From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Apr 1 06:47:39 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2017 08:47:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] For your fireplace mantel References: <58DEEB2E.4030600@earthlink.net> <632640670.1740271.1491008770559@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Scott. I didn't see it mentioned in the books I had. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 03/31/2017 09:06 PM, J. Scott Morris wrote: > And here are a couple of other files. > --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives > > > On Friday, March 31, 2017 8:15 PM, Bob Haskell > wrote: > > > Anyone know the history of this? > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/COPPA-DELLE-MILLE-MIGLIA-TROPHY-TROFEO-FRANCO-MAZZOTTI-D-M-HEALEY-1951-/152456127845?hash=item237f17e565:g:69oAAOSwCU1YqPy3&vxp=mtr > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jstmorris at yahoo.com > > > From cpcooper at ymail.com Sat Apr 1 08:55:45 2017 From: cpcooper at ymail.com (Craig Cooper) Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2017 14:55:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Navigating This Site... I JUST DON'T GET IT References: <1186076016.1794977.1491058545556.ref@mail.yahoo.com> My second round as a subscriber but I'm clueless as to how to navigate this site, to search, or even follow a thread chronologically. ?Are there instructions somewhere? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sat Apr 1 12:56:36 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2017 20:56:36 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] Healey but Sprite This prestine Austin-Healey Sprite Mk1 sold at NEC Birmingham Restoration Show today, see pictures. Its said and stated to be one of the 4 Monte Carlo Show cars at first presentation and entrant of the Mille Miglia 1958. For that it sold for a bargain price of Brit. Pound 20 000. New owner spend some time to get loaded on his trailer. ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PICT9931.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2668804 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PICT9932.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2851461 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PICT9933.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1791439 bytes Desc: not available URL: From amalin at mac.com Sat Apr 1 13:28:30 2017 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2017 15:28:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Navigating This Site... I JUST DON'T GET IT References: <1186076016.1794977.1491058545556.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1186076016.1794977.1491058545556@mail.yahoo.com> This advice is for Macintosh and IOS users. It doesn?t apply to Windows and Android although they most likely have the equivalent feature. This is not a ?site?, you do not navigate it - you receive the emails sent/replied to "healeys at autox.team.net? if you choose. If you do not want to receive the individual emails you always have the option to search the archives. I like receiving all the individual emails as they are created but I want them grouped by same subject. This is how it?s done: For Macintosh: In the Mail ?View" menu there is the menu item ?Organize by Conversation?. Make sure it is checked. As long as the subject has not been changed for a message in the thread Mail will group them together. Similarly for iOS: In Settings for Mail turn on ?Organize by Tread? and ?Most Recent Message On Top? and ?Complete Threads? Al Malin Tricarb > On Apr 1, 2017, at 10:55 AM, Craig Cooper wrote: > > My second round as a subscriber but I'm clueless as to how to navigate this site, to search, or even follow a thread chronologically. Are there instructions somewhere? > _______________________________________________ > From llennep at verizon.net Sat Apr 1 15:48:05 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2017 16:48:05 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Trip to UK Hello all! Wife and I and grown son and grown daughter with husband are traveling to England, Scotland and Ireland in mid June. For 2 weeks. Probably will use Oxford as home base in a airbandb. What should be on our list of must see or do????? TIA Keith From kentmclean at comcast.net Sat Apr 1 15:51:48 2017 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2017 17:51:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Navigating This Site... I JUST DON'T GET IT References: Craig Cooper wrote: > My second round as a subscriber but I'm clueless as to how to navigate this site, to search, or even follow a thread chronologically. Are there instructions somewhere? It?s not a forum, it?s an email list. You send an email to the list, and an automated list manager resends it to everyone on the list. Some people get every email individually, others opt to receive it in digest form - one or two emails a day with a bunch of emails in the digest. You can reply to an email you receive, and it will be re-sent to everyone on the list. If you receive the mail in digest form, please trim the original message contained in your reply. There is nothing to navigate. Your email reader should be able to sort threads chronologically for you. There is an archive, which contains the email messages sent to the list, and which can be searched. You can find it in this link, which appears at the bottom of every email that is resent. http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Here?s a direct link: http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/ If you have another question, just ask. - Kent McLean ?56 100 BN2 From drscholz at visioncenterpc.com Sat Apr 1 19:50:34 2017 From: drscholz at visioncenterpc.com (Chris Scholz) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 01:50:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Trip to UK References: <18220173.507642.1491083285553.JavaMail.root@vznit170170.mailsrvcs.net> We are going to Ireland in June and were told to see Kilarney National Park. We also would be interested in the best sights to see. Sent from my iPhone Chris Scholz OD > On Apr 1, 2017, at 6:19 PM, "llennep at verizon.net" wrote: > > Hello all! > > Wife and I and grown son and grown daughter with husband are traveling to England, Scotland and Ireland in mid June. For 2 weeks. Probably will use Oxford as home base in a airbandb. What should be on our list of must see or do????? > > TIA > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drscholz at visioncenterpc.com > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Apr 1 22:49:51 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 04:49:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healey but Sprite References: <1491072996831.332081.f24fb7e5c9e774778199d3f0eb6b68097b92af82@spica.telekom.de> That's a nice patina on it. Mike MacLean On Saturday, April 1, 2017 3:16 PM, "josef-eckert at t-online.de" wrote: This prestine Austin-Healey Sprite Mk1 sold at NEC Birmingham Restoration Show today, see pictures. Its said and stated to be one of the 4 Monte Carlo Show cars at first presentation and entrant of the Mille Miglia 1958. For that it sold for a bargain price of Brit. Pound 20 000. New owner spend some time to get loaded on his trailer. ?_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Apr 2 00:30:11 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 08:30:11 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Trip to UK References: <18220173.507642.1491083285553.JavaMail.root@vznit170170.mailsrvcs.net> If in Ireland do the Wild Atlantic Way coastal road. Make sure that you hire a _/*small*/_ car as many of the roads can be very narrow. It is absolutely spectacular. As regular visitors to Ireland, we did it last year staying in small hotels, B&B and AirBnB places. It will take you well more than a week at your leisure. So many places to visit and look at. Good sea food on the way. http://www.wildatlanticway.com/explore-the-route/map Kees Oudesluijs Op 1-4-2017 om 23:48 schreef llennep at verizon.net: > Hello all! > > Wife and I and grown son and grown daughter with husband are traveling to England, Scotland and Ireland in mid June. For 2 weeks. Probably will use Oxford as home base in a airbandb. What should be on our list of must see or do????? > > TIA > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Apr 2 00:33:57 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 08:33:57 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Healey but Sprite References: <1491072996831.332081.f24fb7e5c9e774778199d3f0eb6b68097b92af82@spica.telekom.de> Probably lost most of it during the trip home. Kees Oudesluijs Op 1-4-2017 om 20:56 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de: > > This prestine Austin-Healey Sprite Mk1 sold at NEC Birmingham > Restoration Show today, see pictures. > > Its said and stated to be one of the 4 Monte Carlo Show cars at first > presentation and entrant of the Mille Miglia 1958. For that it sold > for a bargain price of Brit. Pound 20 000. New owner spend some time > to get loaded on his trailer. > > ? > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Apr 2 00:46:37 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 16:46:37 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey but Sprite References: <1491072996831.332081.f24fb7e5c9e774778199d3f0eb6b68097b92af82@spica.telekom.de> Greetings The last of the original Mille Miglias took place in 1957, however four AH Sprite Mk1s were prepared for the model?s launch on 20 May 1958, a date that coincided with the Monaco Grand Prix. Always with an eye for publicity DMH with BMC PR arranged for the launch at the GP when there would be quite a few motoring writers present. Needless to say it was a smart move. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Sunday, 2 April 2017 4:57 AM To: Healeys, Forum Subject: [Healeys] Healey but Sprite This prestine Austin-Healey Sprite Mk1 sold at NEC Birmingham Restoration Show today, see pictures. Its said and stated to be one of the 4 Monte Carlo Show cars at first presentation and entrant of the Mille Miglia 1958. For that it sold for a bargain price of Brit. Pound 20 000. New owner spend some time to get loaded on his trailer. ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Apr 2 03:47:47 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 11:47:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Trip to UK References: <18220173.507642.1491083285553.JavaMail.root@vznit170170.mailsrvcs.net> <79c7249e-5d95-07ca-1d90-fc0030f4f2a5@gmail.com> One up from a Smart, e.g. Suzuki Alto, Fiat 500 size. A modern VW Polo being a bit to wide, in my view, for these roads. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-4-2017 om 10:12 schreef Bob / JagXK120: > Keith, > Take care of what "small car" means for an European... > B > > > Le 02/04/2017 ? 08:30, Oudesluys a ?crit : >> If in Ireland do the Wild Atlantic Way coastal road. Make sure that >> you hire a _/*small*/_ car as many of the roads can be very narrow. >> It is absolutely spectacular. As regular visitors to Ireland, we did >> it last year staying in small hotels, B&B and AirBnB places. It will >> take you well more than a week at your leisure. So many places to >> visit and look at. Good sea food on the way. >> >> http://www.wildatlanticway.com/explore-the-route/map >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> >> >> >> Op 1-4-2017 om 23:48 schreef llennep at verizon.net: >>> Hello all! >>> >>> Wife and I and grown son and grown daughter with husband are traveling to England, Scotland and Ireland in mid June. For 2 weeks. Probably will use Oxford as home base in a airbandb. What should be on our list of must see or do????? >>> >>> TIA >>> Keith >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bcrist at club-internet.fr >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sun Apr 2 04:43:34 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 11:43:34 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Trip to UK References: <18220173.507642.1491083285553.JavaMail.root@vznit170170.mailsrvcs.net> <79c7249e-5d95-07ca-1d90-fc0030f4f2a5@gmail.com> <46592bb5-30c9-d2b6-5314-b18f17827ee2@chello.nl> All depends on your need to plunge down those narrow roads in the first place .. And your need to carry your luggage. Poisonally .I?d hire a car sufficiently large for your party and its luggage and keep to the bigger(?!) roads. Being from Ireland, but much further north, I?d say that it?s all doable that way. Don?t set fire to your hotel with a 110v hair dryer and a 240v converter. A common American trick, I?m afraid. And don?t forget that the steering wheel?s moved to the right .. And enjoy yourself. Guinness is very moreish stuff .doesn?t really mix with driving on the ?other? side of the road. If you?re going into Ireland from Scotland, you will land in Larne??? From Stranraer?? If so, The Giant?s Causeway is worth a visit. Take the coast road from Larne. Don?t go into the Visitor?s Centre at the Causeway. It?s a racket whereby they basically charge you ?6:00 each (Thereabouts) to walk through a touristy junk shop. Entrance to the actual Causeway is free. Walk around/over the Visitor?s Centre. The latter is such an offensively ugly building that the locals call it the Fuhrer Bunker. Have lunch/pint in the Causeway Hotel, right there near the Visitor?s Centre. When you drive up to the place, tell the parking attendants that you?re eating in the hotel. Fight your way past the parking attendant cretins and get free parking by the hotel. Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys Sent: 02 April 2017 10:48 To: jagxk120 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trip to UK One up from a Smart, e.g. Suzuki Alto, Fiat 500 size. A modern VW Polo being a bit to wide, in my view, for these roads. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-4-2017 om 10:12 schreef Bob / JagXK120: Keith, Take care of what "small car" means for an European... B Le 02/04/2017 ? 08:30, Oudesluys a ?crit : If in Ireland do the Wild Atlantic Way coastal road. Make sure that you hire a small car as many of the roads can be very narrow. It is absolutely spectacular. As regular visitors to Ireland, we did it last year staying in small hotels, B&B and AirBnB places. It will take you well more than a week at your leisure. So many places to visit and look at. Good sea food on the way. http://www.wildatlanticway.com/explore-the-route/map Kees Oudesluijs Op 1-4-2017 om 23:48 schreef llennep at verizon.net Hello all! Wife and I and grown son and grown daughter with husband are traveling to England, Scotland and Ireland in mid June. For 2 weeks. Probably will use Oxford as home base in a airbandb. What should be on our list of must see or do????? TIA Keith _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bcrist at club-internet.fr -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Apr 2 05:15:34 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 13:15:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Trip to UK References: <18220173.507642.1491083285553.JavaMail.root@vznit170170.mailsrvcs.net> <79c7249e-5d95-07ca-1d90-fc0030f4f2a5@gmail.com> <46592bb5-30c9-d2b6-5314-b18f17827ee2@chello.nl> <000001d2ab9e$013579f0$03a06dd0$@homecall.co.uk> Op 2-4-2017 om 12:43 schreef Simon Lachlan: > Don?t go into the Visitor?s Centre at the Causeway. It?s a racket > whereby they basically charge you ?6:00 each (Thereabouts) to walk > through a touristy junk shop. Entrance to the actual Causeway is free. > Walk around/over the Visitor?s Centre. The latter is such an > offensively ugly building that the locals call it the Fuhrer Bunker. > Have lunch/pint in the Causeway Hotel, right there near the Visitor?s > Centre. When you drive up to the place, tell the parking attendants > that you?re eating in the hotel. Fight your way past the parking > attendant cretins and get free parking by the hotel. Simon, I fully agree to that. However some money has to be earned to keep the place going and the paths maintained. Still I would keep to the original route of the WAW though with its narrow roads if you are not in a hurry. It is generally well indicated and leads you through unexpected very picturesque places. The bigger main roads are not my cup of tea. We have done the route from Kinsale to Donegal. The West-Cork part during the last 40 years as my wife is from Cork, and last year from Kilkenny to Donegal. Perhaps this year we may complete the trip to the end in Londonderry and carry on South along the East coast. Kees Oudesluijs From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sun Apr 2 09:53:51 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 16:53:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Trip to UK References: <18220173.507642.1491083285553.JavaMail.root@vznit170170.mailsrvcs.net> <79c7249e-5d95-07ca-1d90-fc0030f4f2a5@gmail.com> <46592bb5-30c9-d2b6-5314-b18f17827ee2@chello.nl> If you are based in Oxford then you must go into the Cotswolds as its next door by US standards. All of it is picturesque with archetypal 'English' villages, pubs and countryside. Cirencester and bath are worth visiting and if you are in the North Cotswolds then Stratford on Avon is very close. The Lake District in the North west of England is also very beautiful and more dramatic than the Cotswolds. Derek On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 10:47 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > One up from a Smart, e.g. Suzuki Alto, Fiat 500 size. A modern VW Polo > being a bit to wide, in my view, for these roads. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 2-4-2017 om 10:12 schreef Bob / JagXK120: > > Keith, > Take care of what "small car" means for an European... > B > > > Le 02/04/2017 ? 08:30, Oudesluys a ?crit : > > If in Ireland do the Wild Atlantic Way coastal road. Make sure that you > hire a *small* car as many of the roads can be very narrow. It is > absolutely spectacular. As regular visitors to Ireland, we did it last year > staying in small hotels, B&B and AirBnB places. It will take you well more > than a week at your leisure. So many places to visit and look at. Good sea > food on the way. > > http://www.wildatlanticway.com/explore-the-route/map > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > > Op 1-4-2017 om 23:48 schreef llennep at verizon.net: > > Hello all! > > Wife and I and grown son and grown daughter with husband are traveling to England, Scotland and Ireland in mid June. For 2 weeks. Probably will use Oxford as home base in a airbandb. What should be on our list of must see or do????? > > TIA > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bcrist at club-internet.fr > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Apr 2 11:50:35 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 10:50:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Trip to UK References: <18220173.507642.1491083285553.JavaMail.root@vznit170170.mailsrvcs.net> Go to the Morgan Factory your. Rent a Morgan for the day and enjoy the countryside Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Apr 1, 2017 4:48 PM, wrote: > Hello all! > > Wife and I and grown son and grown daughter with husband are traveling to > England, Scotland and Ireland in mid June. For 2 weeks. Probably will use > Oxford as home base in a airbandb. What should be on our list of must see > or do????? > > TIA > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 2 18:06:33 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2017 20:06:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Nostalgia Have been having a Facebook exchange on a group "You know you're from Alameda if" and I mentioned remembering the Pampered Pup hot dog place in Alameda. Looking at their web site, I see photos of a bunch of Healeys parked in front. Anyone know what the occasion was. Alameda is my home town. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sun Apr 2 18:53:04 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 17:53:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant? If so, how is it working for you? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Sun Apr 2 18:55:43 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 17:55:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hi oil pressure Just started my BJ8 after a long Winter project on OD and other things. Only engine work done was to change oil pan gasket. New oil and new filter. VR1 20-50 oil. When starting from cold oil pressure regulates to around 60 psi. You can see it regulating. As soon as it starts to warm up (about 10 mins running) pressure gets very hi and follows RPM to about 100 psi at 2000 RPM. Pressure gauge is almost like a tacho ! Today pulled the relief valve (not a trivial task as have oil cooler pipes obstructing) and inspected. Looks OK apart from a few scuffs on the valve; there is a small washer behind the spring by PO. Spring free length is 2.3 ins plus 0.1 for washer Suspecting the filter, changed it too. Oil gauge is but 12 months old. Prior to this oil pressure behaved normally; and this is a recently rebuilt engine with about 5k mi At my wits end and need some ideas please. rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tfsbj7 at gmail.com Sun Apr 2 19:28:34 2017 From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2017 21:28:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bogus Help Post References: <20170329.170033.1608.0@webmail03.dca.untd.com> Amazing how he lost his cell phone, but somehow he can get to his email. . From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dwflagg at juno.com Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 5:01 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bogus Help Post I received a post, allegedly from Marion Brantley saying he and his family were mugged in France and he needed financial assistance. ____________________________________________________________ Police Urge Americans to Carry This With Them at All Times The Observer http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/58dc20bfddbed20bf18b6st02duc SponsoredBy Content.Ad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyron at yahoo.com Sun Apr 2 19:46:28 2017 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 01:46:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Nostalgia References: <008301d2ac0e$276b0390$76410ab0$@verizon.net> A little searching of the facebook page revealed this. Pampered Pup | | | | | | | | | | | Pampered Pup Pampered Pup, Alameda, CA. 4,014 likes ? 10 talking about this ? 378 were here. Hot Dog Joint | | | | From: John Sims To: Healey List Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2017 9:04 PM Subject: [Healeys] Nostalgia Have been having a Facebook exchange on a group ?You know you?re from Alameda if? and I mentioned remembering the Pampered Pup hot dog place in Alameda. Looking at their web site, I see photos of a bunch of Healeys parked in front. Anyone know what the occasion was. Alameda is my home town. ?John SimsAberdeen, NJ ?www.healey6.com ?_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Apr 2 21:10:32 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 03:10:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant References: <017a01d2ac14$a7988640$f6c992c0$@roadrunner.com> I used it in my Bugeye when I fitted a Judson Supercharger to the original 948.? I did not know that you had to have the original low compression ratio for the supercharger to work correctly.? I had higher compression from the rebuild, so it overheated all the time.? I went to Evans coolant to try to cure this as you can use this stuff above the boiling point.? It does not allow the coolant to "steam" away from the cylinder walls.? It works.? You really don't have to worry about high temps.? Only one draw back in my experience though.? There was a distinct smell of pancake syrup from the coolant overflow.? Believe it or not.? Even after taking off the supercharger and going to regular 50/50 coolant mix the smell continued for another year or so.? It's not a bad smell.? Just weird coming from a car.? Might be nice if you only went to breakfast in it. On Sunday, April 2, 2017 7:41 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant?? If so, how is it working for you? ?Bruce SteeleBrea, CA1960 BN7 ?_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Apr 2 21:24:28 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 03:24:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Hi oil pressure References: Does not matter the age of the gauge. (rhyme?)? You need to put a calibrated gauge inline with the oil pressure gauge.? Only way to tell the true oil pressure.Mike MacLean ? On Sunday, April 2, 2017 8:15 PM, Roger Grace wrote: Just started my BJ8 after a long Winter project on OD and other things.Only engine work done was to change oil pan gasket.New oil and new filter. VR1 20-50 oil.When starting from cold oil pressure regulates to around 60 psi. You can see it regulating.As soon as it starts to warm up (about 10 mins running) pressure gets very hi and follows RPM to about 100 psi at 2000 RPM. Pressure gauge is almost like a tacho !Today pulled the relief valve (not a trivial task as have oil cooler pipes obstructing) and inspected.Looks OK apart from a few scuffs on the valve; there is a small washer behind the spring by PO.Spring free length is 2.3 ins plus 0.1 for washerSuspecting the filter, changed it too.Oil gauge is but 12 months old.Prior to this oil pressure behaved normally; and this is a recently rebuilt engine with about 5k miAt my wits end and need some ideas please.rg???_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From go2ghill at aol.com Sun Apr 2 22:16:24 2017 From: go2ghill at aol.com (Greg Hill) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 00:16:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trip to U.K. The castle at Warwick as seen on the original Healey badge is worth a visit. Torture chamber and all. Greg Sent from AOL Mobile Mail -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Apr 3 02:05:13 2017 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 09:05:13 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant References: <017a01d2ac14$a7988640$f6c992c0$@roadrunner.com> Expensive and pointless stuff. All it does is mask an overheating engine. Derek On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 1:53 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant? If so, how is it working for you? > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Apr 3 04:49:47 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2017 06:49:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Nostalgia References: <008301d2ac0e$276b0390$76410ab0$@verizon.net> <249675116.9448045.1491183988020@mail.yahoo.com> Asked the wrong question. I saw the sign. Question should have been do those cars belong to anyone on the list? John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Ron Mitchell [mailto:healeyron at yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2017 9:46 PM To: John Sims; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nostalgia A little searching of the facebook page revealed this. Pampered Pup Text Box: Pampered Pup Pampered Pup, Alameda, CA. 4,014 likes ? 10 talking about this ? 378 were here. Hot Dog Joint _____ From: John Sims To: Healey List Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2017 9:04 PM Subject: [Healeys] Nostalgia Have been having a Facebook exchange on a group ?You know you?re from Alameda if? and I mentioned remembering the Pampered Pup hot dog place in Alameda. Looking at their web site, I see photos of a bunch of Healeys parked in front. Anyone know what the occasion was. Alameda is my home town. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 16214 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 810 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mgcharlie at comcast.net Mon Apr 3 07:25:15 2017 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 09:25:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant References: <017a01d2ac14$a7988640$f6c992c0$@roadrunner.com> <1550016676.585219.1491189032588@mail.yahoo.com> You also would need to have some on hand at all times to top up the system. Regular coolant you can get some at the local auto parts or discount store in whatever brand that you prefer, but this stuff isn't as available. And regular coolant can be filled with water in a pinch or mixed in a lower concentration to make it go further until you get more. But this stuff is to have no water in it. So it fixes problems that you should not have at a higher cost with more trouble to make it happen. It's way more trouble than it is worth. > On April 2, 2017 at 11:10 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > > I used it in my Bugeye when I fitted a Judson Supercharger to the original 948. I did not know that you had to have the original low compression ratio for the supercharger to work correctly. I had higher compression from the rebuild, so it overheated all the time. I went to Evans coolant to try to cure this as you can use this stuff above the boiling point. It does not allow the coolant to "steam" away from the cylinder walls. It works. You really don't have to worry about high temps. Only one draw back in my experience though. There was a distinct smell of pancake syrup from the coolant overflow. Believe it or not. Even after taking off the supercharger and going to regular 50/50 coolant mix the smell continued for another year or so. It's not a bad smell. Just weird coming from a car. Might be nice if you only went to breakfast in it. > > > > On Sunday, April 2, 2017 7:41 PM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > > Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant? If so, how is it working for you? > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Apr 3 08:56:30 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 08:56:30 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant References: <017a01d2ac14$a7988640$f6c992c0$@roadrunner.com> <1550016676.585219.1491189032588@mail.yahoo.com> <1221727145.254118.1491225915562@connect.xfinity.com> ..and how the heck is it disposed of? Hazardous waste dept? On 4/3/2017 7:25 AM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > > You also would need to have some on hand at all times to top up the > system. Regular coolant you can get some at the local auto parts or > discount store in whatever brand that you prefer, but this stuff isn't > as available. And regular coolant can be filled with water in a pinch > or mixed in a lower concentration to make it go further until you get > more. But this stuff is to have no water in it. > > So it fixes problems that you should not have at a higher cost with > more trouble to make it happen. > > It's way more trouble than it is worth. > >> On April 2, 2017 at 11:10 PM Michael MacLean >> wrote: >> >> I used it in my Bugeye when I fitted a Judson Supercharger to the >> original 948. I did not know that you had to have the original low >> compression ratio for the supercharger to work correctly. I had >> higher compression from the rebuild, so it overheated all the time. >> I went to Evans coolant to try to cure this as you can use this stuff >> above the boiling point. It does not allow the coolant to "steam" >> away from the cylinder walls. It works. You really don't have to >> worry about high temps. Only one draw back in my experience though. >> There was a distinct smell of pancake syrup from the coolant >> overflow. Believe it or not. Even after taking off the supercharger >> and going to regular 50/50 coolant mix the smell continued for >> another year or so. It's not a bad smell. Just weird coming from a >> car. Might be nice if you only went to breakfast in it. >> >> >> >> On Sunday, April 2, 2017 7:41 PM, Bruce Steele >> wrote: >> >> >> Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant? If so, how is it working for you? >> Bruce Steele >> Brea, CA >> 1960 BN7 >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Mon Apr 3 11:38:37 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 10:38:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Evans Waterless Coolant From: Roger Grace Sent: Monday, April 3, 2017 10:38 AM To: Derek Job Subject: Re: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant Derek ? you are correct and it will actually make a normal (un modified) engine run hotter ? it is almost 100% glycol with reduced heat transfer capability; you would be unaware of this increase in engine temp temp as it would not be reflected in the coolant temp gauge. rg From: Derek Job Sent: Monday, April 3, 2017 1:05 AM To: Bruce Steele Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant Expensive and pointless stuff. All it does is mask an overheating engine. Derek On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 1:53 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant? If so, how is it working for you? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cpcooper at ymail.com Mon Apr 3 11:49:53 2017 From: cpcooper at ymail.com (Craig Cooper) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 17:49:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Frame Brackets Above or Below Bottom Lip on Front Shroud References: <1941494834.3940512.1491241793339.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I'm doing metalwork on a BN7 and piecing back together the front shroud. ?Do the brackets that extend from the front of the frame attach above or below the bottom lip on the shroud? ?Witness marks lead me to believe above, or at least that's where they were at some point. ? Thanks, and thanks for the help figuring out how to navigate archives. Craig -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cpcooper at ymail.com Mon Apr 3 12:54:43 2017 From: cpcooper at ymail.com (Craig Cooper) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 18:54:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] High Oil Pressure References: <22925578.3126209.1491245683779.ref@mail.yahoo.com> To the person with abnormally high oil pressure in his BJ8 (couldn't figure out how to reply to thread) ?Not sure if 6 cylinder motors are the same, but I had these symptoms with my 100-4 when I installed a pan gasket that didn't have an opening for the return port of the pressure relief valve. ?Installed a correct gasket and all was back to normal. ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From peter at easterton.com Mon Apr 3 14:00:12 2017 From: peter at easterton.com (Peter Hunt) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 21:00:12 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] UK Trip. Hi Keith, If you are into older vehicles, a visit to The British Motor Museum www.britishmotormuseum.co.uk is a must. It has the World's largest collection of British Cars and is only probably an hour's drive (or less) to the north of Oxford up the M40 motorway. It was formerly The Heritage Motor Centre or BMIH Trust where you could obtain a certificate indicating the authenticity of your British build sports car. It is right next to the Jaguar Land Rover test track and new development centre and JLR now sponsor the BMM. If you do go, allow several hours to go around the Museum; there is one floor of a building solely dedicated to Jaguars. Philip Young's Himalayan Rally Healey is there together with the three Minis that did rather well in the Monte Carlo Rally, plus, I believe, one of the oldest cars ever built. There is a restaurant to give you a break between viewing an extremely interesting collection of vehicles. Regards, Peter Hunt UK -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Mon Apr 3 15:52:03 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2017 09:52:03 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Evans Waterless Coolant References: <7D4CE7558DC841D996505A1E6939A4C0@WINDOWST93OFP9> Some info here http://www.oilem.com/potential-issues-with-waterless-engine-coolants/ "To summarize: Engines can run 45-60?C hotter (at the cylinder heads) with Waterless products. Stabilized coolant temps are increased by 15-25?C. Specific heat capacity of Waterless products ranges from 0.64 to 0.68, or about half that of water. Engine octane requirement is increased by 5-7 numbers reducing engine horsepower by 4-5%. Viscosity is 3-4 times higher than what OEM water pumps are rated to accommodate. Coolant flow rate through radiator tubes is reduced by 20-25% due to the higher viscosity. Race circuits are starting to prohibit waterless products because they are flammable and cause a slippery surface hazard when leaked." On 4/4/17, Roger Grace wrote: > > > From: Roger Grace > Sent: Monday, April 3, 2017 10:38 AM > To: Derek Job > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant > > Derek ? you are correct and it will actually make a normal (un modified) > engine run hotter ? it is almost 100% glycol with reduced heat transfer > capability; you would be unaware of this increase in engine temp temp as it > would not be reflected in the coolant temp gauge. > rg > > > From: Derek Job > Sent: Monday, April 3, 2017 1:05 AM > To: Bruce Steele > Cc: Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant > > Expensive and pointless stuff. All it does is mask an overheating engine. > > Derek > > On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 1:53 AM, Bruce Steele > wrote: > > Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant? If so, how is it working for you? > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com > > > > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 3 17:18:49 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 16:18:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant References: <017a01d2ac14$a7988640$f6c992c0$@roadrunner.com> <1550016676.585219.1491189032588@mail.yahoo.com> <1221727145.254118.1491225915562@connect.xfinity.com> Would only try with new engine as you can't get all the water out of a running engine. Upgrade your fan and radiator if you are running hot Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Apr 3, 2017 7:36 AM, "Charlie Baldwin" wrote: > You also would need to have some on hand at all times to top up the > system. Regular coolant you can get some at the local auto parts or > discount store in whatever brand that you prefer, but this stuff isn't as > available. And regular coolant can be filled with water in a pinch or > mixed in a lower concentration to make it go further until you get more. > But this stuff is to have no water in it. > > So it fixes problems that you should not have at a higher cost with more > trouble to make it happen. > > It's way more trouble than it is worth. > > On April 2, 2017 at 11:10 PM Michael MacLean > wrote: > > I used it in my Bugeye when I fitted a Judson Supercharger to the original > 948. I did not know that you had to have the original low compression > ratio for the supercharger to work correctly. I had higher compression > from the rebuild, so it overheated all the time. I went to Evans coolant > to try to cure this as you can use this stuff above the boiling point. It > does not allow the coolant to "steam" away from the cylinder walls. It > works. You really don't have to worry about high temps. Only one draw > back in my experience though. There was a distinct smell of pancake syrup > from the coolant overflow. Believe it or not. Even after taking off the > supercharger and going to regular 50/50 coolant mix the smell continued for > another year or so. It's not a bad smell. Just weird coming from a car. > Might be nice if you only went to breakfast in it. > > > > On Sunday, April 2, 2017 7:41 PM, Bruce Steele > wrote: > > > Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant? If so, how is it working for you? > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Apr 3 17:32:49 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2017 19:32:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] High Oil Pressure References: <22925578.3126209.1491245683779.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <22925578.3126209.1491245683779@mail.yahoo.com> Test test Disregard. Just giving a list lesson. To Craig John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Cooper Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 2:55 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] High Oil Pressure To the person with abnormally high oil pressure in his BJ8 (couldn't figure out how to reply to thread) Not sure if 6 cylinder motors are the same, but I had these symptoms with my 100-4 when I installed a pan gasket that didn't have an opening for the return port of the pressure relief valve. Installed a correct gasket and all was back to normal. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Apr 3 17:40:02 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 19:40:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Evans Waterless Coolant References: <7D4CE7558DC841D996505A1E6939A4C0@WINDOWST93OFP9> Like most of us, I've looked into Evans and have left confused. There really is almost no testing done of the product and the one I have found, http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm, is by a competitor. But after doing as much research as my non-scientific mind could handle without overheating I've decided against using it. What I've concluded from that research is that Evans will make your car run hotter. However, because it has a higher boiling point than other coolants, your car will not boil over. Nevertheless, it will not prevent your engine from reaching a temperature where engine damage can occur. So if your engine cooling problem is allowing your car to reach above 230-240 F, where engine damage will occur, the fact that Evans is keeping the radiator from boiling over isn't going to help you any. My own feeling is addressing the cooling problem with an effective shroud, coolant recovery system and possibly a puller electric fan is a better plan than the Evans. If my conclusions are incorrect. I'm ready to listen. Rick Neville On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 1:38 PM, Roger Grace wrote: > > > *From:* Roger Grace > *Sent:* Monday, April 3, 2017 10:38 AM > *To:* Derek Job > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant > > Derek ? you are correct and it will actually make a normal (un modified) > engine run hotter ? it is almost 100% glycol with reduced heat transfer > capability; you would be unaware of this increase in engine temp temp as it > would not be reflected in the coolant temp gauge. > rg > > > *From:* Derek Job > *Sent:* Monday, April 3, 2017 1:05 AM > *To:* Bruce Steele > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant > > Expensive and pointless stuff. All it does is mask an overheating engine. > > Derek > > On Mon, Apr 3, 2017 at 1:53 AM, Bruce Steele > wrote: > >> Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant? If so, how is it working for you? >> >> >> >> Bruce Steele >> >> Brea, CA >> >> 1960 BN7 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > Virus-free. > www.avg.com > > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Mon Apr 3 17:48:05 2017 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2017 09:48:05 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Frame Brackets Above or Below Bottom Lip on Front Shroud References: <1941494834.3940512.1491241793339.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1941494834.3940512.1491241793339@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Craig My brackets are above the lip on the shroud (whether right or wrong ??? but looks neater) John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Cooper Sent: Tuesday, 4 April 2017 3:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Frame Brackets Above or Below Bottom Lip on Front Shroud I'm doing metalwork on a BN7 and piecing back together the front shroud. Do the brackets that extend from the front of the frame attach above or below the bottom lip on the shroud? Witness marks lead me to believe above, or at least that's where they were at some point. Thanks, and thanks for the help figuring out how to navigate archives. Craig -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deejay2650 at gmail.com Mon Apr 3 18:05:07 2017 From: deejay2650 at gmail.com (Deejay2650 .) Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2017 10:05:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant Hi Bruce, I have been using a similar product here 'down under' in my '67 BJ8 and after a partial engine rebuild, found that my running temperatures were consistently reaching 212 degrees F. A good friend, who is a motor mechanic, removed all the suspect coolant into a large plastic container. He had cause to move the container a couple of hours later and found that the coolant was still hot to the touch. On further investigation, we found that the product should have been used as a complete total system (ie) totally waterless and that at some time prior to my ownership of the Healey, it had been used in a 60/40 ratio with water, which is a definite no-no. I had been topping it up with the waterless coolant thus compounding the problem. The problem is that the product is *'endothermic' *which means it contains heat rather than dissipating it! Our fix was to completely flush the system continually until no trace of the suspect coolant was found, fill with fresh distilled water containing the correct ratio of 'Penrite Classic Coolant'. What a difference that made! No more over-heating problems and the Healey now runs at a comfortable 170 degrees F. all day! Here is a pic of the temp gauge after a switch-off heat-soak prior to removing the suspect waterless coolant....Yikes! I will never use a product like that again it just masks an over-heating problem, in my opinion. Cheers Darryl Ross Wagga Wagga, New South Wales Down Under '67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1048.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1914247 bytes Desc: not available URL: From llennep at verizon.net Mon Apr 3 18:20:26 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2017 19:20:26 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] BN7 Frame Brackets Above or Below Bottom Lip on Front Shroud Those brackets attach above the lip of the shroud. On 04/03/17, Craig Cooper wrote: I'm doing metalwork on a BN7 and piecing back together the front shroud. Do the brackets that extend from the front of the frame attach above or below the bottom lip on the shroud? Witness marks lead me to believe above, or at least that's where they were at some point. Thanks, and thanks for the help figuring out how to navigate archives. Craig _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From llennep at verizon.net Mon Apr 3 19:03:24 2017 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2017 20:03:24 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] While in UK Thanks to all for the input on what my family should see/do when in UK. Got some really good feedback on that. One related Q for those of you in UK. Will we need an international drivers license or will the valid US drivers license be satisfactory to drive in England, Scotland and Ireland (possibly Wales)? Keith From kags at shaw.ca Mon Apr 3 19:27:34 2017 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 18:27:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant References: <017a01d2ac14$a7988640$f6c992c0$@roadrunner.com> Bruce: My experience with Evans coolant: We decided to install it after the engine was completely rebuilt in conjunction with a full restoration. (BJ8). We felt that it was an opportune time to do it was with a completely dry cooling system.. So naturally what happened within the first 200 miles ? a failed lower rad hose ? brand new, and a kevlar one at that. Not the coolant?s fault, but it illustrated an important objection to the stuff ? the cost of replacing the amount that was lost, approx. half, which I did. Ran it until a couple of months ago when we had to get into the engine again to make some ?corrections?, so about 4 years total. I decided to go back to regular antifreeze / water coolant. (I used the less toxic polypropylene stuff). The Evans has to be thoroughly cleaned out of the system with a good proper flush when doing this. The engine ran fine with the Evans in it ? no overheating problems, no bad smells, no difficulties. The big advantage is that it simply won?t boil, even if it gets very hot. In my opinion, he best thing that can be done for a big Healey cooling system is to use a more efficient radiator core ? either re-core an original radiator, or get a new aluminum radiator ? I?m told that the Wizard works very well by people who know Healeys. My advice ? stay with regular coolant, the Evans simply isn?t worth it. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2017 5:53 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant? If so, how is it working for you? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Mon Apr 3 22:29:25 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2017 21:29:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant References: <017a01d2ac14$a7988640$f6c992c0$@roadrunner.com> Well presented; thank you for sharing your experience. Your opinion aligns with all the comments I?ve received so far. BTW, I do have a freshly cleaned 4-row, double core radiator that I put in back in 2000. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags at shaw.ca] Sent: Monday, April 03, 2017 6:28 PM To: Bruce Steele ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant Bruce: My experience with Evans coolant: We decided to install it after the engine was completely rebuilt in conjunction with a full restoration. (BJ8). We felt that it was an opportune time to do it was with a completely dry cooling system.. So naturally what happened within the first 200 miles ? a failed lower rad hose ? brand new, and a kevlar one at that. Not the coolant?s fault, but it illustrated an important objection to the stuff ? the cost of replacing the amount that was lost, approx. half, which I did. Ran it until a couple of months ago when we had to get into the engine again to make some ?corrections?, so about 4 years total. I decided to go back to regular antifreeze / water coolant. (I used the less toxic polypropylene stuff). The Evans has to be thoroughly cleaned out of the system with a good proper flush when doing this. The engine ran fine with the Evans in it ? no overheating problems, no bad smells, no difficulties. The big advantage is that it simply won?t boil, even if it gets very hot. In my opinion, he best thing that can be done for a big Healey cooling system is to use a more efficient radiator core ? either re-core an original radiator, or get a new aluminum radiator ? I?m told that the Wizard works very well by people who know Healeys. My advice ? stay with regular coolant, the Evans simply isn?t worth it. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2017 5:53 PM Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant? If so, how is it working for you? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 _____ _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Apr 4 05:29:34 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2017 13:29:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant References: <017a01d2ac14$a7988640$f6c992c0$@roadrunner.com> Forget Evans, expensive and no real advantages except that it won't boil when the engine overheats although this allows you to enter the danger zone. Cooling efficiency is far less than cheap premix coolant which can be topped up with water in an emergency. And when the coolant boils, you know instantly the engine overheats!! Be careful though with the modern non (less) toxic red coolant in older engines. It may cause havoc with seals and gaskets and should only be used in modern cars. Use the (slightly) more toxic blue or green variant which is safe for older classic engines. You cannot cure cooling problem by using Evans. You will have to find the cause and rectify it. Kees Oudesluijs Op 4-4-2017 om 3:27 schreef Earl Kagna: > Bruce: > My experience with Evans coolant: We decided to install it after the > engine was completely rebuilt in conjunction with a full restoration. > (BJ8). We felt that it was an opportune time to do it was with a > completely dry cooling system.. So naturally what happened within the > first 200 miles ? a failed lower rad hose ? brand new, and a kevlar > one at that. Not the coolant?s fault, but it illustrated an important > objection to the stuff ? the cost of replacing the amount that was > lost, approx. half, which I did. > Ran it until a couple of months ago when we had to get into the engine > again to make some ?corrections?, so about 4 years total. I decided > to go back to regular antifreeze / water coolant. (I used the less > toxic polypropylene stuff). The Evans has to be thoroughly cleaned > out of the system with a good proper flush when doing this. > The engine ran fine with the Evans in it ? no overheating problems, no > bad smells, no difficulties. The big advantage is that it simply > won?t boil, even if it gets very hot. In my opinion, he best thing > that can be done for a big Healey cooling system is to use a more > efficient radiator core ? either re-core an original radiator, or get > a new aluminum radiator ? I?m told that the Wizard works very well by > people who know Healeys. > My advice ? stay with regular coolant, the Evans simply isn?t worth it. > Earl Kagna > Victoria, B.C. > BJ8, BT7 tri-carb > *Sent:* Sunday, April 02, 2017 5:53 PM > *Subject:* [Healeys] Evans Waterless Coolant > > Anyone using Evans Waterless Coolant? If so, how is it working for you? > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From reinhart.rosner at aon.at Tue Apr 4 05:38:25 2017 From: reinhart.rosner at aon.at (Reinhart Rosner) Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2017 13:38:25 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] High Oil Pressure References: <22925578.3126209.1491245683779.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <22925578.3126209.1491245683779@mail.yahoo.com> The same may happen if some sealant blocks the return port. Kind regards Reinhart Reinhart Rosner 55 AH 100 BN1 Vienna - Austria Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Craig Cooper Gesendet: Montag, 03. April 2017 20:55 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] High Oil Pressure To the person with abnormally high oil pressure in his BJ8 (couldn't figure out how to reply to thread) Not sure if 6 cylinder motors are the same, but I had these symptoms with my 100-4 when I installed a pan gasket that didn't have an opening for the return port of the pressure relief valve. Installed a correct gasket and all was back to normal. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick at ewilkins.com Tue Apr 4 09:19:43 2017 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2017 08:19:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] While in UK References: <29981023.563244.1491267804930.JavaMail.root@vznit170128.mailsrvcs.net> Your US license will be enough to use in the UK. I?ve driven all over the UK from Brighton to Edinburgh, Devon to Yorkshire. Plenty to see. I didn?t see a lot come through the list. What kinds of things would you like to see? Warwick Castle is nice, although very ?Disney? in its presentation. Windsor Castle is west of London and is a living castle where the Queen still resides part time. Near Oxford is Blenheim Palace. For classic English charm, you need to drive through parts of the Cotswolds. Best area is between Bath (worth a visit) and north toward Warwickshire (Stratford upon Avon, Warwick Castle), etc. The motor Museum at Gaydon was great when I went as there was at least one Works Healey and the whole set of Minis that took Monte Carlo, etc. I can tell you more if you have questions about the countryside or other sites. Rick Wilkins > On Apr 3, 2017, at 6:03 PM, llennep at verizon.net wrote: > > Thanks to all for the input on what my family should see/do when in UK. Got some really good feedback on that. One related Q for those of you in UK. Will we need an international drivers license or will the valid US drivers license be satisfactory to drive in England, Scotland and Ireland (possibly Wales)? > > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > > From tomfelts at windstream.net Tue Apr 4 12:53:12 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2017 14:53:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] While in UK By all means, see the Military Tattoo at Edinburgh Castle. tom ---- Rick Wilkins wrote: ============= Your US license will be enough to use in the UK. I?ve driven all over the UK from Brighton to Edinburgh, Devon to Yorkshire. Plenty to see. I didn?t see a lot come through the list. What kinds of things would you like to see? Warwick Castle is nice, although very ?Disney? in its presentation. Windsor Castle is west of London and is a living castle where the Queen still resides part time. Near Oxford is Blenheim Palace. For classic English charm, you need to drive through parts of the Cotswolds. Best area is between Bath (worth a visit) and north toward Warwickshire (Stratford upon Avon, Warwick Castle), etc. The motor Museum at Gaydon was great when I went as there was at least one Works Healey and the whole set of Minis that took Monte Carlo, etc. I can tell you more if you have questions about the countryside or other sites. Rick Wilkins > On Apr 3, 2017, at 6:03 PM, llennep at verizon.net wrote: > > Thanks to all for the input on what my family should see/do when in UK. Got some really good feedback on that. One related Q for those of you in UK. Will we need an international drivers license or will the valid US drivers license be satisfactory to drive in England, Scotland and Ireland (possibly Wales)? > > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Apr 4 14:43:51 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2017 21:43:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] While in UK References: <29981023.563244.1491267804930.JavaMail.root@vznit170128.mailsrvcs.net> <87E5283B-96A5-4A45-B52C-4455592917BD@ewilkins.com> One thing.........you guys from the States are somewhat used to looking at a map and saying "Right, 50 miles....that'll take x minutes". When you do that in the UK you have to say "Right, 50 miles.....that'll take you x+++++ minutes" ie our distances are less, but our times can be horrendous. Traffic........like you can waste an hour going round Birmingham in the rush hour, all on Motorway, but just too many cars. Think time, not distance. Use the AA website for best routes and times. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Wilkins Sent: 04 April 2017 16:20 Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] While in UK Your US license will be enough to use in the UK. I?ve driven all over the UK from Brighton to Edinburgh, Devon to Yorkshire. Plenty to see. I didn?t see a lot come through the list. What kinds of things would you like to see? Warwick Castle is nice, although very ?Disney? in its presentation. Windsor Castle is west of London and is a living castle where the Queen still resides part time. Near Oxford is Blenheim Palace. For classic English charm, you need to drive through parts of the Cotswolds. Best area is between Bath (worth a visit) and north toward Warwickshire (Stratford upon Avon, Warwick Castle), etc. The motor Museum at Gaydon was great when I went as there was at least one Works Healey and the whole set of Minis that took Monte Carlo, etc. I can tell you more if you have questions about the countryside or other sites. Rick Wilkins > On Apr 3, 2017, at 6:03 PM, llennep at verizon.net wrote: > > Thanks to all for the input on what my family should see/do when in UK. Got some really good feedback on that. One related Q for those of you in UK. Will we need an international drivers license or will the valid US drivers license be satisfactory to drive in England, Scotland and Ireland (possibly Wales)? > > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Apr 4 19:57:29 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2017 18:57:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] While in UK References: <29981023.563244.1491267804930.JavaMail.root@vznit170128.mailsrvcs.net> <87E5283B-96A5-4A45-B52C-4455592917BD@ewilkins.com> <002701d2ad84$2b522de0$81f689a0$@homecall.co.uk> Hmmm, just like Southern California! Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2017 1:44 PM To: 'Rick Wilkins' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] While in UK One thing.........you guys from the States are somewhat used to looking at a map and saying "Right, 50 miles....that'll take x minutes". When you do that in the UK you have to say "Right, 50 miles.....that'll take you x+++++ minutes" ie our distances are less, but our times can be horrendous. Traffic........like you can waste an hour going round Birmingham in the rush hour, all on Motorway, but just too many cars. Think time, not distance. Use the AA website for best routes and times. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Wilkins Sent: 04 April 2017 16:20 Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] While in UK Your US license will be enough to use in the UK. I?ve driven all over the UK from Brighton to Edinburgh, Devon to Yorkshire. Plenty to see. I didn?t see a lot come through the list. What kinds of things would you like to see? Warwick Castle is nice, although very ?Disney? in its presentation. Windsor Castle is west of London and is a living castle where the Queen still resides part time. Near Oxford is Blenheim Palace. For classic English charm, you need to drive through parts of the Cotswolds. Best area is between Bath (worth a visit) and north toward Warwickshire (Stratford upon Avon, Warwick Castle), etc. The motor Museum at Gaydon was great when I went as there was at least one Works Healey and the whole set of Minis that took Monte Carlo, etc. I can tell you more if you have questions about the countryside or other sites. Rick Wilkins > On Apr 3, 2017, at 6:03 PM, llennep at verizon.net wrote: > > Thanks to all for the input on what my family should see/do when in UK. Got some really good feedback on that. One related Q for those of you in UK. Will we need an international drivers license or will the valid US drivers license be satisfactory to drive in England, Scotland and Ireland (possibly Wales)? > > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From josef-eckert at t-online.de Wed Apr 5 01:12:42 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2017 09:12:42 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] While in UK References: <29981023.563244.1491267804930.JavaMail.root@vznit170128.mailsrvcs.net> <87E5283B-96A5-4A45-B52C-4455592917BD@ewilkins.com> <002701d2ad84$2b522de0$81f689a0$@homecall.co.uk> <0cf101d2adaf$fc3d8d20$f4b8a760$@roadrunner.com> Simonon is sooo....o right. When friends from America coming over they often think they can do what we call "stupid mileages" like 400 miles a day. You can do that for one day when you start in the middle of the night with less traffic than over day. I can only recommend when you like to enjoy your holidays to go down to 200 miles/day as an everage or even less. Otherwise you may see other cars on the motorway but nothing else. Its the same when you are going to central Europe like France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, Switerland. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] While in UK Datum: 2017-04-05T07:24:48+0200 Von: "Bruce Steele" An: "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Rick Wilkins'" Hmmm, just like Southern California! Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2017 1:44 PM To: 'Rick Wilkins' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] While in UK One thing.........you guys from the States are somewhat used to looking at a map and saying "Right, 50 miles....that'll take x minutes". When you do that in the UK you have to say "Right, 50 miles.....that'll take you x+++++ minutes" ie our distances are less, but our times can be horrendous. Traffic........like you can waste an hour going round Birmingham in the rush hour, all on Motorway, but just too many cars. Think time, not distance. Use the AA website for best routes and times. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Wilkins Sent: 04 April 2017 16:20 Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] While in UK Your US license will be enough to use in the UK. I?ve driven all over the UK from Brighton to Edinburgh, Devon to Yorkshire. Plenty to see. I didn?t see a lot come through the list. What kinds of things would you like to see? Warwick Castle is nice, although very ?Disney? in its presentation. Windsor Castle is west of London and is a living castle where the Queen still resides part time. Near Oxford is Blenheim Palace. For classic English charm, you need to drive through parts of the Cotswolds. Best area is between Bath (worth a visit) and north toward Warwickshire (Stratford upon Avon, Warwick Castle), etc. The motor Museum at Gaydon was great when I went as there was at least one Works Healey and the whole set of Minis that took Monte Carlo, etc. I can tell you more if you have questions about the countryside or other sites. Rick Wilkins > On Apr 3, 2017, at 6:03 PM, llennep at verizon.net wrote: > > Thanks to all for the input on what my family should see/do when in UK. Got some really good feedback on that. One related Q for those of you in UK. Will we need an international drivers license or will the valid US drivers license be satisfactory to drive in England, Scotland and Ireland (possibly Wales)? > > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Apr 5 01:58:53 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2017 09:58:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] While in UK References: <29981023.563244.1491267804930.JavaMail.root@vznit170128.mailsrvcs.net> <87E5283B-96A5-4A45-B52C-4455592917BD@ewilkins.com> <002701d2ad84$2b522de0$81f689a0$@homecall.co.uk> <0cf101d2adaf$fc3d8d20$f4b8a760$@roadrunner.com> Nothing like Southern California. Try the M25 round London in the morning or late afternoon. Kees Oudesluijs Op 5-4-2017 om 3:57 schreef Bruce Steele: > Hmmm, just like Southern California! > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan > Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2017 1:44 PM > To: 'Rick Wilkins' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] While in UK > > One thing.........you guys from the States are somewhat used to looking at a map and saying "Right, 50 miles....that'll take x minutes". When you do that in the UK you have to say "Right, 50 miles.....that'll take you x+++++ minutes" ie our distances are less, but our times can be horrendous. Traffic........like you can waste an hour going round Birmingham in the rush hour, all on Motorway, but just too many cars. Think time, not distance. > Use the AA website for best routes and times. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Wilkins > Sent: 04 April 2017 16:20 > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] While in UK > > Your US license will be enough to use in the UK. I?ve driven all over the UK from Brighton to Edinburgh, Devon to Yorkshire. Plenty to see. > > I didn?t see a lot come through the list. What kinds of things would you like to see? > > Warwick Castle is nice, although very ?Disney? in its presentation. Windsor Castle is west of London and is a living castle where the Queen still resides part time. > > Near Oxford is Blenheim Palace. For classic English charm, you need to drive through parts of the Cotswolds. Best area is between Bath (worth a visit) and north toward Warwickshire (Stratford upon Avon, Warwick Castle), etc. The motor Museum at Gaydon was great when I went as there was at least one Works Healey and the whole set of Minis that took Monte Carlo, etc. > > I can tell you more if you have questions about the countryside or other sites. > > Rick Wilkins > > >> On Apr 3, 2017, at 6:03 PM, llennep at verizon.net wrote: >> >> Thanks to all for the input on what my family should see/do when in UK. Got some really good feedback on that. One related Q for those of you in UK. Will we need an international drivers license or will the valid US drivers license be satisfactory to drive in England, Scotland and Ireland (possibly Wales)? >> >> Keith >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Apr 5 04:25:56 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2017 12:25:56 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] While in UK References: <29981023.563244.1491267804930.JavaMail.root@vznit170128.mailsrvcs.net> <87E5283B-96A5-4A45-B52C-4455592917BD@ewilkins.com> <002701d2ad84$2b522de0$81f689a0$@homecall.co.uk> <0cf101d2adaf$fc3d8d20$f4b8a760$@roadrunner.com> <1491376362974.918654.eb0c51c880cbb534264c12afbece7d09bf8c70e2@spica.telekom.de> Anyway, set your (up to date) SatNav to avoid motorways, especially in the United Kingdom, France, Holland, Italy and Germany and enjoy the scenery, people, castles, gardens etc. Also avoid the usual boring touristy "must have been there" places. You can see them better on the internet. As Joseph said, 200mile a day is often way more than enough. Enjoy looking around and taking your leisure, stay in small hotels, eat in exquisite small restaurants you will find "en route" or search for AirBnB places on you lap top. Add a bit of adventure. We have been doing this for many years in Europe (Italy, Spain, France, Ireland, UK, Switzerland, Germany, Sweden) and the US (California, Nevada, Utah, New Mexico, Arizona, Texas, Louisiana, New York-Canada Coastal route states) and met the most wonderful people in the most out of the way and beautiful places. Sometimes only travelling 50miles or less in a day. We also (but very seldom) staid in some very basic or not so good accommodation but that is all part of the fun. Kees Oudesluijs Op 5-4-2017 om 9:12 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de: > Simonon is sooo....o right. When friends from America coming over they often think they can do what we call "stupid mileages" like 400 miles a day. You can do that for one day when you start in the middle of the night with less traffic than over day. I can only recommend when you like to enjoy your holidays to go down to 200 miles/day as an everage or even less. Otherwise you may see other cars on the motorway but nothing else. > Its the same when you are going to central Europe like France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, Switerland. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] While in UK > Datum: 2017-04-05T07:24:48+0200 > Von: "Bruce Steele" > An: "'Simon Lachlan'" , "'Rick Wilkins'" > > Hmmm, just like Southern California! > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan > Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2017 1:44 PM > To: 'Rick Wilkins' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] While in UK > > One thing.........you guys from the States are somewhat used to looking at a map and saying "Right, 50 miles....that'll take x minutes". When you do that in the UK you have to say "Right, 50 miles.....that'll take you x+++++ minutes" ie our distances are less, but our times can be horrendous. Traffic........like you can waste an hour going round Birmingham in the rush hour, all on Motorway, but just too many cars. Think time, not distance. > Use the AA website for best routes and times. > Simon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Wilkins > Sent: 04 April 2017 16:20 > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] While in UK > > Your US license will be enough to use in the UK. I?ve driven all over the UK from Brighton to Edinburgh, Devon to Yorkshire. Plenty to see. > > I didn?t see a lot come through the list. What kinds of things would you like to see? > > Warwick Castle is nice, although very ?Disney? in its presentation. Windsor Castle is west of London and is a living castle where the Queen still resides part time. > > Near Oxford is Blenheim Palace. For classic English charm, you need to drive through parts of the Cotswolds. Best area is between Bath (worth a visit) and north toward Warwickshire (Stratford upon Avon, Warwick Castle), etc. The motor Museum at Gaydon was great when I went as there was at least one Works Healey and the whole set of Minis that took Monte Carlo, etc. > > I can tell you more if you have questions about the countryside or other sites. > > Rick Wilkins > > >> On Apr 3, 2017, at 6:03 PM, llennep at verizon.net wrote: >> >> Thanks to all for the input on what my family should see/do when in UK. Got some really good feedback on that. One related Q for those of you in UK. Will we need an international drivers license or will the valid US drivers license be satisfactory to drive in England, Scotland and Ireland (possibly Wales)? >> >> Keith >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual >> donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert at t-online.de > > ? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From rd_parker at juno.com Wed Apr 5 09:20:30 2017 From: rd_parker at juno.com (rd_parker at juno.com) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2017 08:20:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Thank You. Fellow Listers, Thank you for listing information on automobile rotisseries for me. Regards, Bob P. Bellflower, CA. ____________________________________________________________ 1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines in Seconds Fit Mom Daily http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58e50b66df6ab652672st01vuc From roggrace at telus.net Wed Apr 5 19:49:01 2017 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2017 18:49:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hi oil pressure - now resolved References: usbVcqho5Ms6WusbXcCBUN Thanks to all for great ideas and interest. Problem now resolved after removing oil pan again .... pains ! Issue was that the new rubber/silicon gasket did not have the small cut out for the return oil from the relief valve. This is not very obvious and even experienced AH people were not aware of this hole in the block; the oil escapes in a gap in the gasket between the 2 flanges. So this oil could not escape back into the pan and hence the pressure built up. Supplier was most apologetic as evidently this one shipped before making this cut out ... grrr !! What was also confusing was that 80 plus psi pressure only happened when the oil was warm (20 mins running) and that is why I didn?t notice it at first. Fortunately I had taken a pix of the bad rubber one before installing and so was able to compare it to a regular cork one that I had. So for interest here are a few pix of the gaskets and hopefully won?t happen to anyone else. Tkx rg From: Michael MacLean Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2017 8:24 PM To: Roger Grace ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hi oil pressure Does not matter the age of the gauge. (rhyme?) You need to put a calibrated gauge inline with the oil pressure gauge. Only way to tell the true oil pressure. Mike MacLean On Sunday, April 2, 2017 8:15 PM, Roger Grace wrote: Just started my BJ8 after a long Winter project on OD and other things. Only engine work done was to change oil pan gasket. New oil and new filter. VR1 20-50 oil. When starting from cold oil pressure regulates to around 60 psi. You can see it regulating. As soon as it starts to warm up (about 10 mins running) pressure gets very hi and follows RPM to about 100 psi at 2000 RPM. Pressure gauge is almost like a tacho ! Today pulled the relief valve (not a trivial task as have oil cooler pipes obstructing) and inspected. Looks OK apart from a few scuffs on the valve; there is a small washer behind the spring by PO. Spring free length is 2.3 ins plus 0.1 for washer Suspecting the filter, changed it too. Oil gauge is but 12 months old. Prior to this oil pressure behaved normally; and this is a recently rebuilt engine with about 5k mi At my wits end and need some ideas please. rg _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170404_084212.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 191054 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170404_083814.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 230829 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170308_114110.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 186346 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 5 20:18:54 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2017 04:18:54 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] Starter I took the advice of several on the List and Forum, and had the starter for my BJ8 overhauled. I installed it and gave it a whirl; I was caught off guard at how fast the engine turned over and fired-up, and over-revved the engine for a couple seconds. I won't say it was as fast as a geared starter, but it spun the engine plenty fast, and much faster than I recall it ever working. All this time--over 30 years' ownership of this car--I just assumed that Lucas starters sounded like it was all they could do to crank with the 'rnh-rnh-rnh' sound; like the starters on most piston aircraft engines I've flown (most of these planes were seriously under-batteried). Thanks to all who provided advice. Now, I gotta get the starter on the BN2 done. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 6 03:00:37 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2017 19:00:37 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Starter References: <231213499.1122809.1491445135207@connect.xfinity.com> Glad to hear Bob :-) Lucas has been much maligned by many people who generally don't read their service manual, or actually service & maintain these serviceable components. Lucas distributors saw Formula Junior engines rev over 9,000 rpm in the era! But you are right Bob. Lucas starters and generators tend to degrade in performance over time, rather than just outright fail. Best Chris Positive earth, Lucas points, all genuine Lucas BJ8 > On 6 Apr. 2017, at 12:18 pm, Bob Spidell wrote: > > I took the advice of several on the List and Forum, and had the starter for my BJ8 overhauled. I installed it and gave it a whirl; I was caught off guard at how fast the engine turned over and fired-up, and over-revved the engine for a couple seconds. I won't say it was as fast as a geared starter, but it spun the engine plenty fast, and much faster than I recall it ever working. All this time--over 30 years' ownership of this car--I just assumed that Lucas starters sounded like it was all they could do to crank with the 'rnh-rnh-rnh' sound; like the starters on most piston aircraft engines I've flown (most of these planes were seriously under-batteried). > > > > Thanks to all who provided advice. Now, I gotta get the starter on the BN2 done. > > > > Bob > > > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 6 07:12:54 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2017 23:12:54 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Simmons lead hammer late BJ8 Hi all Does anyone have a late BJ8 Simmons lead alloy mallet / hammer they'd sell? Asking for a mate building a Concours, hopefully Gold, June 1967 BJ8. That's the Heritage build record date. :-) Please contact me off list. Thanks in advance. Best Chris Dimmock. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 6 08:11:59 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2017 16:11:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Starter References: <231213499.1122809.1491445135207@connect.xfinity.com> <4BAD83AE-AAC9-4275-B209-D756A04BABF4@gmail.com> Lucas parts (starter motor, dynamo, alternator, distributor, switches etc.) are amongst the most rugged items in automotive history. It is suggested by some that they have a bad reputation because they fail on classic cars. This is always due to lack of maintainance. If maintained properly they last forever. A clean and a drop of oil in the right spot now and then does wonders. They are also imminently rebuildable/repairable. The same goes for SU carbs and pumps and most Smiths/Jaeger items. I very much doubt that modern stuff will last 50+++ years and will be rebuildable in due course. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-4-2017 om 11:00 schreef Chris Dimmock: > Glad to hear Bob > :-) > Lucas has been much maligned by many people who generally don't read > their service manual, or actually service & maintain these serviceable > components. > Lucas distributors saw Formula Junior engines rev over 9,000 rpm in > the era! > But you are right Bob. Lucas starters and generators tend to degrade > in performance over time, rather than just outright fail. > Best > Chris > Positive earth, Lucas points, all genuine Lucas BJ8 > > > On 6 Apr. 2017, at 12:18 pm, Bob Spidell >> I took the advice of several on the List and Forum, and had the >> starter for my BJ8 overhauled. I installed it and gave it a whirl; I >> was caught off guard at how fast the engine turned over and fired-up, >> and over-revved the engine for a couple seconds. I won't say it was >> as fast as a geared starter, but it spun the engine plenty fast, and >> much faster than I recall it ever working. All this time--over 30 >> years' ownership of this car--I just assumed that Lucas starters >> sounded like it was all they could do to crank with the 'rnh-rnh-rnh' >> sound; like the starters on most piston aircraft engines I've flown >> (most of these planes were seriously under-batteried). >> >> >> Thanks to all who provided advice. Now, I gotta get the starter on >> the BN2 done. >> >> >> Bob >> >> >> -------------------------------- >> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rft2 at aol.com Thu Apr 6 08:21:41 2017 From: rft2 at aol.com (rft2 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2017 10:21:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Starter References: <231213499.1122809.1491445135207@connect.xfinity.com> Hi Bob, Did you have your starter rebuilt locally or is there a company that specializes in AH starter rebuilds? Mal Hickok -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Thu, Apr 6, 2017 4:31 am Subject: [Healeys] Starter I took the advice of several on the List and Forum, and had the starter for my BJ8 overhauled. I installed it and gave it a whirl; I was caught off guard at how fast the engine turned over and fired-up, and over-revved the engine for a couple seconds. I won't say it was as fast as a geared starter, but it spun the engine plenty fast, and much faster than I recall it ever working. All this time--over 30 years' ownership of this car--I just assumed that Lucas starters sounded like it was all they could do to crank with the 'rnh-rnh-rnh' sound; like the starters on most piston aircraft engines I've flown (most of these planes were seriously under-batteried). Thanks to all who provided advice. Now, I gotta get the starter on the BN2 done. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 6 08:56:02 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2017 16:56:02 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] Starter References: <231213499.1122809.1491445135207@connect.xfinity.com> <15b43a46eb9-173d-416e@webprd-m65.mail.aol.com> I've had my generator and starter rebuilt recently by Star Auto Electric: http://www.starautoelectric.com/ The owner, Mike Martinez, knows his stuff and is very responsive and helpful (I had lots of questions). Both ran about $300/ea, which ain't cheap, but given either--esp. the generator--can strand you the peace of mind is worth it to me (I almost bought a spare generator to take on long road trips, but now feel confident I don't need one). He turned both around in a day or two. I also bought a voltage regulator from him, which he sources from England, because he convinced me the one I bought from Moss a couple years ago is inadequate (he said some of the repop VRs are not only Chinese-made, but are actually made for tractors, and the guts look flimsy compared to OEM). NFI, but tell Mike I sent you ;) Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > On April 6, 2017 at 4:21 PM rft2 at aol.com wrote: > > Hi Bob, > > Did you have your starter rebuilt locally or is there a company that specializes in AH starter rebuilds? > > Mal Hickok > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys > Sent: Thu, Apr 6, 2017 4:31 am > Subject: [Healeys] Starter > > I took the advice of several on the List and Forum, and had the starter for my BJ8 overhauled. I installed it and gave it a whirl; I was caught off guard at how fast the engine turned over and fired-up, and over-revved the engine for a couple seconds. I won't say it was as fast as a geared starter, but it spun the engine plenty fast, and much faster than I recall it ever working. All this time--over 30 years' ownership of this car--I just assumed that Lucas starters sounded like it was all they could do to crank with the 'rnh-rnh-rnh' sound; like the starters on most piston aircraft engines I've flown (most of these planes were seriously under-batteried). > > Thanks to all who provided advice. Now, I gotta get the starter on the BN2 done. > > Bob > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Apr 6 11:13:51 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2017 10:13:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?starter?= after 50 years or more of faithful service my starter went TU. i had it rebuilt locally last summer and it lasted until last week when it ceased to turn over at all. the rebuilder had stated that the armature was bad and replaced it, doubling the price they had given me for the rebuild. negotiating with them now to see what they will do as i cannot find the receipt. hope they do not say the armature is bad again. From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Thu Apr 6 12:54:53 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2017 18:54:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Starter References: <231213499.1122809.1491445135207@connect.xfinity.com> <15b43a46eb9-173d-416e@webprd-m65.mail.aol.com> <1687670987.1137501.1491490563766@connect.xfinity.com> I too had my starter and generator rebuilt by Star ? excellent work and VERY responsive service. Ed O?Neal From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2017 10:56 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net; rft2 at aol.com Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter I've had my generator and starter rebuilt recently by Star Auto Electric: http://www.starautoelectric.com/ The owner, Mike Martinez, knows his stuff and is very responsive and helpful (I had lots of questions). Both ran about $300/ea, which ain't cheap, but given either--esp. the generator--can strand you the peace of mind is worth it to me (I almost bought a spare generator to take on long road trips, but now feel confident I don't need one). He turned both around in a day or two. I also bought a voltage regulator from him, which he sources from England, because he convinced me the one I bought from Moss a couple years ago is inadequate (he said some of the repop VRs are not only Chinese-made, but are actually made for tractors, and the guts look flimsy compared to OEM). NFI, but tell Mike I sent you ;) Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA Hi Bob, Did you have your starter rebuilt locally or is there a company that specializes in AH starter rebuilds? Mal Hickok -----Original Message----- Sent: Thu, Apr 6, 2017 4:31 am Subject: [Healeys] Starter I took the advice of several on the List and Forum, and had the starter for my BJ8 overhauled. I installed it and gave it a whirl; I was caught off guard at how fast the engine turned over and fired-up, and over-revved the engine for a couple seconds. I won't say it was as fast as a geared starter, but it spun the engine plenty fast, and much faster than I recall it ever working. All this time--over 30 years' ownership of this car--I just assumed that Lucas starters sounded like it was all they could do to crank with the 'rnh-rnh-rnh' sound; like the starters on most piston aircraft engines I've flown (most of these planes were seriously under-batteried). Thanks to all who provided advice. Now, I gotta get the starter on the BN2 done. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charles1783 at charter.net Thu Apr 6 18:04:43 2017 From: charles1783 at charter.net (Charles Johnson) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2017 20:04:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Valve cover racers I am planning on entering the valve cover races at the 2017 Conclave, but I have no idea where to source wheels and axels. Anyone have a source? V/r CJ 63 BJ7 Sent from my iPhone From go2ghill at aol.com Thu Apr 6 21:28:55 2017 From: go2ghill at aol.com (Greg Hill) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2017 23:28:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide Thanks Bob, Order the book "Classic British Car Electrical Systems" based on Bob Spidell's recommendation. Just got my copy and was very pleased. Wished I had the book years ago. I might keep my copy in the boot. Greg Hill 58 BN4 67 Bj8 (golden beige) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 6 22:14:14 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2017 21:14:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hi oil pressure - now resolved References: usbVcqho5Ms6WusbXcCBUN At first glance one would think that small cutout is a defect! John ?62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Apr 7 02:52:56 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2017 09:52:56 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide References: <15b46752ba8-70e7-7af0@webprd-m27.mail.aol.com> There?s another excellent book by Autobooks:- Autocare Manual:- ?Electrical Systems Including Tapes and Radios?. Autobbok 651 By David Rowlands ISBN:-0 85 147 905 7 First edition 1975 Plainly, the book is retrospective ie it looks at cars built up to ?75. Since our cars were State of the Art and technical miracles in their day, the book covers the Healeys rather well! Book seems to be about ?2:99 on UK eBay. That?s less than the cost of a pint! (Pint being a very sound and universal currency. Nor one likely to devalue in my opinion). Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Hill Sent: 07 April 2017 04:29 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide Thanks Bob, Order the book "Classic British Car Electrical Systems" based on Bob Spidell's recommendation. Just got my copy and was very pleased. Wished I had the book years ago. I might keep my copy in the boot. Greg Hill 58 BN4 67 Bj8 (golden beige) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjhco at att.net Fri Apr 7 07:02:07 2017 From: rjhco at att.net (Richard J. Hockert) Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2017 08:02:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Valve cover racers References: <53BC1F19-0103-449F-B9F3-275A1886ECE3@charter.net> There is some information here: http://villagevcrs.wixsite.com/villagevcrs/racing-rules Best regards, Jim > On Apr 6, 2017, at 7:04 PM, Charles Johnson wrote: > > I am planning on entering the valve cover races at the 2017 Conclave, but I have no idea where to source wheels and axels. Anyone have a source? > > V/r CJ > 63 BJ7 > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjhco at att.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From glemon at neb.rr.com Sat Apr 8 11:39:17 2017 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2017 17:39:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Tranny Casing Last call, one chip on back outer edge where O/D bolts up. First taker for price of shipping (US only) or it goes for aluminum scrap, which would be a shame. Greg Lemon From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 8 12:51:11 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2017 11:51:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement Listers, Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a BJ8? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy enough for a ham-fisted DIYer). I don't want to pull the whole thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or is it best to let the pro do it? TIA, Bob From goldengt at cal.net Sat Apr 8 15:37:09 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2017 14:37:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement I did it 15 years ago. Helps to have 2 people.?Frame to shroud seal wa so crappy, I kept the original.?Ken Freese?65 bj8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 4/8/17 11:51 AM (GMT-08:00) To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement Listers, Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a BJ8?? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy enough for a ham-fisted DIYer).? I don't want to pull the whole thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or is it best to let the pro do it? TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 8 15:43:10 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2017 14:43:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement References: For my BT7 there are two thicknesses of glass available. The thicker glass is needed for a proper fit with the rubber seal. The thinner glass will allow the soft top rail to pull the upper chrome trim from the glass. I don't know if there are two different glass thicknesses for a BJ8. John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, April 8, 2017 11:51 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement Listers, Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a BJ8? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy enough for a ham-fisted DIYer). I don't want to pull the whole thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or is it best to let the pro do it? TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From schottc at knology.net Sat Apr 8 16:18:53 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charlie Schott) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2017 17:18:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement References: I've done it on a BJ8 and a BT7 windshield and it's not hard to do. Make sure that you have good corner brackets and the right length screws. The hardest part is pulling the lower seal thru the T slot. Use plenty of liquid dishwater soap and grab the end with vice grips to pull it. Regards, Charlie Schott -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 1:51 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement Listers, Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a BJ8? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy enough for a ham-fisted DIYer). I don't want to pull the whole thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or is it best to let the pro do it? TIA, Bob _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 8 16:29:41 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2017 15:29:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement References: Now I'm confused ... it looks like the glass should just slide out of the inner frame; you're saying I have to remove the whole kit-and-kaboodle, including the outer frame and frame-to-shroud seal? Bob On 4/8/2017 3:18 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > I've done it on a BJ8 and a BT7 windshield and it's not hard to do. > Make sure that you have good corner brackets and the right length > screws. The hardest part is pulling the lower seal thru the T slot. > Use plenty of liquid dishwater soap and grab the end with vice grips > to pull it. > > Regards, > > Charlie Schott > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 1:51 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > > Listers, > > Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a > BJ8? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# > 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy > enough for a ham-fisted DIYer). I don't want to pull the whole > thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or > is it best to let the pro do it? > > TIA, > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > From schottc at knology.net Sat Apr 8 16:57:15 2017 From: schottc at knology.net (Charlie Schott) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2017 17:57:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement References: Bob, Once I removed the two side posts, I disassembled the frame to have the four pieces chromed (a top and bottom and two sides), as well as the posts. Then they are reassembled on reverse order. Regards, Charlie -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 5:29 PM To: Charlie Schott ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement Now I'm confused ... it looks like the glass should just slide out of the inner frame; you're saying I have to remove the whole kit-and-kaboodle, including the outer frame and frame-to-shroud seal? Bob On 4/8/2017 3:18 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > I've done it on a BJ8 and a BT7 windshield and it's not hard to do. Make > sure that you have good corner brackets and the right length screws. The > hardest part is pulling the lower seal thru the T slot. Use plenty of > liquid dishwater soap and grab the end with vice grips to pull it. > > Regards, > > Charlie Schott > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 1:51 PM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > > Listers, > > Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a > BJ8? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# > 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy > enough for a ham-fisted DIYer). I don't want to pull the whole > thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or > is it best to let the pro do it? > > TIA, > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 8 16:58:22 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2017 15:58:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement References: <913C2EDEB996432896DC20B8B0D15DF6@CharliePC> Thanks, Charlie. Bob On 4/8/2017 3:57 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > Bob, > > Once I removed the two side posts, I disassembled the frame to have > the four pieces chromed (a top and bottom and two sides), as well as > the posts. Then they are reassembled on reverse order. > > Regards, > > Charlie > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 5:29 PM > To: Charlie Schott ; Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > > Now I'm confused ... it looks like the glass should just slide out of > the inner frame; you're saying I have to remove the whole > kit-and-kaboodle, including the outer frame and frame-to-shroud seal? > > Bob > > > On 4/8/2017 3:18 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: >> I've done it on a BJ8 and a BT7 windshield and it's not hard to do. >> Make sure that you have good corner brackets and the right length >> screws. The hardest part is pulling the lower seal thru the T slot. >> Use plenty of liquid dishwater soap and grab the end with vice grips >> to pull it. >> >> Regards, >> >> Charlie Schott >> >> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell >> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 1:51 PM >> To: Healeys >> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement >> >> Listers, >> >> Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a >> BJ8? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# >> 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy >> enough for a ham-fisted DIYer). I don't want to pull the whole >> thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or >> is it best to let the pro do it? >> >> TIA, >> Bob >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net >> > > From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com Sat Apr 8 17:29:56 2017 From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2017 19:29:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement References: First question is why are you replacing it ? Not a easy job , Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 8, 2017, at 2:51 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Listers, > > Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a BJ8? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy enough for a ham-fisted DIYer). I don't want to pull the whole thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or is it best to let the pro do it? > > TIA, > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com > From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 8 18:01:02 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2017 17:01:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement References: <3D867731-21D2-49E0-B3AA-D51F9A4FC033@yahoo.com> It's got almost 200K miles on it; got a half-dozen 'splat' (star) cracks and more than a few chips, and is generally crazed from being sandblasted all those miles (the wipers, being mostly ineffectual, didn't cause much wear). Plus, I got a new Pilkington from Moss as part of a 'settlement' for two defective water pumps that punctured a radiator and partly spoiled a long cross-country trip (I spent over $900 trailering the car from WY, and Moss split the difference with me). It would be nice to have a clear view for my upcoming 2-week, 5K mile trip. It's been my experience that most windshields--even on new cars--need replacement by 100K miles because of sand, chips and abrasion from wipers, so this original windshield served heroically. Bob On 4/8/2017 4:29 PM, fsufan1952 at yahoo.com wrote: > First question is why are you replacing it ? Not a easy job , > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Apr 8, 2017, at 2:51 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> Listers, >> >> Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a BJ8? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy enough for a ham-fisted DIYer). I don't want to pull the whole thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or is it best to let the pro do it? >> >> TIA, >> Bob >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com >> > From ghaywood at ec.rr.com Sun Apr 9 07:28:11 2017 From: ghaywood at ec.rr.com (George Haywood) Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2017 09:28:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: BJ8 Windshield Replacement ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: George Haywood Date: Apr 9, 2017 8:58 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement To: Bob Spidell Cc: > Hi Bob,? You don't have to remove anything but the inner frame to replace just the glass.? Only take off the whole frame if you need to replace the frame to shroud seal(THAT'S ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE CASE OF BEER JOBS).? I think you have to remove the top outer frame and the screws on the side pillars in the door openings on each side.? I think then the inner frame will slide out.? I'm glad you got the Pilkington glass.? I got one of the less expensive screens and it was not wide enough to seal from side to side. After spending the extra $300 or so for the Pilkington the seals went on better.? Take care,? George Haywood, '65 bj8 > > On Apr 8, 2017 6:29 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > > Now I'm confused ... it looks like the glass should just slide out of > > the inner frame; you're saying I have to remove the whole > > kit-and-kaboodle, including the outer frame and frame-to-shroud seal? > > > > Bob > > > > > > On 4/8/2017 3:18 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > > > I've done it on a BJ8 and a BT7 windshield and it's not hard to do. > > > Make sure that you have good corner brackets and the right length > > > screws. The hardest part is pulling the lower seal thru the T slot. > > > Use plenty of liquid dishwater soap and grab the end with vice grips > > > to pull it. > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > > Charlie Schott > > > > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > > > Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 1:51 PM > > > To: Healeys > > > Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > > > > > > Listers, > > > > > > Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a > > > BJ8?? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# > > > 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy > > > enough for a ham-fisted DIYer).? I don't want to pull the whole > > > thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or > > > is it best to let the pro do it? > > > > > > TIA, > > > Bob > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ghaywood at ec.rr.com > > From ghaywood at ec.rr.com Sun Apr 9 15:58:06 2017 From: ghaywood at ec.rr.com (George Haywood) Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2017 17:58:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: BJ8 Windshield Replacement Jim,???? DON'T BUY THE CHEAPER GLASS!!!?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? On Apr 9, 2017 11:05 AM, Jim Frakes wrote: > > Thanks for info George. I was. contemplating the cheaper glass. > Jim > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 9, 2017, at 10:52 AM, George Haywood wrote: > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > > From: George Haywood > > Date: Apr 9, 2017 8:58 AM > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > > To: Bob Spidell > > Cc: > > > >> Hi Bob,? You don't have to remove anything but the inner frame to replace just the glass.? Only take off the whole frame if you need to replace the frame to shroud seal(THAT'S ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE CASE OF BEER JOBS).? I think you have to remove the top outer frame and the screws on the side pillars in the door openings on each side.? I think then the inner frame will slide out.? I'm glad you got the Pilkington glass.? I got one of the less expensive screens and it was not wide enough to seal from side to side. After spending the extra $300 or so for the Pilkington the seals went on better.? Take care,? George Haywood, '65 bj8 > >> > >>> On Apr 8, 2017 6:29 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >>> > >>> Now I'm confused ... it looks like the glass should just slide out of > >>> the inner frame; you're saying I have to remove the whole > >>> kit-and-kaboodle, including the outer frame and frame-to-shroud seal? > >>> > >>> Bob > >>> > >>> > >>>> On 4/8/2017 3:18 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > >>>> I've done it on a BJ8 and a BT7 windshield and it's not hard to do. > >>>> Make sure that you have good corner brackets and the right length > >>>> screws. The hardest part is pulling the lower seal thru the T slot. > >>>> Use plenty of liquid dishwater soap and grab the end with vice grips > >>>> to pull it. > >>>> > >>>> Regards, > >>>> > >>>> Charlie Schott > >>>> > >>>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > >>>> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 1:51 PM > >>>> To: Healeys > >>>> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > >>>> > >>>> Listers, > >>>> > >>>> Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a > >>>> BJ8?? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# > >>>> 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy > >>>> enough for a ham-fisted DIYer).? I don't want to pull the whole > >>>> thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or > >>>> is it best to let the pro do it? > >>>> > >>>> TIA, > >>>> Bob > >>>> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >>>> > >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >>>> > >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > >>>> > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >>> > >>> Healeys at autox.team.net > >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >>> > >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ghaywood at ec.rr.com > >>> > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jimf at frakes-eng.com > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE > The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information that is privileged or confidential.? If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited.? If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number listed above or by return e-mail. > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Apr 10 01:01:11 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:01:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank References: <426674048.66609.1491807671938.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Apr 10 03:48:38 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 05:48:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide References: <15b46752ba8-70e7-7af0@webprd-m27.mail.aol.com> <000001d2af7c$5abdf650$1039e2f0$@homecall.co.uk> Listers, Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, 100-Six and 3000. The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many years. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100-100-6-3000-/351903094555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and-3000-Restorers-Guide-to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash=item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The-Restorers-Guide-to-100-100-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash=item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From goldengt at cal.net Mon Apr 10 08:34:29 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:34:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank As is.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Michael MacLean Date: 4/10/17 12:01 AM (GMT-08:00) To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 10 08:43:06 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:43:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank References: <426674048.66609.1491807671938.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <426674048.66609.1491807671938@mail.yahoo.com> My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for at least 20 years). However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT' (the whole doc is in caps). So, if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin oxide layer on its surface anyway). http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf Bob On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. Can I use it as is, or > should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? > Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 10 08:48:11 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:48:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide References: <15b46752ba8-70e7-7af0@webprd-m27.mail.aol.com> <000001d2af7c$5abdf650$1039e2f0$@homecall.co.uk> <58EB54F6.6030509@earthlink.net> $1,999 and he won't even overnight it!!!??? On 4/10/2017 2:48 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, > 100-Six and 3000. The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. > But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many > years. > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100-100-6-3000-/351903094555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and-3000-Restorers-Guide-to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash=item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK&vxp=mtr > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The-Restorers-Guide-to-100-100-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash=item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > > From goldengt at cal.net Mon Apr 10 11:13:45 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 10:13:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have 130000 miles on an aluminum tank. No sealer.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 4/10/17 7:43 AM (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for at least 20 years).? However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT'? (the whole doc is in caps).? So, if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin oxide layer on its surface anyway). http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf Bob On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jc9821 at msn.com Mon Apr 10 14:16:21 2017 From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 20:16:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door weather seal References: I need to replace the door seals on my BJ8. I see that Furflex and Bristleflex are used. Furflex is available from Moss. Where is Bristleflex available and is it a better choice? ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 114 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Fwd: Re: BJ8 Windshield Replacement (George Haywood) 2. Aluminum Gas Tank (Michael MacLean) 3. Re: Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide (Bob Haskell) 4. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (goldengt) 5. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (Bob Spidell) 6. Re: Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide (Bob Spidell) 7. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (goldengt) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2017 17:58:06 -0400 From: George Haywood To: Jim Frakes Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: BJ8 Windshield Replacement Jim,???? DON'T BUY THE CHEAPER GLASS!!!?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? On Apr 9, 2017 11:05 AM, Jim Frakes wrote: > > Thanks for info George. I was. contemplating the cheaper glass. > Jim > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 9, 2017, at 10:52 AM, George Haywood wrote: > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > > From: George Haywood > > Date: Apr 9, 2017 8:58 AM > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > > To: Bob Spidell > > Cc: > > > >> Hi Bob,? You don't have to remove anything but the inner frame to replace just the glass.? Only take off the whole frame if you need to replace the frame to shroud seal(THAT'S ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE CASE OF BEER JOBS).? I think you have to remove the top outer frame and the screws on the side pillars in the door openings on each side.? I think then the inner frame will slide out.? I'm glad you got the Pilkington glass.? I got one of the less expensive screens and it was not wide enough to seal from side to side. After spending the extra $300 or so for the Pilkington the seals went on better.? Take care,? George Haywood, '65 bj8 > >> > >>> On Apr 8, 2017 6:29 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >>> > >>> Now I'm confused ... it looks like the glass should just slide out of > >>> the inner frame; you're saying I have to remove the whole > >>> kit-and-kaboodle, including the outer frame and frame-to-shroud seal? > >>> > >>> Bob > >>> > >>> > >>>> On 4/8/2017 3:18 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > >>>> I've done it on a BJ8 and a BT7 windshield and it's not hard to do. > >>>> Make sure that you have good corner brackets and the right length > >>>> screws. The hardest part is pulling the lower seal thru the T slot. > >>>> Use plenty of liquid dishwater soap and grab the end with vice grips > >>>> to pull it. > >>>> > >>>> Regards, > >>>> > >>>> Charlie Schott > >>>> > >>>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > >>>> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 1:51 PM > >>>> To: Healeys > >>>> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > >>>> > >>>> Listers, > >>>> > >>>> Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a > >>>> BJ8?? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# > >>>> 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy > >>>> enough for a ham-fisted DIYer).? I don't want to pull the whole > >>>> thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or > >>>> is it best to let the pro do it? > >>>> > >>>> TIA, > >>>> Bob > >>>> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > >>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >>>> > >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > >>>> > >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > >>>> > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >>> > >>> Healeys at autox.team.net > >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > >>> > >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ghaywood at ec.rr.com > >>> > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jimf at frakes-eng.com > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE > The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information that is privileged or confidential.? If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited.? If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number listed above or by return e-mail. > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:01:11 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 05:48:38 -0400 From: Bob Haskell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide Listers, Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, 100-Six and 3000. The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many years. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100-100-6-3000-/351903094555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and-3000-Restorers-Guide-to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash=item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The-Restorers-Guide-to-100-100-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash=item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:34:29 -0700 From: goldengt To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" , Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank As is.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Michael MacLean Date: 4/10/17 12:01 AM (GMT-08:00) To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:43:06 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for at least 20 years). However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT' (the whole doc is in caps). So, if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin oxide layer on its surface anyway). http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf Bob On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. Can I use it as is, or > should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? > Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:48:11 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide $1,999 and he won't even overnight it!!!??? On 4/10/2017 2:48 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, > 100-Six and 3000. The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. > But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many > years. > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100-100-6-3000-/351903094555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and-3000-Restorers-Guide-to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash=item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK&vxp=mtr > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The-Restorers-Guide-to-100-100-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash=item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > > ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 10:13:45 -0700 From: goldengt To: Bob Spidell , healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have 130000 miles on an aluminum tank. No sealer.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 4/10/17 7:43 AM (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for at least 20 years).? However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT'? (the whole doc is in caps).? So, if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin oxide layer on its surface anyway). http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf Bob On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 114 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Apr 10 14:41:02 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 21:41:02 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" Hi, Advice from the experts required please:- (No just the experts. We can all have a go. So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- QUOTE:- Hi Uncle Simon! ...... I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well in the morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after the gate... And it would not start: as if the battery was flat: not much happening when trying to start it! I spent 30 min checking the distributor, wires, etc. all seemed normal. I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which got the car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found myself in a traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried keeping the revs up but it did not work well: the engine was making a weird noise, the car had very little power and the revs did not want to go high: 4500 maximum. I don't see what that engine problem has got to do with the battery? And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I pushed the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did not go back. I might do in a few days... Any ideas about the problem!? PH UNQUOTE Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it's used quite frequently and doesn't get time to get charged. Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is a BJ8 with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. I'm thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car's in a basement in Paris; I'm in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Apr 10 15:13:21 2017 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 21:13:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank References: Well, it seems it's unanimous, just leave it as is and install.? One less job for this restoration is always welcome.? Thanks to everyone on the list that took the time to set me straight about aluminum gas tanks. Mike MacLean On Monday, April 10, 2017 11:58 AM, goldengt wrote: I have 130000 miles on an aluminum tank. No sealer.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 4/10/17 7:43 AM (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for at least 20 years).? However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT'? (the whole doc is in caps).? So, if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin oxide layer on its surface anyway). http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf Bob On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Apr 10 16:30:46 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 22:30:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door weather seal References: , Yes Bristleflex is a far better choice. You can obtain it directly from MacGregor Coactrimming from Dundas, Ontario, Canada. Owner is Martin MacGregor. His phone number is 905-627-4006 The best way to contact him is by phone, if you ry through the website, it may be a while. Fantastic to deal with and Bristleflex is great stuff. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of John and Judy Carter Sent: April 10, 2017 8:16 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door weather seal I need to replace the door seals on my BJ8. I see that Furflex and Bristleflex are used. Furflex is available from Moss. Where is Bristleflex available and is it a better choice? ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 114 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Fwd: Re: BJ8 Windshield Replacement (George Haywood) 2. Aluminum Gas Tank (Michael MacLean) 3. Re: Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide (Bob Haskell) 4. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (goldengt) 5. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (Bob Spidell) 6. Re: Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide (Bob Spidell) 7. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (goldengt) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2017 17:58:06 -0400 From: George Haywood To: Jim Frakes Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: BJ8 Windshield Replacement Jim,???? DON'T BUY THE CHEAPER GLASS!!!?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? On Apr 9, 2017 11:05 AM, Jim Frakes wrote: > > Thanks for info George. I was. contemplating the cheaper glass. > Jim > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 9, 2017, at 10:52 AM, George Haywood wrote: > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > > From: George Haywood > > Date: Apr 9, 2017 8:58 AM > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > > To: Bob Spidell > > Cc: > > > >> Hi Bob,? You don't have to remove anything but the inner frame to replace just the glass.? Only take off the whole frame if you need to replace the frame to shroud seal(THAT'S ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE CASE OF BEER JOBS).? I think you have to remove the top outer frame and the screws on the side pillars in the door openings on each side.? I think then the inner frame will slide out.? I'm glad you got the Pilkington glass.? I got one of the less expensive screens and it was not wide enough to seal from side to side. After spending the extra $300 or so for the Pilkington the seals went on better.? Take care,? George Haywood, '65 bj8 > >> > >>> On Apr 8, 2017 6:29 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >>> > >>> Now I'm confused ... it looks like the glass should just slide out of > >>> the inner frame; you're saying I have to remove the whole > >>> kit-and-kaboodle, including the outer frame and frame-to-shroud seal? > >>> > >>> Bob > >>> > >>> > >>>> On 4/8/2017 3:18 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > >>>> I've done it on a BJ8 and a BT7 windshield and it's not hard to do. > >>>> Make sure that you have good corner brackets and the right length > >>>> screws. The hardest part is pulling the lower seal thru the T slot. > >>>> Use plenty of liquid dishwater soap and grab the end with vice grips > >>>> to pull it. > >>>> > >>>> Regards, > >>>> > >>>> Charlie Schott > >>>> > >>>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > >>>> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 1:51 PM > >>>> To: Healeys > >>>> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > >>>> > >>>> Listers, > >>>> > >>>> Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a > >>>> BJ8?? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# > >>>> 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy > >>>> enough for a ham-fisted DIYer).? I don't want to pull the whole > >>>> thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or > >>>> is it best to let the pro do it? > >>>> > >>>> TIA, > >>>> Bob > >>>> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > >>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >>>> > >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > >>>> > >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > >>>> > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >>> > >>> Healeys at autox.team.net > >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > >>> > >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ghaywood at ec.rr.com > >>> > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jimf at frakes-eng.com > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE > The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information that is privileged or confidential.? If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited.? If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number listed above or by return e-mail. > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:01:11 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 05:48:38 -0400 From: Bob Haskell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide Listers, Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, 100-Six and 3000. The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many years. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100-100-6-3000-/351903094555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp [http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/351903094555-0-1/s-l1000.jpg] "NEW" Original Austin Healey 100 100/6 3000 1906133204 | eBay www.ebay.com Austin Healey. Hot Rods. The carefully researched text contains the most complete production details available anywhere. or Midlife Classic Cars?. New or Used: This is a NEW BOOK. On orders of multiple books we will adjust for size and weight. | eBay! http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and-3000-Restorers-Guide-to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash=item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK&vxp=mtr [http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/351903102337-0-1/s-l1000.jpg] 1953-1968 Austin-Healey 100 and 3000 Restorers Guide to Originality 4 and 6 | eBay www.ebay.com 1953-1968 Austin-Healey 100 and 3000 Restorers Guide to Originality 4 and 6 | eBay Motors, Parts & Accessories, Manuals & Literature | eBay! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The-Restorers-Guide-to-100-100-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash=item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php The Central Indiana Chapter of the Austin-Healey Club of ... www.ciahc.org The 3000 Mk I Registry is attempting to document the current status of as many of the 13,650 Mk I BN7 and BT7's originally manufactured as possible. ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:34:29 -0700 From: goldengt To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" , Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank As is.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Michael MacLean Date: 4/10/17 12:01 AM (GMT-08:00) To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:43:06 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for at least 20 years). However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT' (the whole doc is in caps). So, if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin oxide layer on its surface anyway). http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf BILL HIRSCH ALCOHOL/ ETHANOL RESISTANT GAS TANK SEALER ... www.hirschauto.com what type of preparation is needed before using bill hirsch's sealer? if tank has sludge, gum, or varnish, it should first be cleaned with bill hirsch's Bob On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. Can I use it as is, or > should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? > Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:48:11 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide $1,999 and he won't even overnight it!!!??? On 4/10/2017 2:48 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, > 100-Six and 3000. The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. > But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many > years. > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100-100-6-3000-/351903094555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp [http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/351903094555-0-1/s-l1000.jpg] "NEW" Original Austin Healey 100 100/6 3000 1906133204 | eBay www.ebay.com Austin Healey. Hot Rods. The carefully researched text contains the most complete production details available anywhere. or Midlife Classic Cars?. New or Used: This is a NEW BOOK. On orders of multiple books we will adjust for size and weight. | eBay! > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and-3000-Restorers-Guide-to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash=item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK&vxp=mtr [http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/351903102337-0-1/s-l1000.jpg] 1953-1968 Austin-Healey 100 and 3000 Restorers Guide to Originality 4 and 6 | eBay www.ebay.com 1953-1968 Austin-Healey 100 and 3000 Restorers Guide to Originality 4 and 6 | eBay Motors, Parts & Accessories, Manuals & Literature | eBay! > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The-Restorers-Guide-to-100-100-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash=item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php The Central Indiana Chapter of the Austin-Healey Club of ... www.ciahc.org The 3000 Mk I Registry is attempting to document the current status of as many of the 13,650 Mk I BN7 and BT7's originally manufactured as possible. > > > ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 10:13:45 -0700 From: goldengt To: Bob Spidell , healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have 130000 miles on an aluminum tank. No sealer.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 4/10/17 7:43 AM (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for at least 20 years).? However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT'? (the whole doc is in caps).? So, if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin oxide layer on its surface anyway). http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf Bob On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 114 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Apr 10 16:37:17 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 18:37:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> Simon, No expert, but... Generator failed? Charge the battery and start the car. Confirm that the noise still occurs. Check the voltage across the battery. Should be above 13 volts if the generator and voltage regulator are working. Shut the engine off. Disconnect the fan belt and start the car and see if the noise is gone. Can't run it for very long - no water pump. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/10/2017 04:41 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > Hi, > > Advice from the experts required please:- > > (No just the experts. We can all have a go. > > So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- > > QUOTE:- > > Hi Uncle Simon! > ?????. I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well in the > morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after the gate... > And it would not start: as if the battery was flat: not much happening > when trying to start it! I spent 30 min checking the distributor, wires, > etc. all seemed normal. > I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which got the > car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found myself in a > traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried keeping the revs > up but it did not work well: the engine was making a weird noise, the > car had very little power and the revs did not want to go high: 4500 > maximum. I don't see what that engine problem has got to do with the > battery? > And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? > The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I pushed > the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did not go back. > I might do in a few days... > Any ideas about the problem!? > PH > > UNQUOTE > > Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it?s used quite frequently > and doesn?t get time to get charged. > > Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is a BJ8 > with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. > > I?m thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car?s in a basement > in Paris; I?m in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. > > Any thoughts would be much appreciated. > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From dcorning at ford.com Mon Apr 10 16:59:23 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 22:59:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] One Missing Screw - Car / Body Number Plate Unfortunately, I only have 3 of the 4 required screws to attach my ID plates. Does anyone know of a source to find one? If not, anyone have experience with using a replacement screw with the same look and dimensions? Best, Dan Corning -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2879.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 29996 bytes Desc: IMG_2879.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2872.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 51475 bytes Desc: IMG_2872.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2876.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 66204 bytes Desc: IMG_2876.JPG URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 10 17:00:55 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 16:00:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Great Passover References: To the Jews in the list. Have a wonderful Seder Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Apr 10 17:12:23 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 19:12:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door weather seal References: Save yourself the heartbreak of using furflex and go straight for Britstleflex: http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ I think Moss may also sell Bristleflex as well.. In order to get the Bristleflex from Martin Macgregor it's best to call him as he's not good with email responses and you may have to call a few times to get him, but it's worth it. Furflex is a pain to install and more annoyingly, will come loose from the curved areas. Bristleflex costs more, but it's a waste of money buying the furflex first and then having to buy the Bristleflex anyway. Rick Neville On Mon, Apr 10, 2017 at 4:16 PM, John and Judy Carter wrote: > I need to replace the door seals on my BJ8. I see that Furflex and > Bristleflex are used. Furflex is available from Moss. Where is Bristleflex > available and is it a better choice? > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > healeys-request at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Monday, April 10, 2017 2:00 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 114 > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Fwd: Re: BJ8 Windshield Replacement (George Haywood) > 2. Aluminum Gas Tank (Michael MacLean) > 3. Re: Something to go in your bookcase alongside your > Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide (Bob Haskell) > 4. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (goldengt) > 5. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (Bob Spidell) > 6. Re: Something to go in your bookcase alongside your > Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide (Bob Spidell) > 7. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (goldengt) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2017 17:58:06 -0400 > From: George Haywood > To: Jim Frakes > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: BJ8 Windshield Replacement > Message-ID: <85.96.21189.F6EAAE85 at cdptpa-omsmta03> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Jim,???? DON'T BUY THE CHEAPER GLASS!!!?????????????????????? > ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? > > On Apr 9, 2017 11:05 AM, Jim Frakes wrote: > > > > Thanks for info George. I was. contemplating the cheaper glass. > > Jim > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Apr 9, 2017, at 10:52 AM, George Haywood > wrote: > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > > > From: George Haywood > > > Date: Apr 9, 2017 8:58 AM > > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > > > To: Bob Spidell > > > Cc: > > > > > >> Hi Bob,? You don't have to remove anything but the inner frame to > replace just the glass.? Only take off the whole frame if you need to > replace the frame to shroud seal(THAT'S ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE CASE OF BEER > JOBS).? I think you have to remove the top outer frame and the screws on > the side pillars in the door openings on each side.? I think then the inner > frame will slide out.? I'm glad you got the Pilkington glass.? I got one of > the less expensive screens and it was not wide enough to seal from side to > side. After spending the extra $300 or so for the Pilkington the seals went > on better.? Take care,? George Haywood, '65 bj8 > > >> > > >>> On Apr 8, 2017 6:29 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > >>> > > >>> Now I'm confused ... it looks like the glass should just slide out > of > > >>> the inner frame; you're saying I have to remove the whole > > >>> kit-and-kaboodle, including the outer frame and frame-to-shroud > seal? > > >>> > > >>> Bob > > >>> > > >>> > > >>>> On 4/8/2017 3:18 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > > >>>> I've done it on a BJ8 and a BT7 windshield and it's not hard to do. > > >>>> Make sure that you have good corner brackets and the right length > > >>>> screws. The hardest part is pulling the lower seal thru the T slot. > > >>>> Use plenty of liquid dishwater soap and grab the end with vice > grips > > >>>> to pull it. > > >>>> > > >>>> Regards, > > >>>> > > >>>> Charlie Schott > > >>>> > > >>>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > > >>>> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 1:51 PM > > >>>> To: Healeys > > >>>> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > > >>>> > > >>>> Listers, > > >>>> > > >>>> Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing > seal--on a > > >>>> BJ8?? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# > > >>>> 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy > > >>>> enough for a ham-fisted DIYer).? I don't want to pull the whole > > >>>> thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done > this, or > > >>>> is it best to let the pro do it? > > >>>> > > >>>> TIA, > > >>>> Bob > > >>>> > > >>>> _______________________________________________ > > >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > www.team.net > www.team.net > The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time > volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network > connection, name ... > > > > >>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Team.Net Archives > www.team.net > Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest > updated. > > > > >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > >>>> > > >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net > > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > > >>>> > > >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: > > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > >>>> > > >>> > > >>> _______________________________________________ > > >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > www.team.net > www.team.net > The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time > volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network > connection, name ... > > > > >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Team.Net Archives > www.team.net > Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest > updated. > > > > >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > >>> > > >>> Healeys at autox.team.net > > >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net > > autox.team.net > To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys > Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send > email ... > > > > >>> > > >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ghaywood at ec.rr.com > > >>> > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/jimf at frakes-eng.com > > > > > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE > > The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of > the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain > information that is privileged or confidential.? If the reader of this > message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible > to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any > dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is > prohibited.? If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by > telephone at the number listed above or by return e-mail. > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:01:11 +0000 (UTC) > From: Michael MacLean > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank > Message-ID: <426674048.66609.1491807671938 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should > I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170410/ffa0f1cd/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 05:48:38 -0400 > From: Bob Haskell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your > Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide > Message-ID: <58EB54F6.6030509 at earthlink.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed > > Listers, > > Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, > 100-Six and 3000. The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. > But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many > years. > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100- > 100-6-3000-/351903094555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and- > 3000-Restorers-Guide-to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash= > item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK&vxp=mtr > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The- > Restorers-Guide-to-100-100-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash= > item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:34:29 -0700 > From: goldengt > To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" , Healey List > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > As is.Ken Freese? > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > -------- Original message --------From: Michael MacLean < > rrengineer.mike at att.net> Date: 4/10/17 12:01 AM (GMT-08:00) To: Healey > List Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank > I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should > I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170410/c760bb0c/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:43:06 -0700 > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank > Message-ID: <853da4aa-0427-7b5e-5aa8-ec699aa115eb at comcast.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed" > > My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two new > (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for at least > 20 years). However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ONLY BE USED > AS A LAST RESORT' (the whole doc is in caps). So, if a company that > has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't recommend it, I wouldn't > do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which should be more impervious to > rusting (I believe Al forms a thin oxide layer on its surface anyway). > > http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf > > Bob > > > On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. Can I use it as is, or > > should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? > > Mike MacLean > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170410/b82620a1/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:48:11 -0700 > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your > Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed > > $1,999 and he won't even overnight it!!!??? > > > On 4/10/2017 2:48 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > Listers, > > > > Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, > > 100-Six and 3000. The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. > > But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many > > years. > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100- > 100-6-3000-/351903094555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp > > > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and- > 3000-Restorers-Guide-to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash= > item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK&vxp=mtr > > > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The- > Restorers-Guide-to-100-100-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash= > item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > Bob Haskell > > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 10:13:45 -0700 > From: goldengt > To: Bob Spidell , healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I have 130000 miles on an aluminum tank. No sealer.Ken Freese? > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > -------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell > Date: 4/10/17 7:43 AM (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: > Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank > > My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two > new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for > at least 20 years).? However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD > ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT'? (the whole doc is in caps).? So, > if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't > recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which > should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin > oxide layer on its surface anyway). > http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf > > > Bob > > > > > > On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > > I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use > it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? > Mike MacLean > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: 20170410/75aa2003/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 114 > **************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jjkbj7 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 10 17:23:13 2017 From: jjkbj7 at yahoo.com (John Kuzman) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 23:23:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> Are you running an alternator or generator/voltage regulator? I am wondering if your charging system is shot and you were running on battery power only. On Monday, April 10, 2017 6:24 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: Hi,Advice from the experts required please:-(No just the experts. We can all have a go.So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:-QUOTE:-Hi Uncle Simon! ?????. I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well in the morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after the gate... And it would not start: as if the battery was flat: not much happening when trying to start it! I spent 30 min checking the distributor, wires, etc. all seemed normal. I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which got the car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found myself in a traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried keeping the revs up but it did not work well: the engine was making a weird noise, the car had very little power and the revs did not want to go high: 4500 maximum. I don't see what that engine problem has got to do with the battery? And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I pushed the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did not go back. I might do in a few days... Any ideas about the problem!? PH UNQUOTEWell, the battery may be new, but I suspect it?s used quite frequently and doesn?t get time to get charged.Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is a BJ8 with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil.I?m thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car?s in a basement in Paris; I?m in Devon, UK which makes life tricky.Any thoughts would be much appreciated.Simon ? ?_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Mon Apr 10 17:39:45 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 19:39:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door weather seal References: I got mine from http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ They will even send you a small sample to test the color mathing. I was very happy with their service, etc. John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John and Judy Carter Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 4:16 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door weather seal I need to replace the door seals on my BJ8. I see that Furflex and Bristleflex are used. Furflex is available from Moss. Where is Bristleflex available and is it a better choice? _____ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 114 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Fwd: Re: BJ8 Windshield Replacement (George Haywood) 2. Aluminum Gas Tank (Michael MacLean) 3. Re: Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide (Bob Haskell) 4. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (goldengt) 5. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (Bob Spidell) 6. Re: Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide (Bob Spidell) 7. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (goldengt) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2017 17:58:06 -0400 From: George Haywood To: Jim Frakes Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: BJ8 Windshield Replacement Jim,???? DON'T BUY THE CHEAPER GLASS!!!???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????? On Apr 9, 2017 11:05 AM, Jim Frakes wrote: > > Thanks for info George. I was. contemplating the cheaper glass. > Jim > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 9, 2017, at 10:52 AM, George Haywood wrote: > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > > From: George Haywood > > Date: Apr 9, 2017 8:58 AM > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > > To: Bob Spidell > > Cc: > > > >> Hi Bob,? You don't have to remove anything but the inner frame to replace just the glass.? Only take off the whole frame if you need to replace the frame to shroud seal(THAT'S ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE CASE OF BEER JOBS).? I think you have to remove the top outer frame and the screws on the side pillars in the door openings on each side.? I think then the inner frame will slide out.? I'm glad you got the Pilkington glass.? I got one of the less expensive screens and it was not wide enough to seal from side to side. After spending the extra $300 or so for the Pilkington the seals went on better.? Take care,? George Haywood, '65 bj8 > >> > >>> On Apr 8, 2017 6:29 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >>> > >>> Now I'm confused ... it looks like the glass should just slide out of > >>> the inner frame; you're saying I have to remove the whole > >>> kit-and-kaboodle, including the outer frame and frame-to-shroud seal? > >>> > >>> Bob > >>> > >>> > >>>> On 4/8/2017 3:18 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > >>>> I've done it on a BJ8 and a BT7 windshield and it's not hard to do. > >>>> Make sure that you have good corner brackets and the right length > >>>> screws. The hardest part is pulling the lower seal thru the T slot. > >>>> Use plenty of liquid dishwater soap and grab the end with vice grips > >>>> to pull it. > >>>> > >>>> Regards, > >>>> > >>>> Charlie Schott > >>>> > >>>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > >>>> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 1:51 PM > >>>> To: Healeys > >>>> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > >>>> > >>>> Listers, > >>>> > >>>> Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a > >>>> BJ8?? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# > >>>> 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy > >>>> enough for a ham-fisted DIYer).? I don't want to pull the whole > >>>> thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or > >>>> is it best to let the pro do it? > >>>> > >>>> TIA, > >>>> Bob > >>>> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > >>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >>>> > >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > >>>> > >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > >>>> > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... > >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. > >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >>> > >>> Healeys at autox.team.net > >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... > >>> > >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ghaywood at ec.rr.com > >>> > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jimf at frakes-eng.com > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE > The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information that is privileged or confidential.? If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited.? If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number listed above or by return e-mail. > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:01:11 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 05:48:38 -0400 From: Bob Haskell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide Listers, Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, 100-Six and 3000. The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many years. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100-100-6-3000-/351903094 555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and-3000-Restorers-Guide -to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash=item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK &vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The-Restorers-Guide-to-100-10 0-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash=item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:34:29 -0700 From: goldengt To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" , Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank As is.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Michael MacLean Date: 4/10/17 12:01 AM (GMT-08:00) To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:43:06 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for at least 20 years). However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT' (the whole doc is in caps). So, if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin oxide layer on its surface anyway). http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf Bob On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. Can I use it as is, or > should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? > Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:48:11 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide $1,999 and he won't even overnight it!!!??? On 4/10/2017 2:48 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, > 100-Six and 3000. The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. > But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many > years. > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100-100-6-3000-/351903094 555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and-3000-Restorers-Guide -to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash=item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK &vxp=mtr > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The-Restorers-Guide-to-100-10 0-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash=item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > > ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 10:13:45 -0700 From: goldengt To: Bob Spidell , healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have 130000 miles on an aluminum tank. No sealer.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 4/10/17 7:43 AM (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for at least 20 years).? However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT'? (the whole doc is in caps).? So, if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin oxide layer on its surface anyway). http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf Bob On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 114 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 10 18:06:02 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 17:06:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> I helped a friend jumpstart her Toyota (Corolla, I think; maybe a Camry--who cares ;). A jump started the car immediately, but it barely ran; couldn't even light the dash gauges. The alternator was shot; ergo, could be the dynamo on your nephew's car. Bob On 4/10/2017 1:41 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Hi, > > Advice from the experts required please:- > > (No just the experts. We can all have a go. > > So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- > > QUOTE:- > > Hi Uncle Simon! > ?????. I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well in > the morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after the > gate... And it would not start: as if the battery was flat: not much > happening when trying to start it! I spent 30 min checking the > distributor, wires, etc. all seemed normal. > I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which got > the car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found myself in > a traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried keeping the > revs up but it did not work well: the engine was making a weird noise, > the car had very little power and the revs did not want to go high: > 4500 maximum. I don't see what that engine problem has got to do with > the battery? > And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? > The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I pushed > the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did not go > back. I might do in a few days... > Any ideas about the problem!? > PH > > UNQUOTE > > Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it?s used quite frequently > and doesn?t get time to get charged. > > Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is a > BJ8 with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. > > I?m thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car?s in a > basement in Paris; I?m in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. > > Any thoughts would be much appreciated. > > Simon > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Mon Apr 10 18:28:45 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 00:28:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door weather seal References: Make sure Martin tells you how to install the Bristleflex. I followed his instructions carefully, and haven't had the problems that some people have...a lot of it has to do with the way it overlaps the aluminum striker plate trim, and the way the sill strip overlaps the Bristleflex. There's also a crucial little screw where the weatherstripping turns at the top...Martin will reveal all. Stephen, BJ8? From: Jean Caron To: John and Judy Carter ; "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 7:29 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 door weather seal Yes Bristleflex is a far better choice. You can obtain it directly from MacGregor Coactrimming from Dundas, Ontario, Canada. Owner is Martin MacGregor.His phone number is 905-627-4006The best way to contact him is by phone, if you ry through the website, it may be a while. Fantastic to deal with and Bristleflex is great stuff. Jean From: Healeys on behalf of John and Judy Carter Sent: April 10, 2017 8:16 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door weather seal?I need to replace the door seals on my BJ8. I see that Furflex and Bristleflex are used. Furflex is available from Moss. Where is Bristleflex available and is it a better choice? From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 114?Send Healeys mailing list submissions to ??????? healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??????? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... | or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??????? healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??????? healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: ?? 1. Re: Fwd: Re:? BJ8 Windshield Replacement (George Haywood) ?? 2. Aluminum Gas Tank (Michael MacLean) ?? 3. Re: Something to go in your bookcase alongside your ????? Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide (Bob Haskell) ?? 4. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (goldengt) ?? 5. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (Bob Spidell) ?? 6. Re: Something to go in your bookcase alongside your ????? Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide (Bob Spidell) ?? 7. Re: Aluminum Gas Tank (goldengt) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2017 17:58:06 -0400 From: George Haywood To: Jim Frakes Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:? BJ8 Windshield Replacement Jim,???? DON'T BUY THE CHEAPER GLASS!!!?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? On Apr 9, 2017 11:05 AM, Jim Frakes wrote: > > Thanks for info George. I was. contemplating the cheaper glass. > Jim > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Apr 9, 2017, at 10:52 AM, George Haywood wrote: > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > > From: George Haywood > > Date: Apr 9, 2017 8:58 AM > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > > To: Bob Spidell > > Cc: > > > >> Hi Bob,? You don't have to remove anything but the inner frame to replace just the glass.? Only take off the whole frame if you need to replace the frame to shroud seal(THAT'S ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE CASE OF BEER JOBS).? I think you have to remove the top outer frame and the screws on the side pillars in the door openings on each side.? I think then the inner frame will slide out.? I'm glad you got the Pilkington glass.? I got one of the less expensive screens and it was not wide enough to seal from side to side. After spending the extra $300 or so for the Pilkington the seals went on better.? Take care,? George Haywood, '65 bj8 > >> > >>> On Apr 8, 2017 6:29 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >>> > >>> Now I'm confused ... it looks like the glass should just slide out of > >>> the inner frame; you're saying I have to remove the whole > >>> kit-and-kaboodle, including the outer frame and frame-to-shroud seal? > >>> > >>> Bob > >>> > >>> > >>>> On 4/8/2017 3:18 PM, Charlie Schott wrote: > >>>> I've done it on a BJ8 and a BT7 windshield and it's not hard to do. > >>>> Make sure that you have good corner brackets and the right length > >>>> screws. The hardest part is pulling the lower seal thru the T slot. > >>>> Use plenty of liquid dishwater soap and grab the end with vice grips > >>>> to pull it. > >>>> > >>>> Regards, > >>>> > >>>> Charlie Schott > >>>> > >>>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > >>>> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 1:51 PM > >>>> To: Healeys > >>>> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield Replacement > >>>> > >>>> Listers, > >>>> > >>>> Anyone replaced the windshield--just the glass and enclosing seal--on a > >>>> BJ8?? I have new glass, would order the seal kit from Moss (part# > >>>> 682-028), and have a 'pro' do the installation (unless this is easy > >>>> enough for a ham-fisted DIYer).? I don't want to pull the whole > >>>> thing--wind wings and all--just the 'main' glass. Anybody done this, or > >>>> is it best to let the pro do it? > >>>> > >>>> TIA, > >>>> Bob > >>>> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html | www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... | > >>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive | Team.Net Archiveswww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. | > >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >>>> > >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... | > >>>> > >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > >>>> > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html | www.team.netwww.team.netThe Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... | > >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive | Team.Net Archiveswww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. | > >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >>> > >>> Healeys at autox.team.net > >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... | > >>> > >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ghaywood at ec.rr.com > >>> > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive | Team.Net Archiveswww.team.netTeam.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. | > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... | > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jimf at frakes-eng.com > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE > The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is addressed and it may contain information that is privileged or confidential.? If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient (or the employee or agent responsible to deliver it to the intended recipient), you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is prohibited.? If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify us by telephone at the number listed above or by return e-mail. > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:01:11 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 05:48:38 -0400 From: Bob Haskell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your ??????? Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide Listers, Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, 100-Six and 3000.? The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many years. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100-100-6-3000-/351903094555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp | | "NEW" Original Austin Healey 100 100/6 3000 1906133204 | eBaywww.ebay.comAustin Healey. Hot Rods. The carefully researched text contains the most complete production details available anywhere. or Midlife Classic Cars?. New or Used: This is a NEW BOOK. On orders of multiple books we will adjust for size and weight. | eBay! | http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and-3000-Restorers-Guide-to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash=item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK&vxp=mtr | | 1953-1968 Austin-Healey 100 and 3000 Restorers Guide to Originality 4 and 6 | eBaywww.ebay.com1953-1968 Austin-Healey 100 and 3000 Restorers Guide to Originality 4 and 6 | eBay Motors, Parts & Accessories, Manuals & Literature | eBay! | http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The-Restorers-Guide-to-100-100-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash=item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php | The Central Indiana Chapter of the Austin-Healey Club of ...www.ciahc.orgThe 3000 Mk I Registry is attempting to document the current status of as many of the 13,650 Mk I BN7 and BT7's originally manufactured as possible. | ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:34:29 -0700 From: goldengt To: "rrengineer.mike at att.net" , Healey List ??????? Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank As is.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Michael MacLean Date: 4/10/17? 12:01 AM? (GMT-08:00) To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it?Mike MacLean Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:43:06 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for at least 20 years).? However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT'? (the whole doc is in caps).? So, if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin oxide layer on its surface anyway). http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf | BILL HIRSCH ALCOHOL/ ETHANOL RESISTANT GAS TANK SEALER ...www.hirschauto.comwhat type of preparation is needed before using bill hirsch's sealer? if tank has sludge, gum, or varnish, it should first be cleaned with bill hirsch's | Bob On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2.? Can I use it as is, or > should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? > Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 07:48:11 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Something to go in your bookcase alongside your ??????? Anderson/Moment Restoration Guide $1,999 and he won't even overnight it!!!??? On 4/10/2017 2:48 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > Add Clausger's Original Austin-Healey : The Restorer's Guide to 100, > 100-Six and 3000.? The third link is for a seller with zero feedback. > But the first two are from Mid Life Books who has been around for many > years. > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Original-Austin-Healey-100-100-6-3000-/351903094555?hash=item51ef0f171b:g:ONMAAOSwal5YJfEp | | "NEW" Original Austin Healey 100 100/6 3000 1906133204 | eBaywww.ebay.comAustin Healey. Hot Rods. The carefully researched text contains the most complete production details available anywhere. or Midlife Classic Cars?. New or Used: This is a NEW BOOK. On orders of multiple books we will adjust for size and weight. | eBay! | > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1968-Austin-Healey-100-and-3000-Restorers-Guide-to-Originality-4-and-6-/351903102337?hash=item51ef0f3581:g:dGkAAOSwpDdVXlQK&vxp=mtr | | 1953-1968 Austin-Healey 100 and 3000 Restorers Guide to Originality 4 and 6 | eBaywww.ebay.com1953-1968 Austin-Healey 100 and 3000 Restorers Guide to Originality 4 and 6 | eBay Motors, Parts & Accessories, Manuals & Literature | eBay! | > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Austin-Healey-The-Restorers-Guide-to-100-100-Six-and-3000-by-Ander-/252808325753?hash=item3adc8cea79:g:pSYAAOSwa~BYOGfD > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php | The Central Indiana Chapter of the Austin-Healey Club of ...www.ciahc.orgThe 3000 Mk I Registry is attempting to document the current status of as many of the 13,650 Mk I BN7 and BT7's originally manufactured as possible. | > > > ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 10:13:45 -0700 From: goldengt To: Bob Spidell , healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank I have 130000 miles on an aluminum tank. No sealer.Ken Freese? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Bob Spidell Date: 4/10/17? 7:43 AM? (GMT-08:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Gas Tank ??? My immediate response would have been 'yes,' as I've sealed two ????? new (steel) tanks with no negative results (one's been sealed for ????? at least 20 years).? However, Hirsch's own FAQ says 'SEALER SHOULD ????? ONLY BE USED AS A LAST RESORT'? (the whole doc is in caps).? So, ????? if a company that has a vested interest in selling sealer doesn't ????? recommend it, I wouldn't do it again, esp. with an Al tank, which ????? should be more impervious to rusting (I believe Al forms a thin ????? oxide layer on its surface anyway). ??? http://www.hirschauto.com/sealer.pdf ??? ??? Bob ??? ??? ??? On 4/10/2017 12:01 AM, Michael MacLean ????? wrote: ??? ??? I have a new aluminum gas tank for my BN2. ?Can I use ????? it as is, or should I use gas tank sealer before I install it? ????? Mike MacLean ????? ??? ??? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys | Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Netautox.team.netTo see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... | ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 114 **************************************** _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Mon Apr 10 19:29:23 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 01:29:23 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Gil Rockwell Hey Gil, Give me a shout off the list when you have time. Thanks. Doug ____________________________________________________________ Brilliant Trick Melts Body Fat Overnight (Do This Tonight) Biblical Belly Breakthrough http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58ec31b0618df31b007a0st04duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjhco at att.net Mon Apr 10 19:34:30 2017 From: rjhco at att.net (Richard J. Hockert) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2017 20:34:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> <58EC091D.1070608@earthlink.net> 'Making a weird noise' is challenging to analyze. Flat battery 90% sure has been correctly diagnosed as charging system failure- check generator, regulator and wiring loom. Second issue of low revving - check 1. exhaust is free flowing 2. Fuel flow is not restricted 3. Distributor is advancing and Petronix has correct curve Best regards, Jim > On Apr 10, 2017, at 5:37 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > Simon, > > No expert, but... > > Generator failed? > > Charge the battery and start the car. Confirm that the noise still occurs. Check the voltage across the battery. Should be above 13 volts if the generator and voltage regulator are working. Shut the engine off. > > Disconnect the fan belt and start the car and see if the noise is gone. Can't run it for very long - no water pump. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >> On 04/10/2017 04:41 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: >> Hi, >> >> Advice from the experts required please:- >> >> (No just the experts. We can all have a go. >> >> So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- >> >> QUOTE:- >> >> Hi Uncle Simon! >> ?????. I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well in the >> morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after the gate... >> And it would not start: as if the battery was flat: not much happening >> when trying to start it! I spent 30 min checking the distributor, wires, >> etc. all seemed normal. >> I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which got the >> car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found myself in a >> traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried keeping the revs >> up but it did not work well: the engine was making a weird noise, the >> car had very little power and the revs did not want to go high: 4500 >> maximum. I don't see what that engine problem has got to do with the >> battery? >> And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? >> The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I pushed >> the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did not go back. >> I might do in a few days... >> Any ideas about the problem!? >> PH >> >> UNQUOTE >> >> Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it?s used quite frequently >> and doesn?t get time to get charged. >> >> Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is a BJ8 >> with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. >> >> I?m thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car?s in a basement >> in Paris; I?m in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. >> >> Any thoughts would be much appreciated. >> >> Simon >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjhco at att.net > From josef-eckert at t-online.de Mon Apr 10 23:48:47 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 07:48:47 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> Generator? Sorry, but is this the right car for your nephew using it in daily traffic having no clue what he is doing? I thought this already when read first posting to it. But now its even confirmed. Sooner or later he kills it. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" Datum: 2017-04-11T00:33:47+0200 Von: "Simon Lachlan" An: "'Healey List'" Hi, Advice from the experts required please:- (No just the experts. We can all have a go. So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- QUOTE:- Hi Uncle Simon! ?????. I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well in the morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after the gate... And it would not start: as if the battery was flat: not much happening when trying to start it! I spent 30 min checking the distributor, wires, etc. all seemed normal. I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which got the car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found myself in a traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried keeping the revs up but it did not work well: the engine was making a weird noise, the car had very little power and the revs did not want to go high: 4500 maximum. I don't see what that engine problem has got to do with the battery? And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I pushed the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did not go back. I might do in a few days... Any ideas about the problem!? PH UNQUOTE Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it?s used quite frequently and doesn?t get time to get charged. Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is a BJ8 with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. I?m thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car?s in a basement in Paris; I?m in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Simon ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Apr 11 01:55:35 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 08:55:35 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> <1491889727991.1784582.240dd244d3483f74188f55bca8e79d93c5bb9f8e@spica.telekom.de> You may be assured that when either my nephew or I require advice from anyone as to which car is suitable for whom, we shall ask for it. Until then, as I?ve previously asked you, let?s stick to the point and keep off-topic opinions to ourselves. Simon From: josef-eckert at t-online.de [mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de] Sent: 11 April 2017 06:49 To: Simon Lachlan ; Healeys, Forum Subject: AW: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" Generator? Sorry, but is this the right car for your nephew using it in daily traffic having no clue what he is doing? I thought this already when read first posting to it. But now its even confirmed. Sooner or later he kills it. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" Datum: 2017-04-11T00:33:47+0200 Hi, Advice from the experts required please:- (No just the experts. We can all have a go. So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- QUOTE:- Hi Uncle Simon! ?????. I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well in the morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after the gate... And it would not start: as if the battery was flat: not much happening when trying to start it! I spent 30 min checking the distributor, wires, etc. all seemed normal. I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which got the car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found myself in a traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried keeping the revs up but it did not work well: the engine was making a weird noise, the car had very little power and the revs did not want to go high: 4500 maximum. I don't see what that engine problem has got to do with the battery? And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I pushed the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did not go back. I might do in a few days... Any ideas about the problem!? PH UNQUOTE Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it?s used quite frequently and doesn?t get time to get charged. Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is a BJ8 with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. I?m thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car?s in a basement in Paris; I?m in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Simon ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Apr 11 02:12:04 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 09:12:04 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> Thanks for all the replies. Now, I had thought that we were facing two separate issues:- The battery was flat because of frequent short trips and then a series of attempts to start a recalcitrant engine. The engine was "making a weird noise" and generally misbehaving which led to more attempts to start and a flatter and flatter battery..the one thing leading to the other. Are you guys suggesting that the battery - still under guarantee - and/or the generator could cause the engine to stutter, under rev and go gutless? ie that, let's say, a fluctuating output from the generator could cause fluctuations in the ignition circuit? That would be contrary to what I'd expect. Generators fail...the lights go dim but the engine, if it dies at all, does so unspasmodically? (If that's even a word!). In my experience, it's more a question of the battery being flat as a pancake when you next try to start the car. And, of course, we haven't heard if the charging light has come on. What about that, PH? As I said, I was thinking about timing. Are those bolts on the distributor clamp tight enough? Anyhow, I would really appreciate some more guru time on this one. Thanks, Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 11 April 2017 01:06 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" I helped a friend jumpstart her Toyota (Corolla, I think; maybe a Camry--who cares ;). A jump started the car immediately, but it barely ran; couldn't even light the dash gauges. The alternator was shot; ergo, could be the dynamo on your nephew's car. Bob On 4/10/2017 1:41 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: Hi, Advice from the experts required please:- (No just the experts. We can all have a go. So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- QUOTE:- Hi Uncle Simon! ...... I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well in the morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after the gate... And it would not start: as if the battery was flat: not much happening when trying to start it! I spent 30 min checking the distributor, wires, etc. all seemed normal. I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which got the car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found myself in a traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried keeping the revs up but it did not work well: the engine was making a weird noise, the car had very little power and the revs did not want to go high: 4500 maximum. I don't see what that engine problem has got to do with the battery? And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I pushed the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did not go back. I might do in a few days... Any ideas about the problem!? PH UNQUOTE Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it's used quite frequently and doesn't get time to get charged. Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is a BJ8 with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. I'm thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car's in a basement in Paris; I'm in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Tue Apr 11 02:24:26 2017 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 02:24:26 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air. 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from back than. Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. It got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic hosted from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source of network traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such was not official university business and should be discontinued. So I moved the lists to a server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so simple and so cheap. I sent out a plea for funding and got a great response. Thanks to the U of U having a good relationship with Hewlett-Packard I was able to procure one of the first machines with over a 100 megahertz CPU, a 20 megabyte hard drive and something like 8 megs of RAM. All for about a mere $2,500 dollars. Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a scatterbrained procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for all these years, keeping it going. Team.Net is not as active as it was some years ago. The autocross list is basically dead now, but when I took the Killer Spit to the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over half the drivers there were subscribers to the autocross list. Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of automotive related web sites, forums and such available. But there are still many folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share their exploits, their frustrations, their lives with like minded individuals. Happy Birthday to us. mjb. From per at schoerner.se Tue Apr 11 04:47:52 2017 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 12:47:52 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> <005c01d2b29b$4e5d5460$eb17fd20$@homecall.co.uk> Simon The ignition needs some voltage to work properly. If the battery is flat, not only does it make the starter not working, it also makes the ignition not working. Someone suggested disconnect the fan belt, start the engine with the help of a healthy battery. If the strange noise is gone then you can be assured that your generator have some bad bearings, and is not able to provide the current needed to feed the ignition. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 11 apr. 2017 kl. 10:12 skrev Simon Lachlan : > > Thanks for all the replies. > Now, I had thought that we were facing two separate issues:- > The battery was flat because of frequent short trips and then a series of attempts to start a recalcitrant engine. > The engine was ?making a weird noise? and generally misbehaving which led to more attempts to start and a flatter and flatter battery??the one thing leading to the other. > Are you guys suggesting that the battery ? still under guarantee ? and/or the generator could cause the engine to stutter, under rev and go gutless? ie that, let?s say, a fluctuating output from the generator could cause fluctuations in the ignition circuit? That would be contrary to what I?d expect. Generators fail???the lights go dim but the engine, if it dies at all, does so unspasmodically? (If that?s even a word!). In my experience, it?s more a question of the battery being flat as a pancake when you next try to start the car. > And, of course, we haven?t heard if the charging light has come on. What about that, PH? > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Tue Apr 11 05:07:25 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 13:07:25 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> <005c01d2b29b$4e5d5460$eb17fd20$@homecall.co.uk> What do you expect as an answer? Generator not loading, batterie flat, generator bearing broken, engine sized?. Only a garage or one who knows what to do and checking it through can give a clear indication. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" Datum: 2017-04-11T12:34:18+0200 Von: "Simon Lachlan" An: "'Bob Spidell'" , "healeys at autox.team.net" Thanks for all the replies. Now, I had thought that we were facing two separate issues:- The battery was flat because of frequent short trips and then a series of attempts to start a recalcitrant engine. The engine was ?making a weird noise? and generally misbehaving which led to more attempts to start and a flatter and flatter battery??the one thing leading to the other. Are you guys suggesting that the battery ? still under guarantee ? and/or the generator could cause the engine to stutter, under rev and go gutless? ie that, let?s say, a fluctuating output from the generator could cause fluctuations in the ignition circuit? That would be contrary to what I?d expect. Generators fail???the lights go dim but the engine, if it dies at all, does so unspasmodically? (If that?s even a word!). In my experience, it?s more a question of the battery being flat as a pancake when you next try to start the car. And, of course, we haven?t heard if the charging light has come on. What about that, PH? As I said, I was thinking about timing. Are those bolts on the distributor clamp tight enough? Anyhow, I would really appreciate some more guru time on this one. Thanks, Simon From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 11 April 2017 01:06 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" I helped a friend jumpstart her Toyota (Corolla, I think; maybe a Camry--who cares ;). A jump started the car immediately, but it barely ran; couldn't even light the dash gauges. The alternator was shot; ergo, could be the dynamo on your nephew's car. Bob On 4/10/2017 1:41 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: Hi, Advice from the experts required please:- (No just the experts. We can all have a go. So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- QUOTE:- Hi Uncle Simon! ?????. I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well in the morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after the gate... And it would not start: as if the battery was flat: not much happening when trying to start it! I spent 30 min checking the distributor, wires, etc. all seemed normal. I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which got the car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found myself in a traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried keeping the revs up but it did not work well: the engine was making a weird noise, the car had very little power and the revs did not want to go high: 4500 maximum. I don't see what that engine problem has got to do with the battery? And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I pushed the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did not go back. I might do in a few days... Any ideas about the problem!? PH UNQUOTE Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it?s used quite frequently and doesn?t get time to get charged. Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is a BJ8 with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. I?m thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car?s in a basement in Paris; I?m in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 11 05:27:11 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 21:27:11 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! References: <4f86746f-d4c4-c305-f468-7d4350be552b@bradakis.com> Congratulations and thank you Mark! Really appreciate all your efforts to keep us all in touch through the list. You have created one of the most awesome resources for Healey owners globally. Thank you again. Sincerely Best Chris www.myaustinhealey.com > On 11 Apr. 2017, at 6:24 pm, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > > Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air. 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from back than. > > Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. It got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic hosted from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source of network traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such was not official university business and should be discontinued. So I moved the lists to a server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so simple and so cheap. I sent out a plea for funding and got a great response. Thanks to the U of U having a good relationship with Hewlett-Packard I was able to procure one of the first machines with over a 100 megahertz CPU, a 20 megabyte hard drive and something like 8 megs of RAM. All for about a mere $2,500 dollars. > > Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a scatterbrained procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for all these years, keeping it going. Team.Net is not as active as it was some years ago. The autocross list is basically dead now, but when I took the Killer Spit to the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over half the drivers there were subscribers to the autocross list. > > Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of automotive related web sites, forums and such available. But there are still many folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share their exploits, their frustrations, their lives with like minded individuals. > > Happy Birthday to us. > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Apr 11 05:40:59 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 13:40:59 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> <005c01d2b29b$4e5d5460$eb17fd20$@homecall.co.uk> If the battery is low and the alternator/generator is not charging enough may be the electronic ignition is not getting the necessary Volts it needs to function properly? What is really worrying is that the car is driven with a weird noise from the engine. If engines make weird noises that cannot be explained as to be harmless, STOP. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-4-2017 om 10:12 schreef Simon Lachlan: > > Thanks for all the replies. > > Now, I had thought that we were facing two separate issues:- > > The battery was flat because of frequent short trips and then a series > of attempts to start a recalcitrant engine. > > The engine was ?making a weird noise? and generally misbehaving which > led to more attempts to start and a flatter and flatter battery??the > one thing leading to the other. > > Are you guys suggesting that the battery ? still under guarantee ? > and/or the generator could cause the engine to stutter, under rev and > go gutless? ie that, let?s say, a fluctuating output from the > generator could cause fluctuations in the ignition circuit? That would > be contrary to what I?d expect. Generators fail???the lights go dim > but the engine, if it dies at all, does so unspasmodically? (If that?s > even a word!). In my experience, it?s more a question of the battery > being flat as a pancake when you next try to start the car. > > And, of course, we haven?t heard if the charging light has come on. > What about that, PH? > > As I said, I was thinking about timing. Are those bolts on the > distributor clamp tight enough? > > Anyhow, I would really appreciate some more guru time on this one. Thanks, > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* 11 April 2017 01:06 > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" > > I helped a friend jumpstart her Toyota (Corolla, I think; maybe a > Camry--who cares ;). A jump started the car immediately, but it > barely ran; couldn't even light the dash gauges. The alternator was > shot; ergo, could be the dynamo on your nephew's car. > > Bob > > On 4/10/2017 1:41 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Hi, > > Advice from the experts required please:- > > (No just the experts. We can all have a go. > > So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- > > QUOTE:- > > Hi Uncle Simon! > ?????. I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well > in the morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after > the gate... And it would not start: as if the battery was flat: > not much happening when trying to start it! I spent 30 min > checking the distributor, wires, etc. all seemed normal. > I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which > got the car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found > myself in a traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried > keeping the revs up but it did not work well: the engine was > making a weird noise, the car had very little power and the revs > did not want to go high: 4500 maximum. I don't see what that > engine problem has got to do with the battery? > And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? > The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I > pushed the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did > not go back. I might do in a few days... > Any ideas about the problem!? > PH > > UNQUOTE > > Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it?s used quite > frequently and doesn?t get time to get charged. > > Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is > a BJ8 with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. > > I?m thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car?s in a > basement in Paris; I?m in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. > > Any thoughts would be much appreciated. > > Simon > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums:http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From agrossman at pacific.net Tue Apr 11 06:33:39 2017 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 05:33:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! References: <4f86746f-d4c4-c305-f468-7d4350be552b@bradakis.com> Thank you Mark! Best, Alan On 4/11/2017 1:24 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the > air. 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has > been that long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before > then, with USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the > British cars and the Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim > Muller are some names from back than. > > Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. > It got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic > hosted from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source > of network traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such > was not official university business and should be discontinued. So I > moved the lists to a server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so > simple and so cheap. I sent out a plea for funding and got a great > response. Thanks to the U of U having a good relationship with > Hewlett-Packard I was able to procure one of the first machines with > over a 100 megahertz CPU, a 20 megabyte hard drive and something like > 8 megs of RAM. All for about a mere $2,500 dollars. > > Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still > taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a > scatterbrained procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for > all these years, keeping it going. Team.Net is not as active as it > was some years ago. The autocross list is basically dead now, but > when I took the Killer Spit to the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over > half the drivers there were subscribers to the autocross list. > > Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of > automotive related web sites, forums and such available. But there are > still many folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share > their exploits, their frustrations, their lives with like minded > individuals. > > Happy Birthday to us. > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net > > --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From jht66e at comcast.net Tue Apr 11 06:36:31 2017 From: jht66e at comcast.net (Jack Terrick) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 08:36:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> <005c01d2b29b$4e5d5460$eb17fd20$@homecall.co.uk> Sounds like a charging issue to me. If the dynamo isn't providing enough new smoke into the system the engine will eventually die, making all sorts of noises in its death throes. Simply have your nephew get it jump-started again and put a multi-meter on the battery to see if it's receiving a charge. Don't over-think it. Jack On 4/11/2017 4:12 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Thanks for all the replies. > > Now, I had thought that we were facing two separate issues:- > > The battery was flat because of frequent short trips and then a series > of attempts to start a recalcitrant engine. > > The engine was "making a weird noise" and generally misbehaving which > led to more attempts to start and a flatter and flatter > battery......the one thing leading to the other. > > Are you guys suggesting that the battery -- still under guarantee -- > and/or the generator could cause the engine to stutter, under rev and > go gutless? ie that, let's say, a fluctuating output from the > generator could cause fluctuations in the ignition circuit? That would > be contrary to what I'd expect. Generators fail.........the lights go > dim but the engine, if it dies at all, does so unspasmodically? (If > that's even a word!). In my experience, it's more a question of the > battery being flat as a pancake when you next try to start the car. > > And, of course, we haven't heard if the charging light has come on. > What about that, PH? > > As I said, I was thinking about timing. Are those bolts on the > distributor clamp tight enough? > > Anyhow, I would really appreciate some more guru time on this one. Thanks, > > Simon > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* 11 April 2017 01:06 > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" > > I helped a friend jumpstart her Toyota (Corolla, I think; maybe a > Camry--who cares ;). A jump started the car immediately, but it > barely ran; couldn't even light the dash gauges. The alternator was > shot; ergo, could be the dynamo on your nephew's car. > > Bob > > On 4/10/2017 1:41 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Hi, > > Advice from the experts required please:- > > (No just the experts. We can all have a go. > > So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- > > QUOTE:- > > Hi Uncle Simon! > ................ I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All > went well in the morning but on the way back the engine stopped > just after the gate... And it would not start: as if the battery > was flat: not much happening when trying to start it! I spent 30 > min checking the distributor, wires, etc. all seemed normal. > I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which > got the car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found > myself in a traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried > keeping the revs up but it did not work well: the engine was > making a weird noise, the car had very little power and the revs > did not want to go high: 4500 maximum. I don't see what that > engine problem has got to do with the battery? > And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? > The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I > pushed the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did > not go back. I might do in a few days... > Any ideas about the problem!? > PH > > UNQUOTE > > Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it's used quite > frequently and doesn't get time to get charged. > > Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is > a BJ8 with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. > > I'm thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car's in a > basement in Paris; I'm in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. > > Any thoughts would be much appreciated. > > Simon > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums:http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jht66e at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 11 07:06:28 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 06:06:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! References: <4f86746f-d4c4-c305-f468-7d4350be552b@bradakis.com> Thank you for providing this amazing resource and for your time and effort. Keep the shiny side up. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Apr 11, 2017 4:05 AM, "Mark J Bradakis" wrote: > Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air. 26 > years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. > In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET > rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the > Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from > back than. > > Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. It > got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic hosted > from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source of network > traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such was not official > university business and should be discontinued. So I moved the lists to a > server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so simple and so cheap. I > sent out a plea for funding and got a great response. Thanks to the U of U > having a good relationship with Hewlett-Packard I was able to procure one > of the first machines with over a 100 megahertz CPU, a 20 megabyte hard > drive and something like 8 megs of RAM. All for about a mere $2,500 > dollars. > > Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still > taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a scatterbrained > procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for all these years, > keeping it going. Team.Net is not as active as it was some years ago. The > autocross list is basically dead now, but when I took the Killer Spit to > the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over half the drivers there were > subscribers to the autocross list. > > Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of automotive > related web sites, forums and such available. But there are still many > folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share their exploits, > their frustrations, their lives with like minded individuals. > > Happy Birthday to us. > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Tue Apr 11 07:41:38 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 09:41:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Cheers! References: <4f86746f-d4c4-c305-f468-7d4350be552b@bradakis.com> Happy Birthday, Mark. It's been a great source of enjoyment, entertainment, knowledge and friendship for many years. Thanks, Rick Neville On Tue, Apr 11, 2017 at 4:24 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air. 26 > years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. > In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET > rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the > Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from > back than. > > Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. It > got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic hosted > from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source of network > traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such was not official > university business and should be discontinued. So I moved the lists to a > server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so simple and so cheap. I > sent out a plea for funding and got a great response. Thanks to the U of U > having a good relationship with Hewlett-Packard I was able to procure one > of the first machines with over a 100 megahertz CPU, a 20 megabyte hard > drive and something like 8 megs of RAM. All for about a mere $2,500 > dollars. > > Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still > taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a scatterbrained > procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for all these years, > keeping it going. Team.Net is not as active as it was some years ago. The > autocross list is basically dead now, but when I took the Killer Spit to > the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over half the drivers there were > subscribers to the autocross list. > > Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of automotive > related web sites, forums and such available. But there are still many > folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share their exploits, > their frustrations, their lives with like minded individuals. > > Happy Birthday to us. > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Apr 11 08:00:35 2017 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 10:00:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Matthew Randell Please contact me off list. thanks John Sims Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 11 08:35:26 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 07:35:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! References: <4f86746f-d4c4-c305-f468-7d4350be552b@bradakis.com> Cheers Mark! Thank you for doing such a great job!! Your efforts are truly appreciated. John Spaur -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2017 1:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net; Spridget Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air. 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from back than. Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. It got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic hosted from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source of network traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such was not official university business and should be discontinued. So I moved the lists to a server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so simple and so cheap. I sent out a plea for funding and got a great response. Thanks to the U of U having a good relationship with Hewlett-Packard I was able to procure one of the first machines with over a 100 megahertz CPU, a 20 megabyte hard drive and something like 8 megs of RAM. All for about a mere $2,500 dollars. Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a scatterbrained procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for all these years, keeping it going. Team.Net is not as active as it was some years ago. The autocross list is basically dead now, but when I took the Killer Spit to the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over half the drivers there were subscribers to the autocross list. Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of automotive related web sites, forums and such available. But there are still many folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share their exploits, their frustrations, their lives with like minded individuals. Happy Birthday to us. mjb. _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 11 08:58:52 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 07:58:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> If you have a long screw drive use it like a stethoscope and touch the metal end to the generator and the other end to your ear to listen for bearing noises. Also, with the engine off move the fan blades forward and back to see if you have play. The water pump bearings could be going and effect the generator fan belt tightness. Is the generator light on on your gauge? Honk your horn, it actually takes a big amp load. If its weak, that's another indicator of a flat battery. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Apr 10, 2017 at 1:41 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > Hi, > > Advice from the experts required please:- > > (No just the experts. We can all have a go. > > So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- > > QUOTE:- > > Hi Uncle Simon! > ?????. I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well in the > morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after the gate... And > it would not start: as if the battery was flat: not much happening when > trying to start it! I spent 30 min checking the distributor, wires, etc. > all seemed normal. > I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which got the > car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found myself in a traffic > jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried keeping the revs up but it > did not work well: the engine was making a weird noise, the car had very > little power and the revs did not want to go high: 4500 maximum. I don't > see what that engine problem has got to do with the battery? > And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? > The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I pushed the > car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did not go back. I might > do in a few days... > Any ideas about the problem!? > PH > > UNQUOTE > > Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it?s used quite frequently and > doesn?t get time to get charged. > > Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is a BJ8 > with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. > > I?m thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car?s in a basement > in Paris; I?m in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. > > Any thoughts would be much appreciated. > > Simon > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 11 09:00:16 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 08:00:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" References: <000001d2b23a$c4e3dac0$4eab9040$@homecall.co.uk> <005c01d2b29b$4e5d5460$eb17fd20$@homecall.co.uk> Here's what I surmised: Her alternator had failed/was failing and, of course, the battery was drained by powering the ECU, FI, gauges, lights, etc. When I jumped her car, it started immediately and ran fine until I disconnected the jumpstarter (one of the combination jumpstarter/air compressor/inverter things), then it barely ran and the (digital) gauges were very dim. This may be an issue only with an alternator since, I believe, they require some excitation of the rotor to produce current, whereas with a generator I think there is enough residual magnetism in the field coils to produce some output (possibly why they need to be 'polarized' when a car's ground is switched). Electrical gurus, please correct me if I'm wrong. People always want to blame the coil, possibly because it's about the easiest thing in the engine bay to change out. My BJ8's coil is the original AFAIK, and has nearly 200K miles on it and has been flawless (but I carry a spare, just in case). Have heard of problems with newer coils, esp. the 'Lucas Sport' variety, and have it on good authority--tech support at Moss--that the newer ones are Chinese crap* so if he's got one of those a new coil might be worth a shot. As someone here, or on the Forum mentioned, the aftermarket parts business for older cars is now a 'cottage industry,' without the QA effort that the OEMs practiced (or should have, at least). Also consider the (distributor) rotor but, in my experience they fail outright and dramatically (engine stops cold and won't restart, period). Bob * same source told me people are buying original, empty Lucas boxes and putting aftermarket crap parts in them. Beware. On 4/11/2017 1:12 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Thanks for all the replies. > > Now, I had thought that we were facing two separate issues:- > > The battery was flat because of frequent short trips and then a series > of attempts to start a recalcitrant engine. > > The engine was ?making a weird noise? and generally misbehaving which > led to more attempts to start and a flatter and flatter battery??the > one thing leading to the other. > > Are you guys suggesting that the battery ? still under guarantee ? > and/or the generator could cause the engine to stutter, under rev and > go gutless? ie that, let?s say, a fluctuating output from the > generator could cause fluctuations in the ignition circuit? That would > be contrary to what I?d expect. Generators fail???the lights go dim > but the engine, if it dies at all, does so unspasmodically? (If that?s > even a word!). In my experience, it?s more a question of the battery > being flat as a pancake when you next try to start the car. > > And, of course, we haven?t heard if the charging light has come on. > What about that, PH? > > As I said, I was thinking about timing. Are those bolts on the > distributor clamp tight enough? > > Anyhow, I would really appreciate some more guru time on this one. Thanks, > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* 11 April 2017 01:06 > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] "Engine making a weird noise" > > I helped a friend jumpstart her Toyota (Corolla, I think; maybe a > Camry--who cares ;). A jump started the car immediately, but it > barely ran; couldn't even light the dash gauges. The alternator was > shot; ergo, could be the dynamo on your nephew's car. > > Bob > > On 4/10/2017 1:41 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Hi, > > Advice from the experts required please:- > > (No just the experts. We can all have a go. > > So, I got this, below, from my nephew just now:- > > QUOTE:- > > Hi Uncle Simon! > ?????. I went to work with the healey on Saturday. All went well > in the morning but on the way back the engine stopped just after > the gate... And it would not start: as if the battery was flat: > not much happening when trying to start it! I spent 30 min > checking the distributor, wires, etc. all seemed normal. > I called the assistance. They came with a battery booster which > got the car started immediately. After 15min of driving I found > myself in a traffic jam. The car kept on wanting to stop. I tried > keeping the revs up but it did not work well: the engine was > making a weird noise, the car had very little power and the revs > did not want to go high: 4500 maximum. I don't see what that > engine problem has got to do with the battery? > And I can't explain how the new battery can be flat!? > The engine stopped in front of my garage. It would not start. I > pushed the car in it. And left. I was a bit fed up with it so did > not go back. I might do in a few days... > Any ideas about the problem!? > PH > > UNQUOTE > > Well, the battery may be new, but I suspect it?s used quite > frequently and doesn?t get time to get charged. > > Main problem is the lack of power and other related issues. Car is > a BJ8 with a very recently fitted Pertronix EI and coil. > > I?m thinking coil or coil connections or timing. The car?s in a > basement in Paris; I?m in Devon, UK which makes life tricky. > > Any thoughts would be much appreciated. > > Simon > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums:http://www.team.net/forums > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Tue Apr 11 10:08:01 2017 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 12:08:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! I will do just that and not only that, I will send off a monetary gift in honor of this momentous occasion. Thanks Mark for doing all you do. Thanks also for all of you out there contributing to this list and thanks for the laughs, the digs, the information and the unity behind keeping these old cars on the road. Here's to the list! Cheers!! Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 Lake Oroville, California, totally full. The day the dam started to fall apart! In a message dated 4/11/2017 6:34:00 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mark at bradakis.com writes: Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air. 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from back than. Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. It got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic hosted from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source of network traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such was not official university business and should be discontinued. So I moved the lists to a server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so simple and so cheap. I sent out a plea for funding and got a great response. Thanks to the U of U having a good relationship with Hewlett-Packard I was able to procure one of the first machines with over a 100 megahertz CPU, a 20 megabyte hard drive and something like 8 megs of RAM. All for about a mere $2,500 dollars. Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a scatterbrained procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for all these years, keeping it going. Team.Net is not as active as it was some years ago. The autocross list is basically dead now, but when I took the Killer Spit to the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over half the drivers there were subscribers to the autocross list. Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of automotive related web sites, forums and such available. But there are still many folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share their exploits, their frustrations, their lives with like minded individuals. Happy Birthday to us. mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3046.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 28177 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cpcooper at ymail.com Tue Apr 11 10:08:48 2017 From: cpcooper at ymail.com (Craig Cooper) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 16:08:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? References: <172453256.734596.1491926928134.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I'm finishing up on metalwork on a BN7 and replaced the outer sills with ones sourced through Moss, but I believe they came from AH spares. ?To make them fit my car, I had to section them by about 5/8" as the raised portion that goes under the door was at least that much longer than the door and desired door gap. ?Not a big deal to do, but has me scratching my head. ?The bottoms of my doors are a hair over 30-1/2", if anyone with a BN4 or BT7 and a tape measure wants to check theirs and report. ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 11 14:15:20 2017 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 20:15:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! References: <4f86746f-d4c4-c305-f468-7d4350be552b@bradakis.com> Happy Birthday Mark!?I've been on this list since 1994 or 94. It has been a great help over the years. Thanks for all you do?BobBT7AN5 From: Mark J Bradakis To: "healeys at autox.team.net" ; Spridget Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2017 5:54 AM Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! Raise a glass to Team.Net!? April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air.? 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the Autox lists.? Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from back then.. Happy Birthday to us. mjb. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Apr 11 15:51:58 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 14:51:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! References: <4f86746f-d4c4-c305-f468-7d4350be552b@bradakis.com> Thank you for your service to the hobby. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2017 1:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net; Spridget Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air. 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from back than. Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. It got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic hosted from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source of network traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such was not official university business and should be discontinued. So I moved the lists to a server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so simple and so cheap. I sent out a plea for funding and got a great response. Thanks to the U of U having a good relationship with Hewlett-Packard I was able to procure one of the first machines with over a 100 megahertz CPU, a 20 megabyte hard drive and something like 8 megs of RAM. All for about a mere $2,500 dollars. Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a scatterbrained procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for all these years, keeping it going. Team.Net is not as active as it was some years ago. The autocross list is basically dead now, but when I took the Killer Spit to the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over half the drivers there were subscribers to the autocross list. Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of automotive related web sites, forums and such available. But there are still many folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share their exploits, their frustrations, their lives with like minded individuals. Happy Birthday to us. mjb. _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From tld6008 at mchsi.com Tue Apr 11 18:34:06 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 20:34:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey magazine Anyone else think the latest issue is printed on rice paper? Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rianhey at btinternet.com Wed Apr 12 03:01:41 2017 From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey) Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 10:01:41 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? References: <172453256.734596.1491926928134.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <172453256.734596.1491926928134@mail.yahoo.com> Your sills sound like normal UK replacement ones - none of them fit, and many are curved so they do not give an even door to sill gap. I had to cut, weld and lead mine to make the raised portion line up with the door, and a friend just gave up with UK sourced ones and ordered two from Kilmartin which were much better. _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Cooper Sent: 11 April 2017 17:09 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? I'm finishing up on metalwork on a BN7 and replaced the outer sills with ones sourced through Moss, but I believe they came from AH spares. To make them fit my car, I had to section them by about 5/8" as the raised portion that goes under the door was at least that much longer than the door and desired door gap. Not a big deal to do, but has me scratching my head. The bottoms of my doors are a hair over 30-1/2", if anyone with a BN4 or BT7 and a tape measure wants to check theirs and report. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Apr 12 06:30:35 2017 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 06:30:35 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! References: <4f86746f-d4c4-c305-f468-7d4350be552b@bradakis.com> <754605003.909311.1491941720225@mail.yahoo.com> well when it's still snowing in April in Utah.... good job Mark! Dave P no Healey since divorce... On 4/11/2017 2:15 PM, Bob Brown wrote: > Happy Birthday Mark! > I've been on this list since 1994 or 94. It has been a great help over > the years. > > Thanks for all you do > Bob > BT7 > AN5 > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Mark J Bradakis > *To:* "healeys at autox.team.net" ; Spridget > > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 11, 2017 5:54 AM > *Subject:* [Healeys] Cheers! > > Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air. > 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that > long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with > USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars > and the Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some > names from back then. > . > > Happy Birthday to us. > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/blkbt7 at yahoo.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 12 08:12:25 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 07:12:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey magazine References: <492529433.17375369.1491957246774.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> Yeah, I noticed that too. Assumed it was just another 'efficiency' in our modern world. Bob On 4/11/2017 5:34 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote: > Anyone else think the latest issue is printed on rice paper? > > > Tim Davis BN7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eschulz at frontiernet.net Wed Apr 12 09:34:51 2017 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 11:34:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey magazine References: <492529433.17375369.1491957246774.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> What a change from the last issue! Elton On 4/11/2017 8:34 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote: > Anyone else think the latest issue is printed on rice paper? > > > Tim Davis BN7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Wed Apr 12 11:51:27 2017 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (J. Scott Morris) Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 17:51:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! References: <4f86746f-d4c4-c305-f468-7d4350be552b@bradakis.com> Mark, thank you for all you do.? I have been here since sometime in 1998 and have quite enjoyed the Healey List. ?--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada?????????? - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Tuesday, April 11, 2017 7:01 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: Raise a glass to Team.Net!? April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air.? 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the Autox lists.? Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from back than. Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. It got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic hosted from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source of network traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such was not official university business and should be discontinued. So I moved the lists to a server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so simple and so cheap. I sent out a plea for funding and got a great response. Thanks to the U of U having a good relationship with Hewlett-Packard I was able to procure one of the first machines with over a 100 megahertz CPU, a 20 megabyte hard drive and something like 8 megs of RAM.? All for about a mere $2,500 dollars. Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a scatterbrained procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for all these years, keeping it going.? Team.Net is not as active as it was some years ago.? The autocross list is basically dead now, but when I took the Killer Spit to the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over half the drivers there were subscribers to the autocross list. Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of automotive related web sites, forums and such available. But there are still many folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share their exploits, their frustrations, their lives with like minded individuals. Happy Birthday to us. mjb. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Wed Apr 12 14:18:57 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 20:18:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? References: <172453256.734596.1491926928134.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <172453256.734596.1491926928134@mail.yahoo.com>, I got rocker panels from British Car Specialists. They supply Kilmartin parts. These have the correct curvature in the vertical and lateral dimensions to allow the proper visual sweep from wheel well to wheel well. Most replacements are made on a brake and as such the panels are dead straight and don't look right. As far as other dimensions I found significant differences from side to side on my car and I'm not sure if those are a result of original production or a later rebuild. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Ian Hey Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 9:01:41 AM To: 'Craig Cooper'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? Your sills sound like normal UK replacement ones ? none of them fit, and many are curved so they do not give an even door to sill gap. I had to cut, weld and lead mine to make the raised portion line up with the door, and a friend just gave up with UK sourced ones and ordered two from Kilmartin which were much better. ________________________________ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Cooper Sent: 11 April 2017 17:09 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? I'm finishing up on metalwork on a BN7 and replaced the outer sills with ones sourced through Moss, but I believe they came from AH spares. To make them fit my car, I had to section them by about 5/8" as the raised portion that goes under the door was at least that much longer than the door and desired door gap. Not a big deal to do, but has me scratching my head. The bottoms of my doors are a hair over 30-1/2", if anyone with a BN4 or BT7 and a tape measure wants to check theirs and report. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Wed Apr 12 16:35:44 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 22:35:44 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey magazine References: <492529433.17375369.1491957246774.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> Tim, Well I would not know if it is in fact rice paper but it is indeed not as glossy as what the cover previously was. Given the fact that printing cost has increased, mailing is up as well and the fact that is affecting most Clubs these days, declining membership, something had to give. While not wanting to increase the dues, the Board of Directors were left with few choices and this was one of the least painful. When one looks at the cost of membership in most other areas of life from golfing to attending events etc. the membership dues in any car clubs is extremely reasonable. I personally believe that membership in any Club where a magazine is published, being monthly , bi-monthly or quarterly should start at around $110.00 a year given what is delivered to the members. With $45.00 dues, the Board has to sometimes make difficult decisions that affect the delivery of their services. Jean Caron Historian AHCUSA ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Tim Davis BN7 Sent: April 12, 2017 12:34 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey magazine Anyone else think the latest issue is printed on rice paper? Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Wed Apr 12 22:37:25 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 04:37:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Austin Healey magazine References: <492529433.17375369.1491957246774.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com>, Tim, Well I would not know if it is in fact rice paper but it is indeed not as glossy as what the cover previously was. Given the fact that printing cost has increased, mailing is up as well and the reality facing most Clubs these days, declining membership, something had to give. While not wanting to increase the dues, the Board of Directors were left with few choices and this was one of the least painful. When one looks at the cost of membership in most other areas of life from golfing to attending events etc. the membership dues in any car clubs is extremely reasonable. I personally believe that membership in any Club where a magazine is published, being monthly, bi-monthly or quarterly should start at around $110.00 a year given what is delivered to the members. With $45.00 dues, the Board has to sometimes make difficult decisions that affect the delivery of their services. Jean Caron Historian AHCUSA ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Tim Davis BN7 Sent: April 12, 2017 12:34 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey magazine Anyone else think the latest issue is printed on rice paper? Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Thu Apr 13 04:05:32 2017 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 11:05:32 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Login to Healey.Org failing again Sheesh!! Just got the latest AH magazine from AHC of USA which has a flyer tacky stuck to the cover (why do they do that!!) informing me that my membership is due to expire at the end of this month. I'm sure I've already renewed and have a note in my Outlook calendar advising I'm good until February '18. Just tried to login to the website to double check my account and it's on the fritz again. Password is not accepted despite me knowing exactly what it is, and the forgotten password page has a broken link to 'Captcha', so that is screwed too. Frustrating as hell. AlanB cid:image001.png at 01D18856.FC90FB60 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 14962 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Thu Apr 13 07:40:29 2017 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 09:40:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Austin Healey magazine Thanks for your response.IMO if I am subscribing to a magazine that I will ultimately collect and possible refer to I need the cover to be of a heavier weight paper than the contents. The cover is supposed to be protecting the contents. The latest issue feels like one of the inserts you throw away from the Sunday paper.I'm sure money could be saved by not publishing the calendar or the membership registry. I will definitely reconsider continuing my membership. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Jean Caron To: Tim Davis BN7 , AH Mail List Sent: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 00:37:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Fw: Austin Healey magazine Tim, Well I would not know if it is in fact rice paper but it is indeed not as glossy as what the cover previously was. Given the fact that printing cost has increased, mailing is up as well and the reality facing most Clubs these days, declining membership, something had to give. While not wanting to increase the dues, the Board of Directors were left with few choices and this was one of the least painful. When one looks at the cost of membership in most other areas of life from golfing to attending events etc. the membership dues in any car clubs is extremely reasonable. I personally believe that membership in any Club where a magazine is published, being monthly, bi-monthly or quarterly should start at around $110.00 a year given what is delivered to the members. With $45.00 dues, the Board has to sometimes make difficult decisions that affect the delivery of their services. Jean CaronHistorian AHCUSA From: Healeys on behalf of Tim Davis BN7 Sent: April 12, 2017 12:34 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey magazine Anyone else think the latest issue is printed on rice paper? Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Apr 13 10:00:13 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 09:00:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Not LBC, but cool automotive stuff https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_aoJDpkjmM Forest find VW bus resurrected in the woods worth a watch Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Apr 13 10:12:02 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 09:12:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? References: <172453256.734596.1491926928134.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <172453256.734596.1491926928134@mail.yahoo.com> The reason our cars have body #s stamped on most parts is because they had to match parts coming from the Jensen workshop had a variation in build sizes. I have a bonnet from another 100-6 and it has never quite fit right. Its a bit short. I have heard that right to left doors are of different lengths. Ever seen photos of the production line? These were hand built "mass" produced cars Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Wed, Apr 12, 2017 at 1:18 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > I got rocker panels from British Car Specialists. They supply Kilmartin > parts. These have the correct curvature in the vertical and lateral > dimensions to allow the proper visual sweep from wheel well to wheel well. > Most replacements are made on a brake and as such the panels are dead > straight and don't look right. As far as other dimensions I found > significant differences from side to side on my car and I'm not sure if > those are a result of original production or a later rebuild. > > > Bill Lawrence > > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Ian Hey < > rianhey at btinternet.com> > *Sent:* Wednesday, April 12, 2017 9:01:41 AM > *To:* 'Craig Cooper'; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? > > > Your sills sound like normal UK replacement ones ? none of them fit, and > many are curved so they do not give an even door to sill gap. I had to > cut, weld and lead mine to make the raised portion line up with the door, > and a friend just gave up with UK sourced ones and ordered two from > Kilmartin which were much better. > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Craig > Cooper > *Sent:* 11 April 2017 17:09 > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? > > > > > > > > > > I'm finishing up on metalwork on a BN7 and replaced the outer sills with > ones sourced through Moss, but I believe they came from AH spares. To make > them fit my car, I had to section them by about 5/8" as the raised portion > that goes under the door was at least that much longer than the door and > desired door gap. Not a big deal to do, but has me scratching my head. > The bottoms of my doors are a hair over 30-1/2", if anyone with a BN4 or > BT7 and a tape measure wants to check theirs and report. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 13 10:58:20 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 09:58:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Austin Healey magazine References: <1445940863.20579039.1492090829535.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> With the higher costs every year I ask why do we have two National Clubs both producing a Austin Healey Magazine. You would think that the time will eventually come that they will merge and become one. I know that this has come up many times over the years and has always caused hard feelings. But after all isnt it just all about the cars and what we do with our cars. David Nock From: Tim Davis BN7 Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2017 6:40 AM To: Jean Caron Cc: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Austin Healey magazine Thanks for your response IMO if I am subscribing to a magazine that I will ultimately collect and possible refer to I need the cover to be of a heavier weight paper than the contents. The cover is supposed to be protecting the contents. The latest issue feels like one of the inserts you throw away from the Sunday paper. I'm sure money could be saved by not publishing the calendar or the membership registry. I will definitely reconsider continuing my membership. Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: Jean Caron To: Tim Davis BN7 , AH Mail List Sent: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 00:37:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Fw: Austin Healey magazine Tim, Well I would not know if it is in fact rice paper but it is indeed not as glossy as what the cover previously was. Given the fact that printing cost has increased, mailing is up as well and the reality facing most Clubs these days, declining membership, something had to give. While not wanting to increase the dues, the Board of Directors were left with few choices and this was one of the least painful. When one looks at the cost of membership in most other areas of life from golfing to attending events etc. the membership dues in any car clubs is extremely reasonable. I personally believe that membership in any Club where a magazine is published, being monthly, bi-monthly or quarterly should start at around $110.00 a year given what is delivered to the members. With $45.00 dues, the Board has to sometimes make difficult decisions that affect the delivery of their services. Jean Caron Historian AHCUSA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Healeys on behalf of Tim Davis BN7 Sent: April 12, 2017 12:34 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey magazine Anyone else think the latest issue is printed on rice paper? Tim Davis BN7 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.brouillette at comcast.net Thu Apr 13 11:32:56 2017 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (mike brouillette) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 13:32:56 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What's the going price for a BT7 hardtop? Folks, What are people seeing for a price for a restorable BT7 hardtop? Back window is there with all mounting hardware, all rubber and headliner needs replacing. Mike B 59 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Apr 13 13:45:06 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 15:45:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? References: <172453256.734596.1491926928134.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <172453256.734596.1491926928134@mail.yahoo.com> If the question is, does a BN4 4 seater and a BN6 two seater have the same doors The answer is yes. Same applies for a BN7 and a BT7. In theory the doors are the same and the measurements should not vary more than 1/8 inch. A BJ7 or 8 door is close to the 4 seater BN4 and BT7, though usually a bit longer. About a fat 1/16th. There is a 2 inch difference between the BN1/2 doors and the BN4/6/7 doors. This is measuring from the back edge of the door gap at the windshield post to the gap at the rear of the door along the cockpit molding. That is the change point that I am aware of. Patrick could offer info for the BN3 model. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: i erbs Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2017 3:15 PM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? The reason our cars have body #s stamped on most parts is because they had to match parts coming from the Jensen workshop had a variation in build sizes. I have a bonnet from another 100-6 and it has never quite fit right. Its a bit short.? I have heard that right to left doors are of different lengths. Ever seen photos of the production line? These were hand built "mass" produced cars Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? On Wed, Apr 12, 2017 at 1:18 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: I got rocker panels from British Car Specialists. They supply Kilmartin parts. These have the correct curvature in the vertical and lateral dimensions to allow the proper visual?sweep from wheel well to wheel well. Most replacements are made on a brake and as such the panels are dead straight and don't look right. As far as other dimensions I found significant differences from side to side on my car and I'm not sure if those are a result of original production or a later rebuild. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 From: Healeys on behalf of Ian Hey Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 9:01:41 AM To: 'Craig Cooper'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? ? Your sills sound like normal UK replacement ones ? none of them fit, and many are curved so they do not give an even door to sill gap.? I had to cut, weld and lead mine to make the raised portion line up with the door, and a friend just gave up with UK sourced ones and ordered two from Kilmartin which were much better. ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Cooper Sent: 11 April 2017 17:09 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? I'm finishing up on metalwork on a BN7 and replaced the outer sills with ones sourced through Moss, but I believe they came from AH spares.? To make them fit my car, I had to section them by about 5/8" as the raised portion that goes under the door was at least that much longer than the door and desired door gap.? Not a big deal to do, but has me scratching my head.? The bottoms of my doors are a hair over 30-1/2", if anyone with a BN4 or BT7 and a tape measure wants to check theirs and report. ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 3EE1D5CD1ACF4A68BD41640E1AC41637.png Type: image/png Size: 158 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BE07F92996464A049B1E208D1360BAFA.png Type: image/png Size: 158 bytes Desc: not available URL: From amalin at mac.com Thu Apr 13 15:21:55 2017 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 17:21:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door weather seal References: <982632747.152915.1491870525760@mail.yahoo.com> Stephen, I?ve reformatted your instructions into a PDF and am sending it to John Carter and the List. Thanks again. Al Malin Tricarb -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BristleflexInstructions.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1128833 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Apr 13 16:19:47 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 18:19:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What's the going price for a BT7 hardtop? References: <018c01d2b47b$fdeab440$f9c01cc0$@comcast.net> Prices, both asking and realized, are all over the place. There is one on Ebay that has run for a while and has mustered about $720 on one run but did not make the reserve. They cost a bunch to restore properly so the cost to acquire the basic bits has to be kept as low as possible. Seems like several hardtops have been canibolized lately and the various parts sold or auctioned off. Then the other question you have to ask is, How much more does a BN4 / BT7 sell for if it has a hardtop on it at time of sale? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: mike brouillette Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2017 5:11 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] What's the going price for a BT7 hardtop? Folks, ??????????? What are people seeing for a price for a restorable BT7 hardtop?? Back window is there with all mounting hardware, all rubber and headliner needs replacing. Mike B 59 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Apr 13 16:56:27 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 18:56:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---Speedometer disassembly I need to pull the guts out of my speedo. Have removed (screws, etc and the push-counter end) Trying to get the face off it appears you need to remove the needle. How do you remove the needle (do you pry it off)---this will allow removal of the face so you can get the guts out. thanks tom From m.brouillette at comcast.net Thu Apr 13 17:15:47 2017 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (mike brouillette) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 19:15:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] What's the going price for a Bn7 hardtop? Hi Scott, According to your sheet, it isn?t a BT7 hardtop I have but a BN7 top. The serial number is 6/0858140. If anyone is interested, it is in NH a I will be selling it. From: J. Scott Morris [mailto:jstmorris at yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2017 6:55 PM To: mike brouillette ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] What's the going price for a BT7 hardtop? The attached file may help give you an idea of what prices the roadster hardtop goes for. Hope it helps. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives Folks, What are people seeing for a price for a restorable BT7 hardtop? Back window is there with all mounting hardware, all rubber and headliner needs replacing. Mike B 59 BT7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Apr 13 19:12:12 2017 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 18:12:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Michelin XAS 180HR15 Anyone on the List running these on their car, specifically a 100 (BN1)? Contact me off list. Cheers, Curt cnaarndt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eschulz at frontiernet.net Thu Apr 13 21:04:48 2017 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 23:04:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 door weather seal References: <982632747.152915.1491870525760@mail.yahoo.com> <11D26EEF-A36E-4C2D-85AC-DB90DF238219@mac.com> Good Writeup, Al. Thanks. Elton On 4/13/2017 5:21 PM, Al Malin wrote: > Stephen, > > I've reformatted your instructions into a PDF and am sending it to John Carter and the List. Thanks again. > > Al Malin > Tricarb > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 13 21:14:52 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 20:14:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---Speedometer disassembly References: <20170413185627.RGLJW.15771.root@pamxwww05-z01> Hi Tom, Yes, the needle is a press fit on the spindle. Best to lever off carefully, with a lever on each side under the spindle base, but you can just carefully pinch the base and lift it off. Just be sure to pull evenly so you don't bend the spindle. The needle stop is spring loaded; press it in, let the needle drop past and note where the needle sits in normal (vertical) position if you want to retain the existing calibration (should be close to a tiny white dot in the '-5MPH' position). You'll also need to disassemble the tripmeter reset shaft to finagle the guts out of the case (it can be done). Attached is the canonical 'how to' for Smith's speedos. Bob On 4/13/2017 3:56 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > I need to pull the guts out of my speedo. Have removed (screws, etc and the push-counter end) Trying to get the face off it appears you need to remove the needle. How do you remove the needle (do you pry it off)---this will allow removal of the face so you can get the guts out. > > thanks > tom > > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Speedo_Repair.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1368519 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eschulz at frontiernet.net Thu Apr 13 21:18:21 2017 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 23:18:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---Speedometer disassembly References: <20170413185627.RGLJW.15771.root@pamxwww05-z01> It should pull off by grabbing the base of the needle. If not, you can try twisting it, but be sure to hold the guts from a lamp hole in the back to keep them from turning. If that doesn't work, some people have actually fabbed a puller in which the legs of the puller sit in the two screw holes used for holding the speedo face. Anthony Rhodes has a good writeup on repairing Smiths speedos. I don't have a link for you, but I think you can get it by googleing it. Also John Sims' site may have a link to it. Good luck, Elton On 4/13/2017 6:56 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > I need to pull the guts out of my speedo. Have removed (screws, etc and the push-counter end) Trying to get the face off it appears you need to remove the needle. How do you remove the needle (do you pry it off)---this will allow removal of the face so you can get the guts out. > > thanks > tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > > From bighealey3k at aim.com Thu Apr 13 21:48:59 2017 From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 23:48:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Le Mans 1955 disaster I just came across this documentary of the 1955 Le Mans disastrous crash involving Lance Macklin's Austin Healey 100S. His Healey is seen at the 41:09 and 42:20 minute marks. A montage of stills shows the impact of Pierre Levegh's Mercedes-Benz (50:00 min. mark) on the back of Lance Macklin's Healey and launches the Mercedes into the air and subsequently into the crowd. Very sad event in racing. Still a lot of finger pointing. The footage was captured by a spectator (who was also injured at the time) and hidden for 55 years. If anyone has seen this, it is worth another look. Her is the youtube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3iAkmwyEMA From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Thu Apr 13 22:46:29 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2017 16:46:29 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---Speedometer disassembly References: <20170413185627.RGLJW.15771.root@pamxwww05-z01> Tom, Look through the illumination bulb hole and you'll see the aluminum drag cup which turns when you turn the needle. Put your little finger in through the hole and touch the drag cup so it can't move then wiggle the needle off. You don't need anything to pry it off. Andy. On 4/14/17, Tom Felts wrote: > I need to pull the guts out of my speedo. Have removed (screws, etc and the > push-counter end) Trying to get the face off it appears you need to remove > the needle. How do you remove the needle (do you pry it off)---this will > allow removal of the face so you can get the guts out. > > thanks > tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austinhealeyslist at gmail.com > > From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 13 23:41:21 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 22:41:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Michelin XAS 180HR15 References: I have them on my ?62 BT7. Great ride. The original tire was bias ply. The current version was reengineered into a radial. My only complaint is that it designed to use a tube when it could have been easily manufactured for a tubeless rim. Perhaps the have changed the design, I don?t know. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curtis Arndt Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2017 6:12 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Michelin XAS 180HR15 Anyone on the List running these on their car, specifically a 100 (BN1)? Contact me off list. Cheers, Curt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 14 00:11:23 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2017 23:11:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---Speedometer disassembly References: <20170413185627.RGLJW.15771.root@pamxwww05-z01> You have to pull it straight off. Not for the faint of heart. John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2017 3:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---Speedometer disassembly I need to pull the guts out of my speedo. Have removed (screws, etc and the push-counter end) Trying to get the face off it appears you need to remove the needle. How do you remove the needle (do you pry it off)---this will allow removal of the face so you can get the guts out. thanks tom _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From dwflagg at juno.com Fri Apr 14 05:56:16 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2017 11:56:16 GMT Subject: [Healeys] NOS Exhaust System If anyone is looking for an NOS BJ8 exhaust system to complete a concours restoration, please contact me off the list. Thanks. Cheers, Doug ____________________________________________________________ Brilliant Trick Melts Body Fat Overnight (Do This Tonight) Biblical Belly Breakthrough http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58f0b9131318e39125eedst01duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Apr 14 06:25:11 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2017 22:25:11 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? References: <172453256.734596.1491926928134.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <172453256.734596.1491926928134@mail.yahoo.com> <20170413234254.D9B8C2588A18@autox.team.net> Greetings Yes Perry I can tell you about the BN3. As the car started life as very early 100 it has a 100 chassis and body. The six-cylinder engine/gearbox was fitted in 1954, but Geoff Price (ex DHMC) said that it was a pre-production chassis. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeyguy at aol.com Sent: Friday, 14 April 2017 5:45 AM To: i erbs; WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? If the question is, does a BN4 4 seater and a BN6 two seater have the same doors The answer is yes. Same applies for a BN7 and a BT7. In theory the doors are the same and the measurements should not vary more than 1/8 inch. A BJ7 or 8 door is close to the 4 seater BN4 and BT7, though usually a bit longer. About a fat 1/16th. There is a 2 inch difference between the BN1/2 doors and the BN4/6/7 doors. This is measuring from the back edge of the door gap at the windshield post to the gap at the rear of the door along the cockpit molding. That is the change point that I am aware of. Patrick could offer info for the BN3 model. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2017 3:15 PM Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? The reason our cars have body #s stamped on most parts is because they had to match parts coming from the Jensen workshop had a variation in build sizes. I have a bonnet from another 100-6 and it has never quite fit right. Its a bit short. I have heard that right to left doors are of different lengths. Ever seen photos of the production line? These were hand built "mass" produced cars Ira Erbs Portland,OR On Wed, Apr 12, 2017 at 1:18 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: I got rocker panels from British Car Specialists. They supply Kilmartin parts. These have the correct curvature in the vertical and lateral dimensions to allow the proper visual sweep from wheel well to wheel well. Most replacements are made on a brake and as such the panels are dead straight and don't look right. As far as other dimensions I found significant differences from side to side on my car and I'm not sure if those are a result of original production or a later rebuild. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 cid:image001.png at 01D2B569.9A7F6740 From: Healeys on behalf of Ian Hey Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 9:01:41 AM To: 'Craig Cooper'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? Your sills sound like normal UK replacement ones ? none of them fit, and many are curved so they do not give an even door to sill gap. I had to cut, weld and lead mine to make the raised portion line up with the door, and a friend just gave up with UK sourced ones and ordered two from Kilmartin which were much better. cid:image002.png at 01D2B569.9A7F6740 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Cooper Sent: 11 April 2017 17:09 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? I'm finishing up on metalwork on a BN7 and replaced the outer sills with ones sourced through Moss, but I believe they came from AH spares. To make them fit my car, I had to section them by about 5/8" as the raised portion that goes under the door was at least that much longer than the door and desired door gap. Not a big deal to do, but has me scratching my head. The bottoms of my doors are a hair over 30-1/2", if anyone with a BN4 or BT7 and a tape measure wants to check theirs and report. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 158 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 158 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Fri Apr 14 06:52:46 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2017 08:52:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---Speedometer disassembly References: <20170413185627.RGLJW.15771.root@pamxwww05-z01> <001e01d2b4e5$f1d934a0$d58b9de0$@sbcglobal.net> I cut a "V" shape into a piece of cardboard and slip the cardboard under the needle so the needle is at the point of the V. This will protect the gauge face. Then take a kitchen fork and slip the tines under the needle center and lift up. If it doesn't come up just by lifting, you can gently lever against the gauge face. Rick Neville On Fri, Apr 14, 2017 at 2:11 AM, John Spaur wrote: > You have to pull it straight off. Not for the faint of heart. > > John > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom > Felts > Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2017 3:56 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---Speedometer disassembly > > I need to pull the guts out of my speedo. Have removed (screws, etc and > the > push-counter end) Trying to get the face off it appears you need to remove > the needle. How do you remove the needle (do you pry it off)---this will > allow removal of the face so you can get the guts out. > > thanks > tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drmasucci at comcast.net Sat Apr 15 05:12:46 2017 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (drmasucci at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 11:12:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 References: <20170327041550.Q9GEP.11688.root@cdptpa-web12> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.83ced4e6-546f-4184-93e9-558992bd613c@mail.outlook.com> Hi All, Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part of the engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why. So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground, or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for stock or mild tune only. I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components. I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand that I will have to machine pockets into the block for valve clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other modifications to support that feature? So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like to hear that also. As usual, thanks in advance for any help. Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 72 Bonneville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sat Apr 15 07:22:54 2017 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 09:22:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 References: <20170327041550.Q9GEP.11688.root@cdptpa-web12> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.83ced4e6-546f-4184-93e9-558992bd613c@mail.outlook.com> <1646379694.45194543.1492254766630.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> I'm running that cam on my 64. It is very responsive at the low end compared to some other cams that feed in at higher rpm. Had pockets in block, DW bucket followers and pushrods. But I also have light modern pistons, lightened flywheel, DW headers and a DW fast road AL head and roller rockers, so your experience may differ. Attached pic of block with pockets. John 64/66 BJ8s On 4/15/2017 7:12 AM, drmasucci at comcast.net wrote: > Hi All, > > Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 > engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a > full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While > all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and lifters were > damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern oils and the lack > of zinc, and since that's the only part of the engine that didn't do > well, I am assuming that must be why. > > So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground, > or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the > wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for > stock or mild tune only. > > I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new to > the process. I know that if I change something like the cam > parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the > valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components. > > I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand > that I will have to machine pockets into the block for valve > clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock parameters > as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to determine how to > select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is drilled to feed oil to > the lobes, do I need to make other modifications to support that feature? > > So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. > Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any > opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my > best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like to > hear that also. > > As usual, thanks in advance for any help. > > Dave > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > 72 Bonneville > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 64 block with valve pockets.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 485890 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 15 08:17:45 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 07:17:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 References: <20170327041550.Q9GEP.11688.root@cdptpa-web12> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.83ced4e6-546f-4184-93e9-558992bd613c@mail.outlook.com> <1646379694.45194543.1492254766630.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Hi Dave, I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe and lifter wear. I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if you're really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.' The DWR1 is 'slightly better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most appropriate for a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower. I don't think you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you at least use headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy heads--and then additional tuning is required. Steve G.--on this list, I believe--is doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has headers and the rest of his engine is likely tuned for the higher torque/power band. The DWR1 doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM, but I do mostly long distance touring so I'm usually running 2,500RPM, give-or-take. I do a lot of driving '100 miles from nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my drivetrain. DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their gun-drilled cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in which case you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods, pistons, etc.). Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean all components--e.g. rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris. My builder was adamant about that. You can use either 'standard' lifters with your current pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their pushrods. I went with standard. I sourced an adjustable, vernier timing set from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some adjustment. DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of course, there's a significant time difference. Whichever cam you use, please let us know your results. Bob On 4/15/2017 4:12 AM, drmasucci at comcast.net wrote: > Hi All, > > Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 > engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a > full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While > all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and lifters were > damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern oils and the lack > of zinc, and since that's the only part of the engine that didn't do > well, I am assuming that must be why. > > So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground, > or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the > wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for > stock or mild tune only. > > I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new to > the process. I know that if I change something like the cam > parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the > valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components. > > I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand > that I will have to machine pockets into the block for valve > clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock parameters > as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to determine how to > select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is drilled to feed oil to > the lobes, do I need to make other modifications to support that feature? > > So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. > Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any > opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my > best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like to > hear that also. > > As usual, thanks in advance for any help. > > Dave > 64 BJ8 > 72 XJ6 > 72 Bonneville > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 15 09:37:56 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 08:37:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 References: <20170327041550.Q9GEP.11688.root@cdptpa-web12> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.83ced4e6-546f-4184-93e9-558992bd613c@mail.outlook.com> <1646379694.45194543.1492254766630.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <8858cdb7-8eec-c0a3-2d62-29a672d1d20e@comcast.net> Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the lower torque curve is helpful. On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Hi Dave, > > I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K > miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe and > lifter wear. I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if you're > really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.' The DWR1 is 'slightly > better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most appropriate > for a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower. I don't think > you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you at least use > headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy heads--and then > additional tuning is required. Steve G.--on this list, I believe--is > doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has headers and the rest of his > engine is likely tuned for the higher torque/power band. The DWR1 > doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM, but I do mostly long distance > touring so I'm usually running 2,500RPM, give-or-take. I do a lot of > driving '100 miles from nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my > drivetrain. > > DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their > gun-drilled cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in > which case you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods, > pistons, etc.). Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean all > components--e.g. rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris. My > builder was adamant about that. You can use either 'standard' lifters > with your current pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their pushrods. > I went with standard. I sourced an adjustable, vernier timing set > from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some adjustment. > > DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of > course, there's a significant time difference. Whichever cam you use, > please let us know your results. > > Bob > > On 4/15/2017 4:12 AM, drmasucci at comcast.net wrote: >> Hi All, >> >> Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 >> engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a >> full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While >> all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and lifters were >> damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern oils and the lack >> of zinc, and since that's the only part of the engine that didn't do >> well, I am assuming that must be why. >> >> So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground, >> or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the >> wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for >> stock or mild tune only. >> >> I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new >> to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam >> parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the >> valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components. >> >> I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand >> that I will have to machine pockets into the block for valve >> clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock >> parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to determine >> how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is drilled to feed >> oil to the lobes, do I need to make other modifications to support >> that feature? >> >> So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. >> Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any >> opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my >> best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like to >> hear that also. >> >> As usual, thanks in advance for any help. >> >> Dave >> 64 BJ8 >> 72 XJ6 >> 72 Bonneville >> >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From goldengt at cal.net Sat Apr 15 11:54:16 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt at cal.net) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 10:54:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 References: <20170327041550.Q9GEP.11688.root@cdptpa-web12> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.83ced4e6-546f-4184-93e9-558992bd613c@mail.outlook.com> <1646379694.45194543.1492254766630.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> Last time I rebuilt my BJ8 engine, I thought I would like a little better mileage so went from a 275 degree cam (probably one step up from a BJ8 cam) to the stock BJ8 cam, with 9.2:1 compression. I do get better mileage but I can't run the proper ignition advance, only 5-8 degrees on the 91 octane. Imagine what my mileage could be it I could raise the timing to 12 or 15! My point is determine the fuel available and work from there. A wilder cam wants more compression.Ken Freese65 BJ8 ----- Original Message ----- From: drmasucci at comcast.net To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 04:12:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 Hi All, Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part of the engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why. So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground, or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for stock or mild tune only. I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components. I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand that I will have to machine pockets into the block for valve clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other modifications to support that feature? So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like to hear that also. As usual, thanks in advance for any help. Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 72 Bonneville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Sat Apr 15 12:59:52 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 14:59:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? All: does anyone know if the fuel tank sending unit for a BJ-8 that is being sold today has changed from what was original? After being stranded on the road having run out of gas while the gauge read ? full, I purchased a new unit from Moss Motors. After installing the unit, it didn?t seem to correspond with what I thought was in the tank. I pumped the tank out, and it still reads ? full! Thinking I had maybe installed it in the wrong orientation, I found the following quote from Rich Chrysler. Being from Rich, I am assuming it is correct: The fuel sender is fitted with the screw terminal toward the back of the car, placing the float forward to the deepest and closest point to the pick up tube. Reading the above, it would follow that the sending unit would have the terminal at one end and the pick-up arm at the other. Problem is, this unit has them both on the same end. And, yes ? I could just turn it around so that the float is in the front, but that isn?t solving the problem. It does read closer to empty, but not completely. This all raises the question: are these units being made differently now, or did I get the wrong unit shipped to me? See picture attached for an example of what I received. Thanks in advance, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: sending-unit1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8004 bytes Desc: not available URL: From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sat Apr 15 13:51:36 2017 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 11:51:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Selecting_a_replacement_CAM_for_BJ8?= By mid-summer I should be able to report back. My engine will be: DWR8 278 degree cam w stock lifters & pushrods .060" over 9:1 Venolia lightweight forged pistons (approx 3.1L displacement) HD8 carbs on DMD manifold Kirk headers thru stock Burgess muffler into Monza tailpipe Stock head with intake port matching DWR high-flow oil pump Lightened flywheel with BJ8 diaphragm clutch into Toyota Supra 5-speed; 3.54 axle. This'll be on a stock 29D which had never been overhauled - stock crank & bores. According to DW's spec sheet, the DWR8 cam only gives up a little low end torque. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 29D Maker of Most Complete Big Healey Rear Disc Kit From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 15 15:53:20 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 14:53:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? References: <03a301d2b61a$77e22540$67a66fc0$@bighealey.org> The problem is the gauge, not the sender. You can try to calibrate it but I have never been very successful: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_10.htm I built one of these but it did not help much: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_06.htm I suspect the problem is caused because the magnetic coils have gone out of plumb through the years: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et213.htm Moving the coils even a tiny bit can cause the gauge to stick on full or empty. When the nuts are tightened it will also affect the coil alignment. John Spaur ?62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 12:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: 'Tom Mitchell' Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? All: does anyone know if the fuel tank sending unit for a BJ-8 that is being sold today has changed from what was original? After being stranded on the road having run out of gas while the gauge read ? full, I purchased a new unit from Moss Motors. After installing the unit, it didn?t seem to correspond with what I thought was in the tank. I pumped the tank out, and it still reads ? full! Thinking I had maybe installed it in the wrong orientation, I found the following quote from Rich Chrysler. Being from Rich, I am assuming it is correct: The fuel sender is fitted with the screw terminal toward the back of the car, placing the float forward to the deepest and closest point to the pick up tube. Reading the above, it would follow that the sending unit would have the terminal at one end and the pick-up arm at the other. Problem is, this unit has them both on the same end. And, yes ? I could just turn it around so that the float is in the front, but that isn?t solving the problem. It does read closer to empty, but not completely. This all raises the question: are these units being made differently now, or did I get the wrong unit shipped to me? See picture attached for an example of what I received. Thanks in advance, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sat Apr 15 15:51:50 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 21:51:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? References: <03a301d2b61a$77e22540$67a66fc0$@bighealey.org> I had your problem exactly with my old unit.But when I bench tested the gauge with a new sender, it read properly.So my problem was the old sender.Maybe your gauge needs calibrating?Also try adding a ground wire to the sender body. Stephen, BJ8 From: Al Fuller To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: 'Tom Mitchell' Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 4:40 PM Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? All:? does anyone know if the fuel tank sending unit for a BJ-8 that is being sold today has changed from what was original? ?After being stranded on the road having run out of gas while the gauge read ? full, I purchased a new unit from Moss Motors.? After installing the unit, it didn?t seem to correspond with what I thought was in the tank.? I pumped the tank out, and it still reads ? full! ?Thinking I had maybe installed it in the wrong orientation, I found the following quote from Rich Chrysler.? Being from Rich, I am assuming it is correct: ?The fuel sender is fitted with the screw terminal toward the back of the car, placing the float forward to the deepest and closest point to the pick up tube. ?Reading the above, it would follow that the sending unit would have the terminal at one end and the pick-up arm at the other.? Problem is, this unit has them both on the same end.? And, yes ? I could just turn it around so that the float is in the front, but that isn?t solving the problem. ?It does read closer to empty, but not completely. ?This all raises the question:? are these units being made differently now, or did I get the wrong unit shipped to me?? See picture attached for an example of what I received. ?Thanks in advance, ?Al Fulleral at bighealey dot org'65 BJ-8'85 Rx-7 ?_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Apr 15 16:45:20 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 18:45:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? References: <03a301d2b61a$77e22540$67a66fc0$@bighealey.org> Every sending unit for a BJ8 I've ever seen has the terminal and float arm on the same side like your photo. The terminal goes toward the FRONT of the car. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 3:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: 'Tom Mitchell' Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? All: does anyone know if the fuel tank sending unit for a BJ-8 that is being sold today has changed from what was original? After being stranded on the road having run out of gas while the gauge read ? full, I purchased a new unit from Moss Motors. After installing the unit, it didn?t seem to correspond with what I thought was in the tank. I pumped the tank out, and it still reads ? full! Thinking I had maybe installed it in the wrong orientation, I found the following quote from Rich Chrysler. Being from Rich, I am assuming it is correct: The fuel sender is fitted with the screw terminal toward the back of the car, placing the float forward to the deepest and closest point to the pick up tube. Reading the above, it would follow that the sending unit would have the terminal at one end and the pick-up arm at the other. Problem is, this unit has them both on the same end. And, yes ? I could just turn it around so that the float is in the front, but that isn?t solving the problem. It does read closer to empty, but not completely. This all raises the question: are these units being made differently now, or did I get the wrong unit shipped to me? See picture attached for an example of what I received. Thanks in advance, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Apr 15 18:11:35 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2017 10:11:35 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? References: <03a301d2b61a$77e22540$67a66fc0$@bighealey.org> Hi Al, Leaving aside New and old senders, If you go back to first principles, the sender float should sit down in the recessed area of the tank when the tank is empty. That's why there is a recessed area in the tank. Because when the centre height line of the float is at the same level of the bottom of the tank, (I.e. The float is sitting fully in the recess) then you get a reasonably accurate empty reading. Forget the orientation of the screw terminal. It has no bearing on the orientation or location of the sender float. I've seen original senders exactly as you described. The second issue is the wire arm is bent like an elbow. If it isn't bent on the correct angle, again, the float won't sit neatly in the recessed area. So I'd fit the sender unit so that the float is aimed to sit in the recess, and then trial and error fiddle with the bend in the wire to make it sit cleanly at the bottom of the recess. Then you should have an empty reading. I'm sure there are "electric" methods of adjustment, but you have to get the "mechanical" stuff correct first. Best Chris > On 16 Apr. 2017, at 4:59 am, Al Fuller wrote: > > All: does anyone know if the fuel tank sending unit for a BJ-8 that is being sold today has changed from what was original? > > After being stranded on the road having run out of gas while the gauge read ? full, I purchased a new unit from Moss Motors. After installing the unit, it didn?t seem to correspond with what I thought was in the tank. I pumped the tank out, and it still reads ? full! > > Thinking I had maybe installed it in the wrong orientation, I found the following quote from Rich Chrysler. Being from Rich, I am assuming it is correct: > > The fuel sender is fitted with the screw terminal toward the back of the > car, placing the float forward to the deepest and closest point to the pick > up tube. > > Reading the above, it would follow that the sending unit would have the terminal at one end and the pick-up arm at the other. Problem is, this unit has them both on the same end. And, yes ? I could just turn it around so that the float is in the front, but that isn?t solving the problem. It does read closer to empty, but not completely. > > This all raises the question: are these units being made differently now, or did I get the wrong unit shipped to me? See picture attached for an example of what I received. > > Thanks in advance, > > Al Fuller > al at bighealey dot org > '65 BJ-8 > '85 Rx-7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jht66e at comcast.net Sat Apr 15 19:37:07 2017 From: jht66e at comcast.net (Jack Terrick) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 21:37:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Top frame dimension I'm getting to the point of having the top fitted to my BT7. Can someone provide the dimension from the top of the prop shaft tunnel to the underside of the main (center) bar of the frame for the top? When I loosely lay the top that I bought from AH Spares across the frame it appears to be inches short of making it down to the top of the wings behind the doors. Don't know if it's an issue with the top itself or with the way the body panels were put together. Or if it's normal for a new top and it needs to be stretched. Thanks. Jack Terrick Greensburg, PA From eschulz at frontiernet.net Sat Apr 15 20:55:54 2017 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 22:55:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? References: <03a301d2b61a$77e22540$67a66fc0$@bighealey.org> My BJ7 fuel sender, which is the original, has the screw terminal to the back of the car and the float towards the front, which is exactly the way that Rich Chrysler said. Elton On 4/15/2017 2:59 PM, Al Fuller wrote: > > All: does anyone know if the fuel tank sending unit for a BJ-8 that > is being sold today has changed from what was original? > > After being stranded on the road having run out of gas while the gauge > read ? full, I purchased a new unit from Moss Motors. After > installing the unit, it didn't seem to correspond with what I thought > was in the tank. I pumped the tank out, and it still reads ? full! > > Thinking I had maybe installed it in the wrong orientation, I found > the following quote from Rich Chrysler. Being from Rich, I am > assuming it is correct: > > The fuel sender is fitted with the screw terminal toward the back of the > > car, placing the float forward to the deepest and closest point to the > pick > > up tube. > > Reading the above, it would follow that the sending unit would have > the terminal at one end and the pick-up arm at the other. Problem is, > this unit has them both on the same end. And, yes -- I could just > turn it around so that the float is in the front, but that isn't > solving the problem. It does read closer to empty, but not completely. > > This all raises the question: are these units being made differently > now, or did I get the wrong unit shipped to me? See picture attached > for an example of what I received. > > Thanks in advance, > > Al Fuller > > al at bighealey dot org > > '65 BJ-8 > > '85 Rx-7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sat Apr 15 22:48:21 2017 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 21:48:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? References: <03a301d2b61a$77e22540$67a66fc0$@bighealey.org> Al Fuller has quoted Rich Chrysler. I can do the same. In e-mails that were exchanged in 2009 between Rich, other Listers and me, we discussed the float and terminal situation when a Lister said the illustrations in the parts manual showed the terminal facing rearward: Rich's reply was: The fuel sender is fitted with the screw terminal toward the back of the car, placing the float forward to the deepest and closest point to the pick up tube. >(From me to Rich): Attached is a photo of the fuel sender that is installed in my tank - both > terminal and float toward the front. Can't vouch for how long it has been > in there. I have two in my parts supply that are as you stated - terminal > to the rear, float to the front. > > Is mine a fluke or does it belong to some other make/model car? (From Rich): ...... I removed the sender from this original '65 BJ8 tank this week and it's exactly the same as yours. The float faces toward the front of the car as does the terminal. I never did find out what other make/model of car the sending unit with the rear facing terminal was installed in. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 215,217 miles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Sat Apr 15 23:13:39 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2017 22:13:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 References: <20170327041550.Q9GEP.11688.root@cdptpa-web12> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.83ced4e6-546f-4184-93e9-558992bd613c@mail.outlook.com> <1646379694.45194543.1492254766630.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> <8858cdb7-8eec-c0a3-2d62-29a672d1d20e@comcast.net> Bob, your post is of interest. I just sent my engine to the painter today with DWR 85mm pistons; DWR1 cam, hollow tappets and matching pushrods; and DWR lightened flywheel with 9.5" clutch. Already had the DWR high capacity oil pump. Plus new DWR reverse, 1st and cluster gears and all new synchros. I'm keeping the stock intake and exhaust manifolds, and the stock carbs. My car was originally a non-OD cars (now so equipped), so it has the 3.54 rear. Really looking forward to experiencing how it will drive. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:38 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8 Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the lower torque curve is helpful. On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Hi Dave, I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe and lifter wear. I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if you're really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.' The DWR1 is 'slightly better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most appropriate for a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower. I don't think you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you at least use headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy heads--and then additional tuning is required. Steve G.--on this list, I believe--is doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has headers and the rest of his engine is likely tuned for the higher torque/power band. The DWR1 doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM, but I do mostly long distance touring so I'm usually running 2,500RPM, give-or-take. I do a lot of driving '100 miles from nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my drivetrain. DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their gun-drilled cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in which case you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods, pistons, etc.). Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean all components--e.g. rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris. My builder was adamant about that. You can use either 'standard' lifters with your current pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their pushrods. I went with standard. I sourced an adjustable, vernier timing set from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some adjustment. DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of course, there's a significant time difference. Whichever cam you use, please let us know your results. Bob wrote: Hi All, Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part of the engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why. So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground, or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for stock or mild tune only. I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components. I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand that I will have to machine pockets into the block for valve clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other modifications to support that feature? So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like to hear that also. As usual, thanks in advance for any help. Dave 64 BJ8 72 XJ6 72 Bonneville _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 0415170955.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 6385572 bytes Desc: not available URL: From al at bighealey.org Sun Apr 16 08:07:57 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2017 10:07:57 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? References: <03a301d2b61a$77e22540$67a66fc0$@bighealey.org> <1409622807.1011635.1492294141866@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Steve. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Stephen Hutchings [mailto:s.hutchings at rogers.com] Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 6:09 PM To: Al Fuller ; healeys at autox.team.net Cc: 'Tom Mitchell' Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? Sorry, I didn't address your original question. The unit seems to be oriented like the original. Terminal forward. Stephen _____ Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 4:40 PM Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? All: does anyone know if the fuel tank sending unit for a BJ-8 that is being sold today has changed from what was original? After being stranded on the road having run out of gas while the gauge read ? full, I purchased a new unit from Moss Motors. After installing the unit, it didn?t seem to correspond with what I thought was in the tank. I pumped the tank out, and it still reads ? full! Thinking I had maybe installed it in the wrong orientation, I found the following quote from Rich Chrysler. Being from Rich, I am assuming it is correct: The fuel sender is fitted with the screw terminal toward the back of the car, placing the float forward to the deepest and closest point to the pick up tube. Reading the above, it would follow that the sending unit would have the terminal at one end and the pick-up arm at the other. Problem is, this unit has them both on the same end. And, yes ? I could just turn it around so that the float is in the front, but that isn?t solving the problem. It does read closer to empty, but not completely. This all raises the question: are these units being made differently now, or did I get the wrong unit shipped to me? See picture attached for an example of what I received. Thanks in advance, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From al at bighealey.org Sun Apr 16 08:11:07 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2017 10:11:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 float Thanks to all who responded to the float issue. I think I have enough information now. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Apr 16 08:31:44 2017 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2017 14:31:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] More on fuel sender References: <1561381303.300249.1492353104433.ref@mail.yahoo.com> I really don't want to add confusion to this thread, but I must.This morning I'm looking at my original sender (Terminal and float to the front of the car) beside the replacement (Terminal in one direction, float in the other).So, sorry Al, but it's now apparent that the replacements have a different set-up.This means that to get the float in the right place, you have to have the terminal towards the back of the car, and the float forward. I'm hoping this will clear things up. I didn't see it until I had the two side by side. Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ronfineesq at earthlink.net Sun Apr 16 11:05:14 2017 From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2017 10:05:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Re-chroming a grill I have been off this list for a few years but I have a question now about replacing or re-chroming my original grill. It has been on my car since I completed the restoration in 2005. But it just won?t polish up any longer. Has anyone had any experience re-chroming an original grill or are people just purchasing the Moss Motors after market grills? Ron Fine 1961 BN7 L.A. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ronfineesq at earthlink.net Sun Apr 16 11:40:49 2017 From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2017 10:40:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from SC Parts Group Has anyone had experiences, good or bad, ordering parts from SC Parts Group in England? They list a ?British Made? grill for about half the price of locally sourced grills. Ron Fine 61BN7 WLA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sun Apr 16 15:01:08 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2017 21:01:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from SC Parts Group References: I got a water pump and fan from them last year. Good price and fast service Regards, Richard C BN7 440 Has anyone had experiences, good or bad, ordering parts from SC Parts Group in England? They list a ?British Made? grill for about half the price of locally sourced grills. Ron Fine 61BN7 WLA _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Sun Apr 16 15:57:40 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 09:57:40 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Re-chroming a grill References: <4A191236A8B54AB5B6DC4C19D07FEB10@Inspiron660> I tried rechroming a BN4 grille and $2000 later gave up, instead went with a used original. You have to fully disassemble it (assuming yours is a Mk1 with wavy grille) and this means taking out the dozens of small copper rivets. Once apart, the grill slats are brass and were originally nickel/chromed straight onto the brass. The problem for me started when the chrome shop wanted to put copper on over the brass and it grew a green oxide bloom within a couple of months of being installed which looked rather tatty. The second issue is that the chrome shop insisted on panel beating every last imperfection out of it and this meant a lot of filing and sanding so the end result was very "hotrod" with everything rounded and smooth which IMO looked ugly. The reproduction ones don't seem to be very original looking, although I have only seen low-res pics (attached). Andy. On 4/17/17, Ron Fine wrote: > I have been off this list for a few years but I have a question now about > replacing or re-chroming my original grill. It has been on my car since I > completed the restoration in 2005. But it just won?t polish up any longer. > Has anyone had any experience re-chroming an original grill or are people > just purchasing the Moss Motors after market grills? > > Ron Fine > 1961 BN7 > L.A. > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: WP_000374.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 417475 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Apr 16 17:00:23 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2017 19:00:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? References: <03a301d2b61a$77e22540$67a66fc0$@bighealey.org> <58F2DD3A.1050706@frontiernet.net> Elton, Rich Chrysler was the expert in all things Austin-Healey and we miss him very much, while all I claim to know about is BJ8s, which is what the original question referred to. As I said, my original sending unit and another original unit that I have, plus two replacements from Moss Motors ALL had the terminal and float arm on the same side (toward the front of the car). The BJ7/BJ8 Mechanical Service Parts List shows one pictorial of the sending unit and lets it apply to both BJ7 and BJ8; but the part number listing shows two different part numbers for the sending unit: 1B2736 for BJ7 and BHA4435 for BJ8. Detailed differences are shown only by part numbers, which aren't useful without the drawings that go with them. The pictorial is a left 3/4 view that has the float arm toward the front of the car in relation to the fuel tank. No terminal is shown, but that may be because in that view the terminal is to the rear and behind the body of the unit. I have an original fuel tank from a BJ7 with the sending unit still installed. It is in storage and the screws are hard to get at so I can't determine whether the float is toward the front (as it should be, in the deepest part of the tank), but the terminal is toward the rear. Perhaps Rich was responding specifically about the orientation of BJ7 units, but to my knowledge all BJ8 units are supposed to have the float arm and terminal on the same (front) side. Anyway, it doesn't matter as long as the float goes into the well in the front of the tank. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Elton Schulz Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 10:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ-8 fuel sending unit - changed? My BJ7 fuel sender, which is the original, has the screw terminal to the back of the car and the float towards the front, which is exactly the way that Rich Chrysler said. Elton On 4/15/2017 2:59 PM, Al Fuller wrote: All: does anyone know if the fuel tank sending unit for a BJ-8 that is being sold today has changed from what was original? After being stranded on the road having run out of gas while the gauge read ? full, I purchased a new unit from Moss Motors. After installing the unit, it didn?t seem to correspond with what I thought was in the tank. I pumped the tank out, and it still reads ? full! Thinking I had maybe installed it in the wrong orientation, I found the following quote from Rich Chrysler. Being from Rich, I am assuming it is correct: The fuel sender is fitted with the screw terminal toward the back of the car, placing the float forward to the deepest and closest point to the pick up tube. Reading the above, it would follow that the sending unit would have the terminal at one end and the pick-up arm at the other. Problem is, this unit has them both on the same end. And, yes ? I could just turn it around so that the float is in the front, but that isn?t solving the problem. It does read closer to empty, but not completely. This all raises the question: are these units being made differently now, or did I get the wrong unit shipped to me? See picture attached for an example of what I received. Thanks in advance, Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net Image removed by sender. Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From YNOTINK at msn.com Sun Apr 16 22:16:55 2017 From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 04:16:55 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Top frame dimension References: <58F2CAC3.9060001@comcast.net> Sure you haven't got a top for a BN6/7? ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Jack Terrick Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2017 1:37:07 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Top frame dimension I'm getting to the point of having the top fitted to my BT7. Can someone provide the dimension from the top of the prop shaft tunnel to the underside of the main (center) bar of the frame for the top? When I loosely lay the top that I bought from AH Spares across the frame it appears to be inches short of making it down to the top of the wings behind the doors. Don't know if it's an issue with the top itself or with the way the body panels were put together. Or if it's normal for a new top and it needs to be stretched. Thanks. Jack Terrick Greensburg, PA _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Apr 17 05:32:02 2017 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 21:32:02 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from SC Parts Group References: G'day I have been buying spares from AH Spares from as early as 1973 when Fred Draper was still alive. A couple of years back I ordered a set of pistons and a clutch. Then last month it was a water pump. There was lots of stuff in between. Depending on the size of the package some things arrived in Australia just three days after my order while smaller items have taken a week and a half. Never had any difficulties is any way especially when buying parts for an obscure model. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fine Sent: Monday, 17 April 2017 3:41 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from SC Parts Group Has anyone had experiences, good or bad, ordering parts from SC Parts Group in England? They list a "British Made" grill for about half the price of locally sourced grills. Ron Fine 61BN7 WLA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Apr 17 07:27:33 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 09:27:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank sending unit In the slow to be resolved discussion on this topic I could not constrain myself this morning. Off to the garage parts bin to see what I could find. Of 14 used senders all had float to front and terminal to rear. One was a cobbled together old base with new float arm and plastic float but still oriented the same way. I know there is a couple more boxes of senders somewhere but got distracted by an old can of motor oil on the shelf and had to read all the verbiage to see if it would help with a new engine breakin !!!! Just kidding..... Have a great week everybody Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1291.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 123409 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com Mon Apr 17 08:16:33 2017 From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 10:16:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from SC Parts Group References: I've bought parts from them, and they arrived quickly and were just what I needed. Now is a good time to buy parts from England. jon On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 1:40 PM, Ron Fine wrote: > Has anyone had experiences, good or bad, ordering parts from SC Parts > Group in England? They list a ?British Made? grill for about half the > price of locally sourced grills. > > Ron Fine > 61BN7 > WLA > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > einhornlawoffice at gmail.com > > > -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 17 09:49:51 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 08:49:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Top frame dimension References: <58F2CAC3.9060001@comcast.net> early and late BT7s have different top frames. What year is your car? MKII are different that Mark Is Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 6:37 PM, Jack Terrick wrote: > I'm getting to the point of having the top fitted to my BT7. Can someone > provide the dimension from the top of the prop shaft tunnel to the > underside of the main (center) bar of the frame for the top? When I > loosely lay the top that I bought from AH Spares across the frame it > appears to be inches short of making it down to the top of the wings behind > the doors. Don't know if it's an issue with the top itself or with the way > the body panels were put together. Or if it's normal for a new top and it > needs to be stretched. > > Thanks. > > Jack Terrick > Greensburg, PA > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Mon Apr 17 09:53:08 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 15:53:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank sending unit References: <8F29E9E8-7AD8-4C87-8229-F96196677162@aol.com> Just a simple note about the fuel sending unit. Often these leak between the flange and the tank. Usually the cause for this is that the sending unit flange has been bent (upward between screws / downward at the screw) because of overtightening with a cork (or sometimes two) gaskets. Careful tapping with a hammer and a flat steel surface then a neoprene gasket with usually solve the issue. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 9:28 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Fuel tank sending unit In the slow to be resolved discussion on this topic I could not constrain myself this morning. Off to the garage parts bin to see what I could find. Of 14 used senders all had float to front and terminal to rear. One was a cobbled together old base with new float arm and plastic float but still oriented the same way. I know there is a couple more boxes of senders somewhere but got distracted by an old can of motor oil on the shelf and had to read all the verbiage to see if it would help with a new engine breakin !!!! Just kidding..... Have a great week everybody Perry From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Apr 17 10:12:04 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 09:12:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?ordering_from_SC?= how do they do their shipping? last few years the price of shipping has really gone up. is it really worth the price to ship from europe to the west coast. i did have good luck ordering some whitworth tools off ebay, but have not ordered anything else. used to order parts from SC when i was in germany in the 80s and had good experiences. From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 17 10:12:44 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 09:12:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Top frame dimension References: <58F2CAC3.9060001@comcast.net> <58F4E55C.1010300@comcast.net> <58F4E608.8020306@comcast.net> Are you applying lots of heat form a space heater and heat gun to streatch the vinyl? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 8:58 AM, Jack Terrick wrote: > Yes, it was ordered for a MkI, > > Jack > > > On 4/17/2017 11:56 AM, i erbs wrote: > > was your top for a MKI? > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 8:55 AM, Jack Terrick wrote: > >> Mark 1. >> >> Thanks. >> >> Jack >> >> >> On 4/17/2017 11:49 AM, i erbs wrote: >> >> early and late BT7s have different top frames. What year is your car? >> MKII are different that Mark Is >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> On Sat, Apr 15, 2017 at 6:37 PM, Jack Terrick wrote: >> >>> I'm getting to the point of having the top fitted to my BT7. Can >>> someone provide the dimension from the top of the prop shaft tunnel to the >>> underside of the main (center) bar of the frame for the top? When I >>> loosely lay the top that I bought from AH Spares across the frame it >>> appears to be inches short of making it down to the top of the wings behind >>> the doors. Don't know if it's an issue with the top itself or with the way >>> the body panels were put together. Or if it's normal for a new top and it >>> needs to be stretched. >>> >>> Thanks. >>> >>> Jack Terrick >>> Greensburg, PA >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >>> >>> >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 17 14:47:55 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 13:47:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] ordering from SC References: <20170417161204.7011.qmail@server278.com> I agree. I ordered a luggage rack from Cape-International and they wanted $350 for the rack $190 to ship! I used a third party shipper and they charged me around $100. Steve at Cape-International was great about working with them. I have asked for cheaper slower rates from various vendors, so are willing , some are not. https://www.parcel2go.com Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 9:12 AM, healeymanjim wrote: > how do they do their shipping? last few years the price of shipping has > really gone up. is it really worth the price to ship from > europe to the west coast. i did have good luck ordering some whitworth > tools off ebay, but have not ordered anything else. > used to order parts from SC when i was in germany in the 80s and had good > experiences. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 17 14:57:13 2017 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 20:57:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] ordering from SC References: <20170417161204.7011.qmail@server278.com> Freight was more expensive than to ship from Calif to KY but lower price of items more than offset cost of freight. Virtually overnight vs 5 days + from Calif. obviously one needs to do the math. Regards, Richard C > On Apr 17, 2017, at 3:05 PM, healeymanjim wrote: > > how do they do their shipping? last few years the price of shipping has really gone up. is it really worth the price to ship from > europe to the west coast. i did have good luck ordering some whitworth tools off ebay, but have not ordered anything else. > used to order parts from SC when i was in germany in the 80s and had good experiences. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Mon Apr 17 22:33:45 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2017 21:33:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight References: <007101d14684$18ac2fa0$4a048ee0$@roadrunner.com> Many of you weighed in last January when I posted my question on keeping the rear shocks tight. A machinist friend manufactured the mounting plates based on the attached drawing. He also CNC machined 3/8" thick hardened steel "spacer/washers" that I used between the shock body ears and the lock washers. He charged me $100 for his work, which took him a couple of hours (I supplied the stock). Special thanks to Michael Salter and Larry Varley for the ideas, and Ian Hey, who was the source of the drawing. I didn't drive the car much between then and when I pulled the engine last November, but the bolts stayed tight. Nonetheless, I decided to take advantage of having things apart now and upgraded to Grade 10 socket head bolts (5/16" hex key) from the Grade 8 button head bolts I first used, and added a locking nut on the back side of the threaded plate. The 5/16" socket head allows for better torque with an Allen wrench, which is necessary on the rear bolts due to interference from the shock arm. The front bolts can be tightened with a hex key socket on a long extension. Thought I'd share a photo of the final assembly. So far, so good. Thanks, guys! Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2016 4:09 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight. They work loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with my annual maintenance. I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split washers. Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better) than the grade 8. Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted about them on this list. They loosened more quickly than split washers. Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better than split washers. Anyone have a method that actually keeps the hardware tight? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Rear shocker tapped plate.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 222345 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 0416171651b.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 110365 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Rear shock mount brackets 160220.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 814072 bytes Desc: not available URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Tue Apr 18 01:57:51 2017 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2017 08:57:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from SC Parts Group References: I can't talk about the current service, but I used them a lot a few years back and the service and the parts were very good and worked and fitted well. They have been delivering Healey and other sportscar products for many, many years. I believe that they had some of the original jigs at some point so parts like panels fit/fitted well. I can't speak for non-UK delivery as I am UK-based but they got stuff to me on time. I would suggest that see if you can get further info via an email or phone chat with them. Peter On 16/04/17 18:40, Ron Fine wrote: > Has anyone had experiences, good or bad, ordering parts from SC Parts > Group in England? They list a ?British Made? grill for about half the > price of locally sourced grills. > > Ron Fine > 61BN7 > WLA > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > From fredwescoe at gmail.com Tue Apr 18 08:15:01 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2017 10:15:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet Guys, After searching the archives, there does not seem to be a clear cut opinion of who supplies good carpet sets. There are pros and cons on Heritage, Moss and Sport and Classics as well as others. I have sent emails to Heritage and they have not responded about their carpeting. I always thought they were the premier supplier but no responses from them. What are the experiences of list on very good carpet for a 66 BJ8 and suggestions of recent experiences with suppliers. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 63 BJ7 deceased -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Apr 18 12:11:38 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2017 18:11:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet References: Fred, I have had good luck with John Skinner in the UK. I have talked to Jonathon Skinner via email and he provides good service, good quality of carpet at a competitive price. You must specify that you do not want the rubber heel mat on both sides of the front floor if you do not want it because otherwise it comes with it on both sides. As well their carpet is bound all around, if you do not want that, you have to specify it. Heritage is of very high quality, I have purchased theirs before, but you pay dearly for it as well. I have found the original style of carpet, with the Jute backing difficult to work with and no more durable than the style that has rubber backing in modern carpets. Jean ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Fred Wescoe Sent: April 18, 2017 2:15 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Carpet Guys, After searching the archives, there does not seem to be a clear cut opinion of who supplies good carpet sets. There are pros and cons on Heritage, Moss and Sport and Classics as well as others. I have sent emails to Heritage and they have not responded about their carpeting. I always thought they were the premier supplier but no responses from them. What are the experiences of list on very good carpet for a 66 BJ8 and suggestions of recent experiences with suppliers. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 63 BJ7 deceased -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Tue Apr 18 15:53:27 2017 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2017 17:53:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet References: I used Heritage for my carpet and trunk kit and was every happy with the product and always got a relatively timely response from them. I assume you know that they moved from Vancouver to Palm Springs, but they still have a Cdn rep, and if you are ordering from Canada and go through him, then you avoid duty and there is a way better rate on shipping. Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: April-18-17 10:15 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Carpet Guys, After searching the archives, there does not seem to be a clear cut opinion of who supplies good carpet sets. There are pros and cons on Heritage, Moss and Sport and Classics as well as others. I have sent emails to Heritage and they have not responded about their carpeting. I always thought they were the premier supplier but no responses from them. What are the experiences of list on very good carpet for a 66 BJ8 and suggestions of recent experiences with suppliers. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 63 BJ7 deceased -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbt71 at gmail.com Tue Apr 18 18:20:22 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2017 18:20:22 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Front Hub Runout All, Thanks to y'all I've gotten the calipers apart and together again. Now I've run into a problem trying to fit the first one. It looks like I've maybe an 1/8" of runout at the hub (measured at the edge of the hub flange - I've taken the disc off). I'm using new bearings and the races appear to have been driven home. I tightened the hub down without the shims like the book says to make sure they're seated. The turning action of the hub is smooth. Any suggestions as to where the runout could be coming from and how to check? The archive mentions that sometimes the ends of the distance piece aren't really parallel. Thanks Yet Again, Mike Tobin Townsend, Montana -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 18 22:28:56 2017 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2017 21:28:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carpet References: I bought the Heritage set but you do pay dearly, as Jean states. I had my Heritage carpets bound to protect the edges, but this is not original. Heritage will bind them for an upcharge. As for communicating? Heritage was not so good. John ?62 BT7 BTW, what is the story about the 63 BJ7 that passed? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2017 7:15 AM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Carpet Guys, After searching the archives, there does not seem to be a clear cut opinion of who supplies good carpet sets. There are pros and cons on Heritage, Moss and Sport and Classics as well as others. I have sent emails to Heritage and they have not responded about their carpeting. I always thought they were the premier supplier but no responses from them. What are the experiences of list on very good carpet for a 66 BJ8 and suggestions of recent experiences with suppliers. Thanks, Fred 66 BJ8 63 BJ7 deceased -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Tue Apr 18 22:33:54 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2017 21:33:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front Hub Runout References: It could be helpful to know what the history of your hub is. If it is new, it still might be faulty. You tightened the bearings until they started to bind and then backed off until just free. You might try repeating that and see if anything changes. You might also try installing the disc and see if that forces a better runout at the disc perimeter, which is what you are looking for. -Roland On Tue, 18 Apr 2017 18:20:22 -0600, you wrote: >All,Thanks to y'all I've gotten the calipers apart and together again.Now I've run into a problem trying to fit the first one.It looks like I've maybe an 1/8" of runout at the hub (measured at the edge of the hub flange - I've taken the disc off).I'm using new bearings and the races appear to have been driven home. I tightened the hub down without the shims like the book says to make sure they're seated. The turning action of the hub is smooth.Any suggestions as to where the runout could be coming from and how to check?The archive mentions that sometimes the ends of the distance piece aren't really parallel. >Thanks Yet Again,Mike TobinTownsend, Montana From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Wed Apr 19 01:54:48 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 08:54:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Generator swap Hi, I have a MkII BT7 fitted with an alternator. I still have the generator, C45 I think, and it's got new brushes, bearings etc. Works well. My nephew's car in Paris, being a BJ8, has a C42. Slightly higher output. Now, my question is this, my never having seen both together:- Can I swap my BT7 genny into his BJ8?? Are they the same size so will fit onto the mountings? Are the electrical connections the same? Any other thoughts? We haven't determined that his genny is at fault yet, but it's looking likely. Conceivably, I'll fly over and give him a hand. Carrying a genny, meter etcetc by air won't be too easy these days. (Security issues). But carrying the wrong one would be heartbreaking. If you see what I mean! The plan is for the BJ8 to come over to the UK in early July. We can get his dead genny swapped or refurbished by then. OR, if you all tell me that the units are not physically interchangeable, I could take over the correct one (exchange unit) from one of the suppliers and bring back his dead one. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drmasucci at comcast.net Wed Apr 19 05:18:10 2017 From: drmasucci at comcast.net (David Masucci) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 07:18:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rotisserie References: <20170327041550.Q9GEP.11688.root@cdptpa-web12> <3E17D0DD06EE3063.83ced4e6-546f-4184-93e9-558992bd613c@mail.outlook.com> <1646379694.45194543.1492254766630.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> There?s a rotisserie on Ebay right now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Austin-Healey-100-6-3000-restoration-stand-/222480250278?hash=item33ccdb35a6:g:3gAAAOSw5UZY9ras&vxp=mtr -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Apr 19 05:37:35 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 21:37:35 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Generator swap References: <000401d2b8e2$380950e0$a81bf2a0$@homecall.co.uk> Hi Simon, The BJ8 bracket/ C42 generator mounting points are different to the earlier bigger ones. I.e. The distance between the 2 lugs on the block side plate are different to the earlier block side plate; and the distance between the lugs on the generators themselves are different. I don't know if you can shim them up with washers to adapt one to the other - and more importantly, if you do, I don't know if the pulley lines up with the water pump & crank pulleys. So - I know they are different. But I've never tried to adapt one to fit the other. Maybe someone else has? I'll send you some pics tomorrow. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone > On 19 Apr. 2017, at 5:54 pm, Simon Lachlan wrote: > > Hi, > I have a MkII BT7 fitted with an alternator. I still have the generator, C45 I think, and it?s got new brushes, bearings etc. Works well. > My nephew?s car in Paris, being a BJ8, has a C42. Slightly higher output. > Now, my question is this, my never having seen both together:- > Can I swap my BT7 genny into his BJ8?? Are they the same size so will fit onto the mountings? > Are the electrical connections the same? > Any other thoughts? > We haven?t determined that his genny is at fault yet, but it?s looking likely. Conceivably, I?ll fly over and give him a hand. Carrying a genny, meter etcetc by air won?t be too easy these days. (Security issues). But carrying the wrong one would be heartbreaking. If you see what I mean! > The plan is for the BJ8 to come over to the UK in early July. We can get his dead genny swapped or refurbished by then. > OR, if you all tell me that the units are not physically interchangeable, I could take over the correct one (exchange unit) from one of the suppliers and bring back his dead one. > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Apr 19 07:34:43 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 09:34:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front Hub Runout References: A few years ago I bought two new splined hubs ($175 each) from Gary Hemphill at Healey Haven. After installation of the hubs, the right front wheel developed a chirp that was coming from brake rotor wobble intermittently picking up a brake pad and dropping it as it rotated. I had the rotor turned, but the rotor wobble remained and was only cured when I installed the original hub with the same bearings. Hemphill inadvertently cc'd me on an e-mail to a supplier and admitted that he had another hub on his desk with the same problem. That supplier told me later that he had not sold the hub to Hemphill. Hemphill refused to accept responsibility for the bad hub and never did reimburse me or replace it, he just went out of business. Good riddance. Some of those hubs may still be around, and that might be your problem. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 12:34 AM To: Mike Tobin Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Hub Runout It could be helpful to know what the history of your hub is. If it is new, it still might be faulty. You tightened the bearings until they started to bind and then backed off until just free. You might try repeating that and see if anything changes. You might also try installing the disc and see if that forces a better runout at the disc perimeter, which is what you are looking for. -Roland On Tue, 18 Apr 2017 18:20:22 -0600, you wrote: >All,Thanks to y'all I've gotten the calipers apart and together again.Now I've run into a problem trying to fit the first one.It looks like I've maybe an 1/8" of runout at the hub (measured at the edge of the hub flange - I've taken the disc off).I'm using new bearings and the races appear to have been driven home. I tightened the hub down without the shims like the book says to make sure they're seated. The turning action of the hub is smooth.Any suggestions as to where the runout could be coming from and how to check?The archive mentions that sometimes the ends of the distance piece aren't really parallel. >Thanks Yet Again,Mike TobinTownsend, Montana _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com From ahbt71 at gmail.com Wed Apr 19 10:17:58 2017 From: ahbt71 at gmail.com (Mike Tobin) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 10:17:58 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Front Hub Runout References: It's the hub. Shoulda done this before I went for help. Put the hub from the off side on and its fine. This probably explains how absolutely horrid the front end shake had gotten when it was last driven. I figured it was just the crappy old tires and wheels. The thing had not shown any shaking until the last couple months (which included a cross-country trip and a half). Guessing the shaking from shitty wheel and tire stressed the hub. Cheers, Mike On Tue, Apr 18, 2017 at 10:33 PM, wrote: > It could be helpful to know what the history of your hub is. If it is > new, it still might be faulty. You tightened the bearings until they > started to bind and then backed off until just free. You might try > repeating that and see if anything changes. > > You might also try installing the disc and see if that forces a better > runout at the disc perimeter, which is what you are looking for. > > -Roland > On Tue, 18 Apr 2017 18:20:22 -0600, you wrote: > > >All,Thanks to y'all I've gotten the calipers apart and together again.Now > I've run into a problem trying to fit the first one.It looks like I've > maybe an 1/8" of runout at the hub (measured at the edge of the hub flange > - I've taken the disc off).I'm using new bearings and the races appear to > have been driven home. I tightened the hub down without the shims like the > book says to make sure they're seated. The turning action of the hub is > smooth.Any suggestions as to where the runout could be coming from and how > to check?The archive mentions that sometimes the ends of the distance piece > aren't really parallel. > >Thanks Yet Again,Mike TobinTownsend, Montana > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 19 10:33:23 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 09:33:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front Hub Runout References: <027301d2b911$b4533420$1cf99c60$@rr.com> To my shock and awe, I was informed Hemphill is still in business (albeit somewhat 'under the radar'): https://www.facebook.com/HealeyHaven/ I've got a couple new hubs sitting on the shelf; is there a way to tell if they're defective before installing (I don't have access to a lathe or similar)? Bob On 4/19/2017 6:34 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > A few years ago I bought two new splined hubs ($175 each) from Gary Hemphill > at Healey Haven. After installation of the hubs, the right front wheel > developed a chirp that was coming from brake rotor wobble intermittently > picking up a brake pad and dropping it as it rotated. I had the rotor > turned, but the rotor wobble remained and was only cured when I installed > the original hub with the same bearings. Hemphill inadvertently cc'd me on > an e-mail to a supplier and admitted that he had another hub on his desk > with the same problem. That supplier told me later that he had not sold the > hub to Hemphill. > Hemphill refused to accept responsibility for the bad hub and never did > reimburse me or replace it, he just went out of business. Good riddance. > > Some of those hubs may still be around, and that might be your problem. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > sentenac.rw at gmail.com > Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 12:34 AM > To: Mike Tobin > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Hub Runout > > It could be helpful to know what the history of your hub is. If it is new, > it still might be faulty. You tightened the bearings until they started to > bind and then backed off until just free. You might try repeating that and > see if anything changes. > > You might also try installing the disc and see if that forces a better > runout at the disc perimeter, which is what you are looking for. > > -Roland > On Tue, 18 Apr 2017 18:20:22 -0600, you wrote: > >> All,Thanks to y'all I've gotten the calipers apart and together again.Now > I've run into a problem trying to fit the first one.It looks like I've maybe > an 1/8" of runout at the hub (measured at the edge of the hub flange - I've > taken the disc off).I'm using new bearings and the races appear to have been > driven home. I tightened the hub down without the shims like the book says > to make sure they're seated. The turning action of the hub is smooth.Any > suggestions as to where the runout could be coming from and how to check?The > archive mentions that sometimes the ends of the distance piece aren't really > parallel. >> Thanks Yet Again,Mike TobinTownsend, Montana > From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Apr 19 11:09:17 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 13:09:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Front Hub Runout I had heard Hemphill was back in business, but I had hoped it was only an "alternative fact". I don't know of any good way of determining if the hubs are bad or not except by installing them. The only reason I bought from him in the first place was that not too long before someone posted to the list that the hub he bought from Moss was defective (bearing cavities machined oversize), and I wanted to avoid getting one of those. And I was passing by his place on a business trip so it was convenient. As it turned out, I replaced the bad Hemphill hub with a good one from Moss. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC? -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 12:33 PM To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Hub Runout To my shock and awe, I was informed Hemphill is still in business (albeit somewhat 'under the radar'): https://www.facebook.com/HealeyHaven/ I've got a couple new hubs sitting on the shelf; is there a way to tell if they're defective before installing (I don't have access to a lathe or similar)? Bob From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 19 13:20:51 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 12:20:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Front Hub Runout References: <027c01d2b92f$ae299d50$0a7cd7f0$@rr.com> I got mine from British Wire Wheel after Bruce E. sold but before they went tango uniform, on the assumption they would sell a credible product. To Moss's credit, they do at least try to sell a decent product, and correct issues if they can. Michael Grant, their technical support guru last I checked, is a Big Healey owner and makes a concerted effort to get as good quality as he can. But, if all they can get is crappy Chinese rubber parts, for instance, they either sell them or we have to do without altogether. NFI (but did visit their shop once). Bob On 4/19/2017 10:09 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > I had heard Hemphill was back in business, but I had hoped it was only an > "alternative fact". > I don't know of any good way of determining if the hubs are bad or not > except by installing them. The only reason I bought from him in the first > place was that not too long before someone posted to the list that the hub > he bought from Moss was defective (bearing cavities machined oversize), and > I wanted to avoid getting one of those. And I was passing by his place on a > business trip so it was convenient. As it turned out, I replaced the bad > Hemphill hub with a good one from Moss. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] > Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 12:33 PM > To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Hub Runout > > To my shock and awe, I was informed Hemphill is still in business (albeit > somewhat 'under the radar'): > > https://www.facebook.com/HealeyHaven/ > > I've got a couple new hubs sitting on the shelf; is there a way to tell if > they're defective before installing (I don't have access to a lathe or > similar)? > > Bob > > > From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Wed Apr 19 13:28:25 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 20:28:25 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Generator swap References: <000401d2b8e2$380950e0$a81bf2a0$@homecall.co.uk> <7DE00787-FD66-4B03-AEA9-BF8A9E71ED19@gmail.com> <1457635211.3853969.1492627447752@mail.yahoo.com> Very probably. Simon From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: 19 April 2017 19:44 To: Chris Dimmock ; Simon Lachlan Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Generator swap Are there no businesses in France that can rebuild a generator? Mike MacLean Hi Simon, The BJ8 bracket/ C42 generator mounting points are different to the earlier bigger ones. I.e. The distance between the 2 lugs on the block side plate are different to the earlier block side plate; and the distance between the lugs on the generators themselves are different. I don't know if you can shim them up with washers to adapt one to the other - and more importantly, if you do, I don't know if the pulley lines up with the water pump & crank pulleys. So - I know they are different. But I've never tried to adapt one to fit the other. Maybe someone else has? I'll send you some pics tomorrow. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone Hi, I have a MkII BT7 fitted with an alternator. I still have the generator, C45 I think, and it?s got new brushes, bearings etc. Works well. My nephew?s car in Paris, being a BJ8, has a C42. Slightly higher output. Now, my question is this, my never having seen both together:- Can I swap my BT7 genny into his BJ8?? Are they the same size so will fit onto the mountings? Are the electrical connections the same? Any other thoughts? We haven?t determined that his genny is at fault yet, but it?s looking likely. Conceivably, I?ll fly over and give him a hand. Carrying a genny, meter etcetc by air won?t be too easy these days. (Security issues). But carrying the wrong one would be heartbreaking. If you see what I mean! The plan is for the BJ8 to come over to the UK in early July. We can get his dead genny swapped or refurbished by then. OR, if you all tell me that the units are not physically interchangeable, I could take over the correct one (exchange unit) from one of the suppliers and bring back his dead one. Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dwflagg at juno.com Wed Apr 19 14:30:23 2017 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 20:30:23 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Generator swap Why not just rebuild your nephew's generator? Hi Simon,The BJ8 bracket/ C42 generator mounting points are different to the earlier bigger ones. I.e. The distance between the 2 lugs on the block side plate are different to the earlier block side plate; and the distance between the lugs on the generators themselves are different. I don't know if you can shim them up with washers to adapt one to the other - and more importantly, if you do, I don't know if the pulley lines up with the water pump & crank pulleys. So - I know they are different. But I've never tried to adapt one to fit the other. Maybe someone else has?I'll send you some pics tomorrow. BestChris Sent from my iPhone On 19 Apr. 2017, at 5:54 pm, Simon Lachlan wrote: Hi,I have a MkII BT7 fitted with an alternator. I still have the generator, C45 I think, and it’s got new brushes, bearings etc. Works well.My nephew’s car in Paris, being a BJ8, has a C42. Slightly higher output.Now, my question is this, my never having seen both together:-Can I swap my BT7 genny into his BJ8?? Are they the same size so will fit onto the mountings?Are the electrical connections the same?Any other thoughts?We haven’t determined that his genny is at fault yet, but it’s looking likely. Conceivably, I’ll fly over and give him a hand. Carrying a genny, meter etcetc by air won’t be too easy these days. (Security issues). But carrying the wrong one would be heartbreaking. If you see what I mean!The plan is for the BJ8 to come over to the UK in early July. We can get his dead genny swapped or refurbished by then.OR, if you all tell me that the units are not physically interchangeable, I could take over the correct one (exchange unit) from one of the suppliers and bring back his dead one.Simon _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ____________________________________________________________ Police Urge Americans to Carry This With Them at All Times The Observer http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58f7c90f830f5490f69ddst03duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah3000me at gmail.com Wed Apr 19 17:55:13 2017 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 19:55:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Front Hub Runout References: <027c01d2b92f$ae299d50$0a7cd7f0$@rr.com> <8ce8ba89-9d07-4352-d2cf-a6485124155d@comcast.net> Got mine from Autofarm a couple of years ago, and they were fine. - Tom On Wed, Apr 19, 2017 at 3:20 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I got mine from British Wire Wheel after Bruce E. sold but before they > went tango uniform, on the assumption they would sell a credible product. > > To Moss's credit, they do at least try to sell a decent product, and > correct issues if they can. Michael Grant, their technical support guru > last I checked, is a Big Healey owner and makes a concerted effort to get > as good quality as he can. But, if all they can get is crappy Chinese > rubber parts, for instance, they either sell them or we have to do without > altogether. > > NFI (but did visit their shop once). > > Bob > > > > On 4/19/2017 10:09 AM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > >> I had heard Hemphill was back in business, but I had hoped it was only an >> "alternative fact". >> I don't know of any good way of determining if the hubs are bad or not >> except by installing them. The only reason I bought from him in the first >> place was that not too long before someone posted to the list that the hub >> he bought from Moss was defective (bearing cavities machined oversize), >> and >> I wanted to avoid getting one of those. And I was passing by his place >> on a >> business trip so it was convenient. As it turned out, I replaced the bad >> Hemphill hub with a good one from Moss. >> >> Steve Byers >> HBJ8L/36666 >> BJ8 Registry >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> Havelock, NC >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] >> Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 12:33 PM >> To: BJ8Healeys; healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Hub Runout >> >> To my shock and awe, I was informed Hemphill is still in business (albeit >> somewhat 'under the radar'): >> >> https://www.facebook.com/HealeyHaven/ >> >> I've got a couple new hubs sitting on the shelf; is there a way to tell if >> they're defective before installing (I don't have access to a lathe or >> similar)? >> >> Bob >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Apr 19 19:56:01 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2017 21:56:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Front Hub Runout References: <027c01d2b92f$ae299d50$0a7cd7f0$@rr.com> Folks Before we wreck the reputation of a guy who stayed in the business when many others did not, I recall a time in the 60?s when you hoped to find a US BMC dealer that would order you a part for your Healey and then the wait of sometimes months to get it, maybe. At one time I waited 6 months for a 100 water pump to arrive from England. Then the 1970?s when the dealer parts were drying up and the Mom and Pop salvage yard/some new parts/ some used parts sales guy helped supply the parts. They did because they spent their money and bought up spares when and where they could. Then there was the 1980?s when guys were trying to get aftermarket parts made but the manufacturers were terrible with originality and quality. It was a tough time to restore cars then. I remember getting parts I needed from Healey Haven at fair prices and when I needed. Believe they started in about 1973 or 74. We modeled a much smaller parts business in Hawaii after the guys who were doing the same thing on the US Mainland. Gather the parts to keep cars on the road. We operated that as a part time affair, ?, 1977 until 2011. Even hauled back 19,000 pounds of Healey bits and several cars when we returned to Pennsylvania at retirement. Is every deal we make with someone perfect every time? No but I was glad to get what I needed most of the time. Oh and if you think you make lots of money on spare Healey parts, I have a piece of land for sale in Florida! Really, I do!!! Aloha Perry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From RFBegani at speakeasy.net Thu Apr 20 02:53:38 2017 From: RFBegani at speakeasy.net (Robert F. Begani) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2017 04:53:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Parts I just loved Perry's detailed accurate report on the history of finding parts for our Healey's. On that subject, last spring I removed the engine in my BJ8 and had it machined. My good friend who is a retired machinist and I assembled it and then I left Florida for the summer. He finished it and put it in my garage. So after a year of scrubbing the oil and grease from the engine bay , frame, touch up painting and so on we are installing the engine and trans next week. During our discussions this week about did you???, he said "did I tell you about the water pump?" It seems the frame of the pump did not meet the opening on the engine. As a machinist he always checks to see if one part is a mirror image of the other part when joining two parts. He ground out 3/4" from one side of the pump opening. He suggests the engine might run cooler with a larger flow of water through the pump which was purchased and installed 5 years ago from a well-known supplier so I did not replace it on the engine rebuild. So much for today's parts! Still they are better and easier to obtain than days gone by. Bob Begani BJ8 67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 20 07:54:37 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2017 06:54:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Parts References: <069901d2b9b3$9b133ee0$d139bca0$@speakeasy.net> If it's a County brand pump, beware. I got 60K miles on one, but when it started to leak I replaced it with a quality rebuild. Unfortunately, the rubber bellows on the seal split on a road trip and I had Moss overnight a new pump (County) which I installed in a motel parking lot. On first start, the shaft separated and the fan went into my radiator, causing a leak. Overnighted another--with a new radiator--and it arrived with a broken shaft, even though I had instructed Moss to inspect it carefully before shipping. Had to trailer the car home from Green River, WY. Moss made good on the parts and split the cost of the trailer with me. Bob On 4/20/2017 1:53 AM, Robert F. Begani wrote: > > I just loved Perry?s detailed accurate report on the history of > finding parts for our Healey?s. > > On that subject, last spring I removed the engine in my BJ8 and had it > machined. My good friend who is a retired machinist and I assembled > it and then I left Florida for the summer. He finished it and put it > in my garage. So after a year of scrubbing the oil and grease from the > engine bay , frame, touch up painting and so on we are installing the > engine and trans next week. During our discussions this week about > did you???, he said ?did I tell you about the water pump?? > > It seems the frame of the pump did not meet the opening on the > engine. As a machinist he always checks to see if one part is a > mirror image of the other part when joining two parts. He ground out > 3/4? from one side of the pump opening. He suggests the engine might > run cooler with a larger flow of water through the pump which was > purchased and installed 5 years ago from a well-known supplier so I > did not replace it on the engine rebuild. So much for today?s parts! > > Still they are better and easier to obtain than days gone by. > > Bob Begani > > BJ8 67 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0352.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1283871 bytes Desc: not available URL: From shepard7107 at verizon.net Thu Apr 20 09:00:52 2017 From: shepard7107 at verizon.net (Michael Shepard) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2017 10:00:52 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Was Hub Runout, now HHH and Healey Parts An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 67healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 20 14:37:52 2017 From: 67healey at gmail.com (Healey) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2017 13:37:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear License Plate Mounting Hi, On my late 67 BJ8, the license plate bracket currently attaches directly to the rear bumper. However, there are also two holes on the bottom of the rear shroud that have bolts in them. Are the holes / bolts on the shroud just a left over from a previous method of installing the bracket? Or is that actually the correct place for the bracket to be installed on? Second question - to avoid a continued bombing of the list with questions about what are the correct colors & what current paints were used for different parts - does the concours guidelines get to this level of detail? or is it more like part X should be "flat black" etc? Thanks as usual, Neil -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Thu Apr 20 14:46:02 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2017 16:46:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Speedo part wanted In the process of prying the needle from the speedo face, the plastic needle separated from the "T" shaped metal piece that it is attached to. (lesson learned when doing this---don't pry on the plastic of the needle--make sure you pry on the underneath metal part). So---does anyone have a spare needle that has the metal part attached that you would be willing to part with? Thanks tom From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 20 17:14:47 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2017 16:14:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump Boot I bought the rubber boot (Moss# 282-015) for my BN2's fuel pump. Now, I'm having second thoughts on installing; concerned it may cause the pump solenoid to overheat. Anyone using one, and, if so, have you experienced any issues? TIA, Bob From editorgary at aol.com Thu Apr 20 17:35:06 2017 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2017 19:35:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Finding a 3000 Mk III near Palmdale, CA References: Can anyone help out Jonathan Stein and Hagerty Magazine? If so, would you contact him directly, but copy me on your response? Thank you, Gary Gary Anderson Registrar, Austin-Healey Concours Registry -----Original Message----- From: Jonathan Stein To: editorgary Sent: Thu, Apr 20, 2017 2:31 pm Subject: Finding a 3000 Mk III near Palmdale, CA Hi Gary: I hope that all is well in your world. For a photo shoot on May 2 we need to find a 3000 Mk III BJ8 Phase 2 Healey. Do you know of one with 50-100 miles of Palmdale? I?d really appreciate your help. Jonathan Jonathan A. Stein >> Editor and Historian >> Hagerty Magazine WWW.HAGERTY.COM | 141 RIVER'S EDGE DR., SUITE 200, TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684 [cid:A691AD0E-4154-4CE4-B55E-68683DECF9EB] This communication, including attachments, is intended only for the use of the designated recipient(s). Any dissemination, copying, or disclosure of this communication is prohibited without express written authorization. If you received this communication in error, please immediately notify us by telephone at 231 933-3798, destroy the original message and all copies, and permanently delete any electronic copies. Thank you. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Apr 20 18:39:48 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2017 20:39:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear License Plate Mounting References: The license plate bracket for USA cars was moved from the rear shroud under the bumper to the bumper itself at body 79900, which is approximately chassis 349XX. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC TARHEELY license plate From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Healey Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 4:38 PM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Rear License Plate Mounting Hi, On my late 67 BJ8, the license plate bracket currently attaches directly to the rear bumper. However, there are also two holes on the bottom of the rear shroud that have bolts in them. Are the holes / bolts on the shroud just a left over from a previous method of installing the bracket? Or is that actually the correct place for the bracket to be installed on? Second question - to avoid a continued bombing of the list with questions about what are the correct colors & what current paints were used for different parts - does the concours guidelines get to this level of detail? or is it more like part X should be "flat black" etc? Thanks as usual, Neil -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 19755 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Thu Apr 20 18:42:12 2017 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2017 17:42:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear License Plate Mounting References: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Apr 20 20:33:38 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2017 19:33:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?contact?= mike salter, contact me off list. From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Apr 21 02:16:08 2017 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 10:16:08 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Speedo part wanted References: <20170420164602.FG8T2.489.root@pamxwww07-z01> Any picture of the needle and the total length? I have various Smiths/Jaeger speedo's/tacho's lying about and perhaps there is an identical one amongst them. Anyway you could probably araldite the needle back to the small bush. Kees Oudesluijs > Op 20-4-2017 om 22:46 schreef Tom Felts: > In the process of prying the needle from the speedo face, the plastic needle separated from the "T" shaped metal piece that it is attached to. (lesson learned when doing this---don't pry on the plastic of the needle--make sure you pry on the underneath metal part). > > So---does anyone have a spare needle that has the metal part attached that you would be willing to part with? > > Thanks > tom > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Apr 21 08:12:32 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 10:12:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap Listers, I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that it doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. As the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A distributor for push on plug wires. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 21 10:07:54 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 09:07:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> I can't find the sources, but believe I've heard/read from several that the top-loader cap for a TR6 will work (for either/both a 6A and a 25D(?)). Bob On 4/21/2017 7:12 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that > it doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. > As the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the > distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A > distributor for push on plug wires. > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 21 11:06:37 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 10:06:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> Bob, Make a carbon wire to install when setting the timing on the #1 plug wire. The replace it with the copper core wire to drive the car. This on the only way I have found to check the timing here in the shop David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:12 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap Listers, I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that it doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. As the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A distributor for push on plug wires. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Apr 21 11:54:21 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 18:54:21 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <4108dec0-0915-e2bb-0171-c26cfe0e1588@comcast.net> Yes, I've heard the same. See from my archives:- ""S.D.Lachlan From: Agoura Jim [bjate at pacbell.net] Sent: Monday, December 14, 1998 8:12 PM To: Editorgary at aol.com Cc: STOCKLAND at aol.com; owner-healeys at autox.team.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Distributor Cap Gary et al. The 'real' distributor cap that accepts 'modern' ignition wires is the Triumph TR6 cap. Its interchangable for the 6 cyliner Healeys and you don't have to mess with screws going through the wire and separating the carbon (or whatever it is) conductor. Jim Agoura, CA"" OR:- ""From: owner-healeys at autox.team.net on behalf of Doug Newton [dnewton at nappco.com] Sent: 07 July 2005 14:00 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healey 6 Cylinder Distributor Caps and Plug Wires If there is anyone out there who is tired of messing around with a stock Healey 6 Cylinder Distributor Cap and "cut to fit" Spark Plug Wires, you can easily change to a regular style distributor cap that uses "standard plug wires" (no cutting or screwing a cone point screw to break the insulation) by going to a parts house and ask for a distributor cap that fits a 1969 to 1975 Jaguar XJ6 2.8 or 4.2 size motor. It will fit perfectly on the Healey Distributor Housing and you can use all the other stock parts (rotors, points, and condensers). I made the conversion to my '65 BJ8 and it runs better now than it ever has. The cap should be less than $30.00. If memory serves me correct, the Lucas Part Number for the Distributor Cap I purchased is DDB 117, but I feel confident that there are several other brands out there to choose from. The only other thing you will need to buy is a regular set of standard 6 cylinder plug wires with standard fittings on the distributor cap end. I hope this info works as well for you as it did for me.. Doug"" There you go, Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 21 April 2017 17:08 To: Bob Haskell ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap I can't find the sources, but believe I've heard/read from several that the top-loader cap for a TR6 will work (for either/both a 6A and a 25D(?)). Bob From al at bighealey.org Fri Apr 21 13:04:36 2017 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 15:04:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] More on fuel sender References: <1561381303.300249.1492353104433.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1561381303.300249.1492353104433@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks, Stephen. I will play with it this weekend. What I think I failed to make clear when I first wrote to the list is that I don?t really care which end has the terminal. What I was trying to determine is whether I had been shipped the entirely wrong unit. If so, it would have been better to exchange it for the correct unit before commencing to modify it. Thanks again. Al Fuller al at bighealey dot org '65 BJ-8 '85 Rx-7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2017 10:32 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] More on fuel sender I really don't want to add confusion to this thread, but I must. This morning I'm looking at my original sender (Terminal and float to the front of the car) beside the replacement (Terminal in one direction, float in the other). So, sorry Al, but it's now apparent that the replacements have a different set-up. This means that to get the float in the right place, you have to have the terminal towards the back of the car, and the float forward. I'm hoping this will clear things up. I didn't see it until I had the two side by side. Stephen, BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 21 13:28:12 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 12:28:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> The other option would be on a BJ8 you can use the TR6 distributor cap and carbon wires. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: David Nock BCS Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 10:06 AM To: Healey List ; Bob Haskell Subject: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap Bob, Make a carbon wire to install when setting the timing on the #1 plug wire. The replace it with the copper core wire to drive the car. This on the only way I have found to check the timing here in the shop David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:12 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap Listers, I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that it doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. As the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A distributor for push on plug wires. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Apr 21 13:35:37 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 15:35:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> David, The instruction manual suggested the same. I wasn't sure how well the carbon wire would work with the screw style cap. Thanks. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/21/2017 01:06 PM, David Nock BCS wrote: > Bob, Make a carbon wire to install when setting the timing on the #1 > plug wire. The replace it with the copper core wire to drive the car. > > This on the only way I have found to check the timing here in the shop > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell > Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:12 AM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap > > Listers, > > I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that it > doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. As > the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the > distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A > distributor for push on plug wires. > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > From theswed at hotmail.com Fri Apr 21 14:02:25 2017 From: theswed at hotmail.com (Kenny J) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 20:02:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Battery Question Question...Last July I replaced my battery. I drove my car a few times without issues. It's been a couple months since driving and went to start it today. I found out the battery was almost dead and cold not turn the car over. I went to connect the battery charger and noticed the cables on the battery were switched (neg was grounded) . My car is positive ground. How could the car start in the past with the cables reversed? Did I damage anything by doing that? I disconnected and removed the battery for charging. Thanks Kenny '61 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Apr 21 14:03:12 2017 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 16:03:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] test Mike MacLean tells me he can receive messages from the list, but cannot post. When he tries, he gets this error message: No mx record found for domain=autox.team.net Anyone know what that means, or how to fix it? Mark? Thanks! Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 21 14:49:49 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 13:49:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> brilliant! Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Apr 21, 2017 at 10:06 AM, David Nock BCS wrote: > Bob, Make a carbon wire to install when setting the timing on the #1 plug > wire. The replace it with the copper core wire to drive the car. > > This on the only way I have found to check the timing here in the shop > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell > Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:12 AM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap > > Listers, > > I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that it > doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. As > the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the > distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A > distributor for push on plug wires. > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 21 19:01:01 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2017 18:01:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Battery Question References: Sounds like you inadvertently performed a 'conversion to negative ground.' I think--well, obviously--the starter would work without being (re-)polarized, but the generator probably--well, obviously--would not. I presume--well, obviously--you have a fuel pump that doesn't care about polarity and you don't have an electronic ignition--like a Pertronix*--installed. My guess--and it's only a guess--is that your car will be OK once you correctly re-install your battery; although it might have sulphated--or something--with the 'reverse charging.' Just a SWAG (obviously). Bob * if you do have a Pertronix, you may be screwed. On 4/21/2017 1:02 PM, Kenny J wrote: > > Question...Last July I replaced my battery. I drove my car a few times > without issues. It's been a couple months since driving and went to > start it today. I found out the battery was almost dead and cold not > turn the car over. I went to connect the battery charger and noticed > the cables on the battery were switched (neg was grounded) . My car > is positive ground. How could the car start in the past with the > cables reversed? Did I damage anything by doing that? I disconnected > and removed the battery for charging. > > > Thanks > > > Kenny > > '61 BT7 > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sat Apr 22 01:55:34 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2017 09:55:34 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> <58FA5F09.5090202@earthlink.net> Installing carbon ignition wires in your classic sports car, Austin-Healey, Jaguar, MG, Triumph, etc. are the worst you can do anyway. They are prone to fail after some period of time and cause intermittent interruptions. The engine bay and the area where the wires run close to the engine, exhaust, etc. are much too hot. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap Datum: 2017-04-22T02:10:46+0200 Von: "Bob Haskell" An: "David Nock BCS" , "Healey List" David, The instruction manual suggested the same. I wasn't sure how well the carbon wire would work with the screw style cap. Thanks. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/21/2017 01:06 PM, David Nock BCS wrote: > Bob, Make a carbon wire to install when setting the timing on the #1 > plug wire. The replace it with the copper core wire to drive the car. > > This on the only way I have found to check the timing here in the shop > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell > Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:12 AM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap > > Listers, > > I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that it > doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. As > the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the > distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A > distributor for push on plug wires. > > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Apr 22 06:55:11 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2017 08:55:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> <58FA5F09.5090202@earthlink.net> <1492847734833.3462937.648296e38db21baa4fbec6bfb139633e8bee0167@spica.telekom.de> Joesf, I wasn't planning to change to carbon ignition wires for driving, just for checking the timing. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/22/2017 03:55 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > Installing carbon ignition wires in your classic sports car, Austin-Healey, Jaguar, MG, Triumph, etc. are the worst you can do anyway. They are prone to fail after some period of time and cause intermittent interruptions. The engine bay and the area where the wires run close to the engine, exhaust, etc. are much too hot. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap > Datum: 2017-04-22T02:10:46+0200 > Von: "Bob Haskell" > An: "David Nock BCS" , "Healey List" > > David, > > The instruction manual suggested the same. I wasn't sure how well the > carbon wire would work with the screw style cap. Thanks. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 04/21/2017 01:06 PM, David Nock BCS wrote: >> Bob, Make a carbon wire to install when setting the timing on the #1 >> plug wire. The replace it with the copper core wire to drive the car. >> >> This on the only way I have found to check the timing here in the shop >> >> >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> 209-948-8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell >> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:12 AM >> To: Healey List >> Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap >> >> Listers, >> >> I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that it >> doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. As >> the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the >> distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A >> distributor for push on plug wires. >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert at t-online.de > > ? > From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Apr 22 08:05:30 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2017 00:05:30 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 50 years ago today, in an Austin Healey 3000 ... 50 years ago today, April 23rd, 1967, Richard and Trish Steil set off on their honeymoon in their Black and white Austin Healey 3000. It was more than just a holiday, they were emigrating from England to Australia, in their BJ8. No support crew, just a couple of newlyweds on their honeymoon in a nearly new BJ8, who spent the next 3 months driving their Healey half way across the world. What an amazing adventure! I spoke to them yesterday, and wished them a happy 50th wedding anniversary. http://www.myaustinhealey.com/london-to-sydney-healey.html Best Chris Dimmock -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sat Apr 22 08:50:15 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2017 16:50:15 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> <58FA5F09.5090202@earthlink.net> <1492847734833.3462937.648296e38db21baa4fbec6bfb139633e8bee0167@spica.telekom.de> <58FB52AF.4080506@earthlink.net> Bob, >From time to time I read on this list some tend to swap to modern technology gimmicks. I know from experience and from my job as an electro-technology specialist, its not always good to do so and just wanted to highlight that you shouldn?t change to carbon with ignition wires. Joseff Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: distributor cap Datum: 2017-04-22T14:55:14+0200 Von: "Bob Haskell" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "Healey List" Joesf, I wasn't planning to change to carbon ignition wires for driving, just for checking the timing. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/22/2017 03:55 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > Installing carbon ignition wires in your classic sports car, Austin-Healey, Jaguar, MG, Triumph, etc. are the worst you can do anyway. They are prone to fail after some period of time and cause intermittent interruptions. The engine bay and the area where the wires run close to the engine, exhaust, etc. are much too hot. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > > > ? From m.brouillette at comcast.net Sat Apr 22 10:38:25 2017 From: m.brouillette at comcast.net (mike brouillette) Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2017 12:38:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 steel wheel lug nuts Guys, I have one of those rare bird 1959 BT7 steel wheel car and I need 5 lug nuts. Does anyone have any lying around they want to sell or can someone tell me what they were compatible with or threads in them? Thanks, Mike Brouillette 59 BT7 From Ed at wadsworthoneal.com Sat Apr 22 13:41:29 2017 From: Ed at wadsworthoneal.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2017 19:41:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 steel wheel lug nuts References: <043b01d2bb86$ddb51690$991f43b0$@comcast.net> I believe they are 7/16 saw fine. Get them at NAPA. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 22, 2017, at 2:07 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > Guys, > > I have one of those rare bird 1959 BT7 steel wheel car and I need 5 lug nuts. Does anyone have any lying around they want to sell or can someone tell me what they were compatible with or threads in them? > > Thanks, > Mike Brouillette > 59 BT7 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ed at wadsworthoneal.com > From waschu2 at gmail.com Sat Apr 22 15:25:31 2017 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2017 17:25:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Differential ring and pinion replacement Hello, My son and I are trying to get our late 1967 Healey back on the road. While buying parts to replace our bent rear end housing I bought a Mowog NOS 3.5 differential. The ring and pinion shimming needs to be checked because the pinion nut and the carrier nuts were all loose. The gears show no wear pattern at all and are all original Mowog parts. The housing is stamped 11/39 also. I built a couple of differentials for friends with Lampert gears years ago and there was a great web site that was a good reference on setting up the shimming. Problem is now that I need it for myself I can't find it. It was not the Crowley site. I thought I saved it on my computer,but I cannot find it. I do have the shop manual but this link was informative about how to check the shimming without the factory tools. Anyone have the link? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From randerson33 at triad.rr.com Sat Apr 22 18:27:03 2017 From: randerson33 at triad.rr.com (randerson33) Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2017 20:27:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 steel wheel lug nuts Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S?4, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Ed O'Neal Date: 04/22/2017 3:41 PM (GMT-05:00) To: mike brouillette Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 steel wheel lug nuts I believe they are 7/16 saw fine. Get them at NAPA. Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 22, 2017, at 2:07 PM, mike brouillette wrote: > > Guys, > >????????????? I have one of those rare bird? 1959 BT7 steel wheel car and I need 5 lug nuts.? Does anyone have any lying around they want to sell or can someone tell me what they were compatible with or threads in them? > > Thanks, > Mike Brouillette > 59 BT7 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ed at wadsworthoneal.com > _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sat Apr 22 21:18:55 2017 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2017 13:18:55 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 steel wheel lug nuts References: <043b01d2bb86$ddb51690$991f43b0$@comcast.net> G'day Mike I have some spares if you're unable to find any closer to home - I'd be happy to send them for the cost of postage. Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz -----Original Message----- From: mike brouillette Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2017 2:38 AM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 steel wheel lug nuts Guys, I have one of those rare bird 1959 BT7 steel wheel car and I need 5 lug nuts. Does anyone have any lying around they want to sell or can someone tell me what they were compatible with or threads in them? Thanks, Mike Brouillette 59 BT7 _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 23 08:39:04 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock British Car Specialists) Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2017 07:39:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> <58FA5F09.5090202@earthlink.net> <1492847734833.3462937.648296e38db21baa4fbec6bfb139633e8bee0167@spica.telekom.de> <58FB52AF.4080506@earthlink.net> The carbon wire will not last if you leave it there . However if you I stall one temporarily to set the timing and the replace it with the copper wire. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 Enjoy www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs . . Sent from my iPad > On Apr 22, 2017, at 5:55 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > Joesf, > > I wasn't planning to change to carbon ignition wires for driving, just for checking the timing. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > >> On 04/22/2017 03:55 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: >> Installing carbon ignition wires in your classic sports car, Austin-Healey, Jaguar, MG, Triumph, etc. are the worst you can do anyway. They are prone to fail after some period of time and cause intermittent interruptions. The engine bay and the area where the wires run close to the engine, exhaust, etc. are much too hot. >> >> Josef Eckert >> Konigswinter/Germany >> >> >> >> -----Original-Nachricht----- >> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap >> Datum: 2017-04-22T02:10:46+0200 >> Von: "Bob Haskell" >> An: "David Nock BCS" , "Healey List" >> >> David, >> >> The instruction manual suggested the same. I wasn't sure how well the >> carbon wire would work with the screw style cap. Thanks. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >> >>> On 04/21/2017 01:06 PM, David Nock BCS wrote: >>> Bob, Make a carbon wire to install when setting the timing on the #1 >>> plug wire. The replace it with the copper core wire to drive the car. >>> >>> This on the only way I have found to check the timing here in the shop >>> >>> >>> >>> David Nock >>> British Car Specialists >>> 209-948-8767 >>> www.britishcarspecialists.com >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell >>> Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:12 AM >>> To: Healey List >>> Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap >>> >>> Listers, >>> >>> I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that it >>> doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. As >>> the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the >>> distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A >>> distributor for push on plug wires. >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Bob Haskell >>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar >>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert at t-online.de >> >> ? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bengaard at 850r.dk Mon Apr 24 10:52:46 2017 From: bengaard at 850r.dk (Niels Bengaard) Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2017 18:52:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> <58FA5F09.5090202@earthlink.net> <1492847734833.3462937.648296e38db21baa4fbec6bfb139633e8bee0167@spica.telekom.de> <58FB52AF.4080506@earthlink.net> <5DAC6D5E-B5D1-4498-ABA4-DAEB4C3F479A@sbcglobal.net> I have the same problem with checking, nice to see there is a solution. Just to be 100% sure, which carbon wire should I buy, what car does it come from? Niels Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af David Nock British Car Specialists Sendt: 23. april 2017 16:39 Til: Bob Haskell Cc: Healey List Emne: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap The carbon wire will not last if you leave it there . However if you I stall one temporarily to set the timing and the replace it with the copper wire. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 Enjoy www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs . . Sent from my iPad On Apr 22, 2017, at 5:55 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: Joesf, I wasn't planning to change to carbon ignition wires for driving, just for checking the timing. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/22/2017 03:55 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: Installing carbon ignition wires in your classic sports car, Austin-Healey, Jaguar, MG, Triumph, etc. are the worst you can do anyway. They are prone to fail after some period of time and cause intermittent interruptions. The engine bay and the area where the wires run close to the engine, exhaust, etc. are much too hot. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap Datum: 2017-04-22T02:10:46+0200 Von: "Bob Haskell" An: "David Nock BCS" , "Healey List" David, The instruction manual suggested the same. I wasn't sure how well the carbon wire would work with the screw style cap. Thanks. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/21/2017 01:06 PM, David Nock BCS wrote: Bob, Make a carbon wire to install when setting the timing on the #1 plug wire. The replace it with the copper core wire to drive the car. This on the only way I have found to check the timing here in the shop David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:12 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap Listers, I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that it doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. As the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A distributor for push on plug wires. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 24 11:08:39 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2017 10:08:39 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> <58FA5F09.5090202@earthlink.net> <1492847734833.3462937.648296e38db21baa4fbec6bfb139633e8bee0167@spica.telekom.de> <58FB52AF.4080506@earthlink.net> <5DAC6D5E-B5D1-4498-ABA4-DAEB4C3F479A@sbcglobal.net> <000601d2bd1b$33236510$996a2f30$@dk> Just go to the local parts house and get a piece of bulk carbon plug wire and a crimp on plug end terminal. Then it can be installed into the cap temporarily when you are setting the timing. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Niels Bengaard Sent: Monday, April 24, 2017 9:52 AM To: 'David Nock British Car Specialists' Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: SV: [Healeys] distributor cap I have the same problem with checking, nice to see there is a solution. Just to be 100% sure, which carbon wire should I buy, what car does it come from? Niels Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] P? vegne af David Nock British Car Specialists Sendt: 23. april 2017 16:39 Til: Bob Haskell Cc: Healey List Emne: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap The carbon wire will not last if you leave it there . However if you I stall one temporarily to set the timing and the replace it with the copper wire. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 Enjoy www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs . . Sent from my iPad On Apr 22, 2017, at 5:55 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: Joesf, I wasn't planning to change to carbon ignition wires for driving, just for checking the timing. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/22/2017 03:55 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: Installing carbon ignition wires in your classic sports car, Austin-Healey, Jaguar, MG, Triumph, etc. are the worst you can do anyway. They are prone to fail after some period of time and cause intermittent interruptions. The engine bay and the area where the wires run close to the engine, exhaust, etc. are much too hot. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap Datum: 2017-04-22T02:10:46+0200 Von: "Bob Haskell" An: "David Nock BCS" , "Healey List" David, The instruction manual suggested the same. I wasn't sure how well the carbon wire would work with the screw style cap. Thanks. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/21/2017 01:06 PM, David Nock BCS wrote: Bob, Make a carbon wire to install when setting the timing on the #1 plug wire. The replace it with the copper core wire to drive the car. This on the only way I have found to check the timing here in the shop David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:12 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap Listers, I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that it doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. As the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A distributor for push on plug wires. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.teamnet/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.teamnet/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert at t-online.de ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.teamnet/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 24 11:57:09 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2017 10:57:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> <58FA5F09.5090202@earthlink.net> <1492847734833.3462937.648296e38db21baa4fbec6bfb139633e8bee0167@spica.telekom.de> <58FB52AF.4080506@earthlink.net> <5DAC6D5E-B5D1-4498-ABA4-DAEB4C3F479A@sbcglobal.net> <000601d2bd1b$33236510$996a2f30$@dk> just buy a 2' length of bulk wire and connector ends and make one yourself. or from a straight 6cyl chevy eng. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Apr 24, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Niels Bengaard wrote: > I have the same problem with checking, nice to see there is a solution. > > Just to be 100% sure, which carbon wire should I buy, what car does it > come from? > > > > Niels > > > > *Fra:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *P? vegne af *David > Nock British Car Specialists > *Sendt:* 23. april 2017 16:39 > *Til:* Bob Haskell > *Cc:* Healey List > *Emne:* Re: [Healeys] distributor cap > > > > The carbon wire will not last if you leave it there > > . However if you I stall one temporarily to set the timing and the replace > it with the copper wire. > > > > David Nock > > British Car Specialists > > Stockton Ca 95205 > > 209-948-8767 > > > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > > > Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009 > > Enjoy > > www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs > > . > > . > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Apr 22, 2017, at 5:55 AM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > Joesf, > > I wasn't planning to change to carbon ignition wires for driving, just for > checking the timing. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > On 04/22/2017 03:55 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote: > > Installing carbon ignition wires in your classic sports car, > Austin-Healey, Jaguar, MG, Triumph, etc. are the worst you can do anyway. > They are prone to fail after some period of time and cause intermittent > interruptions. The engine bay and the area where the wires run close to the > engine, exhaust, etc. are much too hot. > > > > Josef Eckert > > Konigswinter/Germany > > > > > > > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] distributor cap > > Datum: 2017-04-22T02:10:46+0200 > > Von: "Bob Haskell" > > An: "David Nock BCS" , "Healey List" < > healeys at autox.team.net> > > > > David, > > > > The instruction manual suggested the same. I wasn't sure how well the > > carbon wire would work with the screw style cap. Thanks. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Bob Haskell > > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > > > On 04/21/2017 01:06 PM, David Nock BCS wrote: > > Bob, Make a carbon wire to install when setting the timing on the #1 > > plug wire. The replace it with the copper core wire to drive the car. > > > > This on the only way I have found to check the timing here in the shop > > > > > > > > David Nock > > British Car Specialists > > 209-948-8767 <(209)%20948-8767> > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Haskell > > Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 7:12 AM > > To: Healey List > > Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap > > > > Listers, > > > > I bought a used Snap On timing light and the instructions state that it > > doesn't work with solid copper core spark plug wires. It doesn't. As > > the carbon wires don't work well with the screw terminals in the > > distributor cap, I was wondering if there was a cap for the DM6A > > distributor for push on plug wires. > > > > > > Cheers, > > > > Bob Haskell > > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/josef-eckert at t-online.de > > > > ? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 24 13:48:27 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2017 12:48:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> <58FA5F09.5090202@earthlink.net> <1492847734833.3462937.648296e38db21baa4fbec6bfb139633e8bee0167@spica.telekom.de> <58FB52AF.4080506@earthlink.net> <5DAC6D5E-B5D1-4498-ABA4-DAEB4C3F479A@sbcglobal.net> <000601d2bd1b$33236510$996a2f30$@dk> You want 7mm wire, I believe. On 4/24/2017 10:57 AM, i erbs wrote: > just buy a 2' length of bulk wire and connector ends and make one > yourself. > or from a straight 6cyl chevy eng. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Apr 24 14:07:18 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2017 21:07:18 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] TR6 Distributor I Thought I sent some pics the other day. Saw a TR6 at a little show. Pics don't seem to have got back to me. Did anyone get them? Actually, no... does anyone want them? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Mon Apr 24 15:16:42 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2017 22:16:42 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: TR6 Distributor cap 3rd attempt. From: Simon Lachlan [mailto:simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk] Sent: 24 April 2017 07:53 To: 'Healey List' Subject: TR6 Distributor cap Was at a small local car show yesterday. (Dawlish, Devon, UK) Saw a TR6 with bonnet open and took these 3 shots for ?? who was asking about TR6 distributors. Of course, I don't know if this is a standard TR6 unit. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_6922.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3734376 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_6923.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 3509214 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 24 16:17:15 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2017 15:17:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <7C181A06BFB74F41BA6B85AEB2B0E556@DavidNockHP> <58FA5F09.5090202@earthlink.net> <1492847734833.3462937.648296e38db21baa4fbec6bfb139633e8bee0167@spica.telekom.de> <58FB52AF.4080506@earthlink.net> <5DAC6D5E-B5D1-4498-ABA4-DAEB4C3F479A@sbcglobal.net> <000601d2bd1b$33236510$996a2f30$@dk> Yes. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Apr 24, 2017 2:39 PM, "Bob Spidell" wrote: > You want 7mm wire, I believe. > > On 4/24/2017 10:57 AM, i erbs wrote: > > just buy a 2' length of bulk wire and connector ends and make one > yourself. > or from a straight 6cyl chevy eng. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Apr 24 21:39:51 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 11:39:51 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <4108dec0-0915-e2bb-0171-c26cfe0e1588@comcast.net> Bob - you are correct. The TR6 cap fits. My friend used to use it on his BJ8. Best, Alan On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 12:07 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > I can't find the sources, but believe I've heard/read from several that > the top-loader cap for a TR6 will work (for either/both a 6A and a 25D(?)). > > Bob > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Apr 25 03:54:00 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 05:54:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <4108dec0-0915-e2bb-0171-c26cfe0e1588@comcast.net> Bob/Alan, I understand, but haven't proved it to myself, that the TR6 cap will work for the 26D distributor fitted to the BJ7/8, but not for the DM6A distributor fitted to the earlier 6 cylinder roadsters. Martin Jay (UK distributor doctor) told me that a DM6A cap with push in leads never existed, but he's been thinking about making one. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/24/2017 11:39 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Bob - you are correct. The TR6 cap fits. My friend used to use it on > his BJ8. > > Best, > > Alan > > On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 12:07 AM, Bob Spidell > I can't find the sources, but believe I've heard/read from several > that the top-loader cap for a TR6 will work (for either/both a 6A > and a 25D(?)). > > Bob > From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 25 04:59:42 2017 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 18:59:42 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] distributor cap References: <58FA1350.70002@earthlink.net> <4108dec0-0915-e2bb-0171-c26cfe0e1588@comcast.net> <38b07bab-b52c-c94b-acfd-2572103ed89f@earthlink.net> ah sorry, yes you are right. On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 5:54 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Bob/Alan, > > I understand, but haven't proved it to myself, that the TR6 cap will work > for the 26D distributor fitted to the BJ7/8, but not for the DM6A > distributor fitted to the earlier 6 cylinder roadsters. Martin Jay (UK > distributor doctor) told me that a DM6A cap with push in leads never > existed, but he's been thinking about making one. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > AHCA 3000 MkI registrar > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Apr 25 09:33:15 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 15:33:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spring - BJ8 Gearbox Has anyone replaced the gear shifter retaining spring lately on a center shift 4 speed gearbox. I am replacing one now with a new spring and I am having a difficult time with it. I have replaced several in the past but cannot remember having such difficulty with it. It seems that the last "ring" of the spring is too large and it does not want to go in its place to fit the washer. Consequently I cannot even think of fitting the circlip into its groove. Jean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 25 10:47:06 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 09:47:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Spring - BJ8 Gearbox References: bigger hammer? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 8:33 AM, Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > Has anyone replaced the gear shifter retaining spring lately on a center > shift 4 speed gearbox. I am replacing one now with a new spring and I am > having a difficult time with it. I have replaced several in the past but > cannot remember having such difficulty with it. It seems that the last > "ring" of the spring is too large and it does not want to go in its place > to fit the washer. Consequently I cannot even think of fitting the circlip > into its groove. > > > Jean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 25 11:19:36 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 10:19:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Spring - BJ8 Gearbox References: Jean, I still have my original, and it's a bit of a pain to install--you need three hands--but nothing like this. Can only suggest you may have to grind the outer part of the 'last ring' to make it fit; doubt that would compromise performance or strength very much. Bob On 4/25/2017 9:47 AM, i erbs wrote: > bigger hammer? > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 8:33 AM, Jean Caron > > Has anyone replaced the gear shifter retaining spring lately on a > center shift 4 speed gearbox. I am replacing one now with a new > spring and I am having a difficult time with it. I have replaced > several in the past but cannot remember having such difficulty > with it. It seems that the last "ring" of the spring is too large > and it does not want to go in its place to fit the washer. > Consequently I cannot even think of fitting the circlip into its > groove. > > > Jean > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ruvino at ripnet.com Tue Apr 25 12:14:53 2017 From: ruvino at ripnet.com (ruvino at ripnet.com) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 14:14:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny What is a ball park price for a rebuilt tranny? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 25 13:37:13 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 12:37:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny References: <46457C59411A46A187C8D6480179FAFB@p6520f> where are you located. It does make a difference :( Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 11:14 AM, wrote: > What is a ball park price for a rebuilt tranny? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 25 13:43:30 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 12:43:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny References: <46457C59411A46A187C8D6480179FAFB@p6520f> <97D3C762CB9F4FDFB2ADF20A3E84513C@p6520f> I think others need to know. Transmission in Europe are more money than here. A complete rebuilt unit might cost as much as $7kUS. Like a rebuilt engine, how one defines a rebuild is fungible. I would want a complete parts list. I have one with 35K miles on it. I replaced the main shaft, all synchros, ball bearings, seals and gaskets. if I sold it I would want $4500 min, as I have a 5sp now, but my kids say they want to return it to stock some day. I pulled to make it easier for my wife and adult sons to drive. I do miss the overdrive though, not the no syncho first Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 12:40 PM, wrote: > ontario canada > > *From:* i erbs > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 25, 2017 3:37 PM > *To:* carl rubino > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Side shift tranny > > where are you located. It does make a difference :( > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 11:14 AM, wrote: > >> What is a ball park price for a rebuilt tranny? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Apr 25 13:49:58 2017 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 15:49:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny References: <46457C59411A46A187C8D6480179FAFB@p6520f> I have bought them for $150 but that isn't what your asking. Two parts that are the big ticket items are the cluster gear and first gear slider and hub. That could be $1500. Labor is at least another $500. Add in the little bits for another several hundred. Then the OD costs but you mentioned tranny so the OD is another topic. Perry Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 25, 2017, at 2:14 PM, wrote: > > What is a ball park price for a rebuilt tranny? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomfelts at windstream.net Tue Apr 25 14:07:28 2017 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 16:07:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Spring - BJ8 Gearbox I did it recently and to get the spring to stay compressed, I collapsed it in a vice then wrapped wire around it to keep it compressed------dropped it into the hole, placed the circlip then cut and withdrew the wire. Worked for me. tom ---- Jean Caron wrote: ============= Has anyone replaced the gear shifter retaining spring lately on a center shift 4 speed gearbox. I am replacing one now with a new spring and I am having a difficult time with it. I have replaced several in the past but cannot remember having such difficulty with it. It seems that the last "ring" of the spring is too large and it does not want to go in its place to fit the washer. Consequently I cannot even think of fitting the circlip into its groove. Jean From kentmclean at comcast.net Tue Apr 25 16:26:31 2017 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 18:26:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 on BarnFinds Stored 40 years, being sold on eBay. NFI. http://barnfinds.com/stored-40-years-1957-austin-healey-100-6/ http://www.ebay.com/itm/292094375557 - Kent McLean ?56 100 BN2 From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Apr 25 16:59:31 2017 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 22:59:31 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spring - BJ8 Gearbox References: , <20170425160728.YND0Z.1122.root@pamxwww07-z01> Tom, Great idea, never thought of trying something like that, will give it a try. Thanks to everyone on the List that sent some ideas. Cheers, Jean ________________________________ From: Tom Felts Sent: April 25, 2017 8:07 PM To: Jean Caron; AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spring - BJ8 Gearbox I did it recently and to get the spring to stay compressed, I collapsed it in a vice then wrapped wire around it to keep it compressed------dropped it into the hole, placed the circlip then cut and withdrew the wire. Worked for me. tom ---- Jean Caron wrote: ============= Has anyone replaced the gear shifter retaining spring lately on a center shift 4 speed gearbox. I am replacing one now with a new spring and I am having a difficult time with it. I have replaced several in the past but cannot remember having such difficulty with it. It seems that the last "ring" of the spring is too large and it does not want to go in its place to fit the washer. Consequently I cannot even think of fitting the circlip into its groove. Jean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyron at yahoo.com Tue Apr 25 17:04:42 2017 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 23:04:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny References: <46457C59411A46A187C8D6480179FAFB@p6520f> I've seen them advertised for $1275 plus shipping Ron59 BN6 From: "ruvino at ripnet.com" To: Healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2017 3:17 PM Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny What is a ball park price for a rebuilt tranny?_______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Tue Apr 25 17:17:20 2017 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike S) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 16:17:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Spring - BJ8 Gearbox References: <20170425160728.YND0Z.1122.root@pamxwww07-z01> Clever. I use a similar technique to reassemble the cluster on a derailleur. Wrap a string around the springs, and then slide it out. Mike BJ8 On 4/25/2017 1:07 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > I did it recently and to get the spring to stay compressed, I collapsed it in a vice then wrapped wire around it to keep it compressed------dropped it into the hole, placed the circlip then cut and withdrew the wire. Worked for me. > > tom > ---- Jean Caron wrote: > > ============= > Has anyone replaced the gear shifter retaining spring lately on a center shift 4 speed gearbox. I am replacing one now with a new spring and I am having a difficult time with it. I have replaced several in the past but cannot remember having such difficulty with it. It seems that the last "ring" of the spring is too large and it does not want to go in its place to fit the washer. Consequently I cannot even think of fitting the circlip into its groove. > > > Jean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > > -- Mike MGTD (long gone) BN1 (long gone) BN2-100M (gone but in good hands) BJ8 From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Apr 25 20:13:28 2017 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 19:13:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?spring?= i have also used small zip ties to hold the spring compressed, although i think wire does work better as it pull out from around the spring easier. From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Apr 25 22:57:28 2017 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2017 21:57:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny References: <46457C59411A46A187C8D6480179FAFB@p6520f> <1307920709.9733927.1493161482319@mail.yahoo.com> But be careful. I bought a BN7 sideshift box and it tore up two 1st and two cluster gears. I had Russ Thompson in Northridge, CA rebuild it and he found out it had an early reverse gear that has 1 less tooth, which tore up the 1st/reverse gear on the cluster, which in turn tore up 1st gear. Russ rebuilt with DWR parts?all the synchros, cluster, reverse and 1st gears. Able to keep 2nd, 3rd and 4th, as well as the input shaft. Expect to spend around $3K +/- for a quality job. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2017 4:05 PM To: ruvino at ripnet.com; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side shift tranny I've seen them advertised for $1275 plus shipping Ron 59 BN6 _____ Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2017 3:17 PM Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny What is a ball park price for a rebuilt tranny? _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Tue Apr 25 23:49:02 2017 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2017 17:49:02 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Spring - BJ8 Gearbox References: <3ab2490f-da43-379c-67ab-27252d1b040d@comcast.net> Jean, As Bob said, it can be a bit of a pain to install. I've done several in recent years and I usually 'chase' around the top of the spring with a wide-blade screwdriver, and repeated light taps from a hammer, until it is snug inside. If your retainer spring is a new after-market one and a bit oversize could you perhaps nip it up a little to a slightly smaller diameter with a bit of gentle persuasion in a vice? And, as Bob also mentioned, a third hand is most useful in this job to make sure the spring doesn't do it's 'jack-in-a-box' thing when it is ALMOST in place. Mark Ardmore, NZ _____ From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, 26 April 2017 5:20 a.m. To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spring - BJ8 Gearbox Jean, I still have my original, and it's a bit of a pain to install--you need three hands--but nothing like this. Can only suggest you may have to grind the outer part of the 'last ring' to make it fit; doubt that would compromise performance or strength very much. Bob On 4/25/2017 9:47 AM, i erbs wrote: bigger hammer? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 8:33 AM, Jean Caron wrote: Has anyone replaced the gear shifter retaining spring lately on a center shift 4 speed gearbox. I am replacing one now with a new spring and I am having a difficult time with it. I have replaced several in the past but cannot remember having such difficulty with it. It seems that the last "ring" of the spring is too large and it does not want to go in its place to fit the washer. Consequently I cannot even think of fitting the circlip into its groove. Jean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Apr 26 06:38:57 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2017 05:38:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Spring - BJ8 Gearbox References: <3ab2490f-da43-379c-67ab-27252d1b040d@comcast.net> I knew a hammer would work:) Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Apr 25, 2017 11:23 PM, "Mark Donaldson" wrote: > Jean, > > > > As Bob said, it can be a bit of a pain to install. I've done several in > recent years and I usually 'chase' around the top of the spring with a > wide-blade screwdriver, and repeated light taps from a hammer, until it is > snug inside. If your retainer spring is a new after-market one and a bit > oversize could you perhaps nip it up a little to a slightly smaller > diameter with a bit of gentle persuasion in a vice? > > > > And, as Bob also mentioned, a third hand is most useful in this job to > make sure the spring doesn't do it's 'jack-in-a-box' thing when it is > ALMOST in place. > > > > Mark > > Ardmore, NZ > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] > *Sent:* Wednesday, 26 April 2017 5:20 a.m. > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Spring - BJ8 Gearbox > > > > Jean, > > I still have my original, and it's a bit of a pain to install--you need > three hands--but nothing like this. Can only suggest you may have to grind > the outer part of the 'last ring' to make it fit; doubt that would > compromise performance or strength very much. > > Bob > > > > On 4/25/2017 9:47 AM, i erbs wrote: > > bigger hammer? > > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 8:33 AM, Jean Caron hotmail.com> wrote: > > Has anyone replaced the gear shifter retaining spring lately on a center > shift 4 speed gearbox. I am replacing one now with a new spring and I am > having a difficult time with it. I have replaced several in the past but > cannot remember having such difficulty with it. It seems that the last > "ring" of the spring is too large and it does not want to go in its place > to fit the washer. Consequently I cannot even think of fitting the circlip > into its groove. > > > > Jean > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dcorning at ford.com Wed Apr 26 16:24:26 2017 From: dcorning at ford.com (Corning, Dan (D.C.)) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2017 22:24:26 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Hypoid Axle Grease Seal I am trying to remove the rear axle hub and wheel bearing to replace the oil seal located behind them. After removing the axle shaft, retaining nut and lock washer, the photo shows the hub and bearing. The inner race of the bearing seems to have an interference fit with the axle housing. Can anyone tell me the proper method to remove the hub? Can I use two long ? inch bolts in the threaded holes in the photo to "push" the hub out and then use an appropriate sized bearing driver to reinstall? Best, Dan Corning -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Hypoid Axle Hub.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 224305 bytes Desc: Hypoid Axle Hub.JPG URL: From jc9821 at msn.com Wed Apr 26 16:50:02 2017 From: jc9821 at msn.com (John and Judy Carter) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2017 22:50:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Door weatherstrip References: Just replaced the door weatherstrip on my BJ8 and now the doors are too tight to shut. I used Bristleflex weatherstripping. Any suggestions? ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 2:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 116 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Cheers! (Bob Brown) 2. Re: Cheers! (Bruce Steele) 3. Austin Healey magazine (Tim Davis BN7) 4. Re: Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? (Ian Hey) 5. Re: Cheers! (David Porter) 6. Re: Austin Healey magazine (Bob Spidell) 7. Re: Austin Healey magazine (Elton Schulz) 8. Re: Cheers! (J. Scott Morris) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 20:15:20 +0000 (UTC) From: Bob Brown To: "healeys at autox.team.net" , Spridget Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cheers! Happy Birthday Mark!?I've been on this list since 1994 or 94. It has been a great help over the years. Thanks for all you do?BobBT7AN5 From: Mark J Bradakis To: "healeys at autox.team.net" ; Spridget Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2017 5:54 AM Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! Raise a glass to Team.Net!? April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air.? 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the Autox lists.? Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from back then.. Happy Birthday to us. mjb. _______________________________________________ www.team.net www.team.net The Team.Net email, archive, ftp and web services are run on a part time volunteer basis. There are out of pocket expenses involved in the network connection, name ... Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Team.Net Archives www.team.net Team.Net Archives. Archives listed from most recently updated to oldest updated. Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Healeys -- Austin Healey Discussion - Team.Net autox.team.net To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Healeys Archives. Using Healeys: To post a message to all the list members, send email ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 14:51:58 -0700 From: "Bruce Steele" To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" , , "'Spridget'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cheers! Thank you for your service to the hobby. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2017 1:24 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net; Spridget Subject: [Healeys] Cheers! Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air. 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from back than. Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. It got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic hosted from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source of network traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such was not official university business and should be discontinued. So I moved the lists to a server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so simple and so cheap. I sent out a plea for funding and got a great response. Thanks to the U of U having a good relationship with Hewlett-Packard I was able to procure one of the first machines with over a 100 megahertz CPU, a 20 megabyte hard drive and something like 8 megs of RAM. All for about a mere $2,500 dollars. Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a scatterbrained procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for all these years, keeping it going. Team.Net is not as active as it was some years ago. The autocross list is basically dead now, but when I took the Killer Spit to the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over half the drivers there were subscribers to the autocross list. Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of automotive related web sites, forums and such available. But there are still many folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share their exploits, their frustrations, their lives with like minded individuals. Happy Birthday to us. mjb. _______________________________________________ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2017 20:34:06 -0400 (EDT) From: Tim Davis BN7 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey magazine Message-ID: <492529433.17375369.1491957246774.JavaMail.zimbra at mchsi.com> Anyone else think the latest issue is printed on rice paper? Tim Davis BN7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 10:01:41 +0100 From: "Ian Hey" To: "'Craig Cooper'" , Subject: Re: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? Your sills sound like normal UK replacement ones - none of them fit, and many are curved so they do not give an even door to sill gap. I had to cut, weld and lead mine to make the raised portion line up with the door, and a friend just gave up with UK sourced ones and ordered two from Kilmartin which were much better. _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Cooper Sent: 11 April 2017 17:09 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Do 2+2's Have Longer Doors? I'm finishing up on metalwork on a BN7 and replaced the outer sills with ones sourced through Moss, but I believe they came from AH spares. To make them fit my car, I had to section them by about 5/8" as the raised portion that goes under the door was at least that much longer than the door and desired door gap. Not a big deal to do, but has me scratching my head. The bottoms of my doors are a hair over 30-1/2", if anyone with a BN4 or BT7 and a tape measure wants to check theirs and report. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 06:30:35 -0600 From: David Porter To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cheers! well when it's still snowing in April in Utah.... good job Mark! Dave P no Healey since divorce... On 4/11/2017 2:15 PM, Bob Brown wrote: > Happy Birthday Mark! > I've been on this list since 1994 or 94. It has been a great help over > the years. > > Thanks for all you do > Bob > BT7 > AN5 > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Mark J Bradakis > *To:* "healeys at autox.team.net" ; Spridget > > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 11, 2017 5:54 AM > *Subject:* [Healeys] Cheers! > > Raise a glass to Team.Net! April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air. > 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that > long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with > USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars > and the Autox lists. Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some > names from back then. > . > > Happy Birthday to us. > > mjb. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/blkbt7 at yahoo.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 07:12:25 -0700 From: Bob Spidell To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey magazine Yeah, I noticed that too. Assumed it was just another 'efficiency' in our modern world. Bob On 4/11/2017 5:34 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote: > Anyone else think the latest issue is printed on rice paper? > > > Tim Davis BN7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 11:34:51 -0400 From: Elton Schulz To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey magazine What a change from the last issue! Elton On 4/11/2017 8:34 PM, Tim Davis BN7 wrote: > Anyone else think the latest issue is printed on rice paper? > > > Tim Davis BN7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2017 17:51:27 +0000 (UTC) From: "J. Scott Morris" To: Mark J Bradakis , "healeys at autox.team.net" , Spridget Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cheers! Mark, thank you for all you do.? I have been here since sometime in 1998 and have quite enjoyed the Healey List. ?--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada?????????? - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Tuesday, April 11, 2017 7:01 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: Raise a glass to Team.Net!? April 11, 1991 the domain went on the air.? 26 years ago, a quarter of a century. Hard to believe it has been that long. In truth the foundation was laid some years before then, with USENET rec.autos newsgroups evolving into what became the British cars and the Autox lists.? Richard Welty, Dale Cook and Jim Muller are some names from back than. Somehow I got involved while I was working at the University of Utah. It got to the point where the British car and autocross email traffic hosted from my desktop machine at work became a very noticeable source of network traffic. The powers that be STRONGLY suggested that such was not official university business and should be discontinued. So I moved the lists to a server at my house. Back then it wasn't quite so simple and so cheap. I sent out a plea for funding and got a great response. Thanks to the U of U having a good relationship with Hewlett-Packard I was able to procure one of the first machines with over a 100 megahertz CPU, a 20 megabyte hard drive and something like 8 megs of RAM.? All for about a mere $2,500 dollars. Things have progressed since then. Still hosted from my house, still taking a bit of my time every day. Hard to believe that a scatterbrained procrastinator like me has been behind the curtain for all these years, keeping it going.? Team.Net is not as active as it was some years ago.? The autocross list is basically dead now, but when I took the Killer Spit to the SCCA Solo Nationals in 1997, over half the drivers there were subscribers to the autocross list. Back then there were not many choices. Now there are myriads of automotive related web sites, forums and such available. But there are still many folks who enjoy the Team.Net email lists, who love to share their exploits, their frustrations, their lives with like minded individuals. Happy Birthday to us. mjb. _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 10, Issue 116 **************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 26 17:09:31 2017 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2017 16:09:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Hypoid Axle Grease Seal References: <43132867524e4ab5b9a8694c6a4acf5c@nafcmb26.exchange.ford.com> Use a three hooked gear puller / slide hammer to remove the hub. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Corning, Dan (D.C.) Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 3:24 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Hypoid Axle Grease Seal I am trying to remove the rear axle hub and wheel bearing to replace the oil seal located behind them. After removing the axle shaft, retaining nut and lock washer, the photo shows the hub and bearing. The inner race of the bearing seems to have an interference fit with the axle housing. Can anyone tell me the proper method to remove the hub? Can I use two long ? inch bolts in the threaded holes in the photo to ?push? the hub out and then use an appropriate sized bearing driver to reinstall? Best, Dan Corning -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Apr 26 17:33:16 2017 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2017 19:33:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Hypoid Axle Grease Seal References: <43132867524e4ab5b9a8694c6a4acf5c@nafcmb26.exchange.ford.com> Dan, I don't think using bolts in the two/three holes will generate enough force to push the hub off. But I haven't tried it. I use a 3 arm puller; a 2 arm will work. I made a thick disc (1/2"?) that pilots on the end of the axle, has a smaller OD than the ID of the bearing, and has a conical shaped hole in the center to accept the drive point of the puller. To remove the bearing from the hub, I use a hydraulic press. Made a rod that presses on the inner race from the seal side. That goes against the ram of the press. I made some standoffs that the wheel studs fit into so the hub is taking the load, not the wheel studs. (Didn't want the studs to push out of the hub while pushing on the bearing.) When installing the bearing back into the hub, you want to apply the force on the outer race. When installing the hub back on the car, apply the force on just the inner race. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 MkI registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/26/2017 06:24 PM, Corning, Dan (D.C.) wrote: > I am trying to remove the rear axle hub and wheel bearing to replace the > oil seal located behind them. After removing the axle shaft, retaining > nut and lock washer, the photo shows the hub and bearing. > > > > The inner race of the bearing seems to have an interference fit with the > axle housing. Can anyone tell me the proper method to remove the hub? > Can I use two long ? inch bolts in the threaded holes in the photo to > ?push? the hub out and then use an appropriate sized bearing driver to > reinstall? > > > > Best, > > > Dan Corning > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Apr 26 18:18:23 2017 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock [Healey]) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 00:18:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Hypoid Axle Grease Seal References: <43132867524e4ab5b9a8694c6a4acf5c@nafcmb26.exchange.ford.com> Hi Dan, If you have a spare axle, put it on the hub "backwards" so the axle shaft sticks out, put a small block of wood on the end of the axle tube (to protect it and start the bearing moving) and put the nuts back on the wheel studs and use it as a puller. With the evenly spaced wheel studs, you can pull the hub off evenly. Don't use those tiny brake drum locators. And if one of your mates breaks an axle, keep the hub end flange for this job, especially if you have a narrow garage. :-) Best Chris On Thu., 27 Apr. 2017 at 8:42 am, Corning, Dan (D.C.) wrote: > I am trying to remove the rear axle hub and wheel bearing to replace the > oil seal located behind them. After removing the axle shaft, retaining nut > and lock washer, the photo shows the hub and bearing. > > > > The inner race of the bearing seems to have an interference fit with the > axle housing. Can anyone tell me the proper method to remove the hub? Can > I use two long ? inch bolts in the threaded holes in the photo to ?push? > the hub out and then use an appropriate sized bearing driver to reinstall? > > > > Best, > > > Dan Corning > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eschulz at frontiernet.net Wed Apr 26 20:32:09 2017 From: eschulz at frontiernet.net (Elton Schulz) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2017 22:32:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing Hypoid Axle Grease Seal References: <43132867524e4ab5b9a8694c6a4acf5c@nafcmb26.exchange.ford.com> Dan, If you don't have a 3 legged puller or a slide hammer, you can use a trick I learned from Andy Pole on this List. Get the half shaft and turn it backwards so that the domed end is against the axle/hub and the studs going through the half shaft holes. Use the nuts to tighten the half shaft against the hub. The hub will then be pulled off the axle as you tighten. Good luck, Elton On 4/26/2017 6:24 PM, Corning, Dan (D.C.) wrote: > > I am trying to remove the rear axle hub and wheel bearing to replace > the oil seal located behind them. After removing the axle shaft, > retaining nut and lock washer, the photo shows the hub and bearing. > > The inner race of the bearing seems to have an interference fit with > the axle housing. Can anyone tell me the proper method to remove the > hub? Can I use two long ? inch bolts in the threaded holes in the > photo to "push" the hub out and then use an appropriate sized bearing > driver to reinstall? > > Best, > > > Dan Corning > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz at frontiernet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charlie at vaselaar.net Thu Apr 27 07:12:33 2017 From: charlie at vaselaar.net (charlie at vaselaar.net) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 08:12:33 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear End Assembly for Sale Complete 1966 BJ8 rear end assembly for sale - $500 plus shipping or best offer. Ratio: 3.91:1.00 Has a howl on deceleration. Cleaned and painted black. Pictures available on request. Charlie Vaselaar [ charlie at vaselaar.net ]( mailto:charlie at vaselaar.net ) 832-428-0789 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Thu Apr 27 10:29:02 2017 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 12:29:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear End Assembly for Sale References: <1493298753.09791605@apps.rackspace.com> Where are you located Charlie? Fred On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 9:12 AM, charlie at vaselaar.net wrote: > Complete 1966 BJ8 rear end assembly for sale - $500 plus shipping or best > offer. > > > > Ratio: 3.91:1.00 > > Has a howl on deceleration. > > Cleaned and painted black. > > > > Pictures available on request. > > > > Charlie Vaselaar > > charlie at vaselaar.net > > 832-428-0789 <(832)%20428-0789> > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Apr 27 10:36:03 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 09:36:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny References: <46457C59411A46A187C8D6480179FAFB@p6520f> http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-REBUILT-OVERDRIVE-TRANSMISSION-/142330075761?hash=item2123889a71:g:OD0AAOSwuxFY292a&vxp=mtr on ebay Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 11:14 AM, wrote: > What is a ball park price for a rebuilt tranny? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 27 15:09:04 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 14:09:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny References: <46457C59411A46A187C8D6480179FAFB@p6520f> That seems like a reasonable price for a gearbox/OD if it's as advertised. I might have been in the market; my dad dropped mine off a hoist from about 3-4ft. onto a concrete floor. Luckily, it landed on the OD end on the output yoke and only bent the flange, which we were able to get repaired. Bob On 4/27/2017 9:36 AM, i erbs wrote: > http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-REBUILT-OVERDRIVE-TRANSMISSION-/142330075761?hash=item2123889a71:g:OD0AAOSwuxFY292a&vxp=mtr > > on ebay > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 11:14 AM, > What is a ball park price for a rebuilt tranny? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Thu Apr 27 15:36:36 2017 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 17:36:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Advance Performance Technology (APT) - Great Customer Experience No financial interest, just wanted to pass along a great customer experience. I ordered some K&N air filters four years ago from Dave and Lori Anton at Advance Performance Technology. I never mounted them and they did stay in the original shipping box. I realized a few days ago, when I got ready to mount them that I had ordered the wrong part numbers. I wrote Dave and told him my problem and even though these have been in my possession for just short of four years, he wrote me back within an hour or so and told me to ship the filters back to him and that he would exchange them for the proper ones - AFTER FOUR YEARS!! In my book, that is pretty amazing customer service. They sell parts other than K&N air cleaners for British cars and I highly recommend that you consider using them if you do not already. Our hobby/industry needs people like this who stand behind their products and are motivated by customer satisfaction. Give them a try: http://www.aptfast.com. Lin Rose From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 27 15:59:19 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 14:59:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Advance Performance Technology (APT) - Great Customer Experience References: I second this recommendation. Now, if we can just talk David into making the K&N set for BJ8s ... Bob On 4/27/2017 2:36 PM, Linwood Rose wrote: > No financial interest, just wanted to pass along a great customer experience. I ordered some K&N air filters four years ago from Dave and Lori Anton at Advance Performance Technology. I never mounted them and they did stay in the original shipping box. I realized a few days ago, when I got ready to mount them that I had ordered the wrong part numbers. I wrote Dave and told him my problem and even though these have been in my possession for just short of four years, he wrote me back within an hour or so and told me to ship the filters back to him and that he would exchange them for the proper ones - AFTER FOUR YEARS!! In my book, that is pretty amazing customer service. > > They sell parts other than K&N air cleaners for British cars and I highly recommend that you consider using them if you do not already. Our hobby/industry needs people like this who stand behind their products and are motivated by customer satisfaction. Give them a try: http://www.aptfast.com. > > Lin Rose From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Apr 27 16:08:42 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 15:08:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny References: <46457C59411A46A187C8D6480179FAFB@p6520f> <50a252bd-33f7-c674-e9dd-c7565b4daf11@comcast.net> wow, one of those slow motion things that you cannot stop watching?? Glad it was not terminal. Actually did seem like a good price. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 2:09 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > That seems like a reasonable price for a gearbox/OD if it's as > advertised. I might have been in the market; my dad dropped mine off a > hoist from about 3-4ft. onto a concrete floor. Luckily, it landed on the > OD end on the output yoke and only bent the flange, which we were able to > get repaired. > > Bob > > On 4/27/2017 9:36 AM, i erbs wrote: > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-REBUILT- > OVERDRIVE-TRANSMISSION-/142330075761?hash=item2123889a71:g: > OD0AAOSwuxFY292a&vxp=mtr > > on ebay > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 11:14 AM, wrote: > >> What is a ball park price for a rebuilt tranny? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 27 16:41:30 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 15:41:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny References: <46457C59411A46A187C8D6480179FAFB@p6520f> <50a252bd-33f7-c674-e9dd-c7565b4daf11@comcast.net> Happened before I got there. My dad was moving the box off a bench so we'd have room to work on a pending engine install, and it slipped out of the strap. My dad was devastated, but we got lucky. Them boxes is strong. On 4/27/2017 3:08 PM, i erbs wrote: > wow, one of those slow motion things that you cannot stop watching?? > Glad it was not terminal. > Actually did seem like a good price. > > > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > On Thu, Apr 27, 2017 at 2:09 PM, Bob Spidell > That seems like a reasonable price for a gearbox/OD if it's as > advertised. I might have been in the market; my dad dropped mine > off a hoist from about 3-4ft. onto a concrete floor. Luckily, it > landed on the OD end on the output yoke and only bent the flange, > which we were able to get repaired. > > Bob > > > On 4/27/2017 9:36 AM, i erbs wrote: >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-REBUILT-OVERDRIVE-TRANSMISSION-/142330075761?hash=item2123889a71:g:OD0AAOSwuxFY292a&vxp=mtr >> >> >> on ebay >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 27 17:26:18 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 16:26:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Advance Performance Technology (APT) - Great Customer Experience References: <1892529504.6525945.1493333722226@mail.yahoo.com> Forwarded per Mike's request. I live 5 minutes from APT. David has a;ways been customer oriented. He was invaluable when I was restoring my Bugeye back in 200 and again when the 1275/Datsun trans conversion went in. I got my BN2 head pocket ported and CC'd the combustion chambers at his shop even though he does not service big Healeys. David also has a cam cutting machine and a dyno stand for engine research for the A & B motors plus Triumph. If you have a Spridget as well as your big Healey the web site is definitely worth a look. Mike MacLean Bob - Will you forward this to the list as I can still not post to it yet. On Thursday, April 27, 2017 3:45 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: I second this recommendation. Now, if we can just talk David into making the K&N set for BJ8s ... Bob On 4/27/2017 2:36 PM, Linwood Rose wrote: > No financial interest, just wanted to pass along a great customer experience. I ordered some K&N air filters four years ago from Dave and Lori Anton at Advance Performance Technology. I never mounted them and they did stay in the original shipping box. I realized a few days ago, when I got ready to mount them that I had ordered the wrong part numbers. I wrote Dave and told him my problem and even though these have been in my possession for just short of four years, he wrote me back within an hour or so and told me to ship the filters back to him and that he would exchange them for the proper ones - AFTER FOUR YEARS!! In my book, that is pretty amazing customer service. > > They sell parts other than K&N air cleaners for British cars and I highly recommend that you consider using them if you do not already. Our hobby/industry needs people like this who stand behind their products and are motivated by customer satisfaction. Give them a try: http://www.aptfast.com. > > Lin Rose -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From edriver at sasktel.net Thu Apr 27 17:32:49 2017 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 17:32:49 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Email address needed Hi Folks Can someone supply me with Ray Juncal's recent e-mail address Cheers Ed E.A. Driver Saskatoon, Saskatchewan From waschu2 at gmail.com Sat Apr 29 06:23:59 2017 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne) Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2017 08:23:59 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear end pinion shims Hello, I am building a couple of Healey rear ends and need a selection of pinion shims. They are 1 1/2 in OD by 1 1/8 ID Inches. Moss has a very limited selection and I was hoping someone had found an American cars application that fits. I believe 28 mm 38mm shims would work also. A kit with several thickness shims would be great. Thanks Wayne From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sat Apr 29 07:19:12 2017 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2017 09:19:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear end pinion shims References: <0f674c74-d91c-3bf9-ce54-945fa320c8cb@gmail.com> Bokers.com On 4/29/2017 8:23 AM, Wayne wrote: > Hello, > > I am building a couple of Healey rear ends and need a > selection of pinion shims. They are 1 1/2 in OD by 1 1/8 ID > Inches. Moss has a very limited selection and I was hoping someone > had found an American cars application that fits. I believe 28 mm 38mm > shims would work also. A kit with several thickness shims would be > great. > > > Thanks > > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org > > > From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Sat Apr 29 13:42:53 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2017 07:42:53 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] 100/6 on BarnFinds References: <9EEC2878-F707-431F-ACB7-311163D2D6A5@comcast.net> Did anyone notice that this is a Longbridge front half and a Abingdon rear half? You can see the join line running across the floor under the seats. I wonder if it left the factory like that or if it had a massive whump up the bum years ago and had a major repair job done. On 4/26/17, Kent McLean wrote: > Stored 40 years, being sold on eBay. NFI. > > http://barnfinds.com/stored-40-years-1957-austin-healey-100-6/ > http://www.ebay.com/itm/292094375557 > > - > Kent McLean > ?56 100 BN2 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austinhealeyslist at gmail.com > > From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Sat Apr 29 13:46:31 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2017 07:46:31 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Door weatherstrip References: Baby powder. Dust the rubber with it and they will slide just a little as the door closes and eventually they'll settle into their new position. I have just done the same on a BN4 and they were pushing the doors out visibly in the gaps to start with. Bit of baby powder and a few weeks wait and they are back to gentle but firm closing. Andy. On 4/27/17, John and Judy Carter wrote: > Just replaced the door weatherstrip on my BJ8 and now the doors are too > tight to shut. I used Bristleflex weatherstripping. Any suggestions? > > > _ From austinhealeyslist at gmail.com Sat Apr 29 14:11:14 2017 From: austinhealeyslist at gmail.com (A H List) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2017 08:11:14 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Side shift tranny References: <46457C59411A46A187C8D6480179FAFB@p6520f> Be aware of what "rebuilt" means when it comes to gearboxes. "the best parts I could scrounge up from under the bench, assembled with bearings that don't sound too noisy" is the default meaning of rebuilt over here. Every rotating part wears out to some degree and using worn parts will result in an even more stodgy shift than when new. Then there are the Eastern-sourced brass synchros and bearings that will ensure a very short lived gearbox... Ask specifically what was renewed and what brand of parts were used as it is a very big job to do the gearbox twice because somebody scrimped on parts quality. Andy. On 4/26/17, ruvino at ripnet.com wrote: > What is a ball park price for a rebuilt tranny? From goldengt at cal.net Sun Apr 30 09:33:31 2017 From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2017 08:33:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 octane What octane rating was the bj8 likely designed for? 95?Ken Freese65 BJ8 Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun Apr 30 10:49:43 2017 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2017 12:49:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 octane References: <20170430153334.A8F851A052C@mail.cal.net> Hi Ken, The Road and Track test for the BJ8 only states "premium" fuel is required. Premium in 1967 would have been about 99 octane. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Sun, Apr 30, 2017 at 11:33 AM, goldengt wrote: > What octane rating was the bj8 likely designed for? 95? > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sun Apr 30 11:54:13 2017 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2017 18:54:13 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator My nephew's generator issues may resolve themselves soon. May... We may look at replacing the C42 in his BJ8 with an alternator, one of the generator lookalikes. Dynalite is one of the names I've come across, as sold by Holden's. The Usual Suspects don't seem to give their lookalikes their brand names. Anyhow, I know this topic came up a few months back, but I wasn't interested then! So:- Does anyone have experience of these things? Is any brand better than another?? Etcetc. Holden's claim 45amps for theirs. AHSpares claim 50amps. A BJ8's C42 generator kicks out 30amps max. It seems that one does need the BIG fuse in the Dummy Control Box. When I put in my alternator, a Lucas ACR, I put in an extra cable to carry the extra amps...apparently if the alternator is really belting out the amps, the old wiring is a bit marginal. Any other thoughts? Kind advice to the effect that putting more modern electrics in our old bangers is streng verboten is unnecessary at this time. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From go2ghill at aol.com Sun Apr 30 11:59:37 2017 From: go2ghill at aol.com (Greg Hill) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2017 13:59:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] K & N Filter With so many filter sizes to select from, does someone know which filter is a replacement to fit on a Bj8. Greg Hill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sun Apr 30 12:44:10 2017 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2017 20:44:10 +0200 (MEST) Subject: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator References: <001f01d2c1da$c73a3e40$55aebac0$@homecall.co.uk> Your cousin can try it and tell us how long the Dynalite survived. 1month, 3 month or if you are luckky a couple of months more. They usually die the heat death. Btw. 28 Amps you can get as a maximum, not more. Why I know that? The company I am working for sells them and I am responsible to handle customer complains. other brand is Dynamator. You can try tem as well - same result. Sorry I do not tell more as its Streng verboten, as we say in Germany. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] Dynalite or which alternator to C42 Generator Datum: 2017-04-30T20:29:55+0200 Von: "Simon Lachlan" An: "'Healey List'" My nephew?s generator issues may resolve themselves soon. May??. We may look at replacing the C42 in his BJ8 with an alternator, one of the generator lookalikes. Dynalite is one of the names I?ve come across, as sold by Holden?s. The Usual Suspects don?t seem to give their lookalikes their brand names. Anyhow, I know this topic came up a few months back, but I wasn?t interested then! So:- Does anyone have experience of these things? Is any brand better than another?? Etcetc. Holden?s claim 45amps for theirs. AHSpares claim 50amps. A BJ8?s C42 generator kicks out 30amps max. It seems that one does need the BIG fuse in the Dummy Control Box. When I put in my alternator, a Lucas ACR, I put in an extra cable to carry the extra amps??.apparently if the alternator is really belting out the amps, the old wiring is a bit marginal. Any other thoughts? Kind advice to the effect that putting more modern electrics in our old bangers is streng verboten is unnecessary at this time. Thanks, Simon ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Apr 30 14:37:43 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2017 13:37:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 octane References: <20170430153334.A8F851A052C@mail.cal.net> I buy aviation fuel at 110 obtain and mix 4 gallons in and then fill with premium unleaded. Ira Erbs 1959 100-6 MKI engine and disc brakes excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. Portland,OR On Apr 30, 2017 10:21 AM, "HealeyRick" wrote: > Hi Ken, > > The Road and Track test for the BJ8 only states "premium" fuel is > required. Premium in 1967 would have been about 99 octane. > > Happy Healeying, > > Rick Neville > > On Sun, Apr 30, 2017 at 11:33 AM, goldengt wrote: > >> What octane rating was the bj8 likely designed for? 95? >> Ken Freese >> 65 BJ8 >> >> >> >> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Apr 30 19:01:37 2017 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 1 May 2017 03:01:37 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 octane References: <20170430153334.A8F851A052C@mail.cal.net> (Dormant) private/commercial pilot here. 110 octane hasn't been available since before I started flying almost 30 years ago (too much TEL). Best you can get is 100LL ('LL' stands for low lead, which is a misnomer because I believe it's only maybe 30% less TEL than 110). It's blue in color: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avgas It'll be phased out over the next decade or so. Even rarer is 80-octane avgas, which older, lower-compression engines prefer--still has TEL, though--but many of them can run premium auto gas. 100/130 is available, supposedly, in a few places but I've never seen it offered. I haven't checked the compression on my BJ8's rebuilt engine, but it should be a bit higher than nominal, and so far it seems to run fine on 'premium' (91-octane here in CA). Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > On April 30, 2017 at 10:37 PM i erbs wrote: > > I buy aviation fuel at 110 obtain and mix 4 gallons in and then fill with premium unleaded. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > On Apr 30, 2017 10:21 AM, "HealeyRick" wrote: > > > > Hi Ken, > > > > The Road and Track test for the BJ8 only states "premium" fuel is required. Premium in 1967 would have been about 99 octane. > > > > Happy Healeying, > > > > Rick Neville > > > > On Sun, Apr 30, 2017 at 11:33 AM, goldengt wrote: > > > > > > > What octane rating was the bj8 likely designed for? 95? > > > Ken Freese > > > 65 BJ8 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Apr 30 20:01:53 2017 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2017 22:01:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Oil Pump source I am a bit confused as to whether the six-cylinder oil pump will fit on a 100. A few sources seem to say yes but Moss's catalogue lists different part #'s and NA for the 100. Does anyone have a good source? Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Apr 30 22:24:02 2017 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2017 21:24:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 octane References: <20170430153334.A8F851A052C@mail.cal.net> <565904781.595379.1493600498511@connect.xfinity.com> You are correct, Trying to go from memory, bad place to look. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Sun, Apr 30, 2017 at 6:01 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > (Dormant) private/commercial pilot here. 110 octane hasn't been available > since before I started flying almost 30 years ago (too much TEL). Best you > can get is 100LL ('LL' stands for low lead, which is a misnomer because I > believe it's only maybe 30% less TEL than 110). It's blue in color: > > > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avgas > > > It'll be phased out over the next decade or so. Even rarer is 80-octane > avgas, which older, lower-compression engines prefer--still has TEL, > though--but many of them can run premium auto gas. 100/130 is available, > supposedly, in a few places but I've never seen it offered. > > > I haven't checked the compression on my BJ8's rebuilt engine, but it > should be a bit higher than nominal, and so far it seems to run fine on > 'premium' (91-octane here in CA). > > > Bob > > > > -------------------------------- > Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > > On April 30, 2017 at 10:37 PM i erbs wrote: > > I buy aviation fuel at 110 obtain and mix 4 gallons in and then fill with > premium unleaded. > > Ira Erbs > 1959 100-6 > MKI engine and disc brakes > excuse typos and strange words my phone wants you to see. > Portland,OR > > On Apr 30, 2017 10:21 AM, "HealeyRick" wrote: > > Hi Ken, > > The Road and Track test for the BJ8 only states "premium" fuel is > required. Premium in 1967 would have been about 99 octane. > > Happy Healeying, > > Rick Neville > > On Sun, Apr 30, 2017 at 11:33 AM, goldengt wrote: > > What octane rating was the bj8 likely designed for? 95? > Ken Freese > 65 BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: