Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 18:42:48 +0100

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Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and patinated. 
I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with white spirits 
on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.
Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It may 
have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot 
find anything.

Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint. 
If that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white 
spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is 
even and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium 
material as possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a 
soft round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats 
or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the 
lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few days 
and sand lightly with 400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat 
wooden wheels using a satin finish, but others prefer gloss.
Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil 
and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be 
used as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.
It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered 
Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).

I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also 
using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be 
that in the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:
> I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were black plastic.
>
>
>
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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Of what I can see the steering wheel
      does look very nice and patinated. I would not do anything to it
      apart from cleaning it with white spirits on a rough cloth or
      kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.<br>
      Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It
      may have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if
      you cannot find anything.<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic
      paint. If that is the case this must be completely removed before
      repainting.<br>
      Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with
      white spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until
      the colour is even and all lacquer is removed but remove as little
      wood/aluminium material as possible. Remove all the dust
      carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based
      clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5
      coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly.
      Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with
      400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels
      using a satin finish, but others prefer gloss.<br>
      Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw
      linseed oil and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at
      summer temperatures.<br>
      Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut
      can be used as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like
      mahogany ply.<br>
      It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered
      Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).<br>
      <br>
      I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer
      and also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The
      drawback may be that in the beginning your hands will smell of
      linseed oil.<br>
      <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
       <br>
      Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <pre wrap="">I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were black plastic. 

</pre>
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From: HealeyRick <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 14:04:57 -0500

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Hi Chris,

This looks like one of Mike Lempert's wheels.  He offers them in different
woods.  Shoot him an email with a pic and he can probably advise ab out
refinishing:  http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels

On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 11:48 AM, Chris Scholz <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the
> looks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would
> like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the
> metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?
> Are these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels
> were black plastic.
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Chr=
is,<div><br></div><div>This looks like one of Mike Lempert&#39;s wheels.=C2=
=A0 He offers them in different woods.=C2=A0 Shoot him an email with a pic =
and he can probably advise ab out refinishing: =C2=A0<a href=3D"http://www.=
pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels" target=3D"_blank">http://www.pbase.com/mdlemper=
t/wheels</a></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote">On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 11:48 AM, Chris Scholz <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt=
;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">drscholz@=
visioncenterpc.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quot=
e" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">=
I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks=
 of my wooden steering wheel?=C2=A0 The wood is in very good shape. I would=
 like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the m=
etal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?=C2=
=A0 Are these maple?=C2=A0 I know they are not original. I see the original=
 wheels were black plastic.<br>
<br>
<br>_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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eam.net</a><br>
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[email-masked]

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From: Doug Barker <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 17:43:29 -0500

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HELLO

I was just thinking of doing mine also so this is good timing:

My wheel is I believe aMotta but much lighter wood

Please define -White spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?

Also PU solvent based PU?

Thanks-everything else I agree with

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel

Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and patinated. I
would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with white spirits on a
rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.
Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It may have
been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find
anything.

Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint. If
that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white
spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is
even and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material
as possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush
with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors) with
about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly.
Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade
in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish,
but others prefer gloss.
Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil and
leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be used
as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.
It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered Moto-Lita
wheel (same manufacturer).

I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also
using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be that
in the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.

Kees Oudesluijs

I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks
of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would like
to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal
rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are
these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were
black plastic. 

[email-masked]
 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

-----
Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte:
12/31/15

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lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>HELLO<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>I was just thinking of doing mine also so this is good =
timing:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>My wheel is I believe aMotta but much lighter =
wood<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Please define &#8211;White spirits-possible Methal =
Hydrate?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Also PU solvent based PU?<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Thanks-everything else I agree with<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:14.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'>From:</span></b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowt=
ext'> Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>Oudesluys<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] =
Refinish steering wheel<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Of what =
I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and patinated. I would =
not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with white spirits on a =
rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed =
oil.<br>Look for remnants of lacquer&nbsp; on the inside of the =
aluminium. It may have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed =
oil if you cannot find anything.<br><br><br>Depending on the age of the =
wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint. If that is the case this =
must be completely removed before repainting.<br>Start with degreasing =
the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white spirits. Sand very =
lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is even and all =
lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material as =
possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft round =
brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood =
floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer =
will flow evenly. Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand =
lightly with 400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden =
wheels using a satin finish, but others prefer gloss.<br>Another method =
is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil and leave every =
coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.<br>Generally =
mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be used as =
well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.<br>It =
is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered Moto-Lita =
wheel (same manufacturer).<br><br>I have done many steering wheels using =
PU solvent based lacquer and also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the =
latter method. The drawback may be that in the beginning your hands will =
smell of linseed oil.<br><br>Kees Oudesluijs<br>&nbsp;<br>Op 31-12-2015 =
om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><pre>I am finishing =
restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks of my =
wooden steering wheel?&nbsp; The wood is in very good shape. I would =
like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the =
metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they =
used?&nbsp; Are these maple?&nbsp; I know they are not original. I see =
the original wheels were black plastic. =
<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>_______________________=
________________________<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Support Team.Net <a =
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class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>-----<o:p></o:p></pre><=
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bericht.<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a =
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Chris Scholz <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 23:24:17 +0000

--===============1901863551547092718==
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I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from there. Thanks =
for the input.

Sent from my iPhone
Chris Scholz OD

On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker <[email-masked]<mailt=
o:[email-masked]>> wrote:

HELLO

From: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] On Behalf Of Oudesluy=
s
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel

Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and patinated. I w=
ould not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with white spirits on a r=
ough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.
Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It may have b=
een coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find anyt=
hing.

Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint. If=
 that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white spi=
rits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is even =
and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material as =
possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft round brush w=
ith PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors) with a=
bout 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Le=
t every coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade =
in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish, =
but others prefer gloss.
Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil and=
 leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be used=
 as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.
It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered Moto-Lita=
 wheel (same manufacturer).

I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also us=
ing raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be that i=
n the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.

Kees Oudesluijs

I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks=
 of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would like=
 to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal =
rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are th=
ese maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were bl=
ack plastic.

[email-masked]

-----

Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com>

Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: 12/31=
/15

visioncenterpc.com

--_000_239ADBB0AF754B3CBA9C1912D7010162visioncenterpccom_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"=
</head>
<body dir=3D"auto">
<div>I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from there. Th=
anks for the input.&nbsp;<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone
<div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
</div>
<div><br>
On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:douglas.bark=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<meta name=3D"Generator" content=3D"Microsoft Word 14 (filtered medium)">
<style><!--
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<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1F497D">HELLO<o:p></o:p></span></=
p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1F497D">I was just thinking of do=
ing mine also so this is good timing:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1F497D">My wheel is I believe aMo=
tta but much lighter wood<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1F497D">Please define &#8211;Whit=
e spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1F497D">Also PU solvent based PU?=
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1F497D">Thanks-everything else I =
agree with<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1F497D"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span><=
/p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot=
;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:windowtext">From:</span></b><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif=
&quot;;color:windowtext"> Healeys [<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.=
team.net">mailto:[email-masked]</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very =
nice and patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it wi=
th white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in=
 some linseed oil.<br>
Look for remnants of lacquer&nbsp; on the inside of the aluminium. It may h=
ave been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find=
 anything.<br>
<br>
<br>
Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint. If=
 that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.<br>
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white spi=
rits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is even =
and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material as =
possible. Remove all the dust carefully.
 Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as u=
sed on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C =
so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few da=
ys and sand lightly with 400 grade
 in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish,=
 but others prefer gloss.<br>
Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil and=
 leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.<br>
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be used=
 as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.<br>
It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered Moto-Lita=
 wheel (same manufacturer).<br>
<br>
I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also us=
ing raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be that i=
n the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
&nbsp;<br>
Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the =
looks of my wooden steering wheel?&nbsp; The wood is in very good shape. I =
would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since =
the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they use=
d?&nbsp; Are these maple?&nbsp; I know they are not original. I see the ori=
ginal wheels were black plastic. <o:p></o:p></pre>
<pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
<o:p></o:p></p>
<pre>_______________________________________________<o:p></o:p></pre>
<pre>Support <a href=3D"http://Team.Net">Team.Net</a> <a href=3D"http://www=
.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
<pre>Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<o:p></o:p></pre>
<pre>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/a=
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<pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre>
<pre><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><o=
:p></o:p></pre>
<pre><a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://auto=
x.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
<pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre>
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ealeys/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys=
/[email-masked]</a><o:p></o:p></pre>
<pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
<o:p></o:p></p>
<pre>-----<o:p></o:p></pre>
<pre>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<o:p></o:p></pre>
<pre>Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a href=3D"http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</a=
><o:p></o:p></pre>
<pre>Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: =
12/31/15<o:p></o:p></pre>
</blockquote>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2016 00:49:51 +0100

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============1501433554188429553==
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--------------000507030607030705010602
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White spirit I think is similar to oil based turps, there is a problem 
translating these items from Dutch. It is not methylated spirits or 
de-naturalised ethanol. This is not as effective but can be used. 
Thinner is another possibility, but is rather unpleasant to work with 
and needs a very thorough drying before painting.
There is water soluble PU lacquer and there is solvent based PU lacquer. 
The water based stuff dries very quickly, does not darken the wood, does 
not discolour after time, hardly smells, has a very low solvent content, 
is more environmental friendly but is does not last very well and can be 
a bit brittle. The solvent based stuff takes a few days to fully harden, 
flows better and is more durable and tough. It does not crack easily but 
it does darken the wood and after time it will get yellowish/darker.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 31-12-2015 om 23:43 schreef Doug Barker:
> Please define –White spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] *On Behalf Of 
> *Oudesluys
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM
> *To:* [email-masked]
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel
>
> Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and 
> patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with 
> white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing 
> in some linseed oil.
> have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you 
> cannot find anything.
>
>
> repainting.
> white spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the 
> colour is even and all lacquer is removed but remove as little 
> wood/aluminium material as possible. Remove all the dust carefully. 
> Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer 
> (as used on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well 
> over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry 
> thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade in between 
> the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish, but 
> others prefer gloss.
> Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed 
> oil and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer 
> temperatures.
> I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and 
> also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback 
> may be that in the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
>
>       
>
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>       
>
>
>
>
>     -----
>
>     Gecontroleerd door AVG -www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11296 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 12/31/15
>

--------------000507030607030705010602
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  </head>
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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">White spirit I think is similar to oil
      based turps, there is a problem translating these items from
      Dutch. It is not methylated spirits or de-naturalised ethanol.
      This is not as effective but can be used. Thinner is another
      possibility, but is rather unpleasant to work with and needs a
      very thorough drying before painting. <br>
      There is water soluble PU lacquer and there is solvent based PU
      lacquer. The water based stuff dries very quickly, does not darken
      the wood, does not discolour after time, hardly smells, has a very
      low solvent content, is more environmental friendly but is does
      not last very well and can be a bit brittle. The solvent based
      stuff takes a few days to fully harden, flows better and is more
      durable and tough. It does not crack easily but it does darken the
      wood and after time it will get yellowish/darker.<br>
      <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 31-12-2015 om 23:43 schreef Doug Barker:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=US-ASCII">
      <meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 14 (filtered
        medium)">
      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>HELLO</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>I was just thinking of doing mine
            also so this is good timing:</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>My wheel is I believe aMotta but much
            lighter wood</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Please define –White spirits-possible
            Methal Hydrate?</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Also PU solvent based PU?</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span>Thanks-everything else I agree with</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
        <div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span>From:</span></b><span> Healeys
                [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:[email-masked]">mailto:[email-masked]</a>] <b>On Behalf Of
                </b>Oudesluys<br>
                <b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM<br>
                <b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
                <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel</span></p>
          </div>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
        <div>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Of what I can see the steering wheel does
            look very nice and patinated. I would not do anything to it
            apart from cleaning it with white spirits on a rough cloth
            or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in some linseed oil.<br>
            Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the
            aluminium. It may have been coated only with a wax or oil,
            e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find anything.<br>
            <br>
            <br>
            Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with
            acrylic paint. If that is the case this must be completely
            removed before repainting.<br>
            Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly
            with white spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand
            paper until the colour is even and all lacquer is removed
            but remove as little wood/aluminium material as possible.
            Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft round
            brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats
            or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over
            20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry
            thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade in
            between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a
            satin finish, but others prefer gloss.<br>
            Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw
            linseed oil and leave every coat to dry for at least a week
            at summer temperatures.<br>
            Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but
            walnut can be used as well. Lighter woods are also used.
            Yours looks like mahogany ply.<br>
            It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old
            battered Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).<br>
            <br>
            I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based
            lacquer and also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter
            method. The drawback may be that in the beginning your hands
            will smell of linseed oil.<br>
            <br>
            Kees Oudesluijs<br>
             <br>
            Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:</p>
        </div>
        <blockquote>
          <pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were black plastic. </pre>
          <pre> </pre>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><br>
            <br>
            <br>
          </p>
          <pre>_______________________________________________</pre>
          <pre>Support Team.Net <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></pre>
          <pre>Suggested annual donation  $12.75</pre>
          <pre>Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></pre>
          <pre>Forums: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a></pre>
          <pre> </pre>
          <pre><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></pre>
          <pre><a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a></pre>
          <pre> </pre>
          <pre>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a></pre>
          <pre> </pre>
          <p class="MsoNormal"><br>
            <br>
            <br>
          </p>
          <pre>-----</pre>
          <pre>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.</pre>
          <pre>Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</a></pre>
          <pre>Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: 12/31/15</pre>
        </blockquote>
        <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
      </div>
      <p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
        Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
          href="http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</a><br>
        Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11296 - datum van
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[email-masked]

--===============1501433554188429553==--

---

From: "Mark Donaldson" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2016 13:35:22 +1300

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Kees,

I do the same as you - a light clean-up now and then to remove oils from my
hands, and road film.  I use either an old 'Scotchbrite' scouring pad, or
fine soap-impregnated steel wool, followed by an application of furniture
polish on a soft cloth.  Here in New Zealand we use either CO polishing oil,
or Neopol.  After the oil has sunk in to the wood there is only a minor
smell - and it is rather nice.

My steering wheel is the same as Chris'.  It's been on my BN2 for decades.
It does not appear to have ever been coated in any finish.  The principal
laminates - alternating dark and light - are Mahogany and Obeche.

Compliments of the season.

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

  _____  

From: Oudesluys [mailto:[email-masked]] 
Sent: Friday, 1 January 2016 6:43 a.m.
To: [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel

Kees Oudesluijs

 
[email-masked]

-----

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<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DCalibri><span =
style=3D'font-size:
11.0pt;font-family:Calibri;color:navy'>Kees,<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>=

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DCalibri><span =
style=3D'font-size:
11.0pt;font-family:Calibri;color:navy'>I do the same as you - a light =
clean-up now
and then to remove oils from my hands, and road film.&nbsp; I use either =
an old
'Scotchbrite' scouring pad, or fine soap-impregnated steel wool, =
followed by an
application of furniture polish on a soft cloth.&nbsp; Here in =
<st1:country-region
w:st=3D"on"><st1:place w:st=3D"on">New =
Zealand</st1:place></st1:country-region> we
use either CO polishing oil, or Neopol.&nbsp; After the oil has sunk in =
to the
wood there is only a minor smell - and it is rather =
nice.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DCalibri><span =
style=3D'font-size:
11.0pt;font-family:Calibri;color:navy'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p=

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DCalibri><span =
style=3D'font-size:
11.0pt;font-family:Calibri;color:navy'>My steering wheel is the same as =
Chris'.
&nbsp;It's been on my BN2 for decades.&nbsp; It does not appear to have =
ever
been coated in any finish.&nbsp; The principal laminates - alternating =
dark and
light - are Mahogany and Obeche.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DCalibri><span =
style=3D'font-size:
11.0pt;font-family:Calibri;color:navy'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p=

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DCalibri><span =
style=3D'font-size:
11.0pt;font-family:Calibri;color:navy'>Compliments of the =
season.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DCalibri><span =
style=3D'font-size:
11.0pt;font-family:Calibri;color:navy'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p=

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DCalibri><span =
style=3D'font-size:
11.0pt;font-family:Calibri;color:navy'>Mark<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><st1:City w:st=3D"on"><st1:place w:st=3D"on"><font =
size=3D2
  color=3Dnavy face=3DCalibri><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:Calibri;
  color:navy'>Ardmore</span></font></st1:place></st1:City><font size=3D2
color=3Dnavy face=3DCalibri><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:Calibri;
color:navy'>, NZ<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DCalibri><span =
style=3D'font-size:
11.0pt;font-family:Calibri;color:navy'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p=

<div>

<div class=3DMsoNormal align=3Dcenter style=3D'text-align:center'><font =
size=3D3
color=3Dblack face=3D"Times New Roman"><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;
color:windowtext'>

<hr size=3D3 width=3D"100%" align=3Dcenter tabindex=3D-1>

</span></font></div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><b><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DTahoma><span =
lang=3DEN-US
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma;color:windowtext;font-weight=
:bold'>From:</span></font></b><font
size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3DTahoma><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Tahoma;color:windowtext'> Oudesluys =
[mailto:[email-masked]] <br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Friday, 1 January =
2016 6:43
a.m.<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> =
[email-masked]<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> Re: [Healeys] =
Refinish
steering wheel</span></font><font color=3Dblack><span lang=3DEN-US
style=3D'color:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></p>

<div>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'>Of what I can see the steering wheel does =
look very
nice and patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it =
with
white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in =
some
linseed oil.<br>
Look for remnants of lacquer&nbsp; on the inside of the aluminium. It =
may have
been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find
anything.<br>
<br>
<br>
Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint. =
If
that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.<br>
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white
spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is =
even
and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material =
as
possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft round =
brush with
PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood floors) with =
about 4-5
coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let =
every coat
dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade in between =
the
coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish, but others =
prefer
gloss.<br>
Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil =
and
leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.<br>
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be =
used as
well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.<br>
It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered =
Moto-Lita
wheel (same manufacturer).<br>
<br>
I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also =
using
raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be that in =
the
beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
&nbsp;<br>
Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris =
Scholz:<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<blockquote style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'
cite=3D"mid:[email-masked]" =
type=3Dcite><pre
wrap=3D""><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt'>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to =
improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?&nbsp; The wood is in very =
good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start =
sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what =
kind of wood they used?&nbsp; Are these maple?&nbsp; I know they are not =
original. I see the original wheels were black plastic. =
<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></pre>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><br>
<br>
<br>
<fieldset =
class=3D"mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<pre><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>______________________________________________=
_<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
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style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Support Team.Net <a
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
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$12.75<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
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t
size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><a
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><o:p></o=
:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><a
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team=
.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><fon=
t
size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></pre><pre><fon=
t
size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.=
nl">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</=
a><o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></font></pre>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><br>
<br>
<br>
<fieldset =
class=3D"mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<pre><font size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>-----<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font=

size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Geen virus gevonden in dit =
bericht.<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a
href=3D"http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></pre=
><pre><font
size=3D2 color=3Dblack face=3D"Courier New"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: =
4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: =
12/31/15<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre></blockquote>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><font size=3D3 color=3Dblack face=3D"Times New =
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[email-masked]

--===============1962019860416235071==--

---

From: richard mayor <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 18:35:29 -0800

--===============7615935925279957454==

--089e013a22faebbfed05283c9f09
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries. Check out boiled linseed
oil.

On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris Scholz <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> I think I'll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from there. Thank=
s
> for the input.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Chris Scholz OD
>
> On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker <[email-masked]>
> wrote:
>
> HELLO
>
> Please define =E2=80=93White spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]
> <[email-masked]>] *On Behalf Of *Oudesluys
> would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with white spirits on =
a
> material as possible. Remove all the dust carefully. Repaint using a soft
> round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as used on boats or wood
> floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C so the lacquer will
> flow evenly. Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few days and sand lightl=
y
> with 400 grade in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using=
 a
> satin finish, but others prefer gloss.
> using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be th=
at
> I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the loo=
ks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would li=
ke to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the meta=
l rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are =
these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were =
black plastic.
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesl=
[email-masked]
> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: 12/=
31/15
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>

--089e013a22faebbfed05283c9f09
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr">Be careful using raw linseed oil. It never dries. Check ou=
t boiled linseed oil.=C2=A0 <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Dec 31, 2015 at 3:24 PM, Chris Scholz <span di=
r=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_bla=
nk">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padd=
ing-left:1ex">

<div dir=3D"auto">
<div>I think I&#39;ll clean mine up with linseed oil and take it from there=
. Thanks for the input.=C2=A0<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone
<div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
</div>
<div><br>
On Dec 31, 2015, at 4:44 PM, Doug Barker &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:douglas.bark=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrot=
e:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>

<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">HELLO<u></u><u></u></span=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">I was just thinking of do=
ing mine also so this is good timing:<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">My wheel is I believe aMo=
tta but much lighter wood<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Please define =E2=80=93Wh=
ite spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Also PU solvent based PU?=
<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Thanks-everything else I =
agree with<u></u><u></u></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:14.0pt;font-family:&quot;Ca=
libri&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></spa=
n></p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #b5c4df 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot=
;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:windowtext">From:</span></b><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif=
&quot;;color:windowtext"> Healeys [<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.=
team.net" target=3D"_blank">mailto:[email-masked]</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">heal=
[email-masked]</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel<u></u><u></u></span><=
/p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very =
nice and patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it wi=
th white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing in=
 some linseed oil.<br>
Look for remnants of lacquer=C2=A0 on the inside of the aluminium. It may h=
ave been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you cannot find=
 anything.<br>
<br>
<br>
Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic paint. If=
 that is the case this must be completely removed before repainting.<br>
Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with white spi=
rits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the colour is even =
and all lacquer is removed but remove as little wood/aluminium material as =
possible. Remove all the dust carefully.
 Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer (as u=
sed on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well over 20C =
so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry thoroughly for a few da=
ys and sand lightly with 400 grade
 in between the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish,=
 but others prefer gloss.<br>
Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed oil and=
 leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer temperatures.<br>
Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be used=
 as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.<br>
It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered Moto-Lita=
 wheel (same manufacturer).<br>
<br>
I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and also us=
ing raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback may be that i=
n the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
=C2=A0<br>
Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<pre>I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the =
looks of my wooden steering wheel?=C2=A0 The wood is in very good shape. I =
would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since =
the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they use=
d?=C2=A0 Are these maple?=C2=A0 I know they are not original. I see the ori=
ginal wheels were black plastic. <u></u><u></u></pre>
<pre><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></pre>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
<u></u><u></u></p>
<pre>_______________________________________________<u></u><u></u></pre>
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<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<br>
<u></u><u></u></p>
<pre>-----<u></u><u></u></pre>
<pre>Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<u></u><u></u></pre>
<pre>Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a href=3D"http://www.avg.com" target=3D"_bla=
nk">www.avg.com</a><u></u><u></u></pre>
<pre>Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11293 - datum van uitgifte: =
12/31/15<u></u><u></u></pre>
</blockquote>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
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