Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Mounts

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2016 00:24:46 +0000

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The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being detrimentally affe=
cted by UV and environmental ozone. As such we are told not to use tires th=
at are over six years old. I think the same thing happens to other rubber p=
arts as well. I've installed rubber plugs and grommets on my BN1 that deter=
iorated with 6 months of installation. For that reason I won't buy "NOS" ru=
bber parts and I think any new rubber parts should be date coded.

________________________________
From: Healeys <[email-masked]> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bs=
[email-masked]>
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 2:24:11 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Mounts

The engine mounts on my BJ8--whose engine I am overhauling--had the
rubber part separating from their metal backing.  This didn't surprise
me, as they have 25+ years and 120K+ miles on them. However, I got under
the BN2 the other day and noticed its mounts were separating as well,
and these only have a few years and a few hundred miles on them.
Apparently--like most rubber or rubber/metal parts from contemporary
suppliers--they are crap. Anyone know a source for quality, durable
engine mounts for Big Healeys?

TIA,

Bob

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

sn.com

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<p>The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being detrimentally a=
ffected by UV and environmental ozone. As such we are told not to use tires=
 that are over six years old. I think the same thing happens to other rubbe=
r parts as well. I've installed
 rubber plugs and grommets on my BN1 that deteriorated with 6 months of ins=
tallation. For that reason I won't buy &quot;NOS&quot; rubber parts and I t=
hink any new rubber parts should be date coded.</p>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" =
color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Healeys &lt;healeys=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Bob Spidell &lt;[email-masked]=
et&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, November 12, 2016 2:24:11 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healeys<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Engine Mounts</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div>
<font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt;">
<div class=3D"PlainText">The engine mounts on my BJ8--whose engine I am ove=
rhauling--had the
<br>
rubber part separating from their metal backing.&nbsp; This didn't surprise=
 <br>
me, as they have 25&#43; years and 120K&#43; miles on them. However, I got =
under <br>
the BN2 the other day and noticed its mounts were separating as well, <br>
and these only have a few years and a few hundred miles on them.&nbsp;&nbsp=
; <br>
Apparently--like most rubber or rubber/metal parts from contemporary <br>
suppliers--they are crap. Anyone know a source for quality, durable <br>
engine mounts for Big Healeys?<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
m.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archiv=
e</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</=
a><br>
<br>
[email-masked]<br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/[email-masked]">
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<br>
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2016 16:29:45 -0800

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Agree, but the mounts separated where the rubber was bonded to the metal 
backing.  The rubber looked OK and is pliable.

Fought the same issue for years with the exhaust mounts.  Finally put a 
countersunk screw through the backing plates and the rubber to limit 
travel; may have to do same with the motor mounts.  To be fair, it's 
probably pretty difficult to get a really durable bond between rubber 
and steel although the OEM suspension bushings seemed to hold up pretty 
well.

Bob

On 11/12/2016 4:24 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>
> The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being detrimentally 
> affected by UV and environmental ozone. As such we are told not to use 
> tires that are over six years old. I think the same thing happens to 
> other rubber parts as well. I've installed rubber plugs and grommets 
> on my BN1 that deteriorated with 6 months of installation. For that 
> reason I won't buy "NOS" rubber parts and I think any new rubber parts 
> should be date coded.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <[email-masked]> on behalf of Bob 
> Spidell <[email-masked]>
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 12, 2016 2:24:11 PM
> *To:* Healeys
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Engine Mounts

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    <p>Agree, but the mounts separated where the rubber was bonded to
      the metal backing.  The rubber looked OK and is pliable.  <br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p>Fought the same issue for years with the exhaust mounts.  Finally
      put a countersunk screw through the backing plates and the rubber
      to limit travel; may have to do same with the motor mounts.  To be
      fair, it's probably pretty difficult to get a really durable bond
      between rubber and steel although the OEM suspension bushings
      seemed to hold up pretty well.</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p>Bob<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/12/2016 4:24 PM, WILLIAM B
      LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
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        charset=windows-1252">
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          <p>The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being
            detrimentally affected by UV and environmental ozone. As
            such we are told not to use tires that are over six years
            old. I think the same thing happens to other rubber parts as
            well. I've installed rubber plugs and grommets on my BN1
            that deteriorated with 6 months of installation. For that
            reason I won't buy "NOS" rubber parts and I think any new
            rubber parts should be date coded.</p>
        </div>
        <hr tabindex="-1" style="display:inline-block; width:98%">
        <div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
            face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
            Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> on behalf of
            Bob Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
            <b>Sent:</b> Saturday, November 12, 2016 2:24:11 PM<br>
            <b>To:</b> Healeys<br>
            <b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Engine Mounts</font>
          <div> </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <font size="2"><span style="font-size:10pt;">
          <div class="PlainText">The engine mounts on my BJ8--whose
            engine I am overhauling--had the
            <br>
            rubber part separating from their metal backing.  This
            didn't surprise <br>
            me, as they have 25+ years and 120K+ miles on them. However,
            I got under <br>
            the BN2 the other day and noticed its mounts were separating
            as well, <br>
            and these only have a few years and a few hundred miles on
            them.   <br>
            Apparently--like most rubber or rubber/metal parts from
            contemporary <br>
            suppliers--they are crap. Anyone know a source for quality,
            durable <br>
            engine mounts for Big Healeys?<br>
            <br>
            TIA,<br>
            <br>
            Bob<br>
            <br>
            <br>
            <br>
          </div>
        </span></font>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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[email-masked]

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From: John Vrugtman <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2016 19:44:00 -0500

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"Rubber" means different things these days.  Hi quality natural rubber, 
as used in our cars originally, will last many years. Now, rubber can 
come from many sources, some better than others. In my experience, I 
installed a lower windshield seal and a year later it cracked.  
Installed a replacement and it has held up for 15 years.  So, quality 
matters; buy from knowledgeable dealers, they should know.

John

64/66 BJ8s

On 11/12/2016 7:24 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> ___

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    <p>"Rubber" means different things these days.  Hi quality natural
      rubber, as used in our cars originally, will last many years. 
      Now, rubber can come from many sources, some better than others. 
      In my experience, I installed a lower windshield seal and a year
      later it cracked.  Installed a replacement and it has held up for
      15 years.  So, quality matters; buy from knowledgeable dealers,
      they should know.</p>
    <p>John</p>
    <p>64/66 BJ8s<br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/12/2016 7:24 PM, WILLIAM B
            ___<br>
          </div>
        </span></font></blockquote>
    <br>
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[email-masked]

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From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2016 09:31:42 +0100

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Whenever I need rubber bushes, rings, grommets I get industrial quality 
as much as possible. Last much longer and you have a choice in materials 
fit for the purpose.
However it is not always easy to get hold of them as you usually have to 
buy from a wholesale dealer who often requires that you buy from them 
through a retailer or in large quantities.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 13-11-2016 om 1:44 schreef John Vrugtman:
>
> "Rubber" means different things these days.  Hi quality natural 
> rubber, as used in our cars originally, will last many years. Now, 
> rubber can come from many sources, some better than others.  In my 
> experience, I installed a lower windshield seal and a year later it 
> cracked.  Installed a replacement and it has held up for 15 years.  
> So, quality matters; buy from knowledgeable dealers, they should know.
>
> John
>
> 64/66 BJ8s
>
>
>> The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being 
>> detrimentally affected by UV and environmental ozone. As such we are 
>> told not to use tires that are over six years old. I think the same 
>> thing happens to other rubber parts as well. I've installed rubber 
>> plugs and grommets on my BN1 that deteriorated with 6 months of 
>> installation. For that reason I won't buy "NOS" rubber parts and I 
>> think any new rubber parts should be date coded.
>>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> [email-masked]
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>

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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Whenever I need rubber bushes, rings,
      grommets I get industrial quality as much as possible. Last much
      longer and you have a choice in materials fit for the purpose.<br>
      However it is not always easy to get hold of them as you usually
      have to buy from a wholesale dealer who often requires that you
      buy from them through a retailer or in large quantities.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 13-11-2016 om 1:44 schreef John Vrugtman:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <p>"Rubber" means different things these days.  Hi quality natural
        rubber, as used in our cars originally, will last many years. 
        Now, rubber can come from many sources, some better than
        others.  In my experience, I installed a lower windshield seal
        and a year later it cracked.  Installed a replacement and it has
        held up for 15 years.  So, quality matters; buy from
        knowledgeable dealers, they should know.</p>
      <p>John</p>
      <p>64/66 BJ8s<br>
      </p>
      <br>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/12/2016 7:24 PM, WILLIAM B
        LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote
cite="mid:[email-masked]"
        type="cite">
        <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Exchange Server">
        <meta content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
        <div dir="ltr">
          <div id="x_divtagdefaultwrapper" dir="ltr">
            <p>The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being
              detrimentally affected by UV and environmental ozone. As
              such we are told not to use tires that are over six years
              old. I think the same thing happens to other rubber parts
              as well. I've installed rubber plugs and grommets on my
              BN1 that deteriorated with 6 months of installation. For
              that reason I won't buy "NOS" rubber parts and I think any
              new rubber parts should be date coded.</p>
          </div>
          <hr tabindex="-1">
          <div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><b>From:</b> Healeys <a
              moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
              href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>
            on behalf of Bob Spidell <a moz-do-not-send="true"
              class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
              href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
            <b>Sent:</b> Saturday, November 12, 2016 2:24:11 PM<br>
            <b>To:</b> Healeys<br>
            <b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Engine Mounts
            <div> </div>
          </div>
        </div>
        <span>
          <div class="PlainText">The engine mounts on my BJ8--whose
            engine I am overhauling--had the <br>
            rubber part separating from their metal backing.  This
            didn't surprise <br>
            me, as they have 25+ years and 120K+ miles on them. However,
            I got under <br>
            the BN2 the other day and noticed its mounts were separating
            as well, <br>
            and these only have a few years and a few hundred miles on
            them.   <br>
            Apparently--like most rubber or rubber/metal parts from
            contemporary <br>
            suppliers--they are crap. Anyone know a source for quality,
            durable <br>
            engine mounts for Big Healeys?<br>
            <br>
            TIA,<br>
            <br>
            Bob<br>
            <br>
            ___<br>
          </div>
        </span></blockquote>
      <br>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
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<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>
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From: Austin Healeys List <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2016 23:50:05 +1300

There are/were some old stock ones on Ebay. Alternatively there may be
a local industry that can re-vulcanise your old mounts. I nearly went
down that path but found some old stock ones instead.

Any repro mounts made in India or Indonesia will come apart as the
heat and humidity there rust the steel plates before they get
vulcanised and the bond is very poor.

The front pulley damper is prone to splitting in the same way..

Andy.

On 11/13/16, Bob Spidell <[email-masked]> wrote:
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

[email-masked]

---

From: David Porter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2016 08:27:21 -0700

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Rubber continues to vulcanize throughout it's life time. As such it 
hardens and shrinks and eventually pulls the adhesive away from the 
mounts. Perhaps, one could use the new body panel epoxy's to reattach 
the rubber, but you would still have a very hard rubber buffer....

dp

On 11/12/2016 5:24 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/

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    <p>Rubber continues to vulcanize throughout it's life time. As such
      it hardens and shrinks and eventually pulls the adhesive away from
      the mounts. Perhaps, one could use the new body panel epoxy's to
      reattach the rubber, but you would still have a very hard rubber
      buffer....</p>
    <p>dp<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/12/2016 5:24 PM, WILLIAM B
      LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Exchange Server">
      <!-- converted from text -->
      <style><!-- .EmailQuote { margin-left: 1pt; padding-left: 4pt; border-left: #800000 2px solid; } --></style>
      <meta content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <style type="text/css" style="">
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	{margin-top:0;
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      <div dir="ltr">
        <div id="x_divtagdefaultwrapper" dir="ltr"
          style="font-size:12pt; color:#000000;
          font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
          <p>The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being
            detrimentally affected by UV and environmental ozone. As
            such we are told not to use tires that are over six years
            old. I think the same thing happens to other rubber parts as
            well. I've installed rubber plugs and grommets on my BN1
            that deteriorated with 6 months of installation. For that
            reason I won't buy "NOS" rubber parts and I think any new
            rubber parts should be date coded.</p>
        </div>
        <hr tabindex="-1" style="display:inline-block; width:98%">
        <div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
            face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
            Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> on behalf of
            Bob Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>
            <b>Sent:</b> Saturday, November 12, 2016 2:24:11 PM<br>
            <b>To:</b> Healeys<br>
            <b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Engine Mounts</font>
          <div> </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <font size="2"><span style="font-size:10pt;">
          <div class="PlainText">The engine mounts on my BJ8--whose
            engine I am overhauling--had the
            <br>
            rubber part separating from their metal backing.  This
            didn't surprise <br>
            me, as they have 25+ years and 120K+ miles on them. However,
            I got under <br>
            the BN2 the other day and noticed its mounts were separating
            as well, <br>
            and these only have a few years and a few hundred miles on
            them.   <br>
            Apparently--like most rubber or rubber/metal parts from
            contemporary <br>
            suppliers--they are crap. Anyone know a source for quality,
            durable <br>
            engine mounts for Big Healeys?<br>
            <br>
            TIA,<br>
            <br>
            Bob<br>
            <br>
            _______________________________________________<br>
            Support Team.Net <a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
            Suggested annual donation  $12.75<br>
            Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
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              href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
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            <br>
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        </span></font>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>
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</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
      Dave Porter
      Porter Custom Bicycles
      2909 Arno St. NE
      Albuquerque, NM 87107
      505-352-1378
      Go HERE: my world <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.porterbikes.com/">www.porterbikes.com/</a>
    </div>
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[email-masked]

--===============5657137527665449356==--

---

From: [email-masked]
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2016 17:35:03 +0000 (UTC)

--===============3517735296397875923==
	boundary="----=_Part_1274_1686526656.1479058503616"

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Hi Dave,

Not sure how relevant this is but I have noticed that most rubber to steel =
bonding seems to start at the edges, particularly on original components.=
=20

I am inclined to believe that a large contributing factor in the steel to r=
ubber bond is actually caused by corrosion of the steel.

Also usually it seems that the oxidation of the rubber is a quite thin laye=
r and the underlying rubber is still in perfect condition although very old=
.

Of course this is not always the case as very deep cracks in the engine mou=
nt rubber blocks are not uncommon.=20

Just my observations.=20

Michael S=20

BN1 #174

With original BSF thread engine mounts..

Correct diagnosis is half of the repair.

On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 11:20 AM -0500, "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscust=
om.com> wrote:

 =20
   =20
 =20
 =20
   =20

Rubber continues to vulcanize throughout it's life time. As such
      it hardens and shrinks and eventually pulls the adhesive away from
      the mounts. Perhaps, one could use the new body panel epoxy's to
      reattach the rubber, but you would still have a very hard rubber
      buffer....
   =20

dp

   =20
   =20

    On 11/12/2016 5:24 PM, WILLIAM B
      LAWRENCE wrote:

   =20
   =20
     =20
     =20
     =20
     =20
     =20
     =20
     =20
       =20
         =20

The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being
            detrimentally affected by UV and environmental ozone. As
            such we are told not to use tires that are over six years
            old. I think the same thing happens to other rubber parts as
            well. I've installed rubber plugs and grommets on my BN1
            that deteriorated with 6 months of installation. For that
            reason I won't buy "NOS" rubber parts and I think any new
            rubber parts should be date coded.
       =20
       =20
        From:
            Healeys <[email-masked]> on behalf of
            Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>

            To: Healeys

            Subject: [Healeys] Engine Mounts
          =C2=A0
       =20
     =20
     =20
          The engine mounts on my BJ8--whose
            engine I am overhauling--had the
           =20

            rubber part separating from their metal backing.=C2=A0 This
            didn't surprise=20

            I got under=20

            as well,=20

            them.=C2=A0=C2=A0=20

            contemporary=20

            durable=20

           =20

            TIA,

           =20

            Bob

           =20

            Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75

           =20

            [email-masked]

           =20

            Unsubscribe/Manage:=20

           =20

         =20
       =20
     =20

     =20
     =20

[email-masked]

orterscustom.com

   =20
   =20

    --=20

      Dave Porter
      Porter Custom Bicycles
      2909 Arno St. NE
      Albuquerque, NM 87107
      505-352-1378
      Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
   =20
 =20

------=_Part_1274_1686526656.1479058503616
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<html><head></head><body><p dir="auto" style=" text-align: left; margin-top: 25px; margin-bottom: 25px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; color: black; background-color: white ">Hi Dave,<br>
Not sure how relevant this is but I have noticed that most rubber to steel bonding seems to start at the edges, particularly on original components. <br>
I am inclined to believe that a large contributing factor in the steel to rubber bond is actually caused by corrosion of the steel.<br>
Also usually it seems that the oxidation of the rubber is a quite thin layer and the underlying rubber is still in perfect condition although very old.<br>
Of course this is not always the case as very deep cracks in the engine mount rubber blocks are not uncommon. <br>
Just my observations. <br>
Michael S <br>
BN1 #174<br>
With original BSF thread engine mounts..<br><br></p>
<p dir="auto" style=" text-align: left; margin-top: 25px; margin-bottom: 25px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; color: black; background-color: white ">Correct diagnosis is half of the repair.<br>
</p>
<br><br><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 11:20 AM -0500, "David Porter" <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br>
<br>

<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">

<div dir="3D&quot;ltr&quot;">

    <meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252" http-equiv="Content-Type">

    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]" type="cite">
        <div id="x_divtagdefaultwrapper" dir="ltr" style="font-size:12pt; color:#000000;
        <div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt" face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
            rubber part separating from their metal backing.&nbsp; This
            them.&nbsp;&nbsp; <br>
            Support Team.Net <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
            Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>
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            Unsubscribe/Manage: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]">

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>

</div>

</blockquote>
</div>
</body></html>
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[email-masked]

--===============3517735296397875923==--

---

From: Curtis Arndt <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2016 12:18:42 -0800

--===============2760235854999344174==

--94eb2c0723a6fc60dc0541346d02

I still have several NOS rubber items for my BN1 that are in near perfect
condition.

Curt

On Nov 13, 2016 2:07 PM, <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Hi Dave,
> Not sure how relevant this is but I have noticed that most rubber to steel
> bonding seems to start at the edges, particularly on original components.
> I am inclined to believe that a large contributing factor in the steel to
> rubber bond is actually caused by corrosion of the steel.
> Also usually it seems that the oxidation of the rubber is a quite thin
> layer and the underlying rubber is still in perfect condition although very
> old.
> Of course this is not always the case as very deep cracks in the engine
> mount rubber blocks are not uncommon.
> Just my observations.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 11:20 AM -0500, "David Porter" <
> [email-masked]> wrote:
>
>> hardens and shrinks and eventually pulls the adhesive away from the mounts.
>> Perhaps, one could use the new body panel epoxy's to reattach the rubber,
>> but you would still have a very hard rubber buffer....
>>
>> dp
>>
>> tires that are over six years old. I think the same thing happens to other
>> rubber parts as well. I've installed rubber plugs and grommets on my BN1
>> that deteriorated with 6 months of installation. For that reason I won't
>> buy "NOS" rubber parts and I think any new rubber parts should be date
>> coded.
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <[email-masked]>
>> <[email-masked]> on behalf of Bob Spidell
>> <[email-masked]> <[email-masked]>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/[email-masked]
>>
>>
>>
>> [email-masked]://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107
>> 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
>>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

--94eb2c0723a6fc60dc0541346d02
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<p dir=3D"ltr">I still have several NOS rubber items for my BN1 that are in=
 near perfect condition.</p>
<p dir=3D"ltr">Curt </p>
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Nov 13, 2016 2=
:07 PM,  &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">michael.salter@gma=
il.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br type=3D"attribution"><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex=
"><div><p dir=3D"auto" style=3D"text-align:left;margin-top:25px;margin-bott=
om:25px;font-family:sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:black;background-color:=
white">Hi Dave,<br>
Not sure how relevant this is but I have noticed that most rubber to steel =
bonding seems to start at the edges, particularly on original components. <=
br>
I am inclined to believe that a large contributing factor in the steel to r=
ubber bond is actually caused by corrosion of the steel.<br>
Also usually it seems that the oxidation of the rubber is a quite thin laye=
r and the underlying rubber is still in perfect condition although very old=
.<br>
Of course this is not always the case as very deep cracks in the engine mou=
nt rubber blocks are not uncommon. <br>
Just my observations. <br>
Michael S <br>
BN1 #174<br>
With original BSF thread engine mounts..<br><br></p>
<p dir=3D"auto" style=3D"text-align:left;margin-top:25px;margin-bottom:25px=
;font-family:sans-serif;font-size:11pt;color:black;background-color:white">=
Correct diagnosis is half of the repair.<br>
</p>
<br><br><br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 11:20 AM -0500, &quot;Da=
vid Porter&quot; <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:frogeye@porterscus=
tom.com" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<=
br>
<br>

<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">

<div dir=3D"3D&quot;ltr&quot;">

 =20
   =20
 =20
 =20
    <p>Rubber continues to vulcanize throughout it&#39;s life time. As such
      it hardens and shrinks and eventually pulls the adhesive away from
      the mounts. Perhaps, one could use the new body panel epoxy&#39;s to
      reattach the rubber, but you would still have a very hard rubber
      buffer....</p>
    <p>dp<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class=3D"m_3540305834808952249moz-cite-prefix">On 11/12/2016 5:24 =
PM, WILLIAM B
      LAWRENCE wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
     =20
     =20
     =20
     =20
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr">
        <div id=3D"m_3540305834808952249x_divtagdefaultwrapper" dir=3D"ltr"=
 style=3D"font-size:12pt;color:#000000;font-family:Calibri,Arial,Helvetica,=
sans-serif">
          <p>The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being
            detrimentally affected by UV and environmental ozone. As
            such we are told not to use tires that are over six years
            old. I think the same thing happens to other rubber parts as
            well. I&#39;ve installed rubber plugs and grommets on my BN1
            that deteriorated with 6 months of installation. For that
            reason I won&#39;t buy &quot;NOS&quot; rubber parts and I think=
 any new
            rubber parts should be date coded.</p>
        </div>
        <hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
        <div id=3D"m_3540305834808952249x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font =
style=3D"font-size:11pt" face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>=
From:</b>
            Healeys <a class=3D"m_3540305834808952249moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">&lt;heale=
[email-masked].<wbr>net&gt;</a> on behalf of
            Bob Spidell <a class=3D"m_3540305834808952249moz-txt-link-rfc23=
96E" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">&lt;bspidell@co=
mcast.net&gt;</a><br>
            <b>Sent:</b> Saturday, November 12, 2016 2:24:11 PM<br>
            <b>To:</b> Healeys<br>
            <b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Engine Mounts</font>
          <div>=C2=A0</div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:10pt">
          <div class=3D"m_3540305834808952249PlainText">The engine mounts o=
n my BJ8--whose
            engine I am overhauling--had the
            <br>
            rubber part separating from their metal backing.=C2=A0 This
            didn&#39;t surprise <br>
            me, as they have 25+ years and 120K+ miles on them. However,
            I got under <br>
            the BN2 the other day and noticed its mounts were separating
            as well, <br>
            and these only have a few years and a few hundred miles on
            them.=C2=A0=C2=A0 <br>
            Apparently--like most rubber or rubber/metal parts from
            contemporary <br>
            suppliers--they are crap. Anyone know a source for quality,
            durable <br>
            engine mounts for Big Healeys?<br>
            <br>
            TIA,<br>
            <br>
            Bob<br>
            <br>
            ______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
            Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.<wbr>html</a><br>
            Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75<br>
            Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_bla=
nk">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
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            <br>
            <a class=3D"m_3540305834808952249moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]=
</a><br>
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et=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/<wbr>listinfo/healeys</a><br>
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tions/healeys/[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">
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<br>
            <br>
          </div>
        </span></font>
      <br>
      <fieldset class=3D"m_3540305834808952249mimeAttachmentHeader"></field=
set>
      <br>
      <pre>______________________________<wbr>_________________
ef=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.ne=
t/donate.<wbr>html</a>
Archive: <a class=3D"m_3540305834808952249moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"ht=
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Forums: <a class=3D"m_3540305834808952249moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"htt=
p://www.team.net/forums" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a>

<a class=3D"m_3540305834808952249moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:H=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>
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x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.ne=
t/mailman/<wbr>listinfo/healeys</a>

 href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscusto=
m.com" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/<wbr>options/healeys=
/frogeye@<wbr>porterscustom.com</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    <div class=3D"m_3540305834808952249moz-signature">-- <br>
      Dave Porter
      Porter Custom Bicycles
      2909 Arno St. NE
      Albuquerque, NM 87107
      <a href=3D"tel:505-352-1378" value=3D"+15053521378" target=3D"_blank"=
>505-352-1378</a>
      Go HERE: my world <a class=3D"m_3540305834808952249moz-txt-link-abbre=
viated" href=3D"http://www.porterbikes.com/" target=3D"_blank">www.porterbi=
kes.com/</a>
    </div>
 =20

</div>

</blockquote>
</div>
</div><br>______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.<wbr>html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D=
"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
<a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel=3D"noreferre=
r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/<wbr>listinfo/healeys</a=
><br>
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s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/<wbr>options/healeys/cnaarndt@<wbr>gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div></div>

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[email-masked]

--===============2760235854999344174==--

---

From: "Simon Lachlan" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2016 21:13:09 -0000

--===============6351574089241911497==
	boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0007_01D23DF2.BDEC84E0"
Content-Language: en-gb

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01D23DF2.BDEC84E0
	charset="UTF-8"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I swear I=E2=80=99ve looked at some of these things =E2=80=93 exhaust =
mountings, if I had to commit =E2=80=93 and the rubber was splitting =
away from the metal because the metal was painted. So the adhesion was =
no better than the paint to metal bond. That can be pretty good, but if =
it isn=E2=80=99t and it just turns into a flakey mess..............

Simon

=20

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of =
[email-masked]
Sent: 13 November 2016 17:35
To: David Porter; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Mounts

=20

Hi Dave,
Not sure how relevant this is but I have noticed that most rubber to =
steel bonding seems to start at the edges, particularly on original =
components.=20
I am inclined to believe that a large contributing factor in the steel =
to rubber bond is actually caused by corrosion of the steel.
Also usually it seems that the oxidation of the rubber is a quite thin =
layer and the underlying rubber is still in perfect condition although =
very old.
Of course this is not always the case as very deep cracks in the engine =
mount rubber blocks are not uncommon.=20
Just my observations.=20
Michael S=20
BN1 #174
With original BSF thread engine mounts..

On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 11:20 AM -0500, "David Porter" =
<[email-masked]> wrote:

Rubber continues to vulcanize throughout it's life time. As such it =
hardens and shrinks and eventually pulls the adhesive away from the =
mounts. Perhaps, one could use the new body panel epoxy's to reattach =
the rubber, but you would still have a very hard rubber buffer....

dp

=20

The current thought is that rubber ages as well as being detrimentally =
affected by UV and environmental ozone. As such we are told not to use =
tires that are over six years old. I think the same thing happens to =
other rubber parts as well. I've installed rubber plugs and grommets on =
my BN1 that deteriorated with 6 months of installation. For that reason =
I won't buy "NOS" rubber parts and I think any new rubber parts should =
be date coded.

  _____ =20

<[email-masked]> on behalf of Bob Spidell  =
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 2:24:11 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Mounts=20

=20

The engine mounts on my BJ8--whose engine I am overhauling--had the=20
rubber part separating from their metal backing.  This didn't surprise=20
me, as they have 25+ years and 120K+ miles on them. However, I got under =

the BN2 the other day and noticed its mounts were separating as well,=20
and these only have a few years and a few hundred miles on them.  =20
Apparently--like most rubber or rubber/metal parts from contemporary=20
suppliers--they are crap. Anyone know a source for quality, durable=20
engine mounts for Big Healeys?

TIA,

Bob

[email-masked]

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
=20
[email-masked]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
=20
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
=20

=20

--=20
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM =
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/=20

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01D23DF2.BDEC84E0
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-GB link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>I swear I=E2=80=99ve looked at some of these things =E2=80=93 exhaust =
mountings, if I had to commit =E2=80=93 and the rubber was splitting =
away from the metal because the metal was painted. So the adhesion was =
no better than the paint to metal bond. That can be pretty good, but if =
it isn=E2=80=99t and it just turns into a flakey =
mess..............<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Healeys =
[mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>[email-masked]<br><b>Sent:</b> 13 November 2016 =
17:35<br><b>To:</b> David Porter; =
[email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Engine =
Mounts<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:18.75pt;margin-right:0cm;margin-bottom:12.0pt=
;margin-left:0cm;background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>H=
i Dave,<br>Not sure how relevant this is but I have noticed that most =
rubber to steel bonding seems to start at the edges, particularly on =
original components. <br>I am inclined to believe that a large =
contributing factor in the steel to rubber bond is actually caused by =
corrosion of the steel.<br>Also usually it seems that the oxidation of =
the rubber is a quite thin layer and the underlying rubber is still in =
perfect condition although very old.<br>Of course this is not always the =
case as very deep cracks in the engine mount rubber blocks are not =
uncommon. <br>Just my observations. <br>Michael S <br>BN1 #174<br>With =
original BSF thread engine mounts..<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:18.75pt;margin-right:0cm;margin-bottom:18.75p=
t;margin-left:0cm;background:white'><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>C=
orrect diagnosis is half of the repair.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at =
11:20 AM -0500, &quot;David Porter&quot; &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p><div><p>Rubber continues to vulcanize throughout =
it's life time. As such it hardens and shrinks and eventually pulls the =
adhesive away from the mounts. Perhaps, one could use the new body panel =
epoxy's to reattach the rubber, but you would still have a very hard =
rubber buffer....<o:p></o:p></p><p>dp<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
11/12/2016 5:24 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><div><div =
id=3D"x_divtagdefaultwrapper"><p><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'>The current =
thought is that rubber ages as well as being detrimentally affected by =
UV and environmental ozone. As such we are told not to use tires that =
are over six years old. I think the same thing happens to other rubber =
parts as well. I've installed rubber plugs and grommets on my BN1 that =
deteriorated with 6 months of installation. For that reason I won't buy =
&quot;NOS&quot; rubber parts and I think any new rubber parts should be =
date coded.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div class=3DMsoNormal =
align=3Dcenter style=3D'text-align:center'><hr size=3D2 width=3D"98%" =
align=3Dcenter></div><div id=3D"x_divRplyFwdMsg"><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'=
>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:black'=
> Healeys <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;healeys-bounces@autox.=
team.net&gt;</a> on behalf of Bob Spidell <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a><br>=
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, November 12, 2016 2:24:11 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
Healeys<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Engine Mounts</span> =
<o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>The engine mounts on my BJ8--whose engine I =
am overhauling--had the <br>rubber part separating from their metal =
backing.&nbsp; This didn't surprise <br>me, as they have 25+ years and =
120K+ miles on them. However, I got under <br>the BN2 the other day and =
noticed its mounts were separating as well, <br>and these only have a =
few years and a few hundred miles on them.&nbsp;&nbsp; =
<br>Apparently--like most rubber or rubber/metal parts from contemporary =
<br>suppliers--they are crap. Anyone know a source for quality, durable =
<br>engine mounts for Big =
Healeys?<br><br>TIA,<br><br>Bob<br><br>__________________________________=
_____________<br>Support Team.Net <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><br>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>F=
orums: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br><br=
><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br><a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team=
.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br><br>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]">ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>_______________________=
________________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Support Team.Net <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 =
$12.75<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><o:p>=
</o:p></pre><pre>Forums: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><o:p></=
o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><o:p></o=
:p></pre><pre><a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team=
.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/pre><pre>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscust=
om.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscust=
om.com</a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>-- =
<br>Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM =
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world <a =
href=3D"http://www.porterbikes.com/">www.porterbikes.com/</a> =
<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></div></div></body></html>
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