From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 03:15:55 2013
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Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2013 05:13:22 -0500
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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To: Elton Schulz <eschulz@frontiernet.net>
References: <529ACAF9.3000109@frontiernet.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flywheel orientation
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Elton,

TDC -- top dead center. 12 o'clock.

first throw refers to the 1st rod journal of the crankshaft.  #1 
cylinder in this case.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 12/01/2013 12:36 AM, Elton Schulz wrote:
> Fellow Listers,
> I am about to reinstall the flywheel on my BJ7. The
>   instructions in the shop manual are confusing to me. It states "Place
> the flywheel --- so that the timing mark "1" is at TDC when the first
> throw of the crankshaft is at TDC."
> Could someone explain to me what that means. I found the "1" mark on the
> flywheel but am puzzled as to where the referred TDC position is. Is it
> referring to the 12 o'clock position? And what is the meaning of the
> "first throw of the crankshaft at TDC?
> Thanks for your help,
> Elton
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  1 13:22:31 2013
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Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2013 15:19:58 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marques/Chatter
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I have copies of these going back pretty far and they are just sitting in a box in the basement.  I'm toying with the idea of tossing them, but wanted to know if anyone needs any.  Contact me off-list.

tom
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 07:48:49 2013
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From: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 09:46:08 -0500
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix distributor
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Seems that the vacuum unit is not threaded to connect to the line that goes to
the carbs. I'm guessing best way is to find and adapter and thread the vacuum
"nipple" on the distributor?

Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 09:41:45 2013
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From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Simon Atkinson" <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
References: <2C4DED61-27E0-4D32-AC96-8DDFED17E08F@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 08:39:12 -0800
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Petronix distributor
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon - probably easier to slide the vacuum pipe nut away from the flare on 
the pipe and use a short piece of rubber hose slipped onto the flare and the 
push-on fitting on the dist.  My BJ8 ran that way for 20 odd years - someone 
before me had changed the threaded advance unit out for a push on unit. 
Never had any problems with anything leaking.  It was recently put back to 
original with the full restoration.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Simon Atkinson
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2013 6:46 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Petronix distributor

Seems that the vacuum unit is not threaded to connect to the line that goes 
to
the carbs. I'm guessing best way is to find and adapter and thread the 
vacuum
"nipple" on the distributor?

Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 14:59:14 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 13:56:23 -0800 (PST)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
	TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
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Subject: [Healeys] Bret Blades AC compressor bracket
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Anyone know how to get a hold of one of Mr. Blade's brackets these days. The Two Blades web site seems to be no more.
Thanks,
Ken Freese
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 15:48:44 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 16:46:10 -0600
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: goldengt@cal.net
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bret Blades AC compressor bracket
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

bretblades@gmail.com or 972 762-8148

cheers,


On Mon, Dec 2, 2013 at 3:56 PM, <goldengt@cal.net> wrote:

> Anyone know how to get a hold of one of Mr. Blade's brackets these days.
> The Two Blades web site seems to be no more.
> Thanks,
> Ken Freese
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 16:23:32 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 18:20:58 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Lucas HF1748 Horn Rims
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have been unable to find replacement rims for the HF1748 horns on my 100
however during my search I have encountered many people who are also
looking for the same rims
consequently I am looking into the viability of small production run.

As is always the case with small volume cast parts the cost is not
insignificant however without the rim the horns are useless and I know I
have several that need them.

This would be a one time run so if you are interested in purchasing some of
these rims I would appreciate your contacting me off line ASAP with details
of how many you would want and I will better be able to assess the demand.

-- 
Michael Salter
BN1 #174
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 18:07:16 2013
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	cIVahsB5hhw0hW5JbasDSqZuqPH0dktWdHwsM3y1BRMLI_WpCOEkU8.jcH7r
	wEcl8anoary7StHM70NIb41FSVhzAayJEnUpQ359Ga3Wc8nt404Y7oQ--
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References: <CAB3i7LJ9CEyx2RyzpM+hNY5WgR6TXTCf_B2TpqpErUCYDMGZ=A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 17:02:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas HF1748 Horn Rims
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

BTW - I just got my horns back from Lawrie Rhoads.  He did a very nice job of
restoring my horns for my BN2.  No financial interest, just a satisfied
customer.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5





>________________________________
>
>
>Subject: [Healeys] Lucas HF1748 Horn Rims
> 
>
>I have been unable to find
replacement rims for the HF1748 horns on my 100
>
>
>
>-- 
>Michael Salter
>BN1 #174
>_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 19:02:22 2013
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	Mon, 2 Dec 2013 17:59:31 -0800
From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>, Michael Salter
	<michaelsalter@gmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 01:59:30 +0000
References: <CAB3i7LJ9CEyx2RyzpM+hNY5WgR6TXTCf_B2TpqpErUCYDMGZ=A@mail.gmail.com>,
	<1386032547.74221.YahooMailNeo@web181103.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	FILETIME=[4E723470:01CEEFCB]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas HF1748 Horn Rims
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I also had a horn rebuilt by Lawrie with excellent results.



Jean Caron


> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 17:02:27 -0800
> From: rrengineer.mike@att.net
> To: michaelsalter@gmail.com; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas HF1748 Horn Rims
>
> BTW - I just got my horns back from Lawrie Rhoads. He did a very nice job
of
> restoring my horns for my BN2. No financial interest, just a satisfied
> customer.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 AN5
>
>
>
>
>
> >________________________________
> >
> >
> >Subject: [Healeys] Lucas HF1748 Horn Rims
> >
> >
> >I have been unable to find
> replacement rims for the HF1748 horns on my 100
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >Michael Salter
> >BN1 #174
> >_______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration@ho
tmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  2 21:04:04 2013
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Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2013 23:01:09 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [Healeys] Lost some e-mails--Healey Marque topic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Will those of you who sent me requests on healey Marques copies please re-send them to me--I somehow lost a bunch of e-mails---someone was playing around with my PC.

Thanks
tom
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 08:48:59 2013
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References: <CAB3i7LJ9CEyx2RyzpM+hNY5WgR6TXTCf_B2TpqpErUCYDMGZ=A@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 15:46:12 +0000
From: John Harper <ah100register@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas HF1748 Horn Rims
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael
I have personally solved this shortage by turning a billet of aluminium. I
admit that most of the material ends up on the floor but one does end up
with an accurate fit. It needs a jig to accurately locate the fixing holes
unless one is using a CNC mill.

Best regards



On 2 December 2013 23:20, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

> I have been unable to find replacement rims for the HF1748 horns on my 100
> however during my search I have encountered many people who are also
> looking for the same rims
> consequently I am looking into the viability of small production run.
>
> As is always the case with small volume cast parts the cost is not
> insignificant however without the rim the horns are useless and I know I
> have several that need them.
>
> This would be a one time run so if you are interested in purchasing some of
> these rims I would appreciate your contacting me off line ASAP with details
> of how many you would want and I will better be able to assess the demand.
>
> --
> Michael Salter
> BN1 #174
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 11:28:52 2013
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Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2013 13:26:22 -0500
From: ggilliam@usol.com
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
User-Agent: Roundcube Webmail/0.8.1
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100 Coupe
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just saw this listing on Bring A Trailer for an unusual build....

http://bringatrailer.com/2013/12/02/head-scratcher-supra-powered-1956-austin-healey-100-gt-coupe/

Be the first in your neighborhood to have one!

Gordy
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 12:00:20 2013
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References: <6fd00a6e7c31eb750888db41925911dc@usol.com>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 10:57:10 -0800
To: ggilliam@usol.com
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100 Coupe
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A very cool car also from BAT
http://bringatrailer.com/2013/11/28/beautifully-stock-1970-ginetta-g15/
Come with a Imp Spot 998cc engine. I had one inmy Imp and built a two carb
SU manifold. The car would do 12K. Its a real screamer back in the day. and
still got 35 MPG. of course it used quarts and quarts of oil.....

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 10:26 AM, <ggilliam@usol.com> wrote:

> Just saw this listing on Bring A Trailer for an unusual build....
>
> http://bringatrailer.com/2013/12/02/head-scratcher-supra-
> powered-1956-austin-healey-100-gt-coupe/
>
> Be the first in your neighborhood to have one!
>
> Gordy
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec  3 13:16:35 2013
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References: <6fd00a6e7c31eb750888db41925911dc@usol.com>
	<CACPMnYpJDB0pV0mqGsgGzd-nxmWiJ+pH08phM8bn_RTRk+LEBg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2013 21:13:53 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100 Coupe
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Call e a foul, but I like this "GT" Healey. The coupe-lines are just about
perfect for y eye.

Gergo


2013/12/3 I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>

> A very cool car also from BAT
> http://bringatrailer.com/2013/11/28/beautifully-stock-1970-ginetta-g15/
> Come with a Imp Spot 998cc engine. I had one inmy Imp and built a two carb
> SU manifold. The car would do 12K. Its a real screamer back in the day. and
> still got 35 MPG. of course it used quarts and quarts of oil.....
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 10:26 AM, <ggilliam@usol.com> wrote:
>
> > Just saw this listing on Bring A Trailer for an unusual build....
> >
> > http://bringatrailer.com/2013/12/02/head-scratcher-supra-
> > powered-1956-austin-healey-100-gt-coupe/
> >
> > Be the first in your neighborhood to have one!
> >
> > Gordy
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> > options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 15:09:40 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <d48bb.180487f6.3f87ff69@aol.com>
	<CACPMnYoxGkcTHoD7w29D49rqXwPFi9bW2S3GVmvKx-v3arn2YA@mail.gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] A BJ8 for $17,800
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

Back in October there was an obvious scam on eBay of a BJ8 for sale at
$17,800.

 

I have written a few words on it for our club magazine, but don't have any
photos of the car itself.

 

If someone did save them would they be so kind as to send them to me please?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: eyera3@gmail.com [mailto:eyera3@gmail.com] On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Friday, 11 October 2013 2:13 AM
To: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Cc: Patrick Quinn; Greg Lemon; Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] A BJ8 for $17,800

 

You did better than my attempts to see an obvious scam car, stored at Ebay
warehouse... I told them my cousin worked there and he coul dget in to see
the car if I had its ID#, never heard back.....




Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

 

On Thu, Oct 10, 2013 at 6:02 AM, <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com> wrote:

And the plot thickens!


G'day  Greg

Have a look at the below:

Hoo Roo

Patrick  Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

Hi Patrick,
Thank you very much  for contacting me back.
Before I give you a specific date, I'll have to  talk to my boss to take
some
days off from work.
I'll keep you posted so  we can work something out  asap.

Thanks,
Sharon 
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 15:53:15 2013
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	UTC
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2013 14:50:33 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Hard top storage
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I need to build a pulley system to store my hardtop above the car 
when not in use. I know basically how to do it but it would be good 
to get some good advise so as to make the best system.

If someone has a picture or two they could send it would be appreciated.

John Spaur
San Jose
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 17:03:41 2013
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'john spaur'" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20131204144840.02087b90@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2013 18:58:48 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard top storage
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I would also like to see it for my site.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2013 5:51 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Hard top storage

I need to build a pulley system to store my hardtop above the car when not
in use. I know basically how to do it but it would be good to get some good
advise so as to make the best system.

If someone has a picture or two they could send it would be appreciated.

John Spaur
San Jose
'62 BT7
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 17:18:49 2013
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2013 19:15:32 -0500
From: Ken Fleming <ahmg@aol.com>
To: ahbn6@verizon.net, jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard top storage
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You can purchase one relatively cheap. B I did a few years back for my car. The one I purchased was for a Miata but works well. I will forward photo if purchasing is an option.
Ken



Sent from my Galaxy SB.III

-------- Original message --------
From: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> 
Date: 12/04/2013  6:58 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: 'john spaur' <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>,healeys@autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hard top storage 
 
I would also like to see it for my site.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of john spaur
Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2013 5:51 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Hard top storage

I need to build a pulley system to store my hardtop above the car when not
in use. I know basically how to do it but it would be good to get some good
advise so as to make the best system.

If someone has a picture or two they could send it would be appreciated.

John Spaur
San Jose
'62 BT7
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 22:43:49 2013
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 21:40:57 -0800
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <xcGT1m00B0NyJgq01cGUar>
Subject: [Healeys] Weber question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've not even finished building my engine yet (15 years on...)

I was wondering about Weber Carbs for a street driver Healey and about the
45DCOE being used for all the kits and such.

Weber recommends a 40 DCOE and supplies them with 32mm chokes for many very
successful 2 liter cars. That's a 40mm carb with 32mm choke for each 500 cc
chamber.  Why then would a Healey need a 45 with a 35mm choke?

Am I going to be ok for my moderately-built 3 liter Healey using the 40 DCOE
with 32mm chokes?

Thanks,
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 22:52:51 2013
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Date: Wed, 04 Dec 2013 22:47:38 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <xcGT1m00B0NyJgq01cGUar>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Wilko2 wrote:
> Am I going to be ok for my moderately-built 3 liter Healey using the 40 DCOE
> with 32mm chokes?
>
>

Yes, you will be fine.  Depending on what cam you use, what exhaust and such
you may want to go with 33 chokes, but 32 is a good starting point.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 23:08:36 2013
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 22:04:24 -0800
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <xcGT1m00B0NyJgq01cGUar>
	<DCCFE315-A3E3-463F-8188-857EF05A2685@cox.net>
	<xhqU1m02b0NyJgq01hqWvX>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

One thing I was thinking is that a larger bore with a smaller choke gives a
better venturi effect.

Supposedly the Healey can have a velocity problem anyway, so I figured the 40
would be fine as long as the chokes/venturis aren't too big in relation to the
bore. There must be some ratio that is ideal.

On Dec 4, 2013, at 9:47 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Wilko2 wrote:
>> Am I going to be ok for my moderately-built 3 liter Healey using the 40
DCOE
>> with 32mm chokes?
>>
>>
>
> Yes, you will be fine.  Depending on what cam you use, what exhaust and
such
> you may want to go with 33 chokes, but 32 is a good starting point.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 23:31:23 2013
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	<EDCE8AB2-83B4-4949-96A9-B4FB02C8D83E@cox.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2013 07:28:40 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I dont have personal experience with Webers on Healeys, but with minis
(1.3l, approx 100-110ps we always used  40s instead of 45s).

Just my 2 cents: on the road the SU is somewhat better than the weber. We
always had significant increase in consumption, and probles with takeoff
from idle with the webers. engine response and allout power is better thoug
(and the induction sound is marvelous).

Gergo


2013/12/5 Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>

> One thing I was thinking is that a larger bore with a smaller choke gives a
> better venturi effect.
>
> Supposedly the Healey can have a velocity problem anyway, so I figured the
> 40
> would be fine as long as the chokes/venturis aren't too big in relation to
> the
> bore. There must be some ratio that is ideal.
>
> On Dec 4, 2013, at 9:47 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>
> > Wilko2 wrote:
> >> Am I going to be ok for my moderately-built 3 liter Healey using the 40
> DCOE
> >> with 32mm chokes?
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Yes, you will be fine.  Depending on what cam you use, what exhaust and
> such
> > you may want to go with 33 chokes, but 32 is a good starting point.
> >
> > mjb.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec  4 23:44:18 2013
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From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Firefox/24.0 SeaMonkey/2.21
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <xcGT1m00B0NyJgq01cGUar>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Wilko2 wrote:
>   There must be some ratio that is ideal.
>
>

Somewhere in the incredible mess of my office I have a formula or two 
that takes into account
bore, stroke, max RPM, etc. to come up with a close starting point for 
carb size, chokes
and jets.  Wonder if I'll ever see it again.

There's a lot of trial and error involved with setting up Webers on a 
particular engine, and
a LOT of trials to get to the "ideal"  But it isn't that difficult to 
get pretty close.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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	<52A0201E.7000205@bradakis.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2013 23:02:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Ray Juncal <healeyray@yahoo.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The 40/32 is a good start but you need to get on a dyno with a good weber guy
to get the jets and emulsion tubes dialed in.  The S.U.s are a more flexible
street set up.
Ray





On Wednesday, December 4, 2013 10:42 PM, Mark J
Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com> wrote:
 
Wilko2 wrote:
>   There must be some
ratio that is ideal.
>
>

Somewhere in the incredible mess of my office I have
a formula or two 
that takes into account
bore, stroke, max RPM, etc. to come
up with a close starting point for 
carb size, chokes
and jets.  Wonder if
I'll ever see it again.

There's a lot of trial and error involved with
setting up Webers on a 
particular engine, and
a LOT of trials to get to the
"ideal"  But it isn't that difficult to 
get pretty close.


mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive:
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray@yahoo.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec  5 07:03:10 2013
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	<DCCFE315-A3E3-463F-8188-857EF05A2685@cox.net>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 00:58:27 +1100
To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have triple 45DCOE webers. With 34mm chokes. (34mm is 1.338 inches, and you
get 6 chokes with triple webers).
Do the maths. A 2inch Su is 50.8mm. You can have 2 or 3 of them.
Plus you get almost infinite adjustment with webers.
Triple 45's with 34mm chokes are fine for a road car. Probably 36's too. 38's
on a full serious high rev race engine.
But your definition of road car might be different to mine.
I've never seen triple 40DCOEs on a Healey. The magic barrel dia formula is
choke x 1.25 So a 40mm Dcoe can't be the correct answer, even with 34mm
chokes...
Best
Chris
Sent from my iPhone

> On 5 Dec 2013, at 4:40 pm, Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:
>
> I've not even finished building my engine yet (15 years on...)
>
> I was wondering about Weber Carbs for a street driver Healey and about the
> 45DCOE being used for all the kits and such.
>
> Weber recommends a 40 DCOE and supplies them with 32mm chokes for many very
> successful 2 liter cars. That's a 40mm carb with 32mm choke for each 500 cc
> chamber.  Why then would a Healey need a 45 with a 35mm choke?
>
> Am I going to be ok for my moderately-built 3 liter Healey using the 40
DCOE
> with 32mm chokes?
>
> Thanks,
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec  5 08:04:56 2013
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Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2013 15:59:11 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <xcGT1m00B0NyJgq01cGUar>
	<DCCFE315-A3E3-463F-8188-857EF05A2685@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

40mm side draft carbs with 35 mm chokes and short stacks should be fine 
for a road car or rally car. It will give you more power in the higher 
revolutions area, not so much low down torque. For 45's you would need 
another cam and you cannot potter around on country lanes. Ultimately 
they will give more power, but that will not be any good during day to 
day driving. OK for racing. You also need to port and polish the head 
and inlet manifold and reduce the back pressure of the exhaust (proper 
spaghetti exhaust manifold and big bore exaust system).
Better to go for the DellOrto's, they are more stable than Webers. They 
may be easier to get hold of second hand, Alfa, Fiat, Ford, Lotus.
A very good book about setting up your car with Webers or DellOrto's is:

How to build & power tune WEBER & DELLORTO DCOE & DHAL carburettors by 
Des Hammill
ISBN 1-901295-64-8

These can easily be found at Ebay.co.ik or Amazon.com

The important thing is to choose the correct chokes and assortment of 
jets and emulsion tubes, great fun. Best to use a rolling road, but that 
can turn out to be very expensive.

The main advantage is "The looks".

Kees Oudesluijs


Wilko2 schreef op 5-12-2013 6:40:
> I've not even finished building my engine yet (15 years on...)
>
> I was wondering about Weber Carbs for a street driver Healey and about the
> 45DCOE being used for all the kits and such.
>
> Weber recommends a 40 DCOE and supplies them with 32mm chokes for many very
> successful 2 liter cars. That's a 40mm carb with 32mm choke for each 500 cc
> chamber.  Why then would a Healey need a 45 with a 35mm choke?
>
> Am I going to be ok for my moderately-built 3 liter Healey using the 40 DCOE
> with 32mm chokes?
>
> Thanks,
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4259 / Virusdatabase: 3658/6891 - datum van uitgifte: 12/04/13
>
>


-- 
Kees Oudesluijs
Dorpsstraat 183
2995XG Heerjansdam
T: 078-677 1233
E: coudesluijs@chello.nl

Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT
Het Jensen Genootschap Holland
www.jensenholland.nl
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Subject: [Healeys] Weber question
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Speaking of Webers, is anyone using them on a street prepared 100,
successfully? By street prepared I mean under 10:1 compression, something
close to a "M" cam, perhaps a good exhaust header, etc.
Assuming well thought out engine design (I.E. not too radical for street use)
& well sorted out Webers Vs. SU's why would the Webers get lower fuel economy?
That would seem to indicate that they are not well sorted out.
While I am asking, what is a reasonable average MPG for a 100 as described
above with SU's when traveling on the two lane roads at about 60 MPH +/-?
Gary
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec  5 10:22:49 2013
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	<8D0BFE5B2C0C5F6-13F4-E1C7@webmail-va009.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2013 18:18:44 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Gary,

I always set my engines up "scientificly" (wide band lamda sensors,
ignition maping, rolling road), still I get lower fuel economy on webers vs
SUs. Please forgive me if I dont explain the reason, but my english is not
that good.

G


2013/12/5 <warthodson@aol.com>

> Speaking of Webers, is anyone using them on a street prepared 100,
> successfully? By street prepared I mean under 10:1 compression, something
> close to a "M" cam, perhaps a good exhaust header, etc.
> Assuming well thought out engine design (I.E. not too radical for street
> use)
> & well sorted out Webers Vs. SU's why would the Webers get lower fuel
> economy?
> That would seem to indicate that they are not well sorted out.
> While I am asking, what is a reasonable average MPG for a 100 as described
> above with SU's when traveling on the two lane roads at about 60 MPH +/-?
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec  5 10:26:52 2013
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2013 12:24:15 -0500 (EST)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey Online Magazine
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With the winter months here in the northern part of the world and some time 
 to kick back and do some reading, here's a nice way to read about cars 
online.  It's a free publication out of the U.K. and I've been reading it for 
quite a  while. Great articles, really nice photos and it's FREE! So no 
financial  interest on my part, just good winter reading for all. And all of 
their back  issues are also available at the click of your mouse. Enjoy.
 
_www.cprmag.co.uk_ (http://www.cprmag.co.uk)  
 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec  5 10:42:45 2013
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2013 18:40:04 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>, Healey List
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

"Do the maths. A 2inch Su is 50.8mm. You can have 2 or 3 of them."

We have HD6s, which are only 1.75in (44mm) for 2 or 3 cylinders, if You fit
a 45dcoe, You will DOUBLE, that. Bigger is not always better. You need gas
velocity for a good, stabile mixture.
As a guideline, one 1.75 SU is enough to feed 90-95 hps, and even good up
to 100 with not much loss. Our Healey is very overfed with the stock engine
and 2 HD6s.

Gergo


2013/12/5 Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>

> I have triple 45DCOE webers. With 34mm chokes. (34mm is 1.338 inches, and
> you
> get 6 chokes with triple webers).
> Do the maths. A 2inch Su is 50.8mm. You can have 2 or 3 of them.
> Plus you get almost infinite adjustment with webers.
> Triple 45's with 34mm chokes are fine for a road car. Probably 36's too.
> 38's
> on a full serious high rev race engine.
> But your definition of road car might be different to mine.
> I've never seen triple 40DCOEs on a Healey. The magic barrel dia formula is
> choke x 1.25 So a 40mm Dcoe can't be the correct answer, even with 34mm
> chokes...
> Best
> Chris
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On 5 Dec 2013, at 4:40 pm, Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:
> >
> > I've not even finished building my engine yet (15 years on...)
> >
> > I was wondering about Weber Carbs for a street driver Healey and about
> the
> > 45DCOE being used for all the kits and such.
> >
> > Weber recommends a 40 DCOE and supplies them with 32mm chokes for many
> very
> > successful 2 liter cars. That's a 40mm carb with 32mm choke for each 500
> cc
> > chamber.  Why then would a Healey need a 45 with a 35mm choke?
> >
> > Am I going to be ok for my moderately-built 3 liter Healey using the 40
> DCOE
> > with 32mm chokes?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec  5 11:11:31 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2013 10:08:19 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] fuel economy
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I rate my drive in the Healey by smiles per gallon.
I am finishing up th einstallation of two HD8s on my BT7 29D engine. It has
performance cam and +.40 pistons. I expect lower MPG but increased smiles
per gallon.
Cheers
Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR
You call it happiness. I call it Acute Despair Deficit syndrome.
My Doppelgdnger wants to start resembling other people.
copied from the Nein Quarterly
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec  5 11:33:36 2013
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Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2013 13:30:47 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "warthodson@aol.com" <warthodson@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber question
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Gary,
Not so easy because the 100 head has siamesed inlet ports so the best you
can do is one 45DCOE or install an "S" head!!
We have 2 x 45 DCOEs on AHX12 and although they are, as mentioned, great
for getting the most power at higher RPM they are not a lot of fun around
town.
I would pick SUs any day for a road car, but when it comes to show Webers
sure take the prize. It's a bit like golf: Drive for show; putt for dough.

Michael S



On Thu, Dec 5, 2013 at 10:27 AM, <warthodson@aol.com> wrote:

> Speaking of Webers, is anyone using them on a street prepared 100,
> successfully? By street prepared I mean under 10:1 compression, something
> close to a "M" cam, perhaps a good exhaust header, etc.
> Assuming well thought out engine design (I.E. not too radical for street
> use)
> & well sorted out Webers Vs. SU's why would the Webers get lower fuel
> economy?
> That would seem to indicate that they are not well sorted out.
> While I am asking, what is a reasonable average MPG for a 100 as described
> above with SU's when traveling on the two lane roads at about 60 MPH +/-?
> Gary
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
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From: "Ron Fine" <ronfineesq@earthlink.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2013 12:59:15 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Free Steel Gas Tank
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have an original steel gas tank removed from my 61BN7.  All exterior surface
rust was removed and exterior painted black.  Interior has some slight dusting
of surface rust but it looks like it would be easy to clean out. Original
fittings are still on tank.  There were no leaks or obvious problems with the
tank when it was in my car.  It is free to anyone on this list who wants to
pick it up (West Los Angeles) or pay for shipping.  I hate to throw it away
but I need it out of my garage.

If you are interested, contact me off the list.

Ron Fine
61BN7
66 MGB
310-871-3966
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec  5 21:06:06 2013
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 2013 22:28:39 -0500
To: healeylist <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Chrome Lucas Sport Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does such a thing exist? I swear I have seen them on cars before, but I cannot
find a source for one.

I have seen the chrome flamethrower coil. It's nose (where the coil wire
connects to coil) isn't quite the same as the Lucas or Intermotor. It is a
larger diameter and the terminal inside the "nose" is recessed farther than
the Lucas or Intermotor. I also think Powerspark makes a chrome body coil that
is claimed to be the Lucas Sport Coil equivalent.

Anyway, just curious.

Lin
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 00:13:19 2013
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 06:37:50 +0000 (UTC)
From: MITCHELL SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: test
Thread-Index: Ll9X5FBkZAUXtxyC9SNFEu9gl0jroA==
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Subject: [Healeys] test
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test 
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 01:05:26 2013
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References: <1483739831.10318735.1386311870410.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 01:07:07 -0600
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: MITCHELL SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] test
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It works.

jerry. wall
rowlett tx. check www.aquaflodrainage.com
On Dec 6, 2013 1:05 AM, "MITCHELL SIMMON" <dayton21@comcast.net> wrote:

> test
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 07:41:01 2013
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 13:58:05 +0000 (UTC)
From: MITCHELL SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: jubilee hose clamps/ which is the best ignition coil
Thread-Index: mehQXlJBHq8Lpvhfhe+f6yBgG5n58g==
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Subject: [Healeys] jubilee hose clamps/ which is the best ignition coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,
B 
I am looking for real jubilee hose clamps.....................is there a
Supplier.in the U.S.A.?
Also which is the BEST ignition coil?B B  I have Petronics instead of
points...............was told the petronics coils are not as good as they used
to be
Thanks
Mitch
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 09:34:37 2013
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	Fri, 6 Dec 2013 07:59:26 -0800
From: TERRY COLL <coll44@msn.com>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 10:59:25 -0500
References: <1483739831.10318735.1386311870410.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	FILETIME=[2365B0D0:01CEF29C]
Subject: [Healeys] dangers of ethanol
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Good friend who is a machinist and an MG and Triumph owner/restorer sent me
this video.  Thought it might be of interest to our group.

   http://www.historicvehicle.org/Resources/Resources/Ethanol/Ethanol-Video

Terry Coll  '64 BJ8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 09:57:53 2013
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References: <yEiM1m00W0NyJgq01EiQ9a>
From: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 07:53:07 -0800
To: MITCHELL SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] jubilee hose clamps/ which is the best ignition coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've been buying "dura last" coils and condensers for my lbc's for the last 3
years because of constant failures from the Lucas and "aftermarket" stuff from
moss.

I haven't had a single problem since I switched and there are 4 runners in my
fleet.

They won't be able to find your car in the computer at autozone- tell them you
have a 1965 vw

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 6, 2013, at 5:58 AM, MITCHELL SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Hello,
> B
> I am looking for real jubilee hose clamps.....................is there a
> Supplier.in the U.S.A.?
> Also which is the BEST ignition coil?B B  I have Petronics instead of
> points...............was told the petronics coils are not as good as they
used
> to be
> Thanks
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpaynepbr@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 10:21:58 2013
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	Fri, 06 Dec 2013 10:00:00 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1813936627.10562392.1386337754812.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<405386259.10570466.1386338285720.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2013 10:59:57 -0500
Thread-index: AQI0Rm0zNq69ympOlgUonOyz86ils5l8q2DQgAAAKKA=
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] FW: jubilee hose clamps/ which is the best ignition coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I see them on eBay. 

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of MITCHELL SIMMON
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 8:58 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] jubilee hose clamps/ which is the best ignition coil

Hello,
B
I am looking for real jubilee hose clamps.....................is there a
Supplier.in the U.S.A.?
Also which is the BEST ignition coil?B B  I have Petronics instead of
points...............was told the petronics coils are not as good as they
used to be Thanks Mitch _______________________________________________
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 11:03:19 2013
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	healeys@autox.team.net; Fri, 06 Dec 2013 12:41:48 -0500
From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
To: "AH Mail List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1483739831.10318735.1386311870410.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<COL129-W377755EC5BBD8C9271032DC9D60@phx.gbl>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 09:41:45 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dangers of ethanol
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I thought I had saved a couple of recent newspaper articles but I cannot 
find them right now.  However, it appears that there are some legislators 
that have discovered that the use of ethanol in the gasoline is having 
negative issues in automobiles and real and unintended consequences in the 
expanded diversion of corn for automotive use.  They are looking at 
discontinuing its use and certainly not increasing the ratio to 15% (E85) as 
others are suggesting.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TERRY COLL" <coll44@msn.com>
To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 7:59 AM
Subject: [Healeys] dangers of ethanol


> Good friend who is a machinist and an MG and Triumph owner/restorer sent 
> me
> this video.  Thought it might be of interest to our group.
>
>   http://www.historicvehicle.org/Resources/Resources/Ethanol/Ethanol-Video
>
> Terry Coll  '64 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 12:00:54 2013
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From: Don Joy <britcar1@msn.com>
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>, AustinHealey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 10:46:27 -0800
References: <1813936627.10562392.1386337754812.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>,
	<405386259.10570466.1386338285720.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>,
	<003301cef29c$3697c8a0$a3c759e0$@verizon.net>
	FILETIME=[787AE1F0:01CEF2B3]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: jubilee hose clamps/ which is the best ignition
 coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Jaguar used Jubilee hose clamps on E-Types and probably others.  I bought some
from SNG Barrett and they still have them listed on their web site.  Other
Jaguar suppliers probably do too.

Don Joy

'66 BJ8

> From: ahbn6@verizon.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 10:59:57 -0500
> Subject: [Healeys] FW: jubilee hose clamps/ which is the best ignition coil
>
> I see them on eBay.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of MITCHELL SIMMON
> Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 8:58 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] jubilee hose clamps/ which is the best ignition coil
>
> Hello,
> B
> I am looking for real jubilee hose clamps.....................is there a
> Supplier.in the U.S.A.?
> Also which is the BEST ignition coil?B B  I have Petronics instead of
> points...............was told the petronics coils are not as good as they
> used to be Thanks Mitch _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 12:32:11 2013
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: editorgary@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 14:07:23 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas Sport Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 I've got an original Lucas Sport Coil on my BN7. They weren't chrome, but
rather aluminum and could be shined up real pretty, except that you have to be
careful about the original label. The distinguishing feature of the originals
is a fluted orange nose cone instead of the smooth black cone of the regular
coils.

G.



Gary Anderson
Editor-at-large, Austin-Healey Magazine
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 14:55:29 2013
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 15:47:24 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Cam end play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Putting the lump back together and doing up the front plate.  How is the
cam located front to back?  There's no thrust bearing/washer just the
locating plate which doesn't look like a piece that deals with rotating
friction.
I just drive the cam sprocket home, tighten it down and the locating plate
takes care of it? The factory manual just states the ever-informative
"reassembly is a reversal....". It just doesn't feel right - too easy.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
Pepperell, ma
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 16:04:21 2013
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From: "Andy" <sneddon@xsmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 21:25:10 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac7yyaTcrqWT8IxaRIu2NfqdCJFYCQ==
Content-language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Looking at various pictures of the Works cars which ran at Sebring such as
the FAC's and 767 KNX, their fixing of the front spot lights is different to
that seen on the rally cars.  With the Sebring cars the front spots look to
be mounted directly to the front shroud where-as on the rally cars the front
spots are generally mounted on a bracket which comes under the front
valance.

 

Focusing on the Sebring cars, is the front valance / shroud dished to accept
the back of the spots or are they just fixed through a hole to a fixing
point behind?  Any details on how the fixing was done would be most welcome.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 17:07:19 2013
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From: <insptwo@msn.com>
To: Len andor Marge Hartnett <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>, healey help
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 17:35:04 -0500
References: <1483739831.10318735.1386311870410.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>,
	<COL129-W377755EC5BBD8C9271032DC9D60@phx.gbl>,
	<C0B969ADD1C043EE89916289A9FDB8AA@LeonardPCPC>
	FILETIME=[68C18FA0:01CEF2D3]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] dangers of ethanol
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What all can be said about an extremely lousy situation.
When the 10% ethanol became mandatory, My gas mileage dropped by 10% and so
did everyone I talked to. Do the math! America is no better off! Plus there
were numerous articles covering the rise in costs of beef and other corn fed
animals.
I also noted that both my new Ranger and my wife's new mustang state VERY
CLEARLY IN THE MANUAL, not to use the upcoming 15%.
Bill
BJ7

> From: thehartnetts@earthlink.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 09:41:45 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] dangers of ethanol
>
> I thought I had saved a couple of recent newspaper articles but I cannot
> find them right now.  However, it appears that there are some legislators
> that have discovered that the use of ethanol in the gasoline is having
> negative issues in automobiles and real and unintended consequences in the
> expanded diversion of corn for automotive use.  They are looking at
> discontinuing its use and certainly not increasing the ratio to 15% (E85) as
> others are suggesting.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Vacaville, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "TERRY COLL" <coll44@msn.com>
> To: "austin healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 7:59 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] dangers of ethanol
>
>
> > Good friend who is a machinist and an MG and Triumph owner/restorer sent
> > me
> > this video.  Thought it might be of interest to our group.
> >
> >
http://www.historicvehicle.org/Resources/Resources/Ethanol/Ethanol-Video
> >
> > Terry Coll  '64 BJ8
> > _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 17:37:11 2013
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Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2013 18:44:54 -0500 (EST)
From: carroll phillips <bjcap@optonline.net>
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
User-Agent: Laszlo Mail 3
Subject: [Healeys] RE chrome Lucas Sport coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Lin, have never seen a Lucas Chrome sport coil, only the aluminum with 
the redish orange tops and matching wire nut. BTW these original coils 
are now getting very pricey (not the gold anodised ones) and a friend of 
mine just made exact copies of the original Lucas Sports coil decals for 
these coils if anyone is interested ,not the junk out there on the 
internet, early ones had no border and later ones has an angled thin 
border.no financial interest
http://planb.tempusfugitgarage.com/

Carroll
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 17:38:41 2013
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 16:00:07 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Pakistani Healey owner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.npr.org/blogs/parallels/2013/12/06/248994944/driving-pakistans-badlands-in-a-vintage-british-convertible?utm_medium=Email&utm_source=share&utm_campaign=

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 17:42:07 2013
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 18:05:43 -0600
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: "<healeys@Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Healey Travels and Texas weather
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: jerry wall <jwbn6@verizon.net>
Date: Fri, Dec 6, 2013 at 6:02 PM
Subject: Fwd: Healey Travels and Texas weather
To: jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com






JERRY WALL BN6
ROWLETT, TX
----------Original Message----------

From: jerry wall
Date: Dec 6, 2013 2:58:42 PM
Subject: Healey Travels and Texas weather
To: healeys@autox.team.net

 Wed was a gorgeous day with temperatures hovering in the mid to high
70's.  An absolutely delightful day for the 60th Xmas luncheon of '53
Ardmore, Ok high school graduating class so why not make the 100 mile
journey in the faithful BN6.  Wonderful meal with old friends. I filled up
at $2.87.9 for the trip home.  The Healey ran great and was in full song
with the Kirk headers providing added resonance.  I arrived home only 30
minutes past the dog's feeding time.
What a difference a day makes. The sleet, ice and snow arrived last night
and today the temp is 28F. and I've been iced in for the entire day.
Timing is everything.  The NTAHC Xmas wasn't as luckey,  It's rescheduled
from this Sun to the following Sun as this northern blast is sticking
around for a few days.
Cheers,

JERRY WALL BN6
ROWLETT, TX




-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 17:42:59 2013
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Subject: [Healeys] An Authentic AH Road Warrior
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On NPR this evening there is a story about a Pakistani vintage car 
collector who led a convoy of collectors on a 1000-mile road trip 
through areas that many avoid due to perceived personal risk.  He is, 
however, not intimidated, as he drives his '54 AH 100, where many fear 
to go.

Here's the link:
http://www.npr.org/blogs/parallels/2013/12/06/248994944/driving-pakistans-badlands-in-a-vintage-british-convertible

Bob
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 18:36:23 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Andy'" <sneddon@xsmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <00a001cef2c9$a5a47590$f0ed60b0$@com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 10:07:20 +1100
Thread-index: AQFg67pnNwqAApQNDAXlQ4JAc2JZ3Zsj1twQ
Content-language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Andy

The three '63 cars were the first to use such lights. The '64 (767 KNX) car
had a similar arrangement as did the '65 car or DAC 953C.

Don't forget the Works Rally cars were prepared by BMC at Abingdon while the
Sebring cars were prepared at Warwick, by the Donald Healey Motor Company.

Joe Armour who is one of the contributors to this list owns the '65 car (DAC
953C) and I am sure he will tell you all you need to know.

I will call him and get him out of bed.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andy
Sent: Saturday, 7 December 2013 8:25 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's

Looking at various pictures of the Works cars which ran at Sebring such as
the FAC's and 767 KNX, their fixing of the front spot lights is different to
that seen on the rally cars.  With the Sebring cars the front spots look to
be mounted directly to the front shroud where-as on the rally cars the front
spots are generally mounted on a bracket which comes under the front
valance.

 

Focusing on the Sebring cars, is the front valance / shroud dished to accept
the back of the spots or are they just fixed through a hole to a fixing
point behind?  Any details on how the fixing was done would be most welcome.
$12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 19:31:33 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 17:02:31 -0800
References: <yQS81m01j0NyJgq01QS9to>
To: Andy <sneddon@xsmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I like the earlier cars like the UJB group. They were mounted under the front
similar to the rally cars, but less hardware.

The later cars FAC were just in front of the shroud. small hole through for
wires.



On Dec 6, 2013, at 1:25 PM, Andy wrote:

> Looking at various pictures of the Works cars which ran at Sebring such as
> the FAC's and 767 KNX, their fixing of the front spot lights is different
to
> that seen on the rally cars.  With the Sebring cars the front spots look to
> be mounted directly to the front shroud where-as on the rally cars the
front
> spots are generally mounted on a bracket which comes under the front
> valance.
>
>
>
> Focusing on the Sebring cars, is the front valance / shroud dished to
accept
> the back of the spots or are they just fixed through a hole to a fixing
> point behind?  Any details on how the fixing was done would be most
welcome.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 19:38:21 2013
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 17:09:44 -0800
References: <yQS81m01j0NyJgq01QS9to>
To: Andy <sneddon@xsmail.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here is a pic of 54 FAC with the lights removed (you'll need to paste link
into browser as team.net filters full URLs):

ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/54_fac_no_lights.jpg


On Dec 6, 2013, at 1:25 PM, Andy wrote:



> Looking at various pictures of the Works cars which ran at Sebring such as
> the FAC's and 767 KNX, their fixing of the front spot lights is different
to
> that seen on the rally cars.  With the Sebring cars the front spots look to
> be mounted directly to the front shroud where-as on the rally cars the
front
> spots are generally mounted on a bracket which comes under the front
> valance.
>
>
>
> Focusing on the Sebring cars, is the front valance / shroud dished to
accept
> the back of the spots or are they just fixed through a hole to a fixing
> point behind?  Any details on how the fixing was done would be most
welcome.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 19:43:09 2013
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	<52A2564A.9000805@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 17:19:06 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: "R. Cobb" <rcobb@earthlink.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] An Authentic AH Road Warrior
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Robb,

Great article, thank you for sharing it with the List.

Curt


On Fri, Dec 6, 2013 at 2:57 PM, R. Cobb <rcobb@earthlink.net> wrote:

> On NPR this evening there is a story about a Pakistani vintage car
> collector who led a convoy of collectors on a 1000-mile road trip through
> areas that many avoid due to perceived personal risk.  He is, however, not
> intimidated, as he drives his '54 AH 100, where many fear to go.
>
> Here's the link:
> http://www.npr.org/blogs/parallels/2013/12/06/248994944/driving-pakistans-
> badlands-in-a-vintage-british-convertible
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 19:45:27 2013
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Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 20:40:30 -0500
From: dave anderson <bradh904@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] test
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net


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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 20:42:46 2013
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 02:12:19 +0000
References: <CAA-dtXaaaczyaYXh216oySjBJ8H670ckPQKEez5CcvLNDQuMJA@mail.gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[C27B3E60:01CEF2F1]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam end play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike
That locating plate is actually the "thrust plate". The camshaft is located
"front to back" by the oil pump driving spindle that pushes the camshaft
forward into that thrust plate.  A word of caution. A 100-6 rotor style oil
pump puts way too much force into that camshaft and into that thrust plate.
That's why later 100-6 thrust plates had oil grooves machined into them.  The
3000 engines used the gear style oil pump and the problems went away.
Richard

> Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 15:47:24 -0500
> From: ahbt71@gmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Cam end play
>
> Putting the lump back together and doing up the front plate.  How is the
> cam located front to back?  There's no thrust bearing/washer just the
> locating plate which doesn't look like a piece that deals with rotating
> friction.
> I just drive the cam sprocket home, tighten it down and the locating plate
> takes care of it? The factory manual just states the ever-informative
> "reassembly is a reversal....". It just doesn't feel right - too easy.
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
> Pepperell, ma
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 21:41:18 2013
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References: <CACPMnYprMr6wZ-Yrv9CQ-yuZ2aOs=oZyjEZ97xCRMBzqf81_bg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 22:15:27 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pakistani Healey owner
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thumbs up to Moshin

Bob Johnson
On Dec 6, 2013 7:36 PM, "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> http://www.npr.org/blogs/parallels/2013/12/06/248994944/driving-pakistans-badlands-in-a-vintage-british-convertible?utm_medium=Email&utm_source=share&utm_campaign=
>
> Ira Erbs
> IT Educator and Consultant
> Portland, OR.
>
> Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 22:22:30 2013
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From: "Skip Saunders" <tfsbj7@mindspring.com>
To: "'Mike Tobin'" <ahbt71@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAA-dtXaaaczyaYXh216oySjBJ8H670ckPQKEez5CcvLNDQuMJA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 22:18:58 -0500
Thread-Index: AQLPBaadgnms/rvlciuHDCrzMzE255hH6Zrw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam end play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just using the plate works.... however, over time, because there is rotating
friction, there will be a circular groove eventually worn into the plate.
Be sure this groove is not very deep.   I had a plate with a groove that was
too deep (I can't recall exactly, but perhaps 1/8" to 1/4" deep???).   The
problem with that deep a groove is that the cam can move slightly forward in
the block and the tappet and cam follower will touch the inside of the
block.   As the cam follower rotates it comes in contact and then misses,
then comes in contact, then misses..... makes a horrible racket when it is
touching and makes you think the engine is going to die......but because it
is intermittent it is tough to localize.   (that's the long story....the
short story:  Just put an un-worn plate on and don't worry about it.)

Thanks
-skip-

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mike Tobin
Sent: Friday, December 06, 2013 3:47 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Cam end play

Putting the lump back together and doing up the front plate.  How is the cam
located front to back?  There's no thrust bearing/washer just the locating
plate which doesn't look like a piece that deals with rotating friction.
I just drive the cam sprocket home, tighten it down and the locating plate
takes care of it? The factory manual just states the ever-informative
"reassembly is a reversal....". It just doesn't feel right - too easy.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
Pepperell, ma
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 22:24:41 2013
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From: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2013 20:04:19 -0500
To: healeylist <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Chrome Lucas Sport Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to everyone who responded. I am convinced now that I have never seen
what I thought I had seen. Perhaps it was a highly polished original, or even
a Pertronix with a Lucas decal. Anyway, thanks!

Lin
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 22:25:24 2013
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	20:14:19 -0800 PST
From: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>
To: "'Linwood Rose'" <linwoodrose@mac.com>, "'healeylist'"
	<Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <18160AF3-EA31-45A3-A2BA-D7ED7402CE1D@mac.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 17:14:15 +1300
Thread-Index: Ac7y9/KPhCKKIZd+Soa16vn//NfazwACMaOg
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chrome Lucas Sport Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Lin,

In the seventies you could buy a chrome dress-up sleeve, from dealers
here in Auckland, that was an interference-slide-fit over a stock HA12
Lucas coil.  I assume they were imported so would have been available
in other countries, including the US.

So, whilst they were not original, you could well have seen one on a
car and, without close inspection, might have assumed it was a stock
item.

Cheers
Mark
Auckland, NZ


-----Original Message-----
From: Linwood Rose [mailto:linwoodrose@mac.com] 
Sent: Friday, 6 December 2013 4:29 p.m.
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] Chrome Lucas Sport Coil

Does such a thing exist? I swear I have seen them on cars before, but
I cannot
find a source for one.

I have seen the chrome flamethrower coil. It's nose (where the coil
wire
connects to coil) isn't quite the same as the Lucas or Intermotor. It
is a
larger diameter and the terminal inside the "nose" is recessed farther
than
the Lucas or Intermotor. I also think Powerspark makes a chrome body
coil that is claimed to be the Lucas Sport Coil equivalent.

Anyway, just curious.

Lin
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 22:52:18 2013
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From: "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 15:01:52 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Mystery car for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone know what this is? Badge appears to be a capital 'A'


http://www.autobidmaster.com/carfinder-online-auto-auctions/lot/34026963/COPA
RT_1963_ASSEMBLY_KITCAR_SALVAGE_CERTIFICATE_/


Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec  6 23:11:09 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <bradh904@gmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAHjD0-QwGapp5a+4YAA0BGm-nFkWeRkWr4GJ+K7bp5vYw8G+9w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 15:49:02 +1100
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] test
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You passed!

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dave anderson
Sent: Saturday, 7 December 2013 12:41 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] test
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 03:22:44 2013
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 01:23:35 -0800 (PST)
From: agrossman@pacific.net
To: healeys@autox.team.net
User-Agent: SquirrelMail/1.4.10a
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mystery car for sale
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It's an Apollo. Not a kit car. Lots of info on the net. Coachbuilt body,
Buick 215 power.
>http://mycarquest.com/2013/04/the-50th-anniversary-of-the-apollo-gt-a-terrific-but-nearly-forgotten-car.html<

Cheers, Alan
> Anyone know what this is? Badge appears to be a capital 'A'
>
>
> http://www.autobidmaster.com/carfinder-online-auto-auctions/lot/34026963/COPA
> RT_1963_ASSEMBLY_KITCAR_SALVAGE_CERTIFICATE_/
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 08:09:38 2013
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	<BAY173-W51656BF73E7C91503BA5FDC0D10@phx.gbl>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 08:52:45 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam end play
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for the feedback.  The locating plate does show signs on each side
that something was rotating against it.  A slight polishing no real wear.
Wouldn't have suspected the oil pump played a role.  Thought I was pretty
knowledgeable when I started this, but I didn't know all the things I
didn't know.
Mike
On Dec 6, 2013 9:12 PM, "richard mayor" <mayorrichard@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Mike
> That locating plate is actually the "thrust plate". The camshaft is
> located "front to back" by the oil pump driving spindle that pushes the
> camshaft forward into that thrust plate.  A word of caution. A 100-6 rotor
> style oil pump puts way too much force into that camshaft and into that
> thrust plate. That's why later 100-6 thrust plates had oil grooves machined
> into them.  The 3000 engines used the gear style oil pump and the problems
> went away.
> Richard
>
> > Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 15:47:24 -0500
> > From: ahbt71@gmail.com
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Cam end play
> >
> > Putting the lump back together and doing up the front plate. How is the
> > cam located front to back? There's no thrust bearing/washer just the
> > locating plate which doesn't look like a piece that deals with rotating
> > friction.
> > I just drive the cam sprocket home, tighten it down and the locating
> plate
> > takes care of it? The factory manual just states the ever-informative
> > "reassembly is a reversal....". It just doesn't feel right - too easy.
> > Cheers,
> > Mike Tobin
> > Pepperell, ma
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 08:10:35 2013
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From: Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos@msn.com>
To: "agrossman@pacific.net" <agrossman@pacific.net>,
	"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 06:56:57 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mystery car for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the bad guys drive one of these in the original "Love Bug" movie.

Cheers, Henry Morrison New Mexico

> Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 01:23:35 -0800
> From: agrossman@pacific.net
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mystery car for sale
>
> It's an Apollo. Not a kit car. Lots of info on the net. Coachbuilt body,
> Buick 215 power.
>
>http://mycarquest.com/2013/04/the-50th-anniversary-of-the-apollo-gt-a-terrif
ic-but-nearly-forgotten-car.html<
>
> Cheers, Alan
> > Anyone know what this is? Badge appears to be a capital 'A'
> >
> >
> >
http://www.autobidmaster.com/carfinder-online-auto-auctions/lot/34026963/COPA
> > RT_1963_ASSEMBLY_KITCAR_SALVAGE_CERTIFICATE_/
> >
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Peter Linn
> > Brisbane Oz
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman@pacific.net
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 10:43:01 2013
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To: Peter & Veronica <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mystery car for sale
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Apollo?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 6, 2013, at 9:01 PM, "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
wrote:
>
> Anyone know what this is? Badge appears to be a capital 'A'
>
>
>
http://www.autobidmaster.com/carfinder-online-auto-auctions/lot/34026963/COPA
> RT_1963_ASSEMBLY_KITCAR_SALVAGE_CERTIFICATE_/
>
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
> Brisbane Oz
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 12:12:35 2013
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 13:13:20 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] No Bright Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't see the bright links on the timing chain.  There's a master link
but the rest are identical as far as I can tell.  Why does this matter?
Isn't it enough to just align the keys?  Is there a link or two of slack on
one side?
I think this was covered recently but I can't find anything in the archive.
mike
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 12:38:56 2013
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose@mac.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 18:59:07 +0000
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	FILETIME=[68096C80:01CEF37E]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Chrome Lucas Sport Coil
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought a chrome coil about 10 years ago for my '68 Javelin...... Mallory,
part #29217

Richard Mayor

> From: linwoodrose@mac.com
> Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 20:04:19 -0500
> To: Healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Chrome Lucas Sport Coil
>
> Thanks to everyone who responded. I am convinced now that I have never seen
> what I thought I had seen. Perhaps it was a highly polished original, or
even
> a Pertronix with a Lucas decal. Anyway, thanks!
>
> Lin
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 13:43:59 2013
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From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAA-dtXbQ3YH2ADYse9wK=AvP==7tYQWA8MN9jCaYOaWDJcpt3w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 14:26:02 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac7zf/eOrIRCMWYtTNabFyU1ApjoiwAANkBA
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Bright Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike, the chains aren't made with bright links anymore.  But there is a
dimple on the cam and crank pulleys.  There should be 15 chain links between
the dimples, including the links next to the dimples.  See the attached
photo.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA



-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mike Tobin
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 1:13 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] No Bright Links

I don't see the bright links on the timing chain.  There's a master link
but the rest are identical as far as I can tell.  Why does this matter?
Isn't it enough to just align the keys?  Is there a link or two of slack on
one side?
I think this was covered recently but I can't find anything in the archive.
mike

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of timing chain.jpg]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 15:13:21 2013
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From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 21:26:52 +0100
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Subject: [Healeys] Lucas sports Coil
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Wasn't the aluminum, red top Sport's coil a '60ies coil? I thought the
original for a Healey was the earlier HS-12 coil.

This one is fairly uncommon, I found one sometime ago on ebay - nobody
wanted it...

However, it's not the same color as in Concourse guidelines. It does have
the original metal label.

Tadek
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 15:24:05 2013
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 12:24:55 -0800
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <yjA71m00B0NyJgq01jA8Ts>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Bright Links
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It matters as there is slack on one side. count the links on the "tight"
side.

Here's a picture you can count to match:
ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/healey_timing.gif

Or clean the chain good and you may see the marked links.

Wilko



On Dec 7, 2013, at 10:13 AM, Mike Tobin wrote:

> I don't see the bright links on the timing chain.  There's a master link
> but the rest are identical as far as I can tell.  Why does this matter?
> Isn't it enough to just align the keys?  Is there a link or two of slack on
> one side?
> I think this was covered recently but I can't find anything in the archive.
> mike
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 20:31:49 2013
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 02:02:43 +0000
References: <yjA71m00B0NyJgq01jA8Ts>,
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Bright Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Maybe take a black marker and mark two links 15 places apart. Use those for
your bright links.

Bill Lawrence

> From: e-wilkins@cox.net
> Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 12:24:55 -0800
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Bright Links
>
> It matters as there is slack on one side. count the links on the "tight"
> side.
>
> Here's a picture you can count to match:
> ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/healey_timing.gif
>
> Or clean the chain good and you may see the marked links.
>
> Wilko
>
>
>
> On Dec 7, 2013, at 10:13 AM, Mike Tobin wrote:
>
> > I don't see the bright links on the timing chain.  There's a master link
> > but the rest are identical as far as I can tell.  Why does this matter?
> > Isn't it enough to just align the keys?  Is there a link or two of slack
on
> > one side?
> > I think this was covered recently but I can't find anything in the
archive.
> > mike
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec  7 22:25:10 2013
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 20:39:38 -0800 (PST)
From: goldengt@cal.net
To: Peter & Veronica <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
  (Win)/7.2.3_GA_2872)
	TAG_LEVEL=1000.0 QUARANTINE_LEVEL=9.0 KILL_LEVEL=7.0
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mystery car for sale
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Might be Willy Muller's Apollo in Costa Mesa, Ca. He had one and it it kind of looks like his shop.
Ken Freese
65 BJ8

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, December 6, 2013 9:01:52 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Mystery car for sale

Anyone know what this is? Badge appears to be a capital 'A'


http://www.autobidmaster.com/carfinder-online-auto-auctions/lot/34026963/COPA
RT_1963_ASSEMBLY_KITCAR_SALVAGE_CERTIFICATE_/


Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane Oz
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 03:58:11 2013
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Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2013 21:23:32 +1100
From: J & L Armour <sebring@hotkey.net.au>
To: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: Sebring 3000s
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Sebring 3000s
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Blokes
A subject dear to me

First of all what do we all mean by 'the works'?

Jensen was the 'works' that Healeys were made at, less engine,gearbox and
wheels (see the pics available on some magazines/books)

MG Competition Dept later to become BMC Competition Dept. builder of 'works'
rally cars

MG Assembly line where the bits supplied by BMC that were missing when the
assembled chassis and interior was delivered from Jensen ( six at a time on
the back of a car transporter.)  Standard production car 'works'

Rally Healeys were built at the BMC Comps Dept and owned by MG Car Co.

Sebring UJB141, 142,143 and 144 were I think built at BMC Comps.

The BJ.7 1963 and 1964 cars were built at the Donald Healey Motor Co Warwick
'works' and owned by Healeys and fitted with a 'HEALEY' chassis plate.

My car the last, a BJ.8, was identified on the HEALEY chassis plate as :
TYPE  --    GT

Aux. lights were actually the fog type lens. Bodies were the same as the
clear lens 'driving' light

The BJ.7 lights were mounted with the single rear hollow bolt standard on
these Lucas lights and the shroud had a recessed bowl to recess the body of
the light.
My BJ.8 has the same light but it is mounted direct to the shroud without
the recess.

Remember that these Sebring cars were built as long distance, lightweight
circuit racers. I think DAC953C is just on the tonne in weight.  No wood
dash or centre console, no door window glass or interior door trim.  At
least the 1963 & 64 cars were without overdrive but DAC953C has it although
Geoff Healey could not remember if that was the case for Sebring 12 Hours

I am pleased to say that I have had DAC953C since 1977 when I rang a USAF
Major in London and he sent the car out from Mountain Home Idaho.  In those
days there was virtually nothing in print about these cars. Probably as they
were not part of the BMC publicity chain as much as other brands in the
group. One of the 1963 cars was used widely in a Champion spark plug advert
in the motoring press of the day.

Sorry about the lecture.
Joe
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 05:44:26 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 21:28:13 +1100
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Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Symptom
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

I have an odd symptom with a BJ8 clutch.

 

It appears to work perfectly when the air/car is cooler such as early
morning, but when it's warmer as it was this afternoon (an Australian
summer) it's sometimes difficult to engage or is notchy. At one stage this
afternoon it refused to engage at all and I could not select any gear. I
waited a minute or two and then it worked perfectly.

 

I suspect that it's a hydraulic and probably the slave cylinder, but there
does not appear to be any loss of fluid in the reservoir.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 21:24:39 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Symptom
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Do you have a BJ8 brake cylinder on the clutch pedal by mistake per chance?


On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 6:28 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> I have an odd symptom with a BJ8 clutch.
>
>
>
> It appears to work perfectly when the air/car is cooler such as early
> morning, but when it's warmer as it was this afternoon (an Australian
> summer) it's sometimes difficult to engage or is notchy. At one stage this
> afternoon it refused to engage at all and I could not select any gear. I
> waited a minute or two and then it worked perfectly.
>
>
>
> I suspect that it's a hydraulic and probably the slave cylinder, but there
> does not appear to be any loss of fluid in the reservoir.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 07:11:56 2013
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From: Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 14:19:32 +0100
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, 
	"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Symptom
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Probably the hose that is connected to the slave cylinder, they collapse when
old.

Best regards, Per

----- Ursprungligt meddelande -----
Fren: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Skickat: 2013-12-08 13:42
Till: healeys@autox.team.net
Dmne: [Healeys] Clutch Symptom

G'day



I have an odd symptom with a BJ8 clutch.



It appears to work perfectly when the air/car is cooler such as early
morning, but when it's warmer as it was this afternoon (an Australian
summer) it's sometimes difficult to engage or is notchy. At one stage this
afternoon it refused to engage at all and I could not select any gear. I
waited a minute or two and then it worked perfectly.



I suspect that it's a hydraulic and probably the slave cylinder, but there
does not appear to be any loss of fluid in the reservoir.



Any suggestions?



Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per@schoerner.se
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 07:32:12 2013
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 13:56:35 +0000 (UTC)
From: MITCHELL SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: BMC competition parts
Thread-Index: CPjbNfR5JtmJe7QJNZGOmBFJAozXTg==
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Subject: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello List,
B 
Anyone have info. on what was available in the 1950's-60'sB 
..............pertaining to competition parts, upgrades, etc. for Big Healeys
,etc.B  I have a pair of NOS. REAR ADJUSTIBLE SHOCKSB  that I am trying to
ID.B  The fellow I bought these from said he bought them in around 1960 from
bmcB  competition parts department............they look like Armstrong but are
unmarkedB  but have some numbers and EP stamped into them.......I have pics.
of them if anyone is interested.
B 
any and all info. would be greatly appreciated.............I am very
interested in what was avail.B  in the way of........racing,rally,competition
parts ,etc.
B 
Cheers
B 
Mitch
1959 bn4
1966 bj8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 07:34:43 2013
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	<SNT149-W15AF8850EA5D45814805BDA5D00@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 08:59:31 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Bright Links
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks all for the advice and patience (I know this came up recently).
They say memory is one of the first three things to go - I can't remember
the other two.
One of my challenges is that I can't trust the engine as I found it.  The
last guy to do this to it only had a cold chisel, large hammer and an
adjustable spanner in his tool box. Oh, and a paint roller for applying
tons of black  Permatex.
I'll know to  proceed when the new locating plate and tensioner arrive.
Cheers,
Mike
On Dec 7, 2013 10:41 PM, "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink@msn.com> wrote:

> Maybe take a black marker and mark two links 15 places apart. Use those for
> your bright links.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> > From: e-wilkins@cox.net
> > Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2013 12:24:55 -0800
> > CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] No Bright Links
> >
> > It matters as there is slack on one side. count the links on the "tight"
> > side.
> >
> > Here's a picture you can count to match:
> > ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/healey_timing.gif
> >
> > Or clean the chain good and you may see the marked links.
> >
> > Wilko
> >
> >
> >
> > On Dec 7, 2013, at 10:13 AM, Mike Tobin wrote:
> >
> > > I don't see the bright links on the timing chain.  There's a master
> link
> > > but the rest are identical as far as I can tell.  Why does this matter?
> > > Isn't it enough to just align the keys?  Is there a link or two of
> slack
> on
> > > one side?
> > > I think this was covered recently but I can't find anything in the
> archive.
> > > mike
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink@msn.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbt71@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 08:44:20 2013
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To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, 
	"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 09:31:16 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Symptom
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The important thing here is the change from cold to hot!!
If there is air in the system it will expand when hot and expel fluid back to
the tank. The result will be the symptoms described.
Also sometimes a dry pilot bush will pick up when hot however, this usually
only occurs with a new installation.
Try bleeding the system and check that the bleed screw is on the top side of
the slave cylinder.

Michael S

-----Original Message-----
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Sent: b2013-b12-b08 7:40 AM
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Symptom

G'day



I have an odd symptom with a BJ8 clutch.



It appears to work perfectly when the air/car is cooler such as early
morning, but when it's warmer as it was this afternoon (an Australian
summer) it's sometimes difficult to engage or is notchy. At one stage this
afternoon it refused to engage at all and I could not select any gear. I
waited a minute or two and then it worked perfectly.



I suspect that it's a hydraulic and probably the slave cylinder, but there
does not appear to be any loss of fluid in the reservoir.



Any suggestions?



Hoo Roo



Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 10:09:53 2013
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 07:57:40 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: MITCHELL SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a recent discussion on the shocks: 
http://www.team.net/html/healeys/2013-10/msg00347.html




 
Rick


"Madman in
a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, December 8, 2013 8:56 AM
Subject:
[Healeys] BMC competition parts
 

Hello List,
B 
Anyone have info. on what
was available in the 1950's-60'sB 
..............pertaining to competition
parts, upgrades, etc. for Big Healeys
,etc.B  I have a pair of NOS. REAR
ADJUSTIBLE SHOCKSB  that I am trying to
ID.B  The fellow I bought these from
said he bought them in around 1960 from
bmcB  competition parts
department............they look like Armstrong but are
unmarkedB  but have
some numbers and EP stamped into them.......I have pics.
of them if anyone is
interested.
B 
any and all info. would be greatly appreciated.............I am
very
interested in what was avail.B  in the way
of........racing,rally,competition
parts ,etc.
B 
Cheers
B 
Mitch
1959 bn4
1966 bj8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 10:17:16 2013
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Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 08:06:01 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: MITCHELL SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The list of competition parts is on John Sims's incredibly useful and detailed
site.  Go here:  http://healey6.com/bulletin.htm

Look under "Other Service
Bulletins" and download "Bulletin SHA 73 Approved Optional Equipment for
Competition

 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From: MITCHELL
SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday,
December 8, 2013 8:56 AM
Subject: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
 

Hello
List,
B 
Anyone have info. on what was available in the 1950's-60'sB
..............pertaining to competition parts, upgrades, etc. for Big Healeys
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 13:09:52 2013
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 10:12:04 -0800
Cc: <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <yyv71m01T0NyJgq01yv98d>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Sebring 3000s
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The UJB cars are well documented (and recapped by heritage and Geoff Healey
and Bill Woods) to have been "built" at Healey in Warwick.

Here are 54 FAC and %^ FAC in 1963 with no recesses for the lights:
ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/54FAC_1963_Sebring.jpg

...and 54 FAC again with the shroud clearly showing a 1963 Sebring Healey with
no recess for the lights:

ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/54_fac_no_lights.jpg

The  1964 Car (one) is seen in deail at this link and did have the lights
recessed into the shroud:
www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/1146876,114/1964-Austin-Healey-3000-MK-III_pho
to.aspx#photo


On Dec 8, 2013, at 2:23 AM, J & L Armour wrote:

> Blokes
> A subject dear to me
>
> First of all what do we all mean by 'the works'?
>
> Jensen was the 'works' that Healeys were made at, less engine,gearbox and
> wheels (see the pics available on some magazines/books)
>
> MG Competition Dept later to become BMC Competition Dept. builder of
'works'
> rally cars
>
> MG Assembly line where the bits supplied by BMC that were missing when the
> assembled chassis and interior was delivered from Jensen ( six at a time on
> the back of a car transporter.)  Standard production car 'works'
>
> Rally Healeys were built at the BMC Comps Dept and owned by MG Car Co.
>
> Sebring UJB141, 142,143 and 144 were I think built at BMC Comps.
>
> The BJ.7 1963 and 1964 cars were built at the Donald Healey Motor Co
Warwick
> 'works' and owned by Healeys and fitted with a 'HEALEY' chassis plate.
>
> My car the last, a BJ.8, was identified on the HEALEY chassis plate as :
> TYPE  --    GT
>
> Aux. lights were actually the fog type lens. Bodies were the same as the
> clear lens 'driving' light
>
> The BJ.7 lights were mounted with the single rear hollow bolt standard on
> these Lucas lights and the shroud had a recessed bowl to recess the body of
> the light.
> My BJ.8 has the same light but it is mounted direct to the shroud without
> the recess.
>
> Remember that these Sebring cars were built as long distance, lightweight
> circuit racers. I think DAC953C is just on the tonne in weight.  No wood
> dash or centre console, no door window glass or interior door trim.  At
> least the 1963 & 64 cars were without overdrive but DAC953C has it although
> Geoff Healey could not remember if that was the case for Sebring 12 Hours
>
> I am pleased to say that I have had DAC953C since 1977 when I rang a USAF
> Major in London and he sent the car out from Mountain Home Idaho.  In those
> days there was virtually nothing in print about these cars. Probably as
they
> were not part of the BMC publicity chain as much as other brands in the
> group. One of the 1963 cars was used widely in a Champion spark plug advert
> in the motoring press of the day.
>
> Sorry about the lecture.
> Joe
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 15:05:20 2013
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References: <52a482c0.425c320a.562d.7cb3@mx.google.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 16:14:49 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Symptom
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

When I had this problem it turned out to be that the oil in the tranny was
low.

Bob Johnson
On Dec 8, 2013 10:41 AM, "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:

> The important thing here is the change from cold to hot!!
> If there is air in the system it will expand when hot and expel fluid back
> to
> the tank. The result will be the symptoms described.
> Also sometimes a dry pilot bush will pick up when hot however, this usually
> only occurs with a new installation.
> Try bleeding the system and check that the bleed screw is on the top side
> of
> the slave cylinder.
>
> Michael S
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
> Sent: b 2013-b 12-b 08 7:40 AM
> To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Symptom
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> I have an odd symptom with a BJ8 clutch.
>
>
>
> It appears to work perfectly when the air/car is cooler such as early
> morning, but when it's warmer as it was this afternoon (an Australian
> summer) it's sometimes difficult to engage or is notchy. At one stage this
> afternoon it refused to engage at all and I could not select any gear. I
> waited a minute or two and then it worked perfectly.
>
>
>
> I suspect that it's a hydraulic and probably the slave cylinder, but there
> does not appear to be any loss of fluid in the reservoir.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 16:18:15 2013
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	<0MXI003LABIEJLF0@vms173017.mailsrvcs.net> for healeys@autox.team.net; 
	Sun, 08 Dec 2013 15:25:27 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'HealeyRick'" <healeyrick@yahoo.com>, "'MITCHELL SIMMON'"
	<dayton21@comcast.net>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1173053614.12232799.1386510291181.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<1910473259.12239473.1386510995678.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<1386518761.81279.YahooMailNeo@web124702.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2013 16:25:25 -0500
Thread-index: AQI2VlDu1F7qmGRyHU9AVHNTpK008QJaxNqeAmiGbECZVfBTAA==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And thanks for putting the apostrophe in my name in the CORRECT spot! 

I am in the process of validating all of the links. Should take me another
day or two. If anyone sees an error, or non-working link, please let me
know.


John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 11:06 AM
To: MITCHELL SIMMON; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC competition parts

The list of competition parts is on John Sims's incredibly useful and
detailed site.  Go here:  http://healey6.com/bulletin.htm

Look under "Other Service
Bulletins" and download "Bulletin SHA 73 Approved Optional Equipment for
Competition

 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo


________________________________
 From: MITCHELL
SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday,
December 8, 2013 8:56 AM
Subject: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
 

Hello
List,
B 
Anyone have info. on what was available in the 1950's-60'sB
..............pertaining to competition parts, upgrades, etc. for Big
Healeys
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec  8 23:33:40 2013
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	<CAJTyXLTmOzw=8nNUOweRkUqVFgHv9aOHV99QETtnMfyrgMzQkw@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 07:30:24 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Symptom
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Check the clutch arm operation cold and hot. If it is moving the same
amount, then it is not hidraulics. Low transmission oil level or not
suitable oil can cause the same symptoms.

Gergo


2013/12/8 Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>

> When I had this problem it turned out to be that the oil in the tranny was
> low.
>
> Bob Johnson
> On Dec 8, 2013 10:41 AM, "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > The important thing here is the change from cold to hot!!
> > If there is air in the system it will expand when hot and expel fluid
> back
> > to
> > the tank. The result will be the symptoms described.
> > Also sometimes a dry pilot bush will pick up when hot however, this
> usually
> > only occurs with a new installation.
> > Try bleeding the system and check that the bleed screw is on the top side
> > of
> > the slave cylinder.
> >
> > Michael S
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
> > Sent: b 2013-b 12-b 08 7:40 AM
> > To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Symptom
> >
> > G'day
> >
> >
> >
> > I have an odd symptom with a BJ8 clutch.
> >
> >
> >
> > It appears to work perfectly when the air/car is cooler such as early
> > morning, but when it's warmer as it was this afternoon (an Australian
> > summer) it's sometimes difficult to engage or is notchy. At one stage
> this
> > afternoon it refused to engage at all and I could not select any gear. I
> > waited a minute or two and then it worked perfectly.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suspect that it's a hydraulic and probably the slave cylinder, but
> there
> > does not appear to be any loss of fluid in the reservoir.
> >
> >
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> >
> >
> > Hoo Roo
> >
> >
> >
> > Patrick Quinn
> >
> > Blue Mountains, Australia
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
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> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
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> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bjsbj8@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 02:45:30 2013
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Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2013 09:39:11 +0000
From: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
Organization: Summa Ventures Ltd
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1173053614.12232799.1386510291181.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<1910473259.12239473.1386510995678.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<1386518761.81279.YahooMailNeo@web124702.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<007a01cef45c$033ab230$09b01690$@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mitchell,

There are lists of parts as used in works cars in "The Works Big Healeys",
although most is for Rally cars.

It really depends whether you mean track or rally by competition. There's a lot
of overlap. But obviously a car that was built to do the Alpine or the Lihge
would be differently configured from one for Sebring or Le Mans.

Peter

On 08/12/2013 21:25, John Sims wrote:
> And thanks for putting the apostrophe in my name in the CORRECT spot! 
> 
> I am in the process of validating all of the links. Should take me another
> day or two. If anyone sees an error, or non-working link, please let me
> know.
> 
> 
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
> 
> www.healey6.com
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of HealeyRick
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2013 11:06 AM
> To: MITCHELL SIMMON; healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
> 
> The list of competition parts is on John Sims's incredibly useful and
> detailed site.  Go here:  http://healey6.com/bulletin.htm
> 
> Look under "Other Service
> Bulletins" and download "Bulletin SHA 73 Approved Optional Equipment for
> Competition
> 
>  
> Rick
> 
> 
> "Madman in a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
> http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> 
> 
> ________________________________
>  From: MITCHELL
> SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday,
> December 8, 2013 8:56 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
>  
> 
> Hello
> List,
> B 
> Anyone have info. on what was available in the 1950's-60'sB
> ..............pertaining to competition parts, upgrades, etc. for Big
> Healeys
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig@summaventures.com
> 
> 

-- 

===========================================================
Dr Peter Dzwig				
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 09:01:20 2013
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	Mon, 09 Dec 2013 08:55:21 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'MITCHELL SIMMON'" <dayton21@comcast.net>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1173053614.12232799.1386510291181.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<1910473259.12239473.1386510995678.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<1386518761.81279.YahooMailNeo@web124702.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2013 09:55:20 -0500
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Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I might add that there is a whole section on Competition in the Technical
page of my site. Most articles are copies of "period" pieces so you might
find some useful information there. I just checkd the links and all work.
Some of the files are VERY large.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


________________________________
 From: MITCHELL
SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday,
December 8, 2013 8:56 AM
Subject: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
 

Hello
List,
B
Anyone have info. on what was available in the 1950's-60'sB
..............pertaining to competition parts, upgrades, etc. for Big
Healeys
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 10:37:59 2013
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	Mon, 09 Dec 2013 11:10:20 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2013 12:10:19 -0500
Thread-index: Ac71AWuq3N2YpwxAQYa1q1zRp0vMQw==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Some time ago someone on the list gave me instructions on Static timing of
an engine referencing a page on a Mindspring web site. That site is kaput.
Can that person please contact me and give me a new link/ thanks.

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

www.healey6.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 17:49:48 2013
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 15:47:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

----Forwarded message----
From: jackson_krall@yahoo.com
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Dec 8, 2013 12:45 PM EST
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's

Also...
Those Lucas lamps were/are(?) available with either bottom or rear mounting as on FAC.
Best
JK


------------------------------
On Fri, Dec 6, 2013 8:02 PM EST Wilko2 wrote:

>I like the earlier cars like the UJB group. They were mounted under the front
>similar to the rally cars, but less hardware.
>
>The later cars FAC were just in front of the shroud. small hole through for
>wires.
>
>
>
>On Dec 6, 2013, at 1:25 PM, Andy wrote:
>
> Looking at various pictures of the Works cars which ran at Sebring such as
> the FAC's and 767 KNX, their fixing of the front spot lights is different
>to
> that seen on the rally cars.  With the Sebring cars the front spots look to
> be mounted directly to the front shroud where-as on the rally cars the
>front
> spots are generally mounted on a bracket which comes under the front
> valance.
>
>
>
> Focusing on the Sebring cars, is the front valance / shroud dished to
>accept
> the back of the spots or are they just fixed through a hole to a fixing
> point behind?  Any details on how the fixing was done would be most
>welcome.
> ___________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec  9 21:04:02 2013
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From: Frank Magnusson <fmags@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2013 20:32:53 -0600
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch symptom
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

hi Patrick,  when you have this problem, does the clutch pedal move or can you
not push in on the pedal?  I had  a similar problem on my BJ8 for years until
someone suggested it was the clutch hose collapsing on itself.  I replaced
that hose and problem solved.  It was quite awhile ago but if I remember
right, the clutch pedal would not budge at all and I could not select any
gear.  Once it cooled down it worked fine.  Only happened when it was hot.

Frank



Sent from my iPad
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	Tue, 10 Dec 2013 10:59:17 GMT
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 10:59:17 +0000 (GMT)
From: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc: StephenCuss <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Cylinder Head issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Can anybody please tell me how they overcome the lack of an oil gun to service
the nipples on the various points, as I do not have the original Tecalmit tool
I a based in the UK, also has anybody with a BN1 come across the issue of the
oil feed nozzle in the cylinder head being reduced by using solder , and if so
why? I have just had the original head refitted with hardened values and seats
for unleaded petrol. On inspection the original nozzle has had the outlet
restricted to about 30% of original hole diameter.Thanks in advance for any
help with these issues.

Stephen
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 05:20:31 2013
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 11:29:16 +0000
From: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
Organization: Summa Ventures Ltd
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: dayton21@comcast.net
Cc: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Shocks
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mitch...try here


I don't think that yours are Armstrongs though: they have APco stamped on them.

ebay has these as a pair of re-manufactured Armstrongs:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Austin-Healey-Armstrong-Shock-Absorbers-2-/261348435090

which don't look like yours.

AP was a parts manufacturer in the 50s and 60s.

This appears to be what happened to AP:

http://www.kta-kosovo.org/soediv/oi-ShockAbsorbers.pdf

but I can't trace how it got there (Kosovo) - but...

http://www.ap-sportsuspensions.com/

I don't think that they manufacture the old parts these days


The best that I can find are here:

<http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/english-cars/austin-healey/austin-healey-bn1-bj8/rear-suspension/rear-suspension-bn1-to-bj8-26704.html>

or

http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/SHOCK-ABSORBER---REAR---LH--30--UPRATED--id3778.aspx

and http://www.ahead4healeys.co.uk/SUSPENSION---REAR--SR--ct191.aspx and take
your pick

I don't know these guys but I have bought from SC on a number of occasions.


Peter
-- 

===========================================================
Dr Peter Dzwig				
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 06:31:59 2013
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 12:21:26 +0000
References: <1386673157.33621.YahooMailNeo@web87404.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Cylinder Head issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Any normal grease gun should work fine.

Derek
On 10 Dec 2013, at 10:59, STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com> wrote:

> Can anybody please tell me how they overcome the lack of an oil gun to
service
> the nipples on the various points, as I do not have the original Tecalmit
tool
> I a based in the UK, also has anybody with a BN1 come across the issue of
the
> oil feed nozzle in the cylinder head being reduced by using solder , and if
so
> why? I have just had the original head refitted with hardened values and
seats
> for unleaded petrol. On inspection the original nozzle has had the outlet
> restricted to about 30% of original hole diameter.Thanks in advance for any
> help with these issues.
>
> Stephen
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 06:35:29 2013
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	Tue, 10 Dec 2013 06:41:37 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Michael MacLean'" <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
References: <004901cef501$8a800060$9f800120$@verizon.net>
	<1386655768.78178.YahooMailNeo@web181106.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 07:41:35 -0500
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Content-language: en-us
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Static Timing
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks. Tried that and couldn't find it.

 

John 

 

From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 1:09 AM
To: John Sims; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Static Timing

 

John,
     If you still have the old web address, just use the Wayback Machine
(http://archive.org/web/web.php).  You can access web pages long gone from
today's web.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 AN5

 

 


  _____  


From: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, December 9, 2013 9:10 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Static Timing


Some time ago someone on the list gave me instructions on Static timing of
an engine referencing a page on a Mindspring web site. That site is kaput.
Can that person please contact me and give me a new link/ thanks.



John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ



www.healey6.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 08:44:45 2013
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 20:29:48 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Cylinder Head issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

that should be a clean hole.


On Tue, Dec 10, 2013 at 6:59 PM, STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com
> wrote:

> Can anybody please tell me how they overcome the lack of an oil gun to
> service
> the nipples on the various points, as I do not have the original Tecalmit
> tool
> I a based in the UK, also has anybody with a BN1 come across the issue of
> the
> oil feed nozzle in the cylinder head being reduced by using solder , and
> if so
> why? I have just had the original head refitted with hardened values and
> seats
> for unleaded petrol. On inspection the original nozzle has had the outlet
> restricted to about 30% of original hole diameter.Thanks in advance for any
> help with these issues.
>
> Stephen
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 09:35:42 2013
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 09:27:27 -0600
To: MITCHELL SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>,healeys@autox.team.net
From: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
  t>
References: <1173053614.12232799.1386510291181.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<1910473259.12239473.1386510995678.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mitch,
         There is a part number stamped on the bottom edge of one of 
the mounting bosses.  If they were for a Healey, and if they were 
bought in 1960-ish, the part number will read 6076 then LH or 
RH.  And if they need a refurb, I know a guy ;-)
         Armstrong cataloged them as 6076LH-ADJ  and I can send a 
scan of the page.

         Peter C
===
At 07:56 AM 12/8/2013, you wrote:
>Hello List,
>B
>Anyone have info. on what was available in the 1950's-60'sB
>..............pertaining to competition parts, upgrades, etc. for Big Healeys
>,etc.B  I have a pair of NOS. REAR ADJUSTIBLE SHOCKSB  that I am trying to
>ID.B  The fellow I bought these from said he bought them in around 1960 from
>bmcB  competition parts department............they look like Armstrong but are
>unmarkedB  but have some numbers and EP stamped into them.......I have pics.
>of them if anyone is interested.
>B
>any and all info. would be greatly appreciated.............I am very
>interested in what was avail.B  in the way of........racing,rally,competition
>parts ,etc.
>B
>Cheers
>B
>Mitch
>1959 bn4
>1966 bj8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 10:09:05 2013
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 11:32:00 +0000
From: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
Organization: Summa Ventures Ltd
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.1.1
To: MITCHELL SIMMON <dayton21@comcast.net>,  Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <52A5B48D.5090502@summaventures.com>
	<470040986.13089914.1386602426165.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Subject: [Healeys] ...Healey Comp parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Should have added that you should have added that you can click on the SC parts
diagram and zoom in.

Peter

On 09/12/2013 15:20, MITCHELL SIMMON wrote:
> Peter.................. thanks
> see pic. of shocks I am trying to I.D.
>  
>  
> Mitch
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Peter Dzwig" <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
> *To: *dayton21@comcast.net
> *Sent: *Monday, December 9, 2013 7:16:13 AM
> *Subject: *Healey Comp parts
> 
> Mitchell,
> 
> I suggest that you look at
> 
> http://www.race-cars.com/carsold/austinhl/a76686/a76686ss.htm
> 
> and follow the links for a complete spec of UJB144 as raced at Sebring in 1960
> 
> Peter Dzwig
> 
> -- 
> 
> ===========================================================
> Dr Peter Dzwig                                
> 
> 

-- 

===========================================================
Dr Peter Dzwig				
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 10:42:20 2013
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 16:42:58 +0000
From: Peter Dzwig <pdzwig@summaventures.com>
Organization: Summa Ventures Ltd
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1173053614.12232799.1386510291181.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<1910473259.12239473.1386510995678.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<1386518260.64513.YahooMailNeo@web124701.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

As Mitch says, they aren't marked as Armstrong.

They bear the letters "AP Co". AP were a parts company operating in the UK in
the 50s, 60s and until??? I have a feeling - and it is ONLY a dim recollection -
that they sold into the aftermarket. As far as I can find out it re-emerged in
Pristina in the early 2000s as a "socially owned" organisation. The company
still exists as a manufacturers of suspension kits for "hot" cars hatchbacks etc
etc in Germany.

Anyone know anything else about AP and what happened to them?

Peter

On 08/12/2013 15:57, HealeyRick wrote:
> Here's a recent discussion on the shocks: 
> http://www.team.net/html/healeys/2013-10/msg00347.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Rick
> 
> 
> "Madman in
> a death machine"
> Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> To: healeys@autox.team.net 
> Sent: Sunday, December 8, 2013 8:56 AM
> Subject:
> [Healeys] BMC competition parts
>  
> 
> Hello List,
> B 
> Anyone have info. on what
> was available in the 1950's-60'sB 
> ..............pertaining to competition
> parts, upgrades, etc. for Big Healeys
> ,etc.B  I have a pair of NOS. REAR
> ADJUSTIBLE SHOCKSB  that I am trying to
> ID.B  The fellow I bought these from
> said he bought them in around 1960 from
> bmcB  competition parts
> department............they look like Armstrong but are
> unmarkedB  but have
> some numbers and EP stamped into them.......I have pics.
> of them if anyone is
> interested.
> B 
> any and all info. would be greatly appreciated.............I am
> very
> interested in what was avail.B  in the way
> of........racing,rally,competition
> parts ,etc.
> B 
> Cheers
> B 
> Mitch
> 1959 bn4
> 1966 bj8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig@summaventures.com
> 
> 

-- 

===========================================================
Dr Peter Dzwig				
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 10:46:14 2013
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To: "STEPHEN CUSS" <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>,
	"healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?BN1_Cylinder_Head_issues?=
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_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 12:03:32 2013
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From: "Bob Yule" <autofarm@xplornet.ca>
To: "'STEPHEN CUSS'" <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1386673157.33621.YahooMailNeo@web87404.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 13:09:28 -0500
Thread-index: Ac71nG1u1wrDPo7MRKmM/mY1oIRZpgANgQsQ
Content-language: en-ca
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Cylinder Head issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

	Stephen, the oil hole is soldered partly to restrict the oil flow to
the rockershaft bushings.  This was quite common once the shaft and/or
bushings became worn because it would allow too much oil to accumulate on
top of the head and consequently leak from the rocker cover gasket and oil
fill hole. It would also give a raised oil pressure reading on the gauge.

	Cheers...Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of STEPHEN CUSS
Sent: December-10-13 5:59 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Cc: StephenCuss
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Cylinder Head issues

Can anybody please tell me how they overcome the lack of an oil gun to
service the nipples on the various points, as I do not have the original
Tecalmit tool I a based in the UK, also has anybody with a BN1 come across
the issue of the oil feed nozzle in the cylinder head being reduced by using
solder , and if so why? I have just had the original head refitted with
hardened values and seats for unleaded petrol. On inspection the original
nozzle has had the outlet restricted to about 30% of original hole
diameter.Thanks in advance for any help with these issues.

Stephen
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm@xplornet.ca
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 12:18:40 2013
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 13:50:39 2013
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Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 13:16:14 -0600
To: pdzwig@summaventures.com,Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
References: <1173053614.12232799.1386510291181.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC competition parts
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

AP could be the marks of Armstrong Patents   which is the real name 
of the shock company.

Mitch, send me a picture.  I've seen nearly every lever shock there is.

         Peter C
=====
At 10:42 AM 12/10/2013, Peter Dzwig wrote:
>As Mitch says, they aren't marked as Armstrong.
>
>They bear the letters "AP Co". AP were a parts company operating in the UK in
>the 50s, 60s and until??? I have a feeling - and it is ONLY a dim 
>recollection -
>that they sold into the aftermarket. As far as I can find out it re-emerged in
>Pristina in the early 2000s as a "socially owned" organisation. The company
>still exists as a manufacturers of suspension kits for "hot" cars 
>hatchbacks etc
>etc in Germany.
>
>Anyone know anything else about AP and what happened to them?
>
>Peter
>
>On 08/12/2013 15:57, HealeyRick wrote:
> > Here's a recent discussion on the shocks:
> > http://www.team.net/html/healeys/2013-10/msg00347.html
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > "Madman in
> > a death machine"
> > Follow My Nasty Boy Build:  http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
> > To: healeys@autox.team.net
> > Sent: Sunday, December 8, 2013 8:56 AM
> > Subject:
> > [Healeys] BMC competition parts
> >
> >
> > Hello List,
> > B
> > Anyone have info. on what
> > was available in the 1950's-60'sB
> > ..............pertaining to competition
> > parts, upgrades, etc. for Big Healeys
> > ,etc.B  I have a pair of NOS. REAR
> > ADJUSTIBLE SHOCKSB  that I am trying to
> > ID.B  The fellow I bought these from
> > said he bought them in around 1960 from
> > bmcB  competition parts
> > department............they look like Armstrong but are
> > unmarkedB  but have
> > some numbers and EP stamped into them.......I have pics.
> > of them if anyone is
> > interested.
> > B
> > any and all info. would be greatly appreciated.............I am
> > very
> > interested in what was avail.B  in the way
> > of........racing,rally,competition
> > parts ,etc.
> > B
> > Cheers
> > B
> > Mitch
> > 1959 bn4
> > 1966 bj8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig@summaventures.com
> >
> >
>
>--
>
>===========================================================
>Dr Peter Dzwig
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter@nosimport.com
>
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 18:01:22 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:30:57 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Bob Yule - Autofarm - CA <bob@autofarm.net>
Cc: Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Cylinder Head issues
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Stephen -

I'd defer to Bob Yule on this.  Maybe I got a little confused on which hole
you were talking about.

I'm sorry if I screwed it up for you.  Bob is right, too much oil up there
can cause oil leakage and oil burning problems.

If your rockers are tight with new bushings, it shouldn't be a problem, but
the restriction is useful as it all wears in.

Alan

Best,

Alan


On Wed, Dec 11, 2013 at 2:09 AM, Bob Yule <autofarm@xplornet.ca> wrote:

>         Stephen, the oil hole is soldered partly to restrict the oil flow
> to
> the rockershaft bushings.  This was quite common once the shaft and/or
> bushings became worn because it would allow too much oil to accumulate on
> top of the head and consequently leak from the rocker cover gasket and oil
> fill hole. It would also give a raised oil pressure reading on the gauge.
>
>         Cheers...Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of STEPHEN CUSS
> Sent: December-10-13 5:59 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Cc: StephenCuss
> Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Cylinder Head issues
>
> Can anybody please tell me how they overcome the lack of an oil gun to
> service the nipples on the various points, as I do not have the original
> Tecalmit tool I a based in the UK, also has anybody with a BN1 come across
> the issue of the oil feed nozzle in the cylinder head being reduced by
> using
> solder , and if so why? I have just had the original head refitted with
> hardened values and seats for unleaded petrol. On inspection the original
> nozzle has had the outlet restricted to about 30% of original hole
> diameter.Thanks in advance for any help with these issues.
>
> Stephen
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm@xplornet.ca
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 18:22:34 2013
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From: Eric Wilkins <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 16:55:06 -0800
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] ProRace Harmonic Balancer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Is anyone using the ProRace balancer, and how well does it line up with the
other pulleys in the car?

Mine seems to be over a quarter of an inch too far back...

Thanks,
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 18:52:56 2013
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 18:54:20 2013
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 11:35:41 -0500
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Subject: [Healeys] John New
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John, Please contact me off list. 

Thanks

 

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

www.healey6.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 20:42:16 2013
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From: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 19:10:23 -0800
To: Eric Wilkins <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ProRace Harmonic Balancer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've installed 2 and both appear to be within reasonable tolerance,  haven't
toasted a belt or a generator yet.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 10, 2013, at 4:55 PM, Eric Wilkins <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Is anyone using the ProRace balancer, and how well does it line up with the
> other pulleys in the car?
>
> Mine seems to be over a quarter of an inch too far back...
>
> Thanks,
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpaynepbr@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 21:20:40 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2013 19:17:30 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] looking for info on a special Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://britishcarspecialists.com/PhotoAlbums/album_1265242604/
I helped with some of the mechanicals on this car in the late 1970s @
Austin Healey Enterprises. (Russ, If you are on the list) Do you know where
it is today? My memory says owner's name was John??? He built it as a
tribute to his son...
Just wondering if its still around.
Cheers all
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 10 21:23:17 2013
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Eric Wilkins'" <e-wilkins@cox.net>, "'Healey List'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <2C8AFD46-0CAB-4733-A347-F73EF8BC8867@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 12:07:12 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac72Dx9GFAkvkB9iTJ29Cnhy95BKCAABkPdQ
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ProRace Harmonic Balancer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Eric
I have one of these on my BT7.Lines up perfectly. Huge effort to fit and
remove though (huge hammer and strong puller required).
You may need a spacer behind yours
Cheers
John Rowe
Qld Australia
BN1 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Eric Wilkins
Sent: Wednesday, 11 December 2013 10:55 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] ProRace Harmonic Balancer

Is anyone using the ProRace balancer, and how well does it line up with the
other pulleys in the car?

Mine seems to be over a quarter of an inch too far back...

Thanks,
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john@jtkarowe.com.au
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 01:15:40 2013
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References: <CACPMnYpYHha=M20QRnbTonoqkf64fgN8SHx-obhi8--G8EKHHQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:34:01 +0100
From: Austin Healey <pajtamuvek@gmail.com>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] looking for info on a special Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Not my cup of tea, but wow! enormous amount of work was put in that machine.

Gergo




2013/12/11 I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>

> http://britishcarspecialists.com/PhotoAlbums/album_1265242604/
> I helped with some of the mechanicals on this car in the late 1970s @
> Austin Healey Enterprises. (Russ, If you are on the list) Do you know where
> it is today? My memory says owner's name was John??? He built it as a
> tribute to his son...
> Just wondering if its still around.
> Cheers all
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
>    _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pajtamuvek@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 02:09:27 2013
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	11 Dec 2013 08:55:19 +0000
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CACPMnYpYHha=M20QRnbTonoqkf64fgN8SHx-obhi8--G8EKHHQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 03:54:51 -0500
Thread-Index: Ac72KAQ085U8TfWsTF6X8Yl9TeVtOwAJg12w
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] looking for info on a special Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The tooled leather interior rang a bell with me.  This car was the subject
of a thread on the list in 2009:
http://tinyurl.com/m69q768

Too bad the photo of the engine bay shows the VIN plate, but not clearly
enough to read.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 10:18 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] looking for info on a special Healey

http://britishcarspecialists.com/PhotoAlbums/album_1265242604/
I helped with some of the mechanicals on this car in the late 1970s @ Austin
Healey Enterprises. (Russ, If you are on the list) Do you know where it is
today? My memory says owner's name was John??? He built it as a tribute to
his son...
Just wondering if its still around.
Cheers all
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 03:21:53 2013
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test, test, test
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 05:46:18 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 13:37:58 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] test
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Loud & clear.
Kees Oudesluijs

josef-eckert@t-online.de schreef op 11-12-2013 13:12:
> test, test, test
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 05:58:09 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 7:49:34 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: 'Eric Wilkins' <e-wilkins@cox.net>, John Rowe
	<john@jtkarowe.com.au>,  'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ProRace Harmonic Balancer
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

how does this differ from a stock one?

Tom
---- John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au> wrote: 

=============
Hi Eric
I have one of these on my BT7.Lines up perfectly. Huge effort to fit and
remove though (huge hammer and strong puller required).
You may need a spacer behind yours
Cheers
John Rowe
Qld Australia
BN1 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Eric Wilkins
Sent: Wednesday, 11 December 2013 10:55 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] ProRace Harmonic Balancer

Is anyone using the ProRace balancer, and how well does it line up with the
other pulleys in the car?

Mine seems to be over a quarter of an inch too far back...

Thanks,
$12.75
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5X5


On 12/11/2013 4:37 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> Loud & clear.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> josef-eckert@t-online.de schreef op 11-12-2013 13:12:
>> test, test, test
>> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 06:23:00 2013
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From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:17:19 -0500
To: "healeys@autox.team.net Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Not Healey related
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This cannot be good news for our friends down under:

http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2013-12-11/gm-holden-to-stop-auto-manufacturing
-in-australia-in-2017.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 06:34:00 2013
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From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:29:55 -0500
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To: "healeys@autox.team.net Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Not Healey related
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(Somewhere the link was chopped in two, try this one)


This cannot be good news for our friends down under:

http://tinyurl.com/kjyjqvx
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 08:22:13 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:00:49 -0600
To: Healey <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Peter Caldwell <peter@nosimport.com>
References: <1173053614.12232799.1386510291181.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BMC competition parts SHOCKS
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mitch did send me pictures.  They ARE Armstrong for sure.  I sent him 
a pic of a very similar shock for an MGB. The letters APCo appear on 
several hundred Armstrong shock covers we have here in house at the 
moment.  Armstrong Patents Co. Ltd being the correct name of the 
company in Beverly who manufactured lever shock absorbers, and many 
other hydraulic components.

We did 2 sets of these for a customer a number of years ago.   Here's 
what's interesting to us. I apologize if you've heard this before.

The early Healeys, BN1 through early BJ8, used the small bodied 
shocks part number 6076 designated DAS9 and having the mounting bolts 
3-5/16" on center.

The later BJ8s used a larger body shock part number 8188 designated 
DAS10 having mounting bolts on 4" centers.

The tapered hole in the arm on the early shocks 6076 has the larger 
diameter away from the body of the shock, such that the link would be 
inserted outboard of the shock. (very unusual configuration compared 
to most other Armstrong shocks)

The tapered hole for the larger 8188 is larger on the side of the arm 
closest to the shock body as the link would be inserted on the 
opposite side from the early shock.

The 100-S shocks that we've done, (Armstrong part number 7598 or 
6189-ADJ) both adjustable and non-adjustable, have the larger DAS10 
body casting BUT have the tapered hole facing as the early DAS9 
shock. THAT is what makes them different, and unlike almost any other 
Armstrong shock.

     If I recall, someone posted that the shock mounting holes were 
re-drilled and I believe reenforced on the race cars. They would have 
to have been re-drilled for the bolt spacing difference.

I suspect that the reason the casting of Mitch's adjustable shocks 
don't have Armstrong embossed is because they are a  very early 
iteration of what would be later marketed as Armstrong's "Adjustable 
22" series of lever shocks. I have the original literature and design 
data publication book from Armstrong, and some NOS examples.

Here is a link to an article in Safety Fast from August 1965 that 
describes the adjustable shock, and gives specific part numbers for 
the Healey range.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/literature/pdf/safety_fast_aug65_shocks.pdf

I'd be very happy to discuss this further. I have lots of information.

Peter Caldwell

----------------------------------------

At 01:16 PM 12/10/2013, Peter Caldwell wrote:
>AP could be the marks of Armstrong Patents   which is the real name 
>of the shock company.
>
>Mitch, send me a picture.  I've seen nearly every lever shock there is.
>
>         Peter C
>=====
>At 10:42 AM 12/10/2013, Peter Dzwig wrote:
>>As Mitch says, they aren't marked as Armstrong.
>>
>>They bear the letters "AP Co". AP were a parts company operating in the UK in
>>the 50s, 60s and until??? I have a feeling - and it is ONLY a dim 
>>recollection -
>>that they sold into the aftermarket. As far as I can find out it 
>>re-emerged in
>>Pristina in the early 2000s as a "socially owned" organisation. The company
>>still exists as a manufacturers of suspension kits for "hot" cars 
>>hatchbacks etc
>>etc in Germany.
>>
>>Anyone know anything else about AP and what happened to them?
>>
>>Peter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 09:44:24 2013
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From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000001cef615$b59ca090$20d5e1b0$@com.au> <0Cvj1n01D0NyJgq01CvkMS> 
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 08:08:06 -0800
Thread-Index: AQFnuH3IjDbTNqPOkX+0rmhFEFiZBAG0inZIAr2yDnaa+hM9wA==
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] ProRace Harmonic Balancer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What's the difference?


1) it isn't cracked at the woodruff key
2) it doesn't break, causing the dog nut to come off and destroy your
freshly re-cored radiator and then bounce into the underside of your freshly
painted bonnet necessitating bodywork and a respray.

It's not a cast piece, it's milled billet.
There is a photo on the Moss website.
It has timing marks machined in.
It looks really trick and shiny.

I'd recommend installing it on a cold day - it requires you to heat it up
(boiling water) prior to install, but I have found that the temp
differential isn't quite enough in the summer in NV.  



Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 10:10:55 2013
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 11:52:39 -0500 (EST)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1386780760;
	bh=Z4GRInQbkmy1jym6P+FWH8KMDoWqAo2wFWoJwh8bVIc=;
	h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type;
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Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey 53 Cadillac
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just got this from a Hagerty email in their "This Car Matters" series and  
thought it interesting enough that the list would get a kick out of it. Not 
only  is the car truly one of a kind, but the lady describing it knows her 
cars! Short  video and very, very cool. Enjoy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6AUatsoEi8&utm_source=ExactTarget&utm_mediu
m=email&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=Hagerty%20Weekly%20News%2012-11-
2013
 
And I know it's a long link, but if you cut and paste and take out all of  
the spaces, it will work and it's worth it. And then on better thought, I  
remembered the link to the tiny url, so here you go:
 
http://tinyurl.com/otdu965  




Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: "Andy" <sneddon@xsmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:02:17 -0000
Thread-index: Ac72kr94m2AFBBzPS+iqQT8N6P0vHA==
Content-language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

All,

 

Many thanks for all of the excellent responses in respect to whether the
front shrouds were "dished" or not for the auxiliary lights.

 

Keeping with the Sebring theme, let me ask a couple more questions:

 

a.        Looking at some engine bay pictures, specifically those posted on
the Bonhams site re the sale of 767KNX
(http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/20994/lot/141/), I am trying to identify
the various components on the bulkhead area.  From Left to right there
appears to be a RB310 Voltage Regulator, two SF4 fuse boxes and what looks
like a relay?  Does anyone know what this last component is ? 

 

b.      Why did these later cars use a RB310 voltage regulator, rather than
the RB106 which was on the production cars till the RB340 came along with
the MkIII?

 

Andy
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 11:37:14 2013
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 09:54:34 -0800
References: <000001cef615$b59ca090$20d5e1b0$@com.au>
	<0Cvj1n01D0NyJgq01CvkMS>  <0Ggu1n02y0NyJgq01GgxYJ>
To: Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ProRace Harmonic Balancer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a pic:

ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/prorace_balancer.jpg

Thanks for the info guys. I can't imagine why mine would be so far out of
alignment. Are the pulley locations very different on the later 1/2" belt
water pumps?

Thanks,
Rick

On Dec 11, 2013, at 8:08 AM, Jonas Payne wrote:

> What's the difference?
>
>
> 1) it isn't cracked at the woodruff key
> 2) it doesn't break, causing the dog nut to come off and destroy your
> freshly re-cored radiator and then bounce into the underside of your
freshly
> painted bonnet necessitating bodywork and a respray.
>
> It's not a cast piece, it's milled billet.
> There is a photo on the Moss website.
> It has timing marks machined in.
> It looks really trick and shiny.
>
> I'd recommend installing it on a cold day - it requires you to heat it up
> (boiling water) prior to install, but I have found that the temp
> differential isn't quite enough in the summer in NV.
>
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting Services, LLC
> 702.882.6711
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 12:26:23 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd guess that the last component is the relay used for the auxiliary lights
that you were asking about.



>
>
> a.        Looking at some engine bay pictures, specifically those posted on
> the Bonhams site re the sale of 767KNX
> (http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/20994/lot/141/), I am trying to identify
> the various components on the bulkhead area.  From Left to right there
> appears to be a RB310 Voltage Regulator, two SF4 fuse boxes and what looks
> like a relay?  Does anyone know what this last component is ?
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 12:30:48 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 13:39:44 -0500 (EST)
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	s=20121107; t=1386787186;
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Andy
a. Overdrive relay
b. RB106 is a two bobbin (coil) regulator. RB310 and 340 are three coil. Not
exactly sure when RB340 was introduced but the 310 can be easily adjusted with
a screw while the 340 uses a cam adjuster. Suspect that the Donald Healey lads
pulled a RB310 off an old Bentley and bumped the generator out put for the
driving lights.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Andy <sneddon@xsmail.com>

All,
Many thanks for all of the excellent responses in respect to whether the
ront shrouds were "dished" or not for the auxiliary lights.

eeping with the Sebring theme, let me ask a couple more questions:

.        Looking at some engine bay pictures, specifically those posted on
he Bonhams site re the sale of 767KNX
http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/20994/lot/141/), I am trying to identify
he various components on the bulkhead area.  From Left to right there
ppears to be a RB310 Voltage Regulator, two SF4 fuse boxes and what looks
ike a relay?  Does anyone know what this last component is ?
b.      Why did these later cars use a RB310 voltage regulator, rather than
he RB106 which was on the production cars till the RB340 came along with
he MkIII?
Andy
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 13:11:19 2013
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 19:00:09 +0000
References: <000001cef615$b59ca090$20d5e1b0$@com.au>
	<0Cvj1n01D0NyJgq01CvkMS>  <007f01cef68b$2e01a5b0$8a04f110$@cox.net>
To: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] ProRace Harmonic Balancer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'll second that.

It happened to one of our hill climbers. About 100 yards after the start the
standard part exploded into a thousand pieces and totally destroyed the shroud
bonnet and radiator. Nasty!

Derek
On 11 Dec 2013, at 16:08, "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net> wrote:

> What's the difference?
>
>
> 1) it isn't cracked at the woodruff key
> 2) it doesn't break, causing the dog nut to come off and destroy your
> freshly re-cored radiator and then bounce into the underside of your
freshly
> painted bonnet necessitating bodywork and a respray.
>
> It's not a cast piece, it's milled billet.
> There is a photo on the Moss website.
> It has timing marks machined in.
> It looks really trick and shiny.
>
> I'd recommend installing it on a cold day - it requires you to heat it up
> (boiling water) prior to install, but I have found that the temp
> differential isn't quite enough in the summer in NV.
>
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting Services, LLC
> 702.882.6711
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 15:09:59 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 16:26:58 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Water Pump Kits
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have only a few water pump kits for BJ8s left and it appears that I will
not be able to purchase any more of the bearings as the production has been
discontinued so this will probably be the last of them.
The kits are $45.65 ea + shipping and there are instructions on my
blog here<http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=994>
.

-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 11 17:57:31 2013
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <A5F3F3EDD35B4CE7ACCE259C69E5CD60@Notebook>
	<56393.RFRTWwhWQhE=.1386408215.squirrel@webmail.securepacific.net>
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 15:14:15 -0800
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mystery car for sale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have seen at least one of these.  IMHO, a very nice looking car. 
Unfortunately, it is extremely difficult to produce something as complicated 
as an automobile, especially with quality, that can even begin to compete 
with the mass-produced vehicles.  For all we complain about Detroit and 
their high-priced cookie-cutter cars, they are masters at producing them in 
large quantities at the cost they do.  All started with Henry, I guess.  And 
probably a few others, but you get the point.  All the government 
regulations don't help, either.

Mike
BN2



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <agrossman@pacific.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2013 1:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mystery car for sale


> It's an Apollo. Not a kit car. Lots of info on the net. Coachbuilt body,
> Buick 215 power.
>>http://mycarquest.com/2013/04/the-50th-anniversary-of-the-apollo-gt-a-terrific-but-nearly-forgotten-car.html<
>
> Cheers, Alan
>> Anyone know what this is? Badge appears to be a capital 'A'
>>
>>
>> http://www.autobidmaster.com/carfinder-online-auto-auctions/lot/34026963/COPA
>> RT_1963_ASSEMBLY_KITCAR_SALVAGE_CERTIFICATE_/
>>
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Peter Linn
>> Brisbane Oz
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman@pacific.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722@comcast.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 10:49:38 2013
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	4F2AEE00008F for <healeys@autox.team.net>; Thu, 12 Dec 2013 12:10:05
	-0500 (EST)
From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 12:10:05 -0500 (EST)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1386868205;
	bh=v5G6igxd2baK4TO1YSdOjizX4NkXUGycOe8Ok1Ctvfg=;
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Subject: [Healeys] Goodwood Photos, With Healeys!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a link to some photos from this years' Goodwood and as promised  
above, there are actually some Austin-Healeys in the photos! Also some pretty  
interesting variations on cars we all know, like a super slippery E-Type 
special  bodied coupe. Enjoy!
http://www.sportscardigest.com/on-track-picture-gallery-2013-goodwood-reviva
l/
 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 11:22:10 2013
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From: "Terry Lopez" <tjlopez@charter.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 09:47:19 -0600
Thread-Index: Ac73UWhMikYWZr+6S46WMCvEtafEVw==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Parcel tray sliding bolt
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am trying to locate a pair of the sliding bolts that support the parcel
tray/backrest on a BJ8 when in the down position.  Anyone out there have a
pair they want to sell or know of a supplier that has them.  I've not found
them in any of the usual parts houses.

 

Terry Lopez

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1537.JPG]
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 13:24:42 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; auth=pass (LOGIN) smtp.auth=jpaynepbr@cox.net
From: "Jonas Payne" <jpaynepbr@cox.net>
To: "'Terry Lopez'" <tjlopez@charter.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <0iHi1n01e0NyJgq01iHjgA>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 12:06:20 -0800
Thread-Index: AQJ4lnnRRzEwNG3j/LxA8h7aeumJWpj9vjVQ
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Parcel tray sliding bolt
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought a set from Moss about 2 years ago - are they NLA?

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting Services, LLC
702.882.6711

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Terry Lopez
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:47 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Parcel tray sliding bolt

I am trying to locate a pair of the sliding bolts that support the parcel
tray/backrest on a BJ8 when in the down position.  Anyone out there have a
pair they want to sell or know of a supplier that has them.  I've not found
them in any of the usual parts houses.

 

Terry Lopez

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
IMG_1537.JPG] _______________________________________________
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpaynepbr@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 13:45:51 2013
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	UTC
From: "David Nock BCS" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
To: "Terry Lopez" <tjlopez@charter.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <00cf01cef751$70ce6830$526b3890$@charter.net>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 12:17:55 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Parcel tray sliding bolt
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Terry, WE have these available new.



David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: Terry Lopez
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:47 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Parcel tray sliding bolt

I am trying to locate a pair of the sliding bolts that support the parcel
tray/backrest on a BJ8 when in the down position.  Anyone out there have a
pair they want to sell or know of a supplier that has them.  I've not found
them in any of the usual parts houses.



Terry Lopez

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 
IMG_1537.JPG]
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net 
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 14:09:56 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 12:14:51 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] How to reset your password (humor) some profanity. happy
 Thursday
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

*How to reset your password correctly *


*"Sorry, your password has been in use for 30 days and has expired so you
must register a new one."*


*roses*



*"Sorry, too few characters."*


*pretty roses*



*"Sorry, you must use at least one numerical character."*


*1 pretty rose*



*"Sorry, you cannot use blank spaces."*


*1prettyrose*



*"Sorry, you must use at least 10 different characters."*


*1fuckingprettyrose*



*"Sorry, you must use at least one upper case character."*


*1FUCKINGprettyrose*



*"Sorry, you cannot use more than one upper case character consecutively."*


*1FuckingPrettyRose*



*"Sorry, you must use no fewer than 20 total characters."*


*1FuckingPrettyRoseShovedUpYourAssIfYouDon'tGiveMeAccessRightFuckingNow!*



*"Sorry, you cannot use punctuation."*


*1FuckingPrettyRoseShovedUpYourAssIfYouDontGiveMeAccessRightFuckingNow*



*"Sorry, that password is already in use."*

Ira Erbs
IT Teacher
and Consultant
Portland, OR
You call it happiness. I call it Acute Despair Deficit syndrome.
My Doppelgdnger wants to start resembling other people.
copied from the Nein Quarterly
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 14:35:35 2013
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Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 20:36:33 +0100
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Sebring_3000=27s?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Andy,
I think Perry is right. The RB310 can cope with higher currents and is more effective than the RB106. 

Hope this mail comes through.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Datum: Wed, 11 Dec 2013 19:39:44 +0100
Von: healeyguy@aol.com
An: healeys@autox.team.net

Andy
a. Overdrive relay
b. RB106 is a two bobbin (coil) regulator. RB310 and 340 are three coil. Not
exactly sure when RB340 was introduced but the 310 can be easily adjusted with
a screw while the 340 uses a cam adjuster. Suspect that the Donald Healey lads
pulled a RB310 off an old Bentley and bumped the generator out put for the
driving lights.
Aloha
Perry
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 17:01:02 2013
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From: Keith Bailey <keithbailey5@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 08:13:55 +1000
To: Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Heat shield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi list
Could any BT7 Tri- Carb owner please advise which side of heat shield do the
spacers go
the manuals and part catalogue's appear to give different pictures of the
correct position of the spacers thanking you in anticipation
Cheers Keith
BT6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 17:18:01 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 11:14:40 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac73mB5v9UzWZvsLS+m/p+mKt2MoqQ==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New
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G'day

 

I am writing a short piece on a 1965 BJ8.

 

Would anyone know the list price of a BJ8 in the first half of 1965?

 

Many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 18:00:39 2013
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	Thu, 12 Dec 2013 18:53:01 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <00d201cef798$522bb990$f6832cb0$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 19:52:57 -0500
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$3699 US See: http://www.supercars.net/cars/5771.html

Look at the table on the right of the page.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:15 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New

G'day

 

I am writing a short piece on a 1965 BJ8.

 

Would anyone know the list price of a BJ8 in the first half of 1965?

 

Many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 18:10:01 2013
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From: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <00d201cef798$522bb990$f6832cb0$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 20:02:57 -0500
	FILETIME=[10F2EE60:01CEF79F]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My first car was a new BJ8, purchased in Rockford, Illinois on April 4th
1965, from Forest City Imported Cars, Ltd., 315 So. Church.  HBJ8L/30107
(British Racing Green, Black interior). $3870-$ 320 bdiscountb +$ 154
btax,
license, etc.b = $3704.  Equipped with tonneau, wire wheels, overdrive,
white sidewall tires (!), windscreen washer, heater & seat belts.
GaryB

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New

G'day



I am writing a short piece on a 1965 BJ8.



Would anyone know the list price of a BJ8 in the first half of 1965?



Many thanks



Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gbrierton@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 22:12:57 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 21:37:03 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (X11; Linux i686; rv:25.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Archives?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Having some odd issues with a couple of Team.Net functions.  Are any of 
you on this
list having troubles with accessing the archives?   It's the link there 
at the bottom
below the donate link.  It works for me, but that may have something to 
do with it being
just 3 feet to my right.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 23:08:38 2013
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To: mark@bradakis.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Archives?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark,  I just tried several of the links and had difficulty getting
them to open up too.  After several tries, they started to open up.  I
don't know for how long.

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Dec 13, 2013 12:06 am
Subject: [Healeys] Archives?


Having some odd issues with a couple of Team.Net functions.  Are any of
you on this
list having troubles with accessing the archives?   It's the link there
at the bottom
below the donate link.  It works for me, but that may have something to
do with it being
just 3 feet to my right.

mjb.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 23:12:05 2013
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References: <52AA8EEF.9060203@bradakis.com>
To: mark@bradakis.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Archives?
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Mark,  I just tried them again and the "forum" one was a little balky
but the other's worked each time (at time stamp 12:46 am EST)  I am
replying at 12:48 am.  My posts some times take about 30 mins. to make
the list.

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Dec 13, 2013 12:06 am
Subject: [Healeys] Archives?


Having some odd issues with a couple of Team.Net functions.  Are any of
you on this
list having troubles with accessing the archives?   It's the link there
at the bottom
below the donate link.  It works for me, but that may have something to
do with it being
just 3 feet to my right.

mjb.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 12 23:59:29 2013
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Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 23:55:14 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>
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To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <52AA8EEF.9060203@bradakis.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Archives?
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It appears there may be some hardware issues with the server causing random
failures in hard drive access, so things may or may not work as well as 
they should.
I'll keep an eye on it and attempt to resolve the issue.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 01:00:34 2013
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>
References: <52AA8EEF.9060203@bradakis.com>
  <52AAAF52.7070507@bradakis.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 17:54:53 +1000
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Content-Language: en-au
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Archives?
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mark
Just tried accessing Archives & Forums. No problem accessing either on a
couple of occasions. 
Cheers
John Rowe
Qld Australia
BN1 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Friday, 13 December 2013 4:55 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Archives?

It appears there may be some hardware issues with the server causing random
failures in hard drive access, so things may or may not work as well as they
should.
I'll keep an eye on it and attempt to resolve the issue.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 03:05:23 2013
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From: "Peter & Veronica" <greylinn@ozemail.com.au>
To: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark@bradakis.com>, "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <52AA8EEF.9060203@bradakis.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 20:01:44 +1000
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Archives?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm still having no luck Mark

Peter

-----Original Message----- 
From: Mark J Bradakis 
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2013 2:37 PM 
To: Healeys 
Subject: [Healeys] Archives? 

Having some odd issues with a couple of Team.Net functions.  Are any of 
you on this
list having troubles with accessing the archives?   It's the link there 
at the bottom
below the donate link.  It works for me, but that may have something to 
do with it being
just 3 feet to my right.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 03:32:54 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 11:29:21 +0100
To: "Keith Bailey" <keithbailey5@bigpond.com>, Healeys@autox.team.net
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] Heat shield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The spacers go on the carb side of the heat shield.
Cheers,

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter /Germany

-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: [Healeys] Heat shield
Datum: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 23:13:55 +0100
Von: Keith Bailey <keithbailey5@bigpond.com>
An: Healeys@autox.team.net

Hi list
Could any BT7 Tri- Carb owner please advise which side of heat shield do the
spacers go
the manuals and part catalogue's appear to give different pictures of the
correct position of the spacers thanking you in anticipation
Cheers Keith
BT6
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 04:03:49 2013
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References: <00d201cef798$522bb990$f6832cb0$@tpg.com.au>
	<COL129-DS225DA6D038ECFDA8C96CE0B3DF0@phx.gbl>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 22:00:19 +1100
To: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Patrick,
In July 1966 they cost 915 pounds, up to 1,098 pounds Sterling pretty much
fully optioned in London

Itemized sales invoice
http://www.myaustinhealey.com/john-sprinzel-healey.html
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 13 Dec 2013, at 12:02 pm, "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
wrote:
>
> My first car was a new BJ8, purchased in Rockford, Illinois on April 4th
> 1965, from Forest City Imported Cars, Ltd., 315 So. Church.  HBJ8L/30107
> (British Racing Green, Black interior). $3870-$ 320 bdiscountb +$ 154
> btax,
> license, etc.b = $3704.  Equipped with tonneau, wire wheels, overdrive,
> white sidewall tires (!), windscreen washer, heater & seat belts.
> GaryB
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
> Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:14 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New
>
> G'day
>
>
>
> I am writing a short piece on a 1965 BJ8.
>
>
>
> Would anyone know the list price of a BJ8 in the first half of 1965?
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 06:00:25 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 12:53:22 +0000 (UTC)
From: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Points vs electronic ignition
Thread-Index: mD0L3iznEj3tfPeX2Rppie9QpeCF8Q==
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Subject: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,
B 
I can't seem to access the archives so I will ask.....................I would
like to ask which is bestB  .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition
(pertronics)B  or is there a better elect. ign. system avail.? I have
Pertronics now ....seems ok...............I am going to have my distributorB 
rebuilt/re-curvedB  by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points are
better as did a few others I have asked...............................so I am
going to take a consensus
pros. and cons. would be greatly appreciated..............I just want the best
performance from my stock 1966 BJ8.
what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
B 
Thanks
Mitch
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 06:34:27 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 8:19:33 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have Pertronix in my Healey and E-Type and you couldn't pay me to go back to points.  Gone are the days of fiddling with points to get the "exact" setting.

tom

---- Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net> wrote: 

=============
Hello,
B 
I can't seem to access the archives so I will ask.....................I would
like to ask which is bestB  .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition
(pertronics)B  or is there a better elect. ign. system avail.? I have
Pertronics now ....seems ok...............I am going to have my distributorB 
rebuilt/re-curvedB  by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points are
better as did a few others I have asked...............................so I am
going to take a consensus
pros. and cons. would be greatly appreciated..............I just want the best
performance from my stock 1966 BJ8.
what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
B 
Thanks
Mitch
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 07:07:50 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 05:54:36 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Points are vastly superior to electronic ignition the same way an abacus is vastly superior to an HP RPN 12C 
calculator--ask any mortgage broker or loan officer--a carburettor is vastly superior to SFI, a Gnome rotary engine is 
vastly superior to a high-bypass turbofan and trepanning is vastly superior to an MRI.

Heard Jeff had some issues with Pertronix (but no specifics). I've had one in my BJ8 for many years and miles with nary 
a problem; and we put them in our 100M (this doesn't even require the magnets under the rotor).  Engine starts quicker 
and idles lower/smoother than it did with points.  Also, have heard sourcing quality points is getting to be problematic.

Bob

ps.  What objective reasons did Jeff give for categorically declaring points 'better?'


On 12/13/2013 5:19 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
> I have Pertronix in my Healey and E-Type and you couldn't pay me to go back to points.  Gone are the days of fiddling with points to get the "exact" setting.
>
> tom
>
> ---- Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> Hello,
> B
> I can't seem to access the archives so I will ask.....................I would
> like to ask which is bestB  .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition
> (pertronics)B  or is there a better elect. ign. system avail.? I have
> Pertronics now ....seems ok...............I am going to have my distributorB
> rebuilt/re-curvedB  by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points are
> better as did a few others I have asked...............................so I am
> going to take a consensus
> pros. and cons. would be greatly appreciated..............I just want the best
> performance from my stock 1966 BJ8.
> what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
> B
> Thanks
> Mitch
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 07:40:12 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 15:22:38 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20131213081933.Q48E7.68566.root@pamxwww08-z01>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Electronic ignition is far superior to points, especially in the higher 
rev. ranges. Once the timing is set properly it will stay that way. The 
spark is more powerful so you would arguably get a better ignition of 
the fuel mixture. It certainly will start easier. There is no points 
bounce.
There is no discernible difference in fuel consumption compared with a 
well set up and maintained points system, contrary to what is claimed.

There are a few disadvantages:
-as it is a fit and forget affair you also tend to forget to maintain 
the distributor, i.e. lubrication of the felt on the top of the shaft, 
lubrication of the advance weights, checking the rotor and cap on 
corrosion/burning.
-you are stuck when the ignition goes wrong, you cannot fix it by the 
road side unless you have a spare base plate with points, condenser etc.

Make sure that you always have the right resistance on the ignition, 
generally 3 Ohm, check the fitting instructions of the electronic 
ignition, there are systems that deviate..
If you have an ignition system in your car with ballast resistor, fit 
the electronic ignition over the coil plus resistor, both are appr. 1,5 
Ohm, so 3 Ohm in total. If you would fit the electronic ignition over 
the coil only (which is often done, also by mechanics who should know 
better) you may fry the ignition. You also do well to disconnect the 
small white/yellow wire from the starter solenoid that shorts the 
resistor when starting up. Alternatively replace the coil and resister 
by a 3 Ohm coil only.
Make sure your spark plugs are set slightly wider and renew the plug leads.

I have used Pertronix, Lumenition Magtronic and Lumenition Optronic. All 
did well but I would go for the Pertronix as is seems a bit more robust.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Tom Felts schreef op 13-12-2013 14:19:
> I have Pertronix in my Healey and E-Type and you couldn't pay me to go back to points.  Gone are the days of fiddling with points to get the "exact" setting.
>
> tom
>
> ---- Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> Hello,
> B
> I can't seem to access the archives so I will ask.....................I would
> like to ask which is bestB  .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition
> (pertronics)B  or is there a better elect. ign. system avail.? I have
> Pertronics now ....seems ok...............I am going to have my distributorB
> rebuilt/re-curvedB  by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points are
> better as did a few others I have asked...............................so I am
> going to take a consensus
> pros. and cons. would be greatly appreciated..............I just want the best
> performance from my stock 1966 BJ8.
> what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
> B
> Thanks
> Mitch
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
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> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4259 / Virusdatabase: 3658/6915 - datum van uitgifte: 12/12/13
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 07:54:56 2013
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	Fri, 13 Dec 2013 07:29:39 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Mitch'" <dayton21@comcast.net>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <242414132.17560478.1386938371663.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<818955895.17570514.1386939202004.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 08:29:31 -0500
Thread-index: AQJANbw7ysSC8Wshz9XUbS1sVWBuOZlvomOw
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You will probably get a lot of pros and cons. I prefer Pertronix since I
never have to adjust it as with points, etc. The down side is when it fails
it fails all of a sudden whereas points, etc. slowly fail (unless you have a
crap rotor which I had break once). I have heard that early Pertronix units
were not reliable but they seem to have worked the kinks out of them and I
have had mine 5 years with no problems.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mitch
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2013 7:53 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition

Hello,
B
I can't seem to access the archives so I will ask.....................I
would like to ask which is bestB  .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition
(pertronics)B  or is there a better elect. ign. system avail.? I have
Pertronics now ....seems ok...............I am going to have my distributorB
rebuilt/re-curvedB  by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points are
better as did a few others I have asked...............................so I
am going to take a consensus pros. and cons. would be greatly
appreciated..............I just want the best performance from my stock 1966
BJ8.
what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
B
Thanks
Mitch
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 08:11:51 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Mitch'" <dayton21@comcast.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <242414132.17560478.1386938371663.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<818955895.17570514.1386939202004.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 14:41:19 -0000
thread-index: Ac74EWKm8KsW3yBdRb2T7dqbxPN7GA==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a MkII BT7 but I don't imagine that my comments will be totally
irrelevant...
I had cause to have my Lucas DM6 distributor looked at professionally during
some problematic issue. It was diagnosed as being structurally very sound,
ie no wear in the shaft etc. I replaced the vacuum device (split), changed
the springs, cleaned out the gunk of ages, replaced the cap and the points.
It was pretty well as good  as new. So that's the starting point for
comparison purposes.
I then bought a Pertronics and experimented with that. I liked it; it was
neat and tidy, reliable & gave a nice idle and good response.
Just for the hell of it I got a 123Ignition unit and fitted that, keeping
the DM6 with Pertronics as a spare. (I had a spare "driving dog" attached so
it could, hopefully be done on the roadside if the 123 died the electronic
death.)
Anyhow, the 123 was an improvement on the Pertronics. It's easy to fit,
adjustable and more sophisticated. Look it up on the web. The one that I
bought looks quite like a Lucas ie not incongruous; the cap is Bosch so can
be bought anywhere. I use it in conjunction with a Lucas sports coil and NGK
BPR5ES plugs gapped at 0.030.
I took the car for a long trip in the summer, south-west UK to French
Mediterranean via the highest Alps en route. It all worked well.
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mitch
Sent: 13 December 2013 12:53
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition

Hello,
B
I can't seem to access the archives so I will ask.....................I
would like to ask which is bestB  .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition
(pertronics)B  or is there a better elect. ign. system avail.? I have
Pertronics now ....seems ok...............I am going to have my distributorB
rebuilt/re-curvedB  by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points are
better as did a few others I have asked...............................so I
am going to take a consensus pros. and cons. would be greatly
appreciated..............I just want the best performance from my stock 1966
BJ8.
what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
B
Thanks
Mitch
$12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 08:17:10 2013
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From: "Robert F. Begani" <rfbegani@speakeasy.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20131213081933.Q48E7.68566.root@pamxwww08-z01>
	<52AB182E.2020702@chello.nl>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 09:47:41 -0500
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	reip=0.000, cl=1, cld=1, fgs=0
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree that the electronic ignition is far superior to points for all the
reasons below.  However, I thank Kees for reminding me of maintenance
because things happen.  One little magnet loose or lost may only cause a
rough idle which will drive you crazy blaming everything else.   

Bob Begani BJ8
-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Oudesluys
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2013 9:23 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition

Electronic ignition is far superior to points, especially in the higher rev.
ranges. Once the timing is set properly it will stay that way. The spark is
more powerful so you would arguably get a better ignition of the fuel
mixture. It certainly will start easier. There is no points bounce.
There is no discernible difference in fuel consumption compared with a well
set up and maintained points system, contrary to what is claimed.

There are a few disadvantages:
-as it is a fit and forget affair you also tend to forget to maintain the
distributor, i.e. lubrication of the felt on the top of the shaft,
lubrication of the advance weights, checking the rotor and cap on
corrosion/burning.
-you are stuck when the ignition goes wrong, you cannot fix it by the road
side unless you have a spare base plate with points, condenser etc.

Make sure that you always have the right resistance on the ignition,
generally 3 Ohm, check the fitting instructions of the electronic ignition,
there are systems that deviate..
If you have an ignition system in your car with ballast resistor, fit the
electronic ignition over the coil plus resistor, both are appr. 1,5 Ohm, so
3 Ohm in total. If you would fit the electronic ignition over the coil only
(which is often done, also by mechanics who should know
better) you may fry the ignition. You also do well to disconnect the small
white/yellow wire from the starter solenoid that shorts the resistor when
starting up. Alternatively replace the coil and resister by a 3 Ohm coil
only.
Make sure your spark plugs are set slightly wider and renew the plug leads.

I have used Pertronix, Lumenition Magtronic and Lumenition Optronic. All did
well but I would go for the Pertronix as is seems a bit more robust.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Tom Felts schreef op 13-12-2013 14:19:
> I have Pertronix in my Healey and E-Type and you couldn't pay me to go
back to points.  Gone are the days of fiddling with points to get the
"exact" setting.
>
> tom
>
> ---- Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> Hello,
> B
> I can't seem to access the archives so I will 
> ask.....................I would like to ask which is bestB  
> .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition (pertronics)B  or is there a 
> better elect. ign. system avail.? I have Pertronics now ....seems 
> ok...............I am going to have my distributorB rebuilt/re-curvedB  
> by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points are better as did 
> a few others I have asked...............................so I am going 
> to take a consensus pros. and cons. would be greatly 
> appreciated..............I just want the best performance from my stock
1966 BJ8.
> what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
> B
> Thanks
> Mitch
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4259 / Virusdatabase: 3658/6915 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 12/12/13
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References: <20131213081933.Q48E7.68566.root@pamxwww08-z01>
	<52AB119C.9080004@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 09:40:08 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Although for the reasons mentioned any good electronic system is superior
in performance to points there are 2 considerations.
1. They are original so, unless you are trying to make a silk purse out of
a sow's ear, points is what you got!!!
2. If the electronic system does fail, and this has happened to me, and you
failed to carry either a spare system of the same type or the components of
your original points system you are STUCK.. This I know after trying to
find a set of points for a BN1 in Gander, NF.

Michael S


On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 8:54 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Points are vastly superior to electronic ignition the same way an abacus
> is vastly superior to an HP RPN 12C calculator--ask any mortgage broker or
> loan officer--a carburettor is vastly superior to SFI, a Gnome rotary
> engine is vastly superior to a high-bypass turbofan and trepanning is
> vastly superior to an MRI.
>
> Heard Jeff had some issues with Pertronix (but no specifics). I've had one
> in my BJ8 for many years and miles with nary a problem; and we put them in
> our 100M (this doesn't even require the magnets under the rotor).  Engine
> starts quicker and idles lower/smoother than it did with points.  Also,
> have heard sourcing quality points is getting to be problematic.
>
> Bob
>
> ps.  What objective reasons did Jeff give for categorically declaring
> points 'better?'
>
>
>
> On 12/13/2013 5:19 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
>
>> I have Pertronix in my Healey and E-Type and you couldn't pay me to go
>> back to points.  Gone are the days of fiddling with points to get the
>> "exact" setting.
>>
>> tom
>>
>> ---- Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> =============
>> Hello,
>> B
>> I can't seem to access the archives so I will ask.....................I
>> would
>> like to ask which is bestB  .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition
>> (pertronics)B  or is there a better elect. ign. system avail.? I have
>> Pertronics now ....seems ok...............I am going to have my
>> distributorB
>> rebuilt/re-curvedB  by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points
>> are
>> better as did a few others I have asked...............................so
>> I am
>> going to take a consensus
>> pros. and cons. would be greatly appreciated..............I just want the
>> best
>> performance from my stock 1966 BJ8.
>> what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
>> B
>> Thanks
>> Mitch
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 08:23:05 2013
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From: "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner@aon.at>
To: "'Tom Felts'" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>,
	"'Mitch'" <dayton21@comcast.net>
References: <818955895.17570514.1386939202004.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<20131213081933.Q48E7.68566.root@pamxwww08-z01>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 14:58:24 +0100
Thread-Index: AQK/aPA02lPHxLgeWqLmHvmgbFF56ZhxQ6SQ
Content-Language: de-at
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Interesting question. In my 100 I still have points and have learnt how to
set the ignition - it's not too hard. 

With the electronic ignition: Is there a difference if you have a 4- or a
6-cylinder car?

Reinhart


Reinhart Rosner
55 100 BN 1
Vienna - Austria
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 09:17:49 2013
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References: <4176D622-A9D0-4390-87BB-4C773C83318F@bigpond.com>
To: keithbailey5@bigpond.com, Healeys@autox.team.net
From: warthodson@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heat shield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mine has one spacer (approx. 3/16" thick) on each side of the heat shield. I
am no sure this is original. I do recall that the heat shield cannot be
installed (won't lay flat) without a spacer between it & the intake manifolds.
Also, I installed a gasket on each side of each spacer. I.E. 4 gaskets/carb.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Bailey <keithbailey5@bigpond.com>
To: Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Dec 12, 2013 5:58 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Heat shield


Hi list
Could any BT7 Tri- Carb owner please advise which side of heat shield do the
spacers go
the manuals and part catalogue's appear to give different pictures of the
correct position of the spacers thanking you in anticipation
Cheers Keith
BT6
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 09:25:12 2013
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	Fri, 13 Dec 2013 06:43:14 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" <mark@bradakis.com>, "'Healeys'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <52AA8EEF.9060203@bradakis.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 07:43:05 -0500
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Accessed several times over the past couple of days. Sometimes got right on,
sometimes took a while but nothing that I could not cope with.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 11:37 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Archives?

Having some odd issues with a couple of Team.Net functions.  Are any of you
on this
list having troubles with accessing the archives?   It's the link there 
at the bottom
below the donate link.  It works for me, but that may have something to do
with it being just 3 feet to my right.

mjb.
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 09:52:56 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 10:52:12 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And-----I have carried a spare Pertronix around for years waiting for the time one fails------years now----13 to be exact.  Heck--that spare must be corroded by now.

tom

---- Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote: 

=============
Electronic ignition is far superior to points, especially in the higher 
rev. ranges. Once the timing is set properly it will stay that way. The 
spark is more powerful so you would arguably get a better ignition of 
the fuel mixture. It certainly will start easier. There is no points 
bounce.
There is no discernible difference in fuel consumption compared with a 
well set up and maintained points system, contrary to what is claimed.

There are a few disadvantages:
-as it is a fit and forget affair you also tend to forget to maintain 
the distributor, i.e. lubrication of the felt on the top of the shaft, 
lubrication of the advance weights, checking the rotor and cap on 
corrosion/burning.
-you are stuck when the ignition goes wrong, you cannot fix it by the 
road side unless you have a spare base plate with points, condenser etc.

Make sure that you always have the right resistance on the ignition, 
generally 3 Ohm, check the fitting instructions of the electronic 
ignition, there are systems that deviate..
If you have an ignition system in your car with ballast resistor, fit 
the electronic ignition over the coil plus resistor, both are appr. 1,5 
Ohm, so 3 Ohm in total. If you would fit the electronic ignition over 
the coil only (which is often done, also by mechanics who should know 
better) you may fry the ignition. You also do well to disconnect the 
small white/yellow wire from the starter solenoid that shorts the 
resistor when starting up. Alternatively replace the coil and resister 
by a 3 Ohm coil only.
Make sure your spark plugs are set slightly wider and renew the plug leads.

I have used Pertronix, Lumenition Magtronic and Lumenition Optronic. All 
did well but I would go for the Pertronix as is seems a bit more robust.

Kees Oudesluijs
NL



Tom Felts schreef op 13-12-2013 14:19:
> I have Pertronix in my Healey and E-Type and you couldn't pay me to go back to points.  Gone are the days of fiddling with points to get the "exact" setting.
>
> tom
>
> ---- Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> =============
> Hello,
> B
> I can't seem to access the archives so I will ask.....................I would
> like to ask which is bestB  .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition
> (pertronics)B  or is there a better elect. ign. system avail.? I have
> Pertronics now ....seems ok...............I am going to have my distributorB
> rebuilt/re-curvedB  by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points are
> better as did a few others I have asked...............................so I am
> going to take a consensus
> pros. and cons. would be greatly appreciated..............I just want the best
> performance from my stock 1966 BJ8.
> what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
> B
> Thanks
> Mitch
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
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>
>
>
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 16:17:44 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <818955895.17570514.1386939202004.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
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Thread-Topic: Points vs electronic ignition
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Pertronix makes modules for both. The 6-cyl module requires a 'collar' with magnets that sits under the rotor (sometimes causing problems with some rotor/cap combinations). The 4-cyl module does not require the collar; apparently, it senses the movement of the cam lobes (the 4-cyl distributor is smaller than the 6-cyl and I don't think there's room for the collar anyway). 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner@aon.at> 
To: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, healeys@autox.team.net, "Mitch" <dayton21@comcast.net> 
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2013 5:58:24 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition 

Interesting question. In my 100 I still have points and have learnt how to 
set the ignition - it's not too hard. 

With the electronic ignition: Is there a difference if you have a 4- or a 
6-cylinder car? 

Reinhart 


Reinhart Rosner 
55 100 BN 1 
Vienna - Austria 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 10:27:45 2013
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 11:34:57 -0500 (EST)
To: reinhart.rosner@aon.at, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I also still have points in my 100 and I set and maintain them myself. I  
always carry a spare set of points, condenser, rotor cap, distributor cap and 
 plugs. I also have a complete set in my garage. Knock wood, I've never had 
a  problem with any of them while driving, but I have helped more than a 
few others  out of a jam on the road. I enjoy getting in there and doing the 
work. I started  doing it in the 70's on Healeys and it just kind of brings 
me back every now and  then. 
    If I raced my car, I might go different. If I  didn't enjoy getting in 
to the engine compartment, I might go different. If I  wanted a new car 
feel, I might go different. But I like the 1953 engineering,  that's why I 
bought the car. It's a personal preference. I say fit your car  however you 
please, your taste and how you want it are your choice. Set it up  the way you 
want and then drive it how you want, the key words here being, drive  it! And 
if going to electronic ignition is going to get you to drive your car  more, 
enjoy it more, then by all means, go electronic. It's your car. Like many,  
I didn't buy my car to let it sit in my garage. I bought it for the smiles 
it  brings me and others while on the road.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
 
In a message dated 12/13/2013 7:21:03 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
reinhart.rosner@aon.at writes:

Interesting question. In my 100 I still have points and have learnt  how to
set the ignition - it's not too hard. 

With the electronic  ignition: Is there a difference if you have a 4- or a
6-cylinder  car?

Reinhart


Reinhart Rosner
55 100 BN 1
Vienna -  Austria
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 11:45:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 heater core
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a spare but broken smiths heater core for the 100,  since these are
becoming rare I am contemplating restoring and re-selling it (on ebay)
The
reproduction now available from Moss is hideous and cost $500.

The problem is
a blockage and leak in the last round element,  the element seems to have
burst so the "serpentine" fins are loose too in this area.   I assume this
could be boiled out or dipped in acid to remove rust and crud and the element
can probably be soldered shut.  No big risk in trying repairing myself or
going to a radiator shop.  


Does anybody have experience in restoring a
heater core and willing to share some tips?

thanks

Bert
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 13:32:45 2013
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To: "Healeys, Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think its a philosophical question points vs electronic ignition. I am an electronic engineer and working as the electronic expert for a company who I think sells most 123 Ignition electronic systems here in Europe. The 123 is far superior to any other electronic system like Petronix, Lumenition, etc and extremely reliable. That`s my job to promote these electronical systems. My own Healeys I run with points. When driving my Healeys I want to have the feel and technology of a classic car and not a modern. My daily driver has all these gimmicks I enjoy, but I do not need in the Healey. For me its like having a Rolex Daytona watch and changing the mechanical clockwork for an elecrical one. With the Healeys I want to feel these not perfect technology of the 50s/60s and can control and dominate it. That gives me my satisfaction driving a Healey or other classic car. But I am happy to sell as much electronic equipment I can. Electtronic ignitions are superior definitely, but that`s not what I want in my classic cars.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 13:41:20 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 15:20:26 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Water Pump Kits
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The pump kits are all sold... many thanks to all who responded.
I will continue my quest for additional parts who knows maybe I will find
enough to make up some
more kits somewhere.

Michael S
BN1 #174


On Wed, Dec 11, 2013 at 4:26 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> I have only a few water pump kits for BJ8s left and it appears that I will
> not be able to purchase any more of the bearings as the production has been
> discontinued so this will probably be the last of them.
> The kits are $45.65 ea + shipping and there are instructions on my bloghere<http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=994>
> .
>
> --
> Michael Salter
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 13:51:03 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 20:28:04 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac74QdHk92eN567vQhieFxwHly+J5w==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am thinking about putting 3 webers or dellortos on my 3000. 

It has a big bore bunch of bananas exhaust and a Denis Welch fast road cam
so it's half way there, if you see what I mean.

Now, wise gurus will say "if it ain't  broke, don't fix it" and one already
has! But these things have a dreadful fascination....a bit like Everest!

So, in any particular order, what does your experience say?.....

Dellortos or Webers? 

Which size/type? 45DCOE seems to be the Webers that most people mention or
sell. (Are they really made our of platinum?)

Are there any 6 cyl cars out there whose inlet manifolds fit ours? ie the
Datsun 250Z or the (old) BMW 3.0? Certainly, the Datsun people seem to have
plenty of bits and pieces; if only they'd fit.

What other tips?...

A bit late, but it's amazing how responsive Father Christmas can be.....

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 14:20:18 2013
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To: bertvanbrande@yahoo.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: healeyguy@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 15:42:24 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 heater core
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bert
I always fine it interesting when very similar parts have a significant
difference in price.  The AH100 and TR3 heater core are virtually the same
except for the metal connection tubes. I'm not picking on suppliers but as a
sample Moss list price on the TR3 is $390 and the AH 100 is $490. 25% more to
make the tubes straight instead of curved. Used heater cores come up on ebay
fairly often.  Once they are damaged they can be a fun job to repair.  I have
a TR3 core in my BN2 withe the straight tubes soldered in.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Bert Van Brande <bertvanbrande@yahoo.com>
To: List Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Dec 13, 2013 3:03 pm
Subject: [Healeys] 100 heater core


I have a spare but broken smiths heater core for the 100,  since these are
ecoming rare I am contemplating restoring and re-selling it (on ebay)
he
eproduction now available from Moss is hideous and cost $500.
The problem is
 blockage and leak in the last round element,  the element seems to have
urst so the "serpentine" fins are loose too in this area.   I assume this
ould be boiled out or dipped in acid to remove rust and crud and the element
an probably be soldered shut.  No big risk in trying repairing myself or
oing to a radiator shop.

oes anybody have experience in restoring a
eater core and willing to share some tips?
thanks
Bert
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 14:42:49 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 12:59:23 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] points vs electronic
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

So my story goes as follows.
 I felt my Lucas distributor wasno tbeing as responsive as I would like. I
think th evacumm advance has issues. I bought a complete Pertronix Digital
distributor. It failed right out of the box. I put my trusty old Lucas unit
in and the car fired up after a three year sleep. I sold of fmost of my NOS
points stash and will be sending my digitall unit back for repair.
I have read about each of the replacement systems and at this point I think
123 units are best. NFI. I will re-install the Pertronix unit on return and
then send my Lucas one out for rebuild to keep as a back up.
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 14:45:32 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 16:16:37 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>,  "Healeys,
	Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition
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Try driving it 6000 across Europe in 47 days then tell me about points vs electronic:):)


---- "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote: 

=============
I think its a philosophical question points vs electronic ignition. I am an electronic engineer and working as the electronic expert for a company who I think sells most 123 Ignition electronic systems here in Europe. The 123 is far superior to any other electronic system like Petronix, Lumenition, etc and extremely reliable. That`s my job to promote these electronical systems. My own Healeys I run with points. When driving my Healeys I want to have the feel and technology of a classic car and not a modern. My daily driver has all these gimmicks I enjoy, but I do not need in the Healey. For me its like having a Rolex Daytona watch and changing the mechanical clockwork for an elecrical one. With the Healeys I want to feel these not perfect technology of the 50s/60s and can control and dominate it. That gives me my satisfaction driving a Healey or other classic car. But I am happy to sell as much electronic equipment I can. Electtronic ignitions are superior definitely, but that`s not 
 what I want in my classic cars.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 22:58:39 +0100
To: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 15:48:02 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 13:48:22 -0800
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
Cc: "Healeys,
  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think my back pain would distract me form any isues wiht the points :)

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 1:16 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net> wrote:

> Try driving it 6000 across Europe in 47 days then tell me about points vs
> electronic:):)
>
>
> ---- "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:
>
> =============
> I think its a philosophical question points vs electronic ignition. I am
> an electronic engineer and working as the electronic expert for a company
> who I think sells most 123 Ignition electronic systems here in Europe. The
> 123 is far superior to any other electronic system like Petronix,
> Lumenition, etc and extremely reliable. That`s my job to promote these
> electronical systems. My own Healeys I run with points. When driving my
> Healeys I want to have the feel and technology of a classic car and not a
> modern. My daily driver has all these gimmicks I enjoy, but I do not need
> in the Healey. For me its like having a Rolex Daytona watch and changing
> the mechanical clockwork for an elecrical one. With the Healeys I want to
> feel these not perfect technology of the 50s/60s and can control and
> dominate it. That gives me my satisfaction driving a Healey or other
> classic car. But I am happy to sell as much electronic equipment I can.
> Electtronic ignitions are superior definitely, but that`s not
>  what I want in my classic cars.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts@windstream.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 16:06:27 2013
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From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 14:37:49 -0800
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Throttle arms
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I need to replace the throttle arm on my BT7 (its worn out). I have looked
at the BJ type lever and  the BT7 one. I am modifying my throtle linkage to
a cable set up. I have HD8 carbs on my engine. The BJ arm is around $70.00
and the BT7 one is $14.00. I still need to weld and extension. My question
is simple. Is the BJ arm that much of an improvement over the BT7 arm, that
I should pay so much more for it?
I'm using the Denis Welch set up.
Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 16:27:08 2013
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References: <1VrYyg-45OqH20@fwd23.aul.t-online.de>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 17:47:52 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: josef-eckert@t-online.de
Cc: "Healeys, Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Josef is right.
It's philosophical.  That being said - I'll be going electronic ignition.
The SU fuel pump, on the other hand?  It's not a Healey without that
clicking when the ignition is switched on!
YMMV.
Cheers,
Mike
 On Dec 13, 2013 3:31 PM, "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <
josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:

> I think its a philosophical question points vs electronic ignition. I am
> an electronic engineer and working as the electronic expert for a company
> who I think sells most 123 Ignition electronic systems here in Europe. The
> 123 is far superior to any other electronic system like Petronix,
> Lumenition, etc and extremely reliable. That`s my job to promote these
> electronical systems. My own Healeys I run with points. When driving my
> Healeys I want to have the feel and technology of a classic car and not a
> modern. My daily driver has all these gimmicks I enjoy, but I do not need
> in the Healey. For me its like having a Rolex Daytona watch and changing
> the mechanical clockwork for an elecrical one. With the Healeys I want to
> feel these not perfect technology of the 50s/60s and can control and
> dominate it. That gives me my satisfaction driving a Healey or other
> classic car. But I am happy to sell as much electronic equipment I can.
> Electtronic ignitions are superior definitely, but that`s not
>  what I want in my classic cars.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbt71@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 16:31:12 2013
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 14:54:01 -0800
	FILETIME=[37252460:01CEF856]
Subject: [Healeys] vote for points
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I agree with those who like points. I like to feel I have something to do on
the car. But Jeff at Advanced rebuilt my dizzy over 3 years ago (3K per year)
and I have not had to touch anything since. Sort of takes the fun out of it.
Car runs great. (knock on wood - that's why I have a wood steering wheel, so
wood is always handy).  I have a 2011 Audi Turbo with all that crap under the
hood I don't understand. I only open the hood to add windshield fluid. Where
is the fun in that? I don't have a connection with the Audi. The Healey has a
lot of my blood and skin all over the car. We have a bond that you cannot get
if you don't work on it. Sort of a feeling if something isn't right.
Add electronics, electric fans, better suspension, air conditioning, and all
the modern upgrades and you no longer have that 50's,60's LBC thrill and
excitement that got you interested in the first place.
Just my two cents.
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 16:59:09 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 15:28:14 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heat shield
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Keith:

I own a very original top-shift tri-carb - '62.  The spacer - called the 
'distance piece' in the parts manual should be installed between the carb 
and the heat shield.  The spacer acts as a heat insulating piece (of sorts) 
for the carbs.  So  -- from the intake manifold out, the 'stack' should be: 
gasket - heatshield - gasket - spacer - gasket carb.  3 gaskets per carb for 
a total of 9, before the air cleaner is installed.  You are right - the 
manual is a little ambiguous on that page.

On the left hand drive cars, there is very little clearance between the 
bottom of the jet on the rear carb and the steering column.  An extra 
spacer, or one that is thicker than the original will almost always cause 
problems there, even with normal engine movement.

I've attached a photo for you (and Gary), which I know the list will strip.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb




-----Original Message----- 
From: warthodson@aol.com
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2013 7:27 AM
To: keithbailey5@bigpond.com ; Healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heat shield

Mine has one spacer (approx. 3/16" thick) on each side of the heat shield. I
am no sure this is original. I do recall that the heat shield cannot be
installed (won't lay flat) without a spacer between it & the intake 
manifolds.
Also, I installed a gasket on each side of each spacer. I.E. 4 gaskets/carb.
Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Bailey <keithbailey5@bigpond.com>
To: Healeys <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Dec 12, 2013 5:58 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Heat shield


Hi list
Could any BT7 Tri- Carb owner please advise which side of heat shield do the
spacers go
the manuals and part catalogue's appear to give different pictures of the
correct position of the spacers thanking you in anticipation
Cheers Keith
BT6

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCN0486.JPG]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 17:53:59 2013
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Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 17:03:11 -0700
From: Michael Hartfield <hartfiel@alumni.princeton.edu>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Thread-Topic: BJ8 Price When New (Chris Dimmock)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New (Chris Dimmock)
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In U.S. dollars in July 1965 1098.13 Pounds Sterling  = $3,061.92   (no
sales tax or shipping included)
Michael Hartfield
1965 Bj8
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 13 18:01:21 2013
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From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Mitch" <dayton21@comcast.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <818955895.17570514.1386939202004.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 16:15:04 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mitch - lots of interesting replies!

My experience:  I've run electronic ignitions on both Healey for many 
years - a Repco - which became Allison, which became Crane on my BJ8, 
approx. 120K miles until it was taken off the road for restoration.  I've 
had a Pertronix on the tri-carb for 18 years - 46K miles since installation. 
I've never had a problem with either one.

The BJ8 is back on the road with a 123 ignition installed.  It's built into 
a Lucas distributor - for looks only  - it functions the same as the normal 
123.  The Pertronix (and some others) replace the 'switching' function only, 
replacing the points and condenser, with the weights and springs in the 
distributor still functioning to provide the mechanical advance.  It's 
important to recognise that the mechanical part of the distributor is 
usually worn on these old beasts, and should be repaired to correct specs 
regardless of whether points or Pertronx (and others like it).

The 123 is fully electronic, replacing points, condenser, weights and 
springs.  It uses the vacuum advance function by supplying the necessary 
vacuum to a vacuum sensitive microchip on the circuit board - pretty 
sophisticated for our old cars!  But it sure works well!  It's early days 
yet for me - only about 2K miles on the 123, but I really like it so far.

No-one has mentioned a couple of other things about using an electronic 
ignition:  they tend to damp out 'wobble' from wear in the distributor - 
there will be less timing fluctuation without a rubbing block on the dist. 
cam.  The triggering slots or magnets being well outboard compared to points 
helps here as well.  Also, it's my finding that points don't do as well on 
our old seasonally driven cars as they did when the cars were daily drivers. 
The points tend to deteriorate / coat / corrode faster when the car sits for 
a few months, especially in damp climates.  The maintenance factor alone is 
enough for me.

With the electronics, I've always kept the parts that were removed from the 
distributor in a baggie in the car in order to be able to make a roadside 
repair in case of an electronic failure.  I'm convinced that having the bits 
necessary to get me running again just might help to keep the electronic 
'Leprechauns' away.  I plan on carrying a complete known good spare 
distributor with points installed, and a wired spare cap, along with at 
least a couple of rotors, in the BJ8 in order to convince the 123 to not 
fail.

I also use electronic fuel pumps in both cars for similar reasons - they are 
diaphragm pumps and click satisfactorily, just like the originals.

It's worth noting that if you are considering switching the car to NEG 
ground, the time to do that (if not already done) would be before ordering 
any electronic bits.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Mitch
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2013 4:53 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition

Hello,
B
I can't seem to access the archives so I will ask.....................I 
would
like to ask which is bestB  .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition
(pertronics)B  or is there a better elect. ign. system avail.? I have
Pertronics now ....seems ok...............I am going to have my distributorB
rebuilt/re-curvedB  by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points are
better as did a few others I have asked...............................so I 
am
going to take a consensus
pros. and cons. would be greatly appreciated..............I just want the 
best
performance from my stock 1966 BJ8.
what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
B
Thanks
Mitch
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition
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re:  "The SU fuel pump, on the other hand? It's not a Healey without that clicking when the ignition is switched on! "

Points, or electronic?

bs


On 12/13/2013 2:47 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:
> Josef is right.
> It's philosophical.  That being said - I'll be going electronic ignition.
> The SU fuel pump, on the other hand?  It's not a Healey without that
> clicking when the ignition is switched on!
> YMMV.
> Cheers,
> Mike
>   On Dec 13, 2013 3:31 PM, "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <
> josef-eckert@t-online.de> wrote:
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 02:33:01 2013
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 09:18:15 +0000
References: <1VrYyg-45OqH20@fwd23.aul.t-online.de>
To: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Cc: "Healeys, Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Josef

Great analogy, I couldn't have put it better myself. Long live points.

Derek
On 13 Dec 2013, at 20:04, josef-eckert@t-online.de wrote:

> I think its a philosophical question points vs electronic ignition. I am an
electronic engineer and working as the electronic expert for a company who I
think sells most 123 Ignition electronic systems here in Europe. The 123 is
far superior to any other electronic system like Petronix, Lumenition, etc and
extremely reliable. That`s my job to promote these electronical systems. My
own Healeys I run with points. When driving my Healeys I want to have the feel
and technology of a classic car and not a modern. My daily driver has all
these gimmicks I enjoy, but I do not need in the Healey. For me its like
having a Rolex Daytona watch and changing the mechanical clockwork for an
elecrical one. With the Healeys I want to feel these not perfect technology of
the 50s/60s and can control and dominate it. That gives me my satisfaction
driving a Healey or other classic car. But I am happy to sell as much
electronic equipment I can. Electtronic ignitions are superior definitely, but
that`s not
> what I want in my classic cars.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 02:44:07 2013
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
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	<880A441B1A004B5DBDD5FA6161051FED@KagsLaptop>
To: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My recommendation is, .if you want electronic ignition.buy a Mazda.

Surely the maintenance of the points set up is part of the fun of owning a
classic car. Its hardly rocket science and a set of points costs about #2.50
and lasts 3000 miles or more. Whats the problem? Properly set up the
difference to electronic ignition is not noticeable, especially given the fact
that most people are just pootling around at 50 or 60 mph for a couple of
thousand miles a year. Meanwhile Healeys are being thrashed around Le Mans and
the Spa 6 hours, using points.

Come on guysstick to the way classics are supposed to be. I wonder if anyone
has ever fitted electronic ignition on a Model T?

Derek


On 14 Dec 2013, at 00:15, Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:

> Mitch - lots of interesting replies!
>
> My experience:  I've run electronic ignitions on both Healey for many years
- a Repco - which became Allison, which became Crane on my BJ8, approx. 120K
miles until it was taken off the road for restoration.  I've had a Pertronix
on the tri-carb for 18 years - 46K miles since installation. I've never had a
problem with either one.
>
> The BJ8 is back on the road with a 123 ignition installed.  It's built into
a Lucas distributor - for looks only  - it functions the same as the normal
123.  The Pertronix (and some others) replace the 'switching' function only,
replacing the points and condenser, with the weights and springs in the
distributor still functioning to provide the mechanical advance.  It's
important to recognise that the mechanical part of the distributor is usually
worn on these old beasts, and should be repaired to correct specs regardless
of whether points or Pertronx (and others like it).
>
> The 123 is fully electronic, replacing points, condenser, weights and
springs.  It uses the vacuum advance function by supplying the necessary
vacuum to a vacuum sensitive microchip on the circuit board - pretty
sophisticated for our old cars!  But it sure works well!  It's early days yet
for me - only about 2K miles on the 123, but I really like it so far.
>
> No-one has mentioned a couple of other things about using an electronic
ignition:  they tend to damp out 'wobble' from wear in the distributor - there
will be less timing fluctuation without a rubbing block on the dist. cam.  The
triggering slots or magnets being well outboard compared to points helps here
as well.  Also, it's my finding that points don't do as well on our old
seasonally driven cars as they did when the cars were daily drivers. The
points tend to deteriorate / coat / corrode faster when the car sits for a few
months, especially in damp climates.  The maintenance factor alone is enough
for me.
>
> With the electronics, I've always kept the parts that were removed from the
distributor in a baggie in the car in order to be able to make a roadside
repair in case of an electronic failure.  I'm convinced that having the bits
necessary to get me running again just might help to keep the electronic
'Leprechauns' away.  I plan on carrying a complete known good spare
distributor with points installed, and a wired spare cap, along with at least
a couple of rotors, in the BJ8 in order to convince the 123 to not fail.
>
> I also use electronic fuel pumps in both cars for similar reasons - they are
diaphragm pumps and click satisfactorily, just like the originals.
>
> It's worth noting that if you are considering switching the car to NEG
ground, the time to do that (if not already done) would be before ordering any
electronic bits.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Mitch
> Sent: Friday, December 13, 2013 4:53 AM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition
>
> Hello,
> B
> I can't seem to access the archives so I will ask.....................I
would
> like to ask which is bestB  .......PointsB  orB  electronic ignition
> (pertronics)B  or is there a better elect. ign. system avail.? I have
> Pertronics now ....seems ok...............I am going to have my
distributorB
> rebuilt/re-curvedB  by Jeff at Advanced DistributorsB  He says ...points
are
> better as did a few others I have asked...............................so I
am
> going to take a consensus
> pros. and cons. would be greatly appreciated..............I just want the
best
> performance from my stock 1966 BJ8.
> what about ..Mallory,crane,etc.
> B
> Thanks
> Mitch
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 03:18:23 2013
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 10:10:54 +0000
References: <52ab7293.6539320a.5bd2.18feSMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon

The truth is that you really only need Webers for racing or competitionbut so
whatthey look fantasticso why not.

I'm sure Kees will tell you to get Dellortos and he may be right, but Webers
are what everybody goes for.

The most common set up is using 45 DCOE's with 36mm chokes. Mine use the
following

Choke 36mm

Aux venturi  4.5

Main jet 145

air corrector 155

emmulsion tubes f16

Idle jet 55 f6

needle valve 200

pump jet  45

pump spill 40


Most of those came standard with the carbs out of the box, although a couple
of items were changed during the rolling road set up, the idle jet for one.
Setting up on a rolling road is essential but once they are properly set up,
you forget them.
If they are spitting they are not correctly set. (They might spit a bit on
start up when cold)

You will also need to  budget for body work modifications. You have to cut
away the diagonal side brace, contrary to popular myth you do not need to cut
out a piece of the shroud to change jets etc, although it does improve access
to the stacks and whatever filters you put on.

You will have to decide on a set of intake manifolds. You can get them from
the usual suspects. Obviously Welch ones are popular and claim to be virtually
identical to the ones used on the last works rally cars, although slightly
shorter so they don't need to have support towers. AH Spares might be worth a
look as they have been developing their performance parts in conjunction with
Anders Schildt. Or rather its Anders Schildt who has been developing them. The
longer intake manifolds on the works cars were probably the reason for the
shroud cut out, but as mentioned, this is not necessary with most of the
modern versions.

If you are determined to blow all your christmas money you should consider
switching to a cable throttle which is a big improvement. Beware though its a
slippery slope!!!  next come the forged pistons, aluminium head, aluminium
back plate, roller rockers, lightweight fly wheel and alumium pulleyetc..

Actually the DWR deep V pulley is a nice upgrade and not that costly.

Good luck

Derek





On 13 Dec 2013, at 20:28, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:

> I am thinking about putting 3 webers or dellortos on my 3000.
>
> It has a big bore bunch of bananas exhaust and a Denis Welch fast road cam
> so it's half way there, if you see what I mean.
>
> Now, wise gurus will say "if it ain't  broke, don't fix it" and one already
> has! But these things have a dreadful fascination....a bit like Everest!
>
> So, in any particular order, what does your experience say?.....
>
> Dellortos or Webers?
>
> Which size/type? 45DCOE seems to be the Webers that most people mention or
> sell. (Are they really made our of platinum?)
>
> Are there any 6 cyl cars out there whose inlet manifolds fit ours? ie the
> Datsun 250Z or the (old) BMW 3.0? Certainly, the Datsun people seem to have
> plenty of bits and pieces; if only they'd fit.
>
> What other tips?...
>
> A bit late, but it's amazing how responsive Father Christmas can be.....
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 05:16:41 2013
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	<8216DAFE-2311-4ED0-B517-1B63459ED806@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 06:11:41 -0600
From: jerry wall <jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: "<healeys@Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

However, be sure and retain the points.
Cheers,


On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 at 4:10 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Simon
>
> The truth is that you really only need Webers for racing or competition
> but so
> what they look fantastic so why not.
>
> I'm sure Kees will tell you to get Dellortos and he may be right, but
> Webers
> are what everybody goes for.
>
> The most common set up is using 45 DCOE's with 36mm chokes. Mine use the
> following
>
> Choke 36mm
>
> Aux venturi  4.5
>
> Main jet 145
>
> air corrector 155
>
> emmulsion tubes f16
>
> Idle jet 55 f6
>
> needle valve 200
>
> pump jet  45
>
> pump spill 40
>
>
> Most of those came standard with the carbs out of the box, although a
> couple
> of items were changed during the rolling road set up, the idle jet for one.
> Setting up on a rolling road is essential but once they are properly set
> up,
> you forget them.
> If they are spitting they are not correctly set. (They might spit a bit on
> start up when cold)
>
> You will also need to  budget for body work modifications. You have to cut
> away the diagonal side brace, contrary to popular myth you do not need to
> cut
> out a piece of the shroud to change jets etc, although it does improve
> access
> to the stacks and whatever filters you put on.
>
> You will have to decide on a set of intake manifolds. You can get them from
> the usual suspects. Obviously Welch ones are popular and claim to be
> virtually
> identical to the ones used on the last works rally cars, although slightly
> shorter so they don't need to have support towers. AH Spares might be
> worth a
> look as they have been developing their performance parts in conjunction
> with
> Anders Schildt. Or rather its Anders Schildt who has been developing them.
> The
> longer intake manifolds on the works cars were probably the reason for the
> shroud cut out, but as mentioned, this is not necessary with most of the
> modern versions.
>
> If you are determined to blow all your christmas money you should consider
> switching to a cable throttle which is a big improvement. Beware though
> its a
> slippery slope!!!  next come the forged pistons, aluminium head, aluminium
> back plate, roller rockers, lightweight fly wheel and alumium pulley etc..
>
> Actually the DWR deep V pulley is a nice upgrade and not that costly.
>
> Good luck
>
> Derek
>
>
>
>
>
> On 13 Dec 2013, at 20:28, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
> > I am thinking about putting 3 webers or dellortos on my 3000.
> >
> > It has a big bore bunch of bananas exhaust and a Denis Welch fast road
> cam
> > so it's half way there, if you see what I mean.
> >
> > Now, wise gurus will say "if it ain't  broke, don't fix it" and one
> already
> > has! But these things have a dreadful fascination....a bit like Everest!
> >
> > So, in any particular order, what does your experience say?.....
> >
> > Dellortos or Webers?
> >
> > Which size/type? 45DCOE seems to be the Webers that most people mention
> or
> > sell. (Are they really made our of platinum?)
> >
> > Are there any 6 cyl cars out there whose inlet manifolds fit ours? ie the
> > Datsun 250Z or the (old) BMW 3.0? Certainly, the Datsun people seem to
> have
> > plenty of bits and pieces; if only they'd fit.
> >
> > What other tips?...
> >
> > A bit late, but it's amazing how responsive Father Christmas can be.....
> >
> > Simon
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
jerry wall  BN6
rowlett, tx
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 12:05:51 2013
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 10:32:14 -0800
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <52ab7293.6539320a.5bd2.18feSMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
	<1NF61n00v0NyJgq01NF7zy>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Great post Derek.

I've been reading and compiling anecdotal evidence for years and though I
haven't yet run my car I have a hypothesis that I'd sure like to prove once I
finally get around to running my car.

ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/healey_webers.jpg

That is very specific info on your carbs.

How is the rest of your engine? Overbored? Compression? Valves? Cam? Exhaust?

I'm still working a few hours a year for the last 15 years on my build.

Bored .030 over.
Schneider 2860 grind cam. (.425 lift, 260 degrees)
stock or works style tubular exhaust.
Australian style Redline short intake manifold like Chris Dimmock's
stock sized valves.
Polished mildly ported head

Are you just racing yours and how does it act around town?

Thanks,
Rick


On Dec 14, 2013, at 2:10 AM, Derek Job wrote:

> Simon
>
> The truth is that you really only need Webers for racing or competitionbut
so
> whatthey look fantasticso why not.
>
> I'm sure Kees will tell you to get Dellortos and he may be right, but
Webers
> are what everybody goes for.
>
> The most common set up is using 45 DCOE's with 36mm chokes. Mine use the
> following
>
> Choke 36mm
>
> Aux venturi  4.5
>
> Main jet 145
>
> air corrector 155
>
> emmulsion tubes f16
>
> Idle jet 55 f6
>
> needle valve 200
>
> pump jet  45
>
> pump spill 40
>
>
> Most of those came standard with the carbs out of the box, although a
couple
> of items were changed during the rolling road set up, the idle jet for one.
> Setting up on a rolling road is essential but once they are properly set
up,
> you forget them.
> If they are spitting they are not correctly set. (They might spit a bit on
> start up when cold)
>
> You will also need to  budget for body work modifications. You have to cut
> away the diagonal side brace, contrary to popular myth you do not need to
cut
> out a piece of the shroud to change jets etc, although it does improve
access
> to the stacks and whatever filters you put on.
>
> You will have to decide on a set of intake manifolds. You can get them from
> the usual suspects. Obviously Welch ones are popular and claim to be
virtually
> identical to the ones used on the last works rally cars, although slightly
> shorter so they don't need to have support towers. AH Spares might be worth
a
> look as they have been developing their performance parts in conjunction
with
> Anders Schildt. Or rather its Anders Schildt who has been developing them.
The
> longer intake manifolds on the works cars were probably the reason for the
> shroud cut out, but as mentioned, this is not necessary with most of the
> modern versions.
>
> If you are determined to blow all your christmas money you should consider
> switching to a cable throttle which is a big improvement. Beware though its
a
> slippery slope!!!  next come the forged pistons, aluminium head, aluminium
> back plate, roller rockers, lightweight fly wheel and alumium pulleyetc..
>
> Actually the DWR deep V pulley is a nice upgrade and not that costly.
>
> Good luck
>
> Derek
>
>
>
>
>
> On 13 Dec 2013, at 20:28, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:
>
>> I am thinking about putting 3 webers or dellortos on my 3000.
>>
>> It has a big bore bunch of bananas exhaust and a Denis Welch fast road cam
>> so it's half way there, if you see what I mean.
>>
>> Now, wise gurus will say "if it ain't  broke, don't fix it" and one
already
>> has! But these things have a dreadful fascination....a bit like Everest!
>>
>> So, in any particular order, what does your experience say?.....
>>
>> Dellortos or Webers?
>>
>> Which size/type? 45DCOE seems to be the Webers that most people mention or
>> sell. (Are they really made our of platinum?)
>>
>> Are there any 6 cyl cars out there whose inlet manifolds fit ours? ie the
>> Datsun 250Z or the (old) BMW 3.0? Certainly, the Datsun people seem to
have
>> plenty of bits and pieces; if only they'd fit.
>>
>> What other tips?...
>>
>> A bit late, but it's amazing how responsive Father Christmas can be.....
>>
>> Simon
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 10:57:38 -0800
Cc: Healey List <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <4176D622-A9D0-4390-87BB-4C773C83318F@bigpond.com>
	<8D0C62EFD2A4704-16A0-79AA@webmail-m259.sysops.aol.com>
	<1Bvy1n00D0NyJgq01BvzXK>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heat shield (Pics)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If anyone wants to attach a pic, send it to me and I can host it and provide a
link so that all can view it. You could also post it the forum and paste the
partial link (minus the "http://" part) and the list won't strip that.

Rick  Wilkins
"Wilko"

On Dec 13, 2013, at 3:28 PM, Earl Kagna wrote:

>
>
> I've attached a photo for you (and Gary), which I know the list will strip.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 13:40:55 2013
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From: Quentin Schweninger <quenty2@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 15:05:20 -0500
References: <818955895.17570514.1386939202004.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
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To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello Bob.
You mentioned below that there were sometimes problems with cap/rotor
combinations with the pertronix ignition. Apparently thats what I have.
The cap center contact hits the rotor, about .050 before it seats on the
distributor body.
This is a new cap, (Moss 874-060) on a 25D6.
 I called Pertronix and the first technician was curious and asked me to make
sure the Collar was down all the way,
and asked me to measure what was interfering and how much.
When I called back I got another Tech. who insisted that I didn't have the
collar pushed down far enough.
The collar is located vertically on the distributer shaft by resting on the
distributor cam.
This tech told me, "we have made thousands of these and never had a problem".
Is this similar to the problems you are referring to?

Dave
BN7 II Daisy


On Dec 13, 2013, at 11:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:

Pertronix makes modules for both. The 6-cyl module requires a 'collar' with
magnets that sits under the rotor (sometimes causing problems with some
rotor/cap combinations). The 4-cyl module does not require the collar;
apparently, it senses the movement of the cam lobes (the 4-cyl distributor is
smaller than the 6-cyl and I don't think there's room for the collar anyway).

Bob

----- Original Message -----

From: "Reinhart Rosner" <reinhart.rosner@aon.at>
To: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts@windstream.net>, healeys@autox.team.net, "Mitch"
<dayton21@comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, December 13, 2013 5:58:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition

Interesting question. In my 100 I still have points and have learnt how to
set the ignition - it's not too hard.

With the electronic ignition: Is there a difference if you have a 4- or a
6-cylinder car?

Reinhart


Reinhart Rosner
55 100 BN 1
Vienna - Austria
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/quenty2@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 13:46:32 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 12:07:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

------------------------------
On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 1:32 PM EST Jackson Krall wrote:

>
>
>Despite their reputation for high fuel consumption and not necessary for normal daily driving, I've wondered if it is possible to use the triple weber/dellortos tuned with economy in mind rather than ultimate performance and in conjunction with appropriate cam, headers/exhaust and achieve a bit better performance and better mpg? Anyone had any success in this direction?
>Best
>JK
>
>
>------------------------------
>On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 5:10 AM EST Derek Job wrote:
>
>>Simon
>>
>>The truth is that you really only need Webers for racing or competitionbut so
>>whatthey look fantasticso why not.
>>
>>I'm sure Kees will tell you to get Dellortos and he may be right, but Webers
>>are what everybody goes for.
>>
>>The most common set up is using 45 DCOE's with 36mm chokes. Mine use the
>>following
>>
>>Choke 36mm
>>
>>Aux venturi  4.5
>>
>>Main jet 145
>>
>>air corrector 155
>>
>>emmulsion tubes f16
>>
>>Idle jet 55 f6
>>
>>needle valve 200
>>
>>pump jet  45
>>
>>pump spill 40
>>
>>
>>Most of those came standard with the carbs out of the box, although a couple
>>of items were changed during the rolling road set up, the idle jet for one.
>>Setting up on a rolling road is essential but once they are properly set up,
>>you forget them.
>>If they are spitting they are not correctly set. (They might spit a bit on
>>start up when cold)
>>
>>You will also need to  budget for body work modifications. You have to cut
>>away the diagonal side brace, contrary to popular myth you do not need to cut
>>out a piece of the shroud to change jets etc, although it does improve access
>>to the stacks and whatever filters you put on.
>>
>>You will have to decide on a set of intake manifolds. You can get them from
>>the usual suspects. Obviously Welch ones are popular and claim to be virtually
>>identical to the ones used on the last works rally cars, although slightly
>>shorter so they don't need to have support towers. AH Spares might be worth a
>>look as they have been developing their performance parts in conjunction with
>>Anders Schildt. Or rather its Anders Schildt who has been developing them. The
>>longer intake manifolds on the works cars were probably the reason for the
>>shroud cut out, but as mentioned, this is not necessary with most of the
>>modern versions.
>>
>>If you are determined to blow all your christmas money you should consider
>>switching to a cable throttle which is a big improvement. Beware though its a
>>slippery slope!!!  next come the forged pistons, aluminium head, aluminium
>>back plate, roller rockers, lightweight fly wheel and alumium pulleyetc..
>>
>>Actually the DWR deep V pulley is a nice upgrade and not that costly.
>>
>>Good luck
>>
>>Derek
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>On 13 Dec 2013, at 20:28, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> I am thinking about putting 3 webers or dellortos on my 3000.
>>
>> It has a big bore bunch of bananas exhaust and a Denis Welch fast road cam
>> so it's half way there, if you see what I mean.
>>
>> Now, wise gurus will say "if it ain't  broke, don't fix it" and one already
>> has! But these things have a dreadful fascination....a bit like Everest!
>>
>> So, in any particular order, what does your experience say?.....
>>
>> Dellortos or Webers?
>>
>> Which size/type? 45DCOE seems to be the Webers that most people mention or
>> sell. (Are they really made our of platinum?)
>>
>> Are there any 6 cyl cars out there whose inlet manifolds fit ours? ie the
>> Datsun 250Z or the (old) BMW 3.0? Certainly, the Datsun people seem to have
>> plenty of bits and pieces; if only they'd fit.
>>
>> What other tips?...
>>
>> A bit late, but it's amazing how responsive Father Christmas can be.....
>>
>> Simon
>> ______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 14:12:26 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:57:55 +0100
To: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Webers=2C_dellortos?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Oh yes, this setup is called the triple HS4. It looks close to a Stromberg, SU setup, but don`t worry. Its the real Webers. Those who don`t believe, you need the buy the Weber labels to fit on them.

Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany

PS: I like these extremely rare trouble free premium Webers called SUs. 

-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
Datum: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:07:53 +0100
Von: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
An: healeys@autox.team.net

------------------------------
On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 1:32 PM EST Jackson Krall wrote:

>
>
>Despite their reputation for high fuel consumption and not necessary for normal daily driving, I've wondered if it is possible to use the triple weber/dellortos tuned with economy in mind rather than ultimate performance and in conjunction with appropriate cam, headers/exhaust and achieve a bit better performance and better mpg? Anyone had any success in this direction?
>Best
>JK
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 14:25:38 2013
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From: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Full-Name: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:09:48 GMT
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Curt Arndt
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Curt, Can you please contact me off the list. Lost all my email folders.
Thanks.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 13:22:39 -0800
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <52ab7293.6539320a.5bd2.18feSMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
	<1NF61n00v0NyJgq01NF7zy>
	<C0DFC113-C17B-410C-9174-52CE3366449F@cox.net>
	<1YaZ1n00E0ygGsS01Yb3Wv>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That sounds like a lot of fun, and a real racing car. Mine's a BN6 and I'm
building the 3000 engine.

What I'm theorizing is that for all around road use that I will get great
results in the driveability and still maintain good top end performance with
my setup using the 40DCOE  with 32mm chokes instead of the 45s with bigger
chokes. As with the same issue using the 12 port head on the stock 100 Six
engine (2.6 liters) there isn't enough gas velocity to get low speed torque or
horsepower with the bigger carbs and ports. The problem of coughing seemed to
go away with the 3000 (according to Geoffrey Healey and others). Weber
recommends (and many cars like the Alphas, ferrarris and such do quite well
with) a 40DCOE/32 chokes on 500cc chambers as a good benchmark--why should a
Healey need 45/35 for the same chamber? Sure that would be great for top end
breathing, but for normal driving the added velocity of the smaller chokes
should give the progression circuit a much needed boost.

I'm thinking that all (most) of the complaining of the Webers being too much
for the car and you lose street performance with them should go away with the
smaller carb.

Can you tell I really want to have that Weber "mojo" in my car?

I don't yet know what my actual compression ratio will be be as my head was
planed lightly (I don't remember how much) but my chambers were softened
around the sharp edges. I've never CC'd them but do expect a slight rise in
compression.

Other mods that I have that will affect performance are the ProRace balancer,
alloy back plate, Bill Bolton lightened flywheel, Toyota Trans kit, spin-on
oil filter, and Monza exhaust.



On Dec 14, 2013, at 12:35 PM, Derek Job wrote:

> Rick
>
> My car is a 100-Six but it has a BJ8 engine. When I bought the car it
already had a lot of nice goodies on it, including:
>
> -
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 13:26:06 -0800
Cc: "Healeys,  Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1387051673.99251.BPMail_high_carrier@web160705.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<1Z9i1n0130NyJgq01Z9kNC>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ah yes, the illusive Weber HS4.

I have a set of three of the HD6 or even three HD8 that I may run on this:

ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/engine_hd8.jpg

I also will try the 40DCOEs

On Dec 14, 2013, at 12:57 PM, josef-eckert@t-online.de wrote:

> Oh yes, this setup is called the triple HS4. It looks close to a Stromberg,
SU setup, but don`t worry. Its the real Webers. Those who don`t believe, you
need the buy the Weber labels to fit on them.
>
> Josef Eckert
> Konigswinter/Germany
>
> PS: I like these extremely rare trouble free premium Webers called SUs.
>
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
> Datum: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:07:53 +0100
> Von: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
> An: healeys@autox.team.net
>
> ------------------------------
> On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 1:32 PM EST Jackson Krall wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Despite their reputation for high fuel consumption and not necessary for
normal daily driving, I've wondered if it is possible to use the triple
weber/dellortos tuned with economy in mind rather than ultimate performance
and in conjunction with appropriate cam, headers/exhaust and achieve a bit
better performance and better mpg? Anyone had any success in this direction?
>> Best
>> JK
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 15:12:43 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:39:58 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Quentin Schweninger <quenty2@gmail.com>
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Thread-Topic: Points vs electronic ignition
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Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What I've heard--note: second/third-hand--is that the collar causes the rotor to ride too high; possibly causing the rotor to contact the terminals or inside of the cap. Again, I have heard of such problems--probably either here or on the forum--but have not experienced them myself. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Quentin Schweninger" <quenty2@gmail.com> 
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 12:05:20 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition 

Hello Bob. 
You mentioned below that there were sometimes problems with cap/rotor combinations with the pertronix ignition. Apparently thats what I have. 
The cap center contact hits the rotor, about .050 before it seats on the distributor body. 
This is a new cap, (Moss 874-060) on a 25D6. 
I called Pertronix and the first technician was curious and asked me to make sure the Collar was down all the way, 
and asked me to measure what was interfering and how much. 
When I called back I got another Tech. who insisted that I didn't have the collar pushed down far enough. 
The collar is located vertically on the distributer shaft by resting on the distributor cam. 
This tech told me, "we have made thousands of these and never had a problem". 
Is this similar to the problems you are referring to? 

Dave 
BN7 II Daisy 


On Dec 13, 2013, at 11:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: 

Pertronix makes modules for both. The 6-cyl module requires a 'collar' with magnets that sits under the rotor (sometimes causing problems with some rotor/cap combinations). The 4-cyl module does not require the collar; apparently, it senses the movement of the cam lobes (the 4-cyl distributor is smaller than the 6-cyl and I don't think there's room for the collar anyway). 

Bob 
mailman/options/healeys/quenty2@gmail.com 
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 22:25:56 +0000
References: <52ab7293.6539320a.5bd2.18feSMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
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To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I can't see any issue with using the 40DCOE/32 choke set up with the cam that
you have. And you shouldn't need a big compression increase with a 260 degree
cam. Should work well. The progression circuit can be a weak spot as you can
get a slight hesitation that can be difficult to eradicate. The more recent
models have four progression holes instead of three to alleviate this issue.
Mine only have three, I should have got the model with 4, (dumb!), however at
the moment I do not seem to have any progression problems.

Forget to mention that  when I got the car it had NGK 7 series plugs. I found
that these were too cold for just road and hill climbs and tended to oil up a
little. I switched to NGK 6 series and I find the car runs better.


Derek

I think there is a big misconception about Webers
On 14 Dec 2013, at 21:22, Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:

> That sounds like a lot of fun, and a real racing car. Mine's a BN6 and I'm
> building the 3000 engine.
>
> What I'm theorizing is that for all around road use that I will get great
> results in the driveability and still maintain good top end performance
with
> my setup using the 40DCOE  with 32mm chokes instead of the 45s with bigger
> chokes. As with the same issue using the 12 port head on the stock 100 Six
> engine (2.6 liters) there isn't enough gas velocity to get low speed torque
or
> horsepower with the bigger carbs and ports. The problem of coughing seemed
to
> go away with the 3000 (according to Geoffrey Healey and others). Weber
> recommends (and many cars like the Alphas, ferrarris and such do quite well
> with) a 40DCOE/32 chokes on 500cc chambers as a good benchmark--why should
a
> Healey need 45/35 for the same chamber? Sure that would be great for top
end
> breathing, but for normal driving the added velocity of the smaller chokes
> should give the progression circuit a much needed boost.
>
> I'm thinking that all (most) of the complaining of the Webers being too
much
> for the car and you lose street performance with them should go away with
the
> smaller carb.
>
> Can you tell I really want to have that Weber "mojo" in my car?
>
> I don't yet know what my actual compression ratio will be be as my head was
> planed lightly (I don't remember how much) but my chambers were softened
> around the sharp edges. I've never CC'd them but do expect a slight rise in
> compression.
>
> Other mods that I have that will affect performance are the ProRace
balancer,
> alloy back plate, Bill Bolton lightened flywheel, Toyota Trans kit, spin-on
> oil filter, and Monza exhaust.
>
>
>
> On Dec 14, 2013, at 12:35 PM, Derek Job wrote:
>
>> Rick
>>
>> My car is a 100-Six but it has a BJ8 engine. When I bought the car it
> already had a lot of nice goodies on it, including:
>>
>> -
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 16:10:11 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Gary R. Brierton'" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>,
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

Many thanks to everyone who responded.

Thanks to Gary Brierton who told me about his first AH that he bought in 1965
and to Scott Morris who sent me the Road & Track test and Canadian prices of
the 1965 BJ8.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia (Where it's summer and warm)

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary R. Brierton [mailto:gbrierton@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, 13 December 2013 12:03 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New

My first car was a new BJ8, purchased in Rockford, Illinois on April 4th 1965,
from Forest City Imported Cars, Ltd., 315 So. Church.  HBJ8L/30107 (British
Racing Green, Black interior). $3870-$ 320 bdiscountb +$ 154 btax,
license, etc.b = $3704.  Equipped with tonneau, wire wheels, overdrive,
white sidewall tires (!), windscreen washer, heater & seat belts.
GaryB

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New

G'day



I am writing a short piece on a 1965 BJ8.



Would anyone know the list price of a BJ8 in the first half of 1965?



Many thanks



Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
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From: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Full-Name: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 23:22:21 GMT
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Juno
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Is there anyone knowledgeable about Juno? Having problems. Please contact me
off the list. TIA. Cheers, Doug
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From: "Udo P" <mrjaja@cox.net>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "'Quentin Schweninger'"
	<quenty2@gmail.com>
References: <818955895.17570514.1386939202004.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<20131213081933.Q48E7.68566.root@pamxwww08-z01>
	<00c101cef80b$64cdca20$2e695e60$@aon.at>
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 15:30:58 -0800
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Content-Language: en-us
Cc: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points  vs  electronic ignition
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Actual, the magnet sleeve from Pertronix raised the rotor by 0.5mm and this
can cause the rotor cap contact. The second issue with the Pertronix is
sometimes that the baseplate and magnet sleeve is in contact. Friction
against the advance adjustment with no or late advance adjustment and
breaking of the rotor is the result. Ask me why I know this. I sold the
first BMW 6 cylinder units modified for Austin Healey 20 years ago before
Pertronix picked up on this market.

Udo Putzke
Putzkes-FAHRSPASS
www.putzkes-fahrspass.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 1:40 PM
To: Quentin Schweninger
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition

What I've heard--note: second/third-hand--is that the collar causes the
rotor to ride too high; possibly causing the rotor to contact the terminals
or inside of the cap. Again, I have heard of such problems--probably either
here or on the forum--but have not experienced them myself. 

Bob 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Quentin Schweninger" <quenty2@gmail.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "Healey List"
<healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 12:05:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Points vs electronic ignition 

Hello Bob. 
You mentioned below that there were sometimes problems with cap/rotor
combinations with the pertronix ignition. Apparently thats what I have. 
The cap center contact hits the rotor, about .050 before it seats on the
distributor body. 
This is a new cap, (Moss 874-060) on a 25D6. 
I called Pertronix and the first technician was curious and asked me to make
sure the Collar was down all the way, and asked me to measure what was
interfering and how much. 
When I called back I got another Tech. who insisted that I didn't have the
collar pushed down far enough. 
The collar is located vertically on the distributer shaft by resting on the
distributor cam. 
This tech told me, "we have made thousands of these and never had a
problem". 
Is this similar to the problems you are referring to? 

Dave
BN7 II Daisy 


On Dec 13, 2013, at 11:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: 

Pertronix makes modules for both. The 6-cyl module requires a 'collar' with
magnets that sits under the rotor (sometimes causing problems with some
rotor/cap combinations). The 4-cyl module does not require the collar;
apparently, it senses the movement of the cam lobes (the 4-cyl distributor
is smaller than the 6-cyl and I don't think there's room for the collar
anyway). 

Bob 
mailman/options/healeys/quenty2@gmail.com 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mrjaja@cox.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 16:38:35 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 15:31:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
To: 'Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Harmonic damper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I sent a message to the list which didn't seem to get through, so I'm trying again.

I noticed that the Dennis Welch harmonic damper/pulley requires some modification to the cross member.
Does the Moss product go straight on without any mods?

Stephen, BJ8
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 16:39:15 2013
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Full-Name: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:44:39 GMT
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Juno
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Is there anyone who may be an expert with Juno or email problems, in general?
Can you please contact me off the list. TIA. Cheers, Doug
_______________________________________________
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] How much is that 1965 Healey in the window?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am writing a short piece on a 1965 BJ8.



Would anyone know the list price of a BJ8 in the first half of 1965?



Many thanks



Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia





My NADA Car Appraisal Guide says $3,565. That's pretty much the price that I
remember, since I first started pricing them about that time.
Gary
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 16:13:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes Eric, your use of 40 dcoe's is more to the point of my question.
Josef, I understand your point and I'm sure we all love SU's but my question pertains to the use of Weber/Dellorto sidedraft twinchoke carbs and whether their seemingly superior design for use on the series of 3 twinports of our Westlake designed post Longbridge C series cylnder heads would provide better economy and performance when tuned for road use as opposed to splitting the flow of 2 or 3 single choke SU carbs. Just looking for facts, no need to cloud the atmosphere with nonsense.
Thanks
Best
JK
NYC

------------------------------
On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 4:26 PM EST Wilko2 wrote:

>Ah yes, the illusive Weber HS4.
>
>I have a set of three of the HD6 or even three HD8 that I may run on this:
>
>ewilkins.com/wilko/healeys/engine_hd8.jpg
>
>I also will try the 40DCOEs
>
>On Dec 14, 2013, at 12:57 PM, josef-eckert@t-online.de wrote:
>
>> Oh yes, this setup is called the triple HS4. It looks close to a Stromberg,
>SU setup, but don`t worry. Its the real Webers. Those who don`t believe, you
>need the buy the Weber labels to fit on them.
>>
>> Josef Eckert
>> Konigswinter/Germany
>>
>> PS: I like these extremely rare trouble free premium Webers called SUs.
>>
>> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Webers, dellortos
>> Datum: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:07:53 +0100
>> Von: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
>> An: healeys@autox.team.net
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 1:32 PM EST Jackson Krall wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Despite their reputation for high fuel consumption and not necessary for
>normal daily driving, I've wondered if it is possible to use the triple
>weber/dellortos tuned with economy in mind rather than ultimate performance
>and in conjunction with appropriate cam, headers/exhaust and achieve a bit
>better performance and better mpg? Anyone had any success in this direction?
>> Best
     JK
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 17:58:29 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 00:46:51 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: BN2 Passenger Seat
Thread-Index: ONXnZYM1rdxB+o8X1gF9nbyrLYA5QA==
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Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Fellow 4-banger owners, 

Does the passenger seat on a BN2 slide? Or, is it just bolted in with the wood packing strips? If so, what kind of bolts are appropriate (i.e. 'normal,' carriage, etc.). 

I ask because we took this car apart years ago and we've either lost the sliders or never had them. 

TIA, 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 18:16:22 2013
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 16:47:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello to all -

    I am new to the list and am in the process of working my
way throughout the refurbishment of a '57 100-6 Longbridge in Salt Lake City.
 This is a car that I want to retain some of the patina, and I WILL drive a
lot - I have the factory hard top and my driving season may very well extend
to year-round (dry weather permitting).  So this won't be a trailer queen.
 Attention is being paid to the 'typical' body places - doglegs, boot floor,
bottoms of fenders, cockpit floors, etc.  Of course, the inner sills and outer
rockers are in need of replacement and are coming up soon.  I have some
questions about the pitfalls of this task - i.e. door opening measurements, do
I need to brace the openings and if so, where, what to look out for, etc.  

 
  I have researched a lot on line and by reading books and have seen some
'restorations' being carried out using various methods and instructions.  I
have seen many pics that the doors just don't look quite right, or the swag
line doesn't quite line up.  My hope is that things will line up well enough
that I can duo-tone the paint.  This cars' frame and outriggers are very good
- most of the corrosion has been contained to the outer sheet metal so the
measurements of the inner sills and their attachment to the frame is not a
worry (I don't think).  I have a data chart with frame measurements.  The car
has been to the frame shop and is straight.  Again what I am looking for is
any info regarding this process, known issues, things to look out for, etc.  
    I look forward to your comments and dialog.  Cheers!

Darin 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1087.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1039.JPG]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 18:56:38 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 01:48:45 +0000 (UTC)
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
To: Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
References: <1387068426.80512.YahooMailNeo@web141405.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Darin,

If you look at a lot of restored Healeys--and photos of restored
Healeys--you'll notice that many have issues with door and lower sill
alignment (once you're aware of this problem it'll be the first thing you look
at on a Healey). All too often, 'dogleg' repairs aren't done right and the
cars have 'spurs' that jut out and down ahead of the rear wheels. Also, at one
time at least, the replacement outer sills had a straight bottom line, whereas
originals have a very slight upward curve (I can't think of any Healey body
line that is perfectly straight save for the door edges and neighboring fender
lines). Have heard Kilmartin is now making proper sills, but can't say for a
fact. The sills we got from Kilmartin may have a slight curve, or it may be an
illusion. Although Kilmartin sheetmetal is the best available, you will have
difficulty getting the new sills to line up exactly right (esp. the recessed
flange over which the fenders wrap). Get the dogleg repair pieces that have
the original wire bead (the cheaper ones just fold over the edge).

If you don't have a MIG welder, get one and get good with it. Rosette (aka
'plug') welds I feel are the best for use where spot welds were originally
used.

You likely have some body sag, probably on the driver's side. Unless you want
replace the chassis best you can do is split the difference on your gaps.

Fit everything up best you can before painting and, remember, everything's a
compromise.

Bob

----- Original Message -----

From: "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 4:47:06 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers

Hello to all -

I am new to the list and am in the process of working my
way throughout the refurbishment of a '57 100-6 Longbridge in Salt Lake City.
This is a car that I want to retain some of the patina, and I WILL drive a
lot - I have the factory hard top and my driving season may very well extend
to year-round (dry weather permitting). So this won't be a trailer queen.
Attention is being paid to the 'typical' body places - doglegs, boot floor,
bottoms of fenders, cockpit floors, etc. Of course, the inner sills and outer
rockers are in need of replacement and are coming up soon. I have some
questions about the pitfalls of this task - i.e. door opening measurements, do
I need to brace the openings and if so, where, what to look out for, etc.


I have researched a lot on line and by reading books and have seen some
'restorations' being carried out using various methods and instructions. I
have seen many pics that the doors just don't look quite right, or the swag
line doesn't quite line up. My hope is that things will line up well enough
that I can duo-tone the paint. This cars' frame and outriggers are very good
- most of the corrosion has been contained to the outer sheet metal so the
measurements of the inner sills and their attachment to the frame is not a
worry (I don't think). I have a data chart with frame measurements. The car
has been to the frame shop and is straight. Again what I am looking for is
any info regarding this process, known issues, things to look out for, etc.
I look forward to your comments and dialog. Cheers!

Darin
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 21:18:57 2013
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To: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 03:58:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?bj8_trans?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

went into a bj8 trans and discovered that 2nd gear had a bronze synchro that was toast.  i thought all synchros in bj8 were steel.  moss lists a different synchro for the bj8 so assume it is a steel one.  am i correct?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 21:55:14 2013
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From: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 22:45:34 -0600
To: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
	FILETIME=[806E5F60:01CEF950]
Cc: Healey List <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heat shield (Pics)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would like to see that as well since I hAve a beat shield but I don't think
I have adequate thread left on the bolts holding the spacers and carbs to
attach it. And, I have serious fuel vaporizing during summer driving.

Regards,
Richard C

Sent from IPhone

> On Dec 14, 2013, at 13:54, "Wilko2" <e-wilkins@cox.net> wrote:
>
> If anyone wants to attach a pic, send it to me and I can host it and provide
a
> link so that all can view it. You could also post it the forum and paste
the
> partial link (minus the "http://" part) and the list won't strip that.
>
> Rick  Wilkins
> "Wilko"
>
>> On Dec 13, 2013, at 3:28 PM, Earl Kagna wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> I've attached a photo for you (and Gary), which I know the list will
strip.
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2013 21:05:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

You never had them.

Mike MacLean

56 BN2
60 AN5
>________________________________
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
>To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013
4:46 PM
>Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat
> 
>
>Fellow 4-banger owners,
>
>Does the passenger seat on a BN2 slide? Or, is it just bolted in with the
wood packing strips? If so, what kind of bolts are appropriate (i.e. 'normal,'
carriage, etc.). 
>
>I ask because we took this car apart years ago and we've
either lost the sliders or never had them. 
>
>TIA, 
>
>Bob 
>
>-------------------------------- 
>Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive:
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>
>Healeys@autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 14 23:18:41 2013
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References: <1387063862.24021.YahooMailNeo@web122304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 16:59:41 +1100
To: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Harmonic damper
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't know which harmonic dampener Moss sells, but the pro-race dampener
goes on without modifying the cross member.
It's fine on a standard Healey crank, the DW one is better if you are pulling
over 6.500rpm with an aftermarket steel crankshaft.
#64295 in their catalogue www.pro-race.com/docs/Proracecatalog.pdf
I've had one on my 3000 since 1998. Shop around.......
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 15 Dec 2013, at 10:31 am, Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings@rogers.com>
wrote:
>
> I sent a message to the list which didn't seem to get through, so I'm trying
again.
>
> I noticed that the Dennis Welch harmonic damper/pulley requires some
modification to the cross member.
> Does the Moss product go straight on without any mods?
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 02:51:55 2013
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From: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "'Healey List'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1967346499.38913649.1387068348662.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
	<132699559.38913870.1387068411173.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 22:42:31 +1300
Thread-Index: Ac75UarZityp1TB/QT6LXIIjvSPNVQAJyrrg
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bob,

Only the driver's seat is adjustable.  The passenger seat is fixed.
I moved both of my seats on my BN2 as far back as they would go.
Still not quite enough room  . . .  but I'm 6' 2"   :-)

Just a thought  . . .  my car is RHD so the RH base is adjustable.
If you want to make your BN2 adjustable on both sides, try and find
yourself a RH base.

I can supply photos and specs of the wood packers if required.

Mark Donaldson
Auckland, NZ



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, 15 December 2013 1:47 p.m.
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat

Fellow 4-banger owners, 

Does the passenger seat on a BN2 slide? Or, is it just bolted in with
the wood packing strips? If so, what kind of bolts are appropriate
(i.e. 'normal,' carriage, etc.). 

I ask because we took this car apart years ago and we've either lost
the sliders or never had them. 

TIA, 

Bob 

-------------------------------- 
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 03:07:48 2013
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	<3018B250AA8E4B92B40F176B635C86E9@IBMD038403EC0B>
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 21:00:36 +1100
To: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

What a great idea Mark!!
We right hand drive owners can swap spare "adjustable drivers seat runners"
with our left hand drive mates!!! And end up with 2 adjustable seats!!
That's cool.
As I head out to the shed.... I'm thinking .......I'm pretty sure sprite seat
runners are the same as Big Healey.....
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

> On 15 Dec 2013, at 8:42 pm, "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness@xtra.co.nz>
wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> Only the driver's seat is adjustable.  The passenger seat is fixed.
> I moved both of my seats on my BN2 as far back as they would go.
> Still not quite enough room  . . .  but I'm 6' 2"   :-)
>
> Just a thought  . . .  my car is RHD so the RH base is adjustable.
> If you want to make your BN2 adjustable on both sides, try and find
> yourself a RH base.
>
> I can supply photos and specs of the wood packers if required.
>
> Mark Donaldson
> Auckland, NZ
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell@comcast.net]
> Sent: Sunday, 15 December 2013 1:47 p.m.
> To: Healey List
> Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat
>
> Fellow 4-banger owners,
>
> Does the passenger seat on a BN2 slide? Or, is it just bolted in with
> the wood packing strips? If so, what kind of bolts are appropriate
> (i.e. 'normal,' carriage, etc.).
>
> I ask because we took this car apart years ago and we've either lost
> the sliders or never had them.
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
> --------------------------------
> Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 05:30:01 2013
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From: "Gary R. Brierton" <gbrierton@hotmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <00d201cef798$522bb990$f6832cb0$@tpg.com.au>
	<COL129-DS225DA6D038ECFDA8C96CE0B3DF0@phx.gbl>
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 06:55:22 -0500
	FILETIME=[89679E10:01CEF98C]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I thought you would find the white-wall tire reference an especially
important (and entertaining) factoid ;<)
GaryB

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2013 5:27 PM
To: 'Gary R. Brierton' ; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New

G'day

Many thanks to everyone who responded.

Thanks to Gary Brierton who told me about his first AH that he bought in
1965 and to Scott Morris who sent me the Road & Track test and Canadian
prices of the 1965 BJ8.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia (Where it's summer and warm)

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary R. Brierton [mailto:gbrierton@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, 13 December 2013 12:03 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New

My first car was a new BJ8, purchased in Rockford, Illinois on April 4th
1965, from Forest City Imported Cars, Ltd., 315 So. Church.  HBJ8L/30107
(British Racing Green, Black interior). $3870-$ 320 bdiscountb +$ 154
btax,
license, etc.b = $3704.  Equipped with tonneau, wire wheels, overdrive,
white sidewall tires (!), windscreen washer, heater & seat belts.
GaryB

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2013 7:14 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Price When New

G'day



I am writing a short piece on a 1965 BJ8.



Would anyone know the list price of a BJ8 in the first half of 1965?



Many thanks



Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 06:36:13 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 13:15:15 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac75l6/lklhTBVeTSTaCovr2BJQ0Uw==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Webers' sizes.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Am watching the toing and froing on this topic with interest. I started it
after all..............

There seem to be so many types and sub-types. 

My aim is to buy them second hand and rebuild as necessary. Common sense
indicates buying a matched pair then a singleton to match them.

So, I look around and see, for example, 40 DCO "31". Now, is it too much to
hope that all DCOE 40s are the same, but that the 31 indicates the choke
size which can be altered to make it a 40 DCOE "35" or which and whatever?

Yes, I imagine that the basic bodies altered with the passage of time, but
surely something stamped on the body will indicate that one has a unit with
the potential to be made to match?

A pair and a singleton seems to be easier to find and more economical than a
triple set. And most triples seem to be 45s.... 

I'm not in a rush and will seek to assemble the necessaries over any period
until it's worth stripping down the car.

Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 06:45:35 2013
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From: "Auto Farm" <autofarm@wightman.ca>
To: <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20131215035836.29747.qmail@server278.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 07:47:56 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 trans
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	You are correct.  Not only are they steel, they are machined at a
different angle on the cone, so they are not interchangeable with the
bronze/brass units.
	Cheers...Bob
	Autofarm Ltd.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeymanjim@hansencc.net
Sent: December-14-13 10:59 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans

went into a bj8 trans and discovered that 2nd gear had a bronze synchro that
was toast.  i thought all synchros in bj8 were steel.  moss lists a
different synchro for the bj8 so assume it is a steel one.  am i correct?
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 06:59:41 2013
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To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 08:53:38 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Seat runners!!

Such decadence.

Michael S
BN1 #174 (With both seats firmly bolted down)

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
Sent: b2013-b12-b14 7:53 PM
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat

Fellow 4-banger owners,

Does the passenger seat on a BN2 slide? Or, is it just bolted in with the wood
packing strips? If so, what kind of bolts are appropriate (i.e. 'normal,'
carriage, etc.).

I ask because we took this car apart years ago and we've either lost the
sliders or never had them.

TIA,

Bob

--------------------------------
Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 07:22:15 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat
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Adjustable passenger seat rails were available as an option at the beginning
of 1954.
Aloha
Perry

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
Fellow 4-banger owners,

Does the passenger seat on a BN2 slide?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 09:05:45 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 10:53:53 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Darin,
Went through hell with my BT7 when I cut out the sills and rear shut
pieces.  The doors would not line up with the rear wings.  I'd left the
motor and trans in the car, to account for the sag. Didn't matter.  After
way too long I realized that cowl had moved (down and a bit forward) when
the siill had been removed (it's located on the lower edge to the sill).  I
cut the new sills off, got new ones and by using pipe clamps and a
come-along was able to get everything into alignment *before* re-welding.
It looks like s*"=t down there, but damn the doors line up!
My theory is that the Healey structure is really pretty stiff (never hear
about doors coming open), but they take a real beating (my frame rails are
all dented) and stresses build up which are released when a stressed member
is cut out.  Looking at the cowl I didn't think it could have moved.
The Kilmartin sills are nice.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
 On Dec 14, 2013 8:13 PM, "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hello to all -
>
>     I am new to the list and am in the process of working my
> way throughout the refurbishment of a '57 100-6 Longbridge in Salt Lake
> City.
>  This is a car that I want to retain some of the patina, and I WILL drive a
> lot - I have the factory hard top and my driving season may very well
> extend
> to year-round (dry weather permitting).  So this won't be a trailer queen.
>  Attention is being paid to the 'typical' body places - doglegs, boot
> floor,
> bottoms of fenders, cockpit floors, etc.  Of course, the inner sills and
> outer
> rockers are in need of replacement and are coming up soon.  I have some
> questions about the pitfalls of this task - i.e. door opening
> measurements, do
> I need to brace the openings and if so, where, what to look out for, etc.
>
>
>   I have researched a lot on line and by reading books and have seen some
> 'restorations' being carried out using various methods and instructions.  I
> have seen many pics that the doors just don't look quite right, or the swag
> line doesn't quite line up.  My hope is that things will line up well
> enough
> that I can duo-tone the paint.  This cars' frame and outriggers are very
> good
> - most of the corrosion has been contained to the outer sheet metal so the
> measurements of the inner sills and their attachment to the frame is not a
> worry (I don't think).  I have a data chart with frame measurements.  The
> car
> has been to the frame shop and is straight.  Again what I am looking for is
> any info regarding this process, known issues, things to look out for, etc.
>     I look forward to your comments and dialog.  Cheers!
>
> Darin
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_1087.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_1039.JPG]
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 10:15:49 2013
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 09:11:44 -0800
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1pZ91n0210NyJgq01pZBGx>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers' sizes.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had also posted questions about the Weber thing last week so I'm following
along too.

What I was able to get from eBay many years ago was a set of three 40DCOEs
that were taken from a Datsun Z conversion. I also got three DCOM which is a
more modern version with a diaphragm style accelerator pump that is supposed
to be better around town. There is a seller on eBay who specializes in selling
Alpha parts. His name on eBay is something like alpha1875. His prices can be
good, and he's helpful.

That number after after DCOE is the type and has nothing to do with anything
that anyone outside of Weber knows!

What that number indicates most is difference in the progression holes that
are the key to how the carb performs from idle to driving. These holes are
very small and run along the throttle body and let in more fuel as the
throttle plate is opened. Most of regular driving done with plates barely
opened so that's why this can make so much difference.



On Dec 15, 2013, at 5:15 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:

> Am watching the toing and froing on this topic with interest. I started it
> after all..............
>
> There seem to be so many types and sub-types.
>
> My aim is to buy them second hand and rebuild as necessary. Common sense
> indicates buying a matched pair then a singleton to match them.
>
> So, I look around and see, for example, 40 DCO "31". Now, is it too much to
> hope that all DCOE 40s are the same, but that the 31 indicates the choke
> size which can be altered to make it a 40 DCOE "35" or which and whatever?
>
> Yes, I imagine that the basic bodies altered with the passage of time, but
> surely something stamped on the body will indicate that one has a unit with
> the potential to be made to match?
>
> A pair and a singleton seems to be easier to find and more economical than
a
> triple set. And most triples seem to be 45s....
>
> I'm not in a rush and will seek to assemble the necessaries over any period
> until it's worth stripping down the car.
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 12:44:31 2013
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 19:39:12 +0000
	FILETIME=[5519D010:01CEF9CD]
Subject: [Healeys] Tired of trying to tune your Webers?
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone have some 45DCOE Webers they want to part with? I already have the
manifolds and throttle linkage. Just need the carbs.

Richard
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 13:51:56 -0600 (CST)
From: shepard7107@verizon.net
To: ahbt71@gmail.com, dkgraber85@yahoo.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 13:08:14 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 15:04:21 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: shepard7107@verizon.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yeah.  I've felt all the shakes too.  And sometimes it feels like the
chassis is part of the suspension.   But I've never heard of doors coming
open during hard driving - unlike some French and American cars that come
to mind.  Given the feeble latches we've got you'd think self-opening doors
would be part of our folklore.  I'm sure "rigid" is wrong ME term.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
On Dec 15, 2013 2:51 PM, <shepard7107@verizon.net> wrote:

> "My theory is that the Healey structure is really pretty stiff "  .......
> now that's a new one. At least to me. Been driving my BJ8 since 1973 and of
> the many things that have struck me about it in the last 40 years , that
> certainly ain't one of them.
>
> Merry Christmas
>
> Mike Shepard
> Baltimore Md
>
> On 12/15/13, Mike Tobin<ahbt71@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Darin,
> Went through hell with my BT7 when I cut out the sills and rear shut
> pieces. The doors would not line up with the rear wings. I'd left the
> motor and trans in the car, to account for the sag. Didn't matter. After
> way too long I realized that cowl had moved (down and a bit forward) when
> the siill had been removed (it's located on the lower edge to the sill). I
> cut the new sills off, got new ones and by using pipe clamps and a
> come-along was able to get everything into alignment *before* re-welding.
> It looks like s*"=t down there, but damn the doors line up!
> My theory is that the Healey structure is really pretty stiff (never hear
> about doors coming open), but they take a real beating (my frame rails are
> all dented) and stresses build up which are released when a stressed member
> is cut out. Looking at the cowl I didn't think it could have moved.
> The Kilmartin sills are nice.
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
> On Dec 14, 2013 8:13 PM, "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Hello to all -
> >
> > I am new to the list and am in the process of working my
> > way throughout the refurbishment of a '57 100-6 Longbridge in Salt Lake
> > City.
> > This is a car that I want to retain some of the patina, and I WILL drive
> a
> > lot - I have the factory hard top and my driving season may very well
> > extend
> > to year-round (dry weather permitting). So this won't be a trailer queen.
> > Attention is being paid to the 'typical' body places - doglegs, boot
> > floor,
> > bottoms of fenders, cockpit floors, etc. Of course, the inner sills and
> > outer
> > rockers are in need of replacement and are coming up soon. I have some
> > questions about the pitfalls of this task - i.e. door opening
> > measurements, do
> > I need to brace the openings and if so, where, what to look out for, etc.
> >
> >
> > I have researched a lot on line and by reading books and have seen some
> > 'restorations' being carried out using various methods and instructions.
> I
> > have seen many pics that the doors just don't look quite right, or the
> swag
> > line doesn't quite line up. My hope is that things will line up well
> > enough
> > that I can duo-tone the paint. This cars' frame and outriggers are very
> > good
> > - most of the corrosion has been contained to the outer sheet metal so
> the
> > measurements of the inner sills and their attachment to the frame is not
> a
> > worry (I don't think). I have a data chart with frame measurements. The
> > car
> > has been to the frame shop and is straight. Again what I am looking for
> is
> > any info regarding this process, known issues, things to look out for,
> etc.
> > I look forward to your comments and dialog. Cheers!
> >
> > Darin
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name
> of
> > IMG_1087.jpg]
> >
> > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name
> of
> > IMG_1039.JPG]
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbt71@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 13:19:32 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 15:14:37 -0500
From: Charley Braum <cbaustin@verizon.net>
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To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
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	<CAA-dtXbp_Omra0TZbfPtuEjh9H2ie6PX_hKXMxQD7RT_uL7Frw@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

         "But I've never heard of doors coming open during hard driving 
- unlike some French and American cars"

      You need to talk to Fred Crowley about holding his door shut at 
the Start-Finish turn at PVGP!!!

     Later,

     CB
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 13:39:46 2013
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	Mon, 16 Dec 2013 07:36:02 +1100
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Mike Tobin'" <ahbt71@gmail.com>, <shepard7107@verizon.net>
References: <16995368.57806.1387137116147.JavaMail.root@vznit170080>
	<CAA-dtXbp_Omra0TZbfPtuEjh9H2ie6PX_hKXMxQD7RT_uL7Frw@mail.gmail.com>
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

My first Austin-Healey was a BN1 in the early 1970s. It had been extensively
raced during the 1950s and by the flexing of the chassis/body you could tell
the car was definitely well used.

When I was using it in hillclimbs and the like with tight corners the right
hand door used to fly open right on the crucial point of the corner. 

Nothing that a barrel bolt from the local hardware store couldn't fix.

Then there was the 100S that had subframes and a body that used to sway with
the corners. That had barrel bolts too.

Austin-Healey chassis do flex considerably, which is the reason why
Kilmartins offer a chassis with an extra piece of vertical metal in the
middle. 

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mike Tobin
Sent: Monday, 16 December 2013 7:04 AM
To: shepard7107@verizon.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers

Yeah.  I've felt all the shakes too.  And sometimes it feels like the
chassis is part of the suspension.   But I've never heard of doors coming
open during hard driving - unlike some French and American cars that come to
mind.  Given the feeble latches we've got you'd think self-opening doors
would be part of our folklore.  I'm sure "rigid" is wrong ME term.
Cheers,
Mike Tobin
On Dec 15, 2013 2:51 PM, <shepard7107@verizon.net> wrote:

> "My theory is that the Healey structure is really pretty stiff "  .......
> now that's a new one. At least to me. Been driving my BJ8 since 1973 
> and of the many things that have struck me about it in the last 40 
> years , that certainly ain't one of them.
>
> Merry Christmas
>
> Mike Shepard
> Baltimore Md
>
> On 12/15/13, Mike Tobin<ahbt71@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Darin,
> Went through hell with my BT7 when I cut out the sills and rear shut 
> pieces. The doors would not line up with the rear wings. I'd left the 
> motor and trans in the car, to account for the sag. Didn't matter. 
> After way too long I realized that cowl had moved (down and a bit 
> forward) when the siill had been removed (it's located on the lower 
> edge to the sill). I cut the new sills off, got new ones and by using 
> pipe clamps and a come-along was able to get everything into alignment
*before* re-welding.
> It looks like s*"=t down there, but damn the doors line up!
> My theory is that the Healey structure is really pretty stiff (never 
> hear about doors coming open), but they take a real beating (my frame 
> rails are all dented) and stresses build up which are released when a 
> stressed member is cut out. Looking at the cowl I didn't think it could
have moved.
> The Kilmartin sills are nice.
> Cheers,
> Mike Tobin
> On Dec 14, 2013 8:13 PM, "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Hello to all -
> >
> > I am new to the list and am in the process of working my way 
> > throughout the refurbishment of a '57 100-6 Longbridge in Salt Lake 
> > City.
> > This is a car that I want to retain some of the patina, and I WILL 
> > drive
> a
> > lot - I have the factory hard top and my driving season may very 
> > well extend to year-round (dry weather permitting). So this won't be 
> > a trailer queen.
> > Attention is being paid to the 'typical' body places - doglegs, boot 
> > floor, bottoms of fenders, cockpit floors, etc. Of course, the inner 
> > sills and outer rockers are in need of replacement and are coming up 
> > soon. I have some questions about the pitfalls of this task - i.e. 
> > door opening measurements, do I need to brace the openings and if 
> > so, where, what to look out for, etc.
> >
> >
> > I have researched a lot on line and by reading books and have seen 
> > some 'restorations' being carried out using various methods and
instructions.
> I
> > have seen many pics that the doors just don't look quite right, or 
> > the
> swag
> > line doesn't quite line up. My hope is that things will line up well 
> > enough that I can duo-tone the paint. This cars' frame and 
> > outriggers are very good
> > - most of the corrosion has been contained to the outer sheet metal 
> > so
> the
> > measurements of the inner sills and their attachment to the frame is 
> > not
> a
> > worry (I don't think). I have a data chart with frame measurements. 
> > The car has been to the frame shop and is straight. Again what I am 
> > looking for
> is
> > any info regarding this process, known issues, things to look out 
> > for,
> etc.
> > I look forward to your comments and dialog. Cheers!
> >
> > Darin
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 15:56:31 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Thread Chasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The threads on the crank and cam ends are munged up.  The previous
re-builder and his damn cold chisel.
The crank nut will just get started but the cam nut won't even do that. I
bought new nuts and it didn't get any better. I can see the bad spots, but
I don't have a die or thread chaser near big enough for these and I don't
want to force them for fear of just making things worse.
Do I have to buy dies for this?  If so what size.
Other suggestions?
Thanks,
Mike Tobin
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 13:08:38 -0800
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1vhD1n0170NyJgq01vhES6>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tired of trying to tune your Webers?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We just missed a set went for USD 750.00. The guy "didn't like the sound" of
his Healey with them!

Wilko


On Dec 15, 2013, at 11:39 AM, richard mayor wrote:

> Anyone have some 45DCOE Webers they want to part with? I already have the
> manifolds and throttle linkage. Just need the carbs.
>
> Richard
> _______________________________________________
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>
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	<s85sa99uqo9rlh69f7q7ihu9oj18jo6sts@4ax.com>
To: rwil@sbcglobal.net, healeys@autox.team.net
From: healeyguy@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just to clarify, the 100 seats were not adjustable, except for unbolting the
seats from the floor pan, until car number  C.149952 / body no B1001 which was
during December 1953.  Adjustable drivers seat rails were added at that point
in time and the passenger seat had a 3/4 inch piece of wood added at each
attachment to bring the passenger seat up to the same height as the drivers
seat. The passenger seat with adjustable rail was an option at that point.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: rwil <rwil@sbcglobal.net>
To: healeyguy <healeyguy@aol.com>
Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2013 3:51 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Passenger Seat


Hi Perry,
I think my November '53 BN1 came without even wood spacers, let alone
djustable rails, for both driver and passenger.  Do you think that
eat rails were optional for the driver's seat in late '53?  If so and
 could document it, I could put seat rails in my car.
Hope you are staying warm.
-Roland
N1 #724
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike
Get a thread file with the correct threads per inch and carefully clean up the
damage. If the threads are crushed axially from dropping the cam on its end
this may not work but a cold chisel mark should clean up.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>

The threads on the crank and cam ends are munged up.  The previous
e-builder and his damn cold chisel.
he crank nut will just get started but the cam nut won't even do that. I
ought new nuts and it didn't get any better. I can see the bad spots, but
 don't have a die or thread chaser near big enough for these and I don't
ant to force them for fear of just making things worse.
o I have to buy dies for this?  If so what size.
ther suggestions?
hanks,
ike Tobin
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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	<6.2.3.4.2.20131215131816.0205bed0@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 16:28:16 -0500
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thread Chasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Perry , John,
Thanks.  Duh!  I've got such tool, but never used it.  Now, if I can just
find it.
Mike
On Dec 15, 2013 4:25 PM, "john spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I can't recall the TPI for the crank and cam shaft. However, check to see
> if you can get a thread restore tool with the TPI you need. It is a square
> file with eight different thread sizes. There are at least two different
> ones that restore 9, 10, 12, 16, 20, 27, 28 and 32 TPI and 11, 12, 13, 14,
> 16, 18, 20 and 24 TPI. They are not expensive and hardware stores usually
> have at least one of them.
>
> John
>
> At 03:56 PM 12/15/2013 -0500, Mike Tobin wrote:
>
>> The threads on the crank and cam ends are munged up.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 14:36:23 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 13:32:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: ahbt71@gmail.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thread Chasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike, a small triangular file or the edge of a flat file can usually be used to clean up bodged threads.
Best
JK



------------------------------
On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 3:56 PM EST Mike Tobin wrote:

>The threads on the crank and cam ends are munged up.  The previous
>re-builder and his damn cold chisel.
>The crank nut will just get started but the cam nut won't even do that. I
>bought new nuts and it didn't get any better. I can see the bad spots, but
>I don't have a die or thread chaser near big enough for these and I don't
>want to force them for fear of just making things worse.
>Do I have to buy dies for this?  If so what size.
>Other suggestions?
>Thanks,
>Mike Tobin
>_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 14:51:46 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 22:44:34 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAA-dtXasPvMt7FsWMGMtFXcQURqRVZEh=1y87kOCRdrhxKmN4Q@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thread Chasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Try a thread file and go easy about it, bit by bit.
Kees Oudesluijs

Mike Tobin schreef op 15-12-2013 21:56:
> The threads on the crank and cam ends are munged up.  The previous
> re-builder and his damn cold chisel.
> The crank nut will just get started but the cam nut won't even do that. I
> bought new nuts and it didn't get any better. I can see the bad spots, but
> I don't have a die or thread chaser near big enough for these and I don't
> want to force them for fear of just making things worse.
> Do I have to buy dies for this?  If so what size.
> Other suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Mike Tobin
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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>
>
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 12:26:16 -0500
From: Bob <robertlarson@att.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>,  "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAA-dtXasPvMt7FsWMGMtFXcQURqRVZEh=1y87kOCRdrhxKmN4Q@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thread Chasing
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Mike,

             I do not present this as a cure all but have had success with their 
older Nes1 tool:

http://www.nes.co.il/

            My tool is marked as 60 degrees, not the 55 degrees of the Whitworth 
form but it has
saved a few British motorcycle parts with the Whitworth thread form.

             Food for thought and a possible option.

Bob
55 BN1




On 12/15/2013 3:56 PM, Mike Tobin wrote:
> The threads on the crank and cam ends are munged up.  The previous
> re-builder and his damn cold chisel.
> The crank nut will just get started but the cam nut won't even do that. I
> bought new nuts and it didn't get any better. I can see the bad spots, but
> I don't have a die or thread chaser near big enough for these and I don't
> want to force them for fear of just making things worse.
> Do I have to buy dies for this?  If so what size.
> Other suggestions?
> Thanks,
> Mike Tobin
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 15:06:43 2013
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From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thread Chasing
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Perry,  You can try the thread file and or a set of what I call
jeweler's files or other wise known as needle files,  Harbor Freight
has several sets of "Precision Needle File Sets" that range from $3.49
to $7.99.  Bye the way, thread files come in two sets, so be careful
about the thread pitch you chose.  Take a machinists scale and count
the threads.  I don't now if the threads are S.A.E. or British
standard.  The needle files may be the best bet if the thread files
don't have the correct pitch.

Larry
'67 BJ8



-----Original Message-----
From: healeyguy <healeyguy@aol.com>
To: ahbt71 <ahbt71@gmail.com>; healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2013 4:17 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thread Chasing


Mike
Get a thread file with the correct threads per inch and carefully clean
up the
damage. If the threads are crushed axially from dropping the cam on its
end
this may not work but a cold chisel mark should clean up.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>

The threads on the crank and cam ends are munged up.  The previous
e-builder and his damn cold chisel.
he crank nut will just get started but the cam nut won't even do that. I
ought new nuts and it didn't get any better. I can see the bad spots,
but
 don't have a die or thread chaser near big enough for these and I don't
ant to force them for fear of just making things worse.
o I have to buy dies for this?  If so what size.
ther suggestions?
hanks,
ike Tobin
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k@aim.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 15:09:39 2013
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 14:04:25 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike:  It has been part of my Healey folklore but not due to hard driving. 
Two times the door latch in the driver's door has worn out just from age and 
use.  I drove home from southern California several years ago with a bungee 
cord between the driver and passenger door pulls.

I take it apart, build up the surface of the 'catch' (?), and reassemble. 
The part is not available.  I think it is the un-numbered piece that is 
sticking up from the Remote Control Assembly (Moss item 40 in the Doors and 
Fittings diagram.  Also N/A).  A pain in the butt to get in and out of the 
door but is repairable even if only temporarily.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Tobin" <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: <shepard7107@verizon.net>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2013 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers


> .   But I've never heard of doors coming
> open during hard driving - .... Given the feeble latches we've got you'd 
> think self-opening doors would be part of our folklore.

> Mike Tobin
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From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thom Kovacs of Fourintune in WI explained to me a few years ago that he prefers to make his own inner sills out of 16 ga., rather than the 18 ga. that is standard. I plan on doing this to projects I'm working on. This, combined with Kilmartin "web" design style chassis rails, a hoop at bulkhead trans opening and a few gussets here and there should stiffen the structure nicely
Best
JK


------------------------------
On Sun, Dec 15, 2013 3:36 PM EST Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:

>G'day
>
>My first Austin-Healey was a BN1 in the early 1970s. It had been extensively
>raced during the 1950s and by the flexing of the chassis/body you could tell
>the car was definitely well used.
>
>When I was using it in hillclimbs and the like with tight corners the right
>hand door used to fly open right on the crucial point of the corner. 
>
>Nothing that a barrel bolt from the local hardware store couldn't fix.
>
>Then there was the 100S that had subframes and a body that used to sway with
>the corners. That had barrel bolts too.
>
>Austin-Healey chassis do flex considerably, which is the reason why
>Kilmartins offer a chassis with an extra piece of vertical metal in the
>middle. 
>
>Hoo Roo
>
>Patrick Quinn
>Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>On Behalf Of Mike Tobin
>Sent: Monday, 16 December 2013 7:04 AM
>To: shepard7107@verizon.net
>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
>
>Yeah.  I've felt all the shakes too.  And sometimes it feels like the
>chassis is part of the suspension.   But I've never heard of doors coming
>open during hard driving - unlike some French and American cars that come to
>mind.  Given the feeble latches we've got you'd think self-opening doors
>would be part of our folklore.  I'm sure "rigid" is wrong ME term.
>Cheers,
>Mike Tobin
>On Dec 15, 2013 2:51 PM, <shepard7107@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> "My theory is that the Healey structure is really pretty stiff "  .......
>> now that's a new one. At least to me. Been driving my BJ8 since 1973 
>> and of the many things that have struck me about it in the last 40 
>> years , that certainly ain't one of them.
>>
>> Merry Christmas
>>
>> Mike Shepard
>> Baltimore Md
>>
>> On 12/15/13, Mike Tobin<ahbt71@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Darin,
>> Went through hell with my BT7 when I cut out the sills and rear shut 
>> pieces. The doors would not line up with the rear wings. I'd left the 
>> motor and trans in the car, to account for the sag. Didn't matter. 
>> After way too long I realized that cowl had moved (down and a bit 
>> forward) when the siill had been removed (it's located on the lower 
>> edge to the sill). I cut the new sills off, got new ones and by using 
>> pipe clamps and a come-along was able to get everything into alignment
>*before* re-welding.
>> It looks like s*"=t down there, but damn the doors line up!
>> My theory is that the Healey structure is really pretty stiff (never 
>> hear about doors coming open), but they take a real beating (my frame 
>> rails are all dented) and stresses build up which are released when a 
>> stressed member is cut out. Looking at the cowl I didn't think it could
>have moved.
>> The Kilmartin sills are nice.
>> Cheers,
>> Mike Tobin
>> On Dec 14, 2013 8:13 PM, "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Hello to all -
>> >
>> > I am new to the list and am in the process of working my way 
>> > throughout the refurbishment of a '57 100-6 Longbridge in Salt Lake 
>> > City.
>> > This is a car that I want to retain some of the patina, and I WILL 
>> > drive
>> a
>> > lot - I have the factory hard top and my driving season may very 
>> > well extend to year-round (dry weather permitting). So this won't be 
>> > a trailer queen.
>> > Attention is being paid to the 'typical' body places - doglegs, boot 
>> > floor, bottoms of fenders, cockpit floors, etc. Of course, the inner 
>> > sills and outer rockers are in need of replacement and are coming up 
>> > soon. I have some questions about the pitfalls of this task - i.e. 
>> > door opening measurements, do I need to brace the openings and if 
>> > so, where, what to look out for, etc.
>> >
>> >
>> > I have researched a lot on line and by reading books and have seen 
>> > some 'restorations' being carried out using various methods and
>instructions.
>> I
>> > have seen many pics that the doors just don't look quite right, or 
>> > the
>> swag
>> > line doesn't quite line up. My hope is that things will line up well 
>> > enough that I can duo-tone the paint. This cars' frame and 
>> > outriggers are very good
>> > - most of the corrosion has been contained to the outer sheet metal 
>> > so
>> the
>> > measurements of the inner sills and the
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 15:23:03 2013
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From: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
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Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 22:52:26 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac7538xldDWLdfFTRy6p2ygEbvgOXw==
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Subject: [Healeys] Weber restoration service in Europe?
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,
Speaking about Webers, anyone knows who might be good to contact for
restoring Webers (preferably in Europe)??

Tadek
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To: ahbt71@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thread Chasing
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm resending this due to the first reply got bounced by the system
monitor.

Mike,  You can try the thread file and or a set of what I call
jeweler's files or other wise known as needle files,  Harbor Freight
has several sets of "Precision Needle File Sets" that range from $3.49
to $7.99.  Bye the way, thread files come in two sets, so be careful
about the thread pitch you chose.  Take a machinists scale and count
the threads.  I don't now if the threads are S.A.E. or British
standard.  The needle files may be the best bet if the thread files
don't have the correct pitch.

Larry
'67 BJ8



-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>

The threads on the crank and cam ends are munged up.  The previous
e-builder and his damn cold chisel.
he crank nut will just get started but the cam nut won't even do that. I
ought new nuts and it didn't get any better. I can see the bad spots,
but
 don't have a die or thread chaser near big enough for these and I don't
ant to force them for fear of just making things worse.
o I have to buy dies for this?  If so what size.
ther suggestions?
hanks,
ike Tobin
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 16:09:57 2013
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To: ahbt71@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
From: Larry Wendland <bighealey3k@aim.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thread Chasing
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Mike,  I have the two thread files in my hands now.  They are made by
"Blue-Point" part numbers "TF-1124" and "TF1127.  1124 has pitches 11,
12, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 24.  1127 has pitches 9, 10, 15, 16, 20, 26,
28 & 32.  The teeth are not that sharp and are good for cleaning up
lightly damaged threads but not good for cutting new threads on heavily
damaged ones.  If the correct die isn't available, the needle files are
a better bet and lots of patients.

Larry
'67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Tobin <ahbt71@gmail.com>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2013 3:56 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Thread Chasing


The threads on the crank and cam ends are munged up.  The previous
re-builder and his damn cold chisel.
The crank nut will just get started but the cam nut won't even do that.
bought new nuts and it didn't get any better. I can see the bad spots,
but
I don't have a die or thread chaser near big enough for these and I
don't
want to force them for fear of just making things worse.
Do I have to buy dies for this?  If so what size.
Other suggestions?
Thanks,
Mike Tobin
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 16:27:52 2013
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 00:23:57 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20131215035836.29747.qmail@server278.com>
	<001c01cef993$e4da8d00$ae8fa700$@ca>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 trans
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi
Yes, that's right. And the cone on the gears have a layer of molybdenum, 
wich makes the surface a little rough in contrast to the earlier gears 
which a shining blank.

Per

Auto Farm skrev 2013-12-15 13:47:
> 	You are correct.  Not only are they steel, they are machined at a
> different angle on the cone, so they are not interchangeable with the
> bronze/brass units.
> 	Cheers...Bob
> 	Autofarm Ltd.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of healeymanjim@hansencc.net
> Sent: December-14-13 10:59 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] bj8 trans
>
> went into a bj8 trans and discovered that 2nd gear had a bronze synchro that
> was toast.  i thought all synchros in bj8 were steel.  moss lists a
> different synchro for the bj8 so assume it is a steel one.  am i correct?
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 15 21:36:32 2013
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From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 20:31:07 -0800
To: "healeymanjim@hansencc.net" <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 trans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes the bronze synchro is not for the BJ8 gearbox. However they are for the
MKII thru the BJ7. Are you sure that it is a later BJ8 gearbox. Check the
number on the cluster gear, also the later box the bearings for the lay shaft
are caged.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 14, 2013, at 7:58 PM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:
>
> went into a bj8 trans and discovered that 2nd gear had a bronze synchro that
was toast.  i thought all synchros in bj8 were steel.  moss lists a different
synchro for the bj8 so assume it is a steel one.  am i correct?
> _______________________________________________
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>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 00:05:44 2013
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 08:01:42 +0100
To: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>, "Healeys, 
	Forum" <Healeys@autox.team.net>
From: "josef-eckert@t-online.de" <josef-eckert@t-online.de>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Weber_restoration_service_in__Europe=3F?=
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Tadek,
I can recommend http://www.di-michele.de/.

Josef

-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: [Healeys] Weber restoration service in Europe?
Datum: Sun, 15 Dec 2013 22:52:26 +0100
Von: "Tadeusz Malkiewicz" <Tadeusz.Malkiewicz@plusnet.pl>
An: <healeys@autox.team.net>

Hello,
Speaking about Webers, anyone knows who might be good to contact for
restoring Webers (preferably in Europe)??

Tadek
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 00:58:06 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

But that car doesn't have an overdrive. I'm going with relay for lights. With
switches for left and right separately, plus number illumination.

On Dec 11, 2013, at 10:39 AM, Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:

> Andy
> a. Overdrive relay
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 01:57:06 2013
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 09:53:01 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Weber restoration service in Europe?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Unless Webers or DellOrto's are very rough there is not much to restore. 
They are simple items that can be easily dismantled, cleaned and rebuild 
using readily available (ebay) rebuild kits containing all the necessary 
O-rings, float valves, gaskets, springs, diaphragms etc. There is not 
much that can wear out if you have the carbs with diaphragms in the 
acceleration pumps. If Webers have pistons in the acceleration pumps 
this can be a bit tricky are they can be badly corroded.
The ball bearings for the spindles are standard items, out of my head 
607-2RS or 627-2RS and are bought in packs of 10 for pennies in China 
through ebay, incl. shipping. Quality, if at all questionable, has no 
relevance here, there is barely any load on them. If they operate 
smoothly leave well alone and do not dismantle the butterfly valves.
Try to get carbs with the proper jetting and chokes. Jets and chokes are 
available but you always need a pack of 4 or 6 and there are a lot of 
different jets in each carb.
I have rebuild many DellOrto's without any problems. Just take your time 
and do one at the time so you have a reference if you get confused. Make 
sure you use the correct O-ring at a given position. There a quite a few 
very small ones that have different dimensions!!

Very good are BCCP in the Netherlands, their work is the best I have 
ever seen but they are bloody expensive :

http://www.bccp.nl/uk/indexgb.htm



Kees Oudesluijs





Tadeusz Malkiewicz schreef op 15-12-2013 22:52:
> Hello,
> Speaking about Webers, anyone knows who might be good to contact for
> restoring Webers (preferably in Europe)??
>
> Tadek
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
> -----
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 03:57:46 2013
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 10:50:20 +0000 (GMT)
From: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Sump Plug Thread type and size.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello everyone, can someone help me with the size and thread type for a BN1
1954 Healey sump plug, I have looked in both the workshop manual and parts
list but cannot find the details i want to order a magentic sump plug from a
local UK store but need to give them the details. I have a standard sump
(original fitted) but as the car is running I cannot take out the existing
plug, without needing to darin the oil.
 
Thanks in advance for any help with
this matter.
 
Regards
 
Stephen
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 06:26:20 2013
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <20131215035836.29747.qmail@server278.com>
	<F7EAEF56-0A34-40BB-8F1A-90ACDAF39806@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 08:21:42 -0500
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Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 trans
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

BJ8 gearboxes have an "M" stamped above the gearbox serial number (on the
raised "boss" in the middle of one of the "waffles" on the passenger's side
(LHD cars) of the box).

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock British Car Specialists
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2013 11:31 PM
To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] bj8 trans

Yes the bronze synchro is not for the BJ8 gearbox. However they are for the
MKII thru the BJ7. Are you sure that it is a later BJ8 gearbox. Check the
number on the cluster gear, also the later box the bearings for the lay
shaft are caged.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 06:35:11 2013
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From: "Ge" <gaagten@gmail.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 14:31:30 +0100
Thread-Index: Ac76YsuIFMSprfXvS3q2a6HrovqbBw==
Content-Language: nl
Subject: [Healeys] X-mas
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello forum,

I am looking for a X-mas card (preferable Moving) with some healey content.

Regards,

Ge Aagten,

The Netherlands

BJ8
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 06:41:17 2013
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	<B1BC1DA0-735D-4124-9B58-714D96FA153D@cox.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net, e-wilkins@cox.net
From: healeyguy@aol.com
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Please go to the auction web site once again and enlarge the interior photo of
the dashboard.  To the right of the dash you will see an standard O/D switch.
Whether the car has a O/D hanging on the back of the gearbox, I can't say, but
it appears to be wired for an O/D including the O/D relay on the firewall.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>

But that car doesn't have an overdrive. I'm going with relay for lights. With
witches for left and right separately, plus number illumination.
On Dec 11, 2013, at 10:39 AM, Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
> Andy
 a. Overdrive relay
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 06:45:41 2013
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References: <1387191020.65305.YahooMailNeo@web87402.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 05:42:05 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Sump Plug Thread type and size.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Stephen,

Off the top of my head it will be a Whitworth fastener, BSP or British
Standard Pipe to be specific.  I will check later this week with the exact
size.

Cheers,

Curt


On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 2:50 AM, STEPHEN CUSS <stephen.j.cuss@btinternet.com
> wrote:

> Hello everyone, can someone help me with the size and thread type for a BN1
> 1954 Healey sump plug, I have looked in both the workshop manual and parts
> list but cannot find the details i want to order a magentic sump plug from
> a
> local UK store but need to give them the details. I have a standard sump
> (original fitted) but as the car is running I cannot take out the existing
> plug, without needing to darin the oil.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help with
> this matter.
>
> Regards
>
> Stephen
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 06:50:46 2013
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 08:47:03 -0500
From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.net>
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	Thunderbird/17.0.10
To: Ge <gaagten@gmail.com>, Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <005901cefa63$222fb020$668f1060$@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] X-mas
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ge,

I assume by "Moving" that the car is in running condition, not up on 
jack stands.  Or did you mean a digital card?

Rothbury Publishing (UK) has several cards with Healeys.  You'll have to 
look through all the cards.  The search for "Healey" only comes up with 
a couple of cards.  Here's one: 
http://rothburypublishing.com/christmas-healey-162931453.html

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 12/16/2013 08:31 AM, Ge wrote:
> Hello forum,
>
> I am looking for a X-mas card (preferable Moving) with some healey content.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ge Aagten,
>
> The Netherlands
>
> BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 07:10:58 2013
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From: "Andy" <sneddon@xsmail.com>
To: <healeyguy@aol.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000901cef692$c0960b80$41c22280$@com> <0KTr1n01X0NyJgq01KTss8>
	<B1BC1DA0-735D-4124-9B58-714D96FA153D@cox.net>
	<8D0C87B126FD827-1B88-13DDA@webmail-vm021.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 14:04:23 -0000
thread-index: Ac76ZAK97NSf0BUAQGGBWX4UgkJS4QAAqg+Q
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Perry,

 You are right it does have the Overdrive escutcheon on the dash, however
looking at the wiring colours coming from the relay on the bulkhead, mostly
greens, with a yellow / green?, would these not be whites, if on the OD?.
Then again I have a similar bulkhead shot of one of the FAC cars and
although the electrical layout is similar, the wire colours to each piece of
equipment are different!

Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of healeyguy@aol.com
Sent: 16 December 2013 13:37
To: healeys@autox.team.net; e-wilkins@cox.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's

Please go to the auction web site once again and enlarge the interior photo
of the dashboard.  To the right of the dash you will see an standard O/D
switch.
Whether the car has a O/D hanging on the back of the gearbox, I can't say,
but it appears to be wired for an O/D including the O/D relay on the
firewall.
Aloha
Perry



-----Original Message-----
From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>

But that car doesn't have an overdrive. I'm going with relay for lights.
With witches for left and right separately, plus number illumination.
On Dec 11, 2013, at 10:39 AM, Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
> Andy
 a. Overdrive relay
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sneddon@xsmail.com


-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6924 - Release Date: 12/16/13
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 08:59:42 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 07:55:16 -0800
Cc: healeys Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000901cef692$c0960b80$41c22280$@com> <0KTr1n01X0NyJgq01KTss8>
	<B1BC1DA0-735D-4124-9B58-714D96FA153D@cox.net>
	<8D0C87B126FD827-1B88-13DDA@webmail-vm021.sysops.aol.com>
	<2E7e1n02H0NyJgq01E7gux>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That car is well documented including a nice spread in The Healey Book.
Although that book is loaded with technical errors, it (and other sources)
describe the car as having no overdrive, and mentions the separate switching
for right and left spots as well as the extra lighting for the numbers.

Wilko

On Dec 16, 2013, at 6:04 AM, Andy wrote:

> Perry,
>
> You are right it does have the Overdrive escutcheon on the dash, however
> looking at the wiring colours coming from the relay on the bulkhead, mostly
> greens, with a yellow / green?, would these not be whites, if on the OD?.
> Then again I have a similar bulkhead shot of one of the FAC cars and
> although the electrical layout is similar, the wire colours to each piece
of
> equipment are different!
>
> Andy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of healeyguy@aol.com
> Sent: 16 December 2013 13:37
> To: healeys@autox.team.net; e-wilkins@cox.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
>
> Please go to the auction web site once again and enlarge the interior photo
> of the dashboard.  To the right of the dash you will see an standard O/D
> switch.
> Whether the car has a O/D hanging on the back of the gearbox, I can't say,
> but it appears to be wired for an O/D including the O/D relay on the
> firewall.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
>
> But that car doesn't have an overdrive. I'm going with relay for lights.
> With witches for left and right separately, plus number illumination.
> On Dec 11, 2013, at 10:39 AM, Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
>> Andy
> a. Overdrive relay
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sneddon@xsmail.com
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6924 - Release Date: 12/16/13
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 09:48:39 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 08:44:44 -0800
Cc: healeys Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000901cef692$c0960b80$41c22280$@com> <0KTr1n01X0NyJgq01KTss8>
	<B1BC1DA0-735D-4124-9B58-714D96FA153D@cox.net>
	<8D0C87B126FD827-1B88-13DDA@webmail-vm021.sysops.aol.com>
	<2E7e1n02H0NyJgq01E7gux> <2FwM1n01k0NyJgq01FwNAA>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry. Wrong car.

IIRC, none of the Sebring Healeys had overdrive, and 767KNX is claimed to be
very original.





On Dec 16, 2013, at 7:55 AM, Wilko2 wrote:

> That car is well documented including a nice spread in The Healey Book.
> Although that book is loaded with technical errors, it (and other sources)
> describe the car as having no overdrive, and mentions the separate
switching
> for right and left spots as well as the extra lighting for the numbers.
>
> Wilko
>
> On Dec 16, 2013, at 6:04 AM, Andy wrote:
>
>> Perry,
>>
>> You are right it does have the Overdrive escutcheon on the dash, however
>> looking at the wiring colours coming from the relay on the bulkhead,
mostly
>> greens, with a yellow / green?, would these not be whites, if on the OD?.
>> Then again I have a similar bulkhead shot of one of the FAC cars and
>> although the electrical layout is similar, the wire colours to each piece
> of
>> equipment are different!
>>
>> Andy
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of healeyguy@aol.com
>> Sent: 16 December 2013 13:37
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net; e-wilkins@cox.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
>>
>> Please go to the auction web site once again and enlarge the interior
photo
>> of the dashboard.  To the right of the dash you will see an standard O/D
>> switch.
>> Whether the car has a O/D hanging on the back of the gearbox, I can't say,
>> but it appears to be wired for an O/D including the O/D relay on the
>> firewall.
>> Aloha
>> Perry
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
>>
>> But that car doesn't have an overdrive. I'm going with relay for lights.
>> With witches for left and right separately, plus number illumination.
>> On Dec 11, 2013, at 10:39 AM, Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
>>> Andy
>> a. Overdrive relay
>> $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sneddon@xsmail.com
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6924 - Release Date: 12/16/13
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 13:35:20 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Wilko2'" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
References: <000901cef692$c0960b80$41c22280$@com> <0KTr1n01X0NyJgq01KTss8>
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Content-Language: en-au
Cc: 'healeys Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

I have had the pleasure of driving two of the Sebring 3000s and can say that
while the '63 cars (54 FAC, 56 FAC and 57 FAC) did not have overdrives
fitted, the 1965 car (DAC 953C - a BJ8) certainly does and has since new.

I cannot speak for 767 KNX.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains
Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Wilko2
Sent: Tuesday, 17 December 2013 3:45 AM
Cc: healeys Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's

Sorry. Wrong car.

IIRC, none of the Sebring Healeys had overdrive, and 767KNX is claimed to be
very original.





On Dec 16, 2013, at 7:55 AM, Wilko2 wrote:

> That car is well documented including a nice spread in The Healey Book.
> Although that book is loaded with technical errors, it (and other 
> sources) describe the car as having no overdrive, and mentions the 
> separate
switching
> for right and left spots as well as the extra lighting for the numbers.
>
> Wilko
>
> On Dec 16, 2013, at 6:04 AM, Andy wrote:
>
>> Perry,
>>
>> You are right it does have the Overdrive escutcheon on the dash, 
>> however looking at the wiring colours coming from the relay on the 
>> bulkhead,
mostly
>> greens, with a yellow / green?, would these not be whites, if on the OD?.
>> Then again I have a similar bulkhead shot of one of the FAC cars and 
>> although the electrical layout is similar, the wire colours to each 
>> piece
> of
>> equipment are different!
>>
>> Andy
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of healeyguy@aol.com
>> Sent: 16 December 2013 13:37
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net; e-wilkins@cox.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sebring 3000's
>>
>> Please go to the auction web site once again and enlarge the interior
photo
>> of the dashboard.  To the right of the dash you will see an standard 
>> O/D switch.
>> Whether the car has a O/D hanging on the back of the gearbox, I can't 
>> say, but it appears to be wired for an O/D including the O/D relay on 
>> the firewall.
>> Aloha
>> Perry
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
>>
>> But that car doesn't have an overdrive. I'm going with relay for lights.
>> With witches for left and right separately, plus number illumination.
>> On Dec 11, 2013, at 10:39 AM, Healeyguy@aol.com wrote:
>>> Andy
>> a. Overdrive relay
>> $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sneddon@xsmail.com
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6924 - Release Date: 
>> 12/16/13 _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
>> donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 14:51:18 2013
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 16:44:39 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 Inner sills and outer rockers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

One little catch for new players in this regard.
I learned the hard way that gas welding the main floor sections onto the
frame rails will cause the rails to curl up like a banana making the door
gaps particularly difficult to get correct..

Michael S
BN1 #174


On Sat, Dec 14, 2013 at 7:47 PM, Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hello to all -
>
>     I am new to the list and am in the process of working my
> way throughout the refurbishment of a '57 100-6 Longbridge in Salt Lake
> City.
>  This is a car that I want to retain some of the patina, and I WILL drive a
> lot - I have the factory hard top and my driving season may very well
> extend
> to year-round (dry weather permitting).  So this won't be a trailer queen.
>  Attention is being paid to the 'typical' body places - doglegs, boot
> floor,
> bottoms of fenders, cockpit floors, etc.  Of course, the inner sills and
> outer
> rockers are in need of replacement and are coming up soon.  I have some
> questions about the pitfalls of this task - i.e. door opening
> measurements, do
> I need to brace the openings and if so, where, what to look out for, etc.
>
>
>   I have researched a lot on line and by reading books and have seen some
> 'restorations' being carried out using various methods and instructions.  I
> have seen many pics that the doors just don't look quite right, or the swag
> line doesn't quite line up.  My hope is that things will line up well
> enough
> that I can duo-tone the paint.  This cars' frame and outriggers are very
> good
> - most of the corrosion has been contained to the outer sheet metal so the
> measurements of the inner sills and their attachment to the frame is not a
> worry (I don't think).  I have a data chart with frame measurements.  The
> car
> has been to the frame shop and is straight.  Again what I am looking for is
> any info regarding this process, known issues, things to look out for, etc.
>     I look forward to your comments and dialog.  Cheers!
>
> Darin
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_1087.jpg]
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
> IMG_1039.JPG]
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 19:35:33 2013
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	UTC
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 18:31:26 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive breather vent
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Oil is collecting on the bottom of the OD. Is it possible enough 
vaporized oil can come out of the breather on top of the OD and 
condense on the bottom?

Thanks,
John Spaur
'62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 18:55:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello -

 - can anyone tell me what the size / thread count is of the
hexagonal panel nut on the Lucas 31126 side / headlight switch?  I wish to
replace the round nut with the correct hexagonal nut on my BN4 Longbridge.
 Thanks!

Darin
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 16 22:09:44 2013
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive breather vent
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Anything is possible, but, in this case, not probable. More like wishful thinking. Just been there. 



Ed 



----- Original Message -----


From: "john spaur" <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net> 
To: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 9:31:26 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive breather vent 

Oil is collecting on the bottom of the OD. Is it possible enough 
vaporized oil can come out of the breather on top of the OD and 
condense on the bottom? 

Thanks, 
John Spaur 
'62 BT7 
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 17 00:47:21 2013
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Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2013 08:42:09 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <6.2.3.4.2.20131216182957.02093808@pop.att.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive breather vent
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Extremely unlikely. Oil in a gearbox/OD does not "vaporize" and 
condense, at least not noticeably.
Kees Oudesluijs

john spaur schreef op 17-12-2013 3:31:
> Oil is collecting on the bottom of the OD. Is it possible enough 
> vaporized oil can come out of the breather on top of the OD and 
> condense on the bottom?
>
> Thanks,
> John Spaur
> '62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 01:59:38 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 08:42:42 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac77zRwYL1TGBYhgTpOicUiJW3YnBQ==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Which Webers are you using?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Well, the Webers debate seems to have died down and thank you all for your
help and interest.

One last thing...I have become increasingly aware of the variety of types of
Webers, even within one size. (It's mostly to do with the progression holes.
Mostly)

So, leaving aside Dellortos and DCOE 40s for the moment (only for the
moment), what type of 45s are you using?

There are a couple of favourites, but I'd like to hear what you've got ie
what you thought was best at the time.

And, yes, we'll all accept that everyone's engines are different, but not
THAT different. None of them became high revving twin cams for example. (Or
did they?)

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 05:00:15 2013
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 22:53:03 +1100
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Webers are you using?
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45DCOE 13

Sent from my iPhone

> On 18 Dec 2013, at 7:42 pm, "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
wrote:
>
> Well, the Webers debate seems to have died down and thank you all for your
> help and interest.
>
>
>
> So, leaving aside Dellortos and DCOE 40s for the moment (only for the
> moment), what type of 45s are you using?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 06:38:17 2013
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 13:09:17 +0000
References: <52b16327.ca942a0a.6e3f.25a8SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Webers are you using?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

DCOE 9 ( of which there are, or have been about 8 different types)

Derek
On 18 Dec 2013, at 08:42, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:

> Well, the Webers debate seems to have died down and thank you all for your
> help and interest.
>
> One last thing...I have become increasingly aware of the variety of types
of
> Webers, even within one size. (It's mostly to do with the progression
holes.
> Mostly)
>
> So, leaving aside Dellortos and DCOE 40s for the moment (only for the
> moment), what type of 45s are you using?
>
> There are a couple of favourites, but I'd like to hear what you've got ie
> what you thought was best at the time.
>
> And, yes, we'll all accept that everyone's engines are different, but not
> THAT different. None of them became high revving twin cams for example. (Or
> did they?)
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 07:22:12 2013
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 06:12:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Ralph Cap <rjcapo1@yahoo.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] manifold
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

AH-Spares has a new inlet manifold available was wondering if anyone has any experience with it 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 08:05:44 2013
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 14:53:36 +0000 (UTC)
From: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: 123ignition...........good or bad?
Thread-Index: zXOV/sL7TyPfFeH6WTXFQ8M3WjLhSw==
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Subject: [Healeys] 123ignition...........good or bad?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello again,
I asked the question earlierB  "points or electronic ignition"B B .........B 
electronic wins.
B 
I have Pertronix now................but have been looking at the
123ignition.....and the newB TUNE model...........pretty neat!
B 
Is anyone using it?B  What is everyone'sB  opinion on it?B B  ProsB  and or
Cons.................Thanks in advance!!
B 
B 
Mitch
1966 bj8
1959 bn4
B 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 13:15:46 2013
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 17:21:36 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <919476585.336709.1387378416177.JavaMail.root@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 123ignition...........good or bad?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

So far I have only heard positive news of their latest. The old 123 
Ignition has several advance curves to play with, the new generation can 
be set fully to your own requirements using a lap top.
Kees Oudesluijs


Mitch schreef op 18-12-2013 15:53:
> Hello again,
> I asked the question earlierB  "points or electronic ignition"B B .........B
> electronic wins.
> B
> I have Pertronix now................but have been looking at the
> 123ignition.....and the newB TUNE model...........pretty neat!
> B
> Is anyone using it?B  What is everyone'sB  opinion on it?B B  ProsB  and or
> Cons.................Thanks in advance!!
> B
> B
> Mitch
> 1966 bj8
> 1959 bn4
> B
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
> -----
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2014.0.4259 / Virusdatabase: 3658/6929 - datum van uitgifte: 12/17/13
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 14:25:50 2013
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?B?aGVhbGV5c0BhdXRveC50ZWFtLm5ldA==?= <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 11:29:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Jaguar_caliper_question_for_rear_discs?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Am overhauling my '85 Jag XJ6 calipers prior to installation on my BN6. 

The four 3/8" bolts holding them together don't have any lockwashers - does it matter if they're torqued with oil; are they supposed to be locktited; or do they have to be torqued dry?

Any non-speculative info would be appreciated!


-- 
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA
BN6
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 12:24:11 -0500
From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman@htcnet.org>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <1387375958.91186.YahooMailNeo@web125504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] manifold
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd like to know too, as I was seriously thinking of getting one.

John
64/66 BJ8s
On 12/18/2013 9:12 AM, Ralph Cap wrote:
> AH-Spares has a new inlet manifold available was wondering if anyone has any experience with it
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 18:19:02 2013
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 15:26:51 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jaguar caliper question for rear discs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If they were loctited from the factory, you should see the remnants of the
loctite on the threads.  While I worked on these cars at the dealer when
they were new, I never split a caliper.
Personally, I would NOT split the caliper I would just remove the pistons
and overhaul the caliper that way.
Rick


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 11:29 AM, Steve B. Gerow <steveg@abrazosdata.com>wrote:

> Am overhauling my '85 Jag XJ6 calipers prior to installation on my BN6.
>
> The four 3/8" bolts holding them together don't have any lockwashers -
> does it matter if they're torqued with oil; are they supposed to be
> locktited; or do they have to be torqued dry?
>
> Any non-speculative info would be appreciated!
>
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Altadena, CA
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 19:10:06 2013
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000301cefbcd$1f94dc80$5ebe9580$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 09:13:17 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac77zRwYL1TGBYhgTpOicUiJW3YnBQAd78tA
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Webers are you using?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Simon
I am running 45DCOE 152's on my BT7 and after trying Redline, Webcon & DW
manifolds settled on the DW ones. The reason I went for them was because of
availability at the time and due to someone's error, I got them at a good
price new. Tuning was a pain and after wasting $$$$$ on experts I found a
dyno operator who knew what he was doing. He had to drill the 4th
progression hole which made all the difference. Everyone else was masking
the flat spot with extra fuel with disastrous results in economy. For racing
I don't think you would worry about drilling the holes as you would be
running above that rev range
On a run to a southern rally a couple of years ago we got 24mpg (imperial
gallons) matching a stock BJ7 (both running 3.54 diff ratio).
I absolutely love them after the HD6 (thermo choke ones) and the HS8's I
tried (especially the sound)
Regards
John Rowe
Qld Australia
BN1 BT7

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Wednesday, 18 December 2013 6:43 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Which Webers are you using?

Well, the Webers debate seems to have died down and thank you all for your
help and interest.

One last thing...I have become increasingly aware of the variety of types of
Webers, even within one size. (It's mostly to do with the progression holes.
Mostly)

So, leaving aside Dellortos and DCOE 40s for the moment (only for the
moment), what type of 45s are you using?

There are a couple of favourites, but I'd like to hear what you've got ie
what you thought was best at the time.

And, yes, we'll all accept that everyone's engines are different, but not
THAT different. None of them became high revving twin cams for example. (Or
did they?)

Simon
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 19:11:39 2013
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'John Vrugtman'" <javrugtman@htcnet.org>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1387375958.91186.YahooMailNeo@web125504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<52B1DA3B.3080207@htcnet.org>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 09:18:07 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac78PGj9IqitE3mrTduLzYlaxVd51wACmfzw
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] manifold
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John
They look remarkably like one produced by DMD (now owned by the Healey
Factory in Australia-see their website under DMD link). Probably
Chinese/Indian knockoffs as theirs are much more expensive.
I have seen them on a race car and the owner said he was happy. Apparently
better tuning and they comply with the class of Healey racing (2 carbs) he
was involved in.
John Rowe
Qld Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Vrugtman
Sent: Thursday, 19 December 2013 3:24 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] manifold

I'd like to know too, as I was seriously thinking of getting one.

John
64/66 BJ8s
On 12/18/2013 9:12 AM, Ralph Cap wrote:
> AH-Spares has a new inlet manifold available was wondering if anyone 
> has any experience with it 
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 19:13:05 2013
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'John Vrugtman'" <javrugtman@htcnet.org>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1387375958.91186.YahooMailNeo@web125504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 18:33:36 -0500
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Me too.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Vrugtman
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 12:24 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] manifold

I'd like to know too, as I was seriously thinking of getting one.

John
64/66 BJ8s
On 12/18/2013 9:12 AM, Ralph Cap wrote:
> AH-Spares has a new inlet manifold available was wondering if anyone 
> has any experience with it 
> _______________________________________________
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 18 20:47:55 2013
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <steveg@abrazosdata.com>, healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 01:42:56 +0000
References: <20131218192938.21264.qmail@hoster902.com>
	FILETIME=[A46B9320:01CEFC5B]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jaguar caliper question for rear discs
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve,

You have to split them in order to install them, whether it be on an XJ6 or
your BN6.  That is the reason there is an external brake line that connects
the two halves.  A little oil on the threads won't hurt but,  tighten them
exactly as you would any other 3/8th fine thread bolt. You will do no harm if
they are not torqued to any exact specification...... but, like any other
bolt, do not over-tighten them.  Do not use locktite....not necessary.....they
will never vibrate loose.

Richard





> From: steveg@abrazosdata.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 11:29:38 -0800
> Subject: [Healeys] Jaguar caliper question for rear discs
>
> Am overhauling my '85 Jag XJ6 calipers prior to installation on my BN6.
>
> The four 3/8" bolts holding them together don't have any lockwashers - does
it matter if they're torqued with oil; are they supposed to be locktited; or
do they have to be torqued dry?
>
> Any non-speculative info would be appreciated!
>
>
> --
> Steve Gerow
> Altadena, CA
> BN6
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard@hotmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 00:22:41 2013
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 22:14:22 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Early 100 door strikers.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone happen to know at which body number the width of the door
strikers increased on the very early 100s.

Thanks,

-- 
Michael S
_______________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 19:58:51 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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Subject: [Healeys] YOM Plates(not directly Healey-related)
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*http://tinyurl.com/lre4cqc*

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 02:05:28 2013
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From: "lists" <lists@brits-n-pieces.com>
To: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, dayton21@comcast.net
Date: 19 Dec 2013 08:21:03 +0100
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 123ignition...........good or bad?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Kees is absolutely correct! Moreover you can play with the ignition advance while the car is running, making a dyno unnecessary when you don't take tuning your engine too seriously.

But, we've found a small glitch in the 123 systems which made our life really hard for some time and has kept us scratching our heads for months. Some of our customers experienced a strange behavior when idling and at high revs. Mid range was ok. When idling the advance tended to jump around 10 - 15 degrees making the revs go up and down. When driving with high revs the engine began to sputter. We developed a little box that we call 'Big Fat Spark'. The name says it all.

For more info and the reason behind the misbehavior (and the solution to it) I'd like to point you to one of our websites, which saves me a lot of typing and should not be regarded to as promotion (which it is in fact).

Enjoy reading: http://www.big-fat-spark.com/bfs-eng.html

Eric

So far I have only heard positive news of their latest. The old 123 
Ignition has several advance curves to play with, the new generation can 
be set fully to your own requirements using a lap top.
Kees Oudesluijs


Mitch schreef op 18-12-2013 15:53:
> Hello again,
> I asked the question earlierB  "points or electronic ignition"B B .........B
> electronic wins.
> B
> I have Pertronix now................but have been looking at the
> 123ignition.....and the newB TUNE model...........pretty neat!
> B
> Is anyone using it?B  What is everyone'sB  opinion on it?B B  ProsB  and or
> Cons.................Thanks in advance!!
> B
> B
> Mitch
> 1966 bj8
> 1959 bn4
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 02:38:45 2013
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 09:01:51 +0000
References: <000301cefbcd$1f94dc80$5ebe9580$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	<000001cefc46$bcefde70$36cf9b50$@com.au>
To: John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Webers are you using?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Interesting comment about masking the flat spot with fuel.

What exactly did the guy do to achieve that masking? Was it running very rich
and were their any other negative side affects. I only have 3 holes on mine
and no noticeable flat spot but my fuel consumption is nowhere near 24mph. I
wasn't at the rolling road when mine was set up as I couldn't make it at the
time. Some operators might not even bother looking for any flat spot and just
go straight to how it performs higher up the range.

I plan to have my set up re-checked prior to next season and this time I'll be
there. Do yours have screw access to the progression circuit or did he have to
remove the brass caps and fe-fit new ones.

Derek
On 18 Dec 2013, at 23:13, John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au> wrote:

> Hi Simon
> I am running 45DCOE 152's on my BT7 and after trying Redline, Webcon & DW
> manifolds settled on the DW ones. The reason I went for them was because of
> availability at the time and due to someone's error, I got them at a good
> price new. Tuning was a pain and after wasting $$$$$ on experts I found a
> dyno operator who knew what he was doing. He had to drill the 4th
> progression hole which made all the difference. Everyone else was masking
> the flat spot with extra fuel with disastrous results in economy. For
racing
> I don't think you would worry about drilling the holes as you would be
> running above that rev range
> On a run to a southern rally a couple of years ago we got 24mpg (imperial
> gallons) matching a stock BJ7 (both running 3.54 diff ratio).
> I absolutely love them after the HD6 (thermo choke ones) and the HS8's I
> tried (especially the sound)
> Regards
> John Rowe
> Qld Australia
> BN1 BT7
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
> Sent: Wednesday, 18 December 2013 6:43 PM
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Which Webers are you using?
>
> Well, the Webers debate seems to have died down and thank you all for your
> help and interest.
>
> One last thing...I have become increasingly aware of the variety of types
of
> Webers, even within one size. (It's mostly to do with the progression
holes.
> Mostly)
>
> So, leaving aside Dellortos and DCOE 40s for the moment (only for the
> moment), what type of 45s are you using?
>
> There are a couple of favourites, but I'd like to hear what you've got ie
> what you thought was best at the time.
>
> And, yes, we'll all accept that everyone's engines are different, but not
> THAT different. None of them became high revving twin cams for example. (Or
> did they?)
>
> Simon
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 03:11:40 2013
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 21:08:20 +1100
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Webers are you using?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Derek,
Usual strategy is you run an idle one size larger. Usually.
It's an experiment based on numerous, inter related variables.
I have webers with 2 drillings (45DCOE 13)
Depending on the exact model, You can end up with 2 - 5.  Different locations,
different sizes.
Oh. And for all those with SU's, contrary to popular opinion, you don't need
to adjust webers once they are set.....
;-)
Best.
Chris
PS. Probably Less adjustment on Webers than SU's
SU's are far more maintenance than  Lucas Points...




Sent from my iPhone

> On 19 Dec 2013, at 8:01 pm, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Interesting comment about masking the flat spot with fuel.
>
> What exactly did the guy do to achieve that masking? Was it running very
rich
> and were their any other negative side affects. I only have 3 holes on mine
> and no noticeable flat spot but my fuel consumption is nowhere near 24mph.
I
> wasn't at the rolling road when mine was set up as I couldn't make it at
the
> time. Some operators might not even bother looking for any flat spot and
just
> go straight to how it performs higher up the range.
>
> I plan to have my set up re-checked prior to next season and this time I'll
be
> there. Do yours have screw access to the progression circuit or did he have
to
> remove the brass caps and fe-fit new ones.
>
> Derek
>> On 18 Dec 2013, at 23:13, John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Simon
>> I am running 45DCOE 152's on my BT7 and after trying Redline, Webcon & DW
>> manifolds settled on the DW ones. The reason I went for them was because
of
>> availability at the time and due to someone's error, I got them at a good
>> price new. Tuning was a pain and after wasting $$$$$ on experts I found a
>> dyno operator who knew what he was doing. He had to drill the 4th
>> progression hole which made all the difference. Everyone else was masking
>> the flat spot with extra fuel with disastrous results in economy. For
> racing
>> I don't think you would worry about drilling the holes as you would be
>> running above that rev range
>> On a run to a southern rally a couple of years ago we got 24mpg (imperial
>> gallons) matching a stock BJ7 (both running 3.54 diff ratio).
>> I absolutely love them after the HD6 (thermo choke ones) and the HS8's I
>> tried (especially the sound)
>> Regards
>> John Rowe
>> Qld Australia
>> BN1 BT7
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
>> Sent: Wednesday, 18 December 2013 6:43 PM
>> To: healeys@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] Which Webers are you using?
>>
>> Well, the Webers debate seems to have died down and thank you all for your
>> help and interest.
>>
>> One last thing...I have become increasingly aware of the variety of types
> of
>> Webers, even within one size. (It's mostly to do with the progression
> holes.
>> Mostly)
>>
>> So, leaving aside Dellortos and DCOE 40s for the moment (only for the
>> moment), what type of 45s are you using?
>>
>> There are a couple of favourites, but I'd like to hear what you've got ie
>> what you thought was best at the time.
>>
>> And, yes, we'll all accept that everyone's engines are different, but not
>> THAT different. None of them became high revving twin cams for example.
(Or
>> did they?)
>>
>> Simon
>> $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john@jtkarowe.com.au
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 13:20:35 2013
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 14:32:33 -0500 (EST)
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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	s=20121107; t=1387481553;
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Subject: [Healeys] Non-Healey-More Goodwood Photos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This month's installment was all about "Behind the Scenes" at the 2013  
Goodwood. NOJ 393 actually appears on page 11 of the photos, though not the 
main  focus. And on page 12 there is a shot of another 100S, again not the main 
focus.  But these are some very cool photos and for those with a lot of 
time on their  hands, the gallery seems to go on and on and on with even some 
shots of canned  Spam! Enjoy!
 
http://www.sportscardigest.com/goodwood-revival-2013-behind-the-scenes-galle
ry/ 
 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 13:29:43 2013
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 16:16:29 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early 100 door strikers.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael:

According to the book by Clausager, Original Austin-Healey, on page 45 in
Changes by Body Number it says: "In March 1954, body number2236(152600), the
door lock strikers fitted with tapped plate and packing plate. Attendant
changes to shut pillars and cover plates." The number in parantheses is the
approximate chassis number, according to Clausager



Jean


> Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 22:14:22 -0500
> From: michaelsalter@gmail.com
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Early 100 door strikers.
>
> Does anyone happen to know at which body number the width of the door
> strikers increased on the very early 100s.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Michael S
> _______________________________________________
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 7:54:28 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: [Healeys] Ho Ho Ho !!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Merry Christmas !!!

Hope you like this


With the Holidays upon us I would like to share a personal experience with my
Healey friends about drinking andB  driving. This is a first for me, as I
normally donbt preach to others. As you may know some of us have
been known to have brushes with the authorities from time to time on the way
home after a "social session" outB  with friends.B 
B 
Well, two days ago I was out in the Healey for an evening with friends and had
several cocktails followed by some rather nice red wine. Feeling jolly I still
had the sense to know that I may beB  slightly over the limit.B  That's
when I did something that I've never done before - I took a cab home.B 
B 
Sure enough on the way home there was aB  police road block, but since it was
a cab they waved it past and I arrived home safely without incident.
B 
This was a real surprise as I had never driven a cab before.B  I don't know
where I got it and now that it's in my garage, I don't know what to do with
it.
=============
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 13:31:14 2013
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	<8D0CAD7BBAD0A8D-1CD4-27670@webmail-m258.sysops.aol.com>
	<8D0CADE75645E31-1CD4-27AB2@webmail-m258.sysops.aol.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 09:52:10 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Perry Small <healeyguy@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early 100 door strikers.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Many thanks for the answers to my question...now resolved.

Michael S
BN1 #174


On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 9:33 AM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:

>  Michael
> There was a change at car 152600 body 2236 for the strikers, shut pillars
> and cover plates.
> Aloha
> Perry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter michaelsalter@gmail.com
> .
> Does anyone happen to know at which body number the width of the door
> strikers increased on the very early 100s.
> Thanks,
> --
> Michael S
>



-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 14:05:56 2013
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 08:41:04 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early 100 door strikers.
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael,

Changed at body no. 2234, or about March 1954.

Cheers,

Curt


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 7:14 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>wrote:

> Does anyone happen to know at which body number the width of the door
> strikers increased on the very early 100s.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Michael S
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 14:56:33 2013
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References: <ad29.58186b17.3fe4a3d0@aol.com>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 12:56:10 -0800
To: "ATIGHTPROD@aol.com" <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non-Healey-More Goodwood Photos
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks,
Great photos. One of my Bucket List events

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 11:32 AM, <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com> wrote:

> This month's installment was all about "Behind the Scenes" at the 2013
> Goodwood. NOJ 393 actually appears on page 11 of the photos, though not the
> main  focus. And on page 12 there is a shot of another 100S, again not the
> main
> focus.  But these are some very cool photos and for those with a lot of
> time on their  hands, the gallery seems to go on and on and on with even
> some
> shots of canned  Spam! Enjoy!
>
>
> http://www.sportscardigest.com/goodwood-revival-2013-behind-the-scenes-galle
> ry/
>
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 14:58:48 2013
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	Thu, 19 Dec 2013 06:56:30 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell@comcast.net>, "'healeylist'"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <52B26EFB.6060208@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 07:56:29 -0500
Thread-index: AQF8dgaFk9RfsRfPMaU3QigUzkzUopsAh02w
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] YOM Plates(not directly Healey-related)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That link takes me to a New York Times subscription page.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 10:59 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] YOM Plates(not directly Healey-related)

*http://tinyurl.com/lre4cqc*

--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 15:32:25 2013
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	<000d01cefcb9$bca9b170$35fd1450$@verizon.net>
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 14:25:09 -0800
To: John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] YOM Plates(not directly Healey-related)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

try this
http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/15/automobiles/collectibles/match-game-finding-the-perfect-plates-for-a-vintage-car.html?_r=0
for YOM article

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 4:56 AM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

> That link takes me to a New York Times subscription page.
>
> John Sims, BN6
> Aberdeen, NJ
>
> www.healey6.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 10:59 PM
> To: healeylist
> Subject: [Healeys] YOM Plates(not directly Healey-related)
>
> *http://tinyurl.com/lre4cqc*
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 15:34:26 2013
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 14:26:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Jackson Krall <jackson_krall@yahoo.com>
To: tomfelts@windstream.net, healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ho Ho Ho !!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Drive it! Make some money!

Sometimes they are stolen and people will drive them for days picking up fares and making money.
Best
JK

---------------------------
On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 7:54 AM EST Tom Felts wrote:

>Merry Christmas !!!
>
>Hope you like this
>
>
>With the Holidays upon us I would like to share a personal experience with my
>Healey friends about drinking andB  driving. This is a first for me, as I
>normally donbt preach to others. As you may know some of us have
>been known to have brushes with the authorities from time to time on the way
>home after a "social session" outB  with friends.B 
>B 
>Well, two days ago I was out in the Healey for an evening with friends and had
>several cocktails followed by some rather nice red wine. Feeling jolly I still
>had the sense to know that I may beB  slightly over the limit.B  That's
>when I did something that I've never done before - I took a cab home.B 
>B 
>Sure enough on the way home there was aB  police road block, but since it was
>a cab they waved it past and I arrived home safely without incident.
>B 
>This was a real surprise as I had never driven a cab before.B  I don't know
>where I got it and now that it's in my garage, I don't know what to do with
>it.
>=============
>___________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 17:19:14 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: Eric Wilkins <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:20:33 -0800
Cc: healeys Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000301cefbcd$1f94dc80$5ebe9580$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	<000001cefc46$bcefde70$36cf9b50$@com.au>
	<B1CB6CBE-9D30-4A06-900C-641776849EB7@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Webers are you using?
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

While researching the flat spot issue in progression circuits I stumbled upon
a car forum where extra drilling was explained.

There were many who erroneously used the throttle stop to set idle speed just
like many do with S.U.s. The progression can't work right as the bypass
circuit messes with the mixture and the holes behind the plate start on too
early.

These guys went as far as cutting different bevels on the plate edge to change
how that first hole would react and some even drilling hole is  the plate. All
of these mods were for street driving. as transition from idle to driving, and
mid range power can be tricky to tune for speeds where the carb is using
progression circuits until the main venturi kicks in




On Dec 19, 2013, at 2:08 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote:

> Hi Derek,
> Usual strategy is you run an idle one size larger. Usually.
> It's an experiment based on numerous, inter related variables.
> I have webers with 2 drillings (45DCOE 13)
> Depending on the exact model, You can end up with 2 - 5.  Different
locations,
> different sizes.
> Oh. And for all those with SU's, contrary to popular opinion, you don't
need
> to adjust webers once they are set.....
> ;-)
> Best.
> Chris
> PS. Probably Less adjustment on Webers than SU's
> SU's are far more maintenance than  Lucas Points...
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On 19 Dec 2013, at 8:01 pm, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Interesting comment about masking the flat spot with fuel.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 20:13:02 2013
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 21:41:48 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] New Blog Post (vaguely Healey related)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Things seem to be a little quiet on "the list" so here is something to
contemplate...
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

Michael S
BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Thu Dec 19 20:16:52 2013
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	Thu, 19 Dec 2013 17:49:08 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>
References: <52B26EFB.6060208@comcast.net>
	<000d01cefcb9$bca9b170$35fd1450$@verizon.net>
	<CACPMnYo3kLD976_Uyvu3r9K5QFKmiuU-=+OBs50ie8KYez-RDQ@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 18:49:07 -0500
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Cc: 'healeylist' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] YOM Plates(not directly Healey-related)
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Nice article. Requirements and forms for each state are on my site. Links
page, Registration Requirements section. I just finished validating all of
the information so it is current as of December 16, 2013.

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

www.healey6.com

 

From: eyera3@gmail.com [mailto:eyera3@gmail.com] On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 5:25 PM
To: John Sims
Cc: healeylist
Subject: Re: [Healeys] YOM Plates(not directly Healey-related)

 

try this

http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/15/automobiles/collectibles/match-game-findin
g-the-perfect-plates-for-a-vintage-car.html?_r=0

for YOM article




Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

 

On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 4:56 AM, John Sims <ahbn6@verizon.net> wrote:

That link takes me to a New York Times subscription page.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 10:59 PM
To: healeylist
Subject: [Healeys] YOM Plates(not directly Healey-related)

*http://tinyurl.com/lre4cqc*

--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
$12.75
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 20 02:37:52 2013
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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 16:23:31 -0600 (CST)
From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008@mchsi.com>
To: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
	(Win)/5.0.19_GA_3083.RHEL5_64)
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ho Ho Ho !!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

HA HA,, good one

Tim Davis BN7

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 6:54:28 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [Healeys] Ho Ho Ho !!

Merry Christmas !!!

Hope you like this


With the Holidays upon us I would like to share a personal experience with my
Healey friends about drinking andB  driving. This is a first for me, as I
normally donbt preach to others. As you may know some of us have
been known to have brushes with the authorities from time to time on the way
home after a "social session" outB  with friends.B 
B 
Well, two days ago I was out in the Healey for an evening with friends and had
several cocktails followed by some rather nice red wine. Feeling jolly I still
had the sense to know that I may beB  slightly over the limit.B  That's
when I did something that I've never done before - I took a cab home.B 
B 
Sure enough on the way home there was aB  police road block, but since it was
a cab they waved it past and I arrived home safely without incident.
B 
This was a real surprise as I had never driven a cab before.B  I don't know
where I got it and now that it's in my garage, I don't know what to do with
it.
=============
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Phil Jarrett <pjarrett14@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 22:31:12 -0500
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Door Hinge Pins
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello ,
Turning new door pins tonight. Can some one please tell me how the original
pins were held in. I am guessing friction fit in the center section of the
hinge. The pin then rotates
in the hinge ears. Hope that makes sense.
Thxs
Phil
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From: Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 22:29:25 -0700
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 48 spoke wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello,

    I am looking for the definitive word on the 48 spoke wire wheels on my '57
100-6.  With the four wheel drum brakes, I have heard that you cannot upgrade
to 60 spoke wheels due to the offset (or lack thereof). Is this true and if
so, am I resigned to keep the 48 spoke wheels?  I like the open look of less
wires, but drive a lot and worry sometimes about strength.  Thanks in
advance.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 20 22:46:14 2013
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From: "Mike" <phoenix722@comcast.net>
To: "Healey Forum" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1021A574-453E-4200-A363-4BC4D9522E3B@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 21:38:09 -0800
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	bh=u1c/eFQDlc7SKRp7UqPU+yTW7a96t1j2jK369PFiq2s=;
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] 48 spoke wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I don't really know about Darin's question, but I would be interested in the
pros and cons of 48 vs. 60 spoke wheels.

Mike
BN2


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Darin Graber" <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2013 9:29 PM
Subject: [Healeys] 48 spoke wheels


> Hello,
>
>    I am looking for the definitive word on the 48 spoke wire wheels on my
> '57
> 100-6.  With the four wheel drum brakes, I have heard that you cannot
> upgrade
> to 60 spoke wheels due to the offset (or lack thereof). Is this true and
> if
> so, am I resigned to keep the 48 spoke wheels?  I like the open look of
> less
> wires, but drive a lot and worry sometimes about strength.  Thanks in
> advance.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722@comcast.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 20 23:05:20 2013
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References: <1021A574-453E-4200-A363-4BC4D9522E3B@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 14:03:55 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 48 spoke wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

If I'm not mistaken, Dayton 60's will fit, the Dunlops won't.


On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 1:29 PM, Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
>     I am looking for the definitive word on the 48 spoke wire wheels on my
> '57
> 100-6.  With the four wheel drum brakes, I have heard that you cannot
> upgrade
> to 60 spoke wheels due to the offset (or lack thereof). Is this true and if
> so, am I resigned to keep the 48 spoke wheels?  I like the open look of
> less
> wires, but drive a lot and worry sometimes about strength.  Thanks in
> advance.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 00:50:48 2013
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	<healeys@autox.team.net>; Sat, 21 Dec 2013 18:48:57 +1100
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 18:48:57 +1100
Thread-Index: Ac7+HYgiIYn1BlSiQUWf792K+qDsFg==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Mountings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

 

I have just spent the last couple of hours struggling with the changing of a
passenger side rubber/metal engine mount on the BN3 (RHD). Despite the heat,
mosquitoes and perspiration dripping onto the inside of my glasses, I won.
However I am not happy with the result.

 

The engine mounts in the BN3 are an amalgam of both four and six cylinder
components coming off the side of the six-cylinder engine and on to diagonal
chassis mounts like the four-cylinder cars. Easy to undo, but how two
supposedly immovable objects fail to line up afterwards is quite beyond me. 

 

New engine mounts are rubber sandwiched (Vulcanised) between two flat and
parallel pieces of metal plate, but when it's all fitted to the BN3 the top
of the rubber mount is pushed in a little, while the bottom is pulled out.
As a consequence I can't help but think that they are put together
incorrectly.

 

So! What I am after are photos of both four and six-cylinder mounts fitted
so that I can compare. Is there anyone out there who can send me some pics?

 

If anyone is interested in how the Donald Healey Motor Company modified the
100 chassis engine mounts I am happy to send pics.

 

Time for another mineral water and lime juice.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 02:23:57 2013
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	Sat, 21 Dec 2013 01:20:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 09:20:22 +0000
References: <1021A574-453E-4200-A363-4BC4D9522E3B@yahoo.com>
	<CAFBXTk+VxEyZRmRUy-Qc2WPt-sRWnaCo7yWw0iqFHbdoKfvTKQ@mail.gmail.com>
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 48 spoke wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Allan is correct. The lace pattern is different on Daytons. 72 spoke Dunlops
will also fit I had them on my 100-Six with front drums.

60s are stronger, thats why the factory upgraded. However for normal driving
of a classic car 48s are OK. My first 100-Six had them and I drove it for 8
years without any problems. Lots of miles as well.

Derek
On 21 Dec 2013, at 06:03, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:

> If I'm not mistaken, Dayton 60's will fit, the Dunlops won't.
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 1:29 PM, Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>>    I am looking for the definitive word on the 48 spoke wire wheels on my
>> '57
>> 100-6.  With the four wheel drum brakes, I have heard that you cannot
>> upgrade
>> to 60 spoke wheels due to the offset (or lack thereof). Is this true and
if
>> so, am I resigned to keep the 48 spoke wheels?  I like the open look of
>> less
>> wires, but drive a lot and worry sometimes about strength.  Thanks in
>> advance.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 14:43:53 2013
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 16:48:49 +0100
From: Bob <jagxk120@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:17.0)
	Gecko/20130801 Thunderbird/17.0.8
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in OZ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=xn7CYzPMf2o

A fine appearance at 1'50"
Anyone from the list or known ?

B
HBT7L244-O
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 15:13:57 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <jagxk120@gmail.com>, "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <52B5B861.5010901@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 08:54:35 +1100
Content-Language: en-au
Thread-Index: AQG+jnsgicXapkf1gj2oMclo3SbCSZqAENnw
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 in OZ
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Bob

It's a BN2 that belongs to Howard Prior of the Austin-Healey Owners Club of
Queensland. I understand that Howard is never known to raise the windscreen.

As far as I know he is not a member of this list.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Sunday, 22 December 2013 2:49 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] 100 in OZ

http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v=xn7CYzPMf2o

A fine appearance at 1'50"
Anyone from the list or known ?

B
HBT7L244-O
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 15:14:42 2013
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	<healeys@autox.team.net>; Sat, 21 Dec 2013 15:37:04 +0000 (UTC)
From: "Dr. C. Rubino" <ruvino@ripnet.com>
To: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 10:37:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] brake lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Any difference between the stainless steel (braided) lines by Goodridge and
the ones from Cobalt (both from Moss)?
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 15:24:38 2013
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 23:17:11 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <6603ADC532C14C68B1062AE1358AE2F2@HPp6520f>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake lines
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have used Goodridge for donkey's years on all sorts of cars and never 
had any problems. They look the part and they perform well.
Cobalt is unknown to me.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Dr. C. Rubino schreef op 21-12-2013 16:37:
> Any difference between the stainless steel (braided) lines by Goodridge and
> the ones from Cobalt (both from Moss)?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 17:02:15 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 23:57:53 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac7+qHXroc8L8gWWSMSKSDOj6ZtYkw==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Triple manifolds
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi,

Looking at eBay item no 281225499558.....

Does anybody recognize these manifolds?

My guess is that they are PRC in origin. But does that matter in this
instance? The question might be "Have they made perfect copies of good
manifolds or have they copied cheap and nasty ones or even designed their
own cheap and nasty ones?"

Is the vendor familiar to anyone? I noticed that he does admit to his
weberalikes being "Asian". I have only recently gathered that there are
Asian Weber copies around in the States.

Simon281225499558281225499558281225499558281225499558
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 18:20:48 2013
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000001cefea8$77b69ba0$6723d2e0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 10:49:15 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac7+qHXroc8L8gWWSMSKSDOj6ZtYkwABo3tQ
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Triple manifolds
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Simon
They are the same as sold by Webcon in the UK. You need special stepdown
bolts and small nuts to fix to the head. It looks like these are included
with this kit. No mods are necessary to bodywork. I had a set without the
special bolts and sold them on E-bay out of frustration.
John Rowe
Qld Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Sunday, 22 December 2013 9:58 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Triple manifolds

Hi,

Looking at eBay item no 281225499558.....

Does anybody recognize these manifolds?

My guess is that they are PRC in origin. But does that matter in this
instance? The question might be "Have they made perfect copies of good
manifolds or have they copied cheap and nasty ones or even designed their
own cheap and nasty ones?"

Is the vendor familiar to anyone? I noticed that he does admit to his
weberalikes being "Asian". I have only recently gathered that there are
Asian Weber copies around in the States.

Simon281225499558281225499558281225499558281225499558
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john@jtkarowe.com.au
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 19:10:41 2013
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From: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 12:55:20 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi all

Quiet day on the list and just cruising Ebay regarding Simons query concerning
Triple Weber Manifolds thought they might be a knock off of the DMD Australia
units produced by the Healey Factory here in Melbourne

Don't think they are though

Stumbled across a listing for a Derrington Steering Wheel  ( NOS - Non
adjustable column ) for a 100/6 or 3000 for a mere  $2050.00. Ebay item number
251391867922.

Now I know this item is fairly rare but $2050.00 you must be kidding.

I have a vague memory that some one mentioned that copies of the Derrington
Wheel were in fact being remanufactured either some where in the UK or maybe
even the US.at a reasonable price

Any one have  any information

Cheers

Graeme M
Mt Martha Vic
BJ8 32717
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 19:32:19 2013
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Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 18:24:18 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Graeme Molony <molony@dodo.com.au>, healeys@autox.team.net
References: <F800D6BE3CD04873B27B2DFAA6F3D208@Study>
	s=q20121106; t=1387679063;
	bh=Oz3TbxJOEZypU+l6K3KmrqXLK2hdYeKEQfRo122tu7o=;
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	reghBYKJAGsiQ==
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have a wheel I believe to be a Derrington on my BJ8, only it isn't dished.  Also, I read somewhere the originals were 
made with obeechi wood, which is now extinct.  Anyone know?

Bob



On 12/21/2013 5:55 PM, Graeme Molony wrote:
> Hi all
>
> Quiet day on the list and just cruising Ebay regarding Simons query concerning
> Triple Weber Manifolds thought they might be a knock off of the DMD Australia
> units produced by the Healey Factory here in Melbourne
>
> Don't think they are though
>
> Stumbled across a listing for a Derrington Steering Wheel  ( NOS - Non
> adjustable column ) for a 100/6 or 3000 for a mere  $2050.00. Ebay item number
> 251391867922.
>
> Now I know this item is fairly rare but $2050.00 you must be kidding.
>
> I have a vague memory that some one mentioned that copies of the Derrington
> Wheel were in fact being remanufactured either some where in the UK or maybe
> even the US.at a reasonable price
>
> Any one have  any information
>
> Cheers
>
> Graeme M
> Mt Martha Vic
> BJ8 32717
>
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 19:34:47 2013
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From: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 13:16:45 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Oops should have let my fingers do the walking

Just checked the internet and confirmed these wheels are available from Mota
Lita in the UK for approx $350.00 excluding VAT plus P&H

A far cry from the $ 2050.00 ask on Ebay

Cheers
Graeme M
Mt Martha Vic
BJ8 32717
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 20:03:20 2013
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References: <1DF10A81092D40B1A6509B27C5D2F481@Study>
From: Simon Atkinson <satkinson1974@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 21:39:30 -0500
To: Graeme Molony <molony@dodo.com.au>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think the mike lempert wheels are just as nice and much better than mota
lita. I have a mota and the "spokes" just don't look right when installed with
one spoke at 12 o'clock. The two down spokes are at 830 and 330 and just does
not look right with the gauges.

Thanks,
Simon
Cell 860-324-0248



> On Dec 21, 2013, at 9:16 PM, "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:
>
> Oops should have let my fingers do the walking
>
> Just checked the internet and confirmed these wheels are available from
Mota
> Lita in the UK for approx $350.00 excluding VAT plus P&H
>
> A far cry from the $ 2050.00 ask on Ebay
>
> Cheers
> Graeme M
> Mt Martha Vic
> BJ8 32717
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 20:33:44 2013
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From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
CC: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 03:24:35 +0000
References: <1DF10A81092D40B1A6509B27C5D2F481@Study>,
	<8F1EC181-99B6-4C3E-A011-F8D0FB813F1C@gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[571DB460:01CEFEC5]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The only wheel style that looks right in a Healey  has the spokes spaced at
120 degrees with one spoke pointing up. They did that because with the
conventional layout (spokes at 105, 105 and 150 degrees with one spoke down)
blocks the driver's view of the gauges.

If you are looking for a great wheel for your Healey you can't beat Mike
Lempert's product.

Bill Lawrence

> From: satkinson1974@gmail.com
> Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 21:39:30 -0500
> To: molony@dodo.com.au
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
>
> I think the mike lempert wheels are just as nice and much better than mota
> lita. I have a mota and the "spokes" just don't look right when installed
with
> one spoke at 12 o'clock. The two down spokes are at 830 and 330 and just
does
> not look right with the gauges.
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
>
>
>
> > On Dec 21, 2013, at 9:16 PM, "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:
> >
> > Oops should have let my fingers do the walking
> >
> > Just checked the internet and confirmed these wheels are available from
> Mota
> > Lita in the UK for approx $350.00 excluding VAT plus P&H
> >
> > A far cry from the $ 2050.00 ask on Ebay
> >
> > Cheers
> > Graeme M
> > Mt Martha Vic
> > BJ8 32717
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/satkinson1974@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 21 21:03:16 2013
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 19:58:20 -0800
References: <4SaF1n01A0NyJgq01SaGDz>
To: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I bought one such wheel. Flat (no dish).

My site has a comparison of the regular Mota Lita and the 120 degree
Derrington style Mota Lita made wheel:

ewilkins.com/wilko/derrington.htm


On Dec 21, 2013, at 6:16 PM, Graeme Molony wrote:

> Oops should have let my fingers do the walking
>
> Just checked the internet and confirmed these wheels are available from
Mota
> Lita in the UK for approx $350.00 excluding VAT plus P&H
>
> A far cry from the $ 2050.00 ask on Ebay
>
> Cheers
> Graeme M
> Mt Martha Vic
> BJ8 32717
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 02:52:03 2013
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	2013 01:37:39 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alan Bromfield" <bluehealey@gmail.com>
To: "'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <00e301cefe21$1bd62d00$53828700$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 09:37:23 -0000
Thread-Index: AQGYPrHWmVa3DtiZe2ZNafM/4riNQ5rNdDow
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Mountings
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Patrick.
Could part of the problem be that the replacement engine mounts are not
accurately reproduced.  I found an issue when preparing my 100/6 mounts for
installation. I documented the issue for John Sims site.
http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Engine%20Mounts.pdf
This may be a contributing factor.
Best wishes for Christmas and the New Year
  _________________________________________
(______________ Alan Bromfield_______________)
        (_______\____1957-BN4____/________)
                (__tinyurl.com/healeyforum _)

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: 21 December 2013 07:49
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Engine Mountings

G'day
I have just spent the last couple of hours struggling with the changing of a
passenger side rubber/metal engine mount on the BN3 (RHD). Despite the heat,
mosquitoes and perspiration dripping onto the inside of my glasses, I won.
However I am not happy with the result.
The engine mounts in the BN3 are an amalgam of both four and six cylinder
components coming off the side of the six-cylinder engine and on to diagonal
chassis mounts like the four-cylinder cars. Easy to undo, but how two
supposedly immovable objects fail to line up afterwards is quite beyond me. 
New engine mounts are rubber sandwiched (Vulcanised) between two flat and
parallel pieces of metal plate, but when it's all fitted to the BN3 the top
of the rubber mount is pushed in a little, while the bottom is pulled out.
As a consequence I can't help but think that they are put together
incorrectly.
So! What I am after are photos of both four and six-cylinder mounts fitted
so that I can compare. Is there anyone out there who can send me some pics?
If anyone is interested in how the Donald Healey Motor Company modified the
100 chassis engine mounts I am happy to send pics.
Time for another mineral water and lime juice.
Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn


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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 03:32:57 2013
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Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 11:24:32 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <F800D6BE3CD04873B27B2DFAA6F3D208@Study>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

AFAIK Moto Lita is reproducing this steering wheel.
Where they not the original makers as well?
Kees Oudesluijs
NL

Graeme Molony schreef op 22-12-2013 2:55:
> Hi all
>
> Quiet day on the list and just cruising Ebay regarding Simons query concerning
> Triple Weber Manifolds thought they might be a knock off of the DMD Australia
> units produced by the Healey Factory here in Melbourne
>
> Don't think they are though
>
> Stumbled across a listing for a Derrington Steering Wheel  ( NOS - Non
> adjustable column ) for a 100/6 or 3000 for a mere  $2050.00. Ebay item number
> 251391867922.
>
> Now I know this item is fairly rare but $2050.00 you must be kidding.
>
> I have a vague memory that some one mentioned that copies of the Derrington
> Wheel were in fact being remanufactured either some where in the UK or maybe
> even the US.at a reasonable price
>
> Any one have  any information
>
> Cheers
>
> Graeme M
> Mt Martha Vic
> BJ8 32717
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
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>
>
>
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 10:53:21 +0000
References: <F800D6BE3CD04873B27B2DFAA6F3D208@Study>
To: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Derrington did not actually make steering wheels, they were a 'speed shop' As
Kees mentions, the wheels were made by Moto Lita. They still make them and the
model they call the Derrington has Moto Lita stamped on the reverse side
rather than the front.

Derek
On 22 Dec 2013, at 01:55, "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:

> Hi allsays
>
> Quiet day on the list and just cruising Ebay regarding Simons query
concerning
> Triple Weber Manifolds thought they might be a knock off of the DMD
Australia
> units produced by the Healey Factory here in Melbourne
>
> Don't think they are though
>
> Stumbled across a listing for a Derrington Steering Wheel  ( NOS - Non
> adjustable column ) for a 100/6 or 3000 for a mere  $2050.00. Ebay item
number
> 251391867922.
>
> Now I know this item is fairly rare but $2050.00 you must be kidding.
>
> I have a vague memory that some one mentioned that copies of the Derrington
> Wheel were in fact being remanufactured either some where in the UK or
maybe
> even the US.at a reasonable price
>
> Any one have  any information
>
> Cheers
>
> Graeme M
> Mt Martha Vic
> BJ8 32717
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 10:58:54 +0000
References: <1DF10A81092D40B1A6509B27C5D2F481@Study>
To: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike Lempert's wheels are no doubt very nice but its the Moto Lita  that are
the accurate  design and representative of the ones used back in the day. Moto
Lita make many different styles and if people have one that does not have the
three equally spaced spokes then they have bought the wrong model.

Derek
On 22 Dec 2013, at 02:16, "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:

> Oops should have let my fingers do the walking
>
> Just checked the internet and confirmed these wheels are available from
Mota
> Lita in the UK for approx $350.00 excluding VAT plus P&H
>
> A far cry from the $ 2050.00 ask on Ebay
>
> Cheers
> Graeme M
> Mt Martha Vic
> BJ8 32717
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 08:57:01 2013
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From: Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 15:37:12 +0000
References: <1021A574-453E-4200-A363-4BC4D9522E3B@yahoo.com>,
	<649F1F94A6844E88A3D29E5AA6307E23@Mike>
	FILETIME=[AF0F86B0:01CEFF2B]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 48 spoke wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had 72 spoke chrome wires on my '59 BN4 when I bought it and didn't like
their looks - too busy. About 5 years ago I decided to replace them. I
considered 60 spokes but wanted to use Dunlops (now actually MWS) and heard
there would be interference problems unless I fabricated spacers (there were
even very faint marks on the front drums where some of the spokes on the 72
spoke wheels had kissed them). I didn't want the hassle of spacers so went
with 48 spoke chrome from MWS. I have been really pleased with them. They were
true and have stayed that way for the close to 10,000 miles I've put on the
car since I installed them. Anyone familiar with the roads in the Nova Scotia,
PEI and New Brunswick (especially the secondary ones I favour) will tell you
they aren't the smoothest in existence but I've had no problems. I have since
gone with disc brakes on the front of the car so could use 60 spoke wheels but
I'm not likely to change. I too like the open look of the 48 spoke wires.
Rick swain


> > Hello,
> >
> >    I am looking for the definitive word on the 48 spoke wire wheels on my
> > '57
> > 100-6.  With the four wheel drum brakes, I have heard that you cannot
> > upgrade
> > to 60 spoke wheels due to the offset (or lack thereof). Is this true and
> > if
> > so, am I resigned to keep the 48 spoke wheels?  I like the open look of
> > less
> > wires, but drive a lot and worry sometimes about strength.  Thanks in
> > advance.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 09:35:45 2013
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References: <1021A574-453E-4200-A363-4BC4D9522E3B@yahoo.com>
	<649F1F94A6844E88A3D29E5AA6307E23@Mike>
	<BLU177-W3223AF5E9C3A8967CC9D3DB5C60@phx.gbl>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 08:34:34 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 48 spoke wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A long time ago I had the chance to trade my 48s for disk wheels and disk
brakes. I never looked back. No problems with bent spokes or too much
flexing when I drove the car hard along Mulholand Drive and the Santa
Monica mountain canyons. Yes I think wired wheels look better, but disk
wheels are more sound. Guys who race their Healeys have tried for yeas to
trade for my disk wheel, disk break setup.

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 11:21:03 2013
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From: Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 11:19:47 -0700
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 rear end
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello to the forum,

    I have multiple projects going on at once with my AH restoration so I
apologize for the multiple postings on multiple topics as of late.
    Currently there is over 1/2 inch play in the diff on my '57 100-6.  There
is a loud clunk when shifting gears, and at highway speed, it whines quite
loudly.  I have not opened it up yet to know what's going on, but I don't
think it can be good.  If adjustments are out and gears are worn, replacing
gears will be expensive I think.  I have also heard someone else talking on
this forum about loud rear ends with lots of play in 100-6's, but don't
remember what his responses were.
    Several questions - how bad can this be inside, and can you put the diff
from the 3000 (o/d) into a 100-6 (o/d)?  Are there advantages to the different
ratios?  A straight swap might be less expensive and easier than a rebuild of
the current one.  Again I haven't taken it apart yet so all of this is
preliminary.  Thanks in advance for your vast knowledge...

Darin
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 11:38:36 2013
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From: Rick Swain <rjswain@hotmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 18:37:26 +0000
References: <6D0AE712-566D-4C94-B571-FE376324108B@yahoo.com>
	FILETIME=[DC878110:01CEFF44]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 rear end
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The 100-6 rear end is a 4.11 while the 3000 is a 3.9. The overdrive ratios are
28% for the 100-6 vs 22% for the 3000. I changed my 100-6 rear end for a 3000
and was pleased with the result. While not quite like putting a Lempert 3.54
rear end in a 3000, I do have easier cruising at highway speeds and better
fuel economy. In addition, my speedometer, which used to be wildly optimistic,
is now closer to being accurate.
Rick Swain

> Hello to the forum,
>
>     I have multiple projects going on at once with my AH restoration so I
> apologize for the multiple postings on multiple topics as of late.
>     Currently there is over 1/2 inch play in the diff on my '57 100-6.
There
> is a loud clunk when shifting gears, and at highway speed, it whines quite
> loudly.  I have not opened it up yet to know what's going on, but I don't
> think it can be good.  If adjustments are out and gears are worn, replacing
> gears will be expensive I think.  I have also heard someone else talking on
> this forum about loud rear ends with lots of play in 100-6's, but don't
> remember what his responses were.
>     Several questions - how bad can this be inside, and can you put the
diff
> from the 3000 (o/d) into a 100-6 (o/d)?  Are there advantages to the
different
> ratios?  A straight swap might be less expensive and easier than a rebuild
of
> the current one.  Again I haven't taken it apart yet so all of this is
> preliminary.  Thanks in advance for your vast knowledge...
>
> Darin
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'I Erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com>, "'Rick Swain'"
  <rjswain@hotmail.com>
References: <1021A574-453E-4200-A363-4BC4D9522E3B@yahoo.com>
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Cc: 'Ahealey help' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 48 spoke wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Ira

I have disc wheels on the BN3 and besides being on the car from when it was
at the DHMC I wouldn't swap them for wires. However I wouldn't use standard
disc wheels for competition purposes as they are not strong enough.

The wheel centres are riveted to the rims and it's been found that under the
stresses of hard cornering in racing conditions the rivets pull through the
rims and centres.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of I Erbs
Sent: Monday, 23 December 2013 3:35 AM
To: Rick Swain
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 48 spoke wheels

A long time ago I had the chance to trade my 48s for disk wheels and disk
brakes. I never looked back. No problems with bent spokes or too much
flexing when I drove the car hard along Mulholand Drive and the Santa Monica
mountain canyons. Yes I think wired wheels look better, but disk wheels are
more sound. Guys who race their Healeys have tried for yeas to trade for my
disk wheel, disk break setup.

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
$12.75
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 18:50:37 2013
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From: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
To: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
References: <1DF10A81092D40B1A6509B27C5D2F481@Study>
	<EED30F95-D305-412C-8F85-682E5267EE32@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 12:47:07 +1100
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks to all of those who responded

I checked the Mota Lita sight after my initial email and Derek is correct 
the image of the Derrington Wheel they have on their Web site is a dead 
image of the original wheel with the correct  spoke spacing

 The only discernable difference I could see from the original wheel was the 
number of rivets holding the timber hand grips on the  wheel  have been 
reduced by 6 to 12 rather than the original wheels 18

The Mota Lita wheel is available either dished or flat  as required by the 
individual

Derek's advice is correct it would appear that Moss might be supplying the 
incorrect wheel as per the Photo on Wilko's web site or alternatively the 
wrong wheels have been ordered.

Cheers
Graeme M
Mount Martha
Vic
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To: "Graeme Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2013 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels


Mike Lempert's wheels are no doubt very nice but its the Moto Lita  that are 
the accurate  design and representative of the ones used back in the day. 
Moto Lita make many different styles and if people have one that does not 
have the three equally spaced spokes then they have bought the wrong model.

Derek
On 22 Dec 2013, at 02:16, "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:

> Oops should have let my fingers do the walking
>
> Just checked the internet and confirmed these wheels are available from 
> Mota
> Lita in the UK for approx $350.00 excluding VAT plus P&H
>
> A far cry from the $ 2050.00 ask on Ebay
>
> Cheers
> Graeme M
> Mt Martha Vic
> BJ8 32717
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 19:23:36 2013
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From: richard mayor <mayorrichard@hotmail.com>
To: Darin Graber <dkgraber85@yahoo.com>, healeys
  <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 02:19:52 +0000
References: <6D0AE712-566D-4C94-B571-FE376324108B@yahoo.com>
	FILETIME=[78209EA0:01CEFF85]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 rear end
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Darin,

To answer one of your questions....yes, you can put a 3000 differential into a
100-6 rear end.  The rear ends from the BN2 all the way through BJ8 are the
same housing. The only difference in the diffs are the number of teeth on the
ring and pinion.

Richard

> From: dkgraber85@yahoo.com
> Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 11:19:47 -0700
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100-6 rear end
>
> Hello to the forum,
>
>     I have multiple projects going on at once with my AH restoration so I
> apologize for the multiple postings on multiple topics as of late.
>     Currently there is over 1/2 inch play in the diff on my '57 100-6.
There
> is a loud clunk when shifting gears, and at highway speed, it whines quite
> loudly.  I have not opened it up yet to know what's going on, but I don't
> think it can be good.  If adjustments are out and gears are worn, replacing
> gears will be expensive I think.  I have also heard someone else talking on
> this forum about loud rear ends with lots of play in 100-6's, but don't
> remember what his responses were.
>     Several questions - how bad can this be inside, and can you put the
diff
> from the 3000 (o/d) into a 100-6 (o/d)?  Are there advantages to the
different
> ratios?  A straight swap might be less expensive and easier than a rebuild
of
> the current one.  Again I haven't taken it apart yet so all of this is
> preliminary.  Thanks in advance for your vast knowledge...
>
> Darin
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 22 19:25:04 2013
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References: <1DF10A81092D40B1A6509B27C5D2F481@Study>
	<EED30F95-D305-412C-8F85-682E5267EE32@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2013 18:16:16 -0800
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Derek & Graeme,

Actually, Mike Lempert worked with Roger Moment, Richard Gordon and I
believe John Harper, and he has reproduced a spot on accurate replica of
the wheel used on the 100s. This wheel was riveted to the hub and is
absolutely gorgeous.  Just ask me how I know... I've attached several
photos of an original wheel, and the one I had made by Mike L.

No reason in my opinion to pay big bucks for an original when the average
person cannot tell the difference in a Lempert wheel.

FYI, the cutout inside of the stock Moto Lita hub was machined by Al
Alfano's Father (Al was a former member of the Concours Committee).  Roger
and I turned down the aluminum rivet heads and then we used a special jig
that he made up  for his arbor press to crush the rivets in place.

Cheers,

Curt


On Sun, Dec 22, 2013 at 2:58 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Mike Lempert's wheels are no doubt very nice but its the Moto Lita  that
> are
> the accurate  design and representative of the ones used back in the day.
> Moto
> Lita make many different styles and if people have one that does not have
> the
> three equally spaced spokes then they have bought the wrong model.
>
> Derek

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of AH Steering Wheel Hub Rivets.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100M Wheel-1.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100M Wheel-2.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100M Wheel-3.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1674.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1671.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1672.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1673.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Roger Moment's Wheel.jpg]
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 07:30:09 2013
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From: warthodson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 09:28:45 -0500 (EST)
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And just incase it is not clear to everone, the 100S steering wheel is not the
same as what is referred to as a Derrington wheel. The primary visual
difference being that the spokes on a Derrington wheel are slotted & the 100S
wheel the spokes have a series of 6 holes of decreasing diameter from the hub
to the rim.
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/invente
http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/100s
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt@gmail.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Dec 22, 2013 8:24 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels


Derek & Graeme,

Actually, Mike Lempert worked with Roger Moment, Richard Gordon and I
believe John Harper, and he has reproduced a spot on accurate replica of
the wheel used on the 100s. This wheel was riveted to the hub and is
absolutely gorgeous.  Just ask me how I know... I've attached several
photos of an original wheel, and the one I had made by Mike L.

No reason in my opinion to pay big bucks for an original when the average
person cannot tell the difference in a Lempert wheel.

FYI, the cutout inside of the stock Moto Lita hub was machined by Al
Alfano's Father (Al was a former member of the Concours Committee).  Roger
and I turned down the aluminum rivet heads and then we used a special jig
that he made up  for his arbor press to crush the rivets in place.

Cheers,

Curt
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 09:36:59 2013
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 08:35:42 -0800
	FILETIME=[05A03FC0:01CEFFFD]
Subject: [Healeys] Merry Christmas - Down Under
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Merry Christmas to our friends in Australia.

Pearls Before Swine by Stephan Pastis
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 11:34:06 2013
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Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 10:32:26 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] 1959 Sprite of Donna Mae Mims at Auction
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Good Day and Seasons Greetings.B  I just came across this and thought it may
be of interest.

The pink Austin-Healey Sprite raced by Donna Mae Mims in the 60bs is up for
auction at Gooding & Company's Scottsdale auction on January 17 and 18
[ http://www.goodingco.com/category/scottsdale-2014/ ]B  You can read about it
here on Philip Powellbs blog at
http://www.marque1.com/marque1/2013/12/fast-ladys-pink-race-car-goes-to-aucti
on.htmlB 
orB  http://tinyurl.com/pskkxvoB 

Donna Mae MimsB  was the Sports Car Club of Americabs first female National
Champion. In 1963 she captured the SCCA H-Production Championship, driving a
1959 Austin-Healey Sprite Mk I.

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaB  B  B B B - Keep Smiling, Murphy
Lives
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 14:37:41 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Richard Kahn'" <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>, <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <COL127-W2886D79A2C28C576267914A4C10@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 08:36:18 +1100
thread-index: AQK/wipk6PuNvFbtPDZ+Eo7CPTMC2JiAxwdw
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Merry Christmas - Down Under
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Ho! Ho! Ho! to you Richard

A Merry Christmas to all on the list too.

It's Christmas Eve here in the Great South Land (aka Terra Australis)  and
after four days of near century temperatures, today we will probably reach
23C and it's drizzling.

Too bad as I was really looking forward to mowing.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

ps. The Healey Duncan Sports Saloon has made it from the UK to Singapore
without the ship being attacked by pirates and the ship going to pick it up
and bring it to Sydney has just entered the Java Sea.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Richard Kahn
Sent: Tuesday, 24 December 2013 3:36 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Merry Christmas - Down Under

Merry Christmas to our friends in Australia.

Pearls Before Swine by Stephan Pastis
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 18:03:42 2013
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	SMTP; 24 Dec 2013 01:01:52 +0000 UTC
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 20:02:06 -0500
From: Bob <robertlarson@att.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 5.1; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>,  Healey List
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <COL127-W2886D79A2C28C576267914A4C10@phx.gbl>
	<004901cf0027$0524dc20$0f6e9460$@tpg.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Merry Christmas - Down Under
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Patrick,

               Deal time....    I'll come mow if next snowstorm you come shovel, 
OK?

               Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.
Bob



On 12/23/2013 4:36 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
> Too bad as I was really looking forward to mowing.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 23 18:09:18 2013
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	Tue, 24 Dec 2013 12:04:23 +1100
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: <robertlarson@att.net>, "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <COL127-W2886D79A2C28C576267914A4C10@phx.gbl>
	<004901cf0027$0524dc20$0f6e9460$@tpg.com.au>
	<52B8DD0E.5030007@att.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 12:04:21 +1100
thread-index: AQK/wipk6PuNvFbtPDZ+Eo7CPTMC2AHCHfRyAkcg+r2YYLmdUA==
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Merry Christmas - Down Under
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day Bob

That's a deal as long as your shovel is self-propelled like my mower.

Still raining.

Hoo Roo

Patrick

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob [mailto:robertlarson@att.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, 24 December 2013 12:02 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn; Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Merry Christmas - Down Under

Hi Patrick,

               Deal time....    I'll come mow if next snowstorm you come
shovel, 
OK?

               Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.
Bob



On 12/23/2013 4:36 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
> Too bad as I was really looking forward to mowing.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 00:58:00 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 02:55:15 -0500
References: <1DF10A81092D40B1A6509B27C5D2F481@Study>,
	<EED30F95-D305-412C-8F85-682E5267EE32@gmail.com>,
	<AEE6AFF913484CEB981D979B3CA6609C@Study>
	FILETIME=[7B1CF100:01CF007D]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'd like to suggest that perhaps comfort should be a major consideration when
one is buying a new steering wheel.

The 14" Moto Lita wood wheel (Moss # 499-560, illustration A in the online
site), that I intalled on my BJ8 has litterally transformed my car from one I
couldn't wait to get out of after 50 miles (with the standard 16" or 17"
plastic wheel) to one I can probably drive 700 miles in a day.
The difference? - I can now move my legs about a little and change my seating
position slightly but significantly as I drive. I can even scratch an itchy
calf that previously would drive me crazy and take my mind off the road. After
about sixty miles with the old wheel, my ass would be so sore from my legs
being pinned in the exact same position by the big wheel that I'd start
sitting on one of my hands and hoping to stop and stretch. Not any more with
the new wheel!

I also like the fact that the uneven spoke angles on my beautiful Moto Lita
allow installation with the center spoke pointing down and the upper two
spokes NOT blocking the instuments.  This feels more natural and that center
spoke is no longer sticking up in my face and telling me the road is crowned
or my alignment is off by 3 degrees.

Regarding someone suggesting the Moto-Lita wheels Moss sells as possibly being
incorrect, weren't the Moto-Lita wheels period dealer or owner installed
accessories on the production big Healeys? And who's to say which styles -
spoke angles, diameters, rivet numbers, etc., the dealers would choose to sell
back in the day?

-Dave Murphy, '66 BJ8, Dearborn Michigan


> From: molony@dodo.com.au
> To: derek.c.job@gmail.com
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 12:47:07 +1100
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
>
> Thanks to all of those who responded
>
> I checked the Mota Lita sight after my initial email and Derek is correct
> the image of the Derrington Wheel they have on their Web site is a dead
> image of the original wheel with the correct  spoke spacing
>
>  The only discernable difference I could see from the original wheel was the
> number of rivets holding the timber hand grips on the  wheel  have been
> reduced by 6 to 12 rather than the original wheels 18
>
> The Mota Lita wheel is available either dished or flat  as required by the
> individual
>
> Derek's advice is correct it would appear that Moss might be supplying the
> incorrect wheel as per the Photo on Wilko's web site or alternatively the
> wrong wheels have been ordered.
>
> Cheers
> Graeme M
> Mount Martha
> Vic
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
> To: "Graeme Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2013 9:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
>
>
> Mike Lempert's wheels are no doubt very nice but its the Moto Lita  that are
> the accurate  design and representative of the ones used back in the day.
> Moto Lita make many different styles and if people have one that does not
> have the three equally spaced spokes then they have bought the wrong model.
>
> Derek
> On 22 Dec 2013, at 02:16, "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:
>
> > Oops should have let my fingers do the walking
> >
> > Just checked the internet and confirmed these wheels are available from
> > Mota
> > Lita in the UK for approx $350.00 excluding VAT plus P&H
> >
> > A far cry from the $ 2050.00 ask on Ebay
> >
> > Cheers
> > Graeme M
> > Mt Martha Vic
> > BJ8 32717
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roadwarriordave@hotmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 06:24:25 2013
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 8:22:58 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>,  "healeys
	@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I haven't changed my BJ8 wheel as yet---strange but I kinda like it.  OTOH, I changed my E-Type steering wheel from the flimsy original to a 1" less diameter, more solid wheel and it, as you say, transformed the driving pleasure of the car.  No more wheel bending as I turned a corner---now rock solid and steady.  Loved the change.

tom

---- Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com> wrote: 

=============
I'd like to suggest that perhaps comfort should be a major consideration when
one is buying a new steering wheel.

The 14" Moto Lita wood wheel (Moss # 499-560, illustration A in the online
site), that I intalled on my BJ8 has litterally transformed my car from one I
couldn't wait to get out of after 50 miles (with the standard 16" or 17"
plastic wheel) to one I can probably drive 700 miles in a day.
The difference? - I can now move my legs about a little and change my seating
position slightly but significantly as I drive. I can even scratch an itchy
calf that previously would drive me crazy and take my mind off the road. After
about sixty miles with the old wheel, my ass would be so sore from my legs
being pinned in the exact same position by the big wheel that I'd start
sitting on one of my hands and hoping to stop and stretch. Not any more with
the new wheel!

I also like the fact that the uneven spoke angles on my beautiful Moto Lita
allow installation with the center spoke pointing down and the upper two
spokes NOT blocking the instuments.  This feels more natural and that center
spoke is no longer sticking up in my face and telling me the road is crowned
or my alignment is off by 3 degrees.

Regarding someone suggesting the Moto-Lita wheels Moss sells as possibly being
incorrect, weren't the Moto-Lita wheels period dealer or owner installed
accessories on the production big Healeys? And who's to say which styles -
spoke angles, diameters, rivet numbers, etc., the dealers would choose to sell
back in the day?

-Dave Murphy, '66 BJ8, Dearborn Michigan


> From: molony@dodo.com.au
> To: derek.c.job@gmail.com
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 12:47:07 +1100
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
>
> Thanks to all of those who responded
>
> I checked the Mota Lita sight after my initial email and Derek is correct
> the image of the Derrington Wheel they have on their Web site is a dead
> image of the original wheel with the correct  spoke spacing
>
>  The only discernable difference I could see from the original wheel was the
> number of rivets holding the timber hand grips on the  wheel  have been
> reduced by 6 to 12 rather than the original wheels 18
>
> The Mota Lita wheel is available either dished or flat  as required by the
> individual
>
> Derek's advice is correct it would appear that Moss might be supplying the
> incorrect wheel as per the Photo on Wilko's web site or alternatively the
> wrong wheels have been ordered.
>
> Cheers
> Graeme M
> Mount Martha
> Vic
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
> To: "Graeme Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2013 9:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
>
>
> Mike Lempert's wheels are no doubt very nice but its the Moto Lita  that are
> the accurate  design and representative of the ones used back in the day.
> Moto Lita make many different styles and if people have one that does not
> have the three equally spaced spokes then they have bought the wrong model.
>
> Derek
> On 22 Dec 2013, at 02:16, "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:
>
> > Oops should have let my fingers do the walking
> >
> > Just checked the internet and confirmed these wheels are available from
> > Mota
> > Lita in the UK for approx $350.00 excluding VAT plus P&H
> >
> > A far cry from the $ 2050.00 ask on Ebay
> >
> > Cheers
> > Graeme M
> > Mt Martha Vic
> > BJ8 32717
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roadwarriordave@hotmail.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 06:38:13 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Dave Murphy'" <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>, "'healeys
	@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1DF10A81092D40B1A6509B27C5D2F481@Study>,
	<EED30F95-D305-412C-8F85-682E5267EE32@gmail.com>,
	<AEE6AFF913484CEB981D979B3CA6609C@Study>
	<COL127-W7A85E559C59FDDF44AA33A3C00@phx.gbl>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 13:36:53 -0000
thread-index: Ac8Afc7zMHk7HkWDSAmEMfMbOQJbCwALv8ug
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've got a wood rimmed wheel in my car. It's fine.
I've also got newish foam, 12yrs, in my seats. The seats were reassembled
before I knew about drilling out the foam. They'd be a total pain with the
big original wheel.......
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Dave Murphy
Sent: 24 December 2013 07:55
To: healeys @autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels

I'd like to suggest that perhaps comfort should be a major consideration
when one is buying a new steering wheel.

The 14" Moto Lita wood wheel (Moss # 499-560, illustration A in the online
site), that I intalled on my BJ8 has litterally transformed my car from one
I couldn't wait to get out of after 50 miles (with the standard 16" or 17"
plastic wheel) to one I can probably drive 700 miles in a day.
The difference? - I can now move my legs about a little and change my
seating position slightly but significantly as I drive. I can even scratch
an itchy calf that previously would drive me crazy and take my mind off the
road. After about sixty miles with the old wheel, my ass would be so sore
from my legs being pinned in the exact same position by the big wheel that
I'd start sitting on one of my hands and hoping to stop and stretch. Not any
more with the new wheel!

I also like the fact that the uneven spoke angles on my beautiful Moto Lita
allow installation with the center spoke pointing down and the upper two
spokes NOT blocking the instuments.  This feels more natural and that center
spoke is no longer sticking up in my face and telling me the road is crowned
or my alignment is off by 3 degrees.

Regarding someone suggesting the Moto-Lita wheels Moss sells as possibly
being incorrect, weren't the Moto-Lita wheels period dealer or owner
installed accessories on the production big Healeys? And who's to say which
styles - spoke angles, diameters, rivet numbers, etc., the dealers would
choose to sell back in the day?

-Dave Murphy, '66 BJ8, Dearborn Michigan


> From: molony@dodo.com.au
> To: derek.c.job@gmail.com
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2013 12:47:07 +1100
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
>
> Thanks to all of those who responded
>
> I checked the Mota Lita sight after my initial email and Derek is 
> correct the image of the Derrington Wheel they have on their Web site 
> is a dead image of the original wheel with the correct  spoke spacing
>
>  The only discernable difference I could see from the original wheel 
> was the number of rivets holding the timber hand grips on the  wheel  
> have been reduced by 6 to 12 rather than the original wheels 18
>
> The Mota Lita wheel is available either dished or flat  as required by 
> the individual
>
> Derek's advice is correct it would appear that Moss might be supplying 
> the incorrect wheel as per the Photo on Wilko's web site or 
> alternatively the wrong wheels have been ordered.
>
> Cheers
> Graeme M
> Mount Martha
> Vic
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
> To: "Graeme Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2013 9:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
>
>
> Mike Lempert's wheels are no doubt very nice but its the Moto Lita  
> that are the accurate  design and representative of the ones used back in
the day.
> Moto Lita make many different styles and if people have one that does 
> not have the three equally spaced spokes then they have bought the wrong
model.
>
> Derek
> On 22 Dec 2013, at 02:16, "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:
>
> > Oops should have let my fingers do the walking
> >
> > Just checked the internet and confirmed these wheels are available 
> > from Mota Lita in the UK for approx $350.00 excluding VAT plus P&H
> >
> > A far cry from the $ 2050.00 ask on Ebay
> >
> > Cheers
> > Graeme M
> > Mt Martha Vic
> > BJ8 32717
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> > donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 17:20:03 2013
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 16:18:33 -0800
	FILETIME=[D8F4D7F0:01CF0106]
Subject: [Healeys] Derrington Steering wheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Now I am VERY curious. My steering wheel says Mota Lita on the back side. Does
this indicate I might have a Derrington Wheel? I bought it used many years
ago. How can I verify it?
Rich Kahn
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 17:35:00 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 01:33:18 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:10.0.1)
	Gecko/20120208 Thunderbird/10.0.1
To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <COL127-W25B223FAF1EF30D4326679A4C30@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering wheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi
If I'm not mistaken the right expression should be a Derrington style 
steering wheel, regardless of who made it. And the ting that makes it a 
Derrington style wheel is the three evenly spread slotted spokes.
Hence a steering wheel with holes in the spokes, ala 100S, is not a 
Derrington style wheel.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

Per

Richard Kahn skrev 2013-12-25 01:18:
> Now I am VERY curious. My steering wheel says Mota Lita on the back side. Does
> this indicate I might have a Derrington Wheel? I bought it used many years
> ago. How can I verify it?
> Rich Kahn
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 17:44:48 2013
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From: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Full-Name: "dwflagg@juno.com" <dwflagg@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 00:42:20 GMT
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy holidays!!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A very Merry Christmas to all, and to all happy Healeying!! Cheers, Doug
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 18:16:35 2013
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 19:15:01 -0600
From: "Ed Kaler (JB)" <shop@justbrits.com>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy holidays!!
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<< On 12/24/2013 6:42 PM, dwflagg@juno.com wrote:
> A very Merry Christmas to all, and to all happy Healeying!!  >>

RATS  Doug ! !   I agree 1000% ! ! !

You beat me to it by MINUTES <G> ! ! !

Ed
Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com

PS:  And as a SAFETY thought, as LITTLE snow as possible <VBG> ! ! !
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 24 18:49:03 2013
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From: "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 17:47:38 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8BE0posTsMWg6ZT8GHngWSC0dAJg==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Interior door handle removal BN7
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Greetings.  I'm working on the interior, and cannot figure out how to remove
the interior door handles on my 3000 BN7.  I know there is a pin somewhere,
but I cannot located it nor figure out how to remove the escutcheon.  There
appears to be 3 pieces: 1) the handle itself, 2) a small ring, and 3) the
escutcheon.  Where is the pin located, and how does one get to it?

 

Thanks, and Merry Christmas.

 

 

Bruce

Brea, CA

1960 BN7
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Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 18:12:38 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re:  Interior door handle removal BN7
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The spring has a high side and a low side. Because of this, it is 
easier to see the pin hole and remove it if the low side is towards 
one of the pin holes. You might need to use a nail about the size of 
the pin instead of an awl. You can make a new pin from a nail too.

>Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 18:06:29 -0800
>To: "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
>From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Interior door handle removal BN7
>
>You need to compress the escutcheon down and use an awl to press out 
>the pin. There is a spiral spring inside of the escutcheon that 
>pushes the escutcheon out towards the handle. It helps a lot to 
>rotate the spring so it's low point is oriented towards one side of 
>the hole for the pin. Hard to describe but you will understand why 
>once you take it all apart.
>
>John
>San Jose, CA
>'62 BT7
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 01:12:21 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Peace to all
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

To those of you who believe in Christmas, and those of us who do not: may
peace reside in your home and in your loved ones'

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 02:26:05 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'healeys @autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 09:24:29 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac8BUxyRS5TxZv0nSSCEjs0hbQvk0g==
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Subject: [Healeys] Happy Christmas
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Thank you to all who have helped me over the year. I often wish that I could
put as much in as I take out, if you see what I mean.

Anyhow, "Merry Christmas one and all".

Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 02:31:34 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 09:29:42 +0000 (UTC)
From: Mitch <dayton21@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
  (Win)/8.0.3_GA_5664)
Thread-Topic: Merry Xmas and Happy New Year
Thread-Index: G/AokF96Emx13xUg604xL70+m2RYbw==
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Subject: [Healeys] Merry Xmas  and Happy New Year
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Merry Xmas and Very Happy New Year to all!
B 
B 
Mitch and family
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 02:46:40 2013
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To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net, Spridget list <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Enjoy the weekend.
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Karen and I are flying out of SLC to spend some time with family in 
Orange County.
Team.Net email seems to be fairly stable, so I am not too worried about 
it.  I'll check
on things remotely, but there may be issues that require my presence to 
fix.  So
enjoy your last weekend of 2013, see you next week.

mjb.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 05:35:12 -0800
From: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net>
To: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>, Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Peace to all
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Always thought you were a class act Ira. Same to you and your family and all on the list.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60AN5

-------- Original message --------
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> 
Date:12/25/2013  01:12  (GMT-08:00) 
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Peace to all 

To those of you who believe in Christmas, and those of us who do not: may
peace reside in your home and in your loved ones'

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 07:37:46 2013
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From: <healeyguy@aol.com>
To: "=?utf-8?Q?healeys@autox.team.net?=" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 14:14:30 +0000
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Felix Feline has reported this Christmas morning the passing of Phil and Flo Murinae. The two were last seen leaving their home near the bend along Kitchendrain when the faint scent of Peanut Butter overtook them and they crashed headlong into the terminal devices that had been placed to protect the area. The report from the scene indicates that their demise was for the most part instantaneous.  After extraction they were immediately removed to the garden. 

Just a little non traditional Christmas humor.  If you didnbt get it an explanation can be sent for a Small fee. 

Aloha

Perry


Sent from Windows Mail
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 08:10:53 2013
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References: <20131225143741.D8D3743017@autox.team.net>
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 10:09:10 -0500
To: healeyguy@aol.com
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Passing of Phil and Flo Murinae
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Perry--

Please make a donation in my name to the Rodent Memorial Chapel.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Wed, Dec 25, 2013 at 9:14 AM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:

> Felix Feline has reported this Christmas morning the passing of Phil and
> Flo Murinae. The two were last seen leaving their home near the bend along
> Kitchendrain when the faint scent of Peanut Butter overtook them and they
> crashed headlong into the terminal devices that had been placed to protect
> the area. The report from the scene indicates that their demise was for the
> most part instantaneous.  After extraction they were immediately removed to
> the garden.
>
> Just a little non traditional Christmas humor.  If you didnb t get it an
> explanation can be sent for a Small fee.
>
> Aloha
>
> Perry
>
>
> Sent from Windows Mail
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 09:10:07 2013
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 11:08:40 -0500 (EST)
To: eyera3000@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Peace to all
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I agree with Mike, may the peace continue through all of us on this  list. 
This is one of the best presents I've ever had the opportunity to share.  
Thanks Mark for keeping it running and thanks to all for keeping it 
interesting. 
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598 

Always thought  you were a class act Ira. Same to you and your family and 
all on the  list.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60AN5


To those of you who  believe in Christmas, and those of us who do not: may
peace reside in your  home and in your loved ones'

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and  Consultant
Portland, OR.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 09:56:43 2013
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References: <CAHZDnjoMJaawAJ888a64jEuuQPUH8KOgCOqvj0-dYRm=YpQ80g@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 10:55:19 -0600
From: Neil Anderson <neilandcustom@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: test
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

This should have been sent to the list yesterday, but I was out of town for
the holidays.  Happy Holidays.

Neil Anderson

http://sebringsprite.com/pdf-files/Oh,%20Healey%20Night.pdf
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 09:58:38 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 11:57:21 -0500
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts@windstream.net>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>, healeyguy@aol.com
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Passing of Phil and Flo Murinae
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I shed a few mousek tears over them:)


---- Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote: 

=============
Perry--

Please make a donation in my name to the Rodent Memorial Chapel.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Wed, Dec 25, 2013 at 9:14 AM, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:

> Felix Feline has reported this Christmas morning the passing of Phil and
> Flo Murinae. The two were last seen leaving their home near the bend along
> Kitchendrain when the faint scent of Peanut Butter overtook them and they
> crashed headlong into the terminal devices that had been placed to protect
> the area. The report from the scene indicates that their demise was for the
> most part instantaneous.  After extraction they were immediately removed to
> the garden.
>
> Just a little non traditional Christmas humor.  If you didnb t get it an
> explanation can be sent for a Small fee.
>
> Aloha
>
> Perry
>
>
> Sent from Windows Mail
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 13:01:48 2013
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
From: editorgary@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 14:49:45 -0500 (EST)
x-aol-global-disposition: G
	s=20121107; t=1388000985;
	bh=xe+hgh7cs/NlwQAQQagQNx8nPHg/zrylpx6unvT8QOo=;
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Subject: [Healeys] Happy Holidays Mr. Bradakis
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 Mark, Thanks again for all you've done this year for the classic car hobby.
Have a great holiday.
And if Team.net should go down through some act of one of the supreme-being
concepts, just let it go. The world will continue to rotate until you get
back.
G.



Gary Anderson------------------------------
Healeys.net

Message: 10Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 02:45:15 -0700
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark@bradakis.com>To: healeys@Autox.Team.Net, Spridget
list <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Enjoy the weekend.
 Karen and I are flying out of SLC to spend some time with family in Orange
County.
Team.Net email seems to be fairly stable, so I am not too worried about it.
I'll checkon things remotely, but there may be issues that require my presence
to fix.
 Soenjoy your last weekend of 2013, see you next
week.mjb.------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 13:05:45 2013
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From: "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@comcast.net>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 14:57:52 -0500
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Subject: [Healeys] Pete Gros
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Merry Christmas to all!!!!

Hate to bust the list, but does anyone know what has happened to Pete Gros.
He makes keys to LBCs  I tried calling his cell phone and his home phone tu
without any success.

I you have any news please let me know

Thanks

 

BJ7 Registry

Tomkayb@comcast.net

Happy Healeying!
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 16:14:52 2013
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References: <000001cf01ab$98df7350$ca9e59f0$@comcast.net>
From: Richard Korn <cynicbass@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 23:11:28 +0000
To: Tom Blaskovics <tomkayb@comcast.net>
Cc: "<healeys@autox.team.net>" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pete Gros
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Tom,
He just found the correct cylinder for my ignition switch for my BN2 which I
had asked about ages ago. Corresponded with him just a few weeks ago at
petegroh@gmail.com ,he might be away for the holidays.

Richard
Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 25, 2013, at 19:57, "Tom Blaskovics" <tomkayb@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Merry Christmas to all!!!!
>
> Hate to bust the list, but does anyone know what has happened to Pete Gros.
> He makes keys to LBCs  I tried calling his cell phone and his home phone tu
> without any success.
>
> I you have any news please let me know
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> BJ7 Registry
>
> Tomkayb@comcast.net
>
> Happy Healeying!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 19:12:10 2013
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	Wed, 25 Dec 2013 20:10:16 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 21:10:15 -0500
Thread-index: Ac8B3xcYryRzxVv/QISlw9f1/TpaMA==
Content-language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] My site
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just put a search function on the site. It is on the Update History page.
At the present time it is not quite what I want as it contains ads (gotta
have them on the free version) and I do not want to pay an annual fee for
the one that has no ads until I am sure that this is the one I want. I will
continue to try to find a better search function. If anyone has a suggestion
as to where on my site this search function should be, let me know. Right
now, it is no big deal to put it on every page if that is the wish of the
community. Frankly, I often forget just what I have on the site so this
should help me respond to the list.

 

My holiday present to everyone.

 

John Sims, BN6

Aberdeen, NJ

 

www.healey6.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Wed Dec 25 20:03:03 2013
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From: <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2013 03:00:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?set_screw?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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what is the size of the set screw that holds the cylinder in the glove box lock? TIA hjim
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 18:21:47 2013
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From: "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:24:46 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Net Operation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi guys

Just wanted to check if the net was up and running or down.  Has been
unnaturally quiet of late and have only seen about 2 or 3 emails
over the past couple of days,

Might have to wait until Mark returns from his weekend away

Cheers and a Happy New Year to all from Down Under


Graeme  M
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 18:35:22 2013
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	a=hTZeC7Yk6K0A:10 a=frz4AuCg-hUA:10
From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'healeys @autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 12:00:36 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac8C+z+BXzXkXXltTHassudBRL8rKg==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] Siamized ports
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Am I right in my supposition that my BT7 MkII does indeed have "siamized
ports"? They surely look to be in closely coupled pairs, but I am probably
missing the exact meaning of the word in the super high tech world that is
the AH engine.

Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 19:40:41 2013
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 18:39:02 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

At the Canadian GP held at Mosport Park Sept 30, 1961, Grant Clark drove a
Healey 3000 #171 in the Production Car race and crashed.B  Here is a brief
description from bCanada Track & Trafficb, Nov.1961, Page 15.

bGrant Clark, driving a Healey 3000 in the 20-lap production race prior to
the Grand Prix, had taken too broad an arc at Turn One on his second lap.B 
The Healey's left front wheel hit the gravel and dug in, flipping the car
violently three times before it skidded 150 feet along the track upside
down.B  Clark, badly shaken and scraped up about the face and right arm, was
not seriously hurt but was hors de combat for the day.b

A video taken at Mosport in the early 60bs and transferred to a digital
format by Rupert Lloyd Thomas can be seen at the following website
https://www.dropbox.com/s/frp8wrtgeeoil5u/Mosport_Sixties_a.wmv?m
At the 3:24 point in the film there are a few scenes of his wrecked Austin
Healey 3000 #171.B 

Enjoy & Seasons Greatings.

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaB  B  B B B - Keep Smiling, Murphy
Lives
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 19:41:20 2013
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From: <healeyguy@aol.com>
To: =?utf-8?Q?Simon_Lachlan?= <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, 
	"=?utf-8?Q?healeys@autox.team.net?=" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 02:27:40 +0000
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Siamized_ports?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Six intake and six exhaust ports in your cylinder head. That would mean they are is not siamese ports

Aloha

Perry



From: Simon Lachlan

Am I right in my supposition that my BT7 MkII does indeed have "siamized
ports"? They surely look to be in closely coupled pairs, but I am probably
missing the exact meaning of the word in the super high tech world that is
the AH engine.

Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 19:44:19 2013
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From: Randy Hicks <healey100m@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2013 14:34:58 -0700
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Red Healey in Scottsdale
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Anyone on the list driving a red 3000 at E. Shea and 101 in Scottsdale, AZ
around 1:45 PM today? Top down and looking good.

Randy
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 20:23:08 2013
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References: <73A6F371E996457EAD983624CDEFB862@Study>
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 19:21:29 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Graeme Molony <molony@dodo.com.au>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Net Operation
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I had an email bounce back

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
On Dec 27, 2013 5:24 PM, "Graeme Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:

> Hi guys
>
> Just wanted to check if the net was up and running or down.  Has been
> unnaturally quiet of late and have only seen about 2 or 3 emails
> over the past couple of days,
>
> Might have to wait until Mark returns from his weekend away
>
> Cheers and a Happy New Year to all from Down Under
>
>
> Graeme  M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 20:24:28 2013
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Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2013 19:22:57 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Victoria British
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

2nd try

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "I Erbs" <eyera3000@gmail.com>
Date: Dec 26, 2013 5:25 PM
Subject: Victoria British
To: "Ahealey help" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Cc:

Just stopped by VB in Lexana, Kansas. Nice show room. Had an MG B and
Spitfire plus two A series engines on display. Helped a guy buying fuses
and a fan belt for a TR6. He's delivering it to Littleton, CO.
Bought some side curtain seals.

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 21:11:00 2013
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2013 15:25:07 -0800
From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Victoria British
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just stopped by VB in Lexana, Kansas. Nice show room. Had an MG B and
Spitfire plus two A series engines on display. Helped a guy buying fuses
and a fan belt for a TR6. He's delivering it to Littleton, CO.
Bought some side curtain seals.

Ira Erbs
IT Educator and Consultant
Portland, OR.

Sent from my mobile phone. What you get may not be what I typed.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 21:16:24 2013
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Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2013 11:16:35 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>
To: James Shope <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] set screw
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oh wow, I am pretty sure that is British Standard Cycle thread if I recall
correctly, I don't know the size.


On Thu, Dec 26, 2013 at 11:00 AM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:

> what is the size of the set screw that holds the cylinder in the glove box
> lock? TIA hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 21:21:29 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'healeys @autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2013 22:24:58 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac8CiU32EmH7L2FkSBG5zYZuQpFl3Q==
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Is there or was there ever a Weber 45 dcoe 16? "16"....not 13? I have a
fellow on eBay who said that he had a pair of 45DCOE "15"s. I contacted him;
he came back and said "oops I meant "13"s". Now he's emailed me and said he
has one "13" and one "16". Maybe there was a 40 DCOE 16 and he's got the
wrong top cover.....

 

I'm going to meet a guy tomorrow to look at some Weber stuff. We're talking
DCOE 45s here....are all 36mm chokes the same? Yes, they may all be 36mm,
but, if I buy 3 chokes out of his bits and bobs drawer, will I find it a
battle to find more identical 36mm chokes? 

Or, are they all identical &/or it doesn't matter....36mm is 36mm and that's
all that matters?? 

Simon
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Fri Dec 27 21:46:20 2013
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Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 22:11:54 -0500
From: Michael J Maloney <mikljmal@gmail.com>
To: Healey List <Healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Season
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Traditional noises of the Season to all on the List.
 Your input has been so valuable to me. One cannot appreciate how many
fasteners hold a BJ8 together from frame to driving,until one completes
that task. You have helped me in SO many ways. Thank you.
Mike Maloney, 66 HLY
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 01:41:16 2013
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 19:39:30 +1100
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Subject: [Healeys] Cold Air Duct Washer
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G'day

 

I am about to refit the engine bay cold air duct back to the BN3. I am
referring to the short metal round tube that the Kopex tubing attaches and
runs to behind the grille in the 100s and NOT a cold air duct to the
carburettors.

 

Does anyone know if the metal tube bolts metal to metal to the firewall or
is there some form of round gasket in between?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 06:26:31 2013
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 13:24:43 +0000
References: <52be5181.84ac2b0a.3374.ffff8453SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: "'healeys @autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Can't say for sure that there wasn't but a 16 does not appear in a list I have
of the most common ones.

There is a 45DCOE 13 which seemed to be for single carb usage on engines
around 1250cc using a 38 venturi

Derek


On 26 Dec 2013, at 22:24, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:

> Is there or was there ever a Weber 45 dcoe 16? "16"....not 13? I have a
> fellow on eBay who said that he had a pair of 45DCOE "15"s. I contacted
him;
> he came back and said "oops I meant "13"s". Now he's emailed me and said he
> has one "13" and one "16". Maybe there was a 40 DCOE 16 and he's got the
> wrong top cover.....
>
>
>
> I'm going to meet a guy tomorrow to look at some Weber stuff. We're talking
> DCOE 45s here....are all 36mm chokes the same? Yes, they may all be 36mm,
> but, if I buy 3 chokes out of his bits and bobs drawer, will I find it a
> battle to find more identical 36mm chokes?
>
> Or, are they all identical &/or it doesn't matter....36mm is 36mm and
that's
> all that matters??
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 07:56:53 2013
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References: <009101cf03a8$54e4e5f0$feaeb1d0$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 09:55:10 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Air Duct Washer
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Patrick,
My BN1 is very early so may be different from the BN3 but it has just a
mesh gauze clamped between the vent valve and the firewall.

Michael S
BN1 #174


On Sat, Dec 28, 2013 at 3:39 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn@tpg.com.au> wrote:

> G'day
>
>
>
> I am about to refit the engine bay cold air duct back to the BN3. I am
> referring to the short metal round tube that the Kopex tubing attaches and
> runs to behind the grille in the 100s and NOT a cold air duct to the
> carburettors.
>
>
>
> Does anyone know if the metal tube bolts metal to metal to the firewall or
> is there some form of round gasket in between?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 08:26:39 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Cold_Air_Duct_Washer?=
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The blanking plates on the air box inside the cockpit and the engine bay, the ones around the steering column,  use a thin felt gasket/washer. I thought that the tube you are asking about had a similar gasket.  But with the screen that Mike mentioned the felt gasket may not have accomplished much. One of the little details I have forgotten.....

Aloha

Perry



Sent from Windows Mail



From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn

G'day

I am about to refit the engine bay cold air duct back to the BN3. I am
referring to the short metal round tube that the Kopex tubing attaches and
runs to behind the grille in the 100s and NOT a cold air duct to the
carburettors.

Does anyone know if the metal tube bolts metal to metal to the firewall or
is there some form of round gasket in between?
Hoo Roo
Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 08:53:54 2013
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	2013 07:52:11 -0800 (PST)
From: R. Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 10:52:09 -0500
To: Healey List Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I am in the process of wiring relays into my driving and fog light "harness."
I have researched the internet and the list and have conflicting schemes.

Using a Bosch relay, which is the grounded terminal, 85 or 86?  (Whichever is
not grounded goes to my dashboard switch.)  Further, it would appear that
terminal 30 is connected to the solenoid for constant power and 87 goes to the
lights.  Is this correct?

Thank you for your help!

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 09:02:24 2013
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	Sat, 28 Dec 2013 08:00:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 16:00:41 +0000
References: <52be5181.84ac2b0a.3374.ffff8453SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Cc: "'healeys @autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I was looking at some other info I have and it seems there is/was a 45DCOE 16.
The info references it to being used on a BMW 1800.  The 45 / 13 can be used
on a Healey. I think the most important thing is to have three matching
carbs.

Derek
On 26 Dec 2013, at 22:24, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:

> Is there or was there ever a Weber 45 dcoe 16? "16"....not 13? I have a
> fellow on eBay who said that he had a pair of 45DCOE "15"s. I contacted
him;
> he came back and said "oops I meant "13"s". Now he's emailed me and said he
> has one "13" and one "16". Maybe there was a 40 DCOE 16 and he's got the
> wrong top cover.....
>
>
>
> I'm going to meet a guy tomorrow to look at some Weber stuff. We're talking
> DCOE 45s here....are all 36mm chokes the same? Yes, they may all be 36mm,
> but, if I buy 3 chokes out of his bits and bobs drawer, will I find it a
> battle to find more identical 36mm chokes?
>
> Or, are they all identical &/or it doesn't matter....36mm is 36mm and
that's
> all that matters??
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 09:37:00 2013
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References: <52be5181.84ac2b0a.3374.ffff8453SMTPIN_ADDED_BROKEN@mx.google.com>
	<52865C85-E79C-4F95-A0F0-E33C4E5AD123@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 11:35:19 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Derek,
Not sure if you are committed to the Webers that you mentioned but I have
two 45DCOE 9 carbs for sale. These are not a pair in that they do not have
consecutive serial numbers and will require all new jets, jet holders etc
but they would be a very good starting point for a Weber conversion.
Please contact me off line if they are of interest.

Michael S




On Sat, Dec 28, 2013 at 11:00 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> I was looking at some other info I have and it seems there is/was a 45DCOE
> 16.
> The info references it to being used on a BMW 1800.  The 45 / 13 can be
> used
> on a Healey. I think the most important thing is to have three matching
> carbs.
>
> Derek
> On 26 Dec 2013, at 22:24, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
> > Is there or was there ever a Weber 45 dcoe 16? "16"....not 13? I have a
> > fellow on eBay who said that he had a pair of 45DCOE "15"s. I contacted
> him;
> > he came back and said "oops I meant "13"s". Now he's emailed me and said
> he
> > has one "13" and one "16". Maybe there was a 40 DCOE 16 and he's got the
> > wrong top cover.....
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm going to meet a guy tomorrow to look at some Weber stuff. We're
> talking
> > DCOE 45s here....are all 36mm chokes the same? Yes, they may all be 36mm,
> > but, if I buy 3 chokes out of his bits and bobs drawer, will I find it a
> > battle to find more identical 36mm chokes?
> >
> > Or, are they all identical &/or it doesn't matter....36mm is 36mm and
> that's
> > all that matters??
> >
> > Simon
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 10:06:49 2013
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	28 Dec 2013 17:05:07 +0000
From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'R. Price Lindsay'" <050.rpl@gmail.com>, "'Healey List Healey
	List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <7385CBC1-FFF1-4294-9FAD-D19BA275EBB4@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 12:04:14 -0500
thread-index: Ac8D5NsUeGzA2rmBRIy+WL2modCYkwACW5Sw
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Price, I have mine grounded at terminal 85 with 86 connected to the switch.

Yes, terminal 30 gets direct power from the battery (I have it going through
a 20A in-line fuse) and 87 goes to the lights.  I have attached the circuit
diagram for my lights.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC USA

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of R. Price Lindsay
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 10:52 AM
To: Healey List Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring

I am in the process of wiring relays into my driving and fog light
"harness."
I have researched the internet and the list and have conflicting schemes.

Using a Bosch relay, which is the grounded terminal, 85 or 86?  (Whichever
is not grounded goes to my dashboard switch.)  Further, it would appear that
terminal 30 is connected to the solenoid for constant power and 87 goes to
the lights.  Is this correct?

Thank you for your help!

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/bmp which had a name of DRIVING LIGHT CIRCUIT - UPDATED.bmp]
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 10:16:09 2013
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References: <20131226030033.12305.qmail@server278.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 12:14:32 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "healeymanjim@hansencc.net" <healeymanjim@hansencc.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] set screw
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Jim,
As far as I can tell it is an 8BA thread. The OD of the one I have is
0.083" and it looks like around 58 TPI, bit hard to measure without a
comparator.
8 BA is 0.0866 OD and 59.1 TPI
Unfortunately the smallest BA tap I have is 6 BA so I cannot check the
female thread for you.
1/16 and 52 British Cycle threads are also close but I would bet on the 8BA
as it is the closest.

Michael S
BN1 #174

BTW I have a complete BJ8 glove box c/w key that I will sell for 50% of the
MM price.


On Wed, Dec 25, 2013 at 10:00 PM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:

> what is the size of the set screw that holds the cylinder in the glove box
> lock? TIA hjim
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 10:28:40 2013
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	ESMTP id 0A/C9-02681-6790FB25; Sat, 28 Dec 2013 17:25:16 +0000
From: "Alex" <alexmm@roadrunner.com>
To: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>, "'R. Price Lindsay'"
	<050.rpl@gmail.com>, "'Healey List HealeyList'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <7385CBC1-FFF1-4294-9FAD-D19BA275EBB4@gmail.com>
	<00ff01cf03ee$d5fd70d0$81f85270$@rr.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 12:25:06 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's my wiring diagram for driving lights (JPEG file attached).

== Alex in Maine
     "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7
     "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321
     Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 
     1965 MG Midget
     http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Healey_driving_light_wiring.jpg]
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 10:59:27 2013
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From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
References: <20131226030033.12305.qmail@server278.com>
	<CAB3i7LLOd4qYtah8B_e=2E4iv5y+EN4nJvqfeeLz0ASR6s1u=w@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 09:57:43 -0800
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] set screw
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Gentlemen:

Below is a copy of my reply to Healeyman Jim a couple of days ago - should 
have copied the List as well, but didn't:

Jim:

It's 4 - 40.  I had to find / make a new one for my glove box lock earlier
this year.  Hard to find - I wound up buying a small pack of 6 (I think) at
a hobby supply store -they were socket head, and I had to mess around with
it to get it right.  The original was probably 1/8" long, I ground mine down
so it would not protrude beyond the wall of the cylinder case and foul the
lock barrels rotation.  Picky crap, but it all worked well in the end.

It's possible that someone before me had modified the threads for the screw, 
but I doubt it.  (I've owned the car for 33 years). The 4 - 40 screw worked 
perfectly, so I assumed that it was the original thread size.

Michael, you might check your existing sample with a handy 4 - 40 screw and 
settle the argument - I for one would like to know, since I wouldn't want to 
have given Healeyman Jim a bum steer!

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb



----Original Message----- 
From: Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 9:14 AM
To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] set screw

Hi Jim,
As far as I can tell it is an 8BA thread. The OD of the one I have is
0.083" and it looks like around 58 TPI, bit hard to measure without a
comparator.
8 BA is 0.0866 OD and 59.1 TPI
Unfortunately the smallest BA tap I have is 6 BA so I cannot check the
female thread for you.
1/16 and 52 British Cycle threads are also close but I would bet on the 8BA
as it is the closest.

Michael S
BN1 #174

BTW I have a complete BJ8 glove box c/w key that I will sell for 50% of the
MM price.


On Wed, Dec 25, 2013 at 10:00 PM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:

> what is the size of the set screw that holds the cylinder in the glove box
> lock? TIA hjim
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 11:29:33 2013
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 13:27:26 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] set screw
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thanks for sending that Earl, but I think you are giving Jim a bum steer.
I have a 4-40 NC tap and it will not go near the original thread in the
lock that I have. I'm pretty sure that if I gave it a bit of a push I could
run the tap through the zinc die-cast but it would have to remove quite a
bit of metal.
The screw I have appears to be original, it has a raised countersink slot
head and is actually chromed!!!
When I put a 40 TPI thread gauge on the screw it does not match at all but
a 56 almost settles in as does a 64...
I don't have a 60...
Of course Jim will have to be very careful about this as it probably good
for many concours points ;-)

Michael S
BN1#174




On Sat, Dec 28, 2013 at 12:57 PM, Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:

> Gentlemen:
>
> Below is a copy of my reply to Healeyman Jim a couple of days ago - should
> have copied the List as well, but didn't:
>
> Jim:
>
> It's 4 - 40.  I had to find / make a new one for my glove box lock earlier
> this year.  Hard to find - I wound up buying a small pack of 6 (I think) at
> a hobby supply store -they were socket head, and I had to mess around with
> it to get it right.  The original was probably 1/8" long, I ground mine
> down
> so it would not protrude beyond the wall of the cylinder case and foul the
> lock barrels rotation.  Picky crap, but it all worked well in the end.
>
> It's possible that someone before me had modified the threads for the
> screw, but I doubt it.  (I've owned the car for 33 years). The 4 - 40 screw
> worked perfectly, so I assumed that it was the original thread size.
>
> Michael, you might check your existing sample with a handy 4 - 40 screw
> and settle the argument - I for one would like to know, since I wouldn't
> want to have given Healeyman Jim a bum steer!
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
>
>
>
> ----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter
> Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 9:14 AM
> To: healeymanjim@hansencc.net
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] set screw
>
>
> Hi Jim,
> As far as I can tell it is an 8BA thread. The OD of the one I have is
> 0.083" and it looks like around 58 TPI, bit hard to measure without a
> comparator.
> 8 BA is 0.0866 OD and 59.1 TPI
> Unfortunately the smallest BA tap I have is 6 BA so I cannot check the
> female thread for you.
> 1/16 and 52 British Cycle threads are also close but I would bet on the 8BA
> as it is the closest.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> BTW I have a complete BJ8 glove box c/w key that I will sell for 50% of the
> MM price.
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 25, 2013 at 10:00 PM, <healeymanjim@hansencc.net> wrote:
>
>  what is the size of the set screw that holds the cylinder in the glove box
>> lock? TIA hjim
>>
>
>


-- 
Michael Salter
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 11:53:38 2013
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 12:51:42 -0600
From: "Ed Kaler (JB)" <shop@justbrits.com>
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To: 'Healey List Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Price, you might want to check out the set-up I did for a Customer a few 
years back.

Also, keep in mind that for "most" situations, you should only have ONE 
[1] lite on at
a time.

Fog on left and 'beam' on tight [kerb side <G>].

On front page.

Ed
Please visit MY site at:                    www.justbrits.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 15:34:18 2013
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From: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 17:32:31 -0500
To: Healey List Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Thank you for those who responded to my query.

Fascinating the different approaches to this installation I received.  Some
run both lights together, some run each individually, some run the lights with
high beams, some run the lights with low beams and some run the lights
independently of the head lights.

A lot of information to contemplate. Again thank you.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

Sent from my iPhone
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 15:44:27 2013
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From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 14:42:38 -0800
References: <7AYw1n00A0NyJgq01AYx2r>
To: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Depending on where you are, there will laws that dictate how they must be
wired. Here in CA if they are spots they can only come on with the low beams,
etc.



On Dec 28, 2013, at 2:32 PM, Price Lindsay wrote:

> Thank you for those who responded to my query.
>
> Fascinating the different approaches to this installation I received.  Some
> run both lights together, some run each individually, some run the lights
with
> high beams, some run the lights with low beams and some run the lights
> independently of the head lights.
>
> A lot of information to contemplate. Again thank you.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 15:48:11 2013
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 17:43:48 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Cc: Healey List Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A word of caution on that Price.
It has been my experience that it is imperative that driving lights go out
when you dip (dim) your lights.
The last thing you want to be doing on an unfamiliar windy road on a wet
night is fumbling for an accessory switch when an approaching car comes
upon you unexpectedly.

Michael S


On Sat, Dec 28, 2013 at 5:32 PM, Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thank you for those who responded to my query.
>
> Fascinating the different approaches to this installation I received.  Some
> run both lights together, some run each individually, some run the lights
> with
> high beams, some run the lights with low beams and some run the lights
> independently of the head lights.
>
> A lot of information to contemplate. Again thank you.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
All wisdom is plagiarism; only stupidity is original.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 16:20:28 2013
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: "'Healey List Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <7AYw1n00A0NyJgq01AYx2r>
	<1D09FF1E-C5F4-49B6-BE86-D18F11D817C8@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 18:18:28 -0500
thread-index: Ac8EHjMbNkkB/vl6TlOxhOp3B7OwowAAtmJg
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I guess there must be a good reason for such a law, but it makes no sense to
me.  "Spots" may be a different description of lights from what is typically
used as driving lights on Healeys, I don't know.  
When I am driving on a dark, lonely road at night, I want the maximum amount
of light ahead of me as I can get.  Too many people are hitting deer, bears,
and possums that appear out of nowhere.  Therefore, I want the driving
lights to be on with the high beams.  If a car appears around the next bend
and I hit the dimmer switch, the headlights go to low beams and the driving
lights go out.  The main problem I have noted with this arrangement is that
there is so much traffic now at all hours that I can't really keep the high
beams on for more than a few seconds, so high beams have become useless.

I've noticed that I'm blinded anyway by those monster pickup trucks on low
beams that have 4 square feet of headlight surface, plus running lights in
the bumpers, just about in line with my eyeballs when I'm in the Healey.

I wired my driving lights with a switch with a manual position for daytime
use and an auto position to operate with the low beams.  OFF is in the
center of the switch. 

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC  USA  

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Wilko2

Depending on where you are, there will laws that dictate how they must be
wired. Here in CA if they are spots they can only come on with the low
beams, etc.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 16:24:02 2013
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From: "John Trifari" <jtrifari@comcast.net>
To: "'Wilko2'" <e-wilkins@cox.net>, "'Price Lindsay'"
  <050.rpl@gmail.com>
References: <7AYw1n00A0NyJgq01AYx2r>
	<1D09FF1E-C5F4-49B6-BE86-D18F11D817C8@cox.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 15:22:33 -0800
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Cc: 'Healey List Healey List' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I think common sense would dictate that if the lights are foggers they
should come on with the low means. If they are driving lights they should
come on with the high beams--otherwise why bother installing these lights at
all.  Run the lights through the dip switch > relay >lamps.  Run the relay
ground through a dash switch.  John Trifari  Golden Gate AHC 

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Wilko2
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 2:43 PM
To: Price Lindsay
Cc: Healey List Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring

Depending on where you are, there will laws that dictate how they must be
wired. Here in CA if they are spots they can only come on with the low
beams, etc.



On Dec 28, 2013, at 2:32 PM, Price Lindsay wrote:

> Thank you for those who responded to my query.
>
> Fascinating the different approaches to this installation I received.  
> Some run both lights together, some run each individually, some run 
> the lights
with
> high beams, some run the lights with low beams and some run the lights 
> independently of the head lights.
>
> A lot of information to contemplate. Again thank you.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 17:30:46 2013
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From: "Healey Bruce" <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 16:28:47 -0800
Thread-Index: Ac8ELPAs0WsGC/bDTXaQVWJNeL7vGA==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Steering olive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I just ordered a new olive/compression fitting from LBCC, so it was sourced
through Moss.  The olive is split.  My previous 2 olives were, like a
standard plumbing compression fitting, solid, i.e., not split.  I can
appreciate that a split probably makes it tons easier to remove, but are
there any concerns about the adequacy of the seal?

 

Appreciate the input and opinions.

 

Bruce

Brea, CA

1960 BN7
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 17:36:04 2013
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 16:33:52 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Healey Bruce <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>, healeys@autox.team.net
References: <01a401cf042c$f5536870$dffa3950$@com>
	s=q20121106; t=1388277268;
	bh=7edrpAlDEX1J1ZWYRxsAvVPCzGD3fQ8U2VdfSXX2Md8=;
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	DgmuIAxIM8p7w==
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering olive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I've never had a problem with the split ones.  Sealing up the split is no more of a problem than sealing the fitting to 
the steering box and stator tube.

Bob


On 12/28/2013 4:28 PM, Healey Bruce wrote:
> I just ordered a new olive/compression fitting from LBCC, so it was sourced
> through Moss.  The olive is split.  My previous 2 olives were, like a
> standard plumbing compression fitting, solid, i.e., not split.  I can
> appreciate that a split probably makes it tons easier to remove, but are
> there any concerns about the adequacy of the seal?
>
>   
>
> Appreciate the input and opinions.
>
>   
>
> Bruce
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
> t
>
>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 17:39:00 2013
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 16:36:56 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
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To: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
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	bh=spvA3qrbp1Kc7TKgYc6AMVmsW0iE9R1qWZWrKWddaTI=;
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Subject: [Healeys] Tires and wheels for BN2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yep, our favorite topic (next to oil).

What's the List wisdom/opinion regarding tires and wheels for a BN2/100M?  We'll probably stay with 48-spoke painted 
wheels; but have a feeling finding rubber might be a problem.

TIA,
Bob

-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 18:19:55 2013
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From: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 01:16:19 +0000
References: <AFF6805A-AABA-41B3-A214-4CDFCED04F97@gmail.com>,
	<CAB3i7LJ9iP7J3BJdYgT3Fjdrc21BB_QtdP9LaBU53p5MO-iuAA@mail.gmail.com>
	FILETIME=[94EEB9B0:01CF0433]
Cc: Healey List Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Mike:

Not sure if this is correct. My current Mini Cooper has driving lights and
they operate only when the low beams are on, when the high beams are on, the
driving lights go out, I believe that is what current laws require in most
provinces, not sure about the USA.



Jean


> Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 17:43:48 -0500
> From: michaelsalter@gmail.com
> To: 050.rpl@gmail.com
> CC: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
>
> A word of caution on that Price.
> It has been my experience that it is imperative that driving lights go out
> when you dip (dim) your lights.
> The last thing you want to be doing on an unfamiliar windy road on a wet
> night is fumbling for an accessory switch when an approaching car comes
> upon you unexpectedly.
>
> Michael S
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 28, 2013 at 5:32 PM, Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Thank you for those who responded to my query.
> >
> > Fascinating the different approaches to this installation I received.
Some
> > run both lights together, some run each individually, some run the lights
> > with
> > high beams, some run the lights with low beams and some run the lights
> > independently of the head lights.
> >
> > A lot of information to contemplate. Again thank you.
> >
> > Price Lindsay
> > 67 BJ8
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> All wisdom is plagiarism; only stupidity is original.
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 19:31:10 2013
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Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 21:29:14 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: Healey Bruce <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering olive
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Bruce, the olives were originally "split" and I have never experianced
leakage problems with them.

Michael S
BN1 #174


On Sat, Dec 28, 2013 at 7:28 PM, Healey Bruce <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>wrote:

> I just ordered a new olive/compression fitting from LBCC, so it was sourced
> through Moss.  The olive is split.  My previous 2 olives were, like a
> standard plumbing compression fitting, solid, i.e., not split.  I can
> appreciate that a split probably makes it tons easier to remove, but are
> there any concerns about the adequacy of the seal?
>
>
>
> Appreciate the input and opinions.
>
>
>
> Bruce
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
> _______________________________________________
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>


-- 
All wisdom is plagiarism; only stupidity is original.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 22:53:27 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, "healeys
	@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 00:50:59 -0500
References: <000601cf0289$51e57100$f5b05300$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	FILETIME=[F3A0DD00:01CF0459]
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Just curious as may be many others as to what all the numbers mean on a Weber
DCOE carburetor. I thought I understood them a little, but now I'm really
confused!
I thought 45 was the throat diameter in millimeters, but are we to understand
that the choke is really 36 mm? Then what is 45? And to what does the 16 or 13
refer?
-Dave Murphy, Dearborn MI, '66 BJ8

> Is there or was there ever a Weber 45 dcoe 16? "16"....not 13? I have a
> fellow on eBay who said that he had a pair of 45DCOE "15"s. I contacted
him;
> he came back and said "oops I meant "13"s". Now he's emailed me and said he
> has one "13" and one "16". Maybe there was a 40 DCOE 16 and he's got the
> wrong top cover.....

> I'm going to meet a guy tomorrow to look at some Weber stuff. We're talking
> DCOE 45s here....are all 36mm chokes the same? Yes, they may all be 36mm,
> but, if I buy 3 chokes out of his bits and bobs drawer, will I find it a
> battle to find more identical 36mm chokes?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sat Dec 28 23:08:25 2013
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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2013 22:03:32 -0800
References: <000601cf0289$51e57100$f5b05300$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	<COL127-W30EB4AD6A7E3B205846C0EA3CF0@phx.gbl>
To: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys
  @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm not a super expert, but here goes
45 is the bore size. Different sized chokes are fitted depending on the
application. In general the smaller the choke the better the low end, the
bigger the better the top end.
The -XX has to do with the original equipment application for that carb.
A -XX might have been set up for Rolls Canhardly (rolls down one hill, can
hardly make it up the next) do all of the jets, chokes, emulsion tubes are
right for that engine. If you are putting a -XX on you car some or all of the
calibrated parts will need changing.
Remember high school algebra where you had trouble solving with 2 variables?
With a DCOE you have 7. Have fun.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 28, 2013, at 21:50, Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Just curious as may be many others as to what all the numbers mean on a
Weber
> DCOE carburetor. I thought I understood them a little, but now I'm really
> confused!
> I thought 45 was the throat diameter in millimeters, but are we to
understand
> that the choke is really 36 mm? Then what is 45? And to what does the 16 or
13
> refer?
> -Dave Murphy, Dearborn MI, '66 BJ8
>
>> Is there or was there ever a Weber 45 dcoe 16? "16"....not 13? I have a
>> fellow on eBay who said that he had a pair of 45DCOE "15"s. I contacted
> him;
>> he came back and said "oops I meant "13"s". Now he's emailed me and said
he
>> has one "13" and one "16". Maybe there was a 40 DCOE 16 and he's got the
>> wrong top cover.....
>
>> I'm going to meet a guy tomorrow to look at some Weber stuff. We're
talking
>> DCOE 45s here....are all 36mm chokes the same? Yes, they may all be 36mm,
>> but, if I buy 3 chokes out of his bits and bobs drawer, will I find it a
>> battle to find more identical 36mm chokes?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 04:32:34 2013
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	Sun, 29 Dec 2013 03:30:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 11:30:43 +0000
References: <000601cf0289$51e57100$f5b05300$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	<COL127-W30EB4AD6A7E3B205846C0EA3CF0@phx.gbl>
To: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
Cc: "healeys
  @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Richard,

That is pretty much it in a nutshell.

My 45DCOE 9s came with a 'standard' package of jets and tubes that are
considered reasonable for Healeys and probably jags as well. Only one item
needed to be changed after set up on the rolling road, that was the idle Jet.
I have not yet found a source that lists all of the Weber categories and sub
categories of the models that were and are available. Nobody seems to be able
to properly explain the numbering systems. The only real 'known' is the
pre-fix number which is the choke size.

I suspect that you could probably fit any 45 DCOE to a Healey, but you would
most likely have to change a lot of the jets and tubes depending on exactly
which model 45DCOE you have acquired.

Derek
On 29 Dec 2013, at 05:50, Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Just curious as may be many others as to what all the numbers mean on a
Weber
> DCOE carburetor. I thought I understood them a little, but now I'm really
> confused!
> I thought 45 was the throat diameter in millimeters, but are we to
understand
> that the choke is really 36 mm? Then what is 45? And to what does the 16 or
13
> refer?
> -Dave Murphy, Dearborn MI, '66 BJ8
>
>> Is there or was there ever a Weber 45 dcoe 16? "16"....not 13? I have a
>> fellow on eBay who said that he had a pair of 45DCOE "15"s. I contacted
> him;
>> he came back and said "oops I meant "13"s". Now he's emailed me and said
he
>> has one "13" and one "16". Maybe there was a 40 DCOE 16 and he's got the
>> wrong top cover.....
>
>> I'm going to meet a guy tomorrow to look at some Weber stuff. We're
talking
>> DCOE 45s here....are all 36mm chokes the same? Yes, they may all be 36mm,
>> but, if I buy 3 chokes out of his bits and bobs drawer, will I find it a
>> battle to find more identical 36mm chokes?
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 04:36:22 2013
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 11:34:42 +0000
References: <52BF6EA8.7020906@comcast.net>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires and wheels for BN2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

OK I'll bite.

If you are sticking to 48 spokes and the original rim width then 165/70s are
the way to go. They are closest to the originals and will provide a better
driving experience tin the 100 than having the car 'overtyred'.

Derek
On 29 Dec 2013, at 00:36, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> Yep, our favorite topic (next to oil).
>
> What's the List wisdom/opinion regarding tires and wheels for a BN2/100M?
We'll probably stay with 48-spoke painted wheels; but have a feeling finding
rubber might be a problem.
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> --
> *******************************************************************
> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>
> *******************************************************************
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 05:45:39 2013
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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
To: "'healeys @autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000601cf0289$51e57100$f5b05300$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	<COL127-W30EB4AD6A7E3B205846C0EA3CF0@phx.gbl>
	<F3E513A3-800B-4772-93F9-ACB404738C84@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 12:43:49 -0000
Thread-Index: Ac8EiWnaWTWGSNsnSSSvmXDSwpjshwAApEMA
Content-Language: en-gb
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

A huge amount of research, questioning and resultant confusion has yielded
me a few certainties. And a lot of confusion which I happily share with you,
below....
Forget chokes....they are interchangeable within carbs of the same size as
are most of the other parts...jets, springs etc.
The only thing that seems to really put the cat among the pigeons is this
business of "progression holes". Weber installations seem to tend towards a
built in flat spot as the accelerator pushes the carb from its choke inlets
to its main flow. How and where and when this dreaded flat spot occurs is
dependent on one's type of engine (twin cam?) or one's camshaft &/or
ignition. People (often apparently with the wrong carbs in the wrong car)
seem to cure the flatspot by opening up one of the settings - I forget which
- and thus overcoming the issue with a flood of petrol. The "progression
holes", which each allow in a small amount of extra fuel, are exposed and
come into effect "progressively" (Geddit now?) as the carbs' butterflies
open. This fuel, allowed in by one, then two, then three etcetc holes, cures
the flatspot. Some peoples' triple Webers seem to yield a perfectly sensible
mpg whilst others' are pretty horrific. It's my guess that a lot of this
results from the having to overcome the flatspot area with buckets of fuel.
So, a 9 will have different holes from a 13. (Bigger, smaller, more or
less...I'm not sure). You can make all the interchangeable variable parts
inside the same, but if one of yr carbs has different holes from yr other
carbs, you're in trouble.
Vehicle manufacturers got together with Weber and chose the right carbs for
their vehicles' specs. Some of the newer 45s appear to have been just plain
wrong in the cars into which they were sold by tuners/the aftermarket. Weber
45 152s when put into Alphas and, I suppose, hot VWs had a massive flatspot
problem. (A twincam issue here). People drilled in "progression holes" until
- surprise - Weber came up with the 45 152G which had the factory's
progression holes drilled per the amateur tuners' drilling efforts etcetc.
The "G" apparently stands for "German"!?!
Enough. I'm still without any Webers but am leaning, no pun intended,
towards 9s.
Happy New Year
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Job [mailto:derek.c.job@gmail.com] 
Sent: 29 December 2013 11:31
To: Dave Murphy
Cc: Simon Lachlan; healeys @autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions

Richard, 

That is pretty much it in a nutshell.

My 45DCOE 9s came with a 'standard' package of jets and tubes that are
considered reasonable for Healeys and probably jags as well. Only one item
needed to be changed after set up on the rolling road, that was the idle
Jet. I have not yet found a source that lists all of the Weber categories
and sub categories of the models that were and are available. Nobody seems
to be able to properly explain the numbering systems. The only real 'known'
is the pre-fix number which is the choke size.

I suspect that you could probably fit any 45 DCOE to a Healey, but you would
most likely have to change a lot of the jets and tubes depending on exactly
which model 45DCOE you have acquired.

Derek
On 29 Dec 2013, at 05:50, Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Just curious as may be many others as to what all the numbers mean on 
> a Weber DCOE carburetor. I thought I understood them a little, but now 
> I'm really confused!
> I thought 45 was the throat diameter in millimeters, but are we to 
> understand that the choke is really 36 mm? Then what is 45? And to 
> what does the 16 or 13 refer?
> -Dave Murphy, Dearborn MI, '66 BJ8
> 
>> Is there or was there ever a Weber 45 dcoe 16? "16"....not 13? I have 
>> a fellow on eBay who said that he had a pair of 45DCOE "15"s. I 
>> contacted
> him;
>> he came back and said "oops I meant "13"s". Now he's emailed me and 
>> said he has one "13" and one "16". Maybe there was a 40 DCOE 16 and 
>> he's got the wrong top cover.....
> 
>> I'm going to meet a guy tomorrow to look at some Weber stuff. We're 
>> talking DCOE 45s here....are all 36mm chokes the same? Yes, they may 
>> all be 36mm, but, if I buy 3 chokes out of his bits and bobs drawer, 
>> will I find it a battle to find more identical 36mm chokes?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> 
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 08:03:06 2013
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From: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
References: <52BF6EA8.7020906@comcast.net>
	<F6D4CCBB-B62B-485D-9C18-732652B9B177@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 09:01:17 -0600
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires and wheels for BN2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Derek, I think you meant a 165/80, the 70 series being too "short" and 
probably not the way you would want to go with the already limited ground 
clearance with a 100.

But I totally agree that the correct skinny tires provide a better driving 
experience.

As far as actual tire choices in that size, they are fairly limited,  there 
are Nankangs for under $70, 
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/searchTiresBySize.do?sortBy=prca&ar=80&fqs=true&rd=15&sw=false&cs=165

I was surprised to see this option available, I ran these on my 100 and was 
happy with the Firestone F560s for not much more than the Nankangs (and you 
don't have to get over the fact that your Healey has tires that say 
"Nankang" on the sidewall. 
http://www.cokertire.com/firestone-f560-165r15.html

I believe there are also much more expensive options available from antique 
tire specialists as well, believe there is a Vredstein Sprint in a 185/70 
that many are happy with, not sure if they are available in 165/80.  As 
mentioned I would prefer the skinnier tire for a lighter, agile, period feel 
when driving.

I personally don't have a problem putting the lower end tires on my cars, 
they are undoubtedly better than what was put on the cars new, and anybody 
selling tires in the USA knows that if they are substandard or unsafe the 
product liability lawyers will sue the pants off of them.

If you really want a period look I have some Dunlop Gold Seal bias plys that 
are old, but look very nice, have great tread and hold air, would let them 
go very cheap, but I wouldn't use them for highway driving because of the 
age.

Regards, Greg Lemon
1968 TR250 (current)
1954 BN1 (former)

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 5:34 AM
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires and wheels for BN2

> OK I'll bite.
>
> If you are sticking to 48 spokes and the original rim width then 165/70s 
> are
> the way to go. They are closest to the originals and will provide a better
> driving experience tin the 100 than having the car 'overtyred'.
>
> Derek
> On 29 Dec 2013, at 00:36, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Yep, our favorite topic (next to oil).
>>
>> What's the List wisdom/opinion regarding tires and wheels for a BN2/100M?
> We'll probably stay with 48-spoke painted wheels; but have a feeling 
> finding
> rubber might be a problem.
>>
>> TIA,
>> Bob
>>
>> --
>> *******************************************************************
>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>>
>> *******************************************************************
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon@neb.rr.com
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 08:23:53 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 08:22:10 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac8Eqb3pUeIjJarfQ+6BzA/6f8hWqQ==
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Marque-SF Concorso
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 I thoroughly enjoyed reading Rocky Santiago's article in this months
Marque. And as usual it was nice to visit with Rocky and of course the
weekend in Santa Fe was fabulous.

I was disappointed that a 4th Healey of one of our frequent listers, Jim
Hockert was unable to attend due to last minute mechanical issues with his
outstanding Healey. As Rocky noted, 3 of the original drivers from the
Healey Challenge series were also in attendance. Dan Pendergraft is a close
friend and neighbor so I hear all his stories frequently, but with Phillip
Coombs and Dave Long altogether the fish stories were wonderful.

 It was especially great for me as the organizers asked me to be a judge at
the event, which allowed me even greater access to Sir Sterling, Denise and
Norman Dewes. I was able to elicit a belly laugh from Sterling and I feel my
life is now complete.  ;~)

 I truly hope that some of you will make an effort to attend the Concorso
next Sept. It promises to get better and better.

Happy New Year

Dave

PS.. the divorce is nearly final and I've been able to keep my shop so send
me some work, the new debt is daunting... :~(

 

 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 08:29:04 2013
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	Sun, 29 Dec 2013 07:26:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 15:26:19 +0000
References: <52BF6EA8.7020906@comcast.net>
	<F6D4CCBB-B62B-485D-9C18-732652B9B177@gmail.com>
	<380CF65725CE417EA0E6B3B034DE4D0B@livingroompc>
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com>
Cc: healeylist <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires and wheels for BN2
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes I agree, 165/80 would be better. I didn't think they were available.

Derek
On 29 Dec 2013, at 15:01, "Greg Lemon" <glemon@neb.rr.com> wrote:

> Derek, I think you meant a 165/80, the 70 series being too "short" and
probably not the way you would want to go with the already limited ground
clearance with a 100.
>
> But I totally agree that the correct skinny tires provide a better driving
experience.
>
> As far as actual tire choices in that size, they are fairly limited,  there
are Nankangs for under $70,
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/searchTiresBySize.do?sortBy=prca&ar=
80&fqs=true&rd=15&sw=false&cs=165
>
> I was surprised to see this option available, I ran these on my 100 and was
happy with the Firestone F560s for not much more than the Nankangs (and you
don't have to get over the fact that your Healey has tires that say "Nankang"
on the sidewall. http://www.cokertire.com/firestone-f560-165r15.html
>
> I believe there are also much more expensive options available from antique
tire specialists as well, believe there is a Vredstein Sprint in a 185/70 that
many are happy with, not sure if they are available in 165/80.  As mentioned I
would prefer the skinnier tire for a lighter, agile, period feel when
driving.
>
> I personally don't have a problem putting the lower end tires on my cars,
they are undoubtedly better than what was put on the cars new, and anybody
selling tires in the USA knows that if they are substandard or unsafe the
product liability lawyers will sue the pants off of them.
>
> If you really want a period look I have some Dunlop Gold Seal bias plys that
are old, but look very nice, have great tread and hold air, would let them go
very cheap, but I wouldn't use them for highway driving because of the age.
>
> Regards, Greg Lemon
> 1968 TR250 (current)
> 1954 BN1 (former)
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 5:34 AM
> To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>
> Cc: "healeylist" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires and wheels for BN2
>
>> OK I'll bite.
>>
>> If you are sticking to 48 spokes and the original rim width then 165/70s
are
>> the way to go. They are closest to the originals and will provide a better
>> driving experience tin the 100 than having the car 'overtyred'.
>>
>> Derek
>> On 29 Dec 2013, at 00:36, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Yep, our favorite topic (next to oil).
>>>
>>> What's the List wisdom/opinion regarding tires and wheels for a BN2/100M?
>> We'll probably stay with 48-spoke painted wheels; but have a feeling
finding
>> rubber might be a problem.
>>>
>>> TIA,
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> --
>>> *******************************************************************
>>> Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net
>>>
>>> *******************************************************************
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/glemon@neb.rr.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 08:40:47 2013
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 07:39:02 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yesterday I emailed the 'Healey List' about Grant Clark racing a Healey 3000
in which he crashed at Mosport in 1961.B  In that email I included a link to a
video of racing at Mosport in the early sixties in which the wrecked car was
shown a few times..

Evidently the original poster didnbt have permission from Rupert Lloyd
Thomas, who created the digital video, to share the video and therefore it was
removed and obviously my link is now useless.B  If the video is reposted, I
will forward the link to the 'Healey List'.

Sorry about all this.B  But enjoy the season and Happy New Year to all.B  And
remember, keep smiling. :-)

--Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaB  B  B B B - Keep Smiling, Murphy
Lives
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From: Don Tate <bn2cars@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 12:49:17 -0500
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ 8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

As long as we're on our favorite subject, I'm considering  replacing my tires
with either Nexen's 165's or Vredenstein Sprint Classics in the same size.
Cost delta is about $200 but if performance is noticeably better, it would be
worth the extra money IMO.

Anyone tried the Nexen's?  Vredenstein's? Would appreciate your input.

TIA,
Don Tate
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 11:03:29 2013
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References: <1388331542.54339.YahooMailBasic@web162601.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 13:01:46 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Interestingly that same car was, many years ago, brought into my shop for
some tidy up work.
It was a very interesting car having all aluminium body panels and a bonnet
with no scoop. I understand that it was built by Austin of Canada for Grant
Clark to race.
My customer sold the car to a collector in the U.S. and I didn't hear
anything more about it until a couple of years back when I was contacted by
a well known local collector who wanted me to come and advise him on what
he should do with the ex Grant Clark Healey that he had recently purchased
from R & M Auctions for whom he worked.
I went to see the car and was sorry to see that it had been extensively
modified with all the latest competition modifications thus loosing most of
its historic value.
Fortunately all the removed parts had been retained and the current owner
who, many years previously had watched the same car race very successfully
at various venues, was entertaining the idea of restoring the 3000 to its
original competition condition.
Sadly the project never went ahead as he sold the car  and I have now lost
track of it again.

Michael S
BN1 #174




On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 10:39 AM, J. Scott Morris <jstmorris@yahoo.com>wrote:

> Yesterday I emailed the 'Healey List' about Grant Clark racing a Healey
> 3000
> in which he crashed at Mosport in 1961.B  In that email I included a link
> to a
> video of racing at Mosport in the early sixties in which the wrecked car
> was
> shown a few times..
>
> Evidently the original poster didnb t have permission from Rupert Lloyd
> Thomas, who created the digital video, to share the video and therefore it
> was
> removed and obviously my link is now useless.B  If the video is reposted, I
> will forward the link to the 'Healey List'.
>
> Sorry about all this.B  But enjoy the season and Happy New Year to all.B
>  And
> remember, keep smiling. :-)
>
> --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaB  B  B B B - Keep Smiling, Murphy
> Lives
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
All wisdom is plagiarism; only stupidity is original.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 11:56:01 2013
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Authentication-Results: cox.net; none
From: Wilko2 <e-wilkins@cox.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 10:54:14 -0800
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <1388331542.54339.YahooMailBasic@web162601.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<7W231n01Y0NyJgq01W24eU>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Here's a page with some good pics as it was sold a couple of years ago:
http://www.rmauctions.com/lots/lot.cfm?lot_id=668582

It's also got a nice spread the "The Healey Book"

Here's info on a 2013 trip to Monterrey with the car looking as it did back in
the day when it still had the hood scoop and the distinctive middle roll bar:
http://stevemckelvie.wordpress.com/2013/08/03/1960-canadian-drivers-champions
hip-winning-austin-healey-to-go-to-monterey/



On Dec 29, 2013, at 10:01 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

> Interestingly that same car was, many years ago, brought into my shop for
> some tidy up work.
> It was a very interesting car having all aluminium body panels and a bonnet
> with no scoop. I understand that it was built by Austin of Canada for Grant
> Clark to race.
> My customer sold the car to a collector in the U.S. and I didn't hear
> anything more about it until a couple of years back when I was contacted by
> a well known local collector who wanted me to come and advise him on what
> he should do with the ex Grant Clark Healey that he had recently purchased
> from R & M Auctions for whom he worked.
> I went to see the car and was sorry to see that it had been extensively
> modified with all the latest competition modifications thus loosing most of
> its historic value.
> Fortunately all the removed parts had been retained and the current owner
> who, many years previously had watched the same car race very successfully
> at various venues, was entertaining the idea of restoring the 3000 to its
> original competition condition.
> Sadly the project never went ahead as he sold the car  and I have now lost
> track of it again.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 10:39 AM, J. Scott Morris
<jstmorris@yahoo.com>wrote:
>
>> Yesterday I emailed the 'Healey List' about Grant Clark racing a Healey
>> 3000
>> in which he crashed at Mosport in 1961.B  In that email I included a link
>> to a
>> video of racing at Mosport in the early sixties in which the wrecked car
>> was
>> shown a few times..
>>
>> Evidently the original poster didnb t have permission from Rupert Lloyd
>> Thomas, who created the digital video, to share the video and therefore it
>> was
>> removed and obviously my link is now useless.B  If the video is reposted,
I
>> will forward the link to the 'Healey List'.
>>
>> Sorry about all this.B  But enjoy the season and Happy New Year to all.B
>> And
>> remember, keep smiling. :-)
>>
>> --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaB  B  B B B - Keep Smiling, Murphy
>> Lives
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> All wisdom is plagiarism; only stupidity is original.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 14:39:35 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Wilko2'" <e-wilkins@cox.net>
References: <1388331542.54339.YahooMailBasic@web162601.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<7W231n01Y0NyJgq01W24eU>
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 08:37:35 +1100
Content-Language: en-au
Thread-Index: AQLNJ9NWzy29btGb3+fqAoPoY0GPNQHA/QBRAmCLXnmYTl11QA==
Cc: 'Austin Healey' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

I remember the RM Auctions ad very well as it contained a glaring error.

It mentions that the car was originally registered as 57 FAC which it was
not. This really through me off the scent on a major article I was writing
at the time for US publication Vintage Racecar Magazine.

57 FAC was one of three cars prepared for the 1963 Sebring 12 Hour and is a
right hand drive BJ7. The car in question is a 1959 Mk1 BN7 and is left hand
drive. After Sebring in '63 57 FAC went to Austin Canada and was also driven
by Grant. In press ads of the time BMC Canada promoted his victories in 57
FAC, but use photos of the earlier car. Now that was particularly confusing
for the automotive historian. 57 FAC has been in Australia for some years.

I managed to drive 57 FAC in anger at the Phillip Island circuit a few years
back and it was a blast, but I should say that the highlight was being
overtaken under brakes by a Maserati 250F.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Wilko2
Sent: Monday, 30 December 2013 5:54 AM
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961

Here's a page with some good pics as it was sold a couple of years ago:
http://www.rmauctions.com/lots/lot.cfm?lot_id=668582

It's also got a nice spread the "The Healey Book"

Here's info on a 2013 trip to Monterrey with the car looking as it did back
in the day when it still had the hood scoop and the distinctive middle roll
bar:
http://stevemckelvie.wordpress.com/2013/08/03/1960-canadian-drivers-champion
s
hip-winning-austin-healey-to-go-to-monterey/



On Dec 29, 2013, at 10:01 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

> Interestingly that same car was, many years ago, brought into my shop 
> for some tidy up work.
> It was a very interesting car having all aluminium body panels and a 
> bonnet with no scoop. I understand that it was built by Austin of 
> Canada for Grant Clark to race.
> My customer sold the car to a collector in the U.S. and I didn't hear 
> anything more about it until a couple of years back when I was 
> contacted by a well known local collector who wanted me to come and 
> advise him on what he should do with the ex Grant Clark Healey that he 
> had recently purchased from R & M Auctions for whom he worked.
> I went to see the car and was sorry to see that it had been 
> extensively modified with all the latest competition modifications 
> thus loosing most of its historic value.
> Fortunately all the removed parts had been retained and the current 
> owner who, many years previously had watched the same car race very 
> successfully at various venues, was entertaining the idea of restoring 
> the 3000 to its original competition condition.
> Sadly the project never went ahead as he sold the car  and I have now 
> lost track of it again.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
>
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 10:39 AM, J. Scott Morris
<jstmorris@yahoo.com>wrote:
>
>> Yesterday I emailed the 'Healey List' about Grant Clark racing a 
>> Healey
>> 3000
>> in which he crashed at Mosport in 1961.B  In that email I included a 
>> link to a video of racing at Mosport in the early sixties in which 
>> the wrecked car was shown a few times..
>>
>> Evidently the original poster didnb t have permission from Rupert 
>> Lloyd Thomas, who created the digital video, to share the video and 
>> therefore it was removed and obviously my link is now useless.B  If 
>> the video is reposted,
I
>> will forward the link to the 'Healey List'.
>>
>> Sorry about all this.B  But enjoy the season and Happy New Year to 
>> all.B And remember, keep smiling. :-)
>>
>> --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaB  B  B B B - Keep Smiling, 
>> Murphy Lives _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 14:41:35 2013
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From: "David Porter" <frogeye@porterscustom.com>
To: "'healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 14:39:55 -0700
Thread-Index: Ac8E3oNaHKpG71VTQN+mP39ooZb06w==
Subject: [Healeys] oops
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My apologies to Sir Stirling Moss. I spelled his name wrong in my previous
post. No E in there.. thanks to the list for setting me straight..

Dave

 

frogeye@porterscustom.com

Porter Customs   2909 Arno NE
Albuquerque, NM USA 87107
505-352-1378
Porter Custom Bicycles

gallery:
http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff

GO HERE:  <http://porterbikes.com/> http://porterbikes.com/  nice
pictures-fun facts-my world
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 15:13:29 2013
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
References: <1388331542.54339.YahooMailBasic@web162601.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<7W231n01Y0NyJgq01W24eU>
	<E4FF7F95-EAD3-4DE1-BFDF-A6C7DDFFB563@cox.net>
	<001801cf04de$31690250$943b06f0$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 08:11:42 +1000
Thread-Index: AQLNJ9NWzy29btGb3+fqAoPoY0GPNQHA/QBRAmCLXnmYTl11QIAAC52A
Content-Language: en-au
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Patrick
You must be able to type faster than me. I was halfway through basically the
same reply.(Maybe it was registered in Canada with that number?).
Happy New Year
John Rowe
Qld Aust.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Monday, 30 December 2013 7:38 AM
To: 'Wilko2'
Cc: 'Austin Healey'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961

G'day

I remember the RM Auctions ad very well as it contained a glaring error.

It mentions that the car was originally registered as 57 FAC which it was
not. This really through me off the scent on a major article I was writing
at the time for US publication Vintage Racecar Magazine.

57 FAC was one of three cars prepared for the 1963 Sebring 12 Hour and is a
right hand drive BJ7. The car in question is a 1959 Mk1 BN7 and is left hand
drive. After Sebring in '63 57 FAC went to Austin Canada and was also driven
by Grant. In press ads of the time BMC Canada promoted his victories in 57
FAC, but use photos of the earlier car. Now that was particularly confusing
for the automotive historian. 57 FAC has been in Australia for some years.

I managed to drive 57 FAC in anger at the Phillip Island circuit a few years
back and it was a blast, but I should say that the highlight was being
overtaken under brakes by a Maserati 250F.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Wilko2
Sent: Monday, 30 December 2013 5:54 AM
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961

Here's a page with some good pics as it was sold a couple of years ago:
http://www.rmauctions.com/lots/lot.cfm?lot_id=668582

It's also got a nice spread the "The Healey Book"

Here's info on a 2013 trip to Monterrey with the car looking as it did back
in the day when it still had the hood scoop and the distinctive middle roll
bar:
http://stevemckelvie.wordpress.com/2013/08/03/1960-canadian-drivers-champion
s
hip-winning-austin-healey-to-go-to-monterey/



On Dec 29, 2013, at 10:01 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

> Interestingly that same car was, many years ago, brought into my shop 
> for some tidy up work.
> It was a very interesting car having all aluminium body panels and a 
> bonnet with no scoop. I understand that it was built by Austin of 
> Canada for Grant Clark to race.
> My customer sold the car to a collector in the U.S. and I didn't hear 
> anything more about it until a couple of years back when I was 
> contacted by a well known local collector who wanted me to come and 
> advise him on what he should do with the ex Grant Clark Healey that he 
> had recently purchased from R & M Auctions for whom he worked.
> I went to see the car and was sorry to see that it had been 
> extensively modified with all the latest competition modifications 
> thus loosing most of its historic value.
> Fortunately all the removed parts had been retained and the current 
> owner who, many years previously had watched the same car race very 
> successfully at various venues, was entertaining the idea of restoring 
> the 3000 to its original competition condition.
> Sadly the project never went ahead as he sold the car  and I have now 
> lost track of it again.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 15:19:30 2013
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From: "John Rowe" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
To: "'Simon Lachlan'" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk>, "'healeys
	@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <000601cf0289$51e57100$f5b05300$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
	<COL127-W30EB4AD6A7E3B205846C0EA3CF0@phx.gbl>
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	<000801cf0493$a0e72440$e2b56cc0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 08:14:55 +1000
Thread-Index: Ac8EiWnaWTWGSNsnSSSvmXDSwpjshwAApEMAABXXKJA=
Content-Language: en-au
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon
I think you've just about nailed it. I would tend to lean towards the 152G
if I was silly enough to go again but I would like to know where the
progression holes were first. If I can work out how to I would send you a
diagram but suffice to say the 4th hole is about 1/8" closer to the manifold
than the cluster of the other 3 so that it is just passed by the butterfly
as it opens. 
There is a person in Australia who trades as weberperformance.com.au who
sells genuine Weber parts for very reasonable prices (eg emulsion tubes $20
verses another importer $70-don't ask how I know).He states that he now only
sells the 152G (as well as 9's) because it seems to have overcome all the
problems.
Cheers
John Rowe
Qld Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Sunday, 29 December 2013 10:44 PM
To: 'healeys @autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions

A huge amount of research, questioning and resultant confusion has yielded
me a few certainties. And a lot of confusion which I happily share with you,
below....
Forget chokes....they are interchangeable within carbs of the same size as
are most of the other parts...jets, springs etc.
The only thing that seems to really put the cat among the pigeons is this
business of "progression holes". Weber installations seem to tend towards a
built in flat spot as the accelerator pushes the carb from its choke inlets
to its main flow. How and where and when this dreaded flat spot occurs is
dependent on one's type of engine (twin cam?) or one's camshaft &/or
ignition. People (often apparently with the wrong carbs in the wrong car)
seem to cure the flatspot by opening up one of the settings - I forget which
- and thus overcoming the issue with a flood of petrol. The "progression
holes", which each allow in a small amount of extra fuel, are exposed and
come into effect "progressively" (Geddit now?) as the carbs' butterflies
open. This fuel, allowed in by one, then two, then three etcetc holes, cures
the flatspot. Some peoples' triple Webers seem to yield a perfectly sensible
mpg whilst others' are pretty horrific. It's my guess that a lot of this
results from the having to overcome the flatspot area with buckets of fuel.
So, a 9 will have different holes from a 13. (Bigger, smaller, more or
less...I'm not sure). You can make all the interchangeable variable parts
inside the same, but if one of yr carbs has different holes from yr other
carbs, you're in trouble.
Vehicle manufacturers got together with Weber and chose the right carbs for
their vehicles' specs. Some of the newer 45s appear to have been just plain
wrong in the cars into which they were sold by tuners/the aftermarket. Weber
45 152s when put into Alphas and, I suppose, hot VWs had a massive flatspot
problem. (A twincam issue here). People drilled in "progression holes" until
- surprise - Weber came up with the 45 152G which had the factory's
progression holes drilled per the amateur tuners' drilling efforts etcetc.
The "G" apparently stands for "German"!?!
Enough. I'm still without any Webers but am leaning, no pun intended,
towards 9s.
Happy New Year
Simon
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 16:27:59 2013
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	Mon, 30 Dec 2013 10:26:03 +1100
From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'John Rowe'" <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
References: <1388331542.54339.YahooMailBasic@web162601.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 10:26:00 +1100
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Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

The later photos promoting the win in the 1964 Sundown GP of Endurance
showing the earlier car are really confusing. I managed to contact the
drivers of the time who sorted it out for me.

57 FAC and the other 2 '63 Sebring cars have carried their registration
numbers from when they were built at the Donald Healey Motor Company.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: John Rowe [mailto:john@jtkarowe.com.au] 
Sent: Monday, 30 December 2013 9:12 AM
To: 'Patrick & Caroline Quinn'
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961

Hi Patrick
You must be able to type faster than me. I was halfway through basically the
same reply.(Maybe it was registered in Canada with that number?).
Happy New Year
John Rowe
Qld Aust.

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Monday, 30 December 2013 7:38 AM
To: 'Wilko2'
Cc: 'Austin Healey'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961

G'day

I remember the RM Auctions ad very well as it contained a glaring error.

It mentions that the car was originally registered as 57 FAC which it was
not. This really through me off the scent on a major article I was writing
at the time for US publication Vintage Racecar Magazine.

57 FAC was one of three cars prepared for the 1963 Sebring 12 Hour and is a
right hand drive BJ7. The car in question is a 1959 Mk1 BN7 and is left hand
drive. After Sebring in '63 57 FAC went to Austin Canada and was also driven
by Grant. In press ads of the time BMC Canada promoted his victories in 57
FAC, but use photos of the earlier car. Now that was particularly confusing
for the automotive historian. 57 FAC has been in Australia for some years.

I managed to drive 57 FAC in anger at the Phillip Island circuit a few years
back and it was a blast, but I should say that the highlight was being
overtaken under brakes by a Maserati 250F.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Wilko2
Sent: Monday, 30 December 2013 5:54 AM
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Grant Clark racing Healey 3000 at Mosport in 1961

Here's a page with some good pics as it was sold a couple of years ago:
http://www.rmauctions.com/lots/lot.cfm?lot_id=668582

It's also got a nice spread the "The Healey Book"

Here's info on a 2013 trip to Monterrey with the car looking as it did back
in the day when it still had the hood scoop and the distinctive middle roll
bar:
http://stevemckelvie.wordpress.com/2013/08/03/1960-canadian-drivers-champion
s
hip-winning-austin-healey-to-go-to-monterey/



On Dec 29, 2013, at 10:01 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

> Interestingly that same car was, many years ago, brought into my shop 
> for some tidy up work.
> It was a very interesting car having all aluminium body panels and a 
> bonnet with no scoop. I understand that it was built by Austin of 
> Canada for Grant Clark to race.
> My customer sold the car to a collector in the U.S. and I didn't hear 
> anything more about it until a couple of years back when I was 
> contacted by a well known local collector who wanted me to come and 
> advise him on what he should do with the ex Grant Clark Healey that he 
> had recently purchased from R & M Auctions for whom he worked.
> I went to see the car and was sorry to see that it had been 
> extensively modified with all the latest competition modifications 
> thus loosing most of its historic value.
> Fortunately all the removed parts had been retained and the current 
> owner who, many years previously had watched the same car race very 
> successfully at various venues, was entertaining the idea of restoring 
> the 3000 to its original competition condition.
> Sadly the project never went ahead as he sold the car  and I have now 
> lost track of it again.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 17:24:00 2013
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 16:22:11 -0800 (PST)
From: HealeyRick <healeyrick@yahoo.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>, Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Schumi in a Coma
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I know there are some F1 fans here.  This has me stunned:

Grenoble (France)
(AFP) - Michael Schumacher, the retired seven-time 
Formula One champion, has
undergone brain surgery and is in a "critical"
 condition after striking his
head in a ski accident in the French Alps 
on Sunday, doctors said.

The
44-year-old German was "suffering a serious brain trauma with coma 
on his
arrival, which required an immediate neurosurgical operation", 
the hospital
in the southeastern French city of Grenoble said in a brief
 statement.

"He
remains in a critical condition."

Schumacher had been skiing off-piste with
his 14-year-old son in the 
upmarket Meribel resort, where he reportedly has a
property, when he 
fell and hit his head on a rock.

He was airlifted to a
local hospital, then, an hour later, to the 
better-equipped Grenoble
facility. A surgeon and brain specialist from 
Paris was rushed in to oversee
his treatment.

The director of the Meribel resort, Christophe
Gernigon-Lecomte, had 
said just after the accident that Schumacher had been
wearing a helmet 
and was "conscious but a little agitated", suggesting he had
not 
received life-threatening injuries.

But when Schumacher then fell into
coma, doctors realised the damage was worse than initially feared.

Two
mountain police officers who gave first aid to Schumacher said he 
was
suffering "severe cranial trauma" when they got to him and a 
helicopter was
brought in to evacuate him within 10 minutes.

A renowned Parisian
neurologist, doctor Gerard Saillant, arrived at the 
Grenoble hospital in a
police car to help take charge of the famous 
patient.

Schumacher's wife
Corinna was at his side with his two children, the hospital said.

Police kept
guard at the hospital's entrances as journalists and fans, 
some wearing the
colours of the Formula One legend's former stable 
Ferrari, gathered outside
awaiting news of his health.

The hospital statement was signed by the
facility's neurosurgeon, the 
professor in charge of its anaesthesia/revival
unit, and the hospital's 
deputy director. It was issued jointly with the
ex-racer's press team in
 Germany.

The next update on Schumacher's condition
would be given at 1000 GMT on Monday, a hospital spokesman said.

Schumacher,
who lives with his family in Switzerland, was on a private stay in Meribel,
according to his spokeswoman.

He celebrates his 45th birthday next Friday.
Police have opened an investigation into the circumstances of the accident,
the ski resort said.

A towering figure in Formula One

Schumacher, who won
the last of his world titles in 2004, definitively 
retired in 2012 in the
Brazilian Grand Prix, in which he finished 
seventh, after an abandoned
attempt to quit six years earlier.

Since his debut in 1991, the German
towered over the sport, winning more
 Formula One world titles and races than
any other. He had a record 91 
wins and is one of only two men to reach 300
grands prix.

Schumacher's duels in his heyday with Damon Hill and Jacques
Villeneuve,
 fired by an unquenchable competitive spirit, have gone down in
Formula 
One lore.

Schumacher was born in January 1969 near Cologne, Germany,
the son of a 
bricklayer who also ran the local go-kart track, where his
mother worked
 in the canteen.

By 1987, Schumacher was the German and
European go-kart champion and was
 soon racing professionally. In 1991 he
burst into Formula One by 
qualifying seventh in his debut race in Belgium and
a year later he was 
racing for Benetton, where he won his first Formula One
grand prix in 
1992.

After joining Ferrari in 1996, Schumacher achieved
infamy by trying to 
ram Villeneuve off the road at Jerez in the last race of
1997, and was 
disqualified from the championship as punishment.

Over the
next decade, he went from strength to strength, dominating the podium, before
trying to retire the first time aged 37.

But the father of two could not
resist the lure of the track and in 2010 he signed a three-year deal with
Mercedes.

But slower reflexes and a less competitive car meant Schumacher
could 
not reproduce his former glory and he quit for good in 2012. His helmet
had a message for fans: "Life is about passions -- Thank you for sharing
mine." 
 
Rick


"Madman in a death machine"
Follow My Nasty Boy Build:
http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 22:10:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Bill - right on .... Lemperts wheels are great and you can choose your wood
color/type/finish. 
 
Love mine in African Rosewood. .
 
The up at 12 spoke is
correct and looks best.  Across and down are for Etypes and B's et al.
 
And
stay with correct 16 inch dia with holed spokes while you are at it .... just
looks right [er].
 
Makes the Moto Lita 15s look like cheap mahogany copies.
 Robert N. Blair
Yellow 65BJ8
RNBmail@yahoo.com
________________________________
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
To: 
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2013 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels


The only wheel style that
looks right in a Healey  has the spokes spaced at
120 degrees with one spoke
pointing up. They did that because with the
conventional layout (spokes at
105, 105 and 150 degrees with one spoke down)
blocks the driver's view of the
gauges.

If you are looking for a great wheel for your Healey you can't beat
Mike
Lempert's product.

Bill Lawrence

> From: satkinson1974@gmail.com
>
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2013 21:39:30 -0500
> To: molony@dodo.com.au
> CC:
healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
>
>
I think the mike lempert wheels are just as nice and much better than mota
>
lita. I have a mota and the "spokes" just don't look right when installed
with
> one spoke at 12 o'clock. The two down spokes are at 830 and 330 and just
does
> not look right with the gauges.
>
> Thanks,
> Simon
> Cell 860-324-0248
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 23:17:51 2013
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 22:16:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>, Graeme Molony
  <molony@dodo.com.au>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

And Healey never fitted a dished wheel - that was an aftermarket fad along
with small diameters in the 70s.
 
Lempert will make a wheel as accurate as
you want it to be.

Robert N. Blair
Yellow 65BJ8
RNBmail@yahoo.com
________________________________
From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
To:
Graeme Molony <molony@dodo.com.au> 
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday,
December 22, 2013 2:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering Wheels
Mike Lempert's wheels are no doubt very nice but its the Moto Lita  that are
the accurate  design and representative of the ones used back in the day. Moto
Lita make many different styles and if people have one that does not have the
three equally spaced spokes then they have bought the wrong model.

Derek
On
22 Dec 2013, at 02:16, "Graeme  Molony" <molony@dodo.com.au> wrote:

> Oops
should have let my fingers do the walking
>
> Just checked the internet and
confirmed these wheels are available from
Mota
> Lita in the UK for approx
$350.00 excluding VAT plus P&H
>
> A far cry from the $ 2050.00 ask on Ebay
>
> Cheers
> Graeme M
> Mt Martha Vic
> BJ8 32717
>
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Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Sun Dec 29 23:34:43 2013
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Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 22:32:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Robert Blair <rnbmail@yahoo.com>
To: Don Tate <bn2cars@gmail.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires for BJ 8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Happy with the Vreds, but no rain out here in CA this year ....
 
But either
way go with 185x15 - not 165x15 for BJ8.
 
Correct rolling radius, looks
better in wheel arch and fit fine.

Robert N. Blair
Yellow 65BJ8
RNBmail@yahoo.com 





________________________________
From: Don Tate
<bn2cars@gmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 9:49 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ 8


As
long as we're on our favorite subject, I'm considering  replacing my tires
with either Nexen's 165's or Vredenstein Sprint Classics in the same size.
Cost delta is about $200 but if performance is noticeably better, it would be
worth the extra money IMO.

Anyone tried the Nexen's?  Vredenstein's? Would
appreciate your input.

TIA,
Don Tate
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 00:29:25 2013
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From: Dave Murphy <roadwarriordave@hotmail.com>
To: Don Tate <bn2cars@gmail.com>, "healeys @autox.team.net"
	<healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 02:27:26 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires for BJ 8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Don,
I really like my Vred 185R15 Sprint Classics in my '66 BJ8. They are the tall
80 series aspect ratio and visually fill up the wheel wells better than the
old 165R15 (80 series) and I get a tad more ground clearance and I think they
ride better and grip better too.

These taller aspect ratio 185s have no problem fitting on my standard skinny
(4-1/2" ?) rims wheras the shorter stiffer sidewalls of the 185/70 R15s would
need a wider (5-1/2"?) rim and they of course wouldn't visually fill up the
wheel wells the way I like.

The steering is noticeably heavier with my 185R15s than it was with the old
165R15s, but it is still very acceptable. I expect steering effort with the
185/70R15 would be heavier still (-perhaps too heavy for my taste) because,
due to the shorter sidewall, the tread is wider than it is on my 185R15
tires.

One drawback to the larger 185R15 (80 series) tires is storage in the boot. I
had to modify & raise the stowage bracket/ wooden block in front of the spare
tire so the spare tire would sit far enough forward for the boot lid to close.
-Dave Murphy
'66 BJ8, Dearborn Michigan

> From: bn2cars@gmail.com
> Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2013 12:49:17 -0500
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Tires for BJ 8
>
> As long as we're on our favorite subject, I'm considering  replacing my
tires
> with either Nexen's 165's or Vredenstein Sprint Classics in the same size.
> Cost delta is about $200 but if performance is noticeably better, it would
be
> worth the extra money IMO.
>
> Anyone tried the Nexen's?  Vredenstein's? Would appreciate your input.
>
> TIA,
> Don Tate
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 02:36:14 2013
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From: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 09:34:16 +0000
References: <000601cf0289$51e57100$f5b05300$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk>
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To: John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au>
Cc: "'healeys
  @autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Simon

Just to clarify. The chokes are not interchangeable, they are fixed for each
model. It is the ventures inside the chokes that can be changed to suit your
application.

Derek
On 29 Dec 2013, at 22:14, John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au> wrote:

> Simon
> I think you've just about nailed it. I would tend to lean towards the 152G
> if I was silly enough to go again but I would like to know where the
> progression holes were first. If I can work out how to I would send you a
> diagram but suffice to say the 4th hole is about 1/8" closer to the
manifold
> than the cluster of the other 3 so that it is just passed by the butterfly
> as it opens.
> There is a person in Australia who trades as weberperformance.com.au who
> sells genuine Weber parts for very reasonable prices (eg emulsion tubes $20
> verses another importer $70-don't ask how I know).He states that he now
only
> sells the 152G (as well as 9's) because it seems to have overcome all the
> problems.
> Cheers
> John Rowe
> Qld Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
> Sent: Sunday, 29 December 2013 10:44 PM
> To: 'healeys @autox.team.net'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
>
> A huge amount of research, questioning and resultant confusion has yielded
> me a few certainties. And a lot of confusion which I happily share with
you,
> below....
> Forget chokes....they are interchangeable within carbs of the same size as
> are most of the other parts...jets, springs etc.
> The only thing that seems to really put the cat among the pigeons is this
> business of "progression holes". Weber installations seem to tend towards a
> built in flat spot as the accelerator pushes the carb from its choke inlets
> to its main flow. How and where and when this dreaded flat spot occurs is
> dependent on one's type of engine (twin cam?) or one's camshaft &/or
> ignition. People (often apparently with the wrong carbs in the wrong car)
> seem to cure the flatspot by opening up one of the settings - I forget
which
> - and thus overcoming the issue with a flood of petrol. The "progression
> holes", which each allow in a small amount of extra fuel, are exposed and
> come into effect "progressively" (Geddit now?) as the carbs' butterflies
> open. This fuel, allowed in by one, then two, then three etcetc holes,
cures
> the flatspot. Some peoples' triple Webers seem to yield a perfectly
sensible
> mpg whilst others' are pretty horrific. It's my guess that a lot of this
> results from the having to overcome the flatspot area with buckets of fuel.
> So, a 9 will have different holes from a 13. (Bigger, smaller, more or
> less...I'm not sure). You can make all the interchangeable variable parts
> inside the same, but if one of yr carbs has different holes from yr other
> carbs, you're in trouble.
> Vehicle manufacturers got together with Weber and chose the right carbs for
> their vehicles' specs. Some of the newer 45s appear to have been just plain
> wrong in the cars into which they were sold by tuners/the aftermarket.
Weber
> 45 152s when put into Alphas and, I suppose, hot VWs had a massive flatspot
> problem. (A twincam issue here). People drilled in "progression holes"
until
> - surprise - Weber came up with the 45 152G which had the factory's
> progression holes drilled per the amateur tuners' drilling efforts etcetc.
> The "G" apparently stands for "German"!?!
> Enough. I'm still without any Webers but am leaning, no pun intended,
> towards 9s.
> Happy New Year
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 03:09:29 2013
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From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 21:07:35 +1100
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Derek,
Maybe it's a naming convention issue, but 45DCOE can have 28mm to 40mm
"chokes" or "main Venturi" See here
http://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=6_13&products_id=19
&osCsid=2pvi844ntjkpthi41u1puarho7
Best
Chris
Sent from my iPhone

> On 30 Dec 2013, at 8:34 pm, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Simon
>
> Just to clarify. The chokes are not interchangeable, they are fixed for
each
> model. It is the ventures inside the chokes that can be changed to suit
your
> application.
>
> Derek
>> On 29 Dec 2013, at 22:14, John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au> wrote:
>>
>> Simon
>> I think you've just about nailed it. I would tend to lean towards the 152G
>> if I was silly enough to go again but I would like to know where the
>> progression holes were first. If I can work out how to I would send you a
>> diagram but suffice to say the 4th hole is about 1/8" closer to the
> manifold
>> than the cluster of the other 3 so that it is just passed by the butterfly
>> as it opens.
>> There is a person in Australia who trades as weberperformance.com.au who
>> sells genuine Weber parts for very reasonable prices (eg emulsion tubes
$20
>> verses another importer $70-don't ask how I know).He states that he now
> only
>> sells the 152G (as well as 9's) because it seems to have overcome all the
>> problems.
>> Cheers
>> John Rowe
>> Qld Australia
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
>> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
>> Sent: Sunday, 29 December 2013 10:44 PM
>> To: 'healeys @autox.team.net'
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
>>
>> A huge amount of research, questioning and resultant confusion has yielded
>> me a few certainties. And a lot of confusion which I happily share with
> you,
>> below....
>> Forget chokes....they are interchangeable within carbs of the same size as
>> are most of the other parts...jets, springs etc.
>> The only thing that seems to really put the cat among the pigeons is this
>> business of "progression holes". Weber installations seem to tend towards
a
>> built in flat spot as the accelerator pushes the carb from its choke
inlets
>> to its main flow. How and where and when this dreaded flat spot occurs is
>> dependent on one's type of engine (twin cam?) or one's camshaft &/or
>> ignition. People (often apparently with the wrong carbs in the wrong car)
>> seem to cure the flatspot by opening up one of the settings - I forget
> which
>> - and thus overcoming the issue with a flood of petrol. The "progression
>> holes", which each allow in a small amount of extra fuel, are exposed and
>> come into effect "progressively" (Geddit now?) as the carbs' butterflies
>> open. This fuel, allowed in by one, then two, then three etcetc holes,
> cures
>> the flatspot. Some peoples' triple Webers seem to yield a perfectly
> sensible
>> mpg whilst others' are pretty horrific. It's my guess that a lot of this
>> results from the having to overcome the flatspot area with buckets of
fuel.
>> So, a 9 will have different holes from a 13. (Bigger, smaller, more or
>> less...I'm not sure). You can make all the interchangeable variable parts
>> inside the same, but if one of yr carbs has different holes from yr other
>> carbs, you're in trouble.
>> Vehicle manufacturers got together with Weber and chose the right carbs
for
>> their vehicles' spec
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 09:51:59 2013
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From: "John Carter" <jc9821@msn.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 08:47:11 -0800
	FILETIME=[D1E27090:01CF057E]
Subject: [Healeys] Webers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I have had triple SK carbs on my BJ8 II for over 16 years. They are Japanese
copies of Webers and use Weber tuning parts. The best advise I can give you is
to go to a shop like
Loyningbs in Portland,OR and have the car tuned on a chassis dyno by someone
who knows what they are doing. My car has never run better since I did just
that. I never touch
the carbs and it runs great at both low and high rpmbs. I get about 16mpg on
the highway and 13 in town on premium gas.
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 09:56:08 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 17:51:42 +0100
From: Per Schoerner <per@schoerner.se>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:10.0.1)
	Gecko/20120208 Thunderbird/10.0.1
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
References: <COL127-W25B223FAF1EF30D4326679A4C30@phx.gbl>,
	<52BA27CE.8050605@schoerner.se>
	<COL127-W3026B1635C1A9116B37F2AA4C30@phx.gbl>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering wheel
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Rich
As nobody has corrected me I assume I'm correct in my assumption. It 
seems you have a Derrington style wheel made by MotoLita.
Mike Lempert has the story behind these steering wheels on his web site, 
please see > http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/victor <
It appears that in addition to the spokes the wood needs to be laminated 
on a Derrington style steering wheel.

Per


Richard Kahn skrev 2013-12-25 01:37:
> Got slots and three spokes in the original Healey position.
>
>  > Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2013 01:33:18 +0100
>  > From: per@schoerner.se
>  > To: healeys@autox.team.net
>  > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Derrington Steering wheel
>  >
>  > Hi
>  > If I'm not mistaken the right expression should be a Derrington style
>  > steering wheel, regardless of who made it. And the ting that makes it a
>  > Derrington style wheel is the three evenly spread slotted spokes.
>  > Hence a steering wheel with holes in the spokes, ala 100S, is not a
>  > Derrington style wheel.
>  >
>  > Correct me if I'm wrong.
>  >
>  > Per
>  >
>  > Richard Kahn skrev 2013-12-25 01:18:
>  > > Now I am VERY curious. My steering wheel says Mota Lita on the back
> side. Does
>  > > this indicate I might have a Derrington Wheel? I bought it used
> many years
>  > > ago. How can I verify it?
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 10:06:57 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 09:04:14 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys @autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Pedantic much?  If you are going to be pedantic at least get the name
right.  They are venturis not ventures.  They are commonly called chokes.



On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 1:34 AM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:

> Simon
>
> Just to clarify. The chokes are not interchangeable, they are fixed for
> each
> model. It is the ventures inside the chokes that can be changed to suit
> your
> application.
>
> Derek
> On 29 Dec 2013, at 22:14, John Rowe <john@jtkarowe.com.au> wrote:
>
> > Simon
> > I think you've just about nailed it. I would tend to lean towards the
> 152G
> > if I was silly enough to go again but I would like to know where the
> > progression holes were first. If I can work out how to I would send you a
> > diagram but suffice to say the 4th hole is about 1/8" closer to the
> manifold
> > than the cluster of the other 3 so that it is just passed by the
> butterfly
> > as it opens.
> > There is a person in Australia who trades as weberperformance.com.au who
> > sells genuine Weber parts for very reasonable prices (eg emulsion tubes
> $20
> > verses another importer $70-don't ask how I know).He states that he now
> only
> > sells the 152G (as well as 9's) because it seems to have overcome all the
> > problems.
> > Cheers
> > John Rowe
> > Qld Australia
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
> > Sent: Sunday, 29 December 2013 10:44 PM
> > To: 'healeys @autox.team.net'
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 2 weber 45 questions
> >
> > A huge amount of research, questioning and resultant confusion has
> yielded
> > me a few certainties. And a lot of confusion which I happily share with
> you,
> > below....
> > Forget chokes....they are interchangeable within carbs of the same size
> as
> > are most of the other parts...jets, springs etc.
> > The only thing that seems to really put the cat among the pigeons is this
> > business of "progression holes". Weber installations seem to tend
> towards a
> > built in flat spot as the accelerator pushes the carb from its choke
> inlets
> > to its main flow. How and where and when this dreaded flat spot occurs is
> > dependent on one's type of engine (twin cam?) or one's camshaft &/or
> > ignition. People (often apparently with the wrong carbs in the wrong car)
> > seem to cure the flatspot by opening up one of the settings - I forget
> which
> > - and thus overcoming the issue with a flood of petrol. The "progression
> > holes", which each allow in a small amount of extra fuel, are exposed and
> > come into effect "progressively" (Geddit now?) as the carbs' butterflies
> > open. This fuel, allowed in by one, then two, then three etcetc holes,
> cures
> > the flatspot. Some peoples' triple Webers seem to yield a perfectly
> sensible
> > mpg whilst others' are pretty horrific. It's my guess that a lot of this
> > results from the having to overcome the flatspot area with buckets of
> fuel.
> > So, a 9 will have different holes from a 13. (Bigger, smaller, more or
> > less...I'm not sure). You can make all the interchangeable variable parts
> > inside the same, but if one of yr carbs has different holes from yr other
> > carbs, you're in trouble.
> > Vehicle manufacturers got together with Weber and chose the right carbs
> for
> > their vehicles' specs. Some of the newer 45s appear to have been just
> plain
> > wrong in the cars into which they were sold by tuners/the aftermarket.
> Weber
> > 45 152s when put into Alphas and, I suppose, hot VWs had a massive
> flatspot
> > problem. (A twincam issue here). People drilled in "progression holes"
> until
> > - surprise - Weber came up with the 45 152G which had the factory's
> > progression holes drilled per the amateur tuners' drilling efforts
> etcetc.
> > The "G" apparently stands for "German"!?!
> > Enough. I'm still without any Webers but am leaning, no pun intended,
> > towards 9s.
> > Happy New Year
> > Simon
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 14:50:16 2013
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From: "Carr&Edwards" <scvc70@epix.net>
To: "Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 16:29:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tech question -- but IT, not Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Does anyone on the List have experience with Dragon, or any other
speech-recognition software?  A friend is thinking about writing memoirs, and
he's a painfully slow typist.  I can easily edit something already typed.  The
alternative is a tape recorder and spending many hours of my time transcribing
tapes--something I'd rather not do.

Reply on- or off-list.

Thanks!
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 16:51:57 2013
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Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 18:50:01 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: John Carter <jc9821@msn.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi John,
Isn't 16MPG a little bit high?
I seem to recall something more like 20 - 22 MPG (US) being what most of
the road tests got for BJ8s with SUs and I remember getting a consistent 24
- 26 MPG (Imp Highway) from my BJ8 when I had one.
A reduction in fuel mileage of that magnitude seems like a high price to
pay for the looks and small performance improvement that Webers provide.
If they are tuned correctly I would think that they should provide similar
gas mileage to SUs, after all it is just a function of the amount of energy
one can extract from burning fuel at the correct mixture.
Do you have any numbers for your car before the Webers were installed?
Just curious......

Michael S
BN1 #174





On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 11:47 AM, John Carter <jc9821@msn.com> wrote:

> I have had triple SK carbs on my BJ8 II for over 16 years. They are
> Japanese
> copies of Webers and use Weber tuning parts. The best advise I can give
> you is
> to go to a shop like
> Loyningb s in Portland,OR and have the car tuned on a chassis dyno by
> someone
> who knows what they are doing. My car has never run better since I did just
> that. I never touch
> the carbs and it runs great at both low and high rpmb s. I get about 16mpg
> on
> the highway and 13 in town on premium gas.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
All wisdom is plagiarism; only stupidity is original.
_______________________________________________
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 17:03:29 2013
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From: John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au>
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To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
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Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 advice
	requested
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi All

We are in the planning stages for a trip in 2014 to USA and would 
welcome any advice we can get.

We are in Perth Western Australia and will be heading to San Francisco 
via New Zealand.

We would like to drive from San Francisco to Vancouver via highway 101, 
in parts, to see as much as we can.


We have briefly been to Seattle previously and enjoyed it immensely.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

cheers from West Oz

John

1959 BT7
1963 BJ7 (SWMBO)
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Mon Dec 30 17:52:19 2013
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	<7zqR1n01L0NyJgq01zqTGB>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net Healey" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Webers
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I, too, am curious to see some other numbers for fuel efficiency for Weber vs
SU. Even 2 vs 3 SUs.

There are other factors besides just the amount of fuel mixture needed for x
amount of power such as the fact that, fuel is dribbling from jets and
progression holes whether or not a cylinder is firing. That is the reason that
EFI can be so much more efficientfuel is only squirted for the firing time.

Wilko

On Dec 30, 2013, at 3:50 PM, Michael Salter wrote:

> Hi John,
> Isn't 16MPG a little bit high?
> I seem to recall something more like 20 - 22 MPG (US) being what most of
> the road tests got for BJ8s with SUs and I remember getting a consistent 24
> - 26 MPG (Imp Highway) from my BJ8 when I had one.
> A reduction in fuel mileage of that magnitude seems like a high price to
> pay for the looks and small performance improvement that Webers provide.
> If they are tuned correctly I would think that they should provide similar
> gas mileage to SUs, after all it is just a function of the amount of energy
> one can extract from burning fuel at the correct mixture.
> Do you have any numbers for your car before the Webers were installed?
> Just curious......
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 06:14:51 2013
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From: Al Malin <amalin@mac.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 08:11:37 -0500
References: <59D337EB69264FFB84CF0D7CD94D60FA@valuedea617bbe>
To: Carr&Edwards <scvc70@epix.net>
Cc: Healey list <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tech question -- but IT, not Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

My wife has used it for years and it works well for her.

> On Dec 30, 2013, at 4:29 PM, Carr&Edwards <scvc70@epix.net> wrote:
>
> Does anyone on the List have experience with Dragon, or any other
> speech-recognition software?  A friend is thinking about writing memoirs,
and
> he's a painfully slow typist.  I can easily edit something already typed.
The
> alternative is a tape recorder and spending many hours of my time
transcribing
> tapes--something I'd rather not do.
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 06:52:02 -0800
References: <52C169BE.7040406@westnet.com.au> <52C20AFD.8060107@westnet.com.au>
To: John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 advice
 requested
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

It would add time to the trip, but if you flew to LAX and drove highway 1
north you would get to drive one of the world's great roads through Big Sur.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 30, 2013, at 16:08, John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au> wrote:
>
> Hi All
>
> We are in the planning stages for a trip in 2014 to USA and would
> welcome any advice we can get.
>
> We are in Perth Western Australia and will be heading to San Francisco
> via New Zealand.
>
> We would like to drive from San Francisco to Vancouver via highway 101,
> in parts, to see as much as we can.
>
>
> We have briefly been to Seattle previously and enjoyed it immensely.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> cheers from West Oz
>
> John
>
> 1959 BT7
> 1963 BJ7 (SWMBO)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 16:06:11 +0100
From: Bob <jagxk120@gmail.com>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Macintosh; Intel Mac OS X 10.9; rv:24.0)
	Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.1.0
To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <59D337EB69264FFB84CF0D7CD94D60FA@valuedea617bbe>
	<A1F187B2-365F-437E-8C93-A9F28AFD45EE@mac.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tech question -- but IT, not Healey
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

The built in speech recognition system in the Macs is very effective.
And it needs no learning of the machine.
Used Dragon previously, and this one is at least as effective.
B

Le 31/12/2013 14:11, Al Malin a icrit :
> My wife has used it for years and it works well for her.
>
>> On Dec 30, 2013, at 4:29 PM, Carr&Edwards <scvc70@epix.net> wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone on the List have experience with Dragon, or any other
>> speech-recognition software?  A friend is thinking about writing memoirs,
> and
>> he's a painfully slow typist.  I can easily edit something already typed.
> The
>> alternative is a tape recorder and spending many hours of my time
> transcribing
>> tapes--something I'd rather not do.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 09:06:49 2013
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From: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Full-name: ATIGHTPROD
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 11:04:31 -0500 (EST)
To: jarowe@westnet.com.au, healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 advice
 requested
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I would agree with Richard here, the section of Highway 1 he's talking  
about is spectacular! And you can stay right on the coast all they way to San  
Francisco and then pick up the 101 and continue. It would definitely add a 
full  day and the scenery between San Francisco and Vancouver is going to be  
beautiful, but the photo opportunities afforded along the coast from Morro 
Bay  north are amazing. And you get to go through Carmel and Monterey. Your 
call, and  whatever you decide, you're in for a treat! There's lots to see.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598
 
It would add time to the trip, but if you flew to LAX and  drove highway 1
north you would get to drive one of the world's great roads  through Big 
Sur.
 
 
Hi All

We are in the planning stages for a trip in 2014 to USA  and would 
welcome any advice we can get.

We are in Perth Western  Australia and will be heading to San Francisco 
via New Zealand.

We  would like to drive from San Francisco to Vancouver via highway 101, 
in  parts, to see as much as we can.


We have briefly been to Seattle  previously and enjoyed it immensely.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be  appreciated.

cheers from West Oz

John

1959 BT7
1963 BJ7  (SWMBO)
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References: <7060.49cb8a83.3ff4450f@aol.com>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 08:29:30 -0800
To: "ATIGHTPROD@aol.com" <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 advice
 requested
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Absolutely the drive up Hwy 1 to San Francisco is spectacular. When in the San
Francisco area our shop is only about an hour or so inland. If u want stop in
for a shop tour.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 31, 2013, at 8:04 AM, ATIGHTPROD@aol.com wrote:
>
> I would agree with Richard here, the section of Highway 1 he's talking
> about is spectacular! And you can stay right on the coast all they way to
San
> Francisco and then pick up the 101 and continue. It would definitely add a
> full  day and the scenery between San Francisco and Vancouver is going to be
> beautiful, but the photo opportunities afforded along the coast from Morro
> Bay  north are amazing. And you get to go through Carmel and Monterey. Your
> call, and  whatever you decide, you're in for a treat! There's lots to see.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
>
> It would add time to the trip, but if you flew to LAX and  drove highway 1
> north you would get to drive one of the world's great roads  through Big
> Sur.
>
>
> Hi All
>
> We are in the planning stages for a trip in 2014 to USA  and would
> welcome any advice we can get.
>
> We are in Perth Western  Australia and will be heading to San Francisco
> via New Zealand.
>
> We  would like to drive from San Francisco to Vancouver via highway 101,
> in  parts, to see as much as we can.
>
>
> We have briefly been to Seattle  previously and enjoyed it immensely.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions would be  appreciated.
>
> cheers from West Oz
>
> John
>
> 1959 BT7
> 1963 BJ7  (SWMBO)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 09:39:40 2013
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	Tue, 31 Dec 2013 10:37:38 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'David Nock British Car Specialists'" <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>,
	<ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>
References: <7060.49cb8a83.3ff4450f@aol.com>
	<F3F9BDA2-98B8-4253-B30A-DE60D309C2DE@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 11:37:37 -0500
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Content-language: en-us
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 advice
 requested
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

One of the many things I miss about being a SF transplant to the NY metro
area is driving PCH (Hwy 1). The Pacific Coast Highway is just that. You
are, for the most part, driving on cliffs a few feet from the Pacific Ocean.
Windy road and FUN. A detour to British Car Specialists and the Nocks is
well worth it. Fantastic place. Also, if you get a chance, a detour or
overnight stay at the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo is worth it. See:
http://www.madonnainn.com/ Every room has a different theme - including one
that is Antique Auto themed.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock British Car Specialists
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 11:30 AM
To: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 advice
requested

Absolutely the drive up Hwy 1 to San Francisco is spectacular. When in the
San Francisco area our shop is only about an hour or so inland. If u want
stop in for a shop tour.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 31, 2013, at 8:04 AM, ATIGHTPROD@aol.com wrote:
>
> I would agree with Richard here, the section of Highway 1 he's talking 
> about is spectacular! And you can stay right on the coast all they way 
> to
San
> Francisco and then pick up the 101 and continue. It would definitely 
> add a full  day and the scenery between San Francisco and Vancouver is 
> going to be beautiful, but the photo opportunities afforded along the 
> coast from Morro Bay  north are amazing. And you get to go through 
> Carmel and Monterey. Your call, and  whatever you decide, you're in for a
treat! There's lots to see.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
>
> It would add time to the trip, but if you flew to LAX and  drove 
> highway 1 north you would get to drive one of the world's great roads  
> through Big Sur.
>
>
> Hi All
>
> We are in the planning stages for a trip in 2014 to USA  and would 
> welcome any advice we can get.
>
> We are in Perth Western  Australia and will be heading to San 
> Francisco via New Zealand.
>
> We  would like to drive from San Francisco to Vancouver via highway 
> 101, in  parts, to see as much as we can.
>
>
> We have briefly been to Seattle  previously and enjoyed it immensely.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions would be  appreciated.
>
> cheers from West Oz
>
> John
>
> 1959 BT7
> 1963 BJ7  (SWMBO)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
$12.75
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 09:45:02 2013
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 08:42:58 -0800
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101
	Thunderbird/24.2.0
To: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>,  John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au>
References: <52C169BE.7040406@westnet.com.au> <52C20AFD.8060107@westnet.com.au>
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Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 advice
 requested
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Or, take Hwy 1 north of San Francisco all the way to Vancouver, WA (I believe it junctions with 101 at some points).  If 
you're going to Vancouver, CA take the ferry out of Port Angeles, WA.

Bob



On 12/31/2013 6:52 AM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> It would add time to the trip, but if you flew to LAX and drove highway 1
> north you would get to drive one of the world's great roads through Big Sur.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 30, 2013, at 16:08, John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au> wrote:
>>
>> Hi All
>>
>> We are in the planning stages for a trip in 2014 to USA and would
>> welcome any advice we can get.
>>
>> We are in Perth Western Australia and will be heading to San Francisco
>> via New Zealand.
>>
>> We would like to drive from San Francisco to Vancouver via highway 101,
>> in parts, to see as much as we can.
>>
>>
>> We have briefly been to Seattle previously and enjoyed it immensely.
>>
>> Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
>>
>> cheers from West Oz
>>
>> John
>>
>> 1959 BT7
>> 1963 BJ7 (SWMBO)
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>


-- 
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell@comcast.net

*******************************************************************
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 09:55:14 2013
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From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: <ATIGHTPROD@aol.com>
References: <7060.49cb8a83.3ff4450f@aol.com>
	<F3F9BDA2-98B8-4253-B30A-DE60D309C2DE@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 11:53:22 -0500
Thread-index: AQGhrOgEDYtgtlCEZFGaLNPAMAr9bgD5pdXYmsFqVtA=
Content-language: en-us
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 advice
 requested
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Sorry, meant to say that PCH is a WINDING road as in lots of turns instead
of windy. Darn auto correct.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Nock British Car Specialists
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 11:30 AM
To: ATIGHTPROD@aol.com
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 advice
requested

Absolutely the drive up Hwy 1 to San Francisco is spectacular. When in the
San Francisco area our shop is only about an hour or so inland. If u want
stop in for a shop tour.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 31, 2013, at 8:04 AM, ATIGHTPROD@aol.com wrote:
>
> I would agree with Richard here, the section of Highway 1 he's talking 
> about is spectacular! And you can stay right on the coast all they way 
> to
San
> Francisco and then pick up the 101 and continue. It would definitely 
> add a full  day and the scenery between San Francisco and Vancouver is 
> going to be beautiful, but the photo opportunities afforded along the 
> coast from Morro Bay  north are amazing. And you get to go through 
> Carmel and Monterey. Your call, and  whatever you decide, you're in for a
treat! There's lots to see.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1 #598
>
> It would add time to the trip, but if you flew to LAX and  drove 
> highway 1 north you would get to drive one of the world's great roads  
> through Big Sur.
>
>
> Hi All
>
> We are in the planning stages for a trip in 2014 to USA  and would 
> welcome any advice we can get.
>
> We are in Perth Western  Australia and will be heading to San 
> Francisco via New Zealand.
>
> We  would like to drive from San Francisco to Vancouver via highway 
> 101, in  parts, to see as much as we can.
>
>
> We have briefly been to Seattle  previously and enjoyed it immensely.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions would be  appreciated.
>
> cheers from West Oz
>
> John
>
> 1959 BT7
> 1963 BJ7  (SWMBO)
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
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>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 10:25:42 2013
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 17:23:50 +0000 (UTC)
From: Kent McLean <kentmclean@comcast.net>
To: healeys@autox.team.net
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 advice
 requested
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John Rowe wrote:
> We would like to drive from San Francisco to Vancouver via highway 101, 

North of San Francisco, hug the coast as much as you can. Take CA-1 instead 
of US-101; they meet again further north after CA-1 leaves the coasts and hits
Leggett.

Do take in the Avenue of the Giants -- a 31 mile drive through the giant red 
woods -- just north of Garberville CA.  Take time to park the car and walk 
among the trees at one of the many parking stops -- you will be awed.

I live on the east coast of the US (New Hampshire). I did this trip a year ago 
on a rented motorcycle (Dubbelju out of San Francisco, if you are interested). 
We stayed at the Eureka Inn, an old-time huge mansion of an inn; quaint, if 
you are tired of hotel chains. It was the vacation of a lifetime. I have plans
to do it again.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avenue_of_the_Giants
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California_State_Route_1
http://www.eurekainn.com/Pages/default.aspx

--
Kent McLean
'56 100 BN-2
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 11:48:34 2013
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References: <52C169BE.7040406@westnet.com.au> <52C20AFD.8060107@westnet.com.au>
	<606C2BAF-0981-41C7-9AAE-7842323A08F6@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 10:45:58 -0800
From: Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>
To: John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au>
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 advice
 requested
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

To amplify on my previous post (and a few other since) Not all the rooms at
the Madonna Inn are theme rooms, many are not, if you want a theme room,
you will need to reserve ahead.
If coming in our summer and you do not want to not follow motorhomes at 10
MPH through Big Sur and along highway 1, I suggest getting a room in San
Louis Obispo or near by and get on the road North EARLY you will be in
Carmel before
 the motorhomes leave their parking place.
Going North from San Francisco you have two choices, coast or inland.
Inland you get Napa Valley and wine. Coast you get the ocean.  Near the
Northern part of the state, highway 1 joins 101 and continues north.
All in all this is a great vacation.
Rick



On Tue, Dec 31, 2013 at 6:52 AM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald@gmail.com>wrote:

> It would add time to the trip, but if you flew to LAX and drove highway 1
> north you would get to drive one of the world's great roads through Big Sur.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Dec 30, 2013, at 16:08, John Rowe <jarowe@westnet.com.au> wrote:
> >
> > Hi All
> >
> > We are in the planning stages for a trip in 2014 to USA and would
> > welcome any advice we can get.
> >
> > We are in Perth Western Australia and will be heading to San Francisco
> > via New Zealand.
> >
> > We would like to drive from San Francisco to Vancouver via highway 101,
> > in parts, to see as much as we can.
> >
> >
> > We have briefly been to Seattle previously and enjoyed it immensely.
> >
> > Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> > cheers from West Oz
> >
> > John
> >
> > 1959 BT7
> > 1963 BJ7 (SWMBO)
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys@autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 12:13:01 2013
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From: TERRY COLL <coll44@msn.com>
To: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 14:10:36 -0500
References: <SNT151-DS13A3767582315E3989B5CDCECE0@phx.gbl>,
	<7zqR1n01L0NyJgq01zqTGB>,
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	FILETIME=[FCEFD380:01CF065B]
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 grill surround removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I'm looking for some advice regards removing the grill surround (to get it
re-chromed) on my MK III Ph II BJ8.  Does the grill have to come out too?  Is
it  best done from the wheel well (sans wheels)?  Any/all help appreciated.

Terry Coll  '64 BJ8

Happy New Year to all!
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 13:35:33 2013
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From: "Carr&Edwards" <scvc70@epix.net>
Cc: "'Healey List Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <7AYw1n00A0NyJgq01AYx2r><1D09FF1E-C5F4-49B6-BE86-D18F11D817C8@cox.net>
	<002401cf0423$b0537660$10fa6320$@net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 15:25:58 -0500
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

That is the way the auxiliary lights on our MGB/GT are designed to work. 
The pair of lights is controlled by a single rocker switch.  When the switch 
is in the "on" position, the fog light is on if the low beams are on; if you 
turn on the high beams, the fog light goes out and the driving light comes 
on.  (At least that's what the owner's handbook says--we don't have the 
extra lights installed.  Wonder what British engineer thought up this 
arrangement ???)  And, of course, the way you actually use them depends on 
your state law....

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Trifari" <jtrifari@comcast.net>
To: "'Wilko2'" <e-wilkins@cox.net>; "'Price Lindsay'" <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Cc: "'Healey List Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring


>I think common sense would dictate that if the lights are foggers they
> should come on with the low means. If they are driving lights they should
> come on with the high beams--otherwise why bother installing these lights 
> at
> all.  Run the lights through the dip switch > relay >lamps.  Run the relay
> ground through a dash switch.  John Trifari  Golden Gate AHC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net 
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Wilko2
> Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 2:43 PM
> To: Price Lindsay
> Cc: Healey List Healey List
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
>
> Depending on where you are, there will laws that dictate how they must be
> wired. Here in CA if they are spots they can only come on with the low
> beams, etc.
>
>
>
> On Dec 28, 2013, at 2:32 PM, Price Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Thank you for those who responded to my query.
>>
>> Fascinating the different approaches to this installation I received.
>> Some run both lights together, some run each individually, some run
>> the lights
> with
>> high beams, some run the lights with low beams and some run the lights
>> independently of the head lights.
>>
>> A lot of information to contemplate. Again thank you.
>>
>> Price Lindsay
>> 67 BJ8
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From: Doug Escriva <dougescriva@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 12:41:54 -0800
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] SF to Vancouver
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net


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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 14:01:05 2013
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 628
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

 If you can budget about four days, a trip from San Francisco up the coast can
be great fun. All you need to do in planning the route is stay as close to the
edge of the Pacific Ocean as possible. That means you'll be on Highway 1 most
of the time, but you'll divert in to 101 north of Fort Bragg, CA and then pick
up the coast again in Eureka/Crescent City. You can stay on Highway 1 all the
way to Port Washington as suggested, and then either take ferries to Victoria
and over to Vancouver, or directly to Vancouver. That will avoid the whole
Portland and Seattle transits -- but you've already seen them, so save the
time for Victoria and Vancouver.

G.



Gary Anderson
Editor at Large, Austin-Healey Magazine
Los Altos, California
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 14:33:49 2013
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From: Randy Hicks <Healey100M@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 14:28:54 -0700
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 5, Issue 628
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Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We did this trip in 2008. I agree with Gary. Victoria/Vancouver Island &
Vancouver are great since youve already been to Portland & Seattle. Bouchard
(sp?) Gardens on Vancouver Island are wonderful. Would also suggest leaving
from LA and doing Bur Sur.

We continued from Vancouver to Whistler and Banff/Jasper Nat. Parks and then
dropped down to Glacier/Yellowstone & Jackson. Then back to the east coast.
Want to do it in reverse sometime. Wonderful route. 6122 miles in 30 days and
would do it again in a minute.

Randy

On Dec 31, 2013, at 1:58 PM, editorgary@aol.com wrote:

> If you can budget about four days, a trip from San Francisco up the coast
can
> be great fun. All you need to do in planning the route is stay as close to
the
> edge of the Pacific Ocean as possible. That means you'll be on Highway 1
most
> of the time, but you'll divert in to 101 north of Fort Bragg, CA and then
pick
> up the coast again in Eureka/Crescent City. You can stay on Highway 1 all
the
> way to Port Washington as suggested, and then either take ferries to
Victoria
> and over to Vancouver, or directly to Vancouver. That will avoid the whole
> Portland and Seattle transits -- but you've already seen them, so save the
> time for Victoria and Vancouver.
>
> G.
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor at Large, Austin-Healey Magazine
> Los Altos, California
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 14:44:05 2013
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 16:41:36 -0500
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>
To: TERRY COLL <coll44@msn.com>
Cc: austin healey <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 grill surround removal
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Terry,

I had my grill and surround out last year, so it's been a while.  My car is
missing the splash panels between the wheel and the grill, so I was able to
get to the grill from the wheel wells.  I turned the wheels hard in one
direction, and that gave me the access I needed.  I was able to drop the
grill and surround down, and then back thru the front to get it out.

I did it myself, but a helper would be a good idea.   It's a bit tight, and
you don't want to nick the paint.

- tom


On Tue, Dec 31, 2013 at 2:10 PM, TERRY COLL <coll44@msn.com> wrote:

> I'm looking for some advice regards removing the grill surround (to get it
> re-chromed) on my MK III Ph II BJ8.  Does the grill have to come out too?
>  Is
> it  best done from the wheel well (sans wheels)?  Any/all help appreciated.
>
> Terry Coll  '64 BJ8
>
> Happy New Year to all!
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me@gmail.com
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 14:47:06 2013
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References: <52C169BE.7040406@westnet.com.au> <52C20AFD.8060107@westnet.com.au>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 13:45:13 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101
 advicerequested
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

John:  My first thought was - which Vancouver?  Vancouver, Washington, USA, 
or Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada?  They are not that far apart.

In either case, I have suggestions for your trip north:

SONOMA RACEWAY -  North of San Francisco, 8.5 miles west of Hwy 101 at the 
intersection of Hwy 37 and Hwy 121.  Depending on what time of year you 
visit, the raceway hosts NASCAR, Indycar, Historic Car Races, World Touring 
Car Championship, drag racing.

AVENUE OF THE GIANTS - This world-famous scenic drive is a 31-mile portion 
of old Highway 101, which parallels Freeway 101 with its 51,222 acres of 
redwood groves. It is by far the most outstanding display of these giant 
trees in the entire 500 mile redwood belt.  Google it and you can download a 
brochure.

FERNDALE - 21 miles north of the "Avenue of the Giants" and a few miles west 
of Hwy 101.  Discover Northern California's best-kept secret--The Victorian 
Village of Ferndale. A photographer's paradise and a shopper's delight. 
Explore the classic architecture, old-fashioned mercantiles, antique stores, 
art galleries, and specialty shops.

In Eureka, THE SAMOA COOK HOUSE.  Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are still 
served daily at the last surviving lumber camp-style cookhouse in the West, 
built in 1893. Food is served family-style.  Again, Google.

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Rowe" <jarowe@westnet.com.au>
To: "Healey List" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 4:08 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Non Healey content. SF to Vancouver via 101 
advicerequested


> Hi All
>
> We are in the planning stages for a trip in 2014 to USA and would
> welcome any advice we can get.
>
> We are in Perth Western Australia and will be heading to San Francisco
> via New Zealand.
>
> We would like to drive from San Francisco to Vancouver via highway 101,
> in parts, to see as much as we can.
>
>
> We have briefly been to Seattle previously and enjoyed it immensely.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> cheers from West Oz
>
> John
>
> 1959 BT7
> 1963 BJ7 (SWMBO)
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 15:37:21 2013
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From: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 17:34:41 -0500
thread-index: Ac8GeH7VZ4DQqA1qRCey1ltzxm03SQ==
Content-Language: en-us
Subject: [Healeys] Need help with O/D disassembly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
I'm trying to get the O/D sliding clutch out to examine the condition of the
friction linings, which I suspect are worn since I've experienced overdrive
slipping under acceleration.  I'm actually disassembling a spare BJ7 O/D
before trying to tackle the one in my BJ8.
 
Page G.8 of the workshop manual says:
 
"Remove the six 5/16 in. (7.9 mm) nuts securing the two halves of the casing
and separate them, removing the brake ring which is spigoted into the two
pieces."  So far, so good.  Next:
"Lift out the planet carrier assembly."  Not so good.  The planet carrier
assembly is under the sliding clutch, which is under the clutch thrust ring.
Whether it was necessary or not, I removed the "small circlip" (#8 in the
exploded view of Figure G.7), but it didn't allow anything to come out of
the casing.
 
After "Lift out the planet carrier assembly," the manual goes on to say:
"Remove the clutch sliding member complete with the thrust ring and bearing,
the sun wheel and thrust washers."
 
Given the order that the parts appear to be loaded into the casing, the
above statement makes no sense to me.  In any event, I can't get the clutch
thrust ring out.  Can anyone who has experience with dissembling an
overdrive provide any advice?
 
Thanks, and a Happy Healey New Year to all!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
_______________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 14:52:53 -0800
To: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
From: john spaur <jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net>
References: <01d101cf0678$7f33d820$7d9b8860$@rr.com>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need help with O/D disassembly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

I believe you need to remove the flange nut so the sun wheel assemble 
can be freed. I can't remember for sure although I had mine apart last summer.

John

At 05:34 PM 12/31/2013 -0500, BJ8 Healeys wrote:
>Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
>I'm trying to get the O/D sliding clutch out to examine the condition of the
>friction linings, which I suspect are worn since I've experienced overdrive
>slipping under acceleration.  I'm actually disassembling a spare BJ7 O/D
>before trying to tackle the one in my BJ8.
>
>Page G.8 of the workshop manual says:
>
>"Remove the six 5/16 in. (7.9 mm) nuts securing the two halves of the casing
>and separate them, removing the brake ring which is spigoted into the two
>pieces."  So far, so good.  Next:
>"Lift out the planet carrier assembly."  Not so good.  The planet carrier
>assembly is under the sliding clutch, which is under the clutch thrust ring.
>Whether it was necessary or not, I removed the "small circlip" (#8 in the
>exploded view of Figure G.7), but it didn't allow anything to come out of
>the casing.
>
>After "Lift out the planet carrier assembly," the manual goes on to say:
>"Remove the clutch sliding member complete with the thrust ring and bearing,
>the sun wheel and thrust washers."
>
>Given the order that the parts appear to be loaded into the casing, the
>above statement makes no sense to me.  In any event, I can't get the clutch
>thrust ring out.  Can anyone who has experience with dissembling an
>overdrive provide any advice?
>
>Thanks, and a Happy Healey New Year to all!
>Steve Byers
>HBJ8L/36666
>BJ8 Registry
>Havelock, NC
>_______________________________________________
>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
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>
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 16:35:33 2013
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Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2014 00:32:41 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
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To: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <7AYw1n00A0NyJgq01AYx2r>
	<1D09FF1E-C5F4-49B6-BE86-D18F11D817C8@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fog-Driving Light Wiring
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

AFAIK in many European countries spotlights may only be able to switch 
on with high beam headlights on and should switch off automatically when 
the lights are dipped.
Fog lights and dipped lights together are allowed but the use of fog 
lights (front and rear) is only allowed with bad visibility, less than 
50m. In earlier days fog lights should have been switched in such a way 
that either dipped lights or fog lights were on, when the fog lights are 
switched on the dipped lights should be switched of automatically and v.v.
Fog lights may however be used in combination with high beam, this will 
give you a wide light field from the fog lights and a long range light 
field from the high beam (and the spot lights if they are also switched 
on), however any additional lighting for high beam is strictly speaking 
not legal.

Whatever the situation the town lights should always be on with any kind 
of lights on, apart from daytime running lights.
Daytime running lights should switch of automatically when town lights, 
dipped or high beam are switched on.
Rear lights should always be on together with the town lights and thus 
also with high beam and dipped lights.

A happy new year to you all.
Kees Oudesluijs


Wilko2 schreef op 28-12-2013 23:42:
> Depending on where you are, there will laws that dictate how they must be
> wired. Here in CA if they are spots they can only come on with the low beams,
> etc.
>
>
>
> On Dec 28, 2013, at 2:32 PM, Price Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Thank you for those who responded to my query.
>>
>> Fascinating the different approaches to this installation I received.  Some
>> run both lights together, some run each individually, some run the lights
> with
>> high beams, some run the lights with low beams and some run the lights
>> independently of the head lights.
>>
>> A lot of information to contemplate. Again thank you.
>>
>> Price Lindsay
>> 67 BJ8
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/e-wilkins@cox.net
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>
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>
>
>
> -----
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 16:36:26 2013
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	Tue, 31 Dec 2013 17:33:18 -0600 (CST)
From: "John Sims" <ahbn6@verizon.net>
To: "'BJ8 Healeys'" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>,	<healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <01d101cf0678$7f33d820$7d9b8860$@rr.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 18:33:18 -0500
Thread-index: AQFJQ/7rl9u0To5KNuJS+4gFAcH8dJt6eQhw
Content-language: en-us
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need help with O/D disassembly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Did you look at the dismantling and repair manuals on the Technical page, OD
section of my site? The are for  Triumph but same OD unit as we use.

John Sims, BN6
Aberdeen, NJ

www.healey6.com


-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 5:35 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Need help with O/D disassembly

Hello, Healeyphiles -
 
I'm trying to get the O/D sliding clutch out to examine the condition of the
friction linings, which I suspect are worn since I've experienced overdrive
slipping under acceleration.  I'm actually disassembling a spare BJ7 O/D
before trying to tackle the one in my BJ8.
 
Page G.8 of the workshop manual says:
 
"Remove the six 5/16 in. (7.9 mm) nuts securing the two halves of the casing
and separate them, removing the brake ring which is spigoted into the two
pieces."  So far, so good.  Next:
"Lift out the planet carrier assembly."  Not so good.  The planet carrier
assembly is under the sliding clutch, which is under the clutch thrust ring.
Whether it was necessary or not, I removed the "small circlip" (#8 in the
exploded view of Figure G.7), but it didn't allow anything to come out of
the casing.
 
After "Lift out the planet carrier assembly," the manual goes on to say:
"Remove the clutch sliding member complete with the thrust ring and bearing,
the sun wheel and thrust washers."
 
Given the order that the parts appear to be loaded into the casing, the
above statement makes no sense to me.  In any event, I can't get the clutch
thrust ring out.  Can anyone who has experience with dissembling an
overdrive provide any advice?
 
Thanks, and a Happy Healey New Year to all!
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
Havelock, NC
$12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6@verizon.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 16:45:30 2013
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References: <01d101cf0678$7f33d820$7d9b8860$@rr.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 18:40:45 -0500
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need help with O/D disassembly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Hi Steve,
I think I understand where you have encountered problems.
As I understand it you have the main casing separated from the rear casing
and the brake ring has been removed or is still in the main casing and
clear of the rear casing.
At that point a couple of raps on the bearing housing from which the 8 long
pins (which guide the main springs) and the 4 long studs (upon which the
bridge pieces mount) protrude should be sufficient to release the cone
clutch member from the annulus.
Once the cone clutch is released it easily lifts out revealing the planet
carrier which just lifts out of the annulus.
It is wise to do all this with the entire assembly clamped vertically in a
vice by the drive shaft flange.
If this unit has been hanging around for a while my guess is that the inner
clutch lining is stuck to the clutch surface of the annulus, The lining
material tends to absorb moisture which makes the clutch surface "rust" and
adhere to the lining.
As they say in Aussie "Bigger hammer mate".

Michael S
BN1 #174




On Tue, Dec 31, 2013 at 5:34 PM, BJ8 Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>
> I'm trying to get the O/D sliding clutch out to examine the condition of
> the
> friction linings, which I suspect are worn since I've experienced overdrive
> slipping under acceleration.  I'm actually disassembling a spare BJ7 O/D
> before trying to tackle the one in my BJ8.
>
> Page G.8 of the workshop manual says:
>
> "Remove the six 5/16 in. (7.9 mm) nuts securing the two halves of the
> casing
> and separate them, removing the brake ring which is spigoted into the two
> pieces."  So far, so good.  Next:
> "Lift out the planet carrier assembly."  Not so good.  The planet carrier
> assembly is under the sliding clutch, which is under the clutch thrust
> ring.
> Whether it was necessary or not, I removed the "small circlip" (#8 in the
> exploded view of Figure G.7), but it didn't allow anything to come out of
> the casing.
>
> After "Lift out the planet carrier assembly," the manual goes on to say:
> "Remove the clutch sliding member complete with the thrust ring and
> bearing,
> the sun wheel and thrust washers."
>
> Given the order that the parts appear to be loaded into the casing, the
> above statement makes no sense to me.  In any event, I can't get the clutch
> thrust ring out.  Can anyone who has experience with dissembling an
> overdrive provide any advice?
>
> Thanks, and a Happy Healey New Year to all!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
>


-- 
All wisdom is plagiarism; only stupidity is original.
_______________________________________________
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 16:53:35 2013
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From: "Len and/or Marge Hartnett" <thehartnetts@earthlink.net>
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	<CAB3i7LLGZ84swbUFsr6q=OhN6=1QTC0GKr6spChZ1-03y94-xg@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 15:51:24 -0800
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need help with O/D disassembly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Michael:  Or, as they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't use force, use a 
bigger hammer".

(The Other) Len
Vacaville, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
To: "BJ8 Healeys" <sbyers@ec.rr.com>
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need help with O/D disassembly


> Hi Steve,


> As they say in Aussie "Bigger hammer mate".
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 17:16:11 2013
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 19:10:09 -0500
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need help with O/D disassembly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Steve,

My understanding is that the cone clutch comes into play when going into 
overdrive, then the unidirectional clutch takes over and will not allow 
it to slip.
When I took my overdrive apart, there was no unidirectional clutch, just 
a lot of very fine metal particles an metal paste in all of the corners 
and out of the way places inside the overdrive and transmission.  So the 
cone clutch was the only thing there to transmit the power.  In that 
case it could be expected to slip.

By the way, from "How to Fix Your Foreign Car, a guide for the beginner, 
your wife, and the mechanically inept" by Dick O'Kane - "Nolite Id 
Cogere, Cape Malleum Majorem' or Don't force it, get a bigger hammer.

Charlie

On 12/31/2013 5:34 PM, BJ8 Healeys wrote:
> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>   
> I'm trying to get the O/D sliding clutch out to examine the condition of the
> friction linings, which I suspect are worn since I've experienced overdrive
> slipping under acceleration.  I'm actually disassembling a spare BJ7 O/D
> before trying to tackle the one in my BJ8.
>   
> Page G.8 of the workshop manual says:
>   
> "Remove the six 5/16 in. (7.9 mm) nuts securing the two halves of the casing
> and separate them, removing the brake ring which is spigoted into the two
> pieces."  So far, so good.  Next:
> "Lift out the planet carrier assembly."  Not so good.  The planet carrier
> assembly is under the sliding clutch, which is under the clutch thrust ring.
> Whether it was necessary or not, I removed the "small circlip" (#8 in the
> exploded view of Figure G.7), but it didn't allow anything to come out of
> the casing.
>   
> After "Lift out the planet carrier assembly," the manual goes on to say:
> "Remove the clutch sliding member complete with the thrust ring and bearing,
> the sun wheel and thrust washers."
>   
> Given the order that the parts appear to be loaded into the casing, the
> above statement makes no sense to me.  In any event, I can't get the clutch
> thrust ring out.  Can anyone who has experience with dissembling an
> overdrive provide any advice?
>   
> Thanks, and a Happy Healey New Year to all!
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> Havelock, NC
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie@comcast.net
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From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 19:26:52 2013
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 21:23:58 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] New Year
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

May this year be good to you and your families, and your friends.

Bob Johnson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 19:38:05 2013
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From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey@hotmail.com>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 18:35:49 -0800
	FILETIME=[2EE82610:01CF069A]
Subject: [Healeys] Disc brakes again
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Yes, I know this has been do a million times. I will be in the market for new
pads. I do not want ceramic because of the excessive disc wear even though
they are suppose to shorten braking distance.  My question is about the
Classic Gold brand that Moss sells. Are they of any quality or are there
better brands out there? I have a bit of pad left but this is going to be a
year of lots of driving and I've never changed the pads in more than 12
years.
Rich Kahn
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 20:03:55 2013
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From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
To: "'Bob Johnson'" <bjsbj8@gmail.com>, "'Healeys'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <CAJTyXLRe_N1fFwrNd2mtZndfCkJoR1YRbeBZ9_e-5+gtL7XBCA@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 14:00:44 +1100
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Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Year
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

G'day

It's close to 14 hours into 2014 in this part of the world.

Caroline and I were at our social best last night with just the two of us,
the dog and the duckling (new addition - don't ask) settled down for some
serious celebrations in front of the TV.

First it was an excellent 1948 British film called "My Brother Jonathan",
followed by one of the Agatha Christie derived "Marple" series called a 'A
Caribbean Mystery'. Set in the early 1950s on the island of St. Honore
everyone of course got their just desserts. However not long before we
discovered who done it, it's raining cats and dogs and the villain arrived
in a red AH 100. While the top was up there is no doubt the water was
getting inside. It's seen a few times over the next few scenes sitting in
the rain. Made the show for me!

Much better than the midnight fireworks.

Best wishes for 2014 to everyone.

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, 1 January 2014 1:24 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] New Year

May this year be good to you and your families, and your friends.

Bob Johnson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 20:23:43 2013
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	<000001cf069d$ab2bf2d0$0183d870$@tpg.com.au>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 22:21:31 -0500
From: Bob Johnson <bjsbj8@gmail.com>
To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Year
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Saw that Healey in more than one episode. Remember one in which they set
the front end on a pile of rocks, removed a door, and claimed that it was
wrecked. Terrible staging, bit I still enjoyed all of the various Miss
Marples. It is now 1:40 until midnight. Think I'll try to get to sleep
before the fireworks begin. Night all.

Bob Johnson
 On Dec 31, 2013 10:01 PM, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> G'day
>
> It's close to 14 hours into 2014 in this part of the world.
>
> Caroline and I were at our social best last night with just the two of us,
> the dog and the duckling (new addition - don't ask) settled down for some
> serious celebrations in front of the TV.
>
> First it was an excellent 1948 British film called "My Brother Jonathan",
> followed by one of the Agatha Christie derived "Marple" series called a 'A
> Caribbean Mystery'. Set in the early 1950s on the island of St. Honore
> everyone of course got their just desserts. However not long before we
> discovered who done it, it's raining cats and dogs and the villain arrived
> in a red AH 100. While the top was up there is no doubt the water was
> getting inside. It's seen a few times over the next few scenes sitting in
> the rain. Made the show for me!
>
> Much better than the midnight fireworks.
>
> Best wishes for 2014 to everyone.
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
> Sent: Wednesday, 1 January 2014 1:24 PM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] New Year
>
> May this year be good to you and your families, and your friends.
>
> Bob Johnson
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 20:45:36 2013
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 19:41:57 -0800
From: Bill Plck <wpollock@inbox.com>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn@tpg.com.au>, 'Bob Johnson'
	<bjsbj8@gmail.com>, 'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <cajtyxlre_n1ffwrnd2mtzndfckjor1yrbebz9_e-5+gtl7xbca@mail.gmail.com>
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	6vzGdk-Lz99gX2CdP9g@@
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Year
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

We're here on the east coast of the US with our son and his family after a New
Years dinner of steaks on  the grill. Its about 22F outside but with our two
grandkids and a  fireplace going who cares. We're waiting  for the ball to
drop in Times Square with a bottle of the bubbly stuff in hand.  Happy New
Years and good health to all where ever you are in this small world of ours.

Bill and Joan Pollock
CT-USA

> -----Original Message-----
> From: p_cquinn@tpg.com.au
> Sent: Wed, 1 Jan 2014 14:00:44 +1100
> To: bjsbj8@gmail.com, healeys@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Year
>
> G'day
>
> It's close to 14 hours into 2014 in this part of the world.
>
> Caroline and I were at our social best last night with just the two of
> us,
> the dog and the duckling (new addition - don't ask) settled down for some
> serious celebrations in front of the TV.
>
> First it was an excellent 1948 British film called "My Brother Jonathan",
> followed by one of the Agatha Christie derived "Marple" series called a
> 'A
> Caribbean Mystery'. Set in the early 1950s on the island of St. Honore
> everyone of course got their just desserts. However not long before we
> discovered who done it, it's raining cats and dogs and the villain
> arrived
> in a red AH 100. While the top was up there is no doubt the water was
> getting inside. It's seen a few times over the next few scenes sitting in
> the rain. Made the show for me!
>
> Much better than the midnight fireworks.
>
> Best wishes for 2014 to everyone.
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Bob Johnson
> Sent: Wednesday, 1 January 2014 1:24 PM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] New Year
>
> May this year be good to you and your families, and your friends.
>
> Bob Johnson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


From healeys-bounces@autox.team.net  Tue Dec 31 21:50:52 2013
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References: <01d101cf0678$7f33d820$7d9b8860$@rr.com>
	<52C35CE1.5060301@comcast.net>
From: David Nock British Car Specialists <healeydoc@sbcglobal.net>
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2013 20:47:17 -0800
To: Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Need help with O/D disassembly
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Errors-To: healeys-bounces@autox.team.net

Did you by any chance take a pressure reading prior to disassembly. You
probably will not see any problem with the clutch. They rarely cause a
problem. Mostar likely you had low pressure. The other thing that can cause
the same symptom is the clutch slave hose collapses on the inside and will act
like a slipping clutch.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767

www.britishcarspecialists.com

Please feel free to view an interview with the Nock's in 2009
	Enjoy
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOTTRYkbQzs
.
.

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 31, 2013, at 4:10 PM, Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Steve,
>
> My understanding is that the cone clutch comes into play when going into
overdrive, then the unidirectional clutch takes over and will not allow it to
slip.
> When I took my overdrive apart, there was no unidirectional clutch, just a
lot of very fine metal particles an metal paste in all of the corners and out
of the way places inside the overdrive and transmission.  So the cone clutch
was the only thing there to transmit the power.  In that case it could be
expected to slip.
>
> By the way, from "How to Fix Your Foreign Car, a guide for the beginner,
your wife, and the mechanically inept" by Dick O'Kane - "Nolite Id Cogere,
Cape Malleum Majorem' or Don't force it, get a bigger hammer.
>
> Charlie
>
>> On 12/31/2013 5:34 PM, BJ8 Healeys wrote:
>> Hello, Healeyphiles -
>>  I'm trying to get the O/D sliding clutch out to examine the condition of
the
>> friction linings, which I suspect are worn since I've experienced
overdrive
>> slipping under acceleration.  I'm actually disassembling a spare BJ7 O/D
>> before trying to tackle the one in my BJ8.
>>  Page G.8 of the workshop manual says:
>>  "Remove the six 5/16 in. (7.9 mm) nuts securing the two halves of the
casing
>> and separate them, removing the brake ring which is spigoted into the two
>> pieces."  So far, so good.  Next:
>> "Lift out the planet carrier assembly."  Not so good.  The planet carrier
>> assembly is under the sliding clutch, which is under the clutch thrust
ring.
>> Whether it was necessary or not, I removed the "small circlip" (#8 in the
>> exploded view of Figure G.7), but it didn't allow anything to come out of
>> the casing.
>>  After "Lift out the planet carrier assembly," the manual goes on to say:
>> "Remove the clutch sliding member complete with the thrust ring and
bearing,
>> the sun wheel and thrust washers."
>>  Given the order that the parts appear to be loaded into the casing, the
>> above statement makes no sense to me.  In any event, I can't get the
clutch
>> thrust ring out.  Can anyone who has experience with dissembling an
>> overdrive provide any advice?
>>  Thanks, and a Happy Healey New Year to all!
>> Steve Byers
>> HBJ8L/36666
>> BJ8 Registry
>> Havelock, NC
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