From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Aug 1 06:07:09 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2017 08:07:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Test References: <47B8018A53F7435889761B57EF4E61C0@DavidNockHP> I am getting the same problem but with a different email provider. Recently Verizon bought (ugh) AOL and they transitioned their email accounts to AOL servers. Since that time, I have had to go into AOL?s spam folder daily to get my Healey list emails. So far AOL has been extremely uncooperative. No surprise there. Their response is ?we are trying to protect you? Reminds me of years ago when I tried to cancel AOL and they refused to let me do so stating that if I did, I would not be able to get emails. I finally had to cancel the credit card that I was using for their billing as they kept hitting it, the credit card company would reverse the charges and then it would happen again the next month. Finally when their billing was rejected they turned me over to a collection agency for non payment. A strong letter to the FCC and the state Attorney General got an apology from them. Seems that they had a client retention bonus program and their customer disservice weenies were collecting points for screwing with me. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick Sent: Monday, July 31, 2017 8:14 PM To: David Nock BCS Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Test OK, Guys. Try this. See in the message I received from David where it says it wasn't sent to spam because of a filter I created? You need to create a filter using "healeys at autox.team.net" as the search term. Go here and it will tell you how to do it: https://support.google.com/mail/answer/6579?hl=en &authuser=2 Best of luck and email me if it doesn't work. Rick Neville On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 4:40 PM, David Nock BCS wrote: Mine to if you find the answer please let me know David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Sent: Monday, July 31, 2017 11:15 AM Subject: [Healeys] Test Sorry to burden the list with a test but I have been having problems receiving posts of late. Apparently gmail likes to send them to spam no matter what I do and I am testing to see if my setting changes will allow this email to come through to me. Best--Michael Oritt _____ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Aug 2 15:45:31 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 17:45:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Low List Traffic Hello, Healeyphiles - There seems to have been little to no traffic on the list lately. Thought I would test the system by announcing that the BJ8 Registry has just added its 9000th car, which is very close to 51% of total production. The registry database has been a positive benefit to the Healey community in general, and to many individual BJ8 owners in particular. All of you BJ8 owners who have not contributed the details of your car to the registry (not to healeydata.com, ahexp.com, etc.) should really give me a chance to explain why you should if you have any doubts or reservations. I may already have the car entered under one or more previous owners and with information that you do not know. You can find the BJ8 questionnaire at http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8form/bj8quest.html If prompted for a user name: guest If prompted for a password: bighealey2013 That stuff has become necessary due to too many questionnaires being filled out by web robots. Thanks for your attention. I now return you to your regularly scheduled activities. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Wed Aug 2 16:31:49 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 22:31:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Low List Traffic References: <019101d30bd8$aa673b90$ff35b2b0$@rr.com> That is impressive! This does not mean that 9000 survive I suppose? Simon 100 owner ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys Sent: Wednesday, August 2, 2017 4:45 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Low List Traffic Hello, Healeyphiles - There seems to have been little to no traffic on the list lately. Thought I would test the system by announcing that the BJ8 Registry has just added its 9000th car, which is very close to 51% of total production. The registry database has been a positive benefit to the Healey community in general, and to many individual BJ8 owners in particular. All of you BJ8 owners who have not contributed the details of your car to the registry (not to healeydata.com, ahexp.com, etc.) should really give me a chance to explain why you should if you have any doubts or reservations. I may already have the car entered under one or more previous owners and with information that you do not know. You can find the BJ8 questionnaire at http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8form/bj8quest.html If prompted for a user name: guest If prompted for a password: bighealey2013 That stuff has become necessary due to too many questionnaires being filled out by web robots. Thanks for your attention. I now return you to your regularly scheduled activities. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Larry at patersondesign.ca Wed Aug 2 17:35:53 2017 From: Larry at patersondesign.ca (Larry Paterson) Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 17:35:53 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Rough running 100M Hi folks - here's one for you to ponder. For the past many years I've raced my 100M without a problem. Lately however at around 4500 RPM under load it balks and stutters running quite rough. I've checked timing, changed the condenser several times checked carbs and all the other usual stuff. When not under load it revs freely. The motor has a billet crank, roller rockers, aluminium head, 100S pistons, lightened flywheel etc and regularly ran up to 6500 - 7000 RPM with no issues. It also has a Mallory distributor and is running 24 degrees of advance. Any advice on where to look next would be much appreciated. Thanks Larry Paterson 100M, BN7, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Wed Aug 2 17:59:04 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 16:59:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Low List Traffic References: <019101d30bd8$aa673b90$ff35b2b0$@rr.com> Still a big number! Mike One of the 9000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On 8/2/2017 3:31 PM, Simon Griffin wrote: > > That is impressive! This does not mean that 9000 survive I suppose? > > > Simon > > 100 owner > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > BJ8Healeys > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 2, 2017 4:45 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Low List Traffic > > Hello, Healeyphiles - > > There seems to have been little to no traffic on the list lately. > Thought I would test the system by announcing that the BJ8 Registry > has just added its 9000th car, which is very close to 51% of total > production. The registry database has been a positive benefit to the > Healey community in general, and to many individual BJ8 owners in > particular. All of you BJ8 owners who have not contributed the > details of your car to the registry (not to healeydata.com, ahexp.com, > etc.) should really give me a chance to explain why you should if you > have any doubts or reservations. I may already have the car entered > under one or more previous owners and with information that you do not > know. > > You can find the BJ8 questionnaire at > http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8form/bj8quest.html > > > If prompted for a user name: guest > > If prompted for a password: bighealey2013 > > That stuff has become necessary due to too many questionnaires being > filled out by web robots. > > Thanks for your attention. I now return you to your regularly > scheduled activities. > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Aug 2 18:50:01 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 17:50:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rough running 100M References: <003301d30be8$16715280$4353f780$@ca> did you change the rotor? simple test. I have seen this happen with a bad rotor or even the carbon piece/and spring that connects the cap to the rotor. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 4:35 PM, Larry Paterson wrote: > Hi folks ? here?s one for you to ponder. For the past many years I?ve > raced my 100M without a problem. Lately however at around 4500 RPM under > load it balks and stutters running quite rough. I?ve checked timing, > changed the condenser several times checked carbs and all the other usual > stuff. When not under load it revs freely. The motor has a billet > crank, roller rockers, aluminium head, 100S pistons, lightened flywheel etc > and regularly ran up to 6500 ? 7000 RPM with no issues. It also has a > Mallory distributor and is running 24 degrees of advance. Any advice on > where to look next would be much appreciated. > > > > Thanks > > Larry Paterson > > 100M, BN7, > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Aug 2 18:51:15 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 17:51:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Low List Traffic References: <019101d30bd8$aa673b90$ff35b2b0$@rr.com> very cool. You are providing a great service Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 2:45 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Hello, Healeyphiles - > > > > There seems to have been little to no traffic on the list lately. Thought > I would test the system by announcing that the BJ8 Registry has just added > its 9000th car, which is very close to 51% of total production. The > registry database has been a positive benefit to the Healey community in > general, and to many individual BJ8 owners in particular. All of you BJ8 > owners who have not contributed the details of your car to the registry > (not to healeydata.com, ahexp.com, etc.) should really give me a chance > to explain why you should if you have any doubts or reservations. I may > already have the car entered under one or more previous owners and with > information that you do not know. > > You can find the BJ8 questionnaire at http://www.britishcarforum. > com/bj8form/bj8quest.html > > If prompted for a user name: guest > > If prompted for a password: bighealey2013 > > > > That stuff has become necessary due to too many questionnaires being > filled out by web robots. > > > > Thanks for your attention. I now return you to your regularly scheduled > activities. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rustyle at comcast.net Wed Aug 2 19:05:10 2017 From: rustyle at comcast.net (Rusty Lesher) Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 21:05:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rough running 100M References: <003301d30be8$16715280$4353f780$@ca> Hi Larry and others, You may want to check the life expectancy of your valve springs. This is the only thing I could think it could be with everything else checked. Good Luck, Rusty Lesher 1959 100-6 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Paterson Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2017 7:36 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Rough running 100M Hi folks - here's one for you to ponder. For the past many years I've raced my 100M without a problem. Lately however at around 4500 RPM under load it balks and stutters running quite rough. I've checked timing, changed the condenser several times checked carbs and all the other usual stuff. When not under load it revs freely. The motor has a billet crank, roller rockers, aluminium head, 100S pistons, lightened flywheel etc and regularly ran up to 6500 - 7000 RPM with no issues. It also has a Mallory distributor and is running 24 degrees of advance. Any advice on where to look next would be much appreciated. Thanks Larry Paterson 100M, BN7, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Aug 2 19:29:51 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2017 09:29:51 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Rough running 100M References: <003301d30be8$16715280$4353f780$@ca> Larry - Sounds to me that your fuel pump capacity is degrading or there's some sort of clogging going on somehwere along the fuel line into the float bowls. Next time you get the sputtering immediately turn off the motor and coast to a stop on the side of the road. Pop off the float chamber lids and if you see little or no fuel in one or both bowls, then you know you have a fuel delivery degradation problem. Best, Alan On Thu, Aug 3, 2017 at 7:35 AM, Larry Paterson wrote: > Hi folks ? here?s one for you to ponder. For the past many years I?ve > raced my 100M without a problem. Lately however at around 4500 RPM under > load it balks and stutters running quite rough. I?ve checked timing, > changed the condenser several times checked carbs and all the other usual > stuff. When not under load it revs freely. The motor has a billet > crank, roller rockers, aluminium head, 100S pistons, lightened flywheel etc > and regularly ran up to 6500 ? 7000 <6500%207000> RPM with no issues. It > also has a Mallory distributor and is running 24 degrees of advance. Any > advice on where to look next would be much appreciated. > > > > Thanks > > Larry Paterson > > 100M, BN7, > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Wed Aug 2 19:36:55 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2017 18:36:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rough running 100M Try a new rotor.? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Larry Paterson Date: 8/2/17 4:35 PM (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Rough running 100M Hi folks ? here?s one for you to ponder.? For the past many years I?ve raced my 100M without a problem.? Lately however at around 4500 RPM under load it balks and stutters running quite rough.? I?ve checked timing, changed the condenser several times checked carbs and all the other usual stuff.?? When not under load it revs freely.?? The motor has a billet crank, roller rockers, aluminium head, 100S pistons, lightened flywheel etc and regularly ran up to 6500 ? 7000 RPM with no issues. It also has a Mallory distributor and is running 24 degrees of advance. Any advice on where to look next would be much appreciated.?ThanksLarry Paterson100M, BN7, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Aug 2 19:27:48 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2017 09:27:48 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Low List Traffic References: <019101d30bd8$aa673b90$ff35b2b0$@rr.com> Wow, great news steve. Note that maybe your email service is putting some healey emails in spam? Is there a way for you to check that? On Thu, Aug 3, 2017 at 5:45 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Hello, Healeyphiles - > > > > There seems to have been little to no traffic on the list lately. Thought > I would test the system by announcing that the BJ8 Registry has just added > its 9000th car, which is very close to 51% of total production. The > registry database has been a positive benefit to the Healey community in > general, and to many individual BJ8 owners in particular. All of you BJ8 > owners who have not contributed the details of your car to the registry > (not to healeydata.com, ahexp.com, etc.) should really give me a chance > to explain why you should if you have any doubts or reservations. I may > already have the car entered under one or more previous owners and with > information that you do not know. > > You can find the BJ8 questionnaire at http://www.britishcarforum. > com/bj8form/bj8quest.html > > If prompted for a user name: guest > > If prompted for a password: bighealey2013 > > > > That stuff has become necessary due to too many questionnaires being > filled out by web robots. > > > > Thanks for your attention. I now return you to your regularly scheduled > activities. > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 2 20:23:38 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 19:23:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rough running 100M References: <003301d30be8$16715280$4353f780$@ca> Run it in a dark garage (with plenty of ventilation) and look for spark leakage (dist. cap + wires). On 8/2/2017 5:50 PM, i erbs wrote: > did you change the rotor? simple test. I have seen this happen with a > bad rotor or even the carbon piece/and spring that connects the cap to > the rotor. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 4:35 PM, Larry Paterson > > Hi folks ? here?s one for you to ponder. For the past many years > I?ve raced my 100M without a problem. Lately however at around > 4500 RPM under load it balks and stutters running quite rough. > I?ve checked timing, changed the condenser several times checked > carbs and all the other usual stuff. When not under load it revs > freely. The motor has a billet crank, roller rockers, aluminium > head, 100S pistons, lightened flywheel etc and regularly ran up to > 6500 ? 7000 RPM with no issues. It also has a Mallory distributor > and is running 24 degrees of advance. Any advice on where to look > next would be much appreciated. > > Thanks > > Larry Paterson > > 100M, BN7, > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Aug 2 21:43:03 2017 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2017 3:43:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rough running 100M Did the "usual stuff" including checking the fuel pump/fuel delivery? Greg Lemon ---- Rusty Lesher wrote: > Hi Larry and others, > > You may want to check the life expectancy of your valve springs. > > This is the only thing I could think it could be with everything else > checked. > > Good Luck, > > > > Rusty Lesher > > 1959 100-6 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry > Paterson > Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2017 7:36 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Rough running 100M > > > > Hi folks - here's one for you to ponder. For the past many years I've raced > my 100M without a problem. Lately however at around 4500 RPM under load it > balks and stutters running quite rough. I've checked timing, changed the > condenser several times checked carbs and all the other usual stuff. When > not under load it revs freely. The motor has a billet crank, roller > rockers, aluminium head, 100S pistons, lightened flywheel etc and regularly > ran up to 6500 - 7000 RPM with no issues. It also has a Mallory distributor > and is running 24 degrees of advance. Any advice on where to look next would > be much appreciated. > > > > Thanks > > Larry Paterson > > 100M, BN7, > From mark at bradakis.com Wed Aug 2 22:03:27 2017 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2017 22:03:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net Expect some unannounced, random outages of Team Net services over the next few days as I work on upgrading the operating system and various things. Like trying to get the archives automatically updating on a regular basis again. I apologize for any inconvenience. mjb. From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Aug 3 08:15:17 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2017 10:15:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Low List Traffic References: <019101d30bd8$aa673b90$ff35b2b0$@rr.com> Nothing going into spam or junk folders. Comment has been made on the British Car Forum that the traffic on the autox.team.net list has seemingly been decreasing recently. Until I posted my message yesterday, I had not seen anything on the list in a while -- maybe one or two now and then. Now, I have several responses so the system is working; just not being used like it used to. When this list started (I joined in 1996), there weren't so many other forums. More forums tend to dilute the overall effort, I think, just like having several different places where people can post the details of their cars. It would be better to have only one, IMHO. But some people like this format, and some people like another. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2017 9:28 PM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Low List Traffic Wow, great news steve. Note that maybe your email service is putting some healey emails in spam? Is there a way for you to check that? On Thu, Aug 3, 2017 at 5:45 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: Hello, Healeyphiles - There seems to have been little to no traffic on the list lately. Thought I would test the system by announcing that the BJ8 Registry has just added its 9000th car, which is very close to 51% of total production. The registry database has been a positive benefit to the Healey community in general, and to many individual BJ8 owners in particular. All of you BJ8 owners who have not contributed the details of your car to the registry (not to healeydata.com, ahexp.com, etc.) should really give me a chance to explain why you should if you have any doubts or reservations. I may already have the car entered under one or more previous owners and with information that you do not know. You can find the BJ8 questionnaire at http://www.britishcarforum.com/bj8form/bj8quest.html If prompted for a user name: guest If prompted for a password: bighealey2013 That stuff has become necessary due to too many questionnaires being filled out by web robots. Thanks for your attention. I now return you to your regularly scheduled activities. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Aug 3 08:57:03 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2017 07:57:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?overdrive?= bj8 has recently started to kick out of overdrive when i accelerate. does not do it all the time, but anytime i am climbing a hill and push on throttle it kicks out until no longer accelerating. it will do it even when going down a hill. i am assuming a worn accumulater, but any ideas of what else it might be before i start tearing into it. From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Aug 3 09:12:58 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2017 09:12:58 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive References: <20170803145703.18090.qmail@server278.com> ..if it comes out going down hill with no accelerator input it is likely degraded O-rings on the accumulator. Other wise it may be the throttle switch adjustment. The O-rings can be done in-situ. Fiddly, but doable. On 8/3/2017 8:57 AM, healeymanjim wrote: > bj8 has recently started to kick out of overdrive when i accelerate. does not do it all the time, but anytime i am climbing a > hill and push on throttle it kicks out until no longer accelerating. it will do it even when going down a hill. i am assuming a > worn accumulater, but any ideas of what else it might be before i start tearing into it. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From 050.rpl at gmail.com Thu Aug 3 10:07:27 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2017 12:07:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive References: <20170803145703.18090.qmail@server278.com> Check that the ground is firmly attached. Price Lindsay 239-596-8518 (Home) 630-841-6300 (Cell) 050.rpl at gmail.com > On Aug 3, 2017, at 10:57 AM, healeymanjim wrote: > > bj8 has recently started to kick out of overdrive when i accelerate. does not do it all the time, but anytime i am climbing a > hill and push on throttle it kicks out until no longer accelerating. it will do it even when going down a hill. i am assuming a > worn accumulater, but any ideas of what else it might be before i start tearing into it. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 3 11:13:11 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2017 10:13:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Intake Gaskets Folks, My 100M has, I believe, H6 (1.75" throat) carbs. I need to get some carb-manifold gaskets, but the Moss catalog doesn't show them for 100Ms. Anybody know if later gaskets--e.g. for late BN4 to BJ7 which, I think, have 1.75" carbs--will fit? TIA, Bob From reinhart.rosner at aon.at Thu Aug 3 12:12:49 2017 From: reinhart.rosner at aon.at (Reinhart Rosner) Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2017 20:12:49 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Intake Gaskets References: Hi Bob, a good source for information and parts is: https://burlen.co.uk/ Reinhart Reinhart Rosner 55 AH 100 BN 1 Vienna ? Austria -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Bob Spidell Gesendet: Donnerstag, 03. August 2017 19:13 An: Healeys Betreff: [Healeys] 100M Intake Gaskets Folks, My 100M has, I believe, H6 (1.75" throat) carbs. I need to get some carb-manifold gaskets, but the Moss catalog doesn't show them for 100Ms. Anybody know if later gaskets--e.g. for late BN4 to BJ7 which, I think, have 1.75" carbs--will fit? TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/reinhart.rosner at aon.at From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Aug 4 07:09:26 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2017 09:09:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Low List Traffic References: <019101d30bd8$aa673b90$ff35b2b0$@rr.com> Cars that no longer exist (perhaps went to Healey Heaven in the 1970s with no record being kept) are more difficult to identify now than the ones that do exist. Of the 9,040 currently accounted for, only 79 BJ8s have been confirmed to have been destroyed, parted out, rusted away or otherwise no longer exist. Others may not exist now, but did when the registry record was entered (some from historical sources). The registry does attempt to document the existence and preserve the ownership history of each car, for the benefit of current and future owners who will want to know who owned their car before them. There isn't any other place where that information can be documented and preserved except the registry. And how many owners would object to being contacted by the owner 5 or 10 years from now for more information about their time with the car? How will they know you existed and how to get in touch with you if there is no record? As an example of this, I was contacted last week by the original owner of a car that he sold in 1980. He was very interested in locating it now to buy it back, but he had no VIN and the registry had no record of either him or the buyer. There is a surprising percentage of the 17,712 cars built that apparently still survive in one condition or another. Exactly how many is impossible to say with any accuracy unless all of them could be located at the same point in current time. We do the best we can with that, but it does require the cooperation and participation of as many owners as possible. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC On 8/2/2017 3:31 PM, Simon Griffin wrote: That is impressive! This does not mean that 9000 survive I suppose? Simon 100 owner -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Fri Aug 4 07:53:43 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2017 15:53:43 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive References: <20170803145703.18090.qmail@server278.com> Hi If you investigate the overdrive relay, I think you will find that it doesn't work. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 3 aug. 2017 kl. 16:57 skrev healeymanjim : > > bj8 has recently started to kick out of overdrive when i accelerate. does not do it all the time, but anytime i am climbing a > hill and push on throttle it kicks out until no longer accelerating. it will do it even when going down a hill. i am assuming a > worn accumulater, but any ideas of what else it might be before i start tearing into it. > _______________________________________________ > From per at schoerner.se Fri Aug 4 14:00:55 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2017 22:00:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] overdrive References: <20170803145703.18090.qmail@server278.com> <1E3ACF12-1BAF-4D50-B4ED-F3F7B47C6A5E@schoerner.se> <20170804194021.22739.qmail@server278.com> Hi That is correct. However, when the accelerator is not depressed the overdrive will be kept engaged by the overdrive switch in combination with the cutout switch. Depending on how well, or not well, the cutout switch is adjusted the cutout can happen with very little or very much depression of the accelerator. So if the overdrive disengages on acceleration and engages again when the accelerator is not depressed this is what happens. Disconnect the cables from the relay and test it with an ohm meter and you will see what I mean. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 4 aug. 2017 kl. 21:40 skrev healeymanjim : > > i thought the relay was used to engage it. no problem engaging the o/d, just keeping it engaged. > >> -------Original Message------- >> From: Per Schoerner >> To: healeymanjim >> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overdrive >> Sent: Aug 04 '17 06:54 >> >> Hi >> If you investigate the overdrive relay, I think you will find that it doesn't work. >> >> Per >> >> Skickat fr?n min iPhone >> >>> 3 aug. 2017 kl. 16:57 skrev healeymanjim : >>> >>> bj8 has recently started to kick out of overdrive when i accelerate. does not do it all the time, but anytime i am > climbing a >>> hill and push on throttle it kicks out until no longer accelerating. it will do it even when going down a hill. i am > assuming a >>> worn accumulater, but any ideas of what else it might be before i start tearing into it. >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >> >> From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Aug 5 12:34:02 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2017 14:34:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] UK BN4 746YUF References: <20170715130834.47C7B2588C91@autox.team.net> <4bb641ab-7cd9-8afa-5f47-63082d516e0b@summaventures.com> I sent this message out about a month ago and Peter asked where the pub was. My niece just sent an update on this crucial investigation. ? ?It was "the Cricketer" pub in Iwerne Courtney if you want to narrow the search.? Peter asked: Where was she? On 15/07/2017 14:04, healeyguy at aol.com wrote: > Listers > > My niece just returned from a UK trip and happened upon a very nice dark blue > BN4, registered as 746YUF in a small town in southern England. Says she was > visiting a pub and there it was in all its splendor. Anyone on the list? > > Aloha > > Perry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Aug 5 14:06:18 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2017 13:06:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Intake Gaskets References: dK6bdA1T2BxRWdK6cdGVXl Bob, You should find all of the parts needed for a 100M with H6 carbs by following this link: http://sucarb.co.uk/carbspec/carburettor/essentials/id/370/ Regards, Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2017 10:13 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 100M Intake Gaskets Folks, My 100M has, I believe, H6 (1.75" throat) carbs. I need to get some carb-manifold gaskets, but the Moss catalog doesn't show them for 100Ms. Anybody know if later gaskets--e.g. for late BN4 to BJ7 which, I think, have 1.75" carbs--will fit? TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net From timwarduk at aol.com Sun Aug 6 04:11:45 2017 From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward) Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2017 11:11:45 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sun Aug 6 05:44:13 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2017 13:44:13 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 Von: "Tim Ward" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Aug 6 06:08:30 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2017 12:08:30 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Michael Salter Michael, Please contact me off the list. I am using another computer and don't have access to your address. Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ Police Urge Americans to Carry This With Them at All Times The Observer http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/598706e8751ab6e81a80st04duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Aug 6 08:28:50 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2017 16:28:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: > > Hi > > Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the > Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on > Motorways. > > So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. > > Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the > different roads. > > I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres > 185/70, HR15, 89H > > As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom > > Many thanks > > Tim > > BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige > > Tim Ward > > Warwick House > > 12 Mill Road > > Kislingbury > > NN7 4BB > > Tel: 07855 388 751 > > http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ > > http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Sun Aug 6 14:11:21 2017 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2017 20:11:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Re - Tyre Pressures References: <1547445270.1036831.1502050281315.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Tim, I echo Kees in suggesting you keep clear of the motorways. My wife and I drove the BN2 from Scotland to Val d'Aosta in 2014 and entirely avoided all motorways and tunnels. The Grand and Petit St. Bernard passes were spectacular. The N and D roads in France, as well as providing wonderful scenery and great eating places were often fantastic driving roads, almost traffic free. It was a wonderful trip. My tyre pressures probably won't help you as I'm on 60 spoke wheels with 165 x 15 Vredsteins at 28 psi. The only issue we had in our 1600 mile trip was some slightly rough running in Italy. At first I wondered about the high altitude in the Val d'Aosta affecting the carburation, but we had come over the Grand St Bernard Pass without missing a beat. The problem cleared up as we drove back through France so, in retrospect, I blame a bad batch of fuel in Italy. Mike Brooks'56 BN2AberdeenshireScotland?Message: 3 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2017 11:11:45 +0100 From: "Tim Ward" To: Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 6 16:56:22 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2017 15:56:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before you have to check your tyre pressure? Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) Bob On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, > even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the > climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I > strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be > very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the > services and meals are lousy. > Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) > GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and > smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with > nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the > way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just > be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger > towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated > beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan > with petrol, just in case. > Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac > melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: >> >> Hi >> >> Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in >> the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly >> on Motorways. >> >> So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. >> >> Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the >> different roads. >> >> I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein >> Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H >> >> As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom >> >> Many thanks >> >> Tim >> >> BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige >> >> Tim Ward >> >> Warwick House >> >> 12 Mill Road >> >> Kislingbury >> >> NN7 4BB >> >> Tel: 07855 388 751 >> >> http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sun Aug 6 18:07:29 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 10:07:29 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> <1cc3c103-c7ee-befb-9b8a-b866d774e597@comcast.net> Kilopascals? In Oz we want PSI! From: Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 8:56 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before you have to check your tyre pressure? Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) Bob On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Aug 6 18:24:43 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2017 17:24:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> eVWHdYOycBxRWeVWIdXw89 1 Bar = 100 kPa = 14.5 psi Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2017 3:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before you have to check your tyre pressure? Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) Bob On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Sun Aug 6 20:08:48 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 12:08:48 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> <1cc3c103-c7ee-befb-9b8a-b866d774e597@comcast.net> What happened to the proper stuff?psi? John Rowe Qld Aust From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, 7 August 2017 8:56 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before you have to check your tyre pressure? Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) Bob On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sun Aug 6 19:33:18 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2017 18:33:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> <1cc3c103-c7ee-befb-9b8a-b866d774e597@comcast.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 6 22:44:40 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2017 21:44:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Fuel Pump Trivia Listers, Just when I thought I had the Moss catalog committed to memory, I found something I hadn't noticed before. The page for 'Fuel Pump late BJ8,' shows a 'union, inlet and outlet' that bolts into the the pump body (page# 35 in my catalog). This appears to be the same as the fitting on our BN2's pump. However, my BJ8's pump, and its original piping (AFAIK), has the earlier, banjo-style fitting (a big, hollow bolt similar to those on the carbs; Moss# 370-350). Anyway, Moss shows the 'BN2' style fitting for cars after 28225; my car is body number 38652 and, as I mentioned, it definitely has the 'earlier' style banjo and bolt. I know there was often some carryover of leftover earlier car parts, but my body number is significantly later (built in November 1966). So, my question is, does anybody with a BJ8 have the 'union' style fitting, instead of the banjo and bolt? Or, is this a goof by Moss? FWIW, my BMC parts book doesn't show either type for BJ8 pumps. Bob From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 6 23:16:51 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2017 22:16:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> <1cc3c103-c7ee-befb-9b8a-b866d774e597@comcast.net> <001801d30f22$1be53ff0$53afbfd0$@com.au> It all depends on the system of measurements one uses. With the exception of Bob Spidell, most of us in the USA, and down under want to know PSI. That said, knowing the math behind it helps. Thank you Harold! BTW, I do not set the front and rear pressures at two bar (29 psi for those who might have missed that suggestion). I use 222.22 kPa (32 PSI) front and 201.39 kPa (29 PSI) rear. To ensure accuracy, I use a ?Fluke? measurement tool which can be found at this URL: http://www.transcat.com/fluke-pressurements-p3023-kpa-p-p3023-kpa-p-244351?s t-t=adword_google_* &gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo7i9la7E1QIVgYBpCh127Q20EAQYASABEgKm0_D_BwE John Spaur Posted this just because I wanted to be ?snarky? tonight. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Rowe Sent: Sunday, August 6, 2017 7:09 PM To: 'Bob Spidell' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures What happened to the proper stuff?psi? John Rowe Qld Aust From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, 7 August 2017 8:56 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before you have to check your tyre pressure? Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) Bob On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From timwarduk at aol.com Mon Aug 7 02:05:11 2017 From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 09:05:11 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <1502019853119.7363850.837482da394ca1dc8be203d8b109db4cf9bb4076@spica.telekom.de> Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your confirmation Tim From: josef-eckert at t-online.de [mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de] Sent: 06 August 2017 12:44 To: Tim Ward ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Tyre Pressures Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Aug 7 02:15:56 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 18:15:56 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> <1cc3c103-c7ee-befb-9b8a-b866d774e597@comcast.net> I think the bigger question is which dealership you get the air from. >From Facebook today.... Sent from my iPhone > On 7 Aug 2017, at 8:56 am, Bob Spidell wrote: > > What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before you have to check your tyre pressure? > > Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) > > Bob > >> On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: >> Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. >> Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. >> Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> >> Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: >>> >>> Hi >>> >>> Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. >>> >>> >>> >>> So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. >>> >>> >>> >>> Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. >>> >>> >>> >>> I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H >>> >>> >>> >>> As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom >>> >>> >>> >>> Many thanks >>> >>> >>> >>> Tim >>> >>> BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige >>> >>> >>> >>> Tim Ward >>> >>> Warwick House >>> >>> 12 Mill Road >>> >>> Kislingbury >>> >>> NN7 4BB >>> >>> Tel: 07855 388 751 >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ >>> >>> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 88263 bytes Desc: not available URL: From timwarduk at aol.com Mon Aug 7 02:24:17 2017 From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 09:24:17 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> Hi Kees Thanks for the response and advice! We shall be using the country roads as much as we can, but unfortunately some Autoroutes will be unavoidable. Im hoping that the heatwave will have calmed down by early September as driving with no cover in 40c would not be comfortable! Thanks for your advice on pressures All the best Tim From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: 06 August 2017 15:29 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From timwarduk at aol.com Mon Aug 7 02:34:13 2017 From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 09:34:13 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Re - Tyre Pressures References: <1547445270.1036831.1502050281315.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1547445270.1036831.1502050281315@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mike Sounds like a great trip you had back in 2014. A few years back we did a trip in Switzerland to take in as many passes as we could based first in Brienz and then in St Moritz. The toe in settings back then were wrong and after the Stelvio pass I noticed that the outside of one of the tyres was very scrubbed. Quite scary! They are now set correctly! Hopefully the heatwave will have calmed down by early September Thanks for your response All the best Tim From: mike brooks [mailto:hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk] Sent: 06 August 2017 21:11 To: Healeys Cc: timwarduk at aol.com Subject: Re - [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Tim, I echo Kees in suggesting you keep clear of the motorways. My wife and I drove the BN2 from Scotland to Val d'Aosta in 2014 and entirely avoided all motorways and tunnels. The Grand and Petit St. Bernard passes were spectacular. The N and D roads in France, as well as providing wonderful scenery and great eating places were often fantastic driving roads, almost traffic free. It was a wonderful trip. My tyre pressures probably won't help you as I'm on 60 spoke wheels with 165 x 15 Vredsteins at 28 psi. The only issue we had in our 1600 mile trip was some slightly rough running in Italy. At first I wondered about the high altitude in the Val d'Aosta affecting the carburation, but we had come over the Grand St Bernard Pass without missing a beat. The problem cleared up as we drove back through France so, in retrospect, I blame a bad batch of fuel in Italy. Mike Brooks '56 BN2 Aberdeenshire Scotland Message: 3 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2017 11:11:45 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From timwarduk at aol.com Mon Aug 7 02:39:59 2017 From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 09:39:59 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> <1cc3c103-c7ee-befb-9b8a-b866d774e597@comcast.net> After two Bars who gives a PSI? Thanks to everyone who responded Tim From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 06 August 2017 23:56 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before you have to check your tyre pressure? Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) Bob On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Mon Aug 7 03:10:08 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 11:10:08 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> <1cc3c103-c7ee-befb-9b8a-b866d774e597@comcast.net> <001801d30f22$1be53ff0$53afbfd0$@com.au> <000001d30f3c$617c0b10$24742130$@sbcglobal.net> On European mainland at petrol stations when you want to check your tyre pressure you only find filling terminals showing in bars pressure. So you are helpless if you don?t know the correct tyre pressure in bar. I personally do not know the tyre pressure for my cars in PSI. I need to take a calculator as on this side of the pond we think different. Be aware we arre living here in a different world compared to the USA in many kind of things. Also driving here is very different to the conditions you have in the USA. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Datum: 2017-08-07T09:18:31+0200 Von: "John Spaur" An: "'John Rowe'" , "'Bob Spidell'" , "healeys at autox.team.net" It all depends on the system of measurements one uses. With the exception of Bob Spidell, most of us in the USA, and down under want to know PSI. That said, knowing the math behind it helps. Thank you Harold! BTW, I do not set the front and rear pressures at two bar (29 psi for those who might have missed that suggestion). I use 222.22 kPa (32 PSI) front and 201.39 kPa (29 PSI) rear. To ensure accuracy, I use a ?Fluke? measurement tool which can be found at this URL: http://www.transcat.com/fluke-pressurements-p3023-kpa-p-p3023-kpa-p-244351?st-t=adword_google_*&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo7i9la7E1QIVgYBpCh127Q20EAQYASABEgKm0_D_BwE John Spaur Posted this just because I wanted to be ?snarky? tonight. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Rowe Sent: Sunday, August 6, 2017 7:09 PM To: 'Bob Spidell' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures What happened to the proper stuff?psi? John Rowe Qld Aust From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, 7 August 2017 8:56 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before you have to check your tyre pressure? Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) Bob On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Mon Aug 7 03:39:11 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 19:39:11 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> <1cc3c103-c7ee-befb-9b8a-b866d774e597@comcast.net> <8254B196-BB36-47CD-810A-CFE7AA9001D8@gmail.com> ...is he serious?? From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 6:15 PM To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures I think the bigger question is which dealership you get the air from. >From Facebook today.... Sent from my iPhone On 7 Aug 2017, at 8:56 am, Bob Spidell wrote: What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before you have to check your tyre pressure? Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) Bob On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 88263 bytes Desc: not available URL: From llennep at verizon.net Mon Aug 7 07:56:51 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 09:56:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: eVWHdYOycBxRWeVWIdXw89 <055BEEC2EE2342F18BB5B9DDB479B74E@AllInOne> Uh 101 kPa and 14.7 psi -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold To: 'Bob Spidell' ; healeys Sent: Sun, Aug 6, 2017 9:56 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures 1 Bar = 100 kPa = 14.5 psi Harold From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2017 3:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before you have to check your tyre pressure? Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) Bob On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre in general. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1117 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 7 09:55:46 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 17:55:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <055BEEC2EE2342F18BB5B9DDB479B74E@AllInOne> <15dbcfbe784-2442-355e@webprd-a99.mail.aol.com> Your gauge is not even that accurate!!! Kees Oudesluijs Op 7-8-2017 om 15:56 schreef Keith Pennell: > Uh 101 kPa and 14.7 psi > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold > To: 'Bob Spidell' ; healeys > Sent: Sun, Aug 6, 2017 9:56 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > > 1 Bar = 100 kPa = 14.5 psi > Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Sunday, August 06, 2017 3:56 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > > What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before > you have to check your tyre pressure? > Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) > Bob > > On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of > fun, even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also > thanks to the climate control on board. If you are returning > during the weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads > and Motorways, they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, > very, very boring and the services and meals are lousy. > Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to > date!!!!) GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent > secondary and smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so > more pleasant with nice places to see, many excellent small > restaurants, hotels on the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and > the petrol is way cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly > sold along the road near the larger towns and at the hyper markets > e.g. Intermarch?, very well indicated beforehand often near > industrial estates. Do carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just > in case. > Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with > tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of > tyre in general. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: > > Hi > Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France > taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. > Then back mostly on Motorways. > So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass > Roads. > Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for > the different roads. > I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new > Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H > As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom > Many thanks > Tim > BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige > Tim Ward > Warwick House > 12 Mill Road > Kislingbury > NN7 4BB > Tel: 07855 388 751 > http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlarson at att.net Mon Aug 7 11:58:41 2017 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 13:58:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <759c2a5d-a1c8-082a-724f-94f5573a3d8b@chello.nl> <1cc3c103-c7ee-befb-9b8a-b866d774e597@comcast.net> <8254B196-BB36-47CD-810A-CFE7AA9001D8@gmail.com> I don't get it from my Austin Healey dealer. One never knows how long it has been sitting around. I go right to the tire manufacturer as it knows what gas mixture is best for its tires. Custom blended for the tire model and driving style. Also then it is the freshest air available. Ordered in PSI as per the service manual. Bob 55BN1 On 8/7/2017 4:15 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > I think the bigger question is which dealership you get the air from. > From Facebook today.... > > image1.JPG > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 7 Aug 2017, at 8:56 am, Bob Spidell From warthodson at aol.com Mon Aug 7 12:30:37 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 14:30:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] random thoughts Another big difference is that you people drive around on tyres while we cannot find them over here. We only have tires. I think our air might be different, too. Finally, I stopped at a gas station (as apposed to a petrol station) recently that offered 87, 88, 89, 90, & 91 octane. I do not know why. FYI, our gas is actually a liquid. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: josef-eckert To: Healeys, Forum Sent: Mon, Aug 7, 2017 10:28 am Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures On European mainland at petrol stations when you want to check your tyre pressure you only find filling terminals showing in bars pressure. So you are helpless if you don?t know the correct tyre pressure in bar. I personally do not know the tyre pressure for my cars in PSI. I need to take a calculator as on this side of the pond we think different. Be aware we arre living here in a different world compared to the USA in many kind of things. Also driving here is very different to the conditions you have in the USA. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 7 15:47:22 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 14:47:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Head Re-torque Listers, Got a little over 5K miles--you'll have to do your own conversion to furlongs--on my 'new' BJ8 engine. Got a couple ??? for the B&B: 1) is head re-torquing still considered necessary? 2) if yes to #1, does anybody have a source for the "crow's foot" wrench extension that can loosen/tighten the head nuts w/o removing the rocker shaft (which is a bit of a PITA)? TIA, Bob From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Aug 7 17:09:45 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 19:09:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Fuel Pump Trivia References: Bob, I think that it's a goof on Moss's part. The unions are used with elbows (377-042). Their web site shows the elbow assembly used at the same time as the banjo union and bolt, which is another mistake. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/07/2017 12:44 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Listers, > > Just when I thought I had the Moss catalog committed to memory, I found > something I hadn't noticed before. The page for 'Fuel Pump late BJ8,' > shows a 'union, inlet and outlet' that bolts into the the pump body > (page# 35 in my catalog). This appears to be the same as the fitting on > our BN2's pump. However, my BJ8's pump, and its original piping > (AFAIK), has the earlier, banjo-style fitting (a big, hollow bolt > similar to those on the carbs; Moss# 370-350). Anyway, Moss shows the > 'BN2' style fitting for cars after 28225; my car is body number 38652 > and, as I mentioned, it definitely has the 'earlier' style banjo and > bolt. I know there was often some carryover of leftover earlier car > parts, but my body number is significantly later (built in November > 1966). So, my question is, does anybody with a BJ8 have the 'union' > style fitting, instead of the banjo and bolt? Or, is this a goof by > Moss? FWIW, my BMC parts book doesn't show either type for BJ8 pumps. > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Aug 7 17:18:45 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 19:18:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <055BEEC2EE2342F18BB5B9DDB479B74E@AllInOne> <15dbcfbe784-2442-355e@webprd-a99.mail.aol.com> 1 atmosphere = 14.7 psi or 101 KPa or 1.01 Bar. 1 bar = 100 KPa or 14.5 psi Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/07/2017 09:56 AM, Keith Pennell wrote: > Uh 101 kPa and 14.7 psi > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Harold Manifold > To: 'Bob Spidell' ; healeys > Sent: Sun, Aug 6, 2017 9:56 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > > 1 Bar = 100 kPa = 14.5 psi > Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Sunday, August 06, 2017 3:56 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > > What's all this 'bar' stuff? That how many bars you can hit before you > have to check your tyre pressure? > Us Yankees want to know kilopascals ;) > Bob > > On 8/6/2017 7:28 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > Just returned from the Italian/French mountain passes. Loads of fun, > even with a fully laden Kia Rio I was repatriating, also thanks to > the climate control on board. If you are returning during the > weekend I strongly advise you to avoid the Toll roads and Motorways, > they may be very crowded and slow, are expensive, very, very boring > and the services and meals are lousy. > Tap in "avoid motor ways and/or toll roads" on your (up to date!!!!) > GPS or smart phone and enjoy the really excellent secondary and > smaller roads. It will take a bit longer but is so more pleasant > with nice places to see, many excellent small restaurants, hotels on > the way, plenty of arm muscle exercise and the petrol is way > cheaper. Just be aware that petrol is mainly sold along the road > near the larger towns and at the hyper markets e.g. Intermarch?, > very well indicated beforehand often near industrial estates. Do > carry a 10 litre jerrycan with petrol, just in case. > Tyre pressure also depends on temperature, I had over 40?C with > tarmac melting. I would settle for around 2bar for this size of tyre > in general. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 6-8-2017 om 12:11 schreef Tim Ward: > > Hi > Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking > in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back > mostly on Motorways. > So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. > Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the > different roads. > I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein > Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H > As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom > Many thanks > Tim > BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige > Tim Ward > Warwick House > 12 Mill Road > Kislingbury > NN7 4BB > Tel: 07855 388 751 > http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Aug 7 18:04:49 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2017 18:04:49 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. Despite the excellent Moment/Anderson restoration guide there are no usable pictures of how the 100 convertible top is attached with the secondary flap at the header. Can someone send me a few close ups of the way it should be. Thanks! Dave From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Aug 7 19:06:43 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 21:06:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Head Re-torque References: <3c81b953-5a5e-cc55-08a8-6e5550984043@comcast.net> Sorry, but you can't torque with a crow's-foot extension, as it acts a lever and will convey a different torque to that shown on your wrench. Theoretically, you could do the math and figure out the effect of the lever, but it would never be as accurate. I prefer, wherever possible, to have the socket right on the torque wrench to minimize any effect of extensions, etc. That said, I am being overly fussy, as for most applications, being a few lb/ft either way won't matter, getting them even is probably more important. Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: August-07-17 5:47 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Head Re-torque Listers, Got a little over 5K miles--you'll have to do your own conversion to furlongs--on my 'new' BJ8 engine. Got a couple ??? for the B&B: 1) is head re-torquing still considered necessary? 2) if yes to #1, does anybody have a source for the "crow's foot" wrench extension that can loosen/tighten the head nuts w/o removing the rocker shaft (which is a bit of a PITA)? TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Aug 7 19:10:38 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 21:10:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] speedo inner cable length Hi all, I am installing a new speedo cable and I think the inner cable is too long. With the instrument end fully seated and the knurled nut hand-tightened, can anyone tell me how far the inner should protrude at the other end? Thanks, Mirek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 7 19:30:04 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 18:30:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Head Re-torque References: <3c81b953-5a5e-cc55-08a8-6e5550984043@comcast.net> <00b801d30fe2$9b92efc0$d2b8cf40$@sympatico.ca> Yeah, I used the wrong term "crow's foot." I'm thinking something like these I've seen used by aircraft mechanics: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nutwrenchs1.php Since the wrench end and the box end are aligned I think you'd get the correct torque. Anyone know offhand what size Big Healey head nuts are (probably 11/16" or something goofy like that)? On 8/7/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > Sorry, but you can't torque with a crow's-foot extension, as it acts a > lever and will convey a different torque to that shown on your wrench. > Theoretically, you could do the math and figure out the effect of the lever, > but it would never be as accurate. I prefer, wherever possible, to have the > socket right on the torque wrench to minimize any effect of extensions, etc. > That said, I am being overly fussy, as for most applications, being a few > lb/ft either way won't matter, getting them even is probably more important. > > Mirek > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: August-07-17 5:47 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Head Re-torque > > Listers, > > Got a little over 5K miles--you'll have to do your own conversion to > furlongs--on my 'new' BJ8 engine. Got a couple ??? for the B&B: > > 1) is head re-torquing still considered necessary? > > 2) if yes to #1, does anybody have a source for the "crow's foot" wrench > extension that can loosen/tighten the head nuts w/o removing the rocker > shaft (which is a bit of a PITA)? > > TIA, > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > > > From kags at shaw.ca Mon Aug 7 21:09:42 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2017 20:09:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Head Re-torque References: <3c81b953-5a5e-cc55-08a8-6e5550984043@comcast.net> Hi Bob: I re-torqued my BJ8 engine approx. 1000 miles after the rebuild. All of the British car gurus - especially the Healey ones - who know about such things suggested that it was a good idea. At the time (about 4 months ago) I tried to find the special factory tool - 18G545 - thinking it would be neat to actually use one. Found a few, but they were all in the hands of tool collectors and were being traded on that basis - real expensive! We wound up taking the rocker shaft off like always. I recommend that you re-torque. Let me know if you go ahead - that way I'll feel better! Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, August 07, 2017 2:47 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Head Re-torque Listers, Got a little over 5K miles--you'll have to do your own conversion to furlongs--on my 'new' BJ8 engine. Got a couple ??? for the B&B: 1) is head re-torquing still considered necessary? 2) if yes to #1, does anybody have a source for the "crow's foot" wrench extension that can loosen/tighten the head nuts w/o removing the rocker shaft (which is a bit of a PITA)? TIA, Bob From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Aug 8 03:58:10 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 05:58:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Head Re-torque References: <3c81b953-5a5e-cc55-08a8-6e5550984043@comcast.net> <00b801d30fe2$9b92efc0$d2b8cf40$@sympatico.ca> <8d96ecb9-7172-8809-bedb-4d534e4563bf@comcast.net> Bob, 11/16" it is. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/07/2017 09:30 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Yeah, I used the wrong term "crow's foot." I'm thinking something like > these I've seen used by aircraft mechanics: > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nutwrenchs1.php > > Since the wrench end and the box end are aligned I think you'd get the > correct torque. > > Anyone know offhand what size Big Healey head nuts are (probably 11/16" > or something goofy like that)? > > > On 8/7/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >> Sorry, but you can't torque with a crow's-foot extension, as it acts a >> lever and will convey a different torque to that shown on your wrench. >> Theoretically, you could do the math and figure out the effect of the >> lever, >> but it would never be as accurate. I prefer, wherever possible, to >> have the >> socket right on the torque wrench to minimize any effect of >> extensions, etc. >> That said, I am being overly fussy, as for most applications, being a few >> lb/ft either way won't matter, getting them even is probably more >> important. >> >> Mirek >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >> Spidell >> Sent: August-07-17 5:47 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] Head Re-torque >> >> Listers, >> >> Got a little over 5K miles--you'll have to do your own conversion to >> furlongs--on my 'new' BJ8 engine. Got a couple ??? for the B&B: >> >> 1) is head re-torquing still considered necessary? >> >> 2) if yes to #1, does anybody have a source for the "crow's foot" wrench >> extension that can loosen/tighten the head nuts w/o removing the rocker >> shaft (which is a bit of a PITA)? >> >> TIA, >> >> Bob >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Aug 8 06:02:44 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2017 06:02:44 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] speedo inner cable length Three eights of an inch insertion at the speedometer head. Any more will damage it according to MoMa. On August 7, 2017, at 7:10 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: Hi all,? I am installing a new speedo cable and I think the inner cable is too long.? With the instrument end fully seated and the knurled nut hand-tightened, can anyone tell me how far the inner should protrude at the other end? ? Thanks,? Mirek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Aug 8 08:34:42 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 08:34:42 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. References: I have what I need.. great pictures on Boras Motor Corp web site.. Dave On 8/7/2017 6:04 PM, David Porter wrote: > Despite the excellent Moment/Anderson restoration guide there are no usable pictures of how the 100 convertible top is attached with the secondary flap at the header. > Can someone send me a few close ups of the way it should be. > Thanks! > Dave > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From britfan1 at epix.net Tue Aug 8 08:50:46 2017 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S. Carr) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 10:50:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. References: I'm sure Dave isn't the only one who'd find those photos useful -- I certainly could use them too! Sarah Carr BN1 (still under restoration) in PA -----Original Message----- From: David Porter Sent: Monday, August 07, 2017 8:04 PM To: healeys at autox team. net Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. Despite the excellent Moment/Anderson restoration guide there are no usable pictures of how the 100 convertible top is attached with the secondary flap at the header. Can someone send me a few close ups of the way it should be. Thanks! Dave From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 8 09:06:14 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 08:06:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Head Re-torque References: <3c81b953-5a5e-cc55-08a8-6e5550984043@comcast.net> <00b801d30fe2$9b92efc0$d2b8cf40$@sympatico.ca> <8d96ecb9-7172-8809-bedb-4d534e4563bf@comcast.net> Thanks, Bob. I posted this question on one of the Forums. A member reported a discussion with Bruce Phillips--of Healey Surgions fame--who said he's tried but never found a way to torque Healey (Austin) heads without removing the rocker shaft, so that's that. Apparently, the nuts next to the oil feed pipe are too close to the pipe to allow use of the 'special' tool. Bob On 8/8/2017 2:58 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Bob, > > 11/16" it is. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 08/07/2017 09:30 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> Yeah, I used the wrong term "crow's foot." I'm thinking something >> like these I've seen used by aircraft mechanics: >> >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nutwrenchs1.php >> >> Since the wrench end and the box end are aligned I think you'd get >> the correct torque. >> >> Anyone know offhand what size Big Healey head nuts are (probably >> 11/16" or something goofy like that)? >> >> >> On 8/7/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >>> Sorry, but you can't torque with a crow's-foot extension, as it acts a >>> lever and will convey a different torque to that shown on your wrench. >>> Theoretically, you could do the math and figure out the effect of >>> the lever, >>> but it would never be as accurate. I prefer, wherever possible, to >>> have the >>> socket right on the torque wrench to minimize any effect of >>> extensions, etc. >>> That said, I am being overly fussy, as for most applications, being >>> a few >>> lb/ft either way won't matter, getting them even is probably more >>> important. >>> >>> Mirek >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob >>> Spidell >>> Sent: August-07-17 5:47 PM >>> To: Healeys >>> Subject: [Healeys] Head Re-torque >>> >>> Listers, >>> >>> Got a little over 5K miles--you'll have to do your own conversion to >>> furlongs--on my 'new' BJ8 engine. Got a couple ??? for the B&B: >>> >>> 1) is head re-torquing still considered necessary? >>> >>> 2) if yes to #1, does anybody have a source for the "crow's foot" >>> wrench >>> extension that can loosen/tighten the head nuts w/o removing the rocker >>> shaft (which is a bit of a PITA)? >>> >>> TIA, >>> >>> Bob >>> >> >> > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Aug 8 10:48:35 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 16:48:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. References: <338044C262C7416AB2D708CB186FA6A5@HomePC> Me three!Mike MacLean On Tuesday, August 8, 2017 9:15 AM, S. Carr wrote: I'm sure Dave isn't the only one who'd find those photos useful -- I certainly could use them too! Sarah Carr BN1 (still under restoration) in PA -----Original Message----- From: David Porter Sent: Monday, August 07, 2017 8:04 PM To: healeys at autox team. net Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. Despite the excellent Moment/Anderson restoration guide there are no usable pictures of how the 100 convertible top is attached with the secondary flap at the header. Can someone send me a few close ups of the way it should be. Thanks! Dave _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 8 11:33:22 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 10:33:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. References: <338044C262C7416AB2D708CB186FA6A5@HomePC> <57760501.1987486.1502210915259@mail.yahoo.com> Well, my BN2/100M is in another town, else I'd be happy to snap a few photos, if only I knew what the hell a 'secondary flap' and 'header' are. bs On 8/8/2017 9:48 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Me three! > Mike MacLean > > > On Tuesday, August 8, 2017 9:15 AM, S. Carr wrote: > > > I'm sure Dave isn't the only one who'd find those photos useful -- I > certainly could use them too! > > Sarah Carr > BN1 (still under restoration) in PA > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Porter > Sent: Monday, August 07, 2017 8:04 PM > Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. > > Despite the excellent Moment/Anderson restoration guide there are no > usable > pictures of how the 100 convertible top is attached with the secondary > flap > at the header. > Can someone send me a few close ups of the way it should be. > Thanks! > Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Aug 8 13:50:57 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 13:50:57 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. References: <1c156bd3-6db2-0ecb-2df0-57491b20c4ae@porterscustom.com> <489A68B8-E7EB-474D-BC6E-DFF0F702B4E9@me.com> http://healeyspecialists.com/making-a-complete-new-interior-for-a-bn1/ On 8/8/2017 12:15 PM, Randall Hicks wrote: > Dave, can you post the photo you got? > > Randy > >> On Aug 8, 2017, at 10:34 AM, David Porter wrote: >> >> the > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Aug 8 18:47:08 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 00:47:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> ???? Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission.? It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again.? Good thing I took this precaution.? Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked.? Today he showed me the accumulator piston.? The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil.? Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive.? There was a huge spring below it.? Anyone heard of this?? He said engagement will be real positive now.? Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced.? The other two were fine and will be re-used.? All the gears showed very little sign of wear.? The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine.? Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.???? I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission.? Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Tue Aug 8 19:05:19 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 18:05:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. What gives ? Anyone else encountered this issue ? rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Tue Aug 8 19:42:58 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 01:42:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <1502019853119.7363850.837482da394ca1dc8be203d8b109db4cf9bb4076@spica.telekom.de>, <01c201d30f53$e94fa710$bbeef530$@aol.com> Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI. Bill Lawrence ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Tim Ward Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM To: josef-eckert at t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your confirmation Tim From: josef-eckert at t-online.de [mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de] Sent: 06 August 2017 12:44 To: Tim Ward ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Tyre Pressures Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 [cid:image001.gif at 01D30EA4.886BFC00] Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Aug 8 20:00:38 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 22:00:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <374061183.59667.1502239628998@mail.yahoo.com> I wouldn't use synthetic in a Healey transmission. I'd go with a 30 wt non-detergent dinosaur oil. Non-detergent so metal particles can fall to the bottom of the tranny. Take a look here: http://www.mgtoronto.com/pdf/Tech/Overdrive_oil.pdf Cheers, Rick Neville On Tue, Aug 8, 2017 at 8:47 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in > Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage > (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and > not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. > Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he > showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored > from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston > from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard > of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low > mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other > two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign > of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can > be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train > is the car. > I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using > 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL > is? > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Tue Aug 8 21:24:01 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 20:24:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> fFridDgRkF9GNfFrjd1KuN Mike, I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive completely rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the recommended oil for the transmission. The original Healey manuals are not consistent either, the shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey service bulletins from the day recommend 30W. Coming up with the right oil is further complicated by the design of a Healey transmission which is two different transmissions with a common oil system. One transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro rings that are not compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants and the other is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement but these are the steps I went through to select the oil I would use: 1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals used in older transmissions. 2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level of EP protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications. 3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50. The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear oil. Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90 GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the Red Line but both should work well. Do not use a GL5 as the additives are not compatible with brass. I looked into why Austin switched their recommended oil from 20W50 to 30W and concluded it was for a lower viscosity at lower temperatures i.e. when the transmission is cold. Viscosity is another important consideration. 70W-90 GL4 has the same viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a better low temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest openings and cracks and the transmission may leak a little more but that is evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have heard Red Line MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil. For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine oils and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared by looking at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve. I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I recommend you reach your own conclusion. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Viscosity Curve.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 118745 bytes Desc: not available URL: From timwarduk at aol.com Wed Aug 9 02:33:06 2017 From: timwarduk at aol.com (Tim Ward) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 09:33:06 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <1502019853119.7363850.837482da394ca1dc8be203d8b109db4cf9bb4076@spica.telekom.de>, <01c201d30f53$e94fa710$bbeef530$@aol.com> Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily accessible All the best Tim From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:YNOTINK at msn.com] Sent: 09 August 2017 02:43 To: Tim Ward ; josef-eckert at t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI. Bill Lawrence _____ Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your confirmation Tim Sent: 06 August 2017 12:44 Subject: Tyre Pressures Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Wed Aug 9 02:38:46 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 10:38:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> Hi Try it with the car raised from ground, much easier that way. Btw. I also only tighten them by hand and one or two blows with a rubber mallet, no point in tightening them any more than that. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 9 aug. 2017 kl. 03:05 skrev Roger Grace : > > On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. > Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. > When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. > After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. > It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. > What gives ? > Anyone else encountered this issue ? > rg > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed Aug 9 04:07:00 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 20:07:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> <67F1802F-611F-466B-AB6A-88F755E5919A@schoerner.se> ...you're probably not tightening them enough in the first place & they're just doing what they're supposed to. I give mine a hell of a lot more than a couple of light taps! Cheers Peter From: Per Schoerner Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 6:38 PM To: Roger Grace Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners Hi Try it with the car raised from ground, much easier that way. Btw. I also only tighten them by hand and one or two blows with a rubber mallet, no point in tightening them any more than that. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone 9 aug. 2017 kl. 03:05 skrev Roger Grace : On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. What gives ? Anyone else encountered this issue ? rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 9 04:29:15 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 12:29:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <1502019853119.7363850.837482da394ca1dc8be203d8b109db4cf9bb4076@spica.telekom.de> <01c201d30f53$e94fa710$bbeef530$@aol.com> <007801d310ea$216a90a0$643fb1e0$@aol.com> Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, but when you need it the battery is usually flat. Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward: > > Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily accessible > > All the best > > Tim > > *From:*WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:YNOTINK at msn.com] > *Sent:* 09 August 2017 02:43 > *To:* Tim Ward ; josef-eckert at t-online.de; > 'Healeys, Forum' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > > Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI. > > Bill Lawrence > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*Healeys *Sent:* Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM > 'Healeys, Forum' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > > Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your > confirmation > > Tim > > [mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de] > *Sent:* 06 August 2017 12:44 > *Subject:* Tyre Pressures > > Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > > Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 > > > > Hi > > Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the > Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on > Motorways. > > So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. > > Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the > different roads. > > I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres > 185/70, HR15, 89H > > As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom > > Many thanks > > Tim > > BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige > > Tim Ward > > Warwick House > > 12 Mill Road > > Kislingbury > > NN7 4BB > > Tel: 07855 388 751 > > http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ > > http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php > > ? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgcharlie at comcast.net Wed Aug 9 05:44:05 2017 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 07:44:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, You have probably stepped in it by getting an oil discussion started again. But to answer your question without adding my opinion to it, I believe that when someone on the list contacted Red Line, they recommended MT-90, which from memory is 40 wt. Check Red Line's website: https://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7 They make a good argument for using a gear rated oil in a transmission as Harold also outlines below. As he mentions and we have discussed previously, it seems that the synthetic transmission oils do leak a bit more. Charlie On 8/8/2017 11:24 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > Mike, > I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive > background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive > completely rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the > recommended oil for the transmission. The original Healey manuals are > not consistent either, the shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey > service bulletins from the day recommend 30W. Coming up with the right > oil is further complicated by the design of a Healey transmission > which is two different transmissions with a common oil system. One > transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro rings that are not > compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants and the other > is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement but > these are the steps I went through to select the oil I would use: > 1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals > used in older transmissions. > 2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level > of EP protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications. > 3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was > recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50. > The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear > oil. Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil > Synthetic 70W-90 GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the > Red Line but both should work well. Do not use a GL5 as the additives > are not compatible with brass. I looked into why Austin switched their > recommended oil from 20W50 to 30W and concluded it was for a lower > viscosity at lower temperatures i.e. when the transmission is cold. > Viscosity is another important consideration. 70W-90 GL4 has the same > viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a better low > temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with Pennzoil > Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest > openings and cracks and the transmission may leak a little more but > that is evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have > heard Red Line MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil. > For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine > oils and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared > by looking at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve. > I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I > recommend you reach your own conclusion. > Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael MacLean > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Russ Thompson > > Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in > Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low > mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to > put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took > this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have > worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller > center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced > it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge > spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be > real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro > was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be > re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse > gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and > it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. > I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using > 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline > MTL is? > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Aug 9 06:51:04 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 12:51:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> If I do use a synthetic oil the leaks may not be a big problem since it has been put back together with all new gaskets. ?I hope.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 5:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Wed Aug 9 06:58:42 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 12:58:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <374061183.59667.1502239628998@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, The original OD design used a 1 ?? accumulator piston with a concentric double spring. This configuration was used in a lot of different vehicles including the Triumphs. Donald Healey didn?t like how the OD engaged harshly when the clutch was not used during the shift. He changed the design to incorporate a sleeve fitted in the 1 ?? bore with a smaller 1 1/8? accumulator piston inside of the sleeve and a single spring. This gave a slower engagement much like a modern automatic transmission. However, as the OD wears the internal leakage increases and the OD will engage very slowly or not at all. Using the larger accumulator is a good idea (in my opinion) and will delay the point when internal leakage causes a problem. Ed Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 8:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Wed Aug 9 07:15:22 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2017 09:15:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I have used Redline MT-90 in both 100M's and BJ8 transmissions for 8 - 10 years now exclusively. 6 trips across the USA and Canada, 80,000+ miles. Another one in September. No issues at all. Nice smooth shifting. MTL is thinner and tends to leak more out of the 100?s tranny. Highly recommend. Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M White/Black '56 100 M Florida Green/OEW '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD '77 450 SL Healey100M at me.com > On Aug 9, 2017, at 7:44 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > > Mike, > > You have probably stepped in it by getting an oil discussion started again. > But to answer your question without adding my opinion to it, I believe that when someone on the list contacted Red Line, they recommended MT-90, which from memory is 40 wt. Check Red Line's website: https://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7 > They make a good argument for using a gear rated oil in a transmission as Harold also outlines below. As he mentions and we have discussed previously, it seems that the synthetic transmission oils do leak a bit more. > > Charlie > > On 8/8/2017 11:24 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: >> Mike, >> >> I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive completely rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the recommended oil for the transmission. The original Healey manuals are not consistent either, the shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey service bulletins from the day recommend 30W. Coming up with the right oil is further complicated by the design of a Healey transmission which is two different transmissions with a common oil system. One transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro rings that are not compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants and the other is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement but these are the steps I went through to select the oil I would use: >> >> 1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals used in older transmissions. >> 2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level of EP protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications. >> 3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50. >> >> The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear oil. Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90 GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the Red Line but both should work well. Do not use a GL5 as the additives are not compatible with brass. I looked into why Austin switched their recommended oil from 20W50 to 30W and concluded it was for a lower viscosity at lower temperatures i.e. when the transmission is cold. Viscosity is another important consideration. 70W-90 GL4 has the same viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a better low temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest openings and cracks and the transmission may leak a little more but that is evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have heard Red Line MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil. >> >> For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine oils and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared by looking at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve. >> >> I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I recommend you reach your own conclusion. >> >> Harold >> >> >> >> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM >> To: Healey List >> Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson >> >> Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. >> I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? >> Mike MacLean >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Wed Aug 9 08:28:50 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 07:28:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <374061183.59667.1502239628998@mail.yahoo.com> I?ve always run 30W non-detergent, but I?m trying the 40W Russ put in. I asked Russ about it, and he said he?s always used 40W. Given temperature is not a factor in So Cal, the thicker oil may perform a bit better in the heat here. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Wed Aug 9 09:03:04 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:03:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <1502019853119.7363850.837482da394ca1dc8be203d8b109db4cf9bb4076@spica.telekom.de> <01c201d30f53$e94fa710$bbeef530$@aol.com> <007801d310ea$216a90a0$643fb1e0$@aol.com> fP3YdEFRqvY8OfP3adXkFW Being an anal pia about measurement errors, I imported a PCL Accura-1 digital gauge; it even comes with a calibration certificate and I am not kidding !! rg https://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/tyre-inflation-equipment/handheld-tyre-inflators/accura-1-tyre-inflators/ From: Oudesluys Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 3:29 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, but when you need it the battery is usually flat. Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward: Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily accessible All the best Tim From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:YNOTINK at msn.com] Sent: 09 August 2017 02:43 To: Tim Ward mailto:timwarduk at aol.com; josef-eckert at t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum' mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI. Bill Lawrence ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Healeys on behalf of Tim Ward Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM To: josef-eckert at t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your confirmation Tim From: josef-eckert at t-online.de [mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de] Sent: 06 August 2017 12:44 To: Tim Ward ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Tyre Pressures Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 Von: "Tim Ward" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 9 09:06:43 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:06:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Ah, one of our favorite 'religious topics.' FWIW, I've used MT-90 for many years and probably at least 60,000 miles and swear by it (I ought to keep track of this, but record-keeping is not my strong suit). I never bought the 'use non-detergent oil so the sludge can build up in the bottom of the case' theory (anybody want 'sludge' in their arteries?). Unless you constantly grind gears there shouldn't be a lot of loose metal in a gearbox/OD (IMO). When I do change out the Redline the only metal particles in the oil are extremely finely ground particles--you can't feel them if you rub the oil between your fingers--of what appears to be brass (you can only see the particles in bright sunlight). I presume the brass is from the shifting forks wearing down; I expect using synthetic oil mitigates--but can't eliminate--that. My OD screen with magnets never has anything appreciable on it, and when I had the gearbox out the bottom and side walls were spotless. A lot of greases--e.g. molybdenum and lithium--are finely ground soft metals suspended in oil, and brass is a soft metal. I used 20W-50 dino oil for a few years/thousand miles but tried the Redline hoping to get a little quicker engagement from a hot OD. I wasn't expecting it, so no confirmation bias, but I swear the gearbox shifts smoother*. Yeah, it's harder to contain but that's a small price to pay IMO. I've gone through the gearbox once already, and will be doing so again soon, and the gears appear perfect so either type of oil is good as far as lubricating properties. My OD has almost 200K miles on it and while I have it out I'll probably check the accumulator rings and bore, and the pump, and as I already have a new one I might change the solenoid, but on the advice of this list I'll otherwise leave it alone. I use MT-90 in my BJ8 and BN2, and Redline gear oil in both (75W-90 in the BN2, and 75W-110 in the BJ8, which quiets a mild whine a bit). I'm contemplating going to a synthetic oil in the BJ8 engine eventually as the PCV has all but eliminated the leak from the rear 'seal.' Like our cars, most of us were 'manufactured' in the 50s and 60s; if you follow the 'use what the factory recommended in 1959' trope we should only allow doctors to treat us with medicines and surgical techniques available then (no arthroscopic surgery for you). Lubricants have come a long way in the last 60 years (one possible exception is the reduction/elimination of ZDDP in engine oil, but we have plenty of alternatives and I think we all appreciate cleaner air). Bob * When I bought my Mustang GT, I thought the shifting action was rough and 'notchy.' I checked the Mustang forums, and got a recommendation to use synthetic gearbox oil, specifically Royal Purple Synchromax (the oil recommended by Ford is actually an ATF). Sure enough, the shifting action improved and, supposedly, the RP 'conditions' the gearbox over time so it keeps improving. I can't prove that, but I don't dispute it either. On 8/8/2017 8:24 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > Mike, > I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive > background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive > completely rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the > recommended oil for the transmission. The original Healey manuals are > not consistent either, the shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey > service bulletins from the day recommend 30W. Coming up with the right > oil is further complicated by the design of a Healey transmission > which is two different transmissions with a common oil system. One > transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro rings that are not > compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants and the other > is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement but > these are the steps I went through to select the oil I would use: > 1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals > used in older transmissions. > 2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level > of EP protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications. > 3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was > recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50. > The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear > oil. Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil > Synthetic 70W-90 GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the > Red Line but both should work well. Do not use a GL5 as the additives > are not compatible with brass. I looked into why Austin switched their > recommended oil from 20W50 to 30W and concluded it was for a lower > viscosity at lower temperatures i.e. when the transmission is cold. > Viscosity is another important consideration. 70W-90 GL4 has the same > viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a better low > temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with Pennzoil > Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest > openings and cracks and the transmission may leak a little more but > that is evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have > heard Red Line MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil. > For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine > oils and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared > by looking at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve. > I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I > recommend you reach your own conclusion. > Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael MacLean > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Russ Thompson > > Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in > Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low > mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to > put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took > this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have > worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller > center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced > it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge > spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be > real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro > was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be > re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse > gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and > it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. > I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using > 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline > MTL is? > Mike MacLean > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Wed Aug 9 09:06:40 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:06:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> fH5EdBrDHvY8OfH5IdWWIi Yes that is what I do, and meant by a few light taps compared to the 8-10 slogs needed to loosen them. From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:50 PM To: Roger Grace Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners Short answer: No. How did you come to think that a couple of light taps were all that was needed to hold your wheel secure? Hit them with your mallet until they stop turning. But before that, make sure that you have lifted the wheel? up and into full engagement with the hub before lowering the wheel enough to keep it from turning when you hit the knock off. Turn the knock off as far as you can by hand rocking the wheel in a couple of directions while trying to turn the knock off. Only then put a load on the wheel. It is time to worry when your knockoffs Loosen. Your car is just trying to keep you alive, Roger -RolandSent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.From: Roger Grace Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:05 PM To: Healey List Reply To: Roger Grace Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. What gives ? Anyone else encountered this issue ? rg Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 9 09:16:51 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:16:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressure Gauges; was Re: Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <1502019853119.7363850.837482da394ca1dc8be203d8b109db4cf9bb4076@spica.telekom.de> <01c201d30f53$e94fa710$bbeef530$@aol.com> <007801d310ea$216a90a0$643fb1e0$@aol.com> <40cc0ed0-81d1-007d-7003-916dcc0a41d5@chello.nl> I like this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080QHMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Accuracy is claimed to be +/- 0.05 PSI; but as they only read to nearest 0.5 PSI I think that's a typo. They feel a little flimsy but so far have held up, and the large LED display helps my old eyes. Bob On 8/9/2017 3:29 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, > but when you need it the battery is usually flat. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward: >> >> Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily >> accessible >> >> All the best >> >> Tim >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 9 09:25:09 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:25:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <374061183.59667.1502239628998@mail.yahoo.com> <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B08408@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> Good info! Just how much harsher is engagement with the larger accumulator? As one who always tries to shift as smoothly as possible--without slipping the clutch much, if any--is engagement so harsh as to require a slip of the clutch which, of course, will contribute to clutch wear? If clutch isn't used, is engagement so harsh as to be a 'shock' to the drivetrain; i.e. U-joints, splines, differential gears? Bob On 8/9/2017 5:58 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: > > Mike, > > The original OD design used a 1 ?? accumulator piston with a > concentric double spring. This configuration was used in a lot of > different vehicles including the Triumphs. Donald Healey didn?t like > how the OD engaged harshly when the clutch was not used during the > shift. He changed the design to incorporate a sleeve fitted in the 1 > ?? bore with a smaller 1 1/8? accumulator piston inside of the sleeve > and a single spring. This gave a slower engagement much like a modern > automatic transmission. However, as the OD wears the internal leakage > increases and the OD will engage very slowly or not at all. Using > the larger accumulator is a good idea (in my opinion) and will delay > the point when internal leakage causes a problem. > > Ed > > > Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. > > Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. > > 6418 Commerce Park Drive > > Fort Myers, Florida 33966 > > phone: (239) 245-8728 > > cell: (239) 410-6174 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael MacLean > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 08, 2017 8:47 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Russ Thompson > > Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in > Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low > mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to > put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took > this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have > worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller > center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced > it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge > spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be > real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro > was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be > re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse > gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and > it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. > > I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends > using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight > Redline MTL is? > > Mike MacLean > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 9 09:38:24 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:38:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <374061183.59667.1502239628998@mail.yahoo.com> We have rebuilt 100s of Healey transmissions over the years and they all get the same basic parts no matter what. Why would you spend that much money and the labor to remove and install the transmission and try and save $150.00 and not replace two syncro rings. We always rebuild both the transmission and overdrive, replace all bearings, seals and syncros in the transmission. The overdrive always gets new bearings, accumulator and piston. The larger piston is a nice upgrade but it will go into overdrive very strongly, there is not slow engagment of the overdrive. If you use the Red Line oil you MUST seal the bell housing bolts with copper washers and thread sealer. They go into the transmission and are exposed to the oil. If you use a synthetic oil it WILL leak past the threads unless sealed. The Red Line MTL is a 75/80 wt gear oil which is the same viscosity as a 30 wt non detergent engine oil which is the recomeneded oil. We have been using the Red Line MTL in all the British transmissions for many years Healeys, MGs, Triumphs and Jaguars. We have found that the all shift smoother. We have had a couple of MGs that were hard shifting and simply changed the fluid to the Red Line MTL and solved the problem. I would not recommend using thou if you havent rebuilt and sealed the transmission because it WILL leak. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjhco at att.net Wed Aug 9 09:49:01 2017 From: rjhco at att.net (Richard J. Hockert) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 10:49:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> <67F1802F-611F-466B-AB6A-88F755E5919A@schoerner.se> <8CA5B07BE233440895482F03E1826328@Notebook> I have same issue. Make sure to adequately grease the hubs. Self tighten a lot especially when driving hard. Best regards, Jim > On Aug 9, 2017, at 5:07 AM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > > ...you're probably not tightening them enough in the first place & they're just doing what they're supposed to. I give mine a hell of a lot more than a couple of light taps! > > Cheers > > Peter > > From: Per Schoerner > Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 6:38 PM > To: Roger Grace > Cc: Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners > > Hi > Try it with the car raised from ground, much easier that way. Btw. I also only tighten them by hand and one or two blows with a rubber mallet, no point in tightening them any more than that. > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > >> 9 aug. 2017 kl. 03:05 skrev Roger Grace : >> >> On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. >> Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. >> When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. >> After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. >> It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. >> What gives ? >> Anyone else encountered this issue ? >> rg >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjhco at att.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Aug 9 10:01:05 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 10:01:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. References: <338044C262C7416AB2D708CB186FA6A5@HomePC> Well.... After studying a dozen good pictures, it is clear that the top in the Boras Motor website ( http://healeyspecialists.com/making-a-complete-new-interior-for-a-bn1/ ) is not the Robins top that we get from Moss. The Boras header wrap is sans the secondary flap and it seems might be more prone to allow water to enter. Again the pictures just aren't conclusive. I had it done (almost) as the pixs Dave Nock sent, then decided to try the Boras method and it requires folding the flap back on top of itself in a way that just doesn't seem logical, given the Brits love of simplicity.. back to the drawing board. On 8/8/2017 8:50 AM, S. Carr wrote: > I'm sure Dave isn't the only one who'd find those photos useful -- I > certainly could use them too! > > Sarah Carr > BN1 (still under restoration) in PA > > -----Original Message----- From: David Porter > Sent: Monday, August 07, 2017 8:04 PM > To: healeys at autox team. net > Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. > > Despite the excellent Moment/Anderson restoration guide there are no > usable pictures of how the 100 convertible top is attached with the > secondary flap at the header. > Can someone send me a few close ups of the way it should be. > Thanks! > Dave > > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From roggrace at telus.net Wed Aug 9 10:14:32 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 09:14:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <374061183.59667.1502239628998@mail.yahoo.com> fSwHdgdkMhlzSfSwId7cEG Well me, plus 2 others that I know of, had very bad foaming with 30 wt non detergent oil in AH transmission; Castrol does not recommend this oil for transmissions. Have some pix if anyone is interested. rg From: Bruce Steele Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 7:28 AM To: 'Michael MacLean' ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson I?ve always run 30W non-detergent, but I?m trying the 40W Russ put in. I asked Russ about it, and he said he?s always used 40W. Given temperature is not a factor in So Cal, the thicker oil may perform a bit better in the heat here. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 9 10:20:33 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 18:20:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures References: <019701d30e9c$69ae3d30$3d0ab790$@aol.com> <1502019853119.7363850.837482da394ca1dc8be203d8b109db4cf9bb4076@spica.telekom.de> <01c201d30f53$e94fa710$bbeef530$@aol.com> <007801d310ea$216a90a0$643fb1e0$@aol.com> PCL has always been a top brand, even their rudimentary analogue pencil gauges were decent. Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-8-2017 om 17:03 schreef Roger Grace: > Being an anal pia about measurement errors, I imported a PCL Accura-1 > digital gauge; it even comes with a calibration certificate and I am > not kidding !! > rg > https://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/tyre-inflation-equipment/handheld-tyre-inflators/accura-1-tyre-inflators/ > *From:* Oudesluys > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 9, 2017 3:29 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, > but when you need it the battery is usually flat. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward: >> >> Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily >> accessible >> >> All the best >> >> Tim >> >> *From:*WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:YNOTINK at msn.com] >> *Sent:* 09 August 2017 02:43 >> *To:* Tim Ward mailto:timwarduk at aol.com; josef-eckert at t-online.de; >> 'Healeys, Forum' mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures >> >> Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI. >> >> Bill Lawrence >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> *From:*Healeys on behalf of Tim Ward >> >> *Sent:* Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM >> *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum' >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures >> >> Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your >> confirmation >> >> Tim >> >> *From:*josef-eckert at t-online.de [mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de] >> *Sent:* 06 August 2017 12:44 >> *To:* Tim Ward ; Healeys, Forum >> >> *Subject:* Tyre Pressures >> >> Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. >> >> Josef Eckert >> >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> >> -----Original-Nachricht----- >> >> Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures >> >> Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 >> >> Von: "Tim Ward" >> >> An: "healeys at autox.team.net" >> >> Hi >> >> Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in >> the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly >> on Motorways. >> >> So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. >> >> Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the >> different roads. >> >> I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein >> Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H >> >> As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom >> >> Many thanks >> >> Tim >> >> BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige >> >> Tim Ward >> >> Warwick House >> >> 12 Mill Road >> >> Kislingbury >> >> NN7 4BB >> >> Tel: 07855 388 751 >> >> http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ >> >> http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php >> >> ? >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Aug 9 13:34:07 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 19:34:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <374061183.59667.1502239628998@mail.yahoo.com> <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B08408@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> I got the idea from Russ that it would be more positive, not very extreme.? Just not what you are used to with the sleeve.? Of course you can't take my word for it.? I have no reference point as this BN2 is my first big Healey.? Sure wish my Bugeye had overdrive. Wow! What mileage I could get out it then! Mike MacLean On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 12:30 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Good info!? Just how much harsher is engagement with the larger accumulator?? As one who always tries to shift as smoothly as possible--without slipping the clutch much, if any--is engagement so harsh as to require a slip of the clutch which, of course, will contribute to clutch wear?? If clutch isn't used, is engagement so harsh as to be a 'shock' to the drivetrain; i.e. U-joints, splines, differential gears? Bob On 8/9/2017 5:58 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: #yiv0624408546 #yiv0624408546 -- _filtered #yiv0624408546 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv0624408546 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}#yiv0624408546 #yiv0624408546 p.yiv0624408546MsoNormal, #yiv0624408546 li.yiv0624408546MsoNormal, #yiv0624408546 div.yiv0624408546MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv0624408546 a:link, #yiv0624408546 span.yiv0624408546MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0624408546 a:visited, #yiv0624408546 span.yiv0624408546MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0624408546 span.yiv0624408546EmailStyle17 {color:windowtext;}#yiv0624408546 .yiv0624408546MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv0624408546 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv0624408546 div.yiv0624408546WordSection1 {}#yiv0624408546 Mike, ? The original OD design used a 1 ?? accumulator piston with a concentric double spring.? This configuration was used in a lot of different vehicles including the Triumphs.? Donald Healey didn?t like how the OD engaged harshly when the clutch was not used during the shift.? He changed the design to incorporate a sleeve fitted in the 1 ?? bore with a smaller 1 1/8? accumulator piston inside of the sleeve and a single spring.? This gave a slower engagement much like a modern automatic transmission.? However, as the OD wears the internal leakage increases and the OD will engage very slowly or not at all.? Using ?the larger accumulator is a good idea (in my opinion) and will delay the point when internal leakage causes a problem. ? Ed ? ed at wadsworthoneal.com ? Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida? 33966 phone:? (239) 245-8728 cell:??????? (239) 410-6174 ? ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 8:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson ? ???? Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission.? It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again.? Good thing I took this precaution.? Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked.? Today he showed me the accumulator piston.? The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil.? Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive.? There was a huge spring below it.? Anyone heard of this?? He said engagement will be real positive now.? Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced.? The other two were fine and will be re-used.? All the gears showed very little sign of wear.? The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine.? Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. ???? I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission.? Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 9 14:00:10 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 13:00:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Body Batch Numbers We have a BN1 that I need to stamp a new BOdy Batch tag I have the Body number 9912. Is there anyone out there with a late BN1 production date Late July 55 that may have a batch number so we can at least get close. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Wed Aug 9 14:22:29 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 21:22:29 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> <2942679C68B24FAB9DF3D9706CC29F88@WINDOWST93OFP9> They are supposed to be tight. Have you greased the hubs properly before tightening? If they have been on for a while it will take quite a lot of effort to get them off. That is good! Derek On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 4:06 PM, Roger Grace wrote: > Yes that is what I do, and meant by a few light taps compared to the 8-10 > slogs needed to loosen them. > > *From:* Roland Wilhelmy > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:50 PM > *To:* Roger Grace > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners > > Short answer: No. > How did you come to think that a couple of light taps were all that was > needed to hold your wheel secure? > Hit them with your mallet until they stop turning. > But before that, make sure that you have lifted the wheel? up and into > full engagement with the hub before lowering the wheel enough to keep it > from turning when you hit the knock off. Turn the knock off as far as you > can by hand rocking the wheel in a couple of directions while trying to > turn the knock off. Only then put a load on the wheel. > It is time to worry when your knockoffs Loosen. > Your car is just trying to keep you alive, Roger > > -Roland > Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone. > *From: *Roger Grace > *Sent: *Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:05 PM > *To: *Healey List > *Reply To: *Roger Grace > *Subject: *[Healeys] Wheel Spinners > > On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are > over tightening themselves particularly the front. > Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. > When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps > with my lead mallet. > After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just > to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. > It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move > at all ? particularly on roadside. > What gives ? > Anyone else encountered this issue ? > rg > > > > > > Virus-free. > www.avg.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Aug 9 15:18:37 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 14:18:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> just bought a 67 MGB with wire wheels. my Healey has disc wheels. thanks for the advice. any special grease for the hubs? car was a barn find, sat for over 20 years . Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Aug 8, 2017 7:25 PM, "Roger Grace" wrote: > On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are > over tightening themselves particularly the front. > Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. > When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps > with my lead mallet. > After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just > to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. > It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move > at all ? particularly on roadside. > What gives ? > Anyone else encountered this issue ? > rg > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Aug 9 18:19:18 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 17:19:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <374061183.59667.1502239628998@mail.yahoo.com> <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B08408@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> <1455872002.614321.1502307247544@mail.yahoo.com> put a nissan 5 speed in it. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Aug 9, 2017 5:10 PM, "Michael MacLean" wrote: > I got the idea from Russ that it would be more positive, not very > extreme. Just not what you are used to with the sleeve. Of course you > can't take my word for it. I have no reference point as this BN2 is my > first big Healey. Sure wish my Bugeye had overdrive. Wow! What mileage I > could get out it then! > Mike MacLean > > > On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 12:30 PM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > > Good info! Just how much harsher is engagement with the larger > accumulator? As one who always tries to shift as smoothly as > possible--without slipping the clutch much, if any--is engagement so harsh > as to require a slip of the clutch which, of course, will contribute to > clutch wear? If clutch isn't used, is engagement so harsh as to be a > 'shock' to the drivetrain; i.e. U-joints, splines, differential gears? > Bob > > On 8/9/2017 5:58 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: > > Mike, > > The original OD design used a 1 ?? accumulator piston with a concentric > double spring. This configuration was used in a lot of different vehicles > including the Triumphs. Donald Healey didn?t like how the OD engaged > harshly when the clutch was not used during the shift. He changed the > design to incorporate a sleeve fitted in the 1 ?? bore with a smaller 1 > 1/8? accumulator piston inside of the sleeve and a single spring. This > gave a slower engagement much like a modern automatic transmission. > However, as the OD wears the internal leakage increases and the OD will > engage very slowly or not at all. Using the larger accumulator is a good > idea (in my opinion) and will delay the point when internal leakage causes > a problem. > > Ed > > ed at wadsworthoneal.com > > Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. > Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. > 6418 Commerce Park Drive > Fort Myers, Florida 33966 > phone: (239) 245-8728 > cell: (239) 410-6174 > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Michael MacLean > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 08, 2017 8:47 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Russ Thompson > > Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in > Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage > (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and > not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. > Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he > showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored > from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston > from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard > of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low > mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other > two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign > of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can > be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train > is the car. > I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using > 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL > is? > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Aug 9 18:26:30 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 00:26:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: <374061183.59667.1502239628998.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <374061183.59667.1502239628998@mail.yahoo.com> <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B08408@mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> <1455872002.614321.1502307247544@mail.yahoo.com> I'm going to tell Russ on you. ?;-) Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 5:19 PM, i erbs wrote: put a nissan 5 speed in it. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Aug 9, 2017 5:10 PM, "Michael MacLean" wrote: I got the idea from Russ that it would be more positive, not very extreme.? Just not what you are used to with the sleeve.? Of course you can't take my word for it.? I have no reference point as this BN2 is my first big Healey.? Sure wish my Bugeye had overdrive. Wow! What mileage I could get out it then! Mike MacLean On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 12:30 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Good info!? Just how much harsher is engagement with the larger accumulator?? As one who always tries to shift as smoothly as possible--without slipping the clutch much, if any--is engagement so harsh as to require a slip of the clutch which, of course, will contribute to clutch wear?? If clutch isn't used, is engagement so harsh as to be a 'shock' to the drivetrain; i.e. U-joints, splines, differential gears? Bob On 8/9/2017 5:58 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: Mike, ? The original OD design used a 1 ?? accumulator piston with a concentric double spring.? This configuration was used in a lot of different vehicles including the Triumphs.? Donald Healey didn?t like how the OD engaged harshly when the clutch was not used during the shift.? He changed the design to incorporate a sleeve fitted in the 1 ?? bore with a smaller 1 1/8? accumulator piston inside of the sleeve and a single spring.? This gave a slower engagement much like a modern automatic transmission.? However, as the OD wears the internal leakage increases and the OD will engage very slowly or not at all.? Using ?the larger accumulator is a good idea (in my opinion) and will delay the point when internal leakage causes a problem. ? Ed ? ed at wadsworthoneal.com ? Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida? 33966 phone:? (239) 245-8728 cell:??????? (239) 410-6174 ? ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox. team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 8:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson ? ???? Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission.? It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again.? Good thing I took this precaution.? Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked.? Today he showed me the accumulator piston.? The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil.? Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive.? There was a huge spring below it.? Anyone heard of this?? He said engagement will be real positive now.? Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced.? The other two were fine and will be re-used.? All the gears showed very little sign of wear.? The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine.? Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. ???? I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission.? Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys ______________________________ _________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Wed Aug 9 18:45:03 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 00:45:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Body Batch Numbers References: , David, this web link has your information http://www.ah100reg.co.uk/batchnum-htm Looks like Batch 5441 regards Simon Troy, Il batchnum-htm - Austin-Healey 100 Register www.ah100reg.co.uk Register of the Austin-Healey 100 Cars ... Batch Numbers Adding Batch Numbers to every entry on the main lists would have taken up too much space. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of David Nock BCS Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 3:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Body Batch Numbers We have a BN1 that I need to stamp a new BOdy Batch tag I have the Body number 9912. Is there anyone out there with a late BN1 production date Late July 55 that may have a batch number so we can at least get close. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Wed Aug 9 18:53:48 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2017 20:53:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Body Batch Numbers References: David, Body number 887, 9911, 9913, 9923, 9924 are all Jensen Batch #4467. I would be very confident that b. #9912 is also in Batch #4467. The number can jump around a lot but seem very consistent in this range. Randy Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar ahca100registrar at gmail.com www.austinhealey100m.com > On Aug 9, 2017, at 4:00 PM, David Nock BCS wrote: > > We have a BN1 that I need to stamp a new BOdy Batch tag I have the Body number 9912. Is there anyone out there with a late BN1 production date Late July 55 that may have a batch number so we can at least get close. > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Aug 9 20:01:26 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 20:01:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. References: <338044C262C7416AB2D708CB186FA6A5@HomePC> <6a3d9a0c-4117-960b-f6ad-9d55edb7f9a0@porterscustom.com> Perry, et al. since there is a disagreement about this flap, I have compromised a bit. Since one needs that piece to wrap the header bar and wood bow, what I did was to move the "flap" a bit higher so the chrome frame is still exposed a bit. I should have it done by mid-day tomorrow. I'll post my pictures then or soon after... dave On 8/9/2017 6:28 PM, Perry wrote: > > David > > I?ll get a couple photos of our 100 with a Robins top and get them to > you in a bit. > > Perry > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *Sent: *Wednesday, August 9, 2017 8:24 PM > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. > > Well.... After studying a dozen good pictures, it is clear that the top > > in the Boras Motor website ( > > http://healeyspecialists.com/making-a-complete-new-interior-for-a-bn1/ ) > > is not the Robins top that we get from Moss. The Boras header wrap is > > sans the secondary flap and it seems might be more prone to allow water > > to enter. Again the pictures just aren't conclusive. I had it done > > (almost) as the pixs Dave Nock sent, then decided to try the Boras > > method and it requires folding the flap back on top of itself in a way > > that just doesn't seem logical, given the Brits love of simplicity.. > > back to the drawing board. > > On 8/8/2017 8:50 AM, S. Carr wrote: > > > I'm sure Dave isn't the only one who'd find those photos useful -- I > > > certainly could use them too! > > > > > > Sarah Carr > > > BN1 (still under restoration) in PA > > > > > > -----Original Message----- From: David Porter > > > Sent: Monday, August 07, 2017 8:04 PM > > > To: healeys at autox team. net > > > Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. > > > > > > Despite the excellent Moment/Anderson restoration guide there are no > > > usable pictures of how the 100 convertible top is attached with the > > > secondary flap at the header. > > > Can someone send me a few close ups of the way it should be. > > > Thanks! > > > Dave > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM > > 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Aug 9 20:08:59 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 19:08:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Body Batch Numbers References: David, I'll be home in two hours and I'll send you the batch number. Curt On Aug 9, 2017 5:36 PM, "David Nock BCS" wrote: > We have a BN1 that I need to stamp a new BOdy Batch tag I have the Body > number 9912. Is there anyone out there with a late BN1 production date > Late July 55 that may have a batch number so we can at least get close. > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 <(209)%20948-8767> > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 9 20:29:12 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 19:29:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> You'll probably get recommendations for Copaslip or another anti-seize, but I've found any good grease--moly, wheel bearing, etc. (I think lithium is too light)--works fine. There shouldn't be any movement between the splines--if there is you need new hub(s)--and any good grease will make a moisture/rust barrier. You'll be taking the wheels off every five thousand miles or so to rotate them anyway, right? You may have a hard time getting the wheels off the 'B. Bob On 8/9/2017 2:18 PM, i erbs wrote: > just bought a 67 MGB with wire wheels. my Healey has disc wheels. > thanks for the advice. any special grease for the hubs? car was a barn > find, sat for over 20 years . > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > On Aug 8, 2017 7:25 PM, "Roger Grace" > On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels > are over tightening themselves particularly the front. > Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not > happy. > When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of > taps with my lead mallet. > After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the > spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. > It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them > to move at all ? particularly on roadside. > What gives ? > Anyone else encountered this issue ? > rg > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed Aug 9 20:44:52 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 22:44:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> <67F1802F-611F-466B-AB6A-88F755E5919A@schoerner.se> Hmm, I was taught (as a young apprentice with British Leyland in the late 70s), to beat the daylights out of them until they are really tight. I spin the wheel as I go so I am not hitting on the same ?ear? of the knock-off. I have done that religiously for the 43 years I have owned my BT7 and never had an issue. When I worked in a garage that specialized in English sports cars, we used to occasionally get cars in that the owner said needed u-joints because there was a knock when braking or accelerating, It sometimes turned out to be the wheels and a few good cracks with ?ole Thor corrected the problem. That said I have only seen a wire wheel come off once because the knock-off unscrewed. It was a TR3 that an uninformed tow truck driver had picked up from the back and towed ?backwards?. Knock-offs undid themselves. I still think that it would not have happened if they were good and tight. Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Per Schoerner Sent: August-09-17 4:39 AM To: Roger Grace Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners Hi Try it with the car raised from ground, much easier that way. Btw. I also only tighten them by hand and one or two blows with a rubber mallet, no point in tightening them any more than that. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone 9 aug. 2017 kl. 03:05 skrev Roger Grace : On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. What gives ? Anyone else encountered this issue ? rg _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmcharris at hotmail.com Wed Aug 9 23:19:54 2017 From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 05:19:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson References: Had an issue with my OD not disengaging years ago...switched to Redline 75/90 Gear oil....no problems since. George Mcharris ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 240 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: I really need some pictures. (David Porter) 2. Russ Thompson (Michael MacLean) 3. Wheel Spinners (Roger Grace) 4. Re: Tyre Pressures (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) 5. Re: Russ Thompson (HealeyRick) 6. Re: Russ Thompson (Harold Manifold) 7. Re: Tyre Pressures (Tim Ward) 8. Re: Wheel Spinners (Per Schoerner) 9. Re: Wheel Spinners (Peter & Veronica) 10. Re: Tyre Pressures (Oudesluys) 11. Re: Russ Thompson (Charlie Baldwin) 12. Re: Russ Thompson (Michael MacLean) 13. Re: Russ Thompson (Ed O'Neal) 14. Re: Russ Thompson (Randy Hicks) 15. Re: Russ Thompson (Bruce Steele) 16. Re: Tyre Pressures (Roger Grace) 17. Re: Russ Thompson (Bob Spidell) 18. Re: Wheel Spinners (Roger Grace) 19. Tyre Pressure Gauges; was Re: Tyre Pressures (Bob Spidell) 20. Re: Russ Thompson (Bob Spidell) 21. Re: Russ Thompson (David Nock BCS) 22. Re: Wheel Spinners (Richard J. Hockert) 23. Re: I really need some pictures. (David Porter) 24. Re: Russ Thompson (Roger Grace) 25. Re: Tyre Pressures (Oudesluys) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 13:50:57 -0600 From: David Porter To: Randall Hicks , healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. http://healeyspecialists.com/making-a-complete-new-interior-for-a-bn1/ [http://healeyspecialists.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DSC9736.jpg] Finished complete new interior for a BN1 healeyspecialists.com Austin Healey 100. A major undertaking, especially when making it right. I made my own correct patterns for the seat covers, which were sent to England and sewn there. On 8/8/2017 12:15 PM, Randall Hicks wrote: > Dave, can you post the photo you got? > > Randy > >> On Aug 8, 2017, at 10:34 AM, David Porter wrote: >> >> the > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 00:47:08 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson ???? Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission.? It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again.? Good thing I took this precaution.? Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked.? Today he showed me the accumulator piston.? The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil.? Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive.? There was a huge spring below it.? Anyone heard of this?? He said engagement will be real positive now.? Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced.? The other two were fine and will be re-used.? All the gears showed very little sign of wear.? The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine.? Getting closer to having the drive train is the car.???? I know I am going to start a dis cussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission.? Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 18:05:19 -0700 From: "Roger Grace" To: "Healey List" Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. What gives ? Anyone else encountered this issue ? rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 01:42:58 +0000 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: Tim Ward , "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "'Healeys, Forum'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Message-ID: Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI. Bill Lawrence ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Tim Ward Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM To: josef-eckert at t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your confirmation Tim From: josef-eckert at t-online.de [mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de] Sent: 06 August 2017 12:44 To: Tim Ward ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Tyre Pressures Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 [cid:image001.gif at 01D30EA4.886BFC00] Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 22:00:38 -0400 From: HealeyRick To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Message-ID: I wouldn't use synthetic in a Healey transmission. I'd go with a 30 wt non-detergent dinosaur oil. Non-detergent so metal particles can fall to the bottom of the tranny. Take a look here: http://www.mgtoronto.com/pdf/Tech/Overdrive_oil.pdf Cheers, Rick Neville On Tue, Aug 8, 2017 at 8:47 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in > Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage > (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and > not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. > Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he > showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored > from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston > from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard > of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low > mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other > two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign > of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can > be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train > is the car. > I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using > 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL > is? > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2017 20:24:01 -0700 From: "Harold Manifold" To: "'Michael MacLean'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Mike, I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive completely rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the recommended oil for the transmission. The original Healey manuals are not consistent either, the shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey service bulletins from the day recommend 30W. Coming up with the right oil is further complicated by the design of a Healey transmission which is two different transmissions with a common oil system. One transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro rings that are not compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants and the other is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement but these are the steps I went through to select the oil I would use: 1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals used in older transmissions. 2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level of EP protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications. 3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50. The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear oil. Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90 GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the Red Line but both should work well. Do not use a GL5 as the additives are not compatible with brass. I looked into why Austin switched their recommended oil from 20W50 to 30W and concluded it was for a lower viscosity at lower temperatures i.e. when the transmission is cold. Viscosity is another important consideration. 70W-90 GL4 has the same viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a better low temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest openings and cracks and the transmission may leak a little more but that is evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have heard Red Line MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil. For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine oils and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared by looking at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve. I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I recommend you reach your own conclusion. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Viscosity Curve.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 118745 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 09:33:06 +0100 From: "Tim Ward" To: "'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'" , , "'Healeys, Forum'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily accessible All the best Tim From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:YNOTINK at msn.com] Sent: 09 August 2017 02:43 To: Tim Ward ; josef-eckert at t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI. Bill Lawrence _____ Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your confirmation Tim Sent: 06 August 2017 12:44 Subject: Tyre Pressures Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 10:38:46 +0200 From: Per Schoerner To: Roger Grace Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners Hi Try it with the car raised from ground, much easier that way. Btw. I also only tighten them by hand and one or two blows with a rubber mallet, no point in tightening them any more than that. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 9 aug. 2017 kl. 03:05 skrev Roger Grace : > > On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. > Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. > When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. > After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. > It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. > What gives ? > Anyone else encountered this issue ? > rg > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 20:07:00 +1000 From: "Peter & Veronica" To: "Roger Grace" Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners ...you're probably not tightening them enough in the first place & they're just doing what they're supposed to. I give mine a hell of a lot more than a couple of light taps! Cheers Peter From: Per Schoerner Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 6:38 PM To: Roger Grace Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners Hi Try it with the car raised from ground, much easier that way. Btw. I also only tighten them by hand and one or two blows with a rubber mallet, no point in tightening them any more than that. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone 9 aug. 2017 kl. 03:05 skrev Roger Grace : On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. What gives ? Anyone else encountered this issue ? rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 12:29:15 +0200 From: Oudesluys To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, but when you need it the battery is usually flat. Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward: > > Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily accessible > > All the best > > Tim > > *From:*WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:YNOTINK at msn.com] > *Sent:* 09 August 2017 02:43 > *To:* Tim Ward ; josef-eckert at t-online.de; > 'Healeys, Forum' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > > Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI. > > Bill Lawrence > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*Healeys *Sent:* Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM > 'Healeys, Forum' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > > Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your > confirmation > > Tim > > [mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de] > *Sent:* 06 August 2017 12:44 > *Subject:* Tyre Pressures > > Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > > Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 > > > > Hi > > Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the > Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on > Motorways. > > So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. > > Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the > different roads. > > I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres > 185/70, HR15, 89H > > As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom > > Many thanks > > Tim > > BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige > > Tim Ward > > Warwick House > > 12 Mill Road > > Kislingbury > > NN7 4BB > > Tel: 07855 388 751 > > http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ > > http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php > > ? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 07:44:05 -0400 From: Charlie Baldwin To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Mike, You have probably stepped in it by getting an oil discussion started again. But to answer your question without adding my opinion to it, I believe that when someone on the list contacted Red Line, they recommended MT-90, which from memory is 40 wt. Check Red Line's website: https://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7 They make a good argument for using a gear rated oil in a transmission as Harold also outlines below. As he mentions and we have discussed previously, it seems that the synthetic transmission oils do leak a bit more. Charlie On 8/8/2017 11:24 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > Mike, > I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive > background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive > completely rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the > recommended oil for the transmission. The original Healey manuals are > not consistent either, the shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey > service bulletins from the day recommend 30W. Coming up with the right > oil is further complicated by the design of a Healey transmission > which is two different transmissions with a common oil system. One > transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro rings that are not > compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants and the other > is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement but > these are the steps I went through to select the oil I would use: > 1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals > used in older transmissions. > 2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level > of EP protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications. > 3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was > recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50. > The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear > oil. Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil > Synthetic 70W-90 GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the > Red Line but both should work well. Do not use a GL5 as the additives > are not compatible with brass. I looked into why Austin switched their > recommended oil from 20W50 to 30W and concluded it was for a lower > viscosity at lower temperatures i.e. when the transmission is cold. > Viscosity is another important consideration. 70W-90 GL4 has the same > viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a better low > temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with Pennzoil > Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest > openings and cracks and the transmission may leak a little more but > that is evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have > heard Red Line MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil. > For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine > oils and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared > by looking at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve. > I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I > recommend you reach your own conclusion. > Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael MacLean > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Russ Thompson > > Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in > Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low > mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to > put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took > this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have > worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller > center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced > it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge > spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be > real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro > was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be > re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse > gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and > it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. > I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using > 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline > MTL is? > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 12:51:04 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: "mgcharlie at comcast.net" , "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson If I do use a synthetic oil the leaks may not be a big problem since it has been put back together with all new gaskets. ?I hope.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Wed, Aug 9, 2017 at 5:30 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 12:58:42 +0000 From: Ed O'Neal To: Michael MacLean , Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Message-ID: <5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693CC90B08408 at mbx027-w1-ca-4.exch027.domain.local> Mike, The original OD design used a 1 ?? accumulator piston with a concentric double spring. This configuration was used in a lot of different vehicles including the Triumphs. Donald Healey didn?t like how the OD engaged harshly when the clutch was not used during the shift. He changed the design to incorporate a sleeve fitted in the 1 ?? bore with a smaller 1 1/8? accumulator piston inside of the sleeve and a single spring. This gave a slower engagement much like a modern automatic transmission. However, as the OD wears the internal leakage increases and the OD will engage very slowly or not at all. Using the larger accumulator is a good idea (in my opinion) and will delay the point when internal leakage causes a problem. Ed Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 8:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2017 09:15:22 -0400 From: Randy Hicks To: Charlie Baldwin Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson I have used Redline MT-90 in both 100M's and BJ8 transmissions for 8 - 10 years now exclusively. 6 trips across the USA and Canada, 80,000+ miles. Another one in September. No issues at all. Nice smooth shifting. MTL is thinner and tends to leak more out of the 100?s tranny. Highly recommend. Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M White/Black '56 100 M Florida Green/OEW '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD '77 450 SL Healey100M at me.com > On Aug 9, 2017, at 7:44 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > > Mike, > > You have probably stepped in it by getting an oil discussion started again. > But to answer your question without adding my opinion to it, I believe that when someone on the list contacted Red Line, they recommended MT-90, which from memory is 40 wt. Check Red Line's website: https://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7 > They make a good argument for using a gear rated oil in a transmission as Harold also outlines below. As he mentions and we have discussed previously, it seems that the synthetic transmission oils do leak a bit more. > > Charlie > > On 8/8/2017 11:24 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: >> Mike, >> >> I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive completely rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the recommended oil for the transmission. The original Healey manuals are not consistent either, the shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey service bulletins from the day recommend 30W. Coming up with the right oil is further complicated by the design of a Healey transmission which is two different transmissions with a common oil system. One transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro rings that are not compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants and the other is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement but these are the steps I went through to select the oil I would use: >> >> 1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals used in older transmissions. >> 2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level of EP protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications. >> 3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50. >> >> The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear oil. Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90 GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the Red Line but both should work well. Do not use a GL5 as the additives are not compatible with brass. I looked into why Austin switched their recommended oil from 20W50 to 30W and concluded it was for a lower viscosity at lower temperatures i.e. when the transmission is cold. Viscosity is another important consideration. 70W-90 GL4 has the same viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a better low temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with Pennzoil Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest openings and cracks and the transmission may leak a little more but that is evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have heard Red Line MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil. >> >> For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine oils and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared by looking at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve. >> >> I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I recommend you reach your own conclusion. >> >> Harold >> >> >> >> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM >> To: Healey List >> Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson >> >> Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. >> I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? >> Mike MacLean >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 07:28:50 -0700 From: "Bruce Steele" To: "'Michael MacLean'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson I?ve always run 30W non-detergent, but I?m trying the 40W Russ put in. I asked Russ about it, and he said he?s always used 40W. Given temperature is not a factor in So Cal, the thicker oil may perform a bit better in the heat here. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:03:04 -0700 From: "Roger Grace" To: , "Oudesluys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Being an anal pia about measurement errors, I imported a PCL Accura-1 digital gauge; it even comes with a calibration certificate and I am not kidding !! rg https://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/tyre-inflation-equipment/handheld-tyre-inflators/accura-1-tyre-inflators/ From: Oudesluys Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 3:29 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, but when you need it the battery is usually flat. Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward: Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily accessible All the best Tim From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:YNOTINK at msn.com] Sent: 09 August 2017 02:43 To: Tim Ward mailto:timwarduk at aol.com; josef-eckert at t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum' mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI. Bill Lawrence ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Healeys on behalf of Tim Ward Sent: Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM To: josef-eckert at t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your confirmation Tim From: josef-eckert at t-online.de [mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de] Sent: 06 August 2017 12:44 To: Tim Ward ; Healeys, Forum Subject: Tyre Pressures Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 Von: "Tim Ward" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" Hi Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly on Motorways. So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the different roads. I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom Many thanks Tim BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige Tim Ward Warwick House 12 Mill Road Kislingbury NN7 4BB Tel: 07855 388 751 http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:06:43 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Ah, one of our favorite 'religious topics.' FWIW, I've used MT-90 for many years and probably at least 60,000 miles and swear by it (I ought to keep track of this, but record-keeping is not my strong suit). I never bought the 'use non-detergent oil so the sludge can build up in the bottom of the case' theory (anybody want 'sludge' in their arteries?). Unless you constantly grind gears there shouldn't be a lot of loose metal in a gearbox/OD (IMO). When I do change out the Redline the only metal particles in the oil are extremely finely ground particles--you can't feel them if you rub the oil between your fingers--of what appears to be brass (you can only see the particles in bright sunlight). I presume the brass is from the shifting forks wearing down; I expect using synthetic oil mitigates--but can't eliminate--that. My OD screen with magnets never has anything appreciable on it, and when I had the gearbox out the bottom and side walls were spotless. A lot of greases--e.g. molybdenum and lithium--are finely ground soft metals suspended in oil, and brass is a soft metal. I used 20W-50 dino oil for a few years/thousand miles but tried the Redline hoping to get a little quicker engagement from a hot OD. I wasn't expecting it, so no confirmation bias, but I swear the gearbox shifts smoother*. Yeah, it's harder to contain but that's a small price to pay IMO. I've gone through the gearbox once already, and will be doing so again soon, and the gears appear perfect so either type of oil is good as far as lubricating properties. My OD has almost 200K miles on it and while I have it out I'll probably check the accumulator rings and bore, and the pump, and as I already have a new one I might change the solenoid, but on the advice of this list I'll otherwise leave it alone. I use MT-90 in my BJ8 and BN2, and Redline gear oil in both (75W-90 in the BN2, and 75W-110 in the BJ8, which quiets a mild whine a bit). I'm contemplating going to a synthetic oil in the BJ8 engine eventually as the PCV has all but eliminated the leak from the rear 'seal.' Like our cars, most of us were 'manufactured' in the 50s and 60s; if you follow the 'use what the factory recommended in 1959' trope we should only allow doctors to treat us with medicines and surgical techniques available then (no arthroscopic surgery for you). Lubricants have come a long way in the last 60 years (one possible exception is the reduction/elimination of ZDDP in engine oil, but we have plenty of alternatives and I think we all appreciate cleaner air). Bob * When I bought my Mustang GT, I thought the shifting action was rough and 'notchy.' I checked the Mustang forums, and got a recommendation to use synthetic gearbox oil, specifically Royal Purple Synchromax (the oil recommended by Ford is actually an ATF). Sure enough, the shifting action improved and, supposedly, the RP 'conditions' the gearbox over time so it keeps improving. I can't prove that, but I don't dispute it either. On 8/8/2017 8:24 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > Mike, > I am new to the Healey world but I am an engineer with an automotive > background who recently had a BN4 transmission with an overdrive > completely rebuilt. I could not find a consistent answer on the > recommended oil for the transmission. The original Healey manuals are > not consistent either, the shop manual recommends 20W50 and the Healey > service bulletins from the day recommend 30W. Coming up with the right > oil is further complicated by the design of a Healey transmission > which is two different transmissions with a common oil system. One > transmission is a traditional gear type with syncro rings that are not > compatible with the additives in modern gear lubricants and the other > is a hydraulic pump. I am sure there will be much disagreement but > these are the steps I went through to select the oil I would use: > 1. The additives had to be compatible with brass and other soft metals > used in older transmissions. > 2. The oil should be designed to work with gears and have some level > of EP protection. Note very few engine oils meet gear oil specifications. > 3. The oil should have a viscosity similar 30W engine oil which was > recommended in an Austin Service bulletin in 1960 replacing 20W50. > The oil that best fits all of these requirements is a 70W-90 GL4 gear > oil. Red Line MT-90 meets this specification as does Pennzoil > Synthetic 70W-90 GL4. I picked the Pennzoil as it costs less than the > Red Line but both should work well. Do not use a GL5 as the additives > are not compatible with brass. I looked into why Austin switched their > recommended oil from 20W50 to 30W and concluded it was for a lower > viscosity at lower temperatures i.e. when the transmission is cold. > Viscosity is another important consideration. 70W-90 GL4 has the same > viscosity as 30W engine oil above 35 degrees C and a better low > temperature viscosity. The only downside I have seen with Pennzoil > Synthetic 70W-90 GL4 is that it can get through even the smallest > openings and cracks and the transmission may leak a little more but > that is evidence the oil is getting every where it should. I have > heard Red Line MT-90 doesn't leak as much as the Pennzoil. > For those that may doubt the viscosity claims please note that engine > oils and gears oils are classified differently and should be compared > by looking at the numbers on the can. See the attached viscosity curve. > I trust this helps but I want to emphasize this is the oil I use and I > recommend you reach your own conclusion. > Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael MacLean > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Russ Thompson > > Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in > Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low > mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to > put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took > this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have > worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller > center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced > it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge > spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be > real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro > was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be > re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse > gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and > it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. > I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using > 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline > MTL is? > Mike MacLean > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:06:40 -0700 From: "Roger Grace" To: "Roland Wilhelmy" , "Healey List" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners Yes that is what I do, and meant by a few light taps compared to the 8-10 slogs needed to loosen them. From: Roland Wilhelmy Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:50 PM To: Roger Grace Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners Short answer: No. How did you come to think that a couple of light taps were all that was needed to hold your wheel secure? Hit them with your mallet until they stop turning. But before that, make sure that you have lifted the wheel? up and into full engagement with the hub before lowering the wheel enough to keep it from turning when you hit the knock off. Turn the knock off as far as you can by hand rocking the wheel in a couple of directions while trying to turn the knock off. Only then put a load on the wheel. It is time to worry when your knockoffs Loosen. Your car is just trying to keep you alive, Roger -RolandSent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.From: Roger Grace Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 7:05 PM To: Healey List Reply To: Roger Grace Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. What gives ? Anyone else encountered this issue ? rg Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:16:51 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Tyre Pressure Gauges; was Re: Tyre Pressures I like this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080QHMM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Accuracy is claimed to be +/- 0.05 PSI; but as they only read to nearest 0.5 PSI I think that's a typo. They feel a little flimsy but so far have held up, and the large LED display helps my old eyes. Bob On 8/9/2017 3:29 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, > but when you need it the battery is usually flat. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward: >> >> Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily >> accessible >> >> All the best >> >> Tim >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:25:09 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Good info! Just how much harsher is engagement with the larger accumulator? As one who always tries to shift as smoothly as possible--without slipping the clutch much, if any--is engagement so harsh as to require a slip of the clutch which, of course, will contribute to clutch wear? If clutch isn't used, is engagement so harsh as to be a 'shock' to the drivetrain; i.e. U-joints, splines, differential gears? Bob On 8/9/2017 5:58 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: > > Mike, > > The original OD design used a 1 ?? accumulator piston with a > concentric double spring. This configuration was used in a lot of > different vehicles including the Triumphs. Donald Healey didn?t like > how the OD engaged harshly when the clutch was not used during the > shift. He changed the design to incorporate a sleeve fitted in the 1 > ?? bore with a smaller 1 1/8? accumulator piston inside of the sleeve > and a single spring. This gave a slower engagement much like a modern > automatic transmission. However, as the OD wears the internal leakage > increases and the OD will engage very slowly or not at all. Using > the larger accumulator is a good idea (in my opinion) and will delay > the point when internal leakage causes a problem. > > Ed > > > Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. > > Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. > > 6418 Commerce Park Drive > > Fort Myers, Florida 33966 > > phone: (239) 245-8728 > > cell: (239) 410-6174 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael MacLean > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 08, 2017 8:47 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Russ Thompson > > Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in > Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low > mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to > put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took > this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have > worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller > center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced > it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge > spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be > real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro > was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be > re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse > gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and > it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. > > I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends > using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight > Redline MTL is? > > Mike MacLean > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 08:38:24 -0700 From: "David Nock BCS" To: "Michael MacLean" , "Healey List" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson We have rebuilt 100s of Healey transmissions over the years and they all get the same basic parts no matter what. Why would you spend that much money and the labor to remove and install the transmission and try and save $150.00 and not replace two syncro rings. We always rebuild both the transmission and overdrive, replace all bearings, seals and syncros in the transmission. The overdrive always gets new bearings, accumulator and piston. The larger piston is a nice upgrade but it will go into overdrive very strongly, there is not slow engagment of the overdrive. If you use the Red Line oil you MUST seal the bell housing bolts with copper washers and thread sealer. They go into the transmission and are exposed to the oil. If you use a synthetic oil it WILL leak past the threads unless sealed. The Red Line MTL is a 75/80 wt gear oil which is the same viscosity as a 30 wt non detergent engine oil which is the recomeneded oil. We have been using the Red Line MTL in all the British transmissions for many years Healeys, MGs, Triumphs and Jaguars. We have found that the all shift smoother. We have had a couple of MGs that were hard shifting and simply changed the fluid to the Red Line MTL and solved the problem. I would not recommend using thou if you havent rebuilt and sealed the transmission because it WILL leak. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 10:49:01 -0500 From: "Richard J. Hockert" To: Peter & Veronica Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners I have same issue. Make sure to adequately grease the hubs. Self tighten a lot especially when driving hard. Best regards, Jim > On Aug 9, 2017, at 5:07 AM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > > ...you're probably not tightening them enough in the first place & they're just doing what they're supposed to. I give mine a hell of a lot more than a couple of light taps! > > Cheers > > Peter > > From: Per Schoerner > Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 6:38 PM > To: Roger Grace > Cc: Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners > > Hi > Try it with the car raised from ground, much easier that way. Btw. I also only tighten them by hand and one or two blows with a rubber mallet, no point in tightening them any more than that. > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > >> 9 aug. 2017 kl. 03:05 skrev Roger Grace : >> >> On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. >> Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. >> When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. >> After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. >> It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. >> What gives ? >> Anyone else encountered this issue ? >> rg >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjhco at att.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 10:01:05 -0600 From: David Porter To: "S. Carr" , "healeys at autox team. net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. Well.... After studying a dozen good pictures, it is clear that the top in the Boras Motor website ( http://healeyspecialists.com/making-a-complete-new-interior-for-a-bn1/ ) is not the Robins top that we get from Moss. The Boras header wrap is sans the secondary flap and it seems might be more prone to allow water to enter. Again the pictures just aren't conclusive. I had it done (almost) as the pixs Dave Nock sent, then decided to try the Boras method and it requires folding the flap back on top of itself in a way that just doesn't seem logical, given the Brits love of simplicity.. back to the drawing board. On 8/8/2017 8:50 AM, S. Carr wrote: > I'm sure Dave isn't the only one who'd find those photos useful -- I > certainly could use them too! > > Sarah Carr > BN1 (still under restoration) in PA > > -----Original Message----- From: David Porter > Sent: Monday, August 07, 2017 8:04 PM > To: healeys at autox team. net > Subject: [Healeys] I really need some pictures. > > Despite the excellent Moment/Anderson restoration guide there are no > usable pictures of how the 100 convertible top is attached with the > secondary flap at the header. > Can someone send me a few close ups of the way it should be. > Thanks! > Dave > > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 09:14:32 -0700 From: "Roger Grace" To: "Bruce Steele" , "'Michael MacLean'" , "'Healey List'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Well me, plus 2 others that I know of, had very bad foaming with 30 wt non detergent oil in AH transmission; Castrol does not recommend this oil for transmissions. Have some pix if anyone is interested. rg From: Bruce Steele Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 7:28 AM To: 'Michael MacLean' ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Russ Thompson I?ve always run 30W non-detergent, but I?m trying the 40W Russ put in. I asked Russ about it, and he said he?s always used 40W. Given temperature is not a factor in So Cal, the thicker oil may perform a bit better in the heat here. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 5:47 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Russ Thompson Through a reference from the list I am having Russ Thompson in Northridge, California rebuild my BN2 transmission. It is a low mileage (10,000 mi. approx) transmission, but I wanted to be able to put it in and not have to take it back out again. Good thing I took this precaution. Russ found the overdrive stuck and would never have worked. Today he showed me the accumulator piston. The smaller center piston was scored from dirt or crap in the oil. Russ replaced it with a one piece piston from a Triumph overdrive. There was a huge spring below it. Anyone heard of this? He said engagement will be real positive now. Even with the low mileage, the number 2 synchro was toast and will be replaced. The other two were fine and will be re-used. All the gears showed very little sign of wear. The reverse gear had some surface rust on the teeth, but that can be blasted and it will be fine. Getting closer to having the drive train is the car. I know I am going to start a discussion, but Russ recommends using 40wt motor oil for the transmission. Anyone know what weight Redline MTL is? Mike MacLean Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 18:20:33 +0200 From: Oudesluys To: Roger Grace , healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures PCL has always been a top brand, even their rudimentary analogue pencil gauges were decent. Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-8-2017 om 17:03 schreef Roger Grace: > Being an anal pia about measurement errors, I imported a PCL Accura-1 > digital gauge; it even comes with a calibration certificate and I am > not kidding !! > rg > https://www.pclairtechnology.com/products/tyre-inflation-equipment/handheld-tyre-inflators/accura-1-tyre-inflators/ > *From:* Oudesluys > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 9, 2017 3:29 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures > Make sure it is accurate, many are way out! Best bet is a digital one, > but when you need it the battery is usually flat. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 9-8-2017 om 10:33 schreef Tim Ward: >> >> Thanks Bill, I do have one in the car but I will keep it easily >> accessible >> >> All the best >> >> Tim >> >> *From:*WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:YNOTINK at msn.com] >> *Sent:* 09 August 2017 02:43 >> *To:* Tim Ward mailto:timwarduk at aol.com; josef-eckert at t-online.de; >> 'Healeys, Forum' mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures >> >> Take along your own pressure gauge and read it in PSI. >> >> Bill Lawrence >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> *From:*Healeys on behalf of Tim Ward >> >> *Sent:* Monday, August 7, 2017 8:05:11 AM >> *To:* josef-eckert at t-online.de; 'Healeys, Forum' >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures >> >> Thanks Josef. I thought it might be around that, but welcome your >> confirmation >> >> Tim >> >> *From:*josef-eckert at t-online.de [mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de] >> *Sent:* 06 August 2017 12:44 >> *To:* Tim Ward ; Healeys, Forum >> >> *Subject:* Tyre Pressures >> >> Around 2.0 bars front and rear would be fine. >> >> Josef Eckert >> >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> >> -----Original-Nachricht----- >> >> Betreff: [Healeys] Tyre Pressures >> >> Datum: 2017-08-06T12:44:54+0200 >> >> Von: "Tim Ward" >> >> An: "healeys at autox.team.net" >> >> Hi >> >> Getting the car ready for a drive to the South of France taking in >> the Route des Grandes Alpes all the way to Menton. Then back mostly >> on Motorways. >> >> So the drive will be a mixture of Motorways and Mountain Pass Roads. >> >> Question therefore is what Bar Pressure should I put in for the >> different roads. >> >> I have 72 spoke wheels all fitted with relatively new Vredestein >> Tyres 185/70, HR15, 89H >> >> As usual I look forward to the benefit of your collective wisdom >> >> Many thanks >> >> Tim >> >> BJ8, original Metallic Golden Beige >> >> Tim Ward >> >> Warwick House >> >> 12 Mill Road >> >> Kislingbury >> >> NN7 4BB >> >> Tel: 07855 388 751 >> >> http://www.shuttermagic.co.uk/ >> >> http://www.kislingburyonline.co.uk/index.php >> >> ? >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 240 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 9 23:23:12 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2017 22:23:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> They are designed to tighten when while you drive. You can rectify this by switching the left side and right side knock-offs. By doing so, they will loosen as you drive until the wheel falls off. :) I am in the process repacking the wheel bearings, checking the brakes and rotating the tires. It took me two hours to loosen the two eared knock-offs. One hour and fifteen minutes for the first one and 15 minutes each for the next three after figuring out a better process. I had not loosened them for 6,000 miles since I completed the restoration. Perhaps they need to be loosened on a scheduled basis or there is some other trick some lister might share. John ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 6:05 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. What gives ? Anyone else encountered this issue ? rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Wed Aug 9 23:32:17 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 05:32:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Body Batch Numbers References: , <4A511C7B-D25F-45BD-B099-D2A747DBD926@me.com> Randy, does that mean that this web site contains complete baloney? http://www.ah100reg.co.uk/batchnum-htm If the batch numbers are in ascending order then batch 4467 contains cars that are far higher in body number than my November 54 car from batch 5044 with body number 5856. It just seems odd to me that my body number is much lower than the one David asked abiout, but from a much higher batch? batchnum-htm - Austin-Healey 100 Register www.ah100reg.co.uk Register of the Austin-Healey 100 Cars ... Batch Numbers Adding Batch Numbers to every entry on the main lists would have taken up too much space. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Randy Hicks Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 7:53 PM To: David Nock Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Body Batch Numbers David, Body number 887, 9911, 9913, 9923, 9924 are all Jensen Batch #4467. I would be very confident that b. #9912 is also in Batch #4467. The number can jump around a lot but seem very consistent in this range. Randy Randy Hicks Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee AHCA 100 Registrar www.austinhealey100m.com We have a BN1 that I need to stamp a new BOdy Batch tag I have the Body number 9912. Is there anyone out there with a late BN1 production date Late July 55 that may have a batch number so we can at least get close. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Thu Aug 10 03:14:27 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 10:14:27 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> <000001d31198$c38ee760$4aacb620$@sbcglobal.net> I agree with Bob about the grease. Don't beat the hell out of them to tighten them, they will tighten themselves. Just give them a few good blows until its obvious they aren't going any further. The wheel should be off the ground otherwise all the force is directed into the spokes and risks damaging them. Try heating the spinners if you can't get them off. Worked for me. Derek On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 6:23 AM, John Spaur wrote: > They are designed to tighten when while you drive. You can rectify this by > switching the left side and right side knock-offs. By doing so, they will > loosen as you drive until the wheel falls off. J > > > > I am in the process repacking the wheel bearings, checking the brakes and > rotating the tires. It took me two hours to loosen the two eared > knock-offs. One hour and fifteen minutes for the first one and 15 minutes > each for the next three after figuring out a better process. > > > > I had not loosened them for 6,000 miles since I completed the restoration. > Perhaps they need to be loosened on a scheduled basis or there is some > other trick some lister might share. > > > > John > > ?62 BT7 > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Roger > Grace > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 8, 2017 6:05 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Wheel Spinners > > > > On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are > over tightening themselves particularly the front. > > Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. > > When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps > with my lead mallet. > > After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just > to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. > > It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move > at all ? particularly on roadside. > > What gives ? > > Anyone else encountered this issue ? > > rg > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Aug 10 03:41:53 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 05:41:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> <67F1802F-611F-466B-AB6A-88F755E5919A@schoerner.se> <00b501d31182$a4e35960$eeaa0c20$@sympatico.ca> If the splines are shot, then the knockoff will spin off when the brakes are applied. Saw it once with an MGB that had a flat on the road and borrowed someone's spare that wasn't in good shape. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/09/2017 10:44 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > Hmm, I was taught (as a young apprentice with British Leyland in the > late 70s), to beat the daylights out of them until they are really > tight. I spin the wheel as I go so I am not hitting on the same ?ear? > of the knock-off. I have done that religiously for the 43 years I have > owned my BT7 and never had an issue. When I worked in a garage that > specialized in English sports cars, we used to occasionally get cars in > that the owner said needed u-joints because there was a knock when > braking or accelerating, It sometimes turned out to be the wheels and a > few good cracks with ?ole Thor corrected the problem. > > That said I have only seen a wire wheel come off once because the > knock-off unscrewed. It was a TR3 that an uninformed tow truck driver > had picked up from the back and towed ?backwards?. Knock-offs undid > themselves. I still think that it would not have happened if they were > good and tight. > > Mirek > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Per Schoerner > *Sent:* August-09-17 4:39 AM > *To:* Roger Grace > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners > > Hi > > Try it with the car raised from ground, much easier that way. Btw. I > also only tighten them by hand and one or two blows with a rubber > mallet, no point in tightening them any more than that. > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > > > 9 aug. 2017 kl. 03:05 skrev Roger Grace > On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels > are over tightening themselves particularly the front. > > Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. > > When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of > taps with my lead mallet. > > After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners > just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. > > It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to > move at all ? particularly on roadside. > > What gives ? > > Anyone else encountered this issue ? > > rg > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From healey100m at me.com Thu Aug 10 04:16:12 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 06:16:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Body Batch Numbers References: <4A511C7B-D25F-45BD-B099-D2A747DBD926@me.com> Boy did I get that wrong. I was looking at 887, 911, 913, etc. b. #9892, #9915, & #9928 are all Batch Number 5441 Sorry for the confusion. Randy > On Aug 9, 2017, at 8:53 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > > David, Body number 887, 9911, 9913, 9923, 9924 are all Jensen Batch #4467. I would be very confident that b. #9912 is also in Batch #4467. > > The number can jump around a lot but seem very consistent in this range. > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > Austin Healey Concours Registry Committee > AHCA 100 Registrar > www.austinhealey100m.com > > >> >> We have a BN1 that I need to stamp a new BOdy Batch tag I have the Body number 9912. Is there anyone out there with a late BN1 production date Late July 55 that may have a batch number so we can at least get close. >> >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> 209-948-8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Aug 10 05:01:14 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 7:01:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners that is why I use anti-sieze every time I remove them. ---- John Spaur wrote: ============= They are designed to tighten when while you drive. You can rectify this by switching the left side and right side knock-offs. By doing so, they will loosen as you drive until the wheel falls off. :) I am in the process repacking the wheel bearings, checking the brakes and rotating the tires. It took me two hours to loosen the two eared knock-offs. One hour and fifteen minutes for the first one and 15 minutes each for the next three after figuring out a better process. I had not loosened them for 6,000 miles since I completed the restoration. Perhaps they need to be loosened on a scheduled basis or there is some other trick some lister might share. John ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 6:05 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels are over tightening themselves particularly the front. Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not happy. When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of taps with my lead mallet. After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them to move at all ? particularly on roadside. What gives ? Anyone else encountered this issue ? rg From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 10 10:32:12 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 09:32:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> <000001d31198$c38ee760$4aacb620$@sbcglobal.net> Side note: When you get new wires, apply some silicone RTV--I prefer clear for this application--on the inside of the hubs on the 'heads' (if they were nails) of the spokes. Otherwise, whichever grease you put on the splines and threads of the hubs will ooze out and make a mess. On 8/10/2017 2:14 AM, Derek Job wrote: > I agree with Bob about the grease. > > Don't beat the hell out of them to tighten them, they will tighten > themselves. Just give them a few good blows until its obvious they > aren't going any further. The wheel should be off the ground otherwise > all the force is directed into the spokes and risks damaging them. > > Try heating the spinners if you can't get them off. Worked for me. > > Derek > > On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 6:23 AM, John Spaur > They are designed to tighten when while you drive. You can rectify > this by switching the left side and right side knock-offs. By > doing so, they will loosen as you drive until the wheel falls off. J > > I am in the process repacking the wheel bearings, checking the > brakes and rotating the tires. It took me two hours to loosen the > two eared knock-offs. One hour and fifteen minutes for the first > one and 15 minutes each for the next three after figuring out a > better process. > > I had not loosened them for 6,000 miles since I completed the > restoration. Perhaps they need to be loosened on a scheduled basis > or there is some other trick some lister might share. > > John > > ?62 BT7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 8, 2017 6:05 PM > *To:* Healey List *Subject:* [Healeys] Wheel Spinners > > On my BJ8 with new MWS 72 spoke WW and hubs I find that the wheels > are over tightening themselves particularly the front. > > Have read the Rudge Whitworth self tightening info. but still not > happy. > > When I fit the wheels I tighten by hand then do a light couple of > taps with my lead mallet. > > After but a few miles I find that I have to really slog the > spinners just to get them to move - the ol? girl shakes all over. > > It really is excessive and fear one day wont be able to get them > to move at all ? particularly on roadside. > > What gives ? > > Anyone else encountered this issue ? > > rg > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 10 11:24:06 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 10:24:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Existential Question on Bearings We've all probably lost a few of ours due to the state of the world, but I'm referring to the important ones; i.e. wheel bearings, hub bearings, gearbox bearings, etc. I'm fixing to clean, inspect and repack my front wheel bearings in the coming days, and I'll likely be faced with a decision. I don't recall exactly when I last checked them, but it probably was 50K miles or (much) more. The 'existential question?' Well, should I replace the bearings on principle--even if mine have given many years and miles of faithful service, and will probably appear pristine--on the presumption that they have a limited lifespan and are getting closer to that limit? Years ago, this would be a 'no-brainer,' as the younguns say: Given the time and effort required to remove brake calipers/drums and pull the dust cover, cotter key and big nut, I would have probably replaced bearings and races, especially if they had 100K miles or more on them (even with the hassle of getting end float correct). Now, I don't think that's a given since the quality of parts is more suspect than ever. Last time I replaced my rear wheel bearings--a no-brainer as one was obviously toast--the new ones from Moss came labeled 'Made in Italy.' That was scary enough--although the Italians are known for some pretty cool engineering and design--but I suspect anything I can buy now will possibly (probably) be labeled 'Made in China.' I'm sure, someday, China will produce quality products--they may even come up with some of their own, instead of buying/stealing IP from the US and Europe--but I don't think that day is here (lest you think I'm just being my normal bigoted self, I once had an airplane partner who was in charge of QA for iPhones being built in China--suffice it to say you wouldn't want to expose small children to his stories--and I happened to be working a contract for Space Systems Loral when they got busted for, uh, 'lending' missile guidance technology to the Chinese*). I don't know for a fact, but I suspect even once-trustworthy name brands like Timken are 'offshoring'--a nicer-sounding word for sending local jobs overseas--some if not all of their production. So, when I remove and clean the bearings, and closely inspect them and their races, do I replace them 'on principle,' or put the old ones back in after thorough cleaning, inspection and repacking? Bob * SSL was using Chinese rockets to launch comm and weather satellites, and the launches failed fairly regularly, so SSL helped them out with guidance and stability technology. Of course, there's no way the Chinese would apply that same technology to make their ICBMs more reliable and accurate; that just wouldn't be nice, would it? Now, it appears Boeing--please say it ain't so--is going to give decades of engineering effort and experience to the Chinese for the 'privilege' of building their planes cheaper there. No way that will come back to haunt them--and Airbus--nope, no way. From RFBegani at speakeasy.net Thu Aug 10 12:46:58 2017 From: RFBegani at speakeasy.net (Robert F. Begani) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 14:46:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 150 Classic Cars Destroyed in fire. http://tinyurl.com/ycpeq3js -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Aug 10 13:31:32 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 21:31:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Existential Question on Bearings References: If the bearings show no wear there is no need to replace them. Wheel bearings, if adjusted and lubricated properly, seldom wear out. Chinese/Indian etc. bearing manufacturers can produce bearings to the highest standards. However the problem is the cheap US, Japanese, European and Chinese brands want bearings at the lowest price possible and buy in cheap Chinese, Indian, Vietnamese etc. products that can be very good or awful because of a lacking quality control. Brands like SKF, FAG, NSK, Timken etc. probably have bearings made in China too but to their own specifications and with their own quality control. These are just as good as those made in any country. SKF possibly produces the best bearings of them all. Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-8-2017 om 19:24 schreef Bob Spidell: > We've all probably lost a few of ours due to the state of the world, > but I'm referring to the important ones; i.e. wheel bearings, hub > bearings, gearbox bearings, etc. I'm fixing to clean, inspect and > repack my front wheel bearings in the coming days, and I'll likely be > faced with a decision. I don't recall exactly when I last checked > them, but it probably was 50K miles or (much) more. The 'existential > question?' Well, should I replace the bearings on principle--even if > mine have given many years and miles of faithful service, and will > probably appear pristine--on the presumption that they have a limited > lifespan and are getting closer to that limit? > > Years ago, this would be a 'no-brainer,' as the younguns say: Given > the time and effort required to remove brake calipers/drums and pull > the dust cover, cotter key and big nut, I would have probably replaced > bearings and races, especially if they had 100K miles or more on them > (even with the hassle of getting end float correct). Now, I don't > think that's a given since the quality of parts is more suspect than > ever. Last time I replaced my rear wheel bearings--a no-brainer as > one was obviously toast--the new ones from Moss came labeled 'Made in > Italy.' That was scary enough--although the Italians are known for > some pretty cool engineering and design--but I suspect anything I can > buy now will possibly (probably) be labeled 'Made in China.' I'm > sure, someday, China will produce quality products--they may even come > up with some of their own, instead of buying/stealing IP from the US > and Europe--but I don't think that day is here (lest you think I'm > just being my normal bigoted self, I once had an airplane partner who > was in charge of QA for iPhones being built in China--suffice it to > say you wouldn't want to expose small children to his stories--and I > happened to be working a contract for Space Systems Loral when they > got busted for, uh, 'lending' missile guidance technology to the > Chinese*). I don't know for a fact, but I suspect even > once-trustworthy name brands like Timken are 'offshoring'--a > nicer-sounding word for sending local jobs overseas--some if not all > of their production. > > So, when I remove and clean the bearings, and closely inspect them and > their races, do I replace them 'on principle,' or put the old ones > back in after thorough cleaning, inspection and repacking? > > Bob > > > * SSL was using Chinese rockets to launch comm and weather satellites, > and the launches failed fairly regularly, so SSL helped them out with > guidance and stability technology. Of course, there's no way the > Chinese would apply that same technology to make their ICBMs more > reliable and accurate; that just wouldn't be nice, would it? > > Now, it appears Boeing--please say it ain't so--is going to give > decades of engineering effort and experience to the Chinese for the > 'privilege' of building their planes cheaper there. No way that will > come back to haunt them--and Airbus--nope, no way. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Aug 10 13:38:28 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 15:38:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners References: <9E0A7DB7170343768310A4CA04457A28@WINDOWST93OFP9> <000001d31198$c38ee760$4aacb620$@sbcglobal.net> <04ed2398-0f40-bc23-aafa-17ed3eb31ea8@comcast.net> I lubricate the knockoff and hub threads with the same grease I use for the wheel bearings and splines. I always tighten the knockoff with the wheel off the ground, but only tighten it to the point that it doesn't appear to move when hit with the hammer (I use a piece of wood to pound on, not directly on the knockoff). The knockoff will tighten itself further as you drive. I tried sealing the spoke heads with silicone once, but the next time I removed the wheel the grease had turned the silicone to jelly. It was very difficult to remove. What works better for me is 3M body sealant, which is impervious to the grease. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 12:32 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Spinners Side note: When you get new wires, apply some silicone RTV--I prefer clear for this application--on the inside of the hubs on the 'heads' (if they were nails) of the spokes. Otherwise, whichever grease you put on the splines and threads of the hubs will ooze out and make a mess. On 8/10/2017 2:14 AM, Derek Job wrote: I agree with Bob about the grease. Don't beat the hell out of them to tighten them, they will tighten themselves. Just give them a few good blows until its obvious they aren't going any further. The wheel should be off the ground otherwise all the force is directed into the spokes and risks damaging them. Try heating the spinners if you can't get them off. Worked for me. Derek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Aug 10 14:14:01 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 20:14:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Used Stub Axles References: <1385899486.34328.1502396041287.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Just got my stub axles for my BN2 magnafluxed.? BOTH are cracked at the bottom.? Does anyone have a set they would like to sell?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Aug 10 16:33:40 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 18:33:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Existential Question on Bearings References: If the bearings show no mechanical or heat (discoloration) or corrosion damage when they are cleaned and inspected and rotate smoothly without any "notchy" feel, then I would re-lubricate and re-use them. I think most of the failures that people have with bearings on the road are because the bearings have probably been in service for who know how many years without any re-lubrication or attention. I've heard of such failures welding the races to the spindle and preventing the wheel from being removed. So, I remove and inspect my bearings every few years -- usually before some long trip. The front wheel bearings (SKF) currently installed in my car were new in May 02. They have 65K miles on them but have been re-lubricated twice since installation. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 1:24 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Existential Question on Bearings We've all probably lost a few of ours due to the state of the world, but I'm referring to the important ones; i.e. wheel bearings, hub bearings, gearbox bearings, etc. I'm fixing to clean, inspect and repack my front wheel bearings in the coming days, and I'll likely be faced with a decision. I don't recall exactly when I last checked them, but it probably was 50K miles or (much) more. The 'existential question?' Well, should I replace the bearings on principle--even if mine have given many years and miles of faithful service, and will probably appear pristine--on the presumption that they have a limited lifespan and are getting closer to that limit? From michael.oritt at gmail.com Thu Aug 10 19:22:06 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 21:22:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gear shift lever bending (No Healey Content) The gear shift lever on one of my race cars broke and though I have had it repaired--as in sleeved/welded up--I do not have confidence in its future reliability. The transmission is a UK Ford unit, commonly used in Lotuses and Cortinas, but because of the compactness of the car's cockpit, etc. the stick must be modified from its original configuration by putting about a 30 degree angle in the straight section in order to clear the dash panel. I have sourced a replacement which is described as "billet" and my question is whether heating and bending the gear lever in order to introduce the necessary angle would weaken it significantly. Opinions and tips solicited and welcome. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Thu Aug 10 19:40:10 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2017 01:40:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Gear shift lever bending (No Healey Content) References: Michael I would hazard a guess that the lever is made from some sort of alloy steel and that it will require heat treatment to acquire its maximum strength. Local heating to produce a bend, or even welding on it would significantly weaken such a lever. The correct practice would be to do whatever is required to produce the correct shape then have the whole lever heat treated. Of course determining what type of steel it is made from will be necessary before the correct heat treatment proceedure can be determined. The manufacturers may be prepared to tell you what type of steel it is made from. Michael S ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael Oritt Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 9:22:06 PM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Gear shift lever bending (No Healey Content) The gear shift lever on one of my race cars broke and though I have had it repaired--as in sleeved/welded up--I do not have confidence in its future reliability. The transmission is a UK Ford unit, commonly used in Lotuses and Cortinas, but because of the compactness of the car's cockpit, etc. the stick must be modified from its original configuration by putting about a 30 degree angle in the straight section in order to clear the dash panel. I have sourced a replacement which is described as "billet" and my question is whether heating and bending the gear lever in order to introduce the necessary angle would weaken it significantly. Opinions and tips solicited and welcome. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Thu Aug 10 19:45:53 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 21:45:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Used Stub Axles References: <1385899486.34328.1502396041287.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1385899486.34328.1502396041287@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, Denis Welch has uprated ones if you can't find good used: https://www.bighealey.co.uk/Austin-Healey/healey-suspension/front-suspension Kind of spendy, though. Regards, Rick On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 4:14 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Just got my stub axles for my BN2 magnafluxed. BOTH are cracked at the > bottom. Does anyone have a set they would like to sell? > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Aug 10 20:49:56 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 19:49:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?wheels?= having listened to a knowledgeable british car owner tell me to just lightly tap on the knockoff and the wheel would tighten up i did so. wheel came off and rolled off into a swamp in florida at 3am. was not fun. since then i ignore anyone who tells me anything other than bang them on. From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Aug 10 21:48:23 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2017 23:48:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Existential Question on Bearings References: Bob, I just finished doing exactly that on my BT7. I last replaced them in the late '70s, as you say, out of principle as I don't ever recall an issue with them (they have been re-packed a few times since then!). I cleaned them thoroughly and carefully inspected them, including the outer races in the hubs. I also turned them in my hand (don't spin them fast when dry - it is not good for them), applying some pressure so the rollers ran on the inner race to see if I could detect any rough spots. They seemed fine so after setting up the end-float I packed them full of grease and put 'em back in. I meticulously follow the procedure in the manual: shimming between the bearings to get zero end-float. I do this set up before packing with grease as to really feel any play in the bearings. I do just spray them with WD 40 so there is some lubricant on them when they are turned as part of the set-up, but then I wash that off before packing with grease. Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: August-10-17 1:24 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Existential Question on Bearings We've all probably lost a few of ours due to the state of the world, but I'm referring to the important ones; i.e. wheel bearings, hub bearings, gearbox bearings, etc. I'm fixing to clean, inspect and repack my front wheel bearings in the coming days, and I'll likely be faced with a decision. I don't recall exactly when I last checked them, but it probably was 50K miles or (much) more. The 'existential question?' Well, should I replace the bearings on principle--even if mine have given many years and miles of faithful service, and will probably appear pristine--on the presumption that they have a limited lifespan and are getting closer to that limit? Years ago, this would be a 'no-brainer,' as the younguns say: Given the time and effort required to remove brake calipers/drums and pull the dust cover, cotter key and big nut, I would have probably replaced bearings and races, especially if they had 100K miles or more on them (even with the hassle of getting end float correct). Now, I don't think that's a given since the quality of parts is more suspect than ever. Last time I replaced my rear wheel bearings--a no-brainer as one was obviously toast--the new ones from Moss came labeled 'Made in Italy.' That was scary enough--although the Italians are known for some pretty cool engineering and design--but I suspect anything I can buy now will possibly (probably) be labeled 'Made in China.' I'm sure, someday, China will produce quality products--they may even come up with some of their own, instead of buying/stealing IP from the US and Europe--but I don't think that day is here (lest you think I'm just being my normal bigoted self, I once had an airplane partner who was in charge of QA for iPhones being built in China--suffice it to say you wouldn't want to expose small children to his stories--and I happened to be working a contract for Space Systems Loral when they got busted for, uh, 'lending' missile guidance technology to the Chinese*). I don't know for a fact, but I suspect even once-trustworthy name brands like Timken are 'offshoring'--a nicer-sounding word for sending local jobs overseas--some if not all of their production. So, when I remove and clean the bearings, and closely inspect them and their races, do I replace them 'on principle,' or put the old ones back in after thorough cleaning, inspection and repacking? Bob * SSL was using Chinese rockets to launch comm and weather satellites, and the launches failed fairly regularly, so SSL helped them out with guidance and stability technology. Of course, there's no way the Chinese would apply that same technology to make their ICBMs more reliable and accurate; that just wouldn't be nice, would it? Now, it appears Boeing--please say it ain't so--is going to give decades of engineering effort and experience to the Chinese for the 'privilege' of building their planes cheaper there. No way that will come back to haunt them--and Airbus--nope, no way. _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 11 01:07:21 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2017 00:07:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Existential Question on Bearings References: Bob, Repack every 6000 miles per the maintenance schedule until you feel they should be replaced. BTW, you don't want one to fail, it happened to me in the 70's; in the middle of nowhere. You can buy Timken bearings in San Jose. Front wheel bearings, races and grease nipples, most likely the long ones for the U-joints, cost me $145 in 2010. Don't know where they are made but Applied Industrial Technologies might have them in stock, in San Jose, or should be able to have them locally available in one or two days from the order date. Also, they should be able to tell you where they are made. Applied is located on Brokaw Road near Fry's. For those who don't know, Fry's was a grocery store that metamorphosed into an electronics retailer decades ago. https://www.applied.com/ You can go to there and actually talk with people who are very helpful. I bought wheel bearings for my BT7 there and the bearing number and design was slightly different than the OEM spec. I checked all of that out with the Applied sales person. However, the only difference was the radius on the bore at one of the faces. I did not think it made a difference because of the way the bearings are captured on the axel. No problems at 6000 miles but I will report back because I am in the process of repacking per scheduled maintenance. Going to check my shim stock right now. John, the mechanic '62 BT7 From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Fri Aug 11 03:07:06 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2017 19:07:06 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Existential Question on Bearings References: ...something else to be careful of with front wheel bearings on BN1s which have ball rather than roller bearings: They are a special type of ball bearing - angular thrust bearings - which are able to deal with the forces induced by cornering. They have a bigger cage lip on one side and are marked "thrust" on one face - these faces have to go towards the cone shaped spacer between the bearings. At least one supplier here in Oz who should know better sells regular ball bearings as wheel bearings (the ones I got were in packages labelled "Triumph TR6 overdrive annulus" Norman Nock wrote one of his tech tips on this subject. Peter Linn Brisbane -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, August 11, 2017 3:24 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Existential Question on Bearings We've all probably lost a few of ours due to the state of the world, but I'm referring to the important ones; i.e. wheel bearings, hub bearings, gearbox bearings, etc. I'm fixing to clean, inspect and repack my front wheel bearings in the coming days, and I'll likely be faced with a decision. I don't recall exactly when I last checked them, but it probably was 50K miles or (much) more. The 'existential question?' Well, should I replace the bearings on principle--even if mine have given many years and miles of faithful service, and will probably appear pristine--on the presumption that they have a limited lifespan and are getting closer to that limit? Years ago, this would be a 'no-brainer,' as the younguns say: Given the time and effort required to remove brake calipers/drums and pull the dust cover, cotter key and big nut, I would have probably replaced bearings and races, especially if they had 100K miles or more on them (even with the hassle of getting end float correct). Now, I don't think that's a given since the quality of parts is more suspect than ever. Last time I replaced my rear wheel bearings--a no-brainer as one was obviously toast--the new ones from Moss came labeled 'Made in Italy.' That was scary enough--although the Italians are known for some pretty cool engineering and design--but I suspect anything I can buy now will possibly (probably) be labeled 'Made in China.' I'm sure, someday, China will produce quality products--they may even come up with some of their own, instead of buying/stealing IP from the US and Europe--but I don't think that day is here (lest you think I'm just being my normal bigoted self, I once had an airplane partner who was in charge of QA for iPhones being built in China--suffice it to say you wouldn't want to expose small children to his stories--and I happened to be working a contract for Space Systems Loral when they got busted for, uh, 'lending' missile guidance technology to the Chinese*). I don't know for a fact, but I suspect even once-trustworthy name brands like Timken are 'offshoring'--a nicer-sounding word for sending local jobs overseas--some if not all of their production. So, when I remove and clean the bearings, and closely inspect them and their races, do I replace them 'on principle,' or put the old ones back in after thorough cleaning, inspection and repacking? Bob _____ From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Aug 11 05:26:42 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2017 21:26:42 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Vision Mirror Extension Greetings I am helping a new owner of a BJ8 to get his car in good going condition. Firstly I'm after an extension to the rear vision mirror. I've seen what's on offer at Moss Motors at http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=60646 but I recall seeing an extension made from varnished laminated wood or timber. Does someone recall the timber extension and where it's available? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 11 06:09:59 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2017 14:09:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Vision Mirror Extension References: <008801d31294$b7147f70$253d7e50$@tpg.com.au> These look terrible, especially the one with the logo. They are fairly expensive to. It should not be to difficult to make one yourself from two or three layers of birch multiplex/plywood and then veneering it or even use foil instead of veneer. You can then also fit a proper period SMITHS clock, ca.50mm across with a matching dial in black or silver/champagne. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-8-2017 om 13:26 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn: > > Greetings > > I am helping a new owner of a BJ8 to get his car in good going condition. > > Firstly I?m after an extension to the rear vision mirror. I?ve seen > what?s on offer at Moss Motors at > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=60646 > but I recall seeing an extension made from varnished laminated wood or > timber. > > Does someone recall the timber extension and where it?s available? > > Many thanks > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Aug 11 10:05:15 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2017 09:05:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?wheel_bearings?= i have about 300 thousand miles or so on my bj8 and have never replaced the wheel bearings, front or rear. i check them whenever i have the hub off and clean and regrease them. so far, so good. From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Fri Aug 11 10:34:16 2017 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2017 09:34:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Vision Mirror Extension References: <008801d31294$b7147f70$253d7e50$@tpg.com.au> Patrick: I am sure it was not mine that you saw but see the attached pictures. I had a scrap piece of hardwood which I cut and sanded to match the shape of the base of the mirror. I stained it as close to the dash board wood finish as I could. As an aside, I also made the gear shift knob which has the overdrive switch inserted. No comments are needed about the loose wires hanging below the dash. That was work in progress. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 +92 = 215,718 miles ----- Original Message ----- From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, August 11, 2017 4:26 AM Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Vision Mirror Extension Greetings I am helping a new owner of a BJ8 to get his car in good going condition. Firstly I'm after an extension to the rear vision mirror. I've seen what's on offer at Moss Motors at http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=60646 but I recall seeing an extension made from varnished laminated wood or timber. Does someone recall the timber extension and where it's available? Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: AH Modifications.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2525996 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: AH Modifications (2).JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2367450 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: AH Modifications (3).JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2517086 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.salter at gmail.com Fri Aug 11 11:35:54 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2017 17:35:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] wheel bearings References: <20170811160515.17782.qmail@server278.com> Compared to the roller and ball bearings in gas turbine engines automotive wheel bearings have a very easy life. The gas turbine bearings are cleaned and carefully inspected on reconditioning, after many thousands of hours of operation, and most often returned to service. Unless contamination, poor installation or adjustment or moisture has damaged a wheel bearing it should nevef need replacing. Michael S ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeymanjim Sent: Friday, August 11, 2017 12:05:15 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] wheel bearings i have about 300 thousand miles or so on my bj8 and have never replaced the wheel bearings, front or rear. i check them whenever i have the hub off and clean and regrease them. so far, so good. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Fri Aug 11 12:50:54 2017 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2017 12:50:54 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] rocker cover stud length I have noticed some of the aftermarket alloy valve covers are thicker and sit higher than what was on my BN6. What came with the car looks like an original cover that was a chromed at least 30 to 40 years ago and has chromed cap nuts. A trial fit of a borrowed alloy valve cover revealed that either the studs or the cap nuts are too short. Longer cap nuts would be easier. The question is do I need longer rocker cover studs or are there longer cap nuts available? Thanks Ross -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Aug 11 17:47:38 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2017 15:47:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Wheel_Bearings?= IMO rear bearings are spinning because the Moss gasket is too thick for the bearing to be clamped properly. I measured a new gasket at .014"; used one .010" The bearing spacer can only clamp the bearing properly if the gasket is <=.004" - like a piece of copier paper. Tom of Tom's Toys told me he had replaced 80 sets of rear spun bearings. I think the gaskets are causing these bearing failures. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 Maker of most complete big healey rear disc kit From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 12 15:45:13 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2017 14:45:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet versus a 45 once polyurethane dead blow hammer for removing knockoffs? John Spaur San Jose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Aug 12 16:55:09 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2017 15:55:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket References: <000001d313b4$4847c360$d8d74a20$@sbcglobal.net> Good way to rearrange your face. I'd be careful. Mike BJ8 On 8/12/2017 2:45 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet versus a 45 once > polyurethane dead blow hammer for removing knockoffs? > > John Spaur > > San Jose > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Aug 12 16:56:06 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2017 15:56:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket References: <000001d313b4$4847c360$d8d74a20$@sbcglobal.net> "What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet ..." I think the hammer will bounce off the knockoff and smite thee in the face. I haven't tried a dead blow, but in a pinch I used a softwood block and a small sledgehammer to tighten a knockoff, and it flattened and marred the ear of the knockoff, and I think a dead blow might do the same. I'd stick with lead hammers (copper may be OK, but I haven't used one and I believe copper is a bit harder than lead). Bob On 8/12/2017 2:45 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet versus a 45 once > polyurethane dead blow hammer for removing knockoffs? > > John Spaur > > San Jose > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Aug 12 17:45:20 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 09:45:20 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket References: <000001d313b4$4847c360$d8d74a20$@sbcglobal.net> Why don't you go and buy an original concours correct Thor hammer? Thor are now remaking the original copper - copper Hammers - the "classic" range - with the correct head markings. The originals in Healeys were size ones, and either have the patent number or not depending on year, as per the 2017 Concours guidelines. But I use a heavier size two for spinner whacking, and have an unused size 1 for display purposes. See https://www.thorhammer.com/hammers/classic.html Best Chris > On 13 Aug 2017, at 7:45 am, John Spaur wrote: > > What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet versus a 45 once polyurethane dead blow hammer for removing knockoffs? > > John Spaur > San Jose > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sat Aug 12 18:31:35 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2017 20:31:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket It may also strike the wing imparting depressions in it. (But of course that could happen with any out of control mass on the end of a stick.) -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Sat, Aug 12, 2017 7:49 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket "What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet ..." I think the hammer will bounce off the knockoff and smite thee in the face. I haven't tried a dead blow, but in a pinch I used a softwood block and a small sledgehammer to tighten a knockoff, and it flattened and marred the ear of the knockoff, and I think a dead blow might do the same. I'd stick with lead hammers (copper may be OK, but I haven't used one and I believe copper is a bit harder than lead). Bob On 8/12/2017 2:45 PM, John Spaur wrote: What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet versus a 45 once polyurethane dead blow hammer for removing knockoffs? John Spaur San Jose _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Aug 12 19:12:42 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2017 21:12:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket References: <000001d313b4$4847c360$d8d74a20$@sbcglobal.net> <3e6233c6-567b-fbd6-c5a5-7291256934b0@comcast.net> I go for the six pounder in case the KO needs some additional persuading. They'll recast it once it gets too bunged up: http://americanhammer.com/lead-hammer/ On Sat, Aug 12, 2017 at 6:56 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > "What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet ..." > > I think the hammer will bounce off the knockoff and smite thee in the > face. I haven't tried a dead blow, but in a pinch I used a softwood block > and a small sledgehammer to tighten a knockoff, and it flattened and marred > the ear of the knockoff, and I think a dead blow might do the same. > > I'd stick with lead hammers (copper may be OK, but I haven't used one and > I believe copper is a bit harder than lead). > > Bob > > On 8/12/2017 2:45 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet versus a 45 once > polyurethane dead blow hammer for removing knockoffs? > > > > John Spaur > > San Jose > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Sat Aug 12 19:50:54 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2017 21:50:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket References: <000001d313b4$4847c360$d8d74a20$@sbcglobal.net> <040E6696-C590-48C0-B23C-C91902D4456C@gmail.com> I used a rubber mallet a couple of times and it left rubber deposits on the knockoff. I switched to a 3 lb dead blow hammer with a plastic face. No marking and no bounce back. Works very well. I am very pleased with it. Fred 66 BJ 8 63 BJ 7 deceased On Aug 12, 2017 8:49 PM, "Chris Dimmock" wrote: > Why don't you go and buy an original concours correct Thor hammer? > Thor are now remaking the original copper - copper Hammers - the "classic" > range - with the correct head markings. > The originals in Healeys were size ones, and either have the patent number > or not depending on year, as per the 2017 Concours guidelines. But I use a > heavier size two for spinner whacking, and have an unused size 1 for > display purposes. > See https://www.thorhammer.com/hammers/classic.html > > Best > Chris > > On 13 Aug 2017, at 7:45 am, John Spaur wrote: > > What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet versus a 45 once > polyurethane dead blow hammer for removing knockoffs? > > > > John Spaur > > San Jose > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Sat Aug 12 20:13:49 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2017 20:13:49 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket References: <000001d313b4$4847c360$d8d74a20$@sbcglobal.net> I've used a 3 lb dead blow on knockoffs on our Jag for 15 years. I had bought an original Thor copper/leather hammer but could not bring myself to mar the beautiful new hammer. So bought the deadblow and haven't looked back. Inexpensive when on sale, available locally, and kinder to the knockoffs - I don't think it is as good as lead or copper, but does the trick for me. Just bought another for our new (to us) Healey. Stay away from rubber mallets. Not enough mass/momentum to affect a good blow on the spinner. Bob England > On Aug 12, 2017, at 3:45 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet versus a 45 once polyurethane dead blow hammer for removing knockoffs? > > John Spaur > San Jose > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl at accesscomm.ca > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 55healey at comcast.net Sat Aug 12 23:06:50 2017 From: 55healey at comcast.net (ROBERT A WESTCOTT) Date: Sat, 12 Aug 2017 22:06:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket References: <000001d313b4$4847c360$d8d74a20$@sbcglobal.net> <040E6696-C590-48C0-B23C-C91902D4456C@gmail.com> I agree Fred, The 3 pound dead blow hammer at HF is perfect. I have been using it for many years. It does not damage the knock off. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-lb-neon-orange-dead-blow-hammer-41799.html I save my original Thor hammer for shows. Rob > On Aug 12, 2017, at 6:50 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > > I used a rubber mallet a couple of times and it left rubber deposits on the knockoff. > I switched to a 3 lb dead blow hammer with a plastic face. No marking and no bounce back. Works very well. I am very pleased with it. > > Fred > 66 BJ 8 > 63 BJ 7 deceased > > > On Aug 12, 2017 8:49 PM, "Chris Dimmock" wrote: > Why don't you go and buy an original concours correct Thor hammer? > Thor are now remaking the original copper - copper Hammers - the "classic" range - with the correct head markings. > The originals in Healeys were size ones, and either have the patent number or not depending on year, as per the 2017 Concours guidelines. But I use a heavier size two for spinner whacking, and have an unused size 1 for display purposes. > See https://www.thorhammer.com/hammers/classic.html > > Best > Chris From dkgraber85 at yahoo.com Sun Aug 13 07:17:25 2017 From: dkgraber85 at yahoo.com (Darin Graber) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 07:17:25 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket References: <000001d313b4$4847c360$d8d74a20$@sbcglobal.net> <040E6696-C590-48C0-B23C-C91902D4456C@gmail.com> <77F6B195-37BE-4CAF-A104-2E896DD9FBD1@comcast.net> I'm surprised people are still hitting things with hammers that close to wings and spokes. I've always used the Moss wrench and fabbed an extension for stubborn KO's and it has always worked. The wrench stows invisible behind the spare. What am I missing other than the vintage "feel" and process? Sent from my iPhone 6+ > On Aug 12, 2017, at 11:06 PM, ROBERT A WESTCOTT <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: > > I agree Fred, > > The 3 pound dead blow hammer at HF is perfect. I have been using it for many years. It does not damage the knock off. > > https://www.harborfreight.com/3-lb-neon-orange-dead-blow-hammer-41799.html > > I save my original Thor hammer for shows. > > Rob > >> On Aug 12, 2017, at 6:50 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: >> >> I used a rubber mallet a couple of times and it left rubber deposits on the knockoff. >> I switched to a 3 lb dead blow hammer with a plastic face. No marking and no bounce back. Works very well. I am very pleased with it. >> >> Fred >> 66 BJ 8 >> 63 BJ 7 deceased >> >> >> On Aug 12, 2017 8:49 PM, "Chris Dimmock" wrote: >> Why don't you go and buy an original concours correct Thor hammer? >> Thor are now remaking the original copper - copper Hammers - the "classic" range - with the correct head markings. >> The originals in Healeys were size ones, and either have the patent number or not depending on year, as per the 2017 Concours guidelines. But I use a heavier size two for spinner whacking, and have an unused size 1 for display purposes. >> See https://www.thorhammer.com/hammers/classic.html >> >> Best >> Chris > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dkgraber85 at yahoo.com > From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 13 07:45:41 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock British Car Specialists) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 06:45:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket References: <000001d313b4$4847c360$d8d74a20$@sbcglobal.net> We have been using a dead blow shot hammer for 20 plus years and never damaged a knock off. We go thru one about every 5 years or so. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 Enjoy www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs . . Sent from my iPad > On Aug 12, 2017, at 2:45 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet versus a 45 once polyurethane dead blow hammer for removing knockoffs? > > John Spaur > San Jose > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Aug 13 08:50:03 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 10:50:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket References: <000001d313b4$4847c360$d8d74a20$@sbcglobal.net> I've been using a lead hammer (in case I miss), but putting a piece of scrap lumber (oak is better than pine for durability) against the knockoff ear and hitting that. I've been using the same (still undamaged) lead hammer for about 20 years, but I've gone through some wood -- although I'm still on the piece of oak after 7 years. My 25-year old knockoffs are still pristine and I've never had one loosen in service. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock British Car Specialists Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 9:46 AM To: John Spaur Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket We have been using a dead blow shot hammer for 20 plus years and never damaged a knock off. We go thru one about every 5 years or so. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick at ewilkins.com Sun Aug 13 11:08:33 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 10:08:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wheels References: <20170811024956.5672.qmail@server278.com> I had a Healey that would do that because the hubs were on the wrong side of the car. > On Aug 10, 2017, at 7:49 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > > having listened to a knowledgeable british car owner tell me to just lightly tap on the knockoff and the wheel would tighten > up i did so. wheel came off and rolled off into a swamp in florida at 3am. was not fun. since then i ignore anyone who tells > me anything other than bang them on. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > > From wkollar at nycap.rr.com Sun Aug 13 11:54:51 2017 From: wkollar at nycap.rr.com (Bill) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 13:54:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wheels References: <20170811024956.5672.qmail@server278.com> When I was 16 and driving around all fat dumb and happy in my very used 100-4, my left rear came off and ended up a 1/4 mile into a corn field. I didn't even know there was right and wrong side, but using the largest ball-peen hammer in the box solved the loosening up problem once and for all. Of course it didn?t do the knock-offs any good either. Molon Labe _bill -----Original Message----- From: Rick Wilkins Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 1:08 PM To: healeymanjim Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] wheels I had a Healey that would do that because the hubs were on the wrong side of the car. > On Aug 10, 2017, at 7:49 PM, healeymanjim > wrote: > > having listened to a knowledgeable british car owner tell me to just > lightly tap on the knockoff and the wheel would tighten > up i did so. wheel came off and rolled off into a swamp in florida at > 3am. was not fun. since then i ignore anyone who tells > me anything other than bang them on. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wkollar at nycap.rr.com From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Aug 13 12:33:48 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 14:33:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Knock offs Listers Maybe I missed it but for two ear knock offs why not use the steel knock off wrench that has been available for years. If you lean on the 20 something inch long lever, just say 100 pounds, you will apply a significant torque to the knock off. Wacking the ear of the knock off with a 2 pound hammer, lever length 4 inches, should be significantly less toque.? Professor Takahashi would be appalled that I could not summon up the correct equations to produce the actual torques applied but, hey, I?m old?.. Aloha Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 David wrote: ??????????????? We have been using a dead blow shot hammer for 20 plus years and never damaged a knock off. ?We go thru one about every 5 years or so.? John wrote: What do people think about a 32 once rubber mallet versus a 45 once polyurethane dead blow hammer for removing knockoffs? ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmags at cox.net Sun Aug 13 12:57:04 2017 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 13:57:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] knock off hammer Rubber mallet? Not a chance. Get a purpose made knockoff hammer. They are readily available and not expensive. There is no substitute for the right tool. Its really not a question of getting the knockoffs off; more important to get them ON tight enough. If one gets loose and works its way off, youll lose a wheel, likely have an accident, wreck the car or worse. All for a $30 knock off hammer. Sent from my iPad From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 13 15:06:40 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 14:06:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] knock off hammer References: Properly installed knockoffs tighten when the car is driven forward. It not money, dead blow hammers cost around $30 too. I have a knockoff hammer but I am trying to find one that will actually work to loosen the knockoff after the car has been driven for 6000 miles or so. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Magnusson Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 11:57 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] knock off hammer Rubber mallet? Not a chance. Get a purpose made knockoff hammer. They are readily available and not expensive. There is no substitute for the right tool. Its really not a question of getting the knockoffs off; more important to get them ON tight enough. If one gets loose and works its way off, youll lose a wheel, likely have an accident, wreck the car or worse. All for a $30 knock off hammer. Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Aug 13 15:13:40 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 17:13:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Knock off hammer - aftermarket Issue with wrench marking chrome -solution. Terry cloth shop towel works perfectly. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1766.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 88663 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1767.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 94432 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun Aug 13 15:23:29 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 15:23:29 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it seems to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet and pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb pistons was sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for the throttle shaft and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together and still having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original to car). Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last weekend in the hopes it would help). New rotor. Coil : Lucas Sportcoil Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends ago) Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was a dismal failure!). I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim screws and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle adjusting screw completely off of the cam lobe. The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting on the cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim screws backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running rich. I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I read them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman Nock's wonderful collection of papers. Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just screwing up somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not too happy with what I have done so far. Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank the carbs again). Thanks in advance. Bob England From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Aug 13 17:20:05 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 17:20:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: > I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it seems > to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. > > I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet and > pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb pistons was > sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for the throttle shaft > and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together and still > having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. > > Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII > Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original to > car). > Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). > Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last weekend > in the hopes it would help). New rotor. > Coil : Lucas Sportcoil > Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends ago) > Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was a dismal > failure!). > > I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim screws > and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle adjusting screw > completely off of the cam lobe. > > The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting on the > cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim screws > backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running rich. > > I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I read > them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman Nock's wonderful > collection of papers. > > Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just screwing up > somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not too happy > with what I have done so far. > > Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank the > carbs again). > > Thanks in advance. > > Bob England > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Sun Aug 13 17:22:44 2017 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Lawrence Swift) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 19:22:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] knock off hammer References: <000501d31478$10054c10$300fe430$@sbcglobal.net> Take the wheels off every 1000 miles > On Aug 13, 2017, at 5:06 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > Properly installed knockoffs tighten when the car is driven forward. It not > money, dead blow hammers cost around $30 too. I have a knockoff hammer but I > am trying to find one that will actually work to loosen the knockoff after > the car has been driven for 6000 miles or so. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank > Magnusson > Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 11:57 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] knock off hammer > > Rubber mallet? Not a chance. Get a purpose made knockoff hammer. They are > readily available and not expensive. There is no substitute for the right > tool. > > Its really not a question of getting the knockoffs off; more important to > get them ON tight enough. If one gets loose and works its way off, youll > lose a wheel, likely have an accident, wreck the car or worse. All for a > $30 knock off hammer. > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 13 18:31:26 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 17:31:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> How do you know you're running rich; is the car blowing black smoke, even when warmed-up with the choke off? Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? Sounds to me like your floats are set too high; take the dashpots off and see where the top of the jets are relative to the jet bridge, and where the fuel level is inside the jet with the pump on (don't leave the key in the 'on' position for long when the engine isn't running lest you fry your Pertronix). Did you inspect the jet diaphragms when you had the carbs apart? If the car sat for a long time they could have cracked; if so you'll never get the mixture set right. FWIW, I have a BJ8 with DWR-1 cam and Pertronix and the idle--at 750 give-or-take--is a bit lopey but solid (I gap my plugs at 0.028"). There were some bad Sports Coils going around, and I'd stick to Champion or NGK plugs. Timing for a BJ8 is set at 15deg BTDC at 600RPM with vacuum advance pipe disconnected and port on carb plugged (doesn't make much difference). Bob On 8/13/2017 4:20 PM, David Porter wrote: > what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 > degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP > > > > On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it >> seems >> to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >> >> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet and >> pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb pistons >> was >> sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for the >> throttle shaft >> and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together >> and still >> having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. >> >> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original to >> car). >> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last >> weekend >> in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends ago) >> Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was a >> dismal >> failure!). >> >> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim >> screws >> and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle adjusting screw >> completely off of the cam lobe. >> >> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting >> on the >> cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim >> screws >> backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running >> rich. >> >> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I >> read >> them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman Nock's >> wonderful >> collection of papers. >> >> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just >> screwing up >> somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not >> too happy >> with what I have done so far. >> >> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank the >> carbs again). >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> Bob England >> >> >> > From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Aug 13 18:41:11 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 20:41:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> Dave, are you sure about those numbers? I believe the manual specifies 10 BTDC static and 15 BTDC @ 600 RPM. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Porter Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 7:20 PM To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: > I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it seems > to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. > > I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet and > pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb pistons was > sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for the throttle shaft > and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together and still > having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. > > Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII > Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original to > car). > Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). > Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last weekend > in the hopes it would help). New rotor. > Coil : Lucas Sportcoil > Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends ago) > Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was a dismal > failure!). > > I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim screws > and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle adjusting screw > completely off of the cam lobe. > > The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting on the > cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim screws > backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running rich. > > I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I read > them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman Nock's wonderful > collection of papers. > > Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just screwing up > somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not too happy > with what I have done so far. > > Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank the > carbs again). > > Thanks in advance. > > Bob England > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 13 18:51:51 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 17:51:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] knock off hammer References: <000501d31478$10054c10$300fe430$@sbcglobal.net> <02AD2DC1-D785-480D-AC76-43977B8FF4FC@gmail.com> FWIW, I pull the wheels annually, at between 5-6K miles and have never had an issue in 32 years. On 8/13/2017 4:22 PM, Lawrence Swift wrote: > Take the wheels off every 1000 miles > >> On Aug 13, 2017, at 5:06 PM, John Spaur wrote: >> >> Properly installed knockoffs tighten when the car is driven forward. It not >> money, dead blow hammers cost around $30 too. I have a knockoff hammer but I >> am trying to find one that will actually work to loosen the knockoff after >> the car has been driven for 6000 miles or so. >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank >> Magnusson >> Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 11:57 AM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] knock off hammer >> >> Rubber mallet? Not a chance. Get a purpose made knockoff hammer. They are >> readily available and not expensive. There is no substitute for the right >> tool. >> >> Its really not a question of getting the knockoffs off; more important to >> get them ON tight enough. If one gets loose and works its way off, youll >> lose a wheel, likely have an accident, wreck the car or worse. All for a >> $30 knock off hammer. >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> >> From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun Aug 13 18:53:27 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 18:53:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> David Compression was good (actually really good!). I think I tried static timing at 5 degrees if I remember correctly. Dismal failure in my first try at static timing. Dynamic at 15 degrees at a bit above 750 with a strobe worked much better. I think these are the numbers I used ... not at home at the moment so I'll double check later. Bob England > On Aug 13, 2017, at 5:20 PM, David Porter wrote: > > what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP > > > >> On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it seems >> to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >> >> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet and >> pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb pistons was >> sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for the throttle shaft >> and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together and still >> having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. >> >> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original to >> car). >> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last weekend >> in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends ago) >> Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was a dismal >> failure!). >> >> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim screws >> and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle adjusting screw >> completely off of the cam lobe. >> >> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting on the >> cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim screws >> backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running rich. >> >> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I read >> them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman Nock's wonderful >> collection of papers. >> >> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just screwing up >> somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not too happy >> with what I have done so far. >> >> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank the >> carbs again). >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> Bob England >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> >> >> > > -- > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Aug 13 19:05:59 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 21:05:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> Bob, When you had the carbs apart, did you confirm that the needles were correct? The needle part number is normally stamped on the base of the needle. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/13/2017 05:23 PM, Bob England wrote: > I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it seems > to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. > > I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet and > pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb pistons was > sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for the throttle shaft > and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together and still > having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. > > Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII > Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original to > car). > Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). > Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last weekend > in the hopes it would help). New rotor. > Coil : Lucas Sportcoil > Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends ago) > Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was a dismal > failure!). > > I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim screws > and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle adjusting screw > completely off of the cam lobe. > > The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting on the > cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim screws > backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running rich. > > I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I read > them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman Nock's wonderful > collection of papers. > > Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just screwing up > somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not too happy > with what I have done so far. > > Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank the > carbs again). > > Thanks in advance. > > Bob England > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun Aug 13 19:37:32 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 19:37:32 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <436CFD8E-F6FA-4F41-A88A-9065BD187462@accesscomm.ca> David Forgot to add the chokes were disconnected ... Bob England > On Aug 13, 2017, at 6:53 PM, Engl wrote: > > David > > Compression was good (actually really good!). > > I think I tried static timing at 5 degrees if I remember correctly. Dismal failure in my first try at static timing. Dynamic at 15 degrees at a bit above 750 with a strobe worked much better. > > I think these are the numbers I used ... not at home at the moment so I'll double check later. > > Bob England > >> On Aug 13, 2017, at 5:20 PM, David Porter wrote: >> >> what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP >> >> >> >>> On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >>> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it seems >>> to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >>> >>> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet and >>> pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb pistons was >>> sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for the throttle shaft >>> and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together and still >>> having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. >>> >>> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >>> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original to >>> car). >>> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >>> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last weekend >>> in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >>> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >>> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends ago) >>> Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was a dismal >>> failure!). >>> >>> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim screws >>> and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle adjusting screw >>> completely off of the cam lobe. >>> >>> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting on the >>> cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim screws >>> backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running rich. >>> >>> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I read >>> them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman Nock's wonderful >>> collection of papers. >>> >>> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just screwing up >>> somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not too happy >>> with what I have done so far. >>> >>> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank the >>> carbs again). >>> >>> Thanks in advance. >>> >>> Bob England >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> -- >> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ > From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun Aug 13 21:39:43 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 21:39:43 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <6ef3e9db-2677-75b1-d2e0-2d80340e9915@earthlink.net> Bob I did not confirm the needles, but should be able to tomorrow night. Thanks. Bob England > On Aug 13, 2017, at 7:05 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > Bob, > > When you had the carbs apart, did you confirm that the needles were correct? The needle part number is normally stamped on the base of the needle. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >> On 08/13/2017 05:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it seems >> to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet and >> pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb pistons was >> sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for the throttle shaft >> and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together and still >> having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. >> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original to >> car). >> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last weekend >> in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends ago) >> Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was a dismal >> failure!). >> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim screws >> and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle adjusting screw >> completely off of the cam lobe. >> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting on the >> cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim screws >> backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running rich. >> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I read >> them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman Nock's wonderful >> collection of papers. >> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just screwing up >> somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not too happy >> with what I have done so far. >> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank the >> carbs again). >> Thanks in advance. >> Bob England >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun Aug 13 22:06:01 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 22:06:01 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <436CFD8E-F6FA-4F41-A88A-9065BD187462@accesscomm.ca> David Back at home so had a chance to check my notes. Compression was 150/155/153/159/164/154 which I thought was quite good. Static timing attempt was 10 degrees but that did not turn out well. Dynamic timing was spot on 15 degrees, but I couldn't get a good idle at 600 RPM (per the book) so I think I set it at 800 RPM. Vacuum advance disconnected. BobE -----Original Message----- From: Engl [mailto:engl at accesscomm.ca] Sent: August 13, 2017 6:53 PM To: David Porter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII David Compression was good (actually really good!). I think I tried static timing at 5 degrees if I remember correctly. Dismal failure in my first try at static timing. Dynamic at 15 degrees at a bit above 750 with a strobe worked much better. I think these are the numbers I used ... not at home at the moment so I'll double check later. Bob England > On Aug 13, 2017, at 5:20 PM, David Porter wrote: > > what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 > degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP > > > >> On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it >> seems to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >> >> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet >> and pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb >> pistons was sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for >> the throttle shaft and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it >> all back together and still having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. >> >> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original >> to car). >> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last >> weekend in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends >> ago) Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was >> a dismal failure!). >> >> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim >> screws and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle >> adjusting screw completely off of the cam lobe. >> >> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting >> on the cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. >> Idle trim screws backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running rich. >> >> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I >> read them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman >> Nock's wonderful collection of papers. >> >> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just >> screwing up somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's >> and I'm not too happy with what I have done so far. >> >> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank >> the carbs again). >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> Bob England >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.c >> om >> >> >> > > -- > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM > 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From engl at accesscomm.ca Sun Aug 13 22:47:45 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2017 22:47:45 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <4a53278d-cf53-d400-9e68-600553ed1623@comcast.net> Bob See notes in CAPS below .... Thanks. BobE -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: August 13, 2017 6:31 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII How do you know you're running rich; is the car blowing black smoke, even when warmed-up with the choke off? YUP. IF I SET THE IDLE UP AROUND 1200rpm, BLACK SMOKE STOPS. Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? BOTTOM GROOVE ON NEEDLE JUST ABOVE BOTTOM OF PISTON (SO YOU CAN'T SEE THE GROOVE). Sounds to me like your floats are set too high; take the dashpots off and see where the top of the jets are relative to the jet bridge, and where the fuel level is inside the jet with the pump on (don't leave the key in the 'on' position for long when the engine isn't running lest you fry your Pertronix). FLOATS COULD BE HIGH. I THOUGHT THEY WERE LOW SO I ADJUSTED THEM HIGHER (USING 7/16" TEST BAR). WHERE SHOULD THE FUEL LEVEL BE INSIDE THE JET WITH THE PUMP ON? Did you inspect the jet diaphragms when you had the carbs apart? I DID INDEED. THEY LOOKED GOOD. If the car sat for a long time they could have cracked; if so you'll never get the mixture set right. FWIW, I have a BJ8 with DWR-1 cam and Pertronix and the idle--at 750 give-or-take--is a bit lopey but solid (I gap my plugs at 0.028"). There were some bad Sports Coils going around, and I'd stick to Champion or NGK plugs. I MAY SWITCH TO THE CHAMPION. I'VE HEARD THAT FOR SOME REASON CHAMPIONS ARE A SWEET SPOT FOR THE CARS. ON THE JAGS, I SWITCHED TO A 35 GAP WITH THE SPORTS COIL OVER A 25 GAP AS THIS SEEMED TO BE THE RECOMMENDED APPROACH. DO YOU THINK A LARGER GAP WOULD HELP? I THINK, LOOKING BACK, WHEN I PICKED UP THE CAR IN MAY THE IDLE WAS LOPEY AS YOU DESCRIBE. ON A RECENT 500km ROUND TRIP, BY THE TIME I GOT HOME THE CAR WAS MISSING (HENCE THE START OF MY JOURNEY TO ADJUST THINGS). Timing for a BJ8 is set at 15deg BTDC at 600RPM with vacuum advance pipe disconnected and port on carb plugged (doesn't make much difference). Bob On 8/13/2017 4:20 PM, David Porter wrote: > what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 > degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP > > > > On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it >> seems to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >> >> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet >> and pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb >> pistons was sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for >> the throttle shaft and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it >> all back together and still having an issue as she is running quite >> rich, hence the call for help. >> >> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original >> to car). >> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last >> weekend in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends >> ago) Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was >> a dismal failure!). >> >> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim >> screws and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle >> adjusting screw completely off of the cam lobe. >> >> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting >> on the cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. >> Idle trim screws backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs >> are still running rich. >> >> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I >> read them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman >> Nock's wonderful collection of papers. >> >> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just >> screwing up somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's >> and I'm not too happy with what I have done so far. >> >> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank >> the carbs again). >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> Bob England >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl at accesscomm.ca From paull at glasgows.co.uk Mon Aug 14 04:36:26 2017 From: paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 11:36:26 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Starter motor query Hi all I having a bit of trouble starting the Healey. When I press the starter button, I just get the dull click which is then followed by a clunk when I release the button. Eventually the car starts, but it usually takes about five or six goes. Apart from being a bit annoying, I'm worried that I may be doing damage to the starter motor? The battery is fully charged and I have removed, cleaned and re-tightened all the connections to the battery, relay switch and starter motor. (During which I inadvertently shorted the two heavy duty cables that connect to the relay which did turn the engine over ... I then remembered to disconnect the battery :-) Any thoughts on what I should try next? Many thanks Paul Leeks BN4 -- EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows.It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. -- EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Aug 14 05:40:45 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 07:40:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Starter motor query References: Paul-- If the starter motor engaged the flywheel and turns over the engine normally when you jump across the two solenoid lugs the problem lies somewhere between the ignition key switch and the solenoid. Either your solenoid, starter button, ignition switch or one of the wires connecting these components is likely the culprit. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Aug 14, 2017 at 6:36 AM, Paul Leeks wrote: > Hi all > > I having a bit of trouble starting the Healey. > > When I press the starter button, I just get the dull click which is then > followed by a clunk when I release the button. Eventually the car starts, > but it usually takes about five or six goes. Apart from being a bit > annoying, I'm worried that I may be doing damage to the starter motor? > > The battery is fully charged and I have removed, cleaned and re-tightened > all the connections to the battery, relay switch and starter motor. > (During which I inadvertently shorted the two heavy duty cables that > connect to the relay which did turn the engine over ... I then remembered > to disconnect the battery :-) > > Any thoughts on what I should try next? > > Many thanks > > Paul Leeks > BN4 > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not > necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to > whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential > information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use > of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or > criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received > this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading > style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in > England & Wales No. 2257022. > > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not > necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to > whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential > information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use > of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or > criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received > this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is > registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 14 05:50:19 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 13:50:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Starter motor query References: Probably the starter relay/solenoid. The contact points may have burned in some degree. If you can dismantle the starter relay you may be able to clean the points or if they are heavily pitted you can often fill in the holes in the copper with silver solder and grind/file and polish the points flat. Make sure the faces of the points make contact over the entire surface. I did this many a time years ago when the money was tight. If you cannot dismantle the relay or if you have no possibility to solder fit a new one. Another less likely cause may be a sticking inertia gear on the starter motor shaft. In that case the starter motor will turn over but the inertia gear does not engage the starter ring gear. Try squirting some WD40 on the inertia gear and shaft and see if that helps. If so dismantle the starter motor or if possible the inertia gear assembly only and clean thoroughly using brake cleaner. Lubricate the inertia gear and shaft by rubbing some graphite/molybdenium powder on the shaft. /*NO*/ oil or grease as this will worsen the problem in due course as it attracts dirt. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-8-2017 om 12:36 schreef Paul Leeks: > Hi all > > I having a bit of trouble starting the Healey. > > When I press the starter button, I just get the dull click which is > then followed by a clunk when I release the button. Eventually the car > starts, but it usually takes about five or six goes. Apart from being > a bit annoying, I'm worried that I may be doing damage to the starter > motor? > > The battery is fully charged and I have removed, cleaned and > re-tightened all the connections to the battery, relay switch and > starter motor. (During which I inadvertently shorted the two heavy > duty cables that connect to the relay which did turn the engine over > ... I then remembered to disconnect the battery :-) > > Any thoughts on what I should try next? > > Many thanks > > Paul Leeks > BN4 > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and > not necessarily those of Glasgows.It is intended only for the > person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or > confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, > distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute > a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender > immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it > from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & > Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. > 2257022. > > * > * > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and > not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the > person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or > confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, > distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute > a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender > immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it > from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales > No. 2257022. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 14 06:09:31 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 14:09:31 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Starter motor query References: Forgot to mention to check the earthing strap from the engine to chassis. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-8-2017 om 13:40 schreef Michael Oritt: > Paul-- > > If the starter motor engaged the flywheel and turns over the engine > normally when you jump across the two solenoid lugs the problem lies > somewhere between the ignition key switch and the solenoid. Either > your solenoid, starter button, ignition switch or one of the wires > connecting these components is likely the culprit. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > On Mon, Aug 14, 2017 at 6:36 AM, Paul Leeks > Hi all > > I having a bit of trouble starting the Healey. > > When I press the starter button, I just get the dull click which > is then followed by a clunk when I release the button. Eventually > the car starts, but it usually takes about five or six goes. > Apart from being a bit annoying, I'm worried that I may be doing > damage to the starter motor? > > The battery is fully charged and I have removed, cleaned and > re-tightened all the connections to the battery, relay switch and > starter motor. (During which I inadvertently shorted the two > heavy duty cables that connect to the relay which did turn the > engine over ... I then remembered to disconnect the battery :-) > > Any thoughts on what I should try next? > > Many thanks > > Paul Leeks > BN4 > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual > and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the > person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged > and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, > dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other > person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please > notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by > mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading > style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. > Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. > > * > * > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual > and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the > person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged > and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, > dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other > person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please > notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by > mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is > registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Aug 14 06:52:47 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 06:52:47 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <00f301d31496$077f27a0$167d76e0$@rr.com> Steve, my Glenn's book shows the dist as 40966A/B with centrifugal advance starting at 500RPM with 7.5 degrees, max centrifugal adds 19 more degrees at 3200RPM plus another 8 for the vacuum advance giving a total max of 34.5 degrees. Thus if at 3200RPM your total is more than 34.5 back off the initial. If your strobe light won't allow you to calculate total, get one that will. ;~) Healey engines are very good at not pinging audibly. Can't count the number of engines I've seen with damaged ring lands from too much advance. On 8/13/2017 6:41 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Dave, are you sure about those numbers? I believe the manual specifies 10 > BTDC static and 15 BTDC @ 600 RPM. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David > Porter > Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 7:20 PM > To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII > > what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 degrees > BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP > > > > On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it seems >> to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >> >> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet and >> pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb pistons was >> sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for the throttle > shaft >> and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together and > still >> having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. >> >> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original to >> car). >> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last weekend >> in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends ago) >> Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was a dismal >> failure!). >> >> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim screws >> and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle adjusting screw >> completely off of the cam lobe. >> >> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting on > the >> cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim > screws >> backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running rich. >> >> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I read >> them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman Nock's > wonderful >> collection of papers. >> >> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just screwing > up >> somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not too > happy >> with what I have done so far. >> >> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank the >> carbs again). >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> Bob England >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> >> -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From sbyers at ec.rr.com Mon Aug 14 07:33:54 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 09:33:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <00f301d31496$077f27a0$167d76e0$@rr.com> <83c128be-e64b-3739-f010-4c9666ec59f3@porterscustom.com> Dave, I'm not the one having the problem and asking the question; but I was responding to your statement that the timing is set to 6? @ 750 RPM, which does not agree with what is published in the BMC workshop manual for the Mk III engine (see attached). My Glenn's AUSTIN AUSTIN-HEALEY REPAIR AND TUNEUP GUIDE (copyright 1965, and also says CHILTON 1432 on the spine) gives the same numbers as the BMC manual. I do understand what you mean about the advance (I have a Mallory Dual-Point distributor with mechanical advance only), but questioned where your numbers came from. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: David Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] Sent: Monday, August 14, 2017 8:53 AM To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII Steve, my Glenn's book shows the dist as 40966A/B with centrifugal advance starting at 500RPM with 7.5 degrees, max centrifugal adds 19 more degrees at 3200RPM plus another 8 for the vacuum advance giving a total max of 34.5 degrees. Thus if at 3200RPM your total is more than 34.5 back off the initial. If your strobe light won't allow you to calculate total, get one that will. ;~) Healey engines are very good at not pinging audibly. Can't count the number of engines I've seen with damaged ring lands from too much advance. On 8/13/2017 6:41 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Dave, are you sure about those numbers? I believe the manual > specifies 10 BTDC static and 15 BTDC @ 600 RPM. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > -----Original Message----- > David Porter > Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 7:20 PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII > > what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 > degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP > > > > On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it >> seems to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >> >> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet >> and pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb >> pistons was sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for >> the throttle > shaft >> and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together >> and > still >> having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. >> >> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original >> to car). >> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last >> weekend in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends >> ago) Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was >> a dismal failure!). >> >> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim >> screws and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle >> adjusting screw completely off of the cam lobe. >> >> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting >> on > the >> cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim > screws >> backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running rich. >> >> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I >> read them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman >> Nock's > wonderful >> collection of papers. >> >> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just >> screwing > up >> somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not >> too > happy >> with what I have done so far. >> >> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank >> the carbs again). >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> Bob England >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.co > m >> >> -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Timing.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 337830 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dkgraber85 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 14 08:30:17 2017 From: dkgraber85 at yahoo.com (Darin Graber) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 08:30:17 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Starter motor query References: <93300005-4d3d-0dab-8347-868712fed716@chello.nl> I had something like this happen to me just recently. Turns out a connection was trying to short out and eventually burned through the wire and shut the car off as it was moving down the road. Fix the wire and the issue went away. I would first check all your contacts again outside of just the starter motor and make sure all of that is OK D Sent from my iPhone 6+ > On Aug 14, 2017, at 5:50 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > Probably the starter relay/solenoid. The contact points may have burned in some degree. If you can dismantle the starter relay you may be able to clean the points or if they are heavily pitted you can often fill in the holes in the copper with silver solder and grind/file and polish the points flat. Make sure the faces of the points make contact over the entire surface. I did this many a time years ago when the money was tight. > If you cannot dismantle the relay or if you have no possibility to solder fit a new one. > Another less likely cause may be a sticking inertia gear on the starter motor shaft. In that case the starter motor will turn over but the inertia gear does not engage the starter ring gear. Try squirting some WD40 on the inertia gear and shaft and see if that helps. If so dismantle the starter motor or if possible the inertia gear assembly only and clean thoroughly using brake cleaner. Lubricate the inertia gear and shaft by rubbing some graphite/molybdenium powder on the shaft. NO oil or grease as this will worsen the problem in due course as it attracts dirt. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 14-8-2017 om 12:36 schreef Paul Leeks: >> Hi all >> >> I having a bit of trouble starting the Healey. >> >> When I press the starter button, I just get the dull click which is then followed by a clunk when I release the button. Eventually the car starts, but it usually takes about five or six goes. Apart from being a bit annoying, I'm worried that I may be doing damage to the starter motor? >> >> The battery is fully charged and I have removed, cleaned and re-tightened all the connections to the battery, relay switch and starter motor. (During which I inadvertently shorted the two heavy duty cables that connect to the relay which did turn the engine over ... I then remembered to disconnect the battery :-) >> >> Any thoughts on what I should try next? >> >> Many thanks >> >> Paul Leeks >> BN4 >> >> EMAIL DISCLAIMER >> Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows.It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. >> >> >> EMAIL DISCLAIMER >> Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dkgraber85 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Aug 14 09:12:37 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 09:12:37 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <00f301d31496$077f27a0$167d76e0$@rr.com> <83c128be-e64b-3739-f010-4c9666ec59f3@porterscustom.com> <011b01d31501$fc4b4be0$f4e1e3a0$@rr.com> yeah.. I get that. It's just that for ANY stock engine to have more than 10 degrees initial is unusual.. sure they seem to run better, but when the total is too high bad things will happen in due course... On 8/14/2017 7:33 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > Dave, I'm not the one having the problem and asking the question; but > I was responding to your statement that the timing is set to 6? @ 750 > RPM, which does not agree with what is published in the BMC workshop > manual for the Mk III engine (see attached). My Glenn's AUSTIN > AUSTIN-HEALEY REPAIR AND TUNEUP GUIDE (copyright 1965, and also says > CHILTON 1432 on the spine) gives the same numbers as the BMC manual. > I do understand what you mean about the advance (I have a Mallory > Dual-Point distributor with mechanical advance only), but questioned > where your numbers came from. > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] > Sent: Monday, August 14, 2017 8:53 AM > To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII > > Steve, my Glenn's book shows the dist as 40966A/B with centrifugal > advance starting at 500RPM with 7.5 degrees, max centrifugal adds 19 > more degrees at 3200RPM plus another 8 for the vacuum advance giving a > total max of 34.5 degrees. Thus if at 3200RPM your total is more than > > 34.5 back off the initial. If your strobe light won't allow you to > calculate total, get one that will. ;~) Healey engines are very good > at not pinging audibly. Can't count the number of engines I've seen > with damaged ring lands from too much advance. > > On 8/13/2017 6:41 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > > Dave, are you sure about those numbers? I believe the manual > > > specifies 10 BTDC static and 15 BTDC @ 600 RPM. > > > > > > Steve Byers > > > HBJ8L/36666 > > > BJ8 Registry > > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > > > David Porter > > > Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 7:20 PM > > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII > > > > > > what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 > > > degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP > > > > > > > > > > > > On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: > > >> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it > > >> seems to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. > > >> > > >> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet > > >> and pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb > > >> pistons was sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for > > >> the throttle > > > shaft > > >> and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together > > >> and > > > still > > >> having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. > > >> > > >> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII > > >> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original > > >> to car). > > >> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). > > >> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last > > >> weekend in the hopes it would help). New rotor. > > >> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil > > >> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends > > >> ago) Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was > > >> a dismal failure!). > > >> > > >> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim > > >> screws and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle > > >> adjusting screw completely off of the cam lobe. > > >> > > >> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting > > >> on > > > the > > >> cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim > > > screws > > >> backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still running > rich. > > >> > > >> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I > > >> read them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman > > >> Nock's > > > wonderful > > >> collection of papers. > > >> > > >> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just > > >> screwing > > > up > > >> somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not > > >> too > > > happy > > >> with what I have done so far. > > >> > > >> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank > > >> the carbs again). > > >> > > >> Thanks in advance. > > >> > > >> Bob England > > >> > > >> _______________________________________________ > > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > > >> donation $12.75 > > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > >> > > > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > >> > > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.co > > > m > > >> > > >> > > -- > > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM > > 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ > > > --- > > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > > http://www.avg.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 14 10:01:23 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 09:01:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <4a53278d-cf53-d400-9e68-600553ed1623@comcast.net> <009e01d314b8$794db4b0$6be91e10$@ca> Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? BOTTOM GROOVE ON NEEDLE JUST ABOVE BOTTOM OF PISTON (SO YOU CAN'T SEE THE GROOVE). >>> I think this may be the problem. I don't have my SU books handy, but IIRC you should set the top of the groove level with the bottom of the piston. I remember doing just this and it made a difference, esp. at idle. ON THE JAGS, I SWITCHED TO A 35 GAP WITH THE SPORTS COIL OVER A 25 GAP AS THIS SEEMED TO BE THE RECOMMENDED APPROACH. DO YOU THINK A LARGER GAP WOULD HELP? >>> I'd try a little smaller gap, just to see. Also, if you have the original coil and it was working, I'd slap it back in. Bob On 8/13/2017 9:47 PM, Bob England wrote: > Bob > > See notes in CAPS below .... > > Thanks. > > BobE > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: August 13, 2017 6:31 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII > > How do you know you're running rich; is the car blowing black smoke, even > when warmed-up with the choke off? > YUP. IF I SET THE IDLE UP AROUND 1200rpm, BLACK SMOKE STOPS. > > Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? > > BOTTOM GROOVE ON NEEDLE JUST ABOVE BOTTOM OF PISTON (SO YOU CAN'T SEE THE > GROOVE). > > Sounds to me like your floats are set too high; take the dashpots off and > see where the top of the jets are relative to the jet bridge, and where the > fuel level is inside the jet with the pump on (don't leave the key in the > 'on' position for long when the engine isn't running lest you fry your > Pertronix). > > FLOATS COULD BE HIGH. I THOUGHT THEY WERE LOW SO I ADJUSTED THEM HIGHER > (USING 7/16" TEST BAR). > WHERE SHOULD THE FUEL LEVEL BE INSIDE THE JET WITH THE PUMP ON? > > Did you inspect the jet diaphragms when you had the carbs apart? > > I DID INDEED. THEY LOOKED GOOD. > > If the car sat for a long time they could have cracked; if so you'll never > get the mixture set right. > > FWIW, I have a BJ8 with DWR-1 cam and Pertronix and the idle--at 750 > give-or-take--is a bit lopey but solid (I gap my plugs at 0.028"). > There were some bad Sports Coils going around, and I'd stick to Champion or > NGK plugs. > > I MAY SWITCH TO THE CHAMPION. I'VE HEARD THAT FOR SOME REASON CHAMPIONS ARE > A SWEET SPOT FOR THE CARS. > ON THE JAGS, I SWITCHED TO A 35 GAP WITH THE SPORTS COIL OVER A 25 GAP AS > THIS SEEMED TO BE THE RECOMMENDED APPROACH. DO YOU THINK A LARGER GAP WOULD > HELP? > > I THINK, LOOKING BACK, WHEN I PICKED UP THE CAR IN MAY THE IDLE WAS LOPEY AS > YOU DESCRIBE. ON A RECENT 500km ROUND TRIP, BY THE TIME I GOT HOME THE CAR > WAS MISSING (HENCE THE START OF MY JOURNEY TO ADJUST THINGS). > > Timing for a BJ8 is set at 15deg BTDC at 600RPM with vacuum advance pipe > disconnected and port on carb plugged (doesn't make much difference). > > Bob > > On 8/13/2017 4:20 PM, David Porter wrote: >> what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 >> degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP >> >> >> >> On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >>> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it >>> seems to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >>> >>> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet >>> and pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb >>> pistons was sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for >>> the throttle shaft and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it >>> all back together and still having an issue as she is running quite >>> rich, hence the call for help. >>> >>> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >>> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original >>> to car). >>> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >>> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last >>> weekend in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >>> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >>> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends >>> ago) Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was >>> a dismal failure!). >>> >>> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim >>> screws and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle >>> adjusting screw completely off of the cam lobe. >>> >>> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting >>> on the cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. >>> Idle trim screws backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs >>> are still running rich. >>> >>> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I >>> read them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman >>> Nock's wonderful collection of papers. >>> >>> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just >>> screwing up somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's >>> and I'm not too happy with what I have done so far. >>> >>> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank >>> the carbs again). >>> >>> Thanks in advance. >>> >>> Bob England >>> >>> >>> > > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Aug 14 10:06:35 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 18:06:35 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <00f301d31496$077f27a0$167d76e0$@rr.com> <83c128be-e64b-3739-f010-4c9666ec59f3@porterscustom.com> <011b01d31501$fc4b4be0$f4e1e3a0$@rr.com> <190e84f9-fbf7-c76d-1f02-fd277d89e01c@porterscustom.com> In general, a total advance exceeding 34 degrees is bad news in many engines. Big end bearings, piston pins and pistons will suffer. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-8-2017 om 17:12 schreef David Porter: > > yeah.. I get that. It's just that for ANY stock engine to have more > than 10 degrees initial is unusual.. sure they seem to run better, but > when the total is too high bad things will happen in due course... > > > On 8/14/2017 7:33 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: >> >> Dave, I'm not the one having the problem and asking the question; but >> I was responding to your statement that the timing is set to 6? @ 750 >> RPM, which does not agree with what is published in the BMC workshop >> manual for the Mk III engine (see attached). My Glenn's AUSTIN >> AUSTIN-HEALEY REPAIR AND TUNEUP GUIDE (copyright 1965, and also says >> CHILTON 1432 on the spine) gives the same numbers as the BMC manual. >> I do understand what you mean about the advance (I have a Mallory >> Dual-Point distributor with mechanical advance only), but questioned >> where your numbers came from. >> >> Steve Byers >> >> HBJ8L/36666 >> >> BJ8 Registry >> >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> Havelock, NC >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: David Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] >> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2017 8:53 AM >> To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII >> >> Steve, my Glenn's book shows the dist as 40966A/B with centrifugal >> advance starting at 500RPM with 7.5 degrees, max centrifugal adds 19 >> more degrees at 3200RPM plus another 8 for the vacuum advance giving >> a total max of 34.5 degrees. Thus if at 3200RPM your total is more than >> >> 34.5 back off the initial. If your strobe light won't allow you to >> calculate total, get one that will. ;~) Healey engines are very good >> at not pinging audibly. Can't count the number of engines I've seen >> with damaged ring lands from too much advance. >> >> On 8/13/2017 6:41 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: >> >> > Dave, are you sure about those numbers? I believe the manual >> >> > specifies 10 BTDC static and 15 BTDC @ 600 RPM. >> >> > >> >> > Steve Byers >> >> > HBJ8L/36666 >> >> > BJ8 Registry >> >> > AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> > Havelock, NC >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > -----Original Message----- >> >> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> >> > David Porter >> >> > Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 7:20 PM >> >> >> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII >> >> > >> >> > what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 >> >> > degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >> >> >> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it >> >> >> seems to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >> >> >> >> >> >> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet >> >> >> and pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb >> >> >> pistons was sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except for >> >> >> the throttle >> >> > shaft >> >> >> and found the floats were set a bit low. Put it all back together >> >> >> and >> >> > still >> >> >> having an issue as she is running quite rich, hence the call for help. >> >> >> >> >> >> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >> >> >> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original >> >> >> to car). >> >> >> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >> >> >> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last >> >> >> weekend in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >> >> >> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >> >> >> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends >> >> >> ago) Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing was >> >> >> a dismal failure!). >> >> >> >> >> >> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim >> >> >> screws and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle >> >> >> adjusting screw completely off of the cam lobe. >> >> >> >> >> >> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not sitting >> >> >> on >> >> > the >> >> >> cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. Idle trim >> >> > screws >> >> >> backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs are still >> running rich. >> >> >> >> >> >> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I >> >> >> read them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman >> >> >> Nock's >> >> > wonderful >> >> >> collection of papers. >> >> >> >> >> >> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just >> >> >> screwing >> >> > up >> >> >> somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's and I'm not >> >> >> too >> >> > happy >> >> >> with what I have done so far. >> >> >> >> >> >> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank >> >> >> the carbs again). >> >> >> >> >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> >> >> >> >> Bob England >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> >> >> donation $12.75 >> >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> >> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> >> >> >> >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.co >> >> > m >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM >> >> 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ >> >> >> --- >> >> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. >> >> http://www.avg.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> > > -- > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM > 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 14 10:18:14 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 09:18:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <00f301d31496$077f27a0$167d76e0$@rr.com> <83c128be-e64b-3739-f010-4c9666ec59f3@porterscustom.com> <011b01d31501$fc4b4be0$f4e1e3a0$@rr.com> <190e84f9-fbf7-c76d-1f02-fd277d89e01c@porterscustom.com> I just tore down a BJ8 engine with about 110K miles since rebuild. I always ran at 15deg per the manual and there was no damage to any of the pistons or rings (see attached). Of course, I always ran 91-octane or better gas (except on a couple occasions when it wasn't available). I never heard any knock, but my co-pilot on my long trips said he did when I inadvertently lugged the engine a couple times. Somebody did a 'study' on why the BJ8 engine needed so much initial advance, I believe the theory is that the plugs are set further recessed in the plug than the earlier engines. Bob On 8/14/2017 8:12 AM, David Porter wrote: > > yeah.. I get that. It's just that for ANY stock engine to have more > than 10 degrees initial is unusual.. sure they seem to run better, but > when the total is too high bad things will happen in due course... > > > On 8/14/2017 7:33 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: >> >> Dave, I'm not the one having the problem and asking the question; but >> I was responding to your statement that the timing is set to 6? @ 750 >> RPM, which does not agree with what is published in the BMC workshop >> manual for the Mk III engine (see attached). My Glenn's AUSTIN >> AUSTIN-HEALEY REPAIR AND TUNEUP GUIDE (copyright 1965, and also says >> CHILTON 1432 on the spine) gives the same numbers as the BMC manual. >> I do understand what you mean about the advance (I have a Mallory >> Dual-Point distributor with mechanical advance only), but questioned >> where your numbers came from. >> >> Steve Byers >> >> HBJ8L/36666 >> >> BJ8 Registry >> >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> Havelock, NC >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: David Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] >> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2017 8:53 AM >> To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII >> >> Steve, my Glenn's book shows the dist as 40966A/B with centrifugal >> advance starting at 500RPM with 7.5 degrees, max centrifugal adds 19 >> more degrees at 3200RPM plus another 8 for the vacuum advance giving >> a total max of 34.5 degrees. Thus if at 3200RPM your total is more than >> >> 34.5 back off the initial. If your strobe light won't allow you to >> calculate total, get one that will. ;~) Healey engines are very good >> at not pinging audibly. Can't count the number of engines I've seen >> with damaged ring lands from too much advance. >> >> On 8/13/2017 6:41 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: >> >> > Dave, are you sure about those numbers? I believe the manual >> >> > specifies 10 BTDC static and 15 BTDC @ 600 RPM. >> >> > >> >> > Steve Byers >> >> > HBJ8L/36666 >> >> > BJ8 Registry >> >> > AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> > Havelock, NC >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: piston1.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 109952 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: piston2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 105302 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 14 12:24:35 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 11:24:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <00f301d31496$077f27a0$167d76e0$@rr.com> <83c128be-e64b-3739-f010-4c9666ec59f3@porterscustom.com> <011b01d31501$fc4b4be0$f4e1e3a0$@rr.com> <190e84f9-fbf7-c76d-1f02-fd277d89e01c@porterscustom.com> <5f376783-3e74-a97a-23b9-b725a6a3d8d7@comcast.net> Should be "further recessed in the HEAD than the earlier engines" On 8/14/2017 9:18 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > I just tore down a BJ8 engine with about 110K miles since rebuild. I > always ran at 15deg per the manual and there was no damage to any of > the pistons or rings (see attached). Of course, I always ran > 91-octane or better gas (except on a couple occasions when it wasn't > available). I never heard any knock, but my co-pilot on my long trips > said he did when I inadvertently lugged the engine a couple times. > > Somebody did a 'study' on why the BJ8 engine needed so much initial > advance, I believe the theory is that the plugs are set further > recessed in the plug than the earlier engines. > > Bob > > > On 8/14/2017 8:12 AM, David Porter wrote: >> >> yeah.. I get that. It's just that for ANY stock engine to have more >> than 10 degrees initial is unusual.. sure they seem to run better, >> but when the total is too high bad things will happen in due course... >> >> >> On 8/14/2017 7:33 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: >>> >>> Dave, I'm not the one having the problem and asking the question; >>> but I was responding to your statement that the timing is set to 6? >>> @ 750 RPM, which does not agree with what is published in the BMC >>> workshop manual for the Mk III engine (see attached). My Glenn's >>> AUSTIN AUSTIN-HEALEY REPAIR AND TUNEUP GUIDE (copyright 1965, and >>> also says CHILTON 1432 on the spine) gives the same numbers as the >>> BMC manual. I do understand what you mean about the advance (I have >>> a Mallory Dual-Point distributor with mechanical advance only), but >>> questioned where your numbers came from. >>> >>> Steve Byers >>> >>> HBJ8L/36666 >>> >>> BJ8 Registry >>> >>> AHCA Delegate at Large >>> >>> Havelock, NC >>> >>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Mon Aug 14 12:30:49 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 12:30:49 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <4a53278d-cf53-d400-9e68-600553ed1623@comcast.net> <009e01d314b8$794db4b0$6be91e10$@ca> <75e70de5-c378-a5ee-7b37-887c90ee63ac@comcast.net> Thanks Bob Attached PDF file is what I went by, but what you say makes sense. Lowering the needle will lean out the mixture (if I have my theory right), particularly with the jet sitting slightly lower than the diaphragm shaft when it is as high as it will go (see photo). When you say you'd try a smaller gap, are you thinking the "0.028" previously mentioned (i.e. between stock "0.025" and the larger "0.035" I had mentioned)? I really appreciate all the help I am getting from everyone on this question. Truly amazing. The PO, a very good friend (who I was too embarrassed to call on this as I figured I'd screwed up his car!) has offered some insight and I'll find out more from him this evening. BobE -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: August 14, 2017 10:01 AM To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? BOTTOM GROOVE ON NEEDLE JUST ABOVE BOTTOM OF PISTON (SO YOU CAN'T SEE THE GROOVE). >>> I think this may be the problem. I don't have my SU books handy, but IIRC you should set the top of the groove level with the bottom of the piston. I remember doing just this and it made a difference, esp. at idle. ON THE JAGS, I SWITCHED TO A 35 GAP WITH THE SPORTS COIL OVER A 25 GAP AS THIS SEEMED TO BE THE RECOMMENDED APPROACH. DO YOU THINK A LARGER GAP WOULD HELP? >>> I'd try a little smaller gap, just to see. Also, if you have the original coil and it was working, I'd slap it back in. Bob On 8/13/2017 9:47 PM, Bob England wrote: > Bob > > See notes in CAPS below .... > > Thanks. > > BobE > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: August 13, 2017 6:31 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII > > How do you know you're running rich; is the car blowing black smoke, > even when warmed-up with the choke off? > YUP. IF I SET THE IDLE UP AROUND 1200rpm, BLACK SMOKE STOPS. > > Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? > > BOTTOM GROOVE ON NEEDLE JUST ABOVE BOTTOM OF PISTON (SO YOU CAN'T SEE > THE GROOVE). > > Sounds to me like your floats are set too high; take the dashpots off > and see where the top of the jets are relative to the jet bridge, and > where the fuel level is inside the jet with the pump on (don't leave > the key in the 'on' position for long when the engine isn't running > lest you fry your Pertronix). > > FLOATS COULD BE HIGH. I THOUGHT THEY WERE LOW SO I ADJUSTED THEM > HIGHER (USING 7/16" TEST BAR). > WHERE SHOULD THE FUEL LEVEL BE INSIDE THE JET WITH THE PUMP ON? > > Did you inspect the jet diaphragms when you had the carbs apart? > > I DID INDEED. THEY LOOKED GOOD. > > If the car sat for a long time they could have cracked; if so you'll > never get the mixture set right. > > FWIW, I have a BJ8 with DWR-1 cam and Pertronix and the idle--at 750 > give-or-take--is a bit lopey but solid (I gap my plugs at 0.028"). > There were some bad Sports Coils going around, and I'd stick to > Champion or NGK plugs. > > I MAY SWITCH TO THE CHAMPION. I'VE HEARD THAT FOR SOME REASON > CHAMPIONS ARE A SWEET SPOT FOR THE CARS. > ON THE JAGS, I SWITCHED TO A 35 GAP WITH THE SPORTS COIL OVER A 25 GAP > AS THIS SEEMED TO BE THE RECOMMENDED APPROACH. DO YOU THINK A LARGER > GAP WOULD HELP? > > I THINK, LOOKING BACK, WHEN I PICKED UP THE CAR IN MAY THE IDLE WAS > LOPEY AS YOU DESCRIBE. ON A RECENT 500km ROUND TRIP, BY THE TIME I > GOT HOME THE CAR WAS MISSING (HENCE THE START OF MY JOURNEY TO ADJUST THINGS). > > Timing for a BJ8 is set at 15deg BTDC at 600RPM with vacuum advance > pipe disconnected and port on carb plugged (doesn't make much difference). > > Bob > > On 8/13/2017 4:20 PM, David Porter wrote: >> what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 >> degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP >> >> >> >> On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >>> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it >>> seems to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >>> >>> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet >>> and pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb >>> pistons was sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except >>> for the throttle shaft and found the floats were set a bit low. Put >>> it all back together and still having an issue as she is running >>> quite rich, hence the call for help. >>> >>> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >>> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original >>> to car). >>> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >>> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last >>> weekend in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >>> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >>> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends >>> ago) Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing >>> was a dismal failure!). >>> >>> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim >>> screws and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle >>> adjusting screw completely off of the cam lobe. >>> >>> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not >>> sitting on the cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. >>> Idle trim screws backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs >>> are still running rich. >>> >>> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I >>> read them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman >>> Nock's wonderful collection of papers. >>> >>> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just >>> screwing up somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's >>> and I'm not too happy with what I have done so far. >>> >>> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank >>> the carbs again). >>> >>> Thanks in advance. >>> >>> Bob England >>> >>> >>> > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: SU-HD - Page 32 - fitting needles.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 351460 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 170812 - DSC04806.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 85219 bytes Desc: not available URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Mon Aug 14 12:31:15 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 12:31:15 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <4a53278d-cf53-d400-9e68-600553ed1623@comcast.net> <009e01d314b8$794db4b0$6be91e10$@ca> <75e70de5-c378-a5ee-7b37-887c90ee63ac@comcast.net> Thanks Bob Attached PDF file is what I went by, but what you say makes sense. Lowering the needle will lean out the mixture (if I have my theory right), particularly with the jet sitting slightly lower than the diaphragm shaft when it is as high as it will go (see photo). When you say you'd try a smaller gap, are you thinking the "0.028" previously mentioned (i.e. between stock "0.025" and the larger "0.035" I had mentioned)? I really appreciate all the help I am getting from everyone on this question. Truly amazing. The PO, a very good friend (who I was too embarrassed to call on this as I figured I'd screwed up his car!) has offered some insight and I'll find out more from him this evening. BobE -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: August 14, 2017 10:01 AM To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? BOTTOM GROOVE ON NEEDLE JUST ABOVE BOTTOM OF PISTON (SO YOU CAN'T SEE THE GROOVE). >>> I think this may be the problem. I don't have my SU books handy, but IIRC you should set the top of the groove level with the bottom of the piston. I remember doing just this and it made a difference, esp. at idle. ON THE JAGS, I SWITCHED TO A 35 GAP WITH THE SPORTS COIL OVER A 25 GAP AS THIS SEEMED TO BE THE RECOMMENDED APPROACH. DO YOU THINK A LARGER GAP WOULD HELP? >>> I'd try a little smaller gap, just to see. Also, if you have the original coil and it was working, I'd slap it back in. Bob On 8/13/2017 9:47 PM, Bob England wrote: > Bob > > See notes in CAPS below .... > > Thanks. > > BobE > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: August 13, 2017 6:31 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII > > How do you know you're running rich; is the car blowing black smoke, > even when warmed-up with the choke off? > YUP. IF I SET THE IDLE UP AROUND 1200rpm, BLACK SMOKE STOPS. > > Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? > > BOTTOM GROOVE ON NEEDLE JUST ABOVE BOTTOM OF PISTON (SO YOU CAN'T SEE > THE GROOVE). > > Sounds to me like your floats are set too high; take the dashpots off > and see where the top of the jets are relative to the jet bridge, and > where the fuel level is inside the jet with the pump on (don't leave > the key in the 'on' position for long when the engine isn't running > lest you fry your Pertronix). > > FLOATS COULD BE HIGH. I THOUGHT THEY WERE LOW SO I ADJUSTED THEM > HIGHER (USING 7/16" TEST BAR). > WHERE SHOULD THE FUEL LEVEL BE INSIDE THE JET WITH THE PUMP ON? > > Did you inspect the jet diaphragms when you had the carbs apart? > > I DID INDEED. THEY LOOKED GOOD. > > If the car sat for a long time they could have cracked; if so you'll > never get the mixture set right. > > FWIW, I have a BJ8 with DWR-1 cam and Pertronix and the idle--at 750 > give-or-take--is a bit lopey but solid (I gap my plugs at 0.028"). > There were some bad Sports Coils going around, and I'd stick to > Champion or NGK plugs. > > I MAY SWITCH TO THE CHAMPION. I'VE HEARD THAT FOR SOME REASON > CHAMPIONS ARE A SWEET SPOT FOR THE CARS. > ON THE JAGS, I SWITCHED TO A 35 GAP WITH THE SPORTS COIL OVER A 25 GAP > AS THIS SEEMED TO BE THE RECOMMENDED APPROACH. DO YOU THINK A LARGER > GAP WOULD HELP? > > I THINK, LOOKING BACK, WHEN I PICKED UP THE CAR IN MAY THE IDLE WAS > LOPEY AS YOU DESCRIBE. ON A RECENT 500km ROUND TRIP, BY THE TIME I > GOT HOME THE CAR WAS MISSING (HENCE THE START OF MY JOURNEY TO ADJUST THINGS). > > Timing for a BJ8 is set at 15deg BTDC at 600RPM with vacuum advance > pipe disconnected and port on carb plugged (doesn't make much difference). > > Bob > > On 8/13/2017 4:20 PM, David Porter wrote: >> what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 >> degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP >> >> >> >> On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: >>> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it >>> seems to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. >>> >>> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet >>> and pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb >>> pistons was sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except >>> for the throttle shaft and found the floats were set a bit low. Put >>> it all back together and still having an issue as she is running >>> quite rich, hence the call for help. >>> >>> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII >>> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original >>> to car). >>> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). >>> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last >>> weekend in the hopes it would help). New rotor. >>> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil >>> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends >>> ago) Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing >>> was a dismal failure!). >>> >>> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim >>> screws and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle >>> adjusting screw completely off of the cam lobe. >>> >>> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not >>> sitting on the cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. >>> Idle trim screws backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs >>> are still running rich. >>> >>> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I >>> read them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman >>> Nock's wonderful collection of papers. >>> >>> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just >>> screwing up somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's >>> and I'm not too happy with what I have done so far. >>> >>> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank >>> the carbs again). >>> >>> Thanks in advance. >>> >>> Bob England >>> >>> >>> > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: SU-HD - Page 32 - fitting needles.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 351460 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 170812 - DSC04806.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 85219 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 14 12:38:51 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 11:38:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <4a53278d-cf53-d400-9e68-600553ed1623@comcast.net> <009e01d314b8$794db4b0$6be91e10$@ca> <75e70de5-c378-a5ee-7b37-887c90ee63ac@comcast.net> <000301d3152b$7547c090$5fd741b0$@ca> Well, so much for my recollections. OTOH, I've seen conflicting info in different SU manuals. Have you checked your needle valves? A leaky one (or two) would mean extra fuel getting dumped in the carb(s). The photo appears to show the jet top ABOVE the jet sleeve; I believe it should be a mm or two below. On 8/14/2017 11:30 AM, Bob England wrote: > Thanks Bob > > Attached PDF file is what I went by, but what you say makes sense. Lowering the needle will lean out the mixture (if I have my theory right), particularly with the jet sitting slightly lower than the diaphragm shaft when it is as high as it will go (see photo). > > When you say you'd try a smaller gap, are you thinking the "0.028" previously mentioned (i.e. between stock "0.025" and the larger "0.035" I had mentioned)? > > I really appreciate all the help I am getting from everyone on this question. Truly amazing. The PO, a very good friend (who I was too embarrassed to call on this as I figured I'd screwed up his car!) has offered some insight and I'll find out more from him this evening. > > BobE > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] > Sent: August 14, 2017 10:01 AM > To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII > > Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? > > BOTTOM GROOVE ON NEEDLE JUST ABOVE BOTTOM OF PISTON (SO YOU CAN'T SEE THE GROOVE). > > >>> I think this may be the problem. I don't have my SU books handy, but IIRC you should set the top of the groove level with the bottom of the piston. I remember doing just this and it made a difference, esp. > at idle. > > ON THE JAGS, I SWITCHED TO A 35 GAP WITH THE SPORTS COIL OVER A 25 GAP AS THIS SEEMED TO BE THE RECOMMENDED APPROACH. DO YOU THINK A LARGER GAP WOULD HELP? > > >>> I'd try a little smaller gap, just to see. Also, if you have the original coil and it was working, I'd slap it back in. > > Bob > > > From engl at accesscomm.ca Mon Aug 14 13:00:29 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 13:00:29 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <4a53278d-cf53-d400-9e68-600553ed1623@comcast.net> <009e01d314b8$794db4b0$6be91e10$@ca> <75e70de5-c378-a5ee-7b37-887c90ee63ac@comcast.net> <000301d3152b$7547c090$5fd741b0$@ca> Thanks Bob The photo may be misleading - the jet top is below the jet sleeve. This is with the jet adjusting screw fully off of the lobe (i.e. jet will not go any higher). I checked the needle valves yesterday and they seemed good (looked almost brand new). I replaced them with Grose Jets anyway to be on the safe side. BobE -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: August 14, 2017 12:39 PM To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII Well, so much for my recollections. OTOH, I've seen conflicting info in different SU manuals. Have you checked your needle valves? A leaky one (or two) would mean extra fuel getting dumped in the carb(s). The photo appears to show the jet top ABOVE the jet sleeve; I believe it should be a mm or two below. On 8/14/2017 11:30 AM, Bob England wrote: > Thanks Bob > > Attached PDF file is what I went by, but what you say makes sense. Lowering the needle will lean out the mixture (if I have my theory right), particularly with the jet sitting slightly lower than the diaphragm shaft when it is as high as it will go (see photo). > > When you say you'd try a smaller gap, are you thinking the "0.028" previously mentioned (i.e. between stock "0.025" and the larger "0.035" I had mentioned)? > > I really appreciate all the help I am getting from everyone on this question. Truly amazing. The PO, a very good friend (who I was too embarrassed to call on this as I figured I'd screwed up his car!) has offered some insight and I'll find out more from him this evening. > > BobE > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] > Sent: August 14, 2017 10:01 AM > To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII > > Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? > > BOTTOM GROOVE ON NEEDLE JUST ABOVE BOTTOM OF PISTON (SO YOU CAN'T SEE THE GROOVE). > > >>> I think this may be the problem. I don't have my SU books handy, but IIRC you should set the top of the groove level with the bottom of the piston. I remember doing just this and it made a difference, esp. > at idle. > > ON THE JAGS, I SWITCHED TO A 35 GAP WITH THE SPORTS COIL OVER A 25 GAP AS THIS SEEMED TO BE THE RECOMMENDED APPROACH. DO YOU THINK A LARGER GAP WOULD HELP? > > >>> I'd try a little smaller gap, just to see. Also, if you have the original coil and it was working, I'd slap it back in. > > Bob > > > From hopi at charter.net Mon Aug 14 14:31:03 2017 From: hopi at charter.net (hopi at charter.net) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 14:31:03 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 1954 Nash-Healey For sale 1954 Nash-Healey Owned since 1976 Believed to be the 1954 New York Auto Show car Currently apart. Engine freshly rebuilt but has been sitting about 5 years Rebuilt starter Rebuilt generator Transmission rebuilt Front lever action shocks rebuilt New rear shocks New windshield in crate New wiring harness in box (Rhode Island Wiring Harness) Lots of other new parts. Thinking $37,500 John Barth - Wisconsin 608-577-6558 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Aug 14 15:08:03 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 17:08:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Starter motor query References: <64b78c1b-a0bc-57f4-0eb6-a522a0a5d3a2@chello.nl> If the strap is missing, the starter will turn very slowly. Without it your ending does not have a good ground. Mine was missing when I bought my car and I noticed it because the carb linkeage got very warm and I got minor shocks when I touched it. The engine had to ground somewhere. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Monday, August 14, 2017 8:10 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter motor query Forgot to mention to check the earthing strap from the engine to chassis. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-8-2017 om 13:40 schreef Michael Oritt: Paul-- If the starter motor engaged the flywheel and turns over the engine normally when you jump across the two solenoid lugs the problem lies somewhere between the ignition key switch and the solenoid. Either your solenoid, starter button, ignition switch or one of the wires connecting these components is likely the culprit. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Aug 14, 2017 at 6:36 AM, Paul Leeks wrote: Hi all I having a bit of trouble starting the Healey. When I press the starter button, I just get the dull click which is then followed by a clunk when I release the button. Eventually the car starts, but it usually takes about five or six goes. Apart from being a bit annoying, I'm worried that I may be doing damage to the starter motor? The battery is fully charged and I have removed, cleaned and re-tightened all the connections to the battery, relay switch and starter motor. (During which I inadvertently shorted the two heavy duty cables that connect to the relay which did turn the engine over ... I then remembered to disconnect the battery :-) Any thoughts on what I should try next? Many thanks Paul Leeks BN4 EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From varley at cosmos.net.au Mon Aug 14 15:42:40 2017 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 07:42:40 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Austin question Hi Guys. Excuse the non Healey question. I'm hoping someone on the list has access to early Austin records. I have an Austin A70 Hampshire utility with an unusual body / chassis number prefix. Normally the utilities were prefixed BQU2. This one is BQC2. I have suspicions that it was built as a cab chassis commercial with no rear utility tub. I have questioned British Heritage about it and they say that in the records BQU2 has been crossed out and BQC2 hand written with the comment "new type". However they admit they don't have a lot of knowledge about it as they produce very few heritage certificates for this range of vehicles. This vehicle was produced in December 1950 was shipped from Austin in lead primer. I have attached a photo for interest. Regards Larry Varley -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: a70.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 660389 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Aug 14 18:02:14 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 17:02:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 1954 Nash-Healey References: Can't afford it, but would love to see some photos Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Aug 14, 2017 at 1:31 PM, wrote: > For sale 1954 Nash-Healey > Owned since 1976 > > Believed to be the 1954 New York Auto Show car > > Currently apart. > > Engine freshly rebuilt but has been sitting about 5 years > > Rebuilt starter > > Rebuilt generator > > Transmission rebuilt > > Front lever action shocks rebuilt > > New rear shocks > > New windshield in crate > > New wiring harness in box (Rhode Island Wiring Harness) > > Lots of other new parts. > > > > Thinking $37,500 > > > > John Barth - Wisconsin > > 608-577-6558 <(608)%20577-6558> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rohanmarr at mac.com Mon Aug 14 18:11:09 2017 From: rohanmarr at mac.com (Rohan Marr) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 17:11:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Austin question References: <008e01d31546$4129f880$c37de980$@cosmos.net.au> That is a wonderful body style for a ute! Great looking vehicle. Rohan > On Aug 14, 2017, at 2:42 PM, Larry Varley wrote: > > Hi Guys. Excuse the non Healey question. I?m hoping someone on the list has access to early Austin records. I have an Austin A70 Hampshire utility with an unusual body / chassis number prefix. Normally the utilities were prefixed BQU2. This one is BQC2. I have suspicions that it was built as a cab chassis commercial with no rear utility tub. I have questioned British Heritage about it and they say that in the records BQU2 has been crossed out and BQC2 hand written with the comment ?new type?. However they admit they don?t have a lot of knowledge about it as they produce very few heritage certificates for this range of vehicles. This vehicle was produced in December 1950 was shipped from Austin in lead primer. I have attached a photo for interest. > Regards > Larry Varley > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rohanmarr at mac.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jnew at hazelden.ca Mon Aug 14 18:55:37 2017 From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 20:55:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <75e70de5-c378-a5ee-7b37-887c90ee63ac@comcast.net> <000301d3152b$7547c090$5fd741b0$@ca> Attached is a better image for the needle position, from page 6 of "S.U. Service Sheet AUC 9622 B" The accompanying text is: "Fit the correct needle and lock it in position so that the shoulder on the shank (A), or the lower edge of the groove (B), is flush with the piston base. " John P. New London, Ontario, Canada '67 BJ8 On August 14, 2017 12:30:49 PM Bob England wrote: > Thanks Bob > > Attached PDF file is what I went by, but what you say makes sense. Lowering the needle will lean out the mixture (if I have my theory right), particularly with the jet sitting slightly lower than the diaphragm shaft when it is as high as it will go (see photo). > > When you say you'd try a smaller gap, are you thinking the "0.028" previously mentioned (i.e. between stock "0.025" and the larger "0.035" I had mentioned)? > > I really appreciate all the help I am getting from everyone on this question. Truly amazing. The PO, a very good friend (who I was too embarrassed to call on this as I figured I'd screwed up his car!) has offered some insight and I'll find out more from him this evening. > > BobE > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] > Sent: August 14, 2017 10:01 AM > To: Bob England; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII > > Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? > > BOTTOM GROOVE ON NEEDLE JUST ABOVE BOTTOM OF PISTON (SO YOU CAN'T SEE THE GROOVE). > > >>> I think this may be the problem. I don't have my SU books handy, but IIRC you should set the top of the groove level with the bottom of the piston. I remember doing just this and it made a difference, esp. > at idle. > > ON THE JAGS, I SWITCHED TO A 35 GAP WITH THE SPORTS COIL OVER A 25 GAP AS THIS SEEMED TO BE THE RECOMMENDED APPROACH. DO YOU THINK A LARGER GAP WOULD HELP? > > >>> I'd try a little smaller gap, just to see. Also, if you have the original coil and it was working, I'd slap it back in. > > Bob > > > On 8/13/2017 9:47 PM, Bob England wrote: > > Bob > > > > See notes in CAPS below .... > > > > Thanks. > > > > BobE > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > > Spidell > > Sent: August 13, 2017 6:31 PM > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII > > > > How do you know you're running rich; is the car blowing black smoke, > > even when warmed-up with the choke off? > > YUP. IF I SET THE IDLE UP AROUND 1200rpm, BLACK SMOKE STOPS. > > > > Where did you set the needles in the vacuum pistons? > > > > BOTTOM GROOVE ON NEEDLE JUST ABOVE BOTTOM OF PISTON (SO YOU CAN'T SEE > > THE GROOVE). > > > > Sounds to me like your floats are set too high; take the dashpots off > > and see where the top of the jets are relative to the jet bridge, and > > where the fuel level is inside the jet with the pump on (don't leave > > the key in the 'on' position for long when the engine isn't running > > lest you fry your Pertronix). > > > > FLOATS COULD BE HIGH. I THOUGHT THEY WERE LOW SO I ADJUSTED THEM > > HIGHER (USING 7/16" TEST BAR). > > WHERE SHOULD THE FUEL LEVEL BE INSIDE THE JET WITH THE PUMP ON? > > > > Did you inspect the jet diaphragms when you had the carbs apart? > > > > I DID INDEED. THEY LOOKED GOOD. > > > > If the car sat for a long time they could have cracked; if so you'll > > never get the mixture set right. > > > > FWIW, I have a BJ8 with DWR-1 cam and Pertronix and the idle--at 750 > > give-or-take--is a bit lopey but solid (I gap my plugs at 0.028"). > > There were some bad Sports Coils going around, and I'd stick to > > Champion or NGK plugs. > > > > I MAY SWITCH TO THE CHAMPION. I'VE HEARD THAT FOR SOME REASON > > CHAMPIONS ARE A SWEET SPOT FOR THE CARS. > > ON THE JAGS, I SWITCHED TO A 35 GAP WITH THE SPORTS COIL OVER A 25 GAP > > AS THIS SEEMED TO BE THE RECOMMENDED APPROACH. DO YOU THINK A LARGER > > GAP WOULD HELP? > > > > I THINK, LOOKING BACK, WHEN I PICKED UP THE CAR IN MAY THE IDLE WAS > > LOPEY AS YOU DESCRIBE. ON A RECENT 500km ROUND TRIP, BY THE TIME I > > GOT HOME THE CAR WAS MISSING (HENCE THE START OF MY JOURNEY TO ADJUST THINGS). > > > > Timing for a BJ8 is set at 15deg BTDC at 600RPM with vacuum advance > > pipe disconnected and port on carb plugged (doesn't make much difference). > > > > Bob > > > > On 8/13/2017 4:20 PM, David Porter wrote: > >> what are the compression numbers? Timing is set at 750RPM and 6 > >> degrees BTDC. Is it better or worse with chokes engaged? DP > >> > >> > >> > >> On 8/13/2017 3:23 PM, Bob England wrote: > >>> I've had a rough idle in the car since we picked it up in May and it > >>> seems to have gotten worse ever so slightly since then. > >>> > >>> I've putzed around trying the easy stuff and finally got the bullet > >>> and pulled the carbs yesterday (that was fun!) as one of the carb > >>> pistons was sticking ever so slightly. Stripped the carbs except > >>> for the throttle shaft and found the floats were set a bit low. Put > >>> it all back together and still having an issue as she is running > >>> quite rich, hence the call for help. > >>> > >>> Car: late '64 build BJ8 MkIII > >>> Carbs : HD8 (I think they were new about 15 years ago - not original > >>> to car). > >>> Cam : Dennis Welch DWR-1 (installed about 15 years ago). > >>> Distributor : stock with Petronix Ignitor (Petronix installed last > >>> weekend in the hopes it would help). New rotor. > >>> Coil : Lucas Sportcoil > >>> Plugs : new Autolite gapped at 25 (installed a couple of weekends > >>> ago) Timing : 15 degrees with strobe (my attempt at static timing > >>> was a dismal failure!). > >>> > >>> I set the carbs as per the manual - 3.5 turns open on the idle trim > >>> screws and 2.5 turn rich on the jet adjusting screw. Fast idle > >>> adjusting screw completely off of the cam lobe. > >>> > >>> The best I can get it is with the jets totally lean (i.e. not > >>> sitting on the cam lobe) and the fast idle screws setting the idle speed. > >>> Idle trim screws backed way out with little impact on idle. Carbs > >>> are still running rich. > >>> > >>> I think I have memorized the adjustment procedure from the manuals I > >>> read them so many time - (Bentley, BMC, and Haynes), and Norman > >>> Nock's wonderful collection of papers. > >>> > >>> Should I be going to a leaner needle in the carbs? Or am I just > >>> screwing up somewhere? This is my first attempt at adjusting SU's > >>> and I'm not too happy with what I have done so far. > >>> > >>> Any and all suggestions appreciated (except maybe if I have to yank > >>> the carbs again). > >>> > >>> Thanks in advance. > >>> > >>> Bob England > >>> > >>> > >>> > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: a6207b.png Type: image/png Size: 109717 bytes Desc: not available URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Mon Aug 14 19:42:36 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 19:42:36 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Carb Adjustment Help Requested - BJ8 MkIII References: <02d101d3147a$6891d630$39b58290$@ca> <9f2ee5d9-5ad8-c50b-fd83-47e498b81a36@porterscustom.com> <4a53278d-cf53-d400-9e68-600553ed1623@comcast.net> <009e01d314b8$794db4b0$6be91e10$@ca> <75e70de5-c378-a5ee-7b37-887c90ee63ac@comcast.net> <000301d3152b$7547c090$5fd741b0$@ca> <003a01d3152f$99923b20$ccb6b160$@ca> Hello all, and thanks again for everyone's insight on my issue. In answer to the questions put to me over the last little while: Needles are standard UH at 0.125" base dia. The needles do show signs of slight rubbing in the 3/4" closest to the base (i.e. most common throttle settings). Jet sits about 1.6mm below the throttle bridge at its maximum height. Gas level in jets - tough to tell, but below the level of the top of the jet when jet is pulled down all the way. Thanks again. BobE From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Aug 14 21:08:34 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 13:08:34 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Hugh Healey Greetings This may be stretching it a little, but I am trying to find out some basic information of Hugh Healey, the brother of Donald Healey. Don't need much as a birthdate would be enough for an article I am writing. DMH was oldest, then there was another brother named Edward who died shortly after birth and lastly Hugh. Anyone know? Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Aug 14 21:29:30 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 20:29:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?led_lights?= club member put LED lights on his BT7 and he noticed that when the fuel pump is pumping his lights flicker. normal? said i would tap into the collective wisdom of the list and find out for him. TIA From jwhlyadv at aol.com Mon Aug 14 21:33:46 2017 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2017 23:33:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 1954 Nash-Healey References: Coupe or convertible? Jim Werner -----Original Message----- From: hopi To: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Sent: Mon, Aug 14, 2017 7:14 pm Subject: [Healeys] 1954 Nash-Healey For sale 1954 Nash-Healey Owned since 1976 Believed to be the 1954 New York Auto Show car Currently apart. Engine freshly rebuilt but has been sitting about 5 years Rebuilt starter Rebuilt generator Transmission rebuilt Front lever action shocks rebuilt New rear shocks New windshield in crate New wiring harness in box (Rhode Island Wiring Harness) Lots of other new parts. Thinking $37,500 John Barth - Wisconsin 608-577-6558 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Tue Aug 15 06:05:40 2017 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 13:05:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey Austin question References: <008e01d31546$4129f880$c37de980$@cosmos.net.au> It's a great looking car and you've obviously done a load of work on it. You don't say what year it is. This is on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austin_A70 (but note that several of the links are broken) The note to the picture of the utility A70 - similar to yours - on the page says: "The Hampshire was a larger version of the A40 Somerset, (shared the same doors) it looked similar but longer and wider and larger 4 cyl engine. Available mainly as Saloon, but a few Estates and Pickups were built." Unfortunaterly it doesn't say by whom. There's various stuff in the Museums Victoria Collection - some of the pickups were assembled in Melbourne (which I guess that you know anyway). The odd thing is that all of the documentation refers to fared-in bodies (i.e. including the flatbed) and yet yours doesn't have one. So I guess that the bed and body must have been made by a third-party or were one that were being trialled (hence "new model"??). Perhaps Austin were looking at production of a light commercial vehicle? The Austin Counties Register ( http://www.austincounties.org.uk/) seems to imply on their counties page that the chassis were made available for third parties to build commercial vehicles. ["A longer-wheelbase chassis was available for commercial applications, including pick-ups, vans and metal-bodied estate cars."] You could try contacting them. I notice that some bodies for utilities were made by Carbodies...I wonder if that **might** be the origin of the "C"? One thing might be to find out who the local importer was and see if their records are available. Perhaps you could find out in what form it was imported to Aus (I assume that it was an original import) Wish I could help more. Peter On 14/08/2017 22:42, Larry Varley wrote: > Hi Guys. Excuse the non Healey question. I?m hoping someone on the list has > access to early Austin records. I have an Austin A70 Hampshire utility with an > unusual body / chassis number prefix. Normally the utilities were prefixed BQU2. > This one is BQC2. I have suspicions that it was built as a cab chassis > commercial with no rear utility tub. I have questioned British Heritage about it > and they say that in the records BQU2 has been crossed out and BQC2 hand written > with the comment ?new type?. However they admit they don?t have a lot of > knowledge about it as they produce very few heritage certificates for this range > of vehicles. This vehicle was produced in December 1950 was shipped from Austin > in lead primer. I have attached a photo for interest. > > Regards > > Larry Varley > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Aug 15 06:25:43 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 08:25:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] led lights References: <20170815032930.6134.qmail@server278.com> LED lamps are weird when it comes to dimmers and power interrupters. Especially when using a dimmer. Does not seem to matter what voltage the lamp is, a flicker usually occurs. I don?t understand why but I also don?t really understand LED lamps either. Perry Jim wrote: club member put LED lights on his BT7 and he noticed that when the fuel pump is pumping his lights flicker. normal? said i would tap into the collective wisdom of the list and find out for him. TIA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Tue Aug 15 08:44:43 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 10:44:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil References: The shocks on my 66 BJ8 need oil. What type should I use? Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Tue Aug 15 08:57:20 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 10:57:20 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil References: Use a 20W motorcycle fork oil. Heavier if you want a stiffer ride. ? Regards, ? Charlie Schott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Wescoe" To: "healeys" Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 9:44:43 AM Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil The shocks on my 66 BJ8 need oil.? What type should I use? Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From banjojohn at cox.net Tue Aug 15 09:09:17 2017 From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 10:09:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil FredI believe Moss sells shock oil which I have used in the past, ?but I am using Harley Davidson fork oil type E. ?Mostly because it was handier to run to the HD dealer than to place an order with Moss and pay shipping, etc. ?It's supposed to be the same weight and hydraulic properties.John O'Brien'61 bugeye (Lucy)'65 BJ8 (Madelyn) Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7. -------- Original message --------From: Fred Wescoe Date: 8/15/17 9:44 AM (GMT-06:00) To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil The shocks on my 66 BJ8 need oil.? What type should I use? Thanks, Fred66 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Aug 15 09:13:11 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 08:13:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] led lights References: <20170815032930.6134.qmail@server278.com> known issue with grounded relay. info out there on the net. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Aug 14, 2017 9:51 PM, "healeymanjim" wrote: > club member put LED lights on his BT7 and he noticed that when the fuel > pump is pumping his lights flicker. normal? said i > would tap into the collective wisdom of the list and find out for him. TIA > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Aug 15 09:27:26 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 15:27:26 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil References: , I believe that it normally takes 20W oil. Motorcycle fork oil is usually 20W and that is what I have used in the past and it has worked well for me. Let's see what the rest of the list thinks. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Fred Wescoe Sent: August 15, 2017 2:44 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil The shocks on my 66 BJ8 need oil. What type should I use? Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue Aug 15 09:27:43 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 08:27:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil References: Fred, I use motorcycle fork oil. I would think that 30 wt would be a good choice for a BJ8. Maybe 40 wt for a firmer ride. Richard On Tue, Aug 15, 2017 at 7:44 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > The shocks on my 66 BJ8 need oil. What type should I use? > > Thanks, > > Fred > 66 BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From peter at nosimport.com Tue Aug 15 12:42:02 2017 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 13:42:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil References: Motor oils and hydraulic oils have different "scales". SAE(scale)20W flows like ISO(scale) AW68 Actually closer to 25W AW68 is designed as an hydraulic oil, and would be preferred to motor oil. Certainly SAE20 can be used. A better choice would be the AW68..... available at farm/tractor type stores eg. Tractor Supply. You should only add oil to a shock if it shows signs of leaking. Be careful that you do not fill it absolutely full.... there needs to be an air space for expansion. Armstrong designed the filler plugs and locations to make it difficult to overfill, but people have found ways. Peter C On 8/15/2017 9:44 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > The shocks on my 66 BJ8 need oil. What type should I use? > > Thanks, > > Fred > 66 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com > -- Peter Caldwell World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI 2517 Seiferth Rd Madison WI 53716 (608)223-9400 www.nosimport.com http://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From go2ghill at aol.com Tue Aug 15 16:13:29 2017 From: go2ghill at aol.com (Greg Hill) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 18:13:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Transport from Healey Week Want to ship my Healey from Monterey to Tucson. and having trouble getting it coordinated. Wonder if I could get some advise or recommendations. Greg Hill Bj8 Sent from AOL Mobile Mail -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rv9aplane at gmail.com Tue Aug 15 19:46:38 2017 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2017 18:46:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lockheed Brake Booster Can anyone post a link to or send a picture of their installed Lockheed Brake Booster? I'm not sure how or where to mount it (bought the car completely disassembled and have never worked on one until now). My car is a '67 BJ8 MkIII Phase II. Thanks! Sent from my iPad From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Aug 15 20:22:20 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 02:22:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Speedo Angle Drive References: <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I need the speedo angle drive unit that screws into the overdrive for my transmission rebuild going on right now.? There are no angle drives available for the BN2 4 speed side shift trans so the big retailers are offering the BN1 speedo angle drive for the BN2 transmission.? Since the gearing is different, will the speedo be off because of this?? Will I merely need to get the speedo re-calibrated?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Wed Aug 16 02:53:27 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 10:53:27 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Speedo Angle Drive References: <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Don't know about the BN1/2 angle drives, but the drives for the 6 cylinder cars are all 1 to 1. At least the ones that screw on the overdrive, I have yet to see a non overdrive car. What are the gearings in the angle drives for the 4 cylinder cars? If the gearing is different, yes you need to recalibrate if you want the speedo to be accurate. Which it never will be anyway, so I would live with it and recalculate in my head. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 16 aug. 2017 kl. 04:22 skrev Michael MacLean : > > Will I merely need to get the speedo re-calibrated? From paull at glasgows.co.uk Wed Aug 16 07:30:10 2017 From: paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 14:30:10 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Starter motor query References: Thanks to everybody who replied. It certainly looks like the starter solenoid (all the other checks suggested seem to be ok), so I will get a new one ordered and see how I get on. Thanks once again Paul BN4 On 14 August 2017 at 11:36, Paul Leeks wrote: > Hi all > > I having a bit of trouble starting the Healey. > > When I press the starter button, I just get the dull click which is then > followed by a clunk when I release the button. Eventually the car starts, > but it usually takes about five or six goes. Apart from being a bit > annoying, I'm worried that I may be doing damage to the starter motor? > > The battery is fully charged and I have removed, cleaned and re-tightened > all the connections to the battery, relay switch and starter motor. > (During which I inadvertently shorted the two heavy duty cables that > connect to the relay which did turn the engine over ... I then remembered > to disconnect the battery :-) > > Any thoughts on what I should try next? > > Many thanks > > Paul Leeks > BN4 > -- EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows.It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. -- EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 16 11:50:30 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 10:50:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Speedo Angle Drive References: <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815@mail.yahoo.com> Moss lists it in their catalog. Pricey as hell--$229.99--but they should have them. Part# 768-020. On 8/15/2017 7:22 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I need the speedo angle drive unit that screws into the overdrive for > my transmission rebuild going on right now. There are no angle drives > available for the BN2 4 speed side shift trans so the big retailers > are offering the BN1 speedo angle drive for the BN2 transmission. > Since the gearing is different, will the speedo be off because of > this? Will I merely need to get the speedo re-calibrated? > Mike MacLean > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Aug 16 12:26:27 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 18:26:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Speedo Angle Drive References: <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815@mail.yahoo.com> <6d5c85bd-6763-b1d4-aff0-1be05e9cc81a@comcast.net> OK, I am now told by my transmission rebuilder not to use the BN1 angle drive because the cable end of the drive is a different size thread than the 4 speed transmission.Mike MacLean On Wednesday, August 16, 2017 11:15 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Moss lists it in their catalog.? Pricey as hell--$229.99--but they should have them.? Part# 768-020. On 8/15/2017 7:22 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: I need the speedo angle drive unit that screws into the overdrive for my transmission rebuild going on right now.? There are no angle drives available for the BN2 4 speed side shift trans so the big retailers are offering the BN1 speedo angle drive for the BN2 transmission.? Since the gearing is different, will the speedo be off because of this?? Will I merely need to get the speedo re-calibrated? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyron at yahoo.com Wed Aug 16 14:22:55 2017 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 20:22:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] AH 100-6 Windshield Brackets References: <1986167534.2966981.1502914975898.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone know a source for Austin Healey 6 CYl Roadster Windshield Brackets that are correct. ?I have three sets of Moss Brackets, part# 805-060 That don't properly align the windshield frame. When installing the new brackets there is a .010 inch gap in in the lower right corner and a .030 gap in the upper left corner. ?This is the Windshielf frame for my 100-6. ?When I replaced the windshield on my MkII BN7 I had to remanufacture the lower RH Bracket to close the gap. ?I would prefer not to have to remanufacture 4 brackets on my 100-6. ?The old bracket were rusted beyond being usefull. TIARon Mitchell000-6 BN-6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmags at cox.net Wed Aug 16 16:01:41 2017 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 17:01:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] shock oil Not sure if anyone still sells Armstrong P624 shock oil; thats what I use. I believe that I got it from TRF years ago. You might try TRF, Moss, Healey Surgeons, Rimmers or Apply Hydraulics. Sent from my iPad From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 16 16:07:12 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 15:07:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Speedo Angle Drive References: <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1658472208.2536878.1502850140815@mail.yahoo.com> <6d5c85bd-6763-b1d4-aff0-1be05e9cc81a@comcast.net> <490677702.3076848.1502907987356@mail.yahoo.com> The only diffenence is the speedo cable has a different size. You can use the BN2 BJ8 angle drive on all the transmissions and then use the BN4 BT7 speedo cable. I have the piece for the speedo drive now David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2017 11:26 AM To: Bob Spidell ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Speedo Angle Drive OK, I am now told by my transmission rebuilder not to use the BN1 angle drive because the cable end of the drive is a different size thread than the 4 speed transmission. Mike MacLean On Wednesday, August 16, 2017 11:15 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Moss lists it in their catalog. Pricey as hell--$229.99--but they should have them. Part# 768-020. On 8/15/2017 7:22 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: I need the speedo angle drive unit that screws into the overdrive for my transmission rebuild going on right now. There are no angle drives available for the BN2 4 speed side shift trans so the big retailers are offering the BN1 speedo angle drive for the BN2 transmission. Since the gearing is different, will the speedo be off because of this? Will I merely need to get the speedo re-calibrated? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Wed Aug 16 17:20:19 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 16:20:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil References: hhvSdigiYBxRWhhvTdPMg9 Hello, This is what the manual recommends: "The use of Armstrong Super (thin) Shock Absorber Oil is recommended. When this is not available any good quality mineral oil to specification SAE 20/20W is acceptable. This alternative oil is not suitable for low temperature operation." Regards, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Caldwell Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 11:42 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shock oil Motor oils and hydraulic oils have different "scales". SAE(scale)20W flows like ISO(scale) AW68 Actually closer to 25W AW68 is designed as an hydraulic oil, and would be preferred to motor oil. Certainly SAE20 can be used. A better choice would be the AW68..... available at farm/tractor type stores eg. Tractor Supply. You should only add oil to a shock if it shows signs of leaking. Be careful that you do not fill it absolutely full.... there needs to be an air space for expansion. Armstrong designed the filler plugs and locations to make it difficult to overfill, but people have found ways. Peter C On 8/15/2017 9:44 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: The shocks on my 66 BJ8 need oil. What type should I use? Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com -- Peter Caldwell World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI 2517 Seiferth Rd Madison WI 53716 (608)223-9400 www.nosimport.com http://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Wed Aug 16 18:34:29 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 17:34:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] radiator neck length I have two new radiator caps labeled long, but they are just slightly over 1.0 inch. It seems like that would be borderline too short. Can I get a cap that is more like 1 1/4?Ken Freese65 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Wed Aug 16 18:37:03 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 17:37:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] shock oil References: <75DA1BCE-02D4-4ABB-B04B-58891138F7A9@cox.net> I have some 50 year old shock oil in the Armstrong bottle. Less than half bottle I will sell for $25. The beautiful plastic bottle is probably worth that empty.Ken Freese65 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Frank Magnusson To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 15:01:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] shock oil Not sure if anyone still sells Armstrong P624 shock oil; thats what I use. I believe that I got it from TRF years ago. You might try TRF, Moss, Healey Surgeons, Rimmers or Apply Hydraulics. Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Wed Aug 16 20:58:22 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 19:58:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] radiator neck length References: iAPLd42pYWJpbiAPMdMJnx Ken, Use a Stant Radiator Cap part number 10206. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of goldengt at cal.net Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2017 5:34 PM To: Healeys, Forum Subject: [Healeys] radiator neck length I have two new radiator caps labeled long, but they are just slightly over 1.0 inch. It seems like that would be borderline too short. Can I get a cap that is more like 1 1/4? Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Wed Aug 16 23:08:48 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2017 15:08:48 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Shock oil References: hhvSdigiYBxRWhhvTdPMg9 <237E061424B7488C8E138F2E1F024722@AllInOne> Greetings We are indeed fortunate in Australia as shock absorber oil is available from Penrite. Have a look at:- http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/shocker-oil-1 Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Thursday, 17 August 2017 9:20 AM To: 'Peter Caldwell'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shock oil Hello, This is what the manual recommends: "The use of Armstrong Super (thin) Shock Absorber Oil is recommended. When this is not available any good quality mineral oil to specification SAE 20/20W is acceptable. This alternative oil is not suitable for low temperature operation." Regards, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Caldwell Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 11:42 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shock oil Motor oils and hydraulic oils have different "scales". SAE(scale)20W flows like ISO(scale) AW68 Actually closer to 25W AW68 is designed as an hydraulic oil, and would be preferred to motor oil. Certainly SAE20 can be used. A better choice would be the AW68..... available at farm/tractor type stores eg. Tractor Supply. You should only add oil to a shock if it shows signs of leaking. Be careful that you do not fill it absolutely full.... there needs to be an air space for expansion. Armstrong designed the filler plugs and locations to make it difficult to overfill, but people have found ways. Peter C On 8/15/2017 9:44 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: The shocks on my 66 BJ8 need oil. What type should I use? Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com -- Peter Caldwell World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI 2517 Seiferth Rd Madison WI 53716 (608)223-9400 www.nosimport.com http://stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 17 09:14:00 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2017 08:14:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] radiator neck length References: <1301983464.511170.1502930069592.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> The 1? cap is correct David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: goldengt at cal.net Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2017 5:34 PM To: Healeys, Forum Subject: [Healeys] radiator neck length I have two new radiator caps labeled long, but they are just slightly over 1.0 inch. It seems like that would be borderline too short. Can I get a cap that is more like 1 1/4? Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Aug 17 21:55:09 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2017 13:55:09 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] DMH Photo Hello Would anyone have a good photo of Donald Healey (in reasonable resolution) I can use in an article I'm writing. I don't mind from which era it comes from. Pre Healey cars, Austin-Healey or later. Just as long as it's okay for me to use. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Fri Aug 18 08:14:09 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2017 10:14:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] DMH Photo References: <010b01d317d5$caa091f0$5fe1b5d0$@tpg.com.au> Google "Donald Healey" and a whole host of pictures comes up. Good luck with your search,. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn To: healeys Sent: Fri, Aug 18, 2017 7:07 am Subject: [Healeys] DMH Photo Hello ? Would anyone have a good photo of Donald Healey (in reasonable resolution) I can use in an article I?m writing. ? I don?t mind from which era it comes from. Pre Healey cars, Austin-Healey or later. Just as long as it?s okay for me to use. ? Many thanks ? Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Fri Aug 18 13:41:57 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2017 15:41:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 67 BJ8 carb heat shield gasket First of all, I am new to this list in the last 30 days. What a great resource! I have learned a tremendous amount in the short time I have been a member! I am working on a '67 BJ8 that has sat in my garage since 1992, 25 years ago! It needs to get on the road again! The carbs were pulled and rebuilt. I am now mounting them back on the engine. There are 2 square gaskets (Moss #529-120) that go between the intake manifold and the insulating block (Moss #696-070) before the heat shield. On each one there is a silver side and a black side. Which side goes toward the engine? I thank you in advance for your help!!! Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Aug 18 15:05:17 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2017 17:05:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 67 BJ8 carb heat shield gasket References: <009d01d3185a$0d81a5c0$2884f140$@nc.rr.com> Welcome to the list, Bob! I have been here since 1996 and I know you will find it a tremendous resource. Shoulda been here years ago, though. The silver side is to reflect heat away from the carbs, so it goes toward the engine. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC TARHEELY license plate From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Simmen Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 3:42 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 67 BJ8 carb heat shield gasket First of all, I am new to this list in the last 30 days. What a great resource! I have learned a tremendous amount in the short time I have been a member! I am working on a '67 BJ8 that has sat in my garage since 1992, 25 years ago! It needs to get on the road again! The carbs were pulled and rebuilt. I am now mounting them back on the engine. There are 2 square gaskets (Moss #529-120) that go between the intake manifold and the insulating block (Moss #696-070) before the heat shield. On each one there is a silver side and a black side. Which side goes toward the engine? I thank you in advance for your help!!! Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 19755 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Aug 18 20:23:22 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2017 22:23:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New Blog Post... Identifying BN1 gears If anyone else out there is working on BN1 gearboxes this blog post may be of help. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2017/08/18/identifying-bn1-gearbox-gears/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paull at glasgows.co.uk Sat Aug 19 07:27:16 2017 From: paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2017 14:27:16 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? Hi all I need to replace the coolant/antifreeze and was wondering if it mattered what type I used? AH Spares has Castrol anti-freeze at ?11 / ltr, whereas Halfords (local high street car store) has OAT Antifreeze Concentrate at ?5 / ltr. I live in temperate Lancashire UK, so I don't need to cope with any temperature extremes. So, can I just use the modern one? Many thanks Paul 100/6 BN4 -- EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows.It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. -- EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Aug 19 09:53:44 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2017 08:53:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? References: Info here: http://www.truckinginfo.com/channel/aftermarket/article/story/2013/05/how-much-do-you-know-about-heavy-duty-coolants.aspx I've used regular 'green stuff' with distilled water--deionized is fine, too--for over 130K miles in my BJ8 with no cooling/coolant issues (roughly 40/60 AF/water). You can use more water if there's no chance of a freeze, and you'll get slightly better cooling. Chances are, you'll be draining and replacing your coolant occasionally for reasons not necessarily related to the cooling system anyway. The OAT stuff should work fine, but the article mentions a potential contamination problem. The Castrol seems a bit dear; regular Prestone 'green' goes for about $17/gallon over here, and a gallon gives about a 40/60 water/AF mix which is good down to below freezing. I recently had my engine overhauled and there was no scale or sludge to speak of. Bob On 8/19/2017 6:27 AM, Paul Leeks wrote: > Hi all > > I need to replace the coolant/antifreeze and was wondering if it > mattered what type I used? > > AH Spares has Castrol anti-freeze at ?11 / ltr, whereas Halfords > (local high street car store) has OAT Antifreeze Concentrate at ?5 / ltr. > > I live in temperate Lancashire UK, so I don't need to cope with any > temperature extremes. > > So, can I just use the modern one? > > Many thanks > > Paul > 100/6 BN4 > > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and > not necessarily those of Glasgows.It is intended only for the > person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or > confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, > distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute > a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender > immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it > from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & > Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. > 2257022. > > * > * > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and > not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the > person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or > confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, > distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute > a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender > immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it > from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales > No. 2257022. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rft2 at aol.com Sat Aug 19 12:34:54 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2017 14:34:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? References: Hi Paul, AH engine is all cast iron and may have older hoses and gaskets. So I would be hesitant to use an OAT due to potential hose and gasket degradation. My recommendation would be to use a nitrited coolant to protect the cast iron, such as Zerex G-05 (or some BASF equivelant). If you want to go conventional coolant make sure it has nitrites (commonly found in heavy duty diesel coolants). Not sure which Castrol product you are looking at, tell me the ingrediants off the back of the bottle and I can give you an opinion. I've used Zerex G-05, its an extended life coolant with nitrites for cast iron, silicates for aluminum(radiator) protection, azoles for yellow metal and a high dose of benzoic acid to long life protection of most metals in the engine. Good luck Mal Hickok rft2 at aol.com 269-207-5074 -----Original Message----- From: Paul Leeks To: Sent: Sat, Aug 19, 2017 12:12 pm Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? Hi all I need to replace the coolant/antifreeze and was wondering if it mattered what type I used? AH Spares has Castrol anti-freeze at ?11 / ltr, whereas Halfords (local high street car store) has OAT Antifreeze Concentrate at ?5 / ltr. I live in temperate Lancashire UK, so I don't need to cope with any temperature extremes. So, can I just use the modern one? Many thanks Paul 100/6 BN4 EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows.It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. EMAILDISCLAIMER Any opinionsexpressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily thoseof Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed andmay contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, thecopying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other personmay constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the senderimmediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from yoursystem. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Aug 19 12:47:10 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2017 11:47:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? References: j4Dmd8MHvvNWZj4Dnded54 Paul, May I suggest a 50/50 mixture of Ethylene Glycol antifreeze and water with the addition of Valvoline?s Zerex Racing Super Coolant additive. The antifreeze brand is not critical but Zerex does make good coolant products. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Leeks Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2017 6:27 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? Hi all I need to replace the coolant/antifreeze and was wondering if it mattered what type I used? AH Spares has Castrol anti-freeze at ?11 / ltr, whereas Halfords (local high street car store) has OAT Antifreeze Concentrate at ?5 / ltr. I live in temperate Lancashire UK, so I don't need to cope with any temperature extremes. So, can I just use the modern one? Many thanks Paul 100/6 BN4 EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows.It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sat Aug 19 12:53:46 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2017 11:53:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?antifreeze?= have a gallon of mercedes benz antifreeze given to me by a neighbor. can this be used in a healey. have always used prestone, etc. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Aug 19 13:57:19 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2017 21:57:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? References: Use regular green or blue coolant (premix or 50% concentrate with 50% distilled or de-ionised water). Never use the red or purple stuff in an older car as it may destroy some (head) gaskets. The brand is not that important. The formulas are fairly simple. I have used the green/blue coolants for more than 50 years in various cars, now classics, and never had any issues. I do change the coolant every 2 years and flush the engine and radiator with the thermostat removed using a radiator cleaning agent however it hardly ever shows up any sludge. The engines I did dismantle for a rebuild were very clean internally. On the Continent it is very rare that pure water is used. Nearly all use coolant this in contrast with the UK and USA. Kees Oudesluijs Op 19-8-2017 om 15:27 schreef Paul Leeks: > Hi all > > I need to replace the coolant/antifreeze and was wondering if it > mattered what type I used? > > AH Spares has Castrol anti-freeze at ?11 / ltr, whereas Halfords > (local high street car store) has OAT Antifreeze Concentrate at ?5 / ltr. > > I live in temperate Lancashire UK, so I don't need to cope with any > temperature extremes. > > So, can I just use the modern one? > > Many thanks > > Paul > 100/6 BN4 > > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and > not necessarily those of Glasgows.It is intended only for the > person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or > confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, > distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute > a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender > immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it > from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & > Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. > 2257022. > > * > * > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and > not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the > person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or > confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, > distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute > a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender > immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it > from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales > No. 2257022. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Aug 19 16:01:44 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 00:01:44 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] antifreeze References: <20170819185346.24101.qmail@server278.com> I'd stick with green stuff (Prestone, Zerex, etc.). Have heard of problems mixing different types/colors, up to and including gelling of the liquids. If you were to install, you'd probably want to flush all evidence of any earlier type of AF before changing to a different type. Some AFs are for iron blocks, some for aluminum and some--like Prestone--say 'for all engine types.' Plus, green AF is available pretty much everywhere, and MB stuff may possibly only be sold by dealers and requires payment of your first-born. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > On August 19, 2017 at 8:53 PM healeymanjim wrote: > > have a gallon of mercedes benz antifreeze given to me by a neighbor. can this be used in a healey. have always used > prestone, etc. > > _______________________________________________ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sat Aug 19 22:26:18 2017 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 16:26:18 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] New Blog Post... Identifying BN1 gears References: Thanks, Michael, As with all your 'how to' blogs, most useful. Cheers Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, 19 August 2017 2:23 p.m. To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] New Blog Post... Identifying BN1 gears If anyone else out there is working on BN1 gearboxes this blog post may be of help. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2017/08/18/identifying-bn1-gearbox-gears/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 19 23:44:42 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2017 22:44:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims Has anyone made the front axle stub wheel bearing shims? I have bought them before but was curious about making them because you never know what size shim will be needed during a bearing repack. Moreover, it appears Moss has them for a BJ8 but not a MKII BT7. John Spaur San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Aug 20 00:50:23 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 06:50:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Brake Drums References: <437347030.1285997.1503211823530.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Now that I am working on the front suspension of my BN2 restoration my attention is directed at the rear axle.? Here is a picture of the rear axle that was held under the car when I bought it in 2003 with a come-a-long.? I can't seem to find or remember if it had any brake drums.? Is it possible that the two steel wheels that were on it could be just bolted directly to the hub without brake drums, just to roll the car around?? If so, where can I get a pair of rear brake drums for my BN2?? Not available from Moss or Vicky Brit.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BN2-1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 210260 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Aug 20 00:51:31 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 08:51:31 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] antifreeze References: <20170819185346.24101.qmail@server278.com> <1579087153.458688.1503180105204@connect.xfinity.com> Green/blue coolant cannot be mixed with red/purple. If you have the latter in your engine, drain it asap, flush with a radiator cleaner and plenty of water after removing the thermostat. Refit the thermostat and fill up with the proper stuff, i.e. green/blue coolant. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-8-2017 om 0:01 schreef Bob Spidell: > > I'd stick with green stuff (Prestone, Zerex, etc.).? Have heard of > problems mixing different types/colors, up to and including gelling of > the liquids.? If you were to install, you'd probably want to flush all > evidence of any earlier type of AF before changing to a different > type. Some AFs are for iron blocks, some for aluminum and some--like > Prestone--say 'for all engine types.'?? Plus, green AF is available > pretty much everywhere, and MB stuff may possibly only be sold by > dealers and requires payment of your first-born. > > > Bob > > > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > On August 19, 2017 at 8:53 PM healeymanjim > wrote: > > have a gallon of mercedes benz antifreeze given to me by a > neighbor. can this be used in a healey. have always used > prestone, etc. > > _______________________________________________ > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Aug 20 07:11:21 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 09:11:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims References: <000001d31977$6f72bf30$4e583d90$@sbcglobal.net> John, Is Moss just out of stock? They're shown on their web page, item 121, part numbers 263-1[4567]5. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28887 I'd also be interested in hearing about any experiences making shims - especially how they kept the edges flat. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/20/2017 01:44 AM, John Spaur wrote: > Has anyone made the front axle stub wheel bearing shims? I have bought > them before but was curious about making them because you never know > what size shim will be needed during a bearing repack. Moreover, it > appears Moss has them for a BJ8 but not a MKII BT7. > > John Spaur > > San Jose, CA > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From goldengt at cal.net Sun Aug 20 08:09:08 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 08:09:08 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims I figured the edges get squeezed flat so it doesn't matter. Seemed to work in the bad old days when we couldn't get new.Ken Freese?65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob Haskell Date: 8/20/17 7:11 AM (GMT-07:00) To: John Spaur , healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims John, Is Moss just out of stock?? They're shown on their web page, item 121, part numbers 263-1[4567]5. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28887 I'd also be interested in hearing about any experiences making shims - especially how they kept the edges flat. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/20/2017 01:44 AM, John Spaur wrote: > Has anyone made the front axle stub wheel bearing shims? I have bought > them before but was curious about making them because you never know > what size shim will be needed during a bearing repack. Moreover, it > appears Moss has them for a BJ8 but not a MKII BT7. > > John Spaur > > San Jose, CA > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 20 09:01:55 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock British Car Specialists) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 08:01:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Brake Drums References: <437347030.1285997.1503211823530.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <437347030.1285997.1503211823530@mail.yahoo.com> We have used drums available David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 Enjoy www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs . . Sent from my iPad > On Aug 19, 2017, at 11:50 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Now that I am working on the front suspension of my BN2 restoration my attention is directed at the rear axle. Here is a picture of the rear axle that was held under the car when I bought it in 2003 with a come-a-long. I can't seem to find or remember if it had any brake drums. Is it possible that the two steel wheels that were on it could be just bolted directly to the hub without brake drums, just to roll the car around? If so, where can I get a pair of rear brake drums for my BN2? Not available from Moss or Vicky Brit. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 20 09:08:17 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 08:08:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims References: <20170820140915.298C11A036A@mail.cal.net> I was fixated on the BJ8 kit where you get 12 shims for what 3 would cost for a BT7. John From: goldengt [mailto:goldengt at cal.net] Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2017 7:09 AM To: Bob Haskell ; John Spaur ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims I figured the edges get squeezed flat so it doesn't matter. Seemed to work in the bad old days when we couldn't get new. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- Date: 8/20/17 7:11 AM (GMT-07:00) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims John, Is Moss just out of stock? They're shown on their web page, item 121, part numbers 263-1[4567]5. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28887 I'd also be interested in hearing about any experiences making shims - especially how they kept the edges flat. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/20/2017 01:44 AM, John Spaur wrote: > Has anyone made the front axle stub wheel bearing shims? I have bought > them before but was curious about making them because you never know > what size shim will be needed during a bearing repack. Moreover, it > appears Moss has them for a BJ8 but not a MKII BT7. > > John Spaur > > San Jose, CA > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 20 09:36:36 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 17:36:36 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims References: <20170820140915.298C11A036A@mail.cal.net> McMaster-Carr has a large variety of shims: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=190um7n Of course, you'd need to know the ID and OD. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > On August 20, 2017 at 4:09 PM goldengt wrote: > > I figured the edges get squeezed flat so it doesn't matter. Seemed to work in the bad old days when we couldn't get new. > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Bob Haskell > Date: 8/20/17 7:11 AM (GMT-07:00) > To: John Spaur , healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims > > John, > > Is Moss just out of stock? They're shown on their web page, item 121, > part numbers 263-1[4567]5. > > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28887 > > I'd also be interested in hearing about any experiences making shims - > especially how they kept the edges flat. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 08/20/2017 01:44 AM, John Spaur wrote: > > Has anyone made the front axle stub wheel bearing shims? I have bought > > them before but was curious about making them because you never know > > what size shim will be needed during a bearing repack. Moreover, it > > appears Moss has them for a BJ8 but not a MKII BT7. > > > > John Spaur > > > > San Jose, CA > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eorr at cogeco.ca Sun Aug 20 10:04:01 2017 From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 12:04:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Seedometer Would anyone on the list have a spare BJ8 speedometer they would sell . Alternately the one I have needs the nylon drive gear for the odometer 22 tooth . The Smiths number on the face is SN6125/22 Ed Orr ?66 BJ8 ?65BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Aug 20 12:09:14 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 11:09:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims References: <20170820140915.298C11A036A@mail.cal.net> jU8edU1YfWJpbjU8fdg3mf Hello, I am in the process of restoring a Mark 1 BT7. I have what appears to be original BMC shims and replacements I recently purchased from AH Spares. These are the dimensions: AH Spares 22.4mm x 30.2mm (0.882" x 1.189") BMC 22.7mm x 32.3mm (0.894" x 1.272") Unless you are a Metallurgist I would not suggest making shims. Matching the dimensions is easy, matching the tensile strength, wear performance and steel chemistry is hard. I trust this helps, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2017 8:37 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims McMaster-Carr has a large variety of shims: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=190um7n Of course, you'd need to know the ID and OD. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA On August 20, 2017 at 4:09 PM goldengt wrote: I figured the edges get squeezed flat so it doesn't matter. Seemed to work in the bad old days when we couldn't get new. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Bob Haskell Date: 8/20/17 7:11 AM (GMT-07:00) To: John Spaur , healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims John, Is Moss just out of stock? They're shown on their web page, item 121, part numbers 263-1[4567]5. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28887 I'd also be interested in hearing about any experiences making shims - especially how they kept the edges flat. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/20/2017 01:44 AM, John Spaur wrote: > Has anyone made the front axle stub wheel bearing shims? I have bought > them before but was curious about making them because you never know > what size shim will be needed during a bearing repack. Moreover, it > appears Moss has them for a BJ8 but not a MKII BT7. > > John Spaur > > San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmags at cox.net Sun Aug 20 13:06:29 2017 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 14:06:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] making wheel bearing shims John, if Moss doesn't have what you need, try Healey Surgeons; they should have everything you need and their shipping is very fast. Frank --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 20 21:47:11 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2017 20:47:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims References: <20170820140915.298C11A036A@mail.cal.net> jU8edU1YfWJpbjU8fdg3mf <8C677F14725140C49F049F59ADAF04D1@AllInOne> Hi Harold, The info. helps. I have shim stock of various thickness for different purposes. The metallurgy is easy. Thanks, John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2017 11:09 AM To: 'Bob Spidell' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims Hello, I am in the process of restoring a Mark 1 BT7. I have what appears to be original BMC shims and replacements I recently purchased from AH Spares. These are the dimensions: AH Spares 22.4mm x 30.2mm (0.882" x 1.189") BMC 22.7mm x 32.3mm (0.894" x 1.272") Unless you are a Metallurgist I would not suggest making shims. Matching the dimensions is easy, matching the tensile strength, wear performance and steel chemistry is hard. I trust this helps, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2017 8:37 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims McMaster-Carr has a large variety of shims: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shims/=190um7n Of course, you'd need to know the ID and OD. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA On August 20, 2017 at 4:09 PM goldengt Date: 8/20/17 7:11 AM (GMT-07:00) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims John, Is Moss just out of stock? They're shown on their web page, item 121, part numbers 263-1[4567]5. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28887 I'd also be interested in hearing about any experiences making shims - especially how they kept the edges flat. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/20/2017 01:44 AM, John Spaur wrote: > Has anyone made the front axle stub wheel bearing shims? I have bought > them before but was curious about making them because you never know > what size shim will be needed during a bearing repack. Moreover, it > appears Moss has them for a BJ8 but not a MKII BT7. > > John Spaur > > San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Aug 21 04:48:49 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2017 11:48:49 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Shims Hi, With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing the bearings in my MkII's front RHS when winter has set in. (Won't be long!) Anyhow, I've half a pack of unused shims left and there will be others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can't reuse some/all of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones? As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, provided the shims' metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, the old one will still be good to go??? They're only somewhat technical packing pieces??? As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Aug 21 05:08:42 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2017 07:08:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Simon, Yes you can use the old ones as long as they're in good shape. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/21/2017 06:48 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > Hi, > > With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing the > bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won?t be long!) > > Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be others > in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all of the old > ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones? > > As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, provided > the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, the old one > will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat technical packing > pieces??? > > As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 21 08:49:27 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2017 16:49:27 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> You can sit down; you are correct. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > On August 21, 2017 at 12:48 PM Simon Lachlan wrote: > > > Hi, > > With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing the bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won?t be long!) > > Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones? > > As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, the old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat technical packing pieces??? > > As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. > > Simon > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paull at glasgows.co.uk Mon Aug 21 10:15:05 2017 From: paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks) Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2017 17:15:05 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? References: Thanks all For info ... I have gone for 5ltr blue ethylene glycol (non-OAT) from Hexeal Chemicals for GBP 11.80. Thanks for all your help. Paul On 19 August 2017 at 14:27, Paul Leeks wrote: > Hi all > > I need to replace the coolant/antifreeze and was wondering if it mattered > what type I used? > > AH Spares has Castrol anti-freeze at ?11 / ltr, whereas Halfords (local > high street car store) has OAT Antifreeze Concentrate at ?5 / ltr. > > I live in temperate Lancashire UK, so I don't need to cope with any > temperature extremes. > > So, can I just use the modern one? > > Many thanks > > Paul > 100/6 BN4 > > -- EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows.It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. -- EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Aug 21 22:03:04 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 00:03:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> "Only" somewhat technical packing pieces? Don't under-estimate their importance. When fully tightened with zero end-float, the "tube" created around the stub axle created by putting, inner races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure is not followed, as we all know. If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or creased. Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I can to remove end-float. It should not matter as they are in compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up once with dire consequences. In that application, the engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002". I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the thing to pieces. When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for me. Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of you have an A10 .. Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: August-21-17 6:49 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Shims Hi, With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing the bearings in my MkII's front RHS when winter has set in. (Won't be long!) Anyhow, I've half a pack of unused shims left and there will be others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can't reuse some/all of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones? As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, provided the shims' metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, the old one will still be good to go??? They're only somewhat technical packing pieces??? As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Mon Aug 21 22:38:32 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2017 21:38:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? References: j4Dmd8MHvvNWZj4Dnded54 <5A249D98C82C443DA368167AC87E75E5@AllInOne> Harold, this is a timely discussion for me, as I have a fresh engine. The Zerex site indicates that their Racing Super Coolant needs to me mixed at a ratio of 90% water/10% coolant. Your email suggests you add it to an ethaline glycol mixture. Is that the case? And how are you diluting it? Thanks. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2017 11:47 AM To: 'Paul Leeks' ; '' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? Paul, May I suggest a 50/50 mixture of Ethylene Glycol antifreeze and water with the addition of Valvoline?s Zerex Racing Super Coolant additive. The antifreeze brand is not critical but Zerex does make good coolant products. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Leeks Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2017 6:27 AM Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? Hi all I need to replace the coolant/antifreeze and was wondering if it mattered what type I used? AH Spares has Castrol anti-freeze at ?11 / ltr, whereas Halfords (local high street car store) has OAT Antifreeze Concentrate at ?5 / ltr. I live in temperate Lancashire UK, so I don't need to cope with any temperature extremes. So, can I just use the modern one? Many thanks Paul 100/6 BN4 EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. _____ It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential _____ information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Aug 21 23:03:36 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2017 22:03:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims References: <000001d31977$6f72bf30$4e583d90$@sbcglobal.net> <0d507f21-836e-a466-0dcd-59af114a4a49@earthlink.net> Bob, I made the two on the left a long time ago. Not sure about the one on the right. The one on the far left was cut with sharp scissors then placed between two washers that were approximately the correct size for the I.D, clamped in a vice and filed to fit. I used two bronze washers to file the O.D. I had a good shim to start with, possible the one on the right. Probably used fine emery cloth to sand them a little. A little looseness in the I.D. probably does not matter because it is clamped in place but they are a very good fit. As for sanding them a little you are not going to lose much thickness and, after all, you are shimming things get the correct end float. Cheers, John Spaur -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell [mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net] Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2017 6:11 AM To: John Spaur ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Making wheel bearing shims John, Is Moss just out of stock? They're shown on their web page, item 121, part numbers 263-1[4567]5. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28887 I'd also be interested in hearing about any experiences making shims - especially how they kept the edges flat. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/20/2017 01:44 AM, John Spaur wrote: > Has anyone made the front axle stub wheel bearing shims? I have bought > them before but was curious about making them because you never know > what size shim will be needed during a bearing repack. Moreover, it > appears Moss has them for a BJ8 but not a MKII BT7. > > John Spaur > > San Jose, CA > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMAG0027.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3838814 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMAG0029.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3454118 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Aug 22 00:22:30 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 16:22:30 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Ivy Healey Hello Does anyone know when Ivy Healey died? Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Aug 22 00:43:01 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 16:43:01 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Stain Glass Windows Hello again Does anyone have a good photo of the DMH commemoration window at St Michael's Perranporth they can send me? Many thanks Patrick Quinn -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 22 02:47:08 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 10:47:08 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? References: <5A249D98C82C443DA368167AC87E75E5@AllInOne> <056f01d31b00$832275e0$896761a0$@roadrunner.com> There is no need to add Zerex. It may help in extreme conditions (e.g. racing) but if everything is new/rebuild it is a waste of money. Make sure your radiator is rebuild with a fresh and uprated core, preferably with an electric fan,? and use an original SMITHS/Remax/AC sleeved thermostat. Kees Oudesluijs Op 22-8-2017 om 6:38 schreef Bruce Steele: > > Harold, this is a timely discussion for me, as I have a fresh engine.? > The Zerex site indicates that their Racing Super Coolant needs to me > mixed at a ratio of 90% water/10% coolant.? Your email suggests you > add it to an ethaline glycol mixture.? Is that the case?? And how are > you diluting it? > > Thanks. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Harold Manifold > *Sent:* Saturday, August 19, 2017 11:47 AM > *To:* 'Paul Leeks' ; '' > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? > > Paul, > > May I suggest a 50/50 mixture of Ethylene Glycol antifreeze and water > with the addition of Valvoline?s Zerex Racing Super Coolant additive. > The antifreeze brand is not critical but Zerex does make good coolant > products. > > Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Paul Leeks > *Sent:* Saturday, August 19, 2017 6:27 AM > *Subject:* [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? > > Hi all > > > I need to replace the coolant/antifreeze and was wondering if it > mattered what type I used? > > AH Spares has Castrol anti-freeze at ?11 / ltr, whereas Halfords > (local high street car store) has OAT Antifreeze Concentrate at ?5 / ltr. > > I live in temperate Lancashire UK, so I don't need to cope with any > temperature extremes. > > So, can I just use the modern one? > > Many thanks > > Paul > > 100/6 BN4 > > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and > not necessarily those of Glasgows. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may > contain privileged and/or confidential > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or > use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of > civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you > have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. > Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations > Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. > > EMAIL DISCLAIMER > Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and > not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the > person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or > confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, > distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute > a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender > immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it > from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales > No. 2257022. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Aug 22 05:56:21 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 21:56:21 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Stain Glass Windows References: <00cd01d31b11$e7a7e390$b6f7aab0$@tpg.com.au> Wonderful Jim and to have Bic included is a bonus. Best wishes Patrick From: Jim Frakes [mailto:JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com] Sent: Tuesday, 22 August 2017 9:08 PM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Stain Glass Windows pix sent directly to Patrick. Taken by Jim Frakes in 2000 on the UK2K trip from USA. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2017 2:43 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Stain Glass Windows Hello again Does anyone have a good photo of the DMH commemoration window at St Michael's Perranporth they can send me? Many thanks Patrick Quinn CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information that is privileged or confidential. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number listed above or by return e-mail. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: winmail.dat Type: application/ms-tnef Size: 5122 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Aug 22 08:10:35 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 10:10:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ivy Healey References: <00b901d31b0f$0a1bf4a0$1e53dde0$@tpg.com.au> All I could find was she passed away in 1980, but no exact date appears online that I could find: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Donald_Healey On Tue, Aug 22, 2017 at 2:22 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > Hello > > > > Does anyone know when Ivy Healey died? > > > > Thanks > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 22 08:43:00 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 07:43:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <004f01d31afb$8dfba8b0$a9f2fa10$@sympatico.ca> Couple things: 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to allow for expansion of the bearings when warm.? Please correct me if I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon. 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)* Bob * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course).? They must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.? I'm thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...' On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > > ?Only? somewhat technical packing pieces? Don?t under-estimate their > importance.? When fully tightened with zero end-float,? the ?tube? > created around the stub axle created by putting, inner races, spacer, > shims, washer and nut into compression against the hub act as a > structural member and take some of the load off of the stub axle, > which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure is not followed, > as we all know. > > If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will > re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or creased.? > Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I can to remove > end-float.? It should not matter as they are in compression, but I had > a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up once with dire > consequences.? In that application,? the engineering, in my opinion, > is a bit dodgy as the shims were used to set end-float on the crank, > which I seem to recall was 0.002?.? I had included a thin shim in the > combination and that small amount of movement, at engine speeds, was > enough to pound the thing to pieces.? When I rebuild it I worked out > the thickness of shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one > thick shim for me.? Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but > if any of you have an A10 ?. > > Mirek > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Simon Lachlan > *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims > > Hi, > > With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing the > bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won?t be long!) > > Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be others > in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all of the old > ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones? > > As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, > provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, the > old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat technical > packing pieces??? > > As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 22 08:45:51 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 07:45:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? References: <5A249D98C82C443DA368167AC87E75E5@AllInOne> <056f01d31b00$832275e0$896761a0$@roadrunner.com> <576747e3-e742-fa94-8e12-f4bbd24f7d26@chello.nl> I've used the granddaddy of coolant additives, Redline 'Water Wetter,' a few times and, as far as I can tell, it has no effect (just turns the coolant into a sickly reddish-green color). Bob On 8/22/2017 1:47 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > There is no need to add Zerex. It may help in extreme conditions (e.g. > racing) but if everything is new/rebuild it is a waste of money. Make > sure your radiator is rebuild with a fresh and uprated core, > preferably with an electric fan,? and use an original SMITHS/Remax/AC > sleeved thermostat. > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 22-8-2017 om 6:38 schreef Bruce Steele: >> >> Harold, this is a timely discussion for me, as I have a fresh >> engine.? The Zerex site indicates that their Racing Super Coolant >> needs to me mixed at a ratio of 90% water/10% coolant.? Your email >> suggests you add it to an ethaline glycol mixture.? Is that the >> case?? And how are you diluting it? >> >> Thanks. >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Aug 22 11:51:29 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 13:51:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes I know this subject has been frequently discussed but this may just help someone. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2017/08/21/bleeding-austin-healey-4-wheel-drum-brakes/ Michael S -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue Aug 22 15:01:27 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 07:01:27 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes References: ...thanks for that Michael. One additional thing ? which I thought was 'snake oil' when I was told about it but can conform that it works: once you've got some degree of resistance at the pedal (but not enough) jam the pedal down hard and leave overnight or as long as you can. Doing this (perhaps more than once) gradually improves the pedal. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane From: Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 3:51 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes I know this subject has been frequently discussed but this may just help someone. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2017/08/21/bleeding-austin-healey-4-wheel-drum-brakes/ Michael S -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Aug 22 17:41:30 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 16:41:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Ivy Healey References: <00b901d31b0f$0a1bf4a0$1e53dde0$@tpg.com.au> I found this, not sure if it's the correct Ivy http://announcements.johnstonpress.co.uk/obituaries/banburyguardian-uk/obituary.aspx?page=lifestory&pid=183720881 Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Aug 21, 2017 at 11:22 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > Hello > > > > Does anyone know when Ivy Healey died? > > > > Thanks > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Aug 22 17:51:16 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 09:51:16 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Ivy Healey References: <00b901d31b0f$0a1bf4a0$1e53dde0$@tpg.com.au> Hello Many thanks to everyone who responded to my requests on Ivy Maud Healey and the St Michael?s stain glass window. Ivy Maud Healey, the wife of Donald Mitchell Healey died on March 25th 1980. Thanks to Ross Osborne for this information in the form of a photo of Donald and Ivy?s grave. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, 23 August 2017 9:42 AM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ivy Healey I found this, not sure if it's the correct Ivy http://announcements.johnstonpress.co.uk/obituaries/banburyguardian-uk/obituary.aspx?page=lifestory &pid=183720881 Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Aug 21, 2017 at 11:22 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Hello Does anyone know when Ivy Healey died? Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Tue Aug 22 18:49:10 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 20:49:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ivy Healey No the wrong Ivy. The Wikipedia entry for Donald Healey has her stats as this (Donald Healey married Ivy Maud James (she died in 1980) on 21 October 1921 and they had three sons.) No picture included. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: i erbs To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: Ahealey help Sent: Tue, Aug 22, 2017 8:41 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ivy Healey I found this, not sure if it's the correct Ivy http://announcements.johnstonpress.co.uk/obituaries/banburyguardian-uk/obituary.aspx?page=lifestory&pid=183720881 Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Aug 21, 2017 at 11:22 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Hello ? Does anyone know when Ivy Healey died? ? Thanks ? Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Tue Aug 22 19:06:53 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 21:06:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <004f01d31afb$8dfba8b0$a9f2fa10$@sympatico.ca> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger garage. There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble. Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock's guidance if you have his tech tips. Set the end-float without any grease in the bearings (and therefore leave the oil seal off). I spray a little WD-40 or equivalent on the bearing as I can't bear to spin them when dry, but the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you need to get no end-play. On first assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the nut while spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag. I like to get quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up. This seats the bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding and subtracting shims until there is no perceptible end-float, but no drag. For those of us who do not do it for a living, be patient and go over it several times until you are convinced you have it right. Then, take it apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it. The nut gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a BT7). I always spin the hub while tightening. This will lock the inner bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression to the swivel axle (I think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous text). The oil seal does not get affected as it is in the hub and turns on the polished boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which would tear it to bits in a few miles). Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: August-22-17 10:43 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shims Couple things: 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me if I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon. 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)* Bob * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course). They must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow. I'm thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...' On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: "Only" somewhat technical packing pieces? Don't under-estimate their importance. When fully tightened with zero end-float, the "tube" created around the stub axle created by putting, inner races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure is not followed, as we all know. If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or creased. Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I can to remove end-float. It should not matter as they are in compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up once with dire consequences. In that application, the engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002". I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the thing to pieces. When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for me. Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of you have an A10 .. Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: August-21-17 6:49 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Shims Hi, With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing the bearings in my MkII's front RHS when winter has set in. (Won't be long!) Anyhow, I've half a pack of unused shims left and there will be others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can't reuse some/all of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones? As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, provided the shims' metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, the old one will still be good to go??? They're only somewhat technical packing pieces??? As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 22 22:30:37 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2017 21:30:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <004f01d31afb$8dfba8b0$a9f2fa10$@sympatico.ca> <008901d31bac$1c0cc480$54264d80$@sympatico.ca> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you are correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I got the 0.003").? Thanks for pointing this out. Bob On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > > For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger > garage. > > There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble. > Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock?s guidance if you have his > tech tips.? Set the end-float without any grease in the bearings (and > therefore leave? the oil seal off).? I spray a little WD-40 or > equivalent on the bearing as I can?t bear to spin them when dry, but > the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you need to get no > end-play. ??On first assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the nut > while spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag. ??I like to get > quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up.? This seats the > bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding and subtracting > shims until there is no perceptible end-float, but no drag.? For those > of us who do not do it for a living, be patient and go over it several > times until you are convinced you have it right.?? Then, take it > apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it.? The nut > gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a BT7).? I > always spin the hub while tightening.? This will lock the inner > bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression to the swivel axle (I > think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous text).? The oil seal > does not get affected as it is in the hub and turns on the polished > boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which would tear it to bits > in a few miles). > > Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos. > > Cheers, > > Mirek > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims > > Couple things: > > 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec is > 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to allow > for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me if I'm > wrong as I'm going into my axles soon. > > 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the > inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin > > 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)* > > Bob > > * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my > Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, > resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with > canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course).? They > must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.? I'm > thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...' > > On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > > ?Only? somewhat technical packing pieces?? Don?t under-estimate > their importance.? When fully tightened with zero end-float,? the > ?tube? created around the stub axle created by putting, inner > races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the > hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of > the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure > is not followed, as we all know. > > If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will > re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or creased.? > Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I can to > remove end-float.? It should not matter as they are in > compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up > once with dire consequences.? In that application,? the > engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used > to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002?. > I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small > amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the > thing to pieces.? When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of > shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for > me.? Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of > you have an A10 ?. > > Mirek > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf > Of *Simon Lachlan > *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM > *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims > > Hi, > > With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing > the bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won?t > be long!) > > Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be > others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all > of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones? > > As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, > provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, > the old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat > technical packing pieces??? > > As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. > > Simon > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Aug 23 03:59:43 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 05:59:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <004f01d31afb$8dfba8b0$a9f2fa10$@sympatico.ca> <008901d31bac$1c0cc480$54264d80$@sympatico.ca> <1382935b-e478-d341-a821-0a2ea67657c2@comcast.net> After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure the end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor with a magnetic base. I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, that sticks out the hub. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you are > correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I got the > 0.003"). Thanks for pointing this out. > > Bob > > > On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >> >> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger >> garage. >> >> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble. >> Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock?s guidance if you have his >> tech tips. Set the end-float without any grease in the bearings (and >> therefore leave the oil seal off). I spray a little WD-40 or >> equivalent on the bearing as I can?t bear to spin them when dry, but >> the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you need to get no >> end-play. On first assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the nut >> while spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag. I like to get >> quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up. This seats the >> bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding and subtracting >> shims until there is no perceptible end-float, but no drag. For those >> of us who do not do it for a living, be patient and go over it several >> times until you are convinced you have it right. Then, take it >> apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it. The nut >> gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a BT7). I >> always spin the hub while tightening. This will lock the inner >> bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression to the swivel axle (I >> think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous text). The oil seal >> does not get affected as it is in the hub and turns on the polished >> boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which would tear it to bits >> in a few miles). >> >> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Mirek >> >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of >> *Bob Spidell >> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM >> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims >> >> Couple things: >> >> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec is >> 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to allow >> for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me if I'm >> wrong as I'm going into my axles soon. >> >> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the >> inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin >> >> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)* >> >> Bob >> >> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my >> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, >> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with >> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course). They >> must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow. I'm >> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...' >> >> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >> >> ?Only? somewhat technical packing pieces? Don?t under-estimate >> their importance. When fully tightened with zero end-float, the >> ?tube? created around the stub axle created by putting, inner >> races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the >> hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of >> the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure >> is not followed, as we all know. >> >> If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will >> re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or creased. >> Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I can to >> remove end-float. It should not matter as they are in >> compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up >> once with dire consequences. In that application, the >> engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used >> to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002?. >> I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small >> amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the >> thing to pieces. When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of >> shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for >> me. Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of >> you have an A10 ?. >> >> Mirek >> >> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >> Of *Simon Lachlan >> *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims >> >> Hi, >> >> With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing >> the bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won?t >> be long!) >> >> Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be >> others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all >> of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones? >> >> As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, >> provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, >> the old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat >> technical packing pieces??? >> >> As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. >> >> Simon >> >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: frt_wheel_brg_preload-0670.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 48595 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: frt_wheel_brg_preload-0667.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 61695 bytes Desc: not available URL: From reinhart.rosner at aon.at Wed Aug 23 04:08:26 2017 From: reinhart.rosner at aon.at (Reinhart Rosner) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 12:08:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes References: Hi Michael, phantastic info as always. When I changed the rear wheel cylinders I used a tool from Girling as pictured, that I bought for a small amount of money and that did a perfect job. Probably with less danger to damage the brake lines than with Vicegrips. >From your experience, does it make any difference when bleeding the brakes if the car stands horizontal or inclined as on stands just under one end of the car? Reinhart Reinhart Rosner 55 AH 100 BN 1 Vienna ? Austria Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Michael Salter Gesendet: Dienstag, 22. August 2017 19:51 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes I know this subject has been frequently discussed but this may just help someone. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2017/08/21/bleeding-austin-healey-4-wheel-drum-brakes/ Michael S -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Girling brake bleeding tool 64947017.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 56506 bytes Desc: not available URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed Aug 23 08:07:49 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 14:07:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Coil polarity References: <1112499917.439274.1503497269535.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I'm about to switch to an alternator and change the car to negative ground.The instructions I have go through the reversal of polarity for the battery, fuel pump and tachometer, but they don't mention the coil leads. Surely they would be?swapped over as well? Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Aug 23 08:41:48 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 10:41:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Coil polarity References: <1112499917.439274.1503497269535.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1112499917.439274.1503497269535@mail.yahoo.com> The coil will work if you don't switch the wires, but not as efficiently. Yes, reverse the wire connections at the coil. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 10:08 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Coil polarity I'm about to switch to an alternator and change the car to negative ground. The instructions I have go through the reversal of polarity for the battery, fuel pump and tachometer, but they don't mention the coil leads. Surely they would be swapped over as well? Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Aug 23 09:05:58 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 08:05:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Coil polarity References: <1112499917.439274.1503497269535.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1112499917.439274.1503497269535@mail.yahoo.com> This would depend on how old your ignition coil is. All new coils are made for Negative ground systems. So if you have a new coil it should be connected with the white feed wire to to the positive side of the coil and the white black wire to the distributor. This would be the same no matter if your car is positive or negative ground. The coils have two windings and they will induce from the primary to the secondary windings when the points open and creating the high voltage spark. If you connect a new coil up backwards it will still work but the energy will be considerable reduced. So no matter what the polarity is on your car the coil should be connected as if the car was negative ground if you have a coil made anywhere in the last 30 years. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Stephen Hutchings Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 7:07 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Coil polarity I'm about to switch to an alternator and change the car to negative ground. The instructions I have go through the reversal of polarity for the battery, fuel pump and tachometer, but they don't mention the coil leads. Surely they would be swapped over as well? Stephen, BJ8 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 23 10:00:36 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 09:00:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <004f01d31afb$8dfba8b0$a9f2fa10$@sympatico.ca> <008901d31bac$1c0cc480$54264d80$@sympatico.ca> <1382935b-e478-d341-a821-0a2ea67657c2@comcast.net> '... I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, that sticks out the hub.' Why?? The 'stock' nut is easy enough to get a socket on. Bob On 8/23/2017 2:59 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure the > end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor with a > magnetic base.? I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle > nut, that sticks out the hub. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you are >> correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I got the >> 0.003").? Thanks for pointing this out. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >>> >>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger >>> garage. >>> >>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble. >>> Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock?s guidance if you have his >>> tech tips.? Set the end-float without any grease in the bearings >>> (and therefore leave? the oil seal off).? I spray a little WD-40 or >>> equivalent on the bearing as I can?t bear to spin them when dry, but >>> the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you need to get no >>> end-play.?? On first assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the >>> nut while spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag.?? I like >>> to get quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up.? This seats >>> the bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding and >>> subtracting shims until there is no perceptible end-float, but no >>> drag.? For those of us who do not do it for a living, be patient and >>> go over it several times until you are convinced you have it >>> right.?? Then, take it apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and >>> re-assemble it.? The nut gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at >>> least for a BT7).? I always spin the hub while tightening.? This >>> will lock the inner bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression >>> to the swivel axle (I think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous >>> text).? The oil seal does not get affected as it is in the hub and >>> turns on the polished boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which >>> would tear it to bits in a few miles). >>> >>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Mirek >>> >>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of >>> *Bob Spidell >>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM >>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims >>> >>> Couple things: >>> >>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec >>> is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to >>> allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me if >>> I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon. >>> >>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the >>> inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin >>> >>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)* >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my >>> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, >>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with >>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course).? They >>> must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.? I'm >>> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...' >>> >>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >>> >>> ??? ?Only? somewhat technical packing pieces?? Don?t under-estimate >>> ??? their importance.? When fully tightened with zero end-float,? the >>> ??? ?tube? created around the stub axle created by putting, inner >>> ??? races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the >>> ??? hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of >>> ??? the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure >>> ??? is not followed, as we all know. >>> >>> ??? If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will >>> ??? re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or >>> creased. ??? Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I >>> can to >>> ??? remove end-float.? It should not matter as they are in >>> ??? compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up >>> ??? once with dire consequences.? In that application,? the >>> ??? engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used >>> ??? to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002?. >>> ??? I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small >>> ??? amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the >>> ??? thing to pieces.? When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of >>> ??? shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for >>> ??? me.? Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of >>> ??? you have an A10 ?. >>> >>> ??? Mirek >>> >>> ??? *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >>> ??? Of *Simon Lachlan >>> ??? *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM >>> ??? *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims >>> >>> ??? Hi, >>> >>> ??? With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing >>> ??? the bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won?t >>> ??? be long!) >>> >>> ??? Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be >>> ??? others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all >>> ??? of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones? >>> >>> ??? As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, >>> ??? provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, >>> ??? the old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat >>> ??? technical packing pieces??? >>> >>> ??? As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. >>> >>> ??? Simon >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> From hgmiller3 at centurylink.net Wed Aug 23 11:11:59 2017 From: hgmiller3 at centurylink.net (Herb Miller) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 12:11:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration question? I am working on the doors of my 1962 BT7 tri-carb, build date Aug. 1961. Should the door inner trim panels be installed first, and the latch and remote lever second, or vise-versa. Or does it not matter? Herb Miller -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Wed Aug 23 11:31:20 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 10:31:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? References: <5A249D98C82C443DA368167AC87E75E5@AllInOne> <056f01d31b00$832275e0$896761a0$@roadrunner.com> k500dsMnapSnAk501drmwg Generally you should try to use as little glycol as you can get away with in your climatic zone; unnecessary glycol reduces the specific heat of the coolant and hence its cooling capacity; I use about 15-20% (Canadian W coast) and to compensate for the reduced corrosion protection I use an additive such as No-Rosion; this gives 5 year interval between coolant changes. rg From: Oudesluys Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2017 1:47 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? There is no need to add Zerex. It may help in extreme conditions (e.g. racing) but if everything is new/rebuild it is a waste of money. Make sure your radiator is rebuild with a fresh and uprated core, preferably with an electric fan, and use an original SMITHS/Remax/AC sleeved thermostat. Kees Oudesluijs Op 22-8-2017 om 6:38 schreef Bruce Steele: Harold, this is a timely discussion for me, as I have a fresh engine. The Zerex site indicates that their Racing Super Coolant needs to me mixed at a ratio of 90% water/10% coolant. Your email suggests you add it to an ethaline glycol mixture. Is that the case? And how are you diluting it? Thanks. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2017 11:47 AM To: 'Paul Leeks' mailto:paull at glasgows.co.uk; 'mailto:healeys at Autox.Team.Net' mailto:healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? Paul, May I suggest a 50/50 mixture of Ethylene Glycol antifreeze and water with the addition of Valvoline?s Zerex Racing Super Coolant additive. The antifreeze brand is not critical but Zerex does make good coolant products. Harold ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Leeks Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2017 6:27 AM To: Subject: [Healeys] Which coolant/antifreeze? Hi all I need to replace the coolant/antifreeze and was wondering if it mattered what type I used? AH Spares has Castrol anti-freeze at ?11 / ltr, whereas Halfords (local high street car store) has OAT Antifreeze Concentrate at ?5 / ltr. I live in temperate Lancashire UK, so I don't need to cope with any temperature extremes. So, can I just use the modern one? Many thanks Paul 100/6 BN4 EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows is a trading style of R Glasgow & Associates Public Relations Limited. Registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. EMAIL DISCLAIMER Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the individual and not necessarily those of Glasgows. It is intended only for the person(s) to whom it is addressed and may contain privileged and/or confidential information. Accordingly, the copying, dissemination, distribution or use of this message to any other person may constitute a breach of civil or criminal law. Please notify the sender immediately if you have received this email by mistake and delete it from your system. Glasgows Limited is registered in England & Wales No. 2257022. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Aug 23 13:57:25 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 15:57:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes References: <008a01d31bf7$c3368ac0$49a3a040$@aon.at> There is one on eBay right now. Since I no longer own a Healey, you guys can have at it!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-GIRLING-BRAKE-PIPE-HOSE-CLAMP-NO-64947077-1950S-JAGUAR-GARAGE-TOOL-KIT-/112526259871?hash=item1a3316769f:g:nYQAAOSw~fpZkrg2 John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Reinhart Rosner Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 6:08 AM To: 'Michael Salter'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes Hi Michael, phantastic info as always. When I changed the rear wheel cylinders I used a tool from Girling as pictured, that I bought for a small amount of money and that did a perfect job. Probably with less danger to damage the brake lines than with Vicegrips. >From your experience, does it make any difference when bleeding the brakes if the car stands horizontal or inclined as on stands just under one end of the car? Reinhart Reinhart Rosner 55 AH 100 BN 1 Vienna ? Austria Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Michael Salter Gesendet: Dienstag, 22. August 2017 19:51 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes I know this subject has been frequently discussed but this may just help someone. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2017/08/21/bleeding-austin-healey-4-wheel-drum-brakes/ Michael S -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed Aug 23 16:16:13 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2017 08:16:13 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes References: <008a01d31bf7$c3368ac0$49a3a040$@aon.at> <01d701d31c4a$0b1fafe0$215f0fa0$@verizon.net> I use these ? cheap too http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3pc-Hose-Pinch-Plier-Brake-Fuel-Line-Vacuum-Radiator-Hose-Line-Clamp-/360486018693?hash=item53eea41e85:g:T~sAAOSwu4BV02u0 From: John Sims Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 5:57 AM To: 'Reinhart Rosner' ; 'Michael Salter' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes There is one on eBay right now. Since I no longer own a Healey, you guys can have at it!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-GIRLING-BRAKE-PIPE-HOSE-CLAMP-NO-64947077-1950S-JAGUAR-GARAGE-TOOL-KIT-/112526259871?hash=item1a3316769f:g:nYQAAOSw~fpZkrg2 John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Reinhart Rosner Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 6:08 AM To: 'Michael Salter'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes Hi Michael, phantastic info as always. When I changed the rear wheel cylinders I used a tool from Girling as pictured, that I bought for a small amount of money and that did a perfect job. Probably with less danger to damage the brake lines than with Vicegrips. >From your experience, does it make any difference when bleeding the brakes if the car stands horizontal or inclined as on stands just under one end of the car? Reinhart Reinhart Rosner 55 AH 100 BN 1 Vienna ? Austria Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Michael Salter Gesendet: Dienstag, 22. August 2017 19:51 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] New Post on my Blog. Bleeding drum brakes I know this subject has been frequently discussed but this may just help someone. http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2017/08/21/bleeding-austin-healey-4-wheel-drum-brakes/ Michael S -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Aug 23 17:13:49 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 19:13:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <004f01d31afb$8dfba8b0$a9f2fa10$@sympatico.ca> <008901d31bac$1c0cc480$54264d80$@sympatico.ca> <1382935b-e478-d341-a821-0a2ea67657c2@comcast.net> <14469f72-9c62-3dfe-aefa-337e5e3f4f59@comcast.net> Bob, The dial test indicator's tip rests on the outside face of the long nut. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/23/2017 12:00 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > '... I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, that > sticks out the hub.' > > Why? The 'stock' nut is easy enough to get a socket on. > > Bob > > > On 8/23/2017 2:59 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: >> After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure the >> end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor with a >> magnetic base. I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle >> nut, that sticks out the hub. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >> On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you are >>> correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I got the >>> 0.003"). Thanks for pointing this out. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >>>> >>>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger >>>> garage. >>>> >>>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble. >>>> Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock?s guidance if you have his >>>> tech tips. Set the end-float without any grease in the bearings >>>> (and therefore leave the oil seal off). I spray a little WD-40 or >>>> equivalent on the bearing as I can?t bear to spin them when dry, but >>>> the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you need to get no >>>> end-play. On first assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the >>>> nut while spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag. I like >>>> to get quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up. This seats >>>> the bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding and >>>> subtracting shims until there is no perceptible end-float, but no >>>> drag. For those of us who do not do it for a living, be patient and >>>> go over it several times until you are convinced you have it >>>> right. Then, take it apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and >>>> re-assemble it. The nut gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at >>>> least for a BT7). I always spin the hub while tightening. This >>>> will lock the inner bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression >>>> to the swivel axle (I think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous >>>> text). The oil seal does not get affected as it is in the hub and >>>> turns on the polished boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which >>>> would tear it to bits in a few miles). >>>> >>>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos. >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> Mirek >>>> >>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of >>>> *Bob Spidell >>>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM >>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims >>>> >>>> Couple things: >>>> >>>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec >>>> is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to >>>> allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me if >>>> I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon. >>>> >>>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the >>>> inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin >>>> >>>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)* >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my >>>> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, >>>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with >>>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course). They >>>> must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow. I'm >>>> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...' >>>> >>>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >>>> >>>> ?Only? somewhat technical packing pieces? Don?t under-estimate >>>> their importance. When fully tightened with zero end-float, the >>>> ?tube? created around the stub axle created by putting, inner >>>> races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the >>>> hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of >>>> the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure >>>> is not followed, as we all know. >>>> >>>> If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will >>>> re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or >>>> creased. Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I >>>> can to >>>> remove end-float. It should not matter as they are in >>>> compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up >>>> once with dire consequences. In that application, the >>>> engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used >>>> to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002?. >>>> I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small >>>> amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the >>>> thing to pieces. When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of >>>> shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for >>>> me. Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of >>>> you have an A10 ?. >>>> >>>> Mirek >>>> >>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >>>> Of *Simon Lachlan >>>> *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM >>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims >>>> >>>> Hi, >>>> >>>> With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing >>>> the bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won?t >>>> be long!) >>>> >>>> Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be >>>> others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all >>>> of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones? >>>> >>>> As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, >>>> provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, >>>> the old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat >>>> technical packing pieces??? >>>> >>>> As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. >>>> >>>> Simon >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 23 17:16:53 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 16:16:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <004f01d31afb$8dfba8b0$a9f2fa10$@sympatico.ca> <008901d31bac$1c0cc480$54264d80$@sympatico.ca> <1382935b-e478-d341-a821-0a2ea67657c2@comcast.net> <14469f72-9c62-3dfe-aefa-337e5e3f4f59@comcast.net> <58e96a2d-1ac3-3f34-6926-13d424e7f9dc@earthlink.net> I'm missing something ... the nut won't move regardless of end float (the hub and rotor will, though). We are talking about the large castellated nut that should be seriously torqued, right? On 8/23/2017 4:13 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Bob, > > The dial test indicator's tip rests on the outside face of the long nut. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 08/23/2017 12:00 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> '... I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, that >> sticks out the hub.' >> >> Why?? The 'stock' nut is easy enough to get a socket on. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 8/23/2017 2:59 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: >>> After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure >>> the end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor with >>> a magnetic base.? I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated >>> axle nut, that sticks out the hub. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Bob Haskell >>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >>> >>> On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you >>>> are correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I >>>> got the 0.003").? Thanks for pointing this out. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> >>>> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >>>>> >>>>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a >>>>> bigger garage. >>>>> >>>>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub >>>>> assemble. Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock?s guidance if >>>>> you have his tech tips.? Set the end-float without any grease in >>>>> the bearings (and therefore leave the oil seal off).? I spray a >>>>> little WD-40 or equivalent on the bearing as I can?t bear to spin >>>>> them when dry, but the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you >>>>> need to get no end-play.?? On first assembly, leave the shims out >>>>> and tighten the nut while spinning the hub until there is >>>>> noticeable drag.?? I like to get quite a bit of drag, but without >>>>> locking it up.? This seats the bearings. Then disassemble and >>>>> reassemble, adding and subtracting shims until there is no >>>>> perceptible end-float, but no drag.? For those of us who do not do >>>>> it for a living, be patient and go over it several times until you >>>>> are convinced you have it right.?? Then, take it apart, pack the >>>>> bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it.? The nut gets >>>>> torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a BT7).? I always >>>>> spin the hub while tightening.? This will lock the inner bearing >>>>> races, spacer, and shims in compression to the swivel axle (I >>>>> think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous text).? The oil seal >>>>> does not get affected as it is in the hub and turns on the >>>>> polished boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which would tear >>>>> it to bits in a few miles). >>>>> >>>>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos. >>>>> >>>>> Cheers, >>>>> >>>>> Mirek >>>>> >>>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >>>>> Of *Bob Spidell >>>>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM >>>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims >>>>> >>>>> Couple things: >>>>> >>>>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec >>>>> is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to >>>>> allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me >>>>> if I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon. >>>>> >>>>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks >>>>> the inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin >>>>> >>>>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)* >>>>> >>>>> Bob >>>>> >>>>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my >>>>> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, >>>>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with >>>>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course).? >>>>> They must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.? I'm >>>>> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...' >>>>> >>>>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >>>>> >>>>> ??? ?Only? somewhat technical packing pieces?? Don?t under-estimate >>>>> ??? their importance.? When fully tightened with zero end-float,? the >>>>> ??? ?tube? created around the stub axle created by putting, inner >>>>> ??? races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the >>>>> ??? hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of >>>>> ??? the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct >>>>> procedure >>>>> ??? is not followed, as we all know. >>>>> >>>>> ??? If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will >>>>> ??? re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or >>>>> creased.???? Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims >>>>> I can to >>>>> ??? remove end-float.? It should not matter as they are in >>>>> ??? compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket >>>>> break up >>>>> ??? once with dire consequences.? In that application, the >>>>> ??? engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used >>>>> ??? to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002?. >>>>> ??? I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small >>>>> ??? amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the >>>>> ??? thing to pieces.? When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of >>>>> ??? shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for >>>>> ??? me.? Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of >>>>> ??? you have an A10 ?. >>>>> >>>>> ??? Mirek >>>>> >>>>> ??? *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >>>>> ??? Of *Simon Lachlan >>>>> ??? *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM >>>>> ??? *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims >>>>> >>>>> ??? Hi, >>>>> >>>>> ??? With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing >>>>> ??? the bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. >>>>> (Won?t >>>>> ??? be long!) >>>>> >>>>> ??? Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be >>>>> ??? others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all >>>>> ??? of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new >>>>> ones? >>>>> >>>>> ??? As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, >>>>> ??? provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, >>>>> ??? the old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat >>>>> ??? technical packing pieces??? >>>>> >>>>> ??? As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. >>>>> >>>>> ??? Simon >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Aug 23 18:25:37 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 20:25:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <004f01d31afb$8dfba8b0$a9f2fa10$@sympatico.ca> <008901d31bac$1c0cc480$54264d80$@sympatico.ca> <1382935b-e478-d341-a821-0a2ea67657c2@comcast.net> <14469f72-9c62-3dfe-aefa-337e5e3f4f59@comcast.net> <58e96a2d-1ac3-3f34-6926-13d424e7f9dc@earthlink.net> Bob, Have a look at the second picture in my original post - the file name ends in 667. It's a mock up of the setup on the bench. The dial indicator is mounted to a magnetic base which is attached to the brake rotor. The tip of the indicator rests on the outside face of the long nut. You're right the nut doesn't move, that's the reference. The indicator will move when you move the brake rotor in and out, indicating the amount of end float. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/23/2017 07:16 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I'm missing something ... the nut won't move regardless of end float > (the hub and rotor will, though). > > We are talking about the large castellated nut that should be seriously > torqued, right? > > > On 8/23/2017 4:13 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: >> Bob, >> >> The dial test indicator's tip rests on the outside face of the long nut. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >> On 08/23/2017 12:00 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> '... I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, that >>> sticks out the hub.' >>> >>> Why? The 'stock' nut is easy enough to get a socket on. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> On 8/23/2017 2:59 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: >>>> After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure >>>> the end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor with >>>> a magnetic base. I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated >>>> axle nut, that sticks out the hub. >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> Bob Haskell >>>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >>>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >>>> >>>> On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>>> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you >>>>> are correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I >>>>> got the 0.003"). Thanks for pointing this out. >>>>> >>>>> Bob >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a >>>>>> bigger garage. >>>>>> >>>>>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub >>>>>> assemble. Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock?s guidance if >>>>>> you have his tech tips. Set the end-float without any grease in >>>>>> the bearings (and therefore leave the oil seal off). I spray a >>>>>> little WD-40 or equivalent on the bearing as I can?t bear to spin >>>>>> them when dry, but the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you >>>>>> need to get no end-play. On first assembly, leave the shims out >>>>>> and tighten the nut while spinning the hub until there is >>>>>> noticeable drag. I like to get quite a bit of drag, but without >>>>>> locking it up. This seats the bearings. Then disassemble and >>>>>> reassemble, adding and subtracting shims until there is no >>>>>> perceptible end-float, but no drag. For those of us who do not do >>>>>> it for a living, be patient and go over it several times until you >>>>>> are convinced you have it right. Then, take it apart, pack the >>>>>> bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it. The nut gets >>>>>> torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a BT7). I always >>>>>> spin the hub while tightening. This will lock the inner bearing >>>>>> races, spacer, and shims in compression to the swivel axle (I >>>>>> think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous text). The oil seal >>>>>> does not get affected as it is in the hub and turns on the >>>>>> polished boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which would tear >>>>>> it to bits in a few miles). >>>>>> >>>>>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos. >>>>>> >>>>>> Cheers, >>>>>> >>>>>> Mirek >>>>>> >>>>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >>>>>> Of *Bob Spidell >>>>>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM >>>>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims >>>>>> >>>>>> Couple things: >>>>>> >>>>>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec >>>>>> is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to >>>>>> allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me >>>>>> if I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon. >>>>>> >>>>>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks >>>>>> the inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin >>>>>> >>>>>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)* >>>>>> >>>>>> Bob >>>>>> >>>>>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my >>>>>> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, >>>>>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with >>>>>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course). They >>>>>> must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow. I'm >>>>>> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...' >>>>>> >>>>>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> ?Only? somewhat technical packing pieces? Don?t under-estimate >>>>>> their importance. When fully tightened with zero end-float, the >>>>>> ?tube? created around the stub axle created by putting, inner >>>>>> races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the >>>>>> hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of >>>>>> the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct >>>>>> procedure >>>>>> is not followed, as we all know. >>>>>> >>>>>> If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will >>>>>> re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or >>>>>> creased. Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims >>>>>> I can to >>>>>> remove end-float. It should not matter as they are in >>>>>> compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket >>>>>> break up >>>>>> once with dire consequences. In that application, the >>>>>> engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used >>>>>> to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002?. >>>>>> I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small >>>>>> amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the >>>>>> thing to pieces. When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of >>>>>> shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for >>>>>> me. Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of >>>>>> you have an A10 ?. >>>>>> >>>>>> Mirek >>>>>> >>>>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf >>>>>> Of *Simon Lachlan >>>>>> *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM >>>>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims >>>>>> >>>>>> Hi, >>>>>> >>>>>> With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing >>>>>> the bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. >>>>>> (Won?t >>>>>> be long!) >>>>>> >>>>>> Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be >>>>>> others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse some/all >>>>>> of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new >>>>>> ones? >>>>>> >>>>>> As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, >>>>>> provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place, >>>>>> the old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat >>>>>> technical packing pieces??? >>>>>> >>>>>> As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. >>>>>> >>>>>> Simon >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>> >>> >> > > From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Aug 23 19:02:55 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2017 18:02:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shims References: <000001d31a6b$137d2db0$3a778910$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <004f01d31afb$8dfba8b0$a9f2fa10$@sympatico.ca> <008901d31bac$1c0cc480$54264d80$@sympatico.ca> <1382935b-e478-d341-a821-0a2ea67657c2@comcast.net> <14469f72-9c62-3dfe-aefa-337e5e3f4f59@comcast.net> <58e96a2d-1ac3-3f34-6926-13d424e7f9dc@earthlink.net> Ah, got it.? Looks like I didn't get the original photos; at least, it's not in my mail folders.? Thanks for the explanation (and patience). Bob On 8/23/2017 5:25 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Bob, > > Have a look at the second picture in my original post - the file name > ends in 667.? It's a mock up of the setup on the bench.? The dial > indicator is mounted to a magnetic base which is attached to the brake > rotor.? The tip of the indicator rests on the outside face of the long > nut.? You're right the nut doesn't move, that's the reference.? The > indicator will move when you move the brake rotor in and out, > indicating the amount of end float. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 08/23/2017 07:16 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> I'm missing something ... the nut won't move regardless of end float >> (the hub and rotor will, though). >> >> We are talking about the large castellated nut that should be >> seriously torqued, right? >> >> >> On 8/23/2017 4:13 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: >>> Bob, >>> >>> The dial test indicator's tip rests on the outside face of the long >>> nut. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Bob Haskell >>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >>> >>> On 08/23/2017 12:00 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>> '... I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, that >>>> sticks out the hub.' >>>> >>>> Why?? The 'stock' nut is easy enough to get a socket on. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> >>>> On 8/23/2017 2:59 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: >>>>> After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure >>>>> the end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor >>>>> with a magnetic base.? I made a long "nut", replacing the >>>>> castellated axle nut, that sticks out the hub. >>>>> >>>>> Cheers, >>>>> >>>>> Bob Haskell >>>>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >>>>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >>>>> >>>>> On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>>>> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you >>>>>> are correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I >>>>>> got the 0.003").? Thanks for pointing this out. >>>>>> >>>>>> Bob >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a >>>>>>> bigger garage. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub >>>>>>> assemble. Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock?s guidance >>>>>>> if you have his tech tips.? Set the end-float without any grease >>>>>>> in the bearings (and therefore leave the oil seal off).? I spray >>>>>>> a little WD-40 or equivalent on the bearing as I can?t bear to >>>>>>> spin them when dry, but the WD-40 does not interfere with the >>>>>>> feel you need to get no end-play.?? On first assembly, leave the >>>>>>> shims out and tighten the nut while spinning the hub until there >>>>>>> is noticeable drag.?? I like to get quite a bit of drag, but >>>>>>> without locking it up.? This seats the bearings. Then >>>>>>> disassemble and reassemble, adding and subtracting shims until >>>>>>> there is no perceptible end-float, but no drag.? For those of us >>>>>>> who do not do it for a living, be patient and go over it several >>>>>>> times until you are convinced you have it right.?? Then, take it >>>>>>> apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it.? >>>>>>> The nut gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a >>>>>>> BT7).? I always spin the hub while tightening.? This will lock >>>>>>> the inner bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression to the >>>>>>> swivel axle (I think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous >>>>>>> text). The oil seal does not get affected as it is in the hub >>>>>>> and turns on the polished boss on the swivel axle, not the >>>>>>> spacer (which would tear it to bits in a few miles). >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Cheers, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Mirek >>>>>>> >>>>>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On >>>>>>> Behalf Of *Bob Spidell >>>>>>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM >>>>>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>>>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Couple things: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the >>>>>>> spec is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub >>>>>>> axles, to allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please >>>>>>> correct me if I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks >>>>>>> the inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin >>>>>>> >>>>>>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)* >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Bob >>>>>>> >>>>>>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in >>>>>>> my Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, >>>>>>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with >>>>>>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course). >>>>>>> They must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.? >>>>>>> I'm thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...' >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ??? ?Only? somewhat technical packing pieces?? Don?t under-estimate >>>>>>> ??? their importance.? When fully tightened with zero >>>>>>> end-float,? the >>>>>>> ??? ?tube? created around the stub axle created by putting, inner >>>>>>> ??? races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression >>>>>>> against the >>>>>>> ??? hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of >>>>>>> ??? the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct >>>>>>> procedure >>>>>>> ??? is not followed, as we all know. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ??? If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I >>>>>>> will >>>>>>> ??? re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or >>>>>>> creased.???? Also, I try to use the combination of thickest >>>>>>> shims I can to >>>>>>> ??? remove end-float.? It should not matter as they are in >>>>>>> ??? compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket >>>>>>> break up >>>>>>> ??? once with dire consequences.? In that application, the >>>>>>> ??? engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were >>>>>>> used >>>>>>> ??? to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was >>>>>>> 0.002?. >>>>>>> ??? I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small >>>>>>> ??? amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the >>>>>>> ??? thing to pieces.? When I rebuild it I worked out the >>>>>>> thickness of >>>>>>> ??? shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick >>>>>>> shim for >>>>>>> ??? me.? Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of >>>>>>> ??? you have an A10 ?. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ??? Mirek >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ??? *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On >>>>>>> Behalf >>>>>>> ??? Of *Simon Lachlan >>>>>>> ??? *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM >>>>>>> ??? *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ??? Hi, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ??? With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be >>>>>>> replacing >>>>>>> ??? the bearings in my MkII?s front RHS when winter has set in. >>>>>>> (Won?t >>>>>>> ??? be long!) >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ??? Anyhow, I?ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be >>>>>>> ??? others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can?t reuse >>>>>>> some/all >>>>>>> ??? of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new >>>>>>> ones? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ??? As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so, >>>>>>> ??? provided the shims? metallurgy(?) was correct in the first >>>>>>> place, >>>>>>> ??? the old one will still be good to go??? They?re only somewhat >>>>>>> ??? technical packing pieces??? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ??? As ever, I stand ready to be corrected. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> ??? Simon >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >> >> > From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 24 08:56:32 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2017 07:56:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration question? References: <020001d31c32$efb586b0$cf209410$@centurylink.net> Trim panels are installed after the door hardware, except for the inner handle and window anchor point at the strike side. John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herb Miller Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 10:12 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Restoration question? I am working on the doors of my 1962 BT7 tri-carb, build date Aug. 1961. Should the door inner trim panels be installed first, and the latch and remote lever second, or vise-versa. Or does it not matter? Herb Miller -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hgmiller3 at centurylink.net Thu Aug 24 09:53:12 2017 From: hgmiller3 at centurylink.net (Herb Miller) Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2017 10:53:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Restoration question? References: <020001d31c32$efb586b0$cf209410$@centurylink.net> <000001d31ce9$2d2937b0$877ba710$@sbcglobal.net> Thank you Herb Miller From: John Spaur [mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 9:57 AM To: 'Herb Miller'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Restoration question? Trim panels are installed after the door hardware, except for the inner handle and window anchor point at the strike side. John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herb Miller Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2017 10:12 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Restoration question? I am working on the doors of my 1962 BT7 tri-carb, build date Aug. 1961. Should the door inner trim panels be installed first, and the latch and remote lever second, or vise-versa. Or does it not matter? Herb Miller Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Thu Aug 24 15:13:55 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2017 17:13:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tool for removing SU carbs Having just received the Sept. 2017 issue of Healey Marque Magazine, I quickly read the Technical Service Bulletin article Big Healey, Big Carburetors. I will be mounting my rebuilt carbs in the next week or two. On page 39 it show a picture of "Special tools required for nut removal" (see attached). Although I have a large supply of the tool on the left, and the tool on the right is always on my workbench, I am in desperate of need of the tool in the middle. Does anyone have a part number and source that I might be able to purchase this wrench. Thanks in advance for your help. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Special Tools.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 60826 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Thu Aug 24 16:05:41 2017 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2017 22:05:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Long term restoration References: <915487780.1808662.1503612341762.ref@mail.yahoo.com> sent a picture of Preliminary, first time, test 1 of shroud fitting on my 100-6 First time the shroud has been "on" the frame in 37 years Jim -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Healey Shroud test 1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1119070 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Aug 25 01:33:39 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 09:33:39 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tool for removing SU carbs References: <005301d31d1d$e5028100$af078300$@nc.rr.com> Any decent tool store will have a collection of various sizes of this wrench in closed ended form, it is called a starter wrench around here. It is easy enough to grind the slot in one end. Kees Oudesluijs Op 24-8-2017 om 23:13 schreef Bob Simmen: > > Having just received the Sept. 2017 issue of Healey Marque Magazine, I > quickly read the Technical Service Bulletin article Big Healey, Big > Carburetors.? I will be mounting my rebuilt carbs in the next week or > two.? On page 39 it show a picture of ?Special tools required for nut > removal? (see attached).? Although I have a large supply of the tool > on the left, and the tool on the right is always on my workbench, I am > in desperate of need of the tool in the middle.? Does anyone have a > part number and source that I might be able to purchase this wrench. > > Thanks in advance for your help. > > Bob > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Fri Aug 25 06:19:44 2017 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 08:19:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tool for removing SU carbs References: <005301d31d1d$e5028100$af078300$@nc.rr.com> Bob, On my BJ8, I can work my arm and wrist in the shape of the middle tool and get under the carbs from the outside to reach the inside bolts. It's fiddly, but doable. - Tom On Thu, Aug 24, 2017 at 5:13 PM, Bob Simmen wrote: > Having just received the Sept. 2017 issue of Healey Marque Magazine, I > quickly read the Technical Service Bulletin article Big Healey, Big > Carburetors. I will be mounting my rebuilt carbs in the next week or two. > On page 39 it show a picture of ?Special tools required for nut removal? > (see attached). Although I have a large supply of the tool on the left, > and the tool on the right is always on my workbench, I am in desperate of > need of the tool in the middle. Does anyone have a part number and source > that I might be able to purchase this wrench. > > > > Thanks in advance for your help. > > > > Bob > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Aug 25 16:36:47 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 22:36:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Stub axle thread? References: <1344770596.2553904.1503700607678.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone know what thread size for the stub axle and nut?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Aug 25 16:46:39 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 15:46:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tool for removing SU carbs References: <005301d31d1d$e5028100$af078300$@nc.rr.com> Why grind a slot in the end?? I can see grinding the whole box end down, but there's no cables or wires to circumvent. Bob On 8/25/2017 12:33 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Any decent tool store will have a collection of various sizes of this > wrench in closed ended form, it is called a starter wrench around > here. It is easy enough to grind the slot in one end. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 24-8-2017 om 23:13 schreef Bob Simmen: >> >> Having just received the Sept. 2017 issue of Healey Marque Magazine, >> I quickly read the Technical Service Bulletin article Big Healey, Big >> Carburetors.? I will be mounting my rebuilt carbs in the next week or >> two. On page 39 it show a picture of ?Special tools required for nut >> removal? (see attached).? Although I have a large supply of the tool >> on the left, and the tool on the right is always on my workbench, I >> am in desperate of need of the tool in the middle.? Does anyone have >> a part number and source that I might be able to purchase this wrench. >> >> Thanks in advance for your help. >> >> Bob >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Aug 25 17:42:58 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 19:42:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Stub axle thread? References: <1344770596.2553904.1503700607678.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1344770596.2553904.1503700607678@mail.yahoo.com> Mike, Front axle threads: 11/16" - 16 TPI Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/25/2017 06:36 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Does anyone know what thread size for the stub axle and nut? > Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Fri Aug 25 18:18:47 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2017 10:18:47 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb G'day all Anyone familiar with SU HD carbs? I'm using a HD6 (one of a spare pair form my Daimler 2.5 litre V8) on my Shorrock supercharged MG TC motor. I have put a new kit, including jet/diaphragm in it. I now have the motor running, but I have fuel dripping out of the carb choke when it's not running. The float level is OK and the needle valve is operating. I'm familiar with H type carbs, but not these. Any ideas? Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Holden V6 MG TC Shorrock blown -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Aug 25 18:26:40 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 17:26:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tool for removing SU carbs References: <005301d31d1d$e5028100$af078300$@nc.rr.com> <607ef1bd-ff9b-ce52-c476-26e06c5373b1@comcast.net> When you back off the nut there is not enough room to get the wrench off of the nut. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Aug 25, 2017 at 3:46 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Why grind a slot in the end? I can see grinding the whole box end down, > but there's no cables or wires to circumvent. > > Bob > > On 8/25/2017 12:33 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > Any decent tool store will have a collection of various sizes of this > wrench in closed ended form, it is called a starter wrench around here. It > is easy enough to grind the slot in one end. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 24-8-2017 om 23:13 schreef Bob Simmen: > > Having just received the Sept. 2017 issue of Healey Marque Magazine, I > quickly read the Technical Service Bulletin article Big Healey, Big > Carburetors. I will be mounting my rebuilt carbs in the next week or two. > On page 39 it show a picture of ?Special tools required for nut removal? > (see attached). Although I have a large supply of the tool on the left, > and the tool on the right is always on my workbench, I am in desperate of > need of the tool in the middle. Does anyone have a part number and source > that I might be able to purchase this wrench. > > > > Thanks in advance for your help. > > > > Bob > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Aug 25 19:11:36 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2017 01:11:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Splined hub bearings References: <66223362.2612494.1503709896363.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Is the a specific bearing seating set, size I can buy to seat the outer races of the tapered bearings in the splined hub? ?Maybe a cheap alternative like aluminum tubing. ?All parts are new and this will be the first time I assemble spline hub assemblies.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Fri Aug 25 19:38:46 2017 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Engl) Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 19:38:46 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] SU HD carb References: <28A9E7899C424E62814D3B787D1B53D1@Notebook> Hi Peter I'm having HD car trouble myself so have been studying every manual I can get my hands on. Even so, not sure if I can help. One question. When you say fuel is leaking from the choke, is that from the jet on the inside of the carb at the throat, or from the bottom of the carb body itself? I'm thinking of the HD's without the external automatic enrichment device. Bob England > On Aug 25, 2017, at 6:18 PM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > > G'day all > > Anyone familiar with SU HD carbs? I'm using a HD6 (one of a spare pair form my Daimler 2.5 litre V8) on my Shorrock supercharged MG TC motor. I have put a new kit, including jet/diaphragm in it. I now have the motor running, but I have fuel dripping out of the carb choke when it's not running. The float level is OK and the needle valve is operating. I'm familiar with H type carbs, but not these. Any ideas? > > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > BN1 Holden V6 > MG TC Shorrock blown > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/engl at accesscomm.ca > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Fri Aug 25 20:24:29 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 19:24:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tool for removing SU carbs References: <005301d31d1d$e5028100$af078300$@nc.rr.com> l9Xfds843vNWZl9XgdBohR https://store.snapon.com/Hand-Tools-C700010.aspx The wrench you are looking for should be available through the link above. _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 12:34 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tool for removing SU carbs Any decent tool store will have a collection of various sizes of this wrench in closed ended form, it is called a starter wrench around here. It is easy enough to grind the slot in one end. Kees Oudesluijs Op 24-8-2017 om 23:13 schreef Bob Simmen: Having just received the Sept. 2017 issue of Healey Marque Magazine, I quickly read the Technical Service Bulletin article Big Healey, Big Carburetors. I will be mounting my rebuilt carbs in the next week or two. On page 39 it show a picture of "Special tools required for nut removal" (see attached). Although I have a large supply of the tool on the left, and the tool on the right is always on my workbench, I am in desperate of need of the tool in the middle. Does anyone have a part number and source that I might be able to purchase this wrench. Thanks in advance for your help. Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Fri Aug 25 20:39:53 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 22:39:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Splined hub bearings References: <66223362.2612494.1503709896363.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <66223362.2612494.1503709896363@mail.yahoo.com> It is so long since I replaced those I can?t recall how I did it, but I have more recently installed interference fit bearings in a number of old motorbike engine cases. I simply put the bearing in the freezer for an hour or two and warm the cases, preferably in the oven, but you can do it gently with a propane torch. The bearing (or outer race in your case) will drop right in. Get it seated quickly though, as the temperatures equalize quickly. For some applications I have also had a local machinist reduce the diameter of an old bearing slightly to use to tap home tight bearings. I prefer the heating/cooling as it takes any hammering out of the operation. Getting the inside of the hub and the outside of the bearing scrupulously clean goes without question. Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: August-25-17 9:12 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Splined hub bearings Is the a specific bearing seating set, size I can buy to seat the outer races of the tapered bearings in the splined hub? Maybe a cheap alternative like aluminum tubing. All parts are new and this will be the first time I assemble spline hub assemblies. Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Aug 25 22:20:33 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 21:20:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Splined hub bearings References: <66223362.2612494.1503709896363.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <66223362.2612494.1503709896363@mail.yahoo.com> Use the old race. John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 6:12 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Splined hub bearings Is the a specific bearing seating set, size I can buy to seat the outer races of the tapered bearings in the splined hub? Maybe a cheap alternative like aluminum tubing. All parts are new and this will be the first time I assemble spline hub assemblies. Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 26 00:07:12 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 25 Aug 2017 23:07:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tool for removing SU carbs References: <005301d31d1d$e5028100$af078300$@nc.rr.com> Google "half moon wrench" or similar terms. You may need to cut the open end. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Simmen Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 2:14 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Tool for removing SU carbs Having just received the Sept. 2017 issue of Healey Marque Magazine, I quickly read the Technical Service Bulletin article Big Healey, Big Carburetors. I will be mounting my rebuilt carbs in the next week or two. On page 39 it show a picture of "Special tools required for nut removal" (see attached). Although I have a large supply of the tool on the left, and the tool on the right is always on my workbench, I am in desperate of need of the tool in the middle. Does anyone have a part number and source that I might be able to purchase this wrench. Thanks in advance for your help. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rsimmen at nc.rr.com Sat Aug 26 08:40:04 2017 From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen) Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2017 10:40:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - Coil Mounting for generator to alternator conversion 1967 BJ8 Converting from the generator to an alternator. Does anyone have any good suggestions and/or pictures on how to mount the coil? Thanks in advance!!!! Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sat Aug 26 10:16:05 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2017 16:16:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] More on alternator conversion References: <969546158.1441528.1503764165868.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I'm using the AH Spares kit to convert to alternator. The instructions say to connect the new Lucar connectors to the brown and yellow and the brown and green wires which were connected to the generator. The thing is, they say to connect the large connector to the brown and green wire (which was on a small connector, and is a smaller gauge of wire), and the brown and yellow to the small connector (previously having a larger connector and a larger gauge of wire).Now, because I'm going to negative ground, is the load on the wires to the alternator reversed as well- hence the swapping of connector sizes.Hope this is clear- it just feels strange putting the big connector on the small wire, and vice versa. ThanksStephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sat Aug 26 10:28:04 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com) Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2017 12:28:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - Coil Mounting for generator to alternator conversion Hi Bob, I bought two flat right angle brackets about 3/12" long. These were attached to the lower horn mounting bolts, and then stuck out at a right angle just where I wanted to mount the coil. I had some luck, in that the holes already in the bracket matched up with where I wanted them to be. Good luck, Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1012.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 437885 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPad From fredwescoe at gmail.com Sat Aug 26 13:57:00 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2017 15:57:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - Coil Mounting for generator to alternator conversion References: <00f601d31e79$34d4e540$9e7eafc0$@nc.rr.com> This is the original bracket on top of the alternator with a longer bolt to tighten it down. No need to reinvent the wheel. On Aug 26, 2017 10:44 AM, "Bob Simmen" wrote: > 1967 BJ8 > > > > Converting from the generator to an alternator. > > Does anyone have any good suggestions and/or pictures on how to mount the > coil? > > > > Thanks in advance!!!! > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170826_155045.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2793998 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170826_155249.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2516053 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Sat Aug 26 19:19:26 2017 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor) Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2017 19:19:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 1961 Works Rally car for sale http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/24122/lot/225/ So far out of my league. Reading the fine print I find that the buyer's premium alone is more than my car is worth. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sat Aug 26 23:19:22 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2017 22:19:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A_Aussie_Healey?= anybody know the story on all these healeys with right hand drive in a Boeing parking lot. > -------Original Message------- > From: Kelly Tourek > To: Jim Shope , Sandy Lashua > Subject: Aussie Healey > Sent: Aug 26 '17 13:40 > > I am up in WA and decided to go to a Boeing Tour and came across 13 Healeys. Haven't found the owners. All are right hand drive. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > KBTourek -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_6803.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 136790 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: IMG_6813.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 129902 bytes Desc: not available URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sat Aug 26 23:55:08 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 15:55:08 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Aussie Healey References: <20170827051922.25213.qmail@server278.com> ...AH 1966 is a wide bodied BJ8 owned by our Queensland member Neil Tregea -----Original Message----- From: healeymanjim Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 3:19 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Aussie Healey anybody know the story on all these healeys with right hand drive in a Boeing parking lot. > -------Original Message------- > From: Kelly Tourek > To: Jim Shope , Sandy Lashua > > Subject: Aussie Healey > Sent: Aug 26 '17 13:40 > > I am up in WA and decided to go to a Boeing Tour and came across 13 > Healeys. Haven't found the owners. All are right hand drive. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > KBTourek _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au From bgdrab at eastlink.ca Sun Aug 27 00:40:34 2017 From: bgdrab at eastlink.ca (Brian Drab) Date: Sat, 26 Aug 2017 23:40:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Aussie Healey References: <20170827051922.25213.qmail@server278.com> Those cars belong to a group of Aussies who are touring the North West prior to heading down to Monterey for Healey Week. They had their cars shipped over from Australia. They are in Vancouver B.C. this weekend where a get together is planned for Sunday night with members of the AHOABC. Brian Drab AHOABC -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim Sent: August 26, 2017 10:19 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Aussie Healey anybody know the story on all these healeys with right hand drive in a Boeing parking lot. > -------Original Message------- > From: Kelly Tourek > To: Jim Shope , Sandy Lashua > Subject: Aussie Healey > Sent: Aug 26 '17 13:40 > > I am up in WA and decided to go to a Boeing Tour and came across 13 Healeys. Haven't found the owners. All are right hand drive. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > KBTourek From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Aug 27 00:51:21 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 06:51:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Off topic part FS. References: <1036032710.3140774.1503816681984.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Going through my parts stash today and found a balanced Miata drive shaft for a long past project. ?I have no need for it. ?Anyone want it? ?$50 plus shipping.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eorr at cogeco.ca Sun Aug 27 07:03:40 2017 From: eorr at cogeco.ca (Ed Orr) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 09:03:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 - Coil Mounting for generator to alternatorconversion References: <00f601d31e79$34d4e540$9e7eafc0$@nc.rr.com> This is what I did , used two 2 1/4?OD washers 7/8?ID (might be able to find with smaller ID) then tack welded two smaller washers to bring the ID down to size .Mounted these big washers back to back as in the picture . Drilled and tapped a 1/4? hole to screw the coil brkt into , large washer is quite thick to allow for a few fine threads . Converting from the generator to an alternator. Does anyone have any good suggestions and/or pictures on how to mount the coil? Thanks in advance!!!! Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From djg at gavinassociates.com Sun Aug 27 09:23:32 2017 From: djg at gavinassociates.com (Dennis Gavin) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 15:23:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Windshield Wipers Healey Gurus, My 63 BJ7 wipers are giving me trouble and not sure where to start. They now seem off the track, won't park and only wipe about 30 degrees of windshield. Now progressed to attempting to wipe the bonnet? Suggestions from this most valuable group sincerely appreciated. djg Dennis Gavin Gavin Associates Inc Office: (508)-381-1090 Fax: (508)-381-1095 www.GavinAssociates.com [Gavin Associates Logo] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 7636 bytes Desc: image001.gif URL: From ttrotter2 at triad.rr.com Sun Aug 27 09:39:28 2017 From: ttrotter2 at triad.rr.com (ttrotter2) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 11:39:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com Yes. Offline for me also. Tom Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Michael Salter
Date:08/27/2017 10:52 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com
ahexp.com seems to be off line.... can anyone confirm? M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Aug 27 09:43:15 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 11:43:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: Mike, I can confirm that I have been unable to get on ahexp this morning. I get "DB error: connect failed". It would be nice to know what DB means, and why the connect failed -- is it ahexp, or me (now I know!)? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 10:53 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com ahexp.com seems to be off line.... can anyone confirm? M Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyron at yahoo.com Sun Aug 27 09:39:47 2017 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 15:39:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: This is what I get: ?"DB_DataObject Error: Connect failed, turn on debugging to 5 see why" ?Guess your right. ?They are off line. From: Michael Salter To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017, 11:19:39 AM EDTSubject: [Healeys] ahexp.com ahexp.com seems to be off line.... can anyone confirm? M _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From amalin at mac.com Sun Aug 27 10:02:20 2017 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 12:02:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: M, It?s not offline, it's broke. Got the following error: DB_DataObject Error: Connect failed, turn on debugging to 5 see why Al Malin Tricarb > On Aug 27, 2017, at 10:52 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > ahexp.com seems to be off line.... > can anyone confirm? > > M > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com > From jnew at hazelden.ca Sun Aug 27 10:21:43 2017 From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 12:21:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: Michael, Works for me. And thanks for asking; now I have another Healey site to look at! John P. New London, Ontario, Canada '67 BJ8 On August 27, 2017 10:52:42 AM Michael Salter wrote: ahexp.com seems to be off line.... can anyone confirm? M From michael.salter at gmail.com Sun Aug 27 10:25:47 2017 From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 16:25:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: , <2521506.vqQMP45Kdj@johnpc> Seems to be up again. ? ________________________________ From: John P. New Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 12:21:43 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Michael Salter Subject: Re: [Healeys] ahexp.com Michael, Works for me. And thanks for asking; now I have another Healey site to look at! John P. New London, Ontario, Canada '67 BJ8 On August 27, 2017 10:52:42 AM Michael Salter wrote: ahexp.com seems to be off line.... can anyone confirm? M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Sun Aug 27 10:55:33 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 12:55:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Windshield Wipers References: Dennis: The 'partial basket case' BJ-8 I bought did the same thing. The P.O. partially assembled the car including the wiper assembly, dash, windscreen. When I went to use it, it did the same thing. After much investigation, it turns out the wiper motor has a built-in parking adjustment in the form of a rotating housing. See attached picture of a similar wiper motor. The round part with the wire going to it rotates when the four hex screws are loosened. If the park adjustment is far enough off, it will try to wipe down on to the bonnet. It turned out that on my car the three screws securing the housing had loosened [or never tightened by someone in the past]. I suspect the housing vibrated to a position where the wipers no longer wiped just the windscreen. My advice is to kneel next to the car or get under the dash and see if you can rotate the adjuster - it's on the top of the wiper motor housing on my BJ-8. If so, then you should be able to rotate it back to where it needs to be. Securing all three screws while the unit is on the car appears to be darn near impossible. I will leave it to others to come up with a way to secure all three without removing the wiper motor assembly, which is a lot of work. Al Fuller '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Gavin Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 11:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Windshield Wipers Healey Gurus, My 63 BJ7 wipers are giving me trouble and not sure where to start. They now seem off the track, won't park and only wipe about 30 degrees of windshield. Now progressed to attempting to wipe the bonnet? Suggestions from this most valuable group sincerely appreciated. djg Dennis Gavin Gavin Associates Inc Office: (508)-381-1090 Fax: (508)-381-1095 www.GavinAssociates.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.gif Type: image/gif Size: 7636 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Lucas Wiper.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 125801 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sun Aug 27 11:17:43 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 07:17:43 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Aug 27 11:38:08 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 13:38:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: <04dc01d31f4b$332ea6e0$998bf4a0$@rr.com> Steve, DB: probably database. It isn't you. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/27/2017 11:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Mike, I can confirm that I have been unable to get on ahexp this > morning. I get "DB error: connect failed". It would be nice to know > what DB means, and why the connect failed -- is it ahexp, or me (now I > know!)? > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael Salter > *Sent:* Sunday, August 27, 2017 10:53 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] ahexp.com > > ahexp.com seems to be off line.... > > can anyone confirm? > > M > > Image removed by sender. > > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Aug 27 11:53:06 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 13:53:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Windshield Wipers References: Assuming that you haven't been working on the motor or the wiper actuating links, the most likely cause and the easiest to check would be that the wipers are slipping on the splined wiper shafts, but I would expect that to begin with only one wiper, not both at the same time. Make sure the wipers are fully seated on the shaft. See if you can turn the wipers on their shafts with the wiper motor off. If you can, there's your problem. If the splines are O.K., then I would suspect a problem with the actuating rack or gears in the wheelboxes, finally, the parking mechanism in the motor. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Gavin Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 11:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Windshield Wipers Healey Gurus, My 63 BJ7 wipers are giving me trouble and not sure where to start. They now seem off the track, won't park and only wipe about 30 degrees of windshield. Now progressed to attempting to wipe the bonnet? Suggestions from this most valuable group sincerely appreciated. djg Dennis Gavin Gavin Associates Inc Office: (508)-381-1090 Fax: (508)-381-1095 Djg at Gavinassociates.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 27 12:01:51 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 11:01:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front Rotor/Hub Question I'll be installing new rotors and pads on my BJ8's front disks, and I have the kind of question only a really anal-retentive person would ask: Do the bolts that affix the hub to the rotor go in bolt head outside, or inside; i.e. with the bolt head, or nut, against the hub flange?? It seems like the bolt head should be outside, but when I bought the car the nuts were on the outside. Bob From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Aug 27 12:52:40 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 11:52:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: <04dc01d31f4b$332ea6e0$998bf4a0$@rr.com> "DB" = DataBase.? The web server needs to connect to a database server--can be on same machine or another, located anywhere--in order to retrieve raw data (text, images, etc.).? The web server needs to 'log on'--i.e. connect--to the DB server, just like you have to log on to your email server.? The DB server is actually a separate application (computer program), so the DB server can be down but the web server still functioning; hence the returned error message.? Usually, the DB server has died for some reason, and needs to be restarted either automatically or by meat sack intervention. FWIW, I was just able to connect to ahexp.com; keeping in mind our List responses are usually delayed quite a bit. Bob On 8/27/2017 8:43 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > > Mike, I can confirm that I have been unable to get on ahexp this > morning.? I get "DB error: connect failed".? It would be nice to know > what DB means, and why the connect failed -- is it ahexp, or me (now I > know!)? > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael Salter > *Sent:* Sunday, August 27, 2017 10:53 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] ahexp.com > > ahexp.com seems to be off line.... > > can anyone confirm? > > M > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ttrotter2 at triad.rr.com Sun Aug 27 12:56:33 2017 From: ttrotter2 at triad.rr.com (ttrotter2) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 14:56:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com Apparently it is now fixed. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Al Malin
Date:08/27/2017 12:02 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Michael Salter
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ahexp.com
M, It?s not offline, it's broke. Got the following error: DB_DataObject Error: Connect failed, turn on debugging to 5 see why Al Malin Tricarb > On Aug 27, 2017, at 10:52 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > ahexp.com seems to be off line.... > can anyone confirm? > > M > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Aug 27 12:57:04 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 18:57:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: , <04dc01d31f4b$332ea6e0$998bf4a0$@rr.com> I just got on it about 10 minutes ago and it was working. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of BJ8Healeys Sent: August 27, 2017 3:43 PM To: 'Michael Salter'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] ahexp.com Mike, I can confirm that I have been unable to get on ahexp this morning. I get "DB error: connect failed". It would be nice to know what DB means, and why the connect failed -- is it ahexp, or me (now I know!)? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 10:53 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com ahexp.com seems to be off line.... [http://www.ahexp.com/theme/healey/logo.png] The Austin-Healey Experience : Your Online Car Club ahexp.com Online Austin Healey 3000, Sprite, 100 & 100-6 Owners Club : Forum, Photos, Registry, Cars For Sale, Library, Free Buy & Sell, Repair, Restoration, Events, Shows ... can anyone confirm? M [Image removed by sender.] Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Aug 27 13:04:24 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 12:04:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: <04dc01d31f4b$332ea6e0$998bf4a0$@rr.com> Working now noon PST Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Aug 27, 2017 10:44 AM, "BJ8Healeys" wrote: > Mike, I can confirm that I have been unable to get on ahexp this morning. > I get "DB error: connect failed". It would be nice to know what DB means, > and why the connect failed -- is it ahexp, or me (now I know!)? > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael > Salter > *Sent:* Sunday, August 27, 2017 10:53 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] ahexp.com > > > > ahexp.com seems to be off line.... > > can anyone confirm? > > M > > > > [image: Image removed by sender.] > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Aug 27 13:45:35 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 15:45:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: <00632752-5BF2-4C5E-904B-3EB222BDA729@mac.com> I got in on the first try. I had never heard of this site before. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Malin Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 12:02 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] ahexp.com M, It s not offline, it's broke. Got the following error: DB_DataObject Error: Connect failed, turn on debugging to 5 see why Al Malin Tricarb > On Aug 27, 2017, at 10:52 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > ahexp.com seems to be off line.... > can anyone confirm? > > M > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Aug 27 15:28:33 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 17:28:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Flooding in Texas- Louisiana Can?t help but to feel really sad for folks in the flood zones from Storm Harvey. Hope the folks on list from the effected area are safe and they were able to get their families and important assets to high ground. Something like 150 trillion cubic feet (4,26 trillion cubic meters) of rain water has fallen already. Crazy numbers. Crazy devastation. Kimberley and I are keeping these folks in our thoughts and prayers. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sun Aug 27 12:38:14 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 08:38:14 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: <00632752-5BF2-4C5E-904B-3EB222BDA729@mac.com> It is still working fine for me, I think. I can access the website, click on one of the posted links/questions, and see all the text and photos. Is there something else involved that is not working? I am not familiar with the website.? Perhaps hurricane Harvey has messed up some links or hosts but it doesn't affect my access from Hawaii? -Roland Sent?from?my?BlackBerry?10?smartphone. ? Original Message ? From: Al Malin Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 8:27 AM To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] ahexp.com M, It?s not offline, it's broke. Got the following error: DB_DataObject Error: Connect failed, turn on debugging to 5 see why Al Malin Tricarb > On Aug 27, 2017, at 10:52 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > ahexp.com seems to be off line.... > can anyone confirm? > > M > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From ah3000me at gmail.com Sun Aug 27 16:06:51 2017 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 18:06:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey siting References: British racing green 3000 parked at 74 Main, aka The Millstone Restaurant, today around noon in beautiful downtown New London, NH. Anyone on the list? Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sun Aug 27 17:30:23 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 16:30:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?ahexp=2Ecom?= i just hit the link in the message and it popped right up. From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun Aug 27 19:22:34 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2017 21:22:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] tap for temp gauge sensor bulb Does anyone know the thread size for the nut that secures the temperature gauge senor bulb into the head? It must be a BSPT thread. My 1/4" BSPT tap is just too small, so I am thinking it is 3/8" BSPT. Can anyone confirm this? The threads are sound, but the nut goes from finger tight to very tight fast, so I am thinking the threads are choked up just past the point where the nut sat for years of uninterrupted service. I just want to get a tap in there to clean them out a bit. Thanks, Mirek '59 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: August-27-17 2:02 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Front Rotor/Hub Question I'll be installing new rotors and pads on my BJ8's front disks, and I have the kind of question only a really anal-retentive person would ask: Do the bolts that affix the hub to the rotor go in bolt head outside, or inside; i.e. with the bolt head, or nut, against the hub flange? It seems like the bolt head should be outside, but when I bought the car the nuts were on the outside. Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From ruvino at ripnet.com Mon Aug 28 07:20:26 2017 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (ruvino at ripnet.com) Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 09:20:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] transmission Just had it re-built after 30 years and find it somewhat ?stiff?. Is this to be expected? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Mon Aug 28 09:51:38 2017 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 16:51:38 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 1961 Works Rally car for sale References: <001501d31ed2$86dd4590$9497d0b0$@shaw.ca> I wish I had the money! I knew the late Tony Ambrose briefly and helped him get back in touch with some of his old team friends at the Healey 50th Anniversary meeting in England. I would have loved to own it. Aside: The Parkes car (PMO 203 - see text). Peter Riley once told me that he thought that it still exists. Others have told me that it got destroyed in an accident. If anyone knows more please let me know. Peter On 27/08/2017 02:19, Ross Maylor wrote: > http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/24122/lot/225/ > > ? > > So far out of my league. Reading the fine print I find that the buyer?s premium > alone is more than my car is worth. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Aug 28 08:48:51 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 07:48:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] ahexp.com References: <20170827233023.19809.qmail@server278.com> If using a Windows computer hit the F5 key at top of keyboard to refresh your browser, or try another browser. Chrome instead of Edge(windows 10) or Internet Explorer or vice versa. Same on a Mac to clear your cache. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Aug 27, 2017 11:52 PM, "healeymanjim" wrote: i just hit the link in the message and it popped right up. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Aug 28 09:43:34 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 11:43:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Windshield Wipers References: <050101d31f5d$56b35810$041a0830$@rr.com> The two hex-headed screws that secure the two halves of the wheelboxes together can loosen as well, allowing the cable to slip over the gearwheel, causing the symptoms you've described. Rick Neville On Sun, Aug 27, 2017 at 1:53 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > Assuming that you haven't been working on the motor or the wiper actuating > links, the most likely cause and the easiest to check would be that the > wipers are slipping on the splined wiper shafts, but I would expect that to > begin with only one wiper, not both at the same time. Make sure the wipers > are fully seated on the shaft. See if you can turn the wipers on their > shafts with the wiper motor off. If you can, there's your problem. If the > splines are O.K., then I would suspect a problem with the actuating rack or > gears in the wheelboxes, finally, the parking mechanism in the motor. > > > > > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Dennis > Gavin > *Sent:* Sunday, August 27, 2017 11:24 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] BJ7 Windshield Wipers > > > > Healey Gurus, > > > > My 63 BJ7 wipers are giving me trouble and not sure where to start. They > now seem off the track, won?t park and only wipe about 30 degrees of > windshield. Now progressed to attempting to wipe the bonnet? Suggestions > from this most valuable group sincerely appreciated. > > > > djg > > > > Dennis Gavin > > Gavin Associates Inc > > Office: (508)-381-1090 <(508)%20381-1090> > > Fax: (508)-381-1095 <(508)%20381-1095> > > Djg at Gavinassociates.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Mon Aug 28 11:52:51 2017 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 17:52:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] tap for temp gauge sensor bulb References: <006401d31f9c$20f12470$62d36d50$@sympatico.ca> You might try a round (spiral) wire brush on a drill motor. I have a selection of sizes and find them quite handy for chasing out female threads. McMaster Carr has a good selection and they are cheaper than taps.Ray Juncal"I thought getting old would take longer" From: Mirek Sharp To: 'Healeys' Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 1:28 AM Subject: [Healeys] tap for temp gauge sensor bulb Does anyone know the thread size for the nut that secures the temperature gauge senor bulb into the head?? It? must be a BSPT thread.? My 1/4" BSPT tap is just too small, so I am thinking it is 3/8" BSPT.? Can anyone confirm this?? The threads are sound, but the nut goes from finger tight to very tight fast, so I am thinking the threads are choked up just past the point where the nut sat for years of uninterrupted service. I just want to get a tap in there to clean them out a bit. Thanks, Mirek '59 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: August-27-17 2:02 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Front Rotor/Hub Question I'll be installing new rotors and pads on my BJ8's front disks, and I have the kind of question only a really anal-retentive person would ask: Do the bolts that affix the hub to the rotor go in bolt head outside, or inside; i.e. with the bolt head, or nut, against the hub flange?? It seems like the bolt head should be outside, but when I bought the car the nuts were on the outside. Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From djg at gavinassociates.com Mon Aug 28 17:02:53 2017 From: djg at gavinassociates.com (Dennis Gavin) Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 23:02:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Wiper Problems BJ7 References: Dennis Gavin Gavin Associates Inc Office: (508)-381-1090 Fax: (508)-381-1095 From: Dennis Gavin Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 6:59 PM To: '010501d31f55$4d0e9980$e72bcc80$@bighealey.org' <010501d31f55$4d0e9980$e72bcc80$@bighealey.org> Subject: Wiper Problems BJ7 Thanks very much for the responses and suggestions. The round piece with the wire going into it on the wiper motor is not loose and leads me to believe that may not be the issue. I took the wiper arms off the spindle and operated the wiper switch. I found the spindles moved properly and parked as you would expect. I then put the wiper arms back on and tried to operate once again. From the drivers seat the wipers would sweep across to the right and not have the power to return. If I assisted the wiper arms they would return and also park it the switch were shut to off. Seems like not enough power to make the return sweep? Any suggestions are most welcome and thanks in advance. djg Dennis Gavin Gavin Associates Inc Office: (508)-381-1090 Fax: (508)-381-1095 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Aug 28 17:23:29 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 09:23:29 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat Greetings Would anyone have a high res photo of an original bellows thermostat as fitted to Austin-Healeys they could send me please? Many Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Aug 28 21:10:47 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 03:10:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper Problems BJ7 References: , Perhaps the small wheel in the wheelbox either has some teeth missing or worn down. It is a bit of work to check it out but the nice thing about it, if this is the case, turn the wheel 1/2 turn and you can likely use these for a few years yet. This wheel does not turn a complete turn when the wipers are working. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Dennis Gavin Sent: August 28, 2017 11:02 PM To: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: [Healeys] FW: Wiper Problems BJ7 Dennis Gavin Gavin Associates Inc Office: (508)-381-1090 Fax: (508)-381-1095 From: Dennis Gavin Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 6:59 PM To: '010501d31f55$4d0e9980$e72bcc80$@bighealey.org' <010501d31f55$4d0e9980$e72bcc80$@bighealey.org> Subject: Wiper Problems BJ7 Thanks very much for the responses and suggestions. The round piece with the wire going into it on the wiper motor is not loose and leads me to believe that may not be the issue. I took the wiper arms off the spindle and operated the wiper switch. I found the spindles moved properly and parked as you would expect. I then put the wiper arms back on and tried to operate once again. From the drivers seat the wipers would sweep across to the right and not have the power to return. If I assisted the wiper arms they would return and also park it the switch were shut to off. Seems like not enough power to make the return sweep? Any suggestions are most welcome and thanks in advance. djg Dennis Gavin Gavin Associates Inc Office: (508)-381-1090 Fax: (508)-381-1095 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Aug 28 21:42:18 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 13:42:18 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Price in 1954 Hello Would anyone know the cost of a 100 in 1954 please? Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Mon Aug 28 21:50:11 2017 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 03:50:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] FW: Wiper Problems BJ7 References: <1581013161.4388583.1503978611339.ref@mail.yahoo.com> -------------------------------------------- On Mon, 8/28/17, Dennis Gavin wrote: Subject: [Healeys] FW: Wiper Problems BJ7 From the drivers seat the wipers would sweep across to the right and not have the power to return. If I assisted the wiper arms they would return and also park it the switch were shut to off. Seems like not enough power to make the return sweep? Any suggestions are most welcome and thanks in advance. ? djg Switch contacts "inide" the unit The only thing changing is the direction of current flow through the motor...there are "reversing contacts" inside the housing that switch the direction of current flow to the motor to reverse the direction of the wipers jim From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Aug 28 22:42:28 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 21:42:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Wiper Problems BJ7 References: My dad rebuilt the wiper motor in our BN2.? There was a lot of caked-dry grease inside which probably impeded operation.? I think you need to take your motor apart and at least clean it out good and regrease it (white/lithium is appropriate).? Same with the flex shaft to the pivots. Bob On 8/28/2017 4:02 PM, Dennis Gavin wrote: > > Dennis Gavin > > Gavin Associates Inc > > Office: (508)-381-1090 > > Fax: (508)-381-1095 > > > *From:* Dennis Gavin > *Sent:* Monday, August 28, 2017 6:59 PM > *To:* '010501d31f55$4d0e9980$e72bcc80$@bighealey.org' > <010501d31f55$4d0e9980$e72bcc80$@bighealey.org> > *Subject:* Wiper Problems BJ7 > > Thanks very much for the responses and suggestions. The round piece > with the wire going into it on the wiper motor is not loose and leads > me to believe that may not be the issue. I took the wiper arms off the > spindle and operated the wiper switch. I found the spindles moved > properly and parked as you would expect. I then put the wiper arms > back on and tried to operate once again. From the drivers seat the > wipers would sweep across to the right and not have the power to > return. If I assisted the wiper arms they would return and also park > it the switch were shut to off. Seems like not enough power to make > the return sweep? Any suggestions are most welcome and thanks in advance. > > djg > > Dennis Gavin > > Gavin Associates Inc > > Office: (508)-381-1090 > > Fax: (508)-381-1095 > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Aug 29 01:47:50 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 09:47:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Thermostat References: <00ad01d32054$a9baf520$fd30df60$@tpg.com.au> Left is the original SMITHS 85025/..or the identical Remax T200/.., right is the equivalent AC TF.. These are available in several opening temperatures: 68C, 72C, 80C, 82C, 86C and probably some more. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 29-8-2017 om 1:23 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn: > > Greetings > > Would anyone have a high res photo of an original bellows thermostat > as fitted to Austin-Healeys they could send me please? > > Many Thanks > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4941[1].JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1375179 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4942[1].JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1470768 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4944[1].JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1103240 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Tue Aug 29 08:49:20 2017 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 10:49:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Price in 1954 According to a 1954 Road and Track magazine, $2985 U.S. dollars. Steven Kingsbury In a message dated 8/29/2017 1:28:33 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, p_cquinn at tpg.com.au writes: Hello Would anyone know the cost of a 100 in 1954 please? Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Tue Aug 29 10:46:53 2017 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 12:46:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey BN1 Head gasket Hello, My friend Bob had a problem with his Early BN1. The engine was rebuilt 2K miles ago or so and after several trips at speed on the highway cylinders 2 and 3 lost compression. The picture explains what we found when we pulled the head. The head has a 4 thousandth warp between cylinders 2 and 3 and a 2 thousandth warp between cylinders 1 and 2. The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner so we don't know what was done , but the head looks like it was milled before. Bob had planed on installing a aluminum head soon anyway so not a big deal. I thought people would like the picture. We are installing a Denis Welsh head with new hardware and their steel head gasket. Wayne -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2651.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1042195 bytes Desc: not available URL: From schottc at knology.net Tue Aug 29 11:19:52 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 13:19:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Top Boot Installation References: <1f61d4.2dc5d7ce.46d6d8f0@aol.com> Would someone please tell me where I can find installation instructions for the top boot on a BJ8. Thanks. Regards, Charlie Schott ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Tue Aug 29 12:32:41 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 14:32:41 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Top Boot Installation References: <050101d31f5d$56b35810$041a0830$@rr.com> Would someone please tell me where I can find installation instructions on installing the top boot on a BJ8. Thanks. Regards, Charlie Schott ----- Original Message ----- From: Healeys [mailto: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Dennis Gavin Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 11:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Windshield Wipers Healey Gurus, My 63 BJ7 wipers are giving me trouble and not sure where to start. They now seem off the track, won?t park and only wipe about 30 degrees of windshield. Now progressed to attempting to wipe the bonnet? Suggestions from this most valuable group sincerely appreciated. djg Dennis Gavin Gavin Associates Inc Office: (508)-381-1090 Fax: (508)-381-1095 Djg at Gavinassociates.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Aug 29 13:16:48 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 15:16:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Top Boot Installation References: <050101d31f5d$56b35810$041a0830$@rr.com> <1018999131.858432.1504031561408.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> 1. Find the centerline of the car (With the top up and latched, I ran a string from the center of the front bumper, over the top, and back to the center of the rear bumper. Make sure the string is straight and crosses the center of the nose badge and lines up with the boot lid handle. 2. Mark the center of the car on the rear shroud just above the boot lid with colored chalk. 3. Find the centerline of the new boot cover by folding it exactly in half (vinyl side out) and marking the centerline with chalk. 4. Rub chalk on the tip of the Lift-the-Dot fastener studs (best to do this one fastener at a time). 5. Line up the new boot cover with the centerline of the car, using the marks previously made. 6. By positioning the boot cover over a fastener stud and pressing down on it, the chalk should transfer from the stud to the fabric of the boot cover. This is the position of the hole for the Lift-the-Dot receptacle. Do the ones at the rear and work your way forward, using the same technique with the chalk and alternating side-to-side. All the fasteners necessary for the cover can be located using the chalk technique. Make sure the cover is straight and smooth after each fastener is done. 7. Sit back and admire your handiwork! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC TARHEELY license plate From: Charles Schott [mailto:schottc at knology.net] Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 2:33 PM To: HealeyRick Cc: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Top Boot Installation Would someone please tell me where I can find installation instructions on installing the top boot on a BJ8. Thanks. Regards, Charlie Schott _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Gavin Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 11:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Windshield Wipers Healey Gurus, My 63 BJ7 wipers are giving me trouble and not sure where to start. They now seem off the track, won?t park and only wipe about 30 degrees of windshield. Now progressed to attempting to wipe the bonnet? Suggestions from this most valuable group sincerely appreciated. djg Dennis Gavin Gavin Associates Inc Office: (508)-381-1090 Fax: (508)-381-1095 Djg at Gavinassociates.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 19755 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Aug 29 13:30:31 2017 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 15:30:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required ?Oh wise ones!!! I'm working on the revisions to the Concours Guidelines for 2018 and have a ?question that some of you may be able to help with. Prior to about 1958 the starter solenoid used in Healeys was Lucas part number 76411. This type of solenoid can easily be identified by having a cast aluminum body as on the left on the pic attached. Later cars and all subsequent Lucas replacements had a pressed steel body as illustrated on the right. The change point is not noted in any of the parts books that I have. If anyone has an original car with its original solenoid from around that date I would appreciate hearing from you with the serial number of your car and the solenoid type fitted. Michael Salter Concours Guidelines Editor. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Solenoid Picture.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 197366 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mstanleyfl at gmail.com Tue Aug 29 16:30:02 2017 From: mstanleyfl at gmail.com (Michael Stanley) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 18:30:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100 price References: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1qAOm1fllGcb0NfAV-jvFnLk5zAWRlfSs_kCeg8LfGho/edit?usp=drivesdk Tom McCahill says $2,895 delivered to New York in November of 1953. (Link is to his review) Michael Stanley -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Aug 29 16:50:14 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 23:50:14 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Pitted chrome. The Paris BJ8 was over in Devon, UK, for my daughter's wedding. Our damp weather showed up one issue:- I think that a PO fitted cheap and cheerful chrome back in the days when the new bumpers looked good for a couple of years then dissolved. His bumpers look great most of the time....shiny and just right. BUT, given a bit of damp, some areas come up with a smear of rusty brown. A big enough smear to be noticeable and to jar somewhat with the otherwise fairly pristine appearance of his car. Close inspection reveals areas of minute pitting which give off rust. We'll wait until the car's back in the UK before fitting decent new bumpers. Mainly because we'll be doing the "top cowl" of the grille at the same time and that's a job and a half!! So, until then, what can he do to keep the rust/pitting under control? Maybe some proprietary snake oil which will stop the oxidization and seal the pitting. And another bottle of magic something or other to keep the water off the snake oil....not paint surely, but some sort of wax....? Any ideas? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 29 17:59:42 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 16:59:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Baby needs new shoes ... ... and a left rear wheel cylinder.? Moss has 'TRW brand' for $59.99, and 'aftermarket'--presumably not Girling--for $17.49. Anyone used either/both?? Ordinarily, I'd go name brand, but the price difference is so large I have to wonder what the difference is.?? And, repair kits are $12.99 so the cylinder itself is 'worth' less than $5! Bob From josef-eckert at t-online.de Tue Aug 29 18:53:28 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2017 02:53:28 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required References: Michael, I have no exact date, but as far as I know the change was some years later. All the roadsters had the cast aluminium body starter solenoid. Change should have been after 1962. But look forward to hear more about it. Cherrs, Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required Datum: 2017-08-30T01:26:12+0200 Von: "Michael Salter" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" Oh wise ones!!! I'm working on the revisions to the Concours Guidelines for 2018 and have a question that some of you may be able to help with. Prior to about 1958 the starter solenoid used in Healeys was Lucas part number 76411. This type of solenoid can easily be identified by having a cast aluminum body as on the left on the pic attached. Later cars and all subsequent Lucas replacements had a pressed steel body as illustrated on the right. The change point is not noted in any of the parts books that I have. If anyone has an original car with its original solenoid from around that date I would appreciate hearing from you with the serial number of your car and the solenoid type fitted. Michael Salter Concours Guidelines Editor. ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Aug 29 20:27:21 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 19:27:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pitted chrome. References: <003b01d32119$2d911c20$88b35460$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> WD-40, i.e. 'water dispersant, 40th formulation,' was developed to prevent water contamination and corrosion in the nuclear warheads in America's Atlas ICBMs (the same booster that put John Glenn in orbit).?? It should be adequate to mitigate rusting on a repop bumper for an LBC, and you should be able to find a can--or a European version--in a typical parts store.? When you get home, wash the bumpers with any car wash soap, and I've heard that balled-up aluminum foil will 'scrub' rust from chrome (since you're gonna replace anyway, you can try it for kicks). Side note: Years ago I was checking out a small LBC parts dealer in an industrial area in Campbell, CA.? The owner had a brand new, NOS Big Healey chrome bumper on the wall (for $300).? He complained to me that he couldn't sell it, because people would only buy the $100 repops. Bob On 8/29/2017 3:50 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > The Paris BJ8 was over in Devon, UK, for my daughter?s wedding. Our > damp weather showed up one issue:- > > I think that a PO fitted cheap and cheerful chrome back in the days > when the new bumpers looked good for a couple of years then dissolved. > His bumpers look great most of the time....shiny and just right. BUT, > given a bit of damp, some areas come up with a smear of rusty brown. A > big enough smear to be noticeable and to jar somewhat with the > otherwise fairly pristine appearance of his car. Close inspection > reveals areas of minute pitting which give off rust. > > We?ll wait until the car?s back in the UK before fitting decent new > bumpers. Mainly because we?ll be doing the ?top cowl? of the grille at > the same time and that?s a job and a half!! > > So, until then, what can he do to keep the rust/pitting under control? > Maybe some proprietary snake oil which will stop the oxidization and > seal the pitting. And another bottle of magic something or other to > keep the water off the snake oil....not paint surely, but some sort of > wax....? > > Any ideas? Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Aug 29 20:35:14 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2017 22:35:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pitted chrome. References: <003b01d32119$2d911c20$88b35460$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Simon, Nevr-Dull to remove the rust and a paste wax? http://www.nevrdull.com/index.html Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 08/29/2017 06:50 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > The Paris BJ8 was over in Devon, UK, for my daughter?s wedding. Our damp > weather showed up one issue:- > > I think that a PO fitted cheap and cheerful chrome back in the days when > the new bumpers looked good for a couple of years then dissolved. His > bumpers look great most of the time....shiny and just right. BUT, given > a bit of damp, some areas come up with a smear of rusty brown. A big > enough smear to be noticeable and to jar somewhat with the otherwise > fairly pristine appearance of his car. Close inspection reveals areas of > minute pitting which give off rust. > > We?ll wait until the car?s back in the UK before fitting decent new > bumpers. Mainly because we?ll be doing the ?top cowl? of the grille at > the same time and that?s a job and a half!! > > So, until then, what can he do to keep the rust/pitting under control? > Maybe some proprietary snake oil which will stop the oxidization and > seal the pitting. And another bottle of magic something or other to keep > the water off the snake oil....not paint surely, but some sort of wax....? > > Any ideas? Thanks, > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From YNOTINK at msn.com Tue Aug 29 20:56:41 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2017 02:56:41 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey BN1 Head gasket References: Wayne, I had the same problem with my BN1. Machining the head and using a variety of head gaskets didn't solve the problem. When I finally removed the engine for a rebuild the machinist found that the block had been milled out of square and had a rise of .012" from corner to corner. I recommend a thorough inspection of the block to assure it is flat before fitting the new head. It would be disappointing to put a lot of money and time into this and then to have it recur. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Wayne Schultz Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 4:46:53 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Healey BN1 Head gasket Hello, My friend Bob had a problem with his Early BN1. The engine was rebuilt 2K miles ago or so and after several trips at speed on the highway cylinders 2 and 3 lost compression. The picture explains what we found when we pulled the head. The head has a 4 thousandth warp between cylinders 2 and 3 and a 2 thousandth warp between cylinders 1 and 2. The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner so we don't know what was done , but the head looks like it was milled before. Bob had planed on installing a aluminum head soon anyway so not a big deal. I thought people would like the picture. We are installing a Denis Welsh head with new hardware and their steel head gasket. Wayne -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Aug 29 21:26:27 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2017 11:26:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey BN1 Head gasket References: You have to be careful not to mill the block and head too much otherwise you will get a misalignment of the cooling channels. On Wed, Aug 30, 2017 at 12:46 AM, Wayne Schultz wrote: > Hello, > > My friend Bob had a problem with his Early BN1. The engine was > rebuilt 2K miles ago or so and after several trips at speed on the highway > cylinders 2 and 3 lost compression. The picture explains what we found when > we pulled the head. The head has a 4 thousandth warp between cylinders 2 > and 3 and a 2 thousandth warp between cylinders 1 and 2. The engine was > rebuilt by the previous owner so we don't know what was done , but the head > looks like it was milled before. Bob had planed on installing a aluminum > head soon anyway so not a big deal. I thought people would like the > picture. We are installing a Denis Welsh head with new hardware and their > steel head gasket. > > Wayne > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Aug 29 22:40:50 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2017 04:40:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Pitted chrome. References: <003b01d32119$2d911c20$88b35460$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Simichrome. ?Removes light rust and leaves a protective coating.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 7:28 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: The Paris BJ8 was over in Devon, UK, for my daughter?s wedding. Our damp weather showed up one issue:- I think that a PO fitted cheap and cheerful chrome back in the days when the new bumpers looked good for a couple of years then dissolved. His bumpers look great most of the time....shiny and just right. BUT, given a bit of damp, some areas come up with a smear of rusty brown. A big enough smear to be noticeable and to jar somewhat with the otherwise fairly pristine appearance of his car. Close inspection reveals areas of minute pitting which give off rust. We?ll wait until the car?s back in the UK before fitting decent new bumpers. Mainly because we?ll be doing the ?top cowl? of the grille at the same time and that?s a job and a half!! So, until then, what can he do to keep the rust/pitting under control? Maybe some proprietary snake oil which will stop the oxidization and seal the pitting. And another bottle of magic something or other to keep the water off the snake oil....not paint surely, but some sort of wax....? Any ideas? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Aug 30 00:36:41 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2017 06:36:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healey BN1 Head gasket References: I have not put the head on my BN2 engine block yet. ?It is an older crack repair that was done correctly, but the intake chambers had been augered out to facilitate the welding. ?I had it pocket ported to even the air flow out and the CC'd for an even idle. ?I was involved with the machining of the block and the head, so the two surfaces are a known quantity. ?I will be coating both sides of the gasket with Wellseal to try to minimize the inevitible leak seeping out between the second and third cylinder. ?I know the aluminum head is the best solution for the four cylinder head problem, but if the cast iron head works I can save 4 grand. ?I will also check the water galley alignment also. Thanks for the heads up on that.Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 11:18 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From rft2 at aol.com Wed Aug 30 06:09:41 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2017 08:09:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Pitted chrome. References: <003b01d32119$2d911c20$88b35460$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> I've used Wenol (blue) polish with cotton balls, followed by a good paste wax. Mal Hickok 1967 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Simon Lachlan To: healeys Sent: Tue, Aug 29, 2017 10:19 pm Subject: [Healeys] Pitted chrome. The Paris BJ8 was over in Devon, UK, for my daughter?s wedding. Our damp weather showed up one issue:- I think that a PO fitted cheap and cheerful chrome back in the days when the new bumpers looked good for a couple of years then dissolved. His bumpers look great most of the time....shiny and just right. BUT, given a bit of damp, some areas come up with a smear of rusty brown. A big enough smear to be noticeable and to jar somewhat with the otherwise fairly pristine appearance of his car. Close inspection reveals areas of minute pitting which give off rust. We?ll wait until the car?s back in the UK before fitting decent new bumpers. Mainly because we?ll be doing the ?top cowl? of the grille at the same time and that?s a job and a half!! So, until then, what can he do to keep the rust/pitting under control? Maybe some proprietary snake oil which will stop the oxidization and seal the pitting. And another bottle of magic something or other to keep the water off the snake oil....not paint surely, but some sort of wax....? Any ideas? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Aug 30 06:55:31 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2017 06:55:31 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healey BN1 Head gasket References: Not at all uncommon on the? 4 cyl engines. Easy solution is to have copper/steel/whatever O-rings made to sit atop the regular head gasket. I used to have Mordy Dunst at Gasket Works make them for me.. Unsure if he is still in business. Typically I had them at .002-.003 in thickness. This allows a bit more sealing around the bores. Used a smear of lube to hold them in position when dropping the head on. Follow installation with a good coolant sealant (K-Seal) prophyactically. DaveP On 8/29/2017 10:46 AM, Wayne Schultz wrote: > Hello, > > ? ? ? ? ? ?My friend Bob had a problem with his Early BN1. The engine > was rebuilt 2K miles ago or so and after several trips at speed on the > highway cylinders 2 and 3 lost compression. The picture explains what > we found when we pulled the head. The head has a 4 thousandth warp > between cylinders 2 and 3 and a 2 thousandth warp between cylinders 1 > and 2. The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner so we don't know > what was done , but the head looks like it was milled before. Bob ?had > planed on installing a aluminum head soon anyway so not a big deal. I > thought people would like the picture.? We are installing a Denis > Welsh head with new hardware and their steel head gasket. > > ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Wayne > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Aug 30 08:14:06 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2017 16:14:06 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey BN1 Head gasket References: <561cce9d-3cd5-9dbc-05cb-d8ce4f6fc775@porterscustom.com> The origin of the damage looks very much like a cold engine forced to deliver peak performance. Always heat up any engine slowly by driving normally until the oil pressure starts to drop a bit, i.e. usually around 15 minutes. Another cause may be running the engine without thermostat. Kees Oudesluijs. Op 30-8-2017 om 14:55 schreef David Porter: > > Not at all uncommon on the? 4 cyl engines. Easy solution is to have > copper/steel/whatever O-rings made to sit atop the regular head > gasket. I used to have Mordy Dunst at Gasket Works make them for me.. > Unsure if he is still in business. Typically I had them at .002-.003 > in thickness. This allows a bit more sealing around the bores. Used a > smear of lube to hold them in position when dropping the head on. > Follow installation with a good coolant sealant (K-Seal) prophyactically. > > DaveP > > > On 8/29/2017 10:46 AM, Wayne Schultz wrote: >> Hello, >> >> ? ? ? ? ? ?My friend Bob had a problem with his Early BN1. The engine >> was rebuilt 2K miles ago or so and after several trips at speed on >> the highway cylinders 2 and 3 lost compression. The picture explains >> what we found when we pulled the head. The head has a 4 thousandth >> warp between cylinders 2 and 3 and a 2 thousandth warp between >> cylinders 1 and 2. The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner so we >> don't know what was done , but the head looks like it was milled >> before. Bob ?had planed on installing a aluminum head soon anyway so >> not a big deal. I thought people would like the picture.? We are >> installing a Denis Welsh head with new hardware and their steel head >> gasket. >> >> ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Wayne >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> > > -- > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM > 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hgmiller3 at centurylink.net Wed Aug 30 15:38:51 2017 From: hgmiller3 at centurylink.net (Herb Miller) Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2017 16:38:51 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required References: 1962 BT7 Tri-carb, H-BT7-14971. Cast case starter solenoid. Build date 18-23 Aug. 1961. Stampings on case 9 60 LUCAS ST 950 76411E 12VL Made In England I believe the solenoid is original as I have owned the car since 1971. Herb Miller From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 2:31 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Starter Solenoid Guidelines help required ?Oh wise ones!!! I'm working on the revisions to the Concours Guidelines for 2018 and have a ?question that some of you may be able to help with. Prior to about 1958 the starter solenoid used in Healeys was Lucas part number 76411. This type of solenoid can easily be identified by having a cast aluminum body as on the left on the pic attached. Later cars and all subsequent Lucas replacements had a pressed steel body as illustrated on the right. The change point is not noted in any of the parts books that I have. If anyone has an original car with its original solenoid from around that date I would appreciate hearing from you with the serial number of your car and the solenoid type fitted. Michael Salter Concours Guidelines Editor. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Wed Aug 30 16:01:09 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2017 08:01:09 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Prices & Thermostats Hello Many thanks to everyone who responded on 100 prices in 1954 and who sent me photos of original thermostats. Best wishes Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 31 12:03:26 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2017 11:03:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front Rotor/Hub Question References: I was going to replace the old, OEM bolts with new Grade 8 splitwashers, nuts and bolts, but noticed something I hadn't considered before.? The OEM bolts have a long--about 3/4- inch--smooth shank, and only a half-inch or so of thread.? But, if you go a hardware store to buy Grade 8 in the same, or slightly longer, length you won't find bolts this short with that much smooth shank.? I noticed when removing the bolts that they seemed to be a pretty tight fit in both the rotor and hub holes; I now think that this is purposeful as having tightly fitted, smooth bolt shanks probably help prevent any sheering motion between the rotor and hub.? Having a fully-threaded bolt would not prevent sheering, and the threads might cause fretting on the rotor and hub holes.? This would be similar to, but different in practice, to the 'dowel' bolts used in mating bellhousings to the rear engine plate.? Now, I think I either need to reuse the OEM bolts or buy longer, Grade 8 bolts with more shank and cut them to size. No point, just an observation. Bob On 8/27/2017 11:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I'll be installing new rotors and pads on my BJ8's front disks, and I > have the kind of question only a really anal-retentive person would > ask: Do the bolts that affix the hub to the rotor go in bolt head > outside, or inside; i.e. with the bolt head, or nut, against the hub > flange?? It seems like the bolt head should be outside, but when I > bought the car the nuts were on the outside. > > Bob > > > From s.hutchings at rogers.com Thu Aug 31 15:58:16 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2017 21:58:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] alternator conversion References: <1155283985.639862.1504216696032.ref@mail.yahoo.com> New Problem:I purchased the alternator conversion kit recently from AH Spares, and the replacement voltage regulator/junction box for BJ8.When I had everything wired up, following the directions very carefully, I started the car and went for a drive. All seemed well, and a multi-meter told me I was charging at just over 14 volts.However, I've let the car sit for a few days and the battery is completely flat. Somewhere there is a leak- something is draining power. ?Any suggestions? I looked at the WOSP site, but they refuse to deal with the public. I also noticed that the warning ignition light didn't come on when I turned the key, but I had planned to get around to that...now I think there may be a connection. Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Thu Aug 31 16:35:55 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2017 10:35:55 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey happenings in LA Labor Weekend Hi Guys, I'm in Huntington Beach atm for work, any recommendations for Healey events this weekend? OCCA has a car cruise which I'll check out on Saturday. Cheers, Andy. From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 31 17:39:21 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2017 16:39:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey happenings in LA Labor Weekend References: Next weekend is the start of the International Healey Week in Monterey Sept 11 - 15 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: A H List Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2017 3:35 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Healey happenings in LA Labor Weekend Hi Guys, I'm in Huntington Beach atm for work, any recommendations for Healey events this weekend? OCCA has a car cruise which I'll check out on Saturday. Cheers, Andy. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From manifold at telus.net Thu Aug 31 19:48:03 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2017 18:48:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pitted chrome. References: <003b01d32119$2d911c20$88b35460$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> mwq8dfoM7WJpbmwq9dZ7d5 Quick-Glo is an excellent chrome cleaner and sealer all in one. http://www.quick-glo.com/ _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 9:41 PM To: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pitted chrome. Simichrome. Removes light rust and leaves a protective coating. Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 7:28 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: The Paris BJ8 was over in Devon, UK, for my daughter's wedding. Our damp weather showed up one issue:- I think that a PO fitted cheap and cheerful chrome back in the days when the new bumpers looked good for a couple of years then dissolved. His bumpers look great most of the time....shiny and just right. BUT, given a bit of damp, some areas come up with a smear of rusty brown. A big enough smear to be noticeable and to jar somewhat with the otherwise fairly pristine appearance of his car. Close inspection reveals areas of minute pitting which give off rust. We'll wait until the car's back in the UK before fitting decent new bumpers. Mainly because we'll be doing the "top cowl" of the grille at the same time and that's a job and a half!! So, until then, what can he do to keep the rust/pitting under control? Maybe some proprietary snake oil which will stop the oxidization and seal the pitting. And another bottle of magic something or other to keep the water off the snake oil....not paint surely, but some sort of wax....? Any ideas? Thanks, Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Aug 31 21:26:07 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2017 23:26:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front Rotor/Hub Question References: For what it is worth, I find the original fasteners on my BT7 (and on my 50s/60s English motorcycles) to be of excellent quality, and unless they are really butchered, I will clean them up and re-use them over and over. Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: August-31-17 2:03 PM To: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Rotor/Hub Question I was going to replace the old, OEM bolts with new Grade 8 splitwashers, nuts and bolts, but noticed something I hadn't considered before. The OEM bolts have a long--about 3/4- inch--smooth shank, and only a half-inch or so of thread. But, if you go a hardware store to buy Grade 8 in the same, or slightly longer, length you won't find bolts this short with that much smooth shank. I noticed when removing the bolts that they seemed to be a pretty tight fit in both the rotor and hub holes; I now think that this is purposeful as having tightly fitted, smooth bolt shanks probably help prevent any sheering motion between the rotor and hub. Having a fully-threaded bolt would not prevent sheering, and the threads might cause fretting on the rotor and hub holes. This would be similar to, but different in practice, to the 'dowel' bolts used in mating bellhousings to the rear engine plate. Now, I think I either need to reuse the OEM bolts or buy longer, Grade 8 bolts with more shank and cut them to size. No point, just an observation. Bob On 8/27/2017 11:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I'll be installing new rotors and pads on my BJ8's front disks, and I > have the kind of question only a really anal-retentive person would > ask: Do the bolts that affix the hub to the rotor go in bolt head > outside, or inside; i.e. with the bolt head, or nut, against the hub > flange? It seems like the bolt head should be outside, but when I > bought the car the nuts were on the outside. > > Bob > > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Aug 31 21:28:39 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2017 20:28:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front Rotor/Hub Question References: <001a01d322d2$0cf27850$26d768f0$@sympatico.ca> Threads were worn on my OEM bolts.? After 200K miles, I'll forgive 'em. Bob On 8/31/2017 8:26 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote: > For what it is worth, I find the original fasteners on my BT7 (and on my 50s/60s English motorcycles) to be of excellent quality, and unless they are really butchered, I will clean them up and re-use them over and over. > > Mirek > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: August-31-17 2:03 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Rotor/Hub Question > > I was going to replace the old, OEM bolts with new Grade 8 splitwashers, nuts and bolts, but noticed something I hadn't considered before. The OEM bolts have a long--about 3/4- inch--smooth shank, and only a half-inch or so of thread. But, if you go a hardware store to buy Grade > 8 in the same, or slightly longer, length you won't find bolts this short with that much smooth shank. I noticed when removing the bolts that they seemed to be a pretty tight fit in both the rotor and hub holes; I now think that this is purposeful as having tightly fitted, smooth bolt shanks probably help prevent any sheering motion between the rotor and hub. Having a fully-threaded bolt would not prevent sheering, and the threads might cause fretting on the rotor and hub holes. This would be similar to, but different in practice, to the 'dowel' bolts used in mating bellhousings to the rear engine plate. Now, I think I either need to reuse the OEM bolts or buy longer, Grade 8 bolts with more shank and cut them to size. > > No point, just an observation. > > Bob > > > On 8/27/2017 11:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> I'll be installing new rotors and pads on my BJ8's front disks, and I >> have the kind of question only a really anal-retentive person would >> ask: Do the bolts that affix the hub to the rotor go in bolt head >> outside, or inside; i.e. with the bolt head, or nut, against the hub >> flange? It seems like the bolt head should be outside, but when I >> bought the car the nuts were on the outside. >> >> Bob >> >>