Subject: Re: [Fot] Pinion bearing on GT6

From: Chip Collingwood via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 19 May 2021 12:24:33 -0400

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Yes, the front flange holds the pinion bearings tight.
Did you mark the nut and shaft before removing them and the flange. If not
then it will be difficult to get the proper pinion pre-load and depth.

Chip

On Wed, May 19, 2021, 12:09 PM Ronnie Babbitt via Fot <[email-masked]>
wrote:

> I had planned to change the pinion seals on my diff while I have it out. I
> removed the front support bracket and removed the nut along with the front
> pinion seal. With the seal out of the case I have this movement. When
> assembled,I did not notice any movement. Is this normal movement with no
> seal in place?  Are the pinion bearings cone shaped? If so would this allow
> for movement?
>
> The gear set looks absolutely remarkablea, no scoring or wear. The bearing
> spins freely. This is a GT6/ Late Spit diff used in my sports six.
>
> Ronnie_______________________________________________
> [email-masked]
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/[email-masked]
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"auto">Yes, the front flange holds the pinion bearings tight.<di=
v dir=3D"auto">Did you mark the nut and shaft before removing them and the =
flange. If not then it will be difficult to get the proper pinion pre-load =
and depth.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Chip</div></d=
iv><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On =
Wed, May 19, 2021, 12:09 PM Ronnie Babbitt via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fo=
[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote cl=
ass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;p=
adding-left:1ex">I had planned to change the pinion seals on my diff while =
I have it out. I removed the front support bracket and removed the nut alon=
g with the front pinion seal. With the seal out of the case I have this mov=
ement. When assembled,I did not notice any movement. Is this normal movemen=
t with no seal in place?=C2=A0 Are the pinion bearings cone shaped? If so w=
ould this allow for movement? <br>
<br>
The gear set looks absolutely remarkablea, no scoring or wear. The bearing =
spins freely. This is a GT6/ Late Spit diff used in my sports six. <br>
<br>
Ronnie_______________________________________________<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">=
[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=
=3D"_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br>
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errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer norefe=
rrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a> <a href=3D"http:/=
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r>
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</blockquote></div>

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_______________________________________________
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From: Scott Janzen via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 19 May 2021 14:01:02 -0400

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I would add that some of these diffs used a crushable spacer, I=E2=80=99m =
told, rather than a hard spacer and shims. In that case, I=E2=80=99m not =
sure you can simply re-tighten the nut.  Yes, these are tapered bearings =
with a spacer in between.
Here=E2=80=99s some instructions that summarize this better than I can.  =
If you have a nut with a cotter pin, it would seem you are in luck.

The pinion seal gets a bit more involved on later diff units; if yours =
has a castle nut and cotter pin holding the flange to the front of the =
pinion you can just take it off, remove the flange and swap out the =
seals re-torque the nut to the work shop manual spec.=20
If instead you find a cap similar to a front wheel bearing cap and =
inside that a nylock nut you must be very careful to mark the shaft the =
flange and the nut so on reassembly you can get them back in EXACTLY the =
same relative positions; THIS INCLUDES TAKING A COUNT OF EXACTLY HOW =
MANY TURNS THE NUT TAKES. For example: you turn the nut 12 turns and =
three flats to get it off, then you must turn it twelve turns and three =
flats putting it on. Your marks should now line up. If they don't quite =
line up you can tweak the nut a bit to bring them into line. If they =
have gone beyond DON'T back off. The reason for this fussiness is that =
the pinion preload is set by a crush sleeve. If you get back to the same =
place the preload is not changed. If you go farther you change the =
preload, but in a worn unit it probably won't be off much it is only a =
fraction of a flat we're talking about. If you back off you release the =
preload.=20

On May 19, 2021, at 12:24 PM, Chip Collingwood via Fot =
<[email-masked]> wrote:

Yes, the front flange holds the pinion bearings tight.
Did you mark the nut and shaft before removing them and the flange. If =
not then it will be difficult to get the proper pinion pre-load and =
depth.

Chip

On Wed, May 19, 2021, 12:09 PM Ronnie Babbitt via Fot =
I had planned to change the pinion seals on my diff while I have it out. =
I removed the front support bracket and removed the nut along with the =
front pinion seal. With the seal out of the case I have this movement. =
When assembled,I did not notice any movement. Is this normal movement =
with no seal in place?  Are the pinion bearings cone shaped? If so would =
this allow for movement?=20

The gear set looks absolutely remarkablea, no scoring or wear. The =
bearing spins freely. This is a GT6/ Late Spit diff used in my sports =
six.=20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">I =
would add that some of these diffs used a crushable spacer, I=E2=80=99m =
told, rather than a hard spacer and shims. In that case, I=E2=80=99m not =
sure you can simply re-tighten the nut. &nbsp;Yes, these are tapered =
bearings with a spacer in between.<div class=3D"">Here=E2=80=99s some =
instructions that summarize this better than I can. &nbsp;If you have a =
nut with a cotter pin, it would seem you are in luck.</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><span =
style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; =
background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" class=3D"">The pinion seal gets a =
bit more involved on later diff units; if yours has a castle nut and =
cotter pin holding the flange to the front of the pinion you can just =
take it off, remove the flange and swap out the seals re-torque the nut =
to the work shop manual spec.&nbsp;</span><br style=3D"clear: both; =
font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; =
font-size: 14px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" class=3D"">If =
instead you find a cap similar to a front wheel bearing cap and inside =
that a nylock nut you must be very careful to mark the shaft the flange =
and the nut so on reassembly you can get them back in EXACTLY the same =
relative positions; THIS INCLUDES TAKING A COUNT OF EXACTLY HOW MANY =
TURNS THE NUT TAKES. For example: you turn the nut 12 turns and three =
flats to get it off, then you must turn it twelve turns and three flats =
putting it on. Your marks should now line up. If they don't quite line =
up you can tweak the nut a bit to bring them into line. If they have =
gone beyond DON'T back off. The reason for this fussiness is that the =
pinion preload is set by a crush sleeve. If you get back to the same =
place the preload is not changed. If you go farther you change the =
preload, but in a worn unit it probably won't be off much it is only a =
fraction of a flat we're talking about. If you back off you release the =
preload.&nbsp;</span><br class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><div class=3D"">On=
 May 19, 2021, at 12:24 PM, Chip Collingwood via Fot &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div =
dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Yes, the front flange holds the pinion bearings =
tight.<div dir=3D"auto" class=3D"">Did you mark the nut and shaft before =
removing them and the flange. If not then it will be difficult to get =
the proper pinion pre-load and depth.</div><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div dir=3D"auto" =
class=3D"">Chip</div></div><br class=3D""><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, May 19, 2021, 12:09 PM Ronnie =
Babbitt via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br =
class=3D""></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 =
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I had planned to =
change the pinion seals on my diff while I have it out. I removed the =
front support bracket and removed the nut along with the front pinion =
seal. With the seal out of the case I have this movement. When =
assembled,I did not notice any movement. Is this normal movement with no =
seal in place?&nbsp; Are the pinion bearings cone shaped? If so would =
this allow for movement? <br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
The gear set looks absolutely remarkablea, no scoring or wear. The =
bearing spins freely. This is a GT6/ Late Spit diff used in my sports =
six. <br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
Ronnie_______________________________________________<br class=3D"">
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer"=
 class=3D"">[email-masked]</a><br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com/" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" =
target=3D"_blank" class=3D"">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br class=3D"">
Archive: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer =
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank" class=3D"">http://autox.team.net/archive</a>=
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class=3D"">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chip@theukmotorsports=
.com</a><br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
<br class=3D"">
</blockquote></div>
_______________________________________________<br class=3D""><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a><br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">http://www.fot-racing.com<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<br class=3D"">Archive: =
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From: fubog1 via Fot <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 19 May 2021 19:24:27 +0000 (UTC)

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 As already mentioned, this is super-critical, you need the pinion preload.=
Without it the gears will be out of mesh & won't last, too much will kill t=
he bearings .If it's a spacer & shims, just torque it all back down and you=
're good.If collapsible sleeve, you're screwed, unless you get very lucky.I=
f you have to go into into it I advise considering fitting a solid spacer w=
/shims, it's a much better setup.
Glen Efinger
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Ronnie Babbitt via Fot <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Sent: Wed, May 19, 2021 10:32 am
Subject: [Fot] Pinion bearing on GT6

I had planned to change the pinion seals on my diff while I have it out. I =
removed the front support bracket and removed the nut along with the front =
pinion seal. With the seal out of the case I have this movement. When assem=
bled,I did not notice any movement. Is this normal movement with no seal in=
 place?=C2=A0 Are the pinion bearings cone shaped? If so would this allow f=
or movement?=20

The gear set looks absolutely remarkablea, no scoring or wear. The bearing =
spins freely. This is a GT6/ Late Spit diff used in my sports six.=20

m

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<div style="color:black;font: 10pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size="2">As already mentioned, this is super-critical, you need the pinion preload.</font></div>

<div><font size="2">Without it the gears will be out of mesh &amp; won't last, too much will kill the bearings .</font></div>

<div><font size="2">If it's a spacer &amp; shims, just torque it all back down and you're good.</font></div>

<div><font size="2">If collapsible sleeve, you're screwed, unless you get very lucky.</font></div>

<div><font size="2">If you have to go into into it I advise considering fitting a solid spacer w/shims, it's a much better setup.</font></div>

<div><font size="2"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size="2">Glen Efinger</font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font size="2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Ronnie Babbitt via Fot &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: [email-masked]<br>
Sent: Wed, May 19, 2021 10:32 am<br>
Subject: [Fot] Pinion bearing on GT6<br>
<br>

<div dir="ltr">I had planned to change the pinion seals on my diff while I have it out. I removed the front support bracket and removed the nut along with the front pinion seal. With the seal out of the case I have this movement. When assembled,I did not notice any movement. Is this normal movement with no seal in place?&nbsp; Are the pinion bearings cone shaped? If so would this allow for movement? <br>
</div>

<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir="ltr">The gear set looks absolutely remarkablea, no scoring or wear. The bearing spins freely. This is a GT6/ Late Spit diff used in my sports six. <br>
</div>
<br>
Ronnie_______________________________________________<br>
<a ymailto="mailto:[email-masked]" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.fot-racing.com/" target="_blank">http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br>
<br>
Archive: <a href="http://autox.team.net/archive" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive </a><a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot</a><br>
<br>
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