From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Jul 1 06:41:34 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 08:41:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] HBT7L-2232 References: <4d4defc3-ee17-d81c-9f62-81677169fa1e@earthlink.net> Well, the car appears to be in Spain. Anyone need a white soft top with frame and a set of side curtains? From the previous owner (Dean Glenn): Windows ( that screw in, as I remember) are in very good condition. Metal frame for top appears to be original. Cream colored top was new when I purchased the car in 1981. Car was stored in Alabama for many years while I lived in New York. At the time I sold it, car had only about 12,000 miles, so top is like new. I have no idea what these are worth. Would just like to get to Austin Healey owner for fair price before we leave Durham in two weeks. Dean's email address is pglenn4032 at gmail.com. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 06/29/2017 06:23 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > Anyone know the whereabouts of this '60 3000? A previous owner has the > top and side curtains that he'd like to get to the current owner. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > From banjojohn at cox.net Sat Jul 1 07:25:52 2017 From: banjojohn at cox.net (John O'Brien) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 08:25:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed References: I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through the archives a bit. My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive which all works as it is supposed to. What is the advantage to converting to the Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? John O'Brien '61 bugeye "Lucy" "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" On 6/30/2017 10:21 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: > > Gents, > > I?m going to do the Toyota 5 speed conversion on my 1960 BT7. > Apparently, I will need a BJ8 flywheel. Can the old BT7 flywheel be > successfully re-machined to accept the BJ8 clutch plate? If so are > there any instructions for this modification? > > Ed O?Neal > > > Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. > > Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. > > 6418 Commerce Park Drive > > Fort Myers, Florida 33966 > > phone: (239) 245-8728 > > cell: (239) 410-6174 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From r3m1g4 at verizon.net Sat Jul 1 07:38:26 2017 From: r3m1g4 at verizon.net (Mike Garvey) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 09:38:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the carbs? Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? Thanks, Mike Michael Garvey 1967 BJ8/38046 Swampscott, MA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jul 1 10:31:30 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 09:31:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> I haven't done this in a while, but IIRC it's easier to unbolt both banjos. There should be spring-loaded 'thimble' screens in both, and you'd have to twist the hose a lot to get just one in/out. Bob On 7/1/2017 6:38 AM, Mike Garvey wrote: > > Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose > between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the > carbs?Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? > > Thanks, Mike > > Michael Garvey > 1967 BJ8/38046 > Swampscott, MA > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Sat Jul 1 11:36:46 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 13:36:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> Michael, I agree with Bob on his comment. I just completed this on my car and the correct and easy way is to undo both banjo bolts. Leave everything else in place. This gives you great accessibility to the hose you need to replace. Be sure to keep control of the banjo bolt washers and as Bob mentioned, the mesh screen/spring. Another easy thing to do is loosen the bolts on the top of the float chambers. This will allow some movement of the tops and makes it easier to align the banjo bolt threads during reassembly. Be sure to tighten the float bowl bolts after tightening the banjo bolts. Be sure to tighten the hose clamps when you are finished. Just make sure everything is tightened up before you start the car. The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes. Fred 66BJ8 63BJ7 deceased On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 12:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I haven't done this in a while, but IIRC it's easier to unbolt both > banjos. There should be spring-loaded 'thimble' screens in both, and you'd > have to twist the hose a lot to get just one in/out. > > Bob > > On 7/1/2017 6:38 AM, Mike Garvey wrote: > > Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose > between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the carbs? > Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? > > Thanks, Mike > > > > Michael Garvey > 1967 BJ8/38046 > Swampscott, MA > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Jul 1 11:43:08 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 13:43:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> Mike, if the rubber is soft enough you should be able to push it out from between the carb connections. If it's old and hard, that can be difficult. Sure, you could unscrew one or both of the banjos and twist the fitting out of the hose. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Garvey Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2017 9:38 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the carbs? Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? Thanks, Mike Michael Garvey 1967 BJ8/38046 Swampscott, MA Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jul 1 11:45:40 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 10:45:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> "... The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes." I ran some some small fuel line off each of the overflow pipes, and tie-wrapped them at the chassis (hard) engine mounts. I always assumed these--or something like them--would be stock, but the Moss catalog doesn't show them. They can't hurt. Bob On 7/1/2017 10:36 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > Michael, > > I agree with Bob on his comment. I just completed this on my car and > the correct and easy way is to undo both banjo bolts. Leave > everything else in place. This gives you great accessibility to the > hose you need to replace. Be sure to keep control of the banjo bolt > washers and as Bob mentioned, the mesh screen/spring. > > Another easy thing to do is loosen the bolts on the top of the float > chambers. This will allow some movement of the tops and makes it > easier to align the banjo bolt threads during reassembly. Be sure to > tighten the float bowl bolts after tightening the banjo bolts. Be > sure to tighten the hose clamps when you are finished. > > Just make sure everything is tightened up before you start the car. > The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes. > > Fred > 66BJ8 > 63BJ7 deceased > > On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 12:31 PM, Bob Spidell > I haven't done this in a while, but IIRC it's easier to unbolt > both banjos. There should be spring-loaded 'thimble' screens in > both, and you'd have to twist the hose a lot to get just one in/out. > > Bob > > > On 7/1/2017 6:38 AM, Mike Garvey wrote: >> >> Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel >> hose between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one >> of the carbs?Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? >> >> Thanks, Mike >> >> Michael Garvey >> 1967 BJ8/38046 >> Swampscott, MA >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Sat Jul 1 11:50:40 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 13:50:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> <3d4188a9-5266-a221-b879-8c0b1afa0804@comcast.net> Bob, I went to a hobby shop selling gas powered models and bought air plane fuel line. Worked perfectly and I dropped the 2 lines thru the frame and away from the exhaust. Fred On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 1:45 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > "... The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes." > > I ran some some small fuel line off each of the overflow pipes, and > tie-wrapped them at the chassis (hard) engine mounts. I always assumed > these--or something like them--would be stock, but the Moss catalog doesn't > show them. They can't hurt. > > Bob > > On 7/1/2017 10:36 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > > Michael, > > I agree with Bob on his comment. I just completed this on my car and the > correct and easy way is to undo both banjo bolts. Leave everything else in > place. This gives you great accessibility to the hose you need to > replace. Be sure to keep control of the banjo bolt washers and as Bob > mentioned, the mesh screen/spring. > > Another easy thing to do is loosen the bolts on the top of the float > chambers. This will allow some movement of the tops and makes it easier to > align the banjo bolt threads during reassembly. Be sure to tighten the > float bowl bolts after tightening the banjo bolts. Be sure to tighten the > hose clamps when you are finished. > > Just make sure everything is tightened up before you start the car. The > overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes. > > Fred > 66BJ8 > 63BJ7 deceased > > On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 12:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> I haven't done this in a while, but IIRC it's easier to unbolt both >> banjos. There should be spring-loaded 'thimble' screens in both, and you'd >> have to twist the hose a lot to get just one in/out. >> >> Bob >> >> On 7/1/2017 6:38 AM, Mike Garvey wrote: >> >> Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose >> between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the carbs >> ? Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? >> >> Thanks, Mike >> >> >> >> Michael Garvey >> 1967 BJ8/38046 >> Swampscott, MA >> >> >> >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sat Jul 1 14:43:24 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 16:43:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed I will reverse the question & suggest the advantages of retaining the original transmission & overdrive. The shift lever is located exactly where the factory intended it to be. No modification to the tunnel & center console required. The rear mounts all line up - no modifications & adapters required. The speedometer cable does not require any modifications or adapters. The engine back plate fits the bell housing without modification. You have 6 speeds forward. 1, 2, 3, 3rd overdrive, 4th & 4th overdrive. No need to purchase a used Toyota 5 speed & worry about it's condition. Or pay to have it inspected & rebuilt No satisfaction in learning the art of double clutching. I love double clutching down into lower gears including 1st gear - very satisfying! I am easily satisfied. The original pressure plate, clutch plate, slave cylinder & clutch hydraulic line all fit without any re-engineering. Your car will be more original & if you care perhaps worth more. I am not saying you will experience all of these if you choose a Toyota, but it does give you a few things to consider. My personal favorite reason: I heard a woman say "It makes me tingle when he flips the overdrive in & out of gear". Does your Toyota do that? Seriously, anyone can shift gears, but knowing how & when to engage or disengage the OD is one of Healying's little pleasures. If your 50+ year old transmission & overdrive are causing you some type of issue(s) & you are not intimately familiar with rebuilding them you should consider having them professionally rebuild. When done correctly they perform well & should not leak (much). Generally, finding someone that truly knows what they are doing & is meticulous in their work is the challenge. Please add to the list if you know of other reasons to keep the original drive train. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: John O'Brien To: Ed O'Neal ; healeys Sent: Sat, Jul 1, 2017 8:55 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed love I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through the archives a bit. My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive which all works as it is supposed to. What is the advantage to converting to the Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? John O'Brien '61 bugeye "Lucy" "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" On 6/30/2017 10:21 AM, Ed O'Neal wrote: Gents, I?m going to do the Toyota 5 speed conversion on my 1960 BT7. Apparently, I will need a BJ8 flywheel. Can the old BT7 flywheel be successfully re-machined to accept the BJ8 clutch plate? If so are there any instructions for this modification? Ed O?Neal ed at wadsworthoneal.com Edward J. O?Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O?Neal Associates, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 phone: (239) 245-8728 cell: (239) 410-6174 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Jul 1 16:51:16 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 22:51:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> <3d4188a9-5266-a221-b879-8c0b1afa0804@comcast.net> Fred, I have been flying RC aircraft since the late 60s.? Kudos to you for thinking outside the box to obtain that fuel line.? Let me make one caveat about gas fuel line for model airplanes.? Most of the Tygon type fuel lines will harden with age and heat will hasten the hardening.? The only gas fuel line that will not harden, ever is made by a company called Sullivan.? They call it Pro-Flex fuel line.? If this is what you got, you scored.? If not, you will be changing it out in a year or two.? I have no financial interest in Sullivan, just an avid RCer.Mike MacLean On Saturday, July 1, 2017 2:41 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: Bob, I went to a hobby shop selling gas powered models and bought air plane fuel line.? Worked perfectly and I dropped the 2 lines thru the?frame and?away from the exhaust. Fred On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 1:45 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: "... The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes." I ran some some small fuel line off each of the overflow pipes, and tie-wrapped them at the chassis (hard) engine mounts.? I always assumed these--or something like them--would be stock, but the Moss catalog doesn't show them.?? They can't hurt. Bob On 7/1/2017 10:36 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: Michael, I agree with Bob on his comment.? I just completed this on my car and the correct and easy way is to undo both banjo bolts.? Leave everything else in place.? This gives you great accessibility to the hose you need to replace.? Be sure to keep control of the banjo bolt washers and as Bob mentioned, the mesh screen/spring.? Another easy thing to do is loosen the bolts on the top of the float chambers.? This will allow some movement of the?tops and makes it easier to align the banjo bolt threads during reassembly.? Be sure to tighten the float bowl bolts?after tightening the banjo bolts.? Be sure to tighten the hose clamps when you are finished. Just make sure everything is tightened up before you start the car.? The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes. Fred 66BJ8 63BJ7 deceased On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 12:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I haven't done this in a while, but IIRC it's easier to unbolt both banjos.? There should be spring-loaded 'thimble' screens in both, and you'd have to twist the hose a lot to get just one in/out. Bob On 7/1/2017 6:38 AM, Mike Garvey wrote: Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the carbs?? Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? Thanks, Mike ? Michael Garvey 1967 BJ8/38046 Swampscott, MA ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Jul 1 17:11:58 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 19:11:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> <3d4188a9-5266-a221-b879-8c0b1afa0804@comcast.net> Just a short time after I bought my BJ8, I left home at 3:00 am to drive from NC to Maryland for a car show. About 20 miles from home, while crossing a bridge, I noticed that my fuel gauge (which had read FULL when I left home) was bouncing around about 1/4. I pulled under a light and investigated, to find that the front carb float had filled up with gas and sunk. My problem then was where to find enough gas at 3:30 am to get back home. I was lucky and found one station open about 5 miles back, filled up, and arrived home with 1/2 tank. I didn't know then that those overflow tubes were original equipment, but realizing that all that fuel went down to the ground past the hot exhaust pipes encouraged me to install some. For BJ8s, the plastic tubes go through the hole in the lower carb heat shield, which has a grommet in it. The parts manual calls it a "ferrule", so perhaps the original "grommet" was metal. I tie wrapped the lower part of the tubes to a lightening hole under the left engine mount. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2017 1:46 PM To: Fred Wescoe Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 "... The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes." I ran some some small fuel line off each of the overflow pipes, and tie-wrapped them at the chassis (hard) engine mounts. I always assumed these--or something like them--would be stock, but the Moss catalog doesn't show them. They can't hurt. Bob On 7/1/2017 10:36 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: Michael, I agree with Bob on his comment. I just completed this on my car and the correct and easy way is to undo both banjo bolts. Leave everything else in place. This gives you great accessibility to the hose you need to replace. Be sure to keep control of the banjo bolt washers and as Bob mentioned, the mesh screen/spring. Another easy thing to do is loosen the bolts on the top of the float chambers. This will allow some movement of the tops and makes it easier to align the banjo bolt threads during reassembly. Be sure to tighten the float bowl bolts after tightening the banjo bolts. Be sure to tighten the hose clamps when you are finished. Just make sure everything is tightened up before you start the car. The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes. Fred 66BJ8 63BJ7 deceased On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 12:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I haven't done this in a while, but IIRC it's easier to unbolt both banjos. There should be spring-loaded 'thimble' screens in both, and you'd have to twist the hose a lot to get just one in/out. Bob On 7/1/2017 6:38 AM, Mike Garvey wrote: Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the carbs? Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? Thanks, Mike Michael Garvey 1967 BJ8/38046 Swampscott, MA Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sat Jul 1 17:31:29 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2017 23:31:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> <3d4188a9-5266-a221-b879-8c0b1afa0804@comcast.net>, That is a great idea; and those old gas powered model shops are disappearing. I buy items from them for a lot of things not model connected. Regards, Richard C BN7 440 Bob, I went to a hobby shop selling gas powered models and bought air plane fuel line. Worked perfectly and I dropped the 2 lines thru the frame and away from the exhaust. Fred "... The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes." I ran some some small fuel line off each of the overflow pipes, and tie-wrapped them at the chassis (hard) engine mounts. I always assumed these--or something like them--would be stock, but the Moss catalog doesn't show them. They can't hurt. Bob On 7/1/2017 10:36 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: Michael, I agree with Bob on his comment. I just completed this on my car and the correct and easy way is to undo both banjo bolts. Leave everything else in place. This gives you great accessibility to the hose you need to replace. Be sure to keep control of the banjo bolt washers and as Bob mentioned, the mesh screen/spring. Another easy thing to do is loosen the bolts on the top of the float chambers. This will allow some movement of the tops and makes it easier to align the banjo bolt threads during reassembly. Be sure to tighten the float bowl bolts after tightening the banjo bolts. Be sure to tighten the hose clamps when you are finished. Just make sure everything is tightened up before you start the car. The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes. Fred 66BJ8 63BJ7 deceased I haven't done this in a while, but IIRC it's easier to unbolt both banjos. There should be spring-loaded 'thimble' screens in both, and you'd have to twist the hose a lot to get just one in/out. Bob On 7/1/2017 6:38 AM, Mike Garvey wrote: Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the carbs? Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? Thanks, Mike Michael Garvey 1967 BJ8/38046 Swampscott, MA _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dayton21 at comcast.net Sun Jul 2 02:53:45 2017 From: dayton21 at comcast.net (mitch) Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2017 04:53:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Rebuilder Hello fellas, Who is the premier Austin Healey(big Healey) engine rebuilder ? And Who is the best rebuilder near???Michigan? Thanks for any suggestions Mitchell Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwhlyadv at aol.com Sun Jul 2 08:06:35 2017 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2017 10:06:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 Before you work on Carbs take a towel and lay it directly under the carbs to catch falling objects. You will drop something and it saves a lot of time looking for lost parts. Jim Werner -----Original Message----- From: Fred Wescoe To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys Sent: Sat, Jul 1, 2017 5:45 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 Bob, I went to a hobby shop selling gas powered models and bought air plane fuel line. Worked perfectly and I dropped the 2 lines thru the frame and away from the exhaust. Fred On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 1:45 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: "... The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes." I ran some some small fuel line off each of the overflow pipes, and tie-wrapped them at the chassis (hard) engine mounts. I always assumed these--or something like them--would be stock, but the Moss catalog doesn't show them. They can't hurt. Bob On 7/1/2017 10:36 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: Michael, I agree with Bob on his comment. I just completed this on my car and the correct and easy way is to undo both banjo bolts. Leave everything else in place. This gives you great accessibility to the hose you need to replace. Be sure to keep control of the banjo bolt washers and as Bob mentioned, the mesh screen/spring. Another easy thing to do is loosen the bolts on the top of the float chambers. This will allow some movement of the tops and makes it easier to align the banjo bolt threads during reassembly. Be sure to tighten the float bowl bolts after tightening the banjo bolts. Be sure to tighten the hose clamps when you are finished. Just make sure everything is tightened up before you start the car. The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes. Fred 66BJ8 63BJ7 deceased On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 12:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I haven't done this in a while, but IIRC it's easier to unbolt both banjos. There should be spring-loaded 'thimble' screens in both, and you'd have to twist the hose a lot to get just one in/out. Bob On 7/1/2017 6:38 AM, Mike Garvey wrote: Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the carbs? Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? Thanks, Mike Michael Garvey 1967 BJ8/38046 Swampscott, MA _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Jul 2 09:34:51 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2017 11:34:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <15d039fde48-56c3-3efd@webprd-m63.mail.aol.com> Excellent point, Jim. An especially important thing to cover is that "black hole" in the diagonal structure beneath the carbs. I cut a piece of foam rubber a bit larger than that opening and stuffed it in there to stay. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Werner Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2017 10:07 AM To: fredwescoe at gmail.com; bspidell at comcast.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 Before you work on Carbs take a towel and lay it directly under the carbs to catch falling objects. You will drop something and it saves a lot of time looking for lost parts. Jim Werner -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Jul 3 16:04:44 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2017 18:04:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Flywheel. Are the flywheels for a BJ8 different from any other 3000? If so, how can I be sure it is for a BJ8. Anyone have a pic you can send me? thanks tom From rohanmarr at mac.com Mon Jul 3 16:43:01 2017 From: rohanmarr at mac.com (Rohan Marr) Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2017 15:43:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Button - Just Stopped Working References: <498412911.858590.1497813186792.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <498412911.858590.1497813186792@mail.yahoo.com> <0EE54CA4-A9C3-44AA-A8DA-5010EC91BDA2@mac.com> <022801d2f3b7$fe6e4550$fb4acff0$@roadrunner.com> I want to thank the entire group for all the wonderful responses. I hope that this weekend I can dig in and try a few of the suggestions! Thank you and I will let you all know how it goes. What a wonderful resource! Rohan ******************************* Rohan (aka Aussie) ?56 Longbridge BN4 ?Hellouise" > On Jul 2, 2017, at 9:51 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > While the solenoid is the most likely, your starter could also have failed?mine did, suddenly and without warning. Push button, nothing. I had an internal dead short in the starter, and this was discovered because after energizing the starter, it was HOT to the touch. Ended up replacing with a modern gear reduction unit, which was considerable cheaper than rebuilding the original and is far superior in actually starting the car. I?m not concours, so the loss of originality was not a concern for me. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rohan Marr > Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2017 7:44 PM > To: Austin Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Starter Button - Just Stopped Working > > Hi Listers, > > After lurking here for way too long I would ask for your help. I have a somewhat original (built 56 for 57) 100~6 Longbridge built (despite the lack of crease in the hood) Healey that I tend to start up in the garage every few months if I have not gone for a drive. This is a California car so I really don?t have the ordinary excuses not to drive like ice & snow. Car is garaged always and I have not started her in a few months, but last time she fired right up. > > Yesterday I went to the garage (I should add battery is on a tender and is good), hit the starter and silence ? nothing ? I mean NOTHING. I turned the key and heard the sweet sound of the SU fuel pump go tick, tick, tick ? tick ?? tick ?? then stop (which is good). Lights go on ? indicators work, horn works ? > > Where should I start ? can a switch just go bad in a few months just sitting after firing right up a few months ago? Fuses are good, leads are in, earth switch is on, etc. > > Should I just crawl under the dash and pull the starter and ?start? there with the multimeter ? or is there somewhere else I should investigate. > > I appreciate all your input and replies! > > Rohan > > > ******************************* > Rohan (aka Aussie) > ?56 Longbridge BN4 ?Hellouise" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jul 3 20:15:16 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2017 19:15:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Flywheel. References: <20170703180444.GPUY7.476.root@pamxwww04-z01> yes different than BJ7 and BT7 Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jul 3, 2017 at 3:04 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > Are the flywheels for a BJ8 different from any other 3000? If so, how can > I be sure it is for a BJ8. Anyone have a pic you can send me? > > thanks > tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdavidso at shaw.ca Mon Jul 3 20:14:42 2017 From: jdavidso at shaw.ca (John Davidson) Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2017 21:14:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Button - Just Stopped Working References: <498412911.858590.1497813186792.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <498412911.858590.1497813186792@mail.yahoo.com> <0EE54CA4-A9C3-44AA-A8DA-5010EC91BDA2@mac.com> <022801d2f3b7$fe6e4550$fb4acff0$@roadrunner.com> Just a very quick response, if all of the other circuits are operating (lights, heater fan, etc) the problem could be that the battery connections are loose or dirty. So when you push the starter button, there is too much resistance or not enough contact to allow for the large current required by the starter to power it; all the circuits usually will go dead at the same time as the push of the starter button. Good luck. John R Davidson, P. Eng. H (204) 895-4523, C (204) 295-9207 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rohan Marr Sent: July-03-17 5:43 PM To: Austin Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Button - Just Stopped Working I want to thank the entire group for all the wonderful responses. I hope that this weekend I can dig in and try a few of the suggestions! Thank you and I will let you all know how it goes. What a wonderful resource! Rohan ******************************* Rohan (aka Aussie) ?56 Longbridge BN4 ?Hellouise" While the solenoid is the most likely, your starter could also have failed?mine did, suddenly and without warning. Push button, nothing. I had an internal dead short in the starter, and this was discovered because after energizing the starter, it was HOT to the touch. Ended up replacing with a modern gear reduction unit, which was considerable cheaper than rebuilding the original and is far superior in actually starting the car. I?m not concours, so the loss of originality was not a concern for me. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rohan Marr Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2017 7:44 PM Subject: [Healeys] Starter Button - Just Stopped Working Hi Listers, After lurking here for way too long I would ask for your help. I have a somewhat original (built 56 for 57) 100~6 Longbridge built (despite the lack of crease in the hood) Healey that I tend to start up in the garage every few months if I have not gone for a drive. This is a California car so I really don?t have the ordinary excuses not to drive like ice & snow. Car is garaged always and I have not started her in a few months, but last time she fired right up. Yesterday I went to the garage (I should add battery is on a tender and is good), hit the starter and silence ? nothing ? I mean NOTHING. I turned the key and heard the sweet sound of the SU fuel pump go tick, tick, tick ? tick ?? tick ?? then stop (which is good). Lights go on ? indicators work, horn works ? Where should I start ? can a switch just go bad in a few months just sitting after firing right up a few months ago? Fuses are good, leads are in, earth switch is on, etc. Should I just crawl under the dash and pull the starter and ?start? there with the multimeter ? or is there somewhere else I should investigate. I appreciate all your input and replies! Rohan ******************************* Rohan (aka Aussie) ?56 Longbridge BN4 ?Hellouise" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Jul 4 17:18:44 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2017 09:18:44 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN4-BJ7 Distributor Cap Hello Would someone have the Lucas number for the six-cylinder distributor cap (BN4 - BJ7) at their fingertips please? Thank you Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Jul 4 19:29:12 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2017 18:29:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Button - Just Stopped Working References: <498412911.858590.1497813186792.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <498412911.858590.1497813186792@mail.yahoo.com> <0EE54CA4-A9C3-44AA-A8DA-5010EC91BDA2@mac.com> <022801d2f3b7$fe6e4550$fb4acff0$@roadrunner.com> Do let us know! Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Rohan Marr [mailto:rohanmarr at mac.com] Sent: Monday, July 03, 2017 3:43 PM To: Austin Healey List Cc: Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter Button - Just Stopped Working I want to thank the entire group for all the wonderful responses. I hope that this weekend I can dig in and try a few of the suggestions! Thank you and I will let you all know how it goes. What a wonderful resource! Rohan ******************************* Rohan (aka Aussie) ?56 Longbridge BN4 ?Hellouise" While the solenoid is the most likely, your starter could also have failed?mine did, suddenly and without warning. Push button, nothing. I had an internal dead short in the starter, and this was discovered because after energizing the starter, it was HOT to the touch. Ended up replacing with a modern gear reduction unit, which was considerable cheaper than rebuilding the original and is far superior in actually starting the car. I?m not concours, so the loss of originality was not a concern for me. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rohan Marr Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2017 7:44 PM Subject: [Healeys] Starter Button - Just Stopped Working Hi Listers, After lurking here for way too long I would ask for your help. I have a somewhat original (built 56 for 57) 100~6 Longbridge built (despite the lack of crease in the hood) Healey that I tend to start up in the garage every few months if I have not gone for a drive. This is a California car so I really don?t have the ordinary excuses not to drive like ice & snow. Car is garaged always and I have not started her in a few months, but last time she fired right up. Yesterday I went to the garage (I should add battery is on a tender and is good), hit the starter and silence ? nothing ? I mean NOTHING. I turned the key and heard the sweet sound of the SU fuel pump go tick, tick, tick ? tick ?? tick ?? then stop (which is good). Lights go on ? indicators work, horn works ? Where should I start ? can a switch just go bad in a few months just sitting after firing right up a few months ago? Fuses are good, leads are in, earth switch is on, etc. Should I just crawl under the dash and pull the starter and ?start? there with the multimeter ? or is there somewhere else I should investigate. I appreciate all your input and replies! Rohan ******************************* Rohan (aka Aussie) ?56 Longbridge BN4 ?Hellouise" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Tue Jul 4 20:47:19 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2017 19:47:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN4-BJ7 Distributor Cap References: SaJ8dAgNpsSDNSaJAdWmPv Patrick, Here you go ,,,, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2017 4:19 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN4-BJ7 Distributor Cap Hello Would someone have the Lucas number for the six-cylinder distributor cap (BN4 - BJ7) at their fingertips please? Thank you Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: LUCAS IGNITION 1930-1970 - LUCAS IGNITION SPARES & APPLICATIONS FOR VEHICLES 1930-1970.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 633110 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Jul 4 21:01:11 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2017 13:01:11 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN4-BJ7 Distributor Cap References: SaJ8dAgNpsSDNSaJAdWmPv <02295D346F324A1BB1573B41F075167B@AllInOne> Wonderful Harold Many thanks Patrick Quinn From: Harold Manifold [mailto:manifold at telus.net] Sent: Wednesday, 5 July 2017 12:47 PM To: 'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] BN4-BJ7 Distributor Cap Patrick, Here you go ,,,, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2017 4:19 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN4-BJ7 Distributor Cap Hello Would someone have the Lucas number for the six-cylinder distributor cap (BN4 - BJ7) at their fingertips please? Thank you Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Jul 5 03:43:33 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2017 05:43:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN4-BJ7 Distributor Cap References: <02295D346F324A1BB1573B41F075167B@AllInOne> Interesting. Looks like the '63 - 64 3000 was a 4 cylinder, using the same cap and rotor as the Sprite. :) Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/04/2017 10:47 PM, Harold Manifold wrote: > Patrick, > Here you go ,,,, Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Patrick & Caroline Quinn > *Sent:* Tuesday, July 04, 2017 4:19 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] BN4-BJ7 Distributor Cap > > Hello > > Would someone have the Lucas number for the six-cylinder distributor cap > (BN4 ? BJ7) at their fingertips please? > > Thank you > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From jstmorris at yahoo.com Wed Jul 5 09:30:54 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2017 15:30:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Flywheel. References: <20170703180444.GPUY7.476.root@pamxwww04-z01> Good Day Tom.? Attached is a file which highlights the differences in the flywheel for the various models. ?--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada ? ? ? ? - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Monday, July 3, 2017 9:35 PM, Tom Felts wrote: Are the flywheels for a BJ8 different from any other 3000?? If so, how can I be sure it is for a BJ8.? Anyone have a pic you can send me? thanks tom _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Flywheel Identification.doc Type: application/msword Size: 43520 bytes Desc: not available URL: From waschu2 at gmail.com Wed Jul 5 09:43:03 2017 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2017 11:43:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears Hello, I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. Wayne -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2537.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 88085 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2540.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 56820 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Wed Jul 5 10:07:42 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2017 16:07:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN4-BJ7 Distributor Cap References: <006d01d2f51b$e30d56b0$a9280410$@tpg.com.au> Good Day Patrick.? Attached is a file with an overkill on what you need. Also attached is the Lucas 400 catalogue regarding distributors. Enjoy!? :-) And Patrick; you do a fantastic magazine. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Tuesday, July 4, 2017 10:43 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Hello ?Would someone have the Lucas number for the six-cylinder distributor cap (BN4 ? BJ7) at their fingertips please? ?Thank you ?Patrick QuinnBlue Mountains, Australia_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Distributor Data Base w diagrams.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 830979 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Distributor Lucas 400 Catalogue.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 817173 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gablegerry at netscape.net Wed Jul 5 11:29:10 2017 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2017 13:29:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mounts I am having a devil of a time re-aligning the engine mounts on a BN6. They came off the same car not sure we got them on correctly after replacing the rubber and painting. First install the screws were way off the mark. The next two times they are closer but cannot get one side to accept the last two bolts. Frustrated. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Wed Jul 5 17:03:44 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2017 19:03:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN4-BJ7 Distributor Cap References: <006d01d2f51b$e30d56b0$a9280410$@tpg.com.au> Patrick, Try this link. https://www.bpnorthwest.com/distributor-cap-bn4-to-bj7.html Hope this helps. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn To: healeys Sent: Wed, Jul 5, 2017 4:54 am Subject: [Healeys] BN4-BJ7 Distributor Cap Hello ? Would someone have the Lucas number for the six-cylinder distributor cap (BN4 ? BJ7) at their fingertips please? ? Thank you ? Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From javrugtman at htcnet.org Wed Jul 5 19:59:32 2017 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2017 21:59:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Motor Mounts References: <15d13cc6af5-4186-b65a@webprd-m36.mail.aol.com> First thing to know is that they are handed and marked L and R, will not fit if backwards. Paint may have filled the marks. John 64/66 BJ8s On 7/5/2017 1:29 PM, gablegerry at netscape.net wrote: > I am having a devil of a time re-aligning the engine mounts on a BN6. > They came off the same car not sure we got them on correctly after > replacing the rubber and painting. First install the screws were way > off the mark. The next two times they are closer but cannot get one > side to accept the last two bolts. Frustrated. > > > _ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Wed Jul 5 22:10:12 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 04:10:12 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler - Remembering a friend that left us too soon five years ago. Jean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Thu Jul 6 01:35:28 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 17:35:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: Wayne, I have had these in my 3000 for 13 years now with no problems- they do the job John Rowe Qld Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Sent: Thursday, 6 July 2017 1:43 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears Hello, I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. Wayne From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jul 6 04:30:19 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 06:30:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler - References: Good thoughts of old friends Perry Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 6, 2017, at 12:10 AM, Jean Caron wrote: > > Remembering a friend that left us too soon five years ago. > > > Jean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Thu Jul 6 05:13:32 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 07:13:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Traffic Is it me or have the submissions to the list become significantly fewer over the past week or so? John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ggilliam at usol.com Thu Jul 6 06:47:56 2017 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2017 08:47:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Traffic References: <00f701d2f648$e75a51e0$b60ef5a0$@verizon.net> Yes, it is quite quiet....someone needs to ask a question about oil or tires.... On 2017-07-06 07:13, John Sims wrote: > Is it me or have the submissions to the list become significantly fewer over the past week or so? > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Thu Jul 6 07:08:39 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 09:08:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler - He has been missed Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Jean Caron To: AH Mail List Sent: Thu, 06 Jul 2017 00:10:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler - Remembering a friend that left us too soon five years ago. Jean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Thu Jul 6 07:41:03 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 09:41:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: I would use thin AN washers under the head of the AN bolt. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Wayne To: healeys Sent: Wed, Jul 5, 2017 7:12 pm Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears Hello, I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. Wayne _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Thu Jul 6 09:35:16 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2017 08:35:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Traffic References: <00f701d2f648$e75a51e0$b60ef5a0$@verizon.net> Some Healey owners get out of their garages over the 4th of July weekends. -Roland who stayed in his garage BN1 #724 gradually emerging from a 53 year coma On Thu, 6 Jul 2017 07:13:32 -0400, you wrote: >Is it me or have the submissions to the list become significantly fewer over the past week or so? > > > >John Sims > >Aberdeen, NJ > > > >www.healey6.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Thu Jul 6 09:39:00 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2017 08:39:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler - References: Yes, indeed. He was very generous with his expertise, and a good human being. I still rely on my personal archive of many of his postings to the list. -Roland On Thu, 6 Jul 2017 04:10:12 +0000, you wrote: >Remembering a friend that left us too soon five years ago. > > >Jean --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From goldengt at cal.net Thu Jul 6 09:53:22 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 08:53:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Euro 18 meet registration help resolved References: <1245925319.354532.1498578739438.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> <1498587947529.1932180.555dad89e9da93fc72e5820dc028820b34cbb941@spica.telekom.de> <1498633654904.1862942.83d4a04dffa2157ce039d84fa0538512b8567023@spica.telekom.de> I am registered now. The credit card link was found on the bookings page and not the payment instruction page!The web site contact person did contact me and led me to the right page.The next challenge will be the hotel. It seems you can get on a waiting list now, but not really reserve until next month or even after that.Thanks to all. Ken Freese ----- Original Message ----- From: josef-eckert at t-online.de To: Derek Job Cc: goldengt at cal.net, Healeys, Forum Sent: Wed, 28 Jun 2017 00:07:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: AW: [Healeys] Euro 18 meet registration help Derek, There are more than 330 participants, not cars and my latest information from the AH Club UK is there are only about 20 cars entered from the UK so far as they ask 500 Euro per person for registration only.The money goes to the Swiss organisers what ever they do with it.I loved the European Meets and participated to all except one I couldn?t go because of job restricions. But this one is different and nearly all of the British I talked to say we stay away of it. We expect its the last of the European ones as its ffar over the top and not what enthusiasts want.There was the Austin-Healey Club UK one week event in the "real" Black Forest last year we all enjoyed so much which was located in the heart of the Black Forest and not as this one in a not rreally nice area of the Rhine valley in a Holiday park where ten thousands of visitors are each day. There is nothing nice of this place in the nearer surroundings. Mornings and evenings there are huge congestions of visitors cars going in and out. I was born in Freiburg, a couple of miles from the place, and know the area very well as my parents and family still live in Freiburg. Josef -----Original-Nachricht-----Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Euro 18 meet registration helpDatum: 2017-06-28T08:41:04+0200Von: "Derek Job" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" The simplest method is to pay by international bank transfer. This is very simple, just go to your local bank with the Organisation's bank details, which are given on the event's website, and the bank will make the transfer. There are already over 300 cars entered and there will certainly be more than 25 UK cars. Sure its going to cost a bit of money but these European Meetings are excellent, one week events, not your local 'park in a field' cars and coffee! Unique opportunities for Healey lovers to meet people from all over Europe as well as the US and Australia. Derek On Tue, Jun 27, 2017 at 7:25 PM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: Hello Ken, As far as I know its a real challenge to pay by Credit Card. The Swiss organisers expect payment via direct bank transfer. I and many of my friends do not go there as the money asked for taking part is far over our budget. And you have to pay for overnight stay additionally, and its in a huge funpark where its so busy you can?t believe. Not a nice location for a Healey event. The programme is not really inviting. So as far as I know only 20-25 cars are coming over from the UK, even less from Germany. What they say on the Euro 18 booking form is: "already registered but not paid by bank wire, waiting for Credit Card payment solution - you have to register again and proived us your "old" register number (regulatory requirement)" Very strange to understand, even for me as a European, speaking europeanese. Josef EckertKonigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht-----Betreff: [Healeys] Euro 18 meet registration helpDatum: 2017-06-27T18:38:01+0200Von: "goldengt at cal.net" An: "healey list" I can't figure out the European 2018 meet web page on paying with a credit card? No response yet on their contact link. Does someone read europeanese?https://www.euromeet2018.com/registration/payment-instructionThanks,Ken Freese _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jul 6 13:46:33 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 14:46:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] I was out in the garage for a while this week. Hope to see some folks in Waco. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1595.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 39083 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1597.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 36108 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From rick at ewilkins.com Thu Jul 6 15:47:28 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 14:47:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed References: The Toyota Transmission weighs about 75 pounds less, has less parastitic drag drag on the engine (more power to the road), and a reverse light switch. Wilko > On Jul 1, 2017, at 6:25 AM, John O'Brien wrote: > > I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through the archives a bit. My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive which all works as it is supposed to. What is the advantage to converting to the Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? > > John O'Brien > > '61 bugeye "Lucy" > > "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jul 6 16:59:17 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 15:59:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Traffic References: <00f701d2f648$e75a51e0$b60ef5a0$@verizon.net> lol Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jul 6, 2017 at 5:47 AM, wrote: > Yes, it is quite quiet....someone needs to ask a question about oil or > tires.... > > > > On 2017-07-06 07:13, John Sims wrote: > > Is it me or have the submissions to the list become significantly fewer > over the past week or so? > > > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > > > www.healey6.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jul 6 19:00:48 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 20:00:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Getting close to Waco Anyone know were this pub is? Hint: About two hours from Waco Texas. Unfortunately didn't see a Healey anywhere nearby.... Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1632.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 48168 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Jul 6 20:36:59 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock British Car Specialists) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 19:36:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Flywheel. References: <20170703180444.GPUY7.476.root@pamxwww04-z01> All the 6 cylinder flywheels are interchangeable as long as you use the appropriate clutch that goes with that flywheel. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 Enjoy www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs . . Sent from my iPad > On Jul 3, 2017, at 3:04 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > > Are the flywheels for a BJ8 different from any other 3000? If so, how can I be sure it is for a BJ8. Anyone have a pic you can send me? > > thanks > tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jul 6 21:13:37 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 20:13:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed References: <8EC65387-B4BC-4463-9655-3C508CAAB49C@ewilkins.com> fully synchro 5 speed Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jul 6, 2017 at 2:47 PM, Rick Wilkins wrote: > The Toyota Transmission weighs about 75 pounds less, has less parastitic > drag drag on the engine (more power to the road), and a reverse light > switch. > > Wilko > > > > On Jul 1, 2017, at 6:25 AM, John O'Brien wrote: > > I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through the > archives a bit. My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive which > all works as it is supposed to. What is the advantage to converting to the > Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? > > John O'Brien > > '61 bugeye "Lucy" > "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu Jul 6 23:25:49 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 22:25:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Traffic References: <00f701d2f648$e75a51e0$b60ef5a0$@verizon.net> OK, I'll post. Considering that I'm going to have to replace my wiring harness, or at least the portion under the dash and hopefully not the sub-harness to the rear, I'm open to input and suggestions from the list. Why, you ask? A friend, who is an old hot rodder and drag racer (i.e., not real familiar with Healeys), was helping me install the bonnet. I asked him to pull the bonnet release. He pulled a wire instead which set off all manner of smoke and smoldering when I turned on the lights. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2017 4:14 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Traffic Is it me or have the submissions to the list become significantly fewer over the past week or so? John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Thu Jul 6 23:28:33 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 22:28:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed References: <8EC65387-B4BC-4463-9655-3C508CAAB49C@ewilkins.com> Synchro on 1st has got to be the #1 advantage, with 5th OD a close second. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2017 8:14 PM To: Rick Wilkins Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed fully synchro 5 speed Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words The Toyota Transmission weighs about 75 pounds less, has less parastitic drag drag on the engine (more power to the road), and a reverse light switch. Wilko I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through the archives a bit. My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive which all works as it is supposed to. What is the advantage to converting to the Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? John O'Brien '61 bugeye "Lucy" "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jul 6 23:45:37 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2017 22:45:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed References: <8EC65387-B4BC-4463-9655-3C508CAAB49C@ewilkins.com> <044501d2f6e1$e0e25710$a2a70530$@roadrunner.com> When I started the last phase of my resto, I decided to install the 5 spd kit. the great price on a used kit helped so my family could drive the car. My kids are adults and my wife had never driven it because the overdrive switch was scarry and the fact that I double clutched on down shift was intimidating. I did tell her the synchro rings were fine, I just liked to double clutch.' Anyway the 5 spd is less intimidating and cheaper than my oem box and overdrive Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Jul 6, 2017 at 10:28 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > Synchro on 1st has got to be the #1 advantage, with 5th OD a close second. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i > erbs > *Sent:* Thursday, July 06, 2017 8:14 PM > *To:* Rick Wilkins > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed > > > > fully synchro 5 speed > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > On Thu, Jul 6, 2017 at 2:47 PM, Rick Wilkins wrote: > > The Toyota Transmission weighs about 75 pounds less, has less parastitic > drag drag on the engine (more power to the road), and a reverse light > switch. > > > > Wilko > > > > > > > > On Jul 1, 2017, at 6:25 AM, John O'Brien wrote: > > > > I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through the > archives a bit. My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive which > all works as it is supposed to. What is the advantage to converting to the > Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? > > John O'Brien > > '61 bugeye "Lucy" > > "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Jul 7 04:05:00 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 20:05:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: Hi Wayne, >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad plated steel bolts. Nothing special. The Rollmaster bolts you have shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) unbrako style cap head bolts. The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts, not down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we have had no issues reported. Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly rebuilt engine. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: > > Hello, > > I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. > > Wayne > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Jul 7 06:03:56 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 8:03:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed and I'm sure I can find a more powerful engine that weighs less, can find a neat AC system and cruise control. But, there is something to be said for an original Healey with all its drawbacks. tom ---- Rick Wilkins wrote: ============= The Toyota Transmission weighs about 75 pounds less, has less parastitic drag drag on the engine (more power to the road), and a reverse light switch. Wilko > On Jul 1, 2017, at 6:25 AM, John O'Brien wrote: > > I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through the archives a bit. My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive which all works as it is supposed to. What is the advantage to converting to the Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? > > John O'Brien > > '61 bugeye "Lucy" > > "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" > From per at schoerner.se Fri Jul 7 08:00:20 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 16:00:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed References: <8EC65387-B4BC-4463-9655-3C508CAAB49C@ewilkins.com> Hi You can install a reverse light switch on a Healey box, you have to drill a hole and tap it, if it's not there already. I'm talking about BN4/7 side shifters here, don't know about the center shifts. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 6 juli 2017 kl. 23:47 skrev Rick Wilkins : > > The Toyota Transmission weighs about 75 pounds less, has less parastitic drag drag on the engine (more power to the road), and a reverse light switch. > > Wilko > > > > From dwflagg at juno.com Fri Jul 7 08:13:51 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 14:13:51 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed Thanks Tom!! I'm sure Rich would have said the same thing!! doug and I'm sure I can find a more powerful engine that weighs less, can find a neat AC system and cruise control. But, there is something to be said for an original Healey with all its drawbacks. tom ---- Rick Wilkins wrote: ============= The Toyota Transmission weighs about 75 pounds less, has less parastitic drag drag on the engine (more power to the road), and a reverse light switch. Wilko > On Jul 1, 2017, at 6:25 AM, John O'Brien wrote: > > I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through the archives a bit. My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive which all works as it is supposed to. What is the advantage to converting to the Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? > > John O'Brien > > '61 bugeye "Lucy" > > "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ____________________________________________________________ Born Before 1969? You Could Get Extra $2,194 Monthly pros.palmbeachgroup.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/595f973517f7317340ee8st03duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri Jul 7 08:38:42 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 07:38:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed References: <8EC65387-B4BC-4463-9655-3C508CAAB49C@ewilkins.com> <044501d2f6e1$e0e25710$a2a70530$@roadrunner.com> Having just had the trans rebuilt, I can attest to the cheaper part! But, boy does it shift nicely now with the DWR parts! Can?t wait to get the wiring fixed to drive it again! Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: i erbs [mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2017 10:46 PM To: Bruce Steele Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed When I started the last phase of my resto, I decided to install the 5 spd kit. the great price on a used kit helped so my family could drive the car. My kids are adults and my wife had never driven it because the overdrive switch was scarry and the fact that I double clutched on down shift was intimidating. I did tell her the synchro rings were fine, I just liked to double clutch.' Anyway the 5 spd is less intimidating and cheaper than my oem box and overdrive Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Synchro on 1st has got to be the #1 advantage, with 5th OD a close second. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2017 8:14 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed fully synchro 5 speed Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words The Toyota Transmission weighs about 75 pounds less, has less parastitic drag drag on the engine (more power to the road), and a reverse light switch. Wilko I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through the archives a bit. My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive which all works as it is supposed to. What is the advantage to converting to the Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? John O'Brien '61 bugeye "Lucy" "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Jul 7 08:39:17 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 08:39:17 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff, exactly what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a single cam acting on the valves.. dp On 7/7/2017 4:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hi Wayne, > >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad plated steel bolts. Nothing special. > The Rollmaster bolts you have shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) unbrako style cap head bolts. > The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. > If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts, not down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. > Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we have had no issues reported. > Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly rebuilt engine. > Best > Chris > > > > Sent from my iPhone >> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: >> >> Hello, >> >> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. >> >> Wayne >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jul 7 09:34:49 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 08:34:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Traffic References: <00f701d2f648$e75a51e0$b60ef5a0$@verizon.net> <042e01d2f6e1$7f136e20$7d3a4a60$@roadrunner.com> I did it in situ in my BJ8. I replaced a section at a time, cutting out the old wiring then replacing with new, one connector at a time. The only part I couldn't get was the clip in the gearbox tunnel; there was no way to get a screwdriver on it so I just cut out the old wire and tie-wrapped the new to the clip, pending pulling the engine someday. IIRC, the harness is one piece, except for OD and trafficator subharnesses and some pigtails to the front lights; i.e. there is no subharness to the rear. But, except for working under the car the rear portion is actually pretty easy; worst is under the fascia. Do some diagnosis first; it might have been a short section that you can replace or bypass. After I installed mine, I let the smoke out under the fascia--hot lead for a cigar lighter hit metal--but I left it in and have put many thousands of miles on the car since with no problems. Bob On 7/6/2017 10:25 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > OK, I?ll post. Considering that I?m going to have to replace my > wiring harness, or at least the portion under the dash and hopefully > not the sub-harness to the rear, I?m open to input and suggestions > from the list. Why, you ask? A friend, who is an old hot rodder and > drag racer (i.e., not real familiar with Healeys), was helping me > install the bonnet. I asked him to pull the bonnet release. He > pulled a wire instead which set off all manner of smoke and smoldering > when I turned on the lights. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *John Sims > *Sent:* Thursday, July 06, 2017 4:14 AM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Traffic > > Is it me or have the submissions to the list become significantly > fewer over the past week or so? > > John Sims > > Aberdeen, NJ > > www.healey6.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Fri Jul 7 09:35:03 2017 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2017 15:35:03 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] Traffic YIKES!!!!? On Jul 06, 2017, at 11:51 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: OK, I?ll post.? Considering that I?m going to have to replace my wiring harness, or at least the portion under the dash and hopefully not the sub-harness to the rear, I?m open to input and suggestions from the list.? Why, you ask?? A friend, who is an old hot rodder and drag racer (i.e., not real familiar with Healeys), was helping me install the bonnet.? I asked him to pull the bonnet release.? He pulled a wire instead which set off all manner of smoke and smoldering when I turned on the lights.? ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2017 4:14 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Traffic ? Is it me or have the submissions to the list become significantly fewer over the past week or so? ? John Sims Aberdeen, NJ ? www.healey6.com ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dkgraber85 at yahoo.com Fri Jul 7 09:17:02 2017 From: dkgraber85 at yahoo.com (Darin Graber) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 09:17:02 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed References: <20170707080356.EV4FS.2895.root@pamxwww06-z01> ...amen.... Sent from my iPhone 6+ > On Jul 7, 2017, at 6:03 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > > and I'm sure I can find a more powerful engine that weighs less, can find a neat AC system and cruise control. But, there is something to be said for an original Healey with all its drawbacks. > > tom > ---- Rick Wilkins wrote: > > ============= > The Toyota Transmission weighs about 75 pounds less, has less parastitic drag drag on the engine (more power to the road), and a reverse light switch. > > Wilko > > > >> On Jul 1, 2017, at 6:25 AM, John O'Brien wrote: >> >> I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through the archives a bit. My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive which all works as it is supposed to. What is the advantage to converting to the Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? >> >> John O'Brien >> >> '61 bugeye "Lucy" >> >> "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dkgraber85 at yahoo.com > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jul 7 10:33:07 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 16:33:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed References: <20170707.101351.23099.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> I am with Tom also on this.? When the time comes to install the drive train in my BN2, it will be the original 4 speed/overdrive trans.? I want the "Healey" experience when I drive the the car.? If I wanted the smoother easy shifting of a 5 speed, I can just drive my manual Honda Accord.? Besides, leaving it original kind of insures to limit the amount of drivers of the car.? No one knows your car like you do.? That synchro in 2nd gear will last longer that way.? Just my opinion, for what it is worth.Mike MacLean On Friday, July 7, 2017 8:41 AM, "dwflagg at juno.com" wrote: Thanks Tom!! I'm sure Rich would have said the same thing!!?doug and I'm sure I can find a more powerful engine that weighs less, can find a neat AC system and cruise control. ?But, there is something to be said for an original Healey with all its drawbacks. tom ---- Rick Wilkins wrote: ============= The Toyota Transmission weighs about 75 pounds less, has less parastitic drag drag on the engine (more power to the road), and a reverse light switch. Wilko > On Jul 1, 2017, at 6:25 AM, John O'Brien wrote: > > I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through the archives a bit. ?My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive which all works as it is supposed to. ?What is the advantage to converting to the Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? > > John O'Brien > > '61 bugeye "Lucy" > > "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ____________________________________________________________ Born Before 1969? You Could Get Extra $2,194 Monthly pros.palmbeachgroup.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/595f973517f7317340ee8st03duc _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Fri Jul 7 11:40:37 2017 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 17:40:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com>, You can set your cam timing to an exact point. Within a degree or two. with the stock stuff it's more like five degrees. It makes a difference..........................Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of David Porter Sent: Friday, July 7, 2017 8:39 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff, exactly what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a single cam acting on the valves.. dp On 7/7/2017 4:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hi Wayne, > >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad plated steel bolts. Nothing special. > The Rollmaster bolts you have shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) unbrako style cap head bolts. > The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. > If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts, not down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. > Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we have had no issues reported. > Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly rebuilt engine. > Best > Chris > > > > Sent from my iPhone >> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: >> >> Hello, >> >> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. >> >> Wayne >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Jul 7 11:46:04 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 11:46:04 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> oh, so it was a factory bean counter thing... ;~) On 7/7/2017 11:40 AM, Henry Morrison wrote: > > You can set your cam timing to an exact point. Within a degree or > two. with the stock stuff it's more like five degrees. It makes a > difference..........................Henry Morrison > > Sent from Outlook > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of David > Porter > *Sent:* Friday, July 7, 2017 8:39 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears > ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff, > exactly what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a > single cam acting on the valves.. dp > > > On 7/7/2017 4:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > > Hi Wayne, > > >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation > bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad > plated steel bolts. Nothing special. > > The Rollmaster bolts you have shown look to me like grade 8 (150 > KSI) unbrako style cap head bolts. > > The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the > packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. > > If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP > bolts, not down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. > > Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we > have had no issues reported. > > Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly > rebuilt engine. > > Best > > Chris > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: > >> > >> Hello, > >> > >> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after > two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from > Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set > with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on > other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap > screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very robust. > Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the cap > screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has anyone > using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and Loctite > them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one bolt > installed and the hardware side by side. > >> > >> Wayne > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> > >> Healeys at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > > > > > > -- > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM > 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dos_gusanos at msn.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jul 7 14:43:58 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 13:43:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> My builder said it took several degrees of adjustment--dunno which direction--to get my DWR1 cam dialed in to DW's specs. Bob On 7/7/2017 7:39 AM, David Porter wrote: > ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff, > exactly what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a > single cam acting on the valves.. dp > > > On 7/7/2017 4:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: >> Hi Wayne, >> >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation >> bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad >> plated steel bolts. Nothing special. The Rollmaster bolts you have >> shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) unbrako style cap head bolts. >> The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the >> packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. >> If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts, >> not down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. >> Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we >> have had no issues reported. >> Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly >> rebuilt engine. >> Best >> Chris >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >>> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: >>> >>> Hello, >>> >>> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after >>> two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from >>> Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear >>> set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems >>> on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap >>> screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very >>> robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the >>> cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has >>> anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and >>> Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one >>> bolt installed and the hardware side by side. >>> >>> Wayne >>> >>> >> >> >> > From john at jtkarowe.com.au Fri Jul 7 15:33:55 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 07:33:55 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> It allows you to get the cam timing correct when assembling. After that it is no different to normal timing wheel John Rowe Qld Ausralia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Porter Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 12:39 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff, exactly what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a single cam acting on the valves.. dp On 7/7/2017 4:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hi Wayne, > >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad plated steel bolts. Nothing special. > The Rollmaster bolts you have shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) unbrako style cap head bolts. > The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. > If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts, not down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. > Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we have had no issues reported. > Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly rebuilt engine. > Best > Chris > > > > Sent from my iPhone >> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: >> >> Hello, >> >> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. >> >> Wayne >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.co > m > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john at jtkarowe.com.au From frogeye at porterscustom.com Fri Jul 7 16:15:11 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 16:15:11 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> <002401d2f768$bcd9b750$368d25f0$@com.au> I guess my point is that it is a lot of money for 2-3 degrees of valve timing. On 7/7/2017 3:33 PM, John Rowe wrote: > It allows you to get the cam timing correct when assembling. After that it > is no different to normal timing wheel > John Rowe > Qld Ausralia > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David > Porter > Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 12:39 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears > > ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff, exactly > what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a single cam > acting on the valves.. dp > > > On 7/7/2017 4:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: >> Hi Wayne, >> >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation > bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad plated > steel bolts. Nothing special. >> The Rollmaster bolts you have shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) > unbrako style cap head bolts. >> The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the > packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. >> If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts, not > down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. >> Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we have > had no issues reported. >> Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly > rebuilt engine. >> Best >> Chris >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >>> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: >>> >>> Hello, >>> >>> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two > years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at that > time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key > ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I > don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier > gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts > that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent > slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap > screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are > one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. >>> Wayne >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >>> donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.co >> m >> >> >> > -- > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM > 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john at jtkarowe.com.au > > > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ From ahbt71 at gmail.com Fri Jul 7 16:29:24 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 16:29:24 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration. I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour.. Cheers and Thanks Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Rear Shroud.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 30595 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jul 7 16:30:54 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 15:30:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed References: <20170707.101351.23099.0@webmail05.dca.untd.com> Actually, Rich said enjoy your car the way you want it. We communicated often about modern improvements. I am not driving a museum piece. The car has been undated to make it safer and more dependable: Sound and heat insulation instead of tar paper, larger HD8 carbs for more oomph the 5 speed was installed to make it easier for my Adult children and wife to drive the car, addition of a dual usb port to charge my phone, later model Lucas horns as they are louder, other have added bilstein shocks. I have taller tires too. I also added seat belts as the car did not come with them. Yes I do miss the dance of the overdrive switch and kick down, but the weight savings and first gear syncro are really nice. Don't judge, many colors picked or other custom touches are not to my taste, but my car is. Get out and enjoy your ride, or your project getting back on the road. Cheers Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jul 7, 2017 at 7:13 AM, dwflagg at juno.com wrote: > Thanks Tom!! I'm sure Rich would have said the same thing!! > > doug > > and I'm sure I can find a more powerful engine that weighs less, can find > a neat AC system and cruise control. But, there is something to be said > for an original Healey with all its drawbacks. > > tom > ---- Rick Wilkins wrote: > > ============= > The Toyota Transmission weighs about 75 pounds less, has less parastitic > drag drag on the engine (more power to the road), and a reverse light > switch. > > Wilko > > > > > On Jul 1, 2017, at 6:25 AM, John O'Brien wrote: > > > > I've seen threads on the Toyota 5 speed conversion, and looked through > the archives a bit. My BJ8 has the original trans. with the overdrive > which all works as it is supposed to. What is the advantage to converting > to the Toyota 5 speed over using the factory setup? > > > > John O'Brien > > > > '61 bugeye "Lucy" > > > > "65 BJ8 P1 "Madelyn" > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > > > ____________________________________________________________ > *Born Before 1969? You Could Get Extra $2,194 Monthly* > pros.palmbeachgroup.com > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/595f973517f7317340ee8st03duc > [image: SponsoredBy Content.Ad] > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.fawcett at cox.net Fri Jul 7 18:20:12 2017 From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 17:20:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Toyota 5 speed If I had had the original side shift trans in my 1959 BT7, I probably would have spent the money to have it rebuilt, but in my case I had a butchered center shift trans. So I made a financial decision and bought a Toyota 5 speed and a Smitty kit. Having never driven a Healey before, I didn't know what to expect. I made the right decision for me and I have no regrets. Mark Fawcett -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Fri Jul 7 19:16:32 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 01:16:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> , According to Iskendarian You can optimize cam timing either to provide a boost in low end torque by advancing the timing by up to 8 degrees or in high end power by retarding it a similar amount. Since I am looking for a low end boost and will rarely exceed 3500 on the road I set mine 4 degrees in advance. Waiting to see how it works out... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, July 7, 2017 8:43:58 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears My builder said it took several degrees of adjustment--dunno which direction--to get my DWR1 cam dialed in to DW's specs. Bob On 7/7/2017 7:39 AM, David Porter wrote: > ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff, > exactly what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a > single cam acting on the valves.. dp > > > On 7/7/2017 4:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: >> Hi Wayne, >> >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation >> bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad >> plated steel bolts. Nothing special. The Rollmaster bolts you have >> shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) unbrako style cap head bolts. >> The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the >> packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. >> If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts, >> not down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. >> Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we >> have had no issues reported. >> Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly >> rebuilt engine. >> Best >> Chris >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >>> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: >>> >>> Hello, >>> >>> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after >>> two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from >>> Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear >>> set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems >>> on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap >>> screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very >>> robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the >>> cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has >>> anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and >>> Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one >>> bolt installed and the hardware side by side. >>> >>> Wayne >>> >>> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Fri Jul 7 19:53:22 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 13:53:22 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> <002401d2f768$bcd9b750$368d25f0$@com.au> Offset woodruff keys are available and achieve the same result at a fraction of the cost. Downside is you have to figure out out the right offset first, then buy the key, then wait for it to arrive, then continue on. A hydraulically adjustable on-the-fly vernier timing gear would make the Healey engine a very different beast. Hmmm, interesting project. VVT. Anyone ever done it? Andy. On 7/8/17, John Rowe wrote: > It allows you to get the cam timing correct when assembling. After that it > is no different to normal timing wheel > John Rowe > Qld Ausralia > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David > Porter > Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 12:39 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears > > ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff, exactly > what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a single cam > acting on the valves.. dp > From eschulz at frontiernet.net Fri Jul 7 20:17:36 2017 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2017 22:17:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> As being a novice with respect to valve timing, what is the rationale for needing to adjust the valve timing and installing a Roller Master timing kit. What's to be gained over a stock setup? Elton On 7/7/2017 6:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hi Wayne, > >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad plated steel bolts. Nothing special. > The Rollmaster bolts you have shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) unbrako style cap head bolts. > The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. > If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts, not down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. > Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we have had no issues reported. > Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly rebuilt engine. > Best > Chris > > > > Sent from my iPhone >> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: >> >> Hello, >> >> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. >> >> Wayne >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > > From eschulz at frontiernet.net Fri Jul 7 20:35:39 2017 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2017 22:35:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier Timing Gears Subsequent posts have enlightened me regarding the value of adjustable timing gears. Elton From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Jul 7 20:44:17 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 12:44:17 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: Hello If it was plastic based filler it was not applied by the Jensen factory as they only used lead. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration. I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour.. Cheers and Thanks Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 30595 bytes Desc: not available URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Fri Jul 7 20:45:28 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 14:45:28 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Bottom end mods Question for those who have built race engines, what, if anything is necessary for survival at higher rpm in the bottom end of a six cylinder? This is an old race car from the 70s which hasn't run since then and we are getting it back together after it collapsed a piston due to detonation. Previously the bottom end was bone stock apart from Jahns pistons- which don't appear to be of very good quality. I have gone with dome-top Ross forged pistons, will keep with stock rods and crank since it won't be a serious competition car, more of a weekend racer. I know on the A series BMC engine it is common to strap the centre main bearing, is this something worth doing on the six? Any pics? What about camshaft oiling? Most likely will go with a reprofiled original stick, however if there are known issues with this approach then I would look at a replacement. Has anyone experienced a bottom end letting go due to inadequate strength of the stock crank/rods? What about rod bolts, are they available as uprated strength? Flywheel- is the stock lightened manhole cover adequate? What is a safe redline for the stock parts? Appreciate any input/experience from the collective wisdom Andy. From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Fri Jul 7 21:15:57 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 15:15:57 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: Hi Mike, A very common problem there. I had to cut the entire lip off and have another one fashioned and welded back on. TIG welding with a foot pedal is the easiest, however it will crack if not done properly. The old metal doesn't like being welded due to contaminants and corrosion so be prepared to cut it right back to solid metal and fab up patches. Wire brush the old metal with a stainless brush or wire wheel till there is no more corrosion visible. Weld a little, brush a little, weld... brush... weld. The contamination will come out constantly with the heat of welding and if it is too much it will affect the weld strength. A "Power File" is your best friend for working with ali. It seems to work best welding downwards and allowing the pool to sag down while filling it up with filler wire. Then turn it over and grind/brush out any impurities from the seam and weld from the back side over where you just welded to ensure it is uniform. The old metal won't pool nicely like fresh metal- or at least I haven't found a way of getting it to. If there is a line visible on the back side of the weld, it will crack there as soon as you dress down the front side. A bit of practice on old metal will go a long way. I never got good enough at controlling the heat with a MIG on thin material and ended up just blowing holes in it. Andy. On 7/8/17, Mike Tobin wrote: > I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's > the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's > how I'm approaching the restoration. > I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud > with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the > hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to > use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from > corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. > > > I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered > on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with > the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds > showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the > contour.. > > > > Cheers and Thanks Again, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Jul 7 21:22:18 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2017 20:22:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: I had a friend that was restoring a Ferrari and it had a lot of filler and wood shims. He told me that the bodies were shaped by panel beaters from flat sheets. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: Friday, July 7, 2017 3:29 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration. I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour.. Cheers and Thanks Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 30595 bytes Desc: not available URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Fri Jul 7 23:47:27 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 15:47:27 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> <002401d2f768$bcd9b750$368d25f0$@com.au> <5f57c60a-ca8e-a03a-5c80-78b868043540@porterscustom.com> I don't think it's a lot of money. Our Club sells the Rollmaster double row timing gears (crank and cam gears); Vernier adjustable, with the best Iwis pro series German chain, for $AU265 That's about $200 USD. If you're happy to get it right within a tooth, then you probably still need to replace your 50 - 60 year old timing gears and timing chain. Which I think will cost you about the same if they aren't Chinese or Indian. As John said, once it's bolted up, it's the same. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 8 Jul. 2017, at 8:15 am, David Porter wrote: > > I guess my point is that it is a lot of money for 2-3 degrees of valve timing. > > >> On 7/7/2017 3:33 PM, John Rowe wrote: >> It allows you to get the cam timing correct when assembling. After that it >> is no different to normal timing wheel >> John Rowe >> Qld Ausralia >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David >> Porter >> Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 12:39 AM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears >> >> ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff, exactly >> what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a single cam >> acting on the valves.. dp >> >> >>> On 7/7/2017 4:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: >>> Hi Wayne, >>> >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation >> bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad plated >> steel bolts. Nothing special. >>> The Rollmaster bolts you have shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) >> unbrako style cap head bolts. >>> The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the >> packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. >>> If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts, not >> down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. >>> Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we have >> had no issues reported. >>> Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly >> rebuilt engine. >>> Best >>> Chris >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: >>>> >>>> Hello, >>>> >>>> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two >> years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at that >> time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key >> ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I >> don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier >> gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts >> that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent >> slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap >> screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are >> one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. >>>> Wayne >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >>>> donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >>> donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.co >>> m >>> >>> >>> >> -- >> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM >> 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation >> $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john at jtkarowe.com.au >> >> >> > > -- > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > From john at jtkarowe.com.au Sat Jul 8 02:40:50 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 18:40:50 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration. I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour.. Cheers and Thanks Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 30595 bytes Desc: not available URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sat Jul 8 08:01:12 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 10:01:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! Keith -----Original Message----- From: John Rowe To: 'Mike Tobin' ; healeys Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration. I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour.. Cheers and Thanks Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 30595 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sat Jul 8 08:41:30 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 14:41:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: , This is pretty difficult repair and would need some good expertise with aluminum welding. One has to start with solid metal, as someone already alluded to in a previous post and cut it back until you are on solid and clean metal. Then I'd contact the following place and have them make me the shroud repair edge; davehardwick.co.uk they make fantastic panels and all sort of needed Healey sheet metal and they fabricate it in-house with proper tooling. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of A H List Sent: July 8, 2017 3:15 AM To: Mike Tobin Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. Hi Mike, A very common problem there. I had to cut the entire lip off and have another one fashioned and welded back on. TIG welding with a foot pedal is the easiest, however it will crack if not done properly. The old metal doesn't like being welded due to contaminants and corrosion so be prepared to cut it right back to solid metal and fab up patches. Wire brush the old metal with a stainless brush or wire wheel till there is no more corrosion visible. Weld a little, brush a little, weld... brush... weld. The contamination will come out constantly with the heat of welding and if it is too much it will affect the weld strength. A "Power File" is your best friend for working with ali. It seems to work best welding downwards and allowing the pool to sag down while filling it up with filler wire. Then turn it over and grind/brush out any impurities from the seam and weld from the back side over where you just welded to ensure it is uniform. The old metal won't pool nicely like fresh metal- or at least I haven't found a way of getting it to. If there is a line visible on the back side of the weld, it will crack there as soon as you dress down the front side. A bit of practice on old metal will go a long way. I never got good enough at controlling the heat with a MIG on thin material and ended up just blowing holes in it. Andy. On 7/8/17, Mike Tobin wrote: > I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's > the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's > how I'm approaching the restoration. > I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud > with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the > hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to > use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from > corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. > > > I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered > on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with > the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds > showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the > contour.. > > > > Cheers and Thanks Again, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Jul 8 10:11:25 2017 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 09:11:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: Tocvd8ADoSavnTocwdwW1A Hello, I am surprised with the number of comments this topic has attracted. I am in the process of rebuilding a 29D series AH 3000 engine and purchased vernier cam gears from AH Spares some months ago. The engine is not finished yet but the AH Spares cam gears are well made and I thought I would list the reasons why I bought them. My situation might not apply in all cases but it is one perspective: The engine was in poor condition and is undergoing a full and complete rebuild but every indication is it led a hard life and was not well cared for. The condition of the original cam chain and gears was unknown and new replacement parts are not expensive compared to the cost of the rebuild. The original cam has been reground to the BJ8 profile which changes the duration and the lift. Once the cam is changed or modified vernier cam gears are almost a must to get accurate cam timing no matter what the desired timing is. The rocker arm assembly was completely rebuilt and re-chromed and this will affect the valve timing as well. The professional engine builder I am working with has rebuild many AH engines and can attest to the benefits of optimising the cam timing which can only be done with adjustable gears. My car will be a daily driver but will have more HP than stock. Bye for now.... Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2017 6:41 AM To: waschu2 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears I would use thin AN washers under the head of the AN bolt. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Wayne To: healeys Sent: Wed, Jul 5, 2017 7:12 pm Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears Hello, I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. Wayne _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jul 8 11:59:35 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 10:59:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> <002401d2f768$bcd9b750$368d25f0$@com.au> <5f57c60a-ca8e-a03a-5c80-78b868043540@porterscustom.com> <5AA1F450-99CB-467D-A94C-DBE3DB9D5359@gmail.com> And this is for a complete timing set (crank and cam gears and a chain). Moss sells an adjustable cam gear (only) for $491.99; though it does look like it might have more adjustment available. Moss's regular cam and crank gears and 'upgraded' chain come to $175.97 (their 'regular' chain was $11.49--hmmmm). It was a no-brainer for me to get the Rollmaster. My engine builder said they use RM in a lot of their builds. Shipping from Down Under was about $85, though, IIRC. Bob On 7/7/2017 10:47 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > I don't think it's a lot of money. > Our Club sells the Rollmaster double row timing gears (crank and cam gears); Vernier adjustable, with the best Iwis pro series German chain, for $AU265 > That's about $200 USD. > If you're happy to get it right within a tooth, then you probably still need to replace your 50 - 60 year old timing gears and timing chain. Which I think will cost you about the same if they aren't Chinese or Indian. > As John said, once it's bolted up, it's the same. > Best > Chris > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On 8 Jul. 2017, at 8:15 am, David Porter wrote: >> >> I guess my point is that it is a lot of money for 2-3 degrees of valve timing. >> >> From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jul 8 12:03:20 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 11:03:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <9EF0582623BD4683818A75304C326380@AllInOne> re: " ...The original cam has been reground to the BJ8 profile which changes the duration and the lift. Once the cam is changed or modified vernier cam gears are almost a must to get accurate cam timing no matter what the desired timing is. ..." Excellent point; presumably, the original, fixed setup would only be correct with bone stock parts? On 7/8/2017 9:11 AM, Harold Manifold wrote: > Hello, > I am surprised with the number of comments this topic has attracted. I > am in the process of rebuilding a 29D series AH 3000 engine and > purchased vernier cam gears from AH Spares some months ago. The engine > is not finished yet but the AH Spares cam gears are well made and I > thought I would list the reasons why I bought them. My situation might > not apply in all cases but it is one perspective: > The engine was in poor condition and is undergoing a full and complete > rebuild but every indication is it led a hard life and was not well > cared for. The condition of the original cam chain and gears was > unknown and new replacement parts are not expensive compared to the > cost of the rebuild. > The original cam has been reground to the BJ8 profile which changes > the duration and the lift. Once the cam is changed or modified vernier > cam gears are almost a must to get accurate cam timing no matter what > the desired timing is. > The rocker arm assembly was completely rebuilt and re-chromed and this > will affect the valve timing as well. > The professional engine builder I am working with has rebuild many AH > engines and can attest to the benefits of optimising the cam timing > which can only be done with adjustable gears. My car will be a daily > driver but will have more HP than stock. > Bye for now.... Harold > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *warthodson at aol.com > *Sent:* Thursday, July 06, 2017 6:41 AM > *To:* waschu2 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears > > I would use thin AN washers under the head of the AN bolt. > Gary Hodson > -----Original Message----- > From: Wayne > To: healeys > Sent: Wed, Jul 5, 2017 7:12 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears > > Hello, > > I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two > years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at > that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with > multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other > rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap screws used > to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in > aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the cap screws with and > safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has anyone using this kit had > problems? I could keep the cap screws and Loctite them. This is a > street car, not a race car. Pictures are one bolt installed and the > hardware side by side. > > Wayne > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Jul 8 13:43:05 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 13:43:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> I guess my point in generating some "traffic" is best expressed by Mr. Lawrence. With a single cam acting on the valve timing, one can set it close to factory or deviate a couple degrees advanced or retarded for low end torque or high rpm breathing. It is still a trade off versus a twin cam head where both can be affected and gains can be easily (?) obtained for both instances he states. Not too sure we all have easy access to a dyno. These old long stroke 6/4's were designed for grunt. That would be the wise choice. They don't like to be spun up much, then the Welch crank would be necessary. $$ dave On 7/7/2017 7:16 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > According to Iskendarian You can optimize cam timing either to provide > a boost in low end torque by advancing the timing by up to 8 > degrees or in high end power by retarding it a similar amount. > > > Since I am looking for a low end boost and will rarely exceed 3500 on > the road I set mine 4 degrees in advance. > > > Waiting to see how it works out... > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Friday, July 7, 2017 8:43:58 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears > My builder said it took several degrees of adjustment--dunno which > direction--to get my DWR1 cam dialed in to DW's specs. > > Bob > > > On 7/7/2017 7:39 AM, David Porter wrote: > > ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff, > > exactly what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a > > single cam acting on the valves.. dp > > > > > > On 7/7/2017 4:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > >> Hi Wayne, > >> >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation > >> bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad > >> plated steel bolts. Nothing special. The Rollmaster bolts you have > >> shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) unbrako style cap head bolts. > >> The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the > >> packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. > >> If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts, > >> not down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. > >> Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we > >> have had no issues reported. > >> Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly > >> rebuilt engine. > >> Best > >> Chris > >> > >> > >> > >> Sent from my iPhone > >>> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: > >>> > >>> Hello, > >>> > >>> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after > >>> two years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from > >>> Moss at that time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear > >>> set with multiple key ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems > >>> on other rebuilds. What I don't like about this set is that the cap > >>> screws used to clamp the vernier gear to the hub are not very > >>> robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts that I can replace the > >>> cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent slippage. Has > >>> anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap screws and > >>> Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures are one > >>> bolt installed and the hardware side by side. > >>> > >>> Wayne > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmags at cox.net Sat Jul 8 13:49:49 2017 From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 14:49:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] shroud repair Agree with the others; TIG is the only way to go and done by a professional. I had a friend repair mine; he was a professional welder and used to working with aluminum and had his own shop. He made it look easy, but unlike the steel welding that I did on the other parts of the car, this was one job that I did want to tackle. Too easy to end up doing more damage than good. Frank Sent from my iPad From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jul 8 13:59:55 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 12:59:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cams - Was: Re: Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> I never understood the advantage of 'twin' cams (assuming two cams per bank of cylinders, one for intake and one for exhaust). Can't the same results come from lobe profiles; i.e. one profile for intake and one for exhaust, on the same cam? All the twin cam setups I've seen have both cams driven by the same belt, so timing will be the same for both cams. Is this idea just to have less 'load' for each cam? What does make sense to me is variable cam timing. My Mustang accelerates smoothly and seamlessly, but on coasting deceleration there is a noticeable 'bump' down in RPM around 1,800-2,000 RPM as the ECU changes--advances?--the cam timing, but it only has one cam per bank. I know the Honda VTEC engines have a third lobe, that only comes into play at higher speeds (thanks Edd!). On 7/8/2017 12:43 PM, David Porter wrote: > > I guess my point in generating some "traffic" is best expressed by Mr. > Lawrence. With a single cam acting on the valve timing, one can set it > close to factory or deviate a couple degrees advanced or retarded for > low end torque or high rpm breathing. It is still a trade off versus a > twin cam head where both can be affected and gains can be easily (?) > obtained for both instances he states. Not too sure we all have easy > access to a dyno. These old long stroke 6/4's were designed for grunt. > That would be the wise choice. They don't like to be spun up much, > then the Welch crank would be necessary. $$ dave > > > On 7/7/2017 7:16 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >> >> According to Iskendarian You can optimize cam timing either to >> provide a boost in low end torque by advancing the timing by up to 8 >> degrees or in high end power by retarding it a similar amount. >> >> >> Since I am looking for a low end boost and will rarely exceed 3500 on >> the road I set mine 4 degrees in advance. >> >> >> Waiting to see how it works out... >> >> >> Bill Lawrence >> >> BN1 #554 >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Jul 8 15:54:32 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 07:54:32 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Bottom end mods References: Hi Andy, My best advice is to start at https://www.bighealey.co.uk/engines/3000-bottom-end The issue with stock rods is the bolts. Have a look at them. 7/16 x 2.5 inches long. I have recently worked out you can machine Pontiac ones to fit, but I haven't tried them yet. A standard crank and rod setup (with forged pistons, aftermarket harmonic balancer, crank & rods lightened and hardened) should be kept to around 6,000rpm. There is a major harmonic at around 6,200 - 6,300 A modern steel aftermarket crank & rods can be revved to 6,500 - 7,500 all day. Denis Welch pulled 8,500 rpm on Conrod Straight at Bathurst in 1998 in the heat of battle with Peter Hopwood, to retake the race lead. You know why it's called Conrod straight? Lots of broken ones..... You should also seriously consider the gun drilled cam from DWR. This design is also popular and available for the A series. Cam wear and cam follower wear is the biggest single issue - even in stock road engines - due to the splash, drip and pray oiling system for lobes and gears. Here are my specs & Dyno sheets from 1998. http://www.myaustinhealey.com/dyno_sheet.html Best Chris > On 8 Jul. 2017, at 12:45 pm, A H List wrote: > > Question for those who have built race engines, what, if anything is > necessary for survival at higher rpm in the bottom end of a six > cylinder? This is an old race car from the 70s which hasn't run since > then and we are getting it back together after it collapsed a piston > due to detonation. > > Previously the bottom end was bone stock apart from Jahns pistons- > which don't appear to be of very good quality. I have gone with > dome-top Ross forged pistons, will keep with stock rods and crank > since it won't be a serious competition car, more of a weekend racer. > > I know on the A series BMC engine it is common to strap the centre > main bearing, is this something worth doing on the six? Any pics? > > What about camshaft oiling? Most likely will go with a reprofiled > original stick, however if there are known issues with this approach > then I would look at a replacement. > > Has anyone experienced a bottom end letting go due to inadequate > strength of the stock crank/rods? What about rod bolts, are they > available as uprated strength? > > Flywheel- is the stock lightened manhole cover adequate? > > What is a safe redline for the stock parts? > > Appreciate any input/experience from the collective wisdom > > Andy. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jul 8 16:09:28 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 15:09:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so and fill it with some mesh. A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they must help some. Bob From john at jtkarowe.com.au Sat Jul 8 19:28:16 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 11:28:16 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Cams - Was: Re: Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> <330ff940-a594-6899-8488-5985e7c7902a@comcast.net> Not sure of the advantages, by my Alfa Romeo GTV is definitely a nicer engine than either of the Healeys or any single cam Japanese car I've driven John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, 9 July 2017 6:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Cams - Was: Re: Vernier timing gears I never understood the advantage of 'twin' cams (assuming two cams per bank of cylinders, one for intake and one for exhaust). Can't the same results come from lobe profiles; i.e. one profile for intake and one for exhaust, on the same cam? All the twin cam setups I've seen have both cams driven by the same belt, so timing will be the same for both cams. Is this idea just to have less 'load' for each cam? What does make sense to me is variable cam timing. My Mustang accelerates smoothly and seamlessly, but on coasting deceleration there is a noticeable 'bump' down in RPM around 1,800-2,000 RPM as the ECU changes--advances?--the cam timing, but it only has one cam per bank. I know the Honda VTEC engines have a third lobe, that only comes into play at higher speeds (thanks Edd!). On 7/8/2017 12:43 PM, David Porter wrote: I guess my point in generating some "traffic" is best expressed by Mr. Lawrence. With a single cam acting on the valve timing, one can set it close to factory or deviate a couple degrees advanced or retarded for low end torque or high rpm breathing. It is still a trade off versus a twin cam head where both can be affected and gains can be easily (?) obtained for both instances he states. Not too sure we all have easy access to a dyno. These old long stroke 6/4's were designed for grunt. That would be the wise choice. They don't like to be spun up much, then the Welch crank would be necessary. $$ dave On 7/7/2017 7:16 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: According to Iskendarian You can optimize cam timing either to provide a boost in low end torque by advancing the timing by up to 8 degrees or in high end power by retarding it a similar amount. Since I am looking for a low end boost and will rarely exceed 3500 on the road I set mine 4 degrees in advance. Waiting to see how it works out... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 _____ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From amalin at mac.com Sat Jul 8 20:49:33 2017 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2017 22:49:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector References: <2ffe88ff-234d-65fe-27d2-a68e1f4292b0@comcast.net> Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 > On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so and fill it with some mesh. > > A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they must help some. > > Bob > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: _MG_0531.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 134919 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jul 8 21:05:42 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 20:05:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector References: <2ffe88ff-234d-65fe-27d2-a68e1f4292b0@comcast.net> Nice! Is that an available kit? Bob On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: > Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 > > > >> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell > >> I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, >> over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the >> back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind >> deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big >> Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot >> or so and fill it with some mesh. >> >> A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his >> wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they >> must help some. >> >> Bob >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0525.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196411 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0526.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 143325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0528.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 192966 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0530.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 166210 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0531.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 134919 bytes Desc: not available URL: From amalin at mac.com Sat Jul 8 21:15:02 2017 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2017 23:15:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector References: <2ffe88ff-234d-65fe-27d2-a68e1f4292b0@comcast.net> This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. Tricarb Al Malin > On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Nice! Is that an available kit? > > Bob > > On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: >> Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 >> >> >> >> >>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> >>> I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so and fill it with some mesh. >>> >>> A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they must help some. >>> >>> Bob >>> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0525.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196411 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0526.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 143325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0528.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 192966 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0530.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 166210 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0531.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 134919 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cfrazer at uoregon.edu Sat Jul 8 23:49:41 2017 From: cfrazer at uoregon.edu (Charlie Frazer) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 22:49:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector References: <2ffe88ff-234d-65fe-27d2-a68e1f4292b0@comcast.net> <92F7A2D5-EFF5-4C24-A0AD-A318EC00452C@mac.com> Someone in the Oregon club has one that only uses the tonneau bar slots. Not sure if he made it himself or had it fabbed. I?ll ask him for pictures. Charlie Frazer AHCO On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. Tricarb Al Malin > On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Nice! Is that an available kit? > > Bob > > On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: >> Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 >> >> <_MG_0525.jpg><_MG_0526.jpg><_MG_0528.jpg><_MG_0530.jpg><_MG_0531.jpg> >> >> >>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> >>> I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so and fill it with some mesh. >>> >>> A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they must help some. >>> >>> Bob >>> >> > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Jul 9 03:38:17 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 11:38:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Cams - Was: Re: Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> <330ff940-a594-6899-8488-5985e7c7902a@comcast.net> <000f01d2f852$a4103ce0$ec30b6a0$@com.au> As you do not have rockers in a twin cam set up you can allow higher RPM without the need of stiffer valve springs. It is also easier to play around with the valve timing as you can set up inlet and exhaust cam separately. You can also create a better shape of the combusting chamber and a multivalve set up, i.e. better breathing. This is shown by many of the racing engines already developped in early motor history and also in most powerful modern engines with a high specific output. Kees Oudesluijs. Op 9-7-2017 om 3:28 schreef John Rowe: > > Not sure of the advantages, by my Alfa Romeo GTV is definitely a nicer > engine than either of the Healeys or any single cam Japanese car I?ve > driven > > John Rowe > > Qld Australia > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Sunday, 9 July 2017 6:00 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Cams - Was: Re: Vernier timing gears > > I never understood the advantage of 'twin' cams (assuming two cams per > bank of cylinders, one for intake and one for exhaust). Can't the > same results come from lobe profiles; i.e. one profile for intake and > one for exhaust, on the same cam? All the twin cam setups I've seen > have both cams driven by the same belt, so timing will be the same for > both cams. Is this idea just to have less 'load' for each cam? > > What does make sense to me is variable cam timing. My Mustang > accelerates smoothly and seamlessly, but on coasting deceleration > there is a noticeable 'bump' down in RPM around 1,800-2,000 RPM as the > ECU changes--advances?--the cam timing, but it only has one cam per > bank. I know the Honda VTEC engines have a third lobe, that only > comes into play at higher speeds (thanks Edd!). > > On 7/8/2017 12:43 PM, David Porter wrote: > > I guess my point in generating some "traffic" is best expressed by > Mr. Lawrence. With a single cam acting on the valve timing, one > can set it close to factory or deviate a couple degrees advanced > or retarded for low end torque or high rpm breathing. It is still > a trade off versus a twin cam head where both can be affected and > gains can be easily (?) obtained for both instances he states. Not > too sure we all have easy access to a dyno. These old long stroke > 6/4's were designed for grunt. That would be the wise choice. They > don't like to be spun up much, then the Welch crank would be > necessary. $$ dave > > On 7/7/2017 7:16 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > According to Iskendarian You can optimize cam timing either to > provide a boost in low end torque by advancing the timing by > up to 8 degrees or in high end power by retarding it a similar > amount. > > Since I am looking for a low end boost and will rarely exceed > 3500 on the road I set mine 4 degrees in advance. > > Waiting to see how it works out... > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jul 9 08:49:19 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 07:49:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector References: <2ffe88ff-234d-65fe-27d2-a68e1f4292b0@comcast.net> <92F7A2D5-EFF5-4C24-A0AD-A318EC00452C@mac.com> <32963D11-84C4-4179-81E2-144D2AEEF4BE@uoregon.edu> I think John made his and George has one two. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Jul 8, 2017 11:57 PM, "Charlie Frazer" wrote: Someone in the Oregon club has one that only uses the tonneau bar slots. Not sure if he made it himself or had it fabbed. I?ll ask him for pictures. Charlie Frazer AHCO On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. Tricarb Al Malin On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Nice! Is that an available kit? Bob On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 <_MG_0525.jpg><_MG_0526.jpg><_MG_0528.jpg><_MG_0530.jpg><_MG_0531.jpg> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so and fill it with some mesh. A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they must help some. Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys uoregon.edu _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydan at wowway.com Sun Jul 9 12:23:12 2017 From: healeydan at wowway.com (Daniel White) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 14:23:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Wind deflector I prefer the look of the WW I flying helmet. Dan White 1962 BN7 MK II -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jul 9 13:20:03 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 12:20:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector References: <2ffe88ff-234d-65fe-27d2-a68e1f4292b0@comcast.net> <92F7A2D5-EFF5-4C24-A0AD-A318EC00452C@mac.com> This looks to be it: https://www.justroadster.com/products/austin-healey-3000-wind-deflector-1959-1967-black On 7/8/2017 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: > This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. > > Tricarb > Al Malin > >> On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell > >> Nice! Is that an available kit? >> >> Bob >> >> On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: >>> Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell >>> >>>> I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, >>>> over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on >>>> the back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a >>>> wind deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a >>>> Big Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a >>>> foot or so and fill it with some mesh. >>>> >>>> A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his >>>> wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they >>>> must help some. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0525.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196411 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0526.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 143325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: _MG_0531.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 134919 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mgcharlie at comcast.net Sun Jul 9 20:00:28 2017 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 22:00:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector References: <2ffe88ff-234d-65fe-27d2-a68e1f4292b0@comcast.net> <92F7A2D5-EFF5-4C24-A0AD-A318EC00452C@mac.com> <32963D11-84C4-4179-81E2-144D2AEEF4BE@uoregon.edu> How about Paul and Ringo? ;-) On 7/9/2017 10:49 AM, i erbs wrote: > I think John made his and George has one two. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > On Jul 8, 2017 11:57 PM, "Charlie Frazer" > Someone in the Oregon club has one that only uses the tonneau bar > slots. > Not sure if he made it himself or had it fabbed. > I?ll ask him for pictures. > Charlie Frazer > AHCO > > On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Al Malin > This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk > about it. > > Tricarb > Al Malin > >> On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell > >> Nice! Is that an available kit? >> >> Bob >> >> On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: >>> Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 >>> >>> <_MG_0525.jpg><_MG_0526.jpg><_MG_0528.jpg><_MG_0530.jpg><_MG_0531.jpg> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell >>> >>>> I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, >>>> but sometimes, over the course of 8+ hours of driving the >>>> constant wind blast on the back of my head gets, well, >>>> uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, similar to >>>> what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm >>>> thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so >>>> and fill it with some mesh. >>>> >>>> A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he >>>> said his wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a >>>> deflector, so they must help some. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cfrazer at uoregon.edu > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cfrazer at uoregon.edu Mon Jul 10 00:54:04 2017 From: cfrazer at uoregon.edu (Charlie Frazer) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 23:54:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector References: <2ffe88ff-234d-65fe-27d2-a68e1f4292b0@comcast.net> <92F7A2D5-EFF5-4C24-A0AD-A318EC00452C@mac.com> <32963D11-84C4-4179-81E2-144D2AEEF4BE@uoregon.edu> <5734c3b2-b9c8-766a-b0b2-16e09df633d5@comcast.net> Neither one of them is in the Oregon club. On Jul 9, 2017, at 7:00 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: How about Paul and Ringo? ;-) On 7/9/2017 10:49 AM, i erbs wrote: > I think John made his and George has one two. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > On Jul 8, 2017 11:57 PM, "Charlie Frazer" wrote: > Someone in the Oregon club has one that only uses the tonneau bar slots. > Not sure if he made it himself or had it fabbed. > I?ll ask him for pictures. > Charlie Frazer > AHCO > > On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: > > This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. > > Tricarb > Al Malin > >> On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> Nice! Is that an available kit? >> >> Bob >> >> On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: >>> Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 >>> >>> <_MG_0525.jpg><_MG_0526.jpg><_MG_0528.jpg><_MG_0530.jpg><_MG_0531.jpg> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>> >>>> I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so and fill it with some mesh. >>>> >>>> A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they must help some. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cfrazer at uoregon.edu > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Jul 10 06:19:39 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 08:19:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector References: <2ffe88ff-234d-65fe-27d2-a68e1f4292b0@comcast.net> <92F7A2D5-EFF5-4C24-A0AD-A318EC00452C@mac.com> <32963D11-84C4-4179-81E2-144D2AEEF4BE@uoregon.edu> <5734c3b2-b9c8-766a-b0b2-16e09df633d5@comcast.net> No deflector here. On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 10:00 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > How about Paul and Ringo? ;-) > > On 7/9/2017 10:49 AM, i erbs wrote: > > I think John made his and George has one two. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > On Jul 8, 2017 11:57 PM, "Charlie Frazer" wrote: > > Someone in the Oregon club has one that only uses the tonneau bar slots. > Not sure if he made it himself or had it fabbed. > I?ll ask him for pictures. > Charlie Frazer > AHCO > > On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: > > This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. > > Tricarb > Al Malin > > On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Nice! Is that an available kit? > > Bob > > On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: > > Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 > > <_MG_0525.jpg><_MG_0526.jpg><_MG_0528.jpg><_MG_0530.jpg><_MG_0531.jpg> > > > > On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, over > the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the back of > my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, > similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm > thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so and fill > it with some mesh. > > A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his wife > wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they must help > some. > > Bob > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cfrazer at uoregon.edu > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: paul.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 14428 bytes Desc: not available URL: From amalin at mac.com Mon Jul 10 09:36:58 2017 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 11:36:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector References: <2ffe88ff-234d-65fe-27d2-a68e1f4292b0@comcast.net> <92F7A2D5-EFF5-4C24-A0AD-A318EC00452C@mac.com> <32963D11-84C4-4179-81E2-144D2AEEF4BE@uoregon.edu> <5734c3b2-b9c8-766a-b0b2-16e09df633d5@comcast.net> Saw one yesterday on an MG. He got it from Race Land. They don?t list one for a Healey but maybe you can find another brand that fits. They look reasonably priced. https://raceland.com/windblockers.html Al Malin Tricarb > On Jul 10, 2017, at 2:54 AM, Charlie Frazer wrote: > > Neither one of them is in the Oregon club. > > On Jul 9, 2017, at 7:00 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > > How about Paul and Ringo? ;-) > > On 7/9/2017 10:49 AM, i erbs wrote: >> I think John made his and George has one two. >> >> Ira Erbs >> 1959 100-6 >> MKI engine and disc brakes >> excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. >> Portland,OR >> >> On Jul 8, 2017 11:57 PM, "Charlie Frazer" wrote: >> Someone in the Oregon club has one that only uses the tonneau bar slots. >> Not sure if he made it himself or had it fabbed. >> I?ll ask him for pictures. >> Charlie Frazer >> AHCO >> >> On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: >> >> This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. >> >> Tricarb >> Al Malin >> >>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> >>> Nice! Is that an available kit? >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: >>>> Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 >>>> >>>> <_MG_0525.jpg><_MG_0526.jpg><_MG_0528.jpg><_MG_0530.jpg><_MG_0531.jpg> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>>> >>>>> I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so and fill it with some mesh. >>>>> >>>>> A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they must help some. >>>>> >>>>> Bob >>>>> >>>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cfrazer at uoregon.edu >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support >> Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Forums: >> http://www.team.net/forums >> >> >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cfrazer at uoregon.edu > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com > From RFBegani at speakeasy.net Mon Jul 10 09:53:44 2017 From: RFBegani at speakeasy.net (Robert F. Begani) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 11:53:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wind Deflector References: <2ffe88ff-234d-65fe-27d2-a68e1f4292b0@comcast.net> <92F7A2D5-EFF5-4C24-A0AD-A318EC00452C@mac.com> LbCarco.com has the same MG shows it fits Healey's. Bob Begani BJ8 67 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, July 9, 2017 3:20 PM To: Al Malin Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wind Deflector This looks to be it: https://www.justroadster.com/products/austin-healey-3000-wind-deflector-1959 -1967-black On 7/8/2017 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. Tricarb Al Malin On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196411 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 143325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 192966 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 166210 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 134919 bytes Desc: not available URL: From warthodson at aol.com Mon Jul 10 11:11:43 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 13:11:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine question My 100 engine was disassembled when I purchased the car. I am about to begin the rebuilding of a BN-1 engine, so I have been taking stock of what I have & what I need. This invariably leads to surprises & questions. I have been told that the 100 dipstick is intended to be pushed in until the end of the dipstick hits the bottom of the oil pan. I assume this is true because the dipstick does not have any "stop" build into it. I discovered that I have (2) dipsticks as follows: 1. 2.5" from tip to "Max" mark. Overall length 18" 2. 3.1875" from tip to "Max" mark. overall length 19" Did the 100 have different depth oil pans? Are either of these dipsticks correct 100 dipsticks? On a related question, at a recent club meeting a member stated that his mechanic said the reason 100 engines leak oil is because when they are filled to the "Max" mark the level of oil in the pan will be above the "rear seal" (I assume he meant the factory Archimedes screw type seal) & therefore the oil will leak out until the level is below the bottom of the rear seal. Is there any truth to this? Gary Hodson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Mon Jul 10 12:23:44 2017 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 18:23:44 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au>, <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered back in to shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get bondo over the tops of them. I have never seen any "factory applied" filler in any of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC factory ever used it. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Keith Pennell Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM To: john at jtkarowe.com.au; ahbt71 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! Keith -----Original Message----- From: John Rowe To: 'Mike Tobin' ; healeys Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair John Rowe Qld Australia Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration. I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour.. [X] Cheers and Thanks Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Jul 10 13:21:47 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 13:21:47 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine question References: <15d2d7c3fba-6eba-24001@webprd-a11.mail.aol.com> Gary, fill it to the factory recommended amount, then check the levels on the dip sticks. FWIW.. if you delete replacing the large oil return tube on the rear main they seem to leak less after shut down. It won't affect anything. Dave On 7/10/2017 11:11 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > My 100 engine was disassembled when I purchased the car. > I am about to begin the rebuilding of a BN-1 engine, so I have been > taking stock of what I have & what I need. This invariably leads to > surprises & questions. > I have been told that the 100 dipstick is intended to be pushed in > until the end of the dipstick hits the bottom of the oil pan. I assume > this is true because the dipstick does not have any "stop" build into it. > I discovered that I have (2) dipsticks as follows: > 1. 2.5" from tip to "Max" mark. Overall length 18" > 2. 3.1875" from tip to "Max" mark. overall length 19" > Did the 100 have different depth oil pans? Are either of these > dipsticks correct 100 dipsticks? > On a related question, at a recent club meeting a member stated that > his mechanic said the reason 100 engines leak oil is because when they > are filled to the "Max" mark the level of oil in the pan will be above > the "rear seal" (I assume he meant the factory Archimedes screw type > seal) & therefore the oil will leak out until the level is below the > bottom of the rear seal. Is there any truth to this? > Gary Hodson > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jc9821 at msn.com Mon Jul 10 15:27:40 2017 From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 21:27:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 208 References: John made it himself. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, July 10, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 208 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Wind deflector (Daniel White) 2. Re: Wind Deflector (Bob Spidell) 3. Re: Wind Deflector (Charlie Baldwin) 4. Re: Wind Deflector (Charlie Frazer) 5. Re: Wind Deflector (HealeyRick) 6. Re: Wind Deflector (Al Malin) 7. Re: Wind Deflector (Robert F. Begani) 8. 100 engine question (warthodson at aol.com) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 14:23:12 -0400 (EDT) From: Daniel White To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wind deflector Message-ID: <1651480487.37255336.1499624592097.JavaMail.zimbra at wowway.com> I prefer the look of the WW I flying helmet. Dan White 1962 BN7 MK II -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 12:20:03 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: Al Malin Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wind Deflector This looks to be it: https://www.justroadster.com/products/austin-healey-3000-wind-deflector-1959-1967-black On 7/8/2017 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: > This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. > > Tricarb > Al Malin > >> On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell > >> Nice! Is that an available kit? >> >> Bob >> >> On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: >>> Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell >>> >>>> I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, >>>> over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on >>>> the back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a >>>> wind deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a >>>> Big Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a >>>> foot or so and fill it with some mesh. >>>> >>>> A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his >>>> wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they >>>> must help some. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0525.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196411 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: _MG_0526.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 143325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: _MG_0531.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 134919 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 22:00:28 -0400 From: Charlie Baldwin To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wind Deflector How about Paul and Ringo? ;-) On 7/9/2017 10:49 AM, i erbs wrote: > I think John made his and George has one two. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > On Jul 8, 2017 11:57 PM, "Charlie Frazer" > Someone in the Oregon club has one that only uses the tonneau bar > slots. > Not sure if he made it himself or had it fabbed. > I?ll ask him for pictures. > Charlie Frazer > AHCO > > On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Al Malin > This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk > about it. > > Tricarb > Al Malin > >> On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell > >> Nice! Is that an available kit? >> >> Bob >> >> On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: >>> Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 >>> >>> <_MG_0525.jpg><_MG_0526.jpg><_MG_0528.jpg><_MG_0530.jpg><_MG_0531.jpg> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell >>> >>>> I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, >>>> but sometimes, over the course of 8+ hours of driving the >>>> constant wind blast on the back of my head gets, well, >>>> uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, similar to >>>> what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm >>>> thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so >>>> and fill it with some mesh. >>>> >>>> A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he >>>> said his wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a >>>> deflector, so they must help some. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cfrazer at uoregon.edu > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 23:54:04 -0700 From: Charlie Frazer To: Charlie Baldwin Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wind Deflector Neither one of them is in the Oregon club. On Jul 9, 2017, at 7:00 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: How about Paul and Ringo? ;-) On 7/9/2017 10:49 AM, i erbs wrote: > I think John made his and George has one two. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > On Jul 8, 2017 11:57 PM, "Charlie Frazer" wrote: > Someone in the Oregon club has one that only uses the tonneau bar slots. > Not sure if he made it himself or had it fabbed. > I?ll ask him for pictures. > Charlie Frazer > AHCO > > On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: > > This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. > > Tricarb > Al Malin > >> On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> Nice! Is that an available kit? >> >> Bob >> >> On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: >>> Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 >>> >>> <_MG_0525.jpg><_MG_0526.jpg><_MG_0528.jpg><_MG_0530.jpg><_MG_0531.jpg> >>> >>> >>> >>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>> >>>> I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so and fill it with some mesh. >>>> >>>> A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they must help some. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cfrazer at uoregon.edu > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 08:19:39 -0400 From: HealeyRick To: Charlie Baldwin Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wind Deflector Message-ID: No deflector here. On Sun, Jul 9, 2017 at 10:00 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > How about Paul and Ringo? ;-) > > On 7/9/2017 10:49 AM, i erbs wrote: > > I think John made his and George has one two. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > On Jul 8, 2017 11:57 PM, "Charlie Frazer" wrote: > > Someone in the Oregon club has one that only uses the tonneau bar slots. > Not sure if he made it himself or had it fabbed. > I?ll ask him for pictures. > Charlie Frazer > AHCO > > On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: > > This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. > > Tricarb > Al Malin > > On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Nice! Is that an available kit? > > Bob > > On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: > > Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 > > <_MG_0525.jpg><_MG_0526.jpg><_MG_0528.jpg><_MG_0530.jpg><_MG_0531.jpg> > > > > On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, over > the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the back of > my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, > similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm > thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so and fill > it with some mesh. > > A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his wife > wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they must help > some. > > Bob > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/cfrazer at uoregon.edu > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: paul.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 14428 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 11:36:58 -0400 From: Al Malin To: Charlie Frazer Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wind Deflector Saw one yesterday on an MG. He got it from Race Land. They don?t list one for a Healey but maybe you can find another brand that fits. They look reasonably priced. https://raceland.com/windblockers.html Al Malin Tricarb > On Jul 10, 2017, at 2:54 AM, Charlie Frazer wrote: > > Neither one of them is in the Oregon club. > > On Jul 9, 2017, at 7:00 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > > How about Paul and Ringo? ;-) > > On 7/9/2017 10:49 AM, i erbs wrote: >> I think John made his and George has one two. >> >> Ira Erbs >> 1959 100-6 >> MKI engine and disc brakes >> excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. >> Portland,OR >> >> On Jul 8, 2017 11:57 PM, "Charlie Frazer" wrote: >> Someone in the Oregon club has one that only uses the tonneau bar slots. >> Not sure if he made it himself or had it fabbed. >> I?ll ask him for pictures. >> Charlie Frazer >> AHCO >> >> On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: >> >> This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. >> >> Tricarb >> Al Malin >> >>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> >>> Nice! Is that an available kit? >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> On 7/8/2017 7:49 PM, Al Malin wrote: >>>> Attached are photos of a windscreen on a BJ8 >>>> >>>> <_MG_0525.jpg><_MG_0526.jpg><_MG_0528.jpg><_MG_0530.jpg><_MG_0531.jpg> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 6:09 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>>>> >>>>> I'm as much a 'Healey Experience' purist as anybody, but sometimes, over the course of 8+ hours of driving the constant wind blast on the back of my head gets, well, uncomfortable. Has anyone fitted a wind deflector, similar to what you sometimes see on Boxsters, to a Big Healey? I'm thinking you could extend a tonneau support rail a foot or so and fill it with some mesh. >>>>> >>>>> A friend has one of the old Alpha Romeo droptops, and he said his wife wouldn't ride in it until he bought such a deflector, so they must help some. >>>>> >>>>> Bob >>>>> >>>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cfrazer at uoregon.edu >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support >> Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Forums: >> http://www.team.net/forums >> >> >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cfrazer at uoregon.edu > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com > ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 11:53:44 -0400 From: "Robert F. Begani" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wind Deflector LbCarco.com has the same MG shows it fits Healey's. Bob Begani BJ8 67 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Sunday, July 9, 2017 3:20 PM To: Al Malin Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wind Deflector This looks to be it: https://www.justroadster.com/products/austin-healey-3000-wind-deflector-1959 -1967-black On 7/8/2017 8:15 PM, Al Malin wrote: This is at Conclave 2011, Colorado. Never met the owner to talk about it. Tricarb Al Malin On Jul 8, 2017, at 11:05 PM, Bob Spidell -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196411 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 143325 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 192966 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 166210 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 134919 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 13:11:43 -0400 From: warthodson at aol.com To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100 engine question My 100 engine was disassembled when I purchased the car. I am about to begin the rebuilding of a BN-1 engine, so I have been taking stock of what I have & what I need. This invariably leads to surprises & questions. I have been told that the 100 dipstick is intended to be pushed in until the end of the dipstick hits the bottom of the oil pan. I assume this is true because the dipstick does not have any "stop" build into it. I discovered that I have (2) dipsticks as follows: 1. 2.5" from tip to "Max" mark. Overall length 18" 2. 3.1875" from tip to "Max" mark. overall length 19" Did the 100 have different depth oil pans? Are either of these dipsticks correct 100 dipsticks? On a related question, at a recent club meeting a member stated that his mechanic said the reason 100 engines leak oil is because when they are filled to the "Max" mark the level of oil in the pan will be above the "rear seal" (I assume he meant the factory Archimedes screw type seal) & therefore the oil will leak out until the level is below the bottom of the rear seal. Is there any truth to this? Gary Hodson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 208 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Mon Jul 10 16:10:15 2017 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 22:10:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rendezvous References: <1505257753.2561513.1499724615815.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Anyone from the L. A. area going to the Rendezvous in Monterey this September?? Could you take a valve cover up to one of our Canadian brothers and save him shipping and customs fees? I'll make him buy you a beer and you get a new Healey friend.? How about it?Ray Juncalhealeyray.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Mon Jul 10 18:50:58 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 17:50:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison wrote: > A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in (if > you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered back in to > shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get > bondo over the tops of them. I have never seen any "factory applied" > filler in any of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC > factory ever used it. > > > Cheers, > > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > > > Sent from Outlook > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Keith > Pennell > *Sent:* Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM > *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; ahbt71 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. > > I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! > > Keith > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Rowe > To: 'Mike Tobin' ; healeys > Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. > > Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a > big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. > TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. > Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair > John Rowe > Qld Australia > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Mike Tobin > *Sent:* Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Shroud Repair. > > I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's > the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's > how I'm approaching the restoration. > I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud > with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the > hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to > use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from > corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. > > > I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered > on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with > the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds > showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the > contour.. > > Cheers and Thanks Again, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep@ > verizon.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Mon Jul 10 18:54:30 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 17:54:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears References: <740005DD-1204-4B96-950A-356353935009@gmail.com> <002401d2f768$bcd9b750$368d25f0$@com.au> <5f57c60a-ca8e-a03a-5c80-78b868043540@porterscustom.com> 2 to 3 degrees of valve timing can make a very big difference in performance. And that post about the factory valve timing varying by 5 degrees is absurd. On Fri, Jul 7, 2017 at 3:15 PM, David Porter wrote: > I guess my point is that it is a lot of money for 2-3 degrees of valve > timing. > > > On 7/7/2017 3:33 PM, John Rowe wrote: > >> It allows you to get the cam timing correct when assembling. After that it >> is no different to normal timing wheel >> John Rowe >> Qld Ausralia >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David >> Porter >> Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 12:39 AM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Vernier timing gears >> >> ...assuming that the gears and chain and tensioner are up to snuff, >> exactly >> what is the big benefit for vernier adjuster when there is a single cam >> acting on the valves.. dp >> >> >> On 7/7/2017 4:05 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: >> >>> Hi Wayne, >>> >From a quick internet search on the head markings of your "aviation >>> >> bolts" they are at best approx grade 5 (120 KSI) equivalent, cad plated >> steel bolts. Nothing special. >> >>> The Rollmaster bolts you have shown look to me like grade 8 (150 KSI) >>> >> unbrako style cap head bolts. >> >>> The Rollmaster Vernier timing kit tells you at least 3 times (on the >>> >> packaging, and in the instructions) to Locktite these bolts. >> >>> If I was going to change these bolts, I'd go up to 180 KSI ARP bolts, not >>> >> down to grade 5 120 KSI bolts. >> >>> Our Healey Club (AHOC NSW) sells the Rollmaster Vernier kits and we have >>> >> had no issues reported. >> >>> Bob Spidell has recently had this timing set installed in his newly >>> >> rebuilt engine. >> >>> Best >>> Chris >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>> On 6 Jul. 2017, at 1:43 am, Wayne wrote: >>>> >>>> Hello, >>>> >>>> I am getting back to my Healey 3000 engine rebuild after two >>>> >>> years. I bought the Roller master vernier timing gear set from Moss at >> that >> time. I have previously used the Roller Master gear set with multiple key >> ways to adjust the cam timing with no problems on other rebuilds. What I >> don't like about this set is that the cap screws used to clamp the vernier >> gear to the hub are not very robust. Working in aviation I have AN-4 bolts >> that I can replace the cap screws with and safety wire them to prevent >> slippage. Has anyone using this kit had problems? I could keep the cap >> screws and Loctite them. This is a street car, not a race car. Pictures >> are >> one bolt installed and the hardware side by side. >> >>> Wayne >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >>>> donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >>> donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.co >>> m >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM >> 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation >> $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john at jtkarowe.com.au >> >> >> >> > -- > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 > 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Mon Jul 10 19:42:36 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 18:42:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator parts stash for sale body {height: 100%; color:#000000; font-size:12pt; font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;}I thought I needed these parts for the 100S but I guess I got greedy. I don't know how much these are worth, but I don't think I will ever need them. Most were rescued from a Adelaide junk yard or the Clare swap meet in 1990. Who was the guy that rebuilt these things? Ken Freese 65 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Freese traficator fronthalf.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1914103 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Freese trafficator backhalf.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1815270 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Jul 10 19:46:44 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 20:46:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Having fun in Waco Chuck and Edie on the bridge in Waco. Thanks to all the "old timers" in the many Austin Healey clubs and organizations around the world that put their time, talent and treasure into our Austin Healey experience over the years. With much Aloha Perry and Kimberley -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1659.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 45214 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From YNOTINK at msn.com Mon Jul 10 21:55:14 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 03:55:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> , No, actually they were gas welded. I've seen photos of the process. The guy repairing my front shroud is using gas welding. A real craftsman. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of richard mayor Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 12:50:58 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered back in to shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get bondo over the tops of them. I have never seen any "factory applied" filler in any of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC factory ever used it. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! Keith -----Original Message----- Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair John Rowe Qld Australia Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration. I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour.. [X] Cheers and Thanks Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Mon Jul 10 22:09:25 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 21:09:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> True, but not exclusively so. All the ends of the welds in the boot and bonnet flanges were gas welded. -Roland On Mon, 10 Jul 2017 17:50:58 -0700, Richard wrote: >All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jul 10 22:26:57 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2017 21:26:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> Didn't they call it 'heliarc' back then? On 7/10/2017 5:50 PM, richard mayor wrote: > All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. > > On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison > A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back > in (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered > back in to shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when > worked and tend to get bondo over the tops of them. I have never > seen any "factory applied" filler in any of the cars I have worked > on. I don't believe the BMC factory ever used it. > > > Cheers, > > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Tue Jul 11 01:54:29 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 17:54:29 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> , I've seen photos of them in leather gear- they were TIG welding. Can be gas welded also- absolute craftsmen. John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Tuesday, 11 July 2017 1:55 PM To: richard mayor; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. No, actually they were gas welded. I've seen photos of the process. The guy repairing my front shroud is using gas welding. A real craftsman. _____ From: Healeys on behalf of richard mayor Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 12:50:58 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison wrote: A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered back in to shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get bondo over the tops of them. I have never seen any "factory applied" filler in any of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC factory ever used it. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook _____ From: Healeys on behalf of Keith Pennell Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM To: john at jtkarowe.com.au; ahbt71 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! Keith -----Original Message----- From: John Rowe To: 'Mike Tobin' ; healeys Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration. I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour.. Cheers and Thanks Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Tue Jul 11 03:39:38 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 21:39:38 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> Heliarc refers to helium as that was the shielding gas at the time. It is not readily available since it is lighter than air so is extremely expensive. Argon is a fraction of the cost. Hydrogen is even cheaper but the Germans found it wasn't a good substitute for helium some years earlier. The factory jigs are interesting in that they appear to have heat sinks with curved grooves along where the welds are done. The welder runs the torch along the top and melts it down into the groove where it forms a nice weld bead so the front can be dressed down quickly. When doing shroud repairs it is a challenge to get the weld pool to hang nicely since there is nothing other than amperage control to stop it ending up in a blob on the floor. The low current required to keep the weld pool from blowing through doesn't quite complete the weld at the back and that is where the cracking starts from. Going over the back side afterwards eliminates the problem. Mostly. Andy. On 7/11/17, Bob Spidell wrote: > Didn't they call it 'heliarc' back then? > > > On 7/10/2017 5:50 PM, richard mayor wrote: >> All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. >> >> On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison > >> A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back >> in (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered >> back in to shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when >> worked and tend to get bondo over the tops of them. I have never >> seen any "factory applied" filler in any of the cars I have worked >> on. I don't believe the BMC factory ever used it. >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM >> >> > > From ah53 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 11 05:06:20 2017 From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 11:06:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator parts stash for sale References: <1379583412.1446113.1499737355976.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> Curt Arndt does the rebuilding. ? Joe On Monday, July 10, 2017 11:45 PM, "goldengt at cal.net" wrote: #yiv2957115948 body {min-height:100%;color:#000000;font-size:12pt;font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;}#yiv2957115948 body {min-height:100%;color:#000000;font-size:12pt;font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;}I thought I needed these parts for the 100S but I guess I got greedy. I don't know how much these are worth, but I don't think I will ever need them. Most were rescued from a Adelaide junk yard or the Clare swap meet in 1990. Who was the guy that rebuilt these things? Ken Freese 65 BJ8_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Tue Jul 11 05:48:21 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 7:48:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Having fun in Waco "Cross the Brazos at Waco" Have fun. tom ---- Perry wrote: ============= Chuck and Edie on the bridge in Waco. Thanks to all the "old timers" in the many Austin Healey clubs and organizations around the world that put their time, talent and treasure into our Austin Healey experience over the years. With much Aloha Perry and Kimberley From healey100m at me.com Tue Jul 11 06:04:25 2017 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 08:04:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator parts stash for sale References: <1379583412.1446113.1499737355976.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> Ken, Curt Arndt is the guy. cnaarndt at gmail.com (760) 458-1926 Cell (760)434-5707 Home Randy > On Jul 10, 2017, at 9:42 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote: > > I thought I needed these parts for the 100S but I guess I got greedy. I don't know how much these are worth, but I don't think I will ever need them. Most were rescued from a Adelaide junk yard or the Clare swap meet in 1990. > Who was the guy that rebuilt these things? > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Freese traficator fronthalf.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1914103 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Freese trafficator backhalf.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1815270 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Jul 11 09:01:11 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 11:01:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> Here's the definitive answer on how shrouds were welded with some great photos, thanks to Larry Varley's site: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/jensenweld.html Argon arc welding using a tungsten electrode ... or as it's known now: TIG Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 8:50 PM, richard mayor wrote: > All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. > > On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison > wrote: > >> A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in (if >> you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered back in to >> shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get >> bondo over the tops of them. I have never seen any "factory applied" >> filler in any of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC >> factory ever used it. >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> >> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM >> >> >> >> Sent from Outlook >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Keith >> Pennell >> *Sent:* Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM >> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; ahbt71 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >> >> I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! >> >> Keith >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: John Rowe >> To: 'Mike Tobin' ; healeys >> Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >> >> Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a >> big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. >> TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. >> Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair >> John Rowe >> Qld Australia >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >> ] *On Behalf Of *Mike Tobin >> *Sent:* Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM >> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >> >> I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. >> What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because >> that's how I'm approaching the restoration. >> I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front >> shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind >> the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating >> to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there >> from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. >> >> >> I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've >> uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage >> repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of >> the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but >> to shape the contour.. >> >> Cheers and Thanks Again, >> Mike Tobin >> Townsend, Montana >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Tue Jul 11 09:41:36 2017 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 15:41:36 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator parts stash for sale Ken, That would be Curt Arndt, if I remember correctly. Does a real nice job also. If you need his email address, PM me and I'll give it to you, but he's on the list so he should see this. You out there Curt?? Steven? On Jul 10, 2017, at 09:16 PM, goldengt at cal.net wrote: I thought I needed these parts for the 100S but I guess I got greedy. I don't know how much these are worth, but I don't think I will ever need them. Most were rescued from a Adelaide junk yard or the Clare swap meet in 1990. Who was the guy that rebuilt these things? Ken Freese 65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Freese traficator fronthalf.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1914103 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Freese trafficator backhalf.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1815270 bytes Desc: not available URL: From happolk at cox.net Tue Jul 11 10:19:18 2017 From: happolk at cox.net (Hap Polk) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 09:19:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficator parts stash for sale References: <1379583412.1446113.1499737355976.JavaMail.zimbra@cal.net> Absolutely, Curt Arndt is a gem. I hope they come to him. He can make best use of them for the Healey community as a whole. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy Hicks Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 5:04 AM To: goldengt at cal.net Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficator parts stash for sale Ken, Curt Arndt is the guy. (760) 458-1926 Cell (760)434-5707 Home Randy wrote: I thought I needed these parts for the 100S but I guess I got greedy. I don't know how much these are worth, but I don't think I will ever need them. Most were rescued from a Adelaide junk yard or the Clare swap meet in 1990. Who was the guy that rebuilt these things? Ken Freese 65 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1914103 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1815270 bytes Desc: not available URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Tue Jul 11 12:21:03 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 18:21:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> , Hmmm! You're right. Red face here... ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of HealeyRick Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 3:01:11 PM To: richard mayor Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. Here's the definitive answer on how shrouds were welded with some great photos, thanks to Larry Varley's site: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/jensenweld.html Argon arc welding using a tungsten electrode ... or as it's known now: TIG Happy Healeying, Rick Neville All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered back in to shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get bondo over the tops of them. I have never seen any "factory applied" filler in any of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC factory ever used it. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! Keith -----Original Message----- Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair John Rowe Qld Australia Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration. I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour.. [X] Cheers and Thanks Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Tue Jul 11 13:11:42 2017 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 19:11:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> , Cool article, I thought I'd seen it all. Interesting to see the fixture they weld into that holds the two pieces of metal perfectly in alignment. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of HealeyRick Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 9:01 AM To: richard mayor Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. Here's the definitive answer on how shrouds were welded with some great photos, thanks to Larry Varley's site: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/jensenweld.html Argon arc welding using a tungsten electrode ... or as it's known now: TIG Happy Healeying, Rick Neville All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered back in to shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get bondo over the tops of them. I have never seen any "factory applied" filler in any of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC factory ever used it. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! Keith -----Original Message----- Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair John Rowe Qld Australia Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration. I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour.. [X] Cheers and Thanks Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From r3m1g4 at verizon.net Tue Jul 11 13:42:37 2017 From: r3m1g4 at verizon.net (Mike Garvey) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 15:42:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> <3d4188a9-5266-a221-b879-8c0b1afa0804@comcast.net> <00e001d2f2bf$70a36f00$51ea4d00$@rr.com> The tubes on my BJ8 banjo nuts are 0.309" (just shy of 5/16") OD. Fuel line PN 376-870 (Moss) is about 7/32" ID, though the shipping document says "1/4 in". I was unable to force the fuel line on the banjo tubes: the fuel line is too small. I made this observation to Moss Customer Service and they promised to look into it, adding that there have not been a flurry of returns. Mike From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2017 19:12 To: 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 Just a short time after I bought my BJ8, I left home at 3:00 am to drive from NC to Maryland for a car show. About 20 miles from home, while crossing a bridge, I noticed that my fuel gauge (which had read FULL when I left home) was bouncing around about 1/4. I pulled under a light and investigated, to find that the front carb float had filled up with gas and sunk. My problem then was where to find enough gas at 3:30 am to get back home. I was lucky and found one station open about 5 miles back, filled up, and arrived home with 1/2 tank. I didn't know then that those overflow tubes were original equipment, but realizing that all that fuel went down to the ground past the hot exhaust pipes encouraged me to install some. For BJ8s, the plastic tubes go through the hole in the lower carb heat shield, which has a grommet in it. The parts manual calls it a "ferrule", so perhaps the original "grommet" was metal. I tie wrapped the lower part of the tubes to a lightening hole under the left engine mount. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2017 1:46 PM To: Fred Wescoe Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 "... The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes." I ran some some small fuel line off each of the overflow pipes, and tie-wrapped them at the chassis (hard) engine mounts. I always assumed these--or something like them--would be stock, but the Moss catalog doesn't show them. They can't hurt. Bob On 7/1/2017 10:36 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: Michael, I agree with Bob on his comment. I just completed this on my car and the correct and easy way is to undo both banjo bolts. Leave everything else in place. This gives you great accessibility to the hose you need to replace. Be sure to keep control of the banjo bolt washers and as Bob mentioned, the mesh screen/spring. Another easy thing to do is loosen the bolts on the top of the float chambers. This will allow some movement of the tops and makes it easier to align the banjo bolt threads during reassembly. Be sure to tighten the float bowl bolts after tightening the banjo bolts. Be sure to tighten the hose clamps when you are finished. Just make sure everything is tightened up before you start the car. The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes. Fred 66BJ8 63BJ7 deceased On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 12:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I haven't done this in a while, but IIRC it's easier to unbolt both banjos. There should be spring-loaded 'thimble' screens in both, and you'd have to twist the hose a lot to get just one in/out. Bob On 7/1/2017 6:38 AM, Mike Garvey wrote: Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the carbs? Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? Thanks, Mike Michael Garvey 1967 BJ8/38046 Swampscott, MA Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jul 11 14:54:41 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 13:54:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> It amazes me that it was cheaper to pay workers to weld together all those small pieces rather than invest in a bigger stamping press to make it out of a large or larger pieces. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 11:21 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Hmmm! You're right. Red face here... > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of HealeyRick < > healeyrik at gmail.com> > *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 3:01:11 PM > *To:* richard mayor > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. > > Here's the definitive answer on how shrouds were welded with some great > photos, thanks to Larry Varley's site: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/ > larry/jensenweld.html Argon arc welding using a tungsten electrode ... > or as it's known now: TIG > > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 8:50 PM, richard mayor > wrote: > >> All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. >> >> On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison >> wrote: >> >>> A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in >>> (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered back in to >>> shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get >>> bondo over the tops of them. I have never seen any "factory applied" >>> filler in any of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC >>> factory ever used it. >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from Outlook >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Keith >>> Pennell >>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM >>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; ahbt71 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >>> >>> I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! >>> >>> Keith >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: John Rowe >>> To: 'Mike Tobin' ; healeys >>> Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >>> >>> Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a >>> big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. >>> TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. >>> Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair >>> John Rowe >>> Qld Australia >>> >>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >>> ] *On Behalf Of *Mike Tobin >>> *Sent:* Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM >>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >>> >>> I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. >>> What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because >>> that's how I'm approaching the restoration. >>> I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front >>> shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind >>> the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating >>> to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there >>> from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. >>> >>> >>> I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've >>> uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage >>> repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of >>> the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but >>> to shape the contour.. >>> >>> Cheers and Thanks Again, >>> Mike Tobin >>> Townsend, Montana >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jul 11 15:14:33 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 23:14:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> Jensen had a lot of experience working with aluminium: Austin A40 Sports, Jensen Interceptor, JNSN lorries and buses, war projects etc. so the Austin-Healey was not to much of a challenge for them. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-7-2017 om 21:11 schreef Henry Morrison: > > Cool article, I thought I'd seen it all. Interesting to see the > fixture they weld into that holds the two pieces of metal perfectly in > alignment. > > > Cheers, Henry Morrison > > > Sent from Outlook > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > HealeyRick > *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 9:01 AM > *To:* richard mayor > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. > Here's the definitive answer on how shrouds were welded with some > great photos, thanks to Larry Varley's site: > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/jensenweld.html Argon arc welding > using a tungsten electrode ... or as it's known now: TIG > > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 8:50 PM, richard mayor > All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by > Jensen. > > On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison > > A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded > back in (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be > hammered back in to shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and > crack when worked and tend to get bondo over the tops of > them. I have never seen any "factory applied" filler in any > of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC factory > ever used it. > > > Cheers, > > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > > > Sent from Outlook > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys *Sent:* Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. > I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! > > Keith > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Rowe Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. > > Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end > up with a big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what > welding technique you try. TIG with an alternating current is > the only way to go. > Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair > John Rowe > Qld Australia > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > Tobin > *Sent:* Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM > *Subject:* [Healeys] Shroud Repair. > I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange > bend. What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it > myself - just because that's how I'm approaching the restoration. > I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the > front shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a > copper spoon behind the hole. When I was done grinding ithe > fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the spoon on a hole > this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from corrosian. > I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. > I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler > I've uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought > it was damage repair with the first owner, but then I noticed > that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed no sign of trauma > - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the contour.. > Cheers and Thanks Again, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Jul 11 17:28:25 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 19:28:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> You were partially right, face-saving quote here: * It is not possible to weld right to the end of the joint because the clamp is in the way. In such cases, the joint is completed after removal from the jig, using an ordinary oxy-acetylene torch, aluminium filler rod and Alotectic flux.* *Happy Healeying,* *Rick Neville* On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 2:21 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Hmmm! You're right. Red face here... > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of HealeyRick < > healeyrik at gmail.com> > *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 3:01:11 PM > *To:* richard mayor > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. > > Here's the definitive answer on how shrouds were welded with some great > photos, thanks to Larry Varley's site: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/ > larry/jensenweld.html Argon arc welding using a tungsten electrode ... > or as it's known now: TIG > > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 8:50 PM, richard mayor > wrote: > >> All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. >> >> On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison >> wrote: >> >>> A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in >>> (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered back in to >>> shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get >>> bondo over the tops of them. I have never seen any "factory applied" >>> filler in any of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC >>> factory ever used it. >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> >>> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from Outlook >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Keith >>> Pennell >>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM >>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; ahbt71 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >>> >>> I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! >>> >>> Keith >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: John Rowe >>> To: 'Mike Tobin' ; healeys >>> Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am >>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >>> >>> Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a >>> big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. >>> TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. >>> Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair >>> John Rowe >>> Qld Australia >>> >>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >>> ] *On Behalf Of *Mike Tobin >>> *Sent:* Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM >>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >>> >>> I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. >>> What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because >>> that's how I'm approaching the restoration. >>> I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front >>> shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind >>> the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating >>> to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there >>> from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. >>> >>> >>> I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've >>> uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage >>> repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of >>> the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but >>> to shape the contour.. >>> >>> Cheers and Thanks Again, >>> Mike Tobin >>> Townsend, Montana >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Jul 11 19:29:10 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 21:29:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. References: <002a01d2f7c5$e70ecad0$b52c6070$@com.au> <15d228118ff-c01-e354@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> Don't know if this will come through, but I've attached an article I did for *Healey Marque *on bugeye construction. Over 2200 individual spot welds just in the "chassis" Don't know if the big Healey front shroud could be made in a single pressing and as the article on Larry's site points out, presses were expensive and needed to be ordered in bulk to be amortized. I've done another article on the replacement for the 3000. While doing the research, I learned that DMH was thinking about a fiberglass front end or even low-cost dies made from Kirksite for the aluminum panels. These would have been attached to the front of the MGC rear to make it more distinctive as a Healey than the ADO-51 badge-engineered MG/Healey that had been proposed. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 4:54 PM, i erbs wrote: > It amazes me that it was cheaper to pay workers to weld together all those > small pieces rather than invest in a bigger stamping press to make it out > of a large or larger pieces. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 11:21 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > wrote: > >> Hmmm! You're right. Red face here... >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Healeys on behalf of HealeyRick >> >> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2017 3:01:11 PM >> *To:* richard mayor >> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >> >> Here's the definitive answer on how shrouds were welded with some great >> photos, thanks to Larry Varley's site: http://www.acmefluid.com.au/l >> arry/jensenweld.html Argon arc welding using a tungsten electrode ... >> or as it's known now: TIG >> >> Happy Healeying, >> Rick Neville >> >> On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 8:50 PM, richard mayor >> wrote: >> >>> All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen. >>> >>> On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison >>> wrote: >>> >>>> A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in >>>> (if you can find the right guy) then the metal can be hammered back in to >>>> shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get >>>> bondo over the tops of them. I have never seen any "factory applied" >>>> filler in any of the cars I have worked on. I don't believe the BMC >>>> factory ever used it. >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> >>>> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Sent from Outlook >>>> >>>> >>>> ------------------------------ >>>> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Keith >>>> Pennell >>>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM >>>> *To:* john at jtkarowe.com.au; ahbt71 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net >>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >>>> >>>> I agree with John. And don't use fiberglass!! >>>> >>>> Keith >>>> >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: John Rowe >>>> To: 'Mike Tobin' ; healeys >>>> Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am >>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >>>> >>>> Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a >>>> big blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. >>>> TIG with an alternating current is the only way to go. >>>> Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair >>>> John Rowe >>>> Qld Australia >>>> >>>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net >>>> ] *On Behalf Of *Mike Tobin >>>> *Sent:* Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM >>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shroud Repair. >>>> >>>> I've got a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend. >>>> What's the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because >>>> that's how I'm approaching the restoration. >>>> I've got MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front >>>> shroud with it. I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind >>>> the hole. When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating >>>> to use the spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there >>>> from corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not. >>>> >>>> >>>> I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've >>>> uncovered on both shrouds. At first I thought I thought it was damage >>>> repair with the first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of >>>> the shrouds showed no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but >>>> to shape the contour.. >>>> >>>> Cheers and Thanks Again, >>>> Mike Tobin >>>> Townsend, Montana >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>>> options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>>> options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: HM01-17p26-27.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 431041 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jul 11 19:37:21 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 18:37:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> <3d4188a9-5266-a221-b879-8c0b1afa0804@comcast.net> <00e001d2f2bf$70a36f00$51ea4d00$@rr.com> <007401d2fa7d$db981980$92c84c80$@net> I fitted new lines from Moss on my BJ8 a couple months ago with no issues. Bob On 7/11/2017 12:42 PM, Mike Garvey wrote: > > The tubes on my BJ8 banjo nuts are 0.309" (just shy of 5/16") OD.Fuel > line PN 376-870 (Moss) is about 7/32" ID, though the shipping document > says "1/4 in".I was unable to force the fuel line on the banjo tubes: > the fuel line is too small. > > I made this observation to Moss Customer Service and they promised to > look into it, adding that there have not been a flurry of returns. > > Mike > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *BJ8Healeys > *Sent:* Saturday, July 01, 2017 19:12 > *To:* 'healeys' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 > > Just a short time after I bought my BJ8, I left home at 3:00 am to > drive from NC to Maryland for a car show. About 20 miles from home, > while crossing a bridge, I noticed that my fuel gauge (which had read > FULL when I left home) was bouncing around about 1/4. I pulled under > a light and investigated, to find that the front carb float had filled > up with gas and sunk. My problem then was where to find enough gas at > 3:30 am to get back home. I was lucky and found one station open > about 5 miles back, filled up, and arrived home with 1/2 tank. > > I didn't know then that those overflow tubes were original equipment, > but realizing that all that fuel went down to the ground past the hot > exhaust pipes encouraged me to install some. > > For BJ8s, the plastic tubes go through the hole in the lower carb heat > shield, which has a grommet in it. The parts manual calls it a > "ferrule", so perhaps the original "grommet" was metal. I tie wrapped > the lower part of the tubes to a lightening hole under the left engine > mount. > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Saturday, July 01, 2017 1:46 PM > *To:* Fred Wescoe > *Cc:* healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 > > "... The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes." > > I ran some some small fuel line off each of the overflow pipes, and > tie-wrapped them at the chassis (hard) engine mounts. I always > assumed these--or something like them--would be stock, but the Moss > catalog doesn't show them. They can't hurt. > > Bob > > On 7/1/2017 10:36 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > > Michael, > > I agree with Bob on his comment. I just completed this on my car > and the correct and easy way is to undo both banjo bolts. Leave > everything else in place. This gives you great accessibility to > the hose you need to replace. Be sure to keep control of the > banjo bolt washers and as Bob mentioned, the mesh screen/spring. > > Another easy thing to do is loosen the bolts on the top of the > float chambers. This will allow some movement of the tops and > makes it easier to align the banjo bolt threads during > reassembly. Be sure to tighten the float bowl bolts after > tightening the banjo bolts. Be sure to tighten the hose clamps > when you are finished. > > Just make sure everything is tightened up before you start the > car. The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes. > > Fred > > 66BJ8 > > 63BJ7 deceased > > On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 12:31 PM, Bob Spidell > I haven't done this in a while, but IIRC it's easier to unbolt > both banjos. There should be spring-loaded 'thimble' screens in > both, and you'd have to twist the hose a lot to get just one in/out. > > Bob > > On 7/1/2017 6:38 AM, Mike Garvey wrote: > > Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel > hose between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of > one of the carbs? Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? > > Thanks, Mike > > Michael Garvey > 1967 BJ8/38046 > Swampscott, MA > > Image removed by sender. > > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jul 11 22:21:20 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2017 21:21:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> <3d4188a9-5266-a221-b879-8c0b1afa0804@comcast.net> <00e001d2f2bf$70a36f00$51ea4d00$@rr.com> <007401d2fa7d$db981980$92c84c80$@net> I just realized my message didn't add much value. Ask the Moss guys--Michael Grant was their top Healey guy last I checked--if they've recently switched vendors for these. IIRC, mine were Petroflex. I also noted the new hard line to carbs was a couple inches shorter than the one I got from Moss many moons ago, so things can change. Bob On 7/11/2017 6:37 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > I fitted new lines from Moss on my BJ8 a couple months ago with no issues. > > Bob > > > On 7/11/2017 12:42 PM, Mike Garvey wrote: >> >> The tubes on my BJ8 banjo nuts are 0.309" (just shy of 5/16") OD.Fuel >> line PN 376-870 (Moss) is about 7/32" ID, though the shipping >> document says "1/4 in".I was unable to force the fuel line on the >> banjo tubes: the fuel line is too small. >> >> I made this observation to Moss Customer Service and they promised to >> look into it, adding that there have not been a flurry of returns. >> >> Mike >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Jul 12 03:05:28 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2017 17:05:28 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> loosen the float chamber tops... easiest way to do it! On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 9:38 PM, Mike Garvey wrote: > Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose > between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the carbs? > Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? > > Thanks, Mike > > > > Michael Garvey > 1967 BJ8/38046 > Swampscott, MA > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Wed Jul 12 08:04:26 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2017 07:04:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 FWIW, the fuel hose for my BN7 was also problematic. I had a steel braided line with red and black tracers that fit perfectly which I got perhaps 5 years ago from British Car Specialists, if memory serves. The fittings are an inverse flare. I got one replacement from British Car Specialists and had problems with it threading on and seating, and also one from Moss, which came from a different vendor, but with the same style. The fittings on the replacement hoses were similar to a flare, but instead of tapering to the orifice, they were squared off. And while I could force the treads on both the fuel rail and the fitting from my glass bowl filter, they would not seat properly. I returned the Moss unit, but unfortunately I fouled the threads on the one from BCS rendering it junk. I finally had a local hose and hydraulics company make me a hose using the fittings from the prior hose. Problem solved, albeit a bit expensively considering the cost of manufacture plus the wasted hose. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 9:21 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 I just realized my message didn't add much value. Ask the Moss guys--Michael Grant was their top Healey guy last I checked--if they've recently switched vendors for these. IIRC, mine were Petroflex. I also noted the new hard line to carbs was a couple inches shorter than the one I got from Moss many moons ago, so things can change. Bob On 7/11/2017 6:37 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I fitted new lines from Moss on my BJ8 a couple months ago with no issues. Bob On 7/11/2017 12:42 PM, Mike Garvey wrote: The tubes on my BJ8 banjo nuts are 0.309" (just shy of 5/16") OD. Fuel line PN 376-870 (Moss) is about 7/32" ID, though the shipping document says "1/4 in". I was unable to force the fuel line on the banjo tubes: the fuel line is too small. I made this observation to Moss Customer Service and they promised to look into it, adding that there have not been a flurry of returns. Mike -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Braided fuel line.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 109115 bytes Desc: not available URL: From warthodson at aol.com Wed Jul 12 09:42:32 2017 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2017 11:42:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <055101d2fb17$c61acb30$52506190$@roadrunner.com> I would suspect that part of the problem is that the threads & the seat dimensions on the banjo fitting & the threads & seat dimensions on the non-original glass bowl filter are not the same. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Steele To: 'Bob Spidell' ; healeys Sent: Wed, Jul 12, 2017 10:00 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 FWIW, the fuel hose for my BN7 was also problematic. I had a steel braided line with red and black tracers that fit perfectly which I got perhaps 5 years ago from British Car Specialists, if memory serves. The fittings are an inverse flare. I got one replacement from British Car Specialists and had problems with it threading on and seating, and also one from Moss, which came from a different vendor, but with the same style. The fittings on the replacement hoses were similar to a flare, but instead of tapering to the orifice, they were squared off. And while I could force the treads on both the fuel rail and the fitting from my glass bowl filter, they would not seat properly. I returned the Moss unit, but unfortunately I fouled the threads on the one from BCS rendering it junk. I finally had a local hose and hydraulics company make me a hose using the fittings from the prior hose. Problem solved, albeit a bit expensively considering the cost of manufacture plus the wasted hose. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Wed Jul 12 15:09:38 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2017 14:09:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <055101d2fb17$c61acb30$52506190$@roadrunner.com> <15d37774fa0-c0d-13a2@webjas-vac019.srv.aolmail.net> Yes, I suspected that as well. The fitting on the pipe from the bowl filter is a standard 5/16 flare. But the replacement hoses did not seat on the carb fuel pipe either, so I had problems at both ends, not just the non-original end. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 8:43 AM To: healeybruce at roadrunner.com; bspidell at comcast.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 I would suspect that part of the problem is that the threads & the seat dimensions on the banjo fitting & the threads & seat dimensions on the non-original glass bowl filter are not the same. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- Sent: Wed, Jul 12, 2017 10:00 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 FWIW, the fuel hose for my BN7 was also problematic. I had a steel braided line with red and black tracers that fit perfectly which I got perhaps 5 years ago from British Car Specialists, if memory serves. The fittings are an inverse flare. I got one replacement from British Car Specialists and had problems with it threading on and seating, and also one from Moss, which came from a different vendor, but with the same style. The fittings on the replacement hoses were similar to a flare, but instead of tapering to the orifice, they were squared off. And while I could force the treads on both the fuel rail and the fitting from my glass bowl filter, they would not seat properly. I returned the Moss unit, but unfortunately I fouled the threads on the one from BCS rendering it junk. I finally had a local hose and hydraulics company make me a hose using the fittings from the prior hose. Problem solved, albeit a bit expensively considering the cost of manufacture plus the wasted hose. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From r3m1g4 at verizon.net Thu Jul 13 11:11:28 2017 From: r3m1g4 at verizon.net (Mike Garvey) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2017 13:11:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 References: <002801d2f26f$52024da0$f606e8e0$@net> <3d4188a9-5266-a221-b879-8c0b1afa0804@comcast.net> <00e001d2f2bf$70a36f00$51ea4d00$@rr.com> Response from Moss: the BJ7 has 1/4" banjo tubes; the BJ8 has 5/16" banjo tubes. Moss carries the same part for both car models and admits that this is wrong. They will refund my money. I was told that there is an action going forward for the quality department at Moss to decide what the long term plan is. I view this as excellent customer service to resolve (mostly) an issue with a $3.79 part. Let's see if there is a revised part in 3 months?.. Mike From: Mike Garvey [mailto:r3m1g4 at verizon.net] Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 15:43 To: 'healeys' Subject: RE: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 The tubes on my BJ8 banjo nuts are 0.309" (just shy of 5/16") OD. Fuel line PN 376-870 (Moss) is about 7/32" ID, though the shipping document says "1/4 in". I was unable to force the fuel line on the banjo tubes: the fuel line is too small. I made this observation to Moss Customer Service and they promised to look into it, adding that there have not been a flurry of returns. Mike From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2017 19:12 To: 'healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 Just a short time after I bought my BJ8, I left home at 3:00 am to drive from NC to Maryland for a car show. About 20 miles from home, while crossing a bridge, I noticed that my fuel gauge (which had read FULL when I left home) was bouncing around about 1/4. I pulled under a light and investigated, to find that the front carb float had filled up with gas and sunk. My problem then was where to find enough gas at 3:30 am to get back home. I was lucky and found one station open about 5 miles back, filled up, and arrived home with 1/2 tank. I didn't know then that those overflow tubes were original equipment, but realizing that all that fuel went down to the ground past the hot exhaust pipes encouraged me to install some. For BJ8s, the plastic tubes go through the hole in the lower carb heat shield, which has a grommet in it. The parts manual calls it a "ferrule", so perhaps the original "grommet" was metal. I tie wrapped the lower part of the tubes to a lightening hole under the left engine mount. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, July 01, 2017 1:46 PM To: Fred Wescoe Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb hose BJ8 "... The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes." I ran some some small fuel line off each of the overflow pipes, and tie-wrapped them at the chassis (hard) engine mounts. I always assumed these--or something like them--would be stock, but the Moss catalog doesn't show them. They can't hurt. Bob On 7/1/2017 10:36 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote: Michael, I agree with Bob on his comment. I just completed this on my car and the correct and easy way is to undo both banjo bolts. Leave everything else in place. This gives you great accessibility to the hose you need to replace. Be sure to keep control of the banjo bolt washers and as Bob mentioned, the mesh screen/spring. Another easy thing to do is loosen the bolts on the top of the float chambers. This will allow some movement of the tops and makes it easier to align the banjo bolt threads during reassembly. Be sure to tighten the float bowl bolts after tightening the banjo bolts. Be sure to tighten the hose clamps when you are finished. Just make sure everything is tightened up before you start the car. The overflow pipes are directly above the exhaust pipes. Fred 66BJ8 63BJ7 deceased On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 12:31 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I haven't done this in a while, but IIRC it's easier to unbolt both banjos. There should be spring-loaded 'thimble' screens in both, and you'd have to twist the hose a lot to get just one in/out. Bob On 7/1/2017 6:38 AM, Mike Garvey wrote: Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the short fuel hose between the BJ8 carburetors without removal/loosening of one of the carbs? Maybe remove the rear carb's banjo nut? Thanks, Mike Michael Garvey 1967 BJ8/38046 Swampscott, MA Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Thu Jul 13 12:16:15 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2017 14:16:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 Now that I live in Florida, I am considering installing AC in my BJ8. To no one?s surprise, the heat/humidity is brutal in the summer and makes driving in traffic almost unbearable! (OK, I?m soft) I?d like to do it myself and Vintage Air seems to have a nice system that appears to be fairly easy to install. I know several members have done this and I?d love to ?talk? with someone who?s been through it before with an Austin Healey or someone that can refer me to a web site that would help me anticipate what I?m getting myself into. I?ve a number of questions from simple, ?Should I pull the engine??, to more difficult, ? Do I need to modify my wiring??, and every thing in between. The car has been converted to negative ground already so, I?ve got that behind me. Thank you for your insights. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jul 13 14:17:07 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2017 15:17:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 References: <41731073-0C22-4683-B311-91B8A990EDA9@gmail.com> Or living in a toasty location like Waco Texas. Did I mention toasty? P Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 13, 2017, at 1:16 PM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: > > Now that I live in Florida, I am considering installing AC in my BJ8. To no one?s surprise, the heat/humidity is brutal in the summer and makes driving in traffic almost unbearable! (OK, I?m soft) > > I?d like to do it myself and Vintage Air seems to have a nice system that appears to be fairly easy to install. I know several members have done this and I?d love to ?talk? with someone who?s been through it before with an Austin Healey or someone that can refer me to a web site that would help me anticipate what I?m getting myself into. I?ve a number of questions from simple, ?Should I pull the engine??, to more difficult, ? Do I need to modify my wiring??, and every thing in between. The car has been converted to negative ground already so, I?ve got that behind me. > > Thank you for your insights. > > Price Lindsay > > 67 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Thu Jul 13 17:05:50 2017 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2017 16:05:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 I?m currently installing a ?Nostalgic Air? system in my 1971 TR6 (it is a re-pop of the dealer installed kit with modern ?guts?). I live in Las Vegas and want to get a couple more months of driving in per year. I looked at the Vintage Air Kit as well but ultimately wanted to keep a stock appearance. At the end of the day, all these systems work the same way and are of similar size. By the time I?m done (this weekend) I?ll have about 10 hours in it. You?ll likely have more because you?ll need to fab your own compressor bracket, attachments and will need to come up with another pulley for the compressor. Couldn?t be easier. If you?d like, I can send photos of mine ? at the end of the day, the application to a TR6 and a big Healey will have more in common than not. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting Services, LLC 702.882.6711 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Lindsay Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2017 11:16 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 Now that I live in Florida, I am considering installing AC in my BJ8. To no one?s surprise, the heat/humidity is brutal in the summer and makes driving in traffic almost unbearable! (OK, I?m soft) I?d like to do it myself and Vintage Air seems to have a nice system that appears to be fairly easy to install. I know several members have done this and I?d love to ?talk? with someone who?s been through it before with an Austin Healey or someone that can refer me to a web site that would help me anticipate what I?m getting myself into. I?ve a number of questions from simple, ?Should I pull the engine??, to more difficult, ? Do I need to modify my wiring??, and every thing in between. The car has been converted to negative ground already so, I?ve got that behind me. Thank you for your insights. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Thu Jul 13 18:53:13 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2017 20:53:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 References: <41731073-0C22-4683-B311-91B8A990EDA9@gmail.com> Back in the late 70's I installed an A/C unit in my '67 BJ8 and what a life saver. I lived in Miami at the time the heat from the Healey in the summer time was furnace. Coolaire Manufacturing of Miami was the company that make the kit and I bought it from them directly and installed it my self. Ken Freeze is on the list and he has information on the a/c for healeys. Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com That was the last contact I had for him back in 2001. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> To: Healey List Sent: Thu, Jul 13, 2017 4:34 pm Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 Now that I live in Florida, I am considering installing AC in my BJ8. ?To no one?s surprise, the heat/humidity is brutal in the summer and makes driving in traffic almost unbearable! ?(OK, I?m soft) I?d like to do it myself and Vintage Air seems to have a nice system that appears to be fairly easy to install. ?I know several members have done this and I?d love to ?talk? with someone who?s been through it before with an Austin Healey or someone that can refer me to a web site that would help me anticipate what I?m getting myself into. ?I?ve a number of questions from simple, ?Should I pull the engine??, to more difficult, ? Do I need to modify my wiring??, and every thing in between. ?The car has been converted to negative ground already so, I?ve got that behind me. Thank you for your insights. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bighealey3k at aim.com Thu Jul 13 18:59:07 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2017 20:59:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 References: <41731073-0C22-4683-B311-91B8A990EDA9@gmail.com> Price, Also try this website. http://www.ahexp.com/phorum/read.php?13,58208 They have a discussion about the Coolaire unit. -----Original Message----- From: R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> To: Healey List Sent: Thu, Jul 13, 2017 4:34 pm Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 Now that I live in Florida, I am considering installing AC in my BJ8. ?To no one?s surprise, the heat/humidity is brutal in the summer and makes driving in traffic almost unbearable! ?(OK, I?m soft) I?d like to do it myself and Vintage Air seems to have a nice system that appears to be fairly easy to install. ?I know several members have done this and I?d love to ?talk? with someone who?s been through it before with an Austin Healey or someone that can refer me to a web site that would help me anticipate what I?m getting myself into. ?I?ve a number of questions from simple, ?Should I pull the engine??, to more difficult, ? Do I need to modify my wiring??, and every thing in between. ?The car has been converted to negative ground already so, I?ve got that behind me. Thank you for your insights. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From 050.rpl at gmail.com Thu Jul 13 19:06:12 2017 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2017 21:06:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 References: <41731073-0C22-4683-B311-91B8A990EDA9@gmail.com> <15d3e95d807-560d-2ed8@webprd-a64.mail.aol.com> Thank you Larry. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 13, 2017, at 8:53 PM, Larry Wendland wrote: > > Back in the late 70's I installed an A/C unit in my '67 BJ8 and what a life saver. I lived in Miami at the time the heat from the Healey in the summer time was furnace. Coolaire Manufacturing of Miami was the company that make the kit and I bought it from them directly and installed it my self. Ken Freeze is on the list and he has information on the a/c for healeys. Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com That was the last contact I had for him back in 2001. > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> > To: Healey List > Sent: Thu, Jul 13, 2017 4:34 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 > > > Now that I live in Florida, I am considering installing AC in my BJ8. To no one?s surprise, the heat/humidity is brutal in the summer and makes driving in traffic almost unbearable! (OK, I?m soft) > > > I?d like to do it myself and Vintage Air seems to have a nice system that appears to be fairly easy to install. I know several members have done this and I?d love to ?talk? with someone who?s been through it before with an Austin Healey or someone that can refer me to a web site that would help me anticipate what I?m getting myself into. I?ve a number of questions from simple, ?Should I pull the engine??, to more difficult, ? Do I need to modify my wiring??, and every thing in between. The car has been converted to negative ground already so, I?ve got that behind me. > > > Thank you for your insights. > > > > Price Lindsay > > > 67 BJ8 > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com > > From goldengt at cal.net Fri Jul 14 10:05:55 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2017 09:05:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 That is an obsolete e-mail address. I am no longer likely to add a/c. I might need to also add power steering after the a/c. Too many projects makes my head hurt.Ken Freese?65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Larry Wendland Date: 7/13/17 5:53 PM (GMT-08:00) To: 050.rpl at gmail.com, healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 Back in the late 70's I installed an A/C unit in my '67 BJ8 and what a life saver. I lived in Miami at the time the heat from the Healey in the summer time was furnace. Coolaire Manufacturing of Miami was the company that make the kit and I bought it from them directly and installed it my self.? Ken Freeze is on the list and he has information on the a/c for healeys. Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com? That was the last contact I had for him back in 2001. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> To: Healey List Sent: Thu, Jul 13, 2017 4:34 pm Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 Now that I live in Florida, I am considering installing AC in my BJ8. ?To no one?s surprise, the heat/humidity is brutal in the summer and makes driving in traffic almost unbearable! ?(OK, I?m soft) I?d like to do it myself and Vintage Air seems to have a nice system that appears to be fairly easy to install. ?I know several members have done this and I?d love to ?talk? with someone who?s been through it before with an Austin Healey or someone that can refer me to a web site that would help me anticipate what I?m getting myself into. ?I?ve a number of questions from simple, ?Should I pull the engine??, to more difficult, ? Do I need to modify my wiring??, and every thing in between. ?The car has been converted to negative ground already so, I?ve got that behind me. Thank you for your insights. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Fri Jul 14 10:07:41 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2017 12:07:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 Price, Also I put a Parish Plastics hard top on my car that allows the ragtop to stay in the car in the folded position. The top helped with the heat too. Parish is owned by Smoothline now. I have attached 3 pics of my car with my Parish hardtop installed. http://www.smoothline.com/hardtops Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> To: Larry Wendland Cc: healeys Sent: Thu, Jul 13, 2017 9:06 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 Thank you Larry. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 13, 2017, at 8:53 PM, Larry Wendland wrote: > > Back in the late 70's I installed an A/C unit in my '67 BJ8 and what a life saver. I lived in Miami at the time the heat from the Healey in the summer time was furnace. Coolaire Manufacturing of Miami was the company that make the kit and I bought it from them directly and installed it my self. Ken Freeze is on the list and he has information on the a/c for healeys. Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com That was the last contact I had for him back in 2001. > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> > To: Healey List > Sent: Thu, Jul 13, 2017 4:34 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 > > > Now that I live in Florida, I am considering installing AC in my BJ8. To no one?s surprise, the heat/humidity is brutal in the summer and makes driving in traffic almost unbearable! (OK, I?m soft) > > > I?d like to do it myself and Vintage Air seems to have a nice system that appears to be fairly easy to install. I know several members have done this and I?d love to ?talk? with someone who?s been through it before with an Austin Healey or someone that can refer me to a web site that would help me anticipate what I?m getting myself into. I?ve a number of questions from simple, ?Should I pull the engine??, to more difficult, ? Do I need to modify my wiring??, and every thing in between. The car has been converted to negative ground already so, I?ve got that behind me. > > > Thank you for your insights. > > > > Price Lindsay > > > 67 BJ8 > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: img001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 191798 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: img002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 188068 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: img004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 383915 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Fri Jul 14 11:32:58 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2017 13:32:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny Happy Healeying, Rick Neville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: dry.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 89917 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Fri Jul 14 11:59:10 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2017 17:59:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny References: Ah yes, wind up windows=the end of sporting cars... Regards, Richard C BN 7#440 Top leaks, side screens? Who needs them;just drive faster :-) > On Jul 14, 2017, at 12:48 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > From 2x2doc at gmail.com Fri Jul 14 15:13:13 2017 From: 2x2doc at gmail.com (patrick williams) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2017 16:13:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 I put AC into my 1960 BT7 a number of years ago. The key is getting the bracket. I got mine from Bret Blades. Looks like he's got a web page http://www.coolhealeys.com/ Pat Williams -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Fri Jul 14 15:47:51 2017 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2017 17:47:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny References: That is until 53 years later when restored and now hoods don't fit and windows don't quite keep the rain out. Only drive in the sunshine. :-[ John 64/66 BJ8s On 7/14/2017 1:32 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > > _______________________________________________ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Jul 14 19:32:02 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2017 09:32:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 References: <41731073-0C22-4683-B311-91B8A990EDA9@gmail.com> First thing is to make sure that the tunnel and floor boards are sealed and insulated. Second thing that really helps is getting the headers jet hot coated, as it helps push the heat out the tailpipe rather than radiated into the engine bay. With those two changes, you will probably not need AC for most of the time.... my two cents. On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 2:16 AM, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: > Now that I live in Florida, I am considering installing AC in my BJ8. To > no one?s surprise, the heat/humidity is brutal in the summer and makes > driving in traffic almost unbearable! (OK, I?m soft) > > I?d like to do it myself and Vintage Air seems to have a nice system that > appears to be fairly easy to install. I know several members have done > this and I?d love to ?talk? with someone who?s been through it before with > an Austin Healey or someone that can refer me to a web site that would help > me anticipate what I?m getting myself into. I?ve a number of questions > from simple, ?Should I pull the engine??, to more difficult, ? Do I need to > modify my wiring??, and every thing in between. The car has been converted > to negative ground already so, I?ve got that behind me. > > Thank you for your insights. > > Price Lindsay > > 67 BJ8 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Jul 14 22:38:59 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2017 21:38:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 References: <41731073-0C22-4683-B311-91B8A990EDA9@gmail.com> I agree with Alan and would add: Seal the firewall with tarpaper, cut per original, and make sure all the gourmets and plugs are in place. Against the floor and parts of the foot well, I installed ?Evercoat? Q-pads, Dynamat Extreme, and Dynaliner. I put Dynaliner on the inside and outside of the tunnel too. Next, if ever, I would forego the Q-pads because they are difficult to install. That said, the cockpit very is comfortable when I am winding down the road on 90F degree days to 100F+. But you have to drive fast! :) It?s fine sitting at a stoplight too. BTW, I have a tan interior. John Spaur ?62 BT7 (People have installed AC on these too and I have thought about it.) From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Friday, July 14, 2017 6:32 PM To: R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Air Conditioning Installation - BJ8 First thing is to make sure that the tunnel and floor boards are sealed and insulated. Second thing that really helps is getting the headers jet hot coated, as it helps push the heat out the tailpipe rather than radiated into the engine bay. With those two changes, you will probably not need AC for most of the time.... my two cents. Now that I live in Florida, I am considering installing AC in my BJ8. To no one?s surprise, the heat/humidity is brutal in the summer and makes driving in traffic almost unbearable! (OK, I?m soft) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Jul 15 07:04:04 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2017 09:04:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] UK BN4 746YUF Listers My niece just returned from a UK trip and happened upon a very nice dark blue BN4, registered as 746YUF in a small town in southern England. Says she was visiting a pub and there it was in all its splendor. Anyone on the list? Aloha Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britfan1 at epix.net Sat Jul 15 09:48:54 2017 From: britfan1 at epix.net (S. Carr) Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2017 11:48:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AACA Hershey poster - Healey featured For those of you who aren?t AACA members, the program & poster for this year?s fall Hershey event features a red Healey Hundred (but the semi-obscured steering wheel in the background certainly seems to have a blue&white BMW logo in the center!) Sarah Carr BN1 in PA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Jul 15 10:47:45 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2017 12:47:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AACA Hershey poster - Healey featured References: Here's the poster. Rick Neville On Sat, Jul 15, 2017 at 11:48 AM, S. Carr wrote: > For those of you who aren?t AACA members, the program & poster for this > year?s fall Hershey event features a red Healey Hundred (but the > semi-obscured steering wheel in the background certainly seems to have a > blue&white BMW logo in the center!) > > Sarah Carr > BN1 in PA > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2017-rev2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 289658 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Jul 15 11:37:13 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2017 13:37:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] WACO Conclave Thanks to all of the sponsoring Texas Austin Healey clubs for a really nice Conclave in Waco. Nice to see old friends and meet some new ones too. Perry and Kimberley Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Jul 15 14:20:53 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2017 16:20:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AACA Hershey poster - Healey featured References: You can see it at: http://hersheyaaca.org/ John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S. Carr Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2017 11:49 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] AACA Hershey poster - Healey featured For those of you who aren?t AACA members, the program & poster for this year?s fall Hershey event features a red Healey Hundred (but the semi-obscured steering wheel in the background certainly seems to have a blue&white BMW logo in the center!) Sarah Carr BN1 in PA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sat Jul 15 19:30:20 2017 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2017 18:30:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny References: Amen brother! On Fri, Jul 14, 2017 at 10:59 AM, Richard Collins wrote: > Ah yes, wind up windows=the end of sporting cars... > > Regards, > Richard C > BN 7#440 > Top leaks, side screens? Who needs them;just drive faster :-) > > > > On Jul 14, 2017, at 12:48 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > > > > Happy Healeying, > > Rick Neville > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sun Jul 16 09:22:15 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2017 16:22:15 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Wheek bearings Hi, Does anyone have the numbers for the front wheel bearings and races? I shall have to replace my front rhs wheel bearings soon. Just beginning to be a bit grumbly in there...nothing to panic about. Now, I see that I did this before, in November 2005 actually. Furthermore, I noted down the Timken part numbers at the time but my new version of MSWord does not seem to like the table created in the 2005 version. So, I'd appreciate all 4 numbers as I'll replace inner and outer bearings and races. Might as well, once I'm in there and I'm not sure I'll know which bearing is playing up anyhow. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Jul 16 10:43:18 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2017 12:43:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheek bearings References: <001401d2fe47$4ea84770$ebf8d650$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> The bearing and oil seal numbers are attached. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2017 11:22 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Wheek bearings Hi, Does anyone have the numbers for the front wheel bearings and races? I shall have to replace my front rhs wheel bearings soon. Just beginning to be a bit grumbly in there...nothing to panic about. Now, I see that I did this before, in November 2005 actually. Furthermore, I noted down the Timken part numbers at the time but my new version of MSWord does not seem to like the table created in the 2005 version. So, I'd appreciate all 4 numbers as I'll replace inner and outer bearings and races. Might as well, once I'm in there and I'm not sure I'll know which bearing is playing up anyhow. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Wheel bearings.xlsx Type: application/vnd.openxmlformats-officedocument.spreadsheetml.sheet Size: 9034 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sun Jul 16 12:27:44 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2017 19:27:44 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Wheek bearings References: <001401d2fe47$4ea84770$ebf8d650$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Regarding my message, below, I should have added that the car is a MkII BT7. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: 16 July 2017 16:22 To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Wheek bearings Hi, Does anyone have the numbers for the front wheel bearings and races? I shall have to replace my front rhs wheel bearings soon. Just beginning to be a bit grumbly in there...nothing to panic about. Now, I see that I did this before, in November 2005 actually. Furthermore, I noted down the Timken part numbers at the time but my new version of MSWord does not seem to like the table created in the 2005 version. So, I'd appreciate all 4 numbers as I'll replace inner and outer bearings and races. Might as well, once I'm in there and I'm not sure I'll know which bearing is playing up anyhow. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Sun Jul 16 16:40:16 2017 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2017 23:40:16 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] UK BN4 746YUF References: <20170715130834.47C7B2588C91@autox.team.net> Where was she? Peter On 15/07/2017 14:04, healeyguy at aol.com wrote: > Listers > > My niece just returned from a UK trip and happened upon a very nice dark blue > BN4, registered as 746YUF in a small town in southern England. Says she was > visiting a pub and there it was in all its splendor. Anyone on the list? > > Aloha > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- =========================================================== Dr Peter Dzwig From djg at gavinassociates.com Mon Jul 17 17:07:50 2017 From: djg at gavinassociates.com (Dennis Gavin) Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2017 23:07:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Luggage Rack I bought my 63 BJ7 back in 1984. It came with a luggage rack that attached to the boot hinges with additional hardware I no longer have. In 08 we did a total restoration and I can only assume I lost the hinge pin rack attachment hardware. The rack is in good condition so I'd really like to find a source for the attachment hinge pin that I think I remember. This is the type that has lower legs that are supported by the rear bumper and the upper portion attached to the boot hinges. I hope I've explained this OK and look forward to finding a source. Thanking you all in advance. Dennis Gavin 63 BJ7 63 E Type 48 Willys Jeepster 02 XJ8 Cell: 617-680-8855 Centerville, MA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Mon Jul 17 17:35:28 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2017 23:35:28 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Michael Salter Michael, Please contact me off the list. Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ Police Urge Americans to Carry This With Them at All Times The Observer http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/596d4a1d5e8f54a1d7d7ast01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jul 17 19:55:31 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2017 18:55:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Siting (sort of) NFI -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Snoopy.PNG Type: image/png Size: 70737 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rantal243 at yahoo.com Tue Jul 18 14:04:08 2017 From: rantal243 at yahoo.com (Richard Antal) Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2017 20:04:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Storage References: <1024607455.3408565.1500408248395.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Gents,I have a cut-off switch that allows me to turn off the fuel pump and in so doing, empty the carburettors on my BJ8. Is it prudent to do so if I'm storing the vehicle for many months or is it best to leave fuel in the carbs? Thank you......rich antal -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Wed Jul 19 00:41:10 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 07:41:10 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Luggage Rack References: I'd like a pair of those pins too..... Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Gavin Sent: 18 July 2017 00:08 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Luggage Rack I bought my 63 BJ7 back in 1984. It came with a luggage rack that attached to the boot hinges with additional hardware I no longer have. In 08 we did a total restoration and I can only assume I lost the hinge pin rack attachment hardware. The rack is in good condition so I'd really like to find a source for the attachment hinge pin that I think I remember. This is the type that has lower legs that are supported by the rear bumper and the upper portion attached to the boot hinges. I hope I've explained this OK and look forward to finding a source. Thanking you all in advance. Dennis Gavin 63 BJ7 63 E Type 48 Willys Jeepster 02 XJ8 Cell: 617-680-8855 Centerville, MA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jul 19 00:50:08 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 08:50:08 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Storage References: <1024607455.3408565.1500408248395.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1024607455.3408565.1500408248395@mail.yahoo.com> No need for that. When I laid up my car in 1985 the system was full with petrol, Euro 95 with 5% ethanol. In the first 10 -15 years I started up the car regularly. When I dismantled the fuel pump and carburettors a few years ago I was amazed that everything was absolutely sparkling clean. No residue or corrosion whatsoever. Even the rubber seals in the carbs and fuel pump were tight but were replaced as they were a bit hard and some had minor cracks. Rubber hoses were history but what can you expect after 30 odd years. Kees Oudesluijs Op 18-7-2017 om 22:04 schreef Richard Antal: > Gents, > I have a cut-off switch that allows me to turn off the fuel pump and > in so doing, empty the carburettors on my BJ8. Is it prudent to do so > if I'm storing the vehicle for many months or is it best to leave fuel > in the carbs? Thank you......rich antal > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Jul 19 02:29:43 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 16:29:43 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Storage References: <1024607455.3408565.1500408248395.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1024607455.3408565.1500408248395@mail.yahoo.com> It's very dependent on the quality of the fuel you have, and if it has any ethanol in it, it can be a problem. One solution that works really well is to put in STA-BIL in the tank before you park it for a long time... I have not driven my healeys for as much as 24 months and no problems starting up with STA-BIL in there, even w/ California's ethanol in there. On Wed, Jul 19, 2017 at 4:04 AM, Richard Antal wrote: > Gents, > I have a cut-off switch that allows me to turn off the fuel pump and in so > doing, empty the carburettors on my BJ8. Is it prudent to do so if I'm > storing the vehicle for many months or is it best to leave fuel in the > carbs? Thank you......rich antal > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com Wed Jul 19 07:43:19 2017 From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 13:43:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Couldn't believe my eyes After a very frustrating day of general maintenance of my beauty I drove down to the beach for a wonderful Healey event. I drove on Ocean parkway which is basically straight and has very little traffic. At one point I happened to look down at my speedometer and much to my surprise it read 85 MPH. My enlarged radiator was doing an excellent job of keeping the temperature nice and cool inspite of the ambient temp in the mid eighties. All in all it was a very satisfying evening. These cars really are special. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Jul 19 14:54:45 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 13:54:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Luggage Rack References: post when you find a source Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 4:07 PM, Dennis Gavin wrote: > I bought my 63 BJ7 back in 1984. It came with a luggage rack that attached > to the boot hinges with additional hardware I no longer have. In 08 we did > a total restoration and I can only assume I lost the hinge pin rack > attachment hardware. The rack is in good condition so I?d really like to > find a source for the attachment hinge pin that I think I remember. This is > the type that has lower legs that are supported by the rear bumper and the > upper portion attached to the boot hinges. I hope I?ve explained this OK > and look forward to finding a source. Thanking you all in advance. > > > > Dennis Gavin > > 63 BJ7 > > 63 E Type > > 48 Willys Jeepster > > 02 XJ8 > > Cell: 617-680-8855 <(617)%20680-8855> > > Centerville, MA > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From banjojohn at cox.net Wed Jul 19 15:21:43 2017 From: banjojohn at cox.net (John O'Brien) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 16:21:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool down. It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have a heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for $499.00, https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like the Wizard. Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. John O'Brien '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) '61 Bugeye (Lucy) From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jul 19 16:23:55 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 00:23:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted to your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. Kees Oudesluijs Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: > Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. > > I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a > great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska > driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and hotter > until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool down. It > boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some antifreeze solution > too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over 212 the temp rocketed > well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I had a similar situation > last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. > > So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. I > put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have a > heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the > aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free > shipping > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr > > and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping > http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr > > > Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan > guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey > rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for > $499.00, > https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ > that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look like > they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like the > Wizard. > > Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. > > John O'Brien > > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > > '61 Bugeye (Lucy) > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jul 19 17:55:31 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 16:55:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: My thoughts too. I've done everything Kees suggested, with the exception of the electric fan. My BJ8 will go 80mph all day in 100+degF heat--just did almost five thousand miles through southern CA, NV, AZ, UT, WY, MT, WA, OR and 3 Canadian provinces--and stay below 190degF, and my BN2 will do 70mph on hot days and stay below 190, which amazes me because it has that goofy, one piece cast aluminium fan. Neither will even get up to 180--thermo setpoint--unless it's at least 75deg out. I did hit 212 one time pulling the Panamint grade out of Death Valley on a 115deg day (had to use the heater as an auxiliary radiator--that was fun). John's car is heating up at speed, which is not the usual problem (which is heating up in stop-and-go traffic). I'm thinking there are other issues--timing, mixture, crud in the block, ineffective pump, etc.--that an Al radiator may help mask, but sooner or later the piper has to be paid. Anyway, isn't the main/only benefit of an Al radiator is a bit of weight saving? IIRC, copper and brass are better heat conductors than Al. I know I didn't answer your question, John, but I suspect a shiny new radiator isn't going to fix the underlying problem. Bob On 7/19/2017 3:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH > or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted to > your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. > An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: >> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. >> >> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a >> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska >> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and hotter >> until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool down. It >> boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some antifreeze solution >> too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over 212 the temp rocketed >> well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I had a similar situation >> last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. >> >> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. I >> put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have a >> heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the >> aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free >> shipping >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr >> >> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr >> >> >> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan >> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey >> rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for >> $499.00, >> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ >> that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look >> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like >> the Wizard. >> >> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. >> >> John O'Brien >> >> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >> >> '61 Bugeye (Lucy) >> > > From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jul 19 18:12:45 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 17:12:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: <9ab4ba49-55c4-6a92-f622-cd50e7a10490@comcast.net> After thinking about it, this sounds like a head/gasket leak. The leak--and subsequent overheating--would be greater under load, and as heat increased, the crack would grow, causing greater heating. On 7/19/2017 4:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > My thoughts too. I've done everything Kees suggested, with the > exception of the electric fan. My BJ8 will go 80mph all day in > 100+degF heat--just did almost five thousand miles through southern > CA, NV, AZ, UT, WY, MT, WA, OR and 3 Canadian provinces--and stay > below 190degF, and my BN2 will do 70mph on hot days and stay below > 190, which amazes me because it has that goofy, one piece cast > aluminium fan. Neither will even get up to 180--thermo > setpoint--unless it's at least 75deg out. I did hit 212 one time > pulling the Panamint grade out of Death Valley on a 115deg day (had to > use the heater as an auxiliary radiator--that was fun). > > John's car is heating up at speed, which is not the usual problem > (which is heating up in stop-and-go traffic). I'm thinking there are > other issues--timing, mixture, crud in the block, ineffective pump, > etc.--that an Al radiator may help mask, but sooner or later the piper > has to be paid. Anyway, isn't the main/only benefit of an Al radiator > is a bit of weight saving? IIRC, copper and brass are better heat > conductors than Al. > > I know I didn't answer your question, John, but I suspect a shiny new > radiator isn't going to fix the underlying problem. > > Bob > > > On 7/19/2017 3:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote: >> Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH >> or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted >> to your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. >> An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: >>> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. >>> >>> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a >>> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska >>> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and >>> hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool >>> down. It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some >>> antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over >>> 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I >>> had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. >>> >>> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. >>> I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have >>> a heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the >>> aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free >>> shipping >>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr >>> >>> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping >>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr >>> >>> >>> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan >>> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey >>> rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for >>> $499.00, >>> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ >>> that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look >>> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like >>> the Wizard. >>> >>> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. >>> >>> John O'Brien >>> >>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >>> >>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy) >>> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Wed Jul 19 18:21:23 2017 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 20:21:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available I put a Wizard aluminum radiator in my 100. Couldn't be happier. Works great, customer service was great, (even though they sent me the wrong style the first time) they made good and paid for all the shipping. I also added an over flow tank and hooked the system so it is now a closed system. Again works great. I have no qualms about paying a bit more for something made in this country as the workmanship is top notch and like I said, the customer service was great. I highly recommend Wizard cooling. NFI, just satisfied. Plus my car run much cooler now. So I'm a happy camper. I also added a SS fan I got from British Car Specialists in Stockton, California and that fan pulls some air! Great combination. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 7/19/2017 3:15:20 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, banjojohn at cox.net writes: Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool down. It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have a heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-m anual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673& hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/2529 84917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4A AOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for $499.00, https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like the Wizard. Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. John O'Brien '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) '61 Bugeye (Lucy) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Jul 19 19:22:00 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 18:22:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: <9ab4ba49-55c4-6a92-f622-cd50e7a10490@comcast.net> <1ce25d74-5186-903e-43c1-0736521f3960@comcast.net> Check the oil for presence of water. If the head is cracked oil and water will mix in the sump Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Jul 19, 2017 at 5:12 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > After thinking about it, this sounds like a head/gasket leak. The > leak--and subsequent overheating--would be greater under load, and as heat > increased, the crack would grow, causing greater heating. > > > > On 7/19/2017 4:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> My thoughts too. I've done everything Kees suggested, with the exception >> of the electric fan. My BJ8 will go 80mph all day in 100+degF heat--just >> did almost five thousand miles through southern CA, NV, AZ, UT, WY, MT, WA, >> OR and 3 Canadian provinces--and stay below 190degF, and my BN2 will do >> 70mph on hot days and stay below 190, which amazes me because it has that >> goofy, one piece cast aluminium fan. Neither will even get up to >> 180--thermo setpoint--unless it's at least 75deg out. I did hit 212 one >> time pulling the Panamint grade out of Death Valley on a 115deg day (had to >> use the heater as an auxiliary radiator--that was fun). >> >> John's car is heating up at speed, which is not the usual problem (which >> is heating up in stop-and-go traffic). I'm thinking there are other >> issues--timing, mixture, crud in the block, ineffective pump, etc.--that an >> Al radiator may help mask, but sooner or later the piper has to be paid. >> Anyway, isn't the main/only benefit of an Al radiator is a bit of weight >> saving? IIRC, copper and brass are better heat conductors than Al. >> >> I know I didn't answer your question, John, but I suspect a shiny new >> radiator isn't going to fix the underlying problem. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 7/19/2017 3:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote: >> >>> Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH or >>> equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted to your >>> existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. >>> An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. >>> >>> Kees Oudesluijs >>> >>> >>> Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: >>> >>>> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. >>>> >>>> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a >>>> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska driving in >>>> 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and hotter until we had to >>>> pull into a service station and let it cool down. It boiled over in the >>>> lot, so I had to replace some antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, >>>> once the gauge got over 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit >>>> on the gauge. I had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a >>>> hot day. >>>> >>>> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. I >>>> put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have a heat >>>> problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the aluminum >>>> radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free shipping >>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY- >>>> 3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+ >>>> Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4: >>>> g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr >>>> >>>> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping >>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY- >>>> 3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey% >>>> 7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr >>>> >>>> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan guard >>>> looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey rad. I've >>>> also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for $499.00, >>>> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-alumi >>>> num-radiator/ that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do >>>> not look like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck >>>> like the Wizard. >>>> >>>> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. >>>> >>>> John O'Brien >>>> >>>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >>>> >>>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy) >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From banjojohn at cox.net Wed Jul 19 19:45:22 2017 From: banjojohn at cox.net (John O'Brien) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 20:45:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: Kees: I am not sure how I would check the water pump for cavitation. It is the original pump as far as I know, but I bought it in 2001 with about 45000 miles. Car has about 58000 miles on it now. I have a correct sleeved thermostat fitted. I have thought about the electric fan, but I don't think it would be a factor at highway speeds. I have a higher efficiency fan blade fitted. The electric seems like ,it would be more for keeping it cool at low speed driving or stopped. I'll think about having a different core fitted to my radiator. That may be a better way to go. Thanks John '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) '61 Bugeye (Lucy) On 7/19/2017 5:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH > or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted to > your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. > An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: >> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. >> >> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a >> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska >> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and hotter >> until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool down. It >> boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some antifreeze solution >> too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over 212 the temp rocketed >> well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I had a similar situation >> last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. >> >> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. I >> put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have a >> heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the >> aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free >> shipping >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr >> >> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr >> >> >> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan >> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey >> rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for >> $499.00, >> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ >> that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look >> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like >> the Wizard. >> >> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. >> >> John O'Brien >> >> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >> >> '61 Bugeye (Lucy) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net > > From banjojohn at cox.net Wed Jul 19 20:22:01 2017 From: banjojohn at cox.net (John O'Brien) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 21:22:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: Thanks Bob. I just had my car to the shop before our trip and the timing was set to the spec. 10 degrees BTDC. I did have a problem one day in Waco where the car was running rough, missing, and finally quit on me. Finally discovered the rotor molded-in key had sheered so the rotor was not staying properly positioned on the shaft. I had a spare rotor and replaced it, and it ran fine again. I will check the new rotor to make sure it is okay, since that could obviously cause a timing issue. The car ran fine the next day after the overheating, the rest of the way home, several hundred miles, but it was not as hot outside. My mechanic has new needles for the HD8s ordered, because it is running rich, but I think a rich mixture would make it run cooler rather than hotter, if I remember correctly from my private pilot days. I'm hoping I don't have a bad head gasket again! I've had it replaced twice since I got the car. The second time it was done at a fancy (read expensive) Healey specialty shop near Sioux City IA, and he had the head planed, checked the block for level, and put in new head studs, gasket, etc. For what it cost, I would hope it was done correctly. The reason it's been changed twice is because I was getting some oil in the coolant. I've had oil in the coolant still since the last time it was changed, but I thought it might be residual oil that was trapped in the block, heater core etc, from before the last gasket change, and so I drained refilled with water and Dawn dish soap and ran it and then rinsed, refilled, ran, rinsed etc. until I saw no more signs of oil - several exchanges of coolant. I hadn't seen oil in there after that, but hadn't run the car much since then either. I checked after this trip and there is oil in the coolant again. I was believing that I have one of the blocks that seeps oil through the oil passage where it is very close to the water jacket, but now I am not sure what to think. I never see any sign of coolant on the oil, and I would think that after the car is shut off, the coolant would stay pressurized until the heat dissipates, while the oil pressure would drop to nothing, so you'd think coolant might find it's way into the oil through the same path the oil gets to the coolant. Possibly my cooling issue and the oil seepage share a common cause? Thanks for the opinions and collective wisdom. John '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) '61 Bugeye (Lucy) On 7/19/2017 6:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > My thoughts too. I've done everything Kees suggested, with the > exception of the electric fan. My BJ8 will go 80mph all day in > 100+degF heat--just did almost five thousand miles through southern > CA, NV, AZ, UT, WY, MT, WA, OR and 3 Canadian provinces--and stay > below 190degF, and my BN2 will do 70mph on hot days and stay below > 190, which amazes me because it has that goofy, one piece cast > aluminium fan. Neither will even get up to 180--thermo > setpoint--unless it's at least 75deg out. I did hit 212 one time > pulling the Panamint grade out of Death Valley on a 115deg day (had to > use the heater as an auxiliary radiator--that was fun). > > John's car is heating up at speed, which is not the usual problem > (which is heating up in stop-and-go traffic). I'm thinking there are > other issues--timing, mixture, crud in the block, ineffective pump, > etc.--that an Al radiator may help mask, but sooner or later the piper > has to be paid. Anyway, isn't the main/only benefit of an Al radiator > is a bit of weight saving? IIRC, copper and brass are better heat > conductors than Al. > > I know I didn't answer your question, John, but I suspect a shiny new > radiator isn't going to fix the underlying problem. > > Bob > > > On 7/19/2017 3:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote: >> Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH >> or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted >> to your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. >> An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: >>> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. >>> >>> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a >>> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska >>> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and >>> hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool >>> down. It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some >>> antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over >>> 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I >>> had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. >>> >>> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. >>> I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have >>> a heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the >>> aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free >>> shipping >>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr >>> >>> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping >>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr >>> >>> >>> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan >>> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey >>> rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for >>> $499.00, >>> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ >>> that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look >>> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like >>> the Wizard. >>> >>> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. >>> >>> John O'Brien >>> >>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >>> >>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy) >>> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net > > From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Wed Jul 19 21:41:28 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 13:41:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: <8fadd7d1-49a0-cbb0-17ce-212a85e7983a@cox.net> Hello While aluminium radiators are very popular you should be aware that when you compare the heat conductivity of the metal against copper it comes a very poor second. Copper is are far more efficient at conducting heat than aluminium. So the fitting of an aluminium radiator to your car alone is unlikely to fix the problem. It may look pretty under the bonnet but if that's all you do the problem is unlikely to go away. My guess is that there is sludge at the bottom of the radiator and in the block. While the car may operate in the normal heat range during everyday driving as soon as you extend it a little during hot weather it can't cope. The more sludge there is, the less coolant there is and therefore the ability of the radiator is decreased. There are products out there that will eliminate that sludge. Plus make sure that all the wind deflectors are fitted, water pump impeller is not worm etc etc. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John O'Brien Sent: Thursday, 20 July 2017 11:45 AM To: Oudesluys; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available Kees: I am not sure how I would check the water pump for cavitation. It is the original pump as far as I know, but I bought it in 2001 with about 45000 miles. Car has about 58000 miles on it now. I have a correct sleeved thermostat fitted. I have thought about the electric fan, but I don't think it would be a factor at highway speeds. I have a higher efficiency fan blade fitted. The electric seems like ,it would be more for keeping it cool at low speed driving or stopped. I'll think about having a different core fitted to my radiator. That may be a better way to go. Thanks John '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) '61 Bugeye (Lucy) On 7/19/2017 5:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH > or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted to > your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. > An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: >> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. >> >> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a >> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska >> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and hotter >> until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool down. It >> boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some antifreeze solution >> too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over 212 the temp rocketed >> well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I had a similar situation >> last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. >> >> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. I >> put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have a >> heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the >> aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free >> shipping >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959 >> -1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&e >> pid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr >> >> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-196 >> 7-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae >> 7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr >> >> >> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan >> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey >> rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for >> $499.00, >> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radia >> tor/ that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not >> look like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck >> like the Wizard. >> >> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. >> >> John O'Brien >> >> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >> >> '61 Bugeye (Lucy) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net > > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au From josef-eckert at t-online.de Wed Jul 19 23:49:30 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 07:49:30 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: I can only support what Kees says. Josef Eckert -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available Datum: 2017-07-20T01:21:28+0200 Von: "Oudesluys" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted to your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. Kees Oudesluijs Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: > Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. > > I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a > great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska > driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and hotter > until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool down. It > boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some antifreeze solution > too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over 212 the temp rocketed > well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I had a similar situation > last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. > > So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. I > put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have a > heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the > aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free > shipping > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr > > and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping > http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr > > > Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan > guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey > rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for > $499.00, > https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ > that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look like > they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like the > Wizard. > > Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. > > John O'Brien > > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > > '61 Bugeye (Lucy) > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Jul 20 00:21:39 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 23:21:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: <8fadd7d1-49a0-cbb0-17ce-212a85e7983a@cox.net> With 45,000 miles on the water pump, I would respectively suggest one have a spare on hand. John I think I have a spare pump but now I have to go check. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John O'Brien Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2017 6:45 PM To: Oudesluys ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available Kees: I am not sure how I would check the water pump for cavitation. It is the original pump as far as I know, but I bought it in 2001 with about 45000 miles. Car has about 58000 miles on it now. I have a correct sleeved thermostat fitted. I have thought about the electric fan, but I don't think it would be a factor at highway speeds. I have a higher efficiency fan blade fitted. The electric seems like ,it would be more for keeping it cool at low speed driving or stopped. I'll think about having a different core fitted to my radiator. That may be a better way to go. Thanks John '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) '61 Bugeye (Lucy) On 7/19/2017 5:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH > or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted to > your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. > An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: >> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. >> >> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a >> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska >> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and hotter >> until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool down. It >> boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some antifreeze solution >> too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over 212 the temp rocketed >> well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I had a similar situation >> last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. >> >> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. I >> put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have a >> heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the >> aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free >> shipping >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959 >> -1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&e >> pid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr >> >> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-196 >> 7-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae >> 7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr >> >> >> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan >> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey >> rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for >> $499.00, >> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radia >> tor/ that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not >> look like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck >> like the Wizard. >> >> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. >> >> John O'Brien >> >> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >> >> '61 Bugeye (Lucy) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net > > _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Jul 20 02:25:09 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 10:25:09 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: <8fadd7d1-49a0-cbb0-17ce-212a85e7983a@cox.net> John, You can only check by taking the pump of the car and look for rust/cavitation holes in the body (snail) and rotor vanes. The problem probably lies in you not driving the car enough, 13000 in 15 years is way to little, creating a multitude of problems like sticking bob weights in the distributor, brake problems, all kinds of small items getting stuck, corrosion of switches and connectors in the wiring, degrading coolant, moisture in oil and brake fluid, engine wear, degrading of suspension parts (multiple grease points, shocks) etc etc. Oil in coolant is not good. A small amount showing as an oil film is OK but when you see large blobs of oil appear or thick mayonnaise action is needed. Coolant in oil is an absolute NO-NO. It can be a leak in the oil gallery or a crack in the cylinder head but in most cases it is a head gasket. When the car is used so little the head gasket can corrode quite badly. Over heating at (some) speed can be caused by: not enough coolant sludge in engine and/or radiator wrong or absent ducting around the radiator not directing enough air to the radiator calcifying of radiator effectively blocking it internally radiator externally dirty or damaged small slats preventing air flow through the radiator wrong/faulty thermostat which does not block the radiator bypass when engine warm lean mixture of the carbs, vacuum leak wrong ignition timing worsened by sticking bob weights (lack of maintainance) water pump not generating enough flow because of corrosion and/or cavitation of the vane and snail blown head gasket partially blocked exhaust In traffic jams, on steep roads: insufficient flow from the radiator fan Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-7-2017 om 3:45 schreef John O'Brien: > Kees: > > I am not sure how I would check the water pump for cavitation. It is > the original pump as far as I know, but I bought it in 2001 with about > 45000 miles. Car has about 58000 miles on it now. I have a correct > sleeved thermostat fitted. I have thought about the electric fan, but > I don't think it would be a factor at highway speeds. I have a higher > efficiency fan blade fitted. The electric seems like ,it would be > more for keeping it cool at low speed driving or stopped. > > I'll think about having a different core fitted to my radiator. That > may be a better way to go. > > Thanks > > John > > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > > '61 Bugeye (Lucy) > > On 7/19/2017 5:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote: >> Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH >> or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted >> to your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. >> An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: >>> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. >>> >>> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a >>> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska >>> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and >>> hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool >>> down. It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some >>> antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over >>> 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I >>> had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. >>> >>> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. >>> I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have >>> a heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the >>> aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free >>> shipping >>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr >>> >>> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping >>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr >>> >>> >>> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan >>> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey >>> rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for >>> $499.00, >>> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ >>> that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look >>> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like >>> the Wizard. >>> >>> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. >>> >>> John O'Brien >>> >>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >>> >>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy) >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net >> >> > > From ah3000me at gmail.com Thu Jul 20 05:45:21 2017 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 07:45:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge Good morning, This morning I tracked a couple of oil spots on my jeans back to the oil pressure gauge. There's a bit of oil inside the gauge, and the oil is seeping out. Can I fix the gauge myself, or do I need to send it out? Can this wait a few months until the driving season is over? What's the risk of the gauge failing badly and the engine starting to loose oil pressure? thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dkgraber85 at yahoo.com Thu Jul 20 06:27:59 2017 From: dkgraber85 at yahoo.com (Darin Graber) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 06:27:59 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: Hi Tom, Other than an annoyance, this is a fairly easy fix. It is most likely the small leather washer between the hard copper oil line and the gauge itself. It could be the gauge somehow, but doubt it. It is kind of a bugger to replace, standing on your head and all, but is a quick repair. Best... Darin '57 "Longbridge" 100-6 Sent from my iPhone 6+ > On Jul 20, 2017, at 5:45 AM, Tom wrote: > > Good morning, > > This morning I tracked a couple of oil spots on my jeans back to the oil pressure gauge. There's a bit of oil inside the gauge, and the oil is seeping out. > > Can I fix the gauge myself, or do I need to send it out? > > Can this wait a few months until the driving season is over? What's the risk of the gauge failing badly and the engine starting to loose oil pressure? > > thanks, > > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dkgraber85 at yahoo.com > From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jul 20 07:18:11 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 06:18:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: I think there's supposed to be a small leather washer on the pipe fitting ... Do you have that, or has the one you have dried out? Bob On 7/20/2017 4:45 AM, Tom wrote: > Good morning, > > This morning I tracked a couple of oil spots on my jeans back to the > oil pressure gauge. There's a bit of oil inside the gauge, and the > oil is seeping out. > > Can I fix the gauge myself, or do I need to send it out? > > Can this wait a few months until the driving season is over? What's > the risk of the gauge failing badly and the engine starting to loose > oil pressure? > > thanks, > > Tom > From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Jul 20 07:48:42 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 09:48:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: I haven't seen oil inside my gauge, but I have seen the nut on the oil hard line on the back of the gauge loosen and allow drops of oil to hang on the bottom of the nut. What alerted me to this was that the gauge oil pressure needle began to vibrate wildly. When the nut loosened up, it allowed the air to bleed out of the line. Air in the line is apparently necessary to dampen the pressure pulses in the system. Unscrewing the nut completely, pulling the line out of the gauge, then replacing it solved the vibrating needle problem. Check the security of the nut. If you do have oil inside the gauge, you need to send it out. There is little possibility of the gauge failing completely and the engine losing oil pressure. The inner diameter of the flex hose from the engine to oil hard line, and the line itself, is very small. It's enough to transmit pressure, but not much actual flow of oil. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2017 7:45 AM To: Healey Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge Good morning, This morning I tracked a couple of oil spots on my jeans back to the oil pressure gauge. There's a bit of oil inside the gauge, and the oil is seeping out. Can I fix the gauge myself, or do I need to send it out? Can this wait a few months until the driving season is over? What's the risk of the gauge failing badly and the engine starting to loose oil pressure? thanks, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From RFBegani at speakeasy.net Thu Jul 20 10:32:06 2017 From: RFBegani at speakeasy.net (Robert F. Begani) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 12:32:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: <027c01d3015e$ea08df80$be1a9e80$@rr.com> Hi Steve: 20 years ago after I got my BJ8 back from a shop, who restored the car, while driving down the road oil squired out on to my pants from a loose fitting on the oil line. Going back to the shop they just tighten the nut. I have good oil pressure, but, all ways have oil residue in the gauge. Ideas on how to clean the gauge before installing the engine trans etc. in the fall? Bob Begani Bj8 ?67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Jul 20 10:40:55 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 18:40:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: It is most likely that the bourdon spring inside the gauge has a small crack near where it is soldered. Perhaps it is possible to re-solder the leak. In the mean time you can disconnect the oil pipe where it is fitted to the engine and plug the hole. No problem driving that way but there is no check of course that there is oil pressure. Many cars do not except for a warning light. If the car has always been healthy I would not worry. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-7-2017 om 13:45 schreef Tom: > Good morning, > > This morning I tracked a couple of oil spots on my jeans back to the > oil pressure gauge. There's a bit of oil inside the gauge, and the > oil is seeping out. > > Can I fix the gauge myself, or do I need to send it out? > > Can this wait a few months until the driving season is over? What's > the risk of the gauge failing badly and the engine starting to loose > oil pressure? > > thanks, > > Tom > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jul 20 11:39:26 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 10:39:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: <027c01d3015e$ea08df80$be1a9e80$@rr.com> <087201d30175$bafd24f0$30f76ed0$@speakeasy.net> The oil pressure and water temp gauges are both Bourdon tubes. If I was prepared to send the safety gauge to a specialist anyway--about $200-300--for overhaul I might try squirting electronics cleaner GENTLY--i.e. just a dribble--into the fittings and gently drying them with air (like from the keyboard spray cleaners). If oil is inside the gauge housing you're probably better off sending it in. Actually, I doubt if oil in the oil pressure gauge Bourdon tube is a problem, as some will likely get in there anyway. Bob On 7/20/2017 9:32 AM, Robert F. Begani wrote: > > Hi Steve: > > 20 years ago after I got my BJ8 back from a shop, who restored the > car, while driving down the road oil squired out on to my pants from a > loose fitting on the oil line. Going back to the shop they just > tighten the nut. I have good oil pressure, but, all ways have oil > residue in the gauge. Ideas on how to clean the gauge before > installing the engine trans etc. in the fall? > > Bob Begani > > Bj8 ?67 > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Jul 20 11:54:47 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 11:54:47 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Fwd: Fw: News from Denis Welch Motorsport - Watch Jeremy Welch Win At Zandvoort References: <0856314e-52c5-a9bb-91b1-518d905caafb@porterscustom.com> bad ass Healeys.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Parts hotline: +44(0)1543 472 244 | email us: sales at bighealey.co.uk *Watch Jeremy Welch Win At Zandvoort* The*Healey Driver International* race brought Austin Healey's and driver's from all over Europe. A 60 minute race split into two 30 minute sessions saw *Jeremy Welch* in his Healey 3000, *KVS 484* dominate the event. After crossing the line in the first half with a 16 second lead, Jeremy would start from pole in the second half. You can watch the full second race from inside Welch's car thanks to the *VBOX* installed. With both forward and rear facing cameras you get a great view of the race*. Look out at 10m10s* in the *rear view camera* as Anders Schildt contemplates overtaking under yellow flags! Though he didn't pass he did gain an advantage and was very close at that point until Jeremy once again pulled away. With Jeremy trying to preserve his tyres, Jack Rawles catches and passes Anders and is in hot pursuit, until at *29m10s* he visits the gravel. With the final lap being hampered by tail enders, the result was closely fought. Jeremy was able to keep the lead and *secure overall victory* by less than a second. *To view the video on our website simply click the image above.* ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- *Or call our dedicated parts hotline on +44(0)1543 472 244 or email us: *Austin Healey* *| Jaguar | MGB | MGC | Sprite/Midget | Formula Junior | Lotus | Jensen | * ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you no longer wish to receive emails from us, please click here to UNSUBSCRIBE ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Disclaimer This e-mail and any attachments are confidential and may be legally privileged. It is intended for the sole use of the addressee and not anyone else. If you receive this email in error, please advise the sender immediately. Please note that all orders are subject to our terms and conditions of business, a copy of which can be found on our website at www.bighealey.co.uk/terms-conditions . Denis Welch Motors Limited is a limited company registered in England and Wales. Company Registration No. 1314890 Registered Offices: Sudbury Road Garage, Sudbury Road, Yoxall, Burton on Trent, Staffordshire, DE13 8NA -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Jul 20 12:13:55 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 20:13:55 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: <027c01d3015e$ea08df80$be1a9e80$@rr.com> <087201d30175$bafd24f0$30f76ed0$@speakeasy.net> Remove bezel and glass and use brake cleaner to clean the internals and face. However be careful as in some instances the white lettering of the SMITHS/Jaeger/LUCAS gauges can be easily wiped away, even with water, so do not wipe!!! To remove the bezel lift the tabs slightly and rotate the bezel until the tabs line up with the holes in the body rim. Carefully lift the glass. After that the bezel and glass can be cleaned. Do not bother to replace the sealing. It is not necessary and counterproductive as now trapped moisture can easily evaporate. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-7-2017 om 18:32 schreef Robert F. Begani: > > Hi Steve: > > 20 years ago after I got my BJ8 back from a shop, who restored the > car, while driving down the road oil squired out on to my pants from a > loose fitting on the oil line. Going back to the shop they just > tighten the nut. I have good oil pressure, but, all ways have oil > residue in the gauge. Ideas on how to clean the gauge before > installing the engine trans etc. in the fall? > > Bob Begani > > Bj8 ?67 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From RFBegani at speakeasy.net Thu Jul 20 13:28:37 2017 From: RFBegani at speakeasy.net (Robert F. Begani) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 15:28:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: <027c01d3015e$ea08df80$be1a9e80$@rr.com> <087201d30175$bafd24f0$30f76ed0$@speakeasy.net> As it has been stained for 20 years, I can live with it rather than break it by trying to clean it as it is working. Let me see what the pressure is with a rebuilt engine. Thanks for the comments. Bob From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2017 1:39 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge The oil pressure and water temp gauges are both Bourdon tubes. If I was prepared to send the safety gauge to a specialist anyway--about $200-300--for overhaul I might try squirting electronics cleaner GENTLY--i.e. just a dribble--into the fittings and gently drying them with air (like from the keyboard spray cleaners). If oil is inside the gauge housing you're probably better off sending it in. Actually, I doubt if oil in the oil pressure gauge Bourdon tube is a problem, as some will likely get in there anyway. Bob On 7/20/2017 9:32 AM, Robert F. Begani wrote: Hi Steve: 20 years ago after I got my BJ8 back from a shop, who restored the car, while driving down the road oil squired out on to my pants from a loose fitting on the oil line. Going back to the shop they just tighten the nut. I have good oil pressure, but, all ways have oil residue in the gauge. Ideas on how to clean the gauge before installing the engine trans etc. in the fall? Bob Begani Bj8 ?67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hudgins93 at hotmail.com Thu Jul 20 13:49:32 2017 From: hudgins93 at hotmail.com (Cliff Hudgins) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 19:49:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Paint Code for Hardtop Just bought one for my BT7, but it's red, so need to re-paint. While I'm familiar with the OEW we know and love on Healeys, the hardtops, at least the ones on the rally cars, have always looked 'whiter' to me. Is there an alternative paint code to use that would better match the rally cars? Regards, Cliff Hudgins -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jul 20 13:55:06 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 12:55:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: <027c01d3015e$ea08df80$be1a9e80$@rr.com> <087201d30175$bafd24f0$30f76ed0$@speakeasy.net> <08fa01d3018e$637c9850$2a75c8f0$@speakeasy.net> Note after all these years the OP gauge may be inaccurate anyway. Mine read near-zero at hot idle for many years; after an overhaul I 'gained' 15-20psi at idle. On 7/20/2017 12:28 PM, Robert F. Begani wrote: > > As it has been stained for 20 years, I can live with it rather than > break it by trying to clean it as it is working. Let me see what the > pressure is with a rebuilt engine. > > Thanks for the comments. > > Bob > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Thursday, July 20, 2017 1:39 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge > > The oil pressure and water temp gauges are both Bourdon tubes. If I > was prepared to send the safety gauge to a specialist anyway--about > $200-300--for overhaul I might try squirting electronics cleaner > GENTLY--i.e. just a dribble--into the fittings and gently drying them > with air (like from the keyboard spray cleaners). If oil is inside > the gauge housing you're probably better off sending it in. > > Actually, I doubt if oil in the oil pressure gauge Bourdon tube is a > problem, as some will likely get in there anyway. > > Bob > > On 7/20/2017 9:32 AM, Robert F. Begani wrote: > > Hi Steve: > > 20 years ago after I got my BJ8 back from a shop, who restored the > car, while driving down the road oil squired out on to my pants > from a loose fitting on the oil line. Going back to the shop they > just tighten the nut. I have good oil pressure, but, all ways > have oil residue in the gauge. Ideas on how to clean the gauge > before installing the engine trans etc. in the fall? > > Bob Begani > > Bj8 ?67 > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Jul 20 14:36:27 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 16:36:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: <027c01d3015e$ea08df80$be1a9e80$@rr.com> <087201d30175$bafd24f0$30f76ed0$@speakeasy.net> Well, Bob, I have opened up a water temp/oil pressure gauge but it was more than 25 years ago and I don't remember the details. I think it's easy enough to open it yourself and clean it out before reassembling it, if you are careful with it. There are Bourdon tubes inside that make the needles move and the works are kind of fragile, so be careful. Removing the gauge from the car is a major pain because of that ether tube for the water temp, but after it's out you can have a go at opening it or sending it off for professional repair. I don't quite see why a leak at the nut would put oil inside the gauge. You may have a small crack somewhere, perhaps the Bourdon tube for the oil. That would require sending it off. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Robert F. Begani [mailto:RFBegani at speakeasy.net] Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2017 12:32 PM To: 'BJ8Healeys'; 'Healey Mail List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge Hi Steve: 20 years ago after I got my BJ8 back from a shop, who restored the car, while driving down the road oil squired out on to my pants from a loose fitting on the oil line. Going back to the shop they just tighten the nut. I have good oil pressure, but, all ways have oil residue in the gauge. Ideas on how to clean the gauge before installing the engine trans etc. in the fall? Bob Begani Bj8 ?67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jul 20 16:07:42 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 15:07:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: <027c01d3015e$ea08df80$be1a9e80$@rr.com> <087201d30175$bafd24f0$30f76ed0$@speakeasy.net> <639a3b67-00de-c7ab-3a10-354170f28b10@chello.nl> "... in some instances the white lettering of the SMITHS/Jaeger/LUCAS gauges can be easily wiped away, even with water, so do not wipe!!!" Amen to that. That is why I suggested 'electronic cleaner;' it doesn't seem to affect paint. On 7/20/2017 11:13 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Remove bezel and glass and use brake cleaner to clean the internals > and face. However be careful as in some instances the white lettering > of the SMITHS/Jaeger/LUCAS gauges can be easily wiped away, even with > water, so do not wipe!!! > To remove the bezel lift the tabs slightly and rotate the bezel until > the tabs line up with the holes in the body rim. Carefully lift the > glass. After that the bezel and glass can be cleaned. Do not bother to > replace the sealing. It is not necessary and counterproductive as now > trapped moisture can easily evaporate. > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 20-7-2017 om 18:32 schreef Robert F. Begani: >> >> Hi Steve: >> >> 20 years ago after I got my BJ8 back from a shop, who restored the >> car, while driving down the road oil squired out on to my pants from >> a loose fitting on the oil line. Going back to the shop they just >> tighten the nut. I have good oil pressure, but, all ways have oil >> residue in the gauge. Ideas on how to clean the gauge before >> installing the engine trans etc. in the fall? >> >> Bob Begani >> >> Bj8 ?67 >> >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Thu Jul 20 17:36:18 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charlie Schott) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 18:36:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Luggage Rack References: <000801d3005a$0286c640$079452c0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> My two used pins have been sold but I can have the hinge pins locally made and can supply two pins with acorn nuts for $40. Please let me know if you are interested and I will have a quantity made. Thanks. Regards, Charlie Schott Panama City Beach, FL From: Simon Lachlan Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2017 1:41 AM To: 'Dennis Gavin' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Luggage Rack I?d like a pair of those pins too????. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Gavin Sent: 18 July 2017 00:08 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 Luggage Rack I bought my 63 BJ7 back in 1984. It came with a luggage rack that attached to the boot hinges with additional hardware I no longer have. In 08 we did a total restoration and I can only assume I lost the hinge pin rack attachment hardware. The rack is in good condition so I?d really like to find a source for the attachment hinge pin that I think I remember. This is the type that has lower legs that are supported by the rear bumper and the upper portion attached to the boot hinges. I hope I?ve explained this OK and look forward to finding a source. Thanking you all in advance. Dennis Gavin 63 BJ7 63 E Type 48 Willys Jeepster 02 XJ8 Cell: 617-680-8855 Centerville, MA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jul 20 20:37:53 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2017 19:37:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: re: "... The second time it was done at a fancy (read expensive) Healey specialty shop near Sioux City IA, and he had the head planed, checked the block for level, and put in new head studs, gasket, etc. For what it cost, I would hope it was done correctly." Did they magnaflux the head? Bob On 7/19/2017 7:22 PM, John O'Brien wrote: > Thanks Bob. > > I just had my car to the shop before our trip and the timing was set > to the spec. 10 degrees BTDC. I did have a problem one day in Waco > where the car was running rough, missing, and finally quit on me. > Finally discovered the rotor molded-in key had sheered so the rotor > was not staying properly positioned on the shaft. I had a spare rotor > and replaced it, and it ran fine again. I will check the new rotor to > make sure it is okay, since that could obviously cause a timing > issue. The car ran fine the next day after the overheating, the rest > of the way home, several hundred miles, but it was not as hot > outside. My mechanic has new needles for the HD8s ordered, because it > is running rich, but I think a rich mixture would make it run cooler > rather than hotter, if I remember correctly from my private pilot days. > > I'm hoping I don't have a bad head gasket again! I've had it replaced > twice since I got the car. The second time it was done at a fancy > (read expensive) Healey specialty shop near Sioux City IA, and he had > the head planed, checked the block for level, and put in new head > studs, gasket, etc. For what it cost, I would hope it was done > correctly. The reason it's been changed twice is because I was > getting some oil in the coolant. I've had oil in the coolant still > since the last time it was changed, but I thought it might be residual > oil that was trapped in the block, heater core etc, from before the > last gasket change, and so I drained refilled with water and Dawn dish > soap and ran it and then rinsed, refilled, ran, rinsed etc. until I > saw no more signs of oil - several exchanges of coolant. I hadn't > seen oil in there after that, but hadn't run the car much since then > either. I checked after this trip and there is oil in the coolant > again. I was believing that I have one of the blocks that seeps oil > through the oil passage where it is very close to the water jacket, > but now I am not sure what to think. I never see any sign of coolant > on the oil, and I would think that after the car is shut off, the > coolant would stay pressurized until the heat dissipates, while the > oil pressure would drop to nothing, so you'd think coolant might find > it's way into the oil through the same path the oil gets to the coolant. > > Possibly my cooling issue and the oil seepage share a common cause? > > Thanks for the opinions and collective wisdom. > > John > > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > > '61 Bugeye (Lucy) > On 7/19/2017 6:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> My thoughts too. I've done everything Kees suggested, with the >> exception of the electric fan. My BJ8 will go 80mph all day in >> 100+degF heat--just did almost five thousand miles through southern >> CA, NV, AZ, UT, WY, MT, WA, OR and 3 Canadian provinces--and stay >> below 190degF, and my BN2 will do 70mph on hot days and stay below >> 190, which amazes me because it has that goofy, one piece cast >> aluminium fan. Neither will even get up to 180--thermo >> setpoint--unless it's at least 75deg out. I did hit 212 one time >> pulling the Panamint grade out of Death Valley on a 115deg day (had >> to use the heater as an auxiliary radiator--that was fun). >> >> John's car is heating up at speed, which is not the usual problem >> (which is heating up in stop-and-go traffic). I'm thinking there are >> other issues--timing, mixture, crud in the block, ineffective pump, >> etc.--that an Al radiator may help mask, but sooner or later the >> piper has to be paid. Anyway, isn't the main/only benefit of an Al >> radiator is a bit of weight saving? IIRC, copper and brass are >> better heat conductors than Al. >> >> I know I didn't answer your question, John, but I suspect a shiny new >> radiator isn't going to fix the underlying problem. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 7/19/2017 3:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote: >>> Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH >>> or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted >>> to your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. >>> An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. >>> >>> Kees Oudesluijs >>> >>> >>> Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: >>>> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. >>>> >>>> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a >>>> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska >>>> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and >>>> hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool >>>> down. It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some >>>> antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over >>>> 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I >>>> had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. >>>> >>>> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. >>>> I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have >>>> a heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with >>>> the aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ >>>> free shipping >>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr >>>> >>>> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping >>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr >>>> >>>> >>>> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan >>>> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey >>>> rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for >>>> $499.00, >>>> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ >>>> that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look >>>> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck >>>> like the Wizard. >>>> >>>> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. >>>> >>>> John O'Brien >>>> >>>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >>>> >>>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy) >>>> >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net >> >> > > From RFBegani at speakeasy.net Fri Jul 21 07:42:18 2017 From: RFBegani at speakeasy.net (Robert F. Begani) Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2017 09:42:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cleaning Oil Pressure Gauge Thanks to all for your comments. I will try to clean the gauge very carefully. Let you know in the fall how it goes. And, I will look for the leather washer when I take it of the pipe. Fortunately, the oil pressure showed 20 psi before rebuilding. The machinist who did the work on the engine was impressed that it was is such good condition. However he said in 10-15,000 miles it would have required a rebuild. Then he mentioned you must have changed your oil often. I mentioned zinc additive and he agreed, it helps. Bob Begani BJ8 '67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Fri Jul 21 08:02:33 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charlie Schott) Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2017 09:02:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] AH Luggage Rack References: Erb, Here is a picture of the parts. If anyone is interested in acquiring these parts, I have a source for them. Please let me know. Regards, Charlie Schott From: i erbs Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2017 3:54 PM To: Dennis Gavin Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Luggage Rack post when you find a source Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 4:07 PM, Dennis Gavin wrote: I bought my 63 BJ7 back in 1984. It came with a luggage rack that attached to the boot hinges with additional hardware I no longer have. In 08 we did a total restoration and I can only assume I lost the hinge pin rack attachment hardware. The rack is in good condition so I?d really like to find a source for the attachment hinge pin that I think I remember. This is the type that has lower legs that are supported by the rear bumper and the upper portion attached to the boot hinges. I hope I?ve explained this OK and look forward to finding a source. Thanking you all in advance. Dennis Gavin 63 BJ7 63 E Type 48 Willys Jeepster 02 XJ8 Cell: 617-680-8855 Centerville, MA _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN3542.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 524480 bytes Desc: not available URL: From banjojohn at cox.net Fri Jul 21 09:15:58 2017 From: banjojohn at cox.net (John O'Brien) Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2017 10:15:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available References: Yes they did. I forgot to mention that. John On 7/20/2017 9:37 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > re: "... The second time it was done at a fancy (read expensive) > Healey specialty shop near Sioux City IA, and he had the head planed, > checked the block for level, and put in new head studs, gasket, etc. > For what it cost, I would hope it was done correctly." > > Did they magnaflux the head? > > Bob > > > On 7/19/2017 7:22 PM, John O'Brien wrote: >> Thanks Bob. >> >> I just had my car to the shop before our trip and the timing was set >> to the spec. 10 degrees BTDC. I did have a problem one day in Waco >> where the car was running rough, missing, and finally quit on me. >> Finally discovered the rotor molded-in key had sheered so the rotor >> was not staying properly positioned on the shaft. I had a spare >> rotor and replaced it, and it ran fine again. I will check the new >> rotor to make sure it is okay, since that could obviously cause a >> timing issue. The car ran fine the next day after the overheating, >> the rest of the way home, several hundred miles, but it was not as >> hot outside. My mechanic has new needles for the HD8s ordered, >> because it is running rich, but I think a rich mixture would make it >> run cooler rather than hotter, if I remember correctly from my >> private pilot days. >> >> I'm hoping I don't have a bad head gasket again! I've had it >> replaced twice since I got the car. The second time it was done at a >> fancy (read expensive) Healey specialty shop near Sioux City IA, and >> he had the head planed, checked the block for level, and put in new >> head studs, gasket, etc. For what it cost, I would hope it was done >> correctly. The reason it's been changed twice is because I was >> getting some oil in the coolant. I've had oil in the coolant still >> since the last time it was changed, but I thought it might be >> residual oil that was trapped in the block, heater core etc, from >> before the last gasket change, and so I drained refilled with water >> and Dawn dish soap and ran it and then rinsed, refilled, ran, rinsed >> etc. until I saw no more signs of oil - several exchanges of >> coolant. I hadn't seen oil in there after that, but hadn't run the >> car much since then either. I checked after this trip and there is >> oil in the coolant again. I was believing that I have one of the >> blocks that seeps oil through the oil passage where it is very close >> to the water jacket, but now I am not sure what to think. I never see >> any sign of coolant on the oil, and I would think that after the car >> is shut off, the coolant would stay pressurized until the heat >> dissipates, while the oil pressure would drop to nothing, so you'd >> think coolant might find it's way into the oil through the same path >> the oil gets to the coolant. >> >> Possibly my cooling issue and the oil seepage share a common cause? >> >> Thanks for the opinions and collective wisdom. >> >> John >> >> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >> >> '61 Bugeye (Lucy) >> On 7/19/2017 6:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >>> My thoughts too. I've done everything Kees suggested, with the >>> exception of the electric fan. My BJ8 will go 80mph all day in >>> 100+degF heat--just did almost five thousand miles through southern >>> CA, NV, AZ, UT, WY, MT, WA, OR and 3 Canadian provinces--and stay >>> below 190degF, and my BN2 will do 70mph on hot days and stay below >>> 190, which amazes me because it has that goofy, one piece cast >>> aluminium fan. Neither will even get up to 180--thermo >>> setpoint--unless it's at least 75deg out. I did hit 212 one time >>> pulling the Panamint grade out of Death Valley on a 115deg day (had >>> to use the heater as an auxiliary radiator--that was fun). >>> >>> John's car is heating up at speed, which is not the usual problem >>> (which is heating up in stop-and-go traffic). I'm thinking there >>> are other issues--timing, mixture, crud in the block, ineffective >>> pump, etc.--that an Al radiator may help mask, but sooner or later >>> the piper has to be paid. Anyway, isn't the main/only benefit of an >>> Al radiator is a bit of weight saving? IIRC, copper and brass are >>> better heat conductors than Al. >>> >>> I know I didn't answer your question, John, but I suspect a shiny >>> new radiator isn't going to fix the underlying problem. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> On 7/19/2017 3:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote: >>>> Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper >>>> SMITH or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core >>>> fitted to your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan. >>>> An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one. >>>> >>>> Kees Oudesluijs >>>> >>>> >>>> Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien: >>>>> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. >>>>> >>>>> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a >>>>> great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska >>>>> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and >>>>> hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool >>>>> down. It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some >>>>> antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over >>>>> 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. >>>>> I had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot >>>>> day. >>>>> >>>>> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum >>>>> one. I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and >>>>> never have a heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any >>>>> experience with the aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley >>>>> for $355.00 w/ free shipping >>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr >>>>> >>>>> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping >>>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan >>>>> guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original >>>>> Healey rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard >>>>> Cooling for $499.00, >>>>> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ >>>>> that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look >>>>> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck >>>>> like the Wizard. >>>>> >>>>> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. >>>>> >>>>> John O'Brien >>>>> >>>>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >>>>> >>>>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy) >>>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net >>> >>> >> >> > > From g.rude at q.com Fri Jul 21 09:32:21 2017 From: g.rude at q.com (Gerald Rude) Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2017 08:32:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available Hello John, lets see if this works, its been a while since I've posted to this forum: Regarding the Aluminum vs. Copper radiator issue, I would just like to suggest from an engineering perspective the pros and cons: First off in terms of performance from a heat transfer outlook, if two identical radiators were tested, but one copper and one aluminum, the two would perform nearly the same, with the nod going to the copper one. The reason that the copper cannot significantly out perform the aluminum radiator is based on how it is constructed. When the fins are bonded to the tubes, solder is used, and solder doesn't conduct heat nearly as well as copper nor aluminum. So there is some resistance to the heat flow making the comparison nearly equal. Secondly, aluminum radiators, at least those that are being spoken of (custom, welded ones) are not able to be disassembled for cleaning as with copper or, for that matter, modern ones with plastic header tanks. So copper is better from a maintenance perspective. Thirdly, aluminum radiators are available only in the serpentine fin configuration, whereas copper is available in both serpentine (as Moss sells) and flat fin (as available if you recore your original unit and as they were in the original configuration). With recoring that will appear as original, you have several options: Flat fin, four row which will fit with no modifications, Flat fin 5 row which requires the side supports to be slightly modified, or Flat fin, 6 row which requires the manufacture of a new lower header tank. And of course there is the visual aspect that the aluminum radiator doesn't really look appealing in an old british sports car 8^). So if you are considering upgrading your radiator, and decide to recore, don't take what the radiator repair shop first offers, make him present you with ALL of your options, not just the cheapest or easiest 3 row serpentine core (which is a marginal performer as I found out much to my chagrin). Jerry Rude BJ8 with upgraded, flat fin, 5 row core Message: 2 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2017 16:21:43 -0500 From: John O'Brien To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay. I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco. We had a great time and met many nice folks. On our way home to Nebraska driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool down. It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some antifreeze solution too. It seemed like, once the gauge got over 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day. So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one. I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have a heat problem. I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the aluminum radiators on ebay. One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-m anual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000 &epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/2529 84917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000 &hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan guard looks different. The GPI looks more like the original Healey rad. I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for $499.00, https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ that looks very close to the GPI. The Worley and GPI do not look like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like the Wizard. Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated. John O'Brien '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) '61 Bugeye (Lucy) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Jul 21 10:34:50 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2017 17:34:50 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] AH Luggage Rack References: These look very smart but I?m not sure how they?d stay located. Don?t they need to be, as it were, a nut and bolt? Mine came with one original or at least something that I took to be original. It had an acorn nut on one end and a hex on the other. All in chrome. I?ve actually put in a pair of small chrome or stainless nuts & bolts and can?t lay my hands on the supposedly original. Lots of drawers in my so-called workshop. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Schott Sent: 21 July 2017 15:03 To: i erbs; Dennis Gavin Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH Luggage Rack Erb, Here is a picture of the parts. If anyone is interested in acquiring these parts, I have a source for them. Please let me know. Regards, Charlie Schott From: i erbs Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2017 3:54 PM To: Dennis Gavin Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Luggage Rack post when you find a source Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 4:07 PM, Dennis Gavin wrote: I bought my 63 BJ7 back in 1984. It came with a luggage rack that attached to the boot hinges with additional hardware I no longer have. In 08 we did a total restoration and I can only assume I lost the hinge pin rack attachment hardware. The rack is in good condition so I?d really like to find a source for the attachment hinge pin that I think I remember. This is the type that has lower legs that are supported by the rear bumper and the upper portion attached to the boot hinges. I hope I?ve explained this OK and look forward to finding a source. Thanking you all in advance. Dennis Gavin 63 BJ7 63 E Type 48 Willys Jeepster 02 XJ8 Cell: 617-680-8855 Centerville, MA _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Sat Jul 22 07:45:54 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charlie Schott) Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2017 08:45:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] AH Luggage Rack References: <003001d3023f$464b94f0$d2e2bed0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Simon, The pins are trapped in place by the luggage rack. It won?t let them ?walk? out. I can furnish ones that look exactly like the originals, per the photo. Regards, Charlie From: Simon Lachlan Sent: Friday, July 21, 2017 11:34 AM To: 'Charlie Schott' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] AH Luggage Rack These look very smart but I?m not sure how they?d stay located. Don?t they need to be, as it were, a nut and bolt? Mine came with one original or at least something that I took to be original. It had an acorn nut on one end and a hex on the other. All in chrome. I?ve actually put in a pair of small chrome or stainless nuts & bolts and can?t lay my hands on the supposedly original. Lots of drawers in my so-called workshop. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Schott Sent: 21 July 2017 15:03 To: i erbs; Dennis Gavin Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] AH Luggage Rack Erb, Here is a picture of the parts. If anyone is interested in acquiring these parts, I have a source for them. Please let me know. Regards, Charlie Schott From: i erbs Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2017 3:54 PM To: Dennis Gavin Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ7 Luggage Rack post when you find a source Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jul 17, 2017 at 4:07 PM, Dennis Gavin wrote: I bought my 63 BJ7 back in 1984. It came with a luggage rack that attached to the boot hinges with additional hardware I no longer have. In 08 we did a total restoration and I can only assume I lost the hinge pin rack attachment hardware. The rack is in good condition so I?d really like to find a source for the attachment hinge pin that I think I remember. This is the type that has lower legs that are supported by the rear bumper and the upper portion attached to the boot hinges. I hope I?ve explained this OK and look forward to finding a source. Thanking you all in advance. Dennis Gavin 63 BJ7 63 E Type 48 Willys Jeepster 02 XJ8 Cell: 617-680-8855 Centerville, MA _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN3542.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 524480 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat Jul 22 20:30:55 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2017 19:30:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Horn push for 3000 non-adjustable column Some time back there was talk of someone reproducing the horn buttons for 100-6 and 3000 with non-adjustable columns and the encircled 6 in the flash. Did anything come of this? One of the ears broke off mine years ago and after multiple repairs with epoxy putty, I'm not sure I can fix it again. Anybody have a source? Mine has some internal cracking, which either gives it patina or makes it look old, depending on whether you're a glass half full or empty kind of person. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Jul 23 01:22:42 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2017 09:22:42 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Horn push for 3000 non-adjustable column References: <05d201d3035b$b67da070$2378e150$@roadrunner.com> Epoxy repair putty is not very good for the proper repair of parts that carry some load. Adhesion is not all that great. Bakelite can be perfectly repaired using Araldite, but first all traces of the putty have to be removed. Cracks can be filled when you open these up using a hacksaw blade, scalpel, Dremel etc. Just slightly bending the material to open up the crack a bit may cause the object to break completely. Cleanliness is absolute key so clean everything thoroughly using brake cleaner and let dry for a good while. Use tape to create some kind of a mould to prevent the Araldite running of. After 24hrs you can shape the Araldite using a Dremel, file, sandpaper and finish with fine wet 'n dry. After the repair the parts can be painted satin black. Kees Oudesluijs Op 23-7-2017 om 4:30 schreef Bruce Steele: > > Some time back there was talk of someone reproducing the horn buttons > for 100-6 and 3000 with non-adjustable columns and the encircled 6 in > the flash. Did anything come of this? One of the ears broke off mine > years ago and after multiple repairs with epoxy putty, I?m not sure I > can fix it again. Anybody have a source? Mine has some internal > cracking, which either gives it patina or makes it look old, depending > on whether you?re a glass half full or empty kind of person. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Jul 23 05:53:00 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2017 07:53:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Horn push for 3000 non-adjustable column References: <05d201d3035b$b67da070$2378e150$@roadrunner.com> Kees, I've heard of "Araldite", but not familiar with it. Not something I've run across in the local hardware store. Wikipedia says that it refers to a line of epoxy, acrylic and polyurethane adhesives; first used for a two-part epoxy in 1946. Which are you referring too? The 100-6/3000 horn buttons aren't Bakelite, but clear plastic with reverse side painting. Brake cleaner would probably soften the plastic. Does Araldite dry clear? Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 07/23/2017 03:22 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > Epoxy repair putty is not very good for the proper repair of parts that > carry some load. Adhesion is not all that great. Bakelite can be > perfectly repaired using Araldite, but first all traces of the putty > have to be removed. Cracks can be filled when you open these up using a > hacksaw blade, scalpel, Dremel etc. Just slightly bending the material > to open up the crack a bit may cause the object to break completely. > Cleanliness is absolute key so clean everything thoroughly using brake > cleaner and let dry for a good while. > Use tape to create some kind of a mould to prevent the Araldite running of. > After 24hrs you can shape the Araldite using a Dremel, file, sandpaper > and finish with fine wet 'n dry. After the repair the parts can be > painted satin black. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 23-7-2017 om 4:30 schreef Bruce Steele: >> >> Some time back there was talk of someone reproducing the horn buttons >> for 100-6 and 3000 with non-adjustable columns and the encircled 6 in >> the flash. Did anything come of this? One of the ears broke off mine >> years ago and after multiple repairs with epoxy putty, I?m not sure I >> can fix it again. Anybody have a source? Mine has some internal >> cracking, which either gives it patina or makes it look old, depending >> on whether you?re a glass half full or empty kind of person. >> >> Bruce Steele >> >> Brea, CA >> >> 1960 BN7 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Jul 23 08:12:45 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2017 10:12:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Part needed Anyone have a spare (left side rear side window channel) that you would be willing to sell? Bj8 or BJ7 should work. BTW, I have an excellent right side one if you want to trade. TIA tom From agrossman at pacific.net Sun Jul 23 08:49:48 2017 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2017 07:49:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Amco Tonneau Hi, My BN4 came with a new tonneau, and a used Amco with a small hole near the back.Easy repair. It has a few white stains, I'm pretty sure will clean off. Free if anyone here can use it. I'm in the NorCal hinterlands, so I guess I'll have to ship. You reimburse please. Cheers, Alan --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Jul 23 09:42:32 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2017 17:42:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Horn push for 3000 non-adjustable column References: <05d201d3035b$b67da070$2378e150$@roadrunner.com> <92af666d-6feb-4532-6d07-33aa27518780@earthlink.net> Bob, The regular Araldite is a 2-component (50/50) epoxy that is slow setting and can be applied in about a half to full hour time span at 20?C. It will be fully set after more than 24hrs. You can soften it up only once by heating it up to 100?C to adjust or undo, however most plastic will not be up to that. It is a clear substance but will yellow in time. There are plenty of other makes but I always have had best results with the genuine Araldite. We used it in the early '70's at BOC in the UK in the (militairy) avation R&D department. When in the UK I always buy it as it is often not available elsewhere. I assumed that the broken up parts were Bakelite. Wrong apparently. If the horn button is clear plastic there is a chance it will work, but most thermoplastic materials are not very suitable for glueing compared to thermosetting materials. PVC, ABS, Perspex and some others can be glued reasonably well but PE and PP cannot be glued at all. Perspex can often be glued successfully using acetone when the pieces are a perfect fit. I do not think brake cleaner will do any harm but try on a scrap piece first to make sure. Sometimes certain solvents cause some clear plastics to craze/crack. Cheers, Kees Oudesluijs Op 23-7-2017 om 13:53 schreef Bob Haskell: > Kees, > > I've heard of "Araldite", but not familiar with it. Not something I've > run across in the local hardware store. Wikipedia says that it refers > to a line of epoxy, acrylic and polyurethane adhesives; first used for > a two-part epoxy in 1946. Which are you referring too? > > The 100-6/3000 horn buttons aren't Bakelite, but clear plastic with > reverse side painting. Brake cleaner would probably soften the > plastic. Does Araldite dry clear? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 07/23/2017 03:22 AM, Oudesluys wrote: >> Epoxy repair putty is not very good for the proper repair of parts >> that carry some load. Adhesion is not all that great. Bakelite can be >> perfectly repaired using Araldite, but first all traces of the putty >> have to be removed. Cracks can be filled when you open these up using >> a hacksaw blade, scalpel, Dremel etc. Just slightly bending the >> material to open up the crack a bit may cause the object to break >> completely. Cleanliness is absolute key so clean everything >> thoroughly using brake cleaner and let dry for a good while. >> Use tape to create some kind of a mould to prevent the Araldite >> running of. >> After 24hrs you can shape the Araldite using a Dremel, file, >> sandpaper and finish with fine wet 'n dry. After the repair the parts >> can be painted satin black. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> Op 23-7-2017 om 4:30 schreef Bruce Steele: >>> >>> Some time back there was talk of someone reproducing the horn >>> buttons for 100-6 and 3000 with non-adjustable columns and the >>> encircled 6 in the flash. Did anything come of this? One of the >>> ears broke off mine years ago and after multiple repairs with epoxy >>> putty, I?m not sure I can fix it again. Anybody have a source? >>> Mine has some internal cracking, which either gives it patina or >>> makes it look old, depending on whether you?re a glass half full or >>> empty kind of person. >>> >>> Bruce Steele >>> >>> Brea, CA >>> >>> 1960 BN7 >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >>> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > From gablegerry at netscape.net Sun Jul 23 12:46:30 2017 From: gablegerry at netscape.net (gablegerry at netscape.net) Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2017 14:46:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] oil pan Would like to replace the oil pan on a BN6. Looking for steel or alum. and were to get it from . thanks Hap -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Jul 23 13:31:30 2017 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2017 19:31:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque for price of shipping Moving, Healey Marque magazine approximately 50 issues, almost all from 2000-2001 and 2007-2008. All in good shape except there are two or three with rips on the front or back cover. Free for price of shipping in a large priority mail flat rate box. All or none, first come first served, paypal postage to me, thanks Greg Lemon, Lincoln, NE From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Jul 23 17:14:47 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2017 19:14:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Part needed update-------burried deep in a parts bucket of mine was a left side-------so---all is back together. thaks tom ---- Tom Felts wrote: ============= Anyone have a spare (left side rear side window channel) that you would be willing to sell? Bj8 or BJ7 should work. BTW, I have an excellent right side one if you want to trade. TIA tom _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From ah3000me at gmail.com Mon Jul 24 19:20:06 2017 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2017 21:20:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil in oil/water temp gauge References: <027c01d3015e$ea08df80$be1a9e80$@rr.com> <087201d30175$bafd24f0$30f76ed0$@speakeasy.net> <639a3b67-00de-c7ab-3a10-354170f28b10@chello.nl> I've been away from this email list for a couple of days, but I'd like to thank everyone (14 of you!) for your advice. I'll start with the connection and hope that takes care of things. If not, it's time to pop open the gauge and see what's happening. Keeping a 50-year old British car on the road is certainly much easier and more fun with the collected wisdom and experience of this list. thanks again, Tom On Thu, Jul 20, 2017 at 6:07 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > "... in some instances the white lettering of the SMITHS/Jaeger/LUCAS > gauges can be easily wiped away, even with water, so do not wipe!!!" > > Amen to that. That is why I suggested 'electronic cleaner;' it doesn't > seem to affect paint. > > > > On 7/20/2017 11:13 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > Remove bezel and glass and use brake cleaner to clean the internals and > face. However be careful as in some instances the white lettering of the > SMITHS/Jaeger/LUCAS gauges can be easily wiped away, even with water, so do > not wipe!!! > To remove the bezel lift the tabs slightly and rotate the bezel until the > tabs line up with the holes in the body rim. Carefully lift the glass. > After that the bezel and glass can be cleaned. Do not bother to replace the > sealing. It is not necessary and counterproductive as now trapped moisture > can easily evaporate. > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 20-7-2017 om 18:32 schreef Robert F. Begani: > > Hi Steve: > > > > 20 years ago after I got my BJ8 back from a shop, who restored the car, > while driving down the road oil squired out on to my pants from a loose > fitting on the oil line. Going back to the shop they just tighten the > nut. I have good oil pressure, but, all ways have oil residue in the > gauge. Ideas on how to clean the gauge before installing the engine trans > etc. in the fall? > > > > Bob Begani > > Bj8 ?67 > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Jul 27 03:51:32 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2017 05:51:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] on ebay - now that's different http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-/263103095441?hash=item3d422aa291:g:Y-AAAOSwuMZZKdoe&vxp=mtr NFI Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From s.hutchings at rogers.com Thu Jul 27 07:24:46 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2017 13:24:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation References: <852087168.294513.1501161886712.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I won't get around to this before the car comes off the road for the winter, but I've got the leather pieces for my front seats (BJ8), and I'm gathering all the advice and tips I can get ahead of time for the installation. I've watched Matthew Randell's video, but the 100-6 seats are a bit different.I'd like to hear from those that have done this, particularly on what to glue and what not to. I'm concerned that the foam backing on the seat cushion part may not take well to contact cement.Anyway, I'd appreciate the benefit of your experience. Please don't reply that I should hire a pro, because I've already made that decision based on what I've been able to do so far.Thanks,Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Thu Jul 27 08:21:01 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2017 10:21:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] on ebay - now that's different Actually made me a little nauseous Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Haskell To: Healey List Sent: Thu, 27 Jul 2017 05:51:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] on ebay - now that's different http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-/263103095441?hash=item3d422aa291:g:Y-AAAOSwuMZZKdoe&vxp=mtr NFI Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jul 27 08:56:12 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2017 07:56:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation References: <852087168.294513.1501161886712.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <852087168.294513.1501161886712@mail.yahoo.com> Weldwood is the best, IMO (and my upholsterer's opinion): https://www.ebay.com/i/282523944709?chn=ps&dispItem=1 But, for just a couple seats, this should be enough: https://www.amazon.com/3M-08090-Super-Yellow-Adhesive/dp/B0002JMPRK Neither will damage the foam. Bob On 7/27/2017 6:24 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > I won't get around to this before the car comes off the road for the > winter, but I've got the leather pieces for my front seats (BJ8), and > I'm gathering all the advice and tips I can get ahead of time for the > installation. I've watched Matthew Randell's video, but the 100-6 > seats are a bit different. > I'd like to hear from those that have done this, particularly on what > to glue and what not to. I'm concerned that the foam backing on the > seat cushion part may not take well to contact cement. > Anyway, I'd appreciate the benefit of your experience. > > Please don't reply that I should hire a pro, because I've already made > that decision based on what I've been able to do so far. > Thanks, > Stephen, BJ8 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Thu Jul 27 11:22:32 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2017 17:22:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation References: <1540423702.453460.1501176152945.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks very much for all the replies to my request on info for the seat installation. Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Jul 27 14:29:43 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2017 16:29:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation References: <852087168.294513.1501161886712.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <852087168.294513.1501161886712@mail.yahoo.com> I installed the leather upholstery in my BJ8 in 1999. Photos taken today (after 89000 miles) are attached for the driver's seat. I used the standard metal clips around the bottom to attach the seat back leather to the frame, but as I recall (according to the instructions I was using) I did glue the center part of the seat back cover (outlined by the piping) to the foam to maintain its curvature with the seat back. I did not glue the cover to the seat pan foam, but just to the bottom of the metal pan where it wraps over at the rear. The rivets are to make sure it wouldn't come loose. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2017 9:25 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation I won't get around to this before the car comes off the road for the winter, but I've got the leather pieces for my front seats (BJ8), and I'm gathering all the advice and tips I can get ahead of time for the installation. I've watched Matthew Randell's video, but the 100-6 seats are a bit different. I'd like to hear from those that have done this, particularly on what to glue and what not to. I'm concerned that the foam backing on the seat cushion part may not take well to contact cement. Anyway, I'd appreciate the benefit of your experience. Please don't reply that I should hire a pro, because I've already made that decision based on what I've been able to do so far. Thanks, Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2971.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 244134 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2972.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 328090 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: BJ8Healeys To: 'Healey List' Sent: Thu, 27 Jul 2017 16:29:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation I installed the leather upholstery in my BJ8 in 1999. Photos taken today (after 89000 miles) are attached for the driver's seat.I used the standard metal clips around the bottom to attach the seat back leather to the frame, but as I recall (according to the instructions I was using) I did glue the center part of the seat back cover (outlined by the piping) to the foam to maintain its curvature with the seat back.I did not glue the cover to the seat pan foam, but just to the bottom of the metal pan where it wraps over at the rear. The rivets are to make sure it wouldn't come loose. Steve ByersHBJ8L/36666BJ8 RegistryAHCA Delegate at LargeHavelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2017 9:25 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation I won't get around to this before the car comes off the road for the winter, but I've got the leather pieces for my front seats (BJ8), and I'm gathering all the advice and tips I can get ahead of time for the installation. I've watched Matthew Randell's video, but the 100-6 seats are a bit different.I'd like to hear from those that have done this, particularly on what to glue and what not to. I'm concerned that the foam backing on the seat cushion part may not take well to contact cement.Anyway, I'd appreciate the benefit of your experience. Please don't reply that I should hire a pro, because I've already made that decision based on what I've been able to do so far.Thanks,Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Jul 27 17:49:59 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2017 19:49:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation References: <825839169.241160971.1501195150332.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> It has been a long time, but as I recall the pleats in the seat bottom were pre-sewn and filled out when I installed the cover, but have flattened out over the last 18 years of carrying my butt around. I may be wrong. The pleats in the rear seat pans are still full. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Tim Davis BN7 [mailto:tld6008 at mchsi.com] Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2017 6:39 PM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation I did mine much as you did. I do recall gluing Muslin material to certain areas and using a plastic dry cleaning bag to help get the covers onto the seat back (pulled free afterwards). What I didn't know and it looks like you may not have either is the trick to get the pleats in the leather covers to fill out. Some of the old seats I have taken apart had padding (looked like cotten batting) stuffed in places to fill out areas for a better contour. Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Thu Jul 27 18:28:56 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2017 00:28:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation References: <825839169.241160971.1501195150332.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com>, <055401d30733$10ed73c0$32c85b40$@rr.com> I am redoing the seats on my BN7 with a Moss kit. The old original bottom pleats were full as Steve notes below but the new kits are not. Neither are leather. Regards, Richard C It has been a long time, but as I recall the pleats in the seat bottom were pre-sewn and filled out when I installed the cover, but have flattened out over the last 18 years of carrying my butt around. I may be wrong. The pleats in the rear seat pans are still full. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Tim Davis BN7 [mailto:tld6008 at mchsi.com] Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2017 6:39 PM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation I did mine much as you did. I do recall gluing Muslin material to certain areas and using a plastic dry cleaning bag to help get the covers onto the seat back (pulled free afterwards). What I didn't know and it looks like you may not have either is the trick to get the pleats in the leather covers to fill out. Some of the old seats I have taken apart had padding (looked like cotten batting) stuffed in places to fill out areas for a better contour. Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Thu Jul 27 19:37:00 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2017 11:37:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation References: <825839169.241160971.1501195150332.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com>, <055401d30733$10ed73c0$32c85b40$@rr.com> My upholsterer at the time slid foam (about ?? thick) cut to size into the pockets- used a ruler to assist getting them into place John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Collins Sent: Friday, 28 July 2017 10:29 AM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation I am redoing the seats on my BN7 with a Moss kit. The old original bottom pleats were full as Steve notes below but the new kits are not. Neither are leather. Regards, Richard C On Jul 27, 2017, at 6:53 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: It has been a long time, but as I recall the pleats in the seat bottom were pre-sewn and filled out when I installed the cover, but have flattened out over the last 18 years of carrying my butt around. I may be wrong. The pleats in the rear seat pans are still full. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Tim Davis BN7 [mailto:tld6008 at mchsi.com] Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2017 6:39 PM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation I did mine much as you did. I do recall gluing Muslin material to certain areas and using a plastic dry cleaning bag to help get the covers onto the seat back (pulled free afterwards). What I didn't know and it looks like you may not have either is the trick to get the pleats in the leather covers to fill out. Some of the old seats I have taken apart had padding (looked like cotten batting) stuffed in places to fill out areas for a better contour. Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Thu Jul 27 19:54:59 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2017 01:54:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation References: <825839169.241160971.1501195150332.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com>, <055401d30733$10ed73c0$32c85b40$@rr.com> , <000c01d30742$0286a1d0$0793e570$@com.au> That is what the English videos indicate. I have some 1/4" foam to use and also some other filler. Not sure Moss has any tech videos to help with this; I have seen a few pro jobs done with these seats and they came out awesome but it seems a DIY could do as well. I am trying to get the nerve to try it. I have done a few trial fits and bought a new bag of clips but gluing is making me nervous as it is generally non reversible Regards, Richard C My upholsterer at the time slid foam (about ?? thick) cut to size into the pockets- used a ruler to assist getting them into place John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Collins Sent: Friday, 28 July 2017 10:29 AM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation I am redoing the seats on my BN7 with a Moss kit. The old original bottom pleats were full as Steve notes below but the new kits are not. Neither are leather. Regards, Richard C It has been a long time, but as I recall the pleats in the seat bottom were pre-sewn and filled out when I installed the cover, but have flattened out over the last 18 years of carrying my butt around. I may be wrong. The pleats in the rear seat pans are still full. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eschulz at frontiernet.net Thu Jul 27 21:11:37 2017 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2017 23:11:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation References: <825839169.241160971.1501195150332.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com>, <055401d30733$10ed73c0$32c85b40$@rr.com> I used the Moss kit on my BJ7. The seat bottoms turned out ok, but the seat backs were another problem altogether. The leather cover was too tight such that it would not slide all the way over the foam/seat frame, even with the trick of using a plastic bag to force it in. Elton On 7/27/2017 8:28 PM, Richard Collins wrote: > I am redoing the seats on my BN7 with a Moss kit. The old original > bottom pleats were full as Steve notes below but the new kits are not. > Neither are leather. > > Regards, > Richard C > > > On Jul 27, 2017, at 6:53 PM, BJ8Healeys >> It has been a long time, but as I recall the pleats in the seat >> bottom were pre-sewn and filled out when I installed the cover, but >> have flattened out over the last 18 years of carrying my butt >> around. I may be wrong. The pleats in the rear seat pans are still >> full. >> >> Steve Byers >> >> HBJ8L/36666 >> >> BJ8 Registry >> >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> >> Havelock, NC >> >> *From:*Tim Davis BN7 [mailto:tld6008 at mchsi.com] >> *Sent:* Thursday, July 27, 2017 6:39 PM >> *To:* BJ8Healeys >> *Cc:* 'Healey List' >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation >> >> I did mine much as you did. I do recall gluing Muslin material to >> certain areas and using a plastic dry cleaning bag to help get the >> covers onto the seat back (pulled free afterwards). What I didn't >> know and it looks like you may not have either is the trick to get >> the pleats in the leather covers to fill out. Some of the old seats I >> have taken apart had padding (looked like cotten batting) stuffed in >> places to fill out areas for a better contour. >> >> >> Tim Davis BN7 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Thu Jul 27 21:20:02 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2017 03:20:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation References: <825839169.241160971.1501195150332.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com>, <055401d30733$10ed73c0$32c85b40$@rr.com> , <597AAB69.2060508@frontiernet.net> I think my backs are ok at least from a preliminary look. It's the fitment/cut on the bottom that appears to be short.. Regards, Richard C I used the Moss kit on my BJ7. The seat bottoms turned out ok, but the seat backs were another problem altogether. The leather cover was too tight such that it would not slide all the way over the foam/seat frame, even with the trick of using a plastic bag to force it in. Elton On 7/27/2017 8:28 PM, Richard Collins wrote: I am redoing the seats on my BN7 with a Moss kit. The old original bottom pleats were full as Steve notes below but the new kits are not. Neither are leather. Regards, Richard C It has been a long time, but as I recall the pleats in the seat bottom were pre-sewn and filled out when I installed the cover, but have flattened out over the last 18 years of carrying my butt around. I may be wrong. The pleats in the rear seat pans are still full. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Tim Davis BN7 [mailto:tld6008 at mchsi.com] Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2017 6:39 PM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front leather seat installation I did mine much as you did. I do recall gluing Muslin material to certain areas and using a plastic dry cleaning bag to help get the covers onto the seat back (pulled free afterwards). What I didn't know and it looks like you may not have either is the trick to get the pleats in the leather covers to fill out. Some of the old seats I have taken apart had padding (looked like cotten batting) stuffed in places to fill out areas for a better contour. Tim Davis BN7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mdoust at abarth.ca Fri Jul 28 15:33:02 2017 From: mdoust at abarth.ca (Mark) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2017 17:33:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. Hello car world! My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 1953 Austin Healey. I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more Conclaves. So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, Mark at mark at abarth.ca Thank you, Heather -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Jul 28 19:07:49 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 09:07:49 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. References: <025a01d307e9$18b62140$4a2263c0$@ca> I recommend you contact Leo Ruof Columbus, Ohio lruof at columbus.rr.com 614-261-6252 Leo is a first rate rebuilder and may have the parts to fix your box. Or, he may have a spare. He knows 3 speeds very well. On Sat, Jul 29, 2017 at 5:33 AM, Mark wrote: > Hello car world! > > > > My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 > 1953 Austin Healey. > > > > I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I > did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. > > > > I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more > Conclaves. > > > > So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, > Mark at mark at abarth.ca > > > > Thank you, > > Heather > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jul 29 06:17:19 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 05:17:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. References: <025a01d307e9$18b62140$4a2263c0$@ca> Where are you located? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Jul 28, 2017 5:03 PM, "Mark" wrote: > Hello car world! > > > > My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 > 1953 Austin Healey. > > > > I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I > did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. > > > > I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more > Conclaves. > > > > So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, > Mark at mark at abarth.ca > > > > Thank you, > > Heather > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmcharris at hotmail.com Sat Jul 29 13:01:27 2017 From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris) Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 19:01:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box References: Better to replace with a 4 speed...it should fit nicely. George Mcharris ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 229 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. BN1 3 speed gear box. (Mark) 2. Re: BN1 3 speed gear box. (Alan Seigrist) 3. Re: BN1 3 speed gear box. (i erbs) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2017 17:33:02 -0400 From: "Mark" To: Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. Hello car world! My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 1953 Austin Healey. I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more Conclaves. So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, Mark at mark at abarth.ca Thank you, Heather -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 09:07:49 +0800 From: Alan Seigrist To: mdoust at abarth.ca Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. Message-ID: I recommend you contact Leo Ruof Columbus, Ohio lruof at columbus.rr.com 614-261-6252 Leo is a first rate rebuilder and may have the parts to fix your box. Or, he may have a spare. He knows 3 speeds very well. On Sat, Jul 29, 2017 at 5:33 AM, Mark wrote: > Hello car world! > > > > My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 > 1953 Austin Healey. > > > > I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I > did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. > > > > I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more > Conclaves. > > > > So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, > Mark at mark at abarth.ca > > > > Thank you, > > Heather > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 05:17:19 -0700 From: i erbs To: mdoust at abarth.ca Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. Message-ID: Where are you located? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Jul 28, 2017 5:03 PM, "Mark" wrote: > Hello car world! > > > > My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 > 1953 Austin Healey. > > > > I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I > did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. > > > > I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more > Conclaves. > > > > So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, > Mark at mark at abarth.ca > > > > Thank you, > > Heather > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 229 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Jul 30 04:38:28 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2017 20:38:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box References: Clearly some haven't driven a BN1 with a properly sorted original three-speed gearbox and overdrive. I believe that there has never by a more suited engine and gearbox. Extending the car through second gear and into top is an experience to be remembered. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of george mcharris Sent: Sunday, 30 July 2017 5:01 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box Better to replace with a 4 speed...it should fit nicely. George Mcharris _____ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 229 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. BN1 3 speed gear box. (Mark) 2. Re: BN1 3 speed gear box. (Alan Seigrist) 3. Re: BN1 3 speed gear box. (i erbs) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2017 17:33:02 -0400 From: "Mark" To: Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. Hello car world! My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 1953 Austin Healey. I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more Conclaves. So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, Mark at mark at abarth.ca Thank you, Heather -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 09:07:49 +0800 From: Alan Seigrist To: mdoust at abarth.ca Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. Message-ID: I recommend you contact Leo Ruof Columbus, Ohio lruof at columbus.rr.com 614-261-6252 Leo is a first rate rebuilder and may have the parts to fix your box. Or, he may have a spare. He knows 3 speeds very well. On Sat, Jul 29, 2017 at 5:33 AM, Mark wrote: > Hello car world! > > > > My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 > 1953 Austin Healey. > > > > I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I > did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. > > > > I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more > Conclaves. > > > > So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, > Mark at mark at abarth.ca > > > > Thank you, > > Heather > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 05:17:19 -0700 From: i erbs To: mdoust at abarth.ca Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. Message-ID: Where are you located? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Jul 28, 2017 5:03 PM, "Mark" wrote: > Hello car world! > > > > My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 > 1953 Austin Healey. > > > > I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I > did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. > > > > I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more > Conclaves. > > > > So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, > Mark at mark at abarth.ca > > > > Thank you, > > Heather > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 229 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Sun Jul 30 09:39:13 2017 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2017 15:39:13 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box I must admit, I quite like mine. Plus with the reverse shift pattern, it changes the whole attitude while driving. And having synchro into "first" gear is also nice. I plan on driving mine until it either quits or I do. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 On Jul 30, 2017, at 04:05 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Clearly some haven?t driven a BN1 with a properly sorted original three-speed gearbox and overdrive. ? I believe that there has never by a more suited engine and gearbox. Extending the car through second gear and into top is an experience to be remembered. ? Hoo Roo ? Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of george mcharris Sent: Sunday, 30 July 2017 5:01 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box ? Better to replace with a 4 speed...it should fit nicely. George Mcharris ? From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2017 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 229 ? Send Healeys mailing list submissions to ??????? healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??????? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??????? healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??????? healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: ?? 1. BN1 3 speed gear box. (Mark) ?? 2. Re: BN1 3 speed gear box. (Alan Seigrist) ?? 3. Re: BN1 3 speed gear box. (i erbs) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2017 17:33:02 -0400 From: "Mark" To: Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. Hello car world! ? My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 1953 Austin Healey. ? I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it.? Oh, I did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. ? I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more Conclaves.? ? So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, Mark at mark at abarth.ca?????? ? Thank you, Heather? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 09:07:49 +0800 From: Alan Seigrist To: mdoust at abarth.ca Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. Message-ID: ??????? I recommend you contact Leo Ruof Columbus, Ohio lruof at columbus.rr.com 614-261-6252 Leo is a first rate rebuilder and may have the parts to fix your box.? Or, he may have a spare.? He knows 3 speeds very well. On Sat, Jul 29, 2017 at 5:33 AM, Mark wrote: > Hello car world! > > > > My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 > 1953 Austin Healey. > > > > I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it.? Oh, I > did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. > > > > I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more > Conclaves. > > > > So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, > Mark at mark at abarth.ca > > > > Thank you, > > Heather > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 05:17:19 -0700 From: i erbs To: mdoust at abarth.ca Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. Message-ID: ??????? Where are you located? Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Jul 28, 2017 5:03 PM, "Mark" wrote: > Hello car world! > > > > My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 > 1953 Austin Healey. > > > > I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it.? Oh, I > did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. > > > > I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more > Conclaves. > > > > So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, > Mark at mark at abarth.ca > > > > Thank you, > > Heather > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 229 **************************************** _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Jul 30 15:43:08 2017 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2017 21:43:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What am I This was in a box of mostly BN1 bits, I don't recognize it, but it looks to be the right age and is not just a garden variety clamp, if you know what it is and can use it you can have it, part number 1G5271 with an "A" Triangle, or maybe the Star Trek shirt breast insignia at the end. Still have a box full of 2000-01 and 07-08 Healey Marques ready to ship out. Lastly the BN1 3 speed is well suited to the 100 motor and a great driving experience, Greg Lemon -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 15014503351601284621690.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4467016 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jkrich at gvtc.com Sun Jul 30 18:10:48 2017 From: jkrich at gvtc.com (James Richmond) Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2017 19:10:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Four speed gear box for a BN1 George, I don?t believe a 4 speed from a later model Healey will fit a BN 1 without relocating the mounting points and changing the gear box covers. The carpets will need to be modified. Jim jkrich at gvtc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Jul 30 18:31:12 2017 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 0:31:12 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What am I I think we have a concensus, it has patina, but is not rusty, anybody want it? I'll even spring (spring, ha ha) shipping in USA Greg From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jul 30 18:39:10 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 00:39:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Four speed gear box for a BN1 References: Isn't the rear trans mount bracket welded across the "V" at the rear of the opening in the floor different on the BN2 body?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 5:35 PM, James Richmond wrote: George, I don?t believe a 4 speed from a later model Healey will fit a BN 1 without relocating the mounting points and changing the gear box covers. ?The carpets will need to be modified. Jim?jkrich at gvtc.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From healeymk3 at hotmail.com Sun Jul 30 19:05:26 2017 From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 01:05:26 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Four speed gear box for a BN1 References: I just completed a 4 speed sideshift conversion to a BN1. You are correct, the transmission mounts has to be cut out and replaced with the later style. The mechanical clutch can be retained with a BN2 bellhousing, otherwise you will have to convert to a hydraulic clutch. I was able to modify the aluminium gearboxes cover to fit ( the shift lever hole is in a different position) and the BN1 carpet can be used with modification around the old shift position. Basically you cover the hole from the 3 speed. Laurie Wilford Sent from my Galaxy Tab? A -------- Original message -------- From: James Richmond Date: 2017-07-30 8:18 PM (GMT-05:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net, gmcharris at hotmail.com Subject: [Healeys] Four speed gear box for a BN1 George, I don?t believe a 4 speed from a later model Healey will fit a BN 1 without relocating the mounting points and changing the gear box covers. The carpets will need to be modified. Jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jul 30 21:20:45 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 05:20:45 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] What am I References: <9ce0cacd-8afc-48ee-bad3-4adbb0d8c17d@me.com> <20170730214308.1VM41.136943.root@cdptpa-web07> I give up. I took a BN2 down to nuts and bolts and don't recall anything like that. -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > On July 30, 2017 at 11:43 PM glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: > > This was in a box of mostly BN1 bits, I don't recognize it, but it looks to be the right age and is not just a garden variety clamp, if you know what it is and can use it you can have it, part number 1G5271 with an "A" Triangle, or maybe the Star Trek shirt breast insignia at the end. > > Still have a box full of 2000-01 and 07-08 Healey Marques ready to ship out. > > Lastly the BN1 3 speed is well suited to the 100 motor and a great driving experience, > > Greg Lemon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Jul 30 21:40:43 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 11:40:43 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box References: <00a901d3091f$fc763dc0$f562b940$@tpg.com.au> Agreed. The BN1 motor is more torque than horsepower, 3 speeds + OD is more fun than having yet another speed. I even have a 32% OD... whoo hoo! On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 6:38 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > Clearly some haven?t driven a BN1 with a properly sorted original > three-speed gearbox and overdrive. > > > > I believe that there has never by a more suited engine and gearbox. > Extending the car through second gear and into top is an experience to be > remembered. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *george > mcharris > *Sent:* Sunday, 30 July 2017 5:01 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box > > > > Better to replace with a 4 speed...it should fit nicely. > > George Mcharris > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > healeys-request at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Saturday, July 29, 2017 11:00 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 229 > > > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > > autox.team.net > > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. BN1 3 speed gear box. (Mark) > 2. Re: BN1 3 speed gear box. (Alan Seigrist) > 3. Re: BN1 3 speed gear box. (i erbs) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2017 17:33:02 -0400 > From: "Mark" > To: > Subject: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. > Message-ID: <025a01d307e9$18b62140$4a2263c0$@ca> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Hello car world! > > > > My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 > 1953 > Austin Healey. > > > > I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I > did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. > > > > I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more > Conclaves. > > > > So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, > Mark at mark at abarth.ca > > > > Thank you, > > Heather > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170728/d640df0a/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 09:07:49 +0800 > From: Alan Seigrist > To: mdoust at abarth.ca > Cc: Healey list > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. > Message-ID: > mQ=LcGe=+Cr+OQ at mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I recommend you contact > > Leo Ruof > Columbus, Ohio > lruof at columbus.rr.com > 614-261-6252 > > Leo is a first rate rebuilder and may have the parts to fix your box. Or, > he may have a spare. He knows 3 speeds very well. > > On Sat, Jul 29, 2017 at 5:33 AM, Mark wrote: > > > Hello car world! > > > > > > > > My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 > > 1953 Austin Healey. > > > > > > > > I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I > > did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. > > > > > > > > I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more > > Conclaves. > > > > > > > > So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, > > Mark at mark at abarth.ca > > > > > > > > Thank you, > > > > Heather > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > www.team.net > > www.team.net > > The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time > volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network > connection, name ... > > > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Team.Net Archives > > www.team.net > > Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest > updated. > > > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170729/0dfb7292/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 05:17:19 -0700 > From: i erbs > To: mdoust at abarth.ca > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 3 speed gear box. > Message-ID: > gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Where are you located? > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > On Jul 28, 2017 5:03 PM, "Mark" wrote: > > > Hello car world! > > > > > > > > My husband tells me I need a 3 speed gear box / transmission for my BN1 > > 1953 Austin Healey. > > > > > > > > I have smoked my 3 speed gear box from driving it like I stole it. Oh, I > > did steel it from my husband in 2010 when he purchased it for himself. > > > > > > > > I would like to continue to drive this beautiful car and attend some more > > Conclaves. > > > > > > > > So if by chance you have the gear box I need, please contact my husband, > > Mark at mark at abarth.ca > > > > > > > > Thank you, > > > > Heather > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170729/8963ae1b/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 229 > **************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Jul 30 23:33:03 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2017 23:33:03 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] What am I U bolt rear springs... On July 30, 2017, at 9:20 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I give up.? I took a BN2 down to nuts and bolts and don't recall anything like that. -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA On July 30, 2017 at 11:43 PM glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: This was in a box of mostly BN1 bits, I don't recognize it, but it looks to be the right age and is not just a garden variety clamp, if you know what it is and can use it you can have it, part number 1G5271 with an "A" Triangle, or maybe the Star Trek shirt breast insignia at the end. Still have a box full of 2000-01 and 07-08 Healey Marques ready to ship out. Lastly the BN1 3 speed is well suited to the 100 motor and a great driving experience, Greg Lemon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Mon Jul 31 00:17:26 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 08:17:26 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] What am I References: <9ce0cacd-8afc-48ee-bad3-4adbb0d8c17d@me.com> <20170730214308.1VM41.136943.root@cdptpa-web07> Its an U-bolt for a BN1 with the early rear axle. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] What am I Datum: 2017-07-31T01:17:44+0200 Von: "glemon at neb.rr.com" An: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" , "Steven Kingsbury" This was in a box of mostly BN1 bits, I don't recognize it, but it looks to be the right age and is not just a garden variety clamp, if you know what it is and can use it you can have it, part number 1G5271 with an "A" Triangle, or maybe the Star Trek shirt breast insignia at the end. Still have a box full of 2000-01 and 07-08 Healey Marques ready to ship out. Lastly the BN1 3 speed is well suited to the 100 motor and a great driving experience, Greg Lemon ? From healeymk3 at hotmail.com Mon Jul 31 05:48:13 2017 From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 11:48:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Four speed gear box for a BN1 References: , <606757180.2751106.1501461550199@mail.yahoo.com> While changing the BN1 rear mount from a 3 speed to a 4 speed uses the same cross member as later cars, it is in a slightly different position for the 4 cylinder than it is for the 6. It is back about 1/2 inch. I bolted the overdrive on to the drive shaft without the transmission to get the correct position before welding it into place. Laurie Wilford Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Fido network. From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2017 8:30 PM To: jkrich at gvtc.com; healeys at autox.team.net; gmcharris at hotmail.com Reply To: rrengineer.mike at att.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four speed gear box for a BN1 Isn't the rear trans mount bracket welded across the "V" at the rear of the opening in the floor different on the BN2 body? Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 5:35 PM, James Richmond wrote: George, I don?t believe a 4 speed from a later model Healey will fit a BN 1 without relocating the mounting points and changing the gear box covers. The carpets will need to be modified. Jim _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Mon Jul 31 06:49:31 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 12:49:31 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Four speed gear box for a BN1 References: , <606757180.2751106.1501461550199@mail.yahoo.com>, My BN1 had a BN2 box installed by a PO way back in the 60's. They did not do anything to change the rear mount and we discovered that it was held in place by a bent coat hanger! Going through a full restoration now at Fourintune and they have spliced in the X member of a later car so that the box can be mounted properly. I have photos of this if you want? regards Simon Troy, Il -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Jul 31 09:07:25 2017 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 11:07:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What am I Thanks for the photo Greg. I have no idea what this clamp is. I have been all over my car and I can not remember ever seeing anything like it. I'll do a bit more research about what it may be, maybe Patrick knows as he's a bit more knowledgeable than I. Steven In a message dated 7/30/2017 5:08:47 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, glemon at neb.rr.com writes: This was in a box of mostly BN1 bits, I don't recognize it, but it looks to be the right age and is not just a garden variety clamp, if you know what it is and can use it you can have it, part number 1G5271 with an "A" Triangle, or maybe the Star Trek shirt breast insignia at the end. Still have a box full of 2000-01 and 07-08 Healey Marques ready to ship out. Lastly the BN1 3 speed is well suited to the 100 motor and a great driving experience, Greg Lemon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbt71 at gmail.com Mon Jul 31 10:29:45 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 10:29:45 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Polarity Change All, I've decided to go to an alternator so I have to change the car to negative ground. It has a positive ground Pertronix distributor. Do I have to do anything more to the distributor than installing a negative ground module in place of the positive ground one? BTW, aided by the kind donation of some shroud material I was able to patch my shroud with sound metal. I put the new piece in with my MIG welder. After a bit of practice on the donated piece I worked out I could do a series of short, basically tack welds without any brunthrough. It looked like shit when I was done, but it ground down nicely without distortion. Some hammer and dolly work and the repair should be invisible. Thanks Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jul 31 11:28:35 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 19:28:35 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix Polarity Change References: "... Do I have to do anything more to the distributor than installing a negative ground module in place of the positive ground one?" Call Pertronix tech support. They've always been knowledgeable and helpful for me. But, the answer is likely no. Don't forget to swap the leads on your coil, assuming they are correct now. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > On July 31, 2017 at 6:29 PM Mike Tobin wrote: > > All, > I've decided to go to an alternator so I have to change the car to negative ground. It has a positive ground Pertronix distributor. Do I have to do anything more to the distributor than installing a negative ground module in place of the positive ground one? > > BTW, aided by the kind donation of some shroud material I was able to patch my shroud with sound metal. I put the new piece in with my MIG welder. After a bit of practice on the donated piece I worked out I could do a series of short, basically tack welds without any brunthrough. It looked like shit when I was done, but it ground down nicely without distortion. Some hammer and dolly work and the repair should be invisible. > > Thanks Again, > Mike Tobin > Townsend, Montana. > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jul 31 12:15:03 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 14:15:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Test Sorry to burden the list with a test but I have been having problems receiving posts of late. Apparently gmail likes to send them to spam no matter what I do and I am testing to see if my setting changes will allow this email to come through to me. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Jul 31 14:40:13 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 13:40:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Test References: Mine to if you find the answer please let me know David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Michael Oritt Sent: Monday, July 31, 2017 11:15 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Test Sorry to burden the list with a test but I have been having problems receiving posts of late. Apparently gmail likes to send them to spam no matter what I do and I am testing to see if my setting changes will allow this email to come through to me. Best--Michael Oritt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Mon Jul 31 15:49:26 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 21:49:26 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 3 speed box photo of the spliced in 4 speed crossmember [cid:bc3e523d-8790-41a0-b6f5-48fb18883354] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_9131.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 248270 bytes Desc: IMG_9131.jpeg URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jul 31 16:55:02 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 22:55:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 3 speed box photo of the spliced in 4 speed crossmember References: Looks like it's in the process of being spliced in. Not welded yet.Mike MacLean On Monday, July 31, 2017 3:17 PM, Simon Griffin wrote: _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_9131.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 248270 bytes Desc: not available URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Mon Jul 31 17:26:40 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 23:26:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 3 speed box photo of the spliced in 4 speed crossmember References: , <1960852848.3513374.1501541702947@mail.yahoo.com> Here it is a bit later in the process, most of the chassis repairs are complete at this point. [cid:9db4762c-6b47-4955-86ee-867a0f207273] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_9475.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 344295 bytes Desc: IMG_9475.jpg URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Mon Jul 31 17:28:04 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 23:28:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 3 speed box photo of the spliced in 4 speed crossmember References: , <1960852848.3513374.1501541702947@mail.yahoo.com> A bit later still after substructure paint. [cid:74d628c1-c2ff-4917-8807-8f30332b52c5] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_9517.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 374658 bytes Desc: IMG_9517.jpg URL: From SIMON_GRIF at msn.com Mon Jul 31 17:30:26 2017 From: SIMON_GRIF at msn.com (Simon Griffin) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 23:30:26 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 3 speed box photo of the spliced in 4 speed crossmember References: , <1960852848.3513374.1501541702947@mail.yahoo.com> Finally with the restored BN2 box and the overdrive installed. [cid:d651279c-9b96-42dd-b732-36b8bd96df0b] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_9747.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 386739 bytes Desc: IMG_9747.jpg URL: From bighealey3k at aim.com Mon Jul 31 18:54:24 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 20:54:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Test Me too. I don't see my posts to the list in my in box. So, I don't know if the list sees my posts or not. Larry '67 BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: David Nock BCS To: Michael Oritt ; Austin Healey Sent: Mon, Jul 31, 2017 5:17 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Test Mine to if you find the answer please let me know ? ? David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com ? From: Michael Oritt Sent: Monday, July 31, 2017 11:15 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Test ? Sorry to burden the list with a test but I have been having problems receiving posts of late.? Apparently gmail likes to send them to spam no matter what I do and I am testing to see if my setting changes will allow this email to come through to me. ? Best--Michael Oritt ------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bighealey3k at aim.com Mon Jul 31 19:01:35 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 21:01:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Test References: I receive posts but don't see my posts to the list. So I don't know if my posts are getting through to the list or just going to the people I'm responding to. This has been going on for a very long time. -----Original Message----- From: Michael Oritt To: Austin Healey Sent: Mon, Jul 31, 2017 4:06 pm Subject: [Healeys] Test Sorry to burden the list with a test but I have been having problems receiving posts of late.? Apparently gmail likes to send them to spam no matter what I do and I am testing to see if my setting changes will allow this email to come through to me. Best--Michael Oritt? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Jul 31 18:14:16 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 20:14:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Test References: <47B8018A53F7435889761B57EF4E61C0@DavidNockHP> OK, Guys. Try this. See in the message I received from David where it says it wasn't sent to spam because of a filter I created? You need to create a filter using " healeys at autox.team.net" as the search term. Go here and it will tell you how to do it: https://support.google.com/mail/answer/6579?hl=en&authuser=2 Best of luck and email me if it doesn't work. Rick Neville On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 4:40 PM, David Nock BCS wrote: > Mine to if you find the answer please let me know > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 <(209)%20948-8767> > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > *From:* Michael Oritt > *Sent:* Monday, July 31, 2017 11:15 AM > *To:* Austin Healey > *Subject:* [Healeys] Test > > Sorry to burden the list with a test but I have been having problems > receiving posts of late. Apparently gmail likes to send them to spam no > matter what I do and I am testing to see if my setting changes will allow > this email to come through to me. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jul 31 19:39:03 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 21:39:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Test References: <47B8018A53F7435889761B57EF4E61C0@DavidNockHP> <15d9b49655d-9f1-335b8@webprd-a93.mail.aol.com> All-- I got about ten messages, some through the list and some directly, that my email went through which I was not sure of as I have never been able to see my own posts. In any case it apparently took creating what I will call a positive filter directing that any email from healeys at autox be sent to my inbox. Whatever, it's nice to be back! Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 8:54 PM, Larry Wendland wrote: > Me too. I don't see my posts to the list in my in box. So, I don't know > if the list sees my posts or not. > > Larry > '67 BJ8 > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Nock BCS > To: Michael Oritt ; Austin Healey < > healeys at autox.team.net> > Sent: Mon, Jul 31, 2017 5:17 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Test > > > > > Mine to if you find the answer please let me know > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > > > From: Michael Oritt > Sent: Monday, July 31, 2017 11:15 AM > To: Austin Healey > Subject: [Healeys] Test > > > > > Sorry to burden the list with a test but I have been having problems > receiving posts of late. Apparently gmail likes to send them to spam no > matter what I do and I am testing to see if my setting changes will allow > this email to come through to me. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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