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From: "Craig Rice" <craigsuerice@iquest.net>
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Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary,

It appears you now have good info as to location of the BN1 plastic ID 
plate. If you want absolute location, look for marks left by the four screws 
on the metal frame behind the left kick panel. These marks were made at the 
factory when the ID plate was fastened to the kick panel. I have seen 
several BN1's with these screw marks.

Craig Rice
BN1 & BN2
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <warthodson@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 10:09 AM
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location


>I am preparing to have my early BN1, which is complete, but disassembled,
> shipped from Canada to the USA. I plan to apply for a "non-highway" title 
> in
> the state of Kansas when it arrives. I have the plastic ID (VIN) plate 
> which I
> understands goes somewhere inside the passenger compartment. Is there a 
> clear
> photo documentation available showing the location of this plate? Also, I 
> do
> not recall reading about this particular plate in any of the Healey books, 
> but
> I could have easily forgotten about that reference. If there is such a
> reference I would appreciate knowing where to look.
> Thanks,
> Gary H
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 09:24:08 2014
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Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 11:23:55 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 spare tire wedge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Page 199 of the 2014 "Concours Guidelines" describes a triangular wood
wedge used to position the spare wheel.
I would really appreciate any more information on this wedge. Photos,
dimensions?

Thanks,
Michael S
BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 10:15:25 2014
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location
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Thank you to everyone who replied to my inquiry concerning the BN1 data
location. I do have everything I need now & the photos were worth a thousand
words! I am anxious to actually see my BN1 which is currently disassembled &
in Canada. I am trying to make sure I have all the bases covered when trying
to leave Canada with a trailer full of car parts, entering the USA with a
trailer full of car parts & finally trying to title a 1953 BN1 (which looks
like a pile of car parts) in Kansas.

Gary Hodson


From: Craig Rice

Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location

Gary,

It appears you now have good info as to location of the BN1 plastic ID
plate. If you want absolute location, look for marks left by the four screws
on the metal frame behind the left kick panel.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 12:28:20 2014
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From: Charles Johnson <charles1783@charter.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 14:28:08 -0400
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] top on BJ7 attachment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am placing a new canvas top on a BJ7. The previous top has long since rotted
away. There is a canvas flap by the rear of the top, above where the rear
window attaches to the rear rib. The clips, seem to be only on earlier Bj7s.
My question is: Is the flap attached to the rear rib, or does it just flip
over the top of the rear plastic window? Thanks in advance for your answers.

V/r
CJ
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 13:14:03 2014
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Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Tech Session
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At Conclave this year Bruce Phillips & Tom Kovacs presented a Tech. Session on
the common problems they see in their shops & the proper solutions &
maintenance recommendations.
Does anyone know if this information was recorded & if there is any intent to
transcribe it into an article for the Healey Marque or other form of
distribution?
In a related topic, Bruce & Tom seemed to be in agreement that if you are
using points in your ignition the best points are by Blue Streak. Does anyone
know the Blue Streak part number(s) & if Blue Streak brand is still available
& where?

Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 20 14:36:17 2014
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To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,  "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Jul 2014 16:35:30 -0400
References: <CAB3i7LKhpr=iij1sKGRLBDmbgAvAZX8EFmM0fPLHuC2PC4AHzw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 spare tire wedge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Many thanks to all have taken the time to respond. I have all the information
needed.
Love this list.

Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Sent: b7/b20/b2014 11:23 AM
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: BN1 spare tire wedge

Page 199 of the 2014 "Concours Guidelines" describes a triangular wood wedge
used to position the spare wheel.

I would really appreciate any more information on this wedge. Photos,
dimensions?


Thanks,

Michael S

BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 05:43:34 2014
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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 07:43:14 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 86 Year Old Healey Guy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A great story about 86 year-old Don Bunker who's still driving the 100 he
bought in 1959 ... and also flies his own plane b a 1948 Temco Swift.
Here's to many more miles.
http://www.ocregister.com/articles/healey-627147-bunker-car.html
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 09:45:34 2014
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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>, "'JOHN BAHE SR'"
 <johnbahesr@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACCi48S4=Nc1ZHLkBZ+1Y=Kc2A1zHu-o4SHc41udZEnsVWA=Gw@mail.gmail.com>
 <003301cfa37d$871c6be0$955543a0$@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 08:45:20 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] vinyl piping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you are installing new alloy trim you need to trim it to fit the car 
first. Then glue the piping to the alloy trim and install on the car.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: john
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 11:16 AM
To: 'JOHN BAHE SR' ; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] vinyl piping

I installed new finish plates and piping on my BT7. It is probably easiest
to remove the plates to glue the piping in place as it should be. On the BT7
you need to remove a bit of the cord to get the piping to lay flat at the
upper part of the finisher where it is screwed to the cockpit trim. It will
be too thick and the door will hit it. It is easiest to do this and to get
the piping to bend with the finisher removed. Get new screws too because
they will most likely get damaged when you remove them and while replacing
them. Buy the correct size screwdriver if you do not have one. I bought a
Wiha 261 / PHO x 75. I believe it is a #0 tip but I am not sure. BTW, I did
not like the Moss screws because the head stripped easily. I used similar SS
ones from a local fastener company. Fastener companies will have the correct
screwdriver.

John Spaur
San Jose, CA
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 09:48:39 2014
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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Wilko2" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
References: <TkWX1o01b0NyJgq01kWZcP>
 <CEEBE383-D488-4CCD-9B86-0367F5BE6804@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 08:48:36 -0700
Cc: healeys List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 hardtop identification code
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The Longbridge cars did no have the option of the Hardtop. There isn't any 
place for the peg that comes out of the hardtop and goes into the tube 
socket directly behind the door.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: Wilko2
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 7:57 AM
Cc: healeys List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 hardtop identification code

Yes, and there should be another number on there that says which top it is.



On Jul 18, 2014, at 1:28 AM, Andy Thorp wrote:

> Hi Jim,
>
> I'm led to believe it is the 380th top made on 11/1957
>
> Mine was bought by the first owner three years later and is stamped
08602078
>
> Andy.
>
> --------------------------------------------
> On Fri, 18/7/14, jim lesher <lesherj@outlook.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 hardtop identification code
> To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Received: Friday, 18 July, 2014, 7:28 AM
>
> Where can I find the details that
> will tell me what the code means on the
> factory hardtop for my Longbridge
>
> the code stamped on the upper passenger's side aluminum trim
> is 01157380
>  if you want to see a photo of the code, just send me a
> note
> thank you for any information you can share
>
> jim lesher
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bce257@yahoo.co.nz
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
hardtop number.JPG]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 09:51:00 2014
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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Craig Rice" <craigsuerice@iquest.net>, <warthodson@aol.com>
References: <8D17172202BCC9A-2004-6AA2@webmail-m232.sysops.aol.com>
 <79F118EEFB684617A36558DC7CCF6588@CraigHRicePC>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 08:50:37 -0700
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We have just recently received the early plastic vin plates new.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: Craig Rice
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 10:54 PM
To: warthodson@aol.com
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location

Gary,

It appears you now have good info as to location of the BN1 plastic ID
plate. If you want absolute location, look for marks left by the four screws
on the metal frame behind the left kick panel. These marks were made at the
factory when the ID plate was fastened to the kick panel. I have seen
several BN1's with these screw marks.

Craig Rice
BN1 & BN2
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <warthodson@aol.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 10:09 AM
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location


>I am preparing to have my early BN1, which is complete, but disassembled,
> shipped from Canada to the USA. I plan to apply for a "non-highway" title 
> in
> the state of Kansas when it arrives. I have the plastic ID (VIN) plate 
> which I
> understands goes somewhere inside the passenger compartment. Is there a 
> clear
> photo documentation available showing the location of this plate? Also, I 
> do
> not recall reading about this particular plate in any of the Healey books, 
> but
> I could have easily forgotten about that reference. If there is such a
> reference I would appreciate knowing where to look.
> Thanks,
> Gary H
> _______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 17:53:10 +0200
From: Berry Mensen <berry@mever.be>
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Retractable safetybelts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

I was contemplating to install *Retractable safetybelts in my BJ8.*

*The problem (of course you know of this, listers) is the foldable
backrest.*

*Has anyone devellopped a system to install one and avoiding the
complication*
*of cutting into the backrest?*

*Thanks for your help*

*Berry *
*BJ8 35197*
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 12:10:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge Hardtop
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The Longbridge BN4 did have the hardtop.  It is listed along with the luggage
rack, wing mirrors (2), locking gas cap and cigar (!) lighter as an optional
extra.  It is shown as being in primer only.

It is part no. 27H 9892 in the red (Longbridge) Austin Healey 100 Parts List
which combines both the four and six cylinder cars, both called "Hundreds".

The Longbridge cars had separate little tubes bolted to the wheelarch (called
"location bracket, rail support for tonneau cover"), handed left and right,
over which the tonneau bar fitted.  There were two 100-Six tonneau bars,  one
for the Longbridge cars and one for the Abingdon cars.

Best
Peter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 12:23:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Retractable safetybelts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Berry,

I fitted a set for a customer, which sat on a heavy 10-gauge steel plate
bolted to the wheelarch at the normal fixed belt location. The plate was about
4" wide x 10" tall (can't remember exactly, just enough to clear the folding
backrest), plus the width of the mechanism,  bent 90 degrees towards the
inside of the car to provide a platform for the MGB retractors.

Best
Peter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 13:05:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] top on BJ7 attachment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Charles,

The top bows on the BJ7 are different than the BJ8.

Instead of the rear bow being just a plain tube as on the BJ8, the BJ7 rear
bow is quite busy.  It has a one-inch "J"-shaped flange welded to it, as well
as three locating brackets to take the removable rear window metal top bar and
the two plated clamp hooks.

The flap you're talking about wraps around this flange and is attached to it
with a row of push-on seat cover clips on the curled-over inside edge.  This
should put the bound top edge of the top window opening just a bit lower than
the rear top bow, enough for the rear window metal bar to tuck up under the
top, into the three locating brackets, snug up with the over-center clamps,
and still keep the rain out.

The clip-in window was changed to the zipper type in April 1963, six months
before the BJ8's introduction.  As well as the rear window change, the BJ8 top
also acquired rain gutters over the side windows.

There are a number of neat things about the BJ7, and one of them is the rear
window being a separate replaceable part without having to buy a whole new
top.

Best
Peter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 14:17:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] top on BJ7 attachment
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Looking at it again more closely, the one-inch wide "J" flange on the BJ7 rear
bow is actually pop-rivetted to the bow, not welded.  The clamp hooks are pop
rivetted also. The locating tabs are welded to the flange. Gotta get it
right.

Peter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 18:38:18 2014
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Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2014 20:37:55 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tires again!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have found that the 165 80 R15 tires I have for #174 will not fit into
the spare wheel holder...
I notice that BF Goodrich  sell a P155/80R15 Radial TA which appears to be
narrow enough (6.1") and small enough diameter (24.8") to fit into the
holder.
Has anyone tried those tires?

Thanks,
Michael S
BN1 3174
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 21 23:41:23 2014
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 07:41:01 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAB3i7L+qPZZcq+bgYtmfV5Qh1EMwAvMARoth6+c+_z=r40Tn6A@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires again!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The indicated width of 155mm is nominal and should not be taken exactly. 
It is measured across the walls, it is not the width of the thread. It 
can vary considerably between tire makes/types.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Michael Salter schreef op 22-7-2014 2:37:
> I have found that the 165 80 R15 tires I have for #174 will not fit into
> the spare wheel holder...
> I notice that BF Goodrich  sell a P155/80R15 Radial TA which appears to be
> narrow enough (6.1") and small enough diameter (24.8") to fit into the
> holder.
> Has anyone tried those tires?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael S
> BN1 3174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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>
>
>
> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7894 - datum van uitgifte: 07/21/14
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 09:08:30 -0400
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires again!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael--

Just for your info the 180-15 Michelin XAS's that I recently purchased not
only fit the 100's wheel wells perfectly but also the spare tire aperture.

And they drive great!

Best--Michael


On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 8:37 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have found that the 165 80 R15 tires I have for #174 will not fit into
> the spare wheel holder...
> I notice that BF Goodrich  sell a P155/80R15 Radial TA which appears to be
> narrow enough (6.1") and small enough diameter (24.8") to fit into the
> holder.
> Has anyone tried those tires?
>
> Thanks,
> Michael S
> BN1 3174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 07:16:22 2014
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 06:16:14 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>,  Michael Salter
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Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires again!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I can barely squeeze 165x80 Nexens in the spare tire slot, with much difficulty (and I opened the slot up a little by 
bending the flange up).

I can't see how a tire that claims to be 15mm wider can fit. Someone's lying about his dimensions (not you Michael, the 
tire).

Bob



On 7/22/2014 6:08 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Michael--
>
> Just for your info the 180-15 Michelin XAS's that I recently purchased not
> only fit the 100's wheel wells perfectly but also the spare tire aperture.
>
> And they drive great!
>
> Best--Michael
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 8:37 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I have found that the 165 80 R15 tires I have for #174 will not fit into
>> the spare wheel holder...
>> I notice that BF Goodrich  sell a P155/80R15 Radial TA which appears to be
>> narrow enough (6.1") and small enough diameter (24.8") to fit into the
>> holder.
>> Has anyone tried those tires?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Michael S
>> BN1 3174
>>
>>
>>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 09:17:32 2014
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 08:17:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: Berry Mensen <berry@mever.be>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
 tests=NO_REAL_NAME
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 From: does not include a real name
Cc: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Retractable safetybelts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Barry,
I have been thinking along the same lines and took some pictures of three point installations at the Bend meet. I should have talked to some of the owners, but didn't. I would like to know if the package shelf is able to be unfolded past the "stock" three point belt bracket. If it can, then mounting the retractable mechanism down by the suspension radius arm box as I saw on some of the cars would probably work. 
Ken Freese

----- Original Message -----
From: "Berry Mensen" <berry@mever.be>
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2014 8:53:10 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Retractable safetybelts

Hi,

I was contemplating to install *Retractable safetybelts in my BJ8.*

*The problem (of course you know of this, listers) is the foldable
backrest.*

*Has anyone devellopped a system to install one and avoiding the
complication*
*of cutting into the backrest?*

*Thanks for your help*

*Berry *
*BJ8 35197*
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 09:30:44 2014
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From: Robert Duquette <RobertDuquette@Sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 11:30:35 -0400
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
 FILETIME=[E4CB8CD0:01CFA5C1]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires again!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That rang a bell!

I stumbled on this site quite a while back.
(There is a picture of the tyre in the wheel well.)

http://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/page/austin-healey


Robert (BN1)
I intend to live forever, or die trying.

> On Jul 22, 2014, at 9:08 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Michael--
> 
> Just for your info the 180-15 Michelin XAS's that I recently purchased not
> only fit the 100's wheel wells perfectly but also the spare tire aperture.
> 
> And they drive great!
> 
> Best--Michael
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 8:37 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> I have found that the 165 80 R15 tires I have for #174 will not fit into
>> the spare wheel holder...
>> I notice that BF Goodrich  sell a P155/80R15 Radial TA which appears to be
>> narrow enough (6.1") and small enough diameter (24.8") to fit into the
>> holder.
>> Has anyone tried those tires?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Michael S
>> BN1 3174
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 08:46:07 -0700
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeyrik@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 86 Year Old Healey Guy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks Rick , nice article. Clark Kent drove a Nash Healey? I didn't know that. Been a long long time since I've seen an episode.
Best
JK
Gotham

------------------------------
On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 7:43 AM EDT HealeyRick wrote:

>A great story about 86 year-old Don Bunker who's still driving the 100 he
>bought in 1959 ... and also flies his own plane b a 1948 Temco Swift.
>Here's to many more miles.
>http://www.ocregister.com/articles/healey-627147-bunker-car.html
>____________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 10:53:40 2014
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 12:53:12 -0400
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires again!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I will remove the spare tomorrow and lay it flat on the ground to measure
the inflated width and report back.  To be sure it is a tight fit but I did
not even have to use the laundry bag trick to get it in.

I must tell you all that several years ago, when faced with a struggle
inserting a 175 zX Michelin into the aperture, I judiciously "modified" the
opening a bit by use of a scissor jack.  There were a few unpleasant sounds
but nothing reflected in the contour of the tonneau (back deck) area.

Healey ownership is not for the faint of heart....

Best--Michael


On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 9:16 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> I can barely squeeze 165x80 Nexens in the spare tire slot, with much
> difficulty (and I opened the slot up a little by bending the flange up).
>
> I can't see how a tire that claims to be 15mm wider can fit. Someone's
> lying about his dimensions (not you Michael, the tire).
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> On 7/22/2014 6:08 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>
>> Michael--
>>
>> Just for your info the 180-15 Michelin XAS's that I recently purchased not
>> only fit the 100's wheel wells perfectly but also the spare tire aperture.
>>
>> And they drive great!
>>
>> Best--Michael
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 8:37 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>  I have found that the 165 80 R15 tires I have for #174 will not fit into
>>> the spare wheel holder...
>>> I notice that BF Goodrich  sell a P155/80R15 Radial TA which appears to
>>> be
>>> narrow enough (6.1") and small enough diameter (24.8") to fit into the
>>> holder.
>>> Has anyone tried those tires?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Michael S
>>> BN1 3174
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 12:02:47 2014
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From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 12:10:52 2014
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 20:10:47 +0200
To: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] Tires again!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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The 180-15 Michelin XAS is much too wide to fit through the spare wheel hole. No chance at all. Even a new Dunlop Roadspeed 590-15 is only going through when you release the airpressure. Also a 165-15 is not going through.

 

Josef Eckert

BN1 3651

 

-----Original-Nachricht-----

Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Tires again!!

Datum: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 15:09:52 +0200

Von: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>

An: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>

 

 

Michael--

 

Just for your info the 180-15 Michelin XAS's that I recently purchased not

only fit the 100's wheel wells perfectly but also the spare tire aperture.

 

And they drive great!

 

Best--Michael

 

 

On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 8:37 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>

wrote:

 

> I have found that the 165 80 R15 tires I have for #174 will not fit into

> the spare wheel holder...

> I notice that BF Goodrich sell a P155/80R15 Radial TA which appears to be

> narrow enough (6.1") and small enough diameter (24.8") to fit into the

> holder.

> Has anyone tried those tires?

>

> Thanks,

> Michael S

> BN1 3174
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 19:31:42 2014
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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 21:31:30 -0400
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Lock clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had to replace a universal joint on my BJ7 and when I removed the locking
clips, on the drive flange bolts, the locking ears broke off.

I have been looking all over the net for a source and so far I have not
been able to locate anything, including the correct name of what I am
looking for.

I ordered part "# 12-539, washer" from Victoria British but no one there
was able to confirm if this "washer" was the locking tab type that I need.
Moss does not list themas far as I can tell nor does LBC.

Does anyone have a source for these clips/washers or at least the correct
name for them?

Or, should I simply use nuts and lock washer with lock tight or the nylon
lock nuts or use double nuts on the bolts?

Thanks in advance,

Fred
63 BJ7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 18:44:33 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lock clips?
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Fred,

I have used split lockwashers with blue threadlocker for many years and miles.  No problems at all.

Bob



On 7/22/2014 6:31 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> I had to replace a universal joint on my BJ7 and when I removed the locking
> clips, on the drive flange bolts, the locking ears broke off.
>
> I have been looking all over the net for a source and so far I have not
> been able to locate anything, including the correct name of what I am
> looking for.
>
> I ordered part "# 12-539, washer" from Victoria British but no one there
> was able to confirm if this "washer" was the locking tab type that I need.
> Moss does not list themas far as I can tell nor does LBC.
>
> Does anyone have a source for these clips/washers or at least the correct
> name for them?
>
> Or, should I simply use nuts and lock washer with lock tight or the nylon
> lock nuts or use double nuts on the bolts?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 21:45:15 -0400
References: <CAPAC+V6HdpiaE15zUS-0yvZMDs3Hdki=P4KyJfMSTCriy5FHGA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lock clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Fred,
The name in the parts book is Washer-lock.
For overdrive cars they are straight. Part #2K5914
 Non OD are curved. Part # 1B7316.
In the aircraft industry I  believe they are called "tab washers".
I would think that you could easily make a pair from sheet metal.
Michael S
BN1 #174


-----Original Message-----
From: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
Sent: b7/b22/b2014 9:31 PM
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Lock clips?

I had to replace a universal joint on my BJ7 and when I removed the locking
clips, on the drive flange bolts, the locking ears broke off.

I have been looking all over the net for a source and so far I have not
been able to locate anything, including the correct name of what I am
looking for.

I ordered part "# 12-539, washer" from Victoria British but no one there
was able to confirm if this "washer" was the locking tab type that I need.
Moss does not list themas far as I can tell nor does LBC.

Does anyone have a source for these clips/washers or at least the correct
name for them?

Or, should I simply use nuts and lock washer with lock tight or the nylon
lock nuts or use double nuts on the bolts?

Thanks in advance,

Fred
63 BJ7
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 21:18:39 2014
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From: "Auto Farm" <autofarm@wightman.ca>
To: "'Fred Wescoe'" <fredwescoe@gmail.com>, "'healeys'"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPAC+V6HdpiaE15zUS-0yvZMDs3Hdki=P4KyJfMSTCriy5FHGA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 23:18:32 -0400
Content-Language: en-ca
Thread-Index: Ac+mFeyJa63myInxRY2DNBStGcieWwADrs0Q
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lock clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

	Fred, we have stock at Autofarm Ltd.  They are $3.77ea Canadian.
Cheers...Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Wescoe
Sent: July-22-14 9:32 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Lock clips?

I had to replace a universal joint on my BJ7 and when I removed the locking
clips, on the drive flange bolts, the locking ears broke off.

I have been looking all over the net for a source and so far I have not been
able to locate anything, including the correct name of what I am looking
for.

I ordered part "# 12-539, washer" from Victoria British but no one there was
able to confirm if this "washer" was the locking tab type that I need.
Moss does not list themas far as I can tell nor does LBC.

Does anyone have a source for these clips/washers or at least the correct
name for them?

Or, should I simply use nuts and lock washer with lock tight or the nylon
lock nuts or use double nuts on the bolts?

Thanks in advance,

Fred
63 BJ7
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm@wightman.ca
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 22 21:58:58 2014
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Fred Wescoe'" <fredwescoe@gmail.com>, "'healeys'"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPAC+V6HdpiaE15zUS-0yvZMDs3Hdki=P4KyJfMSTCriy5FHGA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2014 20:58:59 -0700
Content-Language: en-us
Thread-Index: AQHLhBEB4oWmefmiOZsZTcoxzSOYfZu1TFAQ
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lock clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

They are very easy to make out of a piece of sheet metal.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 06:46:39 2014
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To: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>, Fred Wescoe
 <fredwescoe@gmail.com>,  healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 08:46:08 -0400
References: <CAPAC+V6HdpiaE15zUS-0yvZMDs3Hdki=P4KyJfMSTCriy5FHGA@mail.gmail.com>
 <53cf13b8.e44e320a.0c9e.fffff789@mx.google.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lock clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Life's too short...Buy them from Bob!!!

Michael S
BN1 #174


-----Original Message-----
From: "Michael" <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Sent: b7/b22/b2014 9:45 PM
To: "Fred Wescoe" <fredwescoe@gmail.com>; "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Lock clips?

Hi Fred,
The name in the parts book is Washer-lock.
For overdrive cars they are straight. Part #2K5914
Non OD are curved. Part # 1B7316.
In the aircraft industry I  believe they are called "tab washers".
I would think that you could easily make a pair from sheet metal.
Michael S
BN1 #174



From: Fred Wescoe
Sent: b7/b22/b2014 9:31 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Lock clips?


I had to replace a universal joint on my BJ7 and when I removed the locking
clips, on the drive flange bolts, the locking ears broke off.

I have been looking all over the net for a source and so far I have not
been able to locate anything, including the correct name of what I am
looking for.

I ordered part "# 12-539, washer" from Victoria British but no one there
was able to confirm if this "washer" was the locking tab type that I need.
Moss does not list themas far as I can tell nor does LBC.

Does anyone have a source for these clips/washers or at least the correct
name for them?

Or, should I simply use nuts and lock washer with lock tight or the nylon
lock nuts or use double nuts on the bolts?

Thanks in advance,

Fred
63 BJ7
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 07:57:19 2014
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Delivered-To: healeys@autox.team.net
Received: from dnvrco-oedge-vip.email.rr.com
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 23 Jul 2014 13:57:09 +0000
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPAC+V6HdpiaE15zUS-0yvZMDs3Hdki=P4KyJfMSTCriy5FHGA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 09:57:01 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+mFevxiWDwvctxSLWwR9utW9wIcwAZ8sdw
Content-Language: en-us
 a=lReFixcaowqd3lUkmOsbOw==:117 a=lReFixcaowqd3lUkmOsbOw==:17
 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=nC-CKA2U8RUA:10 a=05ChyHeVI94A:10 a=kj9zAlcOel0A:10
 a=naWJxk4aAAAA:8 a=zOoktvdPAAAA:8 a=cd95oxKFg6q4wDitBIwA:9
 a=CjuIK1q_8ugA:10
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lock clips?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought new locktabs for the front u-joint from British Car Specialists in
April:  http://www.britishcarspecialists.com

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Wescoe
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2014 9:32 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Lock clips?

I had to replace a universal joint on my BJ7 and when I removed the locking
clips, on the drive flange bolts, the locking ears broke off.

I have been looking all over the net for a source and so far I have not been
able to locate anything, including the correct name of what I am looking
for.

I ordered part "# 12-539, washer" from Victoria British but no one there was
able to confirm if this "washer" was the locking tab type that I need.
Moss does not list themas far as I can tell nor does LBC.

Does anyone have a source for these clips/washers or at least the correct
name for them?

Or, should I simply use nuts and lock washer with lock tight or the nylon
lock nuts or use double nuts on the bolts?

Thanks in advance,

Fred
63 BJ7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 10:17:35 2014
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 Wed, 23 Jul 2014 09:17:24 -0700 (PDT)
To: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 12:17:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Tags
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Reputedly, although I have never seen one let alone a pair, the carbs on the
100 had identification tags under the float chamber lid retaining nut.
The carb set number was AUC718.
Does anyone know what was on the tags...I'm guessing AUC718R and AUC718F but
am not certain of that.
Also any chance of a photo of an original....I would like to get the font and
point size of the imprinted number.

Many thanks
Michael S
BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 10:23:36 2014
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From: Kenny J <theswed@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 09:23:36 -0700
 FILETIME=[753753F0:01CFA692]
Subject: [Healeys] OD
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While driving yesterday, I noticed my OD would engage normally.  Once I
pressed on the accelerator, it would disengage.  I was in 4th gear traveling
at 60 mph.  I was only trying to keep the car at 60 mph.  I never had this
problem before.  Any ideas?  OD throttle switch bad?

Kenny
61 BT7
_______________________________________________
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 09:27:16 -0700
References: <VsPt1o0130NyJgq01sPuzT>
To: Kenny J <theswed@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That switch is adjustable, and I would say that based on what you describe,
you need to adjust yours.

On Jul 23, 2014, at 9:23 AM, Kenny J wrote:

> While driving yesterday, I noticed my OD would engage normally.  Once I
> pressed on the accelerator, it would disengage.  I was in 4th gear
traveling
> at 60 mph.  I was only trying to keep the car at 60 mph.  I never had this
> problem before.  Any ideas?  OD throttle switch bad?
>
> Kenny
> 61 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 10:36:13 2014
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From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 10:36:04 -0600
To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD
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Sounds hydronic. Transmission fluid level?

Price Lindsay

630-841-6300 Cell


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 23, 2014, at 10:27 AM, Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:
>
> That switch is adjustable, and I would say that based on what you describe,
> you need to adjust yours.
>
>> On Jul 23, 2014, at 9:23 AM, Kenny J wrote:
>>
>> While driving yesterday, I noticed my OD would engage normally.  Once I
>> pressed on the accelerator, it would disengage.  I was in 4th gear
> traveling
>> at 60 mph.  I was only trying to keep the car at 60 mph.  I never had this
>> problem before.  Any ideas?  OD throttle switch bad?
>>
>> Kenny
>> 61 BT7
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 10:38:46 2014
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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 12:38:49 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Kenny J <theswed@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Kenny, although it is possible that the throttle switch is causing the
problem I think it is unlikely as the dash switch effectively parallels the
throttle switch so, as long as the dash switch is on, the throttle switch
should have no effect.
I would start by trying the same test while holding the gear lever to the
right. It could be that the engine, when producing more power, is moving
over sufficiently to open the gear lever switch contacts.
I have also encountered the same problem when the overdrive oil pressure is
getting down. In those cases the overdrive would partially disengage
producing a "neutral" effect, as if you had dropped the box out of gear.

Michael S
BN1 #174



On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 12:23 PM, Kenny J <theswed@hotmail.com> wrote:

> While driving yesterday, I noticed my OD would engage normally.  Once I
> pressed on the accelerator, it would disengage.  I was in 4th gear
> traveling
> at 60 mph.  I was only trying to keep the car at 60 mph.  I never had this
> problem before.  Any ideas?  OD throttle switch bad?
>
> Kenny
> 61 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From: Richard Korn <cynicbass@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 17:49:20 +0000
To: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Tags
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

A quick search found this.
http://www.clarkespares.com/MARCH2013UPDATE.pdf

You could try Joe Curto also.

Richard
BN2 # 12316

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 23, 2014, at 16:17, Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Reputedly, although I have never seen one let alone a pair, the carbs on
the
> 100 had identification tags under the float chamber lid retaining nut.
> The carb set number was AUC718.
> Does anyone know what was on the tags...I'm guessing AUC718R and AUC718F
but
> am not certain of that.
> Also any chance of a photo of an original....I would like to get the font
and
> point size of the imprinted number.
>
> Many thanks
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 12:37:38 2014
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From: Steve Sanders <ssanders@midsouthinc.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 13:35:20 -0500
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 6, Issue 312
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Steve Sanders
Sent from my iPhone


> On Jul 23, 2014, at 1:00 PM, healeys-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
>    healeys@autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    healeys-request@autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    healeys-owner@autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: OD (Michael Salter)
>   2. Re: Carburetor Tags (Richard Korn)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 12:38:49 -0400
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> To: Kenny J <theswed@hotmail.com>
> Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD
> Message-ID:
>    <CAB3i7LJX4W0cEN5HmH0cR4G1LQioSXy6T7Prnp6UkDXY6qawbA@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Hi Kenny, although it is possible that the throttle switch is causing the
> problem I think it is unlikely as the dash switch effectively parallels the
> throttle switch so, as long as the dash switch is on, the throttle switch
> should have no effect.
> I would start by trying the same test while holding the gear lever to the
> right. It could be that the engine, when producing more power, is moving
> over sufficiently to open the gear lever switch contacts.
> I have also encountered the same problem when the overdrive oil pressure is
> getting down. In those cases the overdrive would partially disengage
> producing a "neutral" effect, as if you had dropped the box out of gear.
> 
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> 
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 12:23 PM, Kenny J <theswed@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> While driving yesterday, I noticed my OD would engage normally.  Once I
>> pressed on the accelerator, it would disengage.  I was in 4th gear
>> traveling
>> at 60 mph.  I was only trying to keep the car at 60 mph.  I never had this
>> problem before.  Any ideas?  OD throttle switch bad?
>> 
>> Kenny
>> 61 BT7
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> 
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 17:49:20 +0000
> From: Richard Korn <cynicbass@gmail.com>
> To: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
> Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Tags
> Message-ID: <8BCD93B5-CD82-4D0B-B284-10D4F55FA7B1@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Michael,
> 
> A quick search found this.
> http://www.clarkespares.com/MARCH2013UPDATE.pdf
> 
> You could try Joe Curto also.
> 
> Richard
> BN2 # 12316
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jul 23, 2014, at 16:17, Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Reputedly, although I have never seen one let alone a pair, the carbs on
> the
>> 100 had identification tags under the float chamber lid retaining nut.
>> The carb set number was AUC718.
>> Does anyone know what was on the tags...I'm guessing AUC718R and AUC718F
> but
>> am not certain of that.
>> Also any chance of a photo of an original....I would like to get the font
> and
>> point size of the imprinted number.
>> 
>> Many thanks
>> Michael S
>> BN1 #174
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> 
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass@gmail.com
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 6, Issue 312
> ***************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 12:59:54 2014
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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 11:59:35 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Richard Korn <cynicbass@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>, Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Tags
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

There is a debate on this subject right now if any of the 100s had the
carburetor tags.  My opinion is that they did not, but I'd like to see
someone with an original 100 prove me wrong.

Curt
BN1 #7197


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 10:49 AM, Richard Korn <cynicbass@gmail.com> wrote:

> Michael,
>
> A quick search found this.
> http://www.clarkespares.com/MARCH2013UPDATE.pdf
>
> You could try Joe Curto also.
>
> Richard
> BN2 # 12316
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 23, 2014, at 16:17, Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com> wrote:
>


> Reputedly, although I have never seen one let alone a pair, the carbs on
> the 100 had identification tags under the float chamber lid retaining nut.
> The carb set number was AUC718.  Does anyone know what was on the tags...
> I'm guessing AUC718R and AUC718F
> but am not certain of that.
>


> Also any chance of a photo of an original.... I would like to get the font
> and point size of the imprinted number.
>


> Many thanks
>


> Michael S
>
   BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 13:51:27 2014
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Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 14:50:42 -0500
Thread-Topic: 1959 100-6
Thread-Index: Ac+mr2LTdQdIKlJUTCKHoyZqxXXkwQ==
From: "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Greetings,

My name is Chris from Muscatine Iowa--I bought my first Healey last summer--a
beautiful 100-6, english old white with red coves and red interior with a
non-original rebuilt engine.   Car is in good shape but was running poorly in
2013.  Found out the distributer and generator were bad, and there was some
misalignment of the engine crank with the transmission.   That was all fixed
this winter and the car was running good this spring, except for an occasional
spit.

It quit on me last month, and was backfiring and wouldn't run.  My trusty
mechanic checked the compression which was low, and barely within normal
limits.   He did a leak-down test, and two or three cylinders are very poor.
There is some black smoke on start-up.   It appears that this rebuilt engine
from the previous owner is wore out.

I have the original engine which has a thrown rod.   We are looking at
overhauling the original motor and having the car be complete numbers
matching.  I will have a core motor for sale shortly, including the crank,
etc, if anyone is interested.

I am frustrated that I have to go through an overhaul, but will be excited to
have the car run like it was designed.  Transmission and overdrive are in
excellent shape, so that is good news.   Any advice is welcome.  I feel the
car is worth more with the original engine.   We are not cutting any corners
in the overhaul, since the rest of the car is in such good shape, we want
everything as close to perfect as possible.  Thanks.

Chris Scholz
563-260-5067
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 15:36:10 2014
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 14:36:02 -0700
References: <Vvrk1o00f0NyJgq01vrlNT>
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hmmm.

What you describe shouldn't be cause to scrap the engine that's in the car.
Find someone who knows these engines. Simple timing issues and intake leaks
cause those.

An Austin Healey engine will run great forever with completely shot rings and
bearings. they may make some noise, but they will run smoothly.

With that out of the way, you can rebuild your original numbers engine fairly
simply. I keep seeing people posting numbers of 10,000 to rebuild one right.
IMNSHO, that's hogwash.

God luck!

On Jul 23, 2014, at 12:50 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:

> Greetings,
>
> My name is Chris from Muscatine Iowa--I bought my first Healey last
summer--a
> beautiful 100-6, english old white with red coves and red interior with a
> non-original rebuilt engine.   Car is in good shape but was running poorly
in
> 2013.  Found out the distributer and generator were bad, and there was some
> misalignment of the engine crank with the transmission.   That was all
fixed
> this winter and the car was running good this spring, except for an
occasional
> spit.
>
> It quit on me last month, and was backfiring and wouldn't run.  My trusty
> mechanic checked the compression which was low, and barely within normal
> limits.   He did a leak-down test, and two or three cylinders are very
poor.
> There is some black smoke on start-up.   It appears that this rebuilt
engine
> from the previous owner is wore out.
>
> I have the original engine which has a thrown rod.   We are looking at
> overhauling the original motor and having the car be complete numbers
> matching.  I will have a core motor for sale shortly, including the crank,
> etc, if anyone is interested.
>
> I am frustrated that I have to go through an overhaul, but will be excited
to
> have the car run like it was designed.  Transmission and overdrive are in
> excellent shape, so that is good news.   Any advice is welcome.  I feel the
> car is worth more with the original engine.   We are not cutting any
corners
> in the overhaul, since the rest of the car is in such good shape, we want
> everything as close to perfect as possible.  Thanks.
>
> Chris Scholz
> 563-260-5067
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 16:42:54 2014
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References: <D6A64D75CE0E5D4B885C03FD707DB4A6B638E7@server.visioncenter.local>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 15:42:45 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What is the engine#? Sorry to hear of your issues. Are you rebuilding the
engine or having it done? Do you have a British Motor Heritage Trust
certificate? Otherwise could be hard to authenticate matching engine.
We,xwtfvc=
/ are here to help you source parts, provide advice and share horror
stories.
Cheers

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
On Jul 23, 2014 12:50 PM, "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
wrote:

> Greetings,
>
> My name is Chris from Muscatine Iowa--I bought my first Healey last
> summer--a
> beautiful 100-6, english old white with red coves and red interior with a
> non-original rebuilt engine.   Car is in good shape but was running poorly
> in
> 2013.  Found out the distributer and generator were bad, and there was some
> misalignment of the engine crank with the transmission.   That was all
> fixed
> this winter and the car was running good this spring, except for an
> occasional
> spit.
>
> It quit on me last month, and was backfiring and wouldn't run.  My trusty
> mechanic checked the compression which was low, and barely within normal
> limits.   He did a leak-down test, and two or three cylinders are very
> poor.
> There is some black smoke on start-up.   It appears that this rebuilt
> engine
> from the previous owner is wore out.
>
> I have the original engine which has a thrown rod.   We are looking at
> overhauling the original motor and having the car be complete numbers
> matching.  I will have a core motor for sale shortly, including the crank,
> etc, if anyone is interested.
>
> I am frustrated that I have to go through an overhaul, but will be excited
> to
> have the car run like it was designed.  Transmission and overdrive are in
> excellent shape, so that is good news.   Any advice is welcome.  I feel the
> car is worth more with the original engine.   We are not cutting any
> corners
> in the overhaul, since the rest of the car is in such good shape, we want
> everything as close to perfect as possible.  Thanks.
>
> Chris Scholz
> 563-260-5067
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 17:22:26 2014
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 <CACPMnYqO2RUqFfPg-jV8dYy3=mjyG=hSNLpNqsAWpin-DRYZFA@mail.gmail.com>
From: Gmail <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 19:22:18 -0400
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I paid $7500 for complete engine and transmission rebuild. Came out great in
the end but what a chase to get it back. I can tell you who NOT to use (he's
in CT)!

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 23, 2014, at 6:42 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> What is the engine#? Sorry to hear of your issues. Are you rebuilding the
> engine or having it done? Do you have a British Motor Heritage Trust
> certificate? Otherwise could be hard to authenticate matching engine.
> We,xwtfvc=
> / are here to help you source parts, provide advice and share horror
> stories.
> Cheers
>
> I Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> On Jul 23, 2014 12:50 PM, "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Greetings,
>>
>> My name is Chris from Muscatine Iowa--I bought my first Healey last
>> summer--a
>> beautiful 100-6, english old white with red coves and red interior with a
>> non-original rebuilt engine.   Car is in good shape but was running poorly
>> in
>> 2013.  Found out the distributer and generator were bad, and there was
some
>> misalignment of the engine crank with the transmission.   That was all
>> fixed
>> this winter and the car was running good this spring, except for an
>> occasional
>> spit.
>>
>> It quit on me last month, and was backfiring and wouldn't run.  My trusty
>> mechanic checked the compression which was low, and barely within normal
>> limits.   He did a leak-down test, and two or three cylinders are very
>> poor.
>> There is some black smoke on start-up.   It appears that this rebuilt
>> engine
>> from the previous owner is wore out.
>>
>> I have the original engine which has a thrown rod.   We are looking at
>> overhauling the original motor and having the car be complete numbers
>> matching.  I will have a core motor for sale shortly, including the crank,
>> etc, if anyone is interested.
>>
>> I am frustrated that I have to go through an overhaul, but will be excited
>> to
>> have the car run like it was designed.  Transmission and overdrive are in
>> excellent shape, so that is good news.   Any advice is welcome.  I feel
the
>> car is worth more with the original engine.   We are not cutting any
>> corners
>> in the overhaul, since the rest of the car is in such good shape, we want
>> everything as close to perfect as possible.  Thanks.
>>
>> Chris Scholz
>> 563-260-5067
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/satkinson1974@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 17:43:36 2014
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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 23:43:28 +0000 (UTC)
From: "Howard R. Morris via LinkedIn" <member@linkedin.com>
To: "Dave P." <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Dave, please add me to your LinkedIn network
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

LinkedIn
------------




    Howard R. Morris requested to add you as a connection on LinkedIn:
  

------------------------------------------

Dave,

I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn.

- Howard R.

Accept invitation from Howard R. Morris
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 19:42:26 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 11:42:11 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac+m4DkNvTuPP1/hRzCda76PWZyVsg==
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Subject: [Healeys] US Classic Car Prices
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G'day

 

Would anyone be able to direct me to a site that will tell me what the
current prices of classic cars?

 

Specifically I am interested in a Jaguar XK150 Coupe.

 

Also would love to know what they cost new in the US.

 

many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 19:53:22 2014
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Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 21:53:22 -0400
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <016101cfa6e0$7e28ec50$7a7ac4f0$@tpg.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] US Classic Car Prices
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Patrick,
Here is one:
http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars
Charlie


On 7/23/2014 9:42 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
> G'day
>
>   
>
> Would anyone be able to direct me to a site that will tell me what the
> current prices of classic cars?
>
>   
>
> Specifically I am interested in a Jaguar XK150 Coupe.
>
>   
>
> Also would love to know what they cost new in the US.
>
>   
>
> many thanks
>
>   
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie@comcast.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 19:56:59 2014
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From: Scott Willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,
 "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
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_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 19:57:51 2014
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From: Scott Willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,
 "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 20:57:52 -0500
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 19:59:30 2014
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From: Scott Willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,
 "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 20:59:30 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] US Classic Car Prices
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http://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/HVT/VehicleSearch

Hagerty's tool

I had to send three times due to plain text to rich text and deleting the
original email tag. Weeeeee



Scott Willis
59 MGA 1500
60 BN7 Austin Healey Club USA/Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
66 E-Type FHC S1

http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY
100% CONTACT: swillis@columbia.com


----------------------------------------
> From: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 11:42:11 +1000
> Subject: [Healeys] US Classic Car Prices
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> Would anyone be able to direct me to a site that will tell me what the
> current prices of classic cars?
>
>
>
> Specifically I am interested in a Jaguar XK150 Coupe.
>
>
>
> Also would love to know what they cost new in the US.
>
>
>
> many thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 20:04:28 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <016101cfa6e0$7e28ec50$7a7ac4f0$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 12:04:19 +1000
Thread-Index: AQJeXvdlXvazsMUcGuzIO+7l0UKN/pqRCOnA
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] US Classic Car Prices
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

That was quick. Mustn't be much else on.

Many thanks to everyone who steered me in the right direction.

Best wishes

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick &
Caroline Quinn
Sent: Thursday, 24 July 2014 11:42 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] US Classic Car Prices

G'day

 

Would anyone be able to direct me to a site that will tell me what the
current prices of classic cars?

 

Specifically I am interested in a Jaguar XK150 Coupe.

 

Also would love to know what they cost new in the US.

 

many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
$12.75
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Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 22:38:45 2014
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 ([10.50.10.11]) with Microsoft Exchange Server HTTP-DAV ; Thu, 24 Jul
 2014 04:34:50 +0000
From: "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 23:36:08 -0500
References: <D6A64D75CE0E5D4B885C03FD707DB4A6B638E7@server.visioncenter.local>
 <CACPMnYqO2RUqFfPg-jV8dYy3=mjyG=hSNLpNqsAWpin-DRYZFA@mail.gmail.com>
thread-topic: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
thread-index: Ac+m+JsXevb1QZi2R36LeNe87BtCBg==
To: "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the help. How do I apply for a British Motor Heritage Trust
certificate?

Sent from my iPhone
Chris Scholz OD

> On Jul 23, 2014, at 5:42 PM, "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> What is the engine#? Sorry to hear of your issues. Are you rebuilding the
engine or having it done? Do you have a British Motor Heritage Trust
certificate? Otherwise could be hard to authenticate matching engine.
We,xwtfvc=
> / are here to help you source parts, provide advice and share horror
stories.
> Cheers
>
> I Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
>
>> On Jul 23, 2014 12:50 PM, "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
wrote:
>> Greetings,
>>
>> My name is Chris from Muscatine Iowa--I bought my first Healey last
summer--a
>> beautiful 100-6, english old white with red coves and red interior with a
>> non-original rebuilt engine.   Car is in good shape but was running poorly
in
>> 2013.  Found out the distributer and generator were bad, and there was
some
>> misalignment of the engine crank with the transmission.   That was all
fixed
>> this winter and the car was running good this spring, except for an
occasional
>> spit.
>>
>> It quit on me last month, and was backfiring and wouldn't run.  My trusty
>> mechanic checked the compression which was low, and barely within normal
>> limits.   He did a leak-down test, and two or three cylinders are very
poor.
>> There is some black smoke on start-up.   It appears that this rebuilt
engine
>> from the previous owner is wore out.
>>
>> I have the original engine which has a thrown rod.   We are looking at
>> overhauling the original motor and having the car be complete numbers
>> matching.  I will have a core motor for sale shortly, including the crank,
>> etc, if anyone is interested.
>>
>> I am frustrated that I have to go through an overhaul, but will be excited
to
>> have the car run like it was designed.  Transmission and overdrive are in
>> excellent shape, so that is good news.   Any advice is welcome.  I feel
the
>> car is worth more with the original engine.   We are not cutting any
corners
>> in the overhaul, since the rest of the car is in such good shape, we want
>> everything as close to perfect as possible.  Thanks.
>>
>> Chris Scholz
>> 563-260-5067
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 23 22:49:00 2014
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 04:49:00 +0000
References: <D6A64D75CE0E5D4B885C03FD707DB4A6B638E7@server.visioncenter.local>,
 <CACPMnYqO2RUqFfPg-jV8dYy3=mjyG=hSNLpNqsAWpin-DRYZFA@mail.gmail.com>,
 <2138F4A5-E60D-4043-BC1A-F180DFF936C6@visioncenterpc.com>
 FILETIME=[965E48F0:01CFA6FA]
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris:

Go to: www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk You will find the form(s) to fill in
order to obtain the pertinent information about your car, such as build date,
shipping date(dispatched date), accessories, engine number, key number etc.

Good luck,



Jean


> From: drscholz@visioncenterpc.com
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 23:36:08 -0500
> To: eyera3000@gmail.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
>
> Thanks for the help. How do I apply for a British Motor Heritage Trust
> certificate?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Chris Scholz OD
>
> > On Jul 23, 2014, at 5:42 PM, "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > What is the engine#? Sorry to hear of your issues. Are you rebuilding the
> engine or having it done? Do you have a British Motor Heritage Trust
> certificate? Otherwise could be hard to authenticate matching engine.
> We,xwtfvc=
> > / are here to help you source parts, provide advice and share horror
> stories.
> > Cheers
> >
> > I Erbs
> > IT Educator and Consultant
> > sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> >
> >> On Jul 23, 2014 12:50 PM, "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
> wrote:
> >> Greetings,
> >>
> >> My name is Chris from Muscatine Iowa--I bought my first Healey last
> summer--a
> >> beautiful 100-6, english old white with red coves and red interior with
a
> >> non-original rebuilt engine. Car is in good shape but was running poorly
> in
> >> 2013. Found out the distributer and generator were bad, and there was
> some
> >> misalignment of the engine crank with the transmission. That was all
> fixed
> >> this winter and the car was running good this spring, except for an
> occasional
> >> spit.
> >>
> >> It quit on me last month, and was backfiring and wouldn't run. My trusty
> >> mechanic checked the compression which was low, and barely within normal
> >> limits. He did a leak-down test, and two or three cylinders are very
> poor.
> >> There is some black smoke on start-up. It appears that this rebuilt
> engine
> >> from the previous owner is wore out.
> >>
> >> I have the original engine which has a thrown rod. We are looking at
> >> overhauling the original motor and having the car be complete numbers
> >> matching. I will have a core motor for sale shortly, including the
crank,
> >> etc, if anyone is interested.
> >>
> >> I am frustrated that I have to go through an overhaul, but will be
excited
> to
> >> have the car run like it was designed. Transmission and overdrive are in
> >> excellent shape, so that is good news. Any advice is welcome. I feel
> the
> >> car is worth more with the original engine. We are not cutting any
> corners
> >> in the overhaul, since the rest of the car is in such good shape, we
want
> >> everything as close to perfect as possible. Thanks.
> >>
> >> Chris Scholz
> >> 563-260-5067
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 05:44:21 2014
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 21:44:01 +1000
To: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Vinyl wood trim covering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Guys
Can anyone tell me the name/ part number/ supplier of concours correct off
white (speckled?) vinyl covering for the wood bits on a BJ8 hood?
If this sounds like an incongruous question from me (as my BJ8 has triple
webers, minilites, roll bar etc) - it's for a mate of mine. He's tearing his
hair out men... And, trust me, he hasn't got much hair left.....
You know, that vinil vynil vinyl on the BJ8 top....
Thanks in advance men.
A community service request for info for a mate, and a good bloke, whose
painting & panel beating skills far exceed his internet skills....
Thanks in advance
Chris
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 06:02:04 2014
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From: "Auto Farm" <autofarm@wightman.ca>
To: "'Chris Dimmock'" <austin.healey@gmail.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CBCD792B-A939-420F-9E04-B37BBBB99F27@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 08:02:04 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+nNK9nKJJqBA7ySNyLi8DfyWYU7wAAdKaw
Content-Language: en-ca
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Vinyl wood trim covering
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

	The material is off white, thin, and vinyl like. We have stock at
Autofarm Ltd. Cheers...Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris
Dimmock
Sent: July-24-14 7:44 AM
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Vinyl wood trim covering

Hi Guys
Can anyone tell me the name/ part number/ supplier of concours correct off
white (speckled?) vinyl covering for the wood bits on a BJ8 hood?
If this sounds like an incongruous question from me (as my BJ8 has triple
webers, minilites, roll bar etc) - it's for a mate of mine. He's tearing his
hair out men... And, trust me, he hasn't got much hair left.....
You know, that vinil vynil vinyl on the BJ8 top....
Thanks in advance men.
A community service request for info for a mate, and a good bloke, whose
painting & panel beating skills far exceed his internet skills....
Thanks in advance
Chris
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm@wightman.ca
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, "Kenny J" <theswed@hotmail.com>
References: <SNT145-W581205716F082A5F7C955AB3FE0@phx.gbl>
 <CAB3i7LJX4W0cEN5HmH0cR4G1LQioSXy6T7Prnp6UkDXY6qawbA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 08:42:56 -0700
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You have a faulty Overdrive relay. The overdrive is working thru the 
kickdown switch at idle and slow speed, then as soon as you accelerate the 
circuit in the kickdown relay opens and the overdrive comes out.

Install a new overdrive relay.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com


-----Original Message----- 
From: Michael Salter
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 9:38 AM
To: Kenny J
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD

Hi Kenny, although it is possible that the throttle switch is causing the
problem I think it is unlikely as the dash switch effectively parallels the
throttle switch so, as long as the dash switch is on, the throttle switch
should have no effect.
I would start by trying the same test while holding the gear lever to the
right. It could be that the engine, when producing more power, is moving
over sufficiently to open the gear lever switch contacts.
I have also encountered the same problem when the overdrive oil pressure is
getting down. In those cases the overdrive would partially disengage
producing a "neutral" effect, as if you had dropped the box out of gear.

Michael S
BN1 #174



On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 12:23 PM, Kenny J <theswed@hotmail.com> wrote:

> While driving yesterday, I noticed my OD would engage normally.  Once I
> pressed on the accelerator, it would disengage.  I was in 4th gear
> traveling
> at 60 mph.  I was only trying to keep the car at 60 mph.  I never had this
> problem before.  Any ideas?  OD throttle switch bad?
>
> Kenny
> 61 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 10:00:21 2014
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Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 15:59:45 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <SNT145-W581205716F082A5F7C955AB3FE0@phx.gbl>
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Thread-Topic: OD
Thread-Index: jtjY3oszxl0Iq/h3U1YF+9D8I3P7fg==
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 vFp7JAlFjHmjw==
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If you've got the time and the curiosity, you can (carefully) open up the relay. If everything looks OK but the points are eroded you can clean them up with a points file--be sure to clean the points with contact cleaner and/or a matchbook cover drawn between--close up the relay and give it a go. Had similar problem on a road trip--but symptom was intermittent operation--and successfully performed first aid to get us home. Did replace the relay, but kept the repaired one for a spare; based on the erosion of the points on it it's probably good for another 40-50K miles. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----

From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net> 
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, "Kenny J" <theswed@hotmail.com> 
Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2014 8:42:56 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD 

You have a faulty Overdrive relay. The overdrive is working thru the 
kickdown switch at idle and slow speed, then as soon as you accelerate the 
circuit in the kickdown relay opens and the overdrive comes out. 

Install a new overdrive relay. 




David Nock 
British Car Specialists 
209-948-8767 
www.britishcarspecialists.com 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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 <CAPTa0B5ZHKZZhAX8W8EAndgnj-QsY5nB6JXy_W8fDhcVDsS5Mw@mail.gmail.com>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 16:54:13 -0400
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires again!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I removed the spare 180-15 XAS from the aperture, laid it on the garage
floor and measured it.
The tire--inflated to 30 PSI--is 6-5/8" thick and the inflated diameter is
approximately 26-5/8".

As I said in an earlier email I modified somewhat the aperture's height by
use of a scissor jack.  The XAS is a nice press-fit into the opening and
the vinyl tire cover.  Though I did not use plastic laundry bags when I
last inserted the tire I will this time, just to make it a bit easier to
install/remove.

I hope this is of some assistance and I am very pleased with the tires both
from performance and appearance standpoints

Best--Michael Oritt


On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 12:53 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I will remove the spare tomorrow and lay it flat on the ground to measure
> the inflated width and report back.  To be sure it is a tight fit but I did
> not even have to use the laundry bag trick to get it in.
>
> I must tell you all that several years ago, when faced with a struggle
> inserting a 175 zX Michelin into the aperture, I judiciously "modified" the
> opening a bit by use of a scissor jack.  There were a few unpleasant sounds
> but nothing reflected in the contour of the tonneau (back deck) area.
>
> Healey ownership is not for the faint of heart....
>
> Best--Michael
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 9:16 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> I can barely squeeze 165x80 Nexens in the spare tire slot, with much
>> difficulty (and I opened the slot up a little by bending the flange up).
>>
>> I can't see how a tire that claims to be 15mm wider can fit. Someone's
>> lying about his dimensions (not you Michael, the tire).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 7/22/2014 6:08 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>>
>>> Michael--
>>>
>>> Just for your info the 180-15 Michelin XAS's that I recently purchased
>>> not
>>> only fit the 100's wheel wells perfectly but also the spare tire
>>> aperture.
>>>
>>> And they drive great!
>>>
>>> Best--Michael
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 21, 2014 at 8:37 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com
>>> >
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>  I have found that the 165 80 R15 tires I have for #174 will not fit into
>>>> the spare wheel holder...
>>>> I notice that BF Goodrich  sell a P155/80R15 Radial TA which appears to
>>>> be
>>>> narrow enough (6.1") and small enough diameter (24.8") to fit into the
>>>> holder.
>>>> Has anyone tried those tires?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Michael S
>>>> BN1 3174
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>> --
>> *******************************************************************
>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>>
>> *******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "Paul Blake" <brumby1009@gmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 07:43:09 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac+niEKp2f7oeTQtRbiOYCJPBqSs1Q==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] 1959 100-6 (Chris Scholz)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Chris

I have a much loved 100 Six for more than 30 years now.  As your car is a
Abingdon built car the original engine should have the same engine number as
the chassis number I think, so the Heritage certificate is nice to have but
will not tell you much more about the engine.

 

My advice for rebuilding the engine would be to pay particular attention to
the rocker shaft and the camshaft and eliminate wear in the main bearings
and big ends as this is where your good oil pressure comes from.

I strongly recommend having the engine balanced (really smooths it out) and
fit one of the new aftermarket rear main bearing oil seals that are
available from AH Spares etc.  

 

Paul Blake 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 20:06:05 2014
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>, <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 02:05:52 +0000
References: <D6A64D75CE0E5D4B885C03FD707DB4A6B638E7@server.visioncenter.local>,
 <CACPMnYqO2RUqFfPg-jV8dYy3=mjyG=hSNLpNqsAWpin-DRYZFA@mail.gmail.com>,
 <2138F4A5-E60D-4043-BC1A-F180DFF936C6@visioncenterpc.com>
 FILETIME=[F6DFCF70:01CFA7AC]
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Before you start tearing the engine down perform the compression test dry and
wet, that is squirt a little oil in the cylinders. If the compression improves
the rings or cylinder bores are the problem. If the compression doesn't
improve the valves are at fault. You may get by with a valve job.

It could also be a worn camshaft, which might not require a full rebuild. If
the engine was rebuilt and not run in properly the cam and lifters may have
failed prematurely.

Bill Lawrence

> From: drscholz@visioncenterpc.com
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 23:36:08 -0500
> To: eyera3000@gmail.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
>
> Thanks for the help. How do I apply for a British Motor Heritage Trust
> certificate?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Chris Scholz OD
>
> > On Jul 23, 2014, at 5:42 PM, "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > What is the engine#? Sorry to hear of your issues. Are you rebuilding the
> engine or having it done? Do you have a British Motor Heritage Trust
> certificate? Otherwise could be hard to authenticate matching engine.
> We,xwtfvc=
> > / are here to help you source parts, provide advice and share horror
> stories.
> > Cheers
> >
> > I Erbs
> > IT Educator and Consultant
> > sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> >
> >> On Jul 23, 2014 12:50 PM, "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
> wrote:
> >> Greetings,
> >>
> >> My name is Chris from Muscatine Iowa--I bought my first Healey last
> summer--a
> >> beautiful 100-6, english old white with red coves and red interior with
a
> >> non-original rebuilt engine.   Car is in good shape but was running
poorly
> in
> >> 2013.  Found out the distributer and generator were bad, and there was
> some
> >> misalignment of the engine crank with the transmission.   That was all
> fixed
> >> this winter and the car was running good this spring, except for an
> occasional
> >> spit.
> >>
> >> It quit on me last month, and was backfiring and wouldn't run.  My
trusty
> >> mechanic checked the compression which was low, and barely within normal
> >> limits.   He did a leak-down test, and two or three cylinders are very
> poor.
> >> There is some black smoke on start-up.   It appears that this rebuilt
> engine
> >> from the previous owner is wore out.
> >>
> >> I have the original engine which has a thrown rod.   We are looking at
> >> overhauling the original motor and having the car be complete numbers
> >> matching.  I will have a core motor for sale shortly, including the
crank,
> >> etc, if anyone is interested.
> >>
> >> I am frustrated that I have to go through an overhaul, but will be
excited
> to
> >> have the car run like it was designed.  Transmission and overdrive are
in
> >> excellent shape, so that is good news.   Any advice is welcome.  I feel
> the
> >> car is worth more with the original engine.   We are not cutting any
> corners
> >> in the overhaul, since the rest of the car is in such good shape, we
want
> >> everything as close to perfect as possible.  Thanks.
> >>
> >> Chris Scholz
> >> 563-260-5067
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 24 20:22:30 2014
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From: "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2014 21:22:26 -0500
References: <D6A64D75CE0E5D4B885C03FD707DB4A6B638E7@server.visioncenter.local>
 <CACPMnYqO2RUqFfPg-jV8dYy3=mjyG=hSNLpNqsAWpin-DRYZFA@mail.gmail.com>
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thread-topic: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
thread-index: Ac+nrzh17YHwnqfNRUypAnu4eE70Qw==
To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink@msn.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net, eyera3000@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, we are going to try the top end of the engine first. Thanks for the help.

Sent from my iPhone
Chris Scholz OD

> On Jul 24, 2014, at 9:04 PM, "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Before you start tearing the engine down perform the compression test dry
and wet, that is squirt a little oil in the cylinders. If the compression
improves the rings or cylinder bores are the problem. If the compression
doesn't improve the valves are at fault. You may get by with a valve job.
>
> It could also be a worn camshaft, which might not require a full rebuild. If
the engine was rebuilt and not run in properly the cam and lifters may have
failed prematurely.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> > From: drscholz@visioncenterpc.com
> > Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2014 23:36:08 -0500
> > To: eyera3000@gmail.com
> > CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
> >
> > Thanks for the help. How do I apply for a British Motor Heritage Trust
> > certificate?
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > Chris Scholz OD
> >
> > > On Jul 23, 2014, at 5:42 PM, "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > What is the engine#? Sorry to hear of your issues. Are you rebuilding
the
> > engine or having it done? Do you have a British Motor Heritage Trust
> > certificate? Otherwise could be hard to authenticate matching engine.
> > We,xwtfvc=
> > > / are here to help you source parts, provide advice and share horror
> > stories.
> > > Cheers
> > >
> > > I Erbs
> > > IT Educator and Consultant
> > > sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to
send.
> > >
> > >> On Jul 23, 2014 12:50 PM, "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
> > wrote:
> > >> Greetings,
> > >>
> > >> My name is Chris from Muscatine Iowa--I bought my first Healey last
> > summer--a
> > >> beautiful 100-6, english old white with red coves and red interior with
a
> > >> non-original rebuilt engine. Car is in good shape but was running
poorly
> > in
> > >> 2013. Found out the distributer and generator were bad, and there was
> > some
> > >> misalignment of the engine crank with the transmission. That was all
> > fixed
> > >> this winter and the car was running good this spring, except for an
> > occasional
> > >> spit.
> > >>
> > >> It quit on me last month, and was backfiring and wouldn't run. My
trusty
> > >> mechanic checked the compression which was low, and barely within
normal
> > >> limits. He did a leak-down test, and two or three cylinders are very
> > poor.
> > >> There is some black smoke on start-up. It appears that this rebuilt
> > engine
> > >> from the previous owner is wore out.
> > >>
> > >> I have the original engine which has a thrown rod. We are looking at
> > >> overhauling the original motor and having the car be complete numbers
> > >> matching. I will have a core motor for sale shortly, including the
crank,
> > >> etc, if anyone is interested.
> > >>
> > >> I am frustrated that I have to go through an overhaul, but will be
excited
> > to
> > >> have the car run like it was designed. Transmission and overdrive are
in
> > >> excellent shape, so that is good news. Any advice is welcome. I feel
> > the
> > >> car is worth more with the original engine. We are not cutting any
> > corners
> > >> in the overhaul, since the rest of the car is in such good shape, we
want
> > >> everything as close to perfect as possible. Thanks.
> > >>
> > >> Chris Scholz
> > >> 563-260-5067
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >>
> > >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >>
> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 25 07:55:34 2014
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References: <8D17265E4DE1AA7-2ECC-BA4F@webmail-d212.sysops.aol.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: warthodson@aol.com
Received: from 99.63.22.156 by webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com
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Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 09:55:21 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Tech Session
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

At Conclave this year Bruce Phillips & Tom Kovacs presented a Tech. Session
on the common problems they see in their shops & the proper solutions &
maintenance recommendations.

Does anyone know if this information was
recorded & if there is any intent to transcribe it into an article for the
Healey Marque or other form of distribution?
In a related topic, Bruce & Tom
seemed to be in agreement that if you are using points in your ignition the
best points are by Blue Streak. Does anyone know the Blue Streak part
number(s) & if Blue Streak brand is still available & where?
 
Gary Hodson
PS: Sorry if this is a duplicate.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Jul 25 13:34:03 2014
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From: "Robert F. Begani" <rfbegani@speakeasy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2014 15:33:45 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+oPoE2+I8PUucQQFaERKfhiwQXPA==
Content-Language: en-us
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Subject: [Healeys] Blue Streak Ignition Product
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Standard motor parts is a firm which primary product range was Blue Streak
Ignition parts.  It is still operating and manufacturing in the USA and has
bought up many ignition parts firms due to consolidation in the industry
during the past 30 years, Echlin, BWD, Niehoff and others.  Napa is a main
distributor of all their products, if you have a part number they should be
able to get the ignition part, i.e. points, condenser, coil and so on.
Harley Davidson, Tractor, and Truck vintage enthusiasts swear by the
quality. If napa cannot help you contact: smpcorp.com   Back in the day, I
knew some makers and shakers in this firm. I think it is still owned by the
original family even though it is on the NYSE 

Why do the English drink warm beer, Lucas refrigeration---Laugh

Bob Begani  BJ8 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 26 05:32:42 2014
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 11:32:30 +0000 (UTC)
From: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: "LIST, HEALEY" <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: using a synchrometer
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Subject: [Healeys] using a synchrometer
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1966 bj8
B 
whenB  tuning the carbs (hd8)B  and using the synchrometer to adjustB  and
balance air flow......................are the screw in dampers that go in the
top...B suppose to be installed or off the carbs??B B B B 
B 
Mitch
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 26 07:20:35 2014
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 07:20:00 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
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To: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>, "LIST, HEALEY"
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1594191021.39086839.1406374350338.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] using a synchrometer
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It won't matter at idle and that both are removed or installed..
dave
On 7/26/2014 5:32 AM, Mitch wrote:
> 1966 bj8
> B
> whenB  tuning the carbs (hd8)B  and using the synchrometer to adjustB  and
> balance air flow......................are the screw in dampers that go in the
> top...B suppose to be installed or off the carbs??B B B B
> B
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 26 09:22:27 2014
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 11:22:17 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Trivia Question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Things are a bit quiet on the list today so I have a trivia question.
Please send replies to me NOT the list so as not to ruin the question for
others.
Okay so....without resorting to Google.....:
What is the correct SU name for the washer used between the float chamber
lid and the float chamber body?
Tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick tick
tick tick tick tick tick tick...time's up!!!
I'll let you know who gets it right.

Michael S
BN1 #174
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 26 09:44:34 2014
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 17:44:29 +0200
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1594191021.39086839.1406374350338.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] using a synchrometer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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In theory it does not matter, but measure with the dampers fitted and 
filled up with the proper (thin) oil to get a more stable reading.
Kees Oudesluijs


Mitch schreef op 26-7-2014 13:32:
> 1966 bj8
> B
> whenB  tuning the carbs (hd8)B  and using the synchrometer to adjustB  and
> balance air flow......................are the screw in dampers that go in the
> top...B suppose to be installed or off the carbs??B B B B
> B
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7921 - datum van uitgifte: 07/25/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 26 13:33:22 2014
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 12:33:14 -0700
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Subject: [Healeys] Blue streak products
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I recently ordered Standard points and condenser from rockauto.com, using
Healey PNs from Standard's website:

 

LU206    condenser         $5.20

LU1316 points                  $6.27

 

The points are labeled as made in the US - not sure about the condenser
which is out for analysis at a manufacturer I know.

 

 

--

Steve Gerow

BN6
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 12:41:24 -0700
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Rear shock links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Has anyone got photos that they can either steer me to or send, of the rear shock and link setup for a BJ8.
The memory is slightly hazy- I've got everything together the way it seems logical to me, but would like some confirmation.
Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 13:53:55 -0700
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Rear shock links...done
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to Jean Caron...his photo showed me that I've got the right idea.

Stephen, BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 26 16:11:38 2014
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References: <006901cfa908$71eb6b00$55c24100$@com>
To: steveg@abrazosdata.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: warthodson@aol.com
Received: from 99.63.22.156 by webmail-va005.sysops.aol.com
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Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 18:11:31 -0400 (EDT)
x-aol-global-disposition: G
 s=20140625; t=1406412691;
 bh=vOLtZwoS+Qfsy4mz2K1JuWRjjnLFBnrFtIzjINxoAGg=;
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blue streak products
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Are the points labeled "Blue Streak"?
Gary Hodson
 
 
From: Steve Gerow
steveg@abrazosdata.com

I recently ordered Standard points and condenser from
rockauto.com, using
Healey PNs from Standard's website:

 
LU206    condenser
$5.20

LU1316 points                  $6.27

 
The points are labeled as made
in the US - not sure about the condenser
which is out for analysis at a
manufacturer I know.

Steve Gerow

BN6
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 26 18:37:07 2014
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From: "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 17:36:47 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+pMtlo4WOr8FvVSXKnzFLPAtd08A==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] LEDs for reflector conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I converted the reflectors on my BN7 to brake/turn lamps some 7 years ago.
Now I want to convert from the 20W halogen MR11 bulbs with the BA15D bayonet
base to LEDs, after the heat from one of the halogens deformed the
reflector.  Apparently I had the turn signal on for quite a while driving
back from California Healey Week.  However, sourcing a direct replacement
red LED MR11 style bulb is proving difficult.  I can find white LED MR11s
with the bayonet base, but so far not in red.  Anyone have any sources?
Thanks in advance.

 

Bruce

Brea, CA

1960 BN7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 26 18:39:38 2014
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: warthodson@aol.com
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 16:39:44 -0800
References: <006901cfa908$71eb6b00$55c24100$@com>
 <8D17735B0590B92-2528-38A01@webmail-va005.sysops.aol.com>
Cc: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Blue_streak_products?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary,
They're labelled "Standard", not "Blue Streak".
This link to the Blue Streak part of Standard's eCatalog will display the same part numbers I listed:
http://www.bluestreak.ca/engine%20management-bluestreak/content.aspx

Selected: 1960 Austin Healey 3000.


-- 
Steve Gerow
BN6


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: warthodson@aol.com
>  To: steveg@abrazosdata.com, healeys@autox.team.net
>  Subject: Re: [Healeys] Blue streak products
>  Sent: Jul 26 '14 14:11
>  
>  Are the points labeled "Blue Streak"?
>  Gary Hodson
>  
>  
>  From: Steve Gerow [LINK: mailto:steveg@abrazosdata.com]
>  steveg@abrazosdata.com
>  
>  
>  I recently ordered Standard points and condenser from rockauto.com, using
>  Healey PNs from Standard's website:    LU206    condenser         $5.20
>  LU1316 points                  $6.27    The points are labeled as made in
>  the US - not sure about the condenser which is out for analysis at a
>  manufacturer I know.  Steve Gerow  BN6
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Jul 26 21:02:33 2014
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References: <014b01cfa932$d9d35b40$8d7a11c0$@com>
Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2014 23:02:26 -0400
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: Healey Bruce <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LEDs for reflector conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bruce,

Try these guys.  I have purchased LED bulbs from them and they are good,
the bulbs and the service.

Fred

63 BJ 7


On Sat, Jul 26, 2014 at 8:36 PM, Healey Bruce <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
wrote:

> I converted the reflectors on my BN7 to brake/turn lamps some 7 years ago.
> Now I want to convert from the 20W halogen MR11 bulbs with the BA15D
> bayonet
> base to LEDs, after the heat from one of the halogens deformed the
> reflector.  Apparently I had the turn signal on for quite a while driving
> back from California Healey Week.  However, sourcing a direct replacement
> red LED MR11 style bulb is proving difficult.  I can find white LED MR11s
> with the bayonet base, but so far not in red.  Anyone have any sources?
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 01:05:01 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 09:04:44 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <014b01cfa932$d9d35b40$8d7a11c0$@com>
 <CAPAC+V7dNH0VMZYdg44HZAv4keKGiff48hAKQMU4x2nUp3f-mw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] LEDs for reflector conversion
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ebay is an excellent source. I buy my LED lights (even in the home) 
directly from China/Hong Kong for a few Euro's/Pounds/Dollars including 
the shipping. I do not understand how they do it as posting a letter 
would be more expensive than what I pay for the lights plus postage.
Never had any issues with the quality.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL




Fred Wescoe schreef op 27-7-2014 5:02:
> Bruce,
>
> Try these guys.  I have purchased LED bulbs from them and they are good,
> the bulbs and the service.
>
> Fred
>
> 63 BJ 7
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 26, 2014 at 8:36 PM, Healey Bruce <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I converted the reflectors on my BN7 to brake/turn lamps some 7 years ago.
>> Now I want to convert from the 20W halogen MR11 bulbs with the BA15D
>> bayonet
>> base to LEDs, after the heat from one of the halogens deformed the
>> reflector.  Apparently I had the turn signal on for quite a while driving
>> back from California Healey Week.  However, sourcing a direct replacement
>> red LED MR11 style bulb is proving difficult.  I can find white LED MR11s
>> with the bayonet base, but so far not in red.  Anyone have any sources?
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce
>>
>> Brea, CA
>>
>> 1960 BN7
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7925 - datum van uitgifte: 07/26/14
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 03:18:00 2014
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From: "Niels Bengaard" <bengaard@850r.dk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 11:17:51 +0200
Thread-Index: Ac+pe6QONern0r4JQlCpzX8HOdaa0Q==
Content-Language: da
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Large oil consumption
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi

 

Just returned from a trip from Denmark to England in my BJ8. I will write a
story about that later, it was great.

There were no problems with the car except for large oil consumption and oil
spillage.

 

The undercarriage was covered in oil and the oil consumption was from max to
min on the oil stick in 250 miles.

I have an idea that it's the rocker assembly that's worn down, take a look
at the videos.

Also some leak from the rear axle, since there were oil under the rear seats
and the rear exhaust system.

What about the leak around the engine / gearbox?

The engine is restored 10000 miles ago by previous owner, don't know the
extent, except it should have been rebored with new pistons and Denis Welch
oil pump. New type of seal on the crank and head made to lead free fuel.

 

http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Oil%20Consumption%202014/
index.html

 

What is normal oil consumption?

 

Hope you have some ideas

Niels Bengaard, Denmark
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 03:27:34 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 17:27:39 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Niels Bengaard <bengaard@850r.dk>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Large oil consumption
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Niels -

If the oil feed banjo bolt is loose, then excess oil will leak into the
rocker area.  I'd check that first before assuming the worst.  Also, was
your oil pressure showing high?  If it's too high you'll get a similar
result.

On the rear axle, if you are getting any leakage around your hubs, check to
make sure the lug nuts are tight on the spline hub.  If they aren't tight,
it will leak and your hub studs will wear out!  If it's all set up
correctly with paper gasket and o-ring, then it should NOT leak if the hub
is tightly bolted per the manual spec.

Also, if recently rebuilt with rear crank seal, there's no where for excess
crankcase pressure to go, so it pushes oil out every possible spot it can -
especially on long trips.  Suggest you install a PCV (easy to do) which
will help equalize the pressure in the crankcase, I think you will find
this is your problem.

If your motor was recently rebuilt, then the oil problem is related to the
rebuild and stuff not being properly sorted just yet.  I'd be very
surprised if anything is actually wrong with the motor itself, it's just
not sorted properly, that's all.

Best,

Alan

On Sunday, July 27, 2014, Niels Bengaard <bengaard@850r.dk> wrote:

> Hi
>
>
>
> Just returned from a trip from Denmark to England in my BJ8. I will write a
> story about that later, it was great.
>
> There were no problems with the car except for large oil consumption and
> oil
> spillage.
>
>
>
> The undercarriage was covered in oil and the oil consumption was from max
> to
> min on the oil stick in 250 miles.
>
> I have an idea that it's the rocker assembly that's worn down, take a look
> at the videos.
>
> Also some leak from the rear axle, since there were oil under the rear
> seats
> and the rear exhaust system.
>
> What about the leak around the engine / gearbox?
>
> The engine is restored 10000 miles ago by previous owner, don't know the
> extent, except it should have been rebored with new pistons and Denis Welch
> oil pump. New type of seal on the crank and head made to lead free fuel.
>
>
>
>
> http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Oil%20Consumption%202014/
> index.html
>
>
>
> What is normal oil consumption?
>
>
>
> Hope you have some ideas
>
> Niels Bengaard, Denmark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 03:59:20 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 19:49:17 +1000
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <000001cfa97b$a48e3b50$edaab1f0$@dk>
 more information
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Large oil consumption
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Niels, the car should not consume that much oil, however from the images 
this does not seem to be a fully restored car. You sound frustrated buy 
the scope of the problems, remember this is a very old car and you have 
to work through problems methodically. Or have the whole car thoroughly 
restored. The leaks from the rear axle are a minor problem, and not 
difficult to fix. You need to thoroughly clean the engine, do some short 
trips and see if the oil consumption is from leaks or the engine 
consuming it. Just because it was the engine was restored recently does 
not mean it was done correctly. Most Healeys will leak some oil, however 
while the leak can be messy, it doesn't relate to the oil consumption 
your talking about. A teaspoon of oil makes a big oil puddle. Look to 
where the leaks are coming from, hopefully not into the bell housing 
from the rear crank main seal! If you have lots of leaks work through 
them 1 by 1. The diff oil leaks can be fixed in a weekend with a few 
gaskets and seals, not a big deal.
Cheers
Larry Varley
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 12:51:02 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <000001cfa97b$a48e3b50$edaab1f0$@dk>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Large oil consumption
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Clean your engine thoroughly, so you can notice where the oil is coming 
from on a short trip, or even running the engine stationary. Also make 
sure your crankcase ventilation (whatever system is fitted) is not 
blocked. Most common external leaks are:
front crankshaft seal
rear crankshaft seal
crank case ventilation blocked, resulting in oil being blown past the seals
rocker cover (distortion or gasket; sealing of nuts)
external oil pipes and their connections
distributor housing
sump (distortion or gasket, sometimes pin holed because of dents)

Sealing the diff and rear axle is straight forward enough, see WSM. 
However smell the leaked oil first to see if the oil is EP oil from the 
diff or engine oil sprayed from the engine.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Niels Bengaard schreef op 27-7-2014 11:17:
> Hi
>
>   
>
> Just returned from a trip from Denmark to England in my BJ8. I will write a
> story about that later, it was great.
>
> There were no problems with the car except for large oil consumption and oil
> spillage.
>
>   
>
> The undercarriage was covered in oil and the oil consumption was from max to
> min on the oil stick in 250 miles.
>
> I have an idea that it's the rocker assembly that's worn down, take a look
> at the videos.
>
> Also some leak from the rear axle, since there were oil under the rear seats
> and the rear exhaust system.
>
> What about the leak around the engine / gearbox?
>
> The engine is restored 10000 miles ago by previous owner, don't know the
> extent, except it should have been rebored with new pistons and Denis Welch
> oil pump. New type of seal on the crank and head made to lead free fuel.
>
>   
>
> http://healey.850r.dk/albums/Picture%20Album/album/Oil%20Consumption%202014/
> index.html
>
>   
>
> What is normal oil consumption?
>
>   
>
> Hope you have some ideas
>
> Niels Bengaard, Denmark
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7928 - datum van uitgifte: 07/27/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 05:37:23 2014
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References: <000001cfa97b$a48e3b50$edaab1f0$@dk>
 <53D4CB1D.1060504@cosmos.net.au>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 21:37:15 +1000
To: "varley@cosmos.net.au" <varley@cosmos.net.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Large oil consumption
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Larry is right.
Degrease your engine. Allow it to dry. Then, when your wife isn't home, borrow
her talcum powder...
Lightly sprinkle the talcum powder around the engine. Start the engine and
allow it to run for like 2 minutes.
Look for moisture in the talcum powder. Keep sprinkling higher.... Until you
find the leak. Alternatively, do it one area at a time.
Worst offenders are the rocker cover gaskets, side plate gaskets etc
The other reason you get rapid oil usage is lots of short trips, followed by a
long trip.....
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 27 Jul 2014, at 7:49 pm, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
>
> Niels, the car should not consume that much oil, however from the images
this does not seem to be a fully restored car. You sound frustrated buy the
scope of the problems, remember this is a very old car and you have to work
through problems methodically. Or have the whole car thoroughly restored. The
leaks from the rear axle are a minor problem, and not difficult to fix. You
need to thoroughly clean the engine, do some short trips and see if the oil
consumption is from leaks or the engine consuming it. Just because it was the
engine was restored recently does not mean it was done correctly. Most Healeys
will leak some oil, however while the leak can be messy, it doesn't relate to
the oil consumption your talking about. A teaspoon of oil makes a big oil
puddle. Look to where the leaks are coming from, hopefully not into the bell
housing from the rear crank main seal! If you have lots of leaks work through
them 1 by 1. The diff oil leaks can be fixed in a weekend with a few gaskets
and seals, not a big deal.
> Cheers
> Larry
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 10:10:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] brake light flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A friend put one of these on his triumph and I was impressed. As you are aware
our brake lights (BN-4) are small and low. With this connection you get a fast
flashing light (blinking rapidly). You can program 36 different intervals and
can be used with incandescent and LED lights. When the pedal is depressed it
will flash a number of times then disable itself to a solid light with the
flashing activated again after about 20 seconds if the pedal is pushed again.
Seems simple to install. Anyone know of this or is using one?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 10:51:29 -0400
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Doc,

I have installed this brake flasher on my BJ7.  The flasher blinks 4 times
before going solid red.  The 4 flash sequence was the longest flashing
sequence I could program giving me a greater confidence that the drivers
behind me actually saw me apply the brakes.  All of this assuming they are
not on the phone and watching what they are doing.

I have also installed the flasher on a couple of other cars that are used
daily in bumper to bumper traffic.  Those cars have not been rear ended
since the instal.  Granted those tail lights are much higher than ours.

I also installed a third brake light and and converted my reflectors to
work like tail lights.  All of the bulbs have been changed to very bright
LED bulbs.  The flasher is installed so that it flashes all of the lights
as well.  I had not been rear ended before the flasher install nor have I
been rear ended since the install.  I can tell you that cars behind me are
coming to a full stop further behind me than before.

I can also tell you that I now have a tendency to keep a greater distance
between me and the car in front of me.  As I start to brake, I watch the
cars behind me and with the greater distance behind the car in front of me,
I have additional time to take defensive actions.

I really started doing the distance thing after a cop broadsided me and
totaled my daily driver.  The cop was on his cell phone.  He did not get a
ticket but I was absolved of all blame.  This has nothing to do with the
brake lights, just an indication that even cops are not immune to the
failure to pay attention while driving and therefore are causing accidents.

Do the flashers really help?  I think the real secret to the flasher
working is to start my braking process earlier and keeping a sharper eye on
the drivers behind me.  Combine all of that with the greater distances and
I feel better.

Fred


On Sun, Jul 27, 2014 at 10:10 AM, Dr. C. Rubino <ruvino@ripnet.com> wrote:

> A friend put one of these on his triumph and I was impressed. As you are
> aware
> our brake lights (BN-4) are small and low. With this connection you get a
> fast
> flashing light (blinking rapidly). You can program 36 different intervals
> and
> can be used with incandescent and LED lights. When the pedal is depressed
> it
> will flash a number of times then disable itself to a solid light with the
> flashing activated again after about 20 seconds if the pedal is pushed
> again.
> Seems simple to install. Anyone know of this or is using one?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe@gmail.com
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Large oil consumption
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Alan,
I often read about installing a PCV to help reduce oil leak issues. I
know there is more that one way to plumb a PCV, but I do not understand how it
could help reduce oil leaks when compared to an engine which is plumbed with
the original crankcase ventilation system (PCV) & no owner installed
modifications (except the rear crankshaft seal). 

Gary Hodson  
 
 
From:
Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Large oil
consumption
Also, if recently rebuilt with rear crank seal, there's no where
for excess
crankcase pressure to go, so it pushes oil out every possible spot
it can -
especially on long trips.  you install a PCV (easy to do) which
will
help equalize the pressure in the crankcase, I think you will find
this is
your problem.
Best,

Alan
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 17:59:43 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <A6D87C253D5D4098B251AEB4EEAFD939@HPp6520f>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

These devices were very popular about 30 years ago in Europe. In the end 
they disappeared as they were considered illegal by the authorities as 
they were not homologated.
I think they are fairly effective but check your insurance company and 
the authorities first if they are allowed for public road use in your place.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Dr. C. Rubino schreef op 27-7-2014 16:10:
> A friend put one of these on his triumph and I was impressed. As you are aware
> our brake lights (BN-4) are small and low. With this connection you get a fast
> flashing light (blinking rapidly). You can program 36 different intervals and
> can be used with incandescent and LED lights. When the pedal is depressed it
> will flash a number of times then disable itself to a solid light with the
> flashing activated again after about 20 seconds if the pedal is pushed again.
> Seems simple to install. Anyone know of this or is using one?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>
> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7928 - datum van uitgifte: 07/27/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 14:27:21 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 13:27:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
 tests=NO_REAL_NAME
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Subject: [Healeys] nasty boy trivia
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I am reading John Morton's book on recollections of the Shelby shop in the early days. Mechanic Ted Sutton was given the task of putting the first 427 into a 289 Cobra because Ted had put a Ford 289 into a Healey and impressed Phil Remington with the neat job. The book doesn't say if Ted had a 100 or 3000. If someone can trace their nasty boy back to Ted Sutton, that would be neat.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 14:46:59 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 16:46:59 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: goldengt@cal.net, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1051641986.10462.1406492822912.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] nasty boy trivia
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

How about this?

http://www.carnut.ca/images/carinfo/Carinfo_blank.html

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 07/27/2014 04:27 PM, goldengt@cal.net wrote:
> I am reading John Morton's book on recollections of the Shelby shop in the early days. Mechanic Ted Sutton was given the task of putting the first 427 into a 289 Cobra because Ted had put a Ford 289 into a Healey and impressed Phil Remington with the neat job. The book doesn't say if Ted had a 100 or 3000. If someone can trace their nasty boy back to Ted Sutton, that would be neat.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 15:36:35 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] brake light flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

In the U.S., in the past few years, Hyundai has introduced a brake light flasher.  As I observe its operation, it appears to flash three times before going steady.

This is the only factory-installed brake light flasher that I recall being available here, so its uniqueness may draw attention, in traffic.

Bob


Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 17:59:43 +0200
From: Oudesluys<coudesluijs@chello.nl>
To:healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light flasher
Message-ID:<53D521EF.9010905@chello.nl>

These devices were very popular about 30 years ago in Europe. In the end
they disappeared as they were considered illegal by the authorities as
they were not homologated.
I think they are fairly effective but check your insurance company and
the authorities first if they are allowed for public road use in your place.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Dr. C. Rubino schreef op 27-7-2014 16:10:

> A friend put one of these on his triumph and I was impressed. As you are aware
> our brake lights (BN-4) are small and low. With this connection you get a fast
> flashing light (blinking rapidly). You can program 36 different intervals and
> can be used with incandescent and LED lights. When the pedal is depressed it
> will flash a number of times then disable itself to a solid light with the
> flashing activated again after about 20 seconds if the pedal is pushed again.
> Seems simple to install. Anyone know of this or is using one?
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 16:04:41 2014
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From: Warren <flyhihealey@hotmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 18:04:42 -0400
References: <A6D87C253D5D4098B251AEB4EEAFD939@HPp6520f>
 FILETIME=[C54724E0:01CFA9E6]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Flashing brake lights.......................put one on my Healey a few years
ago. Keeps the tailgaters at bay.


               http://www.flashingbrakelights.com/








> From: ruvino@ripnet.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 10:10:51 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] brake light flasher
>
> A friend put one of these on his triumph and I was impressed. As you are
aware
> our brake lights (BN-4) are small and low. With this connection you get a
fast
> flashing light (blinking rapidly). You can program 36 different intervals
and
> can be used with incandescent and LED lights. When the pedal is depressed
it
> will flash a number of times then disable itself to a solid light with the
> flashing activated again after about 20 seconds if the pedal is pushed
again.
> Seems simple to install. Anyone know of this or is using one?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/flyhihealey@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 16:12:55 2014
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From: "White, Stephen" <stephen.white@wku.edu>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] brake light flasher
Thread-Index: AQHPqaTUep5zPL+YvEuGsP+VIf0Qxpu0zhAA//+tJKA=
Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 22:10:42 +0000
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 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=1000.0 KILL_LEVEL=3.0 tests=
 breakdown below pts rule name              description ----
 ----------------------
 --------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The three flashes and then steady are what comes standard equipment on Texas
Choppers.  Although custom bikes, I imagine the builders have researched the
legality.   Definitely helps with visibility.

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Warren
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2014 5:05 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light flasher

Flashing brake lights.......................put one on my Healey a few years
ago. Keeps the tailgaters at bay.


               http://www.flashingbrakelights.com/








> From: ruvino@ripnet.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 10:10:51 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] brake light flasher
>
> A friend put one of these on his triumph and I was impressed. As you
> are
aware
> our brake lights (BN-4) are small and low. With this connection you
> get a
fast
> flashing light (blinking rapidly). You can program 36 different
> intervals
and
> can be used with incandescent and LED lights. When the pedal is
> depressed
it
> will flash a number of times then disable itself to a solid light with
> the flashing activated again after about 20 seconds if the pedal is
> pushed
again.
> Seems simple to install. Anyone know of this or is using one?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/flyhihealey@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 16:41:00 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 15:40:56 -0700
From: "rrengineer.mike" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: "R. Cobb" <rcobb@earthlink.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Modules for this brake light conversion has been available for motorcycles for many years.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

Sent via the Samsung GALAXY SB. 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "R. Cobb" <rcobb@earthlink.net> 
Date:07/27/2014  14:36  (GMT-08:00) 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] brake light flasher 

In the U.S., in the past few years, Hyundai has introduced a brake light flasher.  As I observe its operation, it appears to flash three times before going steady.

This is the only factory-installed brake light flasher that I recall being available here, so its uniqueness may draw attention, in traffic.

Bob


Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 17:59:43 +0200
From: Oudesluys<coudesluijs@chello.nl>
To:healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light flasher
Message-ID:<53D521EF.9010905@chello.nl>

These devices were very popular about 30 years ago in Europe. In the end
they disappeared as they were considered illegal by the authorities as
they were not homologated.
I think they are fairly effective but check your insurance company and
the authorities first if they are allowed for public road use in your place.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Dr. C. Rubino schreef op 27-7-2014 16:10:

> A friend put one of these on his triumph and I was impressed. As you are aware
> our brake lights (BN-4) are small and low. With this connection you get a fast
> flashing light (blinking rapidly). You can program 36 different intervals and
> can be used with incandescent and LED lights. When the pedal is depressed it
> will flash a number of times then disable itself to a solid light with the
> flashing activated again after about 20 seconds if the pedal is pushed again.
> Seems simple to install. Anyone know of this or is using one?
> _______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 15:44:07 -0700
From: "rrengineer.mike" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: "White, Stephen" <stephen.white@wku.edu>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light flasher
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

These flasher units are legal in California.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5


Sent via the Samsung GALAXY SB. 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "White, Stephen" <stephen.white@wku.edu> 
Date:07/27/2014  15:10  (GMT-08:00) 
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light flasher 

The three flashes and then steady are what comes standard equipment on Texas
Choppers.  Although custom bikes, I imagine the builders have researched the
legality.   Definitely helps with visibility.

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Warren
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2014 5:05 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake light flasher

Flashing brake lights.......................put one on my Healey a few years
ago. Keeps the tailgaters at bay.


               http://www.flashingbrakelights.com/








> From: ruvino@ripnet.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 10:10:51 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] brake light flasher
>
> A friend put one of these on his triumph and I was impressed. As you
> are
aware
> our brake lights (BN-4) are small and low. With this connection you
> get a
fast
> flashing light (blinking rapidly). You can program 36 different
> intervals
and
> can be used with incandescent and LED lights. When the pedal is
> depressed
it
> will flash a number of times then disable itself to a solid light with
> the flashing activated again after about 20 seconds if the pedal is
> pushed
again.
> Seems simple to install. Anyone know of this or is using one?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/flyhihealey@hotmail.com
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 17:17:36 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 16:15:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] nasty boy trivia
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

amazing.
Ken

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
To: goldengt@cal.net, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2014 1:46:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] nasty boy trivia

How about this?

http://www.carnut.ca/images/carinfo/Carinfo_blank.html

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 07/27/2014 04:27 PM, goldengt@cal.net wrote:
> I am reading John Morton's book on recollections of the Shelby shop in the early days. Mechanic Ted Sutton was given the task of putting the first 427 into a 289 Cobra because Ted had put a Ford 289 into a Healey and impressed Phil Remington with the neat job. The book doesn't say if Ted had a 100 or 3000. If someone can trace their nasty boy back to Ted Sutton, that would be neat.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 17:48:00 2014
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Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2014 19:45:22 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] nasty boy trivia
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Very interesting.  Thanks for the link.  A couple of months ago I read a
comment on Bring a Trailer about a Shelby modified Healey (the commenter
described it as a 100-6).  I had read the stories of Carroll Shelby
approaching DMH to put a Chevy motor into the Healey, but the idea was
nixed by BMC and Chevrolet after which Shelby went to Ford and AC.  I
thought the BaT commenter might have confused this story with the Ford in a
Healey story and asked on the Modified Healey list if anyone had heard of a
Shelby-Healey, which no one had.  Anyway, this confirms the Shelby-Healey
story.  I see the link was from 2011 with a promise to write the full story
of the car, which I'd love to see, but assume it wasn't written.  The small
block Ford installation in a Healey looks very natural and doesn't require
a lot of cutting (just some narrowing of the footboxes)  I'm off to spread
this to the Nasty Boy guys.


Rick

"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


On Sun, Jul 27, 2014 at 4:46 PM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
wrote:

> How about this?
>
> http://www.carnut.ca/images/carinfo/Carinfo_blank.html
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 07/27/2014 04:27 PM, goldengt@cal.net wrote:
>
>> I am reading John Morton's book on recollections of the Shelby shop in
>> the early days. Mechanic Ted Sutton was given the task of putting the first
>> 427 into a 289 Cobra because Ted had put a Ford 289 into a Healey and
>> impressed Phil Remington with the neat job. The book doesn't say if Ted had
>> a 100 or 3000. If someone can trace their nasty boy back to Ted Sutton,
>> that would be neat.
>> Ken Freese
>> 65 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Jul 27 19:08:41 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 09:08:35 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "Warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Large oil consumption
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gary -

If it is hooked up correctly, you will plumb the PCV into the intake
manifold which is always under negative pressure when the engine is
running.  The PCV is just a one way valve.  Basically, directly plumbed
into the intake manifold would put the crankcase under a mild negative
pressure, meaning that oil ... rather than being pushed out the gaps in
gaskets (with normal positive pressure in the crankcase) ... the oil will
naturally want to stay in the crankcase.  You need a PCV because if you get
any sort of prefire in the intake manifold, you don't want it blowing back
into the crankcase.  The PCV has the added advantage of recycling unburned
hydrocarbons back into your combustion chamber, hence why they first
appeared on pollution controlled vehicles in the late 60s.  This is one
pollution control device that actually is good for the running of your
motor and generally helps burn off excess fuel and oil.

Best,

Alan


On Sun, Jul 27, 2014 at 11:54 PM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

> Alan,
> I often read about installing a PCV to help reduce oil leak issues. I know
> there is more that one way to plumb a PCV, but I do not understand how it
> could help reduce oil leaks when compared to an engine which is plumbed
> with the original crankcase ventilation system (PCV) & no owner installed
> modifications (except the rear crankshaft seal).
>
> Gary Hodson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 18:21:10 +1000
To: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just saw this, via the Healey Museum Facebook. 
http://www.silverstoneclassic.com/press/Official-Statement
Rest in Peace Denis Welch. 
Healey "King of the Mountain" Bathurst 1998. 
I'm to shocked to say anything else. 
Sincerely Chris
www.myaustinhealey.com/ 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 02:48:09 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 16:48:10 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Denis Welch
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

oh my, horrible news.


On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 4:21 PM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I just saw this, via the Healey Museum Facebook.
> http://www.silverstoneclassic.com/press/Official-Statement
> Rest in Peace Denis Welch.
> Healey "King of the Mountain" Bathurst 1998.
> I'm to shocked to say anything else.
> Sincerely Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 03:28:42 2014
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 19:28:29 +1000
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Denis Welch
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://m.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/115183
RIP Denis

Sent from my iPhone

> On 28 Jul 2014, at 6:48 pm, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> oh my, horrible news.
>
>
>> On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 4:21 PM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
wrote:
>> I just saw this, via the Healey Museum Facebook.
>> http://www.silverstoneclassic.com/press/Official-Statement
>> Rest in Peace Denis Welch.
>> Healey "King of the Mountain" Bathurst 1998.
>> I'm to shocked to say anything else.
>> Sincerely Chris
>> www.myaustinhealey.com/
>> __________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 04:09:27 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 06:09:27 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Denis Welch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Very sad to hear.


On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 4:21 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
wrote:

> I just saw this, via the Healey Museum Facebook.
> http://www.silverstoneclassic.com/press/Official-Statement
> Rest in Peace Denis Welch.
> Healey "King of the Mountain" Bathurst 1998.
> I'm to shocked to say anything else.
> Sincerely Chris
> www.myaustinhealey.com/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 04:54:14 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 18:54:09 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Denis Welch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Looks to me like a piece of suspension broke and he had zero steering
control... right into the Pits Straight wall at the end... I've never seen
a car go flying into a straights wall so fast... freak accident.
 Interesting but if they built the crash barrier about 20 meters closer to
the track, or if it was gravel there instead of grass, he probably would
have survived.

Terrible terrible.


On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 6:09 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com> wrote:

> Very sad to hear.
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 4:21 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > I just saw this, via the Healey Museum Facebook.
> > http://www.silverstoneclassic.com/press/Official-Statement
> > Rest in Peace Denis Welch.
> > Healey "King of the Mountain" Bathurst 1998.
> > I'm to shocked to say anything else.
> > Sincerely Chris
> > www.myaustinhealey.com/
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 04:58:53 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 18:58:59 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Denis Welch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh, I think I was commenting on the one where the driver broke his leg,
sorry.


On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 6:54 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> Looks to me like a piece of suspension broke and he had zero steering
> control... right into the Pits Straight wall at the end... I've never seen
> a car go flying into a straights wall so fast... freak accident.
>  Interesting but if they built the crash barrier about 20 meters closer to
> the track, or if it was gravel there instead of grass, he probably would
> have survived.
>
> Terrible terrible.
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 6:09 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Very sad to hear.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 4:21 AM, Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > I just saw this, via the Healey Museum Facebook.
>> > http://www.silverstoneclassic.com/press/Official-Statement
>> > Rest in Peace Denis Welch.
>> > Healey "King of the Mountain" Bathurst 1998.
>> > I'm to shocked to say anything else.
>> > Sincerely Chris
>> > www.myaustinhealey.com/
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >
>> > Healeys@autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 06:09:54 2014
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 08:06:33 -0400
Thread-index: Ac+o4p2PNP7QjIeCSPaXaBadmssi2Q==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] End of an era
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The time has come. I have decided to put my BN6 on the market. Over the past
year I have driven it only a few times due to adverse weather conditions and
other interests. And, I am getting a little too old (74) to keep crawling
under it for repairs the latest of which was to replace the cables from the
battery to the starter solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. With
my arthritis, just lifting the car onto jack stands takes too much effort.
Anyway, over the next few weeks I will be placing it for sale, first in club
magazines and then on eBay. At the same time, I have an extensive library of
books - Pikovnik Guide to Historic Colors book, Moment Anderson autographed
book, etc. as well as many tools such as Whitworth spanners and sockets,
Pozidriv screwdrivers, various specialized nut removal tools (steering wheel
nut, hub nut, etc.) that I will no longer need. These will be listed on my
web site and then on eBay.

 

After the sale, I will continue to manage my web site at least until the
expiration of the current registration term which will be in June of 2016,
will monitor the Healey List and will contribute to the Healey Marque
Magazine. After that time, who knows. If anyone wants to volunteer to run
the web site and/or contribute articles, let me know.

 

I have been a Healey fanatic since 1958 and heavily involved since 1995 and
have enjoyed every minute of my participation. 

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

 <http://www.healey6.com> www.healey6.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 06:26:36 2014
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 08:26:21 -0400
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,
You have been such a great resource for all those who own and like Healeys!
You have contributed so much to furthering the cause and enriching the Healey
experience. We are all in your debt.

I have taken advantage of the information on your site more times than I can
imagine. Thank you so much for all that you have done on our behalf!

It is certainly sad to see that you are selling your car, but we are only
stewards of the automobiles. Hopefully it will go to another generation of
owners who will also add to the joy of these great cars.

I wish you all the best!

Lin Rose
AN5
BT7

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 28, 2014, at 8:06 AM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> The time has come. I have decided to put my BN6 on the market. Over the
past
> year I have driven it only a few times due to adverse weather conditions
and
> other interests. And, I am getting a little too old (74) to keep crawling
> under it for repairs the latest of which was to replace the cables from the
> battery to the starter solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. With
> my arthritis, just lifting the car onto jack stands takes too much effort.
> Anyway, over the next few weeks I will be placing it for sale, first in
club
> magazines and then on eBay. At the same time, I have an extensive library
of
> books - Pikovnik Guide to Historic Colors book, Moment Anderson autographed
> book, etc. as well as many tools such as Whitworth spanners and sockets,
> Pozidriv screwdrivers, various specialized nut removal tools (steering
wheel
> nut, hub nut, etc.) that I will no longer need. These will be listed on my
> web site and then on eBay.
>
>
>
> After the sale, I will continue to manage my web site at least until the
> expiration of the current registration term which will be in June of 2016,
> will monitor the Healey List and will contribute to the Healey Marque
> Magazine. After that time, who knows. If anyone wants to volunteer to run
> the web site and/or contribute articles, let me know.
>
>
>
> I have been a Healey fanatic since 1958 and heavily involved since 1995 and
> have enjoyed every minute of my participation.
>
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
>
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
>
> <http://www.healey6.com> www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose@mac.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 07:00:51 2014
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 <BD4134A2-1465-4E97-A25C-CECF76252FC8@mac.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 09:00:47 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
To: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

Let me add my voice to Lin's and I'm sure others to follow.  I can't say
how many times I've looked to your website for answers to technical
questions, Healey history, or just some entertainment.  And it's been my
pleasure to refer so many new enthusiasts to Healey6 when they've had
"newbie" questions.  Perhaps without even realizing it, you've built what I
consider the best online resource for Healey information.  Your dedication
to helping the rest of us in the Healey world is much admired and
appreciated.  It would be a huge loss for that information that you've
collected to disappear from the internet.  Whatever we can do as a
community to keep it going, please let us know.

Again, thanks for all your good work and wishing you the best in the future.

Rick Neville


On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 8:26 AM, Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com> wrote:

> John,
> You have been such a great resource for all those who own and like Healeys!
> You have contributed so much to furthering the cause and enriching the
> Healey
> experience. We are all in your debt.
>
> I have taken advantage of the information on your site more times than I
> can
> imagine. Thank you so much for all that you have done on our behalf!
>
> It is certainly sad to see that you are selling your car, but we are only
> stewards of the automobiles. Hopefully it will go to another generation of
> owners who will also add to the joy of these great cars.
>
> I wish you all the best!
>
> Lin Rose
> AN5
> BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 07:25:24 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 09:24:58 -0400
From: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
 s=q20140121; t=1406553897;
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Subject: [Healeys] Baby S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I found this looking for the Big Healey in today's Bring-A-Trailer email 
-- a Bugeye Sprite done up as a 100 S tribute.  I like it, but not to 
the tune of the $30-40K auction estimate.

http://www.auctionsamerica.com/events/feature-lots.cfm?SaleCode=CA14&ID=r0099

Disclaimer: NFI, etc.

--
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN2
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 07:28:04 2014
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References: <002101cfaa5c$60389db0$20a9d910$@verizon.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 23:27:58 +1000
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John.
Bloody hell mate!!
I went to sleep very late last night, after watching this young reprobate
Aussie bloke called Dan Riccardo win his 2nd F1 GP. How good was that!!!
A pretty uneventful day in the office, check this arvo on Facebook - and Denis
Welch has died in a race incident at Silverstone.
http://m.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/115183
By now, my euphoria from Dan's win is all gone.
Denis Welch died at Silverstone on the weekend. Denis shared his race secrets
with all of us amateurs. And his parts.
Who raced the old Nurburgring, in a Healey? That would be Denis Welch.
Who had 2 wins. A second. And a 3rd. In 4 years?? In a 10 lap race, on a 26 km
track, with 180 cars?. Yes. One Hundred and eighty cars on the grid?
That would be Denis Welch.
RIP Denis.
Now you're leaving us too??
Seriously John?
Too much bad news in one day for me...

> On 28 Jul 2014, at 10:06 pm, "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> The time has come. I have decided to put my BN6 on the market. Over the
past
> year I have driven it only a few times due to adverse weather conditions
and
> other interests. And, I am getting a little too old (74) to keep crawling
> under it for repairs the latest of which was ...
> my arthritis, just lifting the car onto jack stands takes too much ...
> After the sale, I will continue to manage my web site at least until the
> expiration of the current registration term which will be in June of 2016,
> will monitor the Healey List and will contribute to the Healey Marque
> Magazine. After that time, who knows. If anyone wants to volunteer to run
> the web site and/or contribute articles, let me know.
> I have been a Healey fanatic since 1958 and heavily involved since 1995 and
> have enjoyed every minute of my participation
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 08:41:40 2014
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References: <53D64F2A.8020607@comcast.net>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 10:40:31 -0400
To: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Baby S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I saw this car, or one like it, at Conclave 2002 in Lake Tahoe.  It was
very cute and well done.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 9:24 AM, Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net> wrote:

> I found this looking for the Big Healey in today's Bring-A-Trailer email
> -- a Bugeye Sprite done up as a 100 S tribute.  I like it, but not to the
> tune of the $30-40K auction estimate.
>
> http://www.auctionsamerica.com/events/feature-lots.cfm?
> SaleCode=CA14&ID=r0099
>
> Disclaimer: NFI, etc.
>
> --
> Kent McLean
> '56 100 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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 DT6IQ9g96HIJPr4T.uqM6wyqNeX6plJMrcy22Cc_ewR.bpLz1KrTLro8c6Xe
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 DjRXTwEF9EQ.s3nIGQOqXGSs.F2kg74so4ok_cuPKgcc78N12pO281QsS87n
 WEMtI2sfWfARfC.n3h8pbLMKdaaOJ7wyZqJlaaDi0A.KWS8xV.9p2hlSPmof
 UK9SzZi.QSgmw3tk9UZOK8NO6979dPDWWtU_9MPcT2IQeDxR.xw--
From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Michael Oritt" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, "Kent McLean"
 <kentmclean@comcast.net>
References: <53D64F2A.8020607@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B5-cbtyRNrC9HXouv-foSaRXDYrZgio2ANd17bj0=T1SA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 07:58:36 -0700
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Baby S
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes this is the same car that was at Tahoe in 2002. The car was just 
finished prior to that and was sold by the owner / builder about 5 years 
ago.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 7:40 AM
To: Kent McLean
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Baby S

I saw this car, or one like it, at Conclave 2002 in Lake Tahoe.  It was
very cute and well done.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 9:24 AM, Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net> wrote:

> I found this looking for the Big Healey in today's Bring-A-Trailer email
> -- a Bugeye Sprite done up as a 100 S tribute.  I like it, but not to the
> tune of the $30-40K auction estimate.
>
> http://www.auctionsamerica.com/events/feature-lots.cfm?
> SaleCode=CA14&ID=r0099
>
> Disclaimer: NFI, etc.
>
> --
> Kent McLean
> '56 100 BN2
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 09:13:38 2014
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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'HealeyRick'" <healeyrik@gmail.com>
References: <1051641986.10462.1406492822912.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
 <53D56543.10801@earthlink.net> <Xbo31o02D0NyJgq01bo5yD>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 08:13:41 -0700
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Content-Language: en-us
Cc: 'healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] nasty boy trivia
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe there is at least 1 MGA that was converted by the Shelby group as
well.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
HealeyRick
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2014 4:45 PM
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] nasty boy trivia

Very interesting.  Thanks for the link.  A couple of months ago I read a
comment on Bring a Trailer about a Shelby modified Healey (the commenter
described it as a 100-6).  I had read the stories of Carroll Shelby
approaching DMH to put a Chevy motor into the Healey, but the idea was nixed
by BMC and Chevrolet after which Shelby went to Ford and AC.  I thought the
BaT commenter might have confused this story with the Ford in a Healey story
and asked on the Modified Healey list if anyone had heard of a
Shelby-Healey, which no one had.  Anyway, this confirms the Shelby-Healey
story.  I see the link was from 2011 with a promise to write the full story
of the car, which I'd love to see, but assume it wasn't written.  The small
block Ford installation in a Healey looks very natural and doesn't require a
lot of cutting (just some narrowing of the footboxes)  I'm off to spread
this to the Nasty Boy guys.


Rick

"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


On Sun, Jul 27, 2014 at 4:46 PM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
wrote:

> How about this?
>
> http://www.carnut.ca/images/carinfo/Carinfo_blank.html
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 07/27/2014 04:27 PM, goldengt@cal.net wrote:
>
>> I am reading John Morton's book on recollections of the Shelby shop 
>> in the early days. Mechanic Ted Sutton was given the task of putting 
>> the first
>> 427 into a 289 Cobra because Ted had put a Ford 289 into a Healey and 
>> impressed Phil Remington with the neat job. The book doesn't say if 
>> Ted had a 100 or 3000. If someone can trace their nasty boy back to 
>> Ted Sutton, that would be neat.
>> Ken Freese
>> 65 BJ8
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 09:46:42 2014
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Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Large oil consumption
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Alan,
Thanks for describing the correct plumbing. I have seen the Positive
Crankcase Ventilation (PVC) valve installed in the hose between the "T"
fitting on the valve cover & the air cleaner as well as many other variations.
I assume you are installing the PCV valve in a hose from the "T" fitting on
the valve cover to the intake manifold fitting. Correct? I guess my point is
that the original PCV system produces a mild negative pressure in the
crankcase & reduces oil leaks in an engine with or without a rear oil seal kit
if the rest of the engine is in good condition. No PVC system will prevent oil
leaks if the engine is in poor condition or the gaskets are leaking. The
original system also recycles unburned hydrocarbons, etc.
Gary Hodson
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Subject:
Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Large oil consumption

Gary -
If it is hooked up correctly,
you will plumb the PCV into the intake manifold which is always under negative
pressure when the engine is running.  The PCV is just a one way valve.
Basically, directly plumbed into the intake manifold would put the crankcase
under a mild negative pressure, meaning that oil ... rather than being pushed
out the gaps in gaskets (with normal positive pressure in the crankcase) ...
the oil will naturally want to stay in the crankcase.  You need a PCV because
if you get any sort of prefire in the intake manifold, you don't want it
blowing back into the crankcase.  The PCV has the added advantage of recycling
unburned hydrocarbons back into your combustion chamber, hence why they first
appeared on pollution controlled vehicles in the late 60s.  This is one
pollution control device that actually is good for the running of your motor
and generally helps burn off excess fuel and oil.
Best,
Alan
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 10:15:01 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 12:15:03 -0400
From: Tom Morrione <tjmorrio@colby.edu>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an Era
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

Thank you very very much for all you've done to help those of us who need
help with our cars. Your efforts to consolidate knowledge about so many
aspects of them are really appreciated and I sincerely hope that someone
steps up to carry your work forward.
Tom
65 BJ8  67 Bj8
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 11:36:37 2014
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Welch's death
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 The news of the death of Denis Welch is an unbelievable tragedy. The idea
that someone would actually get killed in a vintage racing accident is so
unlikely that we really have to ask what happened. I hope that vintage racing
organizations all over the world are asking for details on Welch's death to
learn whether it might have been prevented by better safety equipment (English
drivers often choose not to equip vintage race cars with modern style roll
bars, and even safety harnesses because they aren't "period"), less aggressive
driving and more active stewardship (English racing has a deserved reputation
for being more aggressive than what we tolerate in the U.S.), bad track
design, or just the luck of the situation.

To have a driver of this level of
experience die in a frequently raced style of race car is just unacceptable.
G.

 

Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz Club of
America
Editor at Large, Austin-Healey Magazine
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 12:45:31 2014
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From: "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
To: <editorgary@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2607.1406558428.5508.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <8D178A19877A580-2C0C-28D4@webmail-d290.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 11:45:15 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Welch's death
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

How terribly tragic and sad.  

Bruce
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 10:36 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Welch's death

 The news of the death of Denis Welch is an unbelievable tragedy. The idea
that someone would actually get killed in a vintage racing accident is so
unlikely that we really have to ask what happened. I hope that vintage
racing organizations all over the world are asking for details on Welch's
death to learn whether it might have been prevented by better safety
equipment (English drivers often choose not to equip vintage race cars with
modern style roll bars, and even safety harnesses because they aren't
"period"), less aggressive driving and more active stewardship (English
racing has a deserved reputation for being more aggressive than what we
tolerate in the U.S.), bad track design, or just the luck of the situation.

To have a driver of this level of
experience die in a frequently raced style of race car is just unacceptable.
G.

 

Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz Club of
America
Editor at Large, Austin-Healey Magazine
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 12:46:10 2014
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From: "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
To: "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>, "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <002101cfaa5c$60389db0$20a9d910$@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 11:46:05 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era
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John, thanks for all you've done for the hobby.

Bruce
Brea, CA
1960 BN7


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 5:07 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] End of an era

The time has come. I have decided to put my BN6 on the market. Over the past
year I have driven it only a few times due to adverse weather conditions and
other interests. And, I am getting a little too old (74) to keep crawling
under it for repairs the latest of which was to replace the cables from the
battery to the starter solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. With
my arthritis, just lifting the car onto jack stands takes too much effort.
Anyway, over the next few weeks I will be placing it for sale, first in club
magazines and then on eBay. At the same time, I have an extensive library of
books - Pikovnik Guide to Historic Colors book, Moment Anderson autographed
book, etc. as well as many tools such as Whitworth spanners and sockets,
Pozidriv screwdrivers, various specialized nut removal tools (steering wheel
nut, hub nut, etc.) that I will no longer need. These will be listed on my
web site and then on eBay.

 

After the sale, I will continue to manage my web site at least until the
expiration of the current registration term which will be in June of 2016,
will monitor the Healey List and will contribute to the Healey Marque
Magazine. After that time, who knows. If anyone wants to volunteer to run
the web site and/or contribute articles, let me know.

 

I have been a Healey fanatic since 1958 and heavily involved since 1995 and
have enjoyed every minute of my participation. 

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

 <http://www.healey6.com> www.healey6.com
$12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 13:45:28 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 15:45:27 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: editorgary@aol.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Welch's death
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Sad indeed, esp at a vintage race----but---we had a fatality at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix with an MGTD about 9 years ago.  And---this year-----------I and a few others came close to being hit by n out-of-control racer--he veered off the track, up an embankment and fought hard to keep it from entering the food tent where we were--he succeeded!

tom
---- editorgary@aol.com wrote: 

=============
 The news of the death of Denis Welch is an unbelievable tragedy. The idea
that someone would actually get killed in a vintage racing accident is so
unlikely that we really have to ask what happened. I hope that vintage racing
organizations all over the world are asking for details on Welch's death to
learn whether it might have been prevented by better safety equipment (English
drivers often choose not to equip vintage race cars with modern style roll
bars, and even safety harnesses because they aren't "period"), less aggressive
driving and more active stewardship (English racing has a deserved reputation
for being more aggressive than what we tolerate in the U.S.), bad track
design, or just the luck of the situation.

To have a driver of this level of
experience die in a frequently raced style of race car is just unacceptable.
G.

 

Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz Club of
America
Editor at Large, Austin-Healey Magazine
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 14:15:22 2014
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Welch's death
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editorgary@aol.com wrote:

>
> To have a driver of this level of
> experience die in a frequently raced style of race car is just unacceptable.
>

Being a Triumph guy, the one that hit me the hardest was Jack Drew's death back
in 2008. But those circumstances were quite different.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 14:20:37 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 22:20:39 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <002101cfaa5c$60389db0$20a9d910$@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Hi John,
This is a major set back not only for Austin Healey owners/restorers but 
for all enthusiasts for British cars. As a Landrover and Jensen Healey 
owner I often had a look and copied quite a few sections for reference 
to work on parts of my cars. Also some friends of mine with other UK 
cars used your site quite often.
I hope someone will continue your excellent work.
Cheers,
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

John Sims schreef op 28-7-2014 14:06:
> The time has come. I have decided to put my BN6 on the market. Over the past
> year I have driven it only a few times due to adverse weather conditions and
> other interests. And, I am getting a little too old (74) to keep crawling
> under it for repairs the latest of which was to replace the cables from the
> battery to the starter solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. With
> my arthritis, just lifting the car onto jack stands takes too much effort.
> Anyway, over the next few weeks I will be placing it for sale, first in club
> magazines and then on eBay. At the same time, I have an extensive library of
> books - Pikovnik Guide to Historic Colors book, Moment Anderson autographed
> book, etc. as well as many tools such as Whitworth spanners and sockets,
> Pozidriv screwdrivers, various specialized nut removal tools (steering wheel
> nut, hub nut, etc.) that I will no longer need. These will be listed on my
> web site and then on eBay.
>
>   
>
> After the sale, I will continue to manage my web site at least until the
> expiration of the current registration term which will be in June of 2016,
> will monitor the Healey List and will contribute to the Healey Marque
> Magazine. After that time, who knows. If anyone wants to volunteer to run
> the web site and/or contribute articles, let me know.
>
>   
>
> I have been a Healey fanatic since 1958 and heavily involved since 1995 and
> have enjoyed every minute of my participation.
>
>   
>
> John Sims, BN6
>
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>   
>
>   <http://www.healey6.com>  www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG -www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7935 - datum van uitgifte: 07/28/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 14:31:59 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 14:32:01 -0600
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 <53D6B097.4050903@chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era
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>> After the sale, I will continue to manage my web site at least until the
>> expiration of the current registration term which will be in June of 2016

There is certainly room on the Team.Net server for it, and I'd be willing to take
over the domain so that people's bookmarks won't break.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 15:10:03 2014
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era
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Just to be clear, I intend to keep managing the site, AND contributing to
it, for as long as my fingers can punch a keyboard. One of the problems that
I have is that the publisher of the program that I use stopped supporting it
almost ten years ago and I have not yet found one that is both as simple and
as elegant as this one. For example, it is true wysiwyg without text boxes
as almost all newer programs force you to use -- most do not even allow you
to change the font or size within the text box. And, I can place photos
wherever I want -- not guided by what the publisher thinks I want. (perhaps
in the boucoup dinero programs that I can't afford) That being said, since
males on my father's side of the family live into their 90's, I may be
around for a long time but without ownership of a Healey. When push comes to
shove, I will allow mark to take the domain over but that will be several
years from now. I have a backlog of about 120 items that I intend to clear
up over the next month or so and after that, it seems as if the well is
running dry as many topics are in the "same old thing" category. I would
however eliminate the page on Cal Berkeley Rugby as I doubt if there are
many in the Healey community who are interested in it (Alan and Skip
excepted)

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J
Bradakis
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 4:32 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era

>> After the sale, I will continue to manage my web site at least until 
>> the expiration of the current registration term which will be in June 
>> of 2016

There is certainly room on the Team.Net server for it, and I'd be willing to
take over the domain so that people's bookmarks won't break.

mjb.
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 15:19:23 2014
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 17:19:06 -0400
To: Healey Bruce <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
Cc: Gary Anderson <editorgary@aol.com>, Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Welch's death
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Without knowing any details of the accident if you consider that open-wheel
formula cars, or for that matter most sports racers such as the Elva MK IV
that I race, have little or no protection for side intrusion.  At last
weekend's PVGP races at Schenley Park a Lotus 23B in my race group--really
not very different than the Lotus 18 that DW was driving--hit a pole
amidships on the right (driver's) side and was all but torn in half with
the driver going to the hospital with serious injuries.

It does no good to indict vintage racing in general or UK racers in
particular--all of the HANS devices, roll bars and harnesses in the world
will do no good if the driver's compartment is penetrated.  Racing remains
a dangerous sport.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 2:45 PM, Healey Bruce <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
wrote:

> How terribly tragic and sad.
>
> Bruce
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> editorgary@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 10:36 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Welch's death
>
>  The news of the death of Denis Welch is an unbelievable tragedy. The idea
> that someone would actually get killed in a vintage racing accident is so
> unlikely that we really have to ask what happened. I hope that vintage
> racing organizations all over the world are asking for details on Welch's
> death to learn whether it might have been prevented by better safety
> equipment (English drivers often choose not to equip vintage race cars with
> modern style roll bars, and even safety harnesses because they aren't
> "period"), less aggressive driving and more active stewardship (English
> racing has a deserved reputation for being more aggressive than what we
> tolerate in the U.S.), bad track design, or just the luck of the situation.
>
> To have a driver of this level of
> experience die in a frequently raced style of race car is just
> unacceptable.
> G.
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
> Mercedes-Benz Club of
> America
> Editor at Large, Austin-Healey Magazine
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce@roadrunner.com
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 15:30:53 2014
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 Jul 2014 17:29:37 -0400
From: "SKIP SAUNDERS" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "'John Sims'" <ahbn6@verizon.net>, "'Mark J Bradakis'"
 <mark@bradakis.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <002101cfaa5c$60389db0$20a9d910$@verizon.net>
 <53D6B097.4050903@chello.nl> <53D6B341.5050807@bradakis.com>
 <00ac01cfaaa8$3c6a2290$b53e67b0$@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 17:29:31 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Go Bears!!!!   ... :-)
Thanks John ...


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Sims
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 5:10 PM
To: 'Mark J Bradakis'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era

Just to be clear, I intend to keep managing the site, AND contributing to
it, for as long as my fingers can punch a keyboard. One of the problems that
I have is that the publisher of the program that I use stopped supporting it
almost ten years ago and I have not yet found one that is both as simple and
as elegant as this one. For example, it is true wysiwyg without text boxes
as almost all newer programs force you to use -- most do not even allow you
to change the font or size within the text box. And, I can place photos
wherever I want -- not guided by what the publisher thinks I want. (perhaps
in the boucoup dinero programs that I can't afford) That being said, since
males on my father's side of the family live into their 90's, I may be
around for a long time but without ownership of a Healey. When push comes to
shove, I will allow mark to take the domain over but that will be several
years from now. I have a backlog of about 120 items that I intend to clear
up over the next month or so and after that, it seems as if the well is
running dry as many topics are in the "same old thing" category. I would
however eliminate the page on Cal Berkeley Rugby as I doubt if there are
many in the Healey community who are interested in it (Alan and Skip
excepted)

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J
Bradakis
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 4:32 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era

>> After the sale, I will continue to manage my web site at least until 
>> the expiration of the current registration term which will be in June 
>> of 2016

There is certainly room on the Team.Net server for it, and I'd be willing to
take over the domain so that people's bookmarks won't break.

mjb.
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7@mindspring.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 16:09:30 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 18:09:30 -0400
From: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
To: healeylist <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The other day I was driving my '65 BJ8 on the highway and it happily
performed by any measure.  When I pulled off the highway and made my way to
a traffic light I had to sit through 2 cycles when it suddenly started to
run rough and stalled.  I was able to restart but it continued running
rough and then settled in.  The gas gauge red more than 1/4.  I don't have
a fuel filter and wonder if there might be something in the bottom of my
tank.

So:  Is a filter recommended, if so which one and how does one clean out a
tank?

Thanks for your help.

Ric
65 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 16:12:30 2014
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; auth=pass (LOGIN) smtp.auth=jpaynepbr@cox.net
From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'R Phillips'" <healeydriver1@gmail.com>, "'healeylist'"
 <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <Xy9d1o00r0NyJgq01y9eEw>
Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 15:12:31 -0700
Thread-Index: AQMJtJldgKWh9Cesne0D6D3zuufj95lB+Cng
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sounds like your fuel was boiling out of the float chambers.  How hot was it
outside?

Happens in my Jag XK  all the time at temps above 90 here.

I'd pick up a cheap transparent fuel filter and install it under the hood
where it is visible to rule out rust or sediment before I went through the
rest of the hassle.


Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R
Phillips
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 3:10 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank

The other day I was driving my '65 BJ8 on the highway and it happily
performed by any measure.  When I pulled off the highway and made my way to
a traffic light I had to sit through 2 cycles when it suddenly started to
run rough and stalled.  I was able to restart but it continued running rough
and then settled in.  The gas gauge red more than 1/4.  I don't have a fuel
filter and wonder if there might be something in the bottom of my tank.

So:  Is a filter recommended, if so which one and how does one clean out a
tank?

Thanks for your help.

Ric
65 BJ8
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpaynepbr@cox.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 16:18:29 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 18:18:22 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: [Healeys] Welch's death
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 I don't mean to seem to be jumping to conclusions. The main points I wanted
to make are first, that death is no longer acceptable in racing, no matter
what it says on the back of the ticket, on the program, or on the entry form.
I can't remember the last death that occurred as a result of vintage racing in
the U.S.  (Yes, there have been several heart attacks in the midst of racing,
and at least one testing accident death, but not due to racing circumstances,
as this one apparently was). Second, much of the reason for the good record is
that vintage racing organizations in the U.S. umbrella organization make a
point of investigating and reporting on every injury accident occurring during
a vintage race, and have adopted rules that require the best available driver
and car safety equipment, while keeping cars' performance reasonably close to
their historic capabilities.Third, with the singular exception of the PVGP,
where the organizers stress the circumstances of racing on what may be the
most dangerous road course in the country, the race tracks today are as safe
as design and equipment can make them, and b only fourth and though it's
only my perception b the vintage racing I've observed in England and Europe
is carried out under very different rules, attitudes, and circumstances than
is true in the United States

My point exactly was to inquire as to the
circumstances of this accident, and to express my hope that U.S. organizations
are looking at it, to determine whether an accident of this nature could have
occurred in the U.S. under our rules, attitudes, and conditions, and if so, is
there anything more that needs to be done to prevent such an occurrence.

Gary
Gary Anderson
Editor-in-Chief, The Star Magazine
Mercedes-Benz Club of America
Editor at Large, 
Austin-Healey Magazine
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 16:26:50 2014
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References: <CAHx2=qBCvNba2pc=Ygc6q+NQ+R+sPUYJnEenBAVTEPPGuUGTFA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 06:26:52 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
Cc: healeylist <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If it was hot, you might have had some vaporization in the float chambers
which can cause your car to stall.....



On Tuesday, July 29, 2014, R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com> wrote:

> The other day I was driving my '65 BJ8 on the highway and it happily
> performed by any measure.  When I pulled off the highway and made my way to
> a traffic light I had to sit through 2 cycles when it suddenly started to
> run rough and stalled.  I was able to restart but it continued running
> rough and then settled in.  The gas gauge red more than 1/4.  I don't have
> a fuel filter and wonder if there might be something in the bottom of my
> tank.
>
> So:  Is a filter recommended, if so which one and how does one clean out a
> tank?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Ric
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 16:27:28 2014
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

FWIW, I took a trip up the CA north coast last weekend, and had similar issues. I think gasahol causes a minor vapor lock when you sit and/or when the engine loads up; esp. if it's warm/hot. 

Bob 


----- Original Message -----

From: "R Phillips" <healeydriver1@gmail.com> 
To: "healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2014 3:09:30 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank 

The other day I was driving my '65 BJ8 on the highway and it happily 
performed by any measure. When I pulled off the highway and made my way to 
a traffic light I had to sit through 2 cycles when it suddenly started to 
run rough and stalled. I was able to restart but it continued running 
rough and then settled in. The gas gauge red more than 1/4. I don't have 
a fuel filter and wonder if there might be something in the bottom of my 
tank. 

So: Is a filter recommended, if so which one and how does one clean out a 
tank? 

Thanks for your help. 

Ric 
65 BJ8 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 16:31:49 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 22:29:11 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank
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Anyone got ceramic-coated exhaust manifold? Does it help with this problem? 

Bob 


----- Original Message -----



FWIW, I took a trip up the CA north coast last weekend, and had similar issues. I think gasahol causes a minor vapor lock when you sit and/or when the engine loads up; esp. if it's warm/hot. 

Bob 


----- Original Message ----- 



The other day I was driving my '65 BJ8 on the highway and it happily 
performed by any measure. When I pulled off the highway and made my way to 
a traffic light I had to sit through 2 cycles when it suddenly started to 
run rough and stalled. I was able to restart but it continued running 
rough and then settled in. The gas gauge red more than 1/4. I don't have 
a fuel filter and wonder if there might be something in the bottom of my 
tank. 

So: Is a filter recommended, if so which one and how does one clean out a 
tank? 

Thanks for your help. 

Ric 
65 BJ8 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 16:35:54 2014
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 06:36:00 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, I had some problems with this on my A90 a while back.  I Jet Hot
coated the manifold and it stopped it wholesale.  In fact, it helps push so
much heat out the exhaust that even the engine runs cooler.  Even on hot
days I can have my head in the engine compartment no problem!  I got the
coating with best heat insulation, I think it's called "extreme sterling."
 The only thing is if you have a mild steel exhaust, it probably will rust
faster....



On Tuesday, July 29, 2014, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Anyone got ceramic-coated exhaust manifold? Does it help with this problem?
>
> Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
> FWIW, I took a trip up the CA north coast last weekend, and had similar
> issues. I think gasahol causes a minor vapor lock when you sit and/or when
> the engine loads up; esp. if it's warm/hot.
>
> Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
> The other day I was driving my '65 BJ8 on the highway and it happily
> performed by any measure. When I pulled off the highway and made my way to
> a traffic light I had to sit through 2 cycles when it suddenly started to
> run rough and stalled. I was able to restart but it continued running
> rough and then settled in. The gas gauge red more than 1/4. I don't have
> a fuel filter and wonder if there might be something in the bottom of my
> tank.
>
> So: Is a filter recommended, if so which one and how does one clean out a
> tank?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Ric
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 16:38:36 2014
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 06:38:41 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John -

Say it ain't so!  How am I ever going to prove that not all Berkely grads
are freaks of nature without you?!?!

So sorry to hear about your joint problems, you think all these doctors
would've fixed this arthritis thing by now!

Glad you'll still be here for us for some time....

Alan

On Monday, July 28, 2014, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> The time has come. I have decided to put my BN6 on the market. Over the
> past
> year I have driven it only a few times due to adverse weather conditions
> and
> other interests. And, I am getting a little too old (74) to keep crawling
> under it for repairs the latest of which was to replace the cables from the
> battery to the starter solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. With
> my arthritis, just lifting the car onto jack stands takes too much effort.
> Anyway, over the next few weeks I will be placing it for sale, first in
> club
> magazines and then on eBay. At the same time, I have an extensive library
> of
> books - Pikovnik Guide to Historic Colors book, Moment Anderson autographed
> book, etc. as well as many tools such as Whitworth spanners and sockets,
> Pozidriv screwdrivers, various specialized nut removal tools (steering
> wheel
> nut, hub nut, etc.) that I will no longer need. These will be listed on my
> web site and then on eBay.
>
>
>
> After the sale, I will continue to manage my web site at least until the
> expiration of the current registration term which will be in June of 2016,
> will monitor the Healey List and will contribute to the Healey Marque
> Magazine. After that time, who knows. If anyone wants to volunteer to run
> the web site and/or contribute articles, let me know.
>
>
>
> I have been a Healey fanatic since 1958 and heavily involved since 1995 and
> have enjoyed every minute of my participation.
>
>
>
> John Sims, BN6
>
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>
>
>  <http://www.healey6.com> www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net <javascript:;>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 20:11:10 2014
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i used just over a quart on my round trip to bend from las vegas.  just over 2000 miles.   have about 50,000 miles on engine now, but have done everything i can think of to stop oil leaks.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 20:24:24 2014
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i am sure i am like most people who no longer even notice a third brake light.  every car has them so it is not unique.  however, i sure do notice a flashing light on a car, especially police.  how long people would notice and react to them is anybody's guess.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 20:49:57 2014
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To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net,  "healeys@autox.team.net"
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil consumption
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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That's about what I get on long trips. No rear seal, but PCV valve installed.

Bob


On 7/28/2014 7:10 PM, healeymanjim@hansencc.net wrote:
> i used just over a quart on my round trip to bend from las vegas.  just over 2000 miles.   have about 50,000 miles on engine now, but have done everything i can think of to stop oil leaks.
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Jul 28 21:49:57 2014
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Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 23:46:05 -0400
From: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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John,
Say it's not so!
Elton
On 7/28/2014 8:06 AM, John Sims wrote:
> The time has come. I have decided to put my BN6 on the market. Over the past
> year I have driven it only a few times due to adverse weather conditions and
> other interests. And, I am getting a little too old (74) to keep crawling
> under it for repairs the latest of which was to replace the cables from the
> battery to the starter solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. With
> my arthritis, just lifting the car onto jack stands takes too much effort.
> Anyway, over the next few weeks I will be placing it for sale, first in club
> magazines and then on eBay. At the same time, I have an extensive library of
> books - Pikovnik Guide to Historic Colors book, Moment Anderson autographed
> book, etc. as well as many tools such as Whitworth spanners and sockets,
> Pozidriv screwdrivers, various specialized nut removal tools (steering wheel
> nut, hub nut, etc.) that I will no longer need. These will be listed on my
> web site and then on eBay.
>
>   
>
> After the sale, I will continue to manage my web site at least until the
> expiration of the current registration term which will be in June of 2016,
> will monitor the Healey List and will contribute to the Healey Marque
> Magazine. After that time, who knows. If anyone wants to volunteer to run
> the web site and/or contribute articles, let me know.
>
>   
>
> I have been a Healey fanatic since 1958 and heavily involved since 1995 and
> have enjoyed every minute of my participation.
>
>   
>
> John Sims, BN6
>
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>   
>
>   <http://www.healey6.com> www.healey6.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 01:22:03 2014
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 09:18:48 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAHx2=qBCvNba2pc=Ygc6q+NQ+R+sPUYJnEenBAVTEPPGuUGTFA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A fuel filter should be fitted at all times, The usual place for it is 
just after the petrol pump in cars that have a Lucas electrical fuel 
pump. Other prefer the filter as near the fuel tank as possible, i.e. 
between tank and fuel pump. Car with mechanical pumps often have the 
fuel filter under the bonnet just before the fuel pump. This is not the 
best place because of under bonnet heat.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL




R Phillips schreef op 29-7-2014 0:09:
> The other day I was driving my '65 BJ8 on the highway and it happily
> performed by any measure.  When I pulled off the highway and made my way to
> a traffic light I had to sit through 2 cycles when it suddenly started to
> run rough and stalled.  I was able to restart but it continued running
> rough and then settled in.  The gas gauge red more than 1/4.  I don't have
> a fuel filter and wonder if there might be something in the bottom of my
> tank.
>
> So:  Is a filter recommended, if so which one and how does one clean out a
> tank?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Ric
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7937 - datum van uitgifte: 07/28/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 01:33:13 2014
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 09:33:09 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20140729021058.12767.qmail@server278.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil consumption
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Burning a quart of oil every 2000 miles or so sounds perfectly 
acceptable for an old British car. Even a quart for every 500 miles 
would be OK-ish. This is without any leaks!!!
In modern cars this would of course be totally unacceptable. Most do not 
noticeably use any oil at all.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

healeymanjim@hansencc.net schreef op 29-7-2014 4:10:
> i used just over a quart on my round trip to bend from las vegas.  just over 2000 miles.   have about 50,000 miles on engine now, but have done everything i can think of to stop oil leaks.
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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> -----
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> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7937 - datum van uitgifte: 07/28/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 04:39:01 2014
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 06:37:20 -0400
To: R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com>
Cc: healeylist <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ric--

Though your problem may relate to something other than debris in the fuel,
etc. a fuel filter never hurts. Some choose to install one close to the
carbs in the engine compartment.  I prefer to place it between the tank and
the fuel pump so that it protects the latter as the screens in the pump are
quite small and easily clogged.  If you opt for this location and cut the
metal fuel line remember that it--the line--provides a ground for the fuel
sender so install a new wire from the sender to recreate this path.

As to how to clean the tank:  You can gain access to its innards by
removing the sender unit and snooping around inside the tank but if you
really want to clean it out the best way would be to remove it from the car
and proceed from there.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 6:09 PM, R Phillips <healeydriver1@gmail.com> wrote:

> The other day I was driving my '65 BJ8 on the highway and it happily
> performed by any measure.  When I pulled off the highway and made my way to
> a traffic light I had to sit through 2 cycles when it suddenly started to
> run rough and stalled.  I was able to restart but it continued running
> rough and then settled in.  The gas gauge red more than 1/4.  I don't have
> a fuel filter and wonder if there might be something in the bottom of my
> tank.
>
> So:  Is a filter recommended, if so which one and how does one clean out a
> tank?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Ric
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 09:17:48 2014
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From: "Niels Bengaard" <bengaard@850r.dk>
To: "'Oudesluys'" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20140729021058.12767.qmail@server278.com>
 <53D74E35.3020905@chello.nl>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 17:17:17 +0200
Thread-Index: Ac+q/2evymXBEDcRTiqmSs558nYwPQAQGAQA
Content-Language: da
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil consumption
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you for all the answers.
I will have a look at where all the oil spillage comes from to begin with,
and perhaps this winter have the rocker assembly restored. It seems like a
lot of oil it spreads, I heard it should only drip, but on mine it4s running
all over as you can see in the videos. Also I notice quite a lot of oil in
the rear carb air filter. So the large oil consumption is probably a
combination of several problems.

Niels


-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Pe vegne af Oudesluys
Sendt: 29. juli 2014 09:33
Til: healeys@autox.team.net
Emne: Re: [Healeys] oil consumption

Burning a quart of oil every 2000 miles or so sounds perfectly acceptable
for an old British car. Even a quart for every 500 miles would be OK-ish.
This is without any leaks!!!
In modern cars this would of course be totally unacceptable. Most do not
noticeably use any oil at all.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

healeymanjim@hansencc.net schreef op 29-7-2014 4:10:
> i used just over a quart on my round trip to bend from las vegas.  just
over 2000 miles.   have about 50,000 miles on engine now, but have done
everything i can think of to stop oil leaks.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7937 - datum van uitgifte:
> 07/28/14
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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Niels Bengaard" <bengaard@850r.dk>, "'Oudesluys'"
 <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20140729021058.12767.qmail@server278.com>
 <53D74E35.3020905@chello.nl> <001901cfab40$30265970$90730c50$@dk>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 08:26:41 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil consumption
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes if there is a lot of oil in the rear air filter and excessive oil coming 
out the top of the rockers that will cause the engine to burn a lot of oil. 
Install a rebuilt rocker assy and that should solve your problem.

We have rebuilt units in stock on an exchange basis.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

-----Original Message----- 
From: Niels Bengaard
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2014 8:17 AM
To: 'Oudesluys' ; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil consumption

Thank you for all the answers.
I will have a look at where all the oil spillage comes from to begin with,
and perhaps this winter have the rocker assembly restored. It seems like a
lot of oil it spreads, I heard it should only drip, but on mine it4s running
all over as you can see in the videos. Also I notice quite a lot of oil in
the rear carb air filter. So the large oil consumption is probably a
combination of several problems.

Niels


-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Pe vegne af Oudesluys
Sendt: 29. juli 2014 09:33
Til: healeys@autox.team.net
Emne: Re: [Healeys] oil consumption

Burning a quart of oil every 2000 miles or so sounds perfectly acceptable
for an old British car. Even a quart for every 500 miles would be OK-ish.
This is without any leaks!!!
In modern cars this would of course be totally unacceptable. Most do not
noticeably use any oil at all.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

healeymanjim@hansencc.net schreef op 29-7-2014 4:10:
> i used just over a quart on my round trip to bend from las vegas.  just
over 2000 miles.   have about 50,000 miles on engine now, but have done
everything i can think of to stop oil leaks.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 10:57:50 2014
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 09:54:08 -0700
 FILETIME=[B73A8190:01CFAB4D]
Subject: [Healeys] fuel filter
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I moved the plastic fuel filter from under the bonnet to just after the fuel
pump. I got a nice metal one from British Car Specialist. Interestingly
enough, I have not had any vapor lock since??? I marked the date of
installation on the filter for future changes. (I do this on my oil filter
also.)
Thanks Dave.
Rich Kahn
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 13:11:42 -0400
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Rubber motor mounts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to replace the rubber motor
mounts with the engine still in my BJ7?  Mine are deteriorating.

Can it be done?

Fred
63 BJ 7
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From: sentenac.rw@gmail.com
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 10:19:32 -0700
References: <CAHx2=qBCvNba2pc=Ygc6q+NQ+R+sPUYJnEenBAVTEPPGuUGTFA@mail.gmail.com>
 <53D74AD8.30308@chello.nl>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I can recall stopping to help another Healey pilot about 50 miles
south of Carson City one summer on a lonely highway.  His fuel filter
had clogged with debris and access to it was very challenging.

Morals of story:  replace the filter before beginning any long trip,
and put the filter where you can reach it without jack stands or
special tools that you don't carry with you.  And carry a spare
filter.

-Roland
BN1 #724

On Tue, 29 Jul 2014 09:18:48 +0200, you wrote:

>A fuel filter should be fitted at all times, The usual place for it is
>just after the petrol pump in cars that have a Lucas electrical fuel
>pump. Other prefer the filter as near the fuel tank as possible, i.e.
>between tank and fuel pump. Car with mechanical pumps often have the
>fuel filter under the bonnet just before the fuel pump. This is not the
>best place because of under bonnet heat.
>
>Kees Oudesluijs
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 12:30:28 2014
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To: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] Rubber motor mounts
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Fred,
Just put a scissors jack with a wooden panel on top under the engine and lift it slightly. Then remove the bolts of the motor mounts and take them off. Replace the rubber parts and refit the motor mounts again.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany


Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to replace the rubber motor
mounts with the engine still in my BJ7?  Mine are deteriorating.

Can it be done?

Fred
63 BJ 7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Jul 29 12:42:59 2014
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 19:43:03 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 26C Engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anybody have the definitive explanation of why some 100-Sixes had
engines designated as 26C?

It seems that this occurred in 1957 and included cars with C/E numbers in
the 40,000 range. Most if not all appear to have been CKD kits exported to
South Africa, but I am aware of a left hand drive car with such an engine.

On a related point, were the engines that were shipped to Longbridge and
Abingdon already attached to the gearboxes in Coventry?

cheers

Derek
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 11:58:52 -0700
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To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Possible contaminates in gas tank
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Don't put the filter before the pump. This will increase the possibility of
vapor lock.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 29, 2014, at 0:18, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
> A fuel filter should be fitted at all times, The usual place for it is just
after the petrol pump in cars that have a Lucas electrical fuel pump. Other
prefer the filter as near the fuel tank as possible, i.e. between tank and
fuel pump. Car with mechanical pumps often have the fuel filter under the
bonnet just before the fuel pump. This is not the best place because of under
bonnet heat.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
>
>
>
> R Phillips schreef op 29-7-2014 0:09:
>> The other day I was driving my '65 BJ8 on the highway and it happily
>> performed by any measure.  When I pulled off the highway and made my way
to
>> a traffic light I had to sit through 2 cycles when it suddenly started to
>> run rough and stalled.  I was able to restart but it continued running
>> rough and then settled in.  The gas gauge red more than 1/4.  I don't have
>> a fuel filter and wonder if there might be something in the bottom of my
>> tank.
>>
>> So:  Is a filter recommended, if so which one and how does one clean out a
>> tank?
>>
>> Thanks for your help.
>>
>> Ric
>> 65 BJ8
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7937 - datum van uitgifte:
07/28/14
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 15:04:00 -0500
From: Patton Dickson <57healey@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an era
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John,

Life has gotten way ahead of the Healey for me over the past couple of
years.  For and for the most part Healey list emails go unread into
this account, waiting until the day I pull the car cover off and
finish the last 15% or so to get my BN4 on the road.  Today, I decided
to read a couple of Healey emails for no particular reason and saw
your "End of an Era" email.

I want to let you know over the years how much your contributions to
the community has meant to many of us.  The collecting and archiving
the combined information coming out of this list has been so very
valuable.   So I just wanted to say thanks!

Hopefully a way to carry on your Helaey work does continue.   If all
else fails, I can take it over to my site as I have free hosting, but
your successor should be someone who continues on with the site as you
built it and continues to grow it.

All the best
Patton Dickson
1957 BN4
Plano, TX

On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 9:40 AM,  <healeys-request@autox.team.net> wrote:
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2014 08:06:33 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] End of an era
> The time has come. I have decided to put my BN6 on the market. Over the past
> year I have driven it only a few times due to adverse weather conditions and
> other interests. And, I am getting a little too old (74) to keep crawling
> under it for repairs the latest of which was to replace the cables from the
> battery to the starter solenoid and from the solenoid to the starter. With
> my arthritis, just lifting the car onto jack stands takes too much effort.
> Anyway, over the next few weeks I will be placing it for sale, first in club
> magazines and then on eBay. At the same time, I have an extensive library of
> books - Pikovnik Guide to Historic Colors book, Moment Anderson autographed
> book, etc. as well as many tools such as Whitworth spanners and sockets,
> Pozidriv screwdrivers, various specialized nut removal tools (steering wheel
> nut, hub nut, etc.) that I will no longer need. These will be listed on my
> web site and then on eBay.
>
> After the sale, I will continue to manage my web site at least until the
> expiration of the current registration term which will be in June of 2016,
> will monitor the Healey List and will contribute to the Healey Marque
> Magazine. After that time, who knows. If anyone wants to volunteer to run
> the web site and/or contribute articles, let me know.
>
> I have been a Healey fanatic since 1958 and heavily involved since 1995 and
> have enjoyed every minute of my participation.
>
> John Sims, BN6
>
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
>  <http://www.healey6.com> www.healey6.com
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 16:43:42 -0400
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 26C Engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Derek,

Don't know about the "C" designation.  Maybe a low-compression A-95
Westminster engine for different fuels in South African CKD cars ?

Here's a publicity shot taken at the new Longbridge plant in the early
fifties.  It shows rows and rows of engines hanging from conveyors.  Most are
without, but some have gearboxes fitted.  Note engine colours:  most are dark
(Morris Green ?) but some are a light colour. Mix of two and four-blade fans,
some are a light colour (not red, which shows up dark), and there are
"propeller" style cast fans also. Gearboxes are unpainted.

Peter

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Longbridge engine line0190 (Medium).jpg]
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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 -0400
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 17:48:09 -0400
From: ggilliam@usol.com
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAAh8etm6pFBfO5A0oSr21PvwyjVsrLh6GcqiRX9d=dr+FjE_mA@mail.gmail.com>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/0.8.1
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C Engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Derek,
  My '57 Longbridge BN4 has a 26C engine, VIN tag and engine / 47704 , 
left hand steer, exported to USA.
  Were all the gallery head engines 26C?  Isn't that just a engine 
displacement code?

  Regards,
  Gordy

On 07/29/2014 14:43, Derek Job wrote:
> Does anybody have the definitive explanation of why some 100-Sixes 
> had
> engines designated as 26C?
>
> It seems that this occurred in 1957 and included cars with C/E 
> numbers in
> the 40,000 range. Most if not all appear to have been CKD kits 
> exported to
> South Africa, but I am aware of a left hand drive car with such an 
> engine.
>
> On a related point, were the engines that were shipped to Longbridge 
> and
> Abingdon already attached to the gearboxes in Coventry?
>
> cheers
>
> Derek
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAAh8etm6pFBfO5A0oSr21PvwyjVsrLh6GcqiRX9d=dr+FjE_mA@mail.gmail.com>
 <0eb03c60f3a58c394bef5238cee3cd15@usol.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 15:05:00 -0700
Thread-Index: AQHN8tbwTucIGkFy/fvuc+82dhkhSgI2NByMm6laaqA=
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C Engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe the 26C engine is 2639 cc and the 29D engine is 2912cc.

John Spaur
'62 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
ggilliam@usol.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2014 2:48 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C Engines

Derek,
  My '57 Longbridge BN4 has a 26C engine, VIN tag and engine / 47704 , left
hand steer, exported to USA.
  Were all the gallery head engines 26C?  Isn't that just a engine
displacement code?

  Regards,
  Gordy

On 07/29/2014 14:43, Derek Job wrote:
> Does anybody have the definitive explanation of why some 100-Sixes had 
> engines designated as 26C?
>
> It seems that this occurred in 1957 and included cars with C/E numbers 
> in the 40,000 range. Most if not all appear to have been CKD kits 
> exported to South Africa, but I am aware of a left hand drive car with 
> such an engine.
>
> On a related point, were the engines that were shipped to Longbridge 
> and Abingdon already attached to the gearboxes in Coventry?
>
> cheers
>
> Derek
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2014 18:31:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 26C Engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, I believe they are gallery head 100-Sixes, but I'm more familiar with a
1C prefix.  No. 40,000 was around the spring of '57 and the 26D 100-Six engine
with separate intake manifold came in towards the end of that year.

Peter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 00:44:03 2014
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References: <CAAh8etm6pFBfO5A0oSr21PvwyjVsrLh6GcqiRX9d=dr+FjE_mA@mail.gmail.com>
 <0eb03c60f3a58c394bef5238cee3cd15@usol.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 07:43:52 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: ggilliam@usol.com
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C Engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gordy,

Yes it is the displacement code, but most 100-Sixes had a 26D engine not
26C.

Derek


On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 10:48 PM, <ggilliam@usol.com> wrote:

> Derek,
>  My '57 Longbridge BN4 has a 26C engine, VIN tag and engine / 47704 , left
> hand steer, exported to USA.
>  Were all the gallery head engines 26C?  Isn't that just a engine
> displacement code?
>
>  Regards,
>  Gordy
>
>
> On 07/29/2014 14:43, Derek Job wrote:
>
>> Does anybody have the definitive explanation of why some 100-Sixes had
>> engines designated as 26C?
>>
>> It seems that this occurred in 1957 and included cars with C/E numbers in
>> the 40,000 range. Most if not all appear to have been CKD kits exported to
>> South Africa, but I am aware of a left hand drive car with such an engine.
>>
>> On a related point, were the engines that were shipped to Longbridge and
>> Abingdon already attached to the gearboxes in Coventry?
>>
>> cheers
>>
>> Derek
>>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 00:51:02 2014
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References: <73C15CC36107446FBE1B0C3976AED852@9535DEE118EC44B>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 07:51:06 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Peter Svilans <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C Engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Peter

Thanks, that is a very interesting photo. Particularly the light coloured
gearbox attached to the dark green engine. I have been asked whether any
100-Sixes with Morris Green engines could have had normal green gearboxes
attached to them. It seems from the photo that might have been possible

Derek


On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 9:43 PM, Peter Svilans <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
wrote:

>  Hi Derek,
>
> Don't know about the "C" designation.  Maybe a low-compression A-95
> Westminster engine for different fuels in South African CKD cars ?
>
> Here's a publicity shot taken at the new Longbridge plant in the early
> fifties.  It shows rows and rows of engines hanging from conveyors.  Most
> are without, but some have gearboxes fitted.  Note engine colours:  most
> are dark (Morris Green ?) but some are a light colour. Mix of two and
> four-blade fans, some are a light colour (not red, which shows up dark),
> and there are "propeller" style cast fans also. Gearboxes are unpainted.
>
> Peter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 06:38:17 2014
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References: <CAAh8etm6pFBfO5A0oSr21PvwyjVsrLh6GcqiRX9d=dr+FjE_mA@mail.gmail.com>
 <0eb03c60f3a58c394bef5238cee3cd15@usol.com>
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 13:38:08 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: ggilliam@usol.com
Cc: Forum <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C Engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gordy,

Your car is the earliest such number I have come across. I know of others
from 48739 up to 51674.

I suspect the 26C pre-fix replaced 1C sometime around car number 47000, but
they are the same engines.

Derek
On Wed, Jul 30, 2014 at 1:10 PM, <ggilliam@usol.com> wrote:

> Derek,
>   I think it is a revision level code, "C" was gallery head, "D" is the
> siamesed manifolds? I believe that change took place shortly after mine was
> produced?
>
>   Gordy
>
>
> On 07/30/2014 02:43, Derek Job wrote:
>
>> Gordy,
>>
>> Yes it is the displacement code, but most 100-Sixes had a 26D engine not
>> 26C.
>>
>> Derek
>>
>>  On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 10:48 PM, <ggilliam@usol.com> wrote:
>>
>>  Derek,
>>>  My '57 Longbridge BN4 has a 26C engine, VIN tag and engine / 47704 ,
>>> left hand steer, exported to USA.
>>>  Were all the gallery head engines 26C?  Isn't that just a engine
>>> displacement code?
>>>
>>>  Regards,
>>>  Gordy
>>>
>>> On 07/29/2014 14:43, Derek Job wrote:
>>>
>>>  Does anybody have the definitive explanation of why some 100-Sixes had
>>>> engines designated as 26C?
>>>>
>>>> It seems that this occurred in 1957 and included cars with C/E numbers
>>>> in
>>>> the 40,000 range. Most if not all appear to have been CKD kits exported
>>>> to
>>>> South Africa, but I am aware of a left hand drive car with such an
>>>> engine.
>>>>
>>>> On a related point, were the engines that were shipped to Longbridge and
>>>> Abingdon already attached to the gearboxes in Coventry?
>>>>
>>>> cheers
>>>>
>>>> Derek
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 13:25:59 -0400
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 26C engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Andy

Thanks for that valuable insight into the early sixes.  The pictures are
fantastic !  Some apprentice must've been told to run around and make sure all
the fans are horizontal for the picture.  The one shot of a single motor
before receiving its paint is particularly interesting.  It shows how much of
it was assembled prior to painting.  Looks as if the carbs just had a rag
thrown over them, fanbeltand hoses just painted over.  Tappet chest covers
look pre-painted engine colour.

My b&w picture was taken not long after the completion of the new Car Assembly
Building 1 (1951) at Longbridge, and is part of an album of 8 x 10 glossies
taken for publicity purposes.  As such, it shows only four cylinder motors,
but gives an idea of how the engines looked and how they were handled. More
pics:
http://www.austinmemories.com/page62/page62.html

Again, thanks for your valuable input.

Peter

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Longbridge engine line0190.jpg]
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 pV5qwHJGFls08IgR2ZBjGaUingAum6H8IqTnz
From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 13:26:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 26C engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The BMC "C" series six-cylinder was already two years old by the time it was
fitted into the Healey. (BMC car names, like A-90, reflected supposed top
speeds back then).

It was introduced in October 1954 in the Austin A-90 (BS4) and Wolseley 6-90.
The Austin version had 7.3 to 1 compression, a Zenith carb and 85 hp.  The
Wolseley version had twin S.U's with either 7.2 comp. for 90 hp or 8.3 comp.
for 95 hp.  Both had gallery heads and downdraft (vertical) carbs.

In July 1955 the engine was fitted in the Morris Isis, with one semi-downdraft
S.U. for 86 hp.

In May 1956, Harry Weslake built a race version of the engine with three
Webers, and shortly after,  it was developed for production as the Austin
A-105 (BS7) with 8.25 comp. and twin sidedraft S.U's for 102 hp (essentially
the first gallery head Healey 100-Six (Longbridge BN4) engine, and maybe the
start of the 26A,B,C designations).

In Oct. 1956 the Austin range was updated as the A-95 (BS6) with 8.5 comp.,
single downdraft Zenith and 92 hp.  Also that month the Morris Isis Series II
got the comp. increase and 90 hp. as did the Wolseley 6-90 Series II.  The
Wolseley's sister car, the Riley Two-Point-Six replaced the classic high-cam
Riley engine of the Pathfinder with the "C" series BMC Six at this time also.

So if Andy's late '57 A-105 is stamped 26A, maybe the "26A,B,C" began with the
first Weslake overhaul of the gallery head motors in '56. Just a thought.Is
there even a 26B ? More info needed from early six-cylinder owners, please.

Best,
Peter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 15:47:18 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Peter Svilans'" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8AF3AEE5FD6F46A5BB56BF90A2F53E92@9535DEE118EC44B>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 07:47:01 +1000
Thread-Index: AQGZBJ81LVo3Jjk75k2yEG9FIh7uP5wmcz4w
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

The first C-series engine was fitted to an Austin-Healey in late 1954 when
the DHMC was provided with a C26W engine (Wolseley) along with the advice
that the new six-cylinder engine was to be the generic BMC engine due to the
four-cylinder being phased out.

After installing the engine in a car Geoff Healey was very disappointed with
the performance provided by the engine and started working on extracting
additional power. Only when they sliced off the log part of the cylinder
head and install triple dual-throat SUs was he satisfied with the
performance. It would have looked impressive with six SU dash pots under the
bonnet.

That car with its C26W engine has sat in my garage since 1974, but not
unfortunately the SUs.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter
Svilans
Sent: Thursday, 31 July 2014 3:26 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 26C engines

The BMC "C" series six-cylinder was already two years old by the time it was
fitted into the Healey. (BMC car names, like A-90, reflected supposed top
speeds back then).

It was introduced in October 1954 in the Austin A-90 (BS4) and Wolseley
6-90.
The Austin version had 7.3 to 1 compression, a Zenith carb and 85 hp.  The
Wolseley version had twin S.U's with either 7.2 comp. for 90 hp or 8.3 comp.
for 95 hp.  Both had gallery heads and downdraft (vertical) carbs.

In July 1955 the engine was fitted in the Morris Isis, with one
semi-downdraft S.U. for 86 hp.

In May 1956, Harry Weslake built a race version of the engine with three
Webers, and shortly after,  it was developed for production as the Austin
A-105 (BS7) with 8.25 comp. and twin sidedraft S.U's for 102 hp (essentially
the first gallery head Healey 100-Six (Longbridge BN4) engine, and maybe the
start of the 26A,B,C designations).

In Oct. 1956 the Austin range was updated as the A-95 (BS6) with 8.5 comp.,
single downdraft Zenith and 92 hp.  Also that month the Morris Isis Series
II got the comp. increase and 90 hp. as did the Wolseley 6-90 Series II.
The Wolseley's sister car, the Riley Two-Point-Six replaced the classic
high-cam Riley engine of the Pathfinder with the "C" series BMC Six at this
time also.

So if Andy's late '57 A-105 is stamped 26A, maybe the "26A,B,C" began with
the first Weslake overhaul of the gallery head motors in '56. Just a
thought.Is there even a 26B ? More info needed from early six-cylinder
owners, please.

Best,
Peter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 16:27:43 2014
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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, "'Peter Svilans'"
 <peter.svilans@rogers.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8AF3AEE5FD6F46A5BB56BF90A2F53E92@9535DEE118EC44B>
 <004901cfac3f$ccddd180$66997480$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 15:24:34 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The dual throat SU carbs were used on several motors. I have customer with a 
MGA Twin cam that he vintage races. He has a pair of these on that car.

This is the only car I have seen with them on.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com


-----Original Message----- 
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 2:47 PM
To: 'Peter Svilans' ; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C engines

G'day

The first C-series engine was fitted to an Austin-Healey in late 1954 when
the DHMC was provided with a C26W engine (Wolseley) along with the advice
that the new six-cylinder engine was to be the generic BMC engine due to the
four-cylinder being phased out.

After installing the engine in a car Geoff Healey was very disappointed with
the performance provided by the engine and started working on extracting
additional power. Only when they sliced off the log part of the cylinder
head and install triple dual-throat SUs was he satisfied with the
performance. It would have looked impressive with six SU dash pots under the
bonnet.

That car with its C26W engine has sat in my garage since 1974, but not
unfortunately the SUs.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter
Svilans
Sent: Thursday, 31 July 2014 3:26 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 26C engines

The BMC "C" series six-cylinder was already two years old by the time it was
fitted into the Healey. (BMC car names, like A-90, reflected supposed top
speeds back then).

It was introduced in October 1954 in the Austin A-90 (BS4) and Wolseley
6-90.
The Austin version had 7.3 to 1 compression, a Zenith carb and 85 hp.  The
Wolseley version had twin S.U's with either 7.2 comp. for 90 hp or 8.3 comp.
for 95 hp.  Both had gallery heads and downdraft (vertical) carbs.

In July 1955 the engine was fitted in the Morris Isis, with one
semi-downdraft S.U. for 86 hp.

In May 1956, Harry Weslake built a race version of the engine with three
Webers, and shortly after,  it was developed for production as the Austin
A-105 (BS7) with 8.25 comp. and twin sidedraft S.U's for 102 hp (essentially
the first gallery head Healey 100-Six (Longbridge BN4) engine, and maybe the
start of the 26A,B,C designations).

In Oct. 1956 the Austin range was updated as the A-95 (BS6) with 8.5 comp.,
single downdraft Zenith and 92 hp.  Also that month the Morris Isis Series
II got the comp. increase and 90 hp. as did the Wolseley 6-90 Series II.
The Wolseley's sister car, the Riley Two-Point-Six replaced the classic
high-cam Riley engine of the Pathfinder with the "C" series BMC Six at this
time also.

So if Andy's late '57 A-105 is stamped 26A, maybe the "26A,B,C" began with
the first Weslake overhaul of the gallery head motors in '56. Just a
thought.Is there even a 26B ? More info needed from early six-cylinder
owners, please.

Best,
Peter
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 17:02:49 2014
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Received: from bradakis.com
 (50-198-190-18-static.hfc.comcastbusiness.net [50.198.190.18]) by
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 17:02:36 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 17:02:35 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101
 Firefox/29.0 SeaMonkey/2.26.1
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>,  Spridget list <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Searching the archives
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A couple of folks on the Triumph list were using the archive's search function, and found that
some of the links returned were incorrect, point to messages with entirely different content than
what they were expecting.

Has anyone on these lists experienced the same problem?  Wondering if it is a widespread issue
or just one corrupted database.

mjb.

ps: Stopped by the PO box today, found a contribution check from a Healey guy. That's always nice!
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 17:15:06 2014
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From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net>
To: <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 16:16:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] spacers behind the wheel hub?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone use spacers behind the wheel hub?  I have Vredesteins 185/70/15 on
72 spoke wheels and am seeing tire rub on the inner fender wall, also on the
bolt heads  that hold on the bump stop.  Looks like a 1/8 spacer might
eliminate the rub.
Jerry
BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 17:54:13 2014
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From: "teamhealeytexas" <fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com>
To: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net>,
  <healeys@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <C4C6C1C6CD3C4BFDA97D1B4AD2F6C4F5@JerryPC>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 18:53:56 -0500
 {sentby:smtp auth 71.41.225.122 authed with
 fredcrowley@teamhealeytexas.com}
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spacers behind the wheel hub?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've used aluminum spacers behind the hubs of my '62 3000 BT7 race car for 
20 years, for exactly the reason cited. I used to run 195x65 Yokohama 
A008RS. On hard cornering they would rub the inside wheel wheel. When 
Yokohama stopped making those tires, I switched to Hoosier Speedsters 
205x60. No trouble rubbing the wheel well with the spacers, and my rear 
tires don't extend beyond the edge of the fender. Obviously the outside tire 
wall is further out than a more stock sized tire, but even with the 
Speedsters, the sidewalls are flush with the fender edge using the 5/16 
spacers.

Y'all take care, eh?
Fred Crowley
Team Healey Texas

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jerry Costanzo
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 6:16 PM
To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] spacers behind the wheel hub?

Does anyone use spacers behind the wheel hub?  I have Vredesteins 185/70/15 
on
72 spoke wheels and am seeing tire rub on the inner fender wall, also on the
bolt heads  that hold on the bump stop.  Looks like a 1/8 spacer might
eliminate the rub.
Jerry
BJ8
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From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net>
References: <C4C6C1C6CD3C4BFDA97D1B4AD2F6C4F5@JerryPC>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 16:57:45 -0700
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spacers behind the wheel hub?
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Jerry:

I ran into a bit of the same problem BJ8 (late), 457F wheels, (other wheel 
#'s have different offsets), Vred 185 / 70 15's.  No sign of contact on the 
inner fender, but slight signs of grazing on the bump stop bolts, which were 
installed as per the book, with a flat washer and a lock washer.  Took both 
washers out - installed the bolts without anything - no contact.  I may 
switch to a pan head bolt, or even a countersunk bolt to give a bit more 
clearance.

We checked the rear axle housing play - if it's moving too much side to side 
in corners, you can get the same problem with a wide tire.  My car is a 
fresh restoration - new bushings, everything as tight as it should be 
(u-bolt nuts).  The axle housing was effectively not moving at all.  The car 
has the Putzke Bilstein shock kit installed, which should not affect side to 
side axle housing movement.  I have not sorted out the wheels / tires - I 
have a bit of lateral run out on both rear wheels.  The bump stop bolt 
'tracks' don't go all the way around the tire.  I'll be sorting that out in 
the near future.

You want to be cautious about wheel spacers with the wide tire - you don't 
want to get the wheels too far to the outside.  Reworking the bump stop 
bolts, and maybe 'massaging' the inner fenders just a bit might do the 
trick - depending on where and how much the contact is.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jerry Costanzo
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 4:16 PM
To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Healeys] spacers behind the wheel hub?

Does anyone use spacers behind the wheel hub?  I have Vredesteins 185/70/15 
on
72 spoke wheels and am seeing tire rub on the inner fender wall, also on the
bolt heads  that hold on the bump stop.  Looks like a 1/8 spacer might
eliminate the rub.
Jerry
BJ8
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 20:37:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dual-Throat S.U's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The S.U. dual throat carbs, called DU6, or AUC 844, were only ever 1 3/4", and
there is only one "official" listing for them in the S.U. Applications List
for 1965, which covers many hundreds of cars back to prewar. This is the
Coventry-Climax F1 car with the F.P.F engine in the 1,500cc size (1958-1961).
Of course the carbs would have had other special applications.

Scroll down four pics:
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/101968/101-on-su-carbs#.U9mKBaPG-So

....and here:
http://www.spridgetmania.com/msgThread/107976/1/1/SPLITTING_TWIN_SU

Peter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 19:06:09 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Peter Svilans'" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>,
  <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <AD4B9DB76F73492C9F5C42C3052C8203@9535DEE118EC44B>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 11:05:52 +1000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual-Throat S.U's
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

Some years back I interviewed a gentleman by the name of Bill Bressington
who was the proprietor of SU Midel here in Australia
(http://www.sumidel.com) During the course of the interview I asked him
about the DU6 that were once fitted to my car and he said that he could make
me a set at around $2,000 per carburettor. I just laughed as it was way past
my budget. Sadly Bill is no longer with us buy his sons Adam and Grant are
now at the helm of SU Midel.

I have seen DU6 carbs on Coventry Climax FPF engines right up to the 2.5
litre versions that were made here in Australia by Repco and used in the
early years of the Tasman Series ('64 -'69), prior to the 2.5 litre Repco
V8, Ford DFV, BRM engines coming on stream. However the prettiest
application I have seen was on a 1935 Riley Imp.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter
Svilans
Sent: Thursday, 31 July 2014 10:37 AM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Dual-Throat S.U's

The S.U. dual throat carbs, called DU6, or AUC 844, were only ever 1 3/4",
and there is only one "official" listing for them in the S.U. Applications
List for 1965, which covers many hundreds of cars back to prewar. This is
the Coventry-Climax F1 car with the F.P.F engine in the 1,500cc size
(1958-1961).
Of course the carbs would have had other special applications.

Scroll down four pics:
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/101968/101-on-su-carbs#.U9mKBaPG-So

....and here:
http://www.spridgetmania.com/msgThread/107976/1/1/SPLITTING_TWIN_SU

Peter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 20:30:05 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 02:26:22 +0000
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still trying to figure out why this bt7 has only about 30 or so pounds of oil pressure when it first starts and goes down from there.  the engine was rebuilt and has only about 1000 miles on it.  according to owner, it has always been that way.  most oil pressure ever seen was about 45 on cold mornings.  we have eliminated as problem area the filter, rocker arms system, the pressure relief valve, the indicating system, and oil pump.  i am beginning to suspect a major leak inside the engine, either from crankshaft (we are going to plastigage each journal) or possibly a hole in oil gallery somewhere.  any thing i might be missing?  TIA  hjim
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 19:26:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: Jerry Costanzo <grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
 TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spacers behind the wheel hub?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah, I have used them forever and put counter sunk screws into the bump stops.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 4:16:13 PM
Subject: [Healeys] spacers behind the wheel hub?

Does anyone use spacers behind the wheel hub?  I have Vredesteins 185/70/15 on
72 spoke wheels and am seeing tire rub on the inner fender wall, also on the
bolt heads  that hold on the bump stop.  Looks like a 1/8 spacer might
eliminate the rub.
Jerry
BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 20:49:35 2014
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Peter Svilans'" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <8AF3AEE5FD6F46A5BB56BF90A2F53E92@9535DEE118EC44B>
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 12:49:36 +1000
Thread-Index: AQGZBJ81LVo3Jjk75k2yEG9FIh7uPwJ0redunBMjpaA=
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C engines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

If you have a half hour to spare and are interested in how the C-series
engine was made these three Pathe News films are well worthwhile. In this
day and age it is now available on YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XsGtHJRrbk
http://www.britishpathe.com/video/magic-in-metal-reel-2
http://www.britishpathe.com/video/magic-in-metal-reel-3

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick &
Caroline Quinn
Sent: Thursday, 31 July 2014 7:47 AM
To: 'Peter Svilans'; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 26C engines

G'day

The first C-series engine was fitted to an Austin-Healey in late 1954 when
the DHMC was provided with a C26W engine (Wolseley) along with the advice
that the new six-cylinder engine was to be the generic BMC engine due to the
four-cylinder being phased out.

After installing the engine in a car Geoff Healey was very disappointed with
the performance provided by the engine and started working on extracting
additional power. Only when they sliced off the log part of the cylinder
head and install triple dual-throat SUs was he satisfied with the
performance. It would have looked impressive with six SU dash pots under the
bonnet.

That car with its C26W engine has sat in my garage since 1974, but not
unfortunately the SUs.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter
Svilans
Sent: Thursday, 31 July 2014 3:26 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 26C engines

The BMC "C" series six-cylinder was already two years old by the time it was
fitted into the Healey. (BMC car names, like A-90, reflected supposed top
speeds back then).

It was introduced in October 1954 in the Austin A-90 (BS4) and Wolseley
6-90.
The Austin version had 7.3 to 1 compression, a Zenith carb and 85 hp.  The
Wolseley version had twin S.U's with either 7.2 comp. for 90 hp or 8.3 comp.
for 95 hp.  Both had gallery heads and downdraft (vertical) carbs.

In July 1955 the engine was fitted in the Morris Isis, with one
semi-downdraft S.U. for 86 hp.

In May 1956, Harry Weslake built a race version of the engine with three
Webers, and shortly after,  it was developed for production as the Austin
A-105 (BS7) with 8.25 comp. and twin sidedraft S.U's for 102 hp (essentially
the first gallery head Healey 100-Six (Longbridge BN4) engine, and maybe the
start of the 26A,B,C designations).

In Oct. 1956 the Austin range was updated as the A-95 (BS6) with 8.5 comp.,
single downdraft Zenith and 92 hp.  Also that month the Morris Isis Series
II got the comp. increase and 90 hp. as did the Wolseley 6-90 Series II.
The Wolseley's sister car, the Riley Two-Point-Six replaced the classic
high-cam Riley engine of the Pathfinder with the "C" series BMC Six at this
time also.

So if Andy's late '57 A-105 is stamped 26A, maybe the "26A,B,C" began with
the first Weslake overhaul of the gallery head motors in '56. Just a
thought.Is there even a 26B ? More info needed from early six-cylinder
owners, please.

Best,
Peter
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 20:56:30 2014
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 19:56:25 -0700
References: <20140731022622.13898.qmail@server278.com>
To: "healeymanjim@hansencc.net" <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure (again)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

For low oil pressure look at the following
Oil pressure relief valve
It might not be sealing or the spring is weak. One hack we used to do was to
drop a short 1/4-20 bolt inside the oil pressure relief valve spring. This
would increase spring tension and boost oil pressure both cold and warm. The
last MG I did this to had in excess of 100 PSI cold after 100K miles.
Don't forget to inspect both the valve AND the mating surface on the block.
You need it to seal. Minor imperfections can be fixed with valve lapping
compound.
Have you inspected the pump and checked clearances?
Lastly plasticaguage the main bearings. Too much clearance = low oil pressure
Good luck
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 30, 2014, at 19:26, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:
>
> still trying to figure out why this bt7 has only about 30 or so pounds of
oil pressure when it first starts and goes down from there.  the engine was
rebuilt and has only about 1000 miles on it.  according to owner, it has
always been that way.  most oil pressure ever seen was about 45 on cold
mornings.  we have eliminated as problem area the filter, rocker arms system,
the pressure relief valve, the indicating system, and oil pump.  i am
beginning to suspect a major leak inside the engine, either from crankshaft
(we are going to plastigage each journal) or possibly a hole in oil gallery
somewhere.  any thing i might be missing?  TIA  hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 21:00:47 2014
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From: "Chris Scholz" <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>
thread-topic: 1959 100-6
thread-index: Ac+sawnh0ecas6/zQWiJLdjC/G86mg==
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 21:57:31 -0500
To: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Greetings,

It appears my current engine in my 100-6 needs an overhaul. I have the
original numbers matching engine in my shed with a broken rod. I plan on
having that original engine fully overhauled and the rear seal installed, and
will be selling the other as a core. The car is in good shape but the engine
bay is the wrong color, along with the frame, inside of trunk, etc.

My son and I would like to keep the car this winter in my heated shed and work
on it while my mechanic overhauls the engine. I would like to strip the engine
bay and repaint it the same color as the outside (old English white) and
remove the fenders and repaint the frame. The frame is in great shape along
with the suspension. This appears to have had a restoration somewhere in the
past.

My body man will be painting the rear fenders and putting everything back
together. My questions are:  how easy is it to remove the fenders and
windshield?  Which rust inhibitor do most professionals spray before painting?

Although this is new to my son and I, we would like to do as much work as
possible ourselves while the engine is being rebuilt.

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Jul 30 21:30:46 2014
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2014 20:30:24 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Chris Scholz <drscholz@visioncenterpc.com>,  Ahealey help
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <00E7D54E-3C59-4D79-80A5-1481B60B08E2@visioncenterpc.com>
 s=q20140121; t=1406777431;
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not a pro painter, but did a lot of research when restoring our BN2.  I don't believe painters use a rust inhibitor, 
per se.  Best technique is to strip down to bare metal, then immediately apply an epoxy primer (keep in mind any metal 
starts corroding as soon as it comes in contact with oxygen, facilitated by moisture, of which there is always some in 
the atmosphere).  Standard and 'high build' primers are remarkably porous, and unless you can strip to bare metal, apply 
primer, perform sanding, smoothing, etc. and finish paint in pretty much the same day or two you need to use an epoxy 
(two part) primer which effectively seals the surface.  There are various metal preps which will etch bare metal and 
leave a very thin phosphate coating--prior to primer--which is probably the best inhibitor you can get, but it may or 
may not be necessary depending on who you talk to (some prefer an etching primer).  Wear latex/vinyl/nitrile gloves to 
keep body oils off the bare metal.

If the 100-6 is similar to our 100--I know, the windshields are different but both have similar side posts--the front 
fenders have to come off to get to the posts (which you say you're doing). Removing the fenders isn't too 
difficult--lots and lots of bolts, and you'll have to remove headlight buckets and turn signals.

I encourage you to research paint and techniques--there is copious info on the interwebs.

Bob



On 7/30/2014 7:57 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> It appears my current engine in my 100-6 needs an overhaul. I have the
> original numbers matching engine in my shed with a broken rod. I plan on
> having that original engine fully overhauled and the rear seal installed, and
> will be selling the other as a core. The car is in good shape but the engine
> bay is the wrong color, along with the frame, inside of trunk, etc.
>
> My son and I would like to keep the car this winter in my heated shed and work
> on it while my mechanic overhauls the engine. I would like to strip the engine
> bay and repaint it the same color as the outside (old English white) and
> remove the fenders and repaint the frame. The frame is in great shape along
> with the suspension. This appears to have had a restoration somewhere in the
> past.
>
> My body man will be painting the rear fenders and putting everything back
> together. My questions are:  how easy is it to remove the fenders and
> windshield?  Which rust inhibitor do most professionals spray before painting?
>
> Although this is new to my son and I, we would like to do as much work as
> possible ourselves while the engine is being rebuilt.
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 00:21:24 2014
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References: <00E7D54E-3C59-4D79-80A5-1481B60B08E2@visioncenterpc.com>
 <53D9B850.5040105@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 08:21:12 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

2K epoxy is the way to go. Use the best brand you can find/afford.
After sand blasting I use a rust converter (basicly phosphatic accid) which
works very well. On suspension parts I tend to use a product, called Fertan
as cast iron is even more prone to rust than sheet metal.

Gergo


2014-07-31 5:30 GMT+02:00 Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>:

> I'm not a pro painter, but did a lot of research when restoring our BN2.
>  I don't believe painters use a rust inhibitor, per se.  Best technique is
> to strip down to bare metal, then immediately apply an epoxy primer (keep
> in mind any metal starts corroding as soon as it comes in contact with
> oxygen, facilitated by moisture, of which there is always some in the
> atmosphere).  Standard and 'high build' primers are remarkably porous, and
> unless you can strip to bare metal, apply primer, perform sanding,
> smoothing, etc. and finish paint in pretty much the same day or two you
> need to use an epoxy (two part) primer which effectively seals the surface.
>  There are various metal preps which will etch bare metal and leave a very
> thin phosphate coating--prior to primer--which is probably the best
> inhibitor you can get, but it may or may not be necessary depending on who
> you talk to (some prefer an etching primer).  Wear latex/vinyl/nitrile
> gloves to keep body oils off the bare metal.
>
> If the 100-6 is similar to our 100--I know, the windshields are different
> but both have similar side posts--the front fenders have to come off to get
> to the posts (which you say you're doing). Removing the fenders isn't too
> difficult--lots and lots of bolts, and you'll have to remove headlight
> buckets and turn signals.
>
> I encourage you to research paint and techniques--there is copious info on
> the interwebs.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> On 7/30/2014 7:57 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:
>
>> Greetings,
>>
>> It appears my current engine in my 100-6 needs an overhaul. I have the
>> original numbers matching engine in my shed with a broken rod. I plan on
>> having that original engine fully overhauled and the rear seal installed,
>> and
>> will be selling the other as a core. The car is in good shape but the
>> engine
>> bay is the wrong color, along with the frame, inside of trunk, etc.
>>
>> My son and I would like to keep the car this winter in my heated shed and
>> work
>> on it while my mechanic overhauls the engine. I would like to strip the
>> engine
>> bay and repaint it the same color as the outside (old English white) and
>> remove the fenders and repaint the frame. The frame is in great shape
>> along
>> with the suspension. This appears to have had a restoration somewhere in
>> the
>> past.
>>
>> My body man will be painting the rear fenders and putting everything back
>> together. My questions are:  how easy is it to remove the fenders and
>> windshield?  Which rust inhibitor do most professionals spray before
>> painting?
>>
>> Although this is new to my son and I, we would like to do as much work as
>> possible ourselves while the engine is being rebuilt.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
>
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 00:35:23 2014
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <00E7D54E-3C59-4D79-80A5-1481B60B08E2@visioncenterpc.com>
 <53D9B850.5040105@comcast.net>
 <CA+QDXmCUOc6vrfEYKF78SC524zuNabB_tPNmuk65WekTTTGCvw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Austin Healey wrote:
> 2K epoxy is the way to go.

I haven't done any painting for years, but back when I was I used PPG's precursor to the DP 4000 2K
primer. DP 40.  Or 90, or 60 or - the numbers referred to the color. It was available in quite a few
shades. High lead content too. But it didn't flazzle my brian et al, honest, thrust me!

mjb.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 00:36:48 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 08:36:50 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20140731022622.13898.qmail@server278.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil pressure (again)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Try another pressure gauge?
Kees Oudesluijs


healeymanjim@hansencc.net schreef op 31-7-2014 4:26:
> still trying to figure out why this bt7 has only about 30 or so pounds of oil pressure when it first starts and goes down from there.  the engine was rebuilt and has only about 1000 miles on it.  according to owner, it has always been that way.  most oil pressure ever seen was about 45 on cold mornings.  we have eliminated as problem area the filter, rocker arms system, the pressure relief valve, the indicating system, and oil pump.  i am beginning to suspect a major leak inside the engine, either from crankshaft (we are going to plastigage each journal) or possibly a hole in oil gallery somewhere.  any thing i might be missing?  TIA  hjim
> _______________________________________________
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> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7949 - datum van uitgifte: 07/30/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 06:21:06 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:20:54 +0200
From: Berry Mensen <berry@mever.be>
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] self cancelling overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know if you have the same experience, but I seem to forget most of
the time to flip the overdrive-switch back when I change gear.
This happens not only to me in my BJ8, but but also in 2 other (Volvo) cars
with overdrive that I own. These 2 cars I have fitted with a pulse-switch
and a special OD-relay and I experience a much relaxter drive.

Now I'm trying to do the same to my Healey, but the new phenomen in the
electic system is the throttle-switch.
I don't know if my planned conversion (see attached pdf file) is going to
work with this switch.
Has any of you more electonics savvy listers an idea - or even a better
idea?

Thanks.
Berry
BJ8 35197

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Overdrive-relais aansluitingenAH - versie 10.pdf]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 07:11:48 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 09:11:49 -0400
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: Berry Mensen <berry@mever.be>
Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] self cancelling overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Berry,

I am interested in your concept but the attachment was stripped from the
list.

Send it to me off list and I will look at it and see if I can help.

Fred


On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 8:20 AM, Berry Mensen <berry@mever.be> wrote:

> I don't know if you have the same experience, but I seem to forget most of
> the time to flip the overdrive-switch back when I change gear.
> This happens not only to me in my BJ8, but but also in 2 other (Volvo) cars
> with overdrive that I own. These 2 cars I have fitted with a pulse-switch
> and a special OD-relay and I experience a much relaxter drive.
>
> Now I'm trying to do the same to my Healey, but the new phenomen in the
> electic system is the throttle-switch.
> I don't know if my planned conversion (see attached pdf file) is going to
> work with this switch.
> Has any of you more electonics savvy listers an idea - or even a better
> idea?
>
> Thanks.
> Berry
> BJ8 35197
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a
> name of Overdrive-relais aansluitingenAH - versie 10.pdf]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 07:30:26 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 09:30:20 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The PPG DP primers are great, but they don't come without risk for the
do-it-yourselfer.  Like other epoxy paints, they contain isocyanates, which
are poisonous.  A normal face respirator isn't sufficient protection and
they have a cumulative effect that can actually coat the inside of your
lungs.  I've known a few painters who've had to quit the profession as
they've been told further exposure would kill them.  The manufactures
recommend a full face fresh air supplied respirator as well as full body
protection for application.  Google "*Questions and Answers About the Safe
Use* of.
*Isocyanates" to go to the PPG fact sheet.  *


On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 2:35 AM, Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:

> Austin Healey wrote:
>
>> 2K epoxy is the way to go.
>>
>
> I haven't done any painting for years, but back when I was I used PPG's
> precursor to the DP 4000 2K
> primer. DP 40.  Or 90, or 60 or - the numbers referred to the color. It
> was available in quite a few
> shades. High lead content too. But it didn't flazzle my brian et al,
> honest, thrust me!
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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> options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 23:54:18 +1000
From: J Armour <sebring3000@bigpond.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Denis Welch
 FILETIME=[EF956080:01CFACC6]
Subject: [Healeys] Denis Welch
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The world of Healeys has been enhanced by the enthusiasm, enterprise and
achievements of Denis. He was competing in motorcyle and sports car racing
for most of his life. I was lucky enough to have briefly meet him when I
witnessed him racing his 3000 "Bulldog", KVS.484, at Bathurst in an All
Healey Race that lister Chris 'Black and White Healey' Dimmock had a large
part in organising.

Denis and "Bulldog" had a proven record of being the fastest circuit racer
in its F.I.A. Class in European racing when they beat all comers including
Ferrari and Aston Martins to be declared u/3000cc G.T. Champion in 1990.
That is some achievement.

All Healey racers benefited from Denis's innovations with Healey race
preparation. He recognised the limitations of modified standard Healey
components and applied an engineering approach to make a 'better mousetrap'.
Rather than continue to modify the standard components available at that
time he sought to understand their limit and the cause of failure and solved
the problem to give  the rather basic Healey engine and transmission a whole
new life. He had components made or sourced to his improved specification.
These parts were made available to the general public and so many more
Healeys were seen on the track and peformed at a higher level. Look at the
number of  Healeys now competing at international circuits. LeMans Classic
and Goodwood Revival are premier events in classic sports car racing.

This increased visibility of Healeys on the track , and this is what Donald,
Geoff  and his team were paid to do, has meant our cars are more desireable
and sought after.

For a considerable period of time it was Denis Welch and Bulldog who were
keeping the Healey flag flying internationally. His approach and success has
enabled many others to join in and continue to uphold the profile of
Healeys. The UK and Dutch AH Clubs are very active and competitive in
classic and historic sports car racing, many using Denis Welch Motorsport
components that son Jeremy has taken over.

In 1996 I saw their  components on display at the International Healey
Weekend  and it was like exotic jewellery.  Non - racers also can gain an
advantage from better, longer life and smoother running components fitted to
our cars. Other items were developed to improve safety.

I hope Denis will not be forgotten

Joe
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 08:07:39 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 13:44:34 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?1959_100-6?=
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Be very careful with the products that have isocyananates and other nasty stuff in them.  My days of painting cars are over due to several reactions to different paint products over the years.  Not just breathing the stuff but you absorb it through your skin and eyes.  Be careful. 


Regarding a recommended product for priming and corrosion protection we (not me) have been using Z-Chrome Rust Defender for an all in one product for initial prime and high build.  Can be applied on bare metal or body filler and works well. Not cheap but if you shoot an epoxy primer and then a high build you will spend about the same amount. 

Aloha

Perry
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 09:38:45 2014
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References: <4A44F40471D80B418B0C39874148FCF00931F369@SBSERVER.deniswelch.local>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 08:37:03 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: News from Denis Welch Motorsport
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Received today....

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from my smartphone. what you get, May not be what I meant to send
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "sales@bighealey.co.uk" <sales@bighealey.co.uk>
Date: Jul 31, 2014 4:11 AM
Subject: News from Denis Welch Motorsport
To:
Cc:


    [image: bighealey.co.uk] <http://www.bighealey.co.uk/>    *31st July
2014 *
   Denis Welch
    17th December 1944 - 27th July 2014
*"Died doing what he loved best"*

It is with *great sadness that Denis Welch Motorsport* has to inform all
our customers and friends that
*Denis Welch, age 69, had a tragic motor racing accident on Sunday 27th
July 2014 in a race for HGPCA pre-66 Grand Prix at the Silverstone Circuit
and passed away as a result of his injuries.*

*Denis Welch* was at the wheel of a Lotus 18 which was involved in a
multi-car incident on a slow part
of the track, the Village/Loop complex.

 *Denis Welch Motorsport was established by Denis and Tina* in 1977 on the
site of a petrol station. Due to his passion for
Big Healeys, Denis developed high performance parts to keep the heritage of
the Austin-Healey going. In the early 1980s he expanded the business into
race preparation.

*Denis retired eight years ago to continue and to broaden his passion for
driving race cars. *Denis was very proud to be
a full member of the *BRDC.*

The company *Denis Welch Motorsport* was bought
by Denis' son -

* Jeremy Welch in 2006 who is continuing the development and supply of high
quality parts for Austin-Healey, Jaguar E-type and other brands as well as
providing race support and transportation for customers around the world.*

The *strong*
*Team at Denis Welch Motorsport is here to support Tina, Jeremy and the
Family as well as the Business*
at this difficult time.



------------------------------

Disclaimer

This e-mail and any attachments are confidential and may be legally
privileged. It is intended for the sole use of the addressee and not anyone
else. If you receive this email in error, please advise the sender
immediately.

Denis Welch Motors Limited is a limited company registered in England and
Wales.
Company Registration No. 1314890
Registered Offices: Sudbury Road Garage, Sudbury Road, Yoxall, Burton on
Trent, Staffordshire, DE13 8NA
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 10:46:46 2014
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From: sentenac.rw@gmail.com
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 09:46:36 -0700
References: <00E7D54E-3C59-4D79-80A5-1481B60B08E2@visioncenterpc.com>
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User-Agent: ForteAgent/7.20.32.1218
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

On Thu, 31 Jul 2014 09:30:20 -0400, you wrote:

I just checked again to be sure.  PPG epoxy primers do not have
isocyanates.  Other PPG primers DO but not the epoxy primers.  I have
used PPG epoxy primers over ten years, both the older DP40 and the
newer stuff.  Both are good base coats next to bare metal, and can be
a seal coat over the (sanded) filling primers.  Old PPG primers like
Kondar are just thinned with laquer thinner and no hardener.  But the
new primer-surfacer stuff is hardened with isocyanates.

The only thing about PPG epoxy primer is that if you don't cover it
with other primer or top coat within something like a week you have to
sand and recoat the epoxy before you cover it.  But for amateur
restorers having a very rust resistant coating on metal is worth the
hassle when it comes time months later to finish the painting job.

-Roland

On Thu, 31 Jul 2014 09:30:20 -0400, you wrote:

>The PPG DP primers are great, but they don't come without risk for the
>do-it-yourselfer.  Like other epoxy paints, they contain isocyanates, which
>are poisonous.  A normal face respirator isn't sufficient protection and
>they have a cumulative effect that can actually coat the inside of your
>lungs.  I've known a few painters who've had to quit the profession as
>they've been told further exposure would kill them.  The manufactures
>recommend a full face fresh air supplied respirator as well as full body
>protection for application.  Google "*Questions and Answers About the Safe
>Use* of.
>*Isocyanates" to go to the PPG fact sheet.  *
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 10:55:48 2014
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 <CAPAC+V5D2kXpDa-k8dvsZTNOG-rXdiV_EyU5g7AovtcQO79vGw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 17:55:55 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] self cancelling overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just bypass the throttle switch, its not needed.

Derek


On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 2:11 PM, Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com> wrote:

> Berry,
>
> I am interested in your concept but the attachment was stripped from the
> list.
>
> Send it to me off list and I will look at it and see if I can help.
>
> Fred
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 8:20 AM, Berry Mensen <berry@mever.be> wrote:
>
> > I don't know if you have the same experience, but I seem to forget most
> of
> > the time to flip the overdrive-switch back when I change gear.
> > This happens not only to me in my BJ8, but but also in 2 other (Volvo)
> cars
> > with overdrive that I own. These 2 cars I have fitted with a pulse-switch
> > and a special OD-relay and I experience a much relaxter drive.
> >
> > Now I'm trying to do the same to my Healey, but the new phenomen in the
> > electic system is the throttle-switch.
> > I don't know if my planned conversion (see attached pdf file) is going to
> > work with this switch.
> > Has any of you more electonics savvy listers an idea - or even a better
> > idea?
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Berry
> > BJ8 35197
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a
> > name of Overdrive-relais aansluitingenAH - versie 10.pdf]
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 11:39:13 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 11:36:19 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: sentenac.rw@gmail.com, HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
References: <00E7D54E-3C59-4D79-80A5-1481B60B08E2@visioncenterpc.com>
 <53D9B850.5040105@comcast.net>
 <CA+QDXmCUOc6vrfEYKF78SC524zuNabB_tPNmuk65WekTTTGCvw@mail.gmail.com>
 <53D9E3AF.5080105@bradakis.com>
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Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Typically the isocyanates are in the hardener not the base substrate..
dave
On 7/31/2014 10:46 AM, sentenac.rw@gmail.com wrote:
> On Thu, 31 Jul 2014 09:30:20 -0400, you wrote:
>
> I just checked again to be sure.  PPG epoxy primers do not have
> isocyanates.  Other PPG primers DO but not the epoxy primers.  I have
> used PPG epoxy primers over ten years, both the older DP40 and the
> newer stuff.  Both are good base coats next to bare metal, and can be
> a seal coat over the (sanded) filling primers.  Old PPG primers like
> Kondar are just thinned with laquer thinner and no hardener.  But the
> new primer-surfacer stuff is hardened with isocyanates.
>
> The only thing about PPG epoxy primer is that if you don't cover it
> with other primer or top coat within something like a week you have to
> sand and recoat the epoxy before you cover it.  But for amateur
> restorers having a very rust resistant coating on metal is worth the
> hassle when it comes time months later to finish the painting job.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Thu, 31 Jul 2014 09:30:20 -0400, you wrote:
>
>> The PPG DP primers are great, but they don't come without risk for the
>> do-it-yourselfer.  Like other epoxy paints, they contain isocyanates, which
>> are poisonous.  A normal face respirator isn't sufficient protection and
>> they have a cumulative effect that can actually coat the inside of your
>> lungs.  I've known a few painters who've had to quit the profession as
>> they've been told further exposure would kill them.  The manufactures
>> recommend a full face fresh air supplied respirator as well as full body
>> protection for application.  Google "*Questions and Answers About the Safe
>> Use* of.
>> *Isocyanates" to go to the PPG fact sheet.  *
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 13:59:18 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:59:06 -0500
From: Sean Sexton <seansxton@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] PPG epoxy primer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Concur with all the responses about the use of the epoxy primer.

Plan your work so you finish with primer on top as the last thing you do.
May be more work sometimes but knowing you have a good base and dont need
to rush to get back to a project is worth the effort.

When you do have to recoat the dry time isnt too long plus it provides a
good guide coat when sanding.  Very easy to work with and worth the money.

Sean Sexton
62 BT7 Tricarb
_______________________________________________
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From: Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 22:11:51 +0100
To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] self cancelling overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Me too please Berry.

Alan - from my iPad

> On 31 Jul 2014, at 14:11, Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Berry,
>
> I am interested in your concept but the attachment was stripped from the
> list.
>
> Send it to me off list and I will look at it and see if I can help.
>
> Fred
>
>
>> On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 8:20 AM, Berry Mensen <berry@mever.be> wrote:
>>
>> I don't know if you have the same experience, but I seem to forget most of
>> the time to flip the overdrive-switch back when I change gear.
>> This happens not only to me in my BJ8, but but also in 2 other (Volvo)
cars
>> with overdrive that I own. These 2 cars I have fitted with a pulse-switch
>> and a special OD-relay and I experience a much relaxter drive.
>>
>> Now I'm trying to do the same to my Healey, but the new phenomen in the
>> electic system is the throttle-switch.
>> I don't know if my planned conversion (see attached pdf file) is going to
>> work with this switch.
>> Has any of you more electonics savvy listers an idea - or even a better
>> idea?
>>
>> Thanks.
>> Berry
>> BJ8 35197
>>
>> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a
>> name of Overdrive-relais aansluitingenAH - versie 10.pdf]
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 15:19:13 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 17:19:18 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
To: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 100-6
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Roland,

I stand corrected, thanks.  I checked the MSDS sheets for DP40 and DP40LF
(the catalyst) and didn't see any isocyanates. PPG recommends a cartridge
respirator with fresh filters for application or an air supplied
respirator.


On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 1:36 PM, David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
wrote:

> Typically the isocyanates are in the hardener not the base substrate..
> dave
> On 7/31/2014 10:46 AM, sentenac.rw@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 31 Jul 2014 09:30:20 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>> I just checked again to be sure.  PPG epoxy primers do not have
>> isocyanates.  Other PPG primers DO but not the epoxy primers.  I have
>> used PPG epoxy primers over ten years, both the older DP40 and the
>> newer stuff.  Both are good base coats next to bare metal, and can be
>> a seal coat over the (sanded) filling primers.  Old PPG primers like
>> Kondar are just thinned with laquer thinner and no hardener.  But the
>> new primer-surfacer stuff is hardened with isocyanates.
>>
>> The only thing about PPG epoxy primer is that if you don't cover it
>> with other primer or top coat within something like a week you have to
>> sand and recoat the epoxy before you cover it.  But for amateur
>> restorers having a very rust resistant coating on metal is worth the
>> hassle when it comes time months later to finish the painting job.
>>
>> -Roland
>>
>> On Thu, 31 Jul 2014 09:30:20 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>>  The PPG DP primers are great, but they don't come without risk for the
>>> do-it-yourselfer.  Like other epoxy paints, they contain isocyanates,
>>> which
>>> are poisonous.  A normal face respirator isn't sufficient protection and
>>> they have a cumulative effect that can actually coat the inside of your
>>> lungs.  I've known a few painters who've had to quit the profession as
>>> they've been told further exposure would kill them.  The manufactures
>>> recommend a full face fresh air supplied respirator as well as full body
>>> protection for application.  Google "*Questions and Answers About the
>>> Safe
>>> Use* of.
>>> *Isocyanates" to go to the PPG fact sheet.  *
>>>
>>
>>
>>
> --
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 15:56:57 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:56:49 -0700
From: Dean Caccavo <healeybn7@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual Throat SUs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Interesting discussion on the SUs.

We have a 61 Warwick GT that is fitted with a period built TR3 Tunex Stage II engine.  This was the only Tunex 4 cylinder engine that was built for Warwick Cars (Bernie Rogers Developments).  They could barely afford the one.  8mm film and photos of the original engine shows it with a pair of SU DU6 carbs.  

When their racing campaign ended, the engine was de-tuned and installed into a customer car (our car).  As I understand it the only modification was to remove the SU DU6 carbs and replace them with off the shelf TR3 carbs.   I wish I was the one to take them off - at least I would have a pair as they are impossible to fine, and look wonderful.

Dean 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 16:06:54 2014
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From: "Jerry Costanzo" <grumpyinloomis@ssctv.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1406843809.60634.YahooMailBasic@web121906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 15:06:58 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dual Throat SUs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That is funny to me.  I just put some extra HD6 carbs onto my TR3A that I 
just finished.  They run much better than the TR3 HS6 or H6 for some reason. 
Much more power out of the engine.

Jerry 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 16:58:50 2014
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Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2014 18:58:48 -0400
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

A couple trips home in the dark and the recent lighting issue in the AH
club magazine has gotten my thinking about replacing the headlights in my
car.  The PO put about 5000 miles on the car in 20+ years that he owned it,
so the headlights could easily be 30 years old.

There's a lot of discussion in the archives, and I'm more confused than
when I started.

Is there a sealed halogen lamp that's a direct replacement for our U.S.
Healeys?   Something that I could ask for in my local auto parts store?

If I go the H4-aftermarket route, are there any advantages to the H4
conversion?  Will any good-quality 7" H4 assembly work?

thanks,

Tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Jul 31 18:00:52 2014
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Tom'" <ah3000me@gmail.com>, "'Healey Mail List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CANQM1PKYyd8c3nNj5uMpw1GqqU7ykjCkb1Jvknd3DwROm5NY6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2014 10:00:47 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac+tExSuEFAdf4GNTL6UwJcA21pTxAACBZdw
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] headlights
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Tom
I run Hella h4 headlights in both my cars.60/55 bulbs, no relays, standard
wiring although new.
The light is fantastic, no need for driving lights. The only negative is
they have a flat glass, not curved, so not politically correct, but I don't
care.
Cheers
John Rowe
Qld Australia
BN1 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom
Sent: Friday, 1 August 2014 8:59 AM
To: Healey Mail List
Subject: [Healeys] headlights

Hi,

A couple trips home in the dark and the recent lighting issue in the AH club
magazine has gotten my thinking about replacing the headlights in my car.
The PO put about 5000 miles on the car in 20+ years that he owned it, so the
headlights could easily be 30 years old.

There's a lot of discussion in the archives, and I'm more confused than when
I started.

Is there a sealed halogen lamp that's a direct replacement for our U.S.
Healeys?   Something that I could ask for in my local auto parts store?

If I go the H4-aftermarket route, are there any advantages to the H4
conversion?  Will any good-quality 7" H4 assembly work?

thanks,

Tom
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Date: Tue, 01 Jul 2014 10:56:17 -0400
From: ggilliam@usol.com
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Today on BAT
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This morning on Barn Finds:

http://barnfinds.com/which-big-healey-would-you-bag/

Gordy
Longbridge BN4
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Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2014 11:14:10 -0700
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
To: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fender beading
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Status: RO

Thanks to all for the advice on fender beading installation.
It's good to be back on the list!

Stephen BJ8
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 09:32:53 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Howdy all,
 I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good
news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is
this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I have
aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter. Am
I special or have other dealt with this issue?
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
bus.b
b FranC'oise Sagan
<https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2014 21:37:40 +0200
To: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>, "Healeys,  Forum"
  <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?oil_vent_filter?=
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Status: RO

This is not normal!!

I suspect too much oil unter the rocker cover. Your rocker shaft may need an overhaul.

Josef Eckert

-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Datum: Wed, 02 Jul 2014 21:33:20 +0200
Von: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
An: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>

Howdy all,
 I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good
news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is
this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I have
aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter. Am
I special or have other dealt with this issue?
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 12:57:19 -0700
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Cc: "Healeys, Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

had it done about 40K  and 38 years ago. The oil is emitted as a vapor from
the filter. As I recall I need to pull the valve cover, run the engine and
see if oil is spouting. Is that right? The only thing changed since last
ran the car was the filter. I used to have it just run to ground. I did
just tighten the valve cover. it was loose.

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
bus.b
b FranC'oise Sagan
<https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>







On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 12:37 PM, josef-eckert@t-online.de <
josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:

> This is not normal!!
>
> I suspect too much oil unter the rocker cover. Your rocker shaft may need
> an overhaul.
>
> Josef Eckert
>
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
> Betreff: [Healeys] oil vent filter
> Datum: Wed, 02 Jul 2014 21:33:20 +0200
> Von: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
> An: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
>
> Howdy all,
>  I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
> expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good
> news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is
> this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
> consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I have
> aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter. Am
> I special or have other dealt with this issue?
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Probably blow-by blasting oil from under the valve cover. I presume you're using the filter bass-ackwards of how it was intended; i.e. to stop oil going out instead of filtering air going in? 

I installed a PCV valve when I put K&N filters on my BJ8. Been glad ever since I did it--lower oil consumption and less leaking from the rear mean 'seal.' BCS has a kit (at least, they used to). 

Bob 


Howdy all, 
I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have 
expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good 
news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is 
this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative 
consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a major issue. I have 
aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter. Am 
I special or have other dealt with this issue? 
Ira Erbs 
IT Teacher 
and Consultant 
Portland, OR 

bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a 
bus.b 
b FranC'oise Sagan 
<https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan> 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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References: <CACPMnYp_fqTNdSA=34WRPRk-c0N=Q5NQktBdo7Rkj4EehXyp8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <627376877.22698508.1404331635092.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 13:22:30 -0700
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

http://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=35&new=1
Using this breather. see photo

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
bus.b
b FranC'oise Sagan
<https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>







On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 1:07 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Probably blow-by blasting oil from under the valve cover.  I presume
> you're using the filter bass-ackwards of how it was intended; i.e. to stop
> oil going out instead of filtering air going in?
>
> I installed a PCV valve when I put K&N filters on my BJ8.  Been glad ever
> since I did it--lower oil consumption and less leaking from the rear mean
> 'seal.'  BCS has a kit (at least, they used to).
>
> Bob
>
>
> Howdy all,
>  I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
> expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good
> news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is
> this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
> consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I have
> aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter. Am
> I special or have other dealt with this issue?
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
> bus.b
> b FranC'oise Sagan
> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
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Status: RO

An oil separator would be more appropriate.


----- Original Message -----



http://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=35&new=1
Using this breather. see photo

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
bus.b
b FranC'oise Sagan
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYp_fqTNdSA=34WRPRk-c0N=Q5NQktBdo7Rkj4EehXyp8Q@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 13:33:14 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Oil should dribble out of the rocker shaft holes, if it is spouting, shaft
needs to be rebuilt.

John Spaur

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Wednesday, July 2, 2014 12:57 PM
To: josef-eckert@t-online.de
Cc: Healeys, Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter

As I recall I need to pull the valve cover, run the engine and see if oil is
spouting. Is that right? 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2014 22:38:40 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CACPMnYp_fqTNdSA=34WRPRk-c0N=Q5NQktBdo7Rkj4EehXyp8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

You need some kind of oil barrier. This usually set up using some baffle 
plates and a membrane valve, while the valve vents to the carbs. There 
may be some baffle plates in the valve cover but on the pipe on the 
valve cover there should normally be a largish valve (ca. 2-3") with a 
disc held by a spring on top, perhaps your car will have a different 
arrangement.
The vent can be fitted to one or all K&N covers bij drilling a hole and 
fit a suitable nipple.
Kees Oudesluijs


I Erbs schreef op 2-7-2014 18:32:
> Howdy all,
>   I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
> expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good
> news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is
> this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
> consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I have
> aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter. Am
> I special or have other dealt with this issue?
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
> bus.b
> b FranC'oise Sagan
> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4592 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7784 - datum van uitgifte: 07/02/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 20:39:35 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Armacord
Thread-Index: GUIVCE1DHg5nu7vaBcCf9pDcwfkiQg==
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Subject: [Healeys] Armacord
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Hey Listers, 

I'm installing the upholstery for our BN2 (man, what a job!). I've botched a few things--not too surprising since this is my first upholstery job--including some of the Armacord (patterned vinyl backed by a jute-like material). Anyone know where I could obtain a couple square feet of this stuff (black)? 

TIA, 
Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
_______________________________________________
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From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CACPMnYp_fqTNdSA=34WRPRk-c0N=Q5NQktBdo7Rkj4EehXyp8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <627376877.22698508.1404331635092.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I have used similar ones before. They keep some dirt out but will not 
keep the oil in, you will need a breather valve of some sorts.
Kees Oudesluijs

I Erbs schreef op 2-7-2014 22:22:
> http://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=35&new=1
> Using this breather. see photo
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
> bus.b
> b FranC'oise Sagan
> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 1:07 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Probably blow-by blasting oil from under the valve cover.  I presume
>> you're using the filter bass-ackwards of how it was intended; i.e. to stop
>> oil going out instead of filtering air going in?
>>
>> I installed a PCV valve when I put K&N filters on my BJ8.  Been glad ever
>> since I did it--lower oil consumption and less leaking from the rear mean
>> 'seal.'  BCS has a kit (at least, they used to).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> Howdy all,
>>   I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
>> expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good
>> news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is
>> this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
>> consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I have
>> aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter. Am
>> I special or have other dealt with this issue?
>> Ira Erbs
>> IT Teacher
>> and Consultant
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
>> bus.b
>> b FranC'oise Sagan
>> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4592 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7784 - datum van uitgifte: 07/02/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

What was your reason for not using the original crankcase ventilation system?
Gary Hodson








>
> Howdy all,
>  I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
> expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good
> news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is
> this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
> consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I have
> aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter. Am
> I special or have other dealt with this issue?
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 13:57:20 -0700
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>, Ahealey help
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

K&N filters do not have the hose nipple, plus the breather looks cool I
guess I can cut on einto the back of the rear filter like oem

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
bus.b
b FranC'oise Sagan
<https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>







On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 1:50 PM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

>  What was your reason for not using the original crankcase ventilation
> system?
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> > Howdy all,
> >  I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
> > expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good
> > news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is
> > this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
> > consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I
have
> > aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter.
Am
> > I special or have other dealt with this issue?
> > Ira Erbs
> > IT Teacher
> > and Consultant
> > Portland, OR
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Healeys@autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 14:24:07 -0700
From: jomar healey <ah53@yahoo.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Armacord
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Woolies:  
http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-127-hardura.aspx



Joe
'53 BN1
#923 Coronet Cream
'56 100M
'67 BJ8 aka Blue Baby per wife and kid
 
On
Wednesday, July 2, 2014 4:39 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
Hey Listers, 

I'm installing the upholstery for our BN2 (man, what a job!).
I've botched a few things--not
 too surprising since this is my first
upholstery job--including some of the Armacord (patterned vinyl backed by a
jute-like material). Anyone know where I could obtain a couple square feet of
this stuff (black)? 

TIA, 
Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob
Spidell - San Jose, CA 
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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 <683886745.22724612.1404333575691.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 14:46:08 -0700
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Armacord
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Maybe Moss. I got some bulk carpet from them that matched the dye lot of
the carpet kit. They cut their own. Maybe the same with the armacord

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 1:39 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Hey Listers,
>
> I'm installing the upholstery for our BN2 (man, what a job!). I've botched
> a few things--not too surprising since this is my first upholstery
> job--including some of the Armacord (patterned vinyl backed by a jute-like
> material). Anyone know where I could obtain a couple square feet of this
> stuff (black)?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 18:03:22 -0400
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Ira,

There are two means of correcting the excessive oil vapor.  The first is to
replace the rear main oil seal.  This will stop/reduce the oil leak there.
I am told this can only be done with the engine out of the car.  If you
replace the rear main seal, you will still have vapors in the rocker
cover.  The PCV valve step will solve the rest of the problem.

For the other means of solving the problem, first check the oil hole on the
rocker shaft, with the valve cover off, the engine warm and at about 2,500
- 3,000 RPM.  There should be nothing but "seepage" along the shaft at each
rocker.  If there is spouting oil from the oil hole, the rocker needs to be
redone.  This oil spouting produces a larger amount of vapor inside the
rocker cover.

Once you determine the condition of the rocker shaft, then you can deal
with the vapors.  You must install a PCV valve, in the proper vacuum flow
orientation.  If it is the incorrect type of PCV valve, it will not work as
needed.  I cannot remember the NAPA part number but it is a type 1,
Connect the hose from the PCV valve to the intake manifold.

If the correct PCV valve is properly installed, the PCV valve draws the
vapor from the rocker cover when there is low rpm (idle equals higher
vacuum, that is when the PCV is open) and does not draw fumes when the
vacuum is low (higher rpm equals lower vacuum, that is when the PCV valve
is closed).  This will eliminate the rear oil seal leak.  This will
eliminate/drastically reduce the oil leak even if you do not replace the
rear main seal.

I completed this installation a number of years ago and it works just as I
have explained.  No leaks, drips or errors (sic).  No oil in the under hood
area or under the car or on the floor.  And, the car runs just as it did
before the PCV valve installation.

I don't know about the BCS kit, but the operation of the valve is explained
in Norm Knock's manual.

The filter on the "T" will clog quickly and the oil will then start to leak.

Fred
63BJ7



On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 12:32 PM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

> Howdy all,
>  I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
> expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good
> news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is
> this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
> consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I have
> aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter. Am
> I special or have other dealt with this issue?
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> b Money may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
> bus.b
> b  FranC'oise Sagan
> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 18:07:41 -0400
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I had the same set up. However no oil, thought I smelled some vapors and ran a
hose from the T down next to the motor so any vapor went ou under the car.

Just got back from 2000 mile conclave / tour drive and no speakable oil
underneath by the breather.

Randy

On Jul 2, 2014, at 4:22 PM, I Erbs wrote:

> http://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=35&new=1
> Using this breather. see photo
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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From: R. Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 18:23:30 -0400
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive - Still
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I am still having trouble making my OD work properly.  I can move the leaver
on the right side of the OD by hand and engage OD.  I followed the
instructions in the manual to test the pump and when I took the operating
valve out and engaged OD there was oil coming out.  I reluctantly think the
hydraulic operation is OK but I don't have a way of testing the pressure.  So,
maybe it's not.

Electrically all the parts seem to work fine.  I've replaced the switch on the
transmission, just to be sure.  I hear the solenoid click when I throw the
dash switch and when I turn the dash switch to the off position and depress
the accelerator, I hear the solenoid disengage.  I'm not sure how far the
solenoid should move the lever on the left/right side of the OD nor how to
properly set it.  I bought a new solenoid thinking mine was not moving far
enough but the new one lifts about the same distance as the old one.

So, my questions are: 1. How far should the solenoid plunger lift the lever?
Should the lift be 1/2" or a smaller amount (I moved the lever on the right by
hand what seemed like 3/8 to 1/2 inch to engage OD)?  2. How do you properly
set the plunger/lever setting? and 3. How much oil should be coming out of the
operating valve? Should it be a "gusher" or just a continuous stream (maybe
the pump is bad)?

I'm hoping it's just adjustments but any help someone can give me would be
greatly appreciated!!  Thank you in advance

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:33 2018
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'R. Price Lindsay'" <050.rpl@gmail.com>, "'Healey List'"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <B52C326D-49C8-4539-A6C0-21D311483E5E@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 15:31:59 -0700
Content-Language: en-us
Thread-Index: AQGQvuYvlDxjGFevo4gtfpMrO61mLZwLDGGA
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive - Still
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

James Holekamp makes are very nice OD pressure gauge with all the fittings
for $49.50 plus shipping which was $6 as of 10/29/2013.

jholekamp@sbcglobal.net
630-653-0610

No financial interest.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
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Status: RO

Is the metal plate piece missing from the inside of your valve cover? that
piece should catch and drop most of the oil from entering the "T" pipe.

Either way, that pipe has to go somewhere.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:34 2018
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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2014 00:51:01 +0200
From: Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <B52C326D-49C8-4539-A6C0-21D311483E5E@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive - Still
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Price
I'm sure it's just that the thing is not adjusted correctly. On the 
right side of your overdrive there is a lever, as you know. There is a 
3/16 inch hole at the end of this lever. In the OD casing there is also 
a hole of the same size. Lock your lever at the hole in the casing with 
a screw or something of a fitting size.
Then go to the left side of your OD. Loosen the adjusting screw on the 
lever that the solenoid draw and push the solenoid plunger right to the 
top. Tighten the screw there. Then check that when the solenoid is at 
its top the holes on the right side coincide. Don't adjust it to far 
down, the solenoid has to go to the top in its housing, otherwise it 
will burn itself up.
This is described in the workshop manual, everyone should have one.

Best regards, Per

R. Price Lindsay skrev 2014-07-03 00:23:

   2. How do you properly set the plunger/lever setting?
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From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 19:05:20 -0400
To: Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive - Still
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Thank you Per!  I'll give this a try.

Price Lindsay


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 2, 2014, at 6:51 PM, Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se> wrote:
>
> Price
> I'm sure it's just that the thing is not adjusted correctly. On the right
side of your overdrive there is a lever, as you know. There is a 3/16 inch
hole at the end of this lever. In the OD casing there is also a hole of the
same size. Lock your lever at the hole in the casing with a screw or something
of a fitting size.
> Then go to the left side of your OD. Loosen the adjusting screw on the lever
that the solenoid draw and push the solenoid plunger right to the top. Tighten
the screw there. Then check that when the solenoid is at its top the holes on
the right side coincide. Don't adjust it to far down, the solenoid has to go
to the top in its housing, otherwise it will burn itself up.
> This is described in the workshop manual, everyone should have one.
>
> Best regards, Per
>
> R. Price Lindsay skrev 2014-07-03 00:23:
>
>  2. How do you properly set the plunger/lever setting?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl@gmail.com
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

The first step to check the rocker shaft is an easy one - remove the oil
filler cap with the engine running. Often a worn shaft will be readily
apparent without removing the valve cover.


Jim Werner



-----Original Message-----
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 2, 2014 6:04 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter


Ira,

There are two means of correcting the excessive oil vapor.  The first is to
replace the rear main oil seal.  This will stop/reduce the oil leak there.
I am told this can only be done with the engine out of the car.  If you
replace the rear main seal, you will still have vapors in the rocker
cover.  The PCV valve step will solve the rest of the problem.

For the other means of solving the problem, first check the oil hole on the
rocker shaft, with the valve cover off, the engine warm and at about 2,500
- 3,000 RPM.  There should be nothing but "seepage" along the shaft at each
rocker.  If there is spouting oil from the oil hole, the rocker needs to be
redone.  This oil spouting produces a larger amount of vapor inside the
rocker cover.

Once you determine the condition of the rocker shaft, then you can deal
with the vapors.  You must install a PCV valve, in the proper vacuum flow
orientation.  If it is the incorrect type of PCV valve, it will not work as
needed.  I cannot remember the NAPA part number but it is a type 1,
Connect the hose from the PCV valve to the intake manifold.

If the correct PCV valve is properly installed, the PCV valve draws the
vapor from the rocker cover when there is low rpm (idle equals higher
vacuum, that is when the PCV is open) and does not draw fumes when the
vacuum is low (higher rpm equals lower vacuum, that is when the PCV valve
is closed).  This will eliminate the rear oil seal leak.  This will
eliminate/drastically reduce the oil leak even if you do not replace the
rear main seal.

I completed this installation a number of years ago and it works just as I
have explained.  No leaks, drips or errors (sic).  No oil in the under hood
area or under the car or on the floor.  And, the car runs just as it did
before the PCV valve installation.

I don't know about the BCS kit, but the operation of the valve is explained
in Norm Knock's manual.

The filter on the "T" will clog quickly and the oil will then start to leak.

Fred
63BJ7



On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 12:32 PM, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:

> Howdy all,
>  I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
> expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good
> news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is
> this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
> consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I have
> aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter. Am
> I special or have other dealt with this issue?
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> b Money may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
> bus.b
> b  FranC'oise Sagan
> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <eyera3@gmail.com>, <warthodson@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2014 01:34:22 +0000
References: <CACPMnYp_fqTNdSA=34WRPRk-c0N=Q5NQktBdo7Rkj4EehXyp8Q@mail.gmail.com>,
 <1X2QLc-0DDinA0@fwd03.aul.t-online.de>,
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 FILETIME=[EAFC4FD0:01CF965E]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Ira,

It would be much simpler to install a PCV valve. There is a method shown in
John Sims' archives. Very simple on a 6, takes a lot more work on a 4. The
parts you need will cost less than $10. Solves the problem, keeps the engine
clean and slows down the oil leaks.

Bill Lawrence

> From: eyera3@gmail.com
> Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 13:57:20 -0700
> To: warthodson@aol.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
>
> K&N filters do not have the hose nipple, plus the breather looks cool I
> guess I can cut on einto the back of the rear filter like oem
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
> bus.b
> b FranC'oise Sagan
> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 1:50 PM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
>
> >  What was your reason for not using the original crankcase ventilation
> > system?
> > Gary Hodson
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Howdy all,
> > >  I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
> > > expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay.
Good
> > > news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay.
Is
> > > this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
> > > consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I
> have
> > > aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air
filter.
> Am
> > > I special or have other dealt with this issue?
> > > Ira Erbs
> > > IT Teacher
> > > and Consultant
> > > Portland, OR
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Healeys@autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson@aol.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
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Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 18:34:30 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: healeyguy@aol.com, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Have aftermarket rear seal. After having a Healey specialist I know look at
it he seems to feel oil leaking from my valve cover is being blown around
the engine bay. Ill replace the gasket this weekend and seal it with the
Right Stuff sealant. Clean  it and sed if things improve. Thanks all fir
your comments. Drove it to Summer School today. The kids and staff loved it.

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
On Jul 2, 2014 6:26 PM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:

>  Ira
> Austin engines have to have a way for excess crankcase pressure to leave
> the engine.  On the 100 (four cylinder cars) there was a road draft tube
> the vented the lifter gallery cover.  The car moving forward caused the air
> blowing by the pipe opening (below the engine) to suck the air out of the
> engine.  When the car was not moving it didnbt work so well. On the six
> cylinder cars they connected the lifter cover and the valve cover to the
> vent tube and then hooked into the air cleaner.  The vented crankcase gases
> were pulled into the rear carb.  Having a filter on the end of the vent
> tube and not connecting to the air filter will cause the crankcase pressure
> to build up. Granted the condition of the rocker shaft  and bushing add to
> the oil issue if they are worn but the need for a vent with negative
> pressure (suction) is required. The original screw seal on the rear of the
> crankshaft will not tolerate a lot of crankcase pressure and will leak like
> a sieve. An aftermarket crank seal helps in that location but does nothing
> for the real problem.  The other solution is the installation of a PCV
> valve in the intake manifold with the appropriate plumbing.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
> Sent from Windows Mail
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Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 17:31:15 +0100
From: "hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk" <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Scotland to Italy in 100!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi all,

I recently had email correspondence with Michael Orritt and happened
to mention a planned trip to Italy in the 100. He asked that I et the list
know what we are doing. Well, we left our home in Scotland yesterday morning.
We motored over the Cairn o Mount pass and then onto the A 90 down to
Edinburgh.  We had a real old fashioned run down the A697 crossing the border
into England at Coldstream. A great driving road with very little traffic.  We
arrived in Wetherby Yorkshire for our first overnight at around 6 00 pm.
Around 300 miles at 27 to the (uk) gallon. Today we carried on down the A 1
and round the M25 for an overnight in Maidstone. Tomorrow the ferry from Dover
to Calais and on down to Toul. No problems so far. Keep fingers crossed for
us. Our goal is Cogne in the Val d'aosta on Saturday. Oh yes how could I
forget! We are hoping to call into the Schlumff Museum in Mulhouse on the way
down. Lots of Bugattis I believe. 

Regards

Mike B

Sent from Yahoo Mail on
Android
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Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2014 23:22:49 -0400
From: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.2; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130215
 Thunderbird/17.0.3
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1404318675.64231.YahooMailAndroidMobile@web171804.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scotland to Italy in 100!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Sounds like a wonderful trip. Best of luck!
Elton
On 7/2/2014 12:31 PM, hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I recently had email correspondence with Michael Orritt and happened
> to mention a planned trip to Italy in the 100. He asked that I et the list
> know what we are doing. Well, we left our home in Scotland yesterday morning.
> We motored over the Cairn o Mount pass and then onto the A 90 down to
> Edinburgh.  We had a real old fashioned run down the A697 crossing the border
> into England at Coldstream. A great driving road with very little traffic.  We
> arrived in Wetherby Yorkshire for our first overnight at around 6 00 pm.
> Around 300 miles at 27 to the (uk) gallon. Today we carried on down the A 1
> and round the M25 for an overnight in Maidstone. Tomorrow the ferry from Dover
> to Calais and on down to Toul. No problems so far. Keep fingers crossed for
> us. Our goal is Cogne in the Val d'aosta on Saturday. Oh yes how could I
> forget! We are hoping to call into the Schlumff Museum in Mulhouse on the way
> down. Lots of Bugattis I believe.
>
> Regards
>
> Mike B
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on
> Android
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Elton Schulz" <eschulz@frontiernet.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1404318675.64231.YahooMailAndroidMobile@web171804.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
 <53B4CC89.8070504@frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 22:49:59 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scotland to Italy in 100!!
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"Onto the A 90" how appropriate!  Enjoy the trip.

Greg Lemon
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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2014 08:55:01 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CACPMnYp_fqTNdSA=34WRPRk-c0N=Q5NQktBdo7Rkj4EehXyp8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <1X2QLc-0DDinA0@fwd03.aul.t-online.de>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

AFAIK K&N do carry these hose nipples, but you can source them from your 
local hardware shop in either brass, steel or plastic.
Kees Oudesluijs

I Erbs schreef op 2-7-2014 22:57:
> K&N filters do not have the hose nipple, plus the breather looks cool I
> guess I can cut on einto the back of the rear filter like oem
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
> bus.b
> b FranC'oise Sagan
> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 1:50 PM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:
>
>>   What was your reason for not using the original crankcase ventilation
>> system?
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> Howdy all,
>>>   I put a K&N vent filter on the T pipe on top of my valve cover. I have
>>> expereinced a lot of oil mist condensation all over the engine bay. Good
>>> news, nothing will rust, bad news I have oil all over the engine bay. Is
>>> this due to high crankcase pressure or is this a normal, negative
>>> consequence? The filter looks great, but the oil is a  major issue. I
> have
>>> aftermarket K&N filters with no hose nipple to attach to the air filter.
> Am
>>> I special or have other dealt with this issue?
>>> Ira Erbs
>>> IT Teacher
>>> and Consultant
>>> Portland, OR
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
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> -----
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> Versie: 2014.0.4592 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7784 - datum van uitgifte: 07/02/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:34 2018
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Date: Thu, 03 Jul 2014 09:07:53 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1404318675.64231.YahooMailAndroidMobile@web171804.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scotland to Italy in 100!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

M|hlhouse has to TWO fine museums, the Schlumph museum with countless 
Bugatti's and other very rare French cars, but there is also a 
spectacular Railway museum that must be visited.
The most interesting car museum I have ever come accross is the one in 
the Imperial Palace at Compihgne, just North of Paris. Set up in ca.1925 
with cars that were found at that time. Most if not all showed as found. 
I do not think that much has been added since 1925. It has extremely 
rare vehicles/cars of the earliest period of powered vehicles. The 
museum building itself and the presentation is not much but, oh boy, the 
collection is unsurpassed.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL



hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk schreef op 2-7-2014 18:31:
> Hi all,
>
> I recently had email correspondence with Michael Orritt and happened
> to mention a planned trip to Italy in the 100. He asked that I et the list
> know what we are doing. Well, we left our home in Scotland yesterday morning.
> We motored over the Cairn o Mount pass and then onto the A 90 down to
> Edinburgh.  We had a real old fashioned run down the A697 crossing the border
> into England at Coldstream. A great driving road with very little traffic.  We
> arrived in Wetherby Yorkshire for our first overnight at around 6 00 pm.
> Around 300 miles at 27 to the (uk) gallon. Today we carried on down the A 1
> and round the M25 for an overnight in Maidstone. Tomorrow the ferry from Dover
> to Calais and on down to Toul. No problems so far. Keep fingers crossed for
> us. Our goal is Cogne in the Val d'aosta on Saturday. Oh yes how could I
> forget! We are hoping to call into the Schlumff Museum in Mulhouse on the way
> down. Lots of Bugattis I believe.
>
> Regards
>
> Mike B
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on
> Android
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4592 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7784 - datum van uitgifte: 07/02/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:34 2018
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To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYp_fqTNdSA=34WRPRk-c0N=Q5NQktBdo7Rkj4EehXyp8Q@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Ira,

Make sure the lip of the valve cover is flat.  I usually glue the gasket 
to the valve cover and use some grease on the cylinder head side of the 
gasket.  That way I can remove the valve cover and not worry about the 
gasket sticking to the head.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 07/02/2014 09:34 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> Have aftermarket rear seal. After having a Healey specialist I know look at
> it he seems to feel oil leaking from my valve cover is being blown around
> the engine bay. Ill replace the gasket this weekend and seal it with the
> Right Stuff sealant. Clean  it and sed if things improve. Thanks all fir
> your comments. Drove it to Summer School today. The kids and staff loved it.
>
> I Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> On Jul 2, 2014 6:26 PM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:
>
>>   Ira
>> Austin engines have to have a way for excess crankcase pressure to leave
>> the engine.  On the 100 (four cylinder cars) there was a road draft tube
>> the vented the lifter gallery cover.  The car moving forward caused the air
>> blowing by the pipe opening (below the engine) to suck the air out of the
>> engine.  When the car was not moving it didnbt work so well. On the six
>> cylinder cars they connected the lifter cover and the valve cover to the
>> vent tube and then hooked into the air cleaner.  The vented crankcase gases
>> were pulled into the rear carb.  Having a filter on the end of the vent
>> tube and not connecting to the air filter will cause the crankcase pressure
>> to build up. Granted the condition of the rocker shaft  and bushing add to
>> the oil issue if they are worn but the need for a vent with negative
>> pressure (suction) is required. The original screw seal on the rear of the
>> crankshaft will not tolerate a lot of crankcase pressure and will leak like
>> a sieve. An aftermarket crank seal helps in that location but does nothing
>> for the real problem.  The other solution is the installation of a PCV
>> valve in the intake manifold with the appropriate plumbing.
>> Aloha
>> Perry
>>
>> Sent from Windows Mail
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 22:13:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey
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In remembrance --

Donald Mitchell Healey, 3 July 1898 - 13 January 1988


(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
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From: "Andy" <sneddon@xsmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2014 11:07:06 +0100
thread-index: Ac+WposxDrtjevs7Qq6ZslE2I2xYtw==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Axle
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

As part of my total restoration of my 1962 BT7 Tri-carb the rear axle has
been completely stripped.  All individual parts cleaned, refurbished and
painted etc ready for re-assembly.  Question is how far is it better /
easier to take the re-assembly with the axle  off the car as opposed to
having it located / secured in-place?

 

Andy
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2014 09:24:29 -0700
References: <CACPMnYp_fqTNdSA=34WRPRk-c0N=Q5NQktBdo7Rkj4EehXyp8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <1X2QLc-0DDinA0@fwd03.aul.t-online.de>
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 <Mk2l1o00p0NyJgq01k2mjE>
To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I do the opposite. I like to "glue" the gasket to the head instead of the
cover. Helps keep the oil there while adjust valves and such.

Wilko
Rick Wilkins

On Jul 2, 2014, at 6:41 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:

> Ira,
>
> Make sure the lip of the valve cover is flat.  I usually glue the gasket to
the valve cover and use some grease on the cylinder head side of the gasket.
That way I can remove the valve cover and not worry about the gasket sticking
to the head.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 07/02/2014 09:34 PM, I Erbs wrote:
>> Have aftermarket rear seal. After having a Healey specialist I know look
at
>> it he seems to feel oil leaking from my valve cover is being blown around
>> the engine bay. Ill replace the gasket this weekend and seal it with the
>> Right Stuff sealant. Clean  it and sed if things improve. Thanks all fir
>> your comments. Drove it to Summer School today. The kids and staff loved
it.
>>
>> I Erbs
>> IT Educator and Consultant
>> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
>> On Jul 2, 2014 6:26 PM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>>>  Ira
>>> Austin engines have to have a way for excess crankcase pressure to leave
>>> the engine.  On the 100 (four cylinder cars) there was a road draft tube
>>> the vented the lifter gallery cover.  The car moving forward caused the
air
>>> blowing by the pipe opening (below the engine) to suck the air out of the
>>> engine.  When the car was not moving it didnbt work so well. On the six
>>> cylinder cars they connected the lifter cover and the valve cover to the
>>> vent tube and then hooked into the air cleaner.  The vented crankcase
gases
>>> were pulled into the rear carb.  Having a filter on the end of the vent
>>> tube and not connecting to the air filter will cause the crankcase
pressure
>>> to build up. Granted the condition of the rocker shaft  and bushing add
to
>>> the oil issue if they are worn but the need for a vent with negative
>>> pressure (suction) is required. The original screw seal on the rear of
the
>>> crankshaft will not tolerate a lot of crankcase pressure and will leak
like
>>> a sieve. An aftermarket crank seal helps in that location but does
nothing
>>> for the real problem.  The other solution is the installation of a PCV
>>> valve in the intake manifold with the appropriate plumbing.
>>> Aloha
>>> Perry
>>>
>>> Sent from Windows Mail
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2014 11:50:56 -0700
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To: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
Cc: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I have the aluminum valve cover.

My point is not at all tomato/tomahto thing. Leaving the gasket on the head
allows me to run the engine with the cover off and spill less oil because the
gasket makes a pool for the oil.

On Jul 3, 2014, at 11:20 AM, Ray Juncal wrote:

> You sat tomato I say tomahto....what you really need is a nice cast finned
aluminum valve cover, very flat, very stiff, that you can crank down on with
some knurled knobs.  Keeps the valve noise down too.
> Ray :)
>
>
>
> On Thursday, July 3, 2014 11:00 AM, Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:
>
>
> I do the opposite. I like to "glue" the gasket to the head instead of the
> cover. Helps keep the oil there while adjust valves and such.
>
> Wilko
> Rick Wilkins
>
> On Jul 2, 2014, at 6:41 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>
> > Ira,
> >
> > Make sure the lip of the valve cover is flat.  I usually glue the gasket
to
> the valve cover and use some grease on the cylinder head side of the
gasket.
> That way I can remove the valve cover and not worry about the gasket
sticking
> to the head.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Bob Haskell
> > AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> > http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
> >
> > On 07/02/2014 09:34 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> >> Have aftermarket rear seal. After having a Healey specialist I know look
> at
> >> it he seems to feel oil leaking from my valve cover is being blown
around
> >> the engine bay. Ill replace the gasket this weekend and seal it with the
> >> Right Stuff sealant. Clean  it and sed if things improve. Thanks all fir
> >> your comments. Drove it to Summer School today. The kids and staff loved
> it.
> >>
> >> I Erbs
> >> IT Educator and Consultant
> >> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> >> On Jul 2, 2014 6:26 PM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>>  Ira
> >>> Austin engines have to have a way for excess crankcase pressure to
leave
> >>> the engine.  On the 100 (four cylinder cars) there was a road draft
tube
> >>> the vented the lifter gallery cover.  The car moving forward caused the
> air
> >>> blowing by the pipe opening (below the engine) to suck the air out of
the
> >>> engine.  When the car was not moving it didnbt work so well. On the six
> >>> cylinder cars they connected the lifter cover and the valve cover to
the
> >>> vent tube and then hooked into the air cleaner.  The vented crankcase
> gases
> >>> were pulled into the rear carb.  Having a filter on the end of the vent
> >>> tube and not connecting to the air filter will cause the crankcase
> pressure
> >>> to build up. Granted the condition of the rocker shaft  and bushing add
> to
> >>> the oil issue if they are worn but the need for a vent with negative
> >>> pressure (suction) is required. The original screw seal on the rear of
> the
> >>> crankshaft will not tolerate a lot of crankcase pressure and will leak
> like
> >>> a sieve. An aftermarket crank seal helps in that location but does
> nothing
> >>> for the real problem.  The other solution is the installation of a PCV
> >>> valve in the intake manifold with the appropriate plumbing.
> >>> Aloha
> >>> Perry
> >>>
> >>> Sent from Windows Mail
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:34 2018
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Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2014 20:16:30 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: List
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Listers, 

My recent request for info on where to get some Armacord for our BN2 elicited a huge response; with several of you offering to send some. I took Jonas up on his offer, but all the others were greatly appreciated. 

What a great car--and community--DMH created. 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
_______________________________________________
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Thu, 3 Jul 2014 19:15:10 -0700
Cc: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] oil vent filter
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

On Jul 3, 2014, at 6:36 PM, Wilko2 wrote:

> No worries. I was just pointing out that there was method to my madness. Not
damaging the gasket is also a good thing!
>
> Sure I've got an alloy cover, buy it's no hand-made custom FINNED cover!
>
> Cheers,
> Rick
>
> On Jul 3, 2014, at 2:07 PM, Ray Juncal wrote:
>
>> Rick
>>    No criticism intended.  If the extra depth to catch oil works for you
I'm good with it.  Many guys glue the gasket to the cover as it is out of the
way and less likely to be damaged while working on the top end.
>>     The real reason for my comment was a blatant and marginally humorous
plug for finned aluminum valve covers.  Ira may have expressed interest at one
time, it was aimed at him.
>> Ray
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Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holiday
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Status: RO

G'day

 

It's coming to the end of the 4th of July in the Great South Land, but it's
just beginning in the US.

 

So Happy 4th July to all US Austin-Healey owners on this list.

 

Best wishes

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
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Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2014 17:21:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healey Packard
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Status: RO

I ran across some Nash Healey trivia today in the August 2014 issue of Hemmings Classic Car magazine.
The director of styling at Nash American Motors from 1950 to 1961 was Edmund Anderson. He drove a Nash Healey with a Packard V8 in it. He apparently terrorized the Detroit police with it. One time he expected the factory security gate personel to stop the cops from chasing him, but they didn't and they caught him in the executive garage. He tried to have the security folks fired.
Is this car still around?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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 more information
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nash Healey Packard
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Status: RO

Hi Ken, There were a number of Nash Healeys converted to V8 by both Nash 
Dealers and owners, James Moore and Carl Chakmakian both of whom worked 
for Nash did V8 conversions on their Nash Healeys, but using the AMC V8. 
It is possible it was one of these cars. If it isn't I would be 
interested to know about it also. Leonard McGrady has a couple of V8 
powered cars as well, but I don't know their history.
I have the period articles on 3 of the V8 conversions on my Nash Healey 
website, at the link below. I have also just added a big collection of 
magazines from the Nash Healey car clubs that operated in the past.
Regards
Larry Varley
BN1
BT7
54 Nash Healey Lemans Coupe V8
54 Nash Healey Lemans Coupe
http://www.acmefluid.com.au/nash/docs.html
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Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2014 06:30:18 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nash Healey Packard
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Status: RO

More likely it was a Packard straight eight as Packard's from that era all
were equipped with "straight" block configurations, not a "V" block.

Gil
61 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
goldengt@cal.net
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 8:21 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healey Packard

I ran across some Nash Healey trivia today in the August 2014 issue of
Hemmings Classic Car magazine.
The director of styling at Nash American Motors from 1950 to 1961 was Edmund
Anderson. He drove a Nash Healey with a Packard V8 in it. He apparently
terrorized the Detroit police with it. One time he expected the factory
security gate personel to stop the cops from chasing him, but they didn't
and they caught him in the executive garage. He tried to have the security
folks fired.
Is this car still around?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8


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From: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: "LIST, HEALEY" <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: what is the term " turn 1 flat" ?
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Subject: [Healeys] what is the term " turn 1 flat"  ?
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Status: RO

Hello,
When adjusting carbs...............what does it mean by turn 1 flat?B B  is it
actuallyB  1/2 turn of the screw you are adjusting or one complete rotation?
B 
sorry for the stupid question
B 
Mitch
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To: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>, "LIST, HEALEY"
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 07:43:18 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] what is the term " turn 1 flat"  ?
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Status: RO

Actually not at all stupid Mitch.
"One flat" refers to one sixth of a turn of a hex headed screw. Not too
obvious when applied to something with a round head!!!
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Mitch" <dayton21@comcast.net>
Sent: b7/b5/b2014 7:38 AM
To: "LIST, HEALEY" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] what is the term " turn 1 flat"  ?

Hello,
When adjusting carbs...............what does it mean by turn 1 flat?B B  is
it
actuallyB  1/2 turn of the screw you are adjusting or one complete rotation?
B
sorry for the stupid question
B
Mitch
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 07:51:28 -0400
To: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
Cc: "LIST, HEALEY" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] what is the term " turn 1 flat" ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Mitch--

I don't know what type of carbs your car has but on earlier Healeys the
mixture was adjusted by dropping or raising the jet and this was performed
by turning the big adjusting nut at the bottom of the carb either clockwise
or counterclockwise.  The term "flat" refers to a face of the nut and "one
flat" means 1/6th of a full rotation.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Sat, Jul 5, 2014 at 7:37 AM, Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net> wrote:

> Hello,
> When adjusting carbs...............what does it mean by turn 1 flat?B B
>  is it
> actuallyB  1/2 turn of the screw you are adjusting or one complete
> rotation?
> B
> sorry for the stupid question
> B
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2014 14:02:35 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <2087622361.23686870.1404560266552.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] what is the term " turn 1 flat"  ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Turn one flat is turn 360:6 flats=60 degrees. Flat is one side of the 
nut/bolt. AF= Across Flats is an indication of a certain spanner size.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Mitch schreef op 5-7-2014 13:37:
> Hello,
> When adjusting carbs...............what does it mean by turn 1 flat?B B  is it
> actuallyB  1/2 turn of the screw you are adjusting or one complete rotation?
> B
> sorry for the stupid question
> B
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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To: "'Gil Rockwell'" <gilrockwell@verizon.net>, <goldengt@cal.net>,
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nash Healey Packard
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

G'day

The Packard straight-eight is far longer than the Nash straight-six and
simply won't fit in the engine bay of a Nash-Healey. Packard introduced its
first 352ci or 5.8 litre V8 powered car in 1955 to match its new bodystyling
along with torsion bar front and rear suspension which also featured
electric self- levelling at the rear.

The interesting piece of history is that Nash (AMC/Rambler) started buying
Packard V8s as early as 1954 before the engine was used by Packard. Two
years later Nash had their own V8 engine.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gil
Rockwell
Sent: Saturday, 5 July 2014 8:30 PM
To: goldengt@cal.net; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nash Healey Packard

More likely it was a Packard straight eight as Packard's from that era all
were equipped with "straight" block configurations, not a "V" block.

Gil
61 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
goldengt@cal.net
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 8:21 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healey Packard

I ran across some Nash Healey trivia today in the August 2014 issue of
Hemmings Classic Car magazine.
The director of styling at Nash American Motors from 1950 to 1961 was Edmund
Anderson. He drove a Nash Healey with a Packard V8 in it. He apparently
terrorized the Detroit police with it. One time he expected the factory
security gate personel to stop the cops from chasing him, but they didn't
and they caught him in the executive garage. He tried to have the security
folks fired.
Is this car still around?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8


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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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From: "Gil Rockwell" <gilrockwell@verizon.net>
To: "'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,
 <goldengt@cal.net>, "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <434153834.2294.1404519473216.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
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Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2014 12:11:48 -0400
Thread-index: AQIiR5nWe05i+uvV3U3/acmQCOHhOAJZqB2lAscCfAQCoEuq0pquP93A
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nash Healey Packard
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Good point, I sort of suspected the straight 8 would be difficult if not
impossible to fit.  My dad had a 52 Packard with the straight 8 and it
seemed really long to me as a child interested in cars at a young age.  The
hood seemed to stretch to the horizon from the front seat.  A V8 would even
be a tight fit in a Nash Healey.

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn [mailto:p_cquinn@tpg.com.au] 
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2014 8:47 AM
To: 'Gil Rockwell'; goldengt@cal.net; 'healeys'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Nash Healey Packard

G'day

The Packard straight-eight is far longer than the Nash straight-six and
simply won't fit in the engine bay of a Nash-Healey. Packard introduced its
first 352ci or 5.8 litre V8 powered car in 1955 to match its new bodystyling
along with torsion bar front and rear suspension which also featured
electric self- levelling at the rear.

The interesting piece of history is that Nash (AMC/Rambler) started buying
Packard V8s as early as 1954 before the engine was used by Packard. Two
years later Nash had their own V8 engine.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gil
Rockwell
Sent: Saturday, 5 July 2014 8:30 PM
To: goldengt@cal.net; 'healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nash Healey Packard

More likely it was a Packard straight eight as Packard's from that era all
were equipped with "straight" block configurations, not a "V" block.

Gil
61 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
goldengt@cal.net
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 8:21 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healey Packard

I ran across some Nash Healey trivia today in the August 2014 issue of
Hemmings Classic Car magazine.
The director of styling at Nash American Motors from 1950 to 1961 was Edmund
Anderson. He drove a Nash Healey with a Packard V8 in it. He apparently
terrorized the Detroit police with it. One time he expected the factory
security gate personel to stop the cops from chasing him, but they didn't
and they caught him in the executive garage. He tried to have the security
folks fired.
Is this car still around?
Ken Freese
65 BJ8


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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 10:41:03 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] How could this be?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Was ready complaints about JiffyLube and came across this complaint. How
could the "wrong" oil destroy an engine?

[2102] *April in Hurst, TX  Wrong Oil Destroys Engine*
My wife recently took her Dodge Charger to Jiffy Lube in Hurst TX for an
oil change.  The oil was changed and my wife went on her way.  Later in the
day she double checked her receipt and noted the wrong oil was indicated.
She took the car back immediately and Jiffy Lube admitted it was the wrong
oil and agreed to change it.  Immediately upon start up by the tech
performing the oil change, the engine sounded horrible and wouldn't
continue to idle.  My wife called me and I went to the shop.  I asked them
to leave the car alone and not try further to get it to run.  I didn't need
to hear it.  The manager and I went to the office to discuss next steps.
During our discussion I hear them out in the shop trying to start the
engine again.  To make a long story short, the car was towed to the dealer
and disassembled.  It's going to cost 10k to replace it (it's destroyed)
and Jiffy Lubes insurance company Zurich is denying any claim for damages.
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
bus.b
b FranC'oise Sagan
<https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 11:21:33 -0700
References: <CACPMnYrAztVKHDfmcr0FG3EFFOoiE-2U+9vC3WMGDuPOqCh2eg@mail.gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How could this be?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I can think of a couple of ways. Too thick an oil won't flow through the
little passages in the head and could starve the cams and lifters.
On a longer term basis the wrong quality oil can easily destroy an engine. Use
SA oil in an engine that requires SM oil your engine won't be happy.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 5, 2014, at 10:41, I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Was ready complaints about JiffyLube and came across this complaint. How
> could the "wrong" oil destroy an engine?
>
> [2102] *April in Hurst, TX  Wrong Oil Destroys Engine*
> My wife recently took her Dodge Charger to Jiffy Lube in Hurst TX for an
> oil change.  The oil was changed and my wife went on her way.  Later in the
> day she double checked her receipt and noted the wrong oil was indicated.
> She took the car back immediately and Jiffy Lube admitted it was the wrong
> oil and agreed to change it.  Immediately upon start up by the tech
> performing the oil change, the engine sounded horrible and wouldn't
> continue to idle.  My wife called me and I went to the shop.  I asked them
> to leave the car alone and not try further to get it to run.  I didn't need
> to hear it.  The manager and I went to the office to discuss next steps.
> During our discussion I hear them out in the shop trying to start the
> engine again.  To make a long story short, the car was towed to the dealer
> and disassembled.  It's going to cost 10k to replace it (it's destroyed)
> and Jiffy Lubes insurance company Zurich is denying any claim for damages.
> Ira Erbs
> IT Teacher
> and Consultant
> Portland, OR
>
> bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
> bus.b
> b FranC'oise Sagan
> <https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>, "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYrAztVKHDfmcr0FG3EFFOoiE-2U+9vC3WMGDuPOqCh2eg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 13:35:06 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How could this be?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

"Later in the day she double checked her receipt and noted the wrong oil was 
indicated."

truly incredible story, the wife a) looked at the receipt from the shop, and 
b) knew the wrong oil had been used?

Sorry couldn't help it, and my wife is a wonderful gal who helps me bleed 
brakes and such, but I am quite sure she has no clue as to what the correct 
oil is for her Honda.

Can't imagine how "the wrong motor oil" could ruin an engine in such a short 
time, it might increase wear over time, only possible theory I can think of 
that might make it true (I still don't think it is), modern engines are 
designed to run on very thin oil, as thin as 0w-20, could a heavyweight oil 
such as a 20w-50 be so thick as to not penetrate or flow into some of the 
tight clearances, resulting in oil starvation?

Greg Lemon
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To: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 14:38:25 -0400
References: <CACPMnYrAztVKHDfmcr0FG3EFFOoiE-2U+9vC3WMGDuPOqCh2eg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How could this be?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I think I would like to hear the other side of that story!!!
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>
Sent: b7/b5/b2014 1:41 PM
To: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] How could this be?

Was ready complaints about JiffyLube and came across this complaint. How
could the "wrong" oil destroy an engine?

[2102] *April in Hurst, TX  Wrong Oil Destroys Engine*
My wife recently took her Dodge Charger to Jiffy Lube in Hurst TX for an
oil change.  The oil was changed and my wife went on her way.  Later in the
day she double checked her receipt and noted the wrong oil was indicated.
She took the car back immediately and Jiffy Lube admitted it was the wrong
oil and agreed to change it.  Immediately upon start up by the tech
performing the oil change, the engine sounded horrible and wouldn't
continue to idle.  My wife called me and I went to the shop.  I asked them
to leave the car alone and not try further to get it to run.  I didn't need
to hear it.  The manager and I went to the office to discuss next steps.
During our discussion I hear them out in the shop trying to start the
engine again.  To make a long story short, the car was towed to the dealer
and disassembled.  It's going to cost 10k to replace it (it's destroyed)
and Jiffy Lubes insurance company Zurich is denying any claim for damages.
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
bus.b
b FranC'oise Sagan
<https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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References: <CACPMnYrAztVKHDfmcr0FG3EFFOoiE-2U+9vC3WMGDuPOqCh2eg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CF9A14E90A7A4DC194C32A67732228B6@livingroompc>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 11:56:27 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Greg Lemon <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How could this be?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Seemed far fetched to me that an engine could be ruined so quickly too.
That's why I asked....

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
On Jul 5, 2014 11:35 AM, "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:

> "Later in the day she double checked her receipt and noted the wrong oil
> was indicated."
>
> truly incredible story, the wife a) looked at the receipt from the shop,
> and b) knew the wrong oil had been used?
>
> Sorry couldn't help it, and my wife is a wonderful gal who helps me bleed
> brakes and such, but I am quite sure she has no clue as to what the correct
> oil is for her Honda.
>
> Can't imagine how "the wrong motor oil" could ruin an engine in such a
> short time, it might increase wear over time, only possible theory I can
> think of that might make it true (I still don't think it is), modern
> engines are designed to run on very thin oil, as thin as 0w-20, could a
> heavyweight oil such as a 20w-50 be so thick as to not penetrate or flow
> into some of the tight clearances, resulting in oil starvation?
>
> Greg Lemon
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 12:02:05 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Moma
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Just add my complaints about moma rebuilding gauges. They did my gauges 38
years ago and my gas gauge just failed. I'll have send it back and have
them fix it all over again.

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 12:13:44 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Oil leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Preliminary results indicate that if you actually tighten the valve cover
nuts. You can quite substantialy cut down on oil spraying around the
engine. I'll need drive her a bit more to see if this unorthodox approach
actually works. Stay tuned.

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 12:24:06 -0700
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Ira
   You probably already know that if you tighten the tin cover too much
you deform it at the hold down bosses and wind up not putting any more
pressure on the gasket face where you want it.
Ray



On Saturday, July 5,
2014 12:14 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
 


Preliminary results
indicate that if you actually tighten the valve cover
nuts. You can quite
substantialy cut down on oil spraying around the
engine. I'll need drive her a
bit more to see if this unorthodox approach
actually works. Stay tuned.

I
Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may
not be what I meant to send.
$12.75
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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Date: Sat, 05 Jul 2014 14:55:52 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
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To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil leak
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Status: RO

<<  On 7/5/2014 2:13 PM, I Erbs wrote:
> Preliminary results indicate that if you actually tighten the valve cover nuts.  >>

LMAO, Ira ! ! ! !

THANK YOU, I needed that (between Pain Pills actually working 'spells').

Ed
" Just Brits "

PS:  WHEN you gonna send me some PICs of your car ? ? ?
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYrAztVKHDfmcr0FG3EFFOoiE-2U+9vC3WMGDuPOqCh2eg@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] How could this be?
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Status: RO

I don't know -- googled Jiffy Lube Complaints and found hundreds of them.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2014 2:38 PM
To: I Erbs; Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How could this be?

I think I would like to hear the other side of that story!!!
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3@gmail.com>
Sent: b
7/b
5/b
2014 1:41 PM
To: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] How could this be?

Was ready complaints about JiffyLube and came across this complaint. How
could the "wrong" oil destroy an engine?

[2102] *April in Hurst, TX  Wrong Oil Destroys Engine* My wife recently took
her Dodge Charger to Jiffy Lube in Hurst TX for an oil change.  The oil was
changed and my wife went on her way.  Later in the day she double checked
her receipt and noted the wrong oil was indicated.
She took the car back immediately and Jiffy Lube admitted it was the wrong
oil and agreed to change it.  Immediately upon start up by the tech
performing the oil change, the engine sounded horrible and wouldn't continue
to idle.  My wife called me and I went to the shop.  I asked them to leave
the car alone and not try further to get it to run.  I didn't need to hear
it.  The manager and I went to the office to discuss next steps.
During our discussion I hear them out in the shop trying to start the engine
again.  To make a long story short, the car was towed to the dealer and
disassembled.  It's going to cost 10k to replace it (it's destroyed) and
Jiffy Lubes insurance company Zurich is denying any claim for damages.
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR

bMoney may not buy happiness, but I'd rather cry in a Jaguar than on a
bus.b b FranC'oise Sagan
<https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/1357577.Fran_oise_Sagan>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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 <CACPMnYoxTkaZ1X-UxCf3QZToVPfeJBE3GUKEpdu0meTYAOEMZA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 12:58:58 -0700
From: 1 2 <healeydohdahman@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How could this be?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Would 90wt rear end oil do that?


On Sat, Jul 5, 2014 at 11:56 AM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

> Seemed far fetched to me that an engine could be ruined so quickly too.
> That's why I asked....
>
> I Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> On Jul 5, 2014 11:35 AM, "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:
>
> > "Later in the day she double checked her receipt and noted the wrong oil
> > was indicated."
> >
> > truly incredible story, the wife a) looked at the receipt from the shop,
> > and b) knew the wrong oil had been used?
> >
> > Sorry couldn't help it, and my wife is a wonderful gal who helps me bleed
> > brakes and such, but I am quite sure she has no clue as to what the
> correct
> > oil is for her Honda.
> >
> > Can't imagine how "the wrong motor oil" could ruin an engine in such a
> > short time, it might increase wear over time, only possible theory I can
> > think of that might make it true (I still don't think it is), modern
> > engines are designed to run on very thin oil, as thin as 0w-20, could a
> > heavyweight oil such as a 20w-50 be so thick as to not penetrate or flow
> > into some of the tight clearances, resulting in oil starvation?
> >
> > Greg Lemon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydohdahman@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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References: <CACPMnYo8DY2bUQ9kqyxKv4-SaQdr5kGtUUy5fRng8ye69L3-7Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <1404588246.19579.YahooMailNeo@web124506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 13:27:19 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil leak
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I think that's why it was loose. :(
Ray, I'm saving up for a valve cover

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
On Jul 5, 2014 12:24 PM, "Ray Juncal" <healeyray@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Ira
>    You probably already know that if you tighten the tin cover too much
> you deform it at the hold down bosses and wind up not putting any more
> pressure on the gasket face where you want it.
> Ray
>
>
>   On Saturday, July 5, 2014 12:14 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Preliminary results indicate that if you actually tighten the valve cover
> nuts. You can quite substantialy cut down on oil spraying around the
> engine. I'll need drive her a bit more to see if this unorthodox approach
> actually works. Stay tuned.
>
> I Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 16:50:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] How could this be ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

<<  I think I would like to hear the other side of that story!!!  >>

That's for sure.  And to see if any shop employees have taken a sudden leave
of absence.    :-)

Our local Mr.Lube, staffed by teenagers, has a row of  fluid hoses with gas
pump type handles, easy to mix up while they're yelling to each other about,
appropriately, the latest "Walking Dead" video game.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 11:27:24 -1000
From: Kimo Briske <kimobriske@gmail.com>
To: 1 2 <healeydohdahman@gmail.com>, Ahealey help
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How could this be?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Could they have put transmission fluid in the engine ?


On Sat, Jul 5, 2014 at 9:58 AM, 1 2 <healeydohdahman@gmail.com> wrote:

> Would 90wt rear end oil do that?
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 5, 2014 at 11:56 AM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Seemed far fetched to me that an engine could be ruined so quickly too.
> > That's why I asked....
> >
> > I Erbs
> > IT Educator and Consultant
> > sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> > On Jul 5, 2014 11:35 AM, "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> > > "Later in the day she double checked her receipt and noted the wrong
> oil
> > > was indicated."
> > >
> > > truly incredible story, the wife a) looked at the receipt from the
> shop,
> > > and b) knew the wrong oil had been used?
> > >
> > > Sorry couldn't help it, and my wife is a wonderful gal who helps me
> bleed
> > > brakes and such, but I am quite sure she has no clue as to what the
> > correct
> > > oil is for her Honda.
> > >
> > > Can't imagine how "the wrong motor oil" could ruin an engine in such a
> > > short time, it might increase wear over time, only possible theory I
> can
> > > think of that might make it true (I still don't think it is), modern
> > > engines are designed to run on very thin oil, as thin as 0w-20, could a
> > > heavyweight oil such as a 20w-50 be so thick as to not penetrate or
> flow
> > > into some of the tight clearances, resulting in oil starvation?
> > >
> > > Greg Lemon
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydohdahman@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kimobriske@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Greg Lemon'" <glemon@neb.rr.com>, "'I Erbs'" <eyera3@gmail.com>,
 "'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYrAztVKHDfmcr0FG3EFFOoiE-2U+9vC3WMGDuPOqCh2eg@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 07:54:11 +1000
Content-language: en-au
Thread-index: AQHEAHa1U4xBYVSoEMB/YuGULX7SygID0xRzm5kXlaA=
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How could this be?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

G'day

Helps you bleed brakes??????

A woman who knows how the bleeding of brakes works? Never met one! Something
to do with the up and down action!

My wife is my best friend, but I always need to call a bloke to hep me.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg
Lemon
Sent: Sunday, 6 July 2014 4:35 AM
To: I Erbs; Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How could this be?

"Later in the day she double checked her receipt and noted the wrong oil was
indicated."

truly incredible story, the wife a) looked at the receipt from the shop, and
b) knew the wrong oil had been used?

Sorry couldn't help it, and my wife is a wonderful gal who helps me bleed
brakes and such, but I am quite sure she has no clue as to what the correct
oil is for her Honda.

Can't imagine how "the wrong motor oil" could ruin an engine in such a short
time, it might increase wear over time, only possible theory I can think of
that might make it true (I still don't think it is), modern engines are
designed to run on very thin oil, as thin as 0w-20, could a heavyweight oil
such as a 20w-50 be so thick as to not penetrate or flow into some of the
tight clearances, resulting in oil starvation?

Greg Lemon
$12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:35 2018
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 18:18:59 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: "hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk" <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>,  Healeys
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Scotland to Italy in 100!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Sounds like fun.  I've been to that museum while driving my BJ8 across Europe.  I had a fine time--hope yours keeps going as well as it seems to have.

tom
---- "hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk" <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk> wrote: 

=============
Hi all,

I recently had email correspondence with Michael Orritt and happened
to mention a planned trip to Italy in the 100. He asked that I et the list
know what we are doing. Well, we left our home in Scotland yesterday morning.
We motored over the Cairn o Mount pass and then onto the A 90 down to
Edinburgh.  We had a real old fashioned run down the A697 crossing the border
into England at Coldstream. A great driving road with very little traffic.  We
arrived in Wetherby Yorkshire for our first overnight at around 6 00 pm.
Around 300 miles at 27 to the (uk) gallon. Today we carried on down the A 1
and round the M25 for an overnight in Maidstone. Tomorrow the ferry from Dover
to Calais and on down to Toul. No problems so far. Keep fingers crossed for
us. Our goal is Cogne in the Val d'aosta on Saturday. Oh yes how could I
forget! We are hoping to call into the Schlumff Museum in Mulhouse on the way
down. Lots of Bugattis I believe. 

Regards

Mike B

Sent from Yahoo Mail on
Android
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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To: "LIST, HEALEY" <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] what is the term " turn 1 flat"  ?
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Status: RO

And all these years I've had it wrong. I thought it meant avoiding cleaning up the oil stains
by moving to a new apartment.

mjb.
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 17:36:40 -0700
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Subject: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
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Status: RO

Tuned out the ether had leaked out.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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To: john <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>, 'Healey List'
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 21:25:43 -0400
References: <000a01cf98b2$5b4d58b0$11e80a10$@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
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Status: RO

So the ether leaked into the ether.....hmmmmmm.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: b7/b5/b2014 8:36 PM
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved

Tuned out the ether had leaked out.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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To: michael.salter@gmail.com
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 21:33:07 -0400
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
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Status: RO

ether assumption is correct!!

 
On Sat, 5 Jul 2014 21:25:43 -0400 Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
writes:
> So the ether leaked into the ether.....hmmmmmm.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> Sent: b7/b5/b2014 8:36 PM
> To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
> 
> Tuned out the ether had leaked out.
> 
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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> 
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> 
 

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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To: Peter Svilans <peter.svilans@rogers.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 21:55:09 -0400
References: <16BCBBC3F6BD4065850C8FD546551DD4@9535DEE118EC44B>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How could this be ?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

I'm thinking that premixed coolant may cause problems p


-----Original Message-----
From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
Sent: b7/b5/b2014 4:50 PM
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] How could this be ?

<<  I think I would like to hear the other side of that story!!!  >>

That's for sure.  And to see if any shop employees have taken a sudden leave
of absence.    :-)

Our local Mr.Lube, staffed by teenagers, has a row of  fluid hoses with gas
pump type handles, easy to mix up while they're yelling to each other about,
appropriately, the latest "Walking Dead" video game.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Michael'" <michael.salter@gmail.com>
References: <AABK5TK8DAKR5YGS@smtpout04.dca.untd.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 19:13:38 -0700
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQMULeu2WkBVQO8O+nWbIh39zYRawpkJIyLw
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

The tech at Palo Alto Speedometer told me the bulb needs to have the correct
ether fill level; not too much or too little. The volume can vary depending
on the temperature when filled. When the gauge was repaired they noticed the
bulb may have had a "spot" of solder on it that may have damaged the bulb
when it was installed in the block.

John

-----Original Message-----
From: dwflagg@juno.com [mailto:dwflagg@juno.com] 
Sent: Saturday, July 5, 2014 6:33 PM
To: michael.salter@gmail.com
Cc: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved

ether assumption is correct!!
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 03:08:48 +0000
 FILETIME=[9B968300:01CF98C7]
Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler  -
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Status: RO

It's been two years today that we lost a dear List contributor and friend to
many of us.



Jean
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 20:55:52 -0700
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>,
 "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler  -
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Here's to Rich, friend and helper to all who love Healeys and model trains.
Ray



On Saturday, July 5, 2014 8:09 PM, Jean Caron
<vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com> wrote:
 


It's been two years
today that we lost a dear List contributor and friend to
many of us.



Jean
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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References: <BLU173-W32A919D3E5B2CCF72301CAD1020@phx.gbl>
Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 21:07:12 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler -
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

He is greatly missed by me. I so wanted to continue to send him photo
updates of my project and celebrate my first drive back on the road with
him. Like many I owe him a lot for his help and encouragement.

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
On Jul 5, 2014 8:08 PM, "Jean Caron" <
vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com> wrote:

> It's been two years today that we lost a dear List contributor and friend
> to
> many of us.
>
>
>
> Jean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 14:34:12 +1000
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <BLU173-W32A919D3E5B2CCF72301CAD1020@phx.gbl>
 <1404618952.46692.YahooMailNeo@web124503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
 more information
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler  -
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Yes it is timely to remember Rich, one of the great people you meet in 
the classic car movement, always ready to offer well thought out advise, 
and a font of knowledge. A loss to the movement. And while this may be a 
more down under philosophy in regards to upgrades, In Riches words, the 
3 speed BN1 is far better than the BN2 :))
Cheers Guys
Larry Varley

On 6/07/2014 1:55 PM, Ray Juncal wrote:
> Here's to Rich, friend and helper to all who love Healeys and model trains.
> Ray
>
>
>
> On Saturday, July 5, 2014 8:09 PM, Jean Caron
> <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com> wrote:
>   
>
>
> It's been two years
> today that we lost a dear List contributor and friend to
> many of us.
>
>
>
> Jean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray@yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley@cosmos.net.au
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7804 - Release Date: 07/05/14
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2014 22:37:58 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Any idea on what it would cost to get a fuel gauge rebuilt? I have an offer
of one nearby, but we are unsure of its value

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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References: <BLU173-W32A919D3E5B2CCF72301CAD1020@phx.gbl>
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 <53B8D1C4.1040701@cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 08:23:30 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "100healey ." <varley@cosmos.net.au>
Cc: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler -
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

RIP old friend.


On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 5:34 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> Yes it is timely to remember Rich, one of the great people you meet in the
> classic car movement, always ready to offer well thought out advise, and a
> font of knowledge. A loss to the movement. And while this may be a more
> down under philosophy in regards to upgrades, In Riches words, the 3 speed
> BN1 is far better than the BN2 :))
> Cheers Guys
> Larry Varley
>
> On 6/07/2014 1:55 PM, Ray Juncal wrote:
>
>> Here's to Rich, friend and helper to all who love Healeys and model
>> trains.
>> Ray
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, July 5, 2014 8:09 PM, Jean Caron
>>
>> <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> It's been two years
>> today that we lost a dear List contributor and friend to
>> many of us.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jean
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net
>> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive:
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray@yahoo.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/varley@cosmos.net.au
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7804 - Release Date: 07/05/14
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 17:57:09 +1000
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
 more information
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I 
would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed by 
Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who never 
made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to keep 
producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad design. 
The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the engine? Oh 
dear. The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really 
added no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy 
engine and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the 
balance of the car? Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but 
the sixes at their best are really ponderous in the steering department 
relative to the BN1, which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so 
far as to use an alloy block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend 
handling car and restore the weight balance. BMC basically self 
destructed, while the rest of the world moved forward, what a shame.
Cheers
Larry Varley
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 10:10:08 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <AABK5TK8DAKR5YGS@smtpout04.dca.untd.com>
 <001c01cf98bf$e72ee760$b58cb620$@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

The amount of ether in the bulb is not very critical. Any fluid has a 
specified vapour pressure at a specified temperature. This is what the 
gauge registers, it is a manometer that translates pressure to 
temperature on the scale.
As vapour pressure is independent from volume the amount of fluid does 
not matter, as long as the bulb and capillary is not completely filled 
up with fluid or if there is no fluid but just vapour.
Apparently there are several sorts of ether I was told by a chemist. He 
supplied me with some that is normally used in automotive gauges which I 
used for repairing a gauge.
Kees Oudesluijs


john schreef op 6-7-2014 4:13:
> The tech at Palo Alto Speedometer told me the bulb needs to have the correct
> ether fill level; not too much or too little. The volume can vary depending
> on the temperature when filled. When the gauge was repaired they noticed the
> bulb may have had a "spot" of solder on it that may have damaged the bulb
> when it was installed in the block.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dwflagg@juno.com [mailto:dwflagg@juno.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 5, 2014 6:33 PM
> To: michael.salter@gmail.com
> Cc: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
>
> ether assumption is correct!!
> _______________________________________________
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> -----
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> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7803 - datum van uitgifte: 07/05/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 10:34:27 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CACPMnYrZMRA5T267DF2axNdHTthjcGZj0u_3wvp013SiDZ_b3A@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Are you sure the gauge is at fault? Did you try with a power supply from 
0V-.. and got any response? If it did show some response look elsewhere 
for the fault.
You could try to buy (e.g. ebay.co.uk) a Smiths or Jaeger UK gauge of 
the same type but with a corroded/damaged/incorrect for the Healey face 
and transplant your existing gauge face to the one acquired. They are 
very simple to dismantle and put together again. Leave the internals 
undisturbed, just remove the bezel by slightly lifting the tabs and then 
turning the bezel until the tabs line up with the slots in the body and 
the bezel and glass will lift of, then remove the dial face taking great 
care not to bend the needle.
I may perhaps have an old gauge that might be of use. You can have it 
for the shipping costs. If you send me some pictures of the gauge (face, 
rear of body, internals if possible) and especially the number on the 
dial I can have a look in my famous boxes of old junk.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

I Erbs schreef op 6-7-2014 7:37:
> Any idea on what it would cost to get a fuel gauge rebuilt? I have an offer
> of one nearby, but we are unsure of its value
>
> I Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7803 - datum van uitgifte: 07/05/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 11:11:37 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <53B90155.6060700@cosmos.net.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

You just opened a can of worms, splendid.
Although I think that the later 6-cilinder AH's looked better than the 
BN1, I always disliked that heavy lump of cast iron under the bonnet. 
What about a 6 in line BMW engine. Plenty of those around. I have seen 
some very neat conversions using that engine, especially in a Jensen 
541S which originally had a 4 liter 6 in line Austin engine. They had to 
fit much weaker front springs and alter the shocks but it resulted in a 
far better road behaviour and, not unimportant, the steering effort 
became much more manageable and pleasant.There should be a few Japs as 
well that can supply enough 6 in line grunt. I am not sure if 
Datsun/Nissan supplied any lightweight/aluminium 6 in line engines but 
if so it would keep it a bit in the family as Datsun more or less 
started life producing and developing/improving Austin products. I have 
heard that even the early (and perhaps later) in line sixes from 
Datsun/Nissan will match up with an Austin gearbox.
Do not forget the lightweight Buick derived Rover V-8 which should fit 
without to much bother and also has some relation to Austin.
There are probably some Australian engines as well that are suitable but 
I do not know anything of those.
Not only did BMC self destruct, the entire UK car industry did. Only 
some assembly from foreign cars left: e.g. Nissan and Mini (BMW) plus 
some niche manufacturers mostly in in foreign ownership, e.g. Lotus, 
Rolls Royce, Morgan
Kees Oudesluijs


Larry Varley schreef op 6-7-2014 9:57:
> I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I 
> would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed 
> by Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who 
> never made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to 
> keep producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad 
> design. The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the 
> engine? Oh dear. The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox 
> that really added no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that 
> horribly heavy engine and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and 
> just ruin the balance of the car? Ok after that they added the 12 port 
> head to it, but the sixes at their best are really ponderous in the 
> steering department relative to the BN1, which is a nibble well 
> balance car. I'm going so far as to use an alloy block in my BT7 to 
> turn it back into a descend handling car and restore the weight 
> balance. BMC basically self destructed, while the rest of the world 
> moved forward, what a shame.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7805 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 07/06/14
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 19:29:01 +1000
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <53B90155.6060700@cosmos.net.au>
  <53B912C9.6020309@chello.nl>
 more information
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I agree, Kees, it took the Japanese manufacturers to step in to produce 
a decent gearbox, and while they did copy some good designs, they did 
pick the right ones to copy. Why didn't BMC roll out the alloy rally 
block into production? It would certainly have improved the 6 cylinder cars!
Cheers
Larry Varley
On 6/07/2014 7:11 PM, Oudesluys wrote:
> You just opened a can of worms, splendid.
> Although I think that the later 6-cilinder AH's looked better than the 
> BN1, I always disliked that heavy lump of cast iron under the bonnet. 
> What about a 6 in line BMW engine. Plenty of those around. I have seen 
> some very neat conversions using that engine, especially in a Jensen 
> 541S which originally had a 4 liter 6 in line Austin engine. They had 
> to fit much weaker front springs and alter the shocks but it resulted 
> in a far better road behaviour and, not unimportant, the steering 
> effort became much more manageable and pleasant.There should be a few 
> Japs as well that can supply enough 6 in line grunt. I am not sure if 
> Datsun/Nissan supplied any lightweight/aluminium 6 in line engines but 
> if so it would keep it a bit in the family as Datsun more or less 
> started life producing and developing/improving Austin products. I 
> have heard that even the early (and perhaps later) in line sixes from 
> Datsun/Nissan will match up with an Austin gearbox.
> Do not forget the lightweight Buick derived Rover V-8 which should fit 
> without to much bother and also has some relation to Austin.
> There are probably some Australian engines as well that are suitable 
> but I do not know anything of those.
> Not only did BMC self destruct, the entire UK car industry did. Only 
> some assembly from foreign cars left: e.g. Nissan and Mini (BMW) plus 
> some niche manufacturers mostly in in foreign ownership, e.g. Lotus, 
> Rolls Royce, Morgan
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Larry Varley schreef op 6-7-2014 9:57:
>> I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I 
>> would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed 
>> by Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who 
>> never made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to 
>> keep producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad 
>> design. The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the 
>> engine? Oh dear. The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox 
>> that really added no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that 
>> horribly heavy engine and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, 
>> and just ruin the balance of the car? Ok after that they added the 12 
>> port head to it, but the sixes at their best are really ponderous in 
>> the steering department relative to the BN1, which is a nibble well 
>> balance car. I'm going so far as to use an alloy block in my BT7 to 
>> turn it back into a descend handling car and restore the weight 
>> balance. BMC basically self destructed, while the rest of the world 
>> moved forward, what a shame.
>> Cheers
>> Larry Varley
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7805 - datum van uitgifte: 
>> 07/06/14
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley@cosmos.net.au
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7805 - Release Date: 07/06/14
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 10:08:32 +0000 (UTC)
From: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: "LIST, HEALEY" <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Rich
Thread-Index: f2VFYTogrmW43itQW4Jmczpn/m2wMA==
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rich
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Status: RO

Rich was a wealth of info. on Healeys............................Always
willing to answer questions and help................I was lucky to have spoken
with him in person a few times and countless times through
email...............his passing was a great loss to the Healey community
....RIP
B 
Mitch
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 03:43:58 -0700
From: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: varley@cosmos.net.au, "healeys@autox.team.net"
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

A two seater 100-6 with a BJ8 engine is what they should have made. B It would be a nice balance in my opinion for whatever that is worth.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2 with the heavy transmission.
60 AN5

<div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> </div><div>Date:07/06/2014  00:57  (GMT-08:00) </div><div>To: healeys@autox.team.net </div><div>Subject: [Healeys] Healeys </div><div>
</div>I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I 
would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed by 
Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who never 
made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to keep 
producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad design. 
The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the engine? Oh 
dear. The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really 
added no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy 
engine and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the 
balance of the car? Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but 
the sixes at their best are really ponderous in the steering department 
relative to the BN1, which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so 
far as to use an alloy block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend 
handling car and restore the weight balance. BMC basically self 
destructed, while the rest of the world moved forward, what a shame.
Cheers
Larry Varley
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 11:05:50 +0000 (UTC)
From: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: "LIST, HEALEY" <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Oil Flow
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Hello ,
B 
I have recently ...............had my carbs rebuilt (Paltech), installed Kirk
headers, installed a NOS Abarth exhaust, hi-torque starter, Alum. valve cover,
rebuilt radiater, replaced all cooling hoses, rockers rebuilt (rockers
unlimited), 123 ignition (not installed yet), K&N air filters,
etc.etc.........and yes I am about broke :)
B 
I have driven the car (1966 BJ8) about 200 miles..................car ran
decentB  .....but idles a little high (if I tap the throttle shaft between
carbs it idles down....like its sticking)B  I pulled the plugs .....no.1
looked ok but the rest were black ,sooty (rich)B B  ..............so I figured
I would start from scratch and tune/adjust everything...........checked oil it
was about 1/2 quart low?B  ...........so I started by adjusting valvesB  (snug
.012B  cold)B  after adjusting I turned engine over with starter only (all
spark plug out, coil wire disconnected)B  and watched rockers....to my dismay
the oil feed banjo was not tight and leaking a lot............so I replaced
copper sealing washers and finaly got it to seal (I hope)B  ...............MY
QUESTION IS .....when turning the engine over with just the
starterB ........B  how much oil should I be seeingB flowing??B B B 
.......what I see is ....little to no oil coming out the top of rockers,B  lot
of oil running down a couple of the push rods, there is oil directly under the
rocker shaft its whole length.....could the rocker assembly been damaged in
200 miles...........please advise ...............I am using Brad Penn 20w /50w
B 
B 
THANKS
Mitch
B 
B 
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 07:17:48 -0400
To: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

I always preferred to drive my BN1 but the BN7 I bought my (now ex) wife
was a very sweet car though the steering was quite heavy.  Opinions differ
but to my mind Healeys devolved as time went on and when they went from
roadsters to convertibles that was that.

Why they ever came out with four-seaters is a mystery to me--the boots
weren't much good for storing anything but ping pong balls and the space
behind the seats was useless for anything except for storage of the baggage
that should have been in the boot in the first place!




On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 6:43 AM, Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
wrote:

> A two seater 100-6 with a BJ8 engine is what they should have made. B It
> would be a nice balance in my opinion for whatever that is worth.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2 with the heavy transmission.
> 60 AN5
>
> <div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Larry Varley <
> varley@cosmos.net.au> </div><div>Date:07/06/2014  00:57  (GMT-08:00)
> </div><div>To: healeys@autox.team.net </div><div>Subject: [Healeys]
> Healeys </div><div>
> </div>I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I
> would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed by
> Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who never
> made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to keep
> producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad design.
> The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the engine? Oh
> dear. The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really
> added no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy
> engine and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the
> balance of the car? Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but
> the sixes at their best are really ponderous in the steering department
> relative to the BN1, which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so
> far as to use an alloy block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend
> handling car and restore the weight balance. BMC basically self
> destructed, while the rest of the world moved forward, what a shame.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 07:30:10 -0400
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: varley@cosmos.net.au,  "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
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BMC set the direction - standardizing on the 6 cylinder (because the 4 
cylinder was supposedly going out of production), but Donald and Geoff 
did the design, not BMC.

Let's not forget the Sprite, nor the MGs.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 07/06/2014 03:57 AM, Larry Varley wrote:
> I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I
> would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed by
> Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who never
> made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to keep
> producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad design.
> The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the engine? Oh
> dear. The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really
> added no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy
> engine and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the
> balance of the car? Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but
> the sixes at their best are really ponderous in the steering department
> relative to the BN1, which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so
> far as to use an alloy block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend
> handling car and restore the weight balance. BMC basically self
> destructed, while the rest of the world moved forward, what a shame.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
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From: "Robert F. Begani" <rfbegani@speakeasy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 07:49:43 -0400
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Gentlemen:

 

In your discussion regarding the demise of BMC does not address the problem
of economics.  In actual fact, British lost WW1 and WW2 because they were
financially exhausted after 1945 and did not recover fully until the 1980's.
The economic assistance the USA provided the British was with war and war
machines. For all practical purposes, it stopped after the war.  In
addition, the country turned to Labor. The Social policies of the new
government required enormous amounts of money and none to repair the war
torn industries and infrastructure of the country.  To give you an example,
in the 80's I was in London and tried to call my business associate in the
suburbs from a coin box.  The call would not go through so I asked the
operator to assist.  She dialed the number and I heard the click click of
the dialing and there was an answer.   It was not the correct number, but,
it was a neighbor and she announced that this happens quite often.  In turn
she called Tony and he called me back at the hotel.  When we discussed what
happened and that I was surprised the phone system was so antiquated, he
reminded me that they did, in fact, lose the war.

 

The USA Marshall Plan invested billions of dollars in Europe, but,  very
little in Britain.  The northern Europeans got the bulk of the monies
because the USA needed a strong economy and war machine to hold the
Russians.  Never the less, I can tell you that in the 70's and into the 80's
I visited steel mills in Netherlands, Belgium and France which were from the
era of the 20's because we did not destroy them in the war as they would be
needed after the war.  Besides their production of steel,  they were need to
provide employment to thousands.  On the other hand, the German Steel Mills
and most of their industry were destroyed in the war and what was left, the
Russians took away.  So the economies of the northern Europe benefited from
the Marshal Plan  expanded greatly in the period after the war while British
Industry struggled.  It is called the Economic Miracle of the 60's and 70's.


 

In Southern Europe, there was also an economic upswing due to the fact that
10's of thousands of Italian, Southern French, Spanish and Portuguese and
others flooded into Germany and northern Europe to work in the factories.
They sent money home to be invested in rebuilding the infrastructure of
their countries by buying fixing up houses and buying locally their needs.
The trickle-down theory of economics.

 

As most of those studying economics in Europe wrote about the German
Economic Miracle, I wrote my Master's Thesis on the Economic Miracle of
Northern Italy because it was indirectly supported by the Marshall Plan and
my professor was U.S. Military Economic Advisor who after the war worked in
Italy on these matters.  He liked my choice!

 

So goes the world.  

 

Regards,

 

Bob Begani
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 8:12:36 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
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Status: RO

I believe it was Jule, from the Jule frame place, who installed a 3.8L Jag engine in his Healey--not sure of the year.  I remember driving to Ashville and he blowing past us at a fast pace.  That engine took up every bit of space under the bonnet.

tom
---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
You just opened a can of worms, splendid.
Although I think that the later 6-cilinder AH's looked better than the 
BN1, I always disliked that heavy lump of cast iron under the bonnet. 
What about a 6 in line BMW engine. Plenty of those around. I have seen 
some very neat conversions using that engine, especially in a Jensen 
541S which originally had a 4 liter 6 in line Austin engine. They had to 
fit much weaker front springs and alter the shocks but it resulted in a 
far better road behaviour and, not unimportant, the steering effort 
became much more manageable and pleasant.There should be a few Japs as 
well that can supply enough 6 in line grunt. I am not sure if 
Datsun/Nissan supplied any lightweight/aluminium 6 in line engines but 
if so it would keep it a bit in the family as Datsun more or less 
started life producing and developing/improving Austin products. I have 
heard that even the early (and perhaps later) in line sixes from 
Datsun/Nissan will match up with an Austin gearbox.
Do not forget the lightweight Buick derived Rover V-8 which should fit 
without to much bother and also has some relation to Austin.
There are probably some Australian engines as well that are suitable but 
I do not know anything of those.
Not only did BMC self destruct, the entire UK car industry did. Only 
some assembly from foreign cars left: e.g. Nissan and Mini (BMW) plus 
some niche manufacturers mostly in in foreign ownership, e.g. Lotus, 
Rolls Royce, Morgan
Kees Oudesluijs


Larry Varley schreef op 6-7-2014 9:57:
> I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I 
> would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed 
> by Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who 
> never made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to 
> keep producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad 
> design. The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the 
> engine? Oh dear. The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox 
> that really added no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that 
> horribly heavy engine and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and 
> just ruin the balance of the car? Ok after that they added the 12 port 
> head to it, but the sixes at their best are really ponderous in the 
> steering department relative to the BN1, which is a nibble well 
> balance car. I'm going so far as to use an alloy block in my BT7 to 
> turn it back into a descend handling car and restore the weight 
> balance. BMC basically self destructed, while the rest of the world 
> moved forward, what a shame.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 08:46:57 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Healeys
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Larry,

You'd have to include the Frogeye Sprite as well.  Designed by Donald and
Gerry it was totally original.  And Donald often said it was his favorite
Healey.  Unless you don't consider the Sprite a "real" Healey.  In that
case, we can have a whole other debate,

Cheers,
Rick


On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 3:57 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I
> would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed by
> Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who never
> made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to keep
> producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad design. The
> mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the engine? Oh dear.
> The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really added no
> extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy engine and no
> more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the balance of the car?
> Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but the sixes at their
> best are really ponderous in the steering department relative to the BN1,
> which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so far as to use an alloy
> block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend handling car and restore the
> weight balance. BMC basically self destructed, while the rest of the world
> moved forward, what a shame.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd:  Healeys
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G'day

Actually the first "real" Healey was built in late 1945 while the last
"real" Healey was built in 1954. You blokes are referring to Austin-Healeys
not Healeys.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
HealeyRick
Sent: Sunday, 6 July 2014 10:47 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healeys

Larry,

You'd have to include the Frogeye Sprite as well.  Designed by Donald and
Gerry it was totally original.  And Donald often said it was his favorite
Healey.  Unless you don't consider the Sprite a "real" Healey.  In that
case, we can have a whole other debate,

Cheers,
Rick


On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 3:57 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:

> I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I 
> would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed 
> by Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who 
> never made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to 
> keep producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad 
> design. The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the
engine? Oh dear.
> The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really added 
> no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy engine 
> and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the balance of
the car?
> Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but the sixes at 
> their best are really ponderous in the steering department relative to 
> the BN1, which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so far as to 
> use an alloy block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend handling 
> car and restore the weight balance. BMC basically self destructed, 
> while the rest of the world moved forward, what a shame.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ 
> options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Lol, happy to include the sprite, great looking car, boring after the 
bugeye, but who would design that stupid little hose that goes from the 
head to the block and is near impossible to change without taking the 
head off! And how long does it take to work out that putting a ball race 
on each end of the gearbox cluster will mean you can rebuild it without 
replacing the gear!
P.S. I know we all love them because they look and sound wonderful, but 
they did bring themselves undone.
Cheers
Larry

On 6/07/2014 10:46 PM, HealeyRick wrote:
> Larry,
>
> You'd have to include the Frogeye Sprite as well.  Designed by Donald and
> Gerry it was totally original.  And Donald often said it was his favorite
> Healey.  Unless you don't consider the Sprite a "real" Healey.  In that
> case, we can have a whole other debate,
>
> Cheers,
> Rick
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 3:57 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
>
>> I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I
>> would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed by
>> Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who never
>> made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to keep
>> producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad design. The
>> mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the engine? Oh dear.
>> The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really added no
>> extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy engine and no
>> more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the balance of the car?
>> Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but the sixes at their
>> best are really ponderous in the steering department relative to the BN1,
>> which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so far as to use an alloy
>> block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend handling car and restore the
>> weight balance. BMC basically self destructed, while the rest of the world
>> moved forward, what a shame.
>> Cheers
>> Larry Varley
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:36 2018
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 09:04:36 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
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Status: RO

Tom,

Marty Jule actually put a supercharged V12 Jag in a 100.  It's pretty
amazing:  http://www.jule-enterprises.com/projects/100-4-v12-supercharged/

Seems funny to be talking about "re-engineered" Healeys while we're
remembering Rich Chrysler,who seemed to prefer his Healeys as they left the
factory.  His presence on the list is truly missed.


On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 8:12 AM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> I believe it was Jule, from the Jule frame place, who installed a 3.8L Jag
> engine in his Healey--not sure of the year.  I remember driving to Ashville
> and he blowing past us at a fast pace.  That engine took up every bit of
> space under the bonnet.
>
> tom
> ---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
> =============
> You just opened a can of worms, splendid.
> Although I think that the later 6-cilinder AH's looked better than the
> BN1, I always disliked that heavy lump of cast iron under the bonnet.
> What about a 6 in line BMW engine. Plenty of those around. I have seen
> some very neat conversions using that engine, especially in a Jensen
> 541S which originally had a 4 liter 6 in line Austin engine. They had to
> fit much weaker front springs and alter the shocks but it resulted in a
> far better road behaviour and, not unimportant, the steering effort
> became much more manageable and pleasant.There should be a few Japs as
> well that can supply enough 6 in line grunt. I am not sure if
> Datsun/Nissan supplied any lightweight/aluminium 6 in line engines but
> if so it would keep it a bit in the family as Datsun more or less
> started life producing and developing/improving Austin products. I have
> heard that even the early (and perhaps later) in line sixes from
> Datsun/Nissan will match up with an Austin gearbox.
> Do not forget the lightweight Buick derived Rover V-8 which should fit
> without to much bother and also has some relation to Austin.
> There are probably some Australian engines as well that are suitable but
> I do not know anything of those.
> Not only did BMC self destruct, the entire UK car industry did. Only
> some assembly from foreign cars left: e.g. Nissan and Mini (BMW) plus
> some niche manufacturers mostly in in foreign ownership, e.g. Lotus,
> Rolls Royce, Morgan
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Larry Varley schreef op 6-7-2014 9:57:
> > I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I
> > would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed
> > by Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who
> > never made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to
> > keep producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad
> > design. The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the
> > engine? Oh dear. The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox
> > that really added no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that
> > horribly heavy engine and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and
> > just ruin the balance of the car? Ok after that they added the 12 port
> > head to it, but the sixes at their best are really ponderous in the
> > steering department relative to the BN1, which is a nibble well
> > balance car. I'm going so far as to use an alloy block in my BT7 to
> > turn it back into a descend handling car and restore the weight
> > balance. BMC basically self destructed, while the rest of the world
> > moved forward, what a shame.
> > Cheers
> > Larry Varley
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
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> > 07/06/14
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Na, can't wear that, what company short of money flies it's British 
sales team to Belgium for sales meetings? Pour money into a hopeless V8 
design for the Triumph stag. Build a 6 in Australia, then another 6 for 
the MGC in England. So many bad decisions........ On the up side the 
smartest move they made was getting hold of the Buick V8 :)

On 6/07/2014 9:49 PM, Robert F. Begani wrote:
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 23:01:45 +1000
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd:  Healeys
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Patrick, I stand humbly corrected.......
Cheers
On 6/07/2014 10:51 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
> G'day
>
> Actually the first "real" Healey was built in late 1945 while the last
> "real" Healey was built in 1954. You blokes are referring to Austin-Healeys
> not Healeys.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 09:14:00 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healeys
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Status: RO

But the BN1 was a "Healey" before it became an "AUstin-Healey".  I'm so
confused.

Cheers,
Rick


On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
> Actually the first "real" Healey was built in late 1945 while the last
> "real" Healey was built in 1954. You blokes are referring to Austin-Healeys
> not Healeys.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <varley@cosmos.net.au>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <004601cf9910$6213b960$263b2c20$@speakeasy.net>
 <53B9480F.7020407@cosmos.net.au>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 23:17:32 +1000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] British Motor Car Industry
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Status: RO

Rover was a separate company when it bought the rights to the General Motors
all alloy V8. It's only when they were taken over by Leyland that they
started to go downhill.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry
Varley
Sent: Sunday, 6 July 2014 10:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] British Motor Car Industry

Na, can't wear that, what company short of money flies it's British sales
team to Belgium for sales meetings? Pour money into a hopeless V8 design for
the Triumph stag. Build a 6 in Australia, then another 6 for the MGC in
England. So many bad decisions........ On the up side the smartest move they
made was getting hold of the Buick V8 :)

On 6/07/2014 9:49 PM, Robert F. Begani wrote:
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, <healeyrik@gmail.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 14:25:18 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd:  Healeys
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Status: RO

By that definition the last real Healey was the Healey 100 prototype which was
miraculously converted to an Austin Healey overnight at the 1952 Earls Court
auto show.

Bill Lawrence

> From: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> To: healeyrik@gmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 22:51:20 +1000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd:  Healeys
>
> G'day
>
> Actually the first "real" Healey was built in late 1945 while the last
> "real" Healey was built in 1954. You blokes are referring to Austin-Healeys
> not Healeys.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> HealeyRick
> Sent: Sunday, 6 July 2014 10:47 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healeys
>
> Larry,
>
> You'd have to include the Frogeye Sprite as well.  Designed by Donald and
> Gerry it was totally original.  And Donald often said it was his favorite
> Healey.  Unless you don't consider the Sprite a "real" Healey.  In that
> case, we can have a whole other debate,
>
> Cheers,
> Rick
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 3:57 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
>
> > I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I
> > would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed
> > by Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who
> > never made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to
> > keep producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad
> > design. The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the
> engine? Oh dear.
> > The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really added
> > no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy engine
> > and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the balance of
> the car?
> > Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but the sixes at
> > their best are really ponderous in the steering department relative to
> > the BN1, which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so far as to
> > use an alloy block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend handling
> > car and restore the weight balance. BMC basically self destructed,
> > while the rest of the world moved forward, what a shame.
> > Cheers
> > Larry Varley
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> > donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> > options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 14:33:40 +0000
References: <oh126b3vwdvg9hea08maj0yh.1404643437910@email.android.com>,
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You need to recall who the "they" was In the question. Austin management
thought a 2+2 would sell better to family men. So I doubt that was a Healey
decision.

I knew a couple who drove from Sturgis, South Dakota to Glenwood Springs,
Colorado and back (probably 1300 miles in all) in their BN4 with their luggage
and camping gear and their two small daughters in the jump seats. That takes
organization...

Bill Lawrence

> From: michael.oritt@gmail.com
> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 07:17:48 -0400
> To: rrengineer.mike@att.net
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
> I always preferred to drive my BN1 but the BN7 I bought my (now ex) wife
> was a very sweet car though the steering was quite heavy.  Opinions differ
> but to my mind Healeys devolved as time went on and when they went from
> roadsters to convertibles that was that.
>
> Why they ever came out with four-seaters is a mystery to me--the boots
> weren't much good for storing anything but ping pong balls and the space
> behind the seats was useless for anything except for storage of the baggage
> that should have been in the boot in the first place!
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 6:43 AM, Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
> wrote:
>
> > A two seater 100-6 with a BJ8 engine is what they should have made. B It
> > would be a nice balance in my opinion for whatever that is worth.
> > Mike MacLean
> > 56 BN2 with the heavy transmission.
> > 60 AN5
> >
> > <div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Larry Varley <
> > varley@cosmos.net.au> </div><div>Date:07/06/2014  00:57  (GMT-08:00)
> > </div><div>To: healeys@autox.team.net </div><div>Subject: [Healeys]
> > Healeys </div><div>
> > </div>I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun.
I
> > would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed by
> > Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who never
> > made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to keep
> > producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad design.
> > The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the engine? Oh
> > dear. The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really
> > added no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy
> > engine and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the
> > balance of the car? Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but
> > the sixes at their best are really ponderous in the steering department
> > relative to the BN1, which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so
> > far as to use an alloy block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend
> > handling car and restore the weight balance. BMC basically self
> > destructed, while the rest of the world moved forward, what a shame.
> > Cheers
> > Larry Varley
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike@att.net
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <rfbegani@speakeasy.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 14:35:44 +0000
References: <004601cf9910$6213b960$263b2c20$@speakeasy.net>
 FILETIME=[926EC160:01CF9927]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] British Motor Car Industry
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Status: RO

All hail the power of the unintended consequence!

Bill Lawrence

> From: rfbegani@speakeasy.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 07:49:43 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] British Motor Car Industry
>
> Gentlemen:
>
>
>
> In your discussion regarding the demise of BMC does not address the problem
> of economics.  In actual fact, British lost WW1 and WW2 because they were
> financially exhausted after 1945 and did not recover fully until the
1980's.
> The economic assistance the USA provided the British was with war and war
> machines. For all practical purposes, it stopped after the war.  In
> addition, the country turned to Labor. The Social policies of the new
> government required enormous amounts of money and none to repair the war
> torn industries and infrastructure of the country.  To give you an example,
> in the 80's I was in London and tried to call my business associate in the
> suburbs from a coin box.  The call would not go through so I asked the
> operator to assist.  She dialed the number and I heard the click click of
> the dialing and there was an answer.   It was not the correct number, but,
> it was a neighbor and she announced that this happens quite often.  In turn
> she called Tony and he called me back at the hotel.  When we discussed what
> happened and that I was surprised the phone system was so antiquated, he
> reminded me that they did, in fact, lose the war.
>
>
>
> The USA Marshall Plan invested billions of dollars in Europe, but,  very
> little in Britain.  The northern Europeans got the bulk of the monies
> because the USA needed a strong economy and war machine to hold the
> Russians.  Never the less, I can tell you that in the 70's and into the
80's
> I visited steel mills in Netherlands, Belgium and France which were from
the
> era of the 20's because we did not destroy them in the war as they would be
> needed after the war.  Besides their production of steel,  they were need
to
> provide employment to thousands.  On the other hand, the German Steel Mills
> and most of their industry were destroyed in the war and what was left, the
> Russians took away.  So the economies of the northern Europe benefited from
> the Marshal Plan  expanded greatly in the period after the war while
British
> Industry struggled.  It is called the Economic Miracle of the 60's and
70's.
>
>
>
>
> In Southern Europe, there was also an economic upswing due to the fact that
> 10's of thousands of Italian, Southern French, Spanish and Portuguese and
> others flooded into Germany and northern Europe to work in the factories.
> They sent money home to be invested in rebuilding the infrastructure of
> their countries by buying fixing up houses and buying locally their needs.
> The trickle-down theory of economics.
>
>
>
> As most of those studying economics in Europe wrote about the German
> Economic Miracle, I wrote my Master's Thesis on the Economic Miracle of
> Northern Italy because it was indirectly supported by the Marshall Plan and
> my professor was U.S. Military Economic Advisor who after the war worked in
> Italy on these matters.  He liked my choice!
>
>
>
> So goes the world.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bob Begani
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 17:30:35 +0200
Thread-Index: Ac+ZLufB80X5j5ZQRZ6ofHOd3fcP+w==
Content-Language: pl
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

   I think there is a lot of us here that owe him for his unbelievable
help..
I for one owe him quite a lot..
If Rich were not there to help, I would not have assembled my BN2 like I
did.

Tadek


---
Ta wiadomoED e-mail jest wolna od wirusC3w i zEoEliwego oprogramowania,
poniewaE< ochrona avast! Antivirus jest aktywna.
http://www.avast.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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 <53B90A13.6050903@chello.nl>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 08:49:48 -0700
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I borrowed a known good unit from a friend and it worked, It showed that I
had less than a 1/2 tank of gas. My gauge looks great, but does not
function.
Thanks.
Just trying to see if $150.00 is a fair price for a rebuilt unit.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 1:34 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:

> Are you sure the gauge is at fault? Did you try with a power supply from
> 0V-.. and got any response? If it did show some response look elsewhere for
> the fault.
> You could try to buy (e.g. ebay.co.uk) a Smiths or Jaeger UK gauge of the
> same type but with a corroded/damaged/incorrect for the Healey face and
> transplant your existing gauge face to the one acquired. They are very
> simple to dismantle and put together again. Leave the internals
> undisturbed, just remove the bezel by slightly lifting the tabs and then
> turning the bezel until the tabs line up with the slots in the body and the
> bezel and glass will lift of, then remove the dial face taking great care
> not to bend the needle.
> I may perhaps have an old gauge that might be of use. You can have it for
> the shipping costs. If you send me some pictures of the gauge (face, rear
> of body, internals if possible) and especially the number on the dial I can
> have a look in my famous boxes of old junk.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> NL
>
> I Erbs schreef op 6-7-2014 7:37:
>
>> Any idea on what it would cost to get a fuel gauge rebuilt? I have an
>> offer
>> of one nearby, but we are unsure of its value
>>
>> I Erbs
>> IT Educator and Consultant
>> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
>> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
>> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7803 - datum van uitgifte:
>> 07/05/14
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 11:55:02 -0400
References: <CACPMnYrZMRA5T267DF2axNdHTthjcGZj0u_3wvp013SiDZ_b3A@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Moss will do it for $734.95....GULP!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Sent: b7/b6/b2014 1:38 AM
To: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel gauge

Any idea on what it would cost to get a fuel gauge rebuilt? I have an offer
of one nearby, but we are unsure of its value

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 15:55:39 +0000
References: <CACPMnYrZMRA5T267DF2axNdHTthjcGZj0u_3wvp013SiDZ_b3A@mail.gmail.com>,
 <53B90A13.6050903@chello.nl>,
 <CACPMnYrXPkcwoqSOcbf1t9dYBG9fLUA_k1wYSxOTCV7vwPHVEA@mail.gmail.com>
 FILETIME=[BC5FC040:01CF9932]
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I think $150.00 is a fair price for a rebuilt unit, especially if you are on a
drive 40 miles from a gas station on a secondary road with nighttime coming
and you run out of gas. At that time I would venture to say, you'd think it
was mighty inexpensive............



Jean


> From: eyera3000@gmail.com
> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 08:49:48 -0700
> To: coudesluijs@chello.nl
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
>
> I borrowed a known good unit from a friend and it worked, It showed that I
> had less than a 1/2 tank of gas. My gauge looks great, but does not
> function.
> Thanks.
> Just trying to see if $150.00 is a fair price for a rebuilt unit.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 1:34 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
> > Are you sure the gauge is at fault? Did you try with a power supply from
> > 0V-.. and got any response? If it did show some response look elsewhere
for
> > the fault.
> > You could try to buy (e.g. ebay.co.uk) a Smiths or Jaeger UK gauge of the
> > same type but with a corroded/damaged/incorrect for the Healey face and
> > transplant your existing gauge face to the one acquired. They are very
> > simple to dismantle and put together again. Leave the internals
> > undisturbed, just remove the bezel by slightly lifting the tabs and then
> > turning the bezel until the tabs line up with the slots in the body and
the
> > bezel and glass will lift of, then remove the dial face taking great care
> > not to bend the needle.
> > I may perhaps have an old gauge that might be of use. You can have it for
> > the shipping costs. If you send me some pictures of the gauge (face, rear
> > of body, internals if possible) and especially the number on the dial I
can
> > have a look in my famous boxes of old junk.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > NL
> >
> > I Erbs schreef op 6-7-2014 7:37:
> >
> >> Any idea on what it would cost to get a fuel gauge rebuilt? I have an
> >> offer
> >> of one nearby, but we are unsure of its value
> >>
> >> I Erbs
> >> IT Educator and Consultant
> >> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> >> options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----
> >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7803 - datum van uitgifte:
> >> 07/05/14
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> > options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYrZMRA5T267DF2axNdHTthjcGZj0u_3wvp013SiDZ_b3A@mail.gmail.com>, 
 <53B90A13.6050903@chello.nl>,
 <CACPMnYrXPkcwoqSOcbf1t9dYBG9fLUA_k1wYSxOTCV7vwPHVEA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BLU173-W31E91B05A2629003336933D1020@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 09:52:10 -0700
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQJbocgiy8s50h0mfzCz3G2Yd5Q4eAHtmNUXAkOOsWMCH995B5pIo9rQ
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Rebuilding the gauge will not necessarily improve the accuracy. The accuracy
is tuned by adjusting the coils. However, after years of use and adjusting I
suspect the coils become out of plumb vertically. That makes it difficult to
align the coil magnets with the armature.

That's my theory. Anyone agree or have other thoughts?

John Spaur
San Jose, CA
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: bspidell@comcast.net
To: "" <healeys@autox.team.net>, john <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 09:59:34 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: john <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

It's not always the fuel gauge, the sending unit in the fuel tank is
typically the culprit.  Roger Moment was rebuilding these for a while, but
I'm certain there are others out there providing this service.

Cheers,

Curt


On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 9:52 AM, john <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Rebuilding the gauge will not necessarily improve the accuracy. The
> accuracy
> is tuned by adjusting the coils. However, after years of use and adjusting
> I
> suspect the coils become out of plumb vertically. That makes it difficult
> to
> align the coil magnets with the armature.
>
> That's my theory. Anyone agree or have other thoughts?
>
> John Spaur
> San Jose, CA
> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 10:11:21 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

West Valley Instruments (the founder was a partner at MOMA for a long time I
believe) rebuilt my gauge and supplied an original rebuilt sender that were
calibrated together. The calibration was way off. I took it out and did some
calibration work myself. It tends to read full and then suddenly will read 1/2
full and then stay around 1/2 full as the tank empties more. It is not very
accurate at the low end. I owned a 1962 Healey from 1968 to 1973. The gauge in
that car was far more accurate.



I have taken my gauge apart to better understand the calibration and I built a
testing unit. The site below shows you pictures of the insides, the coils and
armature and shows how to build the calibration unit.



http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm



I still cannot get the accuracy I recall from new gauges. The only thing I can
think of is the coil magnets are not well aligned with the armature because
they are out of plumb. The only way I can think of to fix that is to bend the
case where the coils rest against it but it would be guess work.



John



From: bspidell@comcast.net [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 9:56 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net; john
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge



Wouldn't a qualified rebuilder also calibrate the gauge?
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 13:12:22 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>,  Jean Caron
 <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
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Status: RO

I've been driving my Jeep for a few years now without a working fuel gauge---when I fill up, I reset the odometer and I know just how many miles I can go b4 needing gas---so----when 225 miles rolls around I fill up again ---not foolproof but works till the gauge is fixed.

tom
---- Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com> wrote: 

=============
I think $150.00 is a fair price for a rebuilt unit, especially if you are on a
drive 40 miles from a gas station on a secondary road with nighttime coming
and you run out of gas. At that time I would venture to say, you'd think it
was mighty inexpensive............



Jean


> From: eyera3000@gmail.com
> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 08:49:48 -0700
> To: coudesluijs@chello.nl
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
>
> I borrowed a known good unit from a friend and it worked, It showed that I
> had less than a 1/2 tank of gas. My gauge looks great, but does not
> function.
> Thanks.
> Just trying to see if $150.00 is a fair price for a rebuilt unit.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 1:34 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
>
> > Are you sure the gauge is at fault? Did you try with a power supply from
> > 0V-.. and got any response? If it did show some response look elsewhere
for
> > the fault.
> > You could try to buy (e.g. ebay.co.uk) a Smiths or Jaeger UK gauge of the
> > same type but with a corroded/damaged/incorrect for the Healey face and
> > transplant your existing gauge face to the one acquired. They are very
> > simple to dismantle and put together again. Leave the internals
> > undisturbed, just remove the bezel by slightly lifting the tabs and then
> > turning the bezel until the tabs line up with the slots in the body and
the
> > bezel and glass will lift of, then remove the dial face taking great care
> > not to bend the needle.
> > I may perhaps have an old gauge that might be of use. You can have it for
> > the shipping costs. If you send me some pictures of the gauge (face, rear
> > of body, internals if possible) and especially the number on the dial I
can
> > have a look in my famous boxes of old junk.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > NL
> >
> > I Erbs schreef op 6-7-2014 7:37:
> >
> >> Any idea on what it would cost to get a fuel gauge rebuilt? I have an
> >> offer
> >> of one nearby, but we are unsure of its value
> >>
> >> I Erbs
> >> IT Educator and Consultant
> >> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys@autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> >> options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----
> >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7803 - datum van uitgifte:
> >> 07/05/14
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> > options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 12:15:11 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
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To: 4r - Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYrZMRA5T267DF2axNdHTthjcGZj0u_3wvp013SiDZ_b3A@mail.gmail.com>, 
 <53B90A13.6050903@chello.nl>,
 <CACPMnYrXPkcwoqSOcbf1t9dYBG9fLUA_k1wYSxOTCV7vwPHVEA@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

<<  On 7/6/2014 11:52 AM, john wrote:
> Anyone agree or have other thoughts?  >>

IIRC <G>, www.mgaguru.com ---> "Enter" ---> [top LEFT corner?? image of MGA
on a Lift going up/down] "Tech Articles" ---> Search [fuel gauge ??], John.

Applies for MOST era LBCs <G> ! ! !

KEEP Barney's site in your Favs/Bookmarks <VBG>;  TONS of info ! ! !

Ed
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <oh126b3vwdvg9hea08maj0yh.1404643437910@email.android.com>,
 <CAPTa0B7t3oRcqAk-KSnYDyv+xZYOU+e7ZMNQOw-qs8k=L+ECsQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <SNT149-W25789E649C8F0A09C617D6A5020@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 12:21:58 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

A great topic, after WWII through the mid fifties Britain was on top of the 
car manufacturing world,  the Jag XK120, Healey 100, and Triumph TR2 
outperformed other sports cars and other cars for that matter at anywhere 
near the price, Rolls Royce and Bentley really were the best luxury cars in 
the in the world, Jag sedans not far behind.  A contemporary road test of 
the TR2 said it would outdrag any Aamerican car from a stoplight, and 
American car magazines spoke of the quality of British manufacturing and 
engineering.

The very nature of the cottage industry (compared to the US) of British car 
manufacturing helped them move fast with new models after the war and they 
were at the top of their game.

But the Americans started making thin wall casting lightweight V-8s and 
horsepower shot up, the Italians and Germans started making overhead cam 
motors and more sophisticated suspensions, and use of aluminum alloy in 
engines for their mainstream cars, while the bread and butter British sports 
cars and sedans soldiered on with the live axles, lots of cast iron, and the 
same motors for years.

The Mini, MGB, and E-type were the last hurrahs of the of Great Britain's 
motor industry, the B maybe not as modern as the other two, but certainly 
well designed, built and engineered.

Another of the real killers was unibody construction, which cost so much 
more to tool up for, the small cottage industry, relatively low production 
nature of the British industry which had been a boon after the war, where a 
few blokes with some know how and tools could put together an awfully good 
sports car (Donald Healey) suddenly became a problem,  as the capital needed 
to design and manufacture unibody cars and update them on a regular basis 
was just not there.  The Spridget and MGB are good examples, yes they were 
nice unibody sports cars, but between the fact that they continued to sell, 
and the fact the retooling for a whole new design was so expensive, both 
cars remained in production for practically ever.

The whole BMC/BL idea was probably a good one if Britain wanted to stay in 
the game as a major power in auto manufacture, and not a country of small 
limited production builders like Lotus, Aston and TVR, but it was either too 
late (similar to the consolidations of some of the non big three 
manufacturers in the states in the 50s)  or poorly executed (certainly) and 
failed.

Greg Lemon
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 18:23:02 +0100
From: "hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk" <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Scotland to Italy in 100 part 2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Well, we arrived at our destination in the Val D'Aosta last night! Total
journey so far is about 1000 miles. Since leaving Maidstone in Kent on
Thursday morning, the first highlight was at the ferry port in Dover - it
turns out that the Le Mans Classic was the following weekend, and loads of us
Brits were taking their classics over for the weekend. We chatted to guys in
Triumphs, a Grinell and also saw a Bailey Special that looked prewar. Our
drive down through France was uneventful. However the museum in Mulhouse was
fantastic- my wife asked if there were any Bugattis actually on the road as
there were so many in the museum. I have one photo of Bugattis in french blue
as far as the eye can see. After Mulhouse we stayed at Bartenheim overnight.
It was our wedding anniversary and we celebrated with a wonderful meal and
local bottle of wine. Yesterday we drove from there over the border to
Switzerland. The weather was foul and we were thinking that it was
 not good for the Grand St Bernard Pass. However the sun soon came out so we
decided to go for it. The 100 definitely heated up a bit more than usual. We
also had some fuel evaporation that caused some missing after we had stopped
and restarted.  But overall no problems. On the top we met guys on the Barmy
to Barcelona Wacky Rally. The idea is to get a car that cost less than #300,
decorate the body in something silly and travel from Lille to Barcelona. 
Google it and you will get the picture! ! We have had loads of interest in the
100 all the way so far. We are now staying put in the Val d'aosta for a week
of hill walking so there will be no reports for now. Many thanks for all the
good wishes. We are having a great time

Mike B

Sent from Yahoo Mail on
Android
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 12:27:05 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
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CC: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20140706131222.A8A37.27043.root@pamxwww01-z01>
 {sentby:smtp auth 98.212.127.207 authed with shop@justbrits.com}
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

E D I T        Y O U R        R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject" 
catches you] ! ! !*
**XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

*
<<  On 7/6/2014 12:12 PM, Tom Felts wrote:
> when 225 miles rolls around I fill up again...  >>
I do the same in my p/u & "Hortense" even tho BOTH gauges work, Tom.

Kinda a "CYA, Ed" ! ! !   LOL

Ed
'63 A-H BJ-7 (  wearing STD. IL plates    AH BJ 7  )
" Just Brits "
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Curtis Arndt'" <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
References: <CACPMnYrZMRA5T267DF2axNdHTthjcGZj0u_3wvp013SiDZ_b3A@mail.gmail.com>
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 10:27:41 -0700
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Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

The sending unit has a coil and the quality of the coil windings has an effect
on the gauge. Bad senders have very few windings and the better, original
senders, have windings that spaced more closely. Sloshing of the fuel will
cause the gauge to jump around. The problem I have is the needle appears to
stick on high and then it will suddenly jump down to 1/2. Experience with
adjusting the coils leads me to the conclusion the distance of the coil
magnets from the armature is critical to achieving an accurately calibrated
gauge.



Cheers,

John



From: Curtis Arndt [mailto:cnaarndt@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 10:00 AM
To: john
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge



It's not always the fuel gauge, the sending unit in the fuel tank is typically
the culprit.  Roger Moment was rebuilding these for a while, but I'm certain
there are others out there providing this service.

Cheers,

Curt
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From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

E D I T        Y O U R        R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject" 
catches you] ! ! !*
**XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

*
<<  On 7/6/2014 12:11 PM, john wrote:
> (the founder was a partner at MOMA for a long time I believe)  >>
Husband, John <G><G> ! !

Hence "Mo" = Morris and "Ma" = Margaret [ R.I.P.] === MoMa <G> ! !
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <AABK5VCJTA2738AJ@smtpout04.dca.untd.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 10:45:58 -0700
Content-language: en-us
Thread-index: AQGsO5yGYK1Voyjx0sr42YE6+kNCPpvaCs/w
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

That needs to be checked while installing the sender. With the sender out of
the car, the tank depth can be measured and the float range can then be
determined from the measurement. The gauge and sender can then be set up on
a bench to directly read the gauge movement through the range of movement of
the float. You can calibrate the coils to find the best positions for full,
3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and empty. It is time consuming and difficult because the
slightest coil movement will dramatically affect the positions of the gauge
needle; from stuck on full to stuck on empty and often insufficient movement
in-between. Then when you tighten the coil nut it will pull the coil magnet
away from the armature because of the coil plumb issue I mentioned earlier
and the looseness of the coil while calibrating.

Cheers,
John

-----Original Message-----
From: dwflagg@juno.com [mailto:dwflagg@juno.com] 
Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 10:36 AM
To: jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge

John,

Had the same problem with my BN2. It seemed the sending unit was installed
skewed  and the float was resting on the baffle in the tank as it emptied.
Ran out of gas a few times before discovering the problem.

Cheers,

Doug
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 10:58:44 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel gauge
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

It plain does not move. Borrowed friends gauge, his worked.

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
On Jul 6, 2014 9:52 AM, "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Rebuilding the gauge will not necessarily improve the accuracy. The
> accuracy
> is tuned by adjusting the coils. However, after years of use and adjusting
> I
> suspect the coils become out of plumb vertically. That makes it difficult
> to
> align the coil magnets with the armature.
>
> That's my theory. Anyone agree or have other thoughts?
>
> John Spaur
> San Jose, CA
> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Oudesluys'" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
References: <AABK5TK8DAKR5YGS@smtpout04.dca.untd.com>
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Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 12:07:12 -0700
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Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Ether boils at 94.28 degrees F. At that point it would become a gas. If the
blub is under filled, the void would be occupied by gas. Would not gas
compress differently than liquid thus causing the gauge to read incorrectly
(low) if the ether vaporized inside of the blub and line?

John Spaur

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 1:10 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved

The amount of ether in the bulb is not very critical. Any fluid has a
specified vapour pressure at a specified temperature. This is what the gauge
registers, it is a manometer that translates pressure to temperature on the
scale.
As vapour pressure is independent from volume the amount of fluid does not
matter, as long as the bulb and capillary is not completely filled up with
fluid or if there is no fluid but just vapour.
Apparently there are several sorts of ether I was told by a chemist. He
supplied me with some that is normally used in automotive gauges which I
used for repairing a gauge.
Kees Oudesluijs
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 <53B90460.20308@chello.nl>
 <00b801cf994d$7f2a16b0$7d7e4410$@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 15:55:12 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: john <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi John,
As I understand it we are dealing with vapour pressure in a closed system.
Simply put as the ether boils the gas produced increases the pressure in
the closed system which in turn increases the boiling point of the ether
resulting in the boiling stopping but higher pressure in the system.
This higher pressure makes the Bordon tube straighten a little causing
deflection of the needle.
Temperature rises more the vapour pressure rises thus the gauge needle
deflects further.
Higher the temperature the further the needle deflects.
Please bear in mind that I failed first year physics!!!

Michael S
BN1 #174



On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 3:07 PM, john <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Ether boils at 94.28 degrees F. At that point it would become a gas. If the
> blub is under filled, the void would be occupied by gas. Would not gas
> compress differently than liquid thus causing the gauge to read incorrectly
> (low) if the ether vaporized inside of the blub and line?
>
> John Spaur
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Oudesluys
> Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 1:10 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
>
> The amount of ether in the bulb is not very critical. Any fluid has a
> specified vapour pressure at a specified temperature. This is what the
> gauge
> registers, it is a manometer that translates pressure to temperature on the
> scale.
> As vapour pressure is independent from volume the amount of fluid does not
> matter, as long as the bulb and capillary is not completely filled up with
> fluid or if there is no fluid but just vapour.
> Apparently there are several sorts of ether I was told by a chemist. He
> supplied me with some that is normally used in automotive gauges which I
> used for repairing a gauge.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
References: <AABK5TK8DAKR5YGS@smtpout04.dca.untd.com>
 <001c01cf98bf$e72ee760$b58cb620$@sbcglobal.net>
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Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
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Status: RO

Hi Michael,



I seem to recall gas molecules will expand to fill the void in a close system
or something similar like that which is why the volume of ether should not
matter to a certain degree. I still think if it is under filled the gas could
not make up for expansion space. However, I never did well in physics either.



Enough of this, I am taking my Healey down to my sisterbs house so I can go
for a drive and then swimming!



John



From: michael.salter@gmail.com [mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com] On Behalf Of
Michael Salter
Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 12:55 PM
To: john
Cc: Oudesluys; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved



Hi John,
As I understand it we are dealing with vapour pressure in a closed system.

Simply put as the ether boils the gas produced increases the pressure in the
closed system which in turn increases the boiling point of the ether resulting
in the boiling stopping but higher pressure in the system.
This higher pressure makes the Bordon tube straighten a little causing
deflection of the needle.
Temperature rises more the vapour pressure rises thus the gauge needle
deflects further.

Higher the temperature the further the needle deflects.

Please bear in mind that I failed first year physics!!!

Michael S

BN1 #174





On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 3:07 PM, john <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net

Ether boils at 94.28 degrees F. At that point it would become a gas. If the
blub is under filled, the void would be occupied by gas. Would not gas
compress differently than liquid thus causing the gauge to read incorrectly
(low) if the ether vaporized inside of the blub and line?

John Spaur


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 1:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved

The amount of ether in the bulb is not very critical. Any fluid has a
specified vapour pressure at a specified temperature. This is what the gauge
registers, it is a manometer that translates pressure to temperature on the
scale.
As vapour pressure is independent from volume the amount of fluid does not
matter, as long as the bulb and capillary is not completely filled up with
fluid or if there is no fluid but just vapour.
Apparently there are several sorts of ether I was told by a chemist. He
supplied me with some that is normally used in automotive gauges which I
used for repairing a gauge.
Kees Oudesluijs
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: john <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <AABK5TK8DAKR5YGS@smtpout04.dca.untd.com>
 <001c01cf98bf$e72ee760$b58cb620$@sbcglobal.net>
 <53B90460.20308@chello.nl>
 <00b801cf994d$7f2a16b0$7d7e4410$@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

The ether will boil at that temperature 94,3F/34,6C at atmospheric 
pressure, so from that point the vapour pressure will rise and the 
manometer will start to move in a closed system. As the 
temperature/pressure rises so the boiling point will increase (the 
higher the pressure the higher the boiling point), only a small part of 
the fluid will turn to vapour, to what is called the vapour pressure at 
the given temperature. Thus the higher the temperature the higher this 
vapour pressure which is registered by the manometer which in turn is 
calibrated to indicate the corresponding temperature.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL



john schreef op 6-7-2014 21:07:
> Ether boils at 94.28 degrees F. At that point it would become a gas. If the
> blub is under filled, the void would be occupied by gas. Would not gas
> compress differently than liquid thus causing the gauge to read incorrectly
> (low) if the ether vaporized inside of the blub and line?
>
> John Spaur
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oudesluys
> Sent: Sunday, July 6, 2014 1:10 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Safety gauge - resolved
>
> The amount of ether in the bulb is not very critical. Any fluid has a
> specified vapour pressure at a specified temperature. This is what the gauge
> registers, it is a manometer that translates pressure to temperature on the
> scale.
> As vapour pressure is independent from volume the amount of fluid does not
> matter, as long as the bulb and capillary is not completely filled up with
> fluid or if there is no fluid but just vapour.
> Apparently there are several sorts of ether I was told by a chemist. He
> supplied me with some that is normally used in automotive gauges which I
> used for repairing a gauge.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7806 - datum van uitgifte: 07/06/14
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Gbday



When there was a Healey 100 there was no such thing as a BN1. Such model
designations as BN1 through to BJ8 were given by BMC as they were part of the
Corporations designation system.



Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia



From: HealeyRick [mailto:healeyrik@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, 6 July 2014 11:14 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healeys



But the BN1 was a "Healey" before it became an "AUstin-Healey".  I'm so
confused.

Cheers,

Rick



On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

G'day

Actually the first "real" Healey was built in late 1945 while the last
"real" Healey was built in 1954. You blokes are referring to Austin-Healeys
not Healeys.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 15:39:11 -0700
From: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Rich restored my grill for my BN2 for me.B  It was his suggestion.B  He did a beautiful job.B  A real gentleman and just a great guy.B  I really miss his input to this list.B  We lost one of the best on this list.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

On Jul 6, 2014 8:30 AM, Tadeusz Malkiewicz <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl> wrote:
>
> B B  I think there is a lot of us here that owe him for his unbelievable 
> help.. 
> I for one owe him quite a lot.. 
> If Rich were not there to help, I would not have assembled my BN2 like I 
> did. 
>
> Tadek 
>
>
> --- 
> Ta wiadomoED e-mail jest wolna od wirusC3w i zEoEliwego oprogramowania, 
> poniewaE< ochrona avast! Antivirus jest aktywna. 
> http://www.avast.com 
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>
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'" <ynotink@msn.com>, <healeyrik@gmail.com>,
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd:  Healeys
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Status: RO

G'day

 

The last real Healey was not the 100 that was shown in the1952 Earls Court
Motor Show, but the last Healey Tickford that left the Donald Healey Motor
Company on 25 June 1954. Also I am not including the Healey XR37 that was
built at Warwick for the 1970 Le Mans 24 hour.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [mailto:ynotink@msn.com] 
Sent: Monday, 7 July 2014 12:25 AM
To: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au; healeyrik@gmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Fwd: Healeys

 

By that definition the last real Healey was the Healey 100 prototype which
was miraculously converted to an Austin Healey overnight at the 1952 Earls
Court auto show.

Bill Lawrence

> From: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> To: healeyrik@gmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 22:51:20 +1000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Healeys
> 
> G'day
> 
> Actually the first "real" Healey was built in late 1945 while the last
> "real" Healey was built in 1954. You blokes are referring to
Austin-Healeys
> not Healeys.
> 
> Hoo Roo
> 
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> HealeyRick
> Sent: Sunday, 6 July 2014 10:47 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healeys
> 
> Larry,
> 
> You'd have to include the Frogeye Sprite as well. Designed by Donald and
> Gerry it was totally original. And Donald often said it was his favorite
> Healey. Unless you don't consider the Sprite a "real" Healey. In that
> case, we can have a whole other debate,
> 
> Cheers,
> Rick
> 
> 
> On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 3:57 AM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au> wrote:
> 
> > I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I 
> > would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed 
> > by Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who 
> > never made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to 
> > keep producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad 
> > design. The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the
> engine? Oh dear.
> > The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really added 
> > no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy engine 
> > and no more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the balance
of
> the car?
> > Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but the sixes at 
> > their best are really ponderous in the steering department relative to 
> > the BN1, which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so far as to 
> > use an alloy block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend handling 
> > car and restore the weight balance. BMC basically self destructed, 
> > while the rest of the world moved forward, what a shame.
> > Cheers
> > Larry Varley
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> > donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ 
> > options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> _______________________________________________
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <oh126b3vwdvg9hea08maj0yh.1404643437910@email.android.com>,
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Status: RO

G'day

It was the idea of DMH to make the six-cylinder Austin-Healey into a 2+2 so
to broaden the market. The single remaining pre-production 100 had been
fitted with the heavy BMC six-cylinder engine and running gear and then sent
to Jensen for the alterations to the bodywork. It was then shown to BMC as
the new six-cylinder Austin-Healey. It was then that BMC burghers thought it
would be a good idea to change the grille to something akin to the then
Austin sedan as well as incorporating as much Austin parts bin bits as they
could. 

How do I know all this?

The car that was fitted with the six-cylinder engine and then sent to Jensen
is sitting in my garage and I have copious correspondence from Geoff Healey.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE
Sent: Monday, 7 July 2014 12:34 AM
To: michael.oritt@gmail.com; rrengineer.mike@att.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys

You need to recall who the "they" was In the question. Austin management
thought a 2+2 would sell better to family men. So I doubt that was a Healey
decision.

I knew a couple who drove from Sturgis, South Dakota to Glenwood Springs,
Colorado and back (probably 1300 miles in all) in their BN4 with their
luggage and camping gear and their two small daughters in the jump seats.
That takes organization...

Bill Lawrence
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 6, Issue 281
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Status: RO

 Just to clarify for my own understanding.

I think what Pat is saying is that if the vehicle was called a "Healey 100" --
of which there was only 1, and then for only a very short time until the
portentious meeting at Earls Court between Donald and Len Lord -- it was not a
BN1.

But I'm pretty sure that the very first "Austin-Healey 100s" that were
produced and distributed for shows and to dealers, etc. were certainly BN1s,
because those were the first three characters of the number on the car number
plate.







When there was a Healey 100 there was no such thing as a BN1. Such model
designations as BN1 through to BJ8 were given by BMC as they were part of the
Corporations designation system.



Hoo Roo
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <editorgary@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 6, Issue 281
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Status: RO

G'day

Good choice of words Gary as it was certainly portentous, but it wasn't a
surprise.

What really happened was that Lord, who despite being El Supremo of BMC was
still very much an Austin man and well aware of the plans afoot at Abingdon
with MG preparing a replacement for the square rigged T series, the car that
eventually became the MGA. Lord made it known through the close knit British
automotive manufacturing industry that he was interested in one of the
smaller companies designing a new sports car that used Austin mechanicals
and would therefore compete against the MG. Three different companies took
up the project namely the Donald Healey Motor Company, Frazer Nash and
Jensen Brothers. BMC assisted with the supply of Austin mechanicals to all
three companies and even commissioned Jensen to build a new sports car.
Jensen was of course already building the Austin A40 sports which was more
of a touring car and not a sports car and also used the 4-litre Austin
engine in their first Interceptor touring car.

The Healey 100 shown for the first time at the Motor Show was a sensation,
especially in its distinctive pale metallic blue, itself very, very similar
to an earlier Alvis colour. In discussions before the Motor Show it had been
hoped that Healey and Lord might have already have made a deal, but it had
been slow in coming. At the Motor Show, Donald Healey and his staff had
trouble keeping people away from the stand and within a short period of time
DMH had received two offers of co-operation to manufacturer the new 100.
Healey never let on who the others were. The car's wonderful reception
brought on Lord's announcement that Austin was to build this new graceful
sportscar and it would be available from Austin dealers throughout the
world.

Despite the enthusiasm Lord showed for the new 100 he was a little
embarrassed as a result of his earlier commissioning of Jensen to build a
prototype, as their car was good and left Lord impressed. Jensen wasn't
displeased as they ended up with the body and trimming contracts of the new
Austin-Healey 100 as the original contractor, Tickford was just too small to
produce the volume required. Lord offered Jensen the contract, which
probably eased his conscience considerably. Jensen continued to build big
Austin-Healey bodies until the very end and even as early as 1966 saw that
the 3000 was coming to an end, produced their own V8 powered sportscar
prototype called the P66 to take its place and to sell under their own name.
This was some years before both the Jensen-Healey and the V8 Jensen
Interceptor, but that, as they say is another story.

When the first Longbridge Austin-Healeys were produced they carried the BMC
model descriptor of 100 BN1. 

Time for breakfast.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Monday, 7 July 2014 9:11 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 6, Issue 281

 Just to clarify for my own understanding.

I think what Pat is saying is that if the vehicle was called a "Healey 100"
-- of which there was only 1, and then for only a very short time until the
portentious meeting at Earls Court between Donald and Len Lord -- it was not
a BN1.

But I'm pretty sure that the very first "Austin-Healey 100s" that were
produced and distributed for shows and to dealers, etc. were certainly BN1s,
because those were the first three characters of the number on the car
number plate.







When there was a Healey 100 there was no such thing as a BN1. Such model
designations as BN1 through to BJ8 were given by BMC as they were part of
the Corporations designation system.



Hoo Roo
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Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2014 17:30:25 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: varley@cosmos.net.au,  "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53B90155.6060700@cosmos.net.au>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Haven't driven a BN1, and only put a few miles on our BN2/100M but can tell it's more nimble than my BJ8.  However, I 
think the BJ8 is a better touring car because, let's face it, we probably spend 80+% of the time on freeways and 
straight-as-a-section-line highways, and the big 6 is sweet music for the long, straight (boring) roads, and serviceable 
on the twisties.  The 3.54 diff helps a lot, too.

Bob



On 7/6/2014 12:57 AM, Larry Varley wrote:
> I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I would propose that the only real Austin Healey 
> was the BN1, designed by Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who never made a decent car 
> after the 50's, just using what they had to keep producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad 
> design. The mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the engine? Oh dear. The BN2 with a extra gear in a 
> much heavier gearbox that really added no extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy engine and no 
> more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the balance of the car? Ok after that they added the 12 port head 
> to it, but the sixes at their best are really ponderous in the steering department relative to the BN1, which is a 
> nibble well balance car. I'm going so far as to use an alloy block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend handling 
> car and restore the weight balance. BMC basically self destructed, while the rest of the world moved forward, what a 
> shame.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: "Ron Fine" <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 19:34:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Voltage regulator for BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I need to replace my regulator on a 61 BN7, positive ground, generator.  I
was hoping that there was a modern solid state unit available to insert into
the original case.  Is there any information on the current availability of
such a solid state replacement?

Second question:  I am trying to determine if the original for my 61 BN7 had
screw or blade terminals?

Thanks for any information.

Ron Fine
West L.A.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: Ron Fine <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 02:44:57 +0000
References: <2F01A962F41B4EAFB481EF52FDBAAE6A@Dell660>
 FILETIME=[71182540:01CF998D]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Voltage regulator for BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Ron:

If my memory serves me right, there was someone who did a modern solid state
unit but he passed away a couple of years ago, perhaps other Listers will
remember that or the name of someone who may have taken over.

Originally I believe that your '61 BN7 would have had screw terminals.



Jean


> From: ronfineesq@earthlink.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 19:34:33 -0700
> Subject: [Healeys] Voltage regulator for BN7
>
> I need to replace my regulator on a 61 BN7, positive ground, generator. I
> was hoping that there was a modern solid state unit available to insert
into
> the original case. Is there any information on the current availability of
> such a solid state replacement?
>
> Second question: I am trying to determine if the original for my 61 BN7
had
> screw or blade terminals?
>
> Thanks for any information.
>
> Ron Fine
> West L.A.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:37 2018
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References: <2F01A962F41B4EAFB481EF52FDBAAE6A@Dell660>
 <BLU173-W146E7134258AF58FE5990DD10D0@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 20:13:48 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Voltage regulator for BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Correct. The guy going solid states passed and it has screw terminals

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
On Jul 6, 2014 7:44 PM, "Jean Caron" <
vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Ron:
>
> If my memory serves me right, there was someone who did a modern solid
> state
> unit but he passed away a couple of years ago, perhaps other Listers will
> remember that or the name of someone who may have taken over.
>
> Originally I believe that your '61 BN7 would have had screw terminals.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
> > From: ronfineesq@earthlink.net
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2014 19:34:33 -0700
> > Subject: [Healeys] Voltage regulator for BN7
> >
> > I need to replace my regulator on a  61 BN7, positive ground, generator.
> I
> > was hoping that there was a modern solid state unit available to insert
> into
> > the original case. Is there any information on the current availability
> of
> > such a solid state replacement?
> >
> > Second question: I am trying to determine if the original for my  61 BN7
> had
> > screw or blade terminals?
> >
> > Thanks for any information.
> >
> > Ron Fine
> > West L.A.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
> tmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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References: <53B90155.6060700@cosmos.net.au>
  <53B9EA21.1060205@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 08:09:16 +0100
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Lots of revisionism and 20/20 hindsight going on here.

I don't think people realise just how bad the British economy was after the
war. Debt to GDP was far higher than it is even in today's indebted times.
When the 100 rolled out there was still food rationing, and plenty of other
things were rationed as well. The formation of BMC was a good idea, the
formation of BL wasn't.

The 2 plus 2 was actually a pretty clever marketing move, and it was aimed
squarely at the US market. I believe there is still a German company called
Porsche that makes a reasonably successful car with 2 very small seats in
the back.

The 4 cylinder engine was to be discontinued in the rationalisation of
engines into the A, B & C classifications. The C series was already
designed by Morris. There was no money available for a new engine to be
developed for a relatively small production car like the Austin Healey.

Derek


On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 1:30 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Haven't driven a BN1, and only put a few miles on our BN2/100M but can
> tell it's more nimble than my BJ8.  However, I think the BJ8 is a better
> touring car because, let's face it, we probably spend 80+% of the time on
> freeways and straight-as-a-section-line highways, and the big 6 is sweet
> music for the long, straight (boring) roads, and serviceable on the
> twisties.  The 3.54 diff helps a lot, too.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> On 7/6/2014 12:57 AM, Larry Varley wrote:
>
>> I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I
>> would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed by
>> Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who never
>> made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to keep
>> producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad design. The
>> mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the engine? Oh dear.
>> The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really added no
>> extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy engine and no
>> more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the balance of the car?
>> Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but the sixes at their
>> best are really ponderous in the steering department relative to the BN1,
>> which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so far as to use an alloy
>> block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend handling car and restore the
>> weight balance. BMC basically self destructed, while the rest of the world
>> moved forward, what a shame.
>> Cheers
>> Larry Varley
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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Subject: [Healeys] 100 spark pkugs
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We will be tuning up a 100 soon & I need a recommendation for a set of spark
plugs for a stock 100 with points.
Gary Hodson
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 14:33:07 -0400
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I am trying to reattached the overdrive unit to the transmission of my
BJ7.  The two sets of splines in the overdrive are aligned properly and I
have used safety wire to wire down the pump plunger to it lowest position.

The overdrive is on the transmission studs and the ends of the stubs are
just at the rear face of the overdrive case, not enough to get a nut on but
close.  The housing of the overdrive is 3/16" away from the transmission
housing.

I have put grease on the end of the main-shaft, grease on the roller on top
of the pump plunger and grease on the bottom of the eccentric ring that
operates the pump plunger.

I have tapped on the drive flange (not banged), tried to twist the
overdrive, tried to shake it left/right/up/down and tried to rotate the
drive flange.  The transmission is in 4th so nothing moves. I have also
tried all of these with the transmission in neutral.  No luck with any of
that.

I have tried many, many times to seat the overdrive and it just will not go
together.  It is always just the 3/16' short of mating up.

What am I doing wrong?  What should I look for or do?

Fred
63 BJ7
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From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 20:39:18 +0200
References: <8D168154ED581B1-D98-CE04@webmail-d209.sysops.aol.com>
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
 milter-greylist-4.0 (smtpout2.bornet.net [148.160.16.68]); Mon, 07 Jul
 2014 20:39:27 +0200 (CEST)
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 spark pkugs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

NGK BP 5 ES

Magnus Karlsson
BorC%s Motor Corporation AB
www.concourshealeys.com

> 7 jul 2014 kl. 18:11 skrev warthodson@aol.com:
>
> We will be tuning up a 100 soon & I need a recommendation for a set of
spark
> plugs for a stock 100 with points.
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 20:41:57 +0200
References: <CAPAC+V5MjkZ+T=yZtt0oiWJwtKVaZZ8iZ+992eCx2_FYGrcOAA@mail.gmail.com>
To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
 milter-greylist-4.0 (smtpout2.bornet.net [148.160.16.68]); Mon, 07 Jul
 2014 20:42:06 +0200 (CEST)
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Try to turn the drive flange counter clockwise, slowly.

Magnus Karlsson
BorC%s Motor Corporation AB
www.concourshealeys.com

> 7 jul 2014 kl. 20:33 skrev Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>:
>
> I am trying to reattached the overdrive unit to the transmission of my
> BJ7.  The two sets of splines in the overdrive are aligned properly and I
> have used safety wire to wire down the pump plunger to it lowest position.
>
> The overdrive is on the transmission studs and the ends of the stubs are
> just at the rear face of the overdrive case, not enough to get a nut on but
> close.  The housing of the overdrive is 3/16" away from the transmission
> housing.
>
> I have put grease on the end of the main-shaft, grease on the roller on top
> of the pump plunger and grease on the bottom of the eccentric ring that
> operates the pump plunger.
>
> I have tapped on the drive flange (not banged), tried to twist the
> overdrive, tried to shake it left/right/up/down and tried to rotate the
> drive flange.  The transmission is in 4th so nothing moves. I have also
> tried all of these with the transmission in neutral.  No luck with any of
> that.
>
> I have tried many, many times to seat the overdrive and it just will not go
> together.  It is always just the 3/16' short of mating up.
>
> What am I doing wrong?  What should I look for or do?
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson@bornet.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Fred Wescoe'" <fredwescoe@gmail.com>, "'healeys'"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPAC+V5MjkZ+T=yZtt0oiWJwtKVaZZ8iZ+992eCx2_FYGrcOAA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 11:56:40 -0700
Thread-Index: AQKKxPBKZtGvso0H+GJMtxnURfx2V5oenCYQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

It is common for the two sets of splines to rotate out of position during
reassembly. The problem shows up as binding when you draw the OD closer to
the transmission. If you are absolutely sure that is not happening then you
need to use some clamps to draw the OD closer to the transmission.
Alternately you could remove the long bolts and use longer bolts to draw
them together.

John
'62 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Wescoe
Sent: Monday, July 7, 2014 11:33 AM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive

I am trying to reattached the overdrive unit to the transmission of my BJ7.
The two sets of splines in the overdrive are aligned properly and I have
used safety wire to wire down the pump plunger to it lowest position.

The overdrive is on the transmission studs and the ends of the stubs are
just at the rear face of the overdrive case, not enough to get a nut on but
close.  The housing of the overdrive is 3/16" away from the transmission
housing.

I have put grease on the end of the main-shaft, grease on the roller on top
of the pump plunger and grease on the bottom of the eccentric ring that
operates the pump plunger.

I have tapped on the drive flange (not banged), tried to twist the
overdrive, tried to shake it left/right/up/down and tried to rotate the
drive flange.  The transmission is in 4th so nothing moves. I have also
tried all of these with the transmission in neutral.  No luck with any of
that.

I have tried many, many times to seat the overdrive and it just will not go
together.  It is always just the 3/16' short of mating up.

What am I doing wrong?  What should I look for or do?

Fred
63 BJ7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 15:08:20 -0400
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi, does anyone have a very close equivalent to Coronet Cream in a modern
paint formula or car color match?

Non-list owner considering going back to original color but doesnt really
know what it looks like.

Randy
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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References: <F1D14AAD-ADB9-4A12-B313-F4E79288436A@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 12:12:02 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Randy,

Do you have, or have access to "Don Plikovnik's" binder on Austin Healey
colors?

Curt


On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 12:08 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi, does anyone have a very close equivalent to Coronet Cream in a modern
> paint formula or car color match?
>
> Non-list owner considering going back to original color but doesn t really
> know what it looks like.
>
> Randy
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 21:18:32 +0200
References: <CAPAC+V5MjkZ+T=yZtt0oiWJwtKVaZZ8iZ+992eCx2_FYGrcOAA@mail.gmail.com>
To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
 milter-greylist-4.0 (smtpout2.bornet.net [148.160.16.68]); Mon, 07 Jul
 2014 21:18:41 +0200 (CEST)
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Sorry, it should be counter clockwise.

Magnus Karlsson
BorC%s Motor Corporation AB
www.concourshealeys.com

> 7 jul 2014 kl. 20:33 skrev Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>:
>
> I am trying to reattached the overdrive unit to the transmission of my
> BJ7.  The two sets of splines in the overdrive are aligned properly and I
> have used safety wire to wire down the pump plunger to it lowest position.
>
> The overdrive is on the transmission studs and the ends of the stubs are
> just at the rear face of the overdrive case, not enough to get a nut on but
> close.  The housing of the overdrive is 3/16" away from the transmission
> housing.
>
> I have put grease on the end of the main-shaft, grease on the roller on top
> of the pump plunger and grease on the bottom of the eccentric ring that
> operates the pump plunger.
>
> I have tapped on the drive flange (not banged), tried to twist the
> overdrive, tried to shake it left/right/up/down and tried to rotate the
> drive flange.  The transmission is in 4th so nothing moves. I have also
> tried all of these with the transmission in neutral.  No luck with any of
> that.
>
> I have tried many, many times to seat the overdrive and it just will not go
> together.  It is always just the 3/16' short of mating up.
>
> What am I doing wrong?  What should I look for or do?
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson@bornet.net
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2014 13:34:18 -0600
From: David Porter <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.3; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPAC+V5MjkZ+T=yZtt0oiWJwtKVaZZ8iZ+992eCx2_FYGrcOAA@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

If all you say is and if the brass thrust washers are still 
centralized.. then you are not pulling the sides down equally. They have 
to be nearly identical in pull..
dave

On 7/7/2014 12:33 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> I am trying to reattached the overdrive unit to the transmission of my
> BJ7.  The two sets of splines in the overdrive are aligned properly and I
> have used safety wire to wire down the pump plunger to it lowest position.
>
> The overdrive is on the transmission studs and the ends of the stubs are
> just at the rear face of the overdrive case, not enough to get a nut on but
> close.  The housing of the overdrive is 3/16" away from the transmission
> housing.
>
> I have put grease on the end of the main-shaft, grease on the roller on top
> of the pump plunger and grease on the bottom of the eccentric ring that
> operates the pump plunger.
>
> I have tapped on the drive flange (not banged), tried to twist the
> overdrive, tried to shake it left/right/up/down and tried to rotate the
> drive flange.  The transmission is in 4th so nothing moves. I have also
> tried all of these with the transmission in neutral.  No luck with any of
> that.
>
> I have tried many, many times to seat the overdrive and it just will not go
> together.  It is always just the 3/16' short of mating up.
>
> What am I doing wrong?  What should I look for or do?
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM 
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 14:55:59 -0500
From: Neil Anderson <neilandcustom@gmail.com>
To: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

The ICI paint code for Coronet Cream is #2583, which is really what you
need to get the paint color correct.  Using the ICI number, you can order a
small touch-up bottle from APS Tower Paint Inc.
http://www.apstowerpaint.com/index.php   and then have a good auto paint
supplier do a color match in the paint system you want to use, or if they
can mix from the ICI paint code.

The paint from Tower is not necessarily cheap ($15 approx.), but it is
better to order a small amount to see if you like the color rather than
having a larger quantity mixed and be stuck with it.

Neil Anderson
'60 BT7
'59 Sprite project



On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 2:08 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi, does anyone have a very close equivalent to Coronet Cream in a modern
> paint formula or car color match?
>
> Non-list owner considering going back to original color but doesn t really
> know what it looks like.
>
> Randy
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom@gmail.com
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M@gmail.com>
References: <F1D14AAD-ADB9-4A12-B313-F4E79288436A@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 16:05:12 -0400
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys]  Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Randy

To see what it looks like, here is the Rinshead-Mason colour chip sheet from 
November 1954.  These sheets came out when the cars were still current.

(I'm aware the list strips pics, no need to remind me, folx)

Best
Peter 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Coronet Cream0178.jpg]
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: Randy Hicks <healey100m@gmail.com>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 20:40:59 +0000
References: <F1D14AAD-ADB9-4A12-B313-F4E79288436A@gmail.com>
 FILETIME=[C2B3A640:01CF9A23]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Randy:

At the risk of being chastised by the List, someone a while back mentioned to
me that the 2010 Kia Soul, Vanilla Cream colour was a very close modern
equivalent although I have not checked it myself.



Jean


> From: Healey100M@gmail.com
> Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 15:08:20 -0400
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
>
> Hi, does anyone have a very close equivalent to Coronet Cream in a modern
> paint formula or car color match?
>
> Non-list owner considering going back to original color but doesnt really
> know what it looks like.
>
> Randy
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:38 2018
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 14:01:58 -0700
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

found this list online
AUSTIN HEALEY ICI PAINT CODES BY MODEL AND MODEL YEAR

MODEL YEAR(S) 1953/54 AUSTIN HEALEY 100

BLACK 0122
OLD ENGLISH WHITE 2379
SPRUCE GREEN 2587
ICE BLUE 2697
CORONET CREAM 2583
CARMINE 8616


MODEL YEAR(S) 1955/56 AUSTIN HEALEY 100 & Le Mans

BLACK 0122
OLD ENGLISH WHITE 2379
SPRUCE GREEN 2587
FLORIDA GREEN 2997
RENO RED 3000
MET. ICE BLUE 2301m


MODEL YEAR(S) 1956/57 AUSTIN HEALEY 100-SIX

BLACK 0122
OLD ENGLISH WHITE 2379
FLORIDA GREEN 2997
RENO RED (to Dec. 1956) 3000
MET. ICE BLUE 2301m

Additional colours from Dec. 1956:-

PACIFIC GREEN 2659
PRIMROSE 3011
COLORADO RED (was Reno Red) 3742


MODEL YEAR(S) 1957/58 AUSTIN HEALEY 100-Six

BLACK 0122
OLD ENGLISH WHITE 2379
FLORIDA GREEN 2997
COLORADO RED 3742
MET. ICE BLUE 2301m
PACIFIC GREEN 2659
PRIMROSE 3011



MODEL YEAR(S) 1958/59 AUSTIN HEALEY 100-Six and 3000 (from July 59)

BLACK 0122
OLD ENGLISH WHITE/IVORY 2379
FLORIDA GREEN 2997
COLORADO RED 3742
MET. ICE BLUE 2301m
PACIFIC GREEN 2659
PRIMROSE 3011



MODEL YEAR(S) 1959/60 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000

BLACK 0122
OLD ENGLISH WHITE/IVORY 2379
FLORIDA GREEN 2997
COLORADO RED 3742
PACIFIC GREEN 2659
PRIMROSE 3011
MET. ICE BLUE 2301m



MODEL YEAR(S) 1960/61 AUSTIN HEALEY 3000

BLACK 0122
OLD ENGLISH WHITE/IVORY 2379
FLORIDA GREEN 2997
COLORADO RED 3742
MET. ICE BLUE 2301m
BRITISH RACING GREEN * 8120
*Special, used on a limited number of cars only


Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 12:12 PM, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com> wrote:

> Randy,
>
> Do you have, or have access to "Don Plikovnik's" binder on Austin Healey
> colors?
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 12:08 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi, does anyone have a very close equivalent to Coronet Cream in a modern
> > paint formula or car color match?
> >
> > Non-list owner considering going back to original color but doesn t
> really
> > know what it looks like.
> >
> > Randy
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <F1D14AAD-ADB9-4A12-B313-F4E79288436A@gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeTPnckH1cT5=D6rGJnpKKEXUGRa5ThjX2y09SLqJeKdiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2014 17:08:50 -0400
Thread-index: AQJnrI8sWWZGGqrPb1IQlDPrMwrAswJsyDE8mlGPxCA=
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

According to don's book, the ICI code is 2583

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curtis
Arndt
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 3:12 PM
To: Randy Hicks
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream

Randy,

Do you have, or have access to "Don Plikovnik's" binder on Austin Healey
colors?

Curt


On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 12:08 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi, does anyone have a very close equivalent to Coronet Cream in a 
> modern paint formula or car color match?
>
> Non-list owner considering going back to original color but doesn t 
> really know what it looks like.
>
> Randy
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 14:16:17 -0700
From: jomar healey <ah53@yahoo.com>
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

#923 

 #923 was painted PPG MAE 3897 Medium Sand Beige.  My wheel wells still
carry the original color and the match is excellent to me.  If you go to the
British car forum and search coronet cream a picture of my car will appear in
the tread along with other suggestions.

Joe
'53 BN1 Coronet Cream
'56 100M
'67 BJ8 aka Blue Baby as per wife and kid


On Monday, July 7, 2014 5:08 PM,
John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
 


According to don's book, the ICI code
is 2583

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original
Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Curtis
Arndt
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 3:12 PM
To: Randy Hicks
Cc: Healey
List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream

Randy,

Do you have, or have access
to "Don Plikovnik's" binder on Austin Healey
colors?

Curt


On Mon, Jul 7,
2014 at 12:08 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi, does anyone
have a very close equivalent to Coronet Cream in a 
> modern paint formula or
car color match?
>
> Non-list owner considering going back to original color
but doesn t 
> really know what it looks like.
>
> Randy
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
> donation  $12.75
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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_______________________________________________
Archive:
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah53@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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 Jul 2014 22:24:02 +0000 UTC
From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>, "Fred Wescoe"
 <fredwescoe@gmail.com>, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAPAC+V5MjkZ+T=yZtt0oiWJwtKVaZZ8iZ+992eCx2_FYGrcOAA@mail.gmail.com>
 <53BAF63A.1040208@porterscustom.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 15:23:59 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

What ever you do DO NOT pull the overdrive and transmission together with 
the long bolts. I have sold many overdrive housings to people that have done 
just that and snapped off the tang on the adaptor plate.
The best way to do it is have two large channel lock pliers and squeeze the 
to together. If the do not go together this way pull the overdrive off re 
align the splines and then set the overdrive onto the transmission.
This is usually a 2 or 3 person job. Just be patient because if you have to 
force it there is something wrong.

Lay a couple of 2 x 4 s on the ground and stand the transmission on the bell 
housing. Then line up the splines of the overdrive and place the overdrive 
onto the transmission, try to set the splines on the shaft and the ones in 
the overdrive in the correct alignment so that you do not have to turn the 
rear flange the least as possible. Them squeeze the two together by HAND not 
with the long studs.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: David Porter
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:34 PM
To: Fred Wescoe ; healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive

If all you say is and if the brass thrust washers are still
centralized.. then you are not pulling the sides down equally. They have
to be nearly identical in pull..
dave

On 7/7/2014 12:33 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> I am trying to reattached the overdrive unit to the transmission of my
> BJ7.  The two sets of splines in the overdrive are aligned properly and I
> have used safety wire to wire down the pump plunger to it lowest position.
>
> The overdrive is on the transmission studs and the ends of the stubs are
> just at the rear face of the overdrive case, not enough to get a nut on 
> but
> close.  The housing of the overdrive is 3/16" away from the transmission
> housing.
>
> I have put grease on the end of the main-shaft, grease on the roller on 
> top
> of the pump plunger and grease on the bottom of the eccentric ring that
> operates the pump plunger.
>
> I have tapped on the drive flange (not banged), tried to twist the
> overdrive, tried to shake it left/right/up/down and tried to rotate the
> drive flange.  The transmission is in 4th so nothing moves. I have also
> tried all of these with the transmission in neutral.  No luck with any of
> that.
>
> I have tried many, many times to seat the overdrive and it just will not 
> go
> together.  It is always just the 3/16' short of mating up.
>
> What am I doing wrong?  What should I look for or do?
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye@porterscustom.com
>
>
>

-- 
Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM
87107 505-352-1378 Go HERE: my world www.porterbikes.com/
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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References: <F1D14AAD-ADB9-4A12-B313-F4E79288436A@gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeTPnckH1cT5=D6rGJnpKKEXUGRa5ThjX2y09SLqJeKdiQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <003701cf9a27$a6974fd0$f3c5ef70$@verizon.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 19:08:05 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

We had a very interesting discussion about Coronet Cream and its origins
here:
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?95152-Coronet-Cream&highlight=coronet
The debate was whether it had any relation to the coronation of Queen
Elizabeth, and I'm firmly in that camp.  IIRC, Rich Chrysler either owned a
Coronet Cream car or was involved in its restoration.  Would have loved to
hear his input.

Cheers,
Rick


On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 5:08 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> According to don's book, the ICI code is 2583
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Arndt
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 3:12 PM
> To: Randy Hicks
> Cc: Healey List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
>
> Randy,
>
> Do you have, or have access to "Don Plikovnik's" binder on Austin Healey
> colors?
>
> Curt
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 12:08 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi, does anyone have a very close equivalent to Coronet Cream in a
> > modern paint formula or car color match?
> >
> > Non-list owner considering going back to original color but doesn t
> > really know what it looks like.
> >
> > Randy
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> > donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 00:01:43 +0000
References: <F1D14AAD-ADB9-4A12-B313-F4E79288436A@gmail.com>,
 <CAJKrNeTPnckH1cT5=D6rGJnpKKEXUGRa5ThjX2y09SLqJeKdiQ@mail.gmail.com>,
 <003701cf9a27$a6974fd0$f3c5ef70$@verizon.net>,
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 FILETIME=[CDDBB960:01CF9A3F]
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Listers:
We Canadians know for sure that the colour of Coronet Cream had a lot to do
with the solemn coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, also know in some camp as
Betty Windsor.
According to documentation from l'Oreal of England, purveyers to her Majesty's
Health Care merchandise, dated June 2nd, 1953, the date she was crowned,
Coronet Cream automotive colour is from a palette sample from the combination
of the concealer and foundation applied to her Majesty's face that day. As a
matter of fact, her Majesty made reference to the colour whilst visiting the
Austin-Healey factory a few weeks after her Coronation, by telling Donald
Healey, upon seeing a Coronet Cream Austin-Healey in the showroom: "I can see
my face in it"
It's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Jean

> Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 19:08:05 -0400
> From: healeyrik@gmail.com
> To: ahbn6@verizon.net
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
>
> We had a very interesting discussion about Coronet Cream and its origins
> here:
>
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?95152-Coronet-Cream&highlig
ht=coronet
> The debate was whether it had any relation to the coronation of Queen
> Elizabeth, and I'm firmly in that camp. IIRC, Rich Chrysler either owned a
> Coronet Cream car or was involved in its restoration. Would have loved to
> hear his input.
>
> Cheers,
> Rick
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 5:08 PM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> > According to don's book, the ICI code is 2583
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> > www.healey6.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curtis
> > Arndt
> > Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 3:12 PM
> > To: Randy Hicks
> > Cc: Healey List
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
> >
> > Randy,
> >
> > Do you have, or have access to "Don Plikovnik's" binder on Austin Healey
> > colors?
> >
> > Curt
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 12:08 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
wrote:
> >
> > > Hi, does anyone have a very close equivalent to Coronet Cream in a
> > > modern paint formula or car color match?
> > >
> > > Non-list owner considering going back to original color but doesn t
> > > really know what it looks like.
> > >
> > > Randy
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> > > donation $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
> > $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
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Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Fred, 



Did you align the splines by eyeball or did you use a dummy shaft or even a spare o/d shaft to align them? 



Did you pass the mainshaft through both sets of splines prior to assembly of the overdrive , just to make sure everything fit? 



Was this overdrive a unit before you rebuilt it, or was it a bunch of parts? 



The only time I ever has a problem like the one you describe was when the splines simply would not accept the overdrive shaft. That's why I always test both pieces on the shaft before I assemble the overdrive. 



I'd strongly suggest you prove that the splines are aligned and undamaged by the use of a dummy shaft, not eyesight. 



Ed Woods 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 20:49:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Great story, Jean.  Never heard that before. The 1953 Coronation of Queen
Elizabeth II was the first time a coronation was filmed in colour, and no
doubt some special consideration was given to her makeup.

The colour chips on the page sent to Randy were sub-labeled with the model of
Austin car the colour was used on ( ie: Copper Fawn: A-40 Somerset).  Coronet
Cream was labeled "Coronation Color 1953".

The formula for C.C. used only three toners: white, a dash of burnt sienna and
a dash of black.  R-M often gave a "reference colour", a similar American one,
and in this case it was "Canyon Beige 1959 DeSoto".

The colour itself is - ah - interesting.   Not the first one that comes to
mind on hearing the word "cream".   The car at Rich's shop was indeed in its
original C.C.   As Geoffrey Healey said, "the quality of modern painwork is
far superior to what we used back in the day".  It was dull, faded in places,
rubbed through in others.  Wonderful that it survived intact all these years
without someone "improving" the car's very special paintwork.

BTW, families of children born that year in the UK were given a large heavy
commemorative coin in a case. My younger brother got one, and we still have
it.

Best
Peter
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References: <3914EDE44B114335AE70F897A1A38542@Mike>
 <46E28DD1-3D14-48D9-8BF3-7A553A5B19A2@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 20:56:16 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

While we are suggesting possible modern similar colours there is a cream
colour on the Ford Edge that looks very close to what I think of as CC but
my colour sense (and spelling for those of you in the U.S.) isn't that
great..any thoughts?

Michael S
BN1 #174 (in Healey Grey)


On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 8:32 PM, Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com> wrote:

> FYI  Kia color doesn't look to bad. May be a touch lighter?
>
> Randy
>
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> *From: *"Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
> *Date: *July 7, 2014 5:18:40 PM EDT
> *To: *"Randy Hicks" <Healey100M@gmail.com>
> *Subject: **Re: [Healeys] Coronet Cream*
>
>
>
> Randy--FWIW,  you might look at these two sites.
>
> http://www.decisivemagazine.com/2010-kia-soul-review
>
> and
>
>
> http://www.e-typecenter.com/en/cars/1954-austin-healey-100-4-coronet-cream.html
>
> Mike
> BN2
>
> ====================================
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Hicks" <Healey100M@gmail.com>
> To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2014 12:08 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Coronet Cream
>
>
>
> Hi, does anyone have a very close equivalent to Coronet Cream in a modern
>
> paint formula or car color match?
>
>
> Non-list owner considering going back to original color but doesn t really
>
> know what it looks like.
>
>
> Randy
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From: "Paul Blake" <brumby1009@gmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 11:13:31 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac+aDXZ6eonelZvaSM6pot3Hj9bFPQALAz0QAAQDPKA=
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Ron

In my view an original Lucas regulator is a better bet than a solid state
job.  Find an old school auto electrician (they are around and love working
on old stuff) and get them to refurbish your Lucas regulator and set it up
correctly.  They are tough units and will give good service for years and
years. If they do play up on the road you can at least adjust them to get
you home.  The important thing is to buy the right one.  They all have the
same model number (RB106/2) but the part number (usually stamped on the
side) tells you the amp rating. Healeys must have a 30 amp unit whereas most
MGs and Triumphs etc have smaller amp regulators.

Paul
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 21:24:42 -0400
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Regarding Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Thanks to all that responded. I think the owner has a direction from the input
of The List".

For reference, in the AHCA 100 Registry I show 31 Coronet Cream cars recorded.
17 with blue trim, 11 with red trim and 3 unknown.

The first "Fawn (if this is in fact Coronet Cream) car was body #215, built
mid Sept. '53, although I have body #121, built mid August '53 recorded as a
Coronet Cream car. The last Coronet Cream car recorded is body #2344, built
March 1, 1954.

Above data is based on owner input.

Randy
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 18:28:42 -0700
References: <PdR01o01C0NyJgq01dR1z6>
To: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Regarding Coronet Cream
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

 put http://    in front of this: i57.tinypic.com/2mqw2z8.jpg

On Jul 7, 2014, at 6:24 PM, Randy Hicks wrote:

> Thanks to all that responded. I think the owner has a direction from the
input
> of The List".
>
> For reference, in the AHCA 100 Registry I show 31 Coronet Cream cars
recorded.
> 17 with blue trim, 11 with red trim and 3 unknown.
>
> The first "Fawn (if this is in fact Coronet Cream) car was body #215,
built
> mid Sept. '53, although I have body #121, built mid August '53 recorded as
a
> Coronet Cream car. The last Coronet Cream car recorded is body #2344, built
> March 1, 1954.
>
> Above data is based on owner input.
>
> Randy
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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References: <53B90155.6060700@cosmos.net.au> <53B9EA21.1060205@comcast.net>
 <CAAh8etmH5y85rX3ZTfYateyBNpjOH1q-nk0JDoG8WhHW5P3Nrg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 16:31:55 +1000
From: Keith Taylor <ktee20@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

THE LIST IS ALIVE AGAIN
When some wowser declared "FRIDAY FUNNIES" not Kosher a couple of years ago
the traffic dwindled
Why was one opinion so detrimental to the traffic volume If you think back
I am sure the number of posts slowly halved
I for one would log in just for the Funnies & get caught up in current
topics , Not wait until I had an assembly issue before
I logged on.

Keith Taylor
Umina Beach  OZ

BN1
BN2




On 7 July 2014 17:09, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Lots of revisionism and 20/20 hindsight going on here.
>
> I don't think people realise just how bad the British economy was after the
> war. Debt to GDP was far higher than it is even in today's indebted times.
> When the 100 rolled out there was still food rationing, and plenty of other
> things were rationed as well. The formation of BMC was a good idea, the
> formation of BL wasn't.
>
> The 2 plus 2 was actually a pretty clever marketing move, and it was aimed
> squarely at the US market. I believe there is still a German company called
> Porsche that makes a reasonably successful car with 2 very small seats in
> the back.
>
> The 4 cylinder engine was to be discontinued in the rationalisation of
> engines into the A, B & C classifications. The C series was already
> designed by Morris. There was no money available for a new engine to be
> developed for a relatively small production car like the Austin Healey.
>
> Derek
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 7, 2014 at 1:30 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Haven't driven a BN1, and only put a few miles on our BN2/100M but can
> > tell it's more nimble than my BJ8.  However, I think the BJ8 is a better
> > touring car because, let's face it, we probably spend 80+% of the time on
> > freeways and straight-as-a-section-line highways, and the big 6 is sweet
> > music for the long, straight (boring) roads, and serviceable on the
> > twisties.  The 3.54 diff helps a lot, too.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 7/6/2014 12:57 AM, Larry Varley wrote:
> >
> >> I think it's time that the list had a healthy debate, and some fun. I
> >> would propose that the only real Austin Healey was the BN1, designed by
> >> Donald Healey and Gerry Coker. Everything after that was BMC, who never
> >> made a decent car after the 50's, just using what they had to keep
> >> producing the cars, that were for some part good ideas, but bad design.
> The
> >> mini was a great idea, but mix the gearbox oil with the engine? Oh dear.
> >> The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really added no
> >> extra performance, then the 100-6 with that horribly heavy engine and no
> >> more grunt. Why would anyone do that, and just ruin the balance of the
> car?
> >> Ok after that they added the 12 port head to it, but the sixes at their
> >> best are really ponderous in the steering department relative to the
> BN1,
> >> which is a nibble well balance car. I'm going so far as to use an alloy
> >> block in my BT7 to turn it back into a descend handling car and restore
> the
> >> weight balance. BMC basically self destructed, while the rest of the
> world
> >> moved forward, what a shame.
> >> Cheers
> >> Larry Varley
> >> _______________________________________________
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > --
> > *******************************************************************
> > Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
> >
> > *******************************************************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> > options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ktee20@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 10:03:12 +0200
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Thread-Index: Ac+agxBoZp+8rf9+RRygu+UchwenOQ==
References: <01ac01cf9a49$d77f2d80$867d8880$@com>
From: "Thomas Willig" <twillig@ruda.de>
To: "Paul Blake" <brumby1009@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I had regulator problems on my BN2 for nearly one year. My findings / opinions
are now:

-Do not buy a new regulator -The quality is catastrophic! I went through three
of them and not one of them worked for a longer period.

-A good thing is to try and get a NOS Lucas RB106 - the ones that were
produced in Merry Old England.

-I had an old RB106 convertet to solid state technologie. Very good result,
reliable and the charging starts already at 800 rpm. The times of a dimly
glowing charging lamp up to 1200 rpm are over!

Regards


Thomas Willig



-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Paul Blake [mailto:brumby1009@gmail.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 8. Juli 2014 03:14
An: healeys@autox.team.net
Betreff: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7

Ron

In my view an original Lucas regulator is a better bet than a solid state job.
Find an old school auto electrician (they are around and love working on old
stuff) and get them to refurbish your Lucas regulator and set it up correctly.
They are tough units and will give good service for years and years. If they
do play up on the road you can at least adjust them to get you home.  The
important thing is to buy the right one.  They all have the same model number
(RB106/2) but the part number (usually stamped on the
side) tells you the amp rating. Healeys must have a 30 amp unit whereas most
MGs and Triumphs etc have smaller amp regulators.

Paul
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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From: Magnus Karlsson <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 11:12:52 +0200
References: <01ac01cf9a49$d77f2d80$867d8880$@com>
 <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160224E4E5@dw01.ruda.local>
To: Thomas Willig <twillig@ruda.de>
 milter-greylist-4.0 (smtpout2.bornet.net [148.160.16.68]); Tue, 08 Jul
 2014 11:13:03 +0200 (CEST)
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Where did you have it converted?

Magnus Karlsson
BorC%s Motor Corporation AB
www.concourshealeys.com

> 8 jul 2014 kl. 10:03 skrev "Thomas Willig" <twillig@ruda.de>:
>
> I had regulator problems on my BN2 for nearly one year. My findings /
opinions
> are now:
>
> -Do not buy a new regulator -The quality is catastrophic! I went through
three
> of them and not one of them worked for a longer period.
>
> -A good thing is to try and get a NOS Lucas RB106 - the ones that were
> produced in Merry Old England.
>
> -I had an old RB106 convertet to solid state technologie. Very good result,
> reliable and the charging starts already at 800 rpm. The times of a dimly
> glowing charging lamp up to 1200 rpm are over!
>
> Regards
>
>
> Thomas Willig
>
>
>
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Paul Blake [mailto:brumby1009@gmail.com]
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 8. Juli 2014 03:14
> An: healeys@autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
>
> Ron
>
> In my view an original Lucas regulator is a better bet than a solid state
job.
> Find an old school auto electrician (they are around and love working on
old
> stuff) and get them to refurbish your Lucas regulator and set it up
correctly.
> They are tough units and will give good service for years and years. If
they
> do play up on the road you can at least adjust them to get you home.  The
> important thing is to buy the right one.  They all have the same model
number
> (RB106/2) but the part number (usually stamped on the
> side) tells you the amp rating. Healeys must have a 30 amp unit whereas
most
> MGs and Triumphs etc have smaller amp regulators.
>
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson@bornet.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 11:38:38 +0200
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Thread-Index: Ac+ajvQ937Mx2y0gR1eEvixRhoQabQAATWZg
References: <01ac01cf9a49$d77f2d80$867d8880$@com>
 <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160224E4E5@dw01.ruda.local>
 <8EDC2C59-2DEE-4BF6-8038-DEFDB78A9E45@bornet.net>
From: "Thomas Willig" <twillig@ruda.de>
To: "Magnus Karlsson" <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

There is a specialist in Germany whom I have used several times. See his homepage here:

http://www.edknet.de

If you need assistance -don't know if they talk English- drop me a note.

B 
Thomas Willig


-----UrsprC<ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Magnus Karlsson [mailto:magnuskarlsson@bornet.net] 
Gesendet: Dienstag, 8. Juli 2014 11:13
An: Thomas Willig
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7

Where did you have it converted?

Magnus Karlsson
BorC%s Motor Corporation AB
www.concourshealeys.com

> 8 jul 2014 kl. 10:03 skrev "Thomas Willig" <twillig@ruda.de>:
> 
> I had regulator problems on my BN2 for nearly one year. My findings / 
> opinions are now:
> 
> -Do not buy a new regulator -The quality is catastrophic! I went 
> through three of them and not one of them worked for a longer period.
> 
> -A good thing is to try and get a NOS Lucas RB106 - the ones that were 
> produced in Merry Old England.
> 
> -I had an old RB106 convertet to solid state technologie. Very good 
> result, reliable and the charging starts already at 800 rpm. The times 
> of a dimly glowing charging lamp up to 1200 rpm are over!
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Thomas Willig
> 
> 
> 
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Paul Blake [mailto:brumby1009@gmail.com]
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 8. Juli 2014 03:14
> An: healeys@autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
> 
> Ron
> 
> In my view an original Lucas regulator is a better bet than a solid state job.
> Find an old school auto electrician (they are around and love working 
> on old
> stuff) and get them to refurbish your Lucas regulator and set it up correctly.
> They are tough units and will give good service for years and years. 
> If they do play up on the road you can at least adjust them to get you 
> home.  The important thing is to buy the right one.  They all have the 
> same model number
> (RB106/2) but the part number (usually stamped on the
> side) tells you the amp rating. Healeys must have a 30 amp unit 
> whereas most MGs and Triumphs etc have smaller amp regulators.
> 
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson@bornet.ne
> t
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 11:41:03 +0200
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Thread-Index: Ac+ajvQ937Mx2y0gR1eEvixRhoQabQAAaNDg
References: <01ac01cf9a49$d77f2d80$867d8880$@com>
 <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160224E4E5@dw01.ruda.local>
 <8EDC2C59-2DEE-4BF6-8038-DEFDB78A9E45@bornet.net>
From: "Thomas Willig" <twillig@ruda.de>
To: "Magnus Karlsson" <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

..pictures of converted Lucas units here:

http://www.edknet.de/archiv6.htm

(No financial interest...from my side, just a satified customer))

B 
Thomas Willig


-----UrsprC<ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Magnus Karlsson [mailto:magnuskarlsson@bornet.net] 
Gesendet: Dienstag, 8. Juli 2014 11:13
An: Thomas Willig
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7

Where did you have it converted?

Magnus Karlsson
BorC%s Motor Corporation AB
www.concourshealeys.com

> 8 jul 2014 kl. 10:03 skrev "Thomas Willig" <twillig@ruda.de>:
> 
> I had regulator problems on my BN2 for nearly one year. My findings / 
> opinions are now:
> 
> -Do not buy a new regulator -The quality is catastrophic! I went 
> through three of them and not one of them worked for a longer period.
> 
> -A good thing is to try and get a NOS Lucas RB106 - the ones that were 
> produced in Merry Old England.
> 
> -I had an old RB106 convertet to solid state technologie. Very good 
> result, reliable and the charging starts already at 800 rpm. The times 
> of a dimly glowing charging lamp up to 1200 rpm are over!
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Thomas Willig
> 
> 
> 
> -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
> Von: Paul Blake [mailto:brumby1009@gmail.com]
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 8. Juli 2014 03:14
> An: healeys@autox.team.net
> Betreff: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
> 
> Ron
> 
> In my view an original Lucas regulator is a better bet than a solid state job.
> Find an old school auto electrician (they are around and love working 
> on old
> stuff) and get them to refurbish your Lucas regulator and set it up correctly.
> They are tough units and will give good service for years and years. 
> If they do play up on the road you can at least adjust them to get you 
> home.  The important thing is to buy the right one.  They all have the 
> same model number
> (RB106/2) but the part number (usually stamped on the
> side) tells you the amp rating. Healeys must have a 30 amp unit 
> whereas most MGs and Triumphs etc have smaller amp regulators.
> 
> Paul
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/magnuskarlsson@bornet.ne
> t
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 12:53:34 +0100
From: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
Organization: Summa Ventures Ltd
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To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
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Bob,

On 06/07/2014 12:49, Robert F. Begani wrote:
In actual fact, British lost WW1 and WW2 because they were
> financially exhausted after 1945 and did not recover fully until the 1980's.

I think a better way of putting it is that we won both wars (although not as
much on our own as we sometimes like to portray it), but we also lost the wars
because as a result of WW1 a whole generation of men of working age from all
stratas of society had been lost. As a result we were already weakened going
into WW2. The UK was of course largely dependent on a far-flung Empire. The war
at sea strained our ability to exploit our resources to best advantage
> The economic assistance the USA provided the British was with war and war
> machines. For all practical purposes, it stopped after the war. 

True.
 In
> addition, the country turned to Labor. The Social policies of the new
> government required enormous amounts of money and none to repair the war
> torn industries and infrastructure of the country. 

I don't think that it is right to conflate the two. After WW1 there was the
promise of "a land fit for heroes" after a "War to end all War"...that didn't
materialise. After WW2 There was a perceived need among the populace to take
steps to ensure a fairer and juster society and a desire for a complete change
that brought Labour to power, for right or wrong. Hence the implementation of
things like the National Health Service, The Education Act and so on...

Actually that was not unique to this country. You must also compare the feelings
in France and other countries where there was a similar attitude. Ultimately
this lead to the creation of the Coal and Steel Union whigh later became the
European Community, but that is another story except to say that its point was
to make Germany so bound to the rest of Europe that it would be impossible for
her if she were to go to war with her neighbours again.

.... When we discussed what
> happened and that I was surprised the phone system was so antiquated, he
> reminded me that they did, in fact, lose the war.

There was a huge amount of money poured into housing and rebuilding factories,
but we were bust. What we didn't do adequately was to put money into the
railways and to manufacturing.  In addition the UK's markets (in effect the
Empire plus to a limited degree the rest of Europe and the US - in that order)
were changing as a result of the war and we had a very hard trying to handle
that and civil wars and revolutions within the empire.

With regard to phones... Proper modern phone exchanges didn't really start to be
implemented here until System X in the 80s. We are still substantially behind
other countries in investment in broadband bandwidth because govt adopted a
strategy in the 80s that would turn out to be unresponsive to technological
change, a fact that could have been forseen at the time and forestalled.

> 
> The USA Marshall Plan invested billions of dollars in Europe, but,  very
> little in Britain.  

To be precise it was offered, but Churchill turned the offer down. Partly I
think pride, partly a lack of understanding of the real cost of the war and
partly possibly the terms offered.

  So the economies of the northern Europe benefited from
> the Marshal Plan  expanded greatly in the period after the war .... 
It is called the Economic Miracle of the 60's and 70's.

In particular the French had "les trentes glorieuses" the thirty years of growth
which lasted from approximately 1950 - 1980.


> 
> In Southern Europe, there was also an economic upswing due to the fact that
> 10's of thousands of Italian, Southern French, Spanish and Portuguese and
> others flooded into Germany and northern Europe to work in the factories.
> They sent money home to be invested in rebuilding the infrastructure of
> their countries by buying fixing up houses and buying locally their needs.
> The trickle-down theory of economics.

We as an island race were never that mobile in Europe historically and thought
that we could work at home, rebuild the economic strength of the Empire, even as
the Commonwealth, and return to our previous glories. It didn't happen, not
least because technologies and markets changed. Bear in mind that we were still
a major force in innovation in areas such as aviation throughout the 50s and
with Concord(e) into the 80s and beyond.

BMC was in the same boat as so many other car manufacturers, suffering from poor
management, poor resources and raw materials and a small market. Ultimately it
would suffer too from social discontent as things began to improve, albeit only
for some areas of society (think Swinging Sixties etc).

As for France that recoverd gradually with sustained growth, Italy is still
dysfunctional, disorganised and lacking in a sense of identity. The economic
winner, thus far at least, is Germany but even there half of it suffered under
Communist occupation. for forty years after the war.

We can always discuss this off-line if you like!

Peter

-- 

===========================================================
Dr Peter Dzwig				
_______________________________________________
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Keith Taylor'" <ktee20@gmail.com>, "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53B90155.6060700@cosmos.net.au> <53B9EA21.1060205@comcast.net>
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I miss the Friday funnies too.

John Spaur
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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I wasn't aware FF had been exorcised from the List. I can't believe any LBC owner is that thin-skinned (skinned knuckles, for sure). 

Who authorized such blasphemy? 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----

From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> 
To: "Keith Taylor" <ktee20@gmail.com>, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 8:51:16 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys 

I miss the Friday funnies too. 

John Spaur 
_______________________________________________ 
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Yeah!  As I recall, one person, maybe two, complained.  To start things off 
a little early, here is a Tuesday Teaser from the Ron Owens radio show in 
2006 as submitted by Liz in Petaluma:

A Living Will

A  man and his wife were sitting in the living room and he said  to her, 
"Just so you know, I never want to live in a vegetative state,  dependent 
on some machine and fluids from a bottle. If that ever happens, just pull 
the plug."

His  wife  got  up,  unplugged  the TV and threw out all of his  beer


I say, Friday Funnies Forever!

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

---
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys


>I wasn't aware FF had been exorcised from the List. I can't believe any LBC 
>owner is that thin-skinned (skinned knuckles, for sure).
>
> Who authorized such blasphemy?
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Keith Taylor" <ktee20@gmail.com>, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 8:51:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
> I miss the Friday funnies too.
>
> John Spaur
> _______________________________________________
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To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
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OH NO!!!!    The dreaded Friday Funnies.....

What is wrong with them?    Should be Tuesday and Thursday.

Bob


PS:  I have a fully functional delete key that gets a lot of use here and at 
other lists/groups.


On 7/8/2014 11:53 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> I wasn't aware FF had been exorcised from the List. I can't believe any LBC owner is that thin-skinned (skinned knuckles, for sure).
>
> Who authorized such blasphemy?
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Keith Taylor" <ktee20@gmail.com>, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 8:51:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
> I miss the Friday funnies too.
>
> John Spaur
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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 Tue, 08 Jul 2014 12:06:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Len and/or Marge Hartnett'" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>, "'AH
 Mail List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53B90155.6060700@cosmos.net.au> <53B9EA21.1060205@comcast.net>
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 13:05:56 -0400
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Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

As I remember, some of them got a little too political.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len
and/or Marge Hartnett
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 12:18 PM
To: AH Mail List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys

Yeah!  As I recall, one person, maybe two, complained.  To start things off
a little early, here is a Tuesday Teaser from the Ron Owens radio show in
2006 as submitted by Liz in Petaluma:

A Living Will

A  man and his wife were sitting in the living room and he said  to her,
"Just so you know, I never want to live in a vegetative state,  dependent on
some machine and fluids from a bottle. If that ever happens, just pull the
plug."

His  wife  got  up,  unplugged  the TV and threw out all of his  beer


I say, Friday Funnies Forever!

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys


>I wasn't aware FF had been exorcised from the List. I can't believe any LBC

>owner is that thin-skinned (skinned knuckles, for sure).
>
> Who authorized such blasphemy?
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "Keith Taylor" <ktee20@gmail.com>, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 8:51:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
> I miss the Friday funnies too.
>
> John Spaur
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 11:01:27 -0700
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

and racist and xenophobic. Some folks do not have filters for understanding
the impact of such jokes on others IMHO.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 10:05 AM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> As I remember, some of them got a little too political.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len
> and/or Marge Hartnett
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 12:18 PM
> To: AH Mail List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
> Yeah!  As I recall, one person, maybe two, complained.  To start things off
> a little early, here is a Tuesday Teaser from the Ron Owens radio show in
> 2006 as submitted by Liz in Petaluma:
>
> A Living Will
>
> A  man and his wife were sitting in the living room and he said  to her,
> "Just so you know, I never want to live in a vegetative state,  dependent
> on
> some machine and fluids from a bottle. If that ever happens, just pull the
> plug."
>
> His  wife  got  up,  unplugged  the TV and threw out all of his  beer
>
>
> I say, Friday Funnies Forever!
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
> ---
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 8:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
>
> >I wasn't aware FF had been exorcised from the List. I can't believe any
> LBC
>
> >owner is that thin-skinned (skinned knuckles, for sure).
> >
> > Who authorized such blasphemy?
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> > From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> > To: "Keith Taylor" <ktee20@gmail.com>, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net
> >
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 8:51:16 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
> >
> > I miss the Friday funnies too.
> >
> > John Spaur
> > _______________________________________________
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 14:06:56 -0400
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I am changing my clutch assembly and having trouble getting the flywheel
assembly off to access the Spigot/Pilot bushing which I want to replace. The
flywheel turns and won't let me loosen the 4 bolts. (I don't have access to
pneumatic tools which would probably do the trick.)

Any suggestions?

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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To: 050.rpl@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Price,  Use a heavy hammer to strike the opposite end of a box end
wrench with heavy blows.  The box end being on the bolt head of course.
  The shock of the blow should loosen the bolts.  Have done this many
times on hard to loosen bolts on objects that are not anchored
securely.

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 8, 2014 2:08 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal


I am changing my clutch assembly and having trouble getting the flywheel
assembly off to access the Spigot/Pilot bushing which I want to
replace. The
flywheel turns and won't let me loosen the 4 bolts. (I don't have
access to
pneumatic tools which would probably do the trick.)

Any suggestions?

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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To: bighealey3k@aim.com, 050.rpl@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

If a box end wrench doesn't fit, use a socket and breaker bar in the
same way.
Larry


-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
To: 050.rpl <050.rpl@gmail.com>; healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 8, 2014 2:18 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal


Price,  Use a heavy hammer to strike the opposite end of a box end
wrench with heavy blows.  The box end being on the bolt head of course.
  The shock of the blow should loosen the bolts.  Have done this many
times on hard to loosen bolts on objects that are not anchored
securely.

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 8, 2014 2:08 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal


I am changing my clutch assembly and having trouble getting the flywheel
assembly off to access the Spigot/Pilot bushing which I want to
replace. The
flywheel turns and won't let me loosen the 4 bolts. (I don't have
access to
pneumatic tools which would probably do the trick.)

Any suggestions?

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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References: <1C31A50D-135A-46E0-80A1-0DC8E49CD256@gmail.com>
 <8D168F02D060070-4C38-14FB3@webmail-d225.sysops.aol.com>
From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 15:02:05 -0400
To: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Thanks Larry,  they came loose as advertised.

Now to figure out how to get the bush out without taking anything else off.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 8, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com> wrote:
>
> Price,  Use a heavy hammer to strike the opposite end of a box end wrench
with heavy blows.  The box end being on the bolt head of course.  The shock of
the blow should loosen the bolts.  Have done this many times on hard to loosen
bolts on objects that are not anchored securely.
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
> To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Jul 8, 2014 2:08 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
>
>
> I am changing my clutch assembly and having trouble getting the flywheel
> assembly off to access the Spigot/Pilot bushing which I want to replace.
The
> flywheel turns and won't let me loosen the 4 bolts. (I don't have access to
> pneumatic tools which would probably do the trick.)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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References: <1C31A50D-135A-46E0-80A1-0DC8E49CD256@gmail.com>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 12:03:45 -0700
To: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

If you can get a pry bar in there, try locking it against two nuts and push
in opposite rotation to the the nut you are unscrewing

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 11:06 AM, Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com> wrote:

> I am changing my clutch assembly and having trouble getting the flywheel
> assembly off to access the Spigot/Pilot bushing which I want to replace.
> The
> flywheel turns and won't let me loosen the 4 bolts. (I don't have access to
> pneumatic tools which would probably do the trick.)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 15:05:57 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi Price,
I think the easiest way to lock the flywheel is to jam a suitably sized
piece of steel or even a long socket between a ring gear tooth and a bolt
in one of the starter bolt holes.
Sometimes takes a bit of fiddling around to get a good lock but it does
work and you are very unlikely to damage anything.

Michael S
BN1 #174


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 2:06 PM, Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com> wrote:

> I am changing my clutch assembly and having trouble getting the flywheel
> assembly off to access the Spigot/Pilot bushing which I want to replace.
> The
> flywheel turns and won't let me loosen the 4 bolts. (I don't have access to
> pneumatic tools which would probably do the trick.)
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 14:06:15 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>,  Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1C31A50D-135A-46E0-80A1-0DC8E49CD256@gmail.com>
 {sentby:smtp auth 98.212.127.207 authed with shop@justbrits.com}
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

E D I T        Y O U R        R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject" 
catches you] ! ! !*
**XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX


*
<<  On 7/8/2014 1:06 PM, Price Lindsay wrote:

The flywheel turns and won't let me loosen the 4 bolts.  >>


First Price, common prob for novice/new shadetree mechanic <VBG> ! ! !
You are FAR from alone ! !

Second, apparently the two (2) Respondents either belong to 
aforementioned group <G> <G> or did NOT fully  read your enquiry ! ! !

Third, all you need is the the following tool:

http://tinyurl.com/ohc2dvf

OR

http://store.snapon.com/Clutch-Service-Tools-Flywheel-Turner-P635967.aspx

You might try to borrow this tool from one of the BBAPS (I doubt they 
would have<G>,
or I'll LOAN you mine, or try to order from a Loews Tool Dept, H.D. Tool 
Dept. (I think
Loews 'Kobalt' line is better of the two), Crapsman, Ace (carries 
Snap-On--- I have NO
idea re Ace Tool Brands), OR a APS that carries S-K.

If you do check BBAPS, see if they have BLIND HOLE bushing puller for SB 
Chevy
<G> <G> ! !  CLEANEST method for removing pilot bearing <VBG>  ! ! !

Ed
" Just Brits "
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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 <29F32907-A550-4DDE-93F2-AD1CF6566E76@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 15:10:12 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Find  piece of shafting which is a snug fit into the bush.
Fill the bush with wheel bearing grease.
Install safety glasses.
Bash the shaft into the grease with one hefty blow with a big hammer.
Take shower to dislodge grease from hair!!!

Michael S
Bn1 #174


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 3:02 PM, Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Larry,  they came loose as advertised.
>
> Now to figure out how to get the bush out without taking anything else off.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 8, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com> wrote:
> >
> > Price,  Use a heavy hammer to strike the opposite end of a box end wrench
> with heavy blows.  The box end being on the bolt head of course.  The
> shock of
> the blow should loosen the bolts.  Have done this many times on hard to
> loosen
> bolts on objects that are not anchored securely.
> >
> > Larry
> > '67 BJ8
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
> > To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tue, Jul 8, 2014 2:08 pm
> > Subject: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
> >
> >
> > I am changing my clutch assembly and having trouble getting the flywheel
> > assembly off to access the Spigot/Pilot bushing which I want to replace.
> The
> > flywheel turns and won't let me loosen the 4 bolts. (I don't have access
> to
> > pneumatic tools which would probably do the trick.)
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Price Lindsay
> > 67 BJ8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 14:10:29 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
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Status: RO

E D I T        Y O U R        R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject" 
catches you] ! ! !*
**XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
*
DAMN, Didn't follow my OWN advice in replying to Price & List --- LOL 
<F> ! !

Sorry, Gents !

Ed
" Just Brits "*
*
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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References: <53B90155.6060700@cosmos.net.au> <53B9EA21.1060205@comcast.net>
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 15:16:20 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Yes it is amazing how few good jokes are 100% PC these days!!

Michael S
BN1 #174


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 2:01 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

> and racist and xenophobic. Some folks do not have filters for understanding
> the impact of such jokes on others IMHO.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 10:05 AM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> > As I remember, some of them got a little too political.
> >
> > John Sims, BN6
> > Aberdeen, NJ
> >
> > www.healey6.com
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len
> > and/or Marge Hartnett
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 12:18 PM
> > To: AH Mail List
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
> >
> > Yeah!  As I recall, one person, maybe two, complained.  To start things
> off
> > a little early, here is a Tuesday Teaser from the Ron Owens radio show in
> > 2006 as submitted by Liz in Petaluma:
> >
> > A Living Will
> >
> > A  man and his wife were sitting in the living room and he said  to her,
> > "Just so you know, I never want to live in a vegetative state,  dependent
> > on
> > some machine and fluids from a bottle. If that ever happens, just pull
> the
> > plug."
> >
> > His  wife  got  up,  unplugged  the TV and threw out all of his  beer
> >
> >
> > I say, Friday Funnies Forever!
> >
> > (The Other) Len
> > Fairfield, CA, USA
> > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
> >
> > ---
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
> > To: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> > Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 8:53 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
> >
> >
> > >I wasn't aware FF had been exorcised from the List. I can't believe any
> > LBC
> >
> > >owner is that thin-skinned (skinned knuckles, for sure).
> > >
> > > Who authorized such blasphemy?
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > >
> > > From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> > > To: "Keith Taylor" <ktee20@gmail.com>, "healeys" <
> healeys@autox.team.net
> > >
> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 8:51:16 AM
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
> > >
> > > I miss the Friday funnies too.
> > >
> > > John Spaur
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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Bob, Peter,

Intersting views.

Just FYI, Marshall Plan was also offered in Poland, but the xxx communists
did not accept 'imperialist' money..

Speaking of phones, the country that was very far behind in terms of mobile
phone infrastructure was .... USA.
Sending an sms 10 years ago in US was mission impossible. BUT, when you
dialed 0 in a phone booth a real human being answered!

This has changed now - US caught up I the recent years.


Tadek


---
Ta wiadomoED e-mail jest wolna od wirusC3w i zEoEliwego oprogramowania,
poniewaE< ochrona avast! Antivirus jest aktywna.
http://www.avast.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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From: "R. Price Lindsay" <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 15:27:39 -0400
References: <1C31A50D-135A-46E0-80A1-0DC8E49CD256@gmail.com>
 <8D168F02D060070-4C38-14FB3@webmail-d225.sysops.aol.com>
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To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Really?  When you say that I think it is the same process Steve Byers was
trying to describe to me.  Never occurred to me to do this but it makes sense
unless, of course, you're just looking for Friday Funny material:>).

Price Lindsay

239-596-8518 (Home)
630-841-6300 (Cell)
050.rpl@gmail.com


On Jul 8, 2014, at 3:10 PM, Michael Salter wrote:

> Find  piece of shafting which is a snug fit into the bush.
> Fill the bush with wheel bearing grease.
> Install safety glasses.
> Bash the shaft into the grease with one hefty blow with a big hammer.
> Take shower to dislodge grease from hair!!!
>
> Michael S
> Bn1 #174
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 3:02 PM, Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks Larry,  they came loose as advertised.
>
> Now to figure out how to get the bush out without taking anything else off.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 8, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com> wrote:
> >
> > Price,  Use a heavy hammer to strike the opposite end of a box end wrench
> with heavy blows.  The box end being on the bolt head of course.  The shock
of
> the blow should loosen the bolts.  Have done this many times on hard to
loosen
> bolts on objects that are not anchored securely.
> >
> > Larry
> > '67 BJ8
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
> > To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tue, Jul 8, 2014 2:08 pm
> > Subject: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
> >
> >
> > I am changing my clutch assembly and having trouble getting the flywheel
> > assembly off to access the Spigot/Pilot bushing which I want to replace.
> The
> > flywheel turns and won't let me loosen the 4 bolts. (I don't have access
to
> > pneumatic tools which would probably do the trick.)
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Price Lindsay
> > 67 BJ8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 14:32:53 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
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CC: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

E D I T        Y O U R        R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject" catches you] ! ! !
**XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

One esteemed gent penned:
<quote>
If you can get a pry bar in there, try locking it against two nuts and push in opposite rotation
to the the nut you are unscrewing.
</quote>
  
And another (very) esteemed gent penned:
<quote>
I think the easiest way to lock the flywheel is to jam a suitably sized piece of steel or even
long socket between a ring gear tooth and a bolt in one of the starter bolt holes.
</quote>

And a third esteemed gent penned:
<quote>
Use a heavy hammer to strike the opposite end of a box end wrench with heavy blows.
The box end being on the bolt head of course.

The shock of the blow should loosen the bolts.
</quote>

Now I want to REALLY "learn" just HOW you'll are gonna TIGHTEN the NEW 
(Lord,
I hope] bolts EVENLY (torqued) ? ? ? ? ?

er, or doesn't anybody care if one shears off whilst driving down the 
road ? ?

Ed
" Just Brits "
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 19:54:26 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Tadeusz Malkiewicz <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
References: <013901cf9ae1$874be1d0$95e3a570$@plusnet.pl>
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Thread-Topic: British Motor Car Industry
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] British Motor Car Industry
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Status: RO

Hey, we invent the stuff, you expect us to use it too??? 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Cooper_%28inventor%29 


Bob 

----- Original Message -----



Bob, Peter, 

Intersting views. 

Just FYI, Marshall Plan was also offered in Poland, but the xxx communists 
did not accept 'imperialist' money.. 

Speaking of phones, the country that was very far behind in terms of mobile 
phone infrastructure was .... USA. 
Sending an sms 10 years ago in US was mission impossible. BUT, when you 
dialed 0 in a phone booth a real human being answered! 

This has changed now - US caught up I the recent years. 


Tadek 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 16:03:17 -0400 (EDT)
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
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Status: RO

Ed,  You do it in the reverse order with a "Calibrated" hammer.  Wink
Wink
Actually a wrench can be put on the big nut on the front crankshaft
pulley and the wrench in turn against an immovable object or surface.
Then a torque wrench can be used on the flywheel bolts when
reinstalling.  Or one can take out one of the spark plugs and thread a
length of rope long enough to fill the cylinder with the piston at
bottom dead center leaving a length of rope sticking out of the spark
plug hole in order to be able to remove the rope when finished.  When
the crank is turned, the piston will compress the rope and in turn stop
the crank from turning.  This could have been used to remove the bolts
also.  I didn't think of it till after sending my original reply.

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 8, 2014 3:37 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal


E D I T        Y O U R        R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject"
catches
you] ! ! !
**XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

One esteemed gent penned:
<quote>
If you can get a pry bar in there, try locking it against two nuts and
push in
opposite rotation
to the the nut you are unscrewing.
</quote>

And another (very) esteemed gent penned:
<quote>
I think the easiest way to lock the flywheel is to jam a suitably sized
piece of
steel or even
long socket between a ring gear tooth and a bolt in one of the starter
bolt
holes.
</quote>

And a third esteemed gent penned:
<quote>
Use a heavy hammer to strike the opposite end of a box end wrench with
heavy
blows.
The box end being on the bolt head of course.

The shock of the blow should loosen the bolts.
</quote>

Now I want to REALLY "learn" just HOW you'll are gonna TIGHTEN the NEW
(Lord,
I hope] bolts EVENLY (torqued) ? ? ? ? ?

er, or doesn't anybody care if one shears off whilst driving down the
road ? ?

Ed
" Just Brits "
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:39 2018
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 13:07:49 -0700
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

not so much a PC thing.... But sometimes that works as a guideline. Yes I
know about the delte key....There were some really off humor jokes. I will
now stand down from my high horse.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 12:16 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Yes it is amazing how few good jokes are 100% PC these days!!
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 2:01 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> and racist and xenophobic. Some folks do not have filters for
>> understanding
>> the impact of such jokes on others IMHO.
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland, OR
>>    _______                                  _______
>>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>>          (_________________________)
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 10:05 AM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>> > As I remember, some of them got a little too political.
>> >
>> > John Sims, BN6
>> > Aberdeen, NJ
>> >
>> > www.healey6.com
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len
>> > and/or Marge Hartnett
>> > Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 12:18 PM
>> > To: AH Mail List
>> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>> >
>> > Yeah!  As I recall, one person, maybe two, complained.  To start things
>> off
>> > a little early, here is a Tuesday Teaser from the Ron Owens radio show
>> in
>> > 2006 as submitted by Liz in Petaluma:
>> >
>> > A Living Will
>> >
>> > A  man and his wife were sitting in the living room and he said  to her,
>> > "Just so you know, I never want to live in a vegetative state,
>>  dependent
>> > on
>> > some machine and fluids from a bottle. If that ever happens, just pull
>> the
>> > plug."
>> >
>> > His  wife  got  up,  unplugged  the TV and threw out all of his  beer
>> >
>> >
>> > I say, Friday Funnies Forever!
>> >
>> > (The Other) Len
>> > Fairfield, CA, USA
>> > 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>> >
>> > ---
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
>> > To: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>> > Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> > Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 8:53 AM
>> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>> >
>> >
>> > >I wasn't aware FF had been exorcised from the List. I can't believe any
>> > LBC
>> >
>> > >owner is that thin-skinned (skinned knuckles, for sure).
>> > >
>> > > Who authorized such blasphemy?
>> > >
>> > > Bob
>> > >
>> > > ----- Original Message -----
>> > >
>> > > From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>> > > To: "Keith Taylor" <ktee20@gmail.com>, "healeys" <
>> healeys@autox.team.net
>> > >
>> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 8:51:16 AM
>> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>> > >
>> > > I miss the Friday funnies too.
>> > >
>> > > John Spaur
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> > >
>> > > Healeys@autox.team.net
>> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> > >
>> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > >
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >
>> > Healeys@autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> >
>> > Healeys@autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: Lynn And Jean Neff <lnjn36@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 15:10:21 -0500
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To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Is everyone vying to attain victim status now. Sorry, but why bother
expressing a watered down opinion that you don't really agree with in the
chance that someone might be offended. It's cobbling a statement by committee.
I can feel the flames coming !!!!!

Lynn Neff BT7

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 8, 2014, at 12:05 PM, "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> As I remember, some of them got a little too political.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len
> and/or Marge Hartnett
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 12:18 PM
> To: AH Mail List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
> Yeah!  As I recall, one person, maybe two, complained.  To start things off
> a little early, here is a Tuesday Teaser from the Ron Owens radio show in
> 2006 as submitted by Liz in Petaluma:
>
> A Living Will
>
> A  man and his wife were sitting in the living room and he said  to her,
> "Just so you know, I never want to live in a vegetative state,  dependent
on
> some machine and fluids from a bottle. If that ever happens, just pull the
> plug."
>
> His  wife  got  up,  unplugged  the TV and threw out all of his  beer
>
>
> I say, Friday Funnies Forever!
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
> ---
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 8:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
>
>> I wasn't aware FF had been exorcised from the List. I can't believe any
LBC
>
>> owner is that thin-skinned (skinned knuckles, for sure).
>>
>> Who authorized such blasphemy?
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>> From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>> To: "Keith Taylor" <ktee20@gmail.com>, "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 8:51:16 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>>
>> I miss the Friday funnies too.
>>
>> John Spaur
>> _______________________________________________
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts@earthlink.net
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 15:12:29 -0500
From: "R. Cobb" <rcobb@earthlink.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.0; WOW64; rv:17.0) Gecko/20130801
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To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Funnies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I'm a great believer in the value of humor...and its power to elicit responses, both positive and negative.  That said, I'm just as happy to not be exposed to what some contributors have, in the past, characterized as humor.

I have enjoyed this forum more, without the somewhat frequent assaults on good taste and civility. Even in this brief discussion, as copied below, listers are labeled (thin-skinned) if they may object to inappropriate, insensitive or offensive postings of "humor".  This is a global forum and what it does best is serve the global Austin-Healey community with support and camaraderie regarding our vehicles...may it remain so.

Those who miss the "Funnies" would perhaps best be served by joining such a forum, and thus meet that need.

Since I have observed that it is in your nature to do so, flame away, Bob Spidell, et al.

Bob


Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 11:01:27 -0700
From: I Erbs<eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: John Sims<ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: AH Mail List<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Message-ID:
	<CACPMnYq8Nx8SfBJTLEyv36DDtB4eO=Nip-aWS3NrDqCvPtxbNg@mail.gmail.com>

and racist and xenophobic. Some folks do not have filters for understanding
the impact of such jokes on others IMHO.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
    _______                                  _______
      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
          (_________________________)


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 10:05 AM, John Sims<ahbn6@verizon.net>  wrote:

> As I remember, some of them got a little too political.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len
> and/or Marge Hartnett
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 12:18 PM
> To: AH Mail List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
> Yeah!  As I recall, one person, maybe two, complained.  To start things off
> a little early, here is a Tuesday Teaser from the Ron Owens radio show in
> 2006 as submitted by Liz in Petaluma:
>
> A Living Will
>
> A  man and his wife were sitting in the living room and he said  to her,
> "Just so you know, I never want to live in a vegetative state,  dependent
> on
> some machine and fluids from a bottle. If that ever happens, just pull the
> plug."
>
> His  wife  got  up,  unplugged  the TV and threw out all of his  beer
>
>
> I say, Friday Funnies Forever!
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
> ---
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell"<bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: "john"<jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: "healeys"<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 8:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
>
>> I wasn't aware FF had been exorcised from the List. I can't believe any
> LBC
>
>> owner is that thin-skinned (skinned knuckles, for sure).
>>
>> Who authorized such blasphemy?
>>
>> Bob
_______________________________________________
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From: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.671.1404643539.5508.healeys@autox.team.net>
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Status: RO

Larry Varley wrote:
> The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really
> added no extra performance,

I thought the BN1 had the first gear of a 4-speed gearbox blocked off, 
and that the BN2 used the same gearbox with first unblocked and with 
different ratios.  But that's just from my hazy memory.

--
Kent McLean
'56 BN2
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 13:30:51 -0700
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Kent,

No, the BN2 gearbox while it also had its origins as a column shift
transmission was a completely different design.  The BN1 was a one piece
aluminum gearbox housing with an integral bell housing.  The BN2on the
other hand was a separate cast iron gearbox housing and a bolt on aluminum
bell housing.  Then of course the shift patterns as well as the gear ratios
were different.

Cheers,

Curt


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 1:18 PM, Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net> wrote:

> Larry Varley wrote:
>
>> The BN2 with a extra gear in a much heavier gearbox that really
>> added no extra performance,
>>
>
> I thought the BN1 had the first gear of a 4-speed gearbox blocked off, and
> that the BN2 used the same gearbox with first unblocked and with different
> ratios.  But that's just from my hazy memory.
>
> --
> Kent McLean
> '56 BN2
_______________________________________________
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From: Gilbert Gauthier <comkanuk@cgocable.ca>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 17:03:20 -0400
To: HEALEY  MAIL <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Hardtop restore for BN7 or BN6 for sale
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HI all

Contact me off list 


Thank


Gilbert Gauthier
100M -BT7
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 21:27:33 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: "R. Cobb" <rcobb@earthlink.net>
References: <53BC50AD.3080901@earthlink.net>
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Guess we know who the thin-skinned Lister is (also obviously a licensed clinical psychologist qualified to diagnose peoples' "nature"). 

Anyway, I now recall the distress the issue caused, and agree with Ira it's best not to pollute the List with 'funnies.' However, if someone sneaks a really good one in I won't complain (funny, I don't recall taking a stance on this issue the first go-around, but maybe our resident psychologist recalls differently). 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----

From: "R. Cobb" <rcobb@earthlink.net> 
To: "healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 1:12:29 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Funnies 

I'm a great believer in the value of humor...and its power to elicit responses, both positive and negative. That said, I'm just as happy to not be exposed to what some contributors have, in the past, characterized as humor. 

I have enjoyed this forum more, without the somewhat frequent assaults on good taste and civility. Even in this brief discussion, as copied below, listers are labeled (thin-skinned) if they may object to inappropriate, insensitive or offensive postings of "humor". This is a global forum and what it does best is serve the global Austin-Healey community with support and camaraderie regarding our vehicles...may it remain so. 

Those who miss the "Funnies" would perhaps best be served by joining such a forum, and thus meet that need. 

Since I have observed that it is in your nature to do so, flame away, Bob Spidell, et al. 

Bob 
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I'm sure there's someone who would take offense, but they are probably not on
this list.

What did the baby say to bartender?
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 17:39:33 -0400
From: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.926.1404850698.5508.healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] British Motor Car Industry
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Status: RO

Bob Spidell wrote:
> Hey, we invent the stuff, you expect us to use it too???
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Cooper_%28inventor%29

On a related off-topic note, I was surprised to learn that actress Hedy 
Lamarr, regarded by some as "the most beautiful [woman] ever to appear 
in films", had a hand in wireless phones.

 From Wikipedia,
"Her most significant technological contribution was her co-invention, 
together with composer George Antheil, of an early technique for spread 
spectrum communications and frequency hopping, which paved the way for 
today's wireless communications."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hedy_Lamarr
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001443/

--
Kent McLean
'56 BN-2
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 21:44:26 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.926.1404850698.5508.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <53BC6515.3000102@comcast.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: British Motor Car Industry
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] British Motor Car Industry
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Status: RO

IIRC, she was trying to develop a method to keep Navy radio-guided torpedoes from being jammed by the Nazis/Japanese. The Navy rejected her idea because, well, because she was a beautiful woman. 

bob 


----- Original Message -----

From: "Kent McLean" <kentmclean@comcast.net> 
To: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 2:39:33 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] British Motor Car Industry 

Bob Spidell wrote: 
> Hey, we invent the stuff, you expect us to use it too??? 
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Cooper_%28inventor%29 

On a related off-topic note, I was surprised to learn that actress Hedy 
Lamarr, regarded by some as "the most beautiful [woman] ever to appear 
in films", had a hand in wireless phones. 

>From Wikipedia, 
"Her most significant technological contribution was her co-invention, 
together with composer George Antheil, of an early technique for spread 
spectrum communications and frequency hopping, which paved the way for 
today's wireless communications." 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hedy_Lamarr 
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001443/ 

-- 
Kent McLean 
'56 BN-2 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 15:02:32 -0700
References: <53BC50AD.3080901@earthlink.net> <PxTo1o01U0NyJgq01xTp8m>
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To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Funnies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

 The list stripped the punchline!

The baby said to the bartender:
"Leave the bottle."


On Jul 8, 2014, at 2:38 PM, Wilko2 wrote:

> I'm sure there's someone who would take offense, but they are probably not
on
> this list.
>
> What did the baby say to bartender?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 18:24:36 -0400
References: <53BC50AD.3080901@earthlink.net> <PxTo1o01U0NyJgq01xTp8m>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Funnies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

I think I hear The La Leche League warming up!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: "Wilko2" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Sent: b7/b8/b2014 6:02 PM
To: "Wilko2" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: "healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Funnies

 The list stripped the punchline!

The baby said to the bartender:
"Leave the bottle."


On Jul 8, 2014, at 2:38 PM, Wilko2 wrote:

> I'm sure there's someone who would take offense, but they are probably not
on
> this list.
>
> What did the baby say to bartender?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: Scott Willis <ahpowered@hotmail.com>
CC: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 17:51:57 -0500
References: <53BC50AD.3080901@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Funnies
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Stop smiling. You will go blind.

Missing Wife Found by
Maine State Troopers

The day after his wife disappeared in a kayaking
accident, a Bar Harbor man answered his door to find two grim-faced Maine
State
Troopers. "We're sorry Mr. Wilkens, but we have some information about
your wife", said one of the troopers. "Tell me! Did you find
her?", Wilkens exclaimed. The troopers looked at each other. One said,
"We have some bad news, some good news, and some really great news. Which
would you like to hear first?" Fearing the worst, Mr. Wilkens said,
"Give me the bad news first." The trooper said, "I'm sorry to
tell you, sir, but this morning we found your wife's body in the bay."
"Oh my God!", exclaimed Wilkens. Swallowing hard, he asked,
"What's the good news?" The trooper continued, "When we pulled
her up, she had 12 of the best looking Maine Lobsters that you have ever seen
and 60 good-sized Rockfish clinging to her, haven't seen lobsters like that
since the 1960's and we feel you are entitled to a share in the catch."
Stunned, Mr. Wilkens demanded, "If that's the good news, then what's the
great news?" The trooper replied, "We're gonna pull her up again tomorrow."

Scott Willis
59 MGA 1500
60 BN7 Austin Healey Club USA/Bluegrass Austin Healey Club
66 E-Type FHC S1

http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/
BG Euro Classics Car Club President
Bowling Green, KY
100% CONTACT: swillis@columbia.com


----------------------------------------
> To: e-wilkins@cox.net
> From: michael.salter@gmail.com
> Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 18:24:36 -0400
> CC: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Funnies
>
> I think I hear The La Leche League warming up!!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Wilko2" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
> Sent: b7/b8/b2014 6:02 PM
> To: "Wilko2" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
> Cc: "healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Funnies
>
> The list stripped the punchline!
>
> The baby said to the bartender:
> "Leave the bottle."
>
>
> On Jul 8, 2014, at 2:38 PM, Wilko2 wrote:
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 17:06:37 -0700
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Funnies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Groan....



On Tuesday, July 8, 2014 3:03 PM, Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
wrote:
 


The list stripped the punchline!

The baby said to the bartender:
"Leave the bottle."


On Jul 8, 2014, at 2:38 PM, Wilko2 wrote:

> I'm sure
there's someone who would take offense, but they are probably not
on
> this
list.
>
> What did the baby say to bartender?
>
_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive:
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
_______________________________________________
Archive:
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: "james Wojcik" <jvwojcik@comcast.net>
To: "'R. Cobb'" <rcobb@earthlink.net>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53BC50AD.3080901@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 19:08:31 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Funnies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Bob, I appreciate your guts. I love humor but it happens too often that it
runs us off the rails here.  The big dogs want to pee on all the posts.  Jim
Wojcik.

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Cobb
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 3:12 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Funnies

I'm a great believer in the value of humor...and its power to elicit
responses, both positive and negative.  That said, I'm just as happy to not
be exposed to what some contributors have, in the past, characterized as
humor.

I have enjoyed this forum more, without the somewhat frequent assaults on
good taste and civility. Even in this brief discussion, as copied below,
listers are labeled (thin-skinned) if they may object to inappropriate,
insensitive or offensive postings of "humor".  This is a global forum and
what it does best is serve the global Austin-Healey community with support
and camaraderie regarding our vehicles...may it remain so.

Those who miss the "Funnies" would perhaps best be served by joining such a
forum, and thus meet that need.

Since I have observed that it is in your nature to do so, flame away, Bob
Spidell, et al.

Bob


Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 11:01:27 -0700
From: I Erbs<eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: John Sims<ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: AH Mail List<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Message-ID:
	<CACPMnYq8Nx8SfBJTLEyv36DDtB4eO=Nip-aWS3NrDqCvPtxbNg@mail.gmail.com>

and racist and xenophobic. Some folks do not have filters for understanding
the impact of such jokes on others IMHO.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
    _______                                  _______
      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
          (_________________________)


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 10:05 AM, John Sims<ahbn6@verizon.net>  wrote:

> As I remember, some of them got a little too political.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len 
> and/or Marge Hartnett
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 12:18 PM
> To: AH Mail List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
> Yeah!  As I recall, one person, maybe two, complained.  To start 
> things off a little early, here is a Tuesday Teaser from the Ron Owens 
> radio show in
> 2006 as submitted by Liz in Petaluma:
>
> A Living Will
>
> A  man and his wife were sitting in the living room and he said  to 
> her, "Just so you know, I never want to live in a vegetative state,  
> dependent on some machine and fluids from a bottle. If that ever 
> happens, just pull the plug."
>
> His  wife  got  up,  unplugged  the TV and threw out all of his  beer
>
>
> I say, Friday Funnies Forever!
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
> ---
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell"<bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: "john"<jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: "healeys"<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 8:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
>
>> I wasn't aware FF had been exorcised from the List. I can't believe 
>> any
> LBC
>
>> owner is that thin-skinned (skinned knuckles, for sure).
>>
>> Who authorized such blasphemy?
>>
>> Bob
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvwojcik@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey@charter.net>
To: "'R. Cobb'" <rcobb@earthlink.net>, <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53BC50AD.3080901@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 17:09:07 -0700
Thread-Index: AQFW9s/cAtuPp8eshg2AAyeSCXXmO5yIJjLQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Funnies
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Clearly Obama's fault   Benghazi  Benghazi !

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Cobb
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 1:12 PM
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Funnies

I'm a great believer in the value of humor...and its power to elicit
responses, both positive and negative.  That said, I'm just as happy to not
be exposed to what some contributors have, in the past, characterized as
humor.

I have enjoyed this forum more, without the somewhat frequent assaults on
good taste and civility. Even in this brief discussion, as copied below,
listers are labeled (thin-skinned) if they may object to inappropriate,
insensitive or offensive postings of "humor".  This is a global forum and
what it does best is serve the global Austin-Healey community with support
and camaraderie regarding our vehicles...may it remain so.

Those who miss the "Funnies" would perhaps best be served by joining such a
forum, and thus meet that need.

Since I have observed that it is in your nature to do so, flame away, Bob
Spidell, et al.

Bob


Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 11:01:27 -0700
From: I Erbs<eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: John Sims<ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: AH Mail List<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
Message-ID:
	<CACPMnYq8Nx8SfBJTLEyv36DDtB4eO=Nip-aWS3NrDqCvPtxbNg@mail.gmail.com>

and racist and xenophobic. Some folks do not have filters for understanding
the impact of such jokes on others IMHO.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
    _______                                  _______
      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
          (_________________________)


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 10:05 AM, John Sims<ahbn6@verizon.net>  wrote:

> As I remember, some of them got a little too political.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Len 
> and/or Marge Hartnett
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 12:18 PM
> To: AH Mail List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
> Yeah!  As I recall, one person, maybe two, complained.  To start 
> things off a little early, here is a Tuesday Teaser from the Ron Owens 
> radio show in
> 2006 as submitted by Liz in Petaluma:
>
> A Living Will
>
> A  man and his wife were sitting in the living room and he said  to 
> her, "Just so you know, I never want to live in a vegetative state,  
> dependent on some machine and fluids from a bottle. If that ever 
> happens, just pull the plug."
>
> His  wife  got  up,  unplugged  the TV and threw out all of his  beer
>
>
> I say, Friday Funnies Forever!
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
> ---
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Spidell"<bspidell@comcast.net>
> To: "john"<jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
> Cc: "healeys"<healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 8:53 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys
>
>
>> I wasn't aware FF had been exorcised from the List. I can't believe 
>> any
> LBC
>
>> owner is that thin-skinned (skinned knuckles, for sure).
>>
>> Who authorized such blasphemy?
>>
>> Bob
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey@charter.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 17:19:03 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Thomas Willig <twillig@ruda.de>,  Magnus Karlsson
 <magnuskarlsson@bornet.net>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Was doing some searching, and came across this:

http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com

Know nothing about them, but when I inquired, they responded quickly:

'Hello Bob, your C42 dynamo is rated at 25a. Currently our biggest regulator is 22a rated but we are working on a 28a 
version to replace it.

Keep watching the website for details.

It will be going into production soon.'


Interestingly, they claim with their conversion the red 'battery' light (on the tach) never comes on; implies the 
generator generates sufficient current even at low idle.

NFI, no experience, etc.

Bob


On 7/8/2014 2:41 AM, Thomas Willig wrote:
> ..pictures of converted Lucas units here:
>
> http://www.edknet.de/archiv6.htm
>
> (No financial interest...from my side, just a satified customer))
>
> B
> Thomas Willig
>
>
>
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>
To: "'R. Price Lindsay'" <050.rpl@gmail.com>, "'Michael Salter'"
 <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
References: <1C31A50D-135A-46E0-80A1-0DC8E49CD256@gmail.com>
 <8D168F02D060070-4C38-14FB3@webmail-d225.sysops.aol.com>
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 12:19:55 +1200
Thread-Index: Ac+aRoMOnSQCOdq6R/Onsad44tKQ1gAxAwrA
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Using hydraulics to remove solid bearings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Michael's method is an old railway engineer's solution.
It is simple hydraulics.  It's a piston and fluid.  A pump, if you
will.
I believe it has been around nearly 200 years.
I've used it on several occasions, using oil too, as well as grease.
It has always worked like a charm for me.
As Michael says, it can splatter.   Grease  . . .  not blood.

And, no, Price, it's not a Friday Funny.   It's for real.   :-)

Mark
Ardmore, NZ


-----Original Message-----
From: R. Price Lindsay [mailto:050.rpl@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, 9 July 2014 7:28 a.m.
To: Michael Salter
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal

Really?  When you say that I think it is the same process Steve Byers
was
trying to describe to me.  Never occurred to me to do this but it
makes sense
unless, of course, you're just looking for Friday Funny material:>).

Price Lindsay

239-596-8518 (Home)
630-841-6300 (Cell)
050.rpl@gmail.com


On Jul 8, 2014, at 3:10 PM, Michael Salter wrote:

> Find  piece of shafting which is a snug fit into the bush.
> Fill the bush with wheel bearing grease.
> Install safety glasses.
> Bash the shaft into the grease with one hefty blow with a big
hammer.
> Take shower to dislodge grease from hair!!!
>
> Michael S
> Bn1 #174
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 3:02 PM, Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Thanks Larry,  they came loose as advertised.
>
> Now to figure out how to get the bush out without taking anything
else off.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 8, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
wrote:
> >
> > Price,  Use a heavy hammer to strike the opposite end of a box end
wrench
> with heavy blows.  The box end being on the bolt head of course.
The shock
of
> the blow should loosen the bolts.  Have done this many times on hard
to
loosen
> bolts on objects that are not anchored securely.
> >
> > Larry
> > '67 BJ8
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
> > To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tue, Jul 8, 2014 2:08 pm
> > Subject: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
> >
> >
> > I am changing my clutch assembly and having trouble getting the
flywheel
> > assembly off to access the Spigot/Pilot bushing which I want to
replace.
> The
> > flywheel turns and won't let me loosen the 4 bolts. (I don't have
access
to
> > pneumatic tools which would probably do the trick.)
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Price Lindsay
> > 67 BJ8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
> _______________________________________________
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>
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Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 21:05:41 -0400
From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <53BC50AD.3080901@earthlink.net> <PxTo1o01U0NyJgq01xTp8m>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Funnies
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I hope it comes with videos:-P


On 7/8/2014 6:24 PM, Michael wrote:
> I think I hear The La Leche League warming up!!!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Wilko2" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
> Sent: b7/b8/b2014 6:02 PM
> To: "Wilko2" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
> Cc: "healeys" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Funnies
>
>   The list stripped the punchline!
>
> The baby said to the bartender:
> "Leave the bottle."
>
>
> On Jul 8, 2014, at 2:38 PM, Wilko2 wrote:
>
>> I'm sure there's someone who would take offense, but they are probably not
> on
>> this list.
>>
>> What did the baby say to bartender?
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman@htcnet.org
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 21:18:02 -0400
From: <dwflagg@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] inappropriate,  insensitive or offensive......
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Status: RO

Well, you can knock me down,
Step in my face,
Slander my name
All over the place.

You can burn my house,
Steal my car,
Drink my liquor
>From an old fruitjar.

Do anything that you want to do, but uh-uh,
Honey, lay off of my shoes
Don't you step on my blue suede shoes.
You can do anything but lay off of my blue suede shoes!!!

You do that and it is inappropriate, insensitive and offensive!!! IMHO.
Just ask Carl Perkins!!
____________________________________________________________
#1 Trick to FIGHT carbs
Easy trick btweaksb hormones to control blood sugar & boost fat loss
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53bc98ac75c0c18ac4fc9st02duc
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 18:21:01 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Revel model
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Sister sent me a complete 100-6 Healey model for my birthday. Looking
forward to building it over the winter. Good thing I got the left over
paint when my car was painted.

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2014 18:32:51 -0700
References: <AABK53GFNANV3XFJ@smtpout02.dca.untd.com>
To: "<dwflagg@juno.com>" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] inappropriate,  insensitive or offensive......
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

I can put up with jokes about anything but lactose intolerance.
People with no toes are just as good as the rest of is.
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 8, 2014, at 18:18, <dwflagg@juno.com> wrote:
>
> Well, you can knock me down,
> Step in my face,
> Slander my name
> All over the place.
>
> You can burn my house,
> Steal my car,
> Drink my liquor
> From an old fruitjar.
>
> Do anything that you want to do, but uh-uh,
> Honey, lay off of my shoes
> Don't you step on my blue suede shoes.
> You can do anything but lay off of my blue suede shoes!!!
>
> You do that and it is inappropriate, insensitive and offensive!!! IMHO.
> Just ask Carl Perkins!!
> ____________________________________________________________
> #1 Trick to FIGHT carbs
> Easy trick btweaksb hormones to control blood sugar & boost fat loss
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53bc98ac75c0c18ac4fc9st02duc
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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To: "Larry Wendland" <bighealey3k@aim.com>, shop@justbrits.com
From: "" <ab7vf@zworg.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 18:41:33 -0700
References: <1C31A50D-135A-46E0-80A1-0DC8E49CD256@gmail.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ring Gear/Flywheel Removal
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Status: RO

Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com> wrote: 
> 
> Ed,  You do it in the reverse order with a "Calibrated" hammer.  Wink
>

  Or ... You could invest in a "chain Wrench" of suitable length to go
around the front pully ...

Jim

--
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Bob,

Surely there is someone in the British car community in the USA that has 
the knowledge to do this conversion and make some money along the way.  
Bob Jeffers did a great job.  I have three or four five post regulators 
done by him and am quite satisfied.  Perhaps a lister in New Hampshire 
can find out who now has the technology. 
http://wilton-auto-electric-llc.wilton.nh.amfibi.com/us/c/2413997-wilton-auto-electric-llc

Or someone can figure out how to do it.

I emailed Andy Sifferman to try to find out if he has passed on the 
business to anyone, but heard nothing back from him.  Though maybe it 
was the wrong Andy.  Wilton AE's website is no longer up.

Charlie


On 7/8/2014 8:19 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Was doing some searching, and came across this:
>
> http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com
>
> Know nothing about them, but when I inquired, they responded quickly:
>
> 'Hello Bob, your C42 dynamo is rated at 25a. Currently our biggest 
> regulator is 22a rated but we are working on a 28a version to replace it.
>
> Keep watching the website for details.
>
> It will be going into production soon.'
>
>
> Interestingly, they claim with their conversion the red 'battery' 
> light (on the tach) never comes on; implies the generator generates 
> sufficient current even at low idle.
>
> NFI, no experience, etc.
>
> Bob
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Charlie,

If you find someone, please let us all know.  I've decided a refresh of my charging system is due.

Bob


On 7/8/2014 7:20 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Surely there is someone in the British car community in the USA that has the knowledge to do this conversion and make 
> some money along the way.  Bob Jeffers did a great job.  I have three or four five post regulators done by him and am 
> quite satisfied.  Perhaps a lister in New Hampshire can find out who now has the technology. 
> http://wilton-auto-electric-llc.wilton.nh.amfibi.com/us/c/2413997-wilton-auto-electric-llc
>
> Or someone can figure out how to do it.
>
> I emailed Andy Sifferman to try to find out if he has passed on the business to anyone, but heard nothing back from 
> him.  Though maybe it was the wrong Andy.  Wilton AE's website is no longer up.
>
> Charlie
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2014 07:10:39 -0400
From: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <01ac01cf9a49$d77f2d80$867d8880$@com>
 <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160224E4E5@dw01.ruda.local>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Ron,

I was thinking the same thing.  I'll reach out to the members of some of 
the local clubs here in PA to see if there are any electronics experts 
who may want to take it on.

Charlie


On 7/9/2014 12:09 AM, Ron Fine wrote:
> Perhaps one or your regulators could be reverse engineered to see what 
> components were use and copied?  I don't really now how difficult such 
> a task would be but maybe someone on this list has the experience or 
> knowledge.  I doubt that the components would be so difficult to 
> source and put together.
>
> Ron
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Charlie Baldwin
> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 7:20 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
>
> Bob,
>
> Surely there is someone in the British car community in the USA that has
> the knowledge to do this conversion and make some money along the way.
> Bob Jeffers did a great job.  I have three or four five post regulators
> done by him and am quite satisfied.  Perhaps a lister in New Hampshire
> can find out who now has the technology.
> http://wilton-auto-electric-llc.wilton.nh.amfibi.com/us/c/2413997-wilton-auto-electric-llc 
>
>
> Or someone can figure out how to do it.
>
> I emailed Andy Sifferman to try to find out if he has passed on the
> business to anyone, but heard nothing back from him.  Though maybe it
> was the wrong Andy.  Wilton AE's website is no longer up.
>
> Charlie
>
>
> On 7/8/2014 8:19 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> Was doing some searching, and came across this:
>>
>> http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com
>>
>> Know nothing about them, but when I inquired, they responded quickly:
>>
>> 'Hello Bob, your C42 dynamo is rated at 25a. Currently our biggest 
>> regulator is 22a rated but we are working on a 28a version to replace 
>> it.
>>
>> Keep watching the website for details.
>>
>> It will be going into production soon.'
>>
>>
>> Interestingly, they claim with their conversion the red 'battery' 
>> light (on the tach) never comes on; implies the generator generates 
>> sufficient current even at low idle.
>>
>> NFI, no experience, etc.
>>
>> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq@earthlink.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 08:35:47 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7/8 Water Pump Kits Available Again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I'm pleased to report that I again have stock of BJ7/8 water pump rebuild
kits for the 3000 engines. (the type that do not use a nut to hold the
pulley on)
Special thanks to Tom Mitchell who put me on to a supplier prepared to
manufacture a relatively small run of bearings which I was able to modify
for use in these kits.
Based upon recent experiences with a reproduction pump I'm convinced that
rebuilding an original is a far better option and you can see how it is
done here <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=994>.
BTW the reproduction pumps cannot be rebuilt using these kits.

Michael S
BN1 #174
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=994
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 13:46:32 +0100
From: Alan Bromfield <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi Charlie.
The reverse engineering has been done and published. Check this out:
*http://tinyurl.com/ps93dom <http://tinyurl.com/ps93dom>*

Now all we need is an 'Electrickery Wizard' that could take it on. I'm a
customer for at least two of them and maybe more among fellow club members
over here.

On 9 July 2014 12:10, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote:

> Ron,
>
> I was thinking the same thing.  I'll reach out to the members of some of
> the local clubs here in PA to see if there are any electronics experts who
> may want to take it on.
>
> Charlie
>
>
> On 7/9/2014 12:09 AM, Ron Fine wrote:
>
>> Perhaps one or your regulators could be reverse engineered to see what
>> components were use and copied?  I don't really now how difficult such a
>> task would be but maybe someone on this list has the experience or
>> knowledge.  I doubt that the components would be so difficult to source and
>> put together.
>>
>> Ron
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Charlie Baldwin
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 7:20 PM
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
>>
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> Surely there is someone in the British car community in the USA that has
>> the knowledge to do this conversion and make some money along the way.
>> Bob Jeffers did a great job.  I have three or four five post regulators
>> done by him and am quite satisfied.  Perhaps a lister in New Hampshire
>> can find out who now has the technology.
>> http://wilton-auto-electric-llc.wilton.nh.amfibi.com/us/c/
>> 2413997-wilton-auto-electric-llc
>>
>> Or someone can figure out how to do it.
>>
>> I emailed Andy Sifferman to try to find out if he has passed on the
>> business to anyone, but heard nothing back from him.  Though maybe it
>> was the wrong Andy.  Wilton AE's website is no longer up.
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>   _________________________________________
>> (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
>>         (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
>>                 (_____bluehealey.com_____)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: "Alex" <alexmm@roadrunner.com>
To: "Charlie Baldwin" <mgcharlie@comcast.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <01ac01cf9a49$d77f2d80$867d8880$@com>
 <4E9D161D2AF9984C94D841B0A0D5A1160224E4E5@dw01.ruda.local>
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 11:24:09 -0400
 a=fDrs+h473TBVBgRLKGUt+A==:117 a=fDrs+h473TBVBgRLKGUt+A==:17
 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=zTVDa7HKqxcA:10 a=8nJEP1OIZ-IA:10 a=doupyKFmAAAA:8
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Subject: [Healeys] Solid-state voltage regulators
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

It is with some interest that I've been following this thread, as the folks
on the MG-T reflector have similar wishes.

Being an "electroniker" (for about 55 years; you can see some of my Web
projects here: http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm/  ) one of my MG friends
asked about an electronic control box (voltage regulator). He knew the folks
in New Hampshire that knew the Jeffers family.  With his connection I
visited an automobile restoration shop in NH and they kindly gave me a
Jeffers voltage regulator for an MG-T car that is supposedly defunct, but
intact.

Inspecting it, I was not impressed. For starters, the Jeffers Wilton box
uses edge-wipe sockets to hold the two integrated circuits (ICs) in the
regulator. Edge-wipe IC sockets are low reliability interconnects. In my
radio service business, and in my hobby work, I never use them. I have seen
them exhibit failures due to moisture and oxidation, even in benign
non-automotive applications.

For my money, I only use screw-machined IC sockets. These make what is
called a gas-tight seal between the lead frames (pins) of the IC package,
and the socket. Screw-machined sockets are the only types I would use to
hold ICs in a circuit board that would be subject to shock, vibration, and
extremes of temperature, which is what you have under the bonnet of our
cars. They are more expensive than the cheap edge-wipe sockets, but they are
utterly reliable in this application where there is a separable
interconnect.

The Jeffers voltage regulator also uses a pair of 8-pin "miniDIP" ICs that
are unmarked. He apparently ground off the nomenclature in order to preserve
his proprietary design. I suspect they are op-amps or comparators, and I
have thought about reverse engineering the board to generate a schematic,
but haven't been motivated to do that yet.

The shop I received the regulator from did contact the Jeffers family about
a month ago to determine if his notes and/or components might be available,
but I was told the family is still in mourning and didn't wish to pursue
this at this time. I may try again in a few months.

In the meantime, as you can see, there are outfits that make these voltage
regulators, and there is also a goodly amount of info on the Web about how
to roll your own. Some of the designs avoid using ICs, and use only discrete
semiconductors. These designs seem simpler to me.

In addition to the reference cited in this reflector, there is info on the
Web about how to use a 30019 Bosch regulator as an RB106 substitute.

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8,
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 08:41:20 -0700
To: Alan Bromfield <bluehealey@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Might have a guy who could build these.
 Would like to get an idea of the demand and a supply of regulators to
upgrade. Contact me off list at eyera3@gmail.com if interested? Anyone who
has bought one, can you tell me how much you paid?

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 5:46 AM, Alan Bromfield <bluehealey@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Charlie.
> The reverse engineering has been done and published. Check this out:
> *http://tinyurl.com/ps93dom <http://tinyurl.com/ps93dom>*
>
> Now all we need is an 'Electrickery Wizard' that could take it on. I'm a
> customer for at least two of them and maybe more among fellow club members
> over here.
>
> On 9 July 2014 12:10, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Ron,
> >
> > I was thinking the same thing.  I'll reach out to the members of some of
> > the local clubs here in PA to see if there are any electronics experts
> who
> > may want to take it on.
> >
> > Charlie
> >
> >
> > On 7/9/2014 12:09 AM, Ron Fine wrote:
> >
> >> Perhaps one or your regulators could be reverse engineered to see what
> >> components were use and copied?  I don't really now how difficult such a
> >> task would be but maybe someone on this list has the experience or
> >> knowledge.  I doubt that the components would be so difficult to source
> and
> >> put together.
> >>
> >> Ron
> >>
> >> -----Original Message----- From: Charlie Baldwin
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 7:20 PM
> >> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
> >>
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >>
> >> Surely there is someone in the British car community in the USA that has
> >> the knowledge to do this conversion and make some money along the way.
> >> Bob Jeffers did a great job.  I have three or four five post regulators
> >> done by him and am quite satisfied.  Perhaps a lister in New Hampshire
> >> can find out who now has the technology.
> >> http://wilton-auto-electric-llc.wilton.nh.amfibi.com/us/c/
> >> 2413997-wilton-auto-electric-llc
> >>
> >> Or someone can figure out how to do it.
> >>
> >> I emailed Andy Sifferman to try to find out if he has passed on the
> >> business to anyone, but heard nothing back from him.  Though maybe it
> >> was the wrong Andy.  Wilton AE's website is no longer up.
> >>
> >> Charlie
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >>   _________________________________________
> >> (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
> >>         (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
> >>                 (_____bluehealey.com_____)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 15:54:06 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
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Status: RO

I'm interested (in fact, I'll do this if the right product is available). Note for BJ8s--and maybe BJ7s--the regulator is an RB340 rated at, I think, 30 amps (though the dynamo is apparently only good for 25A). 

Bob 


----- Original Message -----

From: "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com> 
To: "Alan Bromfield" <bluehealey@gmail.com> 
Cc: "healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, July 9, 2014 8:41:20 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7 

Might have a guy who could build these. 
Would like to get an idea of the demand and a supply of regulators to 
upgrade. Contact me off list at eyera3@gmail.com if interested? Anyone who 
has bought one, can you tell me how much you paid? 

Ira Erbs 
Portland, OR 
_______ _______ 
(______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) 
(_________________________) 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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From: RCT2BNC@aol.com
Full-name: RCT2BNC
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Healeys] Looking for N. Ohio owner - Greg Hetzel
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Status: RO

Listers:
 
Looking for Greg Hetzel in Northern Ohio. I'm might be purchasing a car he  
previously owned and would like some additional information. If you know 
him  could you let him know? Contact info is below.
 
Thanks,
 
Ben Cohen
Tucson
 
_rct2bnc@aol.com_ (mailto:rct2bnc@aol.com) 
 
_azhealey@aol.com_ (mailto:azhealey@aol.com) 
 
520 250 4453
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:40 2018
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
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Status: RO

Alan,
I think that you posted that before.  It's way over my head, but just 
looking at it doesn't appear to be the same as Jeffers did it. I don't 
know if that is good or bad.  Alex in Maine feels that he can do better 
than Bob's design, which I welcome anyone to do. There are a lot of cars 
that use the 5 post regulator, and also other regulators can also be 
converted.  I know that Mr. Jeffers did others and would also do 
variations.  He did two for me to use a Bosch generator for a Volvo 
engine swap in an MG TD.  I have a friend with a Morris Minor who got a 
6 volt version from him.
Charlie


On 7/9/2014 8:46 AM, Alan Bromfield wrote:
> Hi Charlie.
> The reverse engineering has been done and published. Check this out:
> *http://tinyurl.com/ps93dom*
> Now all we need is an 'Electrickery Wizard' that could take it on. I'm 
> a customer for at least two of them and maybe more among fellow club 
> members over here.
>
> On 9 July 2014 12:10, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net 
>
>     Ron,
>
>     I was thinking the same thing.  I'll reach out to the members of
>     some of the local clubs here in PA to see if there are any
>     electronics experts who may want to take it on.
>
>     Charlie
>
>
>     On 7/9/2014 12:09 AM, Ron Fine wrote:
>
>         Perhaps one or your regulators could be reverse engineered to
>         see what components were use and copied?  I don't really now
>         how difficult such a task would be but maybe someone on this
>         list has the experience or knowledge.  I doubt that the
>         components would be so difficult to source and put together.
>
>         Ron
>
>         -----Original Message----- From: Charlie Baldwin
>         Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 7:20 PM
>         Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Voltage Regulator for a BN7
>
>
>         Bob,
>
>         Surely there is someone in the British car community in the
>         USA that has
>         the knowledge to do this conversion and make some money along
>         the way.
>         Bob Jeffers did a great job.  I have three or four five post
>         regulators
>         done by him and am quite satisfied.  Perhaps a lister in New
>         Hampshire
>         can find out who now has the technology.
>         http://wilton-auto-electric-llc.wilton.nh.amfibi.com/us/c/2413997-wilton-auto-electric-llc
>
>
>         Or someone can figure out how to do it.
>
>         I emailed Andy Sifferman to try to find out if he has passed
>         on the
>         business to anyone, but heard nothing back from him.  Though
>         maybe it
>         was the wrong Andy.  Wilton AE's website is no longer up.
>
>         Charlie
>
>
>
>         -- 
>           _________________________________________
>         (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
>                 (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
>                         (_____bluehealey.com_____)
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 20:16:11 +1000
From: J Armour <sebring3000@bigpond.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: FASPAC Stan Huntley
References: <CFDE44A3.2B3E%sebring3000@bigpond.com>
 FILETIME=[FC13B000:01CF9C27]
Subject: [Healeys] FW: FASPAC Stan Huntley
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Status: RO

Subject:  FASPAC Stan Huntley

Stan was well known in the NW of USA for his BMC activities and cars/parts.

In about 1979/80 I saw him race a very quick MK.1 Sprite at an historic race
meeting at Riverside.

Can anyone add more to the details of the Sprite?
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References: <CFDE44A3.2B3E%sebring3000@bigpond.com>
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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 07:58:51 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: FASPAC Stan Huntley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi Joe,

Stan used to run a regular ad featuring Sprite competition partsin the back
pages of "Autoweek" when it was a newspaper.  I bought a set of wire wheels
for my bugeye from him.  Autoweek ran a story about his Sprite right around
1979/80.  I've read the Sprite was a "Sebring Sprite" but don't know if it
actually had any Sebring history.  Stan's son, Shad, is still involved in
racing and if you look at this site you can see Stan's MK I in the lower
left hand corner:  http://www.pencomputing.com/da/2_history.html  I don't
know what happened to Stan's Mk I. Stan also owned a 1965 Austin-Healey
Sprite coupe that ran at Sebring and LeMans:
http://books.google.com/books?id=3696EkjxcmoC&pg=PA246&lpg=PA246&dq=stan+huntley+tom+cotter&source=bl&ots=fcfkrWpnG0&sig=-FPY2iDhs1OWXJjsXe3qo7L5oP0&hl=en&sa=X&ei=O36-U4LMNMypyASVs4IY&ved=0CCgQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=stan%20huntley%20tom%20cotter&f=false
and
http://bringatrailer.com/2010/06/16/bring-on-the-rain-1965-sebring-sprite/


On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 at 6:16 AM, J Armour <sebring3000@bigpond.com> wrote:

> Subject:  FASPAC Stan Huntley
>
> Stan was well known in the NW of USA for his BMC activities and cars/parts.
>
> In about 1979/80 I saw him race a very quick MK.1 Sprite at an historic
> race
> meeting at Riverside.
>
> Can anyone add more to the details of the Sprite?
_______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 14:17:29 +0000 (UTC)
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LinkedIn
------------




    Tracy Drummond requested to add you as a connection on LinkedIn:
  

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Dave,

I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn.

- Tracy

Accept invitation from Tracy Drummond
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LinkedIn
------------




    Michel Murphy requested to add you as a connection on LinkedIn:
  

------------------------------------------

Dave,

I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn.

- Michel

Accept invitation from Michel Murphy
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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Gary H
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I purchased a 100 in Canada & will be having it shipped to the USA this year.
Can someone tell me exactly what I will need to provide to the transportation
company to get it out of Canada & what I will need to get it into the USA? Do
I need an import/export broker?
Gary H
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
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To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] DW racing at Brands hatch
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https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?hl=en&shva=1#inbox/1472175df461041d

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 11:53:35 -0700
To: J Armour <sebring3000@bigpond.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: FASPAC Stan Huntley
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just saw it in the back of the shop a bunch of times when I visited.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 at 3:16 AM, J Armour <sebring3000@bigpond.com> wrote:

> Subject:  FASPAC Stan Huntley
>
> Stan was well known in the NW of USA for his BMC activities and cars/parts.
>
> In about 1979/80 I saw him race a very quick MK.1 Sprite at an historic
> race
> meeting at Riverside.
>
> Can anyone add more to the details of the Sprite?
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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 14:34:37 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8D16A818B41D0F2-994-958C@webmail-d267.sysops.aol.com>
 {sentby:smtp auth 98.212.127.207 authed with shop@justbrits.com}
Subject: Re: [Healeys] list question
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Status: RO

E D I T        Y O U R        R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject" 
catches you] ! ! !*
**XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
*
*<< *On 7/10/2014 1:11 PM, warthodson@aol.com wrote:

I am not receiving a copy of my original message to thehealeys@autox.team.net
list when I post a message, like I used to in the past.*>>

Gonna LISTEN this time, Gary (& the rest of you 'repliers' on POSs aol & yahoo &
other ISPs/"free mail" box suppliers.  And a few Legit places<F>) ? ? ?

1st question is do you have "Duplicate mails to me" checked "No" on YOUR
*
DOT com page ? ? ?  Surmising you have NO idea - <G> - where to find it normally, it
IS in the footer of every List Post <G>.  Make it YES & pray ! !

If it IS already "Yes", then read on.
  
<<  Is this the new normal?  >>

ONLY (as you've been told OVER & OVER & OVER & etc.) to the named 'providers' ! ! !   CHANGE your email 'service' ! ! !
What's wrong with using your Cable Provider FREE boxes ? ? ?

<<  I do receive replies to my messages.  >>

BECAUSE the ORIGINAL "Reply" goes to ONLY autoX;  "Reply all:" has been EDITED
to ONLY go to autoX;  or an ORIGINAL "NEW SUBJECT" post has ONLY been addressed
to autoX [Healeys List].

Got it ? ? ?

Ed
" Just Brits"

PS:  Test as 12:01 AM ! ! !   LOL
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 14:39:38 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
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To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CFDE44A3.2B3E%sebring3000@bigpond.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: FASPAC Stan Huntley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

E D I T        Y O U R        R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject" 
catches you] ! ! !*
**XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

*
<<  On 7/10/2014 1:53 PM, I Erbs wrote:

lust saw it in the back of the shop a bunch of times  >>

When was last time, Ira ? ? ?

I seem to recall it being in Royal Oak, MI @ 2.5 years ago ? ? ?

Ed
" Just Brits"
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 12:55:33 -0700
To: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: FASPAC Stan Huntley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Shop closed down a number of years ago. It was in an historic firehouse.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 at 12:39 PM, Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com> wrote:

> E D I T        Y O U R        R E P L I E S  [before DMARC p="reject"
> catches you] ! ! !*
> **XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
>
> *
> <<  On 7/10/2014 1:53 PM, I Erbs wrote:
>
> lust saw it in the back of the shop a bunch of times  >>
>
> When was last time, Ira ? ? ?
>
> I seem to recall it being in Royal Oak, MI @ 2.5 years ago ? ? ?
>
> Ed
> " Just Brits"
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 13:07:53 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] recent photos of derelict Longbridge plant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

http://jalopnik.com/the-abandoned-rover-mg-factory-is-certainly-interesting-1458127857

interesting, but very sad

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 21:51:50 +0100
From: "hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk" <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

We're still in val d'aosta and the 100 has started to smell of petrol. It
still seems to be running fine. I've been over and tightened up the obvious
connections in the fuel system and can't find anything obvious.  We're
planning to exit italy via the Petit St bernard pass, heading for an overnight
in Oyonnax on Saturday,  then heading north taking two or three days to Calais
for the ferry back to UK. Does anyone know of a garage on our route through
France that could have a look at the 100's fuel system for me?

Mike Brooks
56
BN2

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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References: <1405025510.96482.YahooMailAndroidMobile@web171802.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
From: Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 22:30:24 +0100
To: "hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk" <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hey Mike
This is just a wild guess but the fuel tank sender gasket may be the culprit.
As it is under the armacord and the luggage, the smell tends to become
pervasive.  During my recent trip around the UK I found that frequent brimming
of the tank caused the blue hylomar sealant that I had used on the cork gasket
to decay.  It turns out that regular blue hylomar isn't fuel resistant! Who
knew? There is another variant of blue hylomar that comes in a yellow tube/box
that IS fuel resistant including ethanol.

Just my two 'pennorth.

Thanks for sharing your report.

Alan - from my iPad

> On 10 Jul 2014, at 21:51, "hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk" <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>
wrote:
>
> We're still in val d'aosta and the 100 has started to smell of petrol. It
> still seems to be running fine. I've been over and tightened up the obvious
> connections in the fuel system and can't find anything obvious.  We're
> planning to exit italy via the Petit St bernard pass, heading for an
overnight
> in Oyonnax on Saturday,  then heading north taking two or three days to
Calais
> for the ferry back to UK. Does anyone know of a garage on our route through
> France that could have a look at the 100's fuel system for me?
>
> Mike Brooks
> 56
> BN2
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: J Armour <sebring3000@bigpond.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 00:37:37 +0000
References: <CFDE44A3.2B3E%sebring3000@bigpond.com>,
 <BLU436-SMTP165F149FCCFC81C2BBE8BE5A90E0@phx.gbl>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: FASPAC Stan Huntley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Actually, it is, or was,  FASPEC......an abbreviation for FA Specialties.

Richard

> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 20:16:11 +1000
> From: sebring3000@bigpond.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] FW: FASPAC Stan Huntley
>
> Subject:  FASPAC Stan Huntley
>
> Stan was well known in the NW of USA for his BMC activities and cars/parts.
>
> In about 1979/80 I saw him race a very quick MK.1 Sprite at an historic
race
> meeting at Riverside.
>
> Can anyone add more to the details of the Sprite?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com
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From: "james Wojcik" <jvwojcik@comcast.net>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>, "'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYorXJ7og9aTMCS=hSskNwCVCBzLe3At-vfHMKE6ZEa-mA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 20:54:22 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] recent photos of derelict Longbridge plant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Wow, Ira. Room for a lot of LBC restoration projects in there.

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2014 3:08 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] recent photos of derelict Longbridge plant

http://jalopnik.com/the-abandoned-rover-mg-factory-is-certainly-interesting-
1458127857

interesting, but very sad

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 21:03:40 -0700
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: mayorrichard@hotmail.com, sebring3000@bigpond.com, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: FASPAC Stan Huntley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

In the book "Vintage Racing British Sports Cars" by Terry Jackson, (Robert Bentley, 1990) the secton on preparing the Sprite/Midget is primarily an overview of the prep of Stan Huntleys car. It does not say anything about it being a "Sebring" other than it uses a "Sebring hardtop" and "is running an extremely rare set of Armstrong adjustible shocks"
I'm looking for the Faspec sales broshure I got from him in the 1980's. When you called for the broshure you spoke to Stan. We had a nice conversation. Nice guy.
Best
JK
NYC


------------------------------
On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 8:37 PM EDT richard mayor wrote:

>Actually, it is, or was,  FASPEC......an abbreviation for FA Specialties.
>
>Richard
>
>> Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2014 20:16:11 +1000
>> From: sebring3000@bigpond.com
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] FW: FASPAC Stan Huntley
>>
>> Subject:  FASPAC Stan Huntley
>>
>> Stan was well known in the NW of USA for his BMC activities and cars/parts.
>>
>> In about 1979/80 I saw him race a very quick MK.1 Sprite at an historic
>race
>> meeting at Riverside.
>>
>> Can anyone add more to the details of the Sprite?
>> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "Edward J. Keuer" <edwjkeuer@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 06:31:54 -0500
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Healey Contacts in Fredericksburg, TX?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi all,

My wife and I "think" we saw a white Healey driving near the airport in
Fredericksburg last evening the 10th of July. I heard it better than saw it,
but since we are moving here in 1 year and have a BJ8 we wanted to make
contact if the other party is interested.

Any help is appreciated,

Edw J Keuer
Naperville, IL
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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 for <multiple recipients> (version=TLSv1 cipher=ECDHE-RSA-AES128-SHA
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From: "Bluehealey" <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>, "'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYorXJ7og9aTMCS=hSskNwCVCBzLe3At-vfHMKE6ZEa-mA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 13:09:43 +0100
Thread-Index: AQItjAZST3P9oBCjXUYR/x6T/viy7Zre6W6A
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] recent photos of derelict Longbridge plant
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Status: RO

Those pics were taken in 2007.

A lot of this site is now cleared and re-developed as a low budget housing
estate.
I believe the Chinese retained part of the site that had the MGF assembly
plant on it.

Best
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (______\__1957-BN4__1959-AN5__/______)
                       (_____BlueHealey.com______)

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: 10 July 2014 21:08
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] recent photos of derelict Longbridge plant

http://jalopnik.com/the-abandoned-rover-mg-factory-is-certainly-interesting-
1458127857

interesting, but very sad

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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References: <2CCD0B21-8055-4892-9F18-17B2A451A5CE@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 10:04:38 -0500
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: "Edward J. Keuer" <edwjkeuer@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Contacts in Fredericksburg, TX?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Very well could have. There is an active club in San Antonio.
Cheers

jerry. wall
rowlett tx. check www.aquaflodrainage.com
On Jul 11, 2014 6:32 AM, "Edward J. Keuer" <edwjkeuer@comcast.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> My wife and I "think" we saw a white Healey driving near the airport in
> Fredericksburg last evening the 10th of July. I heard it better than saw
> it,
> but since we are moving here in 1 year and have a BJ8 we wanted to make
> contact if the other party is interested.
>
> Any help is appreciated,
>
> Edw J Keuer
> Naperville, IL
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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 <019701cf9d01$01755ab0$04601010$@gmail.com>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 09:07:13 -0700
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] recent photos of derelict Longbridge plant
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Must be a massive project.
I'm working on organizing a tour of transportaion oriented locals for
England and France. Looking for factory and museum tours and came across a
site of photos of old car factories. MG, Morgan, Jag all offer current
tours. I understand one can rent a Morgan from that factory and drive
around. Thought we would take in the Goodwood festival and maybe somethoing
at Silverstone. Beaulie(sic), Schlumpf in France.
Anyway, if I manage to package something for the summer of 2016 I'll post
it here.
Cheers

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 5:09 AM, Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com> wrote:

> Those pics were taken in 2007.
>
> A lot of this site is now cleared and re-developed as a low budget housing
> estate.
> I believe the Chinese retained part of the site that had the MGF assembly
> plant on it.
>
> Best
>   _________________________________________
> (______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
>         (______\__1957-BN4__1959-AN5__/______)
>                        (_____BlueHealey.com______)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of I Erbs
> Sent: 10 July 2014 21:08
> To: Ahealey help
> Subject: [Healeys] recent photos of derelict Longbridge plant
>
>
> http://jalopnik.com/the-abandoned-rover-mg-factory-is-certainly-interesting-
> 1458127857
>
> interesting, but very sad
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:41 2018
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2014 14:54:55 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] mail bounce information
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

After an exchange of emails with Ed I decided to look  into the email
bounce situation so I could better explain what's going on. I found this
site that details the cause and issues with emails bouncing. It can get
pretty technical, but the issue is how do email providers protect clients
from fake emails that try to scam people.
Take look:
http://www.dmarc.org/faq.html

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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From: <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2014 03:02:07 +0000
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Status: RO

been working with a club member who has a bt7 with low oil pressure.  this engine only has about a thousand miles on it since rebuild.  when started up cold the most oil pressure we can get is about 40psi.  when engine gets warm drops to about 30 at 2000rpm.  the bypass valve and spring was replaced with no results.  i have looked at the rocker arms and they just ooze oil out the top of the rockers.  i have pulled one rod cap to see if maybe the rebuilder failed to install new bearings and they look like they just came from the box.  did not have any plastigage to check clearances.  changed what looked like a brand new rotor oil pump for geared pump and the oil presssure actually went down a few psi.  the guage is very slow to react to increase in rpm and i am beginning to suspect an indicating problem somewhere other than guage because we put another good guage on it and nothing changed.  we also pulled the spin on filter adapter to make sure it was on correctly. other than an internal leak of some kind i am out of ideas.  also, at idle we are registering about 5-8psi on hot engine.  any help appreciated.  hjim
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2014 08:06:20 +0200
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: "healeymanjim@hansencc.net" <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] low oil pressure
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

You need to measure the bearing clearances i think. plastigauge is accurate
enought for this purpose.

Gergo


2014-07-12 5:02 GMT+02:00 <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>:

> been working with a club member who has a bt7 with low oil pressure.  this
> engine only has about a thousand miles on it since rebuild.  when started
> up cold the most oil pressure we can get is about 40psi.  when engine gets
> warm drops to about 30 at 2000rpm.  the bypass valve and spring was
> replaced with no results.  i have looked at the rocker arms and they just
> ooze oil out the top of the rockers.  i have pulled one rod cap to see if
> maybe the rebuilder failed to install new bearings and they look like they
> just came from the box.  did not have any plastigage to check clearances.
>  changed what looked like a brand new rotor oil pump for geared pump and
> the oil presssure actually went down a few psi.  the guage is very slow to
> react to increase in rpm and i am beginning to suspect an indicating
> problem somewhere other than guage because we put another good guage on it
> and nothing changed.  we also pulled the spin on filter adapter to make
> sure it was on correctly. other than an inter
>  nal leak of some kind i am out of ideas.  also, at idle we are
> registering about 5-8psi on hot engine.  any help appreciated.  hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 01:23:19 +0000
 FILETIME=[079910B0:01CF9E39]
Subject: [Healeys] FASPEC & Stan Huntley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

FASPEC is an abbreviation for Fiat Automotive Specialties.  Stan Huntley was
into Fiat 500's and 850's but the US market was not that supportive of the
Fiat marque. On the other hand, British sports cars were much more popular in
the early 1970's. The name Fiat Automotive Specialties got shortened to FASPEC
and by 1975, Stan Huntley was well into British sports cars.

Richard
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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References: <BAY173-W5030B6048F7CEA4DE1B649C00B0@phx.gbl>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2014 19:40:04 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FASPEC & Stan Huntley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I met him in 77 and only knew him as a British car guy.

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
On Jul 12, 2014 6:23 PM, "richard mayor" <mayorrichard@hotmail.com> wrote:

> FASPEC is an abbreviation for Fiat Automotive Specialties.  Stan Huntley
> was
> into Fiat 500's and 850's but the US market was not that supportive of the
> Fiat marque. On the other hand, British sports cars were much more popular
> in
> the early 1970's. The name Fiat Automotive Specialties got shortened to
> FASPEC
> and by 1975, Stan Huntley was well into British sports cars.
>
> Richard
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Jul 2014 20:43:52 -0700
 FILETIME=[AA4F98C0:01CF9E4C]
Subject: [Healeys] red Healey in Tahoe
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Anyone on the List driving a red 3000 through South Shore of Lake Tahoe today?
The driver did not look like anyone from our GGAHC.
Rich Kahn
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 <CACPMnYoRkSz7aAXNof387BmWiPOByGbnheLVM23Q41UmSjwmxA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 05:12:19 -0500
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FASPEC & Stan Huntley
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I bought a BN6 hood frame with an Amco hood attached from Stan in 1978.
Finding a hood frame in that particular time frame was a chore.
cheers,


On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 9:40 PM, I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

> I met him in 77 and only knew him as a British car guy.
>
> I Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
> On Jul 12, 2014 6:23 PM, "richard mayor" <mayorrichard@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > FASPEC is an abbreviation for Fiat Automotive Specialties.  Stan Huntley
> > was
> > into Fiat 500's and 850's but the US market was not that supportive of
> the
> > Fiat marque. On the other hand, British sports cars were much more
> popular
> > in
> > the early 1970's. The name Fiat Automotive Specialties got shortened to
> > FASPEC
> > and by 1975, Stan Huntley was well into British sports cars.
> >
> > Richard
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
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From: Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
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Subject: [Healeys] Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

My BJ8 is consistantly running warm and since it has been 35 years since I
last had a radiator repair on this car I think it might be time to upgrade to
something more modern. What are the list suggestions for recoring or replacing
and improving cooling?




Jim Werner
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:42 2018
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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 18:36:26 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <8D16CB38D90D46E-1FE0-D551@webmail-m239.sysops.aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Have it recored with a larger capacity core (more tubes and/or more 
rows) and install a thermoswitch (ca. 95C in/87C out) via a relay 
controlled electric fan fitted on the core or at least as close to it as 
you can get, fit a sleeved thermostat with an opening temp. of 82C. Do 
not forget to fit an override switch to the relay so you can also 
manually switch on the fan. The thermoswitch can be fitted in the top 
radiator hose or in the top tank of the radiator.
Remove the old fixed fan.
Fit a radiator cap 7-10psi that seals absolutely airtight on the 
radiator neck and fit an overflow reservoir with the tube from the 
radiator neck ending very near the bottom of the overflow reservoir. 
This way it will suck back coolant that has been expelled through 
expansion of mainly air and some vapour/coolant. This way the cooling 
system will fill up right to the top of the neck. The first few trips 
you will have to fill up the overflow reservoir regularly as fluid from 
it will replace the air in the cooling system.
Use the green or blue organic coolant, not the red or purple inorganic 
stuff as this may be harmful to gaskets and seals of old(er) cars.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Jim Werner schreef op 13-7-2014 15:14:
> My BJ8 is consistantly running warm and since it has been 35 years since I
> last had a radiator repair on this car I think it might be time to upgrade to
> something more modern. What are the list suggestions for recoring or replacing
> and improving cooling?
>
>
>
>
> Jim Werner
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7845 - datum van uitgifte: 07/13/14
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From: "Dirk Maier" <dirk.e.maier@t-online.de>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 19:40:35 +0200
Thread-Index: Ac+ewY1kNpvdWpqFSOmYLlFyrOku3A==
Content-Language: de
Subject: [Healeys] Video Le Mans Classic 2014
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Status: RO

A short video of Le Mans Classic Friday the 4th of July.

 

http://youtu.be/hX8a_DlByoY

 

Dirk

Germany
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 21:35:34 +0000
 FILETIME=[61166990:01CF9EE2]
Subject: [Healeys] Portland Historic Races
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

Sadly, the Portland Historic Races under the current leadership of HMSA
continues it's decline into a non-event. For many years this event had entries
of almost 300 cars. Today, that is, this weekend, the entry list was a meager
90 cars.  This is fewer cars then during the recession. There are a number of
reasons for this decline in participation, but I will not go into that on this
forum.  Suffice it to say, I am also one of the non-participants, even though
the track (Portland International Raceway) is a mere 10 miles from my home.
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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 16:38:29 -0600
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To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>, Spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net archives
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Status: RO

For those of you who have gone to the archive link below, you probably
noticed that the last few months are missing and the archive is not getting
updated on a regular basis.

Sorry 'bout that, I still haven't tracked down the exact problem, but hope to have
it back to normal soon.

mjb.
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From: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 18:17:42 -0700
References: <RpEt1o01K0NyJgq01pEuXH>
To: Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Why not just have it professionally rodded and cleaned?

alternatively, You can have it recorded for under 300 usd.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 13, 2014, at 6:14 AM, Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com> wrote:
>
> My BJ8 is consistantly running warm and since it has been 35 years since I
> last had a radiator repair on this car I think it might be time to upgrade
to
> something more modern. What are the list suggestions for recoring or
replacing
> and improving cooling?
>
>
>
>
> Jim Werner
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpaynepbr@cox.net
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <RpEt1o01K0NyJgq01pEuXH>
 <376D6A52-75BB-45B4-A5FE-30F585DDC814@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

It is seldom effective to have a radiator rodded and cleaned. To do a 
proper job the radiator top and/or bottom has to come of. It will only 
be slightly less costly and you still have an old radiator core which 
still has some corrosion in/outside. Anyway many shops will do a very 
inferior job more to the tune of fraud, just cleaning the top of the 
pipes visible through the radiator cap and on a good day relying on the 
acid to clean out the internals which it often does not. However there 
are good honest shops around, problem is to find them.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Jonas Payne schreef op 14-7-2014 3:17:
> Why not just have it professionally rodded and cleaned?
>
> alternatively, You can have it recorded for under 300 usd.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 6:14 AM, Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> My BJ8 is consistantly running warm and since it has been 35 years since I
>> last had a radiator repair on this car I think it might be time to upgrade
> to
>> something more modern. What are the list suggestions for recoring or
> replacing
>> and improving cooling?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim Werner
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpaynepbr@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7847 - datum van uitgifte: 07/13/14
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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, <healeys@autox.team.net>,
 <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
References: <RpEt1o01K0NyJgq01pEuXH>
 <376D6A52-75BB-45B4-A5FE-30F585DDC814@cox.net>
 <53C395BD.60607@chello.nl>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2014 08:32:33 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Cleaning the original style radiator I would not recommend. The original 
style is a very inefficient  style of radiator core.
The new style cores with the fins that go vertically between the tube are 
far more efficient at cooling. They can have more tubes and fins per inch.
The next best is an aluminum radiator, they will transfer heat much better 
than a copper brass radiator and will recover much faster.

I have recently installed an aluminum radiator in my BN4. This last weekend 
we had temps at 100 degrees. I was out all day. Engine temp stayed steady at 
170 degrees at driving speeds
Slowed thru town and thru the local shopping center the temp creped up to 
about 200 degrees then as soon as I picked a little speed the temp came 
right back down to 170 . Prior to the alloy radiator
I would run constantly down the freeway at 190 degrees and closer to 200 on 
a hot day, then in traffic it would quickly climb to 215 plus and was slow 
to recover.

I have been chasing a hot engine on my car for the last 3 years. There were 
several things I was fighting, ambient temp, performance engine  .060 
oversized , MSD performance ignition, Ethanol in the gas.
The first 3 I could not do anything about. Then Ethanol in the gas I changed 
to rich needles, which helped a lot. This is because the Ethanol will lean 
out the mixture causing the engine to run hot.
The radiator change was the one thing that made a huge difference. Not only 
did it cool the engine down, it also gave me a little more oil pressure and 
the cockpit temperature dropped a little as well.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com


-----Original Message----- 
From: Oudesluys
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 1:33 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator

It is seldom effective to have a radiator rodded and cleaned. To do a
proper job the radiator top and/or bottom has to come of. It will only
be slightly less costly and you still have an old radiator core which
still has some corrosion in/outside. Anyway many shops will do a very
inferior job more to the tune of fraud, just cleaning the top of the
pipes visible through the radiator cap and on a good day relying on the
acid to clean out the internals which it often does not. However there
are good honest shops around, problem is to find them.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Jonas Payne schreef op 14-7-2014 3:17:
> Why not just have it professionally rodded and cleaned?
>
> alternatively, You can have it recorded for under 300 usd.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 13, 2014, at 6:14 AM, Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> My BJ8 is consistantly running warm and since it has been 35 years since 
>> I
>> last had a radiator repair on this car I think it might be time to 
>> upgrade
> to
>> something more modern. What are the list suggestions for recoring or
> replacing
>> and improving cooling?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim Werner
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpaynepbr@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7847 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 07/13/14
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

 A number of years have passed since I swapped an aluminum radiator for the
original black brass/copper radiator on my MGA race car, but I vaguely recall
from the discussions at that time that aluminum actually is a worse metal for
heat transfer than copper/brass. Can one of you metallurgists comment?

My understanding at the time had nothing to do with inherent heat transfer,
but rather that I needed a new radiator since mine was very clogged up, and to
buy a replacement original, or recore my original was more expensive than the
cool-looking aluminum replacement I could buy from the standard source in
Phoenix. As an additioanal incentive, the aluminum radiator -- which was a
bolt-in substitute -- was lighter than the copper/brass original. Of course it
worked better, simply because it was brand new and totally uncorroded, in
contrast to the 40 years of corrosion in my old radiator.

Any other thoughts?

Gary Anderson
Editor at large, Austin-Healey Magazine.



David Nock wrote:
Cleaning the original style radiator I would not recommend. The original style
is a very inefficient  style of radiator core.The new style cores with the
fins that go vertically between the tube are far more efficient at cooling.
They can have more tubes and fins per inch.
The next best is an aluminum radiator, they will transfer heat much better
than a copper brass radiator and will recover much faster.I have recently
installed an aluminum radiator in my BN4. This last weekend we had temps at
100 degrees. I was out all day. Engine temp stayed steady at 170 degrees at
driving speedsSlowed thru town and thru the local shopping center the temp
creped up to about 200 degrees then as soon as I picked a little speed the
temp came right back down to 170 . Prior to the alloy radiatorI would run
constantly down the freeway at 190 degrees and closer to 200 on a hot day,
then in traffic it would quickly climb to 215 plus and was slow to recover.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:43 2018
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

http://www.coolcraft.com/radiator-core-styles#Alum

According to US Radiator, the design and , construction of the core has more
to do with cooling efficiency than the materials used; but in general
aluminum heat transfer is less efficient than brass.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
editorgary@aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 2:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?

 A number of years have passed since I swapped an aluminum radiator for the
original black brass/copper radiator on my MGA race car, but I vaguely
recall from the discussions at that time that aluminum actually is a worse
metal for heat transfer than copper/brass. Can one of you metallurgists
comment?

Any other thoughts?

Gary Anderson
Editor at large, Austin-Healey Magazine.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 06:14:32 +1000
From: Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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 <8D16DA67C774707-81F0-15747@webmail-vm012.sysops.aol.com>
 more information
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi Gary, copper is a better conductor than aluminium, but solder isn't, 
and there is a lot of soldered surfaces in a copper / brass radiator. I 
agree it's hard to compare an old radiator to a new one.
Regards
Larry Varley

On 15/07/2014 4:13 AM, editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>   A number of years have passed since I swapped an aluminum radiator for the
> original black brass/copper radiator on my MGA race car, but I vaguely recall
> from the discussions at that time that aluminum actually is a worse metal for
> heat transfer than copper/brass. Can one of you metallurgists comment?
>
> My understanding at the time had nothing to do with inherent heat transfer,
> but rather that I needed a new radiator since mine was very clogged up, and to
> buy a replacement original, or recore my original was more expensive than the
> cool-looking aluminum replacement I could buy from the standard source in
> Phoenix. As an additioanal incentive, the aluminum radiator -- which was a
> bolt-in substitute -- was lighter than the copper/brass original. Of course it
> worked better, simply because it was brand new and totally uncorroded, in
> contrast to the 40 years of corrosion in my old radiator.
>
> Any other thoughts?
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor at large, Austin-Healey Magazine.
>
>
>
> David Nock wrote:
> Cleaning the original style radiator I would not recommend. The original style
> is a very inefficient  style of radiator core.The new style cores with the
> fins that go vertically between the tube are far more efficient at cooling.
> They can have more tubes and fins per inch.
> The next best is an aluminum radiator, they will transfer heat much better
> than a copper brass radiator and will recover much faster.I have recently
> installed an aluminum radiator in my BN4. This last weekend we had temps at
> 100 degrees. I was out all day. Engine temp stayed steady at 170 degrees at
> driving speedsSlowed thru town and thru the local shopping center the temp
> creped up to about 200 degrees then as soon as I picked a little speed the
> temp came right back down to 170 . Prior to the alloy radiatorI would run
> constantly down the freeway at 190 degrees and closer to 200 on a hot day,
> then in traffic it would quickly climb to 215 plus and was slow to recover.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley@cosmos.net.au
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7849 - Release Date: 07/14/14
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

It is difficult to compare the heat transfer of aluminium and 
copper/brass radiators. In theory copper conducts the heat better than 
aluminium. However it may well be that because of the construction an 
aftermarket aluminium radiator dissipates more heat than a standard 
brass/copper one. A brass/copper radiator with an improved/enlarged core 
would as well.
Anyone got any numbers for heat transfer per square meter or foot for 
the various options?
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Larry Varley schreef op 14-7-2014 22:14:
> Hi Gary, copper is a better conductor than aluminium, but solder 
> isn't, and there is a lot of soldered surfaces in a copper / brass 
> radiator. I agree it's hard to compare an old radiator to a new one.
> Regards
> Larry Varley
>
> On 15/07/2014 4:13 AM, editorgary@aol.com wrote:
>>   A number of years have passed since I swapped an aluminum radiator 
>> for the
>> original black brass/copper radiator on my MGA race car, but I 
>> vaguely recall
>> from the discussions at that time that aluminum actually is a worse 
>> metal for
>> heat transfer than copper/brass. Can one of you metallurgists comment?
>>
>> My understanding at the time had nothing to do with inherent heat 
>> transfer,
>> but rather that I needed a new radiator since mine was very clogged 
>> up, and to
>> buy a replacement original, or recore my original was more expensive 
>> than the
>> cool-looking aluminum replacement I could buy from the standard 
>> source in
>> Phoenix. As an additioanal incentive, the aluminum radiator -- which 
>> was a
>> bolt-in substitute -- was lighter than the copper/brass original. Of 
>> course it
>> worked better, simply because it was brand new and totally 
>> uncorroded, in
>> contrast to the 40 years of corrosion in my old radiator.
>>
>> Any other thoughts?
>>
>> Gary Anderson
>> Editor at large, Austin-Healey Magazine.
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock wrote:
>> Cleaning the original style radiator I would not recommend. The 
>> original style
>> is a very inefficient  style of radiator core.The new style cores 
>> with the
>> fins that go vertically between the tube are far more efficient at 
>> cooling.
>> They can have more tubes and fins per inch.
>> The next best is an aluminum radiator, they will transfer heat much 
>> better
>> than a copper brass radiator and will recover much faster.I have 
>> recently
>> installed an aluminum radiator in my BN4. This last weekend we had 
>> temps at
>> 100 degrees. I was out all day. Engine temp stayed steady at 170 
>> degrees at
>> driving speedsSlowed thru town and thru the local shopping center the 
>> temp
>> creped up to about 200 degrees then as soon as I picked a little 
>> speed the
>> temp came right back down to 170 . Prior to the alloy radiatorI would 
>> run
>> constantly down the freeway at 190 degrees and closer to 200 on a hot 
>> day,
>> then in traffic it would quickly climb to 215 plus and was slow to 
>> recover.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley@cosmos.net.au
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7849 - Release Date: 
>> 07/14/14
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
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>
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>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7852 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 07/14/14
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:43 2018
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2014 16:04:04 -0700
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.3.1405360802.13449.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <8D16DA67C774707-81F0-15747@webmail-vm012.sysops.aol.com>
 <53C43A28.3020909@cosmos.net.au> <SMaQ1o0120NyJgq01MaRlW>
 <7D7DC489-4154-4E98-8B35-CCC0E857D8A3@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Actually for the materials, the ability to dissipate heat is easily measured
and aluminum in a similar configuration does not perform as well as brass. The
benefit of aluminum is weight savings and strength (which allows for better
designs).

One company selling aluminum radiators has published numbers for the side
tanks where a lot of the heat is reportedly dissipated.

here's a graphic that they use that highlights there extruded tank design with
more surface area out-performing all tanks.
www.flex-a-lite-blog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/radiator-heat-rejection.j
pg?w=285

They go on to say:
"Heat rejection is the term for measuring the ability of a material to
transfer heat to the air. This is what a radiators job boils down to: Take
engine heat that has been transferred to the engine coolant and transfer it to
the atmosphere. Heat rejection is measured by the amount of British Thermal
Units (BTU) per hour the system can dissipate. Higher BTU/hour means more heat
transfer and better cooling.
Brass radiators came in nearly all vehicles until the 80s. A typical
original-equipment brass radiator rejects heat at a rate of about 1,500
BTU/hour. Thats pretty good, and this is why brass was chosen as the material
for radiators. In the 80s, car manufactures wanted to reduce costs and lower
vehicle weight. This led to changing the radiator design to use composite
(plastic) tanks with an aluminum core. The plastic tanks transfer about 1,000
BTU/hour; considerably less than the traditional brass construction. Next we
come to aluminum radiators. It might surprise you to learn that the typical,
smooth aftermarket aluminum radiator tanks dissipate heat at a rate of about
only 700 BTU/hour! Thats less than half the BTU of brass sidetanks!"


Anyway, the common wisdom is that core design and not material is what matters
most.
_______________________________________________
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2014 19:40:18 -0400
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Warwick (100M) production photo
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi, I have this vague recollection of somebody  a few years ago posting some
pictures of the Warwick factory during 100M production. Ive lost them if I
kept copies.

Does anyone recall or have these picture. At least one was inside and one
outside.

Thanks,

Randy
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:43 2018
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From: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 12:12:41 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys - Illuminated Garage Signage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi guys

Sorry to bother the list

In the past couple of months the VP of one of the US clubs advised that they
were producing illuminated Austin Healey signs which were avaiable for
purchase.

Unfortunately I appear to have deleted the post

Any one who retained a copy of the post could you forward same or
alternatively if you know the details of the club producing the signs contact
details would be appreciated

Cheers

Graeme M ( BJ8 )
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:43 2018
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2014 19:47:46 -0700
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Subject: [Healeys] Healeys - Illuminated Garage Signage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I did find this:

 
> https://www.facebook.com/NorthernIndianaAustinHealeyClub



> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Graeme Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 7:12 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Healeys - Illuminated Garage Signage
> 
> 
>> Hi guys
>>
>> Sorry to bother the list
>>
>> In the past couple of months the VP of one of the US clubs advised that 
>> they
>> were producing illuminated Austin Healey signs which were avaiable for
>> purchase.
>>
>> Unfortunately I appear to have deleted the post
>>
>> Any one who retained a copy of the post could you forward same or
>> alternatively if you know the details of the club producing the signs 
>> contact
>> details would be appreciated
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Graeme M ( BJ8 )
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722@comcast.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:43 2018
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References: <EB2C79D689854826951E26CB6923226D@Study>
To: molony@dodo.com.au, healeys@autox.team.net, bt7mk23000@yahoo.com
From: Jim Werner <jwhlyadv@aol.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys - Illuminated Garage Signage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

John Eslinger of the Northern Indiana Austin Healey Club are selling those.
Contact John at bt7mk23000@yahoo.com.

On Facebook look at the Northern Indiana Austin Healey Club page for photos
and information.


Jim Werner



-----Original Message-----
From: Graeme Molony <molony@dodo.com.au>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jul 14, 2014 10:17 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys - Illuminated Garage Signage


Hi guys

Sorry to bother the list

In the past couple of months the VP of one of the US clubs advised that they
were producing illuminated Austin Healey signs which were avaiable for
purchase.

Unfortunately I appear to have deleted the post

Any one who retained a copy of the post could you forward same or
alternatively if you know the details of the club producing the signs contact
details would be appreciated

Cheers

Graeme M ( BJ8 )
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwhlyadv@aol.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:43 2018
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 7:42:55 -0400
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net>, Healey Forum <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys - Illuminated Garage Signage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I have one exactly like this except it isn't illuminated.
---- Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
I did find this:

 
> https://www.facebook.com/NorthernIndianaAustinHealeyClub



> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Graeme Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
> To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 7:12 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Healeys - Illuminated Garage Signage
> 
> 
>> Hi guys
>>
>> Sorry to bother the list
>>
>> In the past couple of months the VP of one of the US clubs advised that 
>> they
>> were producing illuminated Austin Healey signs which were avaiable for
>> purchase.
>>
>> Unfortunately I appear to have deleted the post
>>
>> Any one who retained a copy of the post could you forward same or
>> alternatively if you know the details of the club producing the signs 
>> contact
>> details would be appreciated
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Graeme M ( BJ8 )
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722@comcast.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Wilko2" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
References: <mailman.3.1405360802.13449.healeys@autox.team.net>
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 08:38:08 -0700
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I was skeptical when going to the aluminum radiator as well I had been told 
all the reasons not to use a alloy radiator.
But there is nothing better then actually using it a road testing it for 
your self. So I did.
All the findings over a 2000 mile trip were that the alloy radiator was far 
superior to the copper / brass radiator that I had
been using, and no it was not an old radiator. I had had it re cored several 
years ago and then to make sure it wasnbt a problem
I had it cleaned and inspected about 2 years ago.

Conclusion was that the installation of the alloy radiator cured a hot 
running engine. Proven by using it.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com


-----Original Message----- 
From: Wilko2
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2014 4:04 PM
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?

Actually for the materials, the ability to dissipate heat is easily measured
and aluminum in a similar configuration does not perform as well as brass. 
The
benefit of aluminum is weight savings and strength (which allows for better
designs).

One company selling aluminum radiators has published numbers for the side
tanks where a lot of the heat is reportedly dissipated.

here's a graphic that they use that highlights there extruded tank design 
with
more surface area out-performing all tanks.
www.flex-a-lite-blog.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/radiator-heat-rejection.j
pg?w=285

They go on to say:
"Heat rejection is the term for measuring the ability of a material to
transfer heat to the air. This is what a radiators job boils down to: Take
engine heat that has been transferred to the engine coolant and transfer it 
to
the atmosphere. Heat rejection is measured by the amount of British Thermal
Units (BTU) per hour the system can dissipate. Higher BTU/hour means more 
heat
transfer and better cooling.
Brass radiators came in nearly all vehicles until the 80s. A typical
original-equipment brass radiator rejects heat at a rate of about 1,500
BTU/hour. Thats pretty good, and this is why brass was chosen as the 
material
for radiators. In the 80s, car manufactures wanted to reduce costs and 
lower
vehicle weight. This led to changing the radiator design to use composite
(plastic) tanks with an aluminum core. The plastic tanks transfer about 
1,000
BTU/hour; considerably less than the traditional brass construction. Next we
come to aluminum radiators. It might surprise you to learn that the typical,
smooth aftermarket aluminum radiator tanks dissipate heat at a rate of about
only 700 BTU/hour! Thats less than half the BTU of brass sidetanks!"


Anyway, the common wisdom is that core design and not material is what 
matters
most.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 13:47:38 -0400
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To: David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Does anyone know the weight difference between Healey aluminum and alloy radiators?

Al Malin
Tricarb
 
On Jul 15, 2014, at 11:38 AM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I was skeptical when going to the aluminum radiator as well I had been told all the reasons not to use a alloy radiator.
> But there is nothing better then actually using it a road testing it for your self. So I did.
> All the findings over a 2000 mile trip were that the alloy radiator was far superior to the copper / brass radiator that I had
> been using, and no it was not an old radiator. I had had it re cored several years ago and then to make sure it wasnbt a problem
> I had it cleaned and inspected about 2 years ago.
> 
> Conclusion was that the installation of the alloy radiator cured a hot running engine. Proven by using it.
> 
> 
> 
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Al Malin" <amalin@mac.com>
References: <mailman.3.1405360802.13449.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <8D16DA67C774707-81F0-15747@webmail-vm012.sysops.aol.com>
 <53C43A28.3020909@cosmos.net.au> <SMaQ1o0120NyJgq01MaRlW@mac.com>
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Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 11:23:35 -0700
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I have another one coming in  on thursday so I can check then and  let you 
know




David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: Al Malin
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 10:47 AM
To: David Nock BCS
Cc: Wilko2 ; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?

Does anyone know the weight difference between Healey aluminum and alloy 
radiators?

Al Malin
Tricarb

On Jul 15, 2014, at 11:38 AM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net> 
wrote:

> I was skeptical when going to the aluminum radiator as well I had been 
> told all the reasons not to use a alloy radiator.
> But there is nothing better then actually using it a road testing it for 
> your self. So I did.
> All the findings over a 2000 mile trip were that the alloy radiator was 
> far superior to the copper / brass radiator that I had
> been using, and no it was not an old radiator. I had had it re cored 
> several years ago and then to make sure it wasnbt a problem
> I had it cleaned and inspected about 2 years ago.
>
> Conclusion was that the installation of the alloy radiator cured a hot 
> running engine. Proven by using it.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 11:38:26 -0700
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] lemans classic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

http://www.lemansclassic.com/en/videos/index/evenement/23/nom/Le+Mans+Classic

healeys, jaguars and others oh my!

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 14:48:35 -0400
To: David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

This decision may soon become academic as it becomes increasingly difficult
to find someone with the know-how to repair brass/copper radiators, and
since the new aluminum units are designed to be replaced rather than fixed
it is doubtful that anyone will acquire the skills in the future.

Here in Southern Maryland the one guy who ran an old-fashioned radiator
shop closed his doors several years ago.  It was neat to visit his
place--he had a couple of large immersion tanks for leak-testing radiators
and there was a naked gas flame always burning for--I guess--lighting up
his torch.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 2:23 PM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

> I have another one coming in  on thursday so I can check then and  let you
> know
>
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> -----Original Message----- From: Al Malin
> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 10:47 AM
> To: David Nock BCS
> Cc: Wilko2 ; healeys@autox.team.net
>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
>
> Does anyone know the weight difference between Healey aluminum and alloy
> radiators?
>
> Al Malin
> Tricarb
>
> On Jul 15, 2014, at 11:38 AM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
>  I was skeptical when going to the aluminum radiator as well I had been
>> told all the reasons not to use a alloy radiator.
>> But there is nothing better then actually using it a road testing it for
>> your self. So I did.
>> All the findings over a 2000 mile trip were that the alloy radiator was
>> far superior to the copper / brass radiator that I had
>> been using, and no it was not an old radiator. I had had it re cored
>> several years ago and then to make sure it wasnb t a problem
>> I had it cleaned and inspected about 2 years ago.
>>
>> Conclusion was that the installation of the alloy radiator cured a hot
>> running engine. Proven by using it.
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> 209-948-8767
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:44 2018
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2014 12:49:11 -0700
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I had mine rebuilt. New more row core. Had my heater core checked out too.
it was clean... So my car now has original type but heavy duty radiator,
sleeved thermostat, and Texas cooler. It has never run as cool as it  does
now. Around 190 degrees. Of course it spikes when I shut it down. I ran an
electric fan when it was my daily driver in Los Angeles 20-30 years ago.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 11:48 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
wrote:

> This decision may soon become academic as it becomes increasingly difficult
> to find someone with the know-how to repair brass/copper radiators, and
> since the new aluminum units are designed to be replaced rather than fixed
> it is doubtful that anyone will acquire the skills in the future.
>
> Here in Southern Maryland the one guy who ran an old-fashioned radiator
> shop closed his doors several years ago.  It was neat to visit his
> place--he had a couple of large immersion tanks for leak-testing radiators
> and there was a naked gas flame always burning for--I guess--lighting up
> his torch.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 2:23 PM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
> > I have another one coming in  on thursday so I can check then and  let
> you
> > know
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > David Nock
> > British Car Specialists
> > 209-948-8767
> > www.britishcarspecialists.com
> > -----Original Message----- From: Al Malin
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 10:47 AM
> > To: David Nock BCS
> > Cc: Wilko2 ; healeys@autox.team.net
> >
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
> >
> > Does anyone know the weight difference between Healey aluminum and alloy
> > radiators?
> >
> > Al Malin
> > Tricarb
> >
> > On Jul 15, 2014, at 11:38 AM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> >  I was skeptical when going to the aluminum radiator as well I had been
> >> told all the reasons not to use a alloy radiator.
> >> But there is nothing better then actually using it a road testing it for
> >> your self. So I did.
> >> All the findings over a 2000 mile trip were that the alloy radiator was
> >> far superior to the copper / brass radiator that I had
> >> been using, and no it was not an old radiator. I had had it re cored
> >> several years ago and then to make sure it wasnb t a problem
> >> I had it cleaned and inspected about 2 years ago.
> >>
> >> Conclusion was that the installation of the alloy radiator cured a hot
> >> running engine. Proven by using it.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> David Nock
> >> British Car Specialists
> >> 209-948-8767
> >> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> > options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

About 6 years ago I was evaluating purchasing a new aluminum radiator vs.
re-coring my original radiator with a new high efficiency copper core. I ask
Dennis Welch what their aluminum radiator weighed. I do not recall the actual
weights but the difference in weight between the new aluminum radiator & my
original radiator with original core was only approx. 2-3 Lbs.
I chose to have my original radiator re-cored & am very happy with the
improvement & I prefer the look of the original header tank with the Coventry
Radiator data plate.
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
To: David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 15, 2014 12:48 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?


Does anyone know the weight difference between Healey aluminum and alloy
radiators?

Al Malin
Tricarb
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Apple Hydraulics Rebuilt Rear Shock Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Listers may be interested to read the following email that I have sent to
Apple Hydraulics today:
Please read the following as this information is very important with
respect to all Austin Healey rear shock links.
You have attached to the links a red tag which states the following;
"CASTLE NUT W/COTTER PIN SHOULD ONLY BE A SNUG FIT ON SHOCK ARM, AS THIS IS
A PIVOT POINT - DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN
TAPERED PIN CAN BE LOCKED DOWN TIGHT AT SUSPENSION END"
I believe it would be remiss of me not to point out that this instruction
is incorrect and that following it will cause damage to the vehicle.
First the taper pin end of the link is fitted at the shock arm on all
models of Austin Healey 100, 100/6 and 3000 Austin Healey and obviously
should be fully tightened.
The parallel stud end of the link is attached to the axle on all models of
Austin Healey 100, 100/6 and 3000 and contrary to your recommendation
should be fully tightened. This connection is not a pivot, as you indicate,
and if this fixing is not fully tightened rapid wear of the pin and
mounting hole in the axle bracket will occur as this point is not
lubricated in any way.
In addition please note the following with respect to the links for early
Austin Healeys 100 prior to chassis number C221535 which use the spiral
bevel differential.
These vehicles are the only  model of Austin Healey 100, 100/6 and 3000
vehicles which use castellated nuts on the axle end of the shock links.
I would strongly recommend that you *do not *to provide 7/16" - 20 UNF
castellated nuts for use on these links as you did with mine. The threads
on the axle end of these links is 7/16"- 18 BSF and the loose fitting UNF
nut will strip long before full tightening torque is reached damaging the
link.
I would also suggest that you may want to contact those customers to whom
you have sent this information to preclude the possibility that they may
damage their vehicles by following your instructions.

Michael S
BBD Engineering
_______________________________________________
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Apple Hydraulics Rebuilt Rear Shock Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I'm confused (granted, not an unusual condition). Are they saying to not cinch down tight the upper part of the link that connects to the axle? Preposterous. Aren't the rubber bushes meant to handle any flexing/twistin? 

I'd like to get Peter Caldwell's take on this. 

Bob 
----- Original Message -----



Listers may be interested to read the following email that I have sent to 
Apple Hydraulics today: 
Please read the following as this information is very important with 
respect to all Austin Healey rear shock links. 
You have attached to the links a red tag which states the following; 
"CASTLE NUT W/COTTER PIN SHOULD ONLY BE A SNUG FIT ON SHOCK ARM, AS THIS IS 
A PIVOT POINT - DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN 
TAPERED PIN CAN BE LOCKED DOWN TIGHT AT SUSPENSION END" 
I believe it would be remiss of me not to point out that this instruction 
is incorrect and that following it will cause damage to the vehicle. 
First the taper pin end of the link is fitted at the shock arm on all 
models of Austin Healey 100, 100/6 and 3000 Austin Healey and obviously 
should be fully tightened. 
The parallel stud end of the link is attached to the axle on all models of 
Austin Healey 100, 100/6 and 3000 and contrary to your recommendation 
should be fully tightened. This connection is not a pivot, as you indicate, 
and if this fixing is not fully tightened rapid wear of the pin and 
mounting hole in the axle bracket will occur as this point is not 
lubricated in any way. 
In addition please note the following with respect to the links for early 
Austin Healeys 100 prior to chassis number C221535 which use the spiral 
bevel differential. 
These vehicles are the only model of Austin Healey 100, 100/6 and 3000 
vehicles which use castellated nuts on the axle end of the shock links. 
I would strongly recommend that you *do not *to provide 7/16" - 20 UNF 
castellated nuts for use on these links as you did with mine. The threads 
on the axle end of these links is 7/16"- 18 BSF and the loose fitting UNF 
nut will strip long before full tightening torque is reached damaging the 
link. 
I would also suggest that you may want to contact those customers to whom 
you have sent this information to preclude the possibility that they may 
damage their vehicles by following your instructions. 

Michael S 
BBD Engineering 
_______________________________________________ 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 11:48:15 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

David,

While searching for ways to cool my V8 Healey, I contacted a very reputable
custom aluminum radiator maker and told the tech support guy that I was
running an uprated Healey radiator and would like to get some additional
cooling.  He very candidly told me he could sell me a new radiator, but it
wouldn't make a big difference over what I already had.  Your real world
experience seems to have worked out a little differently.  My cooling is
what I'd call "adequate" for New England.  I have a 16" Maradyne electric
fan installed as a puller along with a shroud I fabricated.  (not possible
to do this without removing the shroud crossbrace and tilting the radiator
back)  I run between 190 and 210 degrees, which concerned me at first until
reading this is what 5.0L Mustang motors run stock.


On Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 11:38 AM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

> I was skeptical when going to the aluminum radiator as well I had been
> told all the reasons not to use a alloy radiator.
> But there is nothing better then actually using it a road testing it for
> your self. So I did.
> All the findings over a 2000 mile trip were that the alloy radiator was
> far superior to the copper / brass radiator that I had
> been using, and no it was not an old radiator. I had had it re cored
> several years ago and then to make sure it wasnb t a problem
> I had it cleaned and inspected about 2 years ago.
>
> Conclusion was that the installation of the alloy radiator cured a hot
> running engine. Proven by using it.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 10:25:47 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac+hGvs+4BrrMBtcSW+z7WMl1SOnxw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] C3 Corvette
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

If anybody knows anything about C3 Vettes, please contact me offline at
jpaynepbr@cox.net .

I am helping to move one along for a friend.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpaynepbr@cox.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LKYuTp5Ps-XfQaB9HnsKOHw5DQ-j6P9_RgW+WkKx=G-HA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 12:29:57 -0700
Thread-Index: AQDw8+aKPoDDaXxHUQSB3040WccfLZ1gcCcg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Apple Hydraulics Rebuilt Rear Shock Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

They rebuilt my shock links about three years ago and there was no warning
about this. They did not supply nuts. I installed them with standard nuts
and lock washers. After about 2500 miles in the last year they seem fine.

John Spaur
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Al Malin" <amalin@mac.com>
References: <mailman.3.1405360802.13449.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <8D16DA67C774707-81F0-15747@webmail-vm012.sysops.aol.com>
 <53C43A28.3020909@cosmos.net.au> <SMaQ1o0120NyJgq01MaRlW@mac.com>
 <7D7DC489-4154-4E98-8B35-CCC0E857D8A3@cox.net>
 <B5CB6D06-2803-4E67-A9E4-4EFA0B778B11@cox.net>
 <B769711329164BBFAA15EF186ACBC4FA@DavidNockHP>
 <3482AB77-3451-446E-9CE8-1661F7872B06@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 14:13:28 -0700
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Just got one in
    alloy                          12.4 lbs
    Copper / Brass         21.5 lbs



David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com


-----Original Message----- 
From: Al Malin
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 10:47 AM
To: David Nock BCS
Cc: Wilko2 ; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?

Does anyone know the weight difference between Healey aluminum and alloy 
radiators?

Al Malin
Tricarb

On Jul 15, 2014, at 11:38 AM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net> 
wrote:

> I was skeptical when going to the aluminum radiator as well I had been 
> told all the reasons not to use a alloy radiator.
> But there is nothing better then actually using it a road testing it for 
> your self. So I did.
> All the findings over a 2000 mile trip were that the alloy radiator was 
> far superior to the copper / brass radiator that I had
> been using, and no it was not an old radiator. I had had it re cored 
> several years ago and then to make sure it wasnbt a problem
> I had it cleaned and inspected about 2 years ago.
>
> Conclusion was that the installation of the alloy radiator cured a hot 
> running engine. Proven by using it.
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 14:26:29 -0700
To: David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

what's the cost difference?

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Wed, Jul 16, 2014 at 2:13 PM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

> Just got one in
>    alloy                          12.4 lbs
>    Copper / Brass         21.5 lbs
>
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Al Malin
> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 10:47 AM
> To: David Nock BCS
> Cc: Wilko2 ; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Aluminum vs Copper/Brass Radiator?
>
> Does anyone know the weight difference between Healey aluminum and alloy
> radiators?
>
> Al Malin
> Tricarb
>
> On Jul 15, 2014, at 11:38 AM, David Nock BCS <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
> wrote:
>
>  I was skeptical when going to the aluminum radiator as well I had been
>> told all the reasons not to use a alloy radiator.
>> But there is nothing better then actually using it a road testing it for
>> your self. So I did.
>> All the findings over a 2000 mile trip were that the alloy radiator was
>> far superior to the copper / brass radiator that I had
>> been using, and no it was not an old radiator. I had had it re cored
>> several years ago and then to make sure it wasnb t a problem
>> I had it cleaned and inspected about 2 years ago.
>>
>> Conclusion was that the installation of the alloy radiator cured a hot
>> running engine. Proven by using it.
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> British Car Specialists
>> 209-948-8767
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>>
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> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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> options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:44 2018
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From: "Robert F. Begani" <rfbegani@speakeasy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 17:28:06 -0400
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Subject: [Healeys] The shop that reimagines Porche 911's
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Status: RO

http://tinyurl.com/nl9jx5t      View the video!

 

For $300,000 to $500,000 restoration and improvement, I guess all Healey
Owners should get in line to be the next car reimagined.  Or, isn't that
what we are all doing on a Beer budget.

 

Bob Begani

BJ8
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Thread-Topic: Pulling camshaft in situ ...
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Subject: [Healeys] Pulling camshaft in situ ...
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... possible (BJ8)? Have to remove the grill? 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
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From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2014 19:11:00 -0400
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch and Overdrive Repairs
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Status: RO

Listers -

Since Conclave 2014 I have spent time fixing several issues that crept up
during the trip up from FL. I have replaced the clutch, made some adjustments
to the transmission and repaired the OD.

I send this note to thank all that have provided or offered support. Without
this list I couldn't have done what I've done. A very special thank you needs
to be given to Steve Byers and Michael Salter for the tips given and the
support provided.

This list is fantastic!!

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:44 2018
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From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pulling camshaft in situ ...
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Status: RO

Bob,  There was some discussion about this on the list some years back
and it can be done.  On the factory racing Healeys the radiator and
grill have to come out and a relief cut was made on the cross member
that is in front of the radiator to allow the cam to clear on it's way
out of the block.  You may be able to avoid the relief cut by unbolting
the forward engine mounts at the frame and jack up the front of the
engine to enable the cam to clear the cross member.  Maybe some one on
the list has first hand experience with this.  In addition you are
going to have to gain access to the front pulley nut and remove the
pulley and timing chain cover which I did many years ago by jacking up
the front of the engine so I could replace a timing chain tensioner.
The nut was so tight, I had to use an impact wrench to get the nut
loose.

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 16, 2014 6:04 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Pulling camshaft in situ ...


... possible (BJ8)? Have to remove the grill?

Bob

--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 14:29:42 -0400
From: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Horns
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Status: RO

A few days/weeks ago someone sent a note to the list on louder/upgraded
horns from NAPA.

Would that individual please contact me off list.

I cannot find anything in the archives on it and I need to replace both of
my horns.

Thanks,

Fred
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From: "Steve Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 11:42:31 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pulling camshaft in situ ...
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Status: RO

Don't forget to disconnect the longitudinal throttle rod.

 

Undo front motor mounts. You might want to replace a bolt on each side with
a long bolt so the engine has an alignment guide.

 

Remove grille, radiator and fan

 

If you have the dampener with the bolted pulley, you can substitute two long
bolts and use this setup, with a big socket and breaker bar, to undo the big
nut:

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/93312770

 

Beyond removal of front pulley, have no further experience-based comment as
I haven't removed a camshaft - there'll be issues with removing the timing
gears and chain and removing the distributor drive and getting it all
aligned properly on reinstall.

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
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 <8b37850c-3cf9-4155-bedd-5ca47ff5c83f@me.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 20:23:12 +0100
From: mike brooks <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Robert Duquette <robert.duquette@me.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to
 be?/Scotland - Italy - Scotland final trip report.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Robert,

We just arrived home in Scotland last night. Since I do all the
driving and had just done 10 hours I decided to leave a reply until this
evening. I am copying this to The List - hope you don't mind.


The short
answer is I'm not sure. The 100 had been running fine down through England and
France. We had been over the Grand St Bernard Pass at over 2000metres high
with no problem. it was shortly after we filled up with petrol for the first
time in Italy that we noticed the smell. The car still seemed to be running
fine. The smell lasted the whole five days we were in Italy, mostly at high
altitude. The car, whilst still seeming to run OK was only doing 17 mpg rather
than the usual 25 - 27. However, most of the trips were short ones, and all of
them were up and down serious inclines. After we left Italy, over the Petit St
Bernard Pass into France, the smell continued intermittently. But after two
more fuel fill-ups in France, we noticed the smell had disappeared (well,
reverted to the usual "Healey Smell" we are used to!!). After that, the 100
continued to run well, and returned over 27 mpg up through France to the ferry
at Calais. Once back in England,
 we continued north and after two fuel fills I was convinced the Healey was
pulling better than ever. And calculations showed even better mpg figures of
28 and 29 over two fills. I don't have a clear conclusion. However, I have the
following thoughts:-

 - did we have a bad batch of fuel in Italy?
 - did
running at high altitude make the engine run so rich that we were smelling
unburnt fuel?

 - what about ethanol? UK is less than 5%, France is 10%, don't
know about Italy.

Others may have ideas.

I've just added up the total
mileage - 2633 miles, 96.44 UK gallons of petrol = 27.3 mpg. Only issues with
the car were a broken boot prop bracket and several door seals coming adrift -
easy fixes. Not bad for a self-maintained 58 year old car?

On another subject
we called in to the Heritage Motor Museum at Gaydon. I had always wanted to
see it, had passed it on the M40 several times times, but had never planned
properly to stop in the past. I can report, for those who haven't been, that
it is a must for anyone interested in British cars. There were only two
Healeys there, both 3000's. But there was an A90 Atlantic. Highlights fo me
where the several famous prototypes, production firsts and well-known
competition cars.

All in all it was a great trip. Where next year?

Regards
Mike Brooks
'56 BN2
Scotland
 

Reply to: mike.brooks@alumni.warwick.ac.uk 
________________________________
 From: Robert Duquette
<robert.duquette@me.com>
To: "hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk" <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>
Sent: Wednesday, 16 July 2014, 20:35
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100
What did it turn out to be?

I had a similar issue with my BN1 last summer.  I
could smell gas.  The rear carb was dripping on to the exhaust manifold.  It
was just a loose nut ( bolt? ).

Robert
I intend to live forever, or die
trying.

On Jul 10, 2014, at 04:55 PM, "hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk"
<hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:


We're still in val d'aosta and the 100 has
started to smell of petrol. It
>still seems to be running fine. I've been over
and tightened up the obvious
>connections in the fuel system and can't find
anything obvious. We're
>planning to exit italy via the Petit St bernard pass,
heading for an overnight
>in Oyonnax on Saturday, then heading north taking
two or three days to Calais
>for the ferry back to UK. Does anyone know of a
garage on our route through
>France that could have a look at the 100's fuel
system for me?
>
>Mike Brooks
>56
>BN2
>
>Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net
>Suggested annual donation $12.75
>Archive:
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
robertduquette@sympatico.ca'>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ro
bertduquette@sympatico.ca
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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From: jim lesher <lesherj@outlook.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 15:28:21 -0400
 FILETIME=[45587C00:01CFA1F5]
Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 hardtop identification code
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Where can I find the details that will tell me what the code means on the
factory hardtop for my Longbridge

the code stamped on the upper passenger's side aluminum trim is 01157380
 if you want to see a photo of the code, just send me a note
thank you for any information you can share

jim lesher
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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 17 Jul 2014 20:12:38 +0000 (UTC)
From: "Herbert Miller" <hgmiller3@qwest.net>
To: "'Steve Gerow'" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <007101cfa1ee$e096eeb0$a1c4cc10$@com>
Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 15:12:37 -0500
Thread-Index: AQGlVfZ1PS/dCNbj7p115aYJFV3hb5v5SoVQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pulling camshaft in situ ...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Don't you have to remove the dist. and the shaft that runs the dist. and oil
pump?
Herb Miller

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve
Gerow
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 1:43 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pulling camshaft in situ ...

Don't forget to disconnect the longitudinal throttle rod.

 

Undo front motor mounts. You might want to replace a bolt on each side with
a long bolt so the engine has an alignment guide.

 

Remove grille, radiator and fan

 

If you have the dampener with the bolted pulley, you can substitute two long
bolts and use this setup, with a big socket and breaker bar, to undo the big
nut:

http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/93312770

 

Beyond removal of front pulley, have no further experience-based comment as
I haven't removed a camshaft - there'll be issues with removing the timing
gears and chain and removing the distributor drive and getting it all
aligned properly on reinstall.

 

--

 

Steve Gerow

Altadena, CA, USA

BN6
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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From: "SKIP SAUNDERS" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "'mike brooks'" <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>, "'Robert Duquette'"
 <robert.duquette@me.com>
References: <1405025510.96482.YahooMailAndroidMobile@web171802.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
 <8b37850c-3cf9-4155-bedd-5ca47ff5c83f@me.com>
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Content-Language: en-us
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to
 be?/Scotland - Italy - Scotland final trip report.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I've  fuel smell for a few days after over filling the tank (i.e. filling
the gas right up to the filler cap).  If the gas is allowed to run up the
filler pipe, it can (sometimes) leak by the union gasket that connects the
tank to the filler tube.   Perhaps that was the issue?  (Who filled the tank
in Italy? Was it you or an attendant?   Sometimes a gas attendant can be
overzealous with selling as much gas as possible ... )



-----Original Message-----
From: n [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mike brooks
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 3:23 PM
To: Robert Duquette
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to
be?/Scotland - Italy - Scotland final trip report.

Robert,

We just arrived home in Scotland last night. Since I do all the driving and
had just done 10 hours I decided to leave a reply until this evening. I am
copying this to The List - hope you don't mind.


The short
answer is I'm not sure. The 100 had been running fine down through England
and France. We had been over the Grand St Bernard Pass at over 2000metres
high with no problem. it was shortly after we filled up with petrol for the
first time in Italy that we noticed the smell. The car still seemed to be
running fine. The smell lasted the whole five days we were in Italy, mostly
at high altitude. The car, whilst still seeming to run OK was only doing 17
mpg rather than the usual 25 - 27. However, most of the trips were short
ones, and all of them were up and down serious inclines. After we left
Italy, over the Petit St Bernard Pass into France, the smell continued
intermittently. But after two more fuel fill-ups in France, we noticed the
smell had disappeared (well, reverted to the usual "Healey Smell" we are
used to!!). After that, the 100 continued to run well, and returned over 27
mpg up through France to the ferry at Calais. Once back in England,  we
continued north and after two fuel fills I was convinced the Healey was
pulling better than ever. And calculations showed even better mpg figures of
28 and 29 over two fills. I don't have a clear conclusion. However, I have
the following thoughts:-

 - did we have a bad batch of fuel in Italy?
 - did
running at high altitude make the engine run so rich that we were smelling
unburnt fuel?

 - what about ethanol? UK is less than 5%, France is 10%, don't know about
Italy.
cribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7@mindspring.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 22:10:53 +0100
From: mike brooks <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>
To: SKIP SAUNDERS <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>, 'Robert Duquette'
 <robert.duquette@me.com>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to
 be?/Scotland - Italy - Scotland final trip report.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Yes that's possible. It was an attended petrol station and I had to stop him
just waiting for the auto-shut-off but think I stopped him in time. I don't
think we will ever know for sure what the cause was.

Thanks

 
Reply
to: mike.brooks@alumni.warwick.ac.uk 


________________________________
From: SKIP SAUNDERS <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: 'mike brooks'
<hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>; 'Robert Duquette' <robert.duquette@me.com> 
Cc:
'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, 17 July 2014, 21:27
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to
be?/Scotland - Italy - Scotland final trip report.
 

I've  fuel smell for a
few days after over filling the tank (i.e. filling
the gas right up to the
filler cap).  If the gas is allowed to run up the
filler pipe, it can
(sometimes) leak by the union gasket that connects the
tank to the filler
tube.   Perhaps that was the issue?  (Who filled the tank
in Italy? Was it you
or an attendant?   Sometimes a gas attendant can be
overzealous with selling
as much gas as possible ... )






-----Original Message-----
From: n
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mike brooks
Sent:
Thursday, July 17, 2014 3:23 PM
To: Robert Duquette
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to
be?/Scotland - Italy -
Scotland final trip report.

Robert,

We just arrived home in Scotland last
night. Since I do all the driving and
had just done 10 hours I decided to
leave a reply until this evening. I am
copying this to The List - hope you
don't mind.


The short
answer is I'm not sure. The 100 had been running fine
down through England
and France. We had been over the Grand St Bernard Pass at
over 2000metres
high with no problem. it was shortly after we filled up with
petrol for the
first time in Italy that we noticed the smell. The car still
seemed to be
running fine. The smell lasted the whole five days we were in
Italy, mostly
at high altitude. The car, whilst still seeming to run OK was
only doing 17
mpg rather than the usual 25 - 27. However, most of the trips
were short
ones, and all of them were up and down serious inclines. After we
left
Italy, over the Petit St Bernard Pass into France, the smell continued
intermittently. But after two more fuel fill-ups in France, we noticed the
smell had disappeared (well, reverted to the usual "Healey Smell" we are
used
to!!). After that, the 100 continued to run well, and returned over 27
mpg up
through France to the ferry at Calais. Once back in England,  we
continued
north and after two fuel fills I was convinced the Healey was
pulling better
than ever. And calculations showed even better mpg figures of
28 and 29 over
two fills. I don't have a clear conclusion. However, I have
the following
thoughts:-

- did we have a bad batch of fuel in Italy?
- did
running at high
altitude make the engine run so rich that we were smelling
unburnt fuel?

-
what about ethanol? UK is less than 5%, France is 10%, don't know about
Italy.
cribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7@mindspring.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
CC: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 01:02:03 +0000
References: <1405025510.96482.YahooMailAndroidMobile@web171802.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>,
 <8b37850c-3cf9-4155-bedd-5ca47ff5c83f@me.com>,
 <1405624992.94036.YahooMailNeo@web171801.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>,
 <001c01cfa1fd$81c8c4d0$855a4e70$@mindspring.com>
 FILETIME=[E36E1070:01CFA223]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to
 be?/Scotland - Italy - Scotland final trip report.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

That is how I would vote too. Remember the 100 fuel cap vents to the boot. If
the tank was full And you were climbing a steep grade there would likely be
some fuel expelled through the vent hole. I live in the Rocky MountIns and my
luggage always smells of fuel.

2,000 meters? Around here that's an anthill.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

> From: tfsbj7@mindspring.com
> To: hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk; robert.duquette@me.com
> Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2014 16:27:18 -0400
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to
be?/Scotland - Italy - Scotland final trip report.
>
> I've  fuel smell for a few days after over filling the tank (i.e. filling
> the gas right up to the filler cap).  If the gas is allowed to run up the
> filler pipe, it can (sometimes) leak by the union gasket that connects the
> tank to the filler tube.   Perhaps that was the issue?  (Who filled the
tank
> in Italy? Was it you or an attendant?   Sometimes a gas attendant can be
> overzealous with selling as much gas as possible ... )
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: n [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mike brooks
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 3:23 PM
> To: Robert Duquette
> Cc: Healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to
> be?/Scotland - Italy - Scotland final trip report.
>
> Robert,
>
> We just arrived home in Scotland last night. Since I do all the driving and
> had just done 10 hours I decided to leave a reply until this evening. I am
> copying this to The List - hope you don't mind.
>
>
> The short
> answer is I'm not sure. The 100 had been running fine down through England
> and France. We had been over the Grand St Bernard Pass at over 2000metres
> high with no problem. it was shortly after we filled up with petrol for the
> first time in Italy that we noticed the smell. The car still seemed to be
> running fine. The smell lasted the whole five days we were in Italy, mostly
> at high altitude. The car, whilst still seeming to run OK was only doing 17
> mpg rather than the usual 25 - 27. However, most of the trips were short
> ones, and all of them were up and down serious inclines. After we left
> Italy, over the Petit St Bernard Pass into France, the smell continued
> intermittently. But after two more fuel fill-ups in France, we noticed the
> smell had disappeared (well, reverted to the usual "Healey Smell" we are
> used to!!). After that, the 100 continued to run well, and returned over 27
> mpg up through France to the ferry at Calais. Once back in England,  we
> continued north and after two fuel fills I was convinced the Healey was
> pulling better than ever. And calculations showed even better mpg figures
of
> 28 and 29 over two fills. I don't have a clear conclusion. However, I have
> the following thoughts:-
>
>  - did we have a bad batch of fuel in Italy?
>  - did
> running at high altitude make the engine run so rich that we were smelling
> unburnt fuel?
>
>  - what about ethanol? UK is less than 5%, France is 10%, don't know about
> Italy.
> cribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tfsbj7@mindspring.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 01:28:13 -0700
From: Andy Thorp <bce257@yahoo.co.nz>
To: jim lesher <lesherj@outlook.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 hardtop identification code
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi Jim,

I'm led to believe it is the 380th top made on 11/1957

Mine was bought by the first owner three years later and is stamped 08602078

Andy.

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 18/7/14, jim lesher <lesherj@outlook.com> wrote:

 Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 hardtop identification code
 To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
 Received: Friday, 18 July, 2014, 7:28 AM

 Where can I find the details that
 will tell me what the code means on the
 factory hardtop for my Longbridge

 the code stamped on the upper passenger's side aluminum trim
 is 01157380
  if you want to see a photo of the code, just send me a
 note
 thank you for any information you can share

 jim lesher
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

 Healeys@autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

 Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bce257@yahoo.co.nz

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of hardtop number.JPG]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 07:57:55 -0700
Cc: healeys List <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <TkWX1o01b0NyJgq01kWZcP>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 hardtop identification code
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Yes, and there should be another number on there that says which top it is.



On Jul 18, 2014, at 1:28 AM, Andy Thorp wrote:

> Hi Jim,
>
> I'm led to believe it is the 380th top made on 11/1957
>
> Mine was bought by the first owner three years later and is stamped
08602078
>
> Andy.
>
> --------------------------------------------
> On Fri, 18/7/14, jim lesher <lesherj@outlook.com> wrote:
>
> Subject: [Healeys] Longbridge BN4 hardtop identification code
> To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Received: Friday, 18 July, 2014, 7:28 AM
>
> Where can I find the details that
> will tell me what the code means on the
> factory hardtop for my Longbridge
>
> the code stamped on the upper passenger's side aluminum trim
> is 01157380
>  if you want to see a photo of the code, just send me a
> note
> thank you for any information you can share
>
> jim lesher
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bce257@yahoo.co.nz
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
hardtop number.JPG]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 09:01:29 +0100
From: "hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk" <hypercubic@yahoo.co.uk>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Re: Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to
 be?/Scotland - Italy - Scotland final trip report.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO


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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 15:44:49 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1405025510.96482.YahooMailAndroidMobile@web171802.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
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Thread-Topic: Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to be?/Scotland -
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel smell in 100 - what did it turn out to
 be?/Scotland - Italy - Scotland final trip report.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

If the smell persists or comes back, it's probably pinhole leak(s) in the tank, esp. if it's an original or very old tank. It doesn't take much petrol to stink up the joint, and there may not be any other evidence (e.g. puddles of gas). 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----



Yes that's possible. It was an attended petrol station and I had to stop him 
just waiting for the auto-shut-off but think I stopped him in time. I don't 
think we will ever know for sure what the cause was. 

Thanks 


Reply 
to: mike.brooks@alumni.warwick.ac.uk 
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 09:21:40 -0700
 FILETIME=[5B9D3780:01CFA2A4]
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 pulley key
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Status: RO

Would anyone know the dimensions of the key that fits between the pulley and
crank shaft? Is there anything special about it or an it be fabracated from
scap metal? Would this be something attainable from NAPA or other auto supply
stores?
Thanks very much.
Rich Kahn
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 12:22:18 -0500
From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 pulley key
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Status: RO

<<  On 7/18/2014 11:21 AM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> Would this be something attainable from NAPA or other auto supply  >>

Yep.  Any "real" APS will have a selection and several types, Rich.

Screw up the old one getting it out <G> ? ? ?  SOP   LOL

Ed
" Just Brits "
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 19:00:17 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] It's alive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

After half an hour dealing with a recalcitrant original fuel pump I managed
to coax the engine in BN1 #174 into life today.
This engine has been idle for at least 45 years and probably more and
although I had to disassemble it to replace all the gaskets and seals it
started easily and ran quietly with 58 p.s.i oil pressure, 13.85 volts from
the generator and best of all NO LEAKS.
At this rate I'll have it on the road this fall..Can't wait.

Michael S
BN1 #174
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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LLwstqy0-ciewquhgDWx=7qm+WndyD57uEuBnGL7uRVig@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 16:08:51 -0700
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] It's alive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Yea! Isn't that great!!

John Spaur
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 16:15:09 -0700
From: Alan Grossman <agrossman@pacific.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] It's alive
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Status: RO

Awesome, congratulations!
Alan
On 7/18/2014 4:00 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> After half an hour dealing with a recalcitrant original fuel pump I managed
> to coax the engine in BN1 #174 into life today.
> This engine has been idle for at least 45 years and probably more and
> although I had to disassemble it to replace all the gaskets and seals it
> started easily and ran quietly with 58 p.s.i oil pressure, 13.85 volts from
> the generator and best of all NO LEAKS.
> At this rate I'll have it on the road this fall..Can't wait.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] It's alive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Wonderful!!!  Congrats!  Off-line pictures?  :-)

Randy

On Jul 18, 2014, at 7:00 PM, Michael Salter wrote:

> After half an hour dealing with a recalcitrant original fuel pump I managed
> to coax the engine in BN1 #174 into life today.
> This engine has been idle for at least 45 years and probably more and
> although I had to disassemble it to replace all the gaskets and seals it
> started easily and ran quietly with 58 p.s.i oil pressure, 13.85 volts from
> the generator and best of all NO LEAKS.
> At this rate I'll have it on the road this fall..Can't wait.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@gmail.com
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LLwstqy0-ciewquhgDWx=7qm+WndyD57uEuBnGL7uRVig@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 09:43:36 +1000
Thread-Index: AQHwu41J5HOV4MIjoJqZbqoNrcYCXptkTKCQ
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] It's alive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

G'day Mike

That is just wonderful. Makes me want to forget about the household tasks
for a week or two and get the head on the BN3.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Salter
Sent: Saturday, 19 July 2014 9:00 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] It's alive

After half an hour dealing with a recalcitrant original fuel pump I managed
to coax the engine in BN1 #174 into life today.
This engine has been idle for at least 45 years and probably more and
although I had to disassemble it to replace all the gaskets and seals it
started easily and ran quietly with 58 p.s.i oil pressure, 13.85 volts from
the generator and best of all NO LEAKS.
At this rate I'll have it on the road this fall..Can't wait.

Michael S
BN1 #174
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
_______________________________________________
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From: "Peter Svilans" <peter.svilans@rogers.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 20:05:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Its alive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Fabulous, Mike.  You're an inspiration to us all.  Easy downhill run from
here.

Peter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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References: <CAB3i7LLwstqy0-ciewquhgDWx=7qm+WndyD57uEuBnGL7uRVig@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 17:07:04 -0700
From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] It's alive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Fantastic! Brought a knowing smile to my face. I'm so happy for you.
Mazol tov

I Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
sent from smartphone, so what you read, may not be what I meant to send.
On Jul 18, 2014 4:00 PM, "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

> After half an hour dealing with a recalcitrant original fuel pump I managed
> to coax the engine in BN1 #174 into life today.
> This engine has been idle for at least 45 years and probably more and
> although I had to disassemble it to replace all the gaskets and seals it
> started easily and ran quietly with 58 p.s.i oil pressure, 13.85 volts from
> the generator and best of all NO LEAKS.
> At this rate I'll have it on the road this fall..Can't wait.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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References: <CAB3i7LLwstqy0-ciewquhgDWx=7qm+WndyD57uEuBnGL7uRVig@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 20:19:57 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] It's alive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Bone idle for 45 years?  Should probably name it Onslow.  (For "Keeping up
Appearances" fans)  Congrats,
Rick


On Fri, Jul 18, 2014 at 7:00 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
wrote:

> After half an hour dealing with a recalcitrant original fuel pump I managed
> to coax the engine in BN1 #174 into life today.
> This engine has been idle for at least 45 years and probably more and
> although I had to disassemble it to replace all the gaskets and seals it
> started easily and ran quietly with 58 p.s.i oil pressure, 13.85 volts from
> the generator and best of all NO LEAKS.
> At this rate I'll have it on the road this fall..Can't wait.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 00:39:09 +0000
References: <CAB3i7LLwstqy0-ciewquhgDWx=7qm+WndyD57uEuBnGL7uRVig@mail.gmail.com>
 FILETIME=[DAE564A0:01CFA2E9]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] It's alive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

NO LEAKS, perhaps there is no oil in it. LOL! Good news indeed Michael, good
progress.



Jean


> Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 19:00:17 -0400
> From: michaelsalter@gmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] It's alive
>
> After half an hour dealing with a recalcitrant original fuel pump I managed
> to coax the engine in BN1 #174 into life today.
> This engine has been idle for at least 45 years and probably more and
> although I had to disassemble it to replace all the gaskets and seals it
> started easily and ran quietly with 58 p.s.i oil pressure, 13.85 volts from
> the generator and best of all NO LEAKS.
> At this rate I'll have it on the road this fall..Can't wait.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 19:01:06 -0600
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux x86_64; rv:29.0) Gecko/20100101
 Firefox/29.0 SeaMonkey/2.26.1
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LLwstqy0-ciewquhgDWx=7qm+WndyD57uEuBnGL7uRVig@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] It's alive
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Status: RO

Sweet.

Every once in a while the Team.Net lists prove useful.

mjb.
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 11:48:15 +1000
From: J Armour <sebring3000@bigpond.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: [Healeys] It's alive
References: <CAB3i7LLwstqy0-ciewquhgDWx=7qm+WndyD57uEuBnGL7uRVig@mail.gmail.com>
 FILETIME=[85527500:01CFA2F3]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] It's alive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Mike

Surely not such success with a mere Lucas distributor fitted with points
and so many volts from a Lucas standard generator!!!!!!!!



On 19/07/14 9:00 AM, "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

>After half an hour dealing with a recalcitrant original fuel pump I
>managed
>to coax the engine in BN1 #174 into life today.
>This engine has been idle for at least 45 years and probably more and
>although I had to disassemble it to replace all the gaskets and seals it
>started easily and ran quietly with 58 p.s.i oil pressure, 13.85 volts
>from
>the generator and best of all NO LEAKS.
>At this rate I'll have it on the road this fall..Can't wait.
>
>BN1 #174
>___________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 00:07:19 -0400 (EDT)
To: michaelsalter@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] It's alive
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Status: RO

Congratulations! Very good news indeed!
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
 
 
In a message dated 7/18/2014 4:01:16 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
michaelsalter@gmail.com writes:

After  half an hour dealing with a recalcitrant original fuel pump I managed
to  coax the engine in BN1 #174 into life today.
This engine has been idle for  at least 45 years and probably more and
although I had to disassemble it to  replace all the gaskets and seals it
started easily and ran quietly with 58  p.s.i oil pressure, 13.85 volts from
the generator and best of all NO  LEAKS.
At this rate I'll have it on the road this fall..Can't  wait.

Michael S
BN1  #174
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2014 21:37:59 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting ...
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... sort of:

http://www.sfgate.com/cars/myride/article/Healey-is-now-treasured-heirloom-5629337.php

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53C9F627.60903@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Sighting ...
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Status: RO

Hmmm ... just noticed the contemporary style plates on a car that should have yellow-on-black plates. Wonder what the 
story is?


On 7/18/2014 9:37 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> ... sort of:
>
> http://www.sfgate.com/cars/myride/article/Healey-is-now-treasured-heirloom-5629337.php
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: Dennis Gavin <djg@gavinassociates.com>
To: "michaelsalter@gmail.com" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,
 "'healeys@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Healeys It's alaive
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Michael,

Never a feeling so sweet. A real accomplishment and certainly worthy of a
sincere congrats. Pics?

djg

Dennis Gavin
Gavin Associates Inc
Office: (508)-381-1090
63 BJ7
63 E Type
48 Willys Jeepster
_______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 09:27:04 -0400
From: JOHN BAHE SR <johnbahesr@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] vinyl piping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Anyone have an easy way or  best method to install the piping on the
aluminum door finisher that attaches to the shut pillar?   Do you have to
remove the trim or can you install with the trim attached but loose?  Any
suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
John A Bahe Sr.
johnbahesr@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 06:33:20 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: JOHN BAHE SR <johnbahesr@gmail.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CACCi48S4=Nc1ZHLkBZ+1Y=Kc2A1zHu-o4SHc41udZEnsVWA=Gw@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] vinyl piping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Been a while since I did this, but think you can just loosen all the Al door finisher screws, remove one screw at a 
time, work the piping--flat part--into the gap, punch a hole, replace that screw and move to the next.

Bob


On 7/19/2014 6:27 AM, JOHN BAHE SR wrote:
> Anyone have an easy way or  best method to install the piping on the
> aluminum door finisher that attaches to the shut pillar?   Do you have to
> remove the trim or can you install with the trim attached but loose?  Any
> suggestions are appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> John A Bahe Sr.
> johnbahesr@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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To: JOHN BAHE SR <johnbahesr@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 09:38:03 -0400
References: <CACCi48S4=Nc1ZHLkBZ+1Y=Kc2A1zHu-o4SHc41udZEnsVWA=Gw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] vinyl piping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Hi John,
I believe that originally the piping was glued to the aluminium with contact
cement.
I recently installed mine that way and found that it was quite east to get the
piping correctly positioned.

Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "JOHN BAHE SR" <johnbahesr@gmail.com>
Sent: b7/b19/b2014 9:27 AM
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] vinyl piping

Anyone have an easy way or  best method to install the piping on the
aluminum door finisher that attaches to the shut pillar?   Do you have to
remove the trim or can you install with the trim attached but loose?  Any
suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
John A Bahe Sr.
johnbahesr@gmail.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Removing cam in situ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry.  As I suspected, it's a major task.

I asked because when I was recently adjusting the valves I noticed a couple of the pushrods didn't appear to be lifting 
as much as the others, probably indicating flattened cam lobes.   I don't know what could have caused this, because I 
have always fed good, clean 20W-50 oil to this engine (it has about 100K since rebuild).  It's possible it's been this 
way since rebuild, as I always had lower compression on a couple cylinders (why a reputable cam grinder would screw up a 
re-grind is unknowable, but possible I suppose).

I just had the front pulley and timing cover off to replace the cover seal, and had the radiator in and out 3 times due 
to water pump issues, so when I get to the cam I'm likely to pull the engine and do an overhaul.   The big nut on the 
crank is the issue; I bought a 3/4" impact wrench and socket to get it off, but there's insufficient room to get the 
wrench on the nut due to the front X brace.  I ended up ruining the nut and a new one was $40 from Moss. The new nut was 
good quality, but the original had a conical section machined away to clear the Woodruff key, and the new one did not 
but seems to be OK.

Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:45 2018
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: warthodson@aol.com
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Subject: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I am preparing to have my early BN1, which is complete, but disassembled,
shipped from Canada to the USA. I plan to apply for a "non-highway" title in
the state of Kansas when it arrives. I have the plastic ID (VIN) plate which I
understands goes somewhere inside the passenger compartment. Is there a clear
photo documentation available showing the location of this plate? Also, I do
not recall reading about this particular plate in any of the Healey books, but
I could have easily forgotten about that reference. If there is such a
reference I would appreciate knowing where to look.
Thanks,
Gary H
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:46 2018
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: <warthodson@aol.com>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 10:33:29 -0400
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

According to the Anderson Moment book, it was located on the outboard panel
of the left hand side foot box.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
warthodson@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 10:09 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location

I am preparing to have my early BN1, which is complete, but disassembled,
shipped from Canada to the USA. I plan to apply for a "non-highway" title in
the state of Kansas when it arrives. I have the plastic ID (VIN) plate which
I understands goes somewhere inside the passenger compartment. Is there a
clear photo documentation available showing the location of this plate?
Also, I do not recall reading about this particular plate in any of the
Healey books, but I could have easily forgotten about that reference. If
there is such a reference I would appreciate knowing where to look.
Thanks,
Gary H
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:46 2018
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To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, healeylist
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 10:51:48 -0400
References: <53CA7629.6090209@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Removing cam in situ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

What you are describing Bob is exactly what I encountered with AHX12.
I believe that it was attributable to the dreaded ZDDP problem.
I would suggest that you drain the oil and check for metal content.
In 12 the flakes of cam lobe and lifter were all through the engine. The first
indication of trouble was very low oil pressure caused by the relief valve
being jammed by the metal flakes.
I rebuilt the engine completely and thereafter used Valvoline VR1 non
synthetic oil, just put 10 bottles in #174, and the problem never reoccurred.
Michael S
BN1 #174

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
Sent: b7/b19/b2014 9:44 AM
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Removing cam in situ

Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry.  As I suspected, it's a major
task.

I asked because when I was recently adjusting the valves I noticed a couple of
the pushrods didn't appear to be lifting
as much as the others, probably indicating flattened cam lobes.   I don't know
what could have caused this, because I
have always fed good, clean 20W-50 oil to this engine (it has about 100K since
rebuild).  It's possible it's been this
way since rebuild, as I always had lower compression on a couple cylinders
(why a reputable cam grinder would screw up a
re-grind is unknowable, but possible I suppose).

I just had the front pulley and timing cover off to replace the cover seal,
and had the radiator in and out 3 times due
to water pump issues, so when I get to the cam I'm likely to pull the engine
and do an overhaul.   The big nut on the
crank is the issue; I bought a 3/4" impact wrench and socket to get it off,
but there's insufficient room to get the
wrench on the nut due to the front X brace.  I ended up ruining the nut and a
new one was $40 from Moss. The new nut was
good quality, but the original had a conical section machined away to clear
the Woodruff key, and the new one did not
but seems to be OK.

Bob

--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:46 2018
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 17:12:58 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <53CA7629.6090209@comcast.net>
 <53ca860a.0675320a.417d.fffff7c2@mx.google.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Removing cam in situ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Cam wear on BMC and some other cars is nothing new. Just a bad hardening 
process and/or crappy material together with a total lack of quality 
control, nothing to do in general with ZDDP. Regrinding without some 
form of hardening does not help either. Loose tappets worsens the 
problem even more. It happened as well long before ZDDP was even the 
beginning of an issue.
A notorious engine for cam wear is the Rover/Buick V8. It can happen 
within 40.000mls.
Replace with a new camshaft (e.g. Kent) and do not forget to check the 
bearings and do fit all new cam followers. If the old ones are used the 
cam shaft will be scrap in no time. Fit with plenty of graphite grease 
or similar to give it initial lubrication.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Michael schreef op 19-7-2014 16:51:
> What you are describing Bob is exactly what I encountered with AHX12.
> I believe that it was attributable to the dreaded ZDDP problem.
> I would suggest that you drain the oil and check for metal content.
> In 12 the flakes of cam lobe and lifter were all through the engine. The first
> indication of trouble was very low oil pressure caused by the relief valve
> being jammed by the metal flakes.
> I rebuilt the engine completely and thereafter used Valvoline VR1 non
> synthetic oil, just put 10 bottles in #174, and the problem never reoccurred.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
> Sent: b7/b19/b2014 9:44 AM
> To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Removing cam in situ
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry.  As I suspected, it's a major
> task.
>
> I asked because when I was recently adjusting the valves I noticed a couple of
> the pushrods didn't appear to be lifting
> as much as the others, probably indicating flattened cam lobes.   I don't know
> what could have caused this, because I
> have always fed good, clean 20W-50 oil to this engine (it has about 100K since
> rebuild).  It's possible it's been this
> way since rebuild, as I always had lower compression on a couple cylinders
> (why a reputable cam grinder would screw up a
> re-grind is unknowable, but possible I suppose).
>
> I just had the front pulley and timing cover off to replace the cover seal,
> and had the radiator in and out 3 times due
> to water pump issues, so when I get to the cam I'm likely to pull the engine
> and do an overhaul.   The big nut on the
> crank is the issue; I bought a 3/4" impact wrench and socket to get it off,
> but there's insufficient room to get the
> wrench on the nut due to the front X brace.  I ended up ruining the nut and a
> new one was $40 from Moss. The new nut was
> good quality, but the original had a conical section machined away to clear
> the Woodruff key, and the new one did not
> but seems to be OK.
>
> Bob
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
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>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4716 / Virusdatabase: 3986/7880 - datum van uitgifte: 07/19/14
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To: Michael <michael.salter@gmail.com>,  healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53CA7629.6090209@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Removing cam in situ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Michael, et al,

That was my first thought.  I have used Chevron 20W-50 almost from the start--IIRC, I used Castrol and other brands for 
a while but the Chevron was available at Costco until a couple years ago--and I believe the Chevron had pre-converter 
levels of ZDDP, as some (most?) 20W-50s still do.  We used a high-quality assembly lube when we rebuilt the engine.  I 
would expect the lack of ZDDP to affect all the lobes, but it only appears that 2--#2 and #11--were 'lazy.'  Also, my OP 
is normal for a BJ8, I've never seen any metal in the drained oil and I've cut the filters open and inspected the media 
a couple times and there was no significant metal detritus (just did a change and will be opening up the filter today).

I just got a case of VR1--it runs $7/qt, give or take!--and will be using that from now on.

Bob


On 7/19/2014 7:51 AM, Michael wrote:
> What you are describing Bob is exactly what I encountered with AHX12.
> I believe that it was attributable to the dreaded ZDDP problem.
> I would suggest that you drain the oil and check for metal content.
> In 12 the flakes of cam lobe and lifter were all through the engine. The first indication of trouble was very low oil 
> pressure caused by the relief valve being jammed by the metal flakes.
> I rebuilt the engine completely and thereafter used Valvoline VR1 non synthetic oil, just put 10 bottles in #174, and 
> the problem never reoccurred.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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References: <53CA7629.6090209@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 11:27:52 -0400
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik@gmail.com>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Removing cam in situ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Wouldn't worn cam lobes on a 100K motor be normal wear and tear?  From
everything I remember about 50s and 60s cars, they were pretty much done by
that kind of mileage. And, as Kees pointed out, reground cams are not
usually hardened to the same specification as a factory cam.


On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 9:44 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

>
>   I don't know what could have caused this, because I have always fed
> good, clean 20W-50 oil to this engine (it has about 100K since rebuild).
>  It's possible it's been this way since rebuild, as I always had lower
> compression on a couple cylinders (why a reputable cam grinder would screw
> up a re-grind is unknowable, but possible I suppose).
>
>
>
> Bob
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 17:45:39 +0200
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <53CA7629.6090209@comcast.net>
 <CAGfzsZfVjudqXW0RSoNd07oex8n2GW+xRESZ7odWVseFJYcM2g@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Removing cam in situ
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Status: RO

Indeed. In Europe 60.000 miles was pretty much very good for a car 
engine, many started to have issues long before that. VW Beetle was 
praised because it would easily get to  60.000 miles or more.
However these days the amount of miles that can be clocked up should be 
better because of much improved oil, filters etc.
Many modern car engines, especially Japanese, can easily do 
300.000-400.000 miles or more without any problems.
Kees Oudesluijs


HealeyRick schreef op 19-7-2014 17:27:
> Wouldn't worn cam lobes on a 100K motor be normal wear and tear?  From
> everything I remember about 50s and 60s cars, they were pretty much done by
> that kind of mileage. And, as Kees pointed out, reground cams are not
> usually hardened to the same specification as a factory cam.
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 9:44 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>    I don't know what could have caused this, because I have always fed
>> good, clean 20W-50 oil to this engine (it has about 100K since rebuild).
>>   It's possible it's been this way since rebuild, as I always had lower
>> compression on a couple cylinders (why a reputable cam grinder would screw
>> up a re-grind is unknowable, but possible I suppose).
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob
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> -----
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 08:59:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
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Subject: [Healeys] reproduction hand brake stuff bitches
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Status: RO

1-I put a new hand brake cable on the BJ8 this week. The minor drama there is that the captive nut is 11/16 across the wrench flats. The original is 9/16 (thin). One can't swing the big 11/16 wrench in the tunnel without hitting the drive shaft. My tool box was empty with distributor wrenches, crows feet, multiple extensions, metric wrenches, you name it. I was not going to take the drive shaft off. Its done, but I don't know how I did it.

2-The hand brake plate is held with two large Phillips head countersunk screws. These screws have a special reduced head height so the brake handle doesn't interfere with the heads. The nameless Healey suppliers list the screws in the catalogs, but they are nothing more than standard stuff you can get in the hardware store. These screws must have the heads ground down. When the heads are ground down there is nothing left of the Phillips cross for the screw driver to grab onto. The screws are too soft and round out. Black oxide screws with Allen hex's are much better. The heads seem to be shorter and don't require as much grinding. After the grinding there is still enough hex to enable tightening the screw.
I wonder why the cable broke in the first place, probably when I had a ham fisted guy weld the bracket back to the frame, he heated up the strands?? The crimping was still in place.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 12:00:27 -0400
From: "michael.oritt" <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
To: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
 <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 pulley key
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Ed--

You are always there with helpful advice.

Best--Michael Oritt


Sent via the Samsung GALAXY SB.4 Activeb", an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

<div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Ed Kaler <shop@justbrits.com> </div><div>Date:07/18/2014  1:22 PM  (GMT-05:00) </div><div>To: healeys@autox.team.net </div><div>Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 pulley key </div><div>
</div><<  On 7/18/2014 11:21 AM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> Would this be something attainable from NAPA or other auto supply  >>

Yep.  Any "real" APS will have a selection and several types, Rich.

Screw up the old one getting it out <G> ? ? ?  SOP   LOL

Ed
" Just Brits "
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Subject: Re: [Healeys] vinyl piping
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Status: RO

John, I never was able to get the piping to stay in place without removing
the aluminum finisher and gluing the piping to the finisher with contact
cement.  
Cut "darts" (V-shaped cuts) in the flat part of the piping so it forms into
a curve easier.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of JOHN BAHE
SR
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 9:27 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] vinyl piping

Anyone have an easy way or  best method to install the piping on the
aluminum door finisher that attaches to the shut pillar?   Do you have to
remove the trim or can you install with the trim attached but loose?  Any
suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
John A Bahe Sr.
johnbahesr@gmail.com
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From: Randy Hicks <healey100m@gmail.com>
References: <8D17172202BCC9A-2004-6AA2@webmail-m232.sysops.aol.com>
 <002401cfa35e$68d422a0$3a7c67e0$@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 12:54:12 -0400
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Gary, on the road today but should be able to send good photo of placement
tonight.

Randy

> On Jul 19, 2014, at 10:33 AM, "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> According to the Anderson Moment book, it was located on the outboard panel
> of the left hand side foot box.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> warthodson@aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 10:09 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location
>
> I am preparing to have my early BN1, which is complete, but disassembled,
> shipped from Canada to the USA. I plan to apply for a "non-highway" title
in
> the state of Kansas when it arrives. I have the plastic ID (VIN) plate
which
> I understands goes somewhere inside the passenger compartment. Is there a
> clear photo documentation available showing the location of this plate?
> Also, I do not recall reading about this particular plate in any of the
> Healey books, but I could have easily forgotten about that reference. If
> there is such a reference I would appreciate knowing where to look.
> Thanks,
> Gary H
> _______________________________________________
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From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1522401949.1360.1405785570253.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 12:57:12 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+jan5twYE95zaJSHiCvl+Aa2W6eAABYNcg
Content-Language: en-us
 a=lReFixcaowqd3lUkmOsbOw==:117 a=lReFixcaowqd3lUkmOsbOw==:17
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] reproduction hand brake stuff bitches
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Ken, this past March I replaced both of the countersunk Phillips head
handbrake screws.  I did have some interference at first between the screw
heads and the handbrake plate, but was able to remove that with slight
grinding that didn't significantly remove the Phillips cross.  Of course,
grinding will remove any protective finish from the fastener and allow
surface rust unless treated.  I bought my screws from British Car
Specialists.
It does seem that many of the replacement parts now available are in some
ways different from the originals, and require "adjustments".  Better than
not available at all, though, I think.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
goldengt@cal.net
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 12:00 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] reproduction hand brake stuff bitches

1-I put a new hand brake cable on the BJ8 this week. The minor drama there
is that the captive nut is 11/16 across the wrench flats. The original is
9/16 (thin). One can't swing the big 11/16 wrench in the tunnel without
hitting the drive shaft. My tool box was empty with distributor wrenches,
crows feet, multiple extensions, metric wrenches, you name it. I was not
going to take the drive shaft off. Its done, but I don't know how I did it.

2-The hand brake plate is held with two large Phillips head countersunk
screws. These screws have a special reduced head height so the brake handle
doesn't interfere with the heads. The nameless Healey suppliers list the
screws in the catalogs, but they are nothing more than standard stuff you
can get in the hardware store. These screws must have the heads ground down.
When the heads are ground down there is nothing left of the Phillips cross
for the screw driver to grab onto. The screws are too soft and round out.
Black oxide screws with Allen hex's are much better. The heads seem to be
shorter and don't require as much grinding. After the grinding there is
still enough hex to enable tightening the screw.
I wonder why the cable broke in the first place, probably when I had a ham
fisted guy weld the bracket back to the frame, he heated up the strands??
The crimping was still in place.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:46 2018
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From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'healeylist'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <53C9F627.60903@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 13:03:31 -0400
Thread-Index: Ac+jC0l+uE40HyzuTWqyPgR4kpKLNQAZ9Mbw
Content-Language: en-us
 a=lReFixcaowqd3lUkmOsbOw==:117 a=lReFixcaowqd3lUkmOsbOw==:17
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Sighting ...
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

(Sigh...)  Another original BJ8 owner who has managed to stay out of the
Registry, which now includes records and data for 8,456 of the 17,712 cars
originally manufactured (48%).

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 12:38 AM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting ...

... sort of:

http://www.sfgate.com/cars/myride/article/Healey-is-now-treasured-heirloom-5
629337.php

--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 13:10:46 -0400
From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
 Thunderbird/24.6.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1522401949.1360.1405785570253.JavaMail.root@cal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] reproduction hand brake stuff bitches
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Always something with replacement parts. I spaced out the handle 
slightly with a washer and used the door hinge screws.  On my other car 
the original screws were slot head countersunk screws.
John
64/66

On 7/19/2014 11:59 AM, goldengt@cal.net wrote:
> 1-I put a new hand brake cable on the BJ8 this week. The minor drama there is that the captive nut is 11/16 across the wrench flats. The original is 9/16 (thin). One can't swing the big 11/16 wrench in the tunnel without hitting the drive shaft. My tool box was empty with distributor wrenches, crows feet, multiple extensions, metric wrenches, you name it. I was not going to take the drive shaft off. Its done, but I don't know how I did it.
>
> 2-The hand brake plate is held with two large Phillips head countersunk screws. These screws have a special reduced head height so the brake handle doesn't interfere with the heads. The nameless Healey suppliers list the screws in the catalogs, but they are nothing more than standard stuff you can get in the hardware store. These screws must have the heads ground down. When the heads are ground down there is nothing left of the Phillips cross for the screw driver to grab onto. The screws are too soft and round out. Black oxide screws with Allen hex's are much better. The heads seem to be shorter and don't require as much grinding. After the grinding there is still enough hex to enable tightening the screw.
> I wonder why the cable broke in the first place, probably when I had a ham fisted guy weld the bracket back to the frame, he heated up the strands?? The crimping was still in place.
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:46 2018
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To: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] reproduction hand brake stuff bitches
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Phillips head?

No. That's a problem right there. Most of the original screws on british cars
are Posidrive, not phillips.

Posidrive are quite different in a number of ways including head shapes
(flatter countersunk heads) and markings.



On Jul 19, 2014, at 10:10 AM, John Vrugtman wrote:

> Always something with replacement parts. I spaced out the handle slightly
with a washer and used the door hinge screws.  On my other car the original
screws were slot head countersunk screws.
> John
> 64/66
>
> On 7/19/2014 11:59 AM, goldengt@cal.net wrote:
>> 1-I put a new hand brake cable on the BJ8 this week. The minor drama there
is that the captive nut is 11/16 across the wrench flats. The original is 9/16
(thin). One can't swing the big 11/16 wrench in the tunnel without hitting the
drive shaft. My tool box was empty with distributor wrenches, crows feet,
multiple extensions, metric wrenches, you name it. I was not going to take the
drive shaft off. Its done, but I don't know how I did it.
>>
>> 2-The hand brake plate is held with two large Phillips head countersunk
screws. These screws have a special reduced head height so the brake handle
doesn't interfere with the heads. The nameless Healey suppliers list the
screws in the catalogs, but they are nothing more than standard stuff you can
get in the hardware store. These screws must have the heads ground down. When
the heads are ground down there is nothing left of the Phillips cross for the
screw driver to grab onto. The screws are too soft and round out. Black oxide
screws with Allen hex's are much better. The heads seem to be shorter and
don't require as much grinding. After the grinding there is still enough hex
to enable tightening the screw.
>> I wonder why the cable broke in the first place, probably when I had a ham
fisted guy weld the bracket back to the frame, he heated up the strands?? The
crimping was still in place.
>> Ken Freese
>> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 14:10:15 -0400
From: JOHN BAHE SR <johnbahesr@gmail.com>
To: BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] vinyl piping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Thanks to all for providing great advice!!  I think I can do this.

John


On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 12:28 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:

> John, I never was able to get the piping to stay in place without removing
> the aluminum finisher and gluing the piping to the finisher with contact
> cement.
> Cut "darts" (V-shaped cuts) in the flat part of the piping so it forms into
> a curve easier.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of JOHN
> BAHE
> SR
> Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 9:27 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] vinyl piping
>
> Anyone have an easy way or  best method to install the piping on the
> aluminum door finisher that attaches to the shut pillar?   Do you have to
> remove the trim or can you install with the trim attached but loose?  Any
> suggestions are appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> John A Bahe Sr.
> johnbahesr@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/johnbahesr@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
John A Bahe Sr.
Cell:  (502) 599-2696
johnbahesr@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: "john" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
To: "'JOHN BAHE SR'" <johnbahesr@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACCi48S4=Nc1ZHLkBZ+1Y=Kc2A1zHu-o4SHc41udZEnsVWA=Gw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 11:16:13 -0700
Thread-Index: AQFsc0d5HQM4N8auUxI4t9OrXJGJUJxuDzuw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] vinyl piping
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

I installed new finish plates and piping on my BT7. It is probably easiest
to remove the plates to glue the piping in place as it should be. On the BT7
you need to remove a bit of the cord to get the piping to lay flat at the
upper part of the finisher where it is screwed to the cockpit trim. It will
be too thick and the door will hit it. It is easiest to do this and to get
the piping to bend with the finisher removed. Get new screws too because
they will most likely get damaged when you remove them and while replacing
them. Buy the correct size screwdriver if you do not have one. I bought a
Wiha 261 / PHO x 75. I believe it is a #0 tip but I am not sure. BTW, I did
not like the Moss screws because the head stripped easily. I used similar SS
ones from a local fastener company. Fastener companies will have the correct
screwdriver.

John Spaur
San Jose, CA
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 18:19:28 +0000 (UTC)
From: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: "LIST, HEALEY" <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: HD8 jet needle position
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Subject: [Healeys] HD8 jet needle position
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Status: RO

Hello,
B 
1966 BJ8B  HD8 carbs
the jet needle I have has a groove in it.........................where should
it be placed in the carb piston?.........bottom or top of groove flush with
piston bottom?
B 
also what is the best way to adjust the pin that fits the forked lever ...on
the throttle shaft?
B 
B 
Mitch
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 12:48:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>,  Jensen-Cars
 <jensen-cars@british-steel.org>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
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Subject: [Healeys] tips for Daytona 500
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Anyone have any tips on going to the Daytona 500 next year?
Thanks,
Ken Freese
65 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Sep  9 06:42:46 2018
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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 13:19:02 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>, "LIST, HEALEY"
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1819146445.34188907.1405793968192.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8 jet needle position
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Bottom of the groove should be even with bottom of piston; i.e. groove is hidden.  BTW, it makes a fairly significant 
difference in mixture; I had mine wrong--top of groove at bottom of piston--and when I 'fixed' it I had to readjust the 
mixture, IIRC it took about a half-turn of the mixture screws.

re: "what is the best way to adjust the pin that fits the forked lever ...on the throttle shaft?"

Not sure I understand this question, but the linkage from the shaft on the manifold to the two throttle shafts is 
adjustable. The carbs' shafts are independent, the key is to get them to both lift the same, and that is accomplished by 
loosening the screws that clamp the the pins which are inside the two forks--maybe this is the question?--and adjust 
until the airflow is the same off-idle (best done with a carb synchronizer like UniSyn IMO).

Bob



On 7/19/2014 11:19 AM, Mitch wrote:
> Hello,
> B
> 1966 BJ8B  HD8 carbs
> the jet needle I have has a groove in it.........................where should
> it be placed in the carb piston?.........bottom or top of groove flush with
> piston bottom?
> B
> also what is the best way to adjust the pin that fits the forked lever ...on
> the throttle shaft?
> B
> B
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2014 16:48:27 -0400
From: mark henderson <markhenderson3376@gmail.com>
To: goldengt@cal.net
Cc: Jensen-Cars <jensen-cars@british-steel.org>,
 healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] tips for Daytona 500
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Status: RO

try Gene's Steak House, about 4 miles west of I-95 on Speedway Blvd.
 Probably some teams/drivers there before the race.  tx, mh


On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 3:48 PM, <goldengt@cal.net> wrote:

> Anyone have any tips on going to the Daytona 500 next year?
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/markhenderson3376@gmail.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
Status: RO

Eoin,
That is exactly what I was looking for & the provenance could not be any
better. I purchased this project car from Rich.
Thanks.
Gary H



-----Original Message-----
From: Eoin Galvin iamfromdublin@gmail.com
To: warthodson <warthodson@aol.com>
Sent: Sat, Jul 19, 2014 10:22 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 vin plate location


I think this its what you you are looking for. The car was built by Rich
Chrysler so I would have to believe the tag is in the correct location.
Eoin Galvin
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