From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 03:47:09 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Michael'" <michael.salter@gmail.com>, "'Stephen Hutchings'"
 <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
References: <2F25D892-549D-454A-B99D-2127FEE1D614@rogers.com>
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Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2014 10:49:25 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac/bTA9vFEOXHxEjQtujOh/7G483XgCD0k8A
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] heater valve
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you all for your tips re. the heater, its hoses etcetc. All very
helpful, as ever.
Am in N.Ireland right now so can't access the Healey which, in disgrace, is
sulking in the workshop in England.
But, I can confirm that the two heater hoses are indeed supposed to be the
same size; I spoke to the supplier just now. He immediately
confessed.......they had a batch of sub-sized hoses which got onto their
shelves and a few of them did make it out to customers. (I'd only bought
mine as a portable emergency spare but lucky that I didn't need it when I
was half way up some French Alpine pass??)
The bolt question....well, I used a spanner to remove the first one and got
half way through removing the second before I ran out of time. So they are
hexes.I don't have them here, but I think that they are slotted hexes.
Certainly shown thus in my parts manual.
Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 07:49:11 2014
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Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2014 06:51:19 -0700
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Interesting that Simon says the screws were hex heads, or slotted hex heads. I don't know, but maybe by the time the BJ8 rolled around, they were using round slotted heads.
I've just looked at my archive before and after photos, and mine were definitely round slotted screws...unfortunately!

Stephen BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 09:31:23 2014
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From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2014 08:30:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Classic & Sports Cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The October issue has a cover and great feature article on AH bWhy this is
still Britainbs finest sporting dynastyb ...
rg
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 11:10:37 2014
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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Stephen Hutchings" <s.hutchings@rogers.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1412171479.60381.YahooMailNeo@web122302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2014 10:13:02 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All the heater valves on the 6 cylinder cars used a slotted cheese head 
screw.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: Stephen Hutchings
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2014 6:51 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater valve

Interesting that Simon says the screws were hex heads, or slotted hex heads. 
I don't know, but maybe by the time the BJ8 rolled around, they were using 
round slotted heads.
I've just looked at my archive before and after photos, and mine were 
definitely round slotted screws...unfortunately!

Stephen BJ8
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 11:20:23 2014
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From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1412171479.60381.YahooMailNeo@web122302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
 <D889E8B6D068419CA94BB28591B8B0F8@DavidNockHP>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2014 10:23:07 -0700
Thread-Index: AQJISORFPR3owCDa3MdwXhWlO3xOiQFSS88xmyAUUxA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The hex head screws are most likely new replacements.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 11:55:56 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'John Spaur'" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1412171479.60381.YahooMailNeo@web122302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
 <D889E8B6D068419CA94BB28591B8B0F8@DavidNockHP>
 <002701cfdd9c$5f49ea30$1dddbe90$@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2014 18:58:33 +0100
Thread-Index: AQJISORFPR3owCDa3MdwXhWlO3xOiQFSS88xmyAUUxCAAAnHAA==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater valve
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe, but look at the parts manual. I reckon they're slotted hexes in the
picture. Damn difficult to get at anyhow!
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Spaur
Sent: 01 October 2014 18:23
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater valve

The hex head screws are most likely new replacements.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 12:16:08 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Roger Grace'" <roggrace@telus.net>, "'Healey List'"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6E29B74EFCD44C0BAE2B5C6B723D393A@WINDOWST93OFP9>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2014 19:17:08 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac/djTljRZfukXtJSZCorp6/CSqiAwAFG2Ag
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Classic & Sports Cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes and on page 230 an ad for a "Historically Important Austin Healey 100"
NWD 34. 30th June 1953.......35th RHD car. Etcetc.Serious enquiries, offers
invited.
Plus plenty of other Healeys of course. Mostly POA which means prices are
getting silly?
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger
Grace
Sent: 01 October 2014 16:31
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Classic & Sports Cars

The October issue has a cover and great feature article on AH bWhy this is
still Britainbs finest sporting dynastyb ...
rg
$12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 14:01:34 2014
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Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2014 16:01:11 -0400
From: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:31.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/31.1.2
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.2933.1412091120.2012.healeys@autox.team.net>
 s=q20140121; t=1412193673;
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 zNv+d0gcNKohQ==
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Healey Content - Dad's Fire Engine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob Spidell wrote:
> Some of you may recall I've mentioned my father's restoration of an old fire engine.  The local paper did an article on it:
> http://www.modbee.com/2014/09/29/3565514/jeff-jardine-modesto-man-rekindles.html

Nice.  If he's looking for another challenge, I like what the Blastolene 
people did with an old fire engine to create Big Bertha. I like the 
looks, and then you put a person in the driver's seat for scale and ... Wow!

http://blastoland.com/blastoland/BIG_BERTHA.html

-- 
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  1 19:26:18 2014
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From: jim lesher <lesherj@outlook.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2014 21:28:40 -0400
 FILETIME=[327ADFC0:01CFDDE0]
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone need anything for a 100-Six or early 3000?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I will be going to Hershey next week and if you need anything - fenders,
doors, shrouds, mufflers, new AMCO top, heater unit, misc bits and literature
-  owners handbooks, service manuals or parts books.
just let me know, I might have what you are looking for to complete a project

jim
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  2 04:32:33 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'jim lesher'" <lesherj@outlook.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY169-W10571A556F0FE2D6A6A7959B3B90@phx.gbl>
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2014 20:32:58 +1000
Thread-Index: AQDn4M5Dad800FJGHTs8+Xc08U1OLJ3sli6A
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anyone need anything for a 100-Six or early 3000?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello

I have a friend here in Australia who has been looking for a set of
hood-bows for his 3000 Mk1 BT7 for some time without success. Any assistance
would be greatly appreciated.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jim
lesher
Sent: Thursday, 2 October 2014 11:29 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone need anything for a 100-Six or early 3000?

I will be going to Hershey next week and if you need anything - fenders,
doors, shrouds, mufflers, new AMCO top, heater unit, misc bits and
literature
-  owners handbooks, service manuals or parts books.
just let me know, I might have what you are looking for to complete a
project

jim
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  2 10:02:45 2014
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From: "David Nock" <healeydoc@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, "'jim lesher'"
 <lesherj@outlook.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <BAY169-W10571A556F0FE2D6A6A7959B3B90@phx.gbl>
 <00bc01cfde2c$3d124ad0$b736e070$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2014 09:03:27 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anyone need anything for a 100-Six or early 3000?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For some reason the BT7 top frames are very hard to find good used ones. 
They are available new and fit well.




David Nock
healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2014 3:32 AM
To: 'jim lesher' ; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anyone need anything for a 100-Six or early 3000?

Hello

I have a friend here in Australia who has been looking for a set of
hood-bows for his 3000 Mk1 BT7 for some time without success. Any assistance
would be greatly appreciated.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jim
lesher
Sent: Thursday, 2 October 2014 11:29 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Anyone need anything for a 100-Six or early 3000?

I will be going to Hershey next week and if you need anything - fenders,
doors, shrouds, mufflers, new AMCO top, heater unit, misc bits and
literature
-  owners handbooks, service manuals or parts books.
just let me know, I might have what you are looking for to complete a
project

jim
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  2 16:50:55 2014
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From: "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
thread-topic: Paint code for colorado red
thread-index: Ac/ek5j6hR2PR6yDR9yAiDTpQCeaHA==
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2014 17:53:28 -0500
To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Paint code for colorado red
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am restoring my '59 100-6 and I will have the painter do a two stage
base/clear coat. I would like to know if anyone has the modern day paint code
for PPG for colorado red. The car has white coves and I plan to use old
English white which has the code ARGWT3. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  2 23:42:17 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2014 15:44:45 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac/ezLrZCkG+IfdeQdSkrJiSEpizVQ==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] Antipodean Racing Austin-Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

If you're interested in a competition Austin-Healey in the antipodes you
might like to have a look at the recent edition in this:-

 

http://bmcexperience.com.au/home.html

 

Yes I do have a connection as not only did I write it, but I was also paid
cash money for it.

 

As a little bonus there is even a photo of not only the owner (in flat hat)
and but me as well driving it.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  3 02:26:29 2014
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From: "Bluehealey" <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: "'Chris Scholz'" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>, "'AustinHealey
 List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <0EBD81A4-17D4-47F0-92F7-82600E3D9B1D@visioncenterpc.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2014 09:28:54 +0100
Thread-Index: AQKOojzcqeTNXgY3TWgtFALxGlVTppqggqvQ
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint code for colorado red
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Chris.
It will be ARG.RD2.
I attach a copy of the PPG recipe for DN BC Solid which unfortunately the
list will strip.
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (______\__1957-BN4__1959-AN5__/______)
                       (_____BlueHealey.com______)


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris
Scholz
Sent: 02 October 2014 23:53
To: AustinHealey List
Subject: [Healeys] Paint code for colorado red

I am restoring my '59 100-6 and I will have the painter do a two stage
base/clear coat. I would like to know if anyone has the modern day paint
code for PPG for colorado red. The car has white coves and I plan to use old
English white which has the code ARGWT3. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of PPGColorado.jpg]
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct  3 02:36:38 2014
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 for <multiple recipients> (version=TLSv1 cipher=ECDHE-RSA-AES128-SHA
 bits=128/128); Fri, 03 Oct 2014 01:39:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Bluehealey" <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: "'Chris Scholz'" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>, "'AustinHealey
 List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <0EBD81A4-17D4-47F0-92F7-82600E3D9B1D@visioncenterpc.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2014 09:39:15 +0100
Thread-Index: AQKOojzcqeTNXgY3TWgtFALxGlVTppqggqvQ
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint code for colorado red
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Team.
I've poked the image onto my website at:
http://www.bluehealey.com/PPGColorado.jpg

Enjoy.


Hi Chris.
It will be ARG.RD2.
I attach a copy of the PPG recipe for DN BC Solid which unfortunately the
list will strip.
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (______\__1957-BN4__1959-AN5__/______)
                       (_____BlueHealey.com______)


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris
Scholz
Sent: 02 October 2014 23:53
To: AustinHealey List
Subject: [Healeys] Paint code for colorado red

I am restoring my '59 100-6 and I will have the painter do a two stage
base/clear coat. I would like to know if anyone has the modern day paint
code for PPG for colorado red. The car has white coves and I plan to use old
English white which has the code ARGWT3. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of PPGColorado.jpg]
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct  5 13:44:28 2014
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Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2014 15:41:38 -0400
From: brad Holden <bradh904@gmail.com>
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Rich Crysler's son
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Could someone please advise how to get in touch with Rich Chrysler's son? I
know he is doing  interior work and I would like to get in touch with him.
Many thanks.

Brad Holden
67 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct  5 14:00:04 2014
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From: Randy Hicks <healey100m@gmail.com>
References: <CAHjD0-Ra0UmvctiGA59tHTi1SGDbfXyWn2KhKAiWGy4DR6hPrw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2014 16:02:44 -0400
To: "bradh904@gmail.com" <bradh904@gmail.com>
Cc: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rich Crysler's son
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Geoff's telephone number is; 250-813-2090.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct  5 14:45:01 2014
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To: <bradh904@gmail.com>, "Healeys@autox.team.net"
  <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2014 16:47:26 -0400
References: <CAHjD0-Ra0UmvctiGA59tHTi1SGDbfXyWn2KhKAiWGy4DR6hPrw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rich Crysler's son
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And his email is good2bgca@yahoo.ca
Highly recommended.

Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "brad Holden" <bradh904@gmail.com>
Sent: b10/b5/b2014 3:47 PM
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Rich Crysler's son

Could someone please advise how to get in touch with Rich Chrysler's son? I
know he is doing  interior work and I would like to get in touch with him.
Many thanks.

Brad Holden
67 BJ8
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct  5 21:02:27 2014
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Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2014 20:00:23 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Classics Monthly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Stopped at the local Barnes & Noble to grab the Classics and Sports and/or the Hemmings mags featuring Healeys.  Struck 
out on those two--the C&S is still the Sep. edition!--but spotted a mag called Classics Monthly I'd never heard of.  
They have an article 'Big Healey at 50' with photos of a 100 and a BJ8 on the cover. Haven't read the article yet, 
thought I'd just pass the info on.

Healeys are hot Hot HOT right now.


Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  6 00:03:01 2014
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Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2014 22:57:41 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hours in London
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Howdy,
I just booked a flight to Israel for June/July 2015. I have a 10 hour
layover at Heathrow. I figure that gives me 4-5 hours to visit London. My
wife and I were disappointed with the fish and chips we found on our last
visit. Can someone recommend a propper chipper? We will then plan out visit
around that.   I'm also up for a quick pint if anyone wants to join us.
Cheers.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  6 00:33:04 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2014 23:32:01 -0700
References: <zi5z1o00j0NyJgq01i61R2>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 hours in London
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I spent most of last year in Windsor (near London).

There a fish/chip shops everywhere. Different styles for different tastes.

Time Out is the local's resource for most everything:
http://www.timeout.com/london/restaurants/londons-best-fish-and-chip-restaura
nts

But if you know you want high quality (the cheap stuff is great once you get
used to it) Harrod's food hall has the best everything!

Harrod's will put you in a great area of town. Kensington my a be a bit busy
for a big shopping street but you'll be real close to Chelsea which has King's
road.



On Oct 5, 2014, at 10:57 PM, I Erbs wrote:

> Howdy,
> I just booked a flight to Israel for June/July 2015. I have a 10 hour
> layover at Heathrow. I figure that gives me 4-5 hours to visit London. My
> wife and I were disappointed with the fish and chips we found on our last
> visit. Can someone recommend a propper chipper? We will then plan out visit
> around that.   I'm also up for a quick pint if anyone wants to join us.
> Cheers.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  6 01:18:26 2014
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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2014 09:20:25 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <543205C7.50400@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Classics Monthly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Classic Monthly is one of the nicest classic car magazines around, 
together with Practical Classics. may be not as glossy and not such 
splendid photography as in Classic and Sports Cars and the like but much 
more practical and informative.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Bob Spidell schreef op 6-10-2014 5:00:
> Stopped at the local Barnes & Noble to grab the Classics and Sports 
> and/or the Hemmings mags featuring Healeys.  Struck out on those 
> two--the C&S is still the Sep. edition!--but spotted a mag called 
> Classics Monthly I'd never heard of.  They have an article 'Big Healey 
> at 50' with photos of a 100 and a BJ8 on the cover. Haven't read the 
> article yet, thought I'd just pass the info on.
>
> Healeys are hot Hot HOT right now.
>
>
> Bob
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  6 03:39:57 2014
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Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2014 10:42:39 +0100
From: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
Organization: Summa Ventures Ltd
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To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <zi5z1o00j0NyJgq01i61R2>
 <22A103E5-2A77-40D5-92B5-8EC16FC4E260@cox.net>
Cc: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 hours in London
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On 06/10/2014 07:32, Wilko2 wrote:
> I spent most of last year in Windsor (near London).
> 
> There a fish/chip shops everywhere. Different styles for different tastes.
> 
> Time Out is the local's resource for most everything:
> http://www.timeout.com/london/restaurants/londons-best-fish-and-chip-restaura
> nts
> 
> But if you know you want high quality (the cheap stuff is great once you get
> used to it) Harrod's food hall has the best everything!
> 


do NOT touch Harrods for Fish and Chips. Kensington doesn't do F&C in any real
way! There are one or two good chippies in Fulham and Chelsea (though not on the
main roads) and around Chelsea football ground itself. Most good chippies fry in
the evenings only which will probably clash with your schedule.

If you can find one SeaFare is a good chain, but I don't know whether there is
one around Heathrow. You could try Ealing or Uxbridge, neither of which are
tourist areas.

Peter

-- 

===========================================================
Dr Peter Dzwig				
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  6 05:24:29 2014
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To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Classics Monthly
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Noticed when I got home it was the August edition.

Bob


On 10/6/2014 12:20 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> Classic Monthly is one of the nicest classic car magazines around, together with Practical Classics. may be not as 
> glossy and not such splendid photography as in Classic and Sports Cars and the like but much more practical and 
> informative.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> Bob Spidell schreef op 6-10-2014 5:00:
>> Stopped at the local Barnes & Noble to grab the Classics and Sports and/or the Hemmings mags featuring Healeys.  
>> Struck out on those two--the C&S is still the Sep. edition!--but spotted a mag called Classics Monthly I'd never 
>> heard of.  They have an article 'Big Healey at 50' with photos of a 100 and a BJ8 on the cover. Haven't read the 
>> article yet, thought I'd just pass the info on.
>>
>> Healeys are hot Hot HOT right now.
>>
>>
>> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  6 09:06:32 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2014 08:01:41 -0700
Cc: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <zi5z1o00j0NyJgq01i61R2>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 hours in London
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Well, I was just putting you into "London". That timeout list is pretty much
spot on. They can all vary depending on how much grease you want. For many,
that grease is key. Harrod's is too expensive.

Where ever you go, ask/wait for a fresh batch of chips.

Outer areas that are still close enough to allow a bit of sightseeing are
Fulham and a bit further west like Hammersmith where you'll find lots of
places, lots of chains. In that area is also a serious classic car dealer with
a very high end showroom and "museum": http://www.landmarkcars.co.uk/





On Oct 6, 2014, at 2:42 AM, Peter Dzwig wrote:

> On 06/10/2014 07:32, Wilko2 wrote:
>> I spent most of last year in Windsor (near London).
>>
>> There a fish/chip shops everywhere. Different styles for different tastes.
>>
>> Time Out is the local's resource for most everything:
>>
http://www.timeout.com/london/restaurants/londons-best-fish-and-chip-restaura
>> nts
>>
>> But if you know you want high quality (the cheap stuff is great once you
get
>> used to it) Harrod's food hall has the best everything!
>>
>
>
> do NOT touch Harrods for Fish and Chips. Kensington doesn't do F&C in any
real
> way! There are one or two good chippies in Fulham and Chelsea (though not on
the
> main roads) and around Chelsea football ground itself. Most good chippies
fry in
> the evenings only which will probably clash with your schedule.
>
> If you can find one SeaFare is a good chain, but I don't know whether there
is
> one around Heathrow. You could try Ealing or Uxbridge, neither of which are
> tourist areas.
>
> Peter
>
> --
>
> ===========================================================
> Dr Peter Dzwig
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  6 10:13:37 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 hours in London
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Wilko2 schreef op 6-10-2014 17:01:
> Where ever you go, ask/wait for a fresh batch of chips
Traditionally it should be soggy chips and vinegar in yesterdays paper, 
chaps.

Kees Oudesluijs
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  6 11:22:36 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2014 10:20:21 -0700
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 hours in London
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Kees,
 I agree.
I guess I did not mean to start a "best oil" debate on Fish and Chips. It
is interesting to see folks opinions though. I have begun a internet search
on best places to eat Fish and Chips. Some overlap between sites and list
suggestions. we will now look for other things to do in the areas around
the food.
Cheers
Please keep suggestions coming. You can email off list. This is really
interesting to me.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Mon, Oct 6, 2014 at 9:16 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Wilko2 schreef op 6-10-2014 17:01:
>
>> Where ever you go, ask/wait for a fresh batch of chips
>>
> Traditionally it should be soggy chips and vinegar in yesterdays paper,
> chaps.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  6 11:43:53 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2014 10:46:13 -0700
References: <22A103E5-2A77-40D5-92B5-8EC16FC4E260@cox.net>
 <FD79044E-59A9-42C5-A45C-12B60FAB5DD0@cox.net>
 <5432C048.2080500@chello.nl> <ztRe1o0200NyJgq01tRgP3>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 hours in London
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What didn't you like about what you got? what would you think of as "good"
fish and chips?

Maybe just jam around and try a bunch? if it's crappy, just put 'em down and
move on!

The east end will have a bunch.

In Windsor there was a Neptune's (chain) real close to our flat. Some times it
was great, some times not so much. We'd get chicken there, or just chips.

On Oct 6, 2014, at 10:20 AM, I Erbs wrote:

> Kees,
> I agree.
> I guess I did not mean to start a "best oil" debate on Fish and Chips. It
> is interesting to see folks opinions though. I have begun a internet search
> on best places to eat Fish and Chips. Some overlap between sites and list
> suggestions. we will now look for other things to do in the areas around
> the food.
> Cheers
> Please keep suggestions coming. You can email off list. This is really
> interesting to me.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>   _______                                  _______
>     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>         (_________________________)
>
> On Mon, Oct 6, 2014 at 9:16 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
>> Wilko2 schreef op 6-10-2014 17:01:
>>
>>> Where ever you go, ask/wait for a fresh batch of chips
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct  6 18:56:36 2014
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From: "Mike Garvey" <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>,	"'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYqhL-Ogp+1NCugDEthAdgFOTjv32SkGD2qvLPjJyncAUw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2014 20:55:25 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac/hK568fOmFN8w1RXmHZM2skCGBhwAnX5cQ
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 hours in London
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(Strong) recommendation that you visit Kew Gardens (if Victorian
gardens/greenhouses are your cup o' tea); there is a fish and chips pub
nearby that is very good.
Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2014 1:58 AM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] 4 hours in London

Howdy,
I just booked a flight to Israel for June/July 2015. I have a 10 hour
layover at Heathrow. I figure that gives me 4-5 hours to visit London. My
wife and I were disappointed with the fish and chips we found on our last
visit. Can someone recommend a propper chipper? We will then plan out visit
around that.   I'm also up for a quick pint if anyone wants to join us.
Cheers.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/r3m1g4@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct  7 02:00:53 2014
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 <00a901cfe1c9$61e7c8d0$25b75a70$@net>
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2014 09:03:24 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 4 hours in London
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just remember that getting into, out of and around London can take much
longer than you think. The Heathrow Express is the best option for getting
in and out.

Derek

On Tue, Oct 7, 2014 at 1:55 AM, Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net> wrote:

> (Strong) recommendation that you visit Kew Gardens (if Victorian
> gardens/greenhouses are your cup o' tea); there is a fish and chips pub
> nearby that is very good.
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
> Sent: Monday, October 06, 2014 1:58 AM
> To: Ahealey help
> Subject: [Healeys] 4 hours in London
>
> Howdy,
> I just booked a flight to Israel for June/July 2015. I have a 10 hour
> layover at Heathrow. I figure that gives me 4-5 hours to visit London. My
> wife and I were disappointed with the fish and chips we found on our last
> visit. Can someone recommend a propper chipper? We will then plan out visit
> around that.   I'm also up for a quick pint if anyone wants to join us.
> Cheers.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/r3m1g4@verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct  7 13:06:15 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2014 12:08:23 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] car and driver online
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?hl=en&shva=1#inbox/148ebff8e92979db
I can't view this at work, but it shows a pretty Healey on the cover

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct  7 15:35:22 2014
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 <000001cfe274$cc51a460$64f4ed20$@com.au>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2014 14:32:40 -0700
To: John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au>, Ahealey help
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] car and driver online
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry, The filters at work are causing issues. will resend tonight from home

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Tue, Oct 7, 2014 at 2:22 PM, John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au> wrote:

> Hi Ira
> Just got this email. Very strange!
> I click on the link shown and it goes straight to a gmail account I have
> for
> a veteran race club of which I am secretary
> ?????
> Cheers
> John Rowe.
> Qld Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
> Sent: Wednesday, 8 October 2014 5:08 AM
> To: Ahealey help
> Subject: [Healeys] car and driver online
>
> https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?hl=en&shva=1#inbox/148ebff8e92979db
> I can't view this at work, but it shows a pretty Healey on the cover
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  8 04:41:10 2014
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From: Mark Goodman <mkgoodman@att.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 06:39:17 -0400
References: <1432a.99a.148b1fcdbb1.Webtop.0@cox.net>
To: "Healeys@Autox. Team. Net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For anyone looking for a 100-6.  I have no idea about the condition.


>
http://www.auctionsolutionsinc.com/auction/239897/meineke-personal-real-prope
rty-living-estate-auction/
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  8 19:33:36 2014
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From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 18:35:38 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/jYVMGmv6wcrHBS0GZtheeQTf0Cg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust popping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Now that my pipes are well sealed to the muffler most of the annoying
popping sound is gone.

 

Now I notice a slight popping when I decelerate. What would cause that? Does
it indicate the carbs might be set a little rich?

 

John Spaur

'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  8 19:34:19 2014
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From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 18:35:38 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/jYNzFOnBsiCSWQ9+G7UYu/omqPw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Muffler seal - results
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to everyone that responded about what to use to seal the pipes
attaching to each side of the muffler. I used Permatex Muffler and Tail Pipe
Sealer. It is made from sodium silicate. I think Hults is the same product
but they list the ingredients differently. It dries very hard but is very
brittle. I had to redo one joint and I was worried about how difficult it
would be to separate the pipes but it was not hard at all. However, it dries
quickly so you don't have a lot of working time when assembling the parts.
The directions say to wet the parts with water. Use water sparingly. Also,
clean the parts before it dries because it is hard to remove.

John Spaur
San Jose  
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct  8 20:53:42 2014
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References: <007a01cfe361$554c9990$ffe5ccb0$@sbcglobal.net>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2014 19:55:49 -0700
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust popping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

could be a bit to much advance on the timing

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Wed, Oct 8, 2014 at 6:35 PM, John Spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Now that my pipes are well sealed to the muffler most of the annoying
> popping sound is gone.
>
>
>
> Now I notice a slight popping when I decelerate. What would cause that?
> Does
> it indicate the carbs might be set a little rich?
>
>
>
> John Spaur
>
> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  9 01:25:15 2014
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Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2014 09:27:49 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <007a01cfe361$554c9990$ffe5ccb0$@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust popping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It indicates it is spot on. If you drive in th mountains it is a 
glorious sound. I love it.
Kees Oudesluijs


John Spaur schreef op 9-10-2014 3:35:
> Now that my pipes are well sealed to the muffler most of the annoying
> popping sound is gone.
>
>   
>
> Now I notice a slight popping when I decelerate. What would cause that? Does
> it indicate the carbs might be set a little rich?
>
>   
>
> John Spaur
>
> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4765 / Virusdatabase: 4037/8350 - datum van uitgifte: 10/08/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  9 08:09:45 2014
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Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 10:07:32 -0400
From: Burt Weiner <bighealey63@gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] British cars in Wilmington NC
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All,

My wife and I have finally made the move from Massachusetts to Supply NC.
Back when I was still on Comcast, I had asked about repair shops, clubs,
etc. and someone mentioned a British car club in Wilmington NC that got
together maybe monthly (?).  Now I'm an ATMC customer without any of my
archived messages so forgive the re-ask.

By the way, I followed the advice of several of you that led me to Hendrix
Wire Wheel - a good choice!

Cheers

Burt
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  9 08:23:36 2014
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From: "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
thread-topic: 100-6 bn4 restoration
thread-index: Ac/jzDi8SbHidLMbSVWBluZUakFjRA==
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 09:21:22 -0500
To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 bn4 restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Silly question- I am taking apart the 100-6 and have a question about the
plywood interior side panel (kick panel?) next to the rear seats. It appears
to be glued to the door frame. I see no bolts or fasteners. Is this correct
and how do you remove it without damaging the panel?

Second, I have many little screws that are Phillips head, holding the metal
trim pieces in the door opening. These screws were stripped by the last owner.
I plan on using a tiny drill bit to drill a small hole in each and then try to
use an EZ out on them. Any other ideas?  Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  9 09:39:14 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 08:37:29 -0700
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Cc: AustinHealey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 bn4 restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The wood pieces are glued to a thicker strip of wood,and then wrapped in
vinyl, that is in turn screwed to the striker panel. You may need to remove
the furflex and weather stripping to see the screw heads on the flange.
They are wood screws with phillips heads. I can email you photos of the
screw locations if you want them?

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Thu, Oct 9, 2014 at 7:21 AM, Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
wrote:

> Silly question- I am taking apart the 100-6 and have a question about the
> plywood interior side panel (kick panel?) next to the rear seats. It
> appears
> to be glued to the door frame. I see no bolts or fasteners. Is this correct
> and how do you remove it without damaging the panel?
>
> Second, I have many little screws that are Phillips head, holding the metal
> trim pieces in the door opening. These screws were stripped by the last
> owner.
> I plan on using a tiny drill bit to drill a small hole in each and then
> try to
> use an EZ out on them. Any other ideas?  Thanks.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Chris Scholz'" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>, "'AustinHealey
 List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <60F5D3A4-F1ED-445E-9360-263AE4D93BE9@visioncenterpc.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 11:34:29 -0700
Thread-Index: AQHm26J9sJe3LVDfnvUVsrI0XOibYpv6JCCg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100-6 bn4 restoration
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If they don't come out drill out the head or try and break them off. You can
use a vice grip to turn them out or grind them down. I presume you will be
installing new cover plates which need to be drilled for the screw and you
can drill a new hole in the chassis. Source new screws from a local fastener
supplier (Olander Company if there is one in our town
http://www.olander.com/). I was not happy with the Moss screws because the
head stripped easily. Be sure to find the correct sized screw driver (00 I
think) because it will be much easier.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  9 13:42:30 2014
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From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'Austin Healey'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAG22=eeOkPnrUt062ciiB-f6+w8M7nd=RJhw-v3BZGkXwJH7gw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 15:42:43 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] British cars in Wilmington NC
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, Burt, and welcome to the South!
My wife and I had lunch in Supply last week on our way to Myrtle Beach in
TARHEELY for BritFest.

The Wilmington club is the British Motor Club of The Cape Fear
(http://www.bmccf.org/).  Come to their annual car show "Brits at the Beach"
at the park in Wrightsville Beach this Saturday.  Look for my yellow/black
BJ8 so we can meet in person.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Burt
Weiner
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2014 10:08 AM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] British cars in Wilmington NC

All,

My wife and I have finally made the move from Massachusetts to Supply NC.
Back when I was still on Comcast, I had asked about repair shops, clubs,
etc. and someone mentioned a British car club in Wilmington NC that got
together maybe monthly (?).  Now I'm an ATMC customer without any of my
archived messages so forgive the re-ask.

By the way, I followed the advice of several of you that led me to Hendrix
Wire Wheel - a good choice!

Cheers

Burt
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  9 16:13:48 2014
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Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2014 15:06:40 -0700
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>, 'Austin Healey'
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] British cars in Wilmington NC
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Best move you made was to leave Taxachusetts to almost anywhere.  I left in 1970 and only visit every 10 years or so.  No I live in The people's Democratic Republic of Kalifornia and can't wait to retire in two and a half years so I can move to Nevada or Arizona.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5



On Thursday, October 9, 2014 12:42 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:
 

>
>
>Hi, Burt, and welcome to the South!
>My wife and I had lunch in Supply last week on our way to Myrtle Beach in
>TARHEELY for BritFest.
>
>The Wilmington club is the British Motor Club of The Cape Fear
>(http://www.bmccf.org/).  Come to their annual car show "Brits at the Beach"
>at the park in Wrightsville Beach this Saturday.  Look for my yellow/black
>BJ8 so we can meet in person.
>
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>AHCA Delegate at Large
>Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Burt
>Weiner
>Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2014 10:08 AM
>To: Austin Healey
>Subject: [Healeys] British cars in Wilmington NC
>
>All,
>
>My wife and I have finally made the move from Massachusetts to Supply NC.
>Back when I was still on Comcast, I had asked about repair shops, clubs,
>etc. and someone mentioned a British car club in Wilmington NC that got
>together maybe monthly (?).  Now I'm an ATMC customer without any of my
>archived messages so forgive the re-ask.
>
>By the way, I followed the advice of several of you that led me to Hendrix
>Wire Wheel - a good choice!
>
>Cheers
>
>Burt
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  9 18:46:47 2014
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Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2014 20:49:17 -0400
From: ggilliam@usol.com
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/0.8.1
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 on BAT
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A BJ8 is featured in the current auction selection on Bring A 
Trailer...

http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-austin-healey-mark-iii-bj8/

Gordy
Longbridge BN4
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  9 19:30:02 2014
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Date: Thu, 09 Oct 2014 20:21:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: llennep@verizon.net
To: coudesluijs@chello.nl, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust popping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have this same exhaust sound with the BN7.  I love to hear the rumble as the car decelerates!!!!  Almost as nice a sound as the sound of revving up through the gears!!!!
 
Keith
Baby Car, Patches 


On 10/09/14, Oudesluys wrote:

It indicates it is spot on. If you drive in th mountains it is a 
glorious sound. I love it.
Kees Oudesluijs


John Spaur schreef op 9-10-2014 3:35:
> Now that my pipes are well sealed to the muffler most of the annoying
> popping sound is gone.
>
> 
>
> Now I notice a slight popping when I decelerate. What would cause that? Does
> it indicate the carbs might be set a little rich?
>
> 
>
> John Spaur
>
> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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>
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>
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>
>
>
> -----
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct  9 20:34:31 2014
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usually the popping sound comes when the carbs are a little lean.  try richening a flat or two or a half turn on the screw.
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 10:22:34 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping
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The popping often happens on side draft carbs, no idea why. I have 
Dell'orto's on my car, running rather rich, and it pops gloriously on 
the overrun.
Listen to any 60's/70's Alfa Romeo, they all do it. If they don't there 
is something wrong. The same for most AH's and MG's although it is less 
pronounced than with the Alfa's

Kees Oudesluijs


healeymanjim@hansencc.net schreef op 10-10-2014 4:37:
> usually the popping sound comes when the carbs are a little lean.  try richening a flat or two or a half turn on the screw.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 10 07:08:10 2014
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 06:10:45 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping
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AFAIK, the 'popping' can only be one thing: small explosions in the exhaust system.  There can only be an explosion if 
there are three things: a combustible substance, an ignition source and oxygen (actual explosives provide their own 
oxygen, usually from oxides of nitrogen).

So, it follows there must be unburned fuel in the exhaust (duh), some oxygen--from air, this is why exhaust leaks 
contribute--and an ignition source (heat or hot spots in the system).  I suspect--don't know for a fact--the unburned 
fuel comes from the high vacuum in the intake system with closed throttles, which draws fuel from the jets even with the 
pistons down and the needles all but closing off the 'annular ring' between the needle and the jet opening.

At times, my BJ8 has not popped on decel/downhill/etc. with different exhaust systems.  Don't know why, I've kept pretty 
much the jet/mixture setting as long as I've had the car (31 years). Currently, I'm using an exhaust cobbled together 
from Ansa pipes with Heartthrob mufflers (from good ol' JC Whitney; I call it 'Frankenmuffler').  It pops a lot, 
including some pretty loud bangs with closed throttles going downhill.  I put an 'H' pipe between the pipes fore the 
front mufflers; suspect that contributes but danged if I know why.

Bob



On 10/10/2014 1:22 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> The popping often happens on side draft carbs, no idea why. I have Dell'orto's on my car, running rather rich, and it 
> pops gloriously on the overrun.
> Listen to any 60's/70's Alfa Romeo, they all do it. If they don't there is something wrong. The same for most AH's and 
> MG's although it is less pronounced than with the Alfa's
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 10 09:35:03 2014
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 11:37:36 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think a low restriction exhaust with less back pressure is more likely to
pop as well as a car with a hotter camshaft.  My bugeye has long center
branch headers, a fast road camshaft and what BMC called their "competition
muffler" and sounds just like the bugeye racers I recall from Lime Rock.
It's like a bowl of Rice Krispies with all the snaps, crackles and pops.
And the Nasty Boy?  Really low restriction exhaust and hotter cam.  Sounds
gorgeous on the overrun.

On Fri, Oct 10, 2014 at 9:10 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

>
>
> At times, my BJ8 has not popped on decel/downhill/etc. with different
> exhaust systems.  Don't know why, I've kept pretty much the jet/mixture
> setting as long as I've had the car (31 years). Currently, I'm using an
> exhaust cobbled together from Ansa pipes with Heartthrob mufflers (from
> good ol' JC Whitney; I call it 'Frankenmuffler').  It pops a lot, including
> some pretty loud bangs with closed throttles going downhill.  I put an 'H'
> pipe between the pipes fore the front mufflers; suspect that contributes
> but danged if I know why.
>
> Bob
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 10 12:16:04 2014
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References: <20141010023712.3344.qmail@server278.com>
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2014 11:17:56 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping
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When I acquired my BJ8 back in 1970, a previous owner, there were two, had 
removed the two resonators across the rear of the car.  The backfiring on 
deceleration was quite annoying to my copilot/navigator especially when 
descending hills in a lower gear.  I wasn't that fond of it either.  I 
reinstalled resonators and the popping went away.  No other changes were 
made as far as I can recall.  She and I were quite content going down hill 
after that (in the Healey, not the marriage).

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
***199,380 miles (recalculated 10/06/2014)***


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 6:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping


> >
> ...............At times, my BJ8 has not popped on decel/downhill/etc. with 
> different exhaust systems.  Don't know why, I've kept pretty much the 
> jet/mixture setting as long as I've had the car (31 years)............. > 
> Bob
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 11 01:16:38 2014
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Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2014 08:16:29 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The popping on overrun, as explained by Bob, is due to excess fuel burning
in the exhaust pipe. This is very common on cars with higher performance
engines, particularly hotter cams. My cam is 300 degree duration which
means big overlaps between intake and exhaust valves. When you suddenly
come off the throttle, excess fuel goes straight out of the exhaust ports,
then ignites on the hot exhaust. My car does this all the time. Its the
same reason that you see flames coming from some high performance race
cars. We even had some flames at last weeks Big Healey Invitational race at
Castle Coombe.

On Fri, Oct 10, 2014 at 7:17 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett <
thehartnetts@earthlink.net> wrote:

> When I acquired my BJ8 back in 1970, a previous owner, there were two, had
> removed the two resonators across the rear of the car.  The backfiring on
> deceleration was quite annoying to my copilot/navigator especially when
> descending hills in a lower gear.  I wasn't that fond of it either.  I
> reinstalled resonators and the popping went away.  No other changes were
> made as far as I can recall.  She and I were quite content going down hill
> after that (in the Healey, not the marriage).
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
> ***199,380 miles (recalculated 10/06/2014)***
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>; <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, October 10, 2014 6:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping
>
>
>  >
>> ...............At times, my BJ8 has not popped on decel/downhill/etc.
>> with different exhaust systems.  Don't know why, I've kept pretty much the
>> jet/mixture setting as long as I've had the car (31 years)............. >
>> Bob
>>
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 11 14:53:29 2014
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From: Lou G <lgalper1@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2014 13:55:58 -0700
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping
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My 100 pops when it's cold. Std cam. Low mileage engine.
Sounds cool -- will the muffler blow apart from stress someday?

Lou
Bn1
San Diego


Sent from my 'Healey' Phone
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From: "Ron Fine" <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>
To: "Lou G" <lgalper1@cox.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <AE12E888-3250-4FD2-BC7C-AC93E0630A27@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2014 14:17:32 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

When I was 17 years old and in the army, training at Fort Ord, CA as a truck 
driver, someone showed me how to make a lot of noise.  Driving a big truck 
downhill, coasting, just flip the ignition switch off and on again.  I blew 
apart a muffler once with that trick.  It was hard explaining what happened 
to my sergeant.

Ron

-----Original Message----- 
From: Lou G
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2014 1:55 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping

My 100 pops when it's cold. Std cam. Low mileage engine.
Sounds cool -- will the muffler blow apart from stress someday?

Lou
Bn1
San Diego


Sent from my 'Healey' Phone
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 11 15:28:00 2014
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Ron Fine'" <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>, "'Lou G'"
 <lgalper1@cox.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <AE12E888-3250-4FD2-BC7C-AC93E0630A27@cox.net>
 <8B838F73E6CA4E09BFCC02313A6479EC@Dell660>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2014 07:30:40 +1000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That trick used to work well back in the 60's when the cars and engines were
cheap to buy
John Rowe
Qld. Australia
BN1 BT7


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Fine
Sent: Sunday, 12 October 2014 7:18 AM
To: Lou G; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping

When I was 17 years old and in the army, training at Fort Ord, CA as a truck
driver, someone showed me how to make a lot of noise.  Driving a big truck
downhill, coasting, just flip the ignition switch off and on again.  I blew
apart a muffler once with that trick.  It was hard explaining what happened
to my sergeant.

Ron

-----Original Message----- 
From: Lou G
Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2014 1:55 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping

My 100 pops when it's cold. Std cam. Low mileage engine.
Sounds cool -- will the muffler blow apart from stress someday?

Lou
Bn1
San Diego
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 11 20:35:33 2014
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Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2014 19:33:45 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: Ron Fine <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>, Lou G <lgalper1@cox.net>, 
 healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] exhaust popping
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Similar to what happens when doing a 'mag check' in a light piston airplane.  In switching from one magneto to another, 
sometimes you accidentally turn both off, and a loud backfire often occurs.  If it's bad enough an engine shutdown and 
inspection of the exhaust system is in order.

On another note, didn't some other British cars--old MGs maybe--have an 'overrun' valve to prevent such 
backfiring/popping?  I presume the idea is to have the high vacuum open an alternate air source to dilute the mixture.

Bob


On 10/11/2014 2:17 PM, Ron Fine wrote:
> When I was 17 years old and in the army, training at Fort Ord, CA as a truck driver, someone showed me how to make a 
> lot of noise.  Driving a big truck downhill, coasting, just flip the ignition switch off and on again.  I blew apart a 
> muffler once with that trick.  It was hard explaining what happened to my sergeant.
>
> Ron
>
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 12 13:22:59 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2014 15:24:41 -0400
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keith  Edwards
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If anyone has a current contact number for Keith, please let me know. If
you are out there Keith, contact me off the list. Thanks.

Cheers,

Doug
____________________________________________________________
Map Your Flood Risk
Find Floodplan Maps, Facts, FAQs, Your Flood Risk Profile and More!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/543ad5ae4c39355ae7bd9st04duc
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 12 20:53:38 2014
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Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2014 19:55:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
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Subject: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have had my three wire O2sensors and AirFuel meter for quite a while but now thought I have the time to do something about the readings. 
I have a mostly stock BJ8 with Kirk headers, 10%ethanol. With stock needles, I cruise one meter segment LED rich at sea level and at 2000 feet, the next richer meter segment is flickering. Not so bad, I guess. The faster I go, the richer I get in a gradual manner. However, when I climb a hill during the cruise at around 70mph, the meter goes dead lean (one LED from zero). It usually shows completely lean at hard acceleration also. 
40mph cruise gives the same one LED rich as at 70.
So should I get some weaker springs first or try for a needle that tapers to rich faster after the cruise?
The web stuff I see says to try the needles.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 12 20:59:33 2014
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Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2014 17:02:22 -1000
From: Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Thanksgiving [ Monday ]
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

To all our friends in Canada, Happy Thanksgiving !
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 12 22:11:31 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2014 21:13:43 -0700
To: Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Thanksgiving [ Monday ]
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone know the story behind the Canadian Holiday?
Monday Bank Holiday or?
Cheers

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 8:02 PM, Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com> wrote:

> To all our friends in Canada, Happy Thanksgiving !
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 09:46:57 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1534484734.16963.1413168958312.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What oil do you use in the dashpots? One should use thin oil like 3in1 
(best and cheap) or the special stuff sold for the purpose.
Kees Oudesluijs


goldengt@cal.net schreef op 13-10-2014 4:55:
> I have had my three wire O2sensors and AirFuel meter for quite a while but now thought I have the time to do something about the readings.
> I have a mostly stock BJ8 with Kirk headers, 10%ethanol. With stock needles, I cruise one meter segment LED rich at sea level and at 2000 feet, the next richer meter segment is flickering. Not so bad, I guess. The faster I go, the richer I get in a gradual manner. However, when I climb a hill during the cruise at around 70mph, the meter goes dead lean (one LED from zero). It usually shows completely lean at hard acceleration also.
> 40mph cruise gives the same one LED rich as at 70.
> So should I get some weaker springs first or try for a needle that tapers to rich faster after the cruise?
> The web stuff I see says to try the needles.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 01:53:59 2014
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References: <1534484734.16963.1413168958312.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
From: 'bluehealey' <bluehealey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 08:53:03 +0100
To: "goldengt@cal.net" <goldengt@cal.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This sounds like the float bowls running low at WOT (wide open throttle).
I have a 3wire sensor in my down pipes too and have found that standard
springs and needles are pretty much spot on in a BJ8 spec.


AlanB - iPhone message.

> On 13 Oct 2014, at 03:55, goldengt@cal.net wrote:
>
> I have had my three wire O2sensors and AirFuel meter for quite a while but
now thought I have the time to do something about the readings.
> I have a mostly stock BJ8 with Kirk headers, 10%ethanol. With stock needles,
I cruise one meter segment LED rich at sea level and at 2000 feet, the next
richer meter segment is flickering. Not so bad, I guess. The faster I go, the
richer I get in a gradual manner. However, when I climb a hill during the
cruise at around 70mph, the meter goes dead lean (one LED from zero). It
usually shows completely lean at hard acceleration also.
> 40mph cruise gives the same one LED rich as at 70.
> So should I get some weaker springs first or try for a needle that tapers to
rich faster after the cruise?
> The web stuff I see says to try the needles.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 08:09:58 2014
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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 07:10:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
 tests=NO_REAL_NAME
 Rule breakdown below pts rule name              description ----
 ----------------------
 -------------------------------------------------- 0.00 NO_REAL_NAME  
 From: does not include a real name
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The special stuff.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 12:46:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning

What oil do you use in the dashpots? One should use thin oil like 3in1 
(best and cheap) or the special stuff sold for the purpose.
Kees Oudesluijs


goldengt@cal.net schreef op 13-10-2014 4:55:
> I have had my three wire O2sensors and AirFuel meter for quite a while but now thought I have the time to do something about the readings.
> I have a mostly stock BJ8 with Kirk headers, 10%ethanol. With stock needles, I cruise one meter segment LED rich at sea level and at 2000 feet, the next richer meter segment is flickering. Not so bad, I guess. The faster I go, the richer I get in a gradual manner. However, when I climb a hill during the cruise at around 70mph, the meter goes dead lean (one LED from zero). It usually shows completely lean at hard acceleration also.
> 40mph cruise gives the same one LED rich as at 70.
> So should I get some weaker springs first or try for a needle that tapers to rich faster after the cruise?
> The web stuff I see says to try the needles.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4765 / Virusdatabase: 4040/8379 - datum van uitgifte: 10/13/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 08:24:47 2014
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 14:23:53 +0000
References: <CANqsgC5F9aQ5eGbGb+txPUcHMngTf2N7JWdADp9VhvH2SehRuQ@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CACPMnYr6VdE11ZHknrNvPugwWxyZ+hdeF6czVupWB6To5Yhqkw@mail.gmail.com>
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Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Thanksgiving [ Monday ]
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira:
Apparently the Thanksgiving Holiday in Canada is a Christian tradition
celebrating the bountiful harvest in the older days. I did not know that
either but I asked that question just last night when friends were visiting.

Jean

> From: eyera3000@gmail.com
> Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2014 21:13:43 -0700
> To: kimobriske@gmail.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Thanksgiving [ Monday ]
>
> Anyone know the story behind the Canadian Holiday?
> Monday Bank Holiday or?
> Cheers
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>
> On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 8:02 PM, Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > To all our friends in Canada, Happy Thanksgiving !
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 09:10:13 2014
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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 09:12:52 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] holidays...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And today is the traditional American Columbus Day.. however, that has 
been deemed too politically incorrect for those who, for reasons 
unbeknownst to me, have the power to make such asinine changes to 
tradition...
dave
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 09:15:16 2014
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References: <543BEBF4.3030106@porterscustom.com>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 08:17:37 -0700
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] holidays...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You mean Native American subjugation Day does not have the same ring?

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 8:12 AM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
wrote:

> And today is the traditional American Columbus Day.. however, that has
> been deemed too politically incorrect for those who, for reasons
> unbeknownst to me, have the power to make such asinine changes to
> tradition...
> dave
> --
> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107
> 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 15:19:12 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
References: <543BEBF4.3030106@porterscustom.com>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: holidays...
Thread-Index: DbzKp370JVDqHT0JIQpVDWfhChXeag==
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] holidays...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

re: ".. for reasons unbeknownst to me .." 

Here's a few: 

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/eric-kasum/columbus-day-a-bad-idea_b_742708.html 

----- Original Message -----

From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com> 
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 8:12:52 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] holidays... 

And today is the traditional American Columbus Day.. however, that has 
been deemed too politically incorrect for those who, for reasons 
unbeknownst to me, have the power to make such asinine changes to 
tradition... 
dave 
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/ 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 08:20:59 -0700
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <2fDK1p00U0NyJgq01fDLlG>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] holidays...
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It's still Columbus day.

Some "traditions" are disgusting with the 20/20 of hindsight.


On Oct 13, 2014, at 8:12 AM, David Porter wrote:

> And today is the traditional American Columbus Day.. however, that has been
deemed too politically incorrect for those who, for reasons unbeknownst to me,
have the power to make such asinine changes to tradition...
> dave
> --
> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107
505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 10:10:10 2014
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To: e-wilkins@cox.net
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 12:05:37 -0400
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] holidays...
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Please name one so I may have the benefit of "hindsight". 

On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 08:20:59 -0700 Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net> writes:
> It's still Columbus day.
> 
> Some "traditions" are disgusting with the 20/20 of hindsight.
> 
> 
> On Oct 13, 2014, at 8:12 AM, David Porter wrote:
> 
> > And today is the traditional American Columbus Day.. however, that 
> has been
> deemed too politically incorrect for those who, for reasons 
> unbeknownst to me,
> have the power to make such asinine changes to tradition...
> > dave
> > --
> > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, 
> NM 87107
> 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg@juno.com
> 
> 
 

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 10:25:44 2014
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From: Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:28:32 -0300
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[BA00F710:01CFE702]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Thanksgiving [ Monday ]
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

the first. Thanksgiving in what's now Canada was celebrated by Martin
Frobisher in Newfoundland in 1578 (incidentally 43 years before the Pilgrim
Fathers) to give thanks for his successful voyage across the Atlantic.

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 13, 2014, at 11:28 AM, Jean Caron
<vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Ira:
> Apparently the Thanksgiving Holiday in Canada is a Christian tradition
> celebrating the bountiful harvest in the older days. I did not know that
> either but I asked that question just last night when friends were
visiting.
>
> Jean
>
>> From: eyera3000@gmail.com
>> Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2014 21:13:43 -0700
>> To: kimobriske@gmail.com
>> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Thanksgiving [ Monday ]
>>
>> Anyone know the story behind the Canadian Holiday?
>> Monday Bank Holiday or?
>> Cheers
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland, OR
>>  _______                                  _______
>>    (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>>        (_________________________)
>>
>>> On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 8:02 PM, Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com>
wrote:
>>>
>>> To all our friends in Canada, Happy Thanksgiving !
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
> tmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 10:57:00 2014
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From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net>
To: <goldengt@cal.net>, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1534484734.16963.1413168958312.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 09:59:44 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This is very interesting to me, as now that have converted my '67 BJ8 to -ve
ground, one of my Winter projects is to install a pair of Bosch wideband O2 
sensors.
So would really like to hear of your experiences when you did this, and what
sensors and monitoring equipment you are using ? Assume that you have
installed 2 sensors and have 2 monitors or do you switch ? How difficult was
it to install the bung for mounting the sensors ? Innovate are supposedly 
coming out with a new model where you can monitor data on your phone.
As you have reported, this really does give a true indication of the SU
tuning at WOT and under load and cruising conditions; when all is said and 
done the usual SU tuning
is done near idle and relies on the needle profile and springs etc. being 
correct
for your engine, fuel, altitude and how you drive.
I do agree with "Blue Healy"  that what you have reported seems to point to
some fuel starvation at WOT -  SU and AH surely did not get the profile sooo 
wrong.
Any input on this topic much appreciated.
rg

-----Original Message----- 
From: goldengt@cal.net
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2014 7:55 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning

I have had my three wire O2sensors and AirFuel meter for quite a while but 
now thought I have the time to do something about the readings.
I have a mostly stock BJ8 with Kirk headers, 10%ethanol. With stock needles, 
I cruise one meter segment LED rich at sea level and at 2000 feet, the next 
richer meter segment is flickering. Not so bad, I guess. The faster I go, 
the richer I get in a gradual manner. However, when I climb a hill during 
the cruise at around 70mph, the meter goes dead lean (one LED from zero). It 
usually shows completely lean at hard acceleration also.
40mph cruise gives the same one LED rich as at 70.
So should I get some weaker springs first or try for a needle that tapers to 
rich faster after the cruise?
The web stuff I see says to try the needles.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace@telus.net 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 11:10:15 2014
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 10:10:26 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/nCJUiVgP8SnqNSiCut4cIzRLi+g==
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
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Ken,

These are my notes from an APT dyno session a couple of years ago:

 

>>> 

According to the dyno-tuners, Advanced Performance Technology.

 

http://www.aptfast.com/

 

.this is what we learned at a session there: the spring issue is
counter-intuitive. According to APT, the going next step heavier spring will
often make an improvement in drivability. It will make the carb richer
throughout the range by increasing the air velocity past the jet. This has
more effect than raising the needle. Heavier damper oil will have the effect
of richening the mixture on acceleration as it retards the rise of the
piston while ultimately having no effect at cruise.

Together the two of them constitute the "accelerator pump" on the SU.

 

At the session, we observed this on my friend Peter Roses' 29D 100-6 by
swapping springs then making runs on the back streets in Riverside adjacent
to APT. One step heavier resulted in improved performance. Two steps heavier
not so good. Back to the original then settling on one-step heavier.

 

I've observed the heavier-oil richening. Both of us are running K&N air-fuel
meters so we can see the leanness and richness on the gauges for each carb.

<<< 

 

PS - APT said that some racers were using gear oil in their dashpots.

 

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6 - 29D engine, HD8s, Kirk headers
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References: <543BEBF4.3030106@porterscustom.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 10:56:31 -0700
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] holidays...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I thought we agreed to keep political opinions off this Forum.  

Ron Mitchell


On Monday, October 13, 2014 11:12 AM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com> wrote:
 


And today is the traditional American Columbus Day.. however, that has 
been deemed too politically incorrect for those who, for reasons 
unbeknownst to me, have the power to make such asinine changes to 
tradition...
dave
-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From: Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Thanksgiving
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A good day to enjoy a fall drive !
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 12:40:28 2014
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Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 12:43:14 -0600
From: "E.A. Driver" <edriver@sasktel.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CANqsgC5F9aQ5eGbGb+txPUcHMngTf2N7JWdADp9VhvH2SehRuQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Thanksgiving [ Monday ]
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No.No Rick. It was the Vikings who landed in Newfoundland in 1000AD, out 
of Meade
and finally sobering up enjoyed the willow leaves the natives supplied 
to relieve their
headache. They gave thanks as they discovered aspirin and became filthly 
rich ;-) :-P ;-)

Ed
Saskatoon


14 10:28 AM, Rick Swain wrote:
> the first. Thanksgiving in what's now Canada was celebrated by Martin
> Frobisher in Newfoundland in 1578 (incidentally 43 years before the Pilgrim
> Fathers) to give thanks for his successful voyage across the Atlantic.
>
> Sent from my iPad
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 13:10:35 2014
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From: Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 16:08:08 -0300
To: "E.A. Driver" <edriver@sasktel.net>
 FILETIME=[07A3FCE0:01CFE719]
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy Thanksgiving [ Monday ]
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Ed for clearing that up for me. I'm at my son's place polishing off
local wine while waiting for the arrival of the turkey. Sixteen of us - happy
chaos.

Rick
Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 13, 2014, at 3:47 PM, E.A. Driver <edriver@sasktel.net> wrote:
>
> hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 13:13:14 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 20:16:02 +0100
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Subject: [Healeys] Prices
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I bought one of the car magazines the other day. Forget which one...the one
with a red 3000 on the front.

Anyhow, I was struck by the "For sale" cars' prices....by how much they seem
to have risen since I last looked. Is it my memory that's failed or have
prices risen quite considerably in, say, the last 15 months? That would be a
rise across the whole market..............

I live in the UK....don't know if it's happening on both sides of the
Atlantic...?

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 13:40:02 2014
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From: "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 14:42:47 -0500
References: <000001cfe71a$2300ba90$69022fb0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
thread-topic: [Healeys] Prices
thread-index: Ac/nHa8fT1MFXvE7T3GDfem1N759Yg==
To: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Prices
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A 1958 100-6 unrestored with a non running engine was sold at an estate
auction this Saturday in Omaha Nebraska for $8500. It had a broken windshield,
rotted interior, no transmission, numerous dents and moderate rust.

Restored Healeys seem to be advertised for $49k-$69k on hemmings and eBay and
perfect examples are listed at $89k or more.

I wonder what they are actually selling for.

Chris Scholz OD

> On Oct 13, 2014, at 2:15 PM, "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:
>
> I bought one of the car magazines the other day. Forget which one...the one
> with a red 3000 on the front.
>
> Anyhow, I was struck by the "For sale" cars' prices....by how much they
seem
> to have risen since I last looked. Is it my memory that's failed or have
> prices risen quite considerably in, say, the last 15 months? That would be
a
> rise across the whole market..............
>
> I live in the UK....don't know if it's happening on both sides of the
> Atlantic...?
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drscholz@visioncenterpc.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 13:55:05 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 12:53:52 -0700
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Prices
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

IMHO we are in am investment bubble. Can't earn much money in bank savings,
the upper class is making money faster than they can spend it, so
investment in cars seems to be the current focus. Yes they are going up. So
be sure to up your agreed upon values of your cars. I raise mine a min of
5% each year, but have boosted it as much as 15% and Hagerty has not pushed
back.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 12:16 PM, Simon Lachlan <
simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:

> I bought one of the car magazines the other day. Forget which one...the one
> with a red 3000 on the front.
>
> Anyhow, I was struck by the "For sale" cars' prices....by how much they
> seem
> to have risen since I last looked. Is it my memory that's failed or have
> prices risen quite considerably in, say, the last 15 months? That would be
> a
> rise across the whole market..............
>
> I live in the UK....don't know if it's happening on both sides of the
> Atlantic...?
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 13 18:48:54 2014
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From: George Marinos <gmari2@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 20:51:26 -0400
References: <8D1B54E6966506C-19B8-2389D@webmail-vm165.sysops.aol.com>
To: Spridget List <spridgets@autox.team.net>, Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: Mark Kriwinsky <MK31755@aol.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: katlan Jones
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Greetings lists,
Does anyone know a Katlan Jones from Potomac, Maryland?  A friend is trying to
locate her as she is a big Healey person and not in any of the clubs
directories.
Many thanks.
George in jersey

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Mark Kriwinsky <mk31755@aol.com>
> Date: October 13, 2014 at 6:44:41 PM EDT
> To: gmari2@verizon.net
> Subject: katlan Jones
>
> George;
>
>    I'm trying to find a Katlan Jones who lives in Potomac Maryland.  Is this
person a member of your club.  They are not a member of the USA or America
Club.
>
>
Mark Kriwinsky
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 06:14:52 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 05:10:47 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars 100M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On an episode I saw last night Wayne inspected and picked-up a red/black 100M.  He mostly got the info correct, but was 
suspicious that the car did not have the small 'M' on the grill flash.  I've read they weren't always installed, and may 
have been a 'bonus' for preferred customers, or it could have fallen off at some time.  At any rate, it was a beautiful 
car with only 35K miles and original paint.  They should show the sale in a later episode; if I miss it maybe someone 
could report the sale price.  I'm guessing $200K or better (especially if it goes to auction).

On another note, anyone heard from Alan Seigrist?  He used to be a regular poster but haven't heard from him in a while.

Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 06:29:44 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 8:30:08 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, healeylist
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars 100M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

He lives in Hong Kong----maybe caught up in all the fuss going on over there.

tom
---- Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
On an episode I saw last night Wayne inspected and picked-up a red/black 100M.  He mostly got the info correct, but was 
suspicious that the car did not have the small 'M' on the grill flash.  I've read they weren't always installed, and may 
have been a 'bonus' for preferred customers, or it could have fallen off at some time.  At any rate, it was a beautiful 
car with only 35K miles and original paint.  They should show the sale in a later episode; if I miss it maybe someone 
could report the sale price.  I'm guessing $200K or better (especially if it goes to auction).

On another note, anyone heard from Alan Seigrist?  He used to be a regular poster but haven't heard from him in a while.

Bob

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 07:30:14 2014
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From: "Charlie Schott" <schottc@knology.net>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <543D12C7.1040409@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 06:33:03 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Painting the cove
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

When painting the cove on a two tone BT7, how far do you go under the front 
and rear fenders? And what about the color of the bolt heads? Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott



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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 14:07:44 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>
References: <543D12C7.1040409@comcast.net>
 <2FDE0DE9CAE64BFDAC746A003C600B00@CharliePC>
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Thread-Topic: Painting the cove
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Painting the cove
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AFAIK, the cove color was applied at the factory by masking along the bottom edge of the character line flange, and applied to everything below (including bolts). There was likely overspray in the wheel wells and under the car, though I've never seen an original enough car to know for sure (the wheels and tires, if they were on, were likely covered). 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



When painting the cove on a two tone BT7, how far do you go under the front 
and rear fenders? And what about the color of the bolt heads? Thanks. 

Regards, 

Charlie Schott 



-- 


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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 08:32:47 2014
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References: <543D12C7.1040409@comcast.net>
 <2FDE0DE9CAE64BFDAC746A003C600B00@CharliePC>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 07:35:02 -0700
To: Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Painting the cove
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

paint down to the flange. Bolts should not be painted. You should back them
off from time to time and clean out behind the wings (fenders). That's why
they are there. if you paint over them you will ruin the paint if you need
to unscrew then.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 6:33 AM, Charlie Schott <schottc@knology.net> wrote:

> When painting the cove on a two tone BT7, how far do you go under the
> front and rear fenders? And what about the color of the bolt heads? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
>
>
> --
>
>
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 14:38:02 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
References: <543D12C7.1040409@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Painting the cove
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Makes a lot of sense; in fact, we painted our BN2 in pieces then assembled so the bolt heads are not painted. But, is that how it was done at the (Jensen?) factory? 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----


paint down to the flange. Bolts should not be painted. You should back them off from time to time and clean out behind the wings (fenders). That's why they are there. if you paint over them you will ruin the paint if you need to unscrew then. 

Ira Erbs 
Portland, OR 
_______ _______ 
(______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) 
(_________________________) 

On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 6:33 AM, Charlie Schott < schottc@knology.net > wrote: 


When painting the cove on a two tone BT7, how far do you go under the front and rear fenders? And what about the color of the bolt heads? Thanks. 

Regards, 

Charlie Schott 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 09:00:45 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 15:03:22 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On Wednesday, October 1st I installed an all aluminum radiator in my BN1 100.
On
Saturday, October 4th I went on a 200 mile plus journey from the valley floor
in
northern California up to 8500 feet elevation at the summit of Mount
Lassen and then back into the valley. The temperature in the valley
was about 95 degrees F and going up in to the mountains, I got stuck
behind a motor home and on a very twisty, steep, hot and slow road,
that's where I got my hottest, a little under 200 degrees! The rest of
the trip I ranged from 150 degrees to 190! I'm not even going to count
the 120 I got coming down out of the mountains!
All in all, it's the best thing I've ever done for my car. The
radiator was made by Wizardo;? out of New York, I got it off of eBay and other
than
them sending me the wrong radiator to begin with, (which they did
straighten out), I would highly recommend their work and product. NFI,
just happy with what it's done to my car. Didn't have to change a
thing in the car and it bolted right in! Sweet!
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 09:14:41 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 15:15:15 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
References: <6d02f4f2-de34-4de8-bfc7-b67aeb1acc1b@me.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Cool :) FWIW, that's pretty much how my BJ8 behaves with a stock radiator and Texas Cooler fan. Are you running a stock BN1 fan? 

On a side note, does anyone know why our cars routinely run under the thermostat set point? For example, I have a 180degF thermostat in my BJ8, and on not-hot days on the freeway it may run around 160degF. Under warmer conditions with more of a load it'll hold 180 until stuck in traffic, etc. then goes up 10-20 degrees. The thermostat should stay closed until reaching the set point--e.g. 180--then open and maintain that temperature until the the radiator can no longer, well, radiate all the heat produced by the engine. Is it possible our engines are being air-cooled enough to stay under the thermostat set point under benign temp and load conditions? 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



On Wednesday, October 1st I installed an all aluminum radiator in my BN1 100. 
On 
Saturday, October 4th I went on a 200 mile plus journey from the valley floor 
in 
northern California up to 8500 feet elevation at the summit of Mount 
Lassen and then back into the valley. The temperature in the valley 
was about 95 degrees F and going up in to the mountains, I got stuck 
behind a motor home and on a very twisty, steep, hot and slow road, 
that's where I got my hottest, a little under 200 degrees! The rest of 
the trip I ranged from 150 degrees to 190! I'm not even going to count 
the 120 I got coming down out of the mountains! 
All in all, it's the best thing I've ever done for my car. The 
radiator was made by Wizardo;? out of New York, I got it off of eBay and other 
than 
them sending me the wrong radiator to begin with, (which they did 
straighten out), I would highly recommend their work and product. NFI, 
just happy with what it's done to my car. Didn't have to change a 
thing in the car and it bolted right in! Sweet! 
Steven Kingsbury 
BN1 #598 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 10:03:00 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 09:05:48 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Painting the cove
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Charlie,

Regarding the bolt heads on the wings, they were painted at the factory
since the entire body was painted assembled at Jensen, and not how we
restore the cars today, and painted in pieces.

Curt

On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 7:38 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Makes a lot of sense; in fact, we painted our BN2 in pieces then assembled
> so the bolt heads are not painted. But, is that how it was done at the
> (Jensen?) factory?
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> paint down to the flange. Bolts should not be painted. You should back
> them off from time to time and clean out behind the wings (fenders). That's
> why they are there. if you paint over them you will ruin the paint if you
> need to unscrew then.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
>
> On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 6:33 AM, Charlie Schott < schottc@knology.net >
> wrote:
>
>
> When painting the cove on a two tone BT7, how far do you go under the
> front and rear fenders? And what about the color of the bolt heads? Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
> _______________________________________________
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From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

In general the temperature should be more or less constant under any 
condition, just slightly above the opening temperature of the 
thermostat. If the temperature shows to be lower than the thermostat 
opening temperature the thermostat is at fault or is the wrong type (it 
should be of the sleeved type), assuming the heater is turned off. If 
very cold, with the heater plus heater fan on maximum, the temperature 
could drop below the opening temperature of the thermostat.
If the temperature increases significantly the cooling capacity is 
insufficient because of blockages/dirt, faulty water pump or the wrong 
radiator capacity.
Older cars can have insufficient cooling capacity at low speeds/engine 
revs, hence the advise to fit a thermostatically controlled electric fan 
when the car is used in modern traffic.
Kees Oudesluijs


Bob Spidell schreef op 14-10-2014 17:15:
> Cool :) FWIW, that's pretty much how my BJ8 behaves with a stock radiator and Texas Cooler fan. Are you running a stock BN1 fan?
>
> On a side note, does anyone know why our cars routinely run under the thermostat set point? For example, I have a 180degF thermostat in my BJ8, and on not-hot days on the freeway it may run around 160degF. Under warmer conditions with more of a load it'll hold 180 until stuck in traffic, etc. then goes up 10-20 degrees. The thermostat should stay closed until reaching the set point--e.g. 180--then open and maintain that temperature until the the radiator can no longer, well, radiate all the heat produced by the engine. Is it possible our engines are being air-cooled enough to stay under the thermostat set point under benign temp and load conditions?
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 1st I installed an all aluminum radiator in my BN1 100.
> On
> Saturday, October 4th I went on a 200 mile plus journey from the valley floor
> in
> northern California up to 8500 feet elevation at the summit of Mount
> Lassen and then back into the valley. The temperature in the valley
> was about 95 degrees F and going up in to the mountains, I got stuck
> behind a motor home and on a very twisty, steep, hot and slow road,
> that's where I got my hottest, a little under 200 degrees! The rest of
> the trip I ranged from 150 degrees to 190! I'm not even going to count
> the 120 I got coming down out of the mountains!
> All in all, it's the best thing I've ever done for my car. The
> radiator was made by Wizardo;? out of New York, I got it off of eBay and other
> than
> them sending me the wrong radiator to begin with, (which they did
> straighten out), I would highly recommend their work and product. NFI,
> just happy with what it's done to my car. Didn't have to change a
> thing in the car and it bolted right in! Sweet!
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
>
>
> -----
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> Versie: 2014.0.4765 / Virusdatabase: 4040/8387 - datum van uitgifte: 10/14/14
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From: Paul Leeks <paull@glasgows.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 17:43:28 +0100
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Prices
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ira makes a good point.

I had my rather scratty old 100/6 insured for years for #12k.  Last year my
broker advised me to up it #20k!

It's still scratty and, no, the premium didn't increase a lot :-)

Paul Leeks
Lancashire 100/6 BN4


> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2014 12:53:52 -0700
> From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Prices
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CACPMnYprMnSf14XgQ1kTPzuvzDaF8rXp8nXcn3gZWUN+nvPebg@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> IMHO we are in am investment bubble. Can't earn much money in bank savings,
> the upper class is making money faster than they can spend it, so
> investment in cars seems to be the current focus. Yes they are going up. So
> be sure to up your agreed upon values of your cars. I raise mine a min of
> 5% each year, but have boosted it as much as 15% and Hagerty has not pushed
> back.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>
>

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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 16:47:03 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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Subject: [Healeys] Running Temps--Was: Re:  Aluminum Radiator
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Agreed. I am using a (modern) sleeved-type thermostat, have a calibrated gauge and have tried several thermostats (I tested a couple on the stove and they functioned as expected). Still, my BJ8 engine will run below the thermostat set point on a cool day with light load--I would expect the coolant temp even under those conditions to rise to nominal, but it doesn't. Our BN2 behaves the same way. 

The only comparison I can think of is air-cooled aircraft engines, which usually have an oil cooler. There is a valve called a Vernatherm--essentially a bi-metal strip--that closes off oil flow to the oil cooler radiator to allow the engine to warm to operating temperature before the cooler is brought 'online.' But, an air-cooled engine can dissipate a lot more heat than an Austin lump. 

Is it possible the huge chunk of iron in front could be 'self-cooling' to a point then, beyond that point, even with wide-open thermostat, cannot maintain a set temperature? My guess is that at speed there is sufficient airflow to cool the engine--even below the thermostat set point--but once stuck in traffic or with a load there isn't enough excess airflow and the cooling system's capability is exceeded (as Kees mentioned). 

Bob 


----- Original Message -----



In general the temperature should be more or less constant under any 
condition, just slightly above the opening temperature of the 
thermostat. If the temperature shows to be lower than the thermostat 
opening temperature the thermostat is at fault or is the wrong type (it 
should be of the sleeved type), assuming the heater is turned off. If 
very cold, with the heater plus heater fan on maximum, the temperature 
could drop below the opening temperature of the thermostat. 
If the temperature increases significantly the cooling capacity is 
insufficient because of blockages/dirt, faulty water pump or the wrong 
radiator capacity. 
Older cars can have insufficient cooling capacity at low speeds/engine 
revs, hence the advise to fit a thermostatically controlled electric fan 
when the car is used in modern traffic. 
Kees Oudesluijs 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 10:50:53 2014
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From: "Mike Garvey" <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 12:53:53 -0400
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: Ac/nz2/BqtWikB47QDK/OIDEyoW7hA==
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Door Lock Plate R&R
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The door lock plate (Moss terms) on my BJ8 needs work: the round pin is worn
and loose on its mount.  I can buy a replacement lock plate; my question has
to do with the anatomy of the fasteners inside what I think is called the
"shut pillar".  Before I remove the screws that hold the lock plate on, I
want to be sure that they don't fall into some deep crevice.
Advice welcome..
Thanks, Mike 
 
Michael Garvey
1967 BJ8/38046
Swampscott, MA
_______________________________________________
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Door Lock Plate R&R
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Mike, 

If you're referring to the large, Posidrive screws they are retained by a captive, tapped nut plate behind the shut pillar. It won't fall out, but slides around a little. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



The door lock plate (Moss terms) on my BJ8 needs work: the round pin is worn 
and loose on its mount. I can buy a replacement lock plate; my question has 
to do with the anatomy of the fasteners inside what I think is called the 
"shut pillar". Before I remove the screws that hold the lock plate on, I 
want to be sure that they don't fall into some deep crevice. 
Advice welcome.. 
Thanks, Mike 

Michael Garvey 
1967 BJ8/38046 
Swampscott, MA 
_______________________________________________ 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 11:01:27 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <077501cfe7cf$7038f060$50aad120$@net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Door Lock Plate R&R
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There is a tapped steel plate behind the shut pillar, it can be reached 
from inside the fender well.
John
BJ8s

On 10/14/2014 12:53 PM, Mike Garvey wrote:
> The door lock plate (Moss terms) on my BJ8 needs work: the round pin is worn
> and loose on its mount.  I can buy a replacement lock plate; my question has
> to do with the anatomy of the fasteners inside what I think is called the
> "shut pillar".  Before I remove the screws that hold the lock plate on, I
> want to be sure that they don't fall into some deep crevice.
> Advice welcome..
> Thanks, Mike
>   
> Michael Garvey
> 1967 BJ8/38046
> Swampscott, MA
> _______________________________________________
> S
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To: tomfelts@windstream.net, bspidell@comcast.net,
  healeys@autox.team.net
From: Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars 100M
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He has been active on Facebook and everything is going well with his life.
Jim Werner

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Felts
<tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>; healeylist
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Oct 14, 2014 12:09 pm
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars 100M


He lives in Hong Kong----maybe caught up
in all the fuss going on over there.

tom
---- Bob Spidell
<bspidell@comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
On an episode I saw last night
Wayne inspected and picked-up a red/black 100M.  
He mostly got the info
correct, but was 
suspicious that the car did not have the small 'M' on the
grill flash.  I've 
read they weren't always installed, and may 
have been a
'bonus' for preferred customers, or it could have fallen off at some 
time.
At any rate, it was a beautiful 
car with only 35K miles and original paint.
They should show the sale in a 
later episode; if I miss it maybe someone
could report the sale price.  I'm guessing $200K or better (especially if it
goes to auction).

On another note, anyone heard from Alan Seigrist?  He used
to be a regular 
poster but haven't heard from him in a while.

Bob

--
*******************************************************************
Bob
Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
*******************************************************************
Suggested
annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 12:03:43 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 14:03:55 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Door Lock Plate R&R
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If Mike is using Moss terms then the plate that he is referring to is on
the door not the door post.
The plate with the sliding shoe which is held to the door post by two
countersunk Phillips screws is the striker.
The lock plate(s) [original part numbers AHB9532/3] are secured to the
door, together with the door lock (the thing with the rotating horseshoe
catch on it), by four 3/16 countersunk screws.
I believe that there are cage nuts welded into the rear frame of the door
but it is a long time since I had one of those apart so perhaps there is
someone out there who could confirm that for Mike.
*From memory* I believe Mike is correct to be a little cautious because if
the caged nuts turn in their cages they are somewhat difficult to access.

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 12:53 PM, Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net> wrote:

> The door lock plate (Moss terms) on my BJ8 needs work: the round pin is
> worn
> and loose on its mount.  I can buy a replacement lock plate; my question
> has
> to do with the anatomy of the fasteners inside what I think is called the
> "shut pillar".  Before I remove the screws that hold the lock plate on, I
> want to be sure that they don't fall into some deep crevice.
> Advice welcome..
> Thanks, Mike
>
> Michael Garvey
> 1967 BJ8/38046
> Swampscott, MA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 12:48:50 2014
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To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Door Lock Plate R&R
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Sorry I was not clear; the part that I am referring to is not on the door.  I
think I have enough info to proceed.  Thanks to all.
Mike

From: michael.salter@gmail.com [mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com] On Behalf Of
Michael Salter
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 2:04 PM
To: Mike Garvey
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Door Lock Plate R&R


If Mike is using Moss terms then the plate that he is referring to is on the
door not the door post.
The plate with the sliding shoe which is held to the door post by two
countersunk Phillips screws is the striker.
The lock plate(s) [original part numbers AHB9532/3] are secured to the door,
together with the door lock (the thing with the rotating horseshoe catch on
it), by four 3/16 countersunk screws.
I believe that there are cage nuts welded into the rear frame of the door but
it is a long time since I had one of those apart so perhaps there is someone
out there who could confirm that for Mike.
>From memory I believe Mike is correct to be a little cautious because if the
caged nuts turn in their cages they are somewhat difficult to access.

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 12:53 PM, Mike Garvey <r3m1g4@verizon.net> wrote:
The door lock plate (Moss terms) on my BJ8 needs work: the round pin is worn
and loose on its mount.  I can buy a replacement lock plate; my question has
to do with the anatomy of the fasteners inside what I think is called the
"shut pillar".  Before I remove the screws that hold the lock plate on, I
want to be sure that they don't fall into some deep crevice.
Advice welcome..
Thanks, Mike

Michael Garvey
1967 BJ8/38046
Swampscott, MA
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 13:15:54 2014
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
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I have a radiator with a modern core in my BJ8.  It is really the only thing
I've ever found that would keep the temperature down in the cooling system.
I also have a NOS AC sleeved thermostat (thanks, Kees!) rated at 187 deg. F.
After the installation of the radiator, my car routinely has run between 170
and 180 on the road unless it's a really hot day or in a traffic backup and
it might then go 190 - 200 for a short period but drops down quickly with
more airflow through the radiator.  
With the sleeved thermostat, I can also see the thing function.  For about
the first 50 miles, the temp needle will move toward 190 and as soon as it
gets there it will drop back to about 160.  It continues cycling until a
stable temperature is reached, typically 170 - 180.  I guess the modern core
can cool sufficiently to keep the thermostat mostly closed under coolish
ambient conditions.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 11:15 AM
To: Steven Kingsbury
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator

Cool :) FWIW, that's pretty much how my BJ8 behaves with a stock radiator
and Texas Cooler fan. Are you running a stock BN1 fan? 

On a side note, does anyone know why our cars routinely run under the
thermostat set point? For example, I have a 180degF thermostat in my BJ8,
and on not-hot days on the freeway it may run around 160degF. Under warmer
conditions with more of a load it'll hold 180 until stuck in traffic, etc.
then goes up 10-20 degrees. The thermostat should stay closed until reaching
the set point--e.g. 180--then open and maintain that temperature until the
the radiator can no longer, well, radiate all the heat produced by the
engine. Is it possible our engines are being air-cooled enough to stay under
the thermostat set point under benign temp and load conditions? 

Bob 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 13:29:49 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 15:27:43 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running Temps--Was: Re: Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

One factor which I have found makes a surprisingly large difference is the
correct installation of the radiator baffles. I have resolved persistent
overheating problems in 6 cylinder cars by just ensuring that the hot air
from the engine compartment cannot make its way around to the front of the
radiator..
It's worth a try and a lot less expensive than an aluminium radiator.

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 12:47 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Agreed. I am using a (modern) sleeved-type thermostat, have a calibrated
> gauge and have tried several thermostats (I tested a couple on the stove
> and they functioned as expected). Still, my BJ8 engine will run below the
> thermostat set point on a cool day with light load--I would expect the
> coolant temp even under those conditions to rise to nominal, but it
> doesn't. Our BN2 behaves the same way.
>
> The only comparison I can think of is air-cooled aircraft engines, which
> usually have an oil cooler. There is a valve called a
> Vernatherm--essentially a bi-metal strip--that closes off oil flow to the
> oil cooler radiator to allow the engine to warm to operating temperature
> before the cooler is brought 'online.' But, an air-cooled engine can
> dissipate a lot more heat than an Austin lump.
>
> Is it possible the huge chunk of iron in front could be 'self-cooling' to
> a point then, beyond that point, even with wide-open thermostat, cannot
> maintain a set temperature? My guess is that at speed there is sufficient
> airflow to cool the engine--even below the thermostat set point--but once
> stuck in traffic or with a load there isn't enough excess airflow and the
> cooling system's capability is exceeded (as Kees mentioned).
>
> Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
> In general the temperature should be more or less constant under any
> condition, just slightly above the opening temperature of the
> thermostat. If the temperature shows to be lower than the thermostat
> opening temperature the thermostat is at fault or is the wrong type (it
> should be of the sleeved type), assuming the heater is turned off. If
> very cold, with the heater plus heater fan on maximum, the temperature
> could drop below the opening temperature of the thermostat.
> If the temperature increases significantly the cooling capacity is
> insufficient because of blockages/dirt, faulty water pump or the wrong
> radiator capacity.
> Older cars can have insufficient cooling capacity at low speeds/engine
> revs, hence the advise to fit a thermostatically controlled electric fan
> when the car is used in modern traffic.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 18:45:54 2014
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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 20:44:47 -0400
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had my radiator re-cored with a modern core, and my car's temps run
around 180-190 at speed, even climbing the hills on I-89 in NH.

In his Tech Talk book, Norman Nock suggested adding a third blade to our
two-blade fans to move more air a low speeds.   Anyone tried this and seen
much improvement in stop and go driving?

- Tom



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Spidell
> Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 11:15 AM
> To: Steven Kingsbury
> Cc: healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
>
> Cool :) FWIW, that's pretty much how my BJ8 behaves with a stock radiator
> and Texas Cooler fan. Are you running a stock BN1 fan?
>
> On a side note, does anyone know why our cars routinely run under the
> thermostat set point? For example, I have a 180degF thermostat in my BJ8,
> and on not-hot days on the freeway it may run around 160degF. Under warmer
> conditions with more of a load it'll hold 180 until stuck in traffic, etc.
> then goes up 10-20 degrees. The thermostat should stay closed until
> reaching
> the set point--e.g. 180--then open and maintain that temperature until the
> the radiator can no longer, well, radiate all the heat produced by the
> engine. Is it possible our engines are being air-cooled enough to stay
> under
> the thermostat set point under benign temp and load conditions?
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 19:15:50 2014
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To: ah3000me@gmail.com
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 18:16:00 -0700
From: <rd_parker@juno.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

No but it sounds logical.

RDP.
1961 BT7. 
On Tue, 14 Oct 2014 20:44:47 -0400 Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com> writes:
> I had my radiator re-cored with a modern core, and my car's temps 
> run
> around 180-190 at speed, even climbing the hills on I-89 in NH.
> 
> In his Tech Talk book, Norman Nock suggested adding a third blade to 
> our
> two-blade fans to move more air a low speeds.   Anyone tried this 
> and seen
> much improvement in stop and go driving?
> 
> - Tom
> 
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Bob
> > Spidell
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 11:15 AM
> > To: Steven Kingsbury
> > Cc: healeys
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
> >
> > Cool :) FWIW, that's pretty much how my BJ8 behaves with a stock 
> radiator
> > and Texas Cooler fan. Are you running a stock BN1 fan?
> >
> > On a side note, does anyone know why our cars routinely run under 
> the
> > thermostat set point? For example, I have a 180degF thermostat in 
> my BJ8,
> > and on not-hot days on the freeway it may run around 160degF. 
> Under warmer
> > conditions with more of a load it'll hold 180 until stuck in 
> traffic, etc.
> > then goes up 10-20 degrees. The thermostat should stay closed 
> until
> > reaching
> > the set point--e.g. 180--then open and maintain that temperature 
> until the
> > the radiator can no longer, well, radiate all the heat produced by 
> the
> > engine. Is it possible our engines are being air-cooled enough to 
> stay
> > under
> > the thermostat set point under benign temp and load conditions?
> >
> > Bob
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
> _____________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker@juno.com
> 
> 
 

____________________________________________________________
Odd Trick Fights Diabetes
&#34;Unique&#34; Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch Video.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/543dcb14576644b14693bst03vuc
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 14 19:38:10 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <rd_parker@juno.com>
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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 12:41:02 +1100
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
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G'day

I seem to recall that if you lived in what BMC called a tropical area
(Singapore, Caribbean and so on) and you ordered a new six-cylinder
Austin-Healey it came with a tropical radiator fan which consisted of three
double-ended blades for an increased air flow.

The big problem with all production six-cylinder Austin-Healeys was that
from the earliest BN4 through to the last BJ8 they were all fitted with the
same size and capacity radiator. 

So how did BMC engineers deal with the heat generated through an increase in
horsepower from 102bhp to 148bhp? As the power increased so did the pressure
rating of the radiator cap.

Unfortunately once the Austin-Healey was assembled at Abingdon it became
second cousin to the MG and minimal development money was spent on the
marque.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
rd_parker@juno.com
Sent: Wednesday, 15 October 2014 12:16 PM
To: ah3000me@gmail.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator

No but it sounds logical.

RDP.
1961 BT7. 
On Tue, 14 Oct 2014 20:44:47 -0400 Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com> writes:
> I had my radiator re-cored with a modern core, and my car's temps run 
> around 180-190 at speed, even climbing the hills on I-89 in NH.
> 
> In his Tech Talk book, Norman Nock suggested adding a third blade to 
> our
> two-blade fans to move more air a low speeds.   Anyone tried this 
> and seen
> much improvement in stop and go driving?
> 
> - Tom
> 
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Bob
> > Spidell
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 11:15 AM
> > To: Steven Kingsbury
> > Cc: healeys
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
> >
> > Cool :) FWIW, that's pretty much how my BJ8 behaves with a stock
> radiator
> > and Texas Cooler fan. Are you running a stock BN1 fan?
> >
> > On a side note, does anyone know why our cars routinely run under
> the
> > thermostat set point? For example, I have a 180degF thermostat in
> my BJ8,
> > and on not-hot days on the freeway it may run around 160degF. 
> Under warmer
> > conditions with more of a load it'll hold 180 until stuck in
> traffic, etc.
> > then goes up 10-20 degrees. The thermostat should stay closed
> until
> > reaching
> > the set point--e.g. 180--then open and maintain that temperature
> until the
> > the radiator can no longer, well, radiate all the heat produced by
> the
> > engine. Is it possible our engines are being air-cooled enough to
> stay
> > under
> > the thermostat set point under benign temp and load conditions?
> >
> > Bob
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> > donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
> _____________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker@juno.com
> 
> 
 

____________________________________________________________
Odd Trick Fights Diabetes
&#34;Unique&#34; Proven Method To Control Blood Sugar In 3 Weeks. Watch
Video.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/543dcb14576644b14693bst03vuc
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 00:18:09 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 08:18:58 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <6d02f4f2-de34-4de8-bfc7-b67aeb1acc1b@me.com>
 <422511233.9374990.1413299715809.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve, where is the temperature sensor on your car as it surprises me 
that the  temp reading is lower than the opening temp of the thermostat. 
The temp in the tophose/top radiator should be a tad over the opening temp.
Kees Oudesluijs


BJ8Healeys schreef op 14-10-2014 21:18:
> I have a radiator with a modern core in my BJ8.  It is really the only thing
> I've ever found that would keep the temperature down in the cooling system.
> I also have a NOS AC sleeved thermostat (thanks, Kees!) rated at 187 deg. F.
> After the installation of the radiator, my car routinely has run between 170
> and 180 on the road unless it's a really hot day or in a traffic backup and
> it might then go 190 - 200 for a short period but drops down quickly with
> more airflow through the radiator.
> With the sleeved thermostat, I can also see the thing function.  For about
> the first 50 miles, the temp needle will move toward 190 and as soon as it
> gets there it will drop back to about 160.  It continues cycling until a
> stable temperature is reached, typically 170 - 180.  I guess the modern core
> can cool sufficiently to keep the thermostat mostly closed under coolish
> ambient conditions.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Spidell
> Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 11:15 AM
> To: Steven Kingsbury
> Cc: healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
>
> Cool :) FWIW, that's pretty much how my BJ8 behaves with a stock radiator
> and Texas Cooler fan. Are you running a stock BN1 fan?
>
> On a side note, does anyone know why our cars routinely run under the
> thermostat set point? For example, I have a 180degF thermostat in my BJ8,
> and on not-hot days on the freeway it may run around 160degF. Under warmer
> conditions with more of a load it'll hold 180 until stuck in traffic, etc.
> then goes up 10-20 degrees. The thermostat should stay closed until reaching
> the set point--e.g. 180--then open and maintain that temperature until the
> the radiator can no longer, well, radiate all the heat produced by the
> engine. Is it possible our engines are being air-cooled enough to stay under
> the thermostat set point under benign temp and load conditions?
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4765 / Virusdatabase: 4040/8387 - datum van uitgifte: 10/14/14
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 01:06:54 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 15:09:42 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steven -

Glad you had good results, the improvement primarily has to do with the
fact the radiator is new.  Make sure you have a screen on the intake hose
to keep crud out of your ali radiator - ali rads can't be serviced.

Whenever my car starts running hot, I just take the radiator out and have
it rodded / serviced.  Usually does the trick.  Also jet hot coating the
exhaust manifold helps push the heat out the tail pipe rather than keeping
it under the bonnet - particularly useful on very long drives.

Best,

Alan

On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 11:03 PM, Steven Kingsbury <
airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:

> On Wednesday, October 1st I installed an all aluminum radiator in my BN1
> 100.
> On
> Saturday, October 4th I went on a 200 mile plus journey from the valley
> floor
> in
> northern California up to 8500 feet elevation at the summit of Mount
> Lassen and then back into the valley. The temperature in the valley
> was about 95 degrees F and going up in to the mountains, I got stuck
> behind a motor home and on a very twisty, steep, hot and slow road,
> that's where I got my hottest, a little under 200 degrees! The rest of
> the trip I ranged from 150 degrees to 190! I'm not even going to count
> the 120 I got coming down out of the mountains!
> All in all, it's the best thing I've ever done for my car. The
> radiator was made by Wizardo;? out of New York, I got it off of eBay and
> other
> than
> them sending me the wrong radiator to begin with, (which they did
> straighten out), I would highly recommend their work and product. NFI,
> just happy with what it's done to my car. Didn't have to change a
> thing in the car and it bolted right in! Sweet!
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 02:18:19 2014
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 <CAFBXTk+Ki3w+Zm2iZHfsK_sZ1q-Zh-r0JL+oM2w1ucOr2vAQbQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 09:21:00 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm surprised at some of the large variations in temp that people are
reporting. My car gets up to temperature and stays there. It might rise
slightly when stuck in traffic for a prolonged period. It doesn't drop
20-30 degrees during normal driving. That doesn't sound right to me.

Derek

On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 8:09 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Steven -
>
> Glad you had good results, the improvement primarily has to do with the
> fact the radiator is new.  Make sure you have a screen on the intake hose
> to keep crud out of your ali radiator - ali rads can't be serviced.
>
> Whenever my car starts running hot, I just take the radiator out and have
> it rodded / serviced.  Usually does the trick.  Also jet hot coating the
> exhaust manifold helps push the heat out the tail pipe rather than keeping
> it under the bonnet - particularly useful on very long drives.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 11:03 PM, Steven Kingsbury <
> airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:
>
> > On Wednesday, October 1st I installed an all aluminum radiator in my BN1
> > 100.
> > On
> > Saturday, October 4th I went on a 200 mile plus journey from the valley
> > floor
> > in
> > northern California up to 8500 feet elevation at the summit of Mount
> > Lassen and then back into the valley. The temperature in the valley
> > was about 95 degrees F and going up in to the mountains, I got stuck
> > behind a motor home and on a very twisty, steep, hot and slow road,
> > that's where I got my hottest, a little under 200 degrees! The rest of
> > the trip I ranged from 150 degrees to 190! I'm not even going to count
> > the 120 I got coming down out of the mountains!
> > All in all, it's the best thing I've ever done for my car. The
> > radiator was made by Wizardo;? out of New York, I got it off of eBay and
> > other
> > than
> > them sending me the wrong radiator to begin with, (which they did
> > straighten out), I would highly recommend their work and product. NFI,
> > just happy with what it's done to my car. Didn't have to change a
> > thing in the car and it bolted right in! Sweet!
> > Steven Kingsbury
> > BN1 #598
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 02:20:40 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 09:23:35 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running Temps--Was: Re: Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

An aluminium radiator is actually less efficient than a normal one of a
similar design with similar cores. That's just physics.  Weight saving is
its biggest advantage.

Derek

On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 8:27 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> One factor which I have found makes a surprisingly large difference is the
> correct installation of the radiator baffles. I have resolved persistent
> overheating problems in 6 cylinder cars by just ensuring that the hot air
> from the engine compartment cannot make its way around to the front of the
> radiator..
> It's worth a try and a lot less expensive than an aluminium radiator.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 12:47 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Agreed. I am using a (modern) sleeved-type thermostat, have a calibrated
> > gauge and have tried several thermostats (I tested a couple on the stove
> > and they functioned as expected). Still, my BJ8 engine will run below the
> > thermostat set point on a cool day with light load--I would expect the
> > coolant temp even under those conditions to rise to nominal, but it
> > doesn't. Our BN2 behaves the same way.
> >
> > The only comparison I can think of is air-cooled aircraft engines, which
> > usually have an oil cooler. There is a valve called a
> > Vernatherm--essentially a bi-metal strip--that closes off oil flow to the
> > oil cooler radiator to allow the engine to warm to operating temperature
> > before the cooler is brought 'online.' But, an air-cooled engine can
> > dissipate a lot more heat than an Austin lump.
> >
> > Is it possible the huge chunk of iron in front could be 'self-cooling' to
> > a point then, beyond that point, even with wide-open thermostat, cannot
> > maintain a set temperature? My guess is that at speed there is sufficient
> > airflow to cool the engine--even below the thermostat set point--but once
> > stuck in traffic or with a load there isn't enough excess airflow and the
> > cooling system's capability is exceeded (as Kees mentioned).
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> >
> >
> > In general the temperature should be more or less constant under any
> > condition, just slightly above the opening temperature of the
> > thermostat. If the temperature shows to be lower than the thermostat
> > opening temperature the thermostat is at fault or is the wrong type (it
> > should be of the sleeved type), assuming the heater is turned off. If
> > very cold, with the heater plus heater fan on maximum, the temperature
> > could drop below the opening temperature of the thermostat.
> > If the temperature increases significantly the cooling capacity is
> > insufficient because of blockages/dirt, faulty water pump or the wrong
> > radiator capacity.
> > Older cars can have insufficient cooling capacity at low speeds/engine
> > revs, hence the advise to fit a thermostatically controlled electric fan
> > when the car is used in modern traffic.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 03:02:04 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 17:02:32 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Folks -

All of you have lost your collective marbles noodles knowledge (said with
respect).

The 100 has its temp sensor mounted on the tank  of the radiator, not on
the engine block.  This means if the thermostat is shut, then the temp in
the top of the radiator will go down as you are driving because the wind is
cooling a closed system in the radiator.

This is why on the 3000 they moved the temp bulb to under the thermostat,
so it tells you better what engine / head temps are regardless to whether
the thermostat is opened or closed.

Cheers!

Alan

On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 4:21 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm surprised at some of the large variations in temp that people are
> reporting. My car gets up to temperature and stays there. It might rise
> slightly when stuck in traffic for a prolonged period. It doesn't drop
> 20-30 degrees during normal driving. That doesn't sound right to me.
>
> Derek
>
>
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 11:03 PM, Steven Kingsbury <
>> airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:
>>
>> > On Wednesday, October 1st I installed an all aluminum radiator in my BN1
>> > 100.
>> > On
>> > Saturday, October 4th I went on a 200 mile plus journey from the valley
>> > floor
>> > in
>> > northern California up to 8500 feet elevation at the summit of Mount
>> > Lassen and then back into the valley. The temperature in the valley
>> > was about 95 degrees F and going up in to the mountains, I got stuck
>> > behind a motor home and on a very twisty, steep, hot and slow road,
>> > that's where I got my hottest, a little under 200 degrees! The rest of
>> > the trip I ranged from 150 degrees to 190! I'm not even going to count
>> > the 120 I got coming down out of the mountains!
>> > All in all, it's the best thing I've ever done for my car. The
>> > radiator was made by Wizardo;? out of New York, I got it off of eBay and
>> > other
>> > than
>> > them sending me the wrong radiator to begin with, (which they did
>> > straighten out), I would highly recommend their work and product. NFI,
>> > just happy with what it's done to my car. Didn't have to change a
>> > thing in the car and it bolted right in! Sweet!
>> > Steven Kingsbury
>> > BN1 #598
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 03:08:13 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 17:11:07 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Actually, I've found some advantages to the 100 sensor location - it'll
generally tell you if your thermostat is working (you can see the temp jump
all of a sudden when the thermostat opens) and also I've found when it's
seems to be running too cool, it usually means I need to add a bit of
coolant because the bulb is sensing the air temp, not water temp.

On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 5:02 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Folks -
>
> All of you have lost your collective marbles noodles knowledge (said with
> respect).
>
> The 100 has its temp sensor mounted on the tank  of the radiator, not on
> the engine block.  This means if the thermostat is shut, then the temp in
> the top of the radiator will go down as you are driving because the wind is
> cooling a closed system in the radiator.
>
> This is why on the 3000 they moved the temp bulb to under the thermostat,
> so it tells you better what engine / head temps are regardless to whether
> the thermostat is opened or closed.
>
> Cheers!
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 4:21 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm surprised at some of the large variations in temp that people are
>> reporting. My car gets up to temperature and stays there. It might rise
>> slightly when stuck in traffic for a prolonged period. It doesn't drop
>> 20-30 degrees during normal driving. That doesn't sound right to me.
>>
>> Derek
>>
>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 11:03 PM, Steven Kingsbury <
>>> airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> > On Wednesday, October 1st I installed an all aluminum radiator in my
>>> BN1
>>> > 100.
>>> > On
>>> > Saturday, October 4th I went on a 200 mile plus journey from the valley
>>> > floor
>>> > in
>>> > northern California up to 8500 feet elevation at the summit of Mount
>>> > Lassen and then back into the valley. The temperature in the valley
>>> > was about 95 degrees F and going up in to the mountains, I got stuck
>>> > behind a motor home and on a very twisty, steep, hot and slow road,
>>> > that's where I got my hottest, a little under 200 degrees! The rest of
>>> > the trip I ranged from 150 degrees to 190! I'm not even going to count
>>> > the 120 I got coming down out of the mountains!
>>> > All in all, it's the best thing I've ever done for my car. The
>>> > radiator was made by Wizardo;? out of New York, I got it off of eBay
>>> and
>>> > other
>>> > than
>>> > them sending me the wrong radiator to begin with, (which they did
>>> > straighten out), I would highly recommend their work and product. NFI,
>>> > just happy with what it's done to my car. Didn't have to change a
>>> > thing in the car and it bolted right in! Sweet!
>>> > Steven Kingsbury
>>> > BN1 #598
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 12:40:11 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <6d02f4f2-de34-4de8-bfc7-b67aeb1acc1b@me.com>
 <CAFBXTk+Ki3w+Zm2iZHfsK_sZ1q-Zh-r0JL+oM2w1ucOr2vAQbQ@mail.gmail.com>
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 <CAFBXTkJ5K1PGOPvJgEVpGghdgS5N2TV5+=CE-U5-SoeVGpQKgQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There are only two situations where the coolant temperature in the 
engine is lower than the opening temperature of the thermostat:
1- during warming up of the engine
2- when there is a heater core that has so much capacity that it is 
sufficient to overcool the engine when the heater is at full blast on a 
really cold day.

The proper places, in my view, to measure the coolant temp is in the top 
hose/thermostat housing above the thermostat/top of radiator or just 
below the thermostat, where it will also measure the coolant temperature 
during warming up within the engine.
When measured on the head or in the engine block one may expect 
deviations from the real maximum coolant temp.

To keep the coolant level to the top of the filler neck, use a properly 
installed expansion vessel, this will eventually expel all air/vapour 
from the radiator.

Kees Oudesluijs


Alan Seigrist schreef op 15-10-2014 11:11:
> Actually, I've found some advantages to the 100 sensor location - it'll
> generally tell you if your thermostat is working (you can see the temp jump
> all of a sudden when the thermostat opens) and also I've found when it's
> seems to be running too cool, it usually means I need to add a bit of
> coolant because the bulb is sensing the air temp, not water temp.
>
> On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 5:02 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Folks -
>>
>> All of you have lost your collective marbles noodles knowledge (said with
>> respect).
>>
>> The 100 has its temp sensor mounted on the tank  of the radiator, not on
>> the engine block.  This means if the thermostat is shut, then the temp in
>> the top of the radiator will go down as you are driving because the wind is
>> cooling a closed system in the radiator.
>>
>> This is why on the 3000 they moved the temp bulb to under the thermostat,
>> so it tells you better what engine / head temps are regardless to whether
>> the thermostat is opened or closed.
>>
>> Cheers!
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 4:21 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm surprised at some of the large variations in temp that people are
>>> reporting. My car gets up to temperature and stays there. It might rise
>>> slightly when stuck in traffic for a prolonged period. It doesn't drop
>>> 20-30 degrees during normal driving. That doesn't sound right to me.
>>>
>>> Derek
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 11:03 PM, Steven Kingsbury <
>>>> airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, October 1st I installed an all aluminum radiator in my
>>>> BN1
>>>>> 100.
>>>>> On
>>>>> Saturday, October 4th I went on a 200 mile plus journey from the valley
>>>>> floor
>>>>> in
>>>>> northern California up to 8500 feet elevation at the summit of Mount
>>>>> Lassen and then back into the valley. The temperature in the valley
>>>>> was about 95 degrees F and going up in to the mountains, I got stuck
>>>>> behind a motor home and on a very twisty, steep, hot and slow road,
>>>>> that's where I got my hottest, a little under 200 degrees! The rest of
>>>>> the trip I ranged from 150 degrees to 190! I'm not even going to count
>>>>> the 120 I got coming down out of the mountains!
>>>>> All in all, it's the best thing I've ever done for my car. The
>>>>> radiator was made by Wizardo;? out of New York, I got it off of eBay
>>>> and
>>>>> other
>>>>> than
>>>>> them sending me the wrong radiator to begin with, (which they did
>>>>> straighten out), I would highly recommend their work and product. NFI,
>>>>> just happy with what it's done to my car. Didn't have to change a
>>>>> thing in the car and it bolted right in! Sweet!
>>>>> Steven Kingsbury
>>>>> BN1 #598
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
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>
>
> -----
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 14:02:21 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac/oWD1JcobxbQUrTiSAPB4h5K0zIQAAoK5wAAdZ2YA=
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

1) I had my original rad recored and it was more efficient. (Only did it
because the old one was knackered).
2) A sleeved thermostat, per the originals, does help. I was able to get
some, correct temp, from a Morgan man on eBay.
3) I now have a new rad from Ahead4Healeys, here in UK. It's copper but they
claim it to be higher performance than the originals ie it's presumably got
more core(s). (Installed as part of the repairs after that clown backed into
me).
4) The previous rad had been seeping where it had a blanking plug per rads
which had temp sensor in rad. I took out the plug, cleaned the thread, wound
on some ptfe tape and refitted it. (All in the hope that the rad could be
reused and more because I was in a hurry to get car back on road for trip to
Ireland). Anyhow, my efforts or the (maybe a bit) stronger coolant or the
accident had disturbed the solder/braze and the plug leaked big time.

I throw these into the knowledge pool...ie watch those plugs and look out
for sleeved thermostats.
Talking of plugs and pun intended....a quick plug for Ahead4Healeys. They
are most helpful, carry decent stock and will expedite when emergency
didtates.
Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 07:03:01 2014
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To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, healeylist
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 09:02:58 -0400
References: <543D12C7.1040409@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars 100M
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Got a message from Alan last week...he was in Tokyo on vacation to get away
from"the silliness in Hong Kong.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
Sent: b10/b14/b2014 8:17 AM
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars 100M

On an episode I saw last night Wayne inspected and picked-up a red/black 100M.
He mostly got the info correct, but was
suspicious that the car did not have the small 'M' on the grill flash.  I've
read they weren't always installed, and may
have been a 'bonus' for preferred customers, or it could have fallen off at
some time.  At any rate, it was a beautiful
car with only 35K miles and original paint.  They should show the sale in a
later episode; if I miss it maybe someone
could report the sale price.  I'm guessing $200K or better (especially if it
goes to auction).

On another note, anyone heard from Alan Seigrist?  He used to be a regular
poster but haven't heard from him in a while.

Bob

--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 07:08:06 2014
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To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com>, 
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 09:10:41 -0400
References: <6d02f4f2-de34-4de8-bfc7-b67aeb1acc1b@me.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My experience with aluminium radiators has not been good with two failing, one
through cracking in the core and the second as a result of corrosion after 4
years of summer use.
Just sayin'.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Steven Kingsbury" <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
Sent: b10/b14/b2014 11:03 AM
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator

On Wednesday, October 1st I installed an all aluminum radiator in my BN1 100.
On
Saturday, October 4th I went on a 200 mile plus journey from the valley floor
in
northern California up to 8500 feet elevation at the summit of Mount
Lassen and then back into the valley. The temperature in the valley
was about 95 degrees F and going up in to the mountains, I got stuck
behind a motor home and on a very twisty, steep, hot and slow road,
that's where I got my hottest, a little under 200 degrees! The rest of
the trip I ranged from 150 degrees to 190! I'm not even going to count
the 120 I got coming down out of the mountains!
All in all, it's the best thing I've ever done for my car. The
radiator was made by Wizardo;? out of New York, I got it off of eBay and
other
than
them sending me the wrong radiator to begin with, (which they did
straighten out), I would highly recommend their work and product. NFI,
just happy with what it's done to my car. Didn't have to change a
thing in the car and it bolted right in! Sweet!
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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References: <543e712d.88842a0a.2669.ffffa752SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
From: 'bluehealey' <bluehealey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 15:03:29 +0100
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I discovered the hard way that Red coolant dissolves solder. Who knew!!
What are you using Simon?

AlanB - iPhone message.

> On 15 Oct 2014, at 14:02, "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:
>
> 1) I had my original rad recored and it was more efficient. (Only did it
> because the old one was knackered).
> 2) A sleeved thermostat, per the originals, does help. I was able to get
> some, correct temp, from a Morgan man on eBay.
> 3) I now have a new rad from Ahead4Healeys, here in UK. It's copper but
they
> claim it to be higher performance than the originals ie it's presumably got
> more core(s). (Installed as part of the repairs after that clown backed
into
> me).
> 4) The previous rad had been seeping where it had a blanking plug per rads
> which had temp sensor in rad. I took out the plug, cleaned the thread,
wound
> on some ptfe tape and refitted it. (All in the hope that the rad could be
> reused and more because I was in a hurry to get car back on road for trip
to
> Ireland). Anyhow, my efforts or the (maybe a bit) stronger coolant or the
> accident had disturbed the solder/braze and the plug leaked big time.
>
> I throw these into the knowledge pool...ie watch those plugs and look out
> for sleeved thermostats.
> Talking of plugs and pun intended....a quick plug for Ahead4Healeys. They
> are most helpful, carry decent stock and will expedite when emergency
> didtates.
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 10:07:04 -0400
From: Bob <robertlarson@att.net>
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CC: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6d02f4f2-de34-4de8-bfc7-b67aeb1acc1b@me.com>
 <CAFBXTk+Ki3w+Zm2iZHfsK_sZ1q-Zh-r0JL+oM2w1ucOr2vAQbQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAAh8etna-J-GgG=2UC3S65LAdi-77+T38pnap6r9d+ZCOGexnw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, I'm not and that is because nowhere in this discussion has gauge accuracy 
come up.
I'd suspect that is a big contributor to the spread in readings.

If someone makes a change and all other conditions are the same the difference 
may be
pretty close to being correct but the absolute value of the temperature reading 
is still suspect
in my view.

Bob



On 10/15/2014 4:21 AM, Derek Job wrote:
> I'm surprised at some of the large variations in temp that people are
> reporting. My car gets up to temperature and stays there. It might rise
> slightly when stuck in traffic for a prolonged period. It doesn't drop
> 20-30 degrees during normal driving. That doesn't sound right to me.
>
> Derek
>
> On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 8:09 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Steven -
>>
>> Glad you had good results, the improvement primarily has to do with the
>> fact the radiator is new.  Make sure you have a screen on the intake hose
>> to keep crud out of your ali radiator - ali rads can't be serviced.
>>
>> Whenever my car starts running hot, I just take the radiator out and have
>> it rodded / serviced.  Usually does the trick.  Also jet hot coating the
>> exhaust manifold helps push the heat out the tail pipe rather than keeping
>> it under the bonnet - particularly useful on very long drives.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 11:03 PM, Steven Kingsbury <
>> airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On Wednesday, October 1st I installed an all aluminum radiator in my BN1
>>> 100.
>>> On
>>> Saturday, October 4th I went on a 200 mile plus journey from the valley
>>> floor
>>> in
>>> northern California up to 8500 feet elevation at the summit of Mount
>>> Lassen and then back into the valley. The temperature in the valley
>>> was about 95 degrees F and going up in to the mountains, I got stuck
>>> behind a motor home and on a very twisty, steep, hot and slow road,
>>> that's where I got my hottest, a little under 200 degrees! The rest of
>>> the trip I ranged from 150 degrees to 190! I'm not even going to count
>>> the 120 I got coming down out of the mountains!
>>> All in all, it's the best thing I've ever done for my car. The
>>> radiator was made by Wizardo;? out of New York, I got it off of eBay and
>>> other
>>> than
>>> them sending me the wrong radiator to begin with, (which they did
>>> straighten out), I would highly recommend their work and product. NFI,
>>> just happy with what it's done to my car. Didn't have to change a
>>> thing in the car and it bolted right in! Sweet!
>>> Steven Kingsbury
>>> BN1 #598
>>> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 07:34:12 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My gauge was recently refurbished and calibrated by West Valley Instruments (the former 'Mo' in MoMa), so I'm reasonably 
confident it's accurate.   My temp will stay below the thermostat set point (180degF) on a cool day.  Coasting down a 
hill, it often gets below 160.  Driving along steady on a mild day it will stay at 180 (expected), then exceed that on a 
hot day pulling a load or sitting in traffic.  My heater is usually off--but the valve on the block is open 
year-round--and I've used it as an 'auxiliary radiator' when it gets close to 212deg.

So, assuming the gauge is correct, why is my temp often below 180 (Kees?).  The only explanation I can think of is that 
the engine is sufficiently air-cooled in benign conditions to keep the thermostat closed.  I've tried several 
thermostats with same result, and have tested a couple on the stove in hot water. Apparently, others are experiencing 
the same phenomenon.

Bob


On 10/15/2014 7:07 AM, Bob wrote:
> Well, I'm not and that is because nowhere in this discussion has gauge accuracy come up.
> I'd suspect that is a big contributor to the spread in readings.
>
> If someone makes a change and all other conditions are the same the difference may be
> pretty close to being correct but the absolute value of the temperature reading is still suspect
> in my view.
>
> Bob
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 08:39:51 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 07:42:38 -0700
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6d02f4f2-de34-4de8-bfc7-b67aeb1acc1b@me.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know how accurate my gauge is. I run no thermostat in my 100 Six and
have the sleave installed to run that way. Temp sensor in head.

Temp stays under 180 most San Diego days (70-80 degrees lately). usually is
about 160-170. It doesn't act like it's any hotter. No excess coolant spilling
out. Seems just fine.

Rick



On Oct 15, 2014, at 7:34 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:

> My gauge was recently refurbished and calibrated by West Valley Instruments
(the former 'Mo' in MoMa), so I'm reasonably confident it's accurate.   My
temp will stay below the thermostat set point (180degF) on a cool day.
Coasting down a hill, it often gets below 160.  Driving along steady on a mild
day it will stay at 180 (expected), then exceed that on a hot day pulling a
load or sitting in traffic.  My heater is usually off--but the valve on the
block is open year-round--and I've used it as an 'auxiliary radiator' when it
gets close to 212deg.
>
> So, assuming the gauge is correct, why is my temp often below 180 (Kees?).
The only explanation I can think of is that the engine is sufficiently
air-cooled in benign conditions to keep the thermostat closed.  I've tried
several thermostats with same result, and have tested a couple on the stove in
hot water. Apparently, others are experiencing the same phenomenon.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 10/15/2014 7:07 AM, Bob wrote:
>> Well, I'm not and that is because nowhere in this discussion has gauge
accuracy come up.
>> I'd suspect that is a big contributor to the spread in readings.
>>
>> If someone makes a change and all other conditions are the same the
difference may be
>> pretty close to being correct but the absolute value of the temperature
reading is still suspect
>> in my view.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Also, on a warm day when I shut down the temp will go to exactly 212degF (100degC), which gives me more confidence the 
gauge is correct (what my dad calls 'latent heat' causes the coolant to go the boiling point).

Bob


On 10/15/2014 7:34 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> My gauge was recently refurbished and calibrated by West Valley Instruments (the former 'Mo' in MoMa), so I'm 
> reasonably confident it's accurate.   My temp will stay below the thermostat set point (180degF) on a cool day.  
> Coasting down a hill, it often gets below 160.  Driving along steady on a mild day it will stay at 180 (expected), 
> then exceed that on a hot day pulling a load or sitting in traffic.  My heater is usually off--but the valve on the 
> block is open year-round--and I've used it as an 'auxiliary radiator' when it gets close to 212deg.
>
> So, assuming the gauge is correct, why is my temp often below 180 (Kees?).  The only explanation I can think of is 
> that the engine is sufficiently air-cooled in benign conditions to keep the thermostat closed.  I've tried several 
> thermostats with same result, and have tested a couple on the stove in hot water. Apparently, others are experiencing 
> the same phenomenon.
>
> Bob
>
>

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 08:49:06 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 16:51:53 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <543e712d.88842a0a.2669.ffffa752SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
 <E5E7DF52-06DD-4BCC-9545-0ADEB647E880@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Red/purple coolant should never be used in older engines. I am not sure 
where the line is but I expect around 2000. This type of coolant may 
damage older type gaskets, seals, silicon sealant and silicon 
radiator/coolant hoses. On classic cars always use the blue/green stuff.
When replacing the coolant rinse thoroughly first as not to mix the two 
types.
Kees Oudesluijs


'bluehealey' schreef op 15-10-2014 16:03:
> I discovered the hard way that Red coolant dissolves solder. Who knew!!
> What are you using Simon?
>
> AlanB - iPhone message.
>
>> On 15 Oct 2014, at 14:02, "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
> wrote:
>> 1) I had my original rad recored and it was more efficient. (Only did it
>> because the old one was knackered).
>> 2) A sleeved thermostat, per the originals, does help. I was able to get
>> some, correct temp, from a Morgan man on eBay.
>> 3) I now have a new rad from Ahead4Healeys, here in UK. It's copper but
> they
>> claim it to be higher performance than the originals ie it's presumably got
>> more core(s). (Installed as part of the repairs after that clown backed
> into
>> me).
>> 4) The previous rad had been seeping where it had a blanking plug per rads
>> which had temp sensor in rad. I took out the plug, cleaned the thread,
> wound
>> on some ptfe tape and refitted it. (All in the hope that the rad could be
>> reused and more because I was in a hurry to get car back on road for trip
> to
>> Ireland). Anyhow, my efforts or the (maybe a bit) stronger coolant or the
>> accident had disturbed the solder/braze and the plug leaked big time.
>>
>> I throw these into the knowledge pool...ie watch those plugs and look out
>> for sleeved thermostats.
>> Talking of plugs and pun intended....a quick plug for Ahead4Healeys. They
>> are most helpful, carry decent stock and will expedite when emergency
>> didtates.
>> Simon
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 09:08:00 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'bluehealey'" <bluehealey@gmail.com>
References: <543e712d.88842a0a.2669.ffffa752SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
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Content-Language: en-gb
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I was using blue. Was working under the impression that new/stronger coolant
(of any colour) would dissolve gunk and that gunk is sometimes all that
stands between us and disaster!
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: 'bluehealey' [mailto:bluehealey@gmail.com] 
Sent: 15 October 2014 15:03
To: Simon Lachlan
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator

I discovered the hard way that Red coolant dissolves solder. Who knew!!
What are you using Simon?

AlanB - iPhone message.

> On 15 Oct 2014, at 14:02, "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:
> 
> 1) I had my original rad recored and it was more efficient. (Only did 
> it because the old one was knackered).
> 2) A sleeved thermostat, per the originals, does help. I was able to 
> get some, correct temp, from a Morgan man on eBay.
> 3) I now have a new rad from Ahead4Healeys, here in UK. It's copper 
> but they claim it to be higher performance than the originals ie it's 
> presumably got more core(s). (Installed as part of the repairs after 
> that clown backed into me).
> 4) The previous rad had been seeping where it had a blanking plug per 
> rads which had temp sensor in rad. I took out the plug, cleaned the 
> thread, wound on some ptfe tape and refitted it. (All in the hope that 
> the rad could be reused and more because I was in a hurry to get car 
> back on road for trip to Ireland). Anyhow, my efforts or the (maybe a 
> bit) stronger coolant or the accident had disturbed the solder/braze and
the plug leaked big time.
> 
> I throw these into the knowledge pool...ie watch those plugs and look 
> out for sleeved thermostats.
> Talking of plugs and pun intended....a quick plug for Ahead4Healeys. 
> They are most helpful, carry decent stock and will expedite when 
> emergency didtates.
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 10:06:30 2014
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From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net>
To: <goldengt@cal.net>, "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <463264688.14043.1413296327580.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 09:09:12 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you.
I was also wondering what sensors you used, and if you used/what type of 
signal conditioning .. ??
The ones I am looking at give a 5V signal out after some electronics.
rg

-----Original Message----- 
From: goldengt@cal.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 7:18 AM
To: Roger Grace
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning

Roger,
I have two sensors and a switch. I can send you a wiring diagram if you 
wish. The switch is from the hardware store. Double throw double pole, I 
think. It has three positions. I used a underdash 2 gage panel and made a 
blanking plate to put the switch in the 2nd hole.
Ken

----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace@telus.net>
To: goldengt@cal.net, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 9:59:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning

This is very interesting to me, as now that have converted my '67 BJ8 to -ve
ground, one of my Winter projects is to install a pair of Bosch wideband O2
sensors.
So would really like to hear of your experiences when you did this, and what
sensors and monitoring equipment you are using ? Assume that you have
installed 2 sensors and have 2 monitors or do you switch ? How difficult was
it to install the bung for mounting the sensors ? Innovate are supposedly
coming out with a new model where you can monitor data on your phone.
As you have reported, this really does give a true indication of the SU
tuning at WOT and under load and cruising conditions; when all is said and
done the usual SU tuning
is done near idle and relies on the needle profile and springs etc. being
correct
for your engine, fuel, altitude and how you drive.
I do agree with "Blue Healy"  that what you have reported seems to point to
some fuel starvation at WOT -  SU and AH surely did not get the profile sooo
wrong.
Any input on this topic much appreciated.
rg

-----Original Message----- 
From: goldengt@cal.net
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2014 7:55 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning

I have had my three wire O2sensors and AirFuel meter for quite a while but
now thought I have the time to do something about the readings.
I have a mostly stock BJ8 with Kirk headers, 10%ethanol. With stock needles,
I cruise one meter segment LED rich at sea level and at 2000 feet, the next
richer meter segment is flickering. Not so bad, I guess. The faster I go,
the richer I get in a gradual manner. However, when I climb a hill during
the cruise at around 70mph, the meter goes dead lean (one LED from zero). It
usually shows completely lean at hard acceleration also.
40mph cruise gives the same one LED rich as at 70.
So should I get some weaker springs first or try for a needle that tapers to
rich faster after the cruise?
The web stuff I see says to try the needles.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 10:52:21 2014
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To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 16:55:02 +0000 (GMT)
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,
I am using a multi-blade fan that I got from David Nock. It works really well
and I am also going to be changing the thermostat very soon as I haven't done
that as of yet and I will see how that affects the whole situation. My car has
run hot from when I got it almost ten years ago now and I kept to original
radiator just in case some day I might make the car more than a driver. But
she's just too much fun to drive not to give her the best chance of staying
cool and going down the road.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598

On Oct 14, 2014, at 08:15 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Cool :)   FWIW, that's pretty much how my BJ8 behaves with a stock radiator
and Texas Cooler fan.  Are you running a stock BN1 fan?
>
> On a side note, does anyone know why our cars routinely run under the
thermostat set point?  For example, I have a 180degF thermostat in my BJ8, and
on not-hot days on the freeway it may run around 160degF.  Under warmer
conditions with more of a load it'll hold 180 until stuck in traffic, etc.
then goes up 10-20 degrees.  The thermostat should stay closed until reaching
the set point--e.g. 180--then open and maintain that temperature until the the
radiator can no longer, well, radiate all the heat produced by the engine.  Is
it possible our engines are being air-cooled enough to stay under the
thermostat set point under benign temp and load conditions?
>
> Bob
>
> o;?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 10:55:45 2014
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To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 16:58:23 +0000 (GMT)
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Kees,
The temp sensor is in the radiator, top, passenger side. I'm pretty sure my
thermostat is not functioning correctly and a new one is on order. As soon as
I have it installed and we get some more hot weather, I'll report back on my
findings of driving up hill in the heat.
Steveno;?

On Oct 14, 2014, at 11:21 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Steve, where is the temperature sensor on your car as it surprises me
> that the temp reading is lower than the opening temp of the thermostat.
> The temp in the tophose/top radiator should be a tad over the opening temp.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> BJ8Healeys schreef op 14-10-2014 21:18:
>        > I have a radiator with a modern core in my BJ8. It is really the
only thing
>        > I've ever found that would keep the temperature down in the cooling
system.
>        > I also have a NOS AC sleeved thermostat (thanks, Kees!) rated at
187 deg. F.
>        > After the installation of the radiator, my car routinely has run
between 170
>        > and 180 on the road unless it's a really hot day or in a traffic
backup and
>        > it might then go 190 - 200 for a short period but drops down
quickly with
>        > more airflow through the radiator.
>        > With the sleeved thermostat, I can also see the thing function. For
about
>        > the first 50 miles, the temp needle will move toward 190 and as
soon as it
>        > gets there it will drop back to about 160. It continues cycling
until a
>        > stable temperature is reached, typically 170 - 180. I guess the
modern core
>        > can cool sufficiently to keep the thermostat mostly closed under
coolish
>        > ambient conditions.
>        >
>        > Steve Byers
>        > HBJ8L/36666
>        > BJ8 Registry
>        > AHCA Delegate at Large
>        > Havelock, NC USA
>        >
>        > -----Original Message-----
>        > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bob
>        > Spidell
>        > Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 11:15 AM
>        > To: Steven Kingsbury
>        > Cc: healeys
>        > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
>        >
>        > Cool :) FWIW, that's pretty much how my BJ8 behaves with a stock
radiator
>        > and Texas Cooler fan. Are you running a stock BN1 fan?
>        >
>        > On a side note, does anyone know why our cars routinely run under
the
>        > thermostat set point? For example, I have a 180degF thermostat in
my BJ8,
>        > and on not-hot days on the freeway it may run around 160degF. Under
warmer
>        > conditions with more of a load it'll hold 180 until stuck in
traffic, etc.
>        > then goes up 10-20 degrees. The thermostat should stay closed until
reaching
>        > the set point--e.g. 180--then open and maintain that temperature
until the
>        > the radiator can no longer, well, radiate all the heat produced by
the
>        > engine. Is it possible our engines are being air-cooled enough to
stay under
>        > the thermostat set point under benign temp and load conditions?
>        >
>        > Bob
>        > _______________________________________________
>        > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>        > Suggested annual donation $12.75
>        > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>        > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>        >
>        > Healeys@autox.team.net
>        > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>        >
>        > Unsubscribe/Manage:
coudesluijs@chello.nl'>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudeslu
ijs@chello.nl
>        >
>        >
>        >
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>        > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
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>        > Versie: 2014.0.4765 / Virusdatabase: 4040/8387 - datum van
uitgifte: 10/14/14
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <6d02f4f2-de34-4de8-bfc7-b67aeb1acc1b@me.com>
 <CAFBXTk+Ki3w+Zm2iZHfsK_sZ1q-Zh-r0JL+oM2w1ucOr2vAQbQ@mail.gmail.com>
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 <543E7F88.4010101@att.net> <543E85E4.5020800@comcast.net>
 <543E8926.8080603@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

When a car is coasting down a long slope it does not burn much 
fuel/generates much heat. Certainly not enough to keep up the 
temperature so after a while the whole system/engine starts to cool down 
as the heat dissipated to the environment is more than the heat 
generated from combustion.
Kees Oudesluijs


Bob Spidell schreef op 15-10-2014 16:48:
> Also, on a warm day when I shut down the temp will go to exactly 
> 212degF (100degC), which gives me more confidence the gauge is correct 
> (what my dad calls 'latent heat' causes the coolant to go the boiling 
> point).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 10/15/2014 7:34 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> My gauge was recently refurbished and calibrated by West Valley 
>> Instruments (the former 'Mo' in MoMa), so I'm reasonably confident 
>> it's accurate.   My temp will stay below the thermostat set point 
>> (180degF) on a cool day. Coasting down a hill, it often gets below 
>> 160.  Driving along steady on a mild day it will stay at 180 
>> (expected), then exceed that on a hot day pulling a load or sitting 
>> in traffic.  My heater is usually off--but the valve on the block is 
>> open year-round--and I've used it as an 'auxiliary radiator' when it 
>> gets close to 212deg.
>>
>> So, assuming the gauge is correct, why is my temp often below 180 
>> (Kees?).  The only explanation I can think of is that the engine is 
>> sufficiently air-cooled in benign conditions to keep the thermostat 
>> closed.  I've tried several thermostats with same result, and have 
>> tested a couple on the stove in hot water. Apparently, others are 
>> experiencing the same phenomenon.
>>
>> Bob
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 13:09:26 2014
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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 21:12:04 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com>
References: <ec429c71-db69-4faf-8a73-6a6a1e356aef@me.com>
 <543EA9F9.8030601@chello.nl>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
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Steven,
You can check the thermostat very simply by immersing it in a pan of 
water and slowly heat up on the gas/electric stove. Let a mercury 
thermometer (1000C +) dangle in the water without it touching the bottom 
of the pan. Just note at which temperature the thermostat starts to open.
Cheers,
Kees


Steven Kingsbury schreef op 15-10-2014 18:58:
Kees,
The temp sensor is in the radiator, top, passenger side. I'm pretty sure 
my thermostat is not functioning correctly and a new one is on order. As 
soon as I have it installed and we get some more hot weather, I'll 
report back on my findings of driving up hill in the heat.
Steven

On Oct 14, 2014, at 11:21 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

Steve, where is the temperature sensor on your car as it surprises me
that the temp reading is lower than the opening temp of the thermostat.
The temp in the tophose/top radiator should be a tad over the opening temp.
Kees Oudesluijs
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 14:32:58 2014
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my bj8 has a 3 core high efficiency radiator and a $4 stant 190 degree thermostat.  when i start up it smoothly increases to about 200 then drops down to about 180 as the thermostat opens then pegs at 190 where it stays unless i have a long light on a hot day or do a high speed drive where it might get up to 200 or so.  i recently installed the baffles for the radiator which has never been on this car since i have owned it.  it made no difference in the temp.  no idea why as i have always heard that it was important to do this.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 15 22:37:29 2014
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 21:40:01 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/o+z3Fc1rFqaS8STOhuIw1gOw0dg==
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
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Peter Roses and I have been using the K&N meters for a couple of years.
We're big fans of this setup.

 

The square meter is the least expensive.

 

Save some money by buying the single-wire O2 sensors and mounting bungs from
an auto parts store.

 

I've noticed the leaning on acceleration (one carb only) and abated it by
using heavier dashpot oil. It's easy to experiment with dashpot oil and
springs with the meter.

 

 

--

Steve Gerow

BN6 morphed into a Test Bed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 02:05:23 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 19:02:10 +1100
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Subject: [Healeys] GPS Machine
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G'day

 

A few years back a few folks were very helpful before I bought my first GPS.

 

Now I am thinking of my second one, but have decided that I want one with an
altimeter as well as a compass.

 

My current machine is a Tom Tom which I like and managed to fit it quite
successfully to my positive earthed Austin-Healey.

 

Does anyone know?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 03:06:22 2014
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References: <015d01cfe917$7e464dd0$7ad2e970$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 17:03:44 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] GPS Machine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My view is that Tom Tom still has the best in standard method for giving
instructions, followed by Garmin.  There are others but trust me they all
suck.

If you know how to take instructions with the Tom Tom, stick with them, and
just get one of their units that have all what you want.

GARMIN is starting to sell HUD units that communicate with your phone,
however, but I think that's just a bit gadgety at this time.

Cheers,

Alan

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 4:02 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> A few years back a few folks were very helpful before I bought my first
> GPS.
>
>
>
> Now I am thinking of my second one, but have decided that I want one with
> an
> altimeter as well as a compass.
>
>
>
> My current machine is a Tom Tom which I like and managed to fit it quite
> successfully to my positive earthed Austin-Healey.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 03:50:27 2014
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 <CAFBXTk+M670kghE7UTOZDUVvwttH7-Qpe7w9v-YPvzojezc0og@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 10:52:15 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] GPS Machine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have owned Tom Tom and Garmin. Here in the UK and Europe I found Tom Tom
to be much better. The maps are better, the routes were better and the
display is better.

Derek

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
wrote:

> My view is that Tom Tom still has the best in standard method for giving
> instructions, followed by Garmin.  There are others but trust me they all
> suck.
>
> If you know how to take instructions with the Tom Tom, stick with them, and
> just get one of their units that have all what you want.
>
> GARMIN is starting to sell HUD units that communicate with your phone,
> however, but I think that's just a bit gadgety at this time.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 4:02 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
> p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> > G'day
> >
> >
> >
> > A few years back a few folks were very helpful before I bought my first
> > GPS.
> >
> >
> >
> > Now I am thinking of my second one, but have decided that I want one with
> > an
> > altimeter as well as a compass.
> >
> >
> >
> > My current machine is a Tom Tom which I like and managed to fit it quite
> > successfully to my positive earthed Austin-Healey.
> >
> >
> >
> > Does anyone know?
> >
> >
> >
> > Hoo Roo
> >
> >
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
> >
> > Blue Mountains, Australia
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 03:51:26 2014
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 <CAFBXTk+M670kghE7UTOZDUVvwttH7-Qpe7w9v-YPvzojezc0og@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAAh8et=sWhmxQV7fCmMTAmU83Cmk35J51O-2ABJFo7kGLEKjdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 17:54:21 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] GPS Machine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Agreed. Tom Tom is just that much better in Asia too.  I think Garmin is
good for the US, but Tom Tom is better everywhere else.

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 5:52 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have owned Tom Tom and Garmin. Here in the UK and Europe I found Tom Tom
> to be much better. The maps are better, the routes were better and the
> display is better.
>
> Derek
>
> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> My view is that Tom Tom still has the best in standard method for giving
>> instructions, followed by Garmin.  There are others but trust me they all
>> suck.
>>
>> If you know how to take instructions with the Tom Tom, stick with them,
>> and
>> just get one of their units that have all what you want.
>>
>> GARMIN is starting to sell HUD units that communicate with your phone,
>> however, but I think that's just a bit gadgety at this time.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 4:02 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
>> p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>>
>> > G'day
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > A few years back a few folks were very helpful before I bought my first
>> > GPS.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Now I am thinking of my second one, but have decided that I want one
>> with
>> > an
>> > altimeter as well as a compass.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > My current machine is a Tom Tom which I like and managed to fit it quite
>> > successfully to my positive earthed Austin-Healey.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Does anyone know?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Hoo Roo
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Patrick Quinn
>> >
>> > Blue Mountains, Australia
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >
>> > Healeys@autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 03:56:45 2014
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References: <015d01cfe917$7e464dd0$7ad2e970$@tpg.com.au>
 <CAFBXTk+M670kghE7UTOZDUVvwttH7-Qpe7w9v-YPvzojezc0og@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 10:59:38 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] GPS Machine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

...forgot to add that Tom Tom for about B#120 is also much better than the
satnav in my Jaguar XF and is far better than the BMW and Audi versions as
well. But then they 'only' cost about B#1,800 as an option.

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:54 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Agreed. Tom Tom is just that much better in Asia too.  I think Garmin is
> good for the US, but Tom Tom is better everywhere else.
>
> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 5:52 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I have owned Tom Tom and Garmin. Here in the UK and Europe I found Tom
>> Tom to be much better. The maps are better, the routes were better and the
>> display is better.
>>
>> Derek
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> My view is that Tom Tom still has the best in standard method for giving
>>> instructions, followed by Garmin.  There are others but trust me they all
>>> suck.
>>>
>>> If you know how to take instructions with the Tom Tom, stick with them,
>>> and
>>> just get one of their units that have all what you want.
>>>
>>> GARMIN is starting to sell HUD units that communicate with your phone,
>>> however, but I think that's just a bit gadgety at this time.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 4:02 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
>>> p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>>>
>>> > G'day
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > A few years back a few folks were very helpful before I bought my first
>>> > GPS.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Now I am thinking of my second one, but have decided that I want one
>>> with
>>> > an
>>> > altimeter as well as a compass.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > My current machine is a Tom Tom which I like and managed to fit it
>>> quite
>>> > successfully to my positive earthed Austin-Healey.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Does anyone know?
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Hoo Roo
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > Patrick Quinn
>>> >
>>> > Blue Mountains, Australia
>>> > _______________________________________________
>>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> >
>>> > Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> >
>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 05:39:22 2014
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 13:42:01 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <015d01cfe917$7e464dd0$7ad2e970$@tpg.com.au>
 <CAFBXTk+M670kghE7UTOZDUVvwttH7-Qpe7w9v-YPvzojezc0og@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] GPS Machine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

TomTom and Garmin are the best. The display and instructions are best on 
the TomTom, maps and speed can be better on the Garmin.
In the past I have done some consumer tests on sat navs and TomTom 
always came out best followed closely by Garmin.
For both counts that you are generally best off with the simpler and 
cheaper devices as the expensive ones have so many possibilities that 
using them becomes very complex.
These devises are also far better than the very expensive integrated 
systems. For one these are usually in the wrong spot, low down in the 
dash, the TomTom and Garmin can be placed right in the line of your 
vision, and updates cost a bloody fortune while updates for the TomTom 
and Garmin are free for as long as you have it.

Kees Oudesluijs


Derek Job schreef op 16-10-2014 11:59:
> ...forgot to add that Tom Tom for about B#120 is also much better than the
> satnav in my Jaguar XF and is far better than the BMW and Audi versions as
> well. But then they 'only' cost about B#1,800 as an option.
>
> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:54 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Agreed. Tom Tom is just that much better in Asia too.  I think Garmin is
>> good for the US, but Tom Tom is better everywhere else.
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 5:52 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I have owned Tom Tom and Garmin. Here in the UK and Europe I found Tom
>>> Tom to be much better. The maps are better, the routes were better and the
>>> display is better.
>>>
>>> Derek
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:03 AM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> My view is that Tom Tom still has the best in standard method for giving
>>>> instructions, followed by Garmin.  There are others but trust me they all
>>>> suck.
>>>>
>>>> If you know how to take instructions with the Tom Tom, stick with them,
>>>> and
>>>> just get one of their units that have all what you want.
>>>>
>>>> GARMIN is starting to sell HUD units that communicate with your phone,
>>>> however, but I think that's just a bit gadgety at this time.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 4:02 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
>>>> p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> G'day
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> A few years back a few folks were very helpful before I bought my first
>>>>> GPS.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Now I am thinking of my second one, but have decided that I want one
>>>> with
>>>>> an
>>>>> altimeter as well as a compass.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> My current machine is a Tom Tom which I like and managed to fit it
>>>> quite
>>>>> successfully to my positive earthed Austin-Healey.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Does anyone know?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Hoo Roo
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Patrick Quinn
>>>>>
>>>>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>>
>>>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>>
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>
>>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4765 / Virusdatabase: 4040/8397 - datum van uitgifte: 10/16/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 05:50:46 2014
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From: "Bill" <wkollar@nycap.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000001cfe8fb$430fad90$c92f08b0$@com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 07:48:30 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Somewhere on a planet deep in the galaxy a long, long time ago, mid 1960's, 
still in high school and having relatively good hearing, I was the proud 
owner of a very tired 9 year old 1954, 100-4.  I spent a lot of time 
tinkering with my baby.  One of the fun things things to do was adjusting 
the SU's.  Having little to no extra spending money in those days, I always 
made use of the tube and listen method to do the carb adjustments.  I'm sure 
by todays standards with O2 sensors,  meters and the like this method and 
the results would be considered to be crude at best.  However the car always 
ran up to my expectations and I had some great times driving it.  Since then 
I've had more than a few vehicles to drive and some have even been equipped 
with the latest in fuel economy visual driving gauges or aids, more than 
likely just a plain old o;?vacuum gauges, including my 2014 RAM.  I have, 
after much thought decided that they are all rubbish and not worth the 
bother.

Short story, tune it good enough to pass any inspection requirements and run 
down the road and enjoy it.

Mine sits in the barn in a sorry state of disassembly.  To be enjoyed by 
memory only.  I had many plans for it but they never came to fruition.  Oh! 
but, back in the day,  long rides in the country,  prom dates,  weddings, 
rides to the race track and just trips to get an ice cream cone or burger. 
What Fun!



-----Original Message----- 
From: Steve Gerow
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 12:40 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning

Peter Roses and I have been using the K&N meters for a couple of years.
We're big fans of this setup.



The square meter is the least expensive.



Save some money by buying the single-wire O2 sensors and mounting bungs from
an auto parts store.



I've noticed the leaning on acceleration (one carb only) and abated it by
using heavier dashpot oil. It's easy to experiment with dashpot oil and
springs with the meter.





--

Steve Gerow

BN6 morphed into a Test Bed
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wkollar@nycap.rr.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 05:52:58 2014
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 04:55:41 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
References: <000001cfe8fb$430fad90$c92f08b0$@com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anybody ever fit these to a positive ground car?

Bob


On 10/15/2014 9:40 PM, Steve Gerow wrote:
> Peter Roses and I have been using the K&N meters for a couple of years.
> We're big fans of this setup.
>
>   
>
> The square meter is the least expensive.
>
>   
>
> Save some money by buying the single-wire O2 sensors and mounting bungs from
> an auto parts store.
>
>   
>
> I've noticed the leaning on acceleration (one carb only) and abated it by
> using heavier dashpot oil. It's easy to experiment with dashpot oil and
> springs with the meter.
>
>   
>
>   
>
> --
>
> Steve Gerow
>
> BN6 morphed into a Test Bed
> _______________________________________________
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 06:13:56 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
References: <015d01cfe917$7e464dd0$7ad2e970$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 13:16:40 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac/pFxrkkGYlu0vRRfyP0bFU/oCYxAAIzl5g
Content-Language: en-gb
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] GPS Machine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a Garmin. Seems to me that it's maps are fine but it's pronunciation
is awful. It is so bad that, by the time you've worked out what it's trying
to say, you've gone through the intersection none the wiser. It was bad in
Northern Ireland the other day, where they speak English. In France, its
rendering of French place names was truly execrable. Try going round the
Paris Peripherique with my Garmin. Awful.
Simon
-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick &
Caroline Quinn
Sent: 16 October 2014 09:02
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] GPS Machine

G'day

 

A few years back a few folks were very helpful before I bought my first GPS.

 

Now I am thinking of my second one, but have decided that I want one with an
altimeter as well as a compass.

 

My current machine is a Tom Tom which I like and managed to fit it quite
successfully to my positive earthed Austin-Healey.

 

Does anyone know?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 06:43:04 2014
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 08:45:48 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
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I would expect the coolant boiling point to be above 212 F due to the
increased pressure from the radiator cap & also the coolant being a mix of
water & anti freeze.
This seems to indicate that your gage is inaccurate or
the coolant is not actually boiling, but then you would not expect it to rise
to exactly 212 every time.
Gary Hodson 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From:
Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: robertlarson <robertlarson@att.net>
Cc:
Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 15, 2014 1:29 pm
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Aluminum Radiator


Also, on a warm day when I shut down the temp
will go to exactly 212degF 
(100degC), which gives me more confidence the
gauge is correct (what my dad calls 'latent heat' causes the coolant to go the
boiling point).

Bob
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 06:54:34 2014
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 05:57:26 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: warthodson@aol.com, robertlarson@att.net
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It doesn't boil, just goes to 212 then gradually cools.  Yes, with a 7psi cap boiling would be a few degrees higher 
(forget the exact formula).  Also, doesn't always go to 212, only when it's a warm day and the engine is running nominal 
temp (180) or better.

This seems intuitively correct, but I can't explain it.  It seems the 'latent heat' will increase the temps, but only to 
a point (no additional heat is added since combustion has ceased).  Any thermodynamicists out there who can explain this?

Bob



On 10/16/2014 5:45 AM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:
> I would expect the coolant boiling point to be above 212 F due to the increased pressure from the radiator cap & also 
> the coolant being a mix of water & anti freeze.
> This seems to indicate that your gage is inaccurate or the coolant is not actually boiling, but then you would not 
> expect it to rise to exactly 212 every time.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> Also, on a warm day when I shut down the temp will go to exactly 212degF
> (100degC), which gives me more confidence the
> gauge is correct (what my dad calls 'latent heat' causes the coolant to go the
> boiling point).
>
> Bob
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 07:06:13 2014
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References: <015d01cfe917$7e464dd0$7ad2e970$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 06:06:19 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] GPS Machine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My smartphone has supplanted my GPS, because of the very apps you describe.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
On Oct 16, 2014 1:02 AM, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> A few years back a few folks were very helpful before I bought my first
> GPS.
>
>
>
> Now I am thinking of my second one, but have decided that I want one with
> an
> altimeter as well as a compass.
>
>
>
> My current machine is a Tom Tom which I like and managed to fit it quite
> successfully to my positive earthed Austin-Healey.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 07:22:00 2014
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 06:24:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: Steve Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Single wire O2 didn't work for me as it didn't get hot enough for a steady signal. I needed to use the 3 wire.
Ken Freese

----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 9:40:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning

Peter Roses and I have been using the K&N meters for a couple of years.
We're big fans of this setup.

 

The square meter is the least expensive.

 

Save some money by buying the single-wire O2 sensors and mounting bungs from
an auto parts store.

 

I've noticed the leaning on acceleration (one carb only) and abated it by
using heavier dashpot oil. It's easy to experiment with dashpot oil and
springs with the meter.

 

 

--

Steve Gerow

BN6 morphed into a Test Bed
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Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 10:07:25 2014
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 09:05:47 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/pWwwKYdPrBLsXTDKcz5azk7ZmVg==
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
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>  Single wire O2 didn't work for me as it didn't get hot enough for a
steady signal. I needed to use the 3 wire.

>  Ken Freese

>  

 

 

Interesting, Ken - where did you install them?

 

This shows Peter's and my installations in the down pipes near the frame
rail - both get hot enough in 30 secs or so.

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/exhaustanalyzer

 

We each bought a K&N square-gauge kit and in turn tried running both gauges
at the same time. Eventually we went to a switch as you have.

 

Peter's using both the K&N O2 sensors and I'm using two <$20 Bosch sensors -
all of which seem to work well.

 

 

-- 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA

BN6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 10:08:08 2014
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 09:10:17 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/pW615WMPrnmp9QueNE+2UjT3sHw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] AF meter SU tuning
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Bob Spidell wrote:

<<< 

Anybody ever fit these to a positive ground car?

I'd certainly give K&N a call in Riverside.

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
_______________________________________________
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 09:14:06 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Blue and OEW paint codes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A while back someone was looking for formulas for White and blue paint. I
found a document Rich Chrysler sent me with PPG formula for OEW and Sherwin
Williams formula for Ice Blue.
 Contact me off list if interested.
 BTW 17060  is a good PPG # for ice blue. Its what I used on my car

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 14:24:02 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I figure that if we can discuss the merits of various brands of GPS I can
ask this question.
I have been around British cars for about 50 years and worked on them
professionally for 30 so I have a pretty good understanding of how to fix
them..i.e. no obvious suggestions!!
My daily driver (summer) is a 1967 Morris Mini Cooper S.
It has recently developed a misfire on one cylinder..the problem sometimes
goes away after driving for a couple of miles but not always.
The engine runs both at idle and higher RPM on 3 cylinders...
When I check the plugs #2 plug is wet and obviously not firing.
Swap #4 & #2 plugs and the same cylinder, #2 still misfires and wets its
plug.
Compression test shows all cylinders even at about 160 p.s.i.
Install a spark tester (gap) between the plug cap and the plug of #2
cylinder and the engine runs, still on 3 cylinders, with a very healthy
3/4" spark showing in the tester. This to my mind eliminates almost any
ignition problem as the likely cause.
Both valves for #2 cylinder open and close a lot (649 cam).
Checked the points cam and it opens correctly for all cylinders.
Fitted a replacement distributor cap and rotor...no change.
I'm starting to run out of ideas here..
Disassembled both carbs, and checked the fuel supply and float float level
on each.
Now I'm really running out of ideas!!!! Help......
Michael S
BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LJHN5c2Dbu_qP3e82xLPMn1HuPJqRzjtLK67A_YKevpMw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 11:40:21 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Intake manifold intemittent leak due to heat



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 11:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S

I figure that if we can discuss the merits of various brands of GPS I can
ask this question.
I have been around British cars for about 50 years and worked on them
professionally for 30 so I have a pretty good understanding of how to fix
them..i.e. no obvious suggestions!!
My daily driver (summer) is a 1967 Morris Mini Cooper S.
It has recently developed a misfire on one cylinder..the problem sometimes
goes away after driving for a couple of miles but not always.
The engine runs both at idle and higher RPM on 3 cylinders...
When I check the plugs #2 plug is wet and obviously not firing.
Swap #4 & #2 plugs and the same cylinder, #2 still misfires and wets its
plug.
Compression test shows all cylinders even at about 160 p.s.i.
Install a spark tester (gap) between the plug cap and the plug of #2
cylinder and the engine runs, still on 3 cylinders, with a very healthy
3/4" spark showing in the tester. This to my mind eliminates almost any
ignition problem as the likely cause.
Both valves for #2 cylinder open and close a lot (649 cam).
Checked the points cam and it opens correctly for all cylinders.
Fitted a replacement distributor cap and rotor...no change.
I'm starting to run out of ideas here..
Disassembled both carbs, and checked the fuel supply and float float level
on each.
Now I'm really running out of ideas!!!! Help......
Michael S
BN1 #174
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 12:52:20 2014
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 14:51:43 -0400
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Adding a starter relay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For those who are more knowledgable than I regarding automotive electrical
systems (that should just about include most of you!), I have a question.
The application is not a Healey but I figure someone here will know.

If I wanted to add a starter relay to the ignition/starter wiring system
system. Should the relay go between the solenoid and the starter button, or
should it go between the ignition switch and the starter button? I assume it
should go between the solenoid and the starter button thereby relieving both
the button and the switch. However, I know it is always better to ask than
assume.

Thank you!
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 12:52:52 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 11:50:47 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] paint codes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I got more emails than I expected. I have requested John Sims upload the
info to his site. Hopefully he will let us know when it is posted.
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

Your worst day at work is better than your best day in Prison
Darrin King
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 13:07:51 2014
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 21:05:10 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAB3i7LJHN5c2Dbu_qP3e82xLPMn1HuPJqRzjtLK67A_YKevpMw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would still try a new sparkplug AND lead for no. 2. I had a similar 
problem with my JH years ago in the late seventies on my holidays in 
France for about a fortnight. Dismantled the whole chibang several 
times, no luck and finally came to the conclusion that is was the plug 
lead. I went to one of those small road side garages and asked for a 
plug lead. He asked: for what car? I told him it was for a Jensen 
Healey. He did not have any! I tried to explain that any thing of a 
suitable length was OK but he still maintained that it would not work. I 
then asked him if I could take a plug lead of one of the scrap 2-CV's 
lying about in the yard. "OK, go ahead if you must, but it will not 
work" . He was absolutely dumbfounded when the engine started up as 
sweet as a nut. I was his knowledgeable hero of the day.

Kees Oudesluijs


Michael Salter schreef op 16-10-2014 20:24:
> I figure that if we can discuss the merits of various brands of GPS I can
> ask this question.
> I have been around British cars for about 50 years and worked on them
> professionally for 30 so I have a pretty good understanding of how to fix
> them..i.e. no obvious suggestions!!
> My daily driver (summer) is a 1967 Morris Mini Cooper S.
> It has recently developed a misfire on one cylinder..the problem sometimes
> goes away after driving for a couple of miles but not always.
> The engine runs both at idle and higher RPM on 3 cylinders...
> When I check the plugs #2 plug is wet and obviously not firing.
> Swap #4 & #2 plugs and the same cylinder, #2 still misfires and wets its
> plug.
> Compression test shows all cylinders even at about 160 p.s.i.
> Install a spark tester (gap) between the plug cap and the plug of #2
> cylinder and the engine runs, still on 3 cylinders, with a very healthy
> 3/4" spark showing in the tester. This to my mind eliminates almost any
> ignition problem as the likely cause.
> Both valves for #2 cylinder open and close a lot (649 cam).
> Checked the points cam and it opens correctly for all cylinders.
> Fitted a replacement distributor cap and rotor...no change.
> I'm starting to run out of ideas here..
> Disassembled both carbs, and checked the fuel supply and float float level
> on each.
> Now I'm really running out of ideas!!!! Help......
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4765 / Virusdatabase: 4040/8400 - datum van uitgifte: 10/16/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 13:11:45 2014
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From: "Michael Brouillette" <m.brouillette@comcast.net>
To: "'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 15:14:31 -0400
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Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey: anyone know anything about the Bentley
	Tesonaso
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Folks,

         I was wandering around the web after someone posted on
bring-a-trailer about a 55 Bentley S1 in NJ that was in rough shape for
$2500 and I started to daydream of what I could do with this carcass and
came across a Bentley Tesonaso that was built in the Netherlands.
http://vanderbyl.nl/bentley-tesonaso/  

          Does anyone know anything about this car?  What a work of art...

Mike B
59 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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 Oct 2014 15:27:16 -0400
From: "SKIP SAUNDERS" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "'Oudesluys'" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LJHN5c2Dbu_qP3e82xLPMn1HuPJqRzjtLK67A_YKevpMw@mail.gmail.com>
 <544016E6.50301@chello.nl>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 15:27:12 -0400
Thread-Index: AQI0r7LAYu069GuJQ6cdYL+PJqxb/gGHhWTlm11StkA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

He probably doesn't believe in global warming either ... lol


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 3:05 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S

I would still try a new sparkplug AND lead for no. 2. I had a similar
problem with my JH years ago in the late seventies on my holidays in France
for about a fortnight. Dismantled the whole chibang several times, no luck
and finally came to the conclusion that is was the plug lead. I went to one
of those small road side garages and asked for a plug lead. He asked: for
what car? I told him it was for a Jensen Healey. He did not have any! I
tried to explain that any thing of a suitable length was OK but he still
maintained that it would not work. I then asked him if I could take a plug
lead of one of the scrap 2-CV's lying about in the yard. "OK, go ahead if
you must, but it will not work" . He was absolutely dumbfounded when the
engine started up as sweet as a nut. I was his knowledgeable hero of the
day.

Kees Oudesluijs


Michael Salter schreef op 16-10-2014 20:24:
> I figure that if we can discuss the merits of various brands of GPS I 
> can ask this question.
> I have been around British cars for about 50 years and worked on them 
> professionally for 30 so I have a pretty good understanding of how to 
> fix them..i.e. no obvious suggestions!!
> My daily driver (summer) is a 1967 Morris Mini Cooper S.
> It has recently developed a misfire on one cylinder..the problem 
> sometimes goes away after driving for a couple of miles but not always.
> The engine runs both at idle and higher RPM on 3 cylinders...
> When I check the plugs #2 plug is wet and obviously not firing.
> Swap #4 & #2 plugs and the same cylinder, #2 still misfires and wets 
> its plug.
> Compression test shows all cylinders even at about 160 p.s.i.
> Install a spark tester (gap) between the plug cap and the plug of #2 
> cylinder and the engine runs, still on 3 cylinders, with a very 
> healthy 3/4" spark showing in the tester. This to my mind eliminates 
> almost any ignition problem as the likely cause.
> Both valves for #2 cylinder open and close a lot (649 cam).
> Checked the points cam and it opens correctly for all cylinders.
> Fitted a replacement distributor cap and rotor...no change.
> I'm starting to run out of ideas here..
> Disassembled both carbs, and checked the fuel supply and float float 
> level on each.
> Now I'm really running out of ideas!!!! Help......
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4765 / Virusdatabase: 4040/8400 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 10/16/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 14:10:32 2014
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References: <071E03A0-F512-47DD-BF8D-4E7CDBCC816A@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 16:13:20 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adding a starter relay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Lin,
Not quite sure what you are trying to achieve with a starter relay.
The starter solenoid is in of itself a relay for the starter motor.
Installing a relay to power the solenoid directly rather than all the
current (probably less than 1 amp) going through the START button seems
like unnecessary complication.
I've never seen a burned out Lucas START button.
Am I missing something?

Michael S
BN1 #174


On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 2:51 PM, Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com> wrote:

> For those who are more knowledgable than I regarding automotive electrical
> systems (that should just about include most of you!), I have a question.
> The application is not a Healey but I figure someone here will know.
>
> If I wanted to add a starter relay to the ignition/starter wiring system
> system. Should the relay go between the solenoid and the starter button, or
> should it go between the ignition switch and the starter button? I assume
> it
> should go between the solenoid and the starter button thereby relieving
> both
> the button and the switch. However, I know it is always better to ask than
> assume.
>
> Thank you!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 14:14:42 2014
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From: "Herbert Miller" <hgmiller3@qwest.net>
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 15:17:35 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac/pfjk8iA2xGsO6RVGUxuI1/7Pj7Q==
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Subject: [Healeys] 3000 cam bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Does anyone have a source for quality 3000 cam bearings?

 

Herb Miller

1962 BT7

1967 BJ8
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 13:18:30 -0700
References: <3uvV1p00x0NyJgq01uvWLD>
To: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adding a starter relay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The starter solenoid is a relay, and the new style gear reduction starters
either don't need one, or it's built in so you'd bypass the clunky old
"solenoid".



On Oct 16, 2014, at 11:51 AM, Linwood Rose wrote:

> For those who are more knowledgable than I regarding automotive electrical
> systems (that should just about include most of you!), I have a question.
> The application is not a Healey but I figure someone here will know.
>
> If I wanted to add a starter relay to the ignition/starter wiring system
> system. Should the relay go between the solenoid and the starter button, or
> should it go between the ignition switch and the starter button? I assume
it
> should go between the solenoid and the starter button thereby relieving
both
> the button and the switch. However, I know it is always better to ask than
> assume.
>
> Thank you!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 14:24:59 2014
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From: "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
thread-topic: Carpet replacement
thread-index: Ac/pf4eWL44V8Z/1S0qaSdcN448qqQ==
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 15:27:54 -0500
To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am restoring my 1959 BN4 100-6. Original interior was noted as red on the
BMHT. The car is now painted old English White with dark red coves. The dash
and seat covers and kick panels are in excellent shape and are all dark red.

I need to replace the carpet and I want to stay with colors that are specific
to Austin Healey. Is there only one color red (bright red) or did they make a
dark red carpet?

  Should I order from Moss or heritagetrim.com?  Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 14:54:31 2014
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 16:53:39 -0400
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Adding a starter relay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 Thank you Michael and Rick. I withdraw my question. :-)

> For those who are more knowledgable than I regarding automotive electrical
> systems (that should just about include most of you!), I have a question.
> The application is not a Healey but I figure someone here will know.
>
> If I wanted to add a starter relay to the ignition/starter wiring system
> system. Should the relay go between the solenoid and the starter button, or
> should it go between the ignition switch and the starter button? I assume
it
> should go between the solenoid and the starter button thereby relieving
both
> the button and the switch. However, I know it is always better to ask than
> assume.
>
> Thank you!

Lin
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 14:55:31 2014
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References: <B1C0ACDD-AE53-4B37-91DC-4103ED221C7F@visioncenterpc.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 21:55:48 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Cc: AustinHealey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

There was only one colour red. Modern repros tend to be slightly lighter
and brighter than the originals. The same applies to the blue interiors.

Derek

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 9:27 PM, Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
wrote:

> I am restoring my 1959 BN4 100-6. Original interior was noted as red on the
> BMHT. The car is now painted old English White with dark red coves. The
> dash
> and seat covers and kick panels are in excellent shape and are all dark
> red.
>
> I need to replace the carpet and I want to stay with colors that are
> specific
> to Austin Healey. Is there only one color red (bright red) or did they
> make a
> dark red carpet?
>
>   Should I order from Moss or heritagetrim.com?  Thanks.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 14:02:35 -0700
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would 2nd Kees suggestion. Had a similar situation with re-starting my
car. Changed out the lead and the issue went away. especially if they are
carbon, but it has happened with copper too.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 11:24 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I figure that if we can discuss the merits of various brands of GPS I can
> ask this question.
> I have been around British cars for about 50 years and worked on them
> professionally for 30 so I have a pretty good understanding of how to fix
> them..i.e. no obvious suggestions!!
> My daily driver (summer) is a 1967 Morris Mini Cooper S.
> It has recently developed a misfire on one cylinder..the problem sometimes
> goes away after driving for a couple of miles but not always.
> The engine runs both at idle and higher RPM on 3 cylinders...
> When I check the plugs #2 plug is wet and obviously not firing.
> Swap #4 & #2 plugs and the same cylinder, #2 still misfires and wets its
> plug.
> Compression test shows all cylinders even at about 160 p.s.i.
> Install a spark tester (gap) between the plug cap and the plug of #2
> cylinder and the engine runs, still on 3 cylinders, with a very healthy
> 3/4" spark showing in the tester. This to my mind eliminates almost any
> ignition problem as the likely cause.
> Both valves for #2 cylinder open and close a lot (649 cam).
> Checked the points cam and it opens correctly for all cylinders.
> Fitted a replacement distributor cap and rotor...no change.
> I'm starting to run out of ideas here..
> Disassembled both carbs, and checked the fuel supply and float float level
> on each.
> Now I'm really running out of ideas!!!! Help......
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 15:41:25 2014
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From: Leonard Berkowitz <drberkowitz@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 17:34:33 -0400
 FILETIME=[F9D78970:01CFE988]
Subject: [Healeys] Re Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had my radiator re-cored and added an extra row to it.  No longer runs
hot.  Have driven it at a steady 70-80 on 90+ days and never go over 200F.  I
had tried oil coolers, electric fans, and fans with extra blades.  Nothing
worked.  Additionally unless you really look very carefully the radiator looks
completly stock and original.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 17:43:28 2014
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 19:42:13 -0400
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <B1C0ACDD-AE53-4B37-91DC-4103ED221C7F@visioncenterpc.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet replacement
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris,
Dark and light are terms that may be different in the mind's eye of 
different people.
Anyone who sells carpets for your car can send out a sample of the 
colors that you may be interested in.
Perhaps you should also include other vendors like some out of the UK.  
There is also a company called Automat in NY (Long Island) who offer 
carpets for Austin-Healeys and many other cars. 
http://www.autointeriors.biz/
Charlie

On 10/16/2014 4:27 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:
> I am restoring my 1959 BN4 100-6. Original interior was noted as red on the
> BMHT. The car is now painted old English White with dark red coves. The dash
> and seat covers and kick panels are in excellent shape and are all dark red.
>
> I need to replace the carpet and I want to stay with colors that are specific
> to Austin Healey. Is there only one color red (bright red) or did they make a
> dark red carpet?
>
>    Should I order from Moss or heritagetrim.com?  Thanks.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 17:56:57 2014
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References: <BC7F5880-0564-4FED-892F-9FAAA7613132@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 16:56:09 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adding a starter relay question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

FWIW lots of modern cars have starter relays between the ignition switch
and the solenoid, so the idea of adding one to an old car is not that
outrageous.
If you do add one, it would go between the starter button and the solenoid.

A quick Google seems to show that a start solenoid draws in the
neighborhood of 8-10A with the pull in windings, and less with the hold in
windings.
I can tell you a starter relay on a modern car is designed for
substantially more current that your average relay.
compare the terminals on this relay
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/idi/250658_primary.jpg The
small terminal on the left is the same as your average relay, fits a
standard spade terminal, look at the high current terminal on the right, it
is over twice as wide, designed for much higher current.
If you need to know how to wire it feel free to drop me a line.
Rick

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 1:53 PM, Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com> wrote:

>  Thank you Michael and Rick. I withdraw my question. :-)
>
> > For those who are more knowledgable than I regarding automotive
> electrical
> > systems (that should just about include most of you!), I have a question.
> > The application is not a Healey but I figure someone here will know.
> >
> > If I wanted to add a starter relay to the ignition/starter wiring system
> > system. Should the relay go between the solenoid and the starter button,
> or
> > should it go between the ignition switch and the starter button? I assume
> it
> > should go between the solenoid and the starter button thereby relieving
> both
> > the button and the switch. However, I know it is always better to ask
> than
> > assume.
> >
> > Thank you!
>
> Lin
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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 <1947D53641C24C339FDA896C528FFAB7@DavidNockHP>
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 17:06:56 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm with David, There is something different about the conditions in that
cylinder.  Since it only affects #2, I think you can rule out carbs, rotor,
points, dwell, condenser and anything that effects all the cylinders.
Intake vacuum leak, cap, spark plug lead, valve or cam lobe issue is what
is left.
I have seen cracked caps missfire on one cylinder but you said you tried a
new cap.
Since you say it goes away sometimes, this could also be a valve issue,
either binding in the valve guide, or  broken valve spring.  Broken valve
springs are sometimes not obvious, when you look at them.
Let me know what you find
Rick

On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 11:40 AM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

> Intake manifold intemittent leak due to heat
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter
> Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 11:24 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
>
>
> I figure that if we can discuss the merits of various brands of GPS I can
> ask this question.
> I have been around British cars for about 50 years and worked on them
> professionally for 30 so I have a pretty good understanding of how to fix
> them..i.e. no obvious suggestions!!
> My daily driver (summer) is a 1967 Morris Mini Cooper S.
> It has recently developed a misfire on one cylinder..the problem sometimes
> goes away after driving for a couple of miles but not always.
> The engine runs both at idle and higher RPM on 3 cylinders...
> When I check the plugs #2 plug is wet and obviously not firing.
> Swap #4 & #2 plugs and the same cylinder, #2 still misfires and wets its
> plug.
> Compression test shows all cylinders even at about 160 p.s.i.
> Install a spark tester (gap) between the plug cap and the plug of #2
> cylinder and the engine runs, still on 3 cylinders, with a very healthy
> 3/4" spark showing in the tester. This to my mind eliminates almost any
> ignition problem as the likely cause.
> Both valves for #2 cylinder open and close a lot (649 cam).
> Checked the points cam and it opens correctly for all cylinders.
> Fitted a replacement distributor cap and rotor...no change.
> I'm starting to run out of ideas here..
> Disassembled both carbs, and checked the fuel supply and float float level
> on each.
> Now I'm really running out of ideas!!!! Help......
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net ______________________________
> _________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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> options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 16 18:57:12 2014
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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2014 20:53:40 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Leonard Berkowitz <drberkowitz@hotmail.com>, 
 "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Re Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

FWIW, I have the original radiator and a 6 blade metal fan-----my car runs in the same temp range as what you show.

tom
65 BJ8
---- Leonard Berkowitz <drberkowitz@hotmail.com> wrote: 

=============
I had my radiator re-cored and added an extra row to it.  No longer runs
hot.  Have driven it at a steady 70-80 on 90+ days and never go over 200F.  I
had tried oil coolers, electric fans, and fans with extra blades.  Nothing
worked.  Additionally unless you really look very carefully the radiator looks
completly stock and original.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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References: <CAB3i7LJHN5c2Dbu_qP3e82xLPMn1HuPJqRzjtLK67A_YKevpMw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1947D53641C24C339FDA896C528FFAB7@DavidNockHP>
 <CACOF-TrW+Eh-kDfnow2ih8TcxuD4vpx73PmHZxKv2k7C+Hu4Eg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 06:24:45 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Valve gap? If too tigth, it might not let the valve seat.

Gergo

2014-10-17 2:06 GMT+02:00 Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>:

> I'm with David, There is something different about the conditions in that
> cylinder.  Since it only affects #2, I think you can rule out carbs, rotor,
> points, dwell, condenser and anything that effects all the cylinders.
> Intake vacuum leak, cap, spark plug lead, valve or cam lobe issue is what
> is left.
> I have seen cracked caps missfire on one cylinder but you said you tried a
> new cap.
> Since you say it goes away sometimes, this could also be a valve issue,
> either binding in the valve guide, or  broken valve spring.  Broken valve
> springs are sometimes not obvious, when you look at them.
> Let me know what you find
> Rick
>
> On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 11:40 AM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Intake manifold intemittent leak due to heat
> >
> >
> >
> > David Nock
> > British Car Specialists
> > 209-948-8767
> > www.britishcarspecialists.com
> > -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter
> > Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 11:24 AM
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
> >
> >
> > I figure that if we can discuss the merits of various brands of GPS I can
> > ask this question.
> > I have been around British cars for about 50 years and worked on them
> > professionally for 30 so I have a pretty good understanding of how to fix
> > them..i.e. no obvious suggestions!!
> > My daily driver (summer) is a 1967 Morris Mini Cooper S.
> > It has recently developed a misfire on one cylinder..the problem
> sometimes
> > goes away after driving for a couple of miles but not always.
> > The engine runs both at idle and higher RPM on 3 cylinders...
> > When I check the plugs #2 plug is wet and obviously not firing.
> > Swap #4 & #2 plugs and the same cylinder, #2 still misfires and wets its
> > plug.
> > Compression test shows all cylinders even at about 160 p.s.i.
> > Install a spark tester (gap) between the plug cap and the plug of #2
> > cylinder and the engine runs, still on 3 cylinders, with a very healthy
> > 3/4" spark showing in the tester. This to my mind eliminates almost any
> > ignition problem as the likely cause.
> > Both valves for #2 cylinder open and close a lot (649 cam).
> > Checked the points cam and it opens correctly for all cylinders.
> > Fitted a replacement distributor cap and rotor...no change.
> > I'm starting to run out of ideas here..
> > Disassembled both carbs, and checked the fuel supply and float float
> level
> > on each.
> > Now I'm really running out of ideas!!!! Help......
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> > options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net ______________________________
> > _________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> > options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 17 05:56:56 2014
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To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,  "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 07:54:13 -0400
References: <CAB3i7LJHN5c2Dbu_qP3e82xLPMn1HuPJqRzjtLK67A_YKevpMw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Well I listened to peoples advice... changing the cap and leads, a horrible
job on a Cooper S, made no difference.
Checked the valve clearances again.
Even put in a new plug and peered around inside the cylinder with my
neighbours"borescope". Nothing.
Checked the compressions again still all at  160.
Tightened the manifold stud nuts.
When the engine is idling blocking off a carb intake progressively makes the
engine slow down and stop...the same result for either carb.
Checked the valve springs....all good.
It seems that all I have succeeded in doing is make the problem worse...now it
never goes on to 4 cylinders...
Maybe if I store it for the winter all will be better in the spring.
Thanks to all for their suggestions.....I'm beat.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Sent: b10/b16/b2014 2:24 PM
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Odd misfire problem Cooper S

I figure that if we can discuss the merits of various brands of GPS I can ask
this question.
I have been around British cars for about 50 years and worked on them
professionally for 30 so I have a pretty good understanding of how to fix
them..i.e. no obvious suggestions!!
My daily driver (summer) is a 1967 Morris Mini Cooper S.

It has recently developed a misfire on one cylinder..the problem sometimes
goes away after driving for a couple of miles but not always.

The engine runs both at idle and higher RPM on 3 cylinders...

When I check the plugs #2 plug is wet and obviously not firing.

Swap #4 & #2 plugs and the same cylinder, #2 still misfires and wets its
plug.

Compression test shows all cylinders even at about 160 p.s.i.

Install a spark tester (gap) between the plug cap and the plug of #2 cylinder
and the engine runs, still on 3 cylinders, with a very healthy 3/4" spark
showing in the tester. This to my mind eliminates almost any ignition problem
as the likely cause.

Both valves for #2 cylinder open and close a lot (649 cam).

Checked the points cam and it opens correctly for all cylinders.

Fitted a replacement distributor cap and rotor...no change.

I'm starting to run out of ideas here..

Disassembled both carbs, and checked the fuel supply and float float level on
each.

Now I'm really running out of ideas!!!! Help......

Michael S

BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 17 05:59:49 2014
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 05:02:41 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LJHN5c2Dbu_qP3e82xLPMn1HuPJqRzjtLK67A_YKevpMw@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

Do you have a Colortune glass spark plug?  I'm reaching here, but if you could view the spark event you could at least 
determine whether it's electrical or not.

Bob



On 10/17/2014 4:54 AM, Michael wrote:
> Well I listened to peoples advice... changing the cap and leads, a horrible
> job on a Cooper S, made no difference.
> Checked the valve clearances again.
> Even put in a new plug and peered around inside the cylinder with my
> neighbours"borescope". Nothing.
> Checked the compressions again still all at  160.
> Tightened the manifold stud nuts.
> When the engine is idling blocking off a carb intake progressively makes the
> engine slow down and stop...the same result for either carb.
> Checked the valve springs....all good.
> It seems that all I have succeeded in doing is make the problem worse...now it
> never goes on to 4 cylinders...
> Maybe if I store it for the winter all will be better in the spring.
> Thanks to all for their suggestions.....I'm beat.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 17 07:42:42 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: MIKE LEWIS <harborislander@aol.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] BN6 carpet colors
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Believe the BN6 red is not a "bright red" but a bit darker like my 56 100M.
Also, think the Moss carpet red is pretty correct versus their leather red
being way too burgundy.  Would suggest checking with AH Spares and John
Skinner in UK for carpet.  Skinner sells the Karvel style as well as wool and
nylon.  Think AH Spares sells wool and nylon ( modern).  Both are great
vendors.  Karvel would be correct but a bear to work with as the backing is so
stiff -tough to get that tranny tunnel cover looking good.
Regards
Mike Lewis
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 17 07:43:22 2014
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 Oct 2014 09:42:27 -0400
From: "SKIP SAUNDERS" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "'Michael'" <michael.salter@gmail.com>, "'Michael Salter'"
 <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LJHN5c2Dbu_qP3e82xLPMn1HuPJqRzjtLK67A_YKevpMw@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 09:42:21 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Your original post said:  #2 plug was wet.  Given all the fuel/compression
related checks, it would appear that only electrics remain.   Something is
preventing the plug from getting spark ... where there is spark, there is
fire (given fuel ... i.e. plug wet, and given compression ... i.e. valves
etc. ok).  All these mechanical things can't have intermittent properties...
only electrics are prone to intermittents:  Hence it must be electrical.

Must be a computer somewhere that does an "eco thing" and shuts down spark
on #2 for some reason?   Or, rethink the wiring integrity.... lastly, since
it appears to always be #2 cylinder, the issue has to be somewhere between
the distributor and the plug.  Perhaps there is a mysterious cam wobble that
makes the #2 wire from the cap have an unreliable connection?


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 7:54 AM
To: Michael Salter; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd misfire problem Cooper S

Well I listened to peoples advice... changing the cap and leads, a horrible
job on a Cooper S, made no difference.
Checked the valve clearances again.
Even put in a new plug and peered around inside the cylinder with my
neighbours"borescope". Nothing.
Checked the compressions again still all at  160.
Tightened the manifold stud nuts.
When the engine is idling blocking off a carb intake progressively makes the
engine slow down and stop...the same result for either carb.
Checked the valve springs....all good.
It seems that all I have succeeded in doing is make the problem worse...now
it never goes on to 4 cylinders...
Maybe if I store it for the winter all will be better in the spring.
Thanks to all for their suggestions.....I'm beat.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Sent: b
10/b
16/b
2014 2:24 PM
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Odd misfire problem Cooper S

I figure that if we can discuss the merits of various brands of GPS I can
ask this question.
I have been around British cars for about 50 years and worked on them
professionally for 30 so I have a pretty good understanding of how to fix
them..i.e. no obvious suggestions!!
My daily driver (summer) is a 1967 Morris Mini Cooper S.

It has recently developed a misfire on one cylinder..the problem sometimes
goes away after driving for a couple of miles but not always.

The engine runs both at idle and higher RPM on 3 cylinders...

When I check the plugs #2 plug is wet and obviously not firing.

Swap #4 & #2 plugs and the same cylinder, #2 still misfires and wets its
plug.

Compression test shows all cylinders even at about 160 p.s.i.

Install a spark tester (gap) between the plug cap and the plug of #2
cylinder and the engine runs, still on 3 cylinders, with a very healthy 3/4"
spark showing in the tester. This to my mind eliminates almost any ignition
problem as the likely cause.

Both valves for #2 cylinder open and close a lot (649 cam).

Checked the points cam and it opens correctly for all cylinders.

Fitted a replacement distributor cap and rotor...no change.

I'm starting to run out of ideas here..

Disassembled both carbs, and checked the fuel supply and float float level
on each.

Now I'm really running out of ideas!!!! Help......

Michael S

BN1 #174
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7@mindspring.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 17 08:03:38 2014
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 08:06:28 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,  "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <544121B0.3080001@porterscustom.com>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: ] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think Skip may be on to something here.. measure the wear on the
distributor cam lobes for sameness of each or some reason for the points
plate to shift under different centrifugal or vacuum conditions.. gotta
be a Lucas issue;-)You've tried everything else.. hook up your timing light and drive around with it and watch the firing...
dave


-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 17 12:59:48 2014
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References: <544121B0.3080001@porterscustom.com>
 <54412264.5040901@porterscustom.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 11:59:29 -0700
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: ] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The spark in that video is awfully healthy.  I'm having a hard time
envisioning that with a spark that healthy that the plug is NOT firing at
all and is wet.
I would spray around the intake with carb spray to eliminate an intake leak
and then I think I'd pull the valve cover and use a dial indicator to
measure cam lift on both intake and exhaust.
Tis truly a baffling issue.
If all else fails, you might try beating on the distributor with a rubber
chicken, dancing around the car counter clockwise chanting "Oh dark lord
Lucas protect you lowly minion as I toil away on this car.
Hey at this point it can't hurt.
Rick

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 7:06 AM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
wrote:

> I think Skip may be on to something here.. measure the wear on the
> distributor cam lobes for sameness of each or some reason for the points
> plate to shift under different centrifugal or vacuum conditions.. gotta
> be a Lucas issue;-)You've tried everything else.. hook up your timing
> light and drive around with it and watch the firing...
> dave
>
>
> --
> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107
> 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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References: <544121B0.3080001@porterscustom.com>
 <54412264.5040901@porterscustom.com>
 <CACOF-To69=7O7MP-v=uyGD7ZpJYZDmiRXB1-R52VNw0aLBMCXw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 13:21:21 -0700
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>, David Porter
 <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: ] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Put a Pertronix module in it and be done with it.  The shaft can wobble all it wants with the Pertronix and it will keep the timing spot on.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5



On Friday, October 17, 2014 12:03 PM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com> wrote:
 

>
>
>The spark in that video is awfully healthy.  I'm having a hard time
>envisioning that with a spark that healthy that the plug is NOT firing at
>all and is wet.
>I would spray around the intake with carb spray to eliminate an intake leak
>and then I think I'd pull the valve cover and use a dial indicator to
>measure cam lift on both intake and exhaust.
>Tis truly a baffling issue.
>If all else fails, you might try beating on the distributor with a rubber
>chicken, dancing around the car counter clockwise chanting "Oh dark lord
>Lucas protect you lowly minion as I toil away on this car.
>Hey at this point it can't hurt.
>Rick
>
>On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 7:06 AM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
>wrote:
>
>> I think Skip may be on to something here.. measure the wear on the
>> distributor cam lobes for sameness of each or some reason for the points
>> plate to shift under different centrifugal or vacuum conditions.. gotta
>> be a Lucas issue;-)You've tried everything else.. hook up your timing
>> light and drive around with it and watch the firing...
>> dave
>>
>>
>> --
>> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107
>> 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 13:53:13 -0700
References: <544121B0.3080001@porterscustom.com>
 <54412264.5040901@porterscustom.com>
 <CACOF-To69=7O7MP-v=uyGD7ZpJYZDmiRXB1-R52VNw0aLBMCXw@mail.gmail.com>
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To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: ] Odd misfire problem Cooper S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't forget if the problem is not ignition primary related a Pertonix
Won't fix it.
Rick
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 17, 2014, at 13:21, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net> wrote:
>
> Put a Pertronix module in it and be done with it.  The shaft can wobble all
it wants with the Pertronix and it will keep the timing spot on.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
>
>
> On Friday, October 17, 2014 12:03 PM, Richard Ewald
<richard.ewald@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> The spark in that video is awfully healthy.  I'm having a hard time
> envisioning that with a spark that healthy that the plug is NOT firing at
> all and is wet.
> I would spray around the intake with carb spray to eliminate an intake leak
> and then I think I'd pull the valve cover and use a dial indicator to
> measure cam lift on both intake and exhaust.
> Tis truly a baffling issue.
> If all else fails, you might try beating on the distributor with a rubber
> chicken, dancing around the car counter clockwise chanting "Oh dark lord
> Lucas protect you lowly minion as I toil away on this car.
> Hey at this point it can't hurt.
> Rick
>
> On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 7:06 AM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I think Skip may be on to something here.. measure the wear on the
> > distributor cam lobes for sameness of each or some reason for the points
> > plate to shift under different centrifugal or vacuum conditions.. gotta
> > be a Lucas issue;-)You've tried everything else.. hook up your timing
> > light and drive around with it and watch the firing...
> > dave
> >
> >
> > --
> > Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 87107
> > 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> > options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 17 15:30:14 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 14:27:16 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] bottom drive dog for BT7 distributor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a pertronix distributor that I want to use, but need the bottom
drive dog. I do not want to take the one off my Lucas unit. If anyone has
an extra or one for sale, please contact me off list.
#43 on Moss Motors
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28925#top
I do not want to drill it out as per their directions
Thanks
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

Your worst day at work is better than your best day in Prison
Darrin King
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 17 23:48:40 2014
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From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2014 22:51:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Stolen Car, Not a Joke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

----- Original Message -----
From: Joan Geary
To: Joan Geary
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 7:57 PM
Subject: Fwd: Stolen Car, Not a Joke


This is a very unfortunate situation.   If any of you hear anything to do with
this stolen car, please email Ed or Dick at the addresses below.


Joan






  ---------- Forwarded message ----------
  From: dick enersen <dick@enersen.org>
  Date: Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 9:09 AM
  Subject: Fwd: Fwd: Stolen Car, Not a Joke
  To: "Ben Brown, MD" <brownbenm@gmail.com>, Joe Keon <joekeon@comcast.net>



  FYI...


  Mary lou:


  Could you please email blast this, I know this is not lunch bunch related,
but this guy has had this car for a long time and is a true passionate car
guy. If we could get this out to as many people as possible it would be doing
the car community a great service.


  Gary Kuntz
  glkuntz@aol.com









  Please help find this car, this is not a joke.


  First of all and most important...a great guy...a great car guy...has had a
love of his life stolen along with his truck and trailer from in front of his
house. Our friend Ed Adams had his wonder Silver  custom beauty stolen.



  IF YOU SEEOR IF YOU HEAR OF ANYTHING TO DO WITH THIS CAR PLEASE EMAIL ED AT
EDONADAMS@AOL.COM OR EMAIL ME. No questions askedhe just wants his car back.
Also if you have a distribution list of your own please forward this email.
This is just not okay and we all lose if this beauty isnt returned to Ed.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Mail Attachment.jpeg]
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 18 06:18:51 2014
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From: <healeyguy@aol.com>
To: =?utf-8?Q?AustinHealey_List?= <healeys@autox.team.net>, 
 =?utf-8?Q?Len_and/or_Marge_Hartnett?= <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2014 12:08:23 +0000
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Appears that a link to knowing any information on location, vehicle information, etc was scrubbed from this email thread. Canbt help without the basic info.






Sent from Windows Mail





From: Len and/or Marge Hartnett
Sent: bSaturdayb, bOctoberb b18b, b2014 b1b:b51b bAM
To: AustinHealey List





----- Original Message -----
From: Joan Geary
To: Joan Geary
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 7:57 PM
Subject: Fwd: Stolen Car, Not a Joke
This is a very unfortunate situation.   If any of you hear anything to do with
this stolen car, please email Ed or Dick at the addresses below.
Joan

  ---------- Forwarded message ----------
  From: dick enersen <dick@enersen.org>
  Date: Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 9:09 AM
  Subject: Fwd: Fwd: Stolen Car, Not a Joke
  To: "Ben Brown, MD" <brownbenm@gmail.com>, Joe Keon joekeon@comcast.net
  FYI...
  Mary lou:
  Could you please email blast this, I know this is not lunch bunch related,
but this guy has had this car for a long time and is a true passionate car
guy. If we could get this out to as many people as possible it would be doing
the car community a great service.
 Gary Kuntz
  glkuntz@aol.com


  Please help find this car, this is not a joke.

  First of all and most important...a great guy...a great car guy...has had a
love of his life stolen along with his truck and trailer from in front of his
house. Our friend Ed Adams had his wonder Silver  custom beauty stolen.

  IF YOU SEEOR IF YOU HEAR OF ANYTHING TO DO WITH THIS CAR PLEASE EMAIL ED AT
EDONADAMS@AOL.COM OR EMAIL ME. No questions askedhe just wants his car back.
Also if you have a distribution list of your own please forward this email.
This is just not okay and we all lose if this beauty isnt returned to Ed.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Mail Attachment.jpeg]
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 18 06:19:36 2014
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From: M James <britcrs@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2014 06:21:54 -0600
References: <0E0734D49E104320B450DA481253762E@LeonardPCPC>
To: Len and/or Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Stolen Car, Not a Joke
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Bring a Trailer has pictures and a link to a relevant Craigslist.

Marv J

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 17, 2014, at 11:51 PM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett
<thehartnetts@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joan Geary
> To: Joan Geary
> Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 7:57 PM
> Subject: Fwd: Stolen Car, Not a Joke
>
>
> This is a very unfortunate situation.   If any of you hear anything to do
with
> this stolen car, please email Ed or Dick at the addresses below.
>
>
> Joan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>  From: dick enersen <dick@enersen.org>
>  Date: Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 9:09 AM
>  Subject: Fwd: Fwd: Stolen Car, Not a Joke
>  To: "Ben Brown, MD" <brownbenm@gmail.com>, Joe Keon <joekeon@comcast.net>
>
>
>
>  FYI...
>
>
>  Mary lou:
>
>
>  Could you please email blast this, I know this is not lunch bunch related,
> but this guy has had this car for a long time and is a true passionate car
> guy. If we could get this out to as many people as possible it would be
doing
> the car community a great service.
>
>
>  Gary Kuntz
>  glkuntz@aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Please help find this car, this is not a joke.
>
>
>  First of all and most important...a great guy...a great car guy...has had
a
> love of his life stolen along with his truck and trailer from in front of
his
> house. Our friend Ed Adams had his wonder Silver  custom beauty stolen.
>
>
>
>  IF YOU SEEOR IF YOU HEAR OF ANYTHING TO DO WITH THIS CAR PLEASE EMAIL ED
AT
> EDONADAMS@AOL.COM OR EMAIL ME. No questions askedhe just wants his car
back.
> Also if you have a distribution list of your own please forward this email.
> This is just not okay and we all lose if this beauty isnt returned to Ed.
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
Mail Attachment.jpeg]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 18 06:33:37 2014
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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2014 08:27:26 -0400
From: ggilliam@usol.com
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/0.8.1
Subject: [Healeys] BAT Link to missing Triumph
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Here is the link to the info page:

http://bringatrailer.com/2014/10/17/help-a-bat-friend-ed-a-s-aluminum-triumph-special/

Best of luck recovering it...

Gordy
Longbridge BN4
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 18 11:04:46 2014
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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2014 09:57:50 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Stolen Car, Not a Joke
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

In response to the comments received since forwarding the email, let me just
say that I forwarded what was provided.  There was no attachment.  The car was
relatively local to the SF bay area as I had seen it at a British Car Show in
Brisbane, CA.  More information is provided on the Bring a Trailer website
such as "...Triumph-based aluminum Special Roadster stolen from in front of
his house in Berkeley.. ."  (thank you Marv).

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 18 14:35:16 2014
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Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2014 10:27:56 -1000
From: Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, Ahealey help
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Running Temps--Was: Re: Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I fabricated a sheet metal pan [ for my BT7 ]  to fill the space between
the front shroud and frame below the radiator. the air that comes in the
grill goes thru the radiator instead of under the car. the pan is 16 3/4"
wide, 13 1/2" front/back. A 1 1/2" lip on the back fastens it to the frame
rail. A  2 1/4" hole is located for the radiator drain. Stock radiator and
a 6 blade alum. fan from Norm Knock. No cooling problems. Aloha, Jim

On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 9:27 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> One factor which I have found makes a surprisingly large difference is the
> correct installation of the radiator baffles. I have resolved persistent
> overheating problems in 6 cylinder cars by just ensuring that the hot air
> from the engine compartment cannot make its way around to the front of the
> radiator..
> It's worth a try and a lot less expensive than an aluminium radiator.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 12:47 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Agreed. I am using a (modern) sleeved-type thermostat, have a calibrated
> > gauge and have tried several thermostats (I tested a couple on the stove
> > and they functioned as expected). Still, my BJ8 engine will run below the
> > thermostat set point on a cool day with light load--I would expect the
> > coolant temp even under those conditions to rise to nominal, but it
> > doesn't. Our BN2 behaves the same way.
> >
> > The only comparison I can think of is air-cooled aircraft engines, which
> > usually have an oil cooler. There is a valve called a
> > Vernatherm--essentially a bi-metal strip--that closes off oil flow to the
> > oil cooler radiator to allow the engine to warm to operating temperature
> > before the cooler is brought 'online.' But, an air-cooled engine can
> > dissipate a lot more heat than an Austin lump.
> >
> > Is it possible the huge chunk of iron in front could be 'self-cooling' to
> > a point then, beyond that point, even with wide-open thermostat, cannot
> > maintain a set temperature? My guess is that at speed there is sufficient
> > airflow to cool the engine--even below the thermostat set point--but once
> > stuck in traffic or with a load there isn't enough excess airflow and the
> > cooling system's capability is exceeded (as Kees mentioned).
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> >
> >
> > In general the temperature should be more or less constant under any
> > condition, just slightly above the opening temperature of the
> > thermostat. If the temperature shows to be lower than the thermostat
> > opening temperature the thermostat is at fault or is the wrong type (it
> > should be of the sleeved type), assuming the heater is turned off. If
> > very cold, with the heater plus heater fan on maximum, the temperature
> > could drop below the opening temperature of the thermostat.
> > If the temperature increases significantly the cooling capacity is
> > insufficient because of blockages/dirt, faulty water pump or the wrong
> > radiator capacity.
> > Older cars can have insufficient cooling capacity at low speeds/engine
> > revs, hence the advise to fit a thermostatically controlled electric fan
> > when the car is used in modern traffic.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 02:09:58 2014
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From: "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 03:12:39 -0500
thread-topic: Remove bolts lower A arm
thread-index: Ac/rdGl6ocKi7R1hTXa+teKA6dg9GA==
To: "AustinHealey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am restoring a '59 100-6 and I am having trouble getting the 2 big bolts out
that connect the lower A arms to the frame. Any ideas?  Thanks.

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 01:46:02 -0700
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>, AustinHealey List
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

PB Blaster.  Soak it overnight.  Incredible stuff.  If that fails use a torch to heat it up.  Now that works every time.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5



On Sunday, October 19, 2014 1:13 AM, Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com> wrote:
 

>
>
>I am restoring a '59 100-6 and I am having trouble getting the 2 big bolts out
>that connect the lower A arms to the frame. Any ideas?  Thanks.
>
>Sent from my iPhone
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 07:21:30 2014
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From: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 09:20:17 -0400
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Rear fenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My rear fenders are okay except the door side and the whole from face was
filled with bondo. I only see a repair kit for the lower end of the fender? Is
it better to just buy new fenders? Anyone have any experience with quality on
new units?

Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 07:22:13 2014
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 09:22:17 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tool kit components
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

In order to tidy up the final details on #174 I require 3 small parts for
the tool kit.
If anyone has extra originals of these that I could purchase I would very
much appreciate their contacting me off line.
1. Spark plug and tappet feeler gauge.
2. Type valve core extractor.
3. Lucas ignition feeler and screwdriver
I'm aware the reproductions of some of these are available but i would like
to try to get originals if possible.
Many thanks,
Michael S
BN1 #174
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 07:26:44 2014
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 09:29:37 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear fenders
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Simon,
I still have several rebuilt original fenders, and shrouds, check here
<http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=445>...
In my experience they fit much better than the reproductions.
Michael S
BN1 #174

On Sun, Oct 19, 2014 at 9:20 AM, Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
wrote:

> My rear fenders are okay except the door side and the whole from face was
> filled with bondo. I only see a repair kit for the lower end of the
> fender? Is
> it better to just buy new fenders? Anyone have any experience with quality
> on
> new units?
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 08:06:30 2014
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 14:08:22 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
References: <3C36C85E-17B8-44D7-80B5-27FB6F7EEB17@visioncenterpc.com>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Remove bolts lower A arm
Thread-Index: Ac/rdGl6ocKi7R1hTXa+teKA6dg9GAiGcIaP
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just about my least favorite job on a Healey. If you can get just a little clearance between the big, washer-shaped head you can use a pickle fork (aka ball joint separator) and a good-sized hammer to wedge the bolt out. Not elegant, and the bolt head will probably deform a little, but it can be straightened out on the bench. 

To get a little clearance and, if you're lucky, maybe get the bolt loose put the nut back on a few thread to protect the threads and use a pry bar against the nut, bracing somewhere on the frame. Put some anti-seize on the bolt when you put it back in and maybe spare yourself the grief next time. 

Anyone knows a better way I'd be glad to hear it. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



I am restoring a '59 100-6 and I am having trouble getting the 2 big bolts out 
that connect the lower A arms to the frame. Any ideas? Thanks. 

Sent from my iPhone 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 08:07:05 2014
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 08:08:41 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>,  AustinHealey List
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <3C36C85E-17B8-44D7-80B5-27FB6F7EEB17@visioncenterpc.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sawsall... :-)
On 10/19/2014 2:12 AM, Chris Scholz wrote:
> I am restoring a '59 100-6 and I am having trouble getting the 2 big bolts out
> that connect the lower A arms to the frame. Any ideas?  Thanks.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 08:51:43 2014
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 07:47:45 -0700
From: rkeysor <rkeysor@bellsouth.net>
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Stubborn bolts/nuts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have never done the task at hand but will report a study that came from a publication called something like Machinist's Monthly in which a combination of equal amounts of ATF and acetone proved superior to Croil and other dedicated rust-breaker liquids.  Croil has long been used to help free rifle barrels from gun receivers, those things generally being really torqued when they were installed.  There are countless old military rifles that pose a removal challenge. I now keep a small bottle of the ATF/acetone mix, though I haven't tackled anything very challenging using the mix. My Croil now sits on the shelf.  I can provide a reference to the study if anyone requests it.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 09:36:48 2014
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 11:33:56 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: rkeysor <rkeysor@bellsouth.net>,  "Healeys@autox.team.net"
 <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1413730065.7740.YahooMailNeo@web184701.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stubborn bolts/nuts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Testing Different Types of Penetrating Oils by Lloyd Bender
Machinist Workshop, Vol. 20 No. 2 Apr-May 2007

Just to correct the spelling, it's Kano Labs' Kroil.

With regards to the A arm bolts, there is a hole on the front (and rear) 
face of the shock tower that one can put a washer/nut/bolt arranged to 
push on the A arm bolt.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 10/19/2014 10:47 AM, rkeysor wrote:
> I have never done the task at hand but will report a study that came from a publication called something like Machinist's Monthly in which a combination of equal amounts of ATF and acetone proved superior to Croil and other dedicated rust-breaker liquids.  Croil has long been used to help free rifle barrels from gun receivers, those things generally being really torqued when they were installed.  There are countless old military rifles that pose a removal challenge. I now keep a small bottle of the ATF/acetone mix, though I haven't tackled anything very challenging using the mix. My Croil now sits on the shelf.  I can provide a reference to the study if anyone requests it.
> _______________________________________________
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From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "'Chris Scholz'"
 <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
References: <3C36C85E-17B8-44D7-80B5-27FB6F7EEB17@visioncenterpc.com>
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 08:57:49 -0700
Thread-Index: AQESXzqGaF3rB5A3ZeTreDgPXUbkNAHp40t/naNci6A=
Content-Language: en-us
Cc: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Make a fulcrum pin extractor like the one Bob is referring too and as shown
in this sketch that was provided by another lister a while back. Sorry, but
I forgot the person's name.

John
'62 BT7

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Fulcum pin extractor.doc]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 09:57:53 2014
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 09:00:48 -0700
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
To: "Healeys@autox.team.net" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] A arm bolts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The nut and bolt method that Bob Haskell suggests is worth a try- it worked on one out of four of mine.
Don't push it too hard though, or you can start to distort things. For the remaining three I had to use a sawsall.
It's a miserable job, but it's a pleasure to put the new parts in eventually...mind that if you get locknuts with the new bolts, there were some that did not travel over enough thread to truly lock. There was an email thread about this last year.
Good luck,
Stephen
BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 12:11:24 2014
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <3C36C85E-17B8-44D7-80B5-27FB6F7EEB17@visioncenterpc.com>
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 14:03:44 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Look here:

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/142125264


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Spaur
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2014 11:58 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'Chris Scholz'
Cc: 'healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm

Make a fulcrum pin extractor like the one Bob is referring too and as shown
in this sketch that was provided by another lister a while back. Sorry, but
I forgot the person's name.

John
'62 BT7

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a
name of Fulcum pin extractor.doc]
$12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 14:09:08 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 21:07:33 +0100
Thread-index: Ac/r2FHaIr/P00h4TjS0wYOvi7CHBA==
Content-language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop white
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A question I've been to ask for ages..............

My BT7 is Colorado Red over Old English White with a Colorado Red hardtop.

Occasionally I look at it and I think "God, I've created a giant coke can on
wheels".....you know, the red and white one.

I ponder changing the OEW on the car to Colorado Red and the hardtop to
white, per the Works cars. Was their white OEW? Or was it a whiter white if
you know what I mean???

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 14:39:42 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 21:34:50 +0100
Thread-index: Ac/r2FHaIr/P00h4TjS0wYOvi7CHBAAA5GJQ
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Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Hardtop white
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I was trying to say "A question I've been meaning to ask.."
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon
Lachlan
Sent: 19 October 2014 21:08
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop white

A question I've been to ask for ages..............

My BT7 is Colorado Red over Old English White with a Colorado Red hardtop.

Occasionally I look at it and I think "God, I've created a giant coke can on
wheels".....you know, the red and white one.

I ponder changing the OEW on the car to Colorado Red and the hardtop to
white, per the Works cars. Was their white OEW? Or was it a whiter white if
you know what I mean???

Simon
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 14:54:43 2014
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From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <000301cfebd8$534221e0$f9c665a0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 13:56:09 -0700
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hardtop white
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Simon:

You could always paint the car in Pepsi colours, or even better, in the 
colours of a good beer.  That would be an interesting Healey!

I'm attaching a couple of photos of my Colorado Red tri-carb with it's OEW 
hardtop installed - maybe it will help you decide what you want to do.  For 
what it's worth, I've always felt that the Healey roadsters look better with 
an (appropriately) contrasting hardtop.  If you are already OEW in the 
coves, you could simply paint the top OEW (it should match the OEW on the 
body), and see if you like it,  You could always paint the coves red 
afterwards.  I'll wager that the car will look spectacular with the coves 
and hardtop both white.  In any case, I don't know about you, but my 
Healey's hardtops spend their time in the basement in storage - I'll 
occasionally mount one of them for a car show simply to look a bit different 
once in a while.

I have often thought of painting my coves OEW - just about did it last year 
when I scratched one of them and needed some paint repair.

I know that the list will strip the attachments, if anyone else is 
interested, please send an e-mail.

Cheers

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Simon Lachlan
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2014 1:07 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop white

A question I've been to ask for ages..............

My BT7 is Colorado Red over Old English White with a Colorado Red hardtop.

Occasionally I look at it and I think "God, I've created a giant coke can on
wheels".....you know, the red and white one.

I ponder changing the OEW on the car to Colorado Red and the hardtop to
white, per the Works cars. Was their white OEW? Or was it a whiter white if
you know what I mean???

Simon

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCN1311.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCN1317.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCN1318.JPG]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 14:55:18 2014
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From: Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 22:57:59 +0200
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, 
 "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hardtop white
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OEW

Per

----- Ursprungligt meddelande -----
Fren: Simon Lachlan
Skickat: 2014-10-19 22:12
Till: healeys@autox.team.net
Dmne: [Healeys] Hardtop white

A question I've been to ask for ages..............

My BT7 is Colorado Red over Old English White with a Colorado Red hardtop.

Occasionally I look at it and I think "God, I've created a giant coke can on
wheels".....you know, the red and white one.

I ponder changing the OEW on the car to Colorado Red and the hardtop to
white, per the Works cars. Was their white OEW? Or was it a whiter white if
you know what I mean???

Simon
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per@schoerner.se
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 16:09:28 2014
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Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 18:04:17 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] New posting on my Blog...early Steering Wheel Hubs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=1314
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 16:56:37 2014
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 18:59:21 -0400
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] remote slave cylinder bleeder for AH 3000
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I purchased one for a Big Healey and one for the Bugeye from Doug Reid some
time ago. He was such a talented fellow.

Is anyone selling them now?


Lin
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 17:24:57 2014
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 19:27:44 -0400
References: <A550FF05-8722-4A3F-B1C6-01AD46DBD62A@mac.com>
To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] remote slave cylinder bleeder for AH 3000
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Thanks, John.
I looked at Tom's site and he does not list them, but I will call to see.

Lin

> On Oct 19, 2014, at 6:59 PM, Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com> wrote:
>
> I purchased one for a Big Healey and one for the Bugeye from Doug Reid some
> time ago. He was such a talented fellow.
>
> Is anyone selling them now?
>
>
> Lin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose@mac.com
>

Lin Rose
1959 AN5 Bugeye - pure driving enjoyment, go-kart with a body.
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" - owned since 1971, my first car and still have
it!
1964 Jag MKII - current project
1969 Mercedes-Benz 280SL
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 17:25:33 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
References: <3C36C85E-17B8-44D7-80B5-27FB6F7EEB17@visioncenterpc.com>
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2014 10:27:54 +1100
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Content-language: en-au
Cc: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

About 12 months back I was having the same sort of fun so I made up a
similar tool and despite being time consuming I did manage to get them out.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Monday, 20 October 2014 5:04 AM
Cc: 'healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm

Look here:

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/142125264


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Spaur
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2014 11:58 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'Chris Scholz'
Cc: 'healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm

Make a fulcrum pin extractor like the one Bob is referring too and as shown
in this sketch that was provided by another lister a while back. Sorry, but
I forgot the person's name.

John
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 19 19:10:05 2014
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From: "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2014 20:03:28 -0500
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To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
thread-topic: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
thread-index: Ac/sAYbbWq5Z7oC8RzCadszYgelJMA==
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The front suspension is in good shape. I will have the frame and suspension
blasted with baking soda and the frame will be primed and painted OEW. The
overspray can be handled and limited so it won't coat the suspension too much.
Then I could hand paint all the suspension pieces gloss black. I could then
leave the lower a arms attached.  Any thoughts?

Sent from my iPhone
Chris Scholz OD

> On Oct 19, 2014, at 6:28 PM, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn"
<p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> G'day
>
> About 12 months back I was having the same sort of fun so I made up a
> similar tool and despite being time consuming I did manage to get them out.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Sims
> Sent: Monday, 20 October 2014 5:04 AM
> Cc: 'healeys'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
>
> Look here:
>
> http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/142125264
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
> Spaur
> Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2014 11:58 AM
> To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'Chris Scholz'
> Cc: 'healeys'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
>
> Make a fulcrum pin extractor like the one Bob is referring too and as shown
> in this sketch that was provided by another lister a while back. Sorry, but
> I forgot the person's name.
>
> John
> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 20 06:57:51 2014
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2014 06:55:20 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>,  Patrick & Caroline
 Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
References: <3C36C85E-17B8-44D7-80B5-27FB6F7EEB17@visioncenterpc.com>
 <1974327696.13277503.1413727702610.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
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 <9CECD715-94BA-4DFC-BA03-1DB9E7D508D7@visioncenterpc.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd use a more aggressive media to blast the frame. Soda will take forever.
On 10/19/2014 7:03 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:
> The front suspension is in good shape. I will have the frame and suspension
> blasted with baking soda and the frame will be primed and painted OEW. The
> overspray can be handled and limited so it won't coat the suspension too much.
> Then I could hand paint all the suspension pieces gloss black. I could then
> leave the lower a arms attached.  Any thoughts?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Chris Scholz OD
>
>> On Oct 19, 2014, at 6:28 PM, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn"
> <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>> G'day
>>
>> About 12 months back I was having the same sort of fun so I made up a
>> similar tool and despite being time consuming I did manage to get them out.
>>
>> Hoo Roo
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
> Sims
>> Sent: Monday, 20 October 2014 5:04 AM
>> Cc: 'healeys'
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
>>
>> Look here:
>>
>> http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/142125264
>>
>>
>> John Sims, BN6
>> Aberdeen, NJ
>>
>> www.healey6.com
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
>> Spaur
>> Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2014 11:58 AM
>> To: 'Bob Spidell'; 'Chris Scholz'
>> Cc: 'healeys'
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Remove bolts lower A arm
>>
>> Make a fulcrum pin extractor like the one Bob is referring too and as shown
>> in this sketch that was provided by another lister a while back. Sorry, but
>> I forgot the person's name.
>>
>> John
>> '62 BT7
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drscholz@visioncenterpc.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 20 12:00:06 2014
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2014 08:02:47 -1000
From: Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Running Temps--Was: Re: Aluminum Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I fabricated a sheet metal pan [ for my BT7 ]  to fill the space between
the front shroud and frame below the radiator. the air that comes in the
grill goes thru the radiator instead of under the car. the pan is 16 3/4"
wide, 13 1/2" front/back. A 1 1/2" lip on the back fastens it to the frame
rail. A  2 1/4" hole is located for the radiator drain. Stock radiator and
a 6 blade alum. fan from Norm Nock. No cooling problems. Aloha, Jim

> > doesn't. Our BN2 behaves the same way.
> >
> > The only comparison I can think of is air-cooled aircraft engines, which
> > usually have an oil cooler. There is a valve called a
> > Vernatherm--essentially a bi-metal strip--that closes off oil flow to the
> > oil cooler radiator to allow the engine to warm to operating temperature
> > before the cooler is brought 'online.' But, an air-cooled engine can
> > dissipate a lot more heat than an Austin lump.
> >
> > Is it possible the huge chunk of iron in front could be 'self-cooling' to
> > a point then, beyond that point, even with wide-open thermostat, cannot
> > maintain a set temperature? My guess is that at speed there is sufficient
> > airflow to cool the engine--even below the thermostat set point--but once
> > stuck in traffic or with a load there isn't enough excess airflow and the
> > cooling system's capability is exceeded (as Kees mentioned).
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> >
> >
> > In general the temperature should be more or less constant under any
> > condition, just slightly above the opening temperature of the
> > thermostat. If the temperature shows to be lower than the thermostat
> > opening temperature the thermostat is at fault or is the wrong type (it
> > should be of the sleeved type), assuming the heater is turned off. If
> > very cold, with the heater plus heater fan on maximum, the temperature
> > could drop below the opening temperature of the thermostat.
> > If the temperature increases significantly the cooling capacity is
> > insufficient because of blockages/dirt, faulty water pump or the wrong
> > radiator capacity.
> > Older cars can have insufficient cooling capacity at low speeds/engine
> > revs, hence the advise to fit a thermostatically controlled electric fan
> > when the car is used in modern traffic.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kimobriske@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 21 15:43:23 2014
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From: <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 17:23:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] poster
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Several years ago a poster by Ian Nelson was available cc to the AH Club of
America, a profile of a healey.

Does anybody have a shot of this? I used it as wall paper until my hard drive
crashed the other day and I canbt retrieve it.

Please send it to ruvino@ripnet.com.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 21 15:44:22 2014
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From: <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 17:26:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] correction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Sorry AH Club USA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 21 19:43:53 2014
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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 20:31:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: llennep@verizon.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 1960 BN7 for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,
 
It is with sadness that I bring this message.  My 1960 BN7 "Patches" is for sale.  It has undergone a ground up restoration ending in 2001 having owned it since 1993.  Still in excellent condition.  Guard red (Porsche red) with two longitudinal reacing stripes down center.  Red leather and vinyl interior.  Lots of unique design features including spin on oil filter adaptor, cold air box, interior light, original Derrington steering wheel and more.
 
Price $49000.  If you would like further info, a few pix or come to VA to view it please respond to this email offlist.  PLEASE SERIOUS INQUIRIES ONLY.  NO FISHING.  NO GAMES.
 
Keith Pennell
Newport News VA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 23 13:26:58 2014
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Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2014 20:07:28 +0100
From: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anybody know what the standard dwell angle should be for a unmodified BN
1

Thanks

Stephen
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 23 14:43:07 2014
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Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2014 14:29:42 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>, 
 "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1414091248.34785.YahooMailNeo@web87403.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
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38 degrees
On 10/23/2014 1:07 PM, STEPHEN CUSS wrote:
> Does anybody know what the standard dwell angle should be for a unmodified BN
> 1
>
> Thanks
>
> Stephen
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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>
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 23 15:13:12 2014
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Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2014 16:57:10 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Don't like to disagree with Dave but I think the BN1 has a Lucas 40321A
Model DM2P4 distributor which has CCW rotation and uses a standard "High
Lift Cam", 0.015" contact breaker gap which will have a closed period
(dwell) of 60 degrees + or - 3 degrees.

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Thu, Oct 23, 2014 at 3:07 PM, STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com
> wrote:

> Does anybody know what the standard dwell angle should be for a unmodified
> BN
> 1
>
> Thanks
>
> Stephen
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2014 23:01:33 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1414091248.34785.YahooMailNeo@web87403.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
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The dwell angle on a 4-cyl. engine is usually around 600.
Kees Oudesluijs


STEPHEN CUSS schreef op 23-10-2014 21:07:
> Does anybody know what the standard dwell angle should be for a unmodified BN
> 1
>
> Thanks
>
> Stephen
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>
>
> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG -www.avg.com
> Versie: 2015.0.5315 / Virusdatabase: 4181/8438 - datum van uitgifte: 10/23/14
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From: "Team.net" <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
References: <1414091248.34785.YahooMailNeo@web87403.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
 <54496CAD.4020103@chello.nl>
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2014 19:24:52 -0400
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

600?

> On Oct 23, 2014, at 5:01 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
> The dwell angle on a 4-cyl. engine is usually around 600.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> STEPHEN CUSS schreef op 23-10-2014 21:07:
>> Does anybody know what the standard dwell angle should be for a unmodified
BN
>> 1
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Stephen
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>
chello.nl
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG -www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2015.0.5315 / Virusdatabase: 4181/8438 - datum van uitgifte:
10/23/14
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 23 18:32:15 2014
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Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2014 18:15:45 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>, 
 "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1414091248.34785.YahooMailNeo@web87403.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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...what I posted is the cam angle.. This can vary a bit depending on 
what cam is fitted.. If Healey (for instance) used a "high lift cam" 
then the dwell would be closer to 60 degrees.
  Since the cam is what ever is fitted, then one must set the gap. The 
wider the gap, the less the dwell and vice versa..
  As a rule I tend to set the gap on the wide side to compensate for 
worn cams and/or bushings.. The number I posted is from the Lucas book..
dave
... on the other hand, using an old fashioned dwell meter, the number that c
comes to mind is in the 52 neighborhood.. but haven't used one for years..

On 10/23/2014 1:07 PM, STEPHEN CUSS wrote:
> Does anybody know what the standard dwell angle should be for a unmodified BN
> 1
>
> Thanks
>
> Stephen
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 23 19:48:24 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Listers in Louisville KY
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Listers in the Louisville Kentucky area. Is there someone out there who would be willing to take a look at a nonHealey at a dealership in Radcliff for me? Will give more detail when I get a volunteer.  Next day or two if possible please.

Thanks in advance to whoever you are
Keith
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 24 01:21:42 2014
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From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: "Team.net" <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>
References: <1414091248.34785.YahooMailNeo@web87403.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
 <54496CAD.4020103@chello.nl>
 <48EA4C12-A622-45CD-AEC1-7C52F8063487@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Apparently the sign for degrees turns into a 0 in firefox. So it should 
of course read 60 degrees.
Kees Oudesluijs


Team.net schreef op 24-10-2014 1:24:
> 600?
>
>> On Oct 23, 2014, at 5:01 PM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>>
>> The dwell angle on a 4-cyl. engine is usually around 600.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>> STEPHEN CUSS schreef op 23-10-2014 21:07:
>>> Does anybody know what the standard dwell angle should be for a unmodified BN
>>> 1
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Stephen
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>>> Gecontroleerd door AVG -www.avg.com
>>> Versie: 2015.0.5315 / Virusdatabase: 4181/8438 - datum van uitgifte: 10/23/14
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>>
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>>
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>>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2015.0.5315 / Virusdatabase: 4189/8443 - datum van uitgifte: 10/24/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 24 04:22:40 2014
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Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 05:57:41 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: llennep@verizon.net, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Listers in Louisville KY
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Keith,

The Bluegrass club has quite a few members in Louisville 
(http://bluegrassclub.com/). Jim Werner is on this list.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 10/23/2014 09:35 PM, llennep@verizon.net wrote:
> Listers in the Louisville Kentucky area. Is there someone out there who would be willing to take a look at a nonHealey at a dealership in Radcliff for me? Will give more detail when I get a volunteer.  Next day or two if possible please.
>
> Thanks in advance to whoever you are
> Keith
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 24 07:39:11 2014
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From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>, 
 "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1414091248.34785.YahooMailNeo@web87403.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
 <54499A31.2060206@porterscustom.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

oh geeze.. hope this doesn't turn into a 'what oil' or 'what tires' 
thing.. anyway it has made me think and start reading (easy with 
computers these days). problem is separating machinist think from 
mechanic think, I think. ;~)
  Any way here is a short explanation for all of us directly from the 
Internet I found this morning:

When the distributor shaft is rotating, the contact-breaker points open 
as the heel of the moving point is pushed outwards by a lobe of the cam, 
and close while it is over the flat area between two lobes.

If, for example, the angle of rotation between the centres of the lobes 
on the cam is 90 degrees, the dwell angle - the period with the arm over 
the flats and the points closed - may be 52 degrees; the remaining 38 
degrees are taken up by the action of opening and closing. This would be 
a typical dwell angle for a four-cylinder engine 
<http://www.howacarworks.com/basics/the-engine>.

A dwell meter connected between the distributor or ignition coil and 
earth registers the dwell angle on a scale, and must remain steady at 
the prescribed figure while the engine is running. If the dwell angle is 
not the same for all cylinders, the result is rough running and poor 
fuel economy because the moment the spark-plug fires varies from 
cylinder to cylinder.

The dwell angle varies according to the make of car; check it in a 
service manual. There are two scales on the meter, one for four-cylinder 
engines and one for six-cylinder engines. Eight-cylinder vehicles are 
taken from the four-cylinder scale and halved.

  End of article... I liked this one best as they use the numbers I 
posted yesterday that let me validate (personally) that I haven't 
completely lost my mind yet..:-)
   BTY, I don't ever disagree with Michael or Richard, Kees sometimes..
dp
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 24 08:09:42 2014
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Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 07:17:12 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>, 
 "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1414091248.34785.YahooMailNeo@web87403.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
 <54499A31.2060206@porterscustom.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Damn... I am losing it.. so, now the 38 degree thing is (in typical 
British fashion-opposite) the degrees that the points are open.
  Finally, if anyone has an easy way to determine the difference between 
a standard or high lift cam visually I'm all ears. Would also like to 
know the reasons for fitting different cams... I'm out of reading time 
for the day..
dave
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 24 08:39:42 2014
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Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 13:54:25 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
References: <1414091248.34785.YahooMailNeo@web87403.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
 <54499A31.2060206@porterscustom.com>
 <544A4EFB.5020007@porterscustom.com>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Thread-Index: 9xMGam0owNvRIpQwV2/EBftIs3w5hA==
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>,
 STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, the 'solution' is obvious: you just have to measure dwell at specific lift, like camshafts (usually 0.050" lift). 

Half kidding. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



oh geeze.. hope this doesn't turn into a 'what oil' or 'what tires' 
thing.. anyway it has made me think and start reading (easy with 
computers these days). problem is separating machinist think from 
mechanic think, I think. ;~) 
Any way here is a short explanation for all of us directly from the 
Internet I found this morning: 

When the distributor shaft is rotating, the contact-breaker points open 
as the heel of the moving point is pushed outwards by a lobe of the cam, 
and close while it is over the flat area between two lobes. 

If, for example, the angle of rotation between the centres of the lobes 
on the cam is 90 degrees, the dwell angle - the period with the arm over 
the flats and the points closed - may be 52 degrees; the remaining 38 
degrees are taken up by the action of opening and closing. This would be 
a typical dwell angle for a four-cylinder engine 
<http://www.howacarworks.com/basics/the-engine>. 

A dwell meter connected between the distributor or ignition coil and 
earth registers the dwell angle on a scale, and must remain steady at 
the prescribed figure while the engine is running. If the dwell angle is 
not the same for all cylinders, the result is rough running and poor 
fuel economy because the moment the spark-plug fires varies from 
cylinder to cylinder. 

The dwell angle varies according to the make of car; check it in a 
service manual. There are two scales on the meter, one for four-cylinder 
engines and one for six-cylinder engines. Eight-cylinder vehicles are 
taken from the four-cylinder scale and halved. 

End of article... I liked this one best as they use the numbers I 
posted yesterday that let me validate (personally) that I haven't 
completely lost my mind yet..:-) 
BTY, I don't ever disagree with Michael or Richard, Kees sometimes.. 
dp 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 24 09:09:53 2014
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
References: <1414091248.34785.YahooMailNeo@web87403.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
 <54499A31.2060206@porterscustom.com>
 <544A5158.5000303@porterscustom.com>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Thread-Index: Wl7Tp2im1I4dGHKUEQwcIWK/09Q0UA==
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>,
 STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

OK, I'll bite. What does distributor dwell have to do with the lift of the cam? My understanding is dwell angle is basically optimized to provide an optimal time period to charge the primary circuit in the coil to an optimum value to produce the best spark from the secondary circuit (at least, within a fairly narrow range of engine speed). Dwell, in time duration, may be too long at slow speeds--which is why coils tend to heat up if idling for too long--and too short at high RPMs (which is one of the primary advantages of some electronic ignitions--they can keep a constant time duration throughout the range of engine speeds). 

What am I missing? 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



Damn... I am losing it.. so, now the 38 degree thing is (in typical 
British fashion-opposite) the degrees that the points are open. 
Finally, if anyone has an easy way to determine the difference between 
a standard or high lift cam visually I'm all ears. Would also like to 
know the reasons for fitting different cams... I'm out of reading time 
for the day.. 
dave 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 24 09:41:43 2014
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Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 17:15:08 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1414091248.34785.YahooMailNeo@web87403.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
 <54499A31.2060206@porterscustom.com>
 <544A4EFB.5020007@porterscustom.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It seems that there are two dwell angles for 4-cyl. cars. ca. 60 degrees 
and ca. 52 degrees. 60 degrees is used most on EU cars with high lift 
cams in the distributor (whatever that means). On the Lucas 23/25D4 (on 
my cars) and 43/45D4 distributors it is 60 degrees.

Just as well David does not always agree with me. I do not pretend to be 
always right. I am only human. However there is often room for 
discussion and the truth can be both ways.

Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs


David Porter schreef op 24-10-2014 15:07:
> oh geeze.. hope this doesn't turn into a 'what oil' or 'what tires'
> thing.. anyway it has made me think and start reading (easy with
> computers these days). problem is separating machinist think from
> mechanic think, I think. ;~)
>    Any way here is a short explanation for all of us directly from the
> Internet I found this morning:
>
> When the distributor shaft is rotating, the contact-breaker points open
> as the heel of the moving point is pushed outwards by a lobe of the cam,
> and close while it is over the flat area between two lobes.
>
> If, for example, the angle of rotation between the centres of the lobes
> on the cam is 90 degrees, the dwell angle - the period with the arm over
> the flats and the points closed - may be 52 degrees; the remaining 38
> degrees are taken up by the action of opening and closing. This would be
> a typical dwell angle for a four-cylinder engine
> <http://www.howacarworks.com/basics/the-engine>.
>
> A dwell meter connected between the distributor or ignition coil and
> earth registers the dwell angle on a scale, and must remain steady at
> the prescribed figure while the engine is running. If the dwell angle is
> not the same for all cylinders, the result is rough running and poor
> fuel economy because the moment the spark-plug fires varies from
> cylinder to cylinder.
>
> The dwell angle varies according to the make of car; check it in a
> service manual. There are two scales on the meter, one for four-cylinder
> engines and one for six-cylinder engines. Eight-cylinder vehicles are
> taken from the four-cylinder scale and halved.
>
>    End of article... I liked this one best as they use the numbers I
> posted yesterday that let me validate (personally) that I haven't
> completely lost my mind yet..:-)
>     BTY, I don't ever disagree with Michael or Richard, Kees sometimes..
> dp
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1414091248.34785.YahooMailNeo@web87403.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
 <54499A31.2060206@porterscustom.com>
 <544A5158.5000303@porterscustom.com>
 <1475006163.253357.1414160357917.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Could it be that the hight of the cam lift has something to do with the 
speed of contact breaking and thus the strength of the spark?
Kees Oudesluijs


Bob Spidell schreef op 24-10-2014 16:19:
> OK, I'll bite. What does distributor dwell have to do with the lift of the cam? My understanding is dwell angle is basically optimized to provide an optimal time period to charge the primary circuit in the coil to an optimum value to produce the best spark from the secondary circuit (at least, within a fairly narrow range of engine speed). Dwell, in time duration, may be too long at slow speeds--which is why coils tend to heat up if idling for too long--and too short at high RPMs (which is one of the primary advantages of some electronic ignitions--they can keep a constant time duration throughout the range of engine speeds).
>
> What am I missing?
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
> Damn... I am losing it.. so, now the 38 degree thing is (in typical
> British fashion-opposite) the degrees that the points are open.
> Finally, if anyone has an easy way to determine the difference between
> a standard or high lift cam visually I'm all ears. Would also like to
> know the reasons for fitting different cams... I'm out of reading time
> for the day..
> dave
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2015.0.5315 / Virusdatabase: 4189/8444 - datum van uitgifte: 10/24/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 24 15:40:14 2014
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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 14:02:55 -0700
thread-index: Ac/vzcQSvUSKAwx4TOaHax9h4bMGbA==
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Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Windshield top Rail Needed
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My plating shop has lost the top rail for my windshield.

If anybody has a spare to purchase, please contact me offline

jpaynepbr@cox.net

Thanks,

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 24 17:56:15 2014
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 <544A5158.5000303@porterscustom.com>
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Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2014 19:04:58 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dwell angle for standard BN1 100/4
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry I mentioned the "High Lift Cam" issue with regard to Lucas
distributors but is an effort to pour some oil on troubled waters let me
see if I can explain.
Lucas experimented a lot with various cam profiles in their contact breaker
type distributors.
>From what I can remember from courses many many years ago this was the
sequence of events.
Initially Lucas had "Symetric" distributor cams. These were designed to
open and close points with the available points springs and rubbing blocks
of the day up to the maximum distributor RPM without "points bounce" or
significant rubbing block wear.
Points bounce is the speed at which the rubbing block fails to accurately
follow the cam and the timing becomes unreliable. (This issue was addressed
by Lucas and other manufacturers by development of twin point distributors
but that is a different subject).
 These points used a gap of 0.011" and a dwell of 45 degrees. I am pretty
sure they were only used on pre-war vehicles.
Research proved that producing an "Asymetric" distributor cam profile
provided better control of the closing points and allowed higher RPM with
the available points springs and rubbing blocks. These cams still used a
0.011" gap but the dwell angle was increased to 49 degrees
Further development of points design produced a better type of rubbing
block material which allowed stronger springs so a "High Lift" cam design
could be developed which allowed larger dwell angles and distributor RPM
and it is these cams that are used in all Austin Healey distributors. These
use a 0.015" gap and a dwell angle of 60 degrees.
Hope that helps.

Michael S
BN1 #174



On Fri, Oct 24, 2014 at 11:23 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Could it be that the hight of the cam lift has something to do with the
> speed of contact breaking and thus the strength of the spark?
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Bob Spidell schreef op 24-10-2014 16:19:
>
>> OK, I'll bite. What does distributor dwell have to do with the lift of
>> the cam? My understanding is dwell angle is basically optimized to provide
>> an optimal time period to charge the primary circuit in the coil to an
>> optimum value to produce the best spark from the secondary circuit (at
>> least, within a fairly narrow range of engine speed). Dwell, in time
>> duration, may be too long at slow speeds--which is why coils tend to heat
>> up if idling for too long--and too short at high RPMs (which is one of the
>> primary advantages of some electronic ignitions--they can keep a constant
>> time duration throughout the range of engine speeds).
>>
>> What am I missing?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>>
>>
>> Damn... I am losing it.. so, now the 38 degree thing is (in typical
>> British fashion-opposite) the degrees that the points are open.
>> Finally, if anyone has an easy way to determine the difference between
>> a standard or high lift cam visually I'm all ears. Would also like to
>> know the reasons for fitting different cams... I'm out of reading time
>> for the day..
>> dave
>> _______________________________________________
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2015.0.5315 / Virusdatabase: 4189/8444 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 10/24/14
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 25 01:56:51 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 18:35:46 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac/wJMEoda5uxSl+TCup5wBUFB3fhw==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] Timber in a 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

Mike Salter has very kindly sent me some words and photos of the small
triangular piece of timber or wood that goes in the spare wheel recess of a
100.

 

Thinking about it I thought I would enlarge on Mike's words to include all
bits of timber in a 100.

 

As far as I know a standard 100 has the following bits of timber.

 

One piece directly under each sidescreen ferrel. (Four in total)

One piece in each door for the inner door trim.

Front of the soft top.

Piece behind the dash grab handle

Two pieces under each seat

Piece in spare wheel recess

 

I am sure I have missed some so would appreciate the advice of everyone who
knows, plus the variations between the early BN1s through to the last BN2s.

 

Many thanks.

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 25 02:57:47 2014
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References: <00d401cff026$4bbfd3c0$e33f7b40$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 09:15:24 +0100
From: John Harper <ah100register@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timber in a 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick

Spacer under bottom end of boot prop unit

Regards

On 25 October 2014 08:35, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> Mike Salter has very kindly sent me some words and photos of the small
> triangular piece of timber or wood that goes in the spare wheel recess of a
> 100.
>
>
>
> Thinking about it I thought I would enlarge on Mike's words to include all
> bits of timber in a 100.
>
>
>
> As far as I know a standard 100 has the following bits of timber.
>
>
>
> One piece directly under each sidescreen ferrel. (Four in total)
>
> One piece in each door for the inner door trim.
>
> Front of the soft top.
>
> Piece behind the dash grab handle
>
> Two pieces under each seat
>
> Piece in spare wheel recess
>
>
>
> I am sure I have missed some so would appreciate the advice of everyone who
> knows, plus the variations between the early BN1s through to the last BN2s.
>
>
>
> Many thanks.
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 25 06:43:16 2014
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References: <00d401cff026$4bbfd3c0$e33f7b40$@tpg.com.au>
From: Richard Korn <cynicbass@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 12:21:41 +0000
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timber in a 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick,

Plywood on the kick panels and trim panels behind the seats for the BN1. BN2
used a composition board.

Seat bottom frames are wood and there is a thin ply strip around the lower
seat back. I have photos when Peter Svilans restored mine if you would like.

The door panel is also ply through the BN2.

Regards from the far north,
Richard

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 25, 2014, at 7:35, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
wrote:
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> Mike Salter has very kindly sent me some words and photos of the small
> triangular piece of timber or wood that goes in the spare wheel recess of a
> 100.
>
>
>
> Thinking about it I thought I would enlarge on Mike's words to include all
> bits of timber in a 100.
>
>
>
> As far as I know a standard 100 has the following bits of timber.
>
>
>
> One piece directly under each sidescreen ferrel. (Four in total)
>
> One piece in each door for the inner door trim.
>
> Front of the soft top.
>
> Piece behind the dash grab handle
>
> Two pieces under each seat
>
> Piece in spare wheel recess
>
>
>
> I am sure I have missed some so would appreciate the advice of everyone who
> knows, plus the variations between the early BN1s through to the last BN2s.
>
>
>
> Many thanks.
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 25 07:58:29 2014
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Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 09:27:49 -0400
From: Michel Murphy <michel.murphy@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Rear wing fastner question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

I'm in the process of mounting the aluminum shut pillar covers on to the
door shut panel and I have a question about how the rear wing is mounted to
the door shut panel.  What fasteners are used?  Counter sunk, round,
pan/truss head?

Thanks,
Mike
--
63 BJ7
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 25 14:58:50 2014
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From: Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 15:35:51 -0500
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Can anyone tell me the title of the episode a month or so ago that had the
3000?  I missed it, and looking through the DVR re-runs I don't see any
episode with that.  They must have featured another car as the main feature.

Thanks,
Frank
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Oct 25 21:31:15 2014
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Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2014 23:16:49 -0400
From: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130215
 Thunderbird/17.0.3
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CALb451_DpRs2OgTzPQwh+PR+0S-O7XXToCWShGRzMH11eMy6uQ@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear wing fastner question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Countersunk 10-32's
Elton
On 10/25/2014 9:27 AM, Michel Murphy wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I'm in the process of mounting the aluminum shut pillar covers on to the
> door shut panel and I have a question about how the rear wing is mounted to
> the door shut panel.  What fasteners are used?  Counter sunk, round,
> pan/truss head?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
> --
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz@frontiernet.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 11:02:40 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2014 16:45:13 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac/xPDS6+yK9aV9fRsKDswjUCVPwyw==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been giving my MkII BT7 a very thorough - by my standards at least -
service...........

The only major issue, so far, is that both rear shocks appear to have lost
quite a bit of fluid in the last +/- 3,500 miles. I had them off 3,500 miles
ago; their action was poor but did greatly improve with replacing the old
fluid with new. The old fluid was pretty foul and there wasn't much of it.

(1)    I have heard that most shock absorber "rebuilds" are unsatisfactory
and presume that there are no new ones available. Any comments so far?  

(2)    I am tempted by the idea of a telescopic conversion. Specifically
from Ahead4Healeys:-

http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/TELESCOPIC-REAR-SUSPENSION-KIT-id3779.aspx

Does anyone have any experience of this product or its equivalent(s). I
looked at the one from Cape International which looks similar, a little
cheaper and a trifle flimsy:-

http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=36
<http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=36&thepart=RTC>
&thepart=RTC

Anyone know this one?  Or anyone else's?

Any general comments re rear shocks?

(I am based in the UK).

Thanks,

Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 11:47:57 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2014 10:29:44 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Peter Max Corvettes
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://jalopnik.com/infamous-vh1-corvettes-finally-getting-restored-after-r-1650284092
Infamous VH1 Corvettes Finally Getting Restored After Rotting In Garages
<http://jalopnik.com/infamous-vh1-corvettes-finally-getting-restored-after-r-1650284092>

Interesting story about historic cars

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

Your worst day at work is better than your best day in Prison
Darrin King
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 12:16:57 2014
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000c01cff13c$37c346b0$a749d410$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2014 13:54:47 -0400
Thread-index: AQKXHZV6QdbUEk5u9JVqLeu2kEXGqZq0UEeA
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I used World Wide auto Parts in Wisconsin for my rears. They are guaranteed
not to leak.

http://www.nosimport.com/

 Only on a thousand miles or so before I sold my BN6 so do not know if they
last HOWEVER they are highly recommended.

John Sims
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon
Lachlan
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2014 12:45 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion

I've been giving my MkII BT7 a very thorough - by my standards at least -
service...........

The only major issue, so far, is that both rear shocks appear to have lost
quite a bit of fluid in the last +/- 3,500 miles. I had them off 3,500 miles
ago; their action was poor but did greatly improve with replacing the old
fluid with new. The old fluid was pretty foul and there wasn't much of it.

(1)    I have heard that most shock absorber "rebuilds" are unsatisfactory
and presume that there are no new ones available. Any comments so far?  

(2)    I am tempted by the idea of a telescopic conversion. Specifically
from Ahead4Healeys:-

http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/TELESCOPIC-REAR-SUSPENSION-KIT-id3779.aspx

Does anyone have any experience of this product or its equivalent(s). I
looked at the one from Cape International which looks similar, a little
cheaper and a trifle flimsy:-

http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=36
<http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=36&thepart=RTC>
&thepart=RTC

Anyone know this one?  Or anyone else's?

Any general comments re rear shocks?

(I am based in the UK).

Thanks,

Simon
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 12:46:19 2014
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Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2014 12:32:48 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>,  'Simon Lachlan'
 <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, healeys@autox.team.net
References: <000c01cff13c$37c346b0$a749d410$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
 <002401cff145$ef134a50$cd39def0$@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll second that recommendation. Having said that, I finally put the 
telescoping shocks on the rear of my 100 and really liked them..
dave
On 10/26/2014 11:54 AM, John Sims wrote:
> I used World Wide auto Parts in Wisconsin for my rears. They are guaranteed
> not to leak.
>
> http://www.nosimport.com/
>
>   Only on a thousand miles or so before I sold my BN6 so do not know if they
> last HOWEVER they are highly recommended.
>
> John Sims
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon
> Lachlan
> Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2014 12:45 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion
>
> I've been giving my MkII BT7 a very thorough - by my standards at least -
> service...........
>
> The only major issue, so far, is that both rear shocks appear to have lost
> quite a bit of fluid in the last +/- 3,500 miles. I had them off 3,500 miles
> ago; their action was poor but did greatly improve with replacing the old
> fluid with new. The old fluid was pretty foul and there wasn't much of it.
>
> (1)    I have heard that most shock absorber "rebuilds" are unsatisfactory
> and presume that there are no new ones available. Any comments so far?
>
> (2)    I am tempted by the idea of a telescopic conversion. Specifically
> from Ahead4Healeys:-
>
> http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/TELESCOPIC-REAR-SUSPENSION-KIT-id3779.aspx
>
> Does anyone have any experience of this product or its equivalent(s). I
> looked at the one from Cape International which looks similar, a little
> cheaper and a trifle flimsy:-
>
> http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=36
> <http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=36&thepart=RTC>
> &thepart=RTC
>
> Anyone know this one?  Or anyone else's?
>
> Any general comments re rear shocks?
>
> (I am based in the UK).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 13:01:41 2014
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From: Mark Goodman <mkgoodman@att.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2014 13:38:10 -0500
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Shock conversion kits
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am very pleased with the kit I purchased from Udo Putzke .  It is very well
constructed and he is constantly improving it.  It is very well thought out
and has given me over 7 years of great driving.

Mark Goodman
66 BJ8 35503
www.austinhealeyessence.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 13:02:19 2014
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From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
References: <000c01cff13c$37c346b0$a749d410$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2014 11:46:42 -0700
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon:

I agree with John re: World Wide for rebuilding the original shocks - many 
people on this side of the pond have had great success with them.  I have to 
think that there would be someone competent in the UK at rebuilding these 
shocks.  There is nothing wrong with the original lever arm shocks on these 
cars if they are in good condition (along with the rest of the chassis 
suspension components.)

Having said that, there is another option using specifically designed 
Bilstein shocks for the big Healey:

http://www.putzkes-fahrspass.com/eng/kits.html

Udo is a long time big Healey owner and has a background as a suspension 
engineer - his kit is well designed.  I installed one (both front and rear) 
on my recently completed BJ8 (phase II) and am quite pleased with the ride 
quality of the car.  I know several Healey owners that have installed these 
Bilstein kits in big Healey's over the years - everyone that I know of that 
has done so has been pleased with car afterwards.  I believe that it would 
be worth your while to investigate this conversion kit.

I'm not sure of the advisability of doing only the rear - someone more 
qualified than I would have to comment on that.  You don't want to risk the 
potential of unsafe handling!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Simon Lachlan
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2014 9:45 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion

I've been giving my MkII BT7 a very thorough - by my standards at least -
service...........

The only major issue, so far, is that both rear shocks appear to have lost
quite a bit of fluid in the last +/- 3,500 miles. I had them off 3,500 miles
ago; their action was poor but did greatly improve with replacing the old
fluid with new. The old fluid was pretty foul and there wasn't much of it.

(1)    I have heard that most shock absorber "rebuilds" are unsatisfactory
and presume that there are no new ones available. Any comments so far?

(2)    I am tempted by the idea of a telescopic conversion. Specifically
from Ahead4Healeys:-

http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/TELESCOPIC-REAR-SUSPENSION-KIT-id3779.aspx

Does anyone have any experience of this product or its equivalent(s). I
looked at the one from Cape International which looks similar, a little
cheaper and a trifle flimsy:-

http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=36
<http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=36&thepart=RTC>
&thepart=RTC

Anyone know this one?  Or anyone else's?

Any general comments re rear shocks?

(I am based in the UK).

Thanks,

Simon
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Subject: [Healeys] Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 16:43:34 2014
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Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2014 15:29:54 -0700
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay 100-4 Windshield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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I am having a hard time processing the price this windshield went for.

http://tinyurl.com/mjpb8en


Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2014 23:05:03 +0000 (UTC)
From: mike brooks <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, 
 Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Re -   Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon,
My BN2 failed its MOT test on aB  leaking rear shock just three years ago. I
then replaced both rear shocks with new ones after a phone conversation with
the guy at AHSpares who recommended new rather than recon. I've done several
thousand miles since then with no problems. There was also a noticeable
improvement in the handling after fitting the new shocks. AHSpares and
Ahead4Healeys still do new and recon units. I wouldn't go for telescopics as I
like to keep things original but that's a personal preference.B  Hope that
helps.
Rgds

Mike Brooks'56 BN2ScotlandB Reply to:B mike.brooks@alumni.warwick.ac.ukB 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 19:01:20 2014
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From: <healeyguy@aol.com>
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Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 00:32:30 +0000
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Well there was two newbie eBay bidders that dominated the 49 bids. That is all it takes for prices to spiral beyond reality.  Will say that having the parts re-chromed in not inexpensive.

Aloha

Perry











Mike wrote:





I am having a hard time processing the price this windshield went for.

http://tinyurl.com/mjpb8en
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeyguy@aol.com>, "'AustinHealey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1414362594.42470.YahooMailNeo@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
 <20141027010109.0ED422584991@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 12:10:46 +1100
Thread-Index: AQIZXtew40E4rQaQUc2UJ1Z+33D6ZQJTzCBtm52osxA=
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay 100-4 Windshield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Perry

Yes I noticed that the two main bidders were new to eBay. Certainly went for
a phenomenal price!

I buy and sell on eBay quite a lot and it never ceases to amaze me that some
folk just have to bid early and then like to see their bid stay at the top
of the list. Surely they realise that by bidding this way only increases the
final price?

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
healeyguy@aol.com
Sent: Monday, 27 October 2014 11:33 AM
To: AustinHealey List; Mike MacLean
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay 100-4 Windshield

Well there was two newbie eBay bidders that dominated the 49 bids. That is
all it takes for prices to spiral beyond reality.  Will say that having the
parts re-chromed in not inexpensive.

Aloha

Perry











Mike wrote:





I am having a hard time processing the price this windshield went for.

http://tinyurl.com/mjpb8en
$12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 21:44:22 2014
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2014 20:18:09 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac/xlKH/+VrFdxDdRZqcPOJKrHt0oA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Re  Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had to extensively rebuild the Cape rear setup as the lower mounts broke
on my BN6. See: http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_rear_suspension

 

I found Cape unresponsive when I had problems.

 

IMHO the Putzke Fahrspass kit is the way to go. There are many of these on
the road with no problems as far as I know.

 

 

--

Steve Gerow

BN6 with tube shocks
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Oct 26 23:43:31 2014
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Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2014 22:20:31 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, 
  healeys@autox.team.net
References: <00d401cff026$4bbfd3c0$e33f7b40$@tpg.com.au>
 s=q20140121; t=1414387234;
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Timber in a 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Small wood spacer on the boot prop rod bottom attachment.

Bob


On 10/25/2014 12:35 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
> G'day
>
>   
>
> Mike Salter has very kindly sent me some words and photos of the small
> triangular piece of timber or wood that goes in the spare wheel recess of a
> 100.
>
>   
>
> Thinking about it I thought I would enlarge on Mike's words to include all
> bits of timber in a 100.
>
>   
>
> As far as I know a standard 100 has the following bits of timber.
>
>   
>
> One piece directly under each sidescreen ferrel. (Four in total)
>
> One piece in each door for the inner door trim.
>
> Front of the soft top.
>
> Piece behind the dash grab handle
>
> Two pieces under each seat
>
> Piece in spare wheel recess
>
>   
>
> I am sure I have missed some so would appreciate the advice of everyone who
> knows, plus the variations between the early BN1s through to the last BN2s.
>
>   
>
> Many thanks.
>
>   
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 01:43:40 2014
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Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 18:13:24 +1100
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
 more information
Subject: [Healeys] pointless points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys, I enjoyed the discussion about dwell and the history with 
Lucas, I believe points are in fact history and the best small 
modification that can be made to any car with points is to replace them 
with a breaker-less system. There are a few options out there and some 
can be fitted to an original distributor. Keep in mind that any change 
in points gap alters your ignition timing, so from the time you fit new 
points your on a down hill slope in engine tuning as the rubbing block 
wears or the points arc effectively changing the gap. With a 
breaker-less system it becomes almost set and forget, no side load on 
the distributor cam will also reduce wear. The systems available with a 
slip on to the distributor trigger and a sensor that replaces the points 
base plate mean you can keep your points should it ever fail, and you 
can still use your original coil. Some modern technology is worth 
adopting for the sake of efficient engine operation, in my opinion this 
is one of them.
Cheers
Larry Varley
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 02:43:19 2014
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Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 09:18:45 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <544DF094.7000104@cosmos.net.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] pointless points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Indeed the best solution, there is one "but"": one tends to forget to 
look at the distributor altogether leading to insufficient lubrication 
and checking of the advance weights and shaft.
One step further is to fit the electronic distributor or conversion set 
from 123-Ignition, Stealth, Aldon Amethyst etc., on which you can set 
any advance curve you like using a lap top.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Larry Varley schreef op 27-10-2014 8:13:
> Hi Guys, I enjoyed the discussion about dwell and the history with 
> Lucas, I believe points are in fact history and the best small 
> modification that can be made to any car with points is to replace 
> them with a breaker-less system. There are a few options out there and 
> some can be fitted to an original distributor. Keep in mind that any 
> change in points gap alters your ignition timing, so from the time you 
> fit new points your on a down hill slope in engine tuning as the 
> rubbing block wears or the points arc effectively changing the gap. 
> With a breaker-less system it becomes almost set and forget, no side 
> load on the distributor cam will also reduce wear. The systems 
> available with a slip on to the distributor trigger and a sensor that 
> replaces the points base plate mean you can keep your points should it 
> ever fail, and you can still use your original coil. Some modern 
> technology is worth adopting for the sake of efficient engine 
> operation, in my opinion this is one of them.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2015.0.5315 / Virusdatabase: 4189/8460 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 10/27/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 02:44:28 2014
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  (PDT)
References: <544DF094.7000104@cosmos.net.au>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 08:23:47 +0000
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: 100healey <varley@cosmos.net.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] pointless points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have to agree with this. After years of resistance for originality
reasons I finally switched. In competition I was experiencing an engine
fluffing at high speeds, almost like hitting a rev limiter. My points were
gapped weekly and they were changed several times a year but I couldn't
solve the problem.

I went for the Powerspark magnetic system. Very simple to fit, no external
parts and very reasonably priced. Only B#29.00 in the UK. It is exactly the
same equipment as the Ignitor and also the Alden version, which is sold in
the UK for about B#80. There has been a huge difference in top end
performance with the fluffing completely eliminated. Another surprise was
how much smoother it is at low revs as well. The system compensates for any
problems caused by wore distributor shafts and provides consistent timing
across the whole rev range.

Derek

On Mon, Oct 27, 2014 at 7:13 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> Hi Guys, I enjoyed the discussion about dwell and the history with Lucas,
> I believe points are in fact history and the best small modification that
> can be made to any car with points is to replace them with a breaker-less
> system. There are a few options out there and some can be fitted to an
> original distributor. Keep in mind that any change in points gap alters
> your ignition timing, so from the time you fit new points your on a down
> hill slope in engine tuning as the rubbing block wears or the points arc
> effectively changing the gap. With a breaker-less system it becomes almost
> set and forget, no side load on the distributor cam will also reduce wear.
> The systems available with a slip on to the distributor trigger and a
> sensor that replaces the points base plate mean you can keep your points
> should it ever fail, and you can still use your original coil. Some modern
> technology is worth adopting for the sake of efficient engine operation, in
> my opinion this is one of them.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 07:58:41 2014
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References: <1414362594.42470.YahooMailNeo@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
 <20141027010109.0ED422584991@autox.team.net>
 <00bb01cff182$d82f6160$888e2420$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 09:44:17 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: AustinHealey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay 100-4 Windshield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Complete 100 windshield assemblies are becoming very hard to find with
matching parts (they are numbered sets) and having just gone through the
process of trying to make non matching parts fit together half decently I
can appreciate the value in having matching components.
Of course the description does not state that these are matching parts!!!

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Sun, Oct 26, 2014 at 9:10 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day Perry
>
> Yes I noticed that the two main bidders were new to eBay. Certainly went
> for
> a phenomenal price!
>
> I buy and sell on eBay quite a lot and it never ceases to amaze me that
> some
> folk just have to bid early and then like to see their bid stay at the top
> of the list. Surely they realise that by bidding this way only increases
> the
> final price?
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> healeyguy@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, 27 October 2014 11:33 AM
> To: AustinHealey List; Mike MacLean
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay 100-4 Windshield
>
> Well there was two newbie eBay bidders that dominated the 49 bids. That is
> all it takes for prices to spiral beyond reality.  Will say that having the
> parts re-chromed in not inexpensive.
>
> Aloha
>
> Perry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Mike wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> I am having a hard time processing the price this windshield went for.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/mjpb8en
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: <varley@cosmos.net.au>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <544DF094.7000104@cosmos.net.au>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 07:22:50 -0700
Thread-Index: AQJekAQRqE386K4TrXTfzvyTN4rQdJsmwpwg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] pointless points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And easy to fix in the field.  Just keep a complete spare in the boot since
they cannot be fixed in the field.  So buy two.

Cheers!

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry
Varley
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2014 12:13 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] pointless points

Hi Guys, I enjoyed the discussion about dwell and the history with Lucas, I
believe points are in fact history and the best small modification that can
be made to any car with points is to replace them with a breaker-less
system. There are a few options out there and some can be fitted to an
original distributor. Keep in mind that any change in points gap alters your
ignition timing, so from the time you fit new points your on a down hill
slope in engine tuning as the rubbing block wears or the points arc
effectively changing the gap. With a breaker-less system it becomes almost
set and forget, no side load on the distributor cam will also reduce wear.
The systems available with a slip on to the distributor trigger and a sensor
that replaces the points base plate mean you can keep your points should it
ever fail, and you can still use your original coil. Some modern technology
is worth adopting for the sake of efficient engine operation, in my opinion
this is one of them.
Cheers
Larry Varley
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
_______________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 14:35:25 +0000 (UTC)
From: Ron Mitchell <healeyron@yahoo.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,  Patrick & Caroline Quinn
 <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
References: <CAB3i7LJx0X_UH4ptsFKH17Hiz3GGNuOrL2=Uj61X0MSQOkGjtg@mail.gmail.com>
Cc: AustinHealey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay 100-4 Windshield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The price of unobtainium continues to rise.

     On Monday, October 27, 2014 10:02 AM, Michael Salter
<michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:


 Complete 100 windshield assemblies are becoming very hard to find with
matching parts (they are numbered sets) and having just gone through the
process of trying to make non matching parts fit together half decently I
can appreciate the value in having matching components.
Of course the description does not state that these are matching parts!!!

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Sun, Oct 26, 2014 at 9:10 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day Perry
>
> Yes I noticed that the two main bidders were new to eBay. Certainly went
> for
> a phenomenal price!
>
> I buy and sell on eBay quite a lot and it never ceases to amaze me that
> some
> folk just have to bid early and then like to see their bid stay at the top
> of the list. Surely they realise that by bidding this way only increases
> the
> final price?
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> healeyguy@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, 27 October 2014 11:33 AM
> To: AustinHealey List; Mike MacLean
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ebay 100-4 Windshield
>
> Well there was two newbie eBay bidders that dominated the 49 bids. That is
> all it takes for prices to spiral beyond reality.B  Will say that having
the
> parts re-chromed in not inexpensive.
>
> Aloha
>
> Perry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Mike wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> I am having a hard time processing the price this windshield went for.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/mjpb8en
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donationB  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 09:29:09 2014
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References: <544DF094.7000104@cosmos.net.au>
 <004901cff1f1$7d530980$77f91c80$@charter.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 11:11:09 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] pointless points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Do any of the recommended electronic systems require only one wire to the
distributor or, conversely, is there an effective way to make the system
appear to be completely original at least until the distributor cap is
removed?

Michael S
BN1 #174


On Mon, Oct 27, 2014 at 10:22 AM, Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
wrote:

> And easy to fix in the field.  Just keep a complete spare in the boot since
> they cannot be fixed in the field.  So buy two.
>
> Cheers!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry
> Varley
> Sent: Monday, October 27, 2014 12:13 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] pointless points
>
> Hi Guys, I enjoyed the discussion about dwell and the history with Lucas, I
> believe points are in fact history and the best small modification that can
> be made to any car with points is to replace them with a breaker-less
> system. There are a few options out there and some can be fitted to an
> original distributor. Keep in mind that any change in points gap alters
> your
> ignition timing, so from the time you fit new points your on a down hill
> slope in engine tuning as the rubbing block wears or the points arc
> effectively changing the gap. With a breaker-less system it becomes almost
> set and forget, no side load on the distributor cam will also reduce wear.
> The systems available with a slip on to the distributor trigger and a
> sensor
> that replaces the points base plate mean you can keep your points should it
> ever fail, and you can still use your original coil. Some modern technology
> is worth adopting for the sake of efficient engine operation, in my opinion
> this is one of them.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 09:45:39 2014
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Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 16:26:52 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <544DF094.7000104@cosmos.net.au>
 <004901cff1f1$7d530980$77f91c80$@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] pointless points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If the usual electronic ignition e.g Petronix fails you swap the spare 
the spare one (only two items under the distributor cap) within minutes, 
without little disturbance, if at all, of the timing. No need to replace 
the complete distributor plus setting the timing at all.
Kees Oudesluijs


Tracy Drummond schreef op 27-10-2014 15:22:
> And easy to fix in the field.  Just keep a complete spare in the boot since
> they cannot be fixed in the field.  So buy two.
>
> Cheers!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry
> Varley
> Sent: Monday, October 27, 2014 12:13 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] pointless points
>
> Hi Guys, I enjoyed the discussion about dwell and the history with Lucas, I
> believe points are in fact history and the best small modification that can
> be made to any car with points is to replace them with a breaker-less
> system. There are a few options out there and some can be fitted to an
> original distributor. Keep in mind that any change in points gap alters your
> ignition timing, so from the time you fit new points your on a down hill
> slope in engine tuning as the rubbing block wears or the points arc
> effectively changing the gap. With a breaker-less system it becomes almost
> set and forget, no side load on the distributor cam will also reduce wear.
> The systems available with a slip on to the distributor trigger and a sensor
> that replaces the points base plate mean you can keep your points should it
> ever fail, and you can still use your original coil. Some modern technology
> is worth adopting for the sake of efficient engine operation, in my opinion
> this is one of them.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2015.0.5315 / Virusdatabase: 4189/8461 - datum van uitgifte: 10/27/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 10:14:45 2014
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Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 16:02:27 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
References: <544DF094.7000104@cosmos.net.au>
 <004901cff1f1$7d530980$77f91c80$@charter.net>
 <544E643C.6080609@chello.nl>
  (Win)/8.0.7_GA_6031)
Thread-Topic: pointless points
Thread-Index: OnhhAZbdOZDGWEeT1mYS+QStVnQ+5A==
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] pointless points
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I did my setup with spade lugs so the swap would be even easier. 

Unfortunately, I have an older (10+ years) Pertronix installed and the newer replacement I bought recently has the sensor mounted in a slightly different location, which will require timing adjustment. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



If the usual electronic ignition e.g Petronix fails you swap the spare 
the spare one (only two items under the distributor cap) within minutes, 
without little disturbance, if at all, of the timing. No need to replace 
the complete distributor plus setting the timing at all. 
Kees Oudesluijs 


Tracy Drummond schreef op 27-10-2014 15:22: 
> And easy to fix in the field. Just keep a complete spare in the boot since 
> they cannot be fixed in the field. So buy two. 
> 
> Cheers! 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Oct 27 21:33:37 2014
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References: <544DF094.7000104@cosmos.net.au>
 <004901cff1f1$7d530980$77f91c80$@charter.net>
 <CAB3i7L+0X4ttSr2b_z+KS_frbNW7yhyNSoX30CxHWkSAE4qkOg@mail.gmail.com>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2014 20:11:36 -0700
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] pointless points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Shrink wrap


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 27, 2014, at 8:11 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> Do any of the recommended electronic systems require only one wire to the
> distributor or, conversely, is there an effective way to make the system
> appear to be completely original at least until the distributor cap is
> removed?
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 27, 2014 at 10:22 AM, Tracy Drummond <bighealey@charter.net>
> wrote:
>
>> And easy to fix in the field.  Just keep a complete spare in the boot
since
>> they cannot be fixed in the field.  So buy two.
>>
>> Cheers!
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry
>> Varley
>> Sent: Monday, October 27, 2014 12:13 AM
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] pointless points
>>
>> Hi Guys, I enjoyed the discussion about dwell and the history with Lucas,
I
>> believe points are in fact history and the best small modification that
can
>> be made to any car with points is to replace them with a breaker-less
>> system. There are a few options out there and some can be fitted to an
>> original distributor. Keep in mind that any change in points gap alters
>> your
>> ignition timing, so from the time you fit new points your on a down hill
>> slope in engine tuning as the rubbing block wears or the points arc
>> effectively changing the gap. With a breaker-less system it becomes almost
>> set and forget, no side load on the distributor cam will also reduce wear.
>> The systems available with a slip on to the distributor trigger and a
>> sensor
>> that replaces the points base plate mean you can keep your points should
it
>> ever fail, and you can still use your original coil. Some modern
technology
>> is worth adopting for the sake of efficient engine operation, in my
opinion
>> this is one of them.
>> Cheers
>> Larry Varley
>> $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 03:49:43 2014
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Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 20:25:43 +1100
From: J Armour <sebring3000@bigpond.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Chasing Classic Cars 100/6
 FILETIME=[29AD0BA0:01CFF291]
Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Classic Cars 100/6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Recently someone asked the name of the above episode featuring a 100/6.
Believe it or not I have just watched it in Australia.

The show was ' WHEELS AND KEELS'

Healey did not sell. Bidding stopped at  $50000.  Wayne said, it was the
best early model 3000 he had seen!

Joe
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 07:49:32 2014
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Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 09:28:21 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 parts book
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would like to buy a reprint of the factory 100 parts book.
Does anyone know where one can be purchased.. hard copy not digital..

Many thanks,
Michael S
BN1 #174
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 08:49:13 2014
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Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 09:29:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: llennep@verizon.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Headlight rim needed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Listers,
 
I am in need of a left side (driver) headlight rim for my 1960 BN7.  It must be in excellent condition, no rechroming necessary.  Ready to mount.  If you have such a thing please send me photos and your asking price with shipping to 23602.
 
Thanks
Keith
llennep@verizon.net
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 12:17:50 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1905746942.1083179.1414364703438.JavaMail.yahoo@jws11137.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 17:52:53 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac/xcUxBT1vM+WQwQtq92ivS1F08JgBYvqiQ
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] : Re -   Rear shocks,
 rebuilds or telescopic conversion AND "Rubber - engine mounting
 (rear). AND hose as a vacuum tool extractor.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

1)      Thanks for all the advice and helpful suggestions. Only one reply from
this side of the water so remain unsure as to who/where is best place for
rebuilds.

I should have mentioned that I have a Koni telescopic kit on the front
already. (On the car when I bought it. May be the so-called bKoni-Cloneb.
Not sure.) Anyhow, it has been suggested that telescopic at the rear might be
a good idea bearing in mind the front setup.

2)      Now, I was on the phone ordering the telescopic and the 4 rubbers for
the Gearbox Stabilizer. The chap said that he had the bits and did I want what
he referred to as the bOverdrive bufferb? In my parts book, itbs on page
A.18, part number 1A9209...plus bracket, plate, nuts, bolts etc.

Ibd never heard of this thing. He says that most people just find the
backing plate and wonder what itbs for as therebs no trace of the rubber
buffer, it having fallen off decades ago.

Can anyone tell me precisely where this thing is, how itbs accessed and what
it does? Seems to me that if itbs underneath, then it canbt buff up
against anything. AND, if it did buff up against something, how can one get at
it??

3)      I was hoovering out my front wheel arch just now with a short length
of garden hose taped into a powerful vacuum cleanerbs pipe/hose. (Quite
effective as long as you keep it clear of leaves and bigger pebbles). Anyhow,
I decided to stuff said hose down the black holes in the engine
compartment......the ones where all the spanners go. Anyhow, out came a B<b
socket which Ibd thought/hoped might be down there and a bonnet rubber
buffer thingie plus rivet. The latter must have been down there longer than
Ibve had the car...20 years+/-. (Just a passing thought/suggestion....might
be a PObs favourite spanner down there.....?)



Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 12:48:22 2014
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To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>,  "Healeys@autox.team.net"
 <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 14:41:18 -0400
References: <CAB3i7LLeWaQCwOc6MxetUJKYx3L3Z3VzmESwjoHEeTo-cD2hdA@mail.gmail.com>
 <544FA4F9.5060407@porterscustom.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 parts book
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes I understand that Dave, I have 2 originals but want to avoid damaging them
through everyday use!!
Michael S
BZN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Sent: b10/b28/b2014 10:15 AM
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 parts book

you know, I assume, that it's a pretty worthless reference for pictures..
On 10/28/2014 7:28 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> I would like to buy a reprint of the factory 100 parts book.
> Does anyone know where one can be purchased.. hard copy not digital..
>
> Many thanks,
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>
>

--
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 15:33:45 2014
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Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 11:36:36 -1000
From: Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 parts book
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi, I have a pristine condition AH100 service manual for BN1 part #
AKD4851, Green cover workshop manual. Do you need one ? Aloha, Jim

On Tue, Oct 28, 2014 at 3:28 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I would like to buy a reprint of the factory 100 parts book.
> Does anyone know where one can be purchased.. hard copy not digital..
>
> Many thanks,
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kimobriske@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 16:18:09 2014
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 (envelope-from <rchaskell@earthlink.net>) id 1XjF6s-0002Q2-Fk; Tue, 28
 Oct 2014 18:19:26 -0400
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 18:19:25 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.8.0
To: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>,  "Healeys@autox.team.net"
 <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LLeWaQCwOc6MxetUJKYx3L3Z3VzmESwjoHEeTo-cD2hdA@mail.gmail.com>
 <544FA4F9.5060407@porterscustom.com>
 <544fe371.4508320a.6011.4f80@mx.google.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 parts book
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

I'll swap my photocopy for one of your originals :)

I'll see if I can figure out who I got it from.  Nice, lay flat, binding.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 10/28/2014 02:41 PM, Michael wrote:
> Yes I understand that Dave, I have 2 originals but want to avoid damaging them
> through everyday use!!
> Michael S
> BZN1 #174
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
> Sent: b10/b28/b2014 10:15 AM
> To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 parts book
>
> you know, I assume, that it's a pretty worthless reference for pictures..
> On 10/28/2014 7:28 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
>> I would like to buy a reprint of the factory 100 parts book.
>> Does anyone know where one can be purchased.. hard copy not digital..
>>
>> Many thanks,
>> Michael S
>> BN1 #174
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM
> 87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 19:59:48 2014
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References: <CAB3i7LLeWaQCwOc6MxetUJKYx3L3Z3VzmESwjoHEeTo-cD2hdA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 09:58:00 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 parts book
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael b

I have a photo copy which I'm happy to lend to you let me know if you want
it.

Cheers,

Alan

On Tuesday, October 28, 2014, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I would like to buy a reprint of the factory 100 parts book.
> Does anyone know where one can be purchased.. hard copy not digital..
>
> Many thanks,
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 20:19:33 2014
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Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2014 22:22:30 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 parts book
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all who responded with parts book offers.. Doug has very kindly
offered to send me a copy.
Love this list...you guys are GREAT!!

Michael S
BN1 #174

On Tue, Oct 28, 2014 at 9:28 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I would like to buy a reprint of the factory 100 parts book.
> Does anyone know where one can be purchased.. hard copy not digital..
>
> Many thanks,
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Oct 28 23:49:12 2014
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From: David Leong <david@dleong.org>
To: "Healey List (healeys@autox.team.net)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Whose Healey was used for this?
Thread-Index: Ac/zPFqSFvUDhLW1QUK8xGVrkLbWew==
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 05:51:22 +0000
Accept-Language: en-US
Content-Language: en-US
x-originating-ip: [50.250.182.202]
Subject: [Healeys] Whose Healey was used for this?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liqoMjRT81A&list=UUCS1ZL9SgNsS4gvI1i0ydiA


Dave
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 04:05:07 2014
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 (envelope-from <rchaskell@earthlink.net>) id 1XjQAS-0005fu-Ix; Wed, 29
 Oct 2014 06:07:52 -0400
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 06:07:52 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.8.0
To: David Leong <david@dleong.org>,  "Healey List
 (healeys@autox.team.net)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <5fb922580b854d389cf0c25486545df4@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Whose Healey was used for this?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Shame, it had a V8.

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 10/29/2014 01:51 AM, David Leong wrote:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liqoMjRT81A&list=UUCS1ZL9SgNsS4gvI1i0ydiA
>
>
> Dave
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 06:30:43 2014
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Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 8:32:49 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>, David Leong
 <david@dleong.org>,  "Healey List (healeys@autox.team.net)"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Whose Healey was used for this?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Didn't sound like a V8 to me---sounded like a Healey.


---- Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net> wrote: 

=============
Shame, it had a V8.

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 10/29/2014 01:51 AM, David Leong wrote:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liqoMjRT81A&list=UUCS1ZL9SgNsS4gvI1i0ydiA
>
>
> Dave
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 07:15:48 2014
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Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 06:12:08 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 parts book
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Alan, nice to see you are OK.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
On Oct 28, 2014 6:58 PM, "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Michael b
>
> I have a photo copy which I'm happy to lend to you let me know if you want
> it.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Tuesday, October 28, 2014, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I would like to buy a reprint of the factory 100 parts book.
> > Does anyone know where one can be purchased.. hard copy not digital..
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 07:16:26 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 13:16:00 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac/xcUxBT1vM+WQwQtq92ivS1F08JgBYvqiQAClZAhA=
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] "Rubber - engine mounting (rear)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Didn't get any response re. this. Maybe it didn't get out or you're all
flummoxed? I can't believe it.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon
Lachlan
Sent: 28 October 2014 17:53
To: 'Healeys'
Subject: [Healeys] : Re - Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion AND
"Rubber - engine mounting (rear). AND hose as a vacuum tool extractor.


2)      Now, I was on the phone ordering the 4 rubbers for the Gearbox
Stabilizer. The chap said that he had the bits and did I want what he
referred to as theOverdrive buffer? Page A.18 in my parts book, part number
1A9209...plus bracket, plate, nuts, bolts etc.

I had never heard of this thing. He says that most people just find the
backing plate and wonder what it is for as there is usually no trace of the
rubber buffer, it having fallen off decades ago.

Can anyone tell me precisely where this thing is, how it is accessed and
what it does? Seems to me that if it is underneath, then it cannot buff up
against anything. AND, if it did buff up against something, how can one get
at it??
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 07:30:23 2014
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From: 'bluehealey' <bluehealey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 13:32:30 +0000
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "Rubber - engine mounting (rear)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Simon
There are 4 rubber bobbins associated with the tie bar. You probably have that
in place.
There are two rubber mounts for the rear of the gearbox. These mount to handed
brackets which in turn mount to the cruciform. You will definitely have them
in place.
There is a third buffer rubber - GBC251(AHSpares) which bolts the underside of
the overdrive to limit compression of the gearbox mounts. It is held, if I
recall, with two 1/4" short set bolts. No brackets or other bits needed.

AlanB - iPhone message.

> On 29 Oct 2014, at 13:16, "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:
>
> Didn't get any response re. this. Maybe it didn't get out or you're all
> flummoxed? I can't believe it.
> Simon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon
> Lachlan
> Sent: 28 October 2014 17:53
> To: 'Healeys'
> Subject: [Healeys] : Re - Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion
AND
> "Rubber - engine mounting (rear). AND hose as a vacuum tool extractor.
>
>
> 2)      Now, I was on the phone ordering the 4 rubbers for the Gearbox
> Stabilizer. The chap said that he had the bits and did I want what he
> referred to as theOverdrive buffer? Page A.18 in my parts book, part
number
> 1A9209...plus bracket, plate, nuts, bolts etc.
>
> I had never heard of this thing. He says that most people just find the
> backing plate and wonder what it is for as there is usually no trace of the
> rubber buffer, it having fallen off decades ago.
>
> Can anyone tell me precisely where this thing is, how it is accessed and
> what it does? Seems to me that if it is underneath, then it cannot buff up
> against anything. AND, if it did buff up against something, how can one get
> at it??
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 09:17:00 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 08:13:58 -0700
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, Ahealey help
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "Rubber - engine mounting (rear)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a new set of the rear transmission rubber mounts, if that is what
you are describing. I am using a Smitty kit, so do not need them. # 26 and
30 in the moss motors book
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28886

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Wed, Oct 29, 2014 at 6:16 AM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
> wrote:

> Didn't get any response re. this. Maybe it didn't get out or you're all
> flummoxed? I can't believe it.
> Simon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon
> Lachlan
> Sent: 28 October 2014 17:53
> To: 'Healeys'
> Subject: [Healeys] : Re - Rear shocks, rebuilds or telescopic conversion
> AND
> "Rubber - engine mounting (rear). AND hose as a vacuum tool extractor.
>
>
> 2)      Now, I was on the phone ordering the 4 rubbers for the Gearbox
> Stabilizer. The chap said that he had the bits and did I want what he
> referred to as the Overdrive buffer? Page A.18 in my parts book, part
> number
> 1A9209...plus bracket, plate, nuts, bolts etc.
>
> I had never heard of this thing. He says that most people just find the
> backing plate and wonder what it is for as there is usually no trace of the
> rubber buffer, it having fallen off decades ago.
>
> Can anyone tell me precisely where this thing is, how it is accessed and
> what it does? Seems to me that if it is underneath, then it cannot buff up
> against anything. AND, if it did buff up against something, how can one get
> at it??
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 09:31:56 2014
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 08:30:19 -0700
Cc: "Healey List (healeys@autox.team.net)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8tsV1p00g0NyJgq01tsWWZ>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Whose Healey was used for this?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's just the "Healey":

http://ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/Getting_Started_Healey_v8.mov



On Oct 28, 2014, at 10:51 PM, David Leong wrote:

> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liqoMjRT81A&list=UUCS1ZL9SgNsS4gvI1i0ydiA
>
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 09:33:18 2014
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 08:35:53 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Six Cars that Look Exactly Like Smiling People or Cartoon
 Characters
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://tinyurl.com/pwt9vtv
bb There is a frogeye in the mix. Some of these are a stretch...

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 10:16:40 2014
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2014 12:14:31 -0400
To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: "Healey List \(healeys@autox.team.net\)" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Whose Healey was used for this?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Who cares about the Healey--what about that woman!

On Wed, Oct 29, 2014 at 11:30 AM, Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:

> Here's just the "Healey":
>
> http://ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/Getting_Started_Healey_v8.mov
>
>
>
> On Oct 28, 2014, at 10:51 PM, David Leong wrote:
>
> >
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liqoMjRT81A&list=UUCS1ZL9SgNsS4gvI1i0ydiA
> >
> >
> > Dave
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 21:33:09 2014
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2014 11:32:49 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 parts book
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Ira, been super busy at work and with the family, so I've just
mostly been lurking.  Glad to see all is well with everyone!

On Wed, Oct 29, 2014 at 9:12 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

> Alan, nice to see you are OK.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
> On Oct 28, 2014 6:58 PM, "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Michael b
>>
>> I have a photo copy which I'm happy to lend to you let me know if you want
>> it.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 28, 2014, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > I would like to buy a reprint of the factory 100 parts book.
>> > Does anyone know where one can be purchased.. hard copy not digital..
>> >
>> > Many thanks,
>> > Michael S
>> > BN1 #174
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >
>> > Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Oct 29 22:49:25 2014
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2014 04:52:18 +0000
 FILETIME=[48A8C810:01CFF3FD]
Subject: [Healeys] Hexagon head setpin  -
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

List:
On early BN1's the door hinges have in addition of the four countersunk ,
pozidrive bolts holding the hinge to the door post, a hexagon bolt in the
center of the hinge plate. The Service Manual calls it a head setpin. Does
anyone know how this bolt/setpin is attached to?
I am assembling a door post right now, the early 100 have a reinforcement
plate spotwelded to the back of the door post, then the cage that holds the
tapped plate goes on and the tapped plate has that hole in the center but it
is not tapped, should it be?
Or is that setpin held by something else that is not there on the parts I
have.

Jean
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 30 12:13:24 2014
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2014 14:16:11 -0400
From: Wayne Schultz <waschu2@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb poor running
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

              I was stymied  by the poor part throttle response of my 
friends tri-carb Healey. I checked and rebuilt the distributor, checked 
the carburetors, mixture, cam timing, adjusted the valves, different 
coil, etc. Everything I looked at was in spec.   I then decided to try 
different SU damper springs. The original springs were the original red 
springs and measured at the proper 4.5 oz.  at 2 . 6 inches or so. I 
replaced the Red springs with Yellow  springs at 8 oz at 2.6 inches. 
Without changing anything else the results were dramatic. The power 
comes on smoothly and the hesitant and poor light throttle response is  
totally gone. Even with its early cam the car now feels pretty close to 
my own BJ-8 in term of drivability and power.  I can't tell you how many 
hours of trying to fix this problem were fixed with $20 worth of 
carburetor springs.  My advice to anyone with similar problems is to 
give the Yellow damper springs a try. Even if you think you tri-carb is 
running well give the Yellow springs a try. I did have to adjust the 
carburetor mixture a couple of flats to get the best idle after changing 
the springs.  I use 30# oil in the dash pots.

Wayne
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 30 12:44:02 2014
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2014 19:47:00 +0100
To: "Jean Caron" <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>, "Healeys, 
 Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Hexagon_head_setpin__-?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Jean,
The centre hole in the tapped plate should be tapped.

Josef Eckert
Germany

-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: [Healeys] Hexagon head setpin  -
Datum: Thu, 30 Oct 2014 05:53:06 +0100
Von: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
An: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>

List:
On early BN1's the door hinges have in addition of the four countersunk ,
pozidrive bolts holding the hinge to the door post, a hexagon bolt in the
center of the hinge plate. The Service Manual calls it a head setpin. Does
anyone know how this bolt/setpin is attached to?
I am assembling a door post right now, the early 100 have a reinforcement
plate spotwelded to the back of the door post, then the cage that holds the
tapped plate goes on and the tapped plate has that hole in the center but it
is not tapped, should it be?
Or is that setpin held by something else that is not there on the parts I
have.

Jean
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 30 12:57:32 2014
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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Wayne Schultz" <waschu2@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <5452806B.60808@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2014 12:00:33 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tri-carb poor running
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Your problem especially with the tri carb is that the carbs are leaning out 
due to the Ethanol in the gas today. What you have done is richened up the 
mixture off idle.

The best answer is to install the rich needles and the car will come to 
life.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: Wayne Schultz
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2014 11:16 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb poor running

Hi,

              I was stymied  by the poor part throttle response of my
friends tri-carb Healey. I checked and rebuilt the distributor, checked
the carburetors, mixture, cam timing, adjusted the valves, different
coil, etc. Everything I looked at was in spec.   I then decided to try
different SU damper springs. The original springs were the original red
springs and measured at the proper 4.5 oz.  at 2 . 6 inches or so. I
replaced the Red springs with Yellow  springs at 8 oz at 2.6 inches.
Without changing anything else the results were dramatic. The power
comes on smoothly and the hesitant and poor light throttle response is
totally gone. Even with its early cam the car now feels pretty close to
my own BJ-8 in term of drivability and power.  I can't tell you how many
hours of trying to fix this problem were fixed with $20 worth of
carburetor springs.  My advice to anyone with similar problems is to
give the Yellow damper springs a try. Even if you think you tri-carb is
running well give the Yellow springs a try. I did have to adjust the
carburetor mixture a couple of flats to get the best idle after changing
the springs.  I use 30# oil in the dash pots.

Wayne
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Oct 30 16:26:39 2014
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>, "Healeys, 
 Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2014 22:29:25 +0000
References: <BLU173-W11EA8B2ECE63CD28AD1DFDD19D0@phx.gbl>,
 <1XjukO-4SQ06S0@fwd36.aul.t-online.de>
 FILETIME=[F696A710:01CFF490]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hexagon head setpin  -
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Josef, will tap the new plates, sounds like this is what holds the
setpin.

Jean

> Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2014 19:47:00 +0100
> To: vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com; Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: AW: [Healeys] Hexagon head setpin  -
> From: josef-eckert@t-online.de
>
> Jean,
> The centre hole in the tapped plate should be tapped.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Germany
>
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
> Betreff: [Healeys] Hexagon head setpin  -
> Datum: Thu, 30 Oct 2014 05:53:06 +0100
> Von: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
> An: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>
> List:
> On early BN1's the door hinges have in addition of the four countersunk ,
> pozidrive bolts holding the hinge to the door post, a hexagon bolt in the
> center of the hinge plate. The Service Manual calls it a head setpin. Does
> anyone know how this bolt/setpin is attached to?
> I am assembling a door post right now, the early 100 have a reinforcement
> plate spotwelded to the back of the door post, then the cage that holds the
> tapped plate goes on and the tapped plate has that hole in the center but
it
> is not tapped, should it be?
> Or is that setpin held by something else that is not there on the parts I
> have.
>
> Jean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert@t-online.de
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 31 00:33:00 2014
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2014 17:35:44 +1100
From: J Armour <sebring3000@bigpond.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Nash-Healey
 FILETIME=[EA0A9580:01CFF4D4]
Subject: [Healeys] Nash-Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The October issue of 'Octane' mag has an interview with Paolo Pininfarina
and he recounts his father's involvement in, to them, a multi-national
project when of the 500 employees, only 3 could speak English.  To attend a
meeting in Detroit from Turin it involved 8 flights via
London,Shannon,Halifax,Nova Scotia and finally Detroit - in DC4s
At that time a collaboration between British, American and Italian partners
was rare.

Sergio Farina said " if we could do the Nash-Healey we could do anything"

PS in the same issue a bloke has written an interesting letter about the
works LeMans/Sebring Sprites.

Joe
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 31 11:50:01 2014
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2014 17:46:55 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac/1Mqd3gT8qD+uJT0eiDQSnvg1i7A==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Telescopic shocker
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

Ref all the previous toing aand froing on this subject, I have now installed
a telescopic shock to the LHS of my MkII BT7. (Awkward, but manageable).

On looking at the finished result I wonder if the manufacturer has labelled
the parts back to front. (They will go in on either side and, having worked
out what goes where, one cannot get it in wrong.....it either all lines up
or nothing lines up).

First of all does anyone have any pics? My kit comes from Ahead4Healeys; AH
Spares does the same (Danish!) kit. Pics of any kit would help.

What has got me thinking is this:- The bottom mounting on the spring plate
is towards the rear of the plate and the top mounting is in the forward
position so that the shock is very close to the rear bulkhead. The shock
sits at about 45degrees from axle to bulkhead. If one reversed the sides ie
mounted the so-called R(ear) R(ight on the car's LHS instead of the RHS,
then the shock would sit up much closer to the vertical.

I have checked with the supplier......yes, in their terminology Right is on
the driver's right as he sits in the car.

I doubt that I have made myself very clear, but it boils down to this:-

Is 45 degrees not a very shallow angle and is not something closer to
vertical better?

Do you have any pictures?

 

Thanks,

Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 31 13:07:43 2014
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References: <4A44F40471D80B418B0C39874148FCF00935E0AC@SBSERVER.deniswelch.local>
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2014 12:10:03 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: News from Denis Welch Motorsport
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Amazing video of a very fast Healey racing
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

Your worst day at work is better than your best day in Prison
Darrin King






---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: sales@bighealey.co.uk <sales@bighealey.co.uk>
Date: Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 12:00 PM
Subject: News from Denis Welch Motorsport
To:



       [image: Denis Welch Motorsport | bighealey.co.uk]
<http://www.bighealey.co.uk/>   *31st October 2014* 'Scorching' Algarve
Classic!
Portimao 17th-19th October 2014

The 2014 running of the *Algarve Classic Festival*, held on the 17-19
October at the* Autodromo Internacional do Algarve in Portugal *saw a total
of eleven grids and 14 races on track, nearly 300 international drivers and
over 170 classic race cars.

The *GT and Sports Car Cup race* was a highlight of the end-of-season
racing event for *Denis Welch Motorsport*. No less than forty five Pre-66
classics to include an array of AC Cobras, a very strong group of Jaguar
E-types, a few TVR's Grantura and five Austin-Healey's, lined up on the
starting grid to compete in this 120 minute race.

*Jeremy Welch *and *Mark Pangborn* drove an extraordinary race in Jeremy's*
Austin-Healey KVS484.* With fast laps throughout the 2-hour race, the quick
pit stops, close overtaking and a dynamic fight with fast AC Cobra's saw
the team move up from 18th place after the qualifying session, to
finish in *7th
position overall and 1st in the GT3 Class* - *Congratulations!*

Watch the first 3 laps of the GT&SCC race on *Denis Welch Motorsport
Channel >> <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FpVlANfPl8>*
  [image: Watch GT&SCC Race on our YouTube Channel | Algarve Classic
Festival 2014] <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FpVlANfPl8>

There were main driver changes in the team *Mills/Montgomery* - *Robert
Mills* couldn't take a part in the event, so passed the wheel to *Dave
Smithies.* After qualifying 42nd the duet *Smithies/Montgomery* fought hard
to move up a remarkable* fifteen places* in the GT&SCC race to finish *27th
overall and 6th in the GT2 Class* in Robert's Austin-Healey 100.

* It was a positive end-of-season race meeting with the benefit of
scorching weather and an enjoyable atmosphere.* Both Austin-Healey's
prepared by *Denis Welch Motorsport* ran smoothly with no repairs required.
  [image: Jeremy Welch/Mark Pangborn in 54 | Robert Mills/Ian Montgomery in
31]  *GT&SCC Qualifying* - Saturday 18th October - * 40 minutes*

  *Position* *Car No.* *Driver* *Co-Driver* *Car* *Laps* *Best time* *Best
speed*  *18* 54 *Jeremy Welch* *Mark Pangborn* Austin-Healey 3000 7
02:16.413 122.791 Km/h  *42* 31 *Dave Smithies* *Ian Montgomery* Austin-Healey
100 15 02:30.260 111.476 Km/h

*GT&SCC Race* - Sunday 19th October - *120 minutes*
  *Position* *Car No.* *Driver* *Co-Driver* *Car* *Laps* *Best time* *Best
speed*  *7* 54 *Jeremy Welch* *Mark Pangborn* Austin-Healey 3000 50
02:15.418 123.694 Km/h  *27* 31 *Dave Smithies* *Ian Montgomery* Austin-Healey
100 45 02:28.265 112.976 Km/h
*Photos: credits to Gbphotosports & Jim Houlgrave*

[image: Visit us at the Classic Motor Show - Hall 9 Stand 9-090 | NEC,
14th-16th November 2014] <http://www.bighealey.co.uk>


*If you wish to collect any parts from our Stand at the NEC please place
your order prior to 12th November* | *Parts Hotline: +44 (0) 1543 472 244
<%2B44%20%280%29%201543%20472%20244>*,
*email us: sales@bighealey.co.uk
<sales@bighealey.co.uk?subject=New+Product+enquiry>* or place your order via
www.bighealey.co.uk website.
*AUSTIN HEALEY* <http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/austin-healey-catalogue>*
| JAGUAR <http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/jaguar-catalogue> | MGB
<http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/mgb-parts> | MGC
<http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/mgc-parts> | FORMULA JUNIOR
<http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/formula-junior> | SPRITE/MIDGET
<http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/sprite-midget-catalogue> | LOTUS
<http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/lotus-catalogue>*
<http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/lotus-catalogue>



------------------------------

Disclaimer

This e-mail and any attachments are confidential and may be legally
privileged. It is intended for the sole use of the addressee and not anyone
else. If you receive this email in error, please advise the sender
immediately.

Denis Welch Motors Limited is a limited company registered in England and
Wales.
Company Registration No. 1314890
Registered Offices: Sudbury Road Garage, Sudbury Road, Yoxall, Burton on
Trent, Staffordshire, DE13 8NA
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Oct 31 13:20:53 2014
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From: "Bluehealey" <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: "'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <5453cca5.741d320a.4303.ffffb5a4SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2014 19:15:05 -0000
Thread-Index: AQJQ4pDK3goVPROYaYyS6BbqY381H5tIt+Qg
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Telescopic shocker
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You are quite right Simon.
Close to vertical is best.  If the shock is at 45degs at rest, a lot of
mechanical advantage has been lost. As the foot of the shock moves
vertically in compression (bump) then even more advantage would be lost
effectively reducing the damping rate.  Sounds wrong to me.
Best..............
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (______\__1957-BN4__1959-AN5__/______)
                       (_____BlueHealey.com______)

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon
Lachlan
Sent: 31 October 2014 17:47
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Telescopic shocker

Hi,

Ref all the previous toing aand froing on this subject, I have now installed
a telescopic shock to the LHS of my MkII BT7. (Awkward, but manageable).

On looking at the finished result I wonder if the manufacturer has labelled
the parts back to front. (They will go in on either side and, having worked
out what goes where, one cannot get it in wrong.....it either all lines up
or nothing lines up).

First of all does anyone have any pics? My kit comes from Ahead4Healeys; AH
Spares does the same (Danish!) kit. Pics of any kit would help.

What has got me thinking is this:- The bottom mounting on the spring plate
is towards the rear of the plate and the top mounting is in the forward
position so that the shock is very close to the rear bulkhead. The shock
sits at about 45degrees from axle to bulkhead. If one reversed the sides ie
mounted the so-called R(ear) R(ight on the car's LHS instead of the RHS,
then the shock would sit up much closer to the vertical.

I have checked with the supplier......yes, in their terminology Right is on
the driver's right as he sits in the car.

I doubt that I have made myself very clear, but it boils down to this:-

Is 45 degrees not a very shallow angle and is not something closer to
vertical better?

Do you have any pictures?

 

Thanks,

Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


