Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Crankshaft

From: Geoff Byrne via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2021 17:50:49 +1100

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You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 but=
 what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons=20
Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under

Sent from my iPad

> On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <[email-masked]> wrote:=

>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and ni=
trided, but with a stock "damper".  No issues reving safely north of 7,000. =
 Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high rpm.
>=20
> I have Pauter rods,  a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger bolt=
s.   (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly)=20
>=20
> I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone out=
 of business.
>=20
> If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons route,  consider having th=
e pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longer rods=
 to match.
>=20
> Jason
>=20
>> On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <[email-masked]> w=
rote:
>> I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration d=
amper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently.  I=E2=80=99m not s=
ure you need billet on a GT6.  Never had a bottom end failure.
>> Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need to be torqu=
ed by stretch gauge.  If you use the wrong lube on them you can overtorque t=
hem easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask me how I know).
>> Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - rea=
sonable price, good specs, will make them any way you want them.
>>=20
>> On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <[email-masked]>=
 wrote:
>>=20
>> Hi all.
>>  Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshafts.  Also looking for opinion=
s on connecting rods and forged pistons.  Starting with the bottom end this t=
ime..
>>                              Thanks . P.J.
>> _______________________________________________
>> [email-masked]
>>=20
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
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>>=20
>>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in th=
e 2litre motor mine revs to 8 but what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and t=
hen use TR 6 pistons&nbsp;<div>Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under<br><br><div=
 dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D=
"cite">On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot &lt;[email-masked]=
&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"=
ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"auto"><div>One more vote for a properly prepared s=
tock crank. Mine is balanced and nitrided, but with a stock "damper".&nbsp; N=
o issues reving safely north of 7,000.&nbsp; Auxiliary oiling to the front m=
ain bearings is a must for high rpm.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div d=
ir=3D"auto">I have Pauter rods,&nbsp; a little heavier than Carillo's, but h=
ave larger bolts.&nbsp; &nbsp;(5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly)&nbsp;<=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I'm running Venolia forge=
d pistons, they work well but have since gone out of business.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">If you are going the custom rods/custo=
m pistons route,&nbsp; consider having the pistons made with a shorter compr=
ession height than stock, and longer rods to match.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><=
br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Jason<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"au=
to"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scot=
t Janzen via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
t</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:=
0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"word-w=
rap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">I run a stock crank, crack test=
ed, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration damper - no problem revving into th=
e sevens, consistently.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m not sure you need billet on a GT6.=
&nbsp; Never had a bottom end failure.<div>Rods - Carillo - only drawback is=
 little tiny bolts that need to be torqued by stretch gauge.&nbsp; If you us=
e the wrong lube on them you can overtorque them easily, and the little bugg=
ers cost about $40 each (ask me how I know).</div><div>Pistons - I=E2=80=99v=
e had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - reasonable price, good spec=
s, will make them any way you want them.<br><div><br><div>On Dec 5, 2021, at=
 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
 target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div=
><br><div><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi all.<div>&nbsp;Am looking for info on GT6 bill=
et crankshafts.&nbsp; Also looking for opinions on connecting rods and forge=
d pistons.&nbsp; Starting with the bottom end this time..</div><div>&nbsp; &=
nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &=
nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Thanks . P.J.</div></div>
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From: McKearn McKearn via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2021 09:36:01 -0600

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Can you explaine the longer rods and TR6 pistons to me please?
                            Thanks. P.J.

On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 =
but what
> you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons
> On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <[email-masked]> wrote=
:
>
> =EF=BB=BF
> One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and
> nitrided, but with a stock "damper".  No issues reving safely north of
> 7,000.  Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high rp=
m.
>
> I have Pauter rods,  a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger
> bolts.   (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly)
>
> I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone ou=
t
> of business.
>
> If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons route,  consider having
> the pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longer
> rods to match.
>
> Jason
>
> On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <[email-masked]>
> wrote:
>
>> I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration
>> damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently.  I=E2=80=99m =
not sure
>> you need billet on a GT6.  Never had a bottom end failure.
>> Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need to be
>> torqued by stretch gauge.  If you use the wrong lube on them you can
>> overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask =
me
>> how I know).
>> Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - re=
asonable
>> price, good specs, will make them any way you want them.
>>
>> On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <[email-masked]=
>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi all.
>>  Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshafts.  Also looking for
>> opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons.  Starting with the botto=
m
>> end this time..
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
>>
>>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>=
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Can you explaine the longer rods and TR6 pistons to me ple=
ase?<div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Thanks. P.J.</div></div><br><div class=3D"g=
mail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12=
:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">fot@au=
tox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" styl=
e=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);paddin=
g-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the =
2litre motor mine revs to 8 but what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and t=
hen use TR 6 pistons=C2=A0<div>Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under<br><br><di=
v dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=
=3D"cite">On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mai=
lto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:=
<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=
=BB=BF<div dir=3D"auto"><div>One more vote for a properly prepared stock cr=
ank. Mine is balanced and nitrided, but with a stock &quot;damper&quot;.=C2=
=A0 No issues reving safely north of 7,000.=C2=A0 Auxiliary oiling to the f=
ront main bearings is a must for high rpm.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div=
><div dir=3D"auto">I have Pauter rods,=C2=A0 a little heavier than Carillo&=
#39;s, but have larger bolts.=C2=A0 =C2=A0(5/16&quot; vs 1/4&quot; if I rem=
ember correctly)=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I=
&#39;m running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone o=
ut of business.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">If you a=
re going the custom rods/custom pistons route,=C2=A0 consider having the pi=
stons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longer rods to=
 match.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Jason<br><br><di=
v class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">=
On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fo=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></=
div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bor=
der-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"overflo=
w-wrap: break-word;">I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided,=
 with a vibration damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently=
.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m not sure you need billet on a GT6.=C2=A0 Never had a bo=
ttom end failure.<div>Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts t=
hat need to be torqued by stretch gauge.=C2=A0 If you use the wrong lube on=
 them you can overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40=
 each (ask me how I know).</div><div>Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good luck w=
ith Wiseco making them for me - reasonable price, good specs, will make the=
m any way you want them.<br><div><br><div>On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKe=
arn McKearn via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br><div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr">Hi all.<div>=C2=A0Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshaf=
ts.=C2=A0 Also looking for opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons.=
=C2=A0 Starting with the bottom end this time..</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Thanks . P.J.</div></div>
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From: Jason Sukey via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2021 10:38:11 -0500

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Hi PJ,
         In theory, the closer the wrist pin is to the top of the piston,
the more stable the piston is in the bore; the rings will seal better.  And
the piston can be shorter with less mass.

Longer rods lead to less thrust loading of the piston against the cylinder
wall.  Less friction for more power and less wear.

There's also the argument of rod length to stroke ratio, but I doubt we are
making enough change here to count this as a benefit.

I can't say exactly how much power it's really worth, .... but if you are
ordering custom pistons and rods anyways, it doesn't add any cost to make
them "better".

Jason

On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 10:32 AM McKearn McKearn <[email-masked]> wrote:

>> You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8=
 but what
>> On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <[email-masked]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> =EF=BB=BF
>> 7,000.  Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high r=
pm.
>> I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone
>> out of business.
>>
>> the pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and longe=
r
>>> damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently.  I=E2=80=99m=
 not sure
>>> overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask=
 me
>>> how I know).
>>> Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - r=
easonable
>>> On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <[email-masked]=
t>
>>> opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons.  Starting with the bott=
om
>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fo=
t
>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fo=
t
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi PJ,<div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0In theory, th=
e closer the wrist pin is to the top of the piston, the more stable the pis=
ton is in the bore; the rings will seal better.=C2=A0 And the piston can be=
 shorter with less mass.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"=
>Longer rods lead to less thrust loading of the piston against the cylinder=
 wall.=C2=A0 Less friction for more power and less wear.=C2=A0</div><div di=
r=3D"auto"><br></div><div>There&#39;s also the argument of rod length to st=
roke ratio, but I doubt we are making enough change here to count this as a=
 benefit.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I can&#39;t sa=
y exactly how much power it&#39;s really worth, .... but if you are orderin=
g custom pistons and rods anyways, it doesn&#39;t add any cost to make them=
 &quot;better&quot;.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div>Jason</div></div=
><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mo=
n, Dec 6, 2021 at 10:32 AM McKearn McKearn &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:mckearn2@g=
mail.com">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"g=
mail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Can you explaine the longer ro=
ds and TR6 pistons to me please?<div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Thanks. P.J.</d=
iv></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_att=
r">On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailt=
o:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<b=
r></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto"=
>You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 b=
ut what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons=C2=A0<di=
v>Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iP=
ad</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:=
41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=
=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><bl=
ockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"auto"><div>One=
 more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and nitrid=
ed, but with a stock &quot;damper&quot;.=C2=A0 No issues reving safely nort=
h of 7,000.=C2=A0 Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for=
 high rpm.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I have Pauter=
 rods,=C2=A0 a little heavier than Carillo&#39;s, but have larger bolts.=C2=
=A0 =C2=A0(5/16&quot; vs 1/4&quot; if I remember correctly)=C2=A0</div><div=
 dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;m running Venolia forged pi=
stons, they work well but have since gone out of business.</div><div dir=3D=
"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">If you are going the custom rods/custom =
pistons route,=C2=A0 consider having the pistons made with a shorter compre=
ssion height than stock, and longer rods to match.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><=
br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Jason<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"a=
uto"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Sc=
ott Janzen via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_bla=
nk">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_q=
uote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,2=
04);padding-left:1ex"><div>I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nit=
rided, with a vibration damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consis=
tently.=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m not sure you need billet on a GT6.=C2=A0 Never ha=
d a bottom end failure.<div>Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny b=
olts that need to be torqued by stretch gauge.=C2=A0 If you use the wrong l=
ube on them you can overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost abo=
ut $40 each (ask me how I know).</div><div>Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good =
luck with Wiseco making them for me - reasonable price, good specs, will ma=
ke them any way you want them.<br><div><br><div>On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM=
, McKearn McKearn via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"=
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br><d=
iv><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi all.<div>=C2=A0Am looking for info on GT6 billet cra=
nkshafts.=C2=A0 Also looking for opinions on connecting rods and forged pis=
tons.=C2=A0 Starting with the bottom end this time..</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Thanks . P.J.</div></div>
_______________________________________________<br><a href=3D"mailto:fot@au=
tox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a><b=
r><br><a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_b=
lank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.te=
am.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.ne=
t/donate.html</a><br>Archive: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=
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---

From: Scott Janzen via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2021 10:54:32 -0500

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Also, going back to the TR6 vs GT6 design, they both used the same =
connecting rods to save money.  They also essentially have the same =
block (same dimensions, anyway, though the TR6 block is heavier and has =
bulges on the manifold side). Because the TR6 has a stroker crank, the =
same pistons as the GT6 would end up colliding with the head. So, they =
raised the wrist pin height on the TR6 pistons to adjust for the stroke =
difference. =20
Jason is right on the advantages.  Piston cost should be the same - not =
sure if rods will cost more as they may be truly custom, versus what=E2=80=
=99s available for these engines. Maybe it=E2=80=99s worth it?

On Dec 6, 2021, at 10:38 AM, Jason Sukey via Fot <[email-masked]> =
wrote:

Hi PJ,
         In theory, the closer the wrist pin is to the top of the =
piston, the more stable the piston is in the bore; the rings will seal =
better.  And the piston can be shorter with less mass.

Longer rods lead to less thrust loading of the piston against the =
cylinder wall.  Less friction for more power and less wear.=20

There's also the argument of rod length to stroke ratio, but I doubt we =
are making enough change here to count this as a benefit.

I can't say exactly how much power it's really worth, .... but if you =
are ordering custom pistons and rods anyways, it doesn't add any cost to =
make them "better".

Jason

On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 10:32 AM McKearn McKearn <[email-masked] =
Can you explaine the longer rods and TR6 pistons to me please?
                            Thanks. P.J.

On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot <[email-masked] =
You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 =
but what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons=20
Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under

Sent from my iPad

> On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot <[email-masked] =
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced =
and nitrided, but with a stock "damper".  No issues reving safely north =
of 7,000.  Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for =
high rpm.
>=20
> I have Pauter rods,  a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger =
bolts.   (5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly)=20
>=20
> I'm running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone =
out of business.
>=20
> If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons route,  consider =
having the pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, =
and longer rods to match.
>=20
> Jason
>=20
> On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <[email-masked] =
> I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a =
vibration damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently.  =
I=E2=80=99m not sure you need billet on a GT6.  Never had a bottom end =
failure.
> Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need to be =
torqued by stretch gauge.  If you use the wrong lube on them you can =
overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (ask =
me how I know).
> Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - =
reasonable price, good specs, will make them any way you want them.
>=20
> On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot =
>=20
> Hi all.
>  Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshafts.  Also looking for =
opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons.  Starting with the =
bottom end this time..
> http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/>
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive> =
http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot>
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>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
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> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive> =
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>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html =
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">Also,=
 going back to the TR6 vs GT6 design, they both used the same connecting =
rods to save money. &nbsp;They also essentially have the same block =
(same dimensions, anyway, though the TR6 block is heavier and has bulges =
on the manifold side). Because the TR6 has a stroker crank, the same =
pistons as the GT6 would end up colliding with the head. So, they raised =
the wrist pin height on the TR6 pistons to adjust for the stroke =
difference. &nbsp;<div class=3D"">Jason is right on the advantages. =
&nbsp;Piston cost should be the same - not sure if rods will cost more =
as they may be truly custom, versus what=E2=80=99s available for these =
engines. Maybe it=E2=80=99s worth it?<br class=3D""><div><br =
class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Dec 6, 2021, at 10:38 AM, Jason Sukey via =
Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"">Hi PJ,<div class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;In =
theory, the closer the wrist pin is to the top of the piston, the more =
stable the piston is in the bore; the rings will seal better.&nbsp; And =
the piston can be shorter with less mass.</div><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Longer rods =
lead to less thrust loading of the piston against the cylinder =
wall.&nbsp; Less friction for more power and less wear.&nbsp;</div><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">There's =
also the argument of rod length to stroke ratio, but I doubt we are =
making enough change here to count this as a benefit.</div><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D"">I can't say exactly how much power it's really worth, .... =
but if you are ordering custom pistons and rods anyways, it doesn't add =
any cost to make them "better".</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Jason</div></div><br class=3D""><div =
class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec =
6, 2021 at 10:32 AM McKearn McKearn &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:<br class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">Can you =
explaine the longer rods and TR6 pistons to me please?<div =
class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; =
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Thanks. P.J.</div></div><br =
class=3D""><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br =
class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">You =
don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 but =
what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 =
pistons&nbsp;<div class=3D"">Geoff Byrne , TR racer down under<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">Sent from my =
iPad</div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D""><br class=3D""><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D"">On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason Sukey via Fot =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">One more vote for a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is =
balanced and nitrided, but with a stock "damper".&nbsp; No issues reving =
safely north of 7,000.&nbsp; Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings =
is a must for high rpm.</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">I have Pauter rods,&nbsp; =
a little heavier than Carillo's, but have larger bolts.&nbsp; =
&nbsp;(5/16" vs 1/4" if I remember correctly)&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"auto"=
 class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">I'm =
running Venolia forged pistons, they work well but have since gone out =
of business.</div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons =
route,&nbsp; consider having the pistons made with a shorter compression =
height than stock, and longer rods to match.</div><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Jason<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott =
Janzen via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank"=
 class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br =
class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px =
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid =
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div class=3D"">I run a stock crank, =
crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibration damper - no problem =
revving into the sevens, consistently.&nbsp; I=E2=80=99m not sure you =
need billet on a GT6.&nbsp; Never had a bottom end failure.<div =
class=3D"">Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts that need =
to be torqued by stretch gauge.&nbsp; If you use the wrong lube on them =
you can overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 =
each (ask me how I know).</div><div class=3D"">Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve =
had good luck with Wiseco making them for me - reasonable price, good =
specs, will make them any way you want them.<br class=3D""><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, =
McKearn McKearn via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt;=
 wrote:</div><br class=3D""><div class=3D""><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"">Hi=
 all.<div class=3D"">&nbsp;Am looking for info on GT6 billet =
crankshafts.&nbsp; Also looking for opinions on connecting rods and =
forged pistons.&nbsp; Starting with the bottom end this time..</div><div =
class=3D"">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; =
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Thanks . =
P.J.</div></div>
_______________________________________________<br class=3D""><a =
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From: McKearn McKearn via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 2021 10:12:20 -0600

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Thanks. That makes sense now ..

On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 9:38 AM Jason Sukey <[email-masked]> wrote:

> the more stable the piston is in the bore; the rings will seal better.  A=
nd
> Longer rods lead to less thrust loading of the piston against the cylinde=
r
> There's also the argument of rod length to stroke ratio, but I doubt we
>>> You don=E2=80=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to =
8 but
>>> what you do need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons
>>> 7,000.  Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high =
rpm.
>>> the pistons made with a shorter compression height than stock, and long=
er
>>>> I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, with a vibratio=
n
>>>> damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently.  I=E2=80=99=
m not sure
>>>> overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 each (as=
k me
>>>> how I know).
>>>> Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good luck with Wiseco making them for me -
>>>> On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKearn McKearn via Fot <
>>>> [email-masked]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi all.
>>>> opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons.  Starting with the bot=
tom
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage
>>>> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
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t
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks. That makes sense now ..</div><div dir=3D"ltr"></di=
v><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On M=
on, Dec 6, 2021 at 9:38 AM Jason Sukey &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
om" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote =
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px sol=
id rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Hi PJ,<div>=C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0In theory, the closer the wrist pin is to the to=
p of the piston, the more stable the piston is in the bore; the rings will =
seal better.=C2=A0 And the piston can be shorter with less mass.</div><div =
dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Longer rods lead to less thrust lo=
ading of the piston against the cylinder wall.=C2=A0 Less friction for more=
 power and less wear.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div>There&#39=
;s also the argument of rod length to stroke ratio, but I doubt we are maki=
ng enough change here to count this as a benefit.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><b=
r></div><div dir=3D"auto">I can&#39;t say exactly how much power it&#39;s r=
eally worth, .... but if you are ordering custom pistons and rods anyways, =
it doesn&#39;t add any cost to make them &quot;better&quot;.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div>Jason</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 6, 2021 at 10:32 AM McKearn=
 McKearn &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">mckear=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" styl=
e=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);paddin=
g-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Can you explaine the longer rods and TR6 pisto=
ns to me please?<div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Thanks. P.J.</div></div><br><=
div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec=
 6, 2021 at 12:51 AM Geoff Byrne via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
am.net" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><block=
quote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1=
px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">You don=E2=80=
=99t need a billet crank in the 2litre motor mine revs to 8 but what you do=
 need are 9 mm longer rods and then use TR 6 pistons=C2=A0<div>Geoff Byrne =
, TR racer down under<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div d=
ir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On 6 Dec 2021, at 2:41 pm, Jason S=
ukey via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">fo=
[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=
=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"auto"><div>One more vote fo=
r a properly prepared stock crank. Mine is balanced and nitrided, but with =
a stock &quot;damper&quot;.=C2=A0 No issues reving safely north of 7,000.=
=C2=A0 Auxiliary oiling to the front main bearings is a must for high rpm.<=
/div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I have Pauter rods,=C2=
=A0 a little heavier than Carillo&#39;s, but have larger bolts.=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0(5/16&quot; vs 1/4&quot; if I remember correctly)=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D=
"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I&#39;m running Venolia forged pistons, =
they work well but have since gone out of business.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
<br></div><div dir=3D"auto">If you are going the custom rods/custom pistons=
 route,=C2=A0 consider having the pistons made with a shorter compression h=
eight than stock, and longer rods to match.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></di=
v><div dir=3D"auto">Jason<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto"><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 5, 2021, 10:25 PM Scott Jan=
zen via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank">fot=
@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" s=
tyle=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);pad=
ding-left:1ex"><div>I run a stock crank, crack tested, balanced, nitrided, =
with a vibration damper - no problem revving into the sevens, consistently.=
=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m not sure you need billet on a GT6.=C2=A0 Never had a bot=
tom end failure.<div>Rods - Carillo - only drawback is little tiny bolts th=
at need to be torqued by stretch gauge.=C2=A0 If you use the wrong lube on =
them you can overtorque them easily, and the little buggers cost about $40 =
each (ask me how I know).</div><div>Pistons - I=E2=80=99ve had good luck wi=
th Wiseco making them for me - reasonable price, good specs, will make them=
 any way you want them.<br><div><br><div>On Dec 5, 2021, at 10:18 PM, McKea=
rn McKearn via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" rel=3D"norefer=
rer" target=3D"_blank">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br><div><div=
 dir=3D"ltr">Hi all.<div>=C2=A0Am looking for info on GT6 billet crankshaft=
s.=C2=A0 Also looking for opinions on connecting rods and forged pistons.=
=C2=A0 Starting with the bottom end this time..</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0Thanks . P.J.</div></div>
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