Subject: Re: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011

From: Tony Drews via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 14 May 2023 16:24:57 -0500

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You can also make some custom thickness replacements for the figure 8 
gaskets to tune the protrusion.  You can get brass shim stock from local 
hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut out with scissors / snips.  I do 
separate O shapes, the siamesed cylinders don't really need the gasket 
combined into a fig 8 one.

Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more fiddly.  
You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.

Regards, Tony Drews

On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve Yott via Fot wrote:
> You can machine the cylinder seat the required amount.  I have a set 
> of mandrels I made and do this frequently on the lathe.
>
> Steve Yott
>
>
>
> Steve Yott
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Philip Gott via Fot <[email-masked]>
> Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: Friends Of Triumph <[email-masked]>
> Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011
>
> Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding .011”? 
> The head has been staked per Kas’s book.
> I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop delays) 
> and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal installed. It 
> has been decked already. Also line bored and cam bearings and cam 
> installed and timed. I want to know if I can assemble this with 
> confidence or if I am asking for trouble?  I don’t anticipate problems 
> with oil or water sealing as I will use Hylomar on a .020” steel head 
> gasket with the raised corrugating around the oil and water galleys.
> The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in “old reliable” during 
> a test day.
> Please advise.
> Thanks and regards,
> Phil Gott
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> [email-masked]
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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>
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>
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    <p>You can also make some custom thickness replacements for the
      figure 8 gaskets to tune the protrusion.  You can get brass shim
      stock from local hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut out with
      scissors / snips.  I do separate O shapes, the siamesed cylinders
      don't really need the gasket combined into a fig 8 one.</p>
    <p>Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more
      fiddly.  You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.</p>
    <p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve Yott via
      Fot wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="auto">You can machine the cylinder seat the required
        amount.  I have a set of mandrels I made and do this frequently
        on the lathe.</div>
      <div dir="auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div dir="auto">Steve Yott</div>
      <div dir="auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div dir="auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div dir="auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div id="composer_signature" dir="auto">
        <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
          charset=UTF-8">
        <div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Steve Yott</div>
      </div>
      <div dir="auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:#000000" align="left">
        <div>-------- Original message --------</div>
        <div>From: Philip Gott via Fot <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> </div>
        <div>Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
        <div>To: Friends Of Triumph <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> </div>
        <div>Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding
      .011”? The head has been staked per Kas’s book. <br>
      I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop
      delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal
      installed. It has been decked already. Also line bored and cam
      bearings and cam installed and timed. I want to know if I can
      assemble this with confidence or if I am asking for trouble?  I
      don’t anticipate problems with oil or water sealing as I will use
      Hylomar on a .020” steel head gasket with the raised corrugating
      around the oil and water galleys.<br>
      The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in “old reliable”
      during a test day.<br>
      Please advise.<br>
      Thanks and regards,<br>
      Phil Gott<br>
      <br>
      Sent from my iPhone<br>
      _______________________________________________<br>
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
      <br>
      <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.fot-racing.com">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br>
      <br>
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      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>

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Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot">http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot</a>

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_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot

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---

From: Philip Gott via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2023 06:19:31 -0400

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Thanks, Tony;<div>Changing the figure 8 gas=
ket thickness does sound like the easiest and most precise solution. &nbsp;S=
everal others have made the same suggestion to use brass or copper shim stoc=
k. I am leery of creep in brass or copper. What is the experience you all ha=
ve had? Does the creep take a set after a while or do you need to continuall=
y retorque the head? &nbsp;Is there a similar issue with solid copper head g=
askets?</div><div>The responses of everyone are much appreciated. Brendon an=
d Sean Alexander have offered some steel shim gaskets if he has the correct t=
hickness (.010=E2=80=9D). &nbsp;Just hoping I don=E2=80=99t need to reduce p=
iston compression height as well=E2=80=A6.</div><div>Regards,</div><div>Phil=
<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><bloc=
kquote type=3D"cite">On May 14, 2023, at 7:16 PM, Tony Drews via Fot &lt;fot=
@autox.team.net&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cit=
e"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
 =20
    <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-8"=
 =20
 =20
    <p>You can also make some custom thickness replacements for the
      figure 8 gaskets to tune the protrusion.&nbsp; You can get brass shim
      stock from local hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut out with
      scissors / snips.&nbsp; I do separate O shapes, the siamesed cylinders=

      don't really need the gasket combined into a fig 8 one.</p>
    <p>Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more
      fiddly.&nbsp; You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.</p>
    <p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
    </p>
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve Yott via
      Fot wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite" cite=3D"mid:[email-masked]=
am.net">
      <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3DUTF-=
8">
      <div dir=3D"auto">You can machine the cylinder seat the required
        amount.&nbsp; I have a set of mandrels I made and do this frequently=

        on the lathe.</div>
      <div dir=3D"auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div dir=3D"auto">Steve Yott</div>
      <div dir=3D"auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div dir=3D"auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div dir=3D"auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div id=3D"composer_signature" dir=3D"auto">
        <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html;
          charset=3DUTF-8">
        <div style=3D"font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir=3D"auto">Steve Yott</=
div>
      </div>
      <div dir=3D"auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:100%;color:#000000" align=3D"left=
">
        <div>-------- Original message --------</div>
        <div>From: Philip Gott via Fot <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" hr=
ef=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> </div>
        <div>Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
        <div>To: Friends Of Triumph <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D=
"mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> </div>
        <div>Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding
      .011=E2=80=9D? The head has been staked per Kas=E2=80=99s book. <br>
      I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop
      delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal
      installed. It has been decked already. Also line bored and cam
      bearings and cam installed and timed. I want to know if I can
      assemble this with confidence or if I am asking for trouble?&nbsp; I
      don=E2=80=99t anticipate problems with oil or water sealing as I will u=
se
      Hylomar on a .020=E2=80=9D steel head gasket with the raised corrugati=
ng
      around the oil and water galleys.<br>
      The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in =E2=80=9Cold reliable=
=E2=80=9D
      during a test day.<br>
      Please advise.<br>
      Thanks and regards,<br>
      Phil Gott<br>
      <br>
      Sent from my iPhone<br>
      _______________________________________________<br>
      <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
t">[email-masked]</a><br>
      <br>
      <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com">=
http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br>
      <br>
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wi.rr.com</a><br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <br>
      <fieldset class=3D"moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
      <pre class=3D"moz-quote-pre" wrap=3D"">_______________________________=
________________
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@autox.team.net</a>

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e.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>
Archive: <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/ar=
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 =20

<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span>fot@au=
tox.team.net</span><br><span></span><br><span>http://www.fot-racing.com</spa=
n><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><=
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From: Ponostyle via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2023 07:25:55 -0700

--===============6415031101119686185==
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Solid copper and brass doesn=E2=80=99t really creep much in compression. =
And if it did, in this case the gasket is bounded on the edges with not =
many places to creep to.=20
Bill Babcock
Beach Bum
[email-masked]
https://www.Ponostyle.com

> On May 15, 2023, at 3:19 AM, Philip Gott via Fot <[email-masked]> =
wrote:
>=20
> Thanks, Tony;
> Changing the figure 8 gasket thickness does sound like the easiest and =
most precise solution.  Several others have made the same suggestion to =
use brass or copper shim stock. I am leery of creep in brass or copper. =
What is the experience you all have had? Does the creep take a set after =
a while or do you need to continually retorque the head?  Is there a =
similar issue with solid copper head gaskets?
> The responses of everyone are much appreciated. Brendon and Sean =
Alexander have offered some steel shim gaskets if he has the correct =
thickness (.010=E2=80=9D).  Just hoping I don=E2=80=99t need to reduce =
piston compression height as well=E2=80=A6.
> Regards,
> Phil
>=20
> Sent from my iPhone
>=20
>> On May 14, 2023, at 7:16 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <[email-masked]> =
wrote:
>>=20
>> =EF=BB=BF
>> You can also make some custom thickness replacements for the figure 8 =
gaskets to tune the protrusion.  You can get brass shim stock from local =
hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut out with scissors / snips.  I do =
separate O shapes, the siamesed cylinders don't really need the gasket =
combined into a fig 8 one.
>>=20
>> Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more fiddly.  =
>>> You can machine the cylinder seat the required amount.  I have a set =
>>> From: Philip Gott via Fot <[email-masked]> =
>>> To: Friends Of Triumph <[email-masked]> =
>>> Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding =
.011=E2=80=9D? The head has been staked per Kas=E2=80=99s book.=20
>>> I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop =
delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal =
installed. It has been decked already. Also line bored and cam bearings =
and cam installed and timed. I want to know if I can assemble this with =
confidence or if I am asking for trouble?  I don=E2=80=99t anticipate =
problems with oil or water sealing as I will use Hylomar on a .020=E2=80=9D=
 steel head gasket with the raised corrugating around the oil and water =
galleys.
>>> The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in =E2=80=9Cold =
reliable=E2=80=9D during a test day.
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>>>=20
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive =
<http://autox.team.net/archive> http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked] =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>>>=20
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive =
<http://autox.team.net/archive> http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot =
<http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked] =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]>
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http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">Solid=
 copper and brass doesn=E2=80=99t really creep much in compression. And =
if it did, in this case the gasket is bounded on the edges with not many =
places to creep to.&nbsp;<br class=3D""><div class=3D"">
<div><b class=3D"">Bill Babcock</b><br class=3D""><i class=3D"">Beach =
Bum</i><br class=3D""><a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a><br =
class=3D"">https://www.Ponostyle.com<br class=3D""></div>

</div>
<div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On May 15, 2023, at 3:19 AM, Philip Gott via Fot &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><meta =
http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" =
class=3D""><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Thanks, Tony;<div =
class=3D"">Changing the figure 8 gasket thickness does sound like the =
easiest and most precise solution. &nbsp;Several others have made the =
same suggestion to use brass or copper shim stock. I am leery of creep =
in brass or copper. What is the experience you all have had? Does the =
creep take a set after a while or do you need to continually retorque =
the head? &nbsp;Is there a similar issue with solid copper head =
gaskets?</div><div class=3D"">The responses of everyone are much =
appreciated. Brendon and Sean Alexander have offered some steel shim =
gaskets if he has the correct thickness (.010=E2=80=9D). &nbsp;Just =
hoping I don=E2=80=99t need to reduce piston compression height as =
well=E2=80=A6.</div><div class=3D"">Regards,</div><div class=3D"">Phil<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">Sent from my =
iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D""><br class=3D""><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D"">On May 14, 2023, at 7:16 PM, Tony Drews via Fot =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">=EF=BB=BF
 =20
    <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DUTF-8" class=3D""><p class=3D"">You can also make some custom =
thickness replacements for the
      figure 8 gaskets to tune the protrusion.&nbsp; You can get brass =
shim
      stock from local hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut out with
      scissors / snips.&nbsp; I do separate O shapes, the siamesed =
cylinders
      don't really need the gasket combined into a fig 8 one.</p><p =
class=3D"">Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more
      fiddly.&nbsp; You'll want to verify piston height at TDC =
too.</p><p class=3D"">Regards, Tony Drews<br class=3D"">
    </p>
    <div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve Yott via
      Fot wrote:<br class=3D"">
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite" =
cite=3D"mid:[email-masked]" class=3D"">
      <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DUTF-8" class=3D"">
      <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">You can machine the cylinder seat the =
required
        amount.&nbsp; I have a set of mandrels I made and do this =
frequently
        on the lathe.</div>
      <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
      </div>
      <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Steve Yott</div>
      <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
      </div>
      <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
      </div>
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      </div>
      <div id=3D"composer_signature" dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">
        <meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html;
          charset=3DUTF-8" class=3D"">
        <div style=3D"font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D"">Steve Yott</div>
      </div>
      <div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D"">
      </div>
      <div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
      </div>
      <div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size: 100%;" align=3D"left" =
class=3D"">
        <div class=3D"">-------- Original message --------</div>
        <div class=3D"">From: Philip Gott via Fot <a =
class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> </div>
        <div class=3D"">Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
        <div class=3D"">To: Friends Of Triumph <a =
class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> </div>
        <div class=3D"">Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div>
        <div class=3D""><br class=3D"">
        </div>
      </div>
      Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding
      .011=E2=80=9D? The head has been staked per Kas=E2=80=99s book. =
<br class=3D"">
      I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop
      delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal
      installed. It has been decked already. Also line bored and cam
      bearings and cam installed and timed. I want to know if I can
      assemble this with confidence or if I am asking for trouble?&nbsp; =
I
      don=E2=80=99t anticipate problems with oil or water sealing as I =
will use
      Hylomar on a .020=E2=80=9D steel head gasket with the raised =
corrugating
      around the oil and water galleys.<br class=3D"">
      The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in =E2=80=9Cold =
reliable=E2=80=9D
      during a test day.<br class=3D"">
      Please advise.<br class=3D"">
      Thanks and regards,<br class=3D"">
      Phil Gott<br class=3D"">
      <br class=3D"">
      Sent from my iPhone<br class=3D"">
      _______________________________________________<br class=3D"">
      <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" =
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 =20

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---

From: Tony Drews via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2023 10:55:24 -0500

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I've had no issue with brass compressing / creeping.  It's how I got my 
protrusion set.

- Tony

On 5/15/2023 5:19 AM, Philip Gott wrote:
> Thanks, Tony;
> Changing the figure 8 gasket thickness does sound like the easiest and 
> most precise solution.  Several others have made the same suggestion 
> to use brass or copper shim stock. I am leery of creep in brass or 
> copper. What is the experience you all have had? Does the creep take a 
> set after a while or do you need to continually retorque the head?  Is 
> there a similar issue with solid copper head gaskets?
> The responses of everyone are much appreciated. Brendon and Sean 
> Alexander have offered some steel shim gaskets if he has the correct 
> thickness (.010”).  Just hoping I don’t need to reduce piston 
> compression height as well….
> Regards,
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On May 14, 2023, at 7:16 PM, Tony Drews via Fot <[email-masked]> 
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> gaskets to tune the protrusion.  You can get brass shim stock from 
>> local hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut out with scissors / 
>> snips.  I do separate O shapes, the siamesed cylinders don't really 
>> need the gasket combined into a fig 8 one.
>>
>>> .011”? The head has been staked per Kas’s book.
>>> around the oil and water galleys.
>>> during a test day.
--------------PDx50FrIX5j7F7Uy0Xi7hYsB
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<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>I've had no issue with brass compressing / creeping.  It's how I
      got my protrusion set.</p>
    <p>- Tony<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/15/2023 5:19 AM, Philip Gott
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      Thanks, Tony;
      <div>Changing the figure 8 gasket thickness does sound like the
        easiest and most precise solution.  Several others have made the
        same suggestion to use brass or copper shim stock. I am leery of
        creep in brass or copper. What is the experience you all have
        had? Does the creep take a set after a while or do you need to
        continually retorque the head?  Is there a similar issue with
        solid copper head gaskets?</div>
      <div>The responses of everyone are much appreciated. Brendon and
        Sean Alexander have offered some steel shim gaskets if he has
        the correct thickness (.010”).  Just hoping I don’t need to
        reduce piston compression height as well….</div>
      <div>Regards,</div>
      <div>Phil<br>
        <br>
        <div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div>
        <div dir="ltr"><br>
          <blockquote type="cite">On May 14, 2023, at 7:16 PM, Tony
            Drews via Fot <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:[email-masked]">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a> wrote:<br>
            <br>
          </blockquote>
        </div>
        <blockquote type="cite">
          <div dir="ltr">
            <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
              charset=UTF-8">
            <p>You can also make some custom thickness replacements for
              the figure 8 gaskets to tune the protrusion.  You can get
              brass shim stock from local hardware store or McMaster
              Carr and cut out with scissors / snips.  I do separate O
              shapes, the siamesed cylinders don't really need the
              gasket combined into a fig 8 one.</p>
            <p>Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more
              fiddly.  You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.</p>
            <p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
            </p>
            <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve
              Yott via Fot wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote type="cite"
              cite="mid:[email-masked]">
              <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
                charset=UTF-8">
              <div dir="auto">You can machine the cylinder seat the
                required amount.  I have a set of mandrels I made and do
                this frequently on the lathe.</div>
              <div dir="auto"><br>
              </div>
              <div dir="auto">Steve Yott</div>
              <div dir="auto"><br>
              </div>
              <div dir="auto"><br>
              </div>
              <div dir="auto"><br>
              </div>
              <div id="composer_signature" dir="auto">
                <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
                  charset=UTF-8">
                <div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Steve
                  Yott</div>
              </div>
              <div dir="auto"><br>
              </div>
              <div><br>
              </div>
              <div dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:#000000"
                align="left">
                <div>-------- Original message --------</div>
                <div>From: Philip Gott via Fot <a
                    class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                    moz-do-not-send="true">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>
                </div>
                <div>Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
                <div>To: Friends Of Triumph <a
                    class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
                    href="mailto:[email-masked]"
                    moz-do-not-send="true">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>
                </div>
                <div>Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
              </div>
              Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves
              protruding .011”? The head has been staked per Kas’s book.
              <br>
              I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine
              shop delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris
              Marx seal installed. It has been decked already. Also line
              bored and cam bearings and cam installed and timed. I want
              to know if I can assemble this with confidence or if I am
              asking for trouble?  I don’t anticipate problems with oil
              or water sealing as I will use Hylomar on a .020” steel
              head gasket with the raised corrugating around the oil and
              water galleys.<br>
              The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in “old
              reliable” during a test day.<br>
              Please advise.<br>
              Thanks and regards,<br>
              Phil Gott<br>
              <br>
              Sent from my iPhone<br>
              _______________________________________________<br>
              <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated moz-txt-link-freetext"
                href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a><br>
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              <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________
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From: Larry Young via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2023 09:45:57 -0500

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I don't see how anyone ever gets this right without a variety of gasket 
thicknesses. I bought brass shim stock of various thicknesses and cut a 
bunch of shims. The problem using snips is it is difficult to cut the 
inner diameter. You can make nice cuts using a cheap circular cutter and 
a drill press. They will tend to curl up, but you can work around that. 
Photos are needed to explain the procedure. I think Tony used to have 
photos at his site. If they aren't still there, I can try and locate them.
  - Larry

On 5/14/2023 4:24 PM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote:
>> confidence or if I am asking for trouble?  I don’t anticipate 
>> problems with oil or water sealing as I will use Hylomar on a .020” 
>> steel head gasket with the raised corrugating around the oil and 
>> water galleys.
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
>
>

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<html>
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    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
  </head>
  <body>
    I don't see how anyone ever gets this right without a variety of
    gasket thicknesses. I bought brass shim stock of various thicknesses
    and cut a bunch of shims. The problem using snips is it is difficult
    to cut the inner diameter. You can make nice cuts using a cheap
    circular cutter and a drill press. They will tend to curl up, but
    you can work around that. Photos are needed to explain the
    procedure. I think Tony used to have photos at his site. If they
    aren't still there, I can try and locate them.<br>
     - Larry<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 4:24 PM, Tony Drews via
      Fot wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <p>You can also make some custom thickness replacements for the
        figure 8 gaskets to tune the protrusion.  You can get brass shim
        stock from local hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut out
        with scissors / snips.  I do separate O shapes, the siamesed
        cylinders don't really need the gasket combined into a fig 8
        one.</p>
      <p>Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more
        fiddly.  You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.</p>
      <p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
      </p>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve Yott via
        Fot wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
        cite="mid:[email-masked]">
        <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
          charset=UTF-8">
        <div dir="auto">You can machine the cylinder seat the required
          amount.  I have a set of mandrels I made and do this
          frequently on the lathe.</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Steve Yott</div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div id="composer_signature" dir="auto">
          <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
            charset=UTF-8">
          <div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Steve Yott</div>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:#000000"
          align="left">
          <div>-------- Original message --------</div>
          <div>From: Philip Gott via Fot <a
              class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
              href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>
          </div>
          <div>Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
          <div>To: Friends Of Triumph <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
              href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>
          </div>
          <div>Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
        </div>
        Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding
        .011”? The head has been staked per Kas’s book. <br>
        I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop
        delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal
        installed. It has been decked already. Also line bored and cam
        bearings and cam installed and timed. I want to know if I can
        assemble this with confidence or if I am asking for trouble?  I
        don’t anticipate problems with oil or water sealing as I will
        use Hylomar on a .020” steel head gasket with the raised
        corrugating around the oil and water galleys.<br>
        The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in “old reliable”
        during a test day.<br>
        Please advise.<br>
        Thanks and regards,<br>
        Phil Gott<br>
        <br>
        Sent from my iPhone<br>
        _______________________________________________<br>
        <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated moz-txt-link-freetext"
          href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true">[email-masked]</a><br>
        <br>
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From: Tony Drews via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2023 10:09:49 -0500

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Pictures are at the bottom of this page:

https://tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm

Regards, Tony Drews

On 5/17/2023 9:45 AM, Larry Young via Fot wrote:
> circular cutter and a drill press. They will tend to curl up, but you 
> can work around that. Photos are needed to explain the procedure. I 
> think Tony used to have photos at his site. If they aren't still 
> there, I can try and locate them.
>  - Larry
>
>>> assemble this with confidence or if I am asking for trouble? I don’t 
>>> anticipate problems with oil or water sealing as I will use Hylomar 
>>> on a .020” steel head gasket with the raised corrugating around the 
>>> oil and water galleys.
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<html>
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  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>Pictures are at the bottom of this page:</p>
    <p><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm">https://tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm</a> <br>
    </p>
    <p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/17/2023 9:45 AM, Larry Young via
      Fot wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      I don't see how anyone ever gets this right without a variety of
      gasket thicknesses. I bought brass shim stock of various
      thicknesses and cut a bunch of shims. The problem using snips is
      it is difficult to cut the inner diameter. You can make nice cuts
      using a cheap circular cutter and a drill press. They will tend to
      curl up, but you can work around that. Photos are needed to
      explain the procedure. I think Tony used to have photos at his
      site. If they aren't still there, I can try and locate them.<br>
       - Larry<br>
      <br>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 4:24 PM, Tony Drews via
        Fot wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
        cite="mid:[email-masked]">
        <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
          charset=UTF-8">
        <p>You can also make some custom thickness replacements for the
          figure 8 gaskets to tune the protrusion.  You can get brass
          shim stock from local hardware store or McMaster Carr and cut
          out with scissors / snips.  I do separate O shapes, the
          siamesed cylinders don't really need the gasket combined into
          a fig 8 one.</p>
        <p>Decking the block on the wet liner engine makes this more
          fiddly.  You'll want to verify piston height at TDC too.</p>
        <p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
        </p>
        <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/14/2023 2:07 PM, Steve Yott
          via Fot wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote type="cite"
          cite="mid:[email-masked]">
          <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
            charset=UTF-8">
          <div dir="auto">You can machine the cylinder seat the required
            amount.  I have a set of mandrels I made and do this
            frequently on the lathe.</div>
          <div dir="auto"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="auto">Steve Yott</div>
          <div dir="auto"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="auto"><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="auto"><br>
          </div>
          <div id="composer_signature" dir="auto">
            <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
              charset=UTF-8">
            <div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Steve
              Yott</div>
          </div>
          <div dir="auto"><br>
          </div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:#000000"
            align="left">
            <div>-------- Original message --------</div>
            <div>From: Philip Gott via Fot <a
                class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
                href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>
            </div>
            <div>Date: 5/14/23 1:02 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
            <div>To: Friends Of Triumph <a
                class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
                href="mailto:[email-masked]" moz-do-not-send="true">&lt;[email-masked]&gt;</a>
            </div>
            <div>Subject: [Fot] TR sleeve protrusion .011 </div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
          </div>
          Has anyone had experience with the cylinder sleeves protruding
          .011”? The head has been staked per Kas’s book. <br>
          I am trying to build an engine quickly (avoiding machine shop
          delays) and have a block with billet crank and Chris Marx seal
          installed. It has been decked already. Also line bored and cam
          bearings and cam installed and timed. I want to know if I can
          assemble this with confidence or if I am asking for trouble? 
          I don’t anticipate problems with oil or water sealing as I
          will use Hylomar on a .020” steel head gasket with the raised
          corrugating around the oil and water galleys.<br>
          The crank broke and a cylinder sleeve cracked in “old
          reliable” during a test day.<br>
          Please advise.<br>
          Thanks and regards,<br>
          Phil Gott<br>
          <br>
          Sent from my iPhone<br>
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