Subject: [Healeys] FW: fuse box

From: "Simon Lachlan" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2015 10:35:17 -0000

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Couldn't agree more. At one stage, I had an inline fuse for the overdrive
which, being by the fusebox, was easy to find. The red(?) wire for rear
lights was under the dash and would have been a tricky search.

When I bought the car, the wiring was sound but had been fairly messed
around by an over enthusiastic and under talented PO. Took me a while to
find all the "improvenents".

Now, I've got one of those 7 (I think) way fuseboxes that screw in where our
2 way ones went. Excellent device.

Also, an MGB 4-way box on other side for the lights. It looks "period" and
fairly inoffensive. All wiring backed up by pdf files inserted into my BMC
workshop manual* with a hard copy in the "owner's handbook", carried in the
car.

*Get a pdf of the manual and break the security code. Then you can add your
own notes and additions as you go along. It, over the years, becomes an
increasingly useful tool.

Simon

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2015 8:47
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuse box

In-line fuses. If that means literally what it says it is a fuse just in the
existing wire. Not a good idea as only you may know where it is. Subsequent
owners may have to search or  guess. There are also quite a few classic cars
that have these in-line fuses strewn around the car behind the upholstery
and other parts from new, where nobody can normally find them. That is why I
prefer the fuse/relays box. It means rerouteing some wiring (and strictly
sticking to the colour codes) but you have all the fuses and/or relays in
one spot convenient for inspection, just like the original fuse box with two
or three fuses.
However do not position that box under the dash like in many modern cars but
somewhere easily accessible under the bonnet in a watertight box.
Kees Oudesluijs

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D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Couldn&#8217;t agree more. At one stage, I had an inline fuse for the =
overdrive which, being by the fusebox, was easy to find. The red(?) wire =
for rear lights was under the dash and would have been a tricky =
search.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>When I bought the car, the wiring was sound but had been fairly =
messed around by an over enthusiastic and under talented PO. Took me a =
while to find all the =
&#8220;improvenents&#8221;.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Now, I&#8217;ve got one of those 7 (I think) way fuseboxes that screw =
in where our 2 way ones went. Excellent device.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Also, an MGB 4-way box on other side for the lights. It looks =
&#8220;period&#8221; and fairly inoffensive. All wiring backed up by pdf =
files inserted into my BMC workshop manual* with a hard copy in the =
&#8220;owner&#8217;s handbook&#8221;, carried in the =
car.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoListParagraph><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>*Get a pdf of the manual and break the security code. Then you can =
add your own notes and additions as you go along. It, over the years, =
becomes an increasingly useful tool.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoListParagraph><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'> Healeys [<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">mailto:healeys-bounces@aut=
ox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, =
December 20, 2015 8:47<br><b>To:</b> <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br><b>S=
ubject:</b> Re: [Healeys] fuse box<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>In-line =
fuses. If that means literally what it says it is a fuse just in the =
existing wire. Not a good idea as only you may know where it is. =
Subsequent owners may have to search or&nbsp; guess. There are also =
quite a few classic cars that have these in-line fuses strewn around the =
car behind the upholstery and other parts from new, where nobody can =
normally find them. That is why I prefer the fuse/relays box. It means =
rerouteing some wiring (and strictly sticking to the colour codes) but =
you have all the fuses and/or relays in one spot convenient for =
inspection, just like the original fuse box with two or three =
fuses.<br>However do not position that box under the dash like in many =
modern cars but somewhere easily accessible under the bonnet in a =
watertight box.<br>Kees =
Oudesluijs<br><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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