Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coker Tires

From: JOHN BAHE SR <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2015 16:40:48 -0400

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Alan Hendrix says you need a minimum of 26 3/4 inches measuring between the
bottom opening of the rear wheel wells to use a 185 X 15 tire.  The
Vredestein 185 x 15  tire is 26.60 in diameter.....that is the tire Alan
sells !!  Hope you can use this info !!

John

On Sun, Aug 23, 2015 at 2:57 PM, Steve B. Gerow <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> Ira Erbs wrote:
> >>>
>
> I have a chance to buy 4 new Coker 185/15 tires for $250.00
> Tried looking at the archives, but got confusing replies.
> Will these work on my BN4? New springs in back.
> <<<
>
> The most correct size is 180/15, which the Longstone/Coker Michelins fit
> well and fill the wheel wells.
>
> 5 mm isn't much of a difference. You might get some scrubbing in the
> front. This is a high profile tire which should
> look manly on the Healey!
>
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> 59BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

-- 
John A Bahe Sr.
Cell:  (502) 599-2696
[email-masked]

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Alan Hendrix says you need a minimum of 26 3/4 inches meas=
uring between the bottom opening of the rear wheel wells to use a 185 X 15 =
tire.=C2=A0 The Vredestein 185 x 15 =C2=A0tire is 26.60 in diameter.....tha=
t is the tire Alan sells !!=C2=A0 Hope you can use this info !!<div><br></d=
iv><div>John</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_=
quote">On Sun, Aug 23, 2015 at 2:57 PM, Steve B. Gerow <span dir=3D"ltr">&l=
t;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">steveg@abrazo=
sdata.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Ira Erbs=
 wrote:<br>
&gt;&gt;&gt;<br>
<br>
I have a chance to buy 4 new Coker 185/15 tires for $250.00<br>
Tried looking at the archives, but got confusing replies.<br>
Will these work on my BN4? New springs in back.<br>
&lt;&lt;&lt;<br>
<br>
The most correct size is 180/15, which the Longstone/Coker Michelins fit we=
ll and fill the wheel wells.<br>
<br>
5 mm isn&#39;t much of a difference. You might get some scrubbing in the fr=
ont. This is a high profile tire which should<br>
look manly on the Healey!<br>
<br>
<br>
--<br>
Steve Gerow<br>
59BN6<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.t=
eam.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div><br><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div class=
=3D"gmail_signature"><div>John A Bahe Sr.</div><div><div>Cell:=C2=A0 (502) =
599-2696</div><div><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank=
">[email-masked]</a></div></div></div>
</div>

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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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--===============1287823744464233354==--

---

From: "Steve B. Gerow" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2015 13:50:21 -0800

John/Ira,
I'm currently running the 180-15 Michelins Longstone sells, which are evidently the same as those Coker sells (made in 
Serbia by Michelin). Both suppliers list them at 26.8" in diameter. Mine measure 27" as mounted when measured 
horizontally.

Coker lists the 180 but not the 185. Maybe Ira typed the size incorrectly.

These are period-style higher-profile tires and look and ride great.

-- 
Steve Gerow

>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: JOHN BAHE SR <[email-masked]>
>  To: Steve B. Gerow <[email-masked]>
>  Cc: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coker Tires
>  Sent: Aug 23 '15 12:40
>  
>  Alan Hendrix says you need a minimum of 26 3/4 inches measuring
>  between the bottom opening of the rear wheel wells to use a 185 X 15
>  tire.  The Vredestein 185 x 15  tire is 26.60 in diameter.....that is
>  the tire Alan sells !!  Hope you can use this info !!
>  
>  John
>  
>  On Sun, Aug 23, 2015 at 2:57 PM, Steve B. Gerow
>  <[email-masked]> wrote:
>  
>  > Ira Erbs wrote:
>  >>>>
>  >
>  > The most correct size is 180/15, which the Longstone/Coker
>  > Michelins fit well and fill the wheel wells.
>  >
>  > 5 mm isn't much of a difference. You might get some scrubbing in
>  > the front. This is a high profile tire which should

[email-masked]

---

From: I Erbs <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2015 15:36:43 -0700

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--bcaec548598ea8fadd051e0222a2

The seller says 185. I asked for a photo of the info.

Mr. Ira Erbs
On Aug 23, 2015 2:50 PM, "Steve B. Gerow" <[email-masked]> wrote:

> John/Ira,
> I'm currently running the 180-15 Michelins Longstone sells, which are
> evidently the same as those Coker sells (made in
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<p dir=3D"ltr">The seller says 185. I asked for a photo of the info.</p>
<p dir=3D"ltr">Mr. Ira Erbs</p>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Aug 23, 2015 2:50 PM, &quot;Steve B. Gerow&qu=
ot; &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt; wrote:<br type=3D"attribution"><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" styl=
e=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">John/Ir=
a,<br>
I&#39;m currently running the 180-15 Michelins Longstone sells, which are e=
vidently the same as those Coker sells (made in<br>
Serbia by Michelin). Both suppliers list them at 26.8&quot; in diameter. Mi=
ne measure 27&quot; as mounted when measured<br>
horizontally.<br>
<br>
Coker lists the 180 but not the 185. Maybe Ira typed the size incorrectly.<=
br>
<br>
These are period-style higher-profile tires and look and ride great.<br>
<br>
--<br>
Steve Gerow<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 -------Original Message-------<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 From: JOHN BAHE SR &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">j=
[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 To: Steve B. Gerow &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 Cc: <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
.net</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
et</a>&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coker Tires<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 Sent: Aug 23 &#39;15 12:40<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 Alan Hendrix says you need a minimum of 26 3/4 inches measuring<=
br>
&gt;=C2=A0 between the bottom opening of the rear wheel wells to use a 185 =
X 15<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 tire.=C2=A0 The Vredestein 185 x 15=C2=A0 tire is 26.60 in diame=
ter.....that is<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 the tire Alan sells !!=C2=A0 Hope you can use this info !!<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 John<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 On Sun, Aug 23, 2015 at 2:57 PM, Steve B. Gerow<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">steveg@abrazosdata=
.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; Ira Erbs wrote:<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; I have a chance to buy 4 new Coker 185/15 tires for $250.00=
<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; Tried looking at the archives, but got confusing replies.<b=
r>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; Will these work on my BN4? New springs in back.<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; &lt;&lt;&lt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; The most correct size is 180/15, which the Longstone/Coker<=
br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; Michelins fit well and fill the wheel wells.<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; 5 mm isn&#39;t much of a difference. You might get some scr=
ubbing in<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; the front. This is a high profile tire which should<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; look manly on the Healey!<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; --<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; Steve Gerow<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; 59BN6<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; _______________________________________________<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html=
" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><=
br>
&gt;=C2=A0 &gt; Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
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net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 --<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 John A Bahe Sr.<br>
&gt;<br>
&gt;=C2=A0 Cell:=C2=A0 <a href=3D"tel:%28502%29%20599-2696" value=3D"+15025=
992696">(502) 599-2696</a><br>
&gt;=C2=A0 <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>=
<br>
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s/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]</a><br>
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</blockquote></div>

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[email-masked]

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---

From: "Roger Grace" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2015 20:06:09 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Look at the Longstone site; there is indeed a 185 HR 15 Michelin XVS-P =
with 1mm shorter diameter than the XAS 180 HR 15. The XAS is the one =
with the asymmetrical tread pattern recommended for our cars.

See quote from their website:

=E2=80=9CMichelin excellent XVS & XVS-P range of tyres are asymmetric =
tyres that make a remarkable improvement to the directional stability of =
a classic cars. The XVS and XVS-P tyres are a development of the earlier =
Michelin XAS. The difference between the XVS and the XVS-P tyre is that =
the XVS-P has a raised curbing band on the outside of the tyre. =
=E2=80=9C

rg

From: I Erbs=20
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2015 3:36 PM
To: Steve B. Gerow=20
Cc: Ahealey help=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coker Tires

Mr. Ira Erbs

On Aug 23, 2015 2:50 PM, "Steve B. Gerow" <[email-masked]> =
wrote:

  John/Ira,
  I'm currently running the 180-15 Michelins Longstone sells, which are =
evidently the same as those Coker sells (made in
  Serbia by Michelin). Both suppliers list them at 26.8" in diameter. =
Mine measure 27" as mounted when measured
  horizontally.

  Coker lists the 180 but not the 185. Maybe Ira typed the size =
incorrectly.

  --
  Steve Gerow

  >  between the bottom opening of the rear wheel wells to use a 185 X =
15
  >  tire.  The Vredestein 185 x 15  tire is 26.60 in diameter.....that =
is
  >  > =

  [email-masked]

  Unsubscribe/Manage: =

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6086 / Virus Database: 4392/10494 - Release Date: =
08/23/15

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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Comic Sans MS'; COLOR: =
#000000">
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Comic Sans MS'; COLOR: =
#000000">
<DIV>Look at the Longstone site; there is indeed a 185 HR 15 Michelin =
XVS-P with=20
1mm shorter diameter than the XAS 180 HR 15. The XAS is the one with the =

asymmetrical tread pattern recommended for our cars.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>See quote from their website:</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">=E2=80=9CMichelin excellent XVS =
&amp; XVS-P range of=20
tyres are asymmetric tyres that make a remarkable improvement to the =
directional=20
stability of a classic cars. The XVS and XVS-P tyres are a development =
of the=20
earlier Michelin XAS. The difference between the XVS and the XVS-P tyre =
is that=20
the XVS-P has a raised curbing band on the outside of the tyre. =
=E2=80=9C</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>rg</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">I Erbs</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, August 23, 2015 3:36 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Steve B. Gerow</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=[email-masked]=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Ahealey help</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Coker Tires</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<P dir=3Dltr>The seller says 185. I asked for a photo of the info.</P>
<P dir=3Dltr>Mr. Ira Erbs</P>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Aug 23, 2015 2:50 PM, "Steve B. Gerow" =
&lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A>&gt; =
wrote:<BR=20
type=3D"attribution">
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc =
1px solid">John/Ira,<BR>I'm=20
  currently running the 180-15 Michelins Longstone sells, which are =
evidently=20
  the same as those Coker sells (made in<BR>Serbia by Michelin). Both =
suppliers=20
  list them at 26.8" in diameter. Mine measure 27" as mounted when=20
  measured<BR>horizontally.<BR><BR>Coker lists the 180 but not the 185. =
Maybe=20
  Ira typed the size incorrectly.<BR><BR>These are period-style =
higher-profile=20
  tires and look and ride great.<BR><BR>--<BR>Steve=20
  Gerow<BR><BR><BR><BR>&gt;&nbsp; -------Original =
Message-------<BR>&gt;&nbsp;=20
  From: JOHN BAHE SR &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A>&gt;<BR>&gt;=
&nbsp;=20
  To: Steve B. Gerow &lt;<A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A>&gt;<BR>=
&gt;&nbsp;=20
  Cc: <A =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A> &lt;<A =

  =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A>&gt;<BR>=
&gt;&nbsp;=20
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coker Tires<BR>&gt;&nbsp; Sent: Aug 23 '15=20
  12:40<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;&nbsp; Alan Hendrix says you need a minimum of 26 =
3/4=20
  inches measuring<BR>&gt;&nbsp; between the bottom opening of the rear =
wheel=20
  wells to use a 185 X 15<BR>&gt;&nbsp; tire.&nbsp; The Vredestein 185 x =

  15&nbsp; tire is 26.60 in diameter.....that is<BR>&gt;&nbsp; the tire =
Alan=20
  sells !!&nbsp; Hope you can use this info !!<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;&nbsp;=20
  John<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;&nbsp; On Sun, Aug 23, 2015 at 2:57 PM, Steve B.=20
  Gerow<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &lt;<A=20
  href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A>&gt;=20
  wrote:<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; Ira Erbs wrote:<BR>&gt;&nbsp;=20
  &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt;<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; I have a chance =
to buy=20
  4 new Coker 185/15 tires for $250.00<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; Tried looking =
at the=20
  archives, but got confusing replies.<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; Will these =
work on my=20
  BN4? New springs in back.<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; =
&lt;&lt;&lt;<BR>&gt;&nbsp;=20
  &gt;<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; The most correct size is 180/15, which the=20
  Longstone/Coker<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; Michelins fit well and fill the =
wheel=20
  wells.<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt;<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; 5 mm isn't much of a =
difference.=20
  You might get some scrubbing in<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; the front. This is =
a high=20
  profile tire which should<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; look manly on the=20
  Healey!<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt;<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; --<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; =
Steve=20
  Gerow<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; 59BN6<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt;=20
  _______________________________________________<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; =
Support=20
  Team.Net <A href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3Dnoreferrer=20
  target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/donate.html</A><BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; =
Suggested=20
  annual donation $12.75<BR>&gt;&nbsp; &gt; Archive: <A=20
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Forums: <A=20
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&gt;<BR>&gt;&nbsp;=20
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href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</A><BR>&gt;=
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[email-masked]

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---

From: "Charlie Schott" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2015 13:04:19 -0500

When the gas gauge on my 1960 BT7 reads 1/4, I'm out of gas. Can the sending 
unit or the gauge be adjusted? Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott

[email-masked]

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked] 

[email-masked]

---

From: "Steve B. Gerow" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2015 10:21:18 -0800

Charlie,
This can be because the sender is incorrectly oriented and the float is hanging up on the edge of the "well" rather than 
going down into it all the way.

Try rotating the sender 180 degrees.

Also helps to run a separate ground wire from the sender to the chassis.

-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6 w lotsa mods

>  From: Charlie Schott <[email-masked]>
>  To: Steve B. Gerow <[email-masked]>, [email-masked]
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas Gauge
>  Sent: Aug 25 '15 10:04
>  

[email-masked]

ox.team.net

---

From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2015 11:55:12 -0700

Charlie:  Once you have the float dropping into the well - in my case, 
oriented toward the  front of the car - if there is still error you can try 
fine tuning it by bending the float arm.

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Charlie Schott" <[email-masked]>
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <[email-masked]>; <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas Gauge

> When the gas gauge on my 1960 BT7 reads 1/4, I'm out of gas. Can the 
> sending unit or the gauge be adjusted? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
>
>
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
> 

[email-masked]

---

From: Bob Spidell <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2015 19:16:05 +0000 (UTC)

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The gauge in our BN2 would register 3/4 full when it was topped-up. We bent the float arm down a smidge, now it reads bang on. You could try bending yours up--so the float would be lower--but, of course, full reading might be off. 

When you top up, does the gauge register full even after you've burned a few gallons? 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----

Regards, 

Charlie Schott 

------=_Part_10991319_60852434.1440530165586
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<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #0000=
00"><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">The gauge in our BN2 would register 3/=
4 full when it was topped-up.&nbsp; We bent the float arm down a smidge, no=
w it reads bang on.&nbsp; You could try bending yours up--so the float woul=
d be lower--but, of course, full reading might be off.<br></div><div aria-l=
abel=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body">When you t=
op up, does the gauge register full even after you've burned a few gallons?=
<br></div><div aria-label=3D"Compose body"><br></div><div aria-label=3D"Com=
pose body">Bob<br></div><div><br></div><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div style=3D"color=
:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family=
:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;" data-mce-style=3D"color: #000;=
 font-weight: normal; font-style: normal; text-decoration: none; font-famil=
y: Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"><br><div><br></div>When th=
e gas gauge on my 1960 BT7 reads 1/4, I'm out of gas. Can the sending <br>u=
nit or the gauge be adjusted? Thanks.<br><div><br></div>Regards,<br><div><b=
r></div>Charlie Schott<br><div><br></div><br></div></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

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---

From: "Reinhart Rosner" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2015 22:45:41 +0200

This is a multipart message in MIME format.

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Or you just learn to live with it. In my BN1 the gauge reads empty when =
completely full. When it reads full, I know that the tank is 3/4 full. =
And when it reads 1/4 full, I know that it=E2=80=99s about getting =
empty.=20

=20

It took me several attempts to really seal all around where the sender =
sits. So I did not want to open that up again.

=20

Reinhart

=20

=20

=20

Reinhart Rosner

55 100 BN 1

Vienna =E2=80=93 Austria

=20

=20

Von: Healeys [mailto:[email-masked]] Im Auftrag von Bob =
Spidell
Gesendet: Dienstag, 25. August 2015 21:16
An: Charlie Schott
Cc: healeys
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Gas Gauge

=20

The gauge in our BN2 would register 3/4 full when it was topped-up.  We =
bent the float arm down a smidge, now it reads bang on.  You could try =
bending yours up--so the float would be lower--but, of course, full =
reading might be off.

=20

When you top up, does the gauge register full even after you've burned a =
few gallons?

=20

Bob

=20

  _____ =20

=20

=20

When the gas gauge on my 1960 BT7 reads 1/4, I'm out of gas. Can the =
sending=20
unit or the gauge be adjusted? Thanks.

=20

Regards,

=20

Charlie Schott

=20

=20

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DDE-AT link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Or you just learn to live with it. In my BN1 the gauge reads empty =
when completely full. When it reads full, I know that the tank is 3/4 =
full. And when it reads 1/4 full, I know that it=E2=80=99s about getting =
empty. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>It took me several attempts to really seal all around where the =
sender sits. So I did not want to open that up =
again.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Reinhart<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Reinhart Rosner<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>55 100 BN 1<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Vienna =E2=80=93 Austria<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DDE =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>Von:</span><=
/b><span lang=3DDE =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Healeys =
[mailto:[email-masked]] <b>Im Auftrag von </b>Bob =
Spidell<br><b>Gesendet:</b> Dienstag, 25. August 2015 =
21:16<br><b>An:</b> Charlie Schott<br><b>Cc:</b> =
healeys<br><b>Betreff:</b> Re: [Healeys] Gas =
Gauge<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>The gauge in our =
BN2 would register 3/4 full when it was topped-up.&nbsp; We bent the =
float arm down a smidge, now it reads bang on.&nbsp; You could try =
bending yours up--so the float would be lower--but, of course, full =
reading might be off.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>When you top up, =
does the gauge register full even after you've burned a few =
gallons?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Bob<o:p></o:p></sp=
an></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p><=
/span></p></div><div class=3DMsoNormal align=3Dcenter =
style=3D'text-align:center'><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'><hr size=3D3 =
width=3D"100%" align=3Dcenter id=3Dzwchr></span></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o=
:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o=
:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'>When the gas =
gauge on my 1960 BT7 reads 1/4, I'm out of gas. Can the sending <br>unit =
or the gauge be adjusted? Thanks.<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o=
:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'>Regards,<o:p><=
/o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o=
:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'>Charlie =
Schott<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o=
:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Helvetica","sans-serif";color:black'><o:p>&nbsp;</o=
:p></span></p></div></div></div></body></html>
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[email-masked]

--===============7621345111798608333==--

---

From: "John Spaur" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2015 22:18:34 -0700

Yes! Will you ever be able to adjust it so it works even remotely close to
accurate? I don't think so. There are many posts covering issues with the
fuel gauge and tank unit. My gauge and sender were "calibrated" by a couple
of shops. The sender is a restored original. Afterwards, it would still
stick on full, then when over half a tank was used it would drop to 1/2,
then 1/4 and stop.

I finally calibrated my gauge, with a little more success than the
professionals, using the calibration unit in this link:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm BTW, I pulled the sender out of
the car and calibrated it on the bench. You will need to approximate the
high and low limits which are determined by the depth of the petrol tank.

Be warned, it still is almost fruitless. I believe the problem is caused by
how the fuel gauge T and B coils line up with the armature. The fuel gauge
needle is connected to the armature and swings based on the magnetic current
supplied by the sending unit. Over the years the coils have tilted and
cannot be properly aligned with the armature when the nut is tightened. This
throws off the adjustment.

Let me know how it goes.

Regards,

John Spaur
'62 BT7

[email-masked]

---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 07:27:00 -0400

--089e0160b5f41a5622051e352142

--089e0160b5f41a561c051e352140

Actually a Healey fuel gauge can be made to work very accurately. The gauge
in my 100 is as steady as a rock and a very accurate indicator of the tank
contents.
The only change I made was to add a tiny connecting link between the float
arm and the body of the gauge sender as in the attached pic.
Prior to doing this I had no idea that a gauge of this type could work so
well.

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 1:18 AM, John Spaur <[email-masked]> wrote:

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>

-- 
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*

--089e0160b5f41a561c051e352140
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Actually a Healey fuel gauge can be made =
to work very accurately. The gauge in my 100 is as steady as a rock and a v=
ery accurate indicator of the tank contents.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The =
only change I made was to add a tiny connecting link between the float arm =
and the body of the gauge sender as in the attached pic.<br></div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size=
:small">Prior to doing this I had no idea that a gauge of this type could w=
ork so well.<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family=
:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D=
"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:sma=
ll">BN1 #174<br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gm=
ail_quote">On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 1:18 AM, John Spaur <span dir=3D"ltr">&l=
t;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">jmsdarch@sbcg=
lobal.net</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Yes! Wil=
l you ever be able to adjust it so it works even remotely close to<br>
accurate? I don&#39;t think so. There are many posts covering issues with t=
he<br>
fuel gauge and tank unit. My gauge and sender were &quot;calibrated&quot; b=
y a couple<br>
of shops. The sender is a restored original. Afterwards, it would still<br>
stick on full, then when over half a tank was used it would drop to 1/2,<br=
then 1/4 and stop.<br>
<br>
I finally calibrated my gauge, with a little more success than the<br>
professionals, using the calibration unit in this link:<br>
<a href=3D"http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
 target=3D"_blank">http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm</a> BTW, I =
pulled the sender out of<br>
the car and calibrated it on the bench. You will need to approximate the<br=
high and low limits which are determined by the depth of the petrol tank.<b=
r>
<br>
Be warned, it still is almost fruitless. I believe the problem is caused by=
<br>
how the fuel gauge T and B coils line up with the armature. The fuel gauge<=
br>
needle is connected to the armature and swings based on the magnetic curren=
t<br>
supplied by the sending unit. Over the years the coils have tilted and<br>
cannot be properly aligned with the armature when the nut is tightened. Thi=
s<br>
throws off the adjustment.<br>
<br>
Let me know how it goes.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
John Spaur<br>
&#39;62 BT7<br>
<div class=3D"HOEnZb"><div class=3D"h5"><br>
_______________________________________________<br>
rer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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--089e0160b5f41a561c051e352140--

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[email-masked]

--089e0160b5f41a5622051e352142--

---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 13:49:15 +0200

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============8852240153521105892==
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--------------080100070205050604080407
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If a sender is not working properly it may be that a wrong type is 
fitted with a float lever rod that is to short, to long or bend in the 
wrong way. If it is to short the dial will indicate the full range from 
empty to full while the tank is not full when it reads empty correctly 
or the other way around. If the lever rod is to long the dial will not 
read its full scale indicating partially full when full and/or partially 
full when empty. Lengthening or shortening is a fairly easy operation 
but needs some experimenting and a dead level floor.
Also a bend lever may lead to faulty readings similar to those above.

On the early coil type gauges you can fit a big capacitor to counteract 
more or less the continuous restless moving about of the needle which 
you do not have on the later bi-metal gauges that give a steady reading.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 26-8-2015 om 13:27 schreef Michael Salter:
> Actually a Healey fuel gauge can be made to work very accurately. The 
> gauge in my 100 is as steady as a rock and a very accurate indicator 
> of the tank contents.
> The only change I made was to add a tiny connecting link between the 
> float arm and the body of the gauge sender as in the attached pic.
> Prior to doing this I had no idea that a gauge of this type could work 
> so well.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 1:18 AM, John Spaur <[email-masked] 
>
> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2015.0.6125 / Virusdatabase: 4409/10513 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 08/26/15
>

--------------080100070205050604080407
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">If a sender is not working properly it
      may be that a wrong type is fitted with a float lever rod that is
      to short, to long or bend in the wrong way. If it is to short the
      dial will indicate the full range from empty to full while the
      tank is not full when it reads empty correctly or the other way
      around. If the lever rod is to long the dial will not read its
      full scale indicating partially full when full and/or partially
      full when empty. Lengthening or shortening is a fairly easy
      operation but needs some experimenting and a dead level floor.<br>
      Also a bend lever may lead to faulty readings similar to those
      above.<br>
      <br>
      On the early coil type gauges you can fit a big capacitor to
      counteract more or less the continuous restless moving about of
      the needle which you do not have on the later bi-metal gauges that
      give a steady reading.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 26-8-2015 om 13:27 schreef Michael Salter:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div class="gmail_default">Actually a Healey fuel gauge can be
          made to work very accurately. The gauge in my 100 is as steady
          as a rock and a very accurate indicator of the tank contents.<br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">The only change I made was to add a
          tiny connecting link between the float arm and the body of the
          gauge sender as in the attached pic.<br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">Prior to doing this I had no idea
          that a gauge of this type could work so well.<br>
          <br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">Michael S<br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">BN1 #174<br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 1:18 AM, John
          Spaur <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span>
          wrote:<br>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote">Yes! Will you ever be able to
            adjust it so it works even remotely close to<br>
            accurate? I don't think so. There are many posts covering
            issues with the<br>
            fuel gauge and tank unit. My gauge and sender were
            "calibrated" by a couple<br>
            of shops. The sender is a restored original. Afterwards, it
            would still<br>
            stick on full, then when over half a tank was used it would
            drop to 1/2,<br>
            then 1/4 and stop.<br>
            <br>
            I finally calibrated my gauge, with a little more success
            than the<br>
            professionals, using the calibration unit in this link:<br>
            <a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm"
              rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm</a>
            BTW, I pulled the sender out of<br>
            the car and calibrated it on the bench. You will need to
            approximate the<br>
            high and low limits which are determined by the depth of the
            petrol tank.<br>
            <br>
            Be warned, it still is almost fruitless. I believe the
            problem is caused by<br>
            how the fuel gauge T and B coils line up with the armature.
            The fuel gauge<br>
            needle is connected to the armature and swings based on the
            magnetic current<br>
            supplied by the sending unit. Over the years the coils have
            tilted and<br>
            cannot be properly aligned with the armature when the nut is
            tightened. This<br>
            throws off the adjustment.<br>
            <br>
            Let me know how it goes.<br>
            <br>
            Regards,<br>
            <br>
            John Spaur<br>
            '62 BT7<br>
            <div class="HOEnZb">
              <div class="h5"><br>
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            <div>
              <div dir="ltr"><i><span>If you can't fix it with a hammer,
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[email-masked]

--===============8852240153521105892==--

---

From: Michael Salter <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 12:01:27 -0400

--===============7962473293754850738==

--001a11c383bc8fc8c8051e38f60a

Kees,
I would have to disagree with your recommendation of adding a capacitor to
the circuit to try to stabilize the needle on any fuel gauge system as has
been mentioned previously on this list.
Capacitors are energy storage devices and the sudden discharge of that
energy creates sparks.
A fuel tank is normally filled with a mixture of fuel vapour and air.
Certainly the ratio of air to fuel vapour has to be correct for an
explosion to occur (around 6% vapour) but, should it be within the correct
range which I agree is fairly unlikely, and the capacitor choose to
discharge the consequences would be, shall we say, unfortunate.
Entirely up to you but I certainly don't like the idea and would definitely
not recommend it..

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 7:49 AM, Oudesluys <[email-masked]> wrote:

> If a sender is not working properly it may be that a wrong type is fitted
> with a float lever rod that is to short, to long or bend in the wrong way.
> If it is to short the dial will indicate the full range from empty to full
> while the tank is not full when it reads empty correctly or the other way
> around. If the lever rod is to long the dial will not read its full scale
> indicating partially full when full and/or partially full when empty.
> Lengthening or shortening is a fairly easy operation but needs some
> experimenting and a dead level floor.
> more or less the continuous restless moving about of the needle which you
> do not have on the later bi-metal gauges that give a steady reading.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> gauge in my 100 is as steady as a rock and a very accurate indicator of the
> tank contents.
> [email-masked]://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com

--001a11c383bc8fc8c8051e38f60a
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Kees,<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defaul=
t" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I would h=
ave to disagree with your recommendation of adding a capacitor to the circu=
it to try to stabilize the needle on any fuel gauge system as has been ment=
ioned previously on this list.<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Capacitors are en=
ergy storage devices and the sudden discharge of that energy creates sparks=
. <br>A fuel tank is normally filled with a mixture of fuel vapour and air.=
 Certainly the ratio of air to fuel vapour has to be correct for an explosi=
on to occur (around 6% vapour) but, should it be within the correct range w=
hich I agree is fairly unlikely, and the capacitor choose to discharge the =
consequences would be, shall we say, unfortunate. <br></div><div class=3D"g=
mail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small=
">Entirely up to you but I certainly don&#39;t like the idea and would defi=
nitely not recommend it.. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"f=
ont-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:=
small">Michael S<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family=
:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div></div><div cla=
ss=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 7=
:49 AM, Oudesluys <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:coudesluijs@chell=
o.nl" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br><blo=
ckquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #c=
cc solid;padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div text=3D"#000000" bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF">
    <div>If a sender is not working properly it
      may be that a wrong type is fitted with a float lever rod that is
      to short, to long or bend in the wrong way. If it is to short the
      dial will indicate the full range from empty to full while the
      tank is not full when it reads empty correctly or the other way
      around. If the lever rod is to long the dial will not read its
      full scale indicating partially full when full and/or partially
      full when empty. Lengthening or shortening is a fairly easy
      operation but needs some experimenting and a dead level floor.<br>
      Also a bend lever may lead to faulty readings similar to those
      above.<br>
      <br>
      On the early coil type gauges you can fit a big capacitor to
      counteract more or less the continuous restless moving about of
      the needle which you do not have on the later bi-metal gauges that
      give a steady reading.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 26-8-2015 om 13:27 schreef Michael Salter:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div class=3D"h5">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr">
        <div class=3D"gmail_default">Actually a Healey fuel gauge can be
          made to work very accurately. The gauge in my 100 is as steady
          as a rock and a very accurate indicator of the tank contents.<br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default">The only change I made was to add a
          tiny connecting link between the float arm and the body of the
          gauge sender as in the attached pic.<br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default">Prior to doing this I had no idea
          that a gauge of this type could work so well.<br>
          <br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default">Michael S<br>
        </div>
        <div class=3D"gmail_default">BN1 #174<br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br>
        <div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 1:18 AM, John
          Spaur <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.=
net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span>
          wrote:<br>
          <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote">Yes! Will you ever be able to
            adjust it so it works even remotely close to<br>
            accurate? I don&#39;t think so. There are many posts covering
            issues with the<br>
            fuel gauge and tank unit. My gauge and sender were
            &quot;calibrated&quot; by a couple<br>
            of shops. The sender is a restored original. Afterwards, it
            would still<br>
            stick on full, then when over half a tank was used it would
            drop to 1/2,<br>
            then 1/4 and stop.<br>
            <br>
            I finally calibrated my gauge, with a little more success
            than the<br>
            professionals, using the calibration unit in this link:<br>
            <a href=3D"http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm" rel=3D=
"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm=
</a>
            BTW, I pulled the sender out of<br>
            the car and calibrated it on the bench. You will need to
            approximate the<br>
            high and low limits which are determined by the depth of the
            petrol tank.<br>
            <br>
            Be warned, it still is almost fruitless. I believe the
            problem is caused by<br>
            how the fuel gauge T and B coils line up with the armature.
            The fuel gauge<br>
            needle is connected to the armature and swings based on the
            magnetic current<br>
            supplied by the sending unit. Over the years the coils have
            tilted and<br>
            cannot be properly aligned with the armature when the nut is
            tightened. This<br>
            throws off the adjustment.<br>
            <br>
            Let me know how it goes.<br>
            <br>
            Regards,<br>
            <br>
            John Spaur<br>
            &#39;62 BT7<br>
            <div>
              <div><br>
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        -- <br>
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          <div dir=3D"ltr">
            <div>
              <div dir=3D"ltr"><i><span>If you can&#39;t fix it with a hamm=
er,
                    you&#39;ve got an electrical problem.</span></i><br>
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</pre>
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--001a11c383bc8fc8c8051e38f60a--

--===============7962473293754850738==
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[email-masked]

--===============7962473293754850738==--

---

From: Oudesluys <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 20:17:10 +0200

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============6994547932651791627==
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--------------080505010109040507060000
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Michael,

I understand your concerns but I do not think you have to worry as the 
capacitor is on the gauge terminals, the voltage remains 12V max. and 
the current is depending on the resistor in the fuel gauge sender and 
gauge itself, both resistors are fairly high so the current will be low 
with not more risk of sparking compared to the original system that can 
theoretically spark as well in the potentiometer of the sender.
The capacitor is just there to reduce the violent differences in voltage 
across the gauge terminals
Anyway a capacitor is supposed to reduce sparking, as with the capacitor 
across the distributor points.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 26-8-2015 om 18:01 schreef Michael Salter:
> Kees,
> I would have to disagree with your recommendation of adding a 
> capacitor to the circuit to try to stabilize the needle on any fuel 
> gauge system as has been mentioned previously on this list.
> explosion to occur (around 6% vapour) but, should it be within the 
> correct range which I agree is fairly unlikely, and the capacitor 
> choose to discharge the consequences would be, shall we say, unfortunate.
> Entirely up to you but I certainly don't like the idea and would 
> definitely not recommend it..
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 7:49 AM, Oudesluys <[email-masked] 
>
>     fitted with a float lever rod that is to short, to long or bend in
>     the wrong way. If it is to short the dial will indicate the full
>     range from empty to full while the tank is not full when it reads
>     empty correctly or the other way around. If the lever rod is to
>     long the dial will not read its full scale indicating partially
>     full when full and/or partially full when empty. Lengthening or
>     shortening is a fairly easy operation but needs some experimenting
>     and a dead level floor.
>     give a steady reading.
>>     Actually a Healey fuel gauge can be made to work very accurately.
>>     The gauge in my 100 is as steady as a rock and a very accurate
>>     indicator of the tank contents.
>>     The only change I made was to add a tiny connecting link between
>>     the float arm and the body of the gauge sender as in the attached
>>     pic.
>>     Prior to doing this I had no idea that a gauge of this type could
>>     work so well.
>>
>>     Michael S
>>     BN1 #174
>>
>>     On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 1:18 AM, John Spaur
>>
>>         issues with the
>>         "calibrated" by a couple
>>         would still
>>         drop to 1/2,
>>         than the
>>         approximate the
>>         petrol tank.
>>         problem is caused by
>>         The fuel gauge
>>         magnetic current
>>         tilted and
>>         tightened. This
>>     _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net
>>     http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums:
>>     http://www.team.net/forums [email-masked]
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>>
>>
>>
>>     uitgifte: 08/26/15

--------------080505010109040507060000
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Michael,<br>
      <br>
      I understand your concerns but I do not think you have to worry as
      the capacitor is on the gauge terminals, the voltage remains 12V
      max. and the current is depending on the resistor in the fuel
      gauge sender and gauge itself, both resistors are fairly high so
      the current will be low with not more risk of sparking compared to
      the original system that can theoretically spark as well in the
      potentiometer of the sender. <br>
      The capacitor is just there to reduce the violent differences in
      voltage across the gauge terminals<br>
      Anyway a capacitor is supposed to reduce sparking, as with the
      capacitor across the distributor points.<br>
      <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 26-8-2015 om 18:01 schreef Michael Salter:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:[email-masked]"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div class="gmail_default">Kees,<br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">I would have to disagree with your
          recommendation of adding a capacitor to the circuit to try to
          stabilize the needle on any fuel gauge system as has been
          mentioned previously on this list.<br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">Capacitors are energy storage devices
          and the sudden discharge of that energy creates sparks. <br>
          A fuel tank is normally filled with a mixture of fuel vapour
          and air. Certainly the ratio of air to fuel vapour has to be
          correct for an explosion to occur (around 6% vapour) but,
          should it be within the correct range which I agree is fairly
          unlikely, and the capacitor choose to discharge the
          consequences would be, shall we say, unfortunate. <br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">Entirely up to you but I certainly
          don't like the idea and would definitely not recommend it.. <br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default"><br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">Michael S<br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">BN1 #174<br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 7:49 AM,
          Oudesluys <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="mailto:[email-masked]" target="_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</span>
          wrote:<br>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote">
            <div>
              <div>If a sender is not working properly it may be that a
                wrong type is fitted with a float lever rod that is to
                short, to long or bend in the wrong way. If it is to
                short the dial will indicate the full range from empty
                to full while the tank is not full when it reads empty
                correctly or the other way around. If the lever rod is
                to long the dial will not read its full scale indicating
                partially full when full and/or partially full when
                empty. Lengthening or shortening is a fairly easy
                operation but needs some experimenting and a dead level
                floor.<br>
                Also a bend lever may lead to faulty readings similar to
                those above.<br>
                <br>
                On the early coil type gauges you can fit a big
                capacitor to counteract more or less the continuous
                restless moving about of the needle which you do not
                have on the later bi-metal gauges that give a steady
                reading.<br>
                Kees Oudesluijs<br>
                <br>
                <br>
                <br>
                Op 26-8-2015 om 13:27 schreef Michael Salter:<br>
              </div>
              <blockquote type="cite">
                <div>
                  <div class="h5">
                    <div dir="ltr">
                      <div class="gmail_default">Actually a Healey fuel
                        gauge can be made to work very accurately. The
                        gauge in my 100 is as steady as a rock and a
                        very accurate indicator of the tank contents.<br>
                      </div>
                      <div class="gmail_default">The only change I made
                        was to add a tiny connecting link between the
                        float arm and the body of the gauge sender as in
                        the attached pic.<br>
                      </div>
                      <div class="gmail_default">Prior to doing this I
                        had no idea that a gauge of this type could work
                        so well.<br>
                        <br>
                      </div>
                      <div class="gmail_default">Michael S<br>
                      </div>
                      <div class="gmail_default">BN1 #174<br>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                    <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
                      <div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at
                        1:18 AM, John Spaur <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a
                            moz-do-not-send="true"
                            href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                            target="_blank"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></a>&gt;</span>
                        wrote:<br>
                        <blockquote class="gmail_quote">Yes! Will you
                          ever be able to adjust it so it works even
                          remotely close to<br>
                          accurate? I don't think so. There are many
                          posts covering issues with the<br>
                          fuel gauge and tank unit. My gauge and sender
                          were "calibrated" by a couple<br>
                          of shops. The sender is a restored original.
                          Afterwards, it would still<br>
                          stick on full, then when over half a tank was
                          used it would drop to 1/2,<br>
                          then 1/4 and stop.<br>
                          <br>
                          I finally calibrated my gauge, with a little
                          more success than the<br>
                          professionals, using the calibration unit in
                          this link:<br>
                          <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                            href="http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm"
                            rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm</a>
                          BTW, I pulled the sender out of<br>
                          the car and calibrated it on the bench. You
                          will need to approximate the<br>
                          high and low limits which are determined by
                          the depth of the petrol tank.<br>
                          <br>
                          Be warned, it still is almost fruitless. I
                          believe the problem is caused by<br>
                          how the fuel gauge T and B coils line up with
                          the armature. The fuel gauge<br>
                          needle is connected to the armature and swings
                          based on the magnetic current<br>
                          supplied by the sending unit. Over the years
                          the coils have tilted and<br>
                          cannot be properly aligned with the armature
                          when the nut is tightened. This<br>
                          throws off the adjustment.<br>
                          <br>
                          Let me know how it goes.<br>
                          <br>
                          Regards,<br>
                          <br>
                          John Spaur<br>
                          '62 BT7<br>
                          <div>
                            <div><br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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                        </blockquote>
                      </div>
                      <br>
                      <br>
                      <br>
                      -- <br>
                      <div>
                        <div dir="ltr">
                          <div>
                            <div dir="ltr"><i><span>If you can't fix it
                                  with a hammer, you've got an
                                  electrical problem.</span></i><br>
                              <br>
                            </div>
                          </div>
                        </div>
                      </div>
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                    <br>
                    <fieldset></fieldset>
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                  </div>
                </div>
                <pre><div><div class="h5">_______________________________________________
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</pre>
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--------------080505010109040507060000--

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[email-masked]

--===============6994547932651791627==--

---

From: Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 18:16:05 -0400

Michael,

Do you think the link you added helps from an electrical point of view, 
or from motion/vibration point of view?  I'm thinking the latter - less 
bounce, less movement across the wire wound resistor - less motion of 
the gauge needle.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 08/26/2015 07:27 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> gauge in my 100 is as steady as a rock and a very accurate indicator of
> the tank contents.
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]
>

[email-masked]

---

From: Michael <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2015 18:23:12 -0400

--===============4221464394071915193==
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No Bob it is an electrical solution.
All the little wire does is provide a solid electrical path between the flo=
at arm and the body which is part of the circuit to the gauge.
It turns out that the "jiggling" of the needle is caused by the circuit mak=
ing and breaking at the arm pivot probably because of a build up of fuel "v=
arnish" on the bearing surfaces.
I intend to do a blog post with a video...
When I can find the time.

Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Haskell" <[email-masked]>
Sent: =E2=80=8E26/=E2=80=8E08/=E2=80=8E2015 6:16 p.m.
To: "Michael Salter" <[email-masked]>; "[email-masked]" <h=
[email-masked]>

Michael,

Do you think the link you added helps from an electrical point of view,=20
or from motion/vibration point of view?  I'm thinking the latter - less=20
bounce, less movement across the wire wound resistor - less motion of=20
the gauge needle.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar

On 08/26/2015 07:27 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>     of shops. The sender is a restored original. Afterwards, it would sti=
ll
>     stick on full, then when over half a tank was used it would drop to 1=
/2,
>     the car and calibrated it on the bench. You will need to approximate =
the
>     supplied by the sending unit. Over the years the coils have tilted an=
d
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaske=
[email-masked]

--_353FA847-3B5C-4C77-BC07-C89BC467737E_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=
=3Dutf-8"></head><body><div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; =
font-size: 11pt;">No Bob it is an electrical solution.<br>All the little wi=
re does is provide a solid electrical path between the float arm and the bo=
dy which is part of the circuit to the gauge.<br>It turns out that the "jig=
gling" of the needle is caused by the circuit making and breaking at the ar=
m pivot probably because of a build up of fuel "varnish" on the bearing sur=
faces.<br>I intend to do a blog post with a video...<br>When I can find the=
 time.<br><br>Michael S<br>BN1 #174</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><hr><span s=
tyle=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold=
;">From: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: =
11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Bob Haskell</a></span><br=
><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weig=
ht: bold;">Sent: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; fon=
t-size: 11pt;">=E2=80=8E26/=E2=80=8E08/=E2=80=8E2015 6:16 p.m.</span><br><s=
pan style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight:=
 bold;">To: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 11pt;"><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">Michael Salter</a>; <a=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a></span><b=
r><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-wei=
ght: bold;">Subject: </span><span style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif;=
 font-size: 11pt;">Re: [Healeys] Gas Gauge</span><br><br></div>Michael,<br>=
<br>Do you think the link you added helps from an electrical point of view,=
 <br>or from motion/vibration point of view?&nbsp; I'm thinking the latter =
- less <br>bounce, less movement across the wire wound resistor - less moti=
on of <br>the gauge needle.<br><br>Cheers,<br><br>Bob Haskell<br>AHCA 3000 =
Mk I registrar<br>http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php<br><br>On 08/26=
/2015 07:27 AM, Michael Salter wrote:<br>&gt; Actually a Healey fuel gauge =
can be made to work very accurately. The<br>&gt; gauge in my 100 is as stea=
dy as a rock and a very accurate indicator of<br>&gt; the tank contents.<br=
>&gt; The only change I made was to add a tiny connecting link between the<=
br>&gt; float arm and the body of the gauge sender as in the attached pic.<=
br>&gt; Prior to doing this I had no idea that a gauge of this type could w=
ork<br>&gt; so well.<br>&gt;<br>&gt; Michael S<br>&gt; BN1 #174<br>&gt;<br>=
&gt; On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 1:18 AM, John Spaur &lt;[email-masked]=
<br>&gt; &lt;mailto:[email-masked]&gt;&gt; wrote:<br>&gt;<br>&gt;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Yes! Will you ever be able to adjust it so it works =
even remotely<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; close to<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp; accurate? I don't think so. There are many posts covering issue=
s<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; with the<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
fuel gauge and tank unit. My gauge and sender were "calibrated" by a<br>&gt=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; couple<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; of shops. =
The sender is a restored original. Afterwards, it would still<br>&gt;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; stick on full, then when over half a tank was used it wo=
uld drop to 1/2,<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; then 1/4 and stop.<br>&gt;=
<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I finally calibrated my gauge, with a litt=
le more success than the<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; professionals, usi=
ng the calibration unit in this link:<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; http:=
//mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm BTW, I pulled the<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp; sender out of<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; the car and ca=
librated it on the bench. You will need to approximate the<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp; high and low limits which are determined by the depth of th=
e petrol<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; tank.<br>&gt;<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp; Be warned, it still is almost fruitless. I believe the problem =
is<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; caused by<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
; how the fuel gauge T and B coils line up with the armature. The fuel<br>&=
gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; gauge<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; needle is=
 connected to the armature and swings based on the magnetic<br>&gt;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; current<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; supplied by the se=
nding unit. Over the years the coils have tilted and<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp; cannot be properly aligned with the armature when the nut is<br>&=
gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; tightened. This<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
 throws off the adjustment.<br>&gt;<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Let me =
know how it goes.<br>&gt;<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Regards,<br>&gt;<=
br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; John Spaur<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
'62 BT7<br>&gt;<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ___________________________=
____________________<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Support Team.Net http:=
//www.team.net/donate.html<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Suggested annual=
 donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Archive: http://www.=
team.net/archive<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Forums: http://www.team.ne=
t/forums<br>&gt;<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; [email-masked] &lt=
;mailto:[email-masked]&gt;<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; http://a=
utox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>&gt;<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp; Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; http://autox.team.n=
et/mailman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt;<br>&gt;<br>&gt;<=
br>&gt;<br>&gt; --<br>&gt; /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got a=
n electrical problem./<br>&gt;<br>&gt;<br>&gt;<br>&gt; ____________________=
___________________________<br>&gt; Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/do=
nate.html<br>&gt; Suggested annual donation&nbsp; $12.75<br>&gt; Archive: h=
ttp://www.team.net/archive<br>&gt; Forums: http://www.team.net/forums<br>&g=
t;<br>&gt; [email-masked]<br>&gt; http://autox.team.net/mailman/lis=
tinfo/healeys<br>&gt;<br>&gt; Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mai=
lman/options/healeys/[email-masked]<br>&gt;<br></body></html>=

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[email-masked]

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---

From: "J. Armour" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2015 10:11:27 +1000

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--===============2921681189281422630==
	boundary="B_3523515090_39122"

> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

--B_3523515090_39122
	charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Barry Campbell a Sydney AHOC member has been using and recommending this
solution successfully for some years. Quite a few owners have taken the mod.
Joe

From:  Healeys <[email-masked]> on behalf of Michael
<[email-masked]>
Date:  Thursday, 27 August 2015 8:23 AM
To:  Bob Haskell <[email-masked]>, "[email-masked]"
<[email-masked]>
Subject:  Re: [Healeys] Gas Gauge

No Bob it is an electrical solution.
All the little wire does is provide a solid electrical path between the
float arm and the body which is part of the circuit to the gauge.
It turns out that the "jiggling" of the needle is caused by the circuit
making and breaking at the arm pivot probably because of a build up of fuel
"varnish" on the bearing surfaces.
I intend to do a blog post with a video...
When I can find the time.

Michael S
BN1 #174

--B_3523515090_39122
	charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: s=
pace; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size:=
 14px; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; "><div>Barry Campbell a Sydney AHOC=
 member has been using and recommending this solution successfully for some =
years. Quite a few owners have taken the mod.</div><div>Joe</div><div><br></=
div><span id=3D"OLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION"><div style=3D"font-family:Calibri; font-si=
ze:11pt; text-align:left; color:black; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LE=
FT: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in;=
 BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-TOP: 3pt"=
><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">From: </span> Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:he=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; on beha=
lf of Michael &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">michael.salter@g=
mail.com</a>&gt;<br><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">Date: </span> Thursday, 2=
7 August 2015 8:23 AM<br><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">To: </span> Bob Hask=
ell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>=
&gt;, "<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>" &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br=
><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">Subject: </span> Re: [Healeys] Gas Gauge<br>=
</div><div><br></div><div><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html=
; charset=3Dutf-8"><div><div><div style=3D"font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font=
-size: 11pt;">No Bob it is an electrical solution.<br>All the little wire do=
es is provide a solid electrical path between the float arm and the body whi=
ch is part of the circuit to the gauge.<br>It turns out that the "jiggling" =
of the needle is caused by the circuit making and breaking at the arm pivot =
probably because of a build up of fuel "varnish" on the bearing surfaces.<br=
>I intend to do a blog post with a video...<br>When I can find the time.<br>=
<br>Michael S<br>BN1 #174</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div></div></div></=
span></body></html>

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[email-masked]

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