web site was in beta and we'd be seeing it soon. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of most complete big healey rear disc kit From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Sep 27 18:11:42 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 00:11:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Differential Locked References: <1103100898.91241.1506557502508.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Finally installed the pumpkin in the newly painted differential case today.? Used Hylomar to seal it.? The paper gasket from Moss did not fit very well.? I needed to use my single hole paper punch to get it to fit.? Tightened it down and now the output flange is locked in place.? It moves back and forth a fraction of an inch but stops with a decided metallic clunk.? No, I did not install it upside down.? That actually can not be done the way the ring gear is "keyed" into the casing.? What the heck?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Sep 27 18:28:16 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2017 17:28:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Moss web site References: <20170927234617.5963.qmail@hoster902.com> The new website looks pretty good to me (I was a web developer for the last few years).? That shouldn't be remarkable, but having had to go to the trouble to freeze my credit reports and get the--supposedly--free monitoring from Equifax I think it's an accomplishment (I haven't placed any orders with Moss since the rework).? I'm appalled at how bad some business websites are, esp. after a facelift; many have busted links, dead-end pages, "you'll get an email from us" that never comes, out-of-date certs, etc. I guess it's the new norm: let the public beta test your website, your application, your car, your pacemaker ... Bob On 9/27/2017 4:46 PM, Steve B. Gerow wrote: > I attended a tech session by a Moss representative at Healey Week. He mentioned their new web site was in beta and we'd be seeing it soon. > From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 27 19:26:28 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2017 18:26:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Differential Locked References: <1103100898.91241.1506557502508.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1103100898.91241.1506557502508@mail.yahoo.com> Paper gaskets commonly shrink. Soak in water for a few minutes prior to installing Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 27, 2017, at 5:11 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Finally installed the pumpkin in the newly painted differential case today. Used Hylomar to seal it. The paper gasket from Moss did not fit very well. I needed to use my single hole paper punch to get it to fit. Tightened it down and now the output flange is locked in place. It moves back and forth a fraction of an inch but stops with a decided metallic clunk. No, I did not install it upside down. That actually can not be done the way the ring gear is "keyed" into the casing. What the heck? > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Sep 27 19:28:00 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 01:28:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Differential Locked addendum References: <688191261.125266.1506562080450.ref@mail.yahoo.com> In addition to the output flange not moving except for about an inch of rotation back and forth both axles were slipped in place just to check movement.? You can rotate the axle flange through complete rotation and the opposite flange turns in the opposite direction, but the output flange does not move.? What did I do wrong putting the pumpkin in the axle casing?? The output shaft would turn easily while the pumpkin was out.? I know I am going to have to take the pumpkin our again, but how did I put it in wrong?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Sep 27 19:30:09 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 01:30:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Differential Locked References: <1103100898.91241.1506557502508.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1103100898.91241.1506557502508@mail.yahoo.com> I'll use that method when I re-install the pumpkin when I figure out the problem. Thanks Dave.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Sep 27, 2017 at 6:26 PM, David Nock wrote: Paper gaskets commonly shrink. Soak in water for a few minutes prior to installing? Sent from my iPhone On Sep 27, 2017, at 5:11 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: Finally installed the pumpkin in the newly painted differential case today.? Used Hylomar to seal it.? The paper gasket from Moss did not fit very well.? I needed to use my single hole paper punch to get it to fit.? Tightened it down and now the output flange is locked in place.? It moves back and forth a fraction of an inch but stops with a decided metallic clunk.? No, I did not install it upside down.? That actually can not be done the way the ring gear is "keyed" into the casing.? What the heck?Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Thu Sep 28 02:07:19 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 10:07:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Differential Locked References: <1103100898.91241.1506557502508.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1103100898.91241.1506557502508@mail.yahoo.com> <1823913573.142282.1506562209730@mail.yahoo.com> How about the top or bottom cover set screw being too long? Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 28 sep. 2017 kl. 03:30 skrev Michael MacLean : > > I'll use that method when I re-install the pumpkin when I figure out the problem. Thanks Dave. > Mike MacLean > > From drmasucci at comcast.net Thu Sep 28 04:46:53 2017 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 06:46:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair References: <8389C08E-2A56-45B3-B776-B30990832EFB@comcast.net> Hi All, I want to thank all who responded with comments and pictures to my question on shroud repair. Appreciate the help and research!! Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 From ab7vf at yahoo.com Thu Sep 28 09:14:08 2017 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 15:14:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Differential Locked addendum References: <688191261.125266.1506562080450.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <688191261.125266.1506562080450@mail.yahoo.com> From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 8:51 PM Subject: [Healeys] Differential Locked addendum ?You can rotate the axle flange through complete rotation and the opposite flange turns in the opposite direction, but the output flange does not move. Axles run on spider gears located in center of ring gear ... they are free to rotate even when ring gear is locked .. possible 'pumpkin' setting further into axle housing due to thinner gasket on reinstall//maybe drain plug fouling with ring gear? by 'output shaft' I assume you mean the pinion shaft which connects to the drive shaft Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Sep 28 10:15:48 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 16:15:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Differential Locked addendum References: <688191261.125266.1506562080450.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <688191261.125266.1506562080450@mail.yahoo.com> <159273106.481004.1506611648178@mail.yahoo.com> Yes, I am referring to the pinion shaft.? I will take out the drain plug to check, but I seem to remember seeing it flush with the inside surface case.? If the drain plug is not the problem I will loosen all the nuts and let the pumpkin drop out of the case a fraction of an inch and see if it moves then, if not it will have to come out for inspection.? I'll let everyone know what I find.Mike Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 8:18 AM, jim wrote: From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2017 8:51 PM Subject: [Healeys] Differential Locked addendum ?You can rotate the axle flange through complete rotation and the opposite flange turns in the opposite direction, but the output flange does not move. Axles run on spider gears located in center of ring gear ... they are free to rotate even when ring gear is locked .. possible 'pumpkin' setting further into axle housing due to thinner gasket on reinstall//maybe drain plug fouling with ring gear? by 'output shaft' I assume you mean the pinion shaft which connects to the drive shaft Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Thu Sep 28 10:38:52 2017 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 16:38:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Differential Locked addendum References: <688191261.125266.1506562080450.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <688191261.125266.1506562080450@mail.yahoo.com> <159273106.481004.1506611648178@mail.yahoo.com> <1276742489.526300.1506615348279@mail.yahoo.com> From: Michael MacLean To: "ab7vf at yahoo.com" ; Healey List Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2017 9:15 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Differential Locked addendum Yes, I am referring to the pinion shaft. Mike Could be a casting flash on the inside of the axle housing too ..I don't know where the separation line for the casting was Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbt71 at gmail.com Thu Sep 28 12:03:57 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 12:03:57 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fender Bead Question Hi All, I've got my patch panels for the lower part of the four wings. They all have a few inches of the wheel well beading extending beyond the top of the patch. All the usual vendors' pictures show this. Is this extra that I just cut off? I would be good, I suppose, to have it replace the equivalent bit of beading in the original, but I don't see how I could get the old bead out without mucking up the wing. I went ahead on one dog leg and cut that piece off and the new piece welded on fine. Should I have done something else? Thanks Again, Mike Tobin, Townsend, MT -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Sep 28 13:13:38 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 19:13:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Locked Differential OK References: <287620823.23546.1506626018652.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I take the blame for the ring gear being stuck in the carrier.? Today I pulled the pumpkin and the pinion shaft would still not rotate, except for the play that is supposed to be in it.? I found the ring gear immobile in the carrier.? It then dawned on me that the shop that had checked out my pumpkin had said it just needed some sludge cleaned out and it would be fine.? I proceeded to spray the gears with a degreaser.? It cleaned up well and everything still turned fine.? I guess I took so long getting the axle case hot tanked along with several days painting it that the ring gear stuck in place by a slight surface corrosion.? I sprayed it with some Busty and worked it back and forth a few times and now it turns easily and silently.? I reinstalled it in the case and it still turns very nicely.? I don't think I did any real damage and I am just going to go with it, but I am installing the back plates and hubs as soon as possible so I can put some gear oil in there and get it coated well.? I am my own worst enemy.? Thanks for all the suggestions from the list, but you all forgot the dumbass factor or were too kind to mention it.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Sep 28 16:34:35 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 15:34:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fender Bead Question References: Excellent question!? Next. JK.? I've had a couple of these sitting on the bench for years--I did a dogleg transplant years ago with the inferior ones that don't have the beading--and there's usually something more urgent to attend to.? But, I've given it thought, and can see two ways to do it: 1) take your measurements, cut the beading off square, position the dogleg, weld fill the gap and sand/grind/fill the joint as smooth as possible, or 2) leave about an inch of the bead, 'peel' back the bead on the wing, pull out an inch and cut it off.? Then, fit the patch panel, wrap the old metal around the 1" of bead, and somehow hammer it all back together Obviously, #2 is at going to be the strongest, though there shouldn't much stress here, but it could be a real trick to do it cleanly without making a mess of everything.? I've not had any cracking or other issues with my first repair with the inferior patch panels. What do the pro panel beaters say?? I'll bet BCS has done a few of these ;) Bob On 9/28/2017 11:03 AM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > I've got my patch panels for the lower part of the four wings.? They > all have a few inches of the wheel well beading extending beyond the > top of the patch. All the usual vendors' pictures show this.? Is this > extra that I just cut off?? I would be good, I suppose, to have it > replace the equivalent bit of beading in the original, but I don't see > how I could get the old bead out without mucking up the wing. > I went ahead on one dog leg and cut that piece off and the new piece > welded on fine.? Should I have done something else? > > Thanks Again, > Mike Tobin, Townsend, MT > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Sep 28 16:42:54 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 15:42:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Locked Differential OK References: <287620823.23546.1506626018652.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <287620823.23546.1506626018652@mail.yahoo.com> Good news, Mike. Here's a tip I learned the hard way: The 'snout' of the pumpkin, where the rear driveshaft yolk slides onto the pinion shaft splines, is beveled on the inside.? The big seal that seals the pinion shaft should be installed with its edge even with the INSIDE edge of the bevel (about a eighth of an inch in).? I installed one with the seal even with the end of the snout, and it leaked like crazy because the seal wasn't riding on the proper part of the yolk. Bob On 9/28/2017 12:13 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I take the blame for the ring gear being stuck in the carrier.? Today > I pulled the pumpkin and the pinion shaft would still not rotate, > except for the play that is supposed to be in it.? I found the ring > gear immobile in the carrier.? It then dawned on me that the shop that > had checked out my pumpkin had said it just needed some sludge cleaned > out and it would be fine.? I proceeded to spray the gears with a > degreaser.? It cleaned up well and everything still turned fine.? I > guess I took so long getting the axle case hot tanked along with > several days painting it that the ring gear stuck in place by a slight > surface corrosion.? I sprayed it with some Busty and worked it back > and forth a few times and now it turns easily and silently.? I > reinstalled it in the case and it still turns very nicely.? I don't > think I did any real damage and I am just going to go with it, but I > am installing the back plates and hubs as soon as possible so I can > put some gear oil in there and get it coated well.? I am my own worst > enemy.? Thanks for all the suggestions from the list, but you all > forgot the dumbass factor or were too kind to mention it. > Mike MacLean > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 28 17:13:51 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 16:13:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fender Bead Question References: Ideally you would bend back the metal to cut the existing metal bead so the new metal bead can go beyond the repair panel. Now you have a hinge point that will be a little weaker. John Spaur San Jose, CA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2017 11:04 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fender Bead Question Hi All, I've got my patch panels for the lower part of the four wings. They all have a few inches of the wheel well beading extending beyond the top of the patch. All the usual vendors' pictures show this. Is this extra that I just cut off? I would be good, I suppose, to have it replace the equivalent bit of beading in the original, but I don't see how I could get the old bead out without mucking up the wing. I went ahead on one dog leg and cut that piece off and the new piece welded on fine. Should I have done something else? Thanks Again, Mike Tobin, Townsend, MT -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Sep 28 18:44:19 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 17:44:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fender Bead Question References: Yes open up the seam and extend the wire into the wing, so that it provides a stiffer connection between the two pieces. New patch and old fender. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Sep 28, 2017 at 11:03 AM, Mike Tobin wrote: > Hi All, > I've got my patch panels for the lower part of the four wings. They all > have a few inches of the wheel well beading extending beyond the top of the > patch. All the usual vendors' pictures show this. Is this extra that I > just cut off? I would be good, I suppose, to have it replace the > equivalent bit of beading in the original, but I don't see how I could get > the old bead out without mucking up the wing. > I went ahead on one dog leg and cut that piece off and the new piece > welded on fine. Should I have done something else? > > Thanks Again, > Mike Tobin, Townsend, MT > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhomonek at mindspring.com Fri Sep 29 08:23:21 2017 From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2017 10:23:21 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [Healeys] All Healey Event in Two Weeks - Not too Late! Less than 2 weeks away. Make your plans today to join us for SE Classic XXXI. This event is becoming a mini Conclave with over 80 Registrations. The rural area and location are outstanding for Healey Fall Driving. 2017 Austin Healey Southeastern Classic The Atlanta Chapter of the Austin Healey Club of America is proud to announce that the 2017 Southeastern Classic will return to Lake Guntersville Sate Park in Northeast Alabama. October 12-15, 2017. You don?t want to miss this one. It will be a great time to spend with old and new friends experiencing wonderful fall temperatures, brilliant colors and magnificent sunsets at the Lake Guntersville Resort Lodge located high above the banks of the Tennessee River. There will be a full schedule of Healey activities including lakeside Car Show, Poker Rally, Gymkhana, Funkhana, Regalia, Valve Cover races, awards banquet and of course some Friday night fun and laughter. If that?s not enough, there will be free time to relax with friends, go antiquing in town, visit local vineyards, explore hiking trails, go caving, golfing or just drive your Austin Healey on the numerous back country roads. Many area attractions are also nearby such as the Huntsville Space Center. We have completed the set-up for on-line registration using this shortcut link: www.msreg.com/SEClassic. We have incorporated many features and content into the registration website to make it informative and user friendly. A .pdf version of the registration form is available upon request. FYI, the telephone number for room registration at Lake Guntersville State Park is 256-505-6621 and the group code is 5792 for our Austin Healey car show. See links for YouTube videos on the Southeastern Classic: 2017 SEC video: https://youtu.be/mSRfJJs0S-E 2016 SEC video: https://youtu.be/03-9bRQzk9U Please let us know if you have any questions. See you in a couple weeks! See more and register online here:http://atlantahealeys.org/events/se-classic-xxxi-save-date-oct-12-15-2017/. John Homonek Atlanta AHCA 1959 BN7 1974 Jensen-Healey bn7 at mindspring.com From ab7vf at yahoo.com Fri Sep 29 09:42:10 2017 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2017 15:42:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Locked Differential OK References: <287620823.23546.1506626018652.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <287620823.23546.1506626018652@mail.yahoo.com> From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2017 3:00 PM Subject: [Healeys] Locked Differential OK ?but you all forgot the dumbass factor or were too kind to mention it.Mike MacLean Ha .. I'm quite certain we've all been there at one time or another Glad it all worked out Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Sep 29 12:51:43 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2017 14:51:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil release valve plunger stuck Further to my post of a few days ago about low oil pressure I pulled the bottom end apart and will be replacing rod and main bearings. I removed the oil release valve cap nut and spring but cannot get the valve itself--the plunger--out. I had a small magnet probe that seemed to go all the way into the plunger's recess but it would not extract the part. Is there some trick here? I had it out a number of years ago and do not remember encountering any problem. I could probably pass a tap into it from the side and engage the inside of the plunger so I could extract it but there must be some better way. Suggestions/experience appreciated. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Sep 29 13:24:13 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2017 12:24:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics References: <15ebfc10a4a-c08-a3df@webjas-vad069.srv.aolmail.net> 100-6 S yes, 3000 S no. do not know this car Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 12:54 PM, wrote: > I didn't make it out to the track this year so didn't get a chance to see > the races and only today watched the one-hour overview on CBS SN of the > historics. I enjoyed watching the race with the mid-1950s production cars, > which was won by a white Healey 3000 that they said had an "S" designation > for "Sebring." > > Does anyone know anything about this car or its owner and prep? > > G. > > *Gary Anderson* > Los Altos, California > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sebring3000 at bigpond.com Sat Sep 30 01:44:56 2017 From: sebring3000 at bigpond.com (sebring3000 sebring3000) Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2017 17:44:56 +1000 (AEST) Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics References: <15ebfc10a4a-c08-a3df@webjas-vad069.srv.aolmail.net> Gary I assume this is the car Healeys bult for the Canadian distributor and was owned and restored by Bill Bolton back in the late 70s early 80s ? ?It had a history racing in Canada by ?????? ?I cannot remember the name but it is reasonably listed in the cars history. Joe ------ Original Message ------ From: editorgary at aol.com To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, 27 Sep, 2017 At 5:54 AM Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics I didn't make it out to the track this year so didn't get a chance to see the races and only today watched the one-hour overview on CBS SN of the historics. I enjoyed watching the race with the mid-1950s production cars, which was won by a white Healey 3000 that they said had an "S" designation for "Sebring." ? ? Does anyone know anything about this car or its owner and prep? ? ? G. ? ? Gary Anderson Los Altos, California ? ? ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys sebring3000 at bigpond.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sebring3000 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sat Sep 30 08:12:23 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2017 14:12:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics References: <15ebfc10a4a-c08-a3df@webjas-vad069.srv.aolmail.net> <65572c46.16e421.15ed1beceea.Webtop.95@bigpond.com> ?Kevin Adair, who now owns it,?drove the #171, 1960 ex-Grant ClarkCanadian Championship winning DHM Works prepared big Healey, to an outright winat the 2017 RolexMonterey Historic Reunion Group 1B 1955-1962 GT Cars.? The two attached files contain much of thecar?s history. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada????????? ? - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Saturday, September 30, 2017 4:09 AM, sebring3000 sebring3000 wrote: GaryI assume this is the car Healeys bult for the Canadian distributor and was owned and restored by Bill Bolton back in the late 70s early 80s ? ?It had a history racing in Canada by ?????? ?I cannot remember the name but it is reasonably listed in the cars history. Joe ------ Original Message ------ From: editorgary at aol.com To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, 27 Sep, 2017 At 5:54 AM Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics I didn't make it out to the track this year so didn't get a chance to see the races and only today watched the one-hour overview on CBS SN of the historics. I enjoyed watching the race with the mid-1950s production cars, which was won by a white Healey 3000 that they said had an "S" designation for "Sebring." ? ?Does anyone know anything about this car or its owner and prep? ? ?G. ? ?Gary Anderson Los Altos, California ? ? ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Grant Clark's Championship Healey by Bill Emerson.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1424556 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Grant Clark's Championship Healey-RM Auction 11-06-23.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 866530 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyron at yahoo.com Sat Sep 30 08:32:38 2017 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2017 14:32:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics References: <15ebfc10a4a-c08-a3df@webjas-vad069.srv.aolmail.net> <65572c46.16e421.15ed1beceea.Webtop.95@bigpond.com> The car was driven by Grant Clark.? Here is an article on the car.?? 1960 Canadian Drivers Championship Winning Austin-Healey To Go To Monterey | | | | | | | | | | | 1960 Canadian Drivers Championship Winning Austin-Healey To Go To Monterey This past week I have been assisting Californian Dr. Kevin Adair as he prepares to take his 1959 Austin-Healey 3... | | | Ron Mitchell1959 BN6 On Saturday, September 30, 2017, 4:14:48 AM EDT, sebring3000 sebring3000 wrote: GaryI assume this is the car Healeys bult for the Canadian distributor and was owned and restored by Bill Bolton back in the late 70s early 80s ? ?It had a history racing in Canada by ?????? ?I cannot remember the name but it is reasonably listed in the cars history. Joe ------ Original Message ------ From: editorgary at aol.com To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, 27 Sep, 2017 At 5:54 AM Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics I didn't make it out to the track this year so didn't get a chance to see the races and only today watched the one-hour overview on CBS SN of the historics. I enjoyed watching the race with the mid-1950s production cars, which was won by a white Healey 3000 that they said had an "S" designation for "Sebring." ? ?Does anyone know anything about this car or its owner and prep? ? ?G. ? ?Gary Anderson Los Altos, California ? ? ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Sep 30 08:53:21 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2017 08:53:21 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Thank You Dave Porter References: <6F3DEFDE-29B9-48DE-AA95-6C3CA6F2A7A0@gmail.com> Randy, et al Thanks for the kind words. It's always fun to help out travelers.. As to the threading.. I believe it's more a matter of the NAPA part not having the pipe taper. Dave On 9/30/2017 5:53 AM, Randy Hicks wrote: > Nevervsaw this come thru the list. Trying again. > > Randy > >> Begin forwarded message: >> >> *Subject: **Thank You Dave Porter* >> *Date: *September 28, 2017 at 5:45:06 PM MDT >> *To: *Healey List > >> I?d like to take this opportunity to thank Dave Porter (Albuquerque, >> NM) for going above and beyond. >> >> During our cross country adventure in the Healeys a couple cars >> developed ?issues?. Surprise, surprise! >> >> One starter gone, one failing brake light pressure switch (no brake >> lights) and one car with serious brake issues. >> >> Dave on very short notice cleared out the shop and dealt masterfully >> with the first issues this afternoon. We?ll be back on the road to >> the east coast tomorrow thanks to Dave. Super guy and a true master. >> >> Thanks again Dave. >> >> Randy >> >> PS: the NAPA (SL143) BJ8 brake pressure switch does not have the >> correct threads. Dave re-threaded and it is perfect now. >> >> > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick at ewilkins.com Sat Sep 30 11:43:25 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2017 10:43:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics References: <15ebfc10a4a-c08-a3df@webjas-vad069.srv.aolmail.net> <65572c46.16e421.15ed1beceea.Webtop.95@bigpond.com> Can?t find the 3000 S, but I did find this from that race: " Paul Freestone Keilor Victoria 1962 Austin Healey BN4 01:55.0 9" > On Sep 30, 2017, at 12:44 AM, sebring3000 sebring3000 wrote: > > Gary > I assume this is the car Healeys bult for the Canadian distributor and was owned and restored by Bill Bolton back in the late 70s early 80s ? It had a history racing in Canada by ?????? I cannot remember the name but it is reasonably listed in the cars history. > > Joe > > > > ------ Original Message ------ > From: editorgary at aol.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, 27 Sep, 2017 At 5:54 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics > > > I didn't make it out to the track this year so didn't get a chance to see the races and only today watched the one-hour overview on CBS SN of the historics. I enjoyed watching the race with the mid-1950s production cars, which was won by a white Healey 3000 that they said had an "S" designation for "Sebring." > > > > > Does anyone know anything about this car or its owner and prep? > > > > > G. > > > > > > Gary Anderson > Los Altos, California > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: sebring3000 at bigpond.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sebring3000 at bigpond.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Sep 30 15:34:11 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2017 08:34:11 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics References: <15ebfc10a4a-c08-a3df@webjas-vad069.srv.aolmail.net> <65572c46.16e421.15ed1beceea.Webtop.95@bigpond.com> <677755697.262355.1506780744389@mail.yahoo.com> Hello CAN 171 and 57 FAC are two different cars. The former is a BN7 that was DHMC prepared for Austin Canada and 57 FAC is a BJ7 that was the reserve car for Sebring 1963 and was sold to Austin Canada afterwards. To confuse the issue Austin Canada used photos of CAN 171 in later publicity following successes of 57 FAC. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of J. Scott Morris Sent: Sunday, 1 October 2017 12:12 AM To: sebring3000 sebring3000; editorgary at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics Kevin Adair, who now owns it, drove the #171, 1960 ex-Grant Clark Canadian Championship winning DHM Works prepared big Healey, to an outright win at the 2017 Rolex Monterey Historic Reunion Group 1B 1955-1962 GT Cars. The two attached files contain much of the car?s history. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Saturday, September 30, 2017 4:09 AM, sebring3000 sebring3000 wrote: Gary I assume this is the car Healeys bult for the Canadian distributor and was owned and restored by Bill Bolton back in the late 70s early 80s ? It had a history racing in Canada by ?????? I cannot remember the name but it is reasonably listed in the cars history. Joe ------ Original Message ------ From: editorgary at aol.com To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, 27 Sep, 2017 At 5:54 AM Subject: [Healeys] Austin-Healey 3000S in Monterey Historics I didn't make it out to the track this year so didn't get a chance to see the races and only today watched the one-hour overview on CBS SN of the historics. I enjoyed watching the race with the mid-1950s production cars, which was won by a white Healey 3000 that they said had an "S" designation for "Sebring." Does anyone know anything about this car or its owner and prep? G. Gary Anderson Los Altos, California _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Healey100M at gmail.com Thu Sep 28 17:45:26 2017 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2017 23:45:26 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Thank You Dave Porter I?d like to take this opportunity to thank Dave Porter (Albuquerque, NM) for going above and beyond. During our cross country adventure in the Healeys a couple cars developed ?issues?. Surprise, surprise! One starter gone, one failing brake light pressure switch (no brake lights) and one car with serious brake issues. Dave on very short notice cleared out the shop and dealt masterfully with the first issues this afternoon. We?ll be back on the road to the east coast tomorrow thanks to Dave. Super guy and a true master. Thanks again Dave. Randy PS: the NAPA (SL143) BJ8 brake pressure switch does not have the correct threads. Dave re-threaded and it is perfect now. From Healey100M at gmail.com Sat Sep 30 05:55:24 2017 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2017 11:55:24 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Thank You Dave Porter References: <6F3DEFDE-29B9-48DE-AA95-6C3CA6F2A7A0@gmail.com> Nevervsaw this come thru the list. Trying again. Randy > Begin forwarded message: > > Subject: Thank You Dave Porter > Date: September 28, 2017 at 5:45:06 PM MDT > > I?d like to take this opportunity to thank Dave Porter (Albuquerque, NM) for going above and beyond. > > During our cross country adventure in the Healeys a couple cars developed ?issues?. Surprise, surprise! > > One starter gone, one failing brake light pressure switch (no brake lights) and one car with serious brake issues. > > Dave on very short notice cleared out the shop and dealt masterfully with the first issues this afternoon. We?ll be back on the road to the east coast tomorrow thanks to Dave. Super guy and a true master. > > Thanks again Dave. > > Randy > > PS: the NAPA (SL143) BJ8 brake pressure switch does not have the correct threads. Dave re-threaded and it is perfect now. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: