From brakey6666 at gmail.com Wed Aug 1 11:02:48 2018 From: brakey6666 at gmail.com (Glenn Franco) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 13:02:48 -0400 Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma Looking for some help from the wisdom of the FOT List. I have rebuilt a number of Triumph A-type overdrive transmissions in the last few months but have one that is giving me problems. The overdrive functions OK when applied and will go into overdrive at a steady cruising speed. The problem is when under load accelerating up a hill or to pick up speed it softly drops out. When you lift throttle it will go back in. We put a 500 psi gauge on the operating valve thinking we were losing oil pressure when it drops out of overdrive. Gauge reading shows a pretty steady 340 psi reading. When it drops out the gauge doesn't drop out but remains steady. 340 psi is lower than the expected 400 - 500psi. Does that indicate oil pump replacement is necessary? The engine rpm was approximately 2500-3000 rpm. Since it softly drops out of overdrive I'm thinking a slipping overrunning clutch?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 74 TR6 , TR250, MG TC, BMW e10 2002 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Aug 1 14:59:44 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 16:59:44 -0400 Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma References: I would be looking for a bleed somewhere & check the pump, valves, etc, and try to get the pressure up a bit. Is it a big or small piston A? Does the accumulator hold "rest" pressure for some time? Glen (w/1 n) -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco via Fot To: FOT list Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2018 2:18 pm Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma Looking for some help from the wisdom of the FOT List. I have rebuilt a number of Triumph A-type overdrive transmissions in the last few months but have one that is giving me problems. The overdrive functions OK when applied and will go into overdrive at a steady cruising speed. The problem is when under load accelerating up a hill or to pick up speed it softly drops out. When you lift throttle it will go back in. We put a 500 psi gauge on the operating valve thinking we were losing oil pressure when it drops out of overdrive. Gauge reading shows a pretty steady 340 psi reading. When it drops out the gauge doesn't drop out but remains steady. 340 psi is lower than the expected 400 - 500psi. Does that indicate oil pump replacement is necessary? The engine rpm was approximately 2500-3000 rpm. Since it softly drops out of overdrive I'm thinking a slipping overrunning clutch?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 74 TR6 , TR250, MG TC, BMW e10 2002 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cartravel at pobox.com Wed Aug 1 17:44:52 2018 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 18:44:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma References: I don't think the unidirectional (overrun) clutch can slip. It can only break and you would know it. I'd guess it is just slipping. 350 is about right for a large accumulator model, but you need about 450 for a small accumulator. Low pressure is usually just spring fatigue. That can be fixed by shimming the spring with a couple of hardware store washers. I'd get the pressure up to spec first before anything else. I suppose the type of oil might cause slipping too. ?- Larry Young On 8/1/2018 12:02 PM, Glenn Franco via Fot wrote: > Looking for some help from the wisdom of the FOT List. > > I have rebuilt a number of Triumph A-type overdrive transmissions in > the last few months but have one that is giving me problems. > > The overdrive functions OK when applied and will go into overdrive at > a steady cruising speed. > > The problem is when under load accelerating up a hill or to pick up > speed it softly drops out. When you lift throttle it will go back in. > > We put a 500 psi gauge on the operating valve thinking we were losing > oil pressure when it drops out of overdrive. Gauge reading shows a > pretty steady 340 psi reading. When it drops out the gauge doesn't > drop out but remains steady. > > 340 psi is lower than the expected 400 - 500psi. Does that indicate > oil pump replacement is necessary? The engine rpm was approximately > 2500-3000 rpm. > > Since it softly drops out of overdrive I'm thinking a slipping > overrunning clutch?? > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks in advance > > Glenn Franco > > 74 TR6 , TR250, MG TC, BMW e10 2002 > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mhado at att.net Wed Aug 1 21:05:12 2018 From: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 22:05:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma References: <164f74a11f7-c8b-ed70@webjas-vac227.srv.aolmail.net> Also, check the eight O.D. springs to make sure they are the correct ones and in the right location. If a ?long? one is installed where a ?short? one should be, the coil may bind before the clutch has moved the full distance and will slip or not engage at all. Mike From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fubog1 via Fot Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2018 4:00 PM To: brakey6666 at gmail.com; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma I would be looking for a bleed somewhere & check the pump, valves, etc, and try to get the pressure up a bit. Is it a big or small piston A? Does the accumulator hold "rest" pressure for some time? Glen (w/1 n) -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco via Fot To: FOT list Sent: Wed, Aug 1, 2018 2:18 pm Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma Looking for some help from the wisdom of the FOT List. I have rebuilt a number of Triumph A-type overdrive transmissions in the last few months but have one that is giving me problems. The overdrive functions OK when applied and will go into overdrive at a steady cruising speed. The problem is when under load accelerating up a hill or to pick up speed it softly drops out. When you lift throttle it will go back in. We put a 500 psi gauge on the operating valve thinking we were losing oil pressure when it drops out of overdrive. Gauge reading shows a pretty steady 340 psi reading. When it drops out the gauge doesn't drop out but remains steady. 340 psi is lower than the expected 400 - 500psi. Does that indicate oil pump replacement is necessary? The engine rpm was approximately 2500-3000 rpm. Since it softly drops out of overdrive I'm thinking a slipping overrunning clutch?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 74 TR6 , TR250, MG TC, BMW e10 2002 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Wed Aug 1 22:49:48 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 21:49:48 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT Nomination - Rodney Earwood Hello Amici, I would like to nominate Rodney Earwood to our group. He has recently purchased a 1962 G Production Spitfire MkI from Florida. The car has racing history back to 1978 mostly in the Midwest at Mid-Ohio and Road America. Rodney lives 15 minutes from Road Atlanta and intends to race the car in SVRA and HSR events after some modifications to help him fit in the car...this I am very familiar with... Rodney has a variety of racing experiences; go karts, motocross, some circle track and recently running enduros in Datsun sedans. Rodney's contact Email is: proappliance at yahoo.com Gotta keep those Spitfire guys coming...do I have a second? Cheers, *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Aug 2 05:57:41 2018 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 11:57:41 +0000 Subject: [Fot] September VRG event at PittRace Just a FYI for anybody attending the VRG event at PittRace in September and wanting electric. A couple of us have snagged power spots in the South paddock. You have to call the track directly and reserve them. It was like $50/$75 ish for the weekend if I remember correctly. Its kind of nice in the South paddock, hardly any traffic and more low keyed. Farther from the bathrooms/showers though. When I called there were still spots available. Marty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Thu Aug 2 06:15:57 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 08:15:57 -0400 Subject: [Fot] FOT Nomination - Rodney Earwood References: I'll second. Welcome aboard Rodney. Cheers, Bill On 8/2/2018 12:49 AM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Hello Amici, > > I would like to nominate Rodney Earwood to our group. > > He has recently purchased a 1962 G Production Spitfire MkI from > Florida. The car has racing history back to 1978 mostly in the Midwest > at Mid-Ohio and Road America. > > Rodney lives 15 minutes from Road Atlanta and intends to race the car > in SVRA and HSR events after some modifications to help him fit in the > car...this I am very familiar with... > > Rodney has a variety of racing experiences; go karts, motocross, some > circle track and recently running enduros in Datsun sedans. > > Rodney's contact Email is: proappliance at yahoo.com > > Gotta keep those Spitfire guys coming...do I have a second? > > Cheers, > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 2 06:54:12 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2018 12:54:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] FOT Nomination - Rodney Earwood References: SECOND Welcome, Rodney! Regards,Bob Lang On Thursday, August 2, 2018, 6:17:12 AM EDT, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Hello Amici, I would like to nominate Rodney Earwood to our group. He has recently purchased a 1962 G Production Spitfire MkI from Florida. The car has racing history back to 1978 mostly in the Midwest at Mid-Ohio and Road America. Rodney lives 15 minutes from Road Atlanta and intends to race the car in SVRA and HSR events after some modifications to help him fit in the car...this I am very familiar with... Rodney has a variety of racing experiences; go karts, motocross, some circle track and recently running enduros in Datsun sedans. Rodney's contact Email is:?proappliance at yahoo.com Gotta keep those Spitfire guys coming...do I have a second? Cheers, Brad EellsChino CA#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR41965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Thu Aug 2 13:13:13 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2018 15:13:13 -0400 Subject: [Fot] September VRG event at PittRace References: there are also spots in the north paddock, along the pit road you take when you return from the track, on the right against spectator hill. On Aug 2, 2018, at 7:57 AM, marty via Fot wrote: Just a FYI for anybody attending the VRG event at PittRace in September and wanting electric. A couple of us have snagged power spots in the South paddock. You have to call the track directly and reserve them. It was like $50/$75 ish for the weekend if I remember correctly. Its kind of nice in the South paddock, hardly any traffic and more low keyed. Farther from the bathrooms/showers though. When I called there were still spots available. Marty _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From my71spit13 at yahoo.com Sun Aug 5 17:57:40 2018 From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2018 23:57:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] KCup photos hi rez References: <1573959677.2424113.1533513460951.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Attached is a link to my Dropbox album with some hi rez photos of the Kastner Cup 2018. I'll be adding more soon. I have a total of 2770 photos from the 2 days.? If you see any that you want, I can send them to you along with more. I accept donations... :-) https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yvw1t1cexr118y7/AADi8etMkMs3mOQ4I0zkIjEga?dl=0 Shawn Frank Spitfire & GT6 Magazine, Editor Continued Legacy, Owner North American Triumphs, Admin Friends of Triumph, NASS#746, VTR#94692, Iowa BCC Drive Away Cancer Iowa, driver 515-339-4228 '71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV "Gertrude"'63 Triumph Spitfire4 MK1 "Lucy"'72 Triumph GT6 MK3 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Aug 6 11:09:25 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2018 13:09:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] KCup photos hi rez References: <1573959677.2424113.1533513460951.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1573959677.2424113.1533513460951@mail.yahoo.com> Good Stuff. Peg Kastner still makes a stunning Pit Bunny in the Awards photos. Kas has often been quoted as saying, "I always liked the paint and body work." Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Shawn Frank via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Sun, Aug 5, 2018 10:17 pm Subject: [Fot] KCup photos hi rez Attached is a link to my Dropbox album with some hi rez photos of the Kastner Cup 2018. I'll be adding more soon. I have a total of 2770 photos from the 2 days. If you see any that you want, I can send them to you along with more. I accept donations... :-) https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yvw1t1cexr118y7/AADi8etMkMs3mOQ4I0zkIjEga?dl=0 Shawn Frank Spitfire & GT6 Magazine, Editor Continued Legacy, Owner North American Triumphs, Admin Friends of Triumph, NASS#746, VTR#94692, Iowa BCC Drive Away Cancer Iowa, driver 515-339-4228 '71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV "Gertrude" '63 Triumph Spitfire4 MK1 "Lucy" '72 Triumph GT6 MK3 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Wed Aug 8 13:16:01 2018 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2018 14:16:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] MeWe Vintage Triumph page. Although I don?t get tired of seeing pictures of every Ferrari and Cobra ever raced I do wonder why more old Triumph racing pictures don?t show up on social media. A lot of Triumph racers must have pictures of their current and former Triumph race cars in files on their computers. I put a page on MeWe to upload interesting old racing photos of Triumphs. Let?s get the historic Triumph racing photos out of the family archives and share them with your racing buddies. I?ve set up this page on MeWe It requires regular postings to stay active and I don?t have enough pictures to keep it going. Post yours ! https://mewe.com/join/vintage_triumph_cars Sent from my iPhone From billdentin at aol.com Wed Aug 8 17:35:13 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2018 19:35:13 -0400 Subject: [Fot] MeWe Vintage Triumph page. References: <292DC6B6-4B3B-450E-8F3C-176D2743259A@gmail.com> Bob... Doesn't the FOT already have such a page. They used to. Can it be linked? I don't know what MeWe is. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Wednesday, August 8, 2018, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: Although I don?t get tired of seeing pictures of every Ferrari and Cobra ever raced I do wonder why more old Triumph racing pictures don?t show up on social media. A lot of Triumph racers must have pictures of their current and former Triumph race cars in files on their computers. I put a page on MeWe to upload interesting old racing photos of Triumphs. Let?s get the historic Triumph racing photos out of the family archives and share them with your racing buddies. I?ve set up this page on MeWe It requires regular postings to stay active and I don?t have enough pictures to keep it going. Post yours ! https://mewe.com/join/vintage_triumph_cars Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Thu Aug 9 08:40:07 2018 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2018 09:40:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR3 door hinges A M I C I Does anyone have extra TR3 door hinges to sell? Condition, and early/late probably does not matter. Thanks Dennis -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Thu Aug 9 15:33:46 2018 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2018 23:33:46 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Fot] TR3 door hinges References: <20180809155506.70A6D25891C6@autox.team.net> I have 4 hinges from my former TR3 racecar ( total loss in 2014 during the rolling start of a race at the Zandvoort circuit), but I made them lower and shorter and also much thinner, with only 2 bolts instead of 3 : all to save weight! Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "fot" Verzonden: Donderdag 9 augustus 2018 16:40:07 Onderwerp: [Fot] TR3 door hinges A M I C I Does anyone have extra TR3 door hinges to sell? Condition, and early/late probably does not matter. Thanks Dennis _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nicholsondustin at yahoo.com Sat Aug 11 10:36:27 2018 From: nicholsondustin at yahoo.com (dustin nicholson) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 11:36:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Clutch disk for HVDA 5 speed Is anybody racing with the Toyota five speed? What clutch disk are you using? Asking for friend who has a hot street TR6 with the 5 speed and has worn out the disk provided by Herman. He wants to replace with an upgraded disk. Moss is carrying on the HVDA conversion but he?s been told they will only be offering one clutch disk option which appears to be street grade. I believe Herman offered an upgrade, anyone know what it was or where to get it? Dusty Nicholson 1971 FP Spitfire #4 Sent from my iPhone From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Sat Aug 11 17:52:01 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2018 19:52:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Clutch disk for HVDA 5 speed References: <9A4BC574-0D6C-4430-9925-9F802824E820@yahoo.com> McLeod? pn270917, Disc, organic 8.5" 1-1/8, ought to do it. Came with my Eaglegate conversion. Tell them that if they're making one for you, make one for me too. Engine's out and may as well put in a new clutch too. www.mcleodracing.com NFI Cheers, Bill On 8/11/2018 12:36 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: > Is anybody racing with the Toyota five speed? What clutch disk are you using? > > Asking for friend who has a hot street TR6 with the 5 speed and has worn out the disk provided by Herman. He wants to replace with an upgraded disk. Moss is carrying on the HVDA conversion but he?s been told they will only be offering one clutch disk option which appears to be street grade. I believe Herman offered an upgrade, anyone know what it was or where to get it? > > Dusty Nicholson > 1971 FP Spitfire #4 > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Sun Aug 12 18:29:58 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2018 20:29:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Clutch disk for HVDA 5 speed References: <9A4BC574-0D6C-4430-9925-9F802824E820@yahoo.com> <6d436332-1691-b2d9-9b69-7cd86fef84ee@verizon.net> After further review, to use a football phrase,? the clutch disc is 8 1/2? x 1 1/8 shaft and 21 splines. That was on the box and I just measured and counted. PN on the box is 270917. Hope this helps. Cheers, Bill On 8/11/2018 7:52 PM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: > McLeod pn270917, Disc, organic 8.5" 1-1/8, ought to do it. Came with > my Eaglegate conversion. > > Tell them that if they're making one for you, make one for me too. > Engine's out and may as well put in a new clutch too. > > www.mcleodracing.com > > NFI > > Cheers, Bill > > > On 8/11/2018 12:36 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: >> Is anybody racing with the Toyota five speed? What clutch disk are >> you using? >> >> Asking for friend who has a hot street TR6 with the 5 speed and has >> worn out the disk provided by Herman. He wants to replace with an >> upgraded disk. Moss is carrying on the HVDA conversion but he?s been >> told they will only be offering one clutch disk option which appears >> to be street grade. I believe Herman offered an upgrade, anyone know >> what it was or where to get it? >> >> Dusty Nicholson >> 1971 FP Spitfire #4 >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > From nicholsondustin at yahoo.com Sun Aug 12 19:56:00 2018 From: nicholsondustin at yahoo.com (dustin nicholson) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2018 20:56:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Clutch disk for HVDA 5 speed References: <9A4BC574-0D6C-4430-9925-9F802824E820@yahoo.com> <6d436332-1691-b2d9-9b69-7cd86fef84ee@verizon.net> Thanks for all the replies. On an unrelated note, I?ve recently acquired a used Summers Brothers spit axle that is 1? longer than the corvair axle I was hoping to pair it up with (since I broke the other corvair axle). Am I asking for trouble to run this set up of unequal length axles? Seems the upright on the longer axle will just ?lean in? to reach the leaf spring eye and it might just work. Or should I have the longer axle cut down and new u-joint yoke spline grooves cut? I think you call this racing on a budget. Dusty Nicholson 1971 FP Spitfire #4 Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 12, 2018, at 7:29 PM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: > > After further review, to use a football phrase, the clutch disc is 8 1/2 x 1 1/8 shaft and 21 splines. That was on the box and I just measured and counted. PN on the box is 270917. > > Hope this helps. > > Cheers, Bill > > >> On 8/11/2018 7:52 PM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: >> McLeod pn270917, Disc, organic 8.5" 1-1/8, ought to do it. Came with my Eaglegate conversion. >> >> Tell them that if they're making one for you, make one for me too. Engine's out and may as well put in a new clutch too. >> >> www.mcleodracing.com >> >> NFI >> >> Cheers, Bill >> >> >>> On 8/11/2018 12:36 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: >>> Is anybody racing with the Toyota five speed? What clutch disk are you using? >>> >>> Asking for friend who has a hot street TR6 with the 5 speed and has worn out the disk provided by Herman. He wants to replace with an upgraded disk. Moss is carrying on the HVDA conversion but he?s been told they will only be offering one clutch disk option which appears to be street grade. I believe Herman offered an upgrade, anyone know what it was or where to get it? >>> >>> Dusty Nicholson >>> 1971 FP Spitfire #4 >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/nicholsondustin at yahoo.com > > From alfetta95 at optonline.net Mon Aug 13 07:05:26 2018 From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 09:05:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Race Seat Friends! I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3.? ? What are you using? Thanks Todd Redmond 1958 TR3a From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Aug 13 10:15:13 2018 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 10:15:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Clutch disk for HVDA 5 speed References: <9A4BC574-0D6C-4430-9925-9F802824E820@yahoo.com> <6d436332-1691-b2d9-9b69-7cd86fef84ee@verizon.net> Hi Dusty, I do think you?re asking for, if not trouble, then at least some challenges with unequal length axles. Your swing spring will ?swing? differently with one vertical link essentially being shorter because it ?leans in? at the top. I can?t predict the effect but unless you?re just doing circle track (only left turns) then the transition of the suspension going from left to right turns might get real interesting with not so smooth shifting of weight transfer or a twitch of some kind, or maybe even a sudden jerk. The most obvious effect will be the camber of the real wheels will be different which will put different amounts of tire patch on the pavement resulting in different wear and probably handling. I made my vertical lengths adjustable with a kit from http://www.wolfitt.com/wolfitt_products_1.htm They indicate that very little change (1/4-1/2 inch) in the length of the vertical lengths will change the camber by about 1 degree. I didn?t do the geometry but a vertical link that ?leans in? will be shorter and may give you a bigger change in the camber than you want to run on one wheel. Running different cambers on the rear wheels does not seem like a good idea. De-arching the spring or blocks between the diff and the spring will change camber but it would affect both sides equally. This link explains/shows the effects of those changes and a good visual on the swing spring operation. http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements.htm#rear I would be hesitant to run different length axles as it introduces more variables to an already tricky system. You will go to a lot of work with the backplates, pressing bearings on and off, and other fun activities, I?d hate to see you do all that and be unhappy with the results. I was lucky to find some brand new early Summers Brothers axles and switched them out only to find that the axles that came with the car were some of Kastner?s ?indestructible? axles with the bigger u-joints. If I?d only known I?d have kept them and just changed the u-joints. Oh well they can go on the next car. Good luck, Bud > On Aug 12, 2018, at 7:56 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: > > Thanks for all the replies. > > On an unrelated note, I?ve recently acquired a used Summers Brothers spit axle that is 1? longer than the corvair axle I was hoping to pair it up with (since I broke the other corvair axle). Am I asking for trouble to run this set up of unequal length axles? Seems the upright on the longer axle will just ?lean in? to reach the leaf spring eye and it might just work. Or should I have the longer axle cut down and new u-joint yoke spline grooves cut? > > I think you call this racing on a budget. > > Dusty Nicholson > 1971 FP Spitfire #4 > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 12, 2018, at 7:29 PM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: >> >> After further review, to use a football phrase, the clutch disc is 8 1/2 x 1 1/8 shaft and 21 splines. That was on the box and I just measured and counted. PN on the box is 270917. >> >> Hope this helps. >> >> Cheers, Bill >> >> >>> On 8/11/2018 7:52 PM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: >>> McLeod pn270917, Disc, organic 8.5" 1-1/8, ought to do it. Came with my Eaglegate conversion. >>> >>> Tell them that if they're making one for you, make one for me too. Engine's out and may as well put in a new clutch too. >>> >>> www.mcleodracing.com >>> >>> NFI >>> >>> Cheers, Bill >>> >>> >>>> On 8/11/2018 12:36 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: >>>> Is anybody racing with the Toyota five speed? What clutch disk are you using? >>>> >>>> Asking for friend who has a hot street TR6 with the 5 speed and has worn out the disk provided by Herman. He wants to replace with an upgraded disk. Moss is carrying on the HVDA conversion but he?s been told they will only be offering one clutch disk option which appears to be street grade. I believe Herman offered an upgrade, anyone know what it was or where to get it? >>>> >>>> Dusty Nicholson >>>> 1971 FP Spitfire #4 >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >>>> >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/nicholsondustin at yahoo.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > From vfracing at aol.com Mon Aug 13 12:09:43 2018 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 14:09:43 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> Todd; I use a Cobra Suzuka seat in my TR4A. Very comfortable and good support. Took a lot of doing and building the cage around the seat to make it fit. I tried the Cobra "Vintage" seat as it fit much better in the car, but was too narrow for my butt (34 waist). My son uses an "Upright" Kirkey, leaned back a bit) in his '62 TR4. It's Ok but an upgrade is on his "to do" list. Two things we learned when selecting seats: 1) FIA seats approved for installation with no back support REQUIRE that the mounts supplied by the manufacturer be used in order to not use a back support. 2) After five years, any FIA seat requires a back support whether or not it is approved without a back support when new. So it is best to plan on adding a back support to the seat regardless of rating. (We supported my seat directly from the roll cage on one side) and added a back support. Phil Gott '65 TR4A racer (HRG group 3) vfracing at aol.com -----Original Message----- From: Todd Redmond via Fot To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2018 10:07 am Subject: [Fot] Race Seat Friends!I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. What are you using?ThanksTodd Redmond1958 TR3a_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Mon Aug 13 17:02:20 2018 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2018 16:02:20 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> Hi Todd, I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while wearing your helmet and Hans device. ~STEVE > On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot wrote: > > Friends! > > > I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. > What are you using? > > > Thanks > Todd Redmond > 1958 TR3a > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Aug 13 20:37:35 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 02:37:35 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net>, <4377498E-400F-4EB7-8D7F-5003B0255753@artwithcars.com> I must not have sent to all, but Steve points out the problem of buying an off the shelf seat...as I pointed out, Baker will custom make a seat that fits you, just like they do for the NASCAR guys, I guess the problem is you have to come to their shop in Charlotte; but there must be other shops that do the same thing... find one. Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 13, 2018, at 10:17 PM, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > Hi Todd, > > I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while wearing your helmet and Hans device. > > > ~STEVE > > > >> On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot wrote: >> >> Friends! >> >> >> I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. >> What are you using? >> >> >> Thanks >> Todd Redmond >> 1958 TR3a >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com > > From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Aug 14 09:16:26 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 08:16:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> <4377498E-400F-4EB7-8D7F-5003B0255753@artwithcars.com> Good tips and suggestions, Steve. Todd, when I installed my Kirkey Vintage seat, as Steve suggests, I placed the seat low and wore my helmet to take some measurements. I wanted to be below the top of my roll bar and my bar fits under the factory hard top, so the height limit was known and set. I also modified the seat. I needed arm length but less leg length. When I tilted or reclined the back to a comfortable arm length, the seat bottom reduced leg extension needed for full clutch depression. I cut the seat to get more recline without effecting the bottom and leg position. It was an easy modification. I made a aluminum fill plates and had them welded in place. I also moved the steering wheel closer to the dash to give more arm extension. I spent a lot of time getting it all perfect for me. There are optimal leg and arm positions. Bent arms, never fully extended and when the clutch is fully depressed, your leg should not press on the seat bottom and impede movement, but could lightly touch. I learned this in 1982 when I bought Bob Bondurant's first book of high performance driving. The Kirkey seats come in different widths. Get one that fits relatively snug. Measure yourself in the seated position. If you have to you can send it back until you get the best fit. I thought the Vintage seat looks best without the head rest, but then you have to build a rest into your roll bar. Of course having the head rest extension solves this issue. I like that the Kirkey seats have a snap-in cover and inexpensive. I also added a little lumbar padding under the cover. Dave H. > On August 13, 2018 at 4:02 PM Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > > Hi Todd, > > I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while wearing your helmet and Hans device. > > > ~STEVE > > > > > On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot wrote: > > > > Friends! > > > > > > I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. > > What are you using? > > > > > > Thanks > > Todd Redmond > > 1958 TR3a > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > From billdentin at aol.com Tue Aug 14 13:19:59 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 15:19:59 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Triumph cousins... Amici... I've too much time on my hands these days, and I recently used some to watch some auto-related YouTube stuff on TV. I stumbled upon some old Pathe BMC promo-documentaries from the early 1960s on the development of the MINI. They are called Wizardry on Wheels, Parts ONE, TWO, and THREE. While I don't fit in a MINI very well, I have always been fascinated by them out on the race track. Steven Belfer's Dad, Mike, who was my mentor raced and prep'd them as well as Triumph TRs. He always described them as Giant Killers on any short track. The mechanic in him also offered, "Sadly when anything breaks, they seem to explode like a hand grenade." Anyway, each of these three BMC 'reels' are about ten minutes long, and quite interesting. BMC was going for a family sedan that would carry five people and a bunch of their belongings. The car's performance ability was kind of frosting on the cake, because they quickly became the family's race car as well. Considering the old engine used in a brand new model, this was not a fresh power plant. But where they put the tranny, how they placed the engine, and other chassis mods set auto design on its ear, and was a heavy influence for all the stuff from others that followed. Give it a look. You might find it interesting as well. Bill Dentinger -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Aug 14 13:34:31 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 12:34:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: RE: Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> <4377498E-400F-4EB7-8D7F-5003B0255753@artwithcars.com> <671288474.75027.1534259786671@connect.xfinity.com> <001601d43400$b547c150$1fd743f0$@klaenv.com> <1835954908.83639.1534275003775@connect.xfinity.com> I meant to send to all. -------- Original Message ---------- From: DAVE HOGYE To: Kenneth Knight Date: August 14, 2018 at 12:30 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] Race Seat Thanks Ken, I also built a sturdy frame for the seat with a bracket that attaches to the roll bar mounting point, because I read somewhere that the seat frame should have more than floor sheet metal attachment points. Dave H. On August 14, 2018 at 11:57 AM Kenneth Knight wrote: All good advice from Dave. On thing to remember in the fit is the cover, it does take a bit of room. If you have a back that is not perfect (go figure a Vintage car driver could have a back problem) Pegasus sells a very dense special foam padding that can be placed under the cover. You can put it under your bony butt and at the small of the back to cushion the shock and pressure from the belts. It can also be used on the sides to make that fit just perfect. Underneath the car I have plates that tie that seat into the frame. There are lots of ways to do this but just putting a fender washer under the bracket bolts is NOT enough. Don't forget to tie the back of the seat to roll bar. In an ideal situation that is a bar crossing just about the height of your shoulder blades and this is the perfect mounting spot for the shoulder belts and the seat brace. Ken -----Original Message----- From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team .net] On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE via Fot Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 8:16 AM To: Steven Belfer via Fot; Todd Redmond; Steven Belfer Subject: Re: [Fot] Race Seat Good tips and suggestions, Steve. Todd, when I installed my Kirkey Vintage seat, as Steve suggests, I placed the seat low and wore my helmet to take some measurements. I wanted to be below the top of my roll bar and my bar fits under the factory hard top, so the height limit was known and set. I also modified the seat. I needed arm length but less leg length. When I tilted or reclined the back to a comfortable arm length, the seat bottom reduced leg extension needed for full clutch depression. I cut the seat to get more recline without effecting the bottom and leg position. It was an easy modification. I made a aluminum fill plates and had them welded in place. I also moved the steering wheel closer to the dash to give more arm extension. I spent a lot of time getting it all perfect for me. There are optimal leg and arm positions. Bent arms, never fully extended and when the clutch is fully depressed, your leg should not press on the seat bottom and impede movement, but could lightly touch. I learned this in 1982 when I bought Bob Bondurant's first book of high performance driving. The Kirkey seats come in different widths. Get one that fits relatively snug. Measure yourself in the seated position. If you have to you can send it back until you get the best fit. I thought the Vintage seat looks best without the head rest, but then you have to build a rest into your roll bar. Of course having the head rest extension solves this issue. I like that the Kirkey seats have a snap-in cover and inexpensive. I also added a little lumbar padding under the cover. Dave H. > On August 13, 2018 at 4:02 PM Steven Belfer via Fot > > wrote: > Hi Todd, > > I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of > > there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while wearing your helmet and Hans device. > ~STEVE > > > > On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot > > > > > > wrote: > > > > Friends! > > > > > > I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. > > What are you using? > > > > > > Thanks > > Todd Redmond > > 1958 TR3a > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team mailto:fot at autox.team .net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team mailto:fot at autox.team .net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team mailto:fot at autox.team .net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kknight at klaenv.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seat bracket2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 302379 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seat brackets.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 313810 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: seat.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 383896 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Aug 14 13:38:08 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 12:38:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> <4377498E-400F-4EB7-8D7F-5003B0255753@artwithcars.com> <671288474.75027.1534259786671@connect.xfinity.com> <001601d43400$b547c150$1fd743f0$@klaenv.com> I think you can see the seat bracket attachment to the roll bar mount in this photo. Dave H. > On August 14, 2018 at 11:57 AM Kenneth Knight wrote: > > > All good advice from Dave. On thing to remember in the fit is the cover, it > does take a bit of room. If you have a back that is not perfect (go figure > a Vintage car driver could have a back problem) Pegasus sells a very dense > special foam padding that can be placed under the cover. You can put it > under your bony butt and at the small of the back to cushion the shock and > pressure from the belts. It can also be used on the sides to make that fit > just perfect. > > Underneath the car I have plates that tie that seat into the frame. There > are lots of ways to do this but just putting a fender washer under the > bracket bolts is NOT enough. Don't forget to tie the back of the seat to > roll bar. In an ideal situation that is a bar crossing just about the > height of your shoulder blades and this is the perfect mounting spot for the > shoulder belts and the seat brace. > > Ken > > -----Original Message----- > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE via > Fot > Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 8:16 AM > To: Steven Belfer via Fot; Todd Redmond; Steven Belfer > Subject: Re: [Fot] Race Seat > > Good tips and suggestions, Steve. > Todd, when I installed my Kirkey Vintage seat, as Steve suggests, I placed > the seat low and wore my helmet to take some measurements. I wanted to be > below the top of my roll bar and my bar fits under the factory hard top, so > the height limit was known and set. > I also modified the seat. I needed arm length but less leg length. When I > tilted or reclined the back to a comfortable arm length, the seat bottom > reduced leg extension needed for full clutch depression. I cut the seat to > get more recline without effecting the bottom and leg position. It was an > easy modification. I made a aluminum fill plates and had them welded in > place. I also moved the steering wheel closer to the dash to give more arm > extension. I spent a lot of time getting it all perfect for me. > There are optimal leg and arm positions. Bent arms, never fully extended > and when the clutch is fully depressed, your leg should not press on the > seat bottom and impede movement, but could lightly touch. I learned this in > 1982 when I bought Bob Bondurant's first book of high performance driving. > The Kirkey seats come in different widths. Get one that fits relatively > snug. Measure yourself in the seated position. If you have to you can send > it back until you get the best fit. > I thought the Vintage seat looks best without the head rest, but then you > have to build a rest into your roll bar. Of course having the head rest > extension solves this issue. > I like that the Kirkey seats have a snap-in cover and inexpensive. I also > added a little lumbar padding under the cover. > Dave H. > > > On August 13, 2018 at 4:02 PM Steven Belfer via Fot > wrote: > > > > > > Hi Todd, > > > > I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of > there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. > I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on > the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop > to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support > pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible > in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while > wearing your helmet and Hans device. > > > > > > ~STEVE > > > > > > > > > On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot > wrote: > > > > > > Friends! > > > > > > > > > I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. > > > What are you using? > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > Todd Redmond > > > 1958 TR3a > > > _______________________________________________ > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kknight at klaenv.com > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: rear cockpit, battery.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 158843 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Aug 14 13:42:59 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 12:42:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Race Seat References: <49430bff.a366.16533642a17.Webtop.48@optonline.net> <4377498E-400F-4EB7-8D7F-5003B0255753@artwithcars.com> <671288474.75027.1534259786671@connect.xfinity.com> <001601d43400$b547c150$1fd743f0$@klaenv.com> Here's a better photo. > On August 14, 2018 at 11:57 AM Kenneth Knight wrote: > > > All good advice from Dave. On thing to remember in the fit is the cover, it > does take a bit of room. If you have a back that is not perfect (go figure > a Vintage car driver could have a back problem) Pegasus sells a very dense > special foam padding that can be placed under the cover. You can put it > under your bony butt and at the small of the back to cushion the shock and > pressure from the belts. It can also be used on the sides to make that fit > just perfect. > > Underneath the car I have plates that tie that seat into the frame. There > are lots of ways to do this but just putting a fender washer under the > bracket bolts is NOT enough. Don't forget to tie the back of the seat to > roll bar. In an ideal situation that is a bar crossing just about the > height of your shoulder blades and this is the perfect mounting spot for the > shoulder belts and the seat brace. > > Ken > > -----Original Message----- > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE via > Fot > Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 8:16 AM > To: Steven Belfer via Fot; Todd Redmond; Steven Belfer > Subject: Re: [Fot] Race Seat > > Good tips and suggestions, Steve. > Todd, when I installed my Kirkey Vintage seat, as Steve suggests, I placed > the seat low and wore my helmet to take some measurements. I wanted to be > below the top of my roll bar and my bar fits under the factory hard top, so > the height limit was known and set. > I also modified the seat. I needed arm length but less leg length. When I > tilted or reclined the back to a comfortable arm length, the seat bottom > reduced leg extension needed for full clutch depression. I cut the seat to > get more recline without effecting the bottom and leg position. It was an > easy modification. I made a aluminum fill plates and had them welded in > place. I also moved the steering wheel closer to the dash to give more arm > extension. I spent a lot of time getting it all perfect for me. > There are optimal leg and arm positions. Bent arms, never fully extended > and when the clutch is fully depressed, your leg should not press on the > seat bottom and impede movement, but could lightly touch. I learned this in > 1982 when I bought Bob Bondurant's first book of high performance driving. > The Kirkey seats come in different widths. Get one that fits relatively > snug. Measure yourself in the seated position. If you have to you can send > it back until you get the best fit. > I thought the Vintage seat looks best without the head rest, but then you > have to build a rest into your roll bar. Of course having the head rest > extension solves this issue. > I like that the Kirkey seats have a snap-in cover and inexpensive. I also > added a little lumbar padding under the cover. > Dave H. > > > On August 13, 2018 at 4:02 PM Steven Belfer via Fot > wrote: > > > > > > Hi Todd, > > > > I fit a Kirkey upright seat in my TR3. I probably had it in and out of > there 10 times and had the seat modified a bunch of times to get it right. > I also had the cage re-worked to fit the seat and and give me protection on > the left-side. I had the Kirkey seat-cover modified at an upholstery shop > to fit the changed seat. I also added some custom foam lumbar-support > pieces to the seat cover. The trick is to get the seat as low as possible > in the car, then lean it back just right for your comfort. Test it while > wearing your helmet and Hans device. > > > > > > ~STEVE > > > > > > > > > On Aug 13, 2018, at 6:05 AM, Todd Redmond via Fot > wrote: > > > > > > Friends! > > > > > > > > > I'm looking for recommendations for a race seat for the TR3. > > > What are you using? > > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > Todd Redmond > > > 1958 TR3a > > > _______________________________________________ > > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kknight at klaenv.com > > -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: roll cage mount detail.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 182522 bytes Desc: not available URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Aug 16 08:32:23 2018 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 14:32:23 +0000 Subject: [Fot] FOT request References: <1653e182e22-1e99-19c59@webjas-vab177.srv.aolmail.net> I received a request from long time FOT Rick Kristoff. He has been disconnected from the list somehow. His email is rek46 at aol.com. Mark, if you see this can you hook him back up? Thanks, Marty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick.parent at att.net Thu Aug 16 11:09:09 2018 From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 17:09:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] John Sanford References: <2090296785.8573712.1534439349194.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone have contact info for John?? Thanks! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick.parent at att.net Thu Aug 16 11:17:11 2018 From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 17:17:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 1500 Race Motor References: <366953455.8557428.1534439831652.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Guys, I was building some motors for myself when I was planning on racing a Spit. I have a 1500 with custom steel main caps and girdle, lightened Nitrided crank with 1300 rod journals, Carrillo rods, custom pistons, custom pan and on and on. It is not together but I would be willing to assemble and Dyno for the right price. I would also be willing to trade for an interesting car or project plus or minus some cash. All the best! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerrypoole at arkansas.net Thu Aug 16 13:18:51 2018 From: jerrypoole at arkansas.net (Jerry Poole) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2018 15:18:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] 1500 Race Engine Hi Rick, What are you asking for the 1500 race motor " as is" disassembled? Does the project include a prepared head and valve gear, pistons etc. (Don't really need a block). Can this be "Palletized" and shipped via LOL carrier? Are you still located in the Carolinas? Contact me at JerryPoole @ Arkansas.net. Thanks, Jerry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 17 09:51:08 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 15:51:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Pitt Race Results Query References: <1560064311.7797238.1534521068616.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi, Will the PittRace race results and lap times ever show up on either the PVGP site or on Speedhive? Asking for a friend. Regards,Bob Lang339-927-4489 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitlist at cox.net Mon Aug 20 12:55:23 2018 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 11:55:23 -0700 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it I plan to change the oil. I have previously been using synthetic from Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live. So I am looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire gearbox. Thanks, Joe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertten1 at aol.com Mon Aug 20 19:50:31 2018 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 21:50:31 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? Amici, So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire. At home barely could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. Similar symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire. So my question is - what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. Curious, Bob T -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Tue Aug 21 04:35:28 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 12:35:28 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> I try to keep things simple. I?m using a Bosch Red with ballast resistor in combination with a Pertronix I breaker. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Bob Totten via Fot Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. August 2018 03:51 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? Amici, So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire. At home barely could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. Similar symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire. So my question is - what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. Curious, Bob T -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Aug 21 06:17:10 2018 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 05:17:10 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> On 8/20/18 6:50 PM, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: > Amici, > > So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at > Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire.? At home barely > could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. That is also the symptom of a bad condenser. If it were me, unless there is something visibly wrong with the coil, I would first check the point gap, underside of the cap, and swap out the condenser before going out and buying a new coil. Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. I'm running a Mallory distributor as well, and it used to go through condensers on a regular basis. The ignition circuit assumes a good ground through the distributor body. My car's distributor body wasn't making a good enough ground. after a while I added a ground wire between the distributor body and the engine. Since then I have not needed to touch my onboard spare condensers. TeriAnn -- Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Tue Aug 21 06:42:43 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 08:42:43 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> Hi Bob, are you using the correct ohm coil? My notes say that with points and resistor a 1.5 ohm coil should be used. I use a Pertronix Flame Thrower. $40 or so from Jegs or others. Also with points, make sure the condenser is good. A faulty condenser will cause your symptoms too. Ask me how I know this! Cheers, Bill On 8/20/2018 9:50 PM, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: > Amici, > > So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at > Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire.? At home barely > could get the car off the trailer and into the garage.? Similar > symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to > retire.? So my question is -? what is the popular coil in use by my > brethren ? > > Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a > Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point > Distributor. > > Curious, > > Bob T > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Tue Aug 21 08:06:19 2018 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 10:06:19 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> <000601d4393a$aebf3540$0c3d9fc0$@gmail.com> Bosch Blue, no ballast, with Advanced Distributor (points) 1300 Spit. mike h On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 6:35 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: > I try to keep things simple. > > I?m using a Bosch Red with ballast resistor in combination with a > Pertronix I breaker. > > > > Cheers > > Chris > > > > > > *Von:* Fot *Im Auftrag von *Bob Totten via > Fot > *Gesendet:* Dienstag, 21. August 2018 03:51 > *An:* fot at autox.team.net > *Betreff:* [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? > > > > Amici, > > > > So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at > Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire. At home barely > could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. Similar symptoms > from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire. So > my question is - what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? > > > > Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a > Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point > Distributor. > > > > Curious, > > > > Bob T > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mhado at att.net Tue Aug 21 08:53:14 2018 From: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 09:53:14 -0500 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil References: <20180820185524.MJSQ4184.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo109.cox.net> Joe, Not sure if anyone answered you yet but I always use 85-90W GL-4 non-synthetic oil. The GL-4 is easier on the brass/bronze components. The NAPA brand is StaLube 85-90W. O'Reilly also has a 140W GL-4 if you want a heavier choice. Moss also carries the Dynolite brand in a straight 90W GL-4 for $10 a quart. Mike From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry via Fot Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 1:55 PM To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it I plan to change the oil. I have previously been using synthetic from Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live. So I am looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire gearbox. Thanks, Joe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ac at camoletti.ch Tue Aug 21 09:46:55 2018 From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 17:46:55 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> Amici, my 2 cents? worth : I run a stock distributor but prepped by Jeff Schlemmer (this makes a huge difference), and an original Lucas Coil dated 1963. Not the modern Lucas crap which burns on regular basis No issues and brilliant reliability. Plenty of 6?000 RPM. I have a Voltmeter with 35?000 Volts capability: I tested the modern Lucas Sports coil (gold), Bosch blue coil, Lucas NOS stock coil. The highest value ( I recall close to 30?000) was reached by the Lucas stock NOS (ref SA12) ! While the Lucas gold sports coil barely reached 20?000 or 25?000 if I recall well. As the NOS sellers say: don?t settle for less than OEM ! All the best! Alex Camoletti De : Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la part de Bill Tobin via Fot Envoy? : mardi 21 ao?t 2018 14:43 ? : fot at autox.team.net Objet : Re: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? Hi Bob, are you using the correct ohm coil? My notes say that with points and resistor a 1.5 ohm coil should be used. I use a Pertronix Flame Thrower. $40 or so from Jegs or others. Also with points, make sure the condenser is good. A faulty condenser will cause your symptoms too. Ask me how I know this! Cheers, Bill On 8/20/2018 9:50 PM, Bob Totten via Fot wrote: Amici, So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire. At home barely could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. Similar symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire. So my question is - what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. Curious, Bob T _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 21 10:48:05 2018 From: putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com (Rich Hahn) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 16:48:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> <000601d4393a$aebf3540$0c3d9fc0$@gmail.com> When I had my 1300 racing Spit I used the same combination from Jeff at Advanced.? He will supply the whole assemble as a kit.? Never had an ignition problem, of course, anything else that could go wrong did!!! On ?Tuesday?, ?August? ?21?, ?2018? ?12?:?40?:?09? ?PM? ?EDT, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: Bosch Blue, no ballast, with Advanced Distributor (points) 1300 Spit. mike h On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 6:35 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: I try to keep things simple. I?m using a Bosch Red with ballast resistor in combination with a Pertronix I breaker. ? Cheers Chris ? ? Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Bob Totten via Fot Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. August 2018 03:51 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? ? Amici, ? So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire.? At home barely could get the car off the trailer and into the garage.? Similar symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire.? So my question is -? what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? ? Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. ? Curious, ? Bob T ______________________________ _________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/ fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britcars at bellsouth.net Tue Aug 21 12:03:11 2018 From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 18:03:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil References: <20180820185524.MJSQ4184.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo109.cox.net> <008d01d4395e$b10aa180$131fe480$@att.net> I agree on the 85-90 weight gear oil. A lot of people think the 90 weight is too heavy or thick but it is very close to a straight 30 or 40 weight motor oil. The viscosity of motor oil and gear oil is measured differently and at different temps. A gear oil has additives and structure that resists the shearing forces between the gear teeth. All TRs came from the factory with this oil and I have used it in customers cars over 40 years. Never a problem. One Healey 3000 had over 976,000 on one rebuild of the overdrive gear box! 90 all the time. Barry From: M&M Hado via Fot To: 'Joe Curry' ; FOT at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 1:51 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil #yiv6525035276 #yiv6525035276 -- _filtered #yiv6525035276 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6525035276 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}#yiv6525035276 #yiv6525035276 p.yiv6525035276MsoNormal, #yiv6525035276 li.yiv6525035276MsoNormal, #yiv6525035276 div.yiv6525035276MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv6525035276 a:link, #yiv6525035276 span.yiv6525035276MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6525035276 a:visited, #yiv6525035276 span.yiv6525035276MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv6525035276 span.yiv6525035276EmailStyle17 {color:windowtext;}#yiv6525035276 span.yiv6525035276EmailStyle18 {color:black;}#yiv6525035276 .yiv6525035276MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv6525035276 {margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;}#yiv6525035276 div.yiv6525035276WordSection1 {}#yiv6525035276 Joe, ?Not sure if anyone answered you yet but I always use 85-90W GL-4 non-synthetic oil.? The GL-4 is easier on the brass/bronze components.? The NAPA brand is StaLube 85-90W.? O?Reilly also has a 140W GL-4 if you want a heavier choice.? Moss also carries the Dynolite brand in a straight 90W GL-4 for $10 a quart. ?Mike ? ?From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry via Fot Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 1:55 PM To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil ?I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it I plan to change the oil.? I have previously been using synthetic from Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live.? So I am looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire gearbox. ?Thanks,Joe_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Aug 21 14:29:39 2018 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 16:29:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? References: <1655a2d220d-1e9c-20995@webjas-vab159.srv.aolmail.net> <000601d4393a$aebf3540$0c3d9fc0$@gmail.com> <1997371136.396611.1534870085920@mail.yahoo.com> Agree you should check the condenser(s) first. Coils usually fail when hot but will run fine when cold-for a while. Not your symptoms. Voice of experience. Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 21, 2018, at 12:48 PM, Rich Hahn via Fot wrote: > > When I had my 1300 racing Spit I used the same combination from Jeff at Advanced. He will supply the whole assemble as a kit. Never had an ignition problem, of course, anything else that could go wrong did!!! > > > On ?Tuesday?, ?August? ?21?, ?2018? ?12?:?40?:?09? ?PM? ?EDT, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > > Bosch Blue, no ballast, with Advanced Distributor (points) 1300 Spit. > > mike h > > On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 6:35 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: > I try to keep things simple. > > I?m using a Bosch Red with ballast resistor in combination with a Pertronix I breaker. > > > > Cheers > > Chris > > > > > > Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Bob Totten via Fot > Gesendet: Dienstag, 21. August 2018 03:51 > An: fot at autox.team.net > Betreff: [Fot] Ignition Coil ?? > > > > Amici, > > > > So this weekend I believe my 2 year old coil crapped out, last run at Saturdays autocross there was sputtering and backfire. At home barely could get the car off the trailer and into the garage. Similar symptoms from couple years ago and found 20 year old E-Coil decided to retire. So my question is - what is the popular coil in use by my brethren ? > > > > Currently an Epoxy Pertronix black coil, with Ballast Resistor, in a Spitfire with a 1500 engine 11 to 1 comp and a Mallory Dual Point Distributor. > > > > Curious, > > > > Bob T > > > ______________________________ _________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate. html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/ fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Tue Aug 21 20:59:51 2018 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 21:59:51 -0500 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil References: <20180820185524.MJSQ4184.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo109.cox.net> <008d01d4395e$b10aa180$131fe480$@att.net> <1336070557.469314.1534874591867@mail.yahoo.com> Let?s see if this table of comparative oil viscosity will stay attached. Duncan > On Aug 21, 2018, at 1:03 PM, barry rosenberg via Fot wrote: > > I agree on the 85-90 weight gear oil. A lot of people think the 90 weight is too heavy or thick but it is very close to a straight 30 or 40 weight motor oil. The viscosity of motor oil and gear oil is measured differently and at different temps. A gear oil has additives and structure that resists the shearing forces between the gear teeth. All TRs came from the factory with this oil and I have used it in customers cars over 40 years. Never a problem. One Healey 3000 had over 976,000 on one rebuild of the overdrive gear box! 90 all the time. > > Barry > > > Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 1:51 PM > Subject: Re: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil > > Joe, > > Not sure if anyone answered you yet but I always use 85-90W GL-4 non-synthetic oil. The GL-4 is easier on the brass/bronze components. The NAPA brand is StaLube 85-90W. O?Reilly also has a 140W GL-4 if you want a heavier choice. Moss also carries the Dynolite brand in a straight 90W GL-4 for $10 a quart. > > Mike > > > Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 1:55 PM > Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil > > I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it I plan to change the oil. I have previously been using synthetic from Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live. So I am looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire gearbox. > > Thanks, > Joe > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Oil Viscosity Comparison Table ISO-SAE.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 68342 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ac at camoletti.ch Wed Aug 22 01:00:23 2018 From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 09:00:23 +0200 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil References: <20180820185524.MJSQ4184.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo109.cox.net> <008d01d4395e$b10aa180$131fe480$@att.net> Millers Classic Mineral GL4 80-90 works very well also. Critical that it be GL4, as GL5 will eat the yellow metals. I supplement it with 20% Lucas HD stabilizer, which reduces temperatures notably. De : Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la part de M&M Hado via Fot Envoy? : mardi 21 ao?t 2018 16:53 ? : 'Joe Curry'; FOT at autox.team.net Objet : Re: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil Joe, Not sure if anyone answered you yet but I always use 85-90W GL-4 non-synthetic oil. The GL-4 is easier on the brass/bronze components. The NAPA brand is StaLube 85-90W. O?Reilly also has a 140W GL-4 if you want a heavier choice. Moss also carries the Dynolite brand in a straight 90W GL-4 for $10 a quart. Mike From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry via Fot Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 1:55 PM To: FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it I plan to change the oil. I have previously been using synthetic from Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live. So I am looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire gearbox. Thanks, Joe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Aug 22 23:10:02 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 00:10:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Videos from Grattan last weekend Best parts are Saturday race 2, first couple of laps - I spin and work back up through the field, Sunday race 1, first couple of laps - start @ back because late to grid, pass a bunch of cars early, and Sunday race 2, had a really close race with Tim Covert in his Moondini sports racer. Sat race 1: https://youtu.be/FVDiObg73e8 Sat race 2: https://youtu.be/SFQUYNxwIMI Sat race 3: https://youtu.be/wexCgZZS6KE Sun race 1: https://youtu.be/_Kr87UZis-E Sun race 2: https://youtu.be/DeIWbfOf_xU Cheers, Tony -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Aug 14 05:24:32 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 07:24:32 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Kevin Potter Yeah I met Kevin a few times years ago, good guy, he's got the right approach and he's a damned good wrench. It was rare to see a Beady-Eye car with mechanical issues! Glen -----Original Message----- From: Bill Dentinger via Fot To: paulricco Cc: kdplep ; emilyricco ; fot ; dpa796 ; Fernibug Sent: Tue, Aug 14, 2018 4:55 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Kevin Potter Paul... Well said, Paul, and an overdue tribute indeed. Kevin Potter built great engines. The Beady Eye agenda (starting with engine builder Mike Belfer) was not to build an engine to win a particular race, but rather to build one to last all year and then be freshened come winter. I used to run 6-8 events a year, and Bob probably ran 16 a year, after he retired. Fortunately we used to help meet engine life expectations by not driving at 10/10ths. But engine building seemed to be Kevin's labor of love, and every spring he would say, "Bill...wait until to try this one!" Kevin's Day Job was that of shop mechanic for my small masonry company. And as a mechanic, he stood even taller in that capacity. There did not seem to be anything he would not undertake. One time I went out in the shop, and he had our crane in there. I do not know how the hell he ever got it in there (it was crossways), but it was in there. The OVHD doors were closed, and it looked to me like he was trying to take the boom off. He was a natural mechanic. He could build stuff, fix stuff, paint stuff, weld stuff. Bring it on. In his pre-Beady Eye days (while Steve's Dad Mike was still alive doing our work), Kevin was a dyed in the wool NASCAR nut. He and his wife traveled to NASCAR races all over the country. He was into Chevy V8s big time, and he built a fine short track racer. I remember it well, because all of the body parts were delivered to my shop one afternoon. They weighed 40 pounds (total). Kevin built the car. Everything, engine, drive train, paint, graphics, everything. It was a thing of beauty. I think he raced it once, which was enough for him to learn that while he had the talent to build such a race car...he could not afford to race. He sold the car. Down through the years while he was building our engines, he continued to use that old machine shop that specialized in Chevy V8s in general, and dragstrip stuff in particular. But Kevin knew what he wanted, and had good ideas on how to get there, and the shop found working on Kevin's little 'Brit stuff' an interesting diversion. Back in the day, my wife loved Kevin, because as many of you know, her husband was damn near worthless when it came to fixing anything. But with Kevin out there in the shop...her problems were easily solved. Well said, Paul and long overdue. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Thursday, July 26, 2018, Paul Ricco wrote: FOT, I would like to acknowledge Kevin Potter?s engine building prowess and contribution to our enjoyment of the TR4 that we race. For those that do not know, we purchased Bob Wismer?s blue Triumph TR4. We have had a great time with the car and have truly enjoyed getting to know the Triumph community. Kevin Potter contributed greatly to our positive experience. He may not even realize how much we appreciate the platform that he provided for us to get our start. If that is the case, that is my fault for not saying thank you sooner. I will keep this brief, but I would like to recognize what Kevin Potter did for us. Kevin Potter helped Bob Wismer and Bill Dentinger with engines and other mechanical matters for their Triumphs. Kevin built an engine for Bob to go with the TR4 that we purchased from Bob. Bob really wanted the new owners of the car to start out with a solid and reliable platform. Bob was very candid about the importance of the car being sold with a well-built fresh engine. Kevin Potter built an engine that has delivered on Bob?s wishes. We have maintained the engine very carefully and gone through the lower end 1 time since we got it. We are in our FOURTH season with the motor that Kevin built. We are running lap times below 3 minutes at Road America and and we can consistently run laps under 1:29 at Blackhawk. That engine is now going to be completely rebuilt. However, we have not suffered any major mechanical issues with it and the head was installed so well that we have no issues with it in the 4 seasons that we have run the car. We have a lot of admiration for Bob Wismer and his vision for the new owners. Furthermore, THNAK YOU to Kevin Potter for delivering on that vision by putting together the motor that he did. Sincerely, Paul Ricco Blue #4 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Fri Aug 17 12:33:23 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2018 18:33:23 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles Need some info and help!! Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it'll come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold replacement press on retaining rings. So I went to the local industrial bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they got the inner needle bearings I need but they say they haven't seen a press on retainer ring in a zillion years. So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what the heck do I do now?? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and nada. Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the car parked that I just put a new engine in??? [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13126 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Thu Aug 23 13:37:29 2018 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 15:37:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil References: <20180820185524.MJSQ4184.fed1rmfepo103.cox.net@fed1rmimpo109.cox.net> <008d01d4395e$b10aa180$131fe480$@att.net> <1336070557.469314.1534874591867@mail.yahoo.com> <42C80F63-1ACC-4F26-9B6F-B1E8DC97D6E6@gmail.com> Brad Penn GL4 non synthetic 85-90. Bruce On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 4:55 AM Duncan Charlton via Fot wrote: > Let?s see if this table of comparative oil viscosity will stay attached. > > Duncan > > > > On Aug 21, 2018, at 1:03 PM, barry rosenberg via Fot > wrote: > > I agree on the 85-90 weight gear oil. A lot of people think the 90 weight > is too heavy or thick but it is very close to a straight 30 or 40 weight > motor oil. The viscosity of motor oil and gear oil is measured differently > and at different temps. A gear oil has additives and structure that resists > the shearing forces between the gear teeth. All TRs came from the factory > with this oil and I have used it in customers cars over 40 years. Never a > problem. One Healey 3000 had over 976,000 on one rebuild of the overdrive > gear box! 90 all the time. > > Barry > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* M&M Hado via Fot > *To:* 'Joe Curry' ; FOT at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 21, 2018 1:51 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil > > Joe, > > Not sure if anyone answered you yet but I always use 85-90W GL-4 > non-synthetic oil. The GL-4 is easier on the brass/bronze components. The > NAPA brand is StaLube 85-90W. O?Reilly also has a 140W GL-4 if you want a > heavier choice. Moss also carries the Dynolite brand in a straight 90W > GL-4 for $10 a quart. > > Mike > > > *From:* Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Joe Curry via Fot > *Sent:* Monday, August 20, 2018 1:55 PM > *To:* FOT at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil > > I am about to dig into my overdrive that quit working and while I am at it > I plan to change the oil. I have previously been using synthetic from > Lucas but that is expensive and difficult to get where I live. So I am > looking for recommendations of normal types of oil (Non-synthetic) for the > best results using a D-Type Overdrive on a 4-Synchro 3-rail Spitfire > gearbox. > > Thanks, > Joe > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutztr4 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick.parent at att.net Thu Aug 23 14:40:35 2018 From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 20:40:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> I think I used heavy duty snap rings but its been so long I may be mistaken. On Thursday, August 23, 2018 3:12 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Need some info and help!! ? Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it?ll come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold replacement press on retaining rings. ?So I went to the local industrial bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they got the inner needle bearings I need ?but they say they haven?t seen a press on retainer ring in a zillion years. ? So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what the heck do I do now??? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and nada. ? Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the car parked that I just put a new engine in??? ? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com ? | ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13126 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: not available URL: From spitlist at cox.net Thu Aug 23 18:32:01 2018 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 17:32:01 -0700 Subject: [Fot] D-Type Overdrive Recommended oil Thanks for all the feedback on this subject. After considerable study, I have decided to go with Gl4 (85-90). Most likely, I will go with the StaLube brand since that is available locally and is very well priced. Cheers, Joe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Aug 23 19:26:53 2018 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 19:26:53 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <389289164.1724239.1535056835548@mail.yahoo.com> Mark, Is the brass piece in these pics below what you are looking for? I don?t have a source but thought a pic might help. These came with my axles. Bud > On Aug 23, 2018, at 2:40 PM, Rick Parent via Fot wrote: > > I think I used heavy duty snap rings but its been so long I may be mistaken. > > > > > Need some info and help!! > > Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it?ll come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold replacement press on retaining rings. So I went to the local industrial bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they got the inner needle bearings I need but they say they haven?t seen a press on retainer ring in a zillion years. > > So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what the heck do I do now?? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and nada. > > Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the car parked that I just put a new engine in??? > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: thumb_IMG_6365_1024.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 78129 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: thumb_IMG_6368_1024.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 53875 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rek46 at aol.com Fri Aug 24 08:34:40 2018 From: rek46 at aol.com (Richard Kristoff) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 10:34:40 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks,? Rick Kristoff #46 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From teamtri at aol.com Fri Aug 24 09:20:02 2018 From: teamtri at aol.com (teamtri at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 11:20:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> Hi Rick, How you doing??? I have a bunch of questions for you!! Regards, Scott Harper Team Triumph: British Automotive Owner/Operator 330-392-7176 www.teamtriumph.com -----Original Message----- From: Richard Kristoff via Fot To: fot Sent: Fri, Aug 24, 2018 11:07 am Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Fri Aug 24 10:09:52 2018 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 11:09:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> I find most of my FOT email in the Spam folder. Bill Dentinger has taken full responsibility. Bob Kramer On Fri, Aug 24, 2018 at 10:05 AM Richard Kristoff via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get > back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can > someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Fri Aug 24 11:25:27 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 17:25:27 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net>, As he certainly should! Sent from my iPhone I find most of my FOT email in the Spam folder. Bill Dentinger has taken full responsibility. Bob Kramer Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkrantz77 at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 11:37:40 2018 From: rkrantz77 at comcast.net (Ron KRANTZ) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 13:37:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> that's what happens when you sell your spitfire. > On August 24, 2018 at 10:34 AM Richard Kristoff via Fot wrote: > > Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Fri Aug 24 12:22:16 2018 From: rek46 at aol.com (rek46) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 14:22:16 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> That's frustrating. > > On Aug 24, 2018 at 1:37 PM, wrote: > > that's what happens when you sell your spitfire. > > > > On August 24, 2018 at 10:34 AM Richard Kristoff via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rek46 at aol.com Fri Aug 24 12:23:13 2018 From: rek46 at aol.com (rek46) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 14:23:13 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> References: <1656c5bced2-1eb9-ceef@webjas-vaa047.srv.aolmail.net> That's frustrating. > > On Aug 24, 2018 at 1:37 PM, wrote: > > that's what happens when you sell your spitfire. > > > > On August 24, 2018 at 10:34 AM Richard Kristoff via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Fri Aug 24 12:54:06 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 14:54:06 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Am I back ? References: <295D46A5-9778-41DC-8536-E4C2BF71EC60@mhc-law.com> Everyone has a 'Long Suit'...mine happens to be short. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Friday, August 24, 2018, John H. Hasty via Fot wrote: As he certainly should! Sent from my iPhone On Aug 24, 2018, at 12:58 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: I find most of my FOT email in the Spam folder. Bill Dentinger has taken full responsibility. Bob Kramer On Fri, Aug 24, 2018 at 10:05 AM Richard Kristoff via Fot wrote: Got dropped or lost on FOT list ...Thanks Marty Sukey for helping me get back on and Mark for figuring it out.....,if this gets posted...Can someones confirm?...Thanks, Rick Kristoff #46 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From walt at hot-tr6.com Fri Aug 24 19:50:36 2018 From: walt at hot-tr6.com (Walt Hollowell) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 19:50:36 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2019 I haven't been paying attention. What are the details for the 2019 Kastner Cup?Walt Hollowell?Albuquerque, New Mexico? Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Fri Aug 24 21:26:38 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 20:26:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2019 References: <20180825024229.832B32588FFB@autox.team.net> Point your rig towards Bakersfield CA and Buttonwillow Raceway the first weekend of May! Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 24, 2018, at 6:50 PM, Walt Hollowell via Fot wrote: > > > I haven't been paying attention. What are the details for the 2019 Kastner Cup? > Walt Hollowell > Albuquerque, New Mexico > > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From my71spit13 at yahoo.com Sat Aug 25 04:23:14 2018 From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 10:23:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] KCup in Triumph World Mag References: <1519539795.3620250.1535192594218.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... There is an article in the latest Triumph World Magazine about Kas Kastner and the Kastner Cup.? Simon Goldsworthy (Triumph World Editor) sent me an email notifying me that he used one of my photos. FYI... Shawn Frank North American Triumphs - Owner Des Moines Concours d'Elegance - Recruiter Continued Legacy - Owner Spitfire & GT6 Magazine - Editor Iowa British Car Club FOT/VTR#94692/NASS#746 Drive Away Cancer Iowa - Driver 515-339-4228 '63 Triumph Spitfire4 (MK1) "Lucy" '71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV "Gertrude" '72 Triumph GT6 MK3 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Sat Aug 25 08:34:18 2018 From: fmccjr at aol.com (Rick McCurdy) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 10:34:18 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2019 References: <20180825024229.832B32588FFB@autox.team.net> Is it 1st weekend in May- I thought I read something about mid June? (May would be great... If I can work out not missing any symphony gigs, I?m better off). When will an ?official? word go out? It?s time for a west coast road trip! Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY Sent from my iPad > On Aug 24, 2018, at 11:26 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Point your rig towards Bakersfield CA and Buttonwillow Raceway the first weekend of May! > > Brad Eells > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 24, 2018, at 6:50 PM, Walt Hollowell via Fot wrote: >> >> >> I haven't been paying attention. What are the details for the 2019 Kastner Cup? >> Walt Hollowell >> Albuquerque, New Mexico >> >> >> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Sat Aug 25 11:20:58 2018 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 12:20:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT, Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. 1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for? 2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with? Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. Thank you for considering my questions, Paul Ricco From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sat Aug 25 12:19:43 2018 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 13:19:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: Paul, Running the engine at 2000 to 3000 rpm and just leaving it there for 20 minutes is usually suggested as the right way to break in a new flat-tappet cam and tappets but my understanding is that this will not to much for your rings. The following applies only to piston ring break-in and is not specific to TR engines (and I?m certainly open to hearing scientific reasons why this might be incorrect). I do lots of throttle on/throttle off to load the piston rings in both directions, so to speak, so that means a few laps of rather jerky driving. If the roughness profile of the cylinder walls was done properly it shouldn't take more than a few laps to bed the rings. It would probably be a good idea to change the oil and filter after the first hard track session. Duncan > On Aug 25, 2018, at 12:20 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: > > FOT, > > Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. > > We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. > > 1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for? > > 2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? > > a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? > b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? > c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with? > > Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. > > We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. > > Thank you for considering my questions, > > Paul Ricco > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > From kknight at klaenv.com Sat Aug 25 12:22:08 2018 From: kknight at klaenv.com (Kenneth Knight) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 11:22:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2019 Good Afternoon All; The 2019 Kastner Cup will be held at Buttonwillow Raceway Park (Outside Bakersfield, CA) early in May of next year. We have not made any official announcements about the race as the track does not confirm its 2019 racing calendar until late August (likely in the next week). When I get the official word our date is solid from VARA, the sanctioning race club, that information will be broadcast to FOT. So you all know WHERE and the WHEN will be confirmed soon. It is going to be a great event and well worth whatever tow you have to make to get to this event. So stay tuned and enjoy your fall racing. More to come soon! Cheers to All Ken Knight 2019 Kastner Cup Event Chair -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Sat Aug 25 13:50:31 2018 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 19:50:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: Hi Paul.? When I last raced in the late 1990's, I was building 180 HP motors, taking advantage of all the SCCA rules would allow.? I was using up to 7,000 PRM's consistently.? Since I had to use a stock crank, I was rebuilding engines after 4 race weekends.? Therefore, my break in procedure may be different than someone who is building an engine to last a season or more. When I showed up at the track with a brand new engine, it would have run only a few minutes in the garage, to make sure the oil pressure was OK, check for leaks, and get the timing set for the crankshaft trigger ignition, as well as the electronic distributor.? I would run the first session on the track, starting out using up to 5,000 RPM's, than gradually increasing the red line, until I was up to 7,000 RPM's by the end of the session.? I used Valvoline 20W50 VR-1 Racing Oil, with a bit of Molebdomen (sp?) Disulfide (Moly) additive.? At the end of the session, I considered my engine broken in.? I didn't change the oil until after the race weekend. I used cast iron (soft) middle and oil control rings, so they would bed in quickly.? Because I was using pop-up pistons, which created an unusual flame pattern, I used a chrome-moly (hard) top ring.? After the session, the engine was fully broken in, and additional hours would only show barely perceptible increases in performance as the rings further bedded in.? If you are building less radical engines, intended to run many weekends before rebuilds, you may want to follow more extensive break in periods.? In my case, I never found any need to. And that's my experience.? Good luck. Jack Wheeler1990 SCCA EP Champion TR-4 On Saturday, August 25, 2018, 1:38:20 PM EDT, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: FOT, Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines.? The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. 1.? We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in.? They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s.? How long and how many RPM?s are people running them? for? 2.? How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? ??? a.? Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? ??? b.? Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? ??? c.? Something else?? If so, what are you having success with? Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do.? We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. Thank you for considering my questions, Paul Ricco _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sat Aug 25 15:33:25 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 17:33:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: The short version, rings flex. Piston pushes ring up, it's flat and against the lower face of the groove. Gas pressure charge travels through the side gap on top past the upper face of the ring and gets behind it right before TDC @ ignition point. At that point the ring flexes and seals the top and lower faces of the ring against the groove faces, and the charge is trapped behind the ring; this is for pressure retention & max ring expansion. When the piston starts to go down, the ring flexes back flat against the upper groove face and loses the charge behind it and relaxes a bit. Repeat this every combustion stroke. The above is with power on. On closed throttle (decell), there's a vacuum on top of the piston so there is not a pressure charge to fully expand the ring, so it doesn't flex the same. This flexing of the ring will give it a very very slightly ) face as a result, it's not perfectly flat. So ring seating isn't just to to get the initial "burnishing" of ring/cylinder wall, it also establishes the profile of the ring face for the best seal under both full open and full closed throttle. It's all in the ring FLEX! This is also why ring side clearance is so critical, I scrap more pistons for this being out of spec than for any other reason, especially if the engine was running rich. My break-in routine is- Initial start, run to temp, 1 maybe 2 heat cycles, retorque & check all. (If new cam, 15-20 minute @ 2k rpm) No excessive running beyond cam break-in and basic tuning with no load! On track, 2-3 warm-up laps @ part throttle, vary RPM 4-5k, use some engine braking. 2-3 more laps with more throttle and engine braking, same rpm. 2-3 more laps using full throttle, maybe 85-90% revs, and intentionalrepeated HEAVY engine braking from WOT in top gear. After that I usually do a retorque andfollow-up; next time out should be good to go. This open/closed throttle runningsubjects the rings to the loads that it will have under normaloperation. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: Paul Ricco via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Sat, Aug 25, 2018 1:30 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT,Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend.We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well.1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for?2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with?Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules.We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully.Thank you for considering my questions,Paul Ricco_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sat Aug 25 15:48:53 2018 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 16:48:53 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2019 References: <20180825024229.832B32588FFB@autox.team.net> <649193A0-31FC-4CE4-BE1C-9035F83943E2@aol.com> Ken Knight will be putting out the specifics. Shortly. It will be in May, but VARA needs to get ink on paper. This Kastner Cup has the possibility of something very special. Perhaps even historical. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Aug 25, 2018, at 9:34 AM, Rick McCurdy via Fot wrote: > > Is it 1st weekend in May- I thought I read something about mid June? (May would be great... If I can work out not missing any symphony gigs, I?m better off). > When will an ?official? word go out? It?s time for a west coast road trip! > > Rick McCurdy > Newburgh, NY > > > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Aug 24, 2018, at 11:26 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: >> >> Point your rig towards Bakersfield CA and Buttonwillow Raceway the first weekend of May! >> >> Brad Eells >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Aug 24, 2018, at 6:50 PM, Walt Hollowell via Fot wrote: >>> >>> >>> I haven't been paying attention. What are the details for the 2019 Kastner Cup? >>> Walt Hollowell >>> Albuquerque, New Mexico >>> >>> >>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertten1 at aol.com Sat Aug 25 16:21:23 2018 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2018 18:21:23 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Red of Blue Electric Fuel Pump Question for the masses ... what is the flow rate and pressure for the Purolator blue pump ( part number 42 S ) ?? I know the red pump ( part number 12 S ) is rated at 35 gph / 4 - 7 psi . This would be used on my race spit. Thanks in advance, Bob T. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sun Aug 26 02:20:28 2018 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2018 10:20:28 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: <16573018b88-1ebb-af12@webjas-vac012.srv.aolmail.net> Probably much more horsepower is lost by being too kind on a fresh engine than by running it at full throttle too soon; Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: paulricco at att.net, "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 25 augustus 2018 23:33:25 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Th e s hort version, rings flex. Piston pushes ring up, it's flat and against the lower face of the groove. Gas pressure charge travels through the side gap on top past the upper face of the ring and gets behind it right before TDC @ ignition point. At that point the ring flexes and seals the top and lower faces of the ring against the groove faces, and the charge is trapped behind the ring; this is for pressure retention & max ring expansion. When the piston starts to go down, the ring flexes back flat against the upper groove face and loses the charge behind it and relaxes a bit. Repeat this every combustion stroke. The above is with power on. On closed throttle (decell), there's a vacuum on top of the piston so there is not a pressure charge to fully expand the ring, so it doesn't flex the same. This flexing of the ring will give it a very very slightly ) face as a result, it's not perfectly flat. So ring seating isn't just to to get the initial "burnishing" of ring/cylinder wall, it also establishes the profile of the ring face for the best seal under both full open and full closed throttle. It's all in the ring FLEX! This is also why ring side clearance is so critical, I scrap more pistons for this being out of spec than for any other reason, especially if the engine was running rich. My break-in routine is- Initial start, run to temp, 1 maybe 2 heat cycles, retorque & check all. (If new cam, 15-20 minute @ 2k rpm) No excessive running beyond cam break-in and basic tuning with no load! On track, 2-3 warm-up laps @ part throttle, vary RPM 4-5k, use some engine braking. 2-3 more laps with more throttle and engine braking, same rpm. 2-3 more laps using full throttle, maybe 85-90% revs, and intentional repeated HEAVY engine braking from WOT in top gear. After that I usually do a retorque and follow-up; next time out should be good to go. This open/closed throttle running subjects the rings to the loads that it will have under normal operation. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: Paul Ricco via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Sat, Aug 25, 2018 1:30 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT, Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. 1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for? 2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with? Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. Thank you for considering my questions, Paul Ricco _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sun Aug 26 05:50:13 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2018 07:50:13 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Yes there is some degree of truth in that, it's a balance... Glen -----Original Message----- From: van.mulders.marcel To: fubog1 Cc: fot Sent: Sun, Aug 26, 2018 4:20 am Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Probably much more horsepower is lost by being too kind on a fresh engine than by running it at full throttle too soon; Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: paulricco at att.net, "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 25 augustus 2018 23:33:25 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions The short version, rings flex. Piston pushes ring up, it's flat and against the lower face of the groove. Gas pressure charge travels through the side gap on top past the upper face of the ring and gets behind it right before TDC @ ignition point. At that point the ring flexes and seals the top and lower faces of the ring against the groove faces, and the charge is trapped behind the ring; this is for pressure retention & max ring expansion. When the piston starts to go down, the ring flexes back flat against the upper groove face and loses the charge behind it and relaxes a bit. Repeat this every combustion stroke. The above is with power on. On closed throttle (decell), there's a vacuum on top of the piston so there is not a pressure charge to fully expand the ring, so it doesn't flex the same. This flexing of the ring will give it a very very slightly ) face as a result, it's not perfectly flat. So ring seating isn't just to to get the initial "burnishing" of ring/cylinder wall, it also establishes the profile of the ring face for the best seal under both full open and full closed throttle. It's all in the ring FLEX! This is also why ring side clearance is so critical, I scrap more pistons for this being out of spec than for any other reason, especially if the engine was running rich. My break-in routine is- Initial start, run to temp, 1 maybe 2 heat cycles, retorque & check all. (If new cam, 15-20 minute @ 2k rpm) No excessive running beyond cam break-in and basic tuning with no load! On track, 2-3 warm-up laps @ part throttle, vary RPM 4-5k, use some engine braking. 2-3 more laps with more throttle and engine braking, same rpm. 2-3 more laps using full throttle, maybe 85-90% revs, and intentionalrepeated HEAVY engine braking from WOT in top gear. After that I usually do a retorque andfollow-up; next time out should be good to go. This open/closed throttle runningsubjects the rings to the loads that it will have under normaloperation. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: Paul Ricco via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Sat, Aug 25, 2018 1:30 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT,Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend.We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well.1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for?2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with?Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules.We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully.Thank you for considering my questions,Paul Ricco_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rocky at spitfire4.com Sun Aug 26 15:57:59 2018 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2018 16:57:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Red of Blue Electric Fuel Pump References: <165732d7432-1eba-a52d@webjas-vaa180.srv.aolmail.net> I put in Holley Blues (7 psi) and it just did not seem to work as well, even though at the carb I only need about 2? psi. So I put in Reds (15 psi) and they work fine. Fuel pumps are in the trunk at the cell (2 of them because I have 2 pickups in the cell, one at each rear corner). Then I have the Holley regulator up[ front just before the carbs, also a fuel pressure gauge ? more than 2? psi would overpower the SU carbs. --Rocky Entriken HP Spitfire Mk. I From: Bob Totten via Fot Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2018 5:21 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Red of Blue Electric Fuel Pump Question for the masses ... what is the flow rate and pressure for the Purolator blue pump ( part number 42 S ) ?? I know the red pump ( part number 12 S ) is rated at 35 gph / 4 - 7 psi . This would be used on my race spit. Thanks in advance, Bob T. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Aug 27 05:53:21 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 13:53:21 +0200 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: Hi, I never used braking in oil on a new engine. I put in 10w60 synthetic oil and go racing. Cheers Chris -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Paul Ricco via Fot Gesendet: Samstag, 25. August 2018 19:21 An: Friends of Triumph Betreff: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT, Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. 1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for? 2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with? Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. Thank you for considering my questions, Paul Ricco _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Aug 27 06:05:03 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 14:05:03 +0200 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions References: <16573018b88-1ebb-af12@webjas-vac012.srv.aolmail.net> <973963657.986204829.1535271628399.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> My piston manufacturer says about braking in: Put the pistons in, and then drive the car to pole. Means: Reckless driving from the first second. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 26. August 2018 10:20 An: fubog1 Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Probably much more horsepower is lost by being too kind on a fresh engine than by running it at full throttle too soon; Marcel _____ Verzonden: Zaterdag 25 augustus 2018 23:33:25 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions The short version, rings flex. Piston pushes ring up, it's flat and against the lower face of the groove. Gas pressure charge travels through the side gap on top past the upper face of the ring and gets behind it right before TDC @ ignition point. At that point the ring flexes and seals the top and lower faces of the ring against the groove faces, and the charge is trapped behind the ring; this is for pressure retention & max ring expansion. When the piston starts to go down, the ring flexes back flat against the upper groove face and loses the charge behind it and relaxes a bit. Repeat this every combustion stroke. The above is with power on. On closed throttle (decell), there's a vacuum on top of the piston so there is not a pressure charge to fully expand the ring, so it doesn't flex the same. This flexing of the ring will give it a very very slightly ) face as a result, it's not perfectly flat. So ring seating isn't just to to get the initial "burnishing" of ring/cylinder wall, it also establishes the profile of the ring face for the best seal under both full open and full closed throttle. It's all in the ring FLEX! This is also why ring side clearance is so critical, I scrap more pistons for this being out of spec than for any other reason, especially if the engine was running rich. My break-in routine is- Initial start, run to temp, 1 maybe 2 heat cycles, retorque & check all. (If new cam, 15-20 minute @ 2k rpm) No excessive running beyond cam break-in and basic tuning with no load! On track, 2-3 warm-up laps @ part throttle, vary RPM 4-5k, use some engine braking. 2-3 more laps with more throttle and engine braking, same rpm. 2-3 more laps using full throttle, maybe 85-90% revs, and intentional repeated HEAVY engine braking from WOT in top gear. After that I usually do a retorque and follow-up; next time out should be good to go. This open/closed throttle running subjects the rings to the loads that it will have under normal operation. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- Sent: Sat, Aug 25, 2018 1:30 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Aug 27 09:44:58 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 11:44:58 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Amici... When I was a teenager, I remember two adults discussing this engine break-in issue concerning for a new street car. One insisted it was critical to go no faster than 35 mph for the first 1,800 miles, then go no faster than 50 mph until 2,500 miles. The other said that's the way you make your car into a 'sheepish dog'. He said if you wanted the car to be quick and responsive, you needed to give it some angry miles per hour early on. He swore the most important thing was NOT driving it at one speed for any length of time. Go fast, then slow, go fast then slow. I just listened. You should hear what they said about handling your Honeymoon. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Chris Marx via Fot To: fot at autox. team. net Sent: Mon, Aug 27, 2018 6:30 am Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions My piston manufacturer says about braking in: Put the pistons in, and then drive the car to pole. Means: Reckless driving from the first second. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 26. August 2018 10:20 An: fubog1 Cc: fot Betreff: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions Probably much more horsepower is lost by being too kind on a fresh engine than by running it at full throttle too soon; Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: paulricco at att.net, "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 25 augustus 2018 23:33:25 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions The short version, rings flex. Piston pushes ring up, it's flat and against the lower face of the groove. Gas pressure charge travels through the side gap on top past the upper face of the ring and gets behind it right before TDC @ ignition point. At that point the ring flexes and seals the top and lower faces of the ring against the groove faces, and the charge is trapped behind the ring; this is for pressure retention & max ring expansion. When the piston starts to go down, the ring flexes back flat against the upper groove face and loses the charge behind it and relaxes a bit. Repeat this every combustion stroke. The above is with power on. On closed throttle (decell), there's a vacuum on top of the piston so there is not a pressure charge to fully expand the ring, so it doesn't flex the same. This flexing of the ring will give it a very very slightly ) face as a result, it's not perfectly flat. So ring seating isn't just to to get the initial "burnishing" of ring/cylinder wall, it also establishes the profile of the ring face for the best seal under both full open and full closed throttle. It's all in the ring FLEX! This is also why ring side clearance is so critical, I scrap more pistons for this being out of spec than for any other reason, especially if the engine was running rich. My break-in routine is- Initial start, run to temp, 1 maybe 2 heat cycles, retorque & check all. (If new cam, 15-20 minute @ 2k rpm) No excessive running beyond cam break-in and basic tuning with no load! On track, 2-3 warm-up laps @ part throttle, vary RPM 4-5k, use some engine braking. 2-3 more laps with more throttle and engine braking, same rpm. 2-3 more laps using full throttle, maybe 85-90% revs, and intentional repeated HEAVY engine braking from WOT in top gear. After that I usually do a retorque and follow-up; next time out should be good to go. This open/closed throttle running subjects the rings to the loads that it will have under normal operation. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: Paul Ricco via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Sat, Aug 25, 2018 1:30 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 Race Engine Break-in Questions FOT, Good afternoon and we hope everyone is having a great weekend. We have a couple questions for those who have had experience and success building TR4 race engines. The information might be helpful others on the forum as well. 1. We have seen a few different recommendations for initial run-in. They seem to range from 5 minutes to 20 minutes at approximately 2000 RPM?s. How long and how many RPM?s are people running them for? 2. How long are people leaving the break-in oil in the motor? a. Are people taking out the break in oil right after the run-in and replacing it with regular oil before leaving for the track? b. Are people running a few sessions under load at the track with it in and then switching? c. Something else? If so, what are you having success with? Again, we are really gearing the questions towards race engines due to complication of breaking in the race motors at the track with limited time and the track session schedules. We are trying to avoid re-starting the entire referendum up on oil brands again, so we apologize if we do. We are really trying to get to how people are breaking-in the TR4 motors successfully. Thank you for considering my questions, Paul Ricco _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spiwakd at aol.com Mon Aug 27 18:36:02 2018 From: spiwakd at aol.com (spiwakd at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 20:36:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I haven't used these before and don't know where to start -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Aug 27 23:17:38 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 00:17:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure References: <1657df57385-1ebd-1ca4a@webjas-vaa102.srv.aolmail.net> I used about 25 psi cold (26 front / 24 rear).? Factory recommends a bit less. Regards, Tony Drews On 8/27/2018 7:36 PM, Dave Spiwak via Fot wrote: > I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new > Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time > to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I > haven't used these before and don't know where to start > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 28 00:38:21 2018 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (vintagenick42) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 23:38:21 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure DaveWith my setup temps looked good with 26 and 26.5 (f&r).BUT...they were a bit smaller in diameter than the same size yokos that I had been runnin. Enough smaller that it really needed a rear gear change as i ran out of revs in many places and used quite a bit more revs than the motor enjoyed! Have funNick in nor cal Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Dave Spiwak via Fot Date: 8/27/18 5:36 PM (GMT-08:00) To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I haven't used these before and don't know where to start -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Tue Aug 28 03:11:32 2018 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 09:11:32 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure References: <1657df57385-1ebd-1ca4a@webjas-vaa102.srv.aolmail.net>, <20180828090016.1FB14258960C@autox.team.net> You could also check in with Hoosier. They usually have a pretty good idea of where to start. Scott (B.) Scott Barr McCarty Law LLP (920) 257-2233 Dave With my setup temps looked good with 26 and 26.5 (f&r). BUT...they were a bit smaller in diameter than the same size yokos that I had been runnin. Enough smaller that it really needed a rear gear change as i ran out of revs in many places and used quite a bit more revs than the motor enjoyed! Have fun Nick in nor cal Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Dave Spiwak via Fot Date: 8/27/18 5:36 PM (GMT-08:00) To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I haven't used these before and don't know where to start From tr4racing at googlemail.com Tue Aug 28 04:55:48 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 12:55:48 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure References: <1657df57385-1ebd-1ca4a@webjas-vaa102.srv.aolmail.net> I?ve never tested Speedsters, so my suggestion might be not fitting. With Yokohama A048 I use 30 psi cold. That gives the best lap time. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Dave Spiwak via Fot Gesendet: Dienstag, 28. August 2018 02:36 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: [Fot] Speedster pressure I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I haven't used these before and don't know where to start -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Tue Aug 28 05:32:07 2018 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 07:32:07 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure References: <1657df57385-1ebd-1ca4a@webjas-vaa102.srv.aolmail.net> <20180828090016.1FB14258960C@autox.team.net> <663FED4D2792483A.0c20bb96-5436-4abf-8e59-c99cbd4809e4@mail.outlook.com> Dave: With A locked rear, weight balance within 2% at each wheel and speedsters, I try to end up with 30 PSI at each wheel, hot. That usually means starting at 23 front, 25 rear. Your conditions and style may be optimal at another point. Last I checked, Hoosier recommends 10 psi for every ton of car weight. I find that a bit low. Hope to see you there! Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 28, 2018, at 5:11 AM, Barr, Scott via Fot wrote: > > You could also check in with Hoosier. They usually have a pretty good idea of where to start. > > Scott (B.) > > > > Scott Barr > McCarty Law LLP > (920) 257-2233 > > > > > > Dave > With my setup temps looked good with 26 and 26.5 (f&r). > BUT...they were a bit smaller in diameter than the same size yokos that I had been runnin. Enough smaller that it really needed a rear gear change as i ran out of revs in many places and used quite a bit more revs than the motor enjoyed! > > Have fun > Nick in nor cal > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Dave Spiwak via Fot > Date: 8/27/18 5:36 PM (GMT-08:00) > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] Speedster pressure > > I'm off to Lime Rock Historics this week with my TR4 and new Speedsters. I already got bumped to a faster group and won't have time to experiment, so I'm hoping someone will give me tire pressures. I haven't used these before and don't know where to start > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > From brakey6666 at gmail.com Tue Aug 28 11:14:30 2018 From: brakey6666 at gmail.com (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 13:14:30 -0400 Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma SOLVED Thanks for those that provided suggestions to the A-Type overdrive problem I had back in the beginning of August. After a complete rebuild of the trans and overdrive the overdrive slipped under load but was fine with a light load on it. A pressure test revealed a low pump pressure of ~325 psi. I tore down the unit and checked for problems and replaced the pump assembly with a new one and it works great now. Thanks again Glenn Franco 74 TR6, 68 TR250. 47 MGTC, 73 BMW 2002 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 28 16:39:56 2018 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2018 22:39:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] A-Type Overdrive Dilemma SOLVED References: Thanks for sharing.? The more information we have the better prepared we will be to maintain these beasts well into the future. Jack On Tuesday, August 28, 2018, 4:20:41 PM EDT, Glenn Franco via Fot wrote: Thanks for those that provided suggestions to the A-Type overdrive problem I had back in the beginning of August.After a complete rebuild of the trans and overdrive the overdrive slipped under load but was fine with a light load on it.A pressure test revealed a low pump pressure of ~325 psi.I tore down the unit and checked for problems and replaced the pump assembly with a new one and it works great now. Thanks againGlenn Franco74 TR6, 68 TR250. 47 MGTC, 73 BMW 2002_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mckearn2 at gmail.com Thu Aug 23 13:39:45 2018 From: mckearn2 at gmail.com (McKearn McKearn) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 14:39:45 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> Hey Mark. Not sure of the specific axle your talking about but if it's similar to my old jeep, it should be easy enough to make a shrink fit collar to retain the axle. Make a sleeve which is .001 / inch of diameter smaller than the axle. So 1.25 x.001= .00125 dia. smaller in the case of a 1.25 dia. axle. Heat it up and put it on. When it cools , it will not come off... If you do need to remove it you can probably get it off by reheating. The reheating end of things can be a little iffee.. Most decent machine shops can make an accurate sleeve. P.J. On Fri, Aug 17, 2018 at 1:33 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > Need some info and help!! > > > > Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it > in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the > axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the > press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it?ll > come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate > comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake > backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold > replacement press on retaining rings. So I went to the local industrial > bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they > got the inner needle bearings I need but they say they haven?t seen a > press on retainer ring in a zillion years. > > > > So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what > the heck do I do now?? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and > nada. > > > > Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the > car parked that I just put a new engine in??? > > > > [image: http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] > > > > > > *Mark Craig *Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/mckearn2 at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13126 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: not available URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Thu Aug 23 13:46:14 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 19:46:14 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> Awesome thank you, haven?t heard a word from anyone on this and thought I might be disconnected from the site?????? [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: McKearn McKearn [mailto:mckearn2 at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2018 2:40 PM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Cc: fot-bounces at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net; Rick ; fubog1 Subject: Re: [Fot] Spit Axles Hey Mark. Not sure of the specific axle your talking about but if it's similar to my old jeep, it should be easy enough to make a shrink fit collar to retain the axle. Make a sleeve which is .001 / inch of diameter smaller than the axle. So 1.25 x.001= .00125 dia. smaller in the case of a 1.25 dia. axle. Heat it up and put it on. When it cools , it will not come off... If you do need to remove it you can probably get it off by reheating. The reheating end of things can be a little iffee.. Most decent machine shops can make an accurate sleeve. P.J. Need some info and help!! Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it?ll come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold replacement press on retaining rings. So I went to the local industrial bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they got the inner needle bearings I need but they say they haven?t seen a press on retainer ring in a zillion years. So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what the heck do I do now?? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and nada. Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the car parked that I just put a new engine in??? [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 13119 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image007.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image007.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image008.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image008.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image009.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image009.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image010.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image010.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image011.png Type: image/png Size: 13126 bytes Desc: image011.png URL: From vangoughv at hotmail.com Thu Aug 23 19:08:59 2018 From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2018 01:08:59 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> Checkuered flag racing could probably give you good advice, parts etc. I may be converting my GT6+ to their rear axle set up for racing spitfires. Vince Need some info and help!! Had to take a rear axle disc brake set up off a SCCA Spit so I can run it in vintage. To do that you got to remove the axle bearings. To remove the axle bearings you have to use a chisel and pop one or both sides of the press on axle bearing retaining ring to spread it a small amount so it?ll come off the axle. Then the bearing can come of and the brake backing plate comes off. Iinstallation is the opposite except you use a drum brake backing plates. When I used to work for BCA a thousand years ago we sold replacement press on retaining rings. So I went to the local industrial bearing distributor, they got the roller bearings, they got the seals they got the inner needle bearings I need but they say they haven?t seen a press on retainer ring in a zillion years. So these are Sommers Bros axles, that are probably 15-20 years old, what the heck do I do now?? I have searched the web, called a lot of places and nada. Anybody got an idea?? I got a pair of axles that are no good that keep the car parked that I just put a new engine in??? Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Aug 29 05:08:02 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 07:08:02 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? #1 cause of failure- dirt 40+%. #2 cause of failure- assembly error 40+% (note assemblers responsibility to ensure parts are to spec) This is part of the problem with rebuilt failures, it isn't all "defective parts". HTH Glen problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. -----Original Message----- From: Chris Marx via Fot To: tr4racing ; pegandbobm ; rkrantz77 ; fot ; Fubog1 Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 5:37 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? Let me add: Standard means?.from factory Tuning means?..from so called ?experts? I don?t know how much experts they are but one thing is obvious. In the past, Triumph seems not to have much trouble with camshafts?..problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. This is always suspicious to me. Cheers Chris Von: tr4racing at googlemail.com Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Juli 2018 07:54 An: pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: AW: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? I had a look around German forums and it seems to be a difference between tuning and standard engines. Standard ? flat Tuning ? domed. Von: pegandbobm at aol.com Gesendet: Montag, 23. Juli 2018 22:17 An: rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? Not an expert but I WILL GUARANTEE the lifters in my air cooled German made VW Formula Vee engine have a slight radius/angle. I check this before each rebuild to ensure they have not flatten. Pre-Trump I think Germany was still considered part of Europe> Bob -----Original Message----- From: Ron KRANTZ via Fot To: Christian Marx via Fot ; Fubog1 at aol. com ; Christian Marx Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 1:46 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? The reason for a slight angel on the lifter is to keep it from digging into the ramp on the cam lobe due to an aggressive acceleration design. Typical American (cannot say what European mfg. does) lifters have approximately a 60 inch radius. I even have an additional edge radius put on the lifters. The cam lobes have a slight taper side to side for rotating the lifter. Lift on a cam is limited by base circle radius which in turn is limited by cam bearing diameter. Then you get into duration and how fast you can get the valve open. All the Triumph "flat" tappets I have ever seen have a slight radius. The rules say you must retain the same type (flat, roller, mushroom) lifter as stock. My question is "how flat is flat". Rule does not say the lifter has to rotate. If a lifter has a 0.75 inch radius across the lifter diameter and no taper on the cam lobe,you can keep the lifter from rotating and accelerate the cam opening very fast. Think about that. On July 23, 2018 at 8:46 AM Christian Marx via Fot wrote: This may be true for American engines. All European engines have no angel in the Cam shaft. And all the tappets, lifters, rollers, are flat. Dead flat. No light with an edge on it. So maybe this is just an American thing? Cheers Chris fubog1 < fubog1 at aol.com> schrieb am Mo., 23. Juli 2018, 15:40: This is well covered in many engine-building books & I've discussed it at length with several camshaft engineers over the years. It's my understanding that the lobe should have a very slight angle ground in, and the "flat" tappet really isn't, it's very slightly convex. This will give it rotation, if it doesn't rotate it will wear. There could also be spring pressure or lubrication issues? In any case I would discuss it with the tappet supplier before doing anything, at the least make sure that they are sufficiently hard to begin with and can be reground. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Christian Marx via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> To: fot at autox. team. net < fot at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 6:04 am Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? In the past we had this discussion. I've bought some high quality lifters from USA, made from tool steel I suppose. 400$ they've cost..... and started to fail. On 3 of them, the very center does show e few pittings. Also visible that only a small part of the Cam is used.. The cam is okay The machine shop will grind the lifters dead flat, as they should be, they say. Cheers Chris Am 18.07.2018 02:12 schrieb "fubog1 via Fot" < fot at autox.team.net>: Yes, lacking access to a Cam Doc, you can use a set of V or bearing blocks, a degree wheel, dial indicator, and a bit of time, checked at 5 cam degrees, works fine. I'm still old school though, I plot them out on graph paper! That will give you the lobe profile but most folks don't have the full specs on the cam, usually just advertised lift and duration. Since the tip of the lobe usually starts to go away first, a simple lift measurement will reveal the worst, best done with a dial indicator cuz some (cheap) cams are ground on different base circles. Generally, ramp wear is unusual if the tip is still OK, although there can be exceptions. Glen. -----Original Message----- From: timmmurphh < timmmurphh at gmail.com> To: 'fubog1' < fubog1 at aol.com>; rbtr3a < rbtr3a at cox.net> Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 12:38 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] Cams By degreeing the cam using increments of 10 crankshaft degrees (5 camshaft degrees) and then plotting the results in Excel, it is possible to get a very accurate picture of the profile of the cam. I?ve attached a spreadsheet showing an intake and exhaust lobe comparison two years apart of our Kastner G3 cam for reference. Tim Murphy #317 TR4 From: Fot On Behalf Of fubog1 via Fot Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 6:31 AM To: rbtr3a at cox.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Cams Generally any obvious wear or pitting would make it unserviceable, but the wear isn't always so obvious. You can measure the lift and compare to spec, that will show any worn lobes, but the best way is to find someone who has a "cam doctor". It's a machine that sets it up and measures the complete profile. Usually if there is anything apparent that suggests that there may be problems, there are... Glen -----Original Message----- From: rbtr3a--- via Fot To: fot Sent: Sun, Jul 15, 2018 6:47 pm Subject: [Fot] Cams How do I determine if a cam is good or bad. If there are any marks on it does that make it bad. I do know that two of the lifters has pitting on the surface. Ronnie _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gasket.works at gte.net Wed Aug 29 10:00:40 2018 From: gasket.works at gte.net (Mordy Dunst) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 12:00:40 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? My Cam grinder has ground cams for me for some time. He places a very slight finish on the cam lobe and a very slight radius on tappet face .? The radius is perhaps 60"?? He wont say.? He has not changed the setup on his lifter grinding machine.? I have not had issues at all with his cam grinds nor of his re-faced lifters. So, speak to your cam grinder see what they recommend. MDunst Headgasket.com instagram; gasket.worksr 626.358.1616 T 626.628.3777 F Triple R Munitions, Inc instagram; triplermunitions 626.201.9471 T FFL 6,7 SOT 2 -----Original Message----- From: Chris Marx via Fot To: tr4racing ; pegandbobm ; rkrantz77 ; fot ; Fubog1 Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 3:00 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? Let me add: Standard means?.from factory Tuning means?..from so called ?experts? I don?t know how much experts they are but one thing is obvious. In the past, Triumph seems not to have much trouble with camshafts?..problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. This is always suspicious to me. ? Cheers Chris ? Von: tr4racing at googlemail.com Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Juli 2018 07:54 An: pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: AW: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? ? I had a look around German forums and it seems to be a difference between tuning and standard engines. Standard ? flat Tuning ? domed. ? ? ? Von: pegandbobm at aol.com Gesendet: Montag, 23. Juli 2018 22:17 An: rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? ? Not an expert but I WILL GUARANTEE the lifters in my air cooled German made VW Formula Vee engine have a slight radius/angle.? I check this before each rebuild to ensure they have not flatten.? ?Pre-Trump I think Germany was still considered part of Europe> ?Bob? ? -----Original Message----- From: Ron KRANTZ via Fot To: Christian Marx via Fot ; Fubog1 at aol. com ; Christian Marx Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 1:46 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? The reason for a slight angel on the lifter is to keep it from digging into the ramp on the cam lobe due to an aggressive acceleration design.? Typical American (cannot say what European mfg. does) lifters have approximately a 60 inch radius.? I even have an additional edge radius put on the lifters.? The cam lobes have a slight taper side to side for rotating the lifter.? Lift on a cam is limited by base circle radius which in turn is limited by cam bearing diameter.? Then you get into duration and how fast you can get the valve open.? All the Triumph "flat" tappets I have ever seen have a slight radius.? The rules say you must retain the same type (flat, roller, mushroom) lifter as stock.? My question is "how flat is flat".? Rule does not say the lifter has to rotate.? If a lifter has a 0.75 inch radius across the lifter diameter and no taper on the cam lobe,you can keep the lifter from rotating and accelerate the cam opening very fast.? Think about that. On July 23, 2018 at 8:46 AM Christian Marx via Fot wrote: This may be true for American engines. ? All European engines have no angel in the Cam shaft. And all the tappets, lifters, rollers, are flat. Dead flat. No light with an edge on it. ? So maybe this is just an American thing? ? ? Cheers Chris ? fubog1 < fubog1 at aol.com> schrieb am Mo., 23. Juli 2018, 15:40: This is well covered in many engine-building books & I've discussed it at length with several camshaft engineers over the years. It's my understanding that the lobe should have a very slight angle ground in, and the "flat" tappet really isn't, it's very slightly convex. This will give it rotation, if it doesn't rotate it will wear. There could also be spring pressure or lubrication issues? In any case I would discuss it with the tappet supplier before doing anything, at the least make sure that they are sufficiently hard to begin with and can be reground. ? Glen ? ? ? -----Original Message----- From: Christian Marx via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> To: fot at autox. team. net < fot at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 6:04 am Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? In the past we had this discussion. I've bought some high quality lifters from USA, made from tool steel I suppose. 400$ they've cost..... and started to fail. On 3 of them, the very center does show e few pittings. Also visible that only a small part of the Cam is used.. The cam is okay ? ? The machine shop will grind the lifters dead flat, as they should be, they say. ? Cheers Chris ? Am 18.07.2018 02:12 schrieb "fubog1 via Fot" < fot at autox.team.net>: Yes, lacking access to a Cam Doc, you can use a set of V or bearing blocks, a degree wheel, dial indicator, and a bit of time, checked at 5 cam degrees, works fine. I'm still old school though, I plot them out on graph paper! That will give you the lobe profile but most folks don't have the full specs on the cam, usually just advertised lift and duration. Since the tip of the lobe usually starts to go away first, a simple lift measurement will reveal the worst, best done with a dial indicator cuz some (cheap) cams are ground on different base circles. Generally, ramp wear is unusual if the tip is still OK, although there can be exceptions. ? Glen. ? ? ? ? -----Original Message----- From: timmmurphh < timmmurphh at gmail.com> To: 'fubog1' < fubog1 at aol.com>; rbtr3a < rbtr3a at cox.net> Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 12:38 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] Cams By degreeing the cam using increments of 10 crankshaft degrees (5 camshaft degrees) and then plotting the results in Excel, it is possible to get a very accurate picture of the profile of the cam. ? I?ve attached a spreadsheet showing an intake and exhaust lobe comparison two years apart of our Kastner G3 cam for reference. ? Tim Murphy #317 TR4 ? From: Fot On Behalf Of fubog1 via Fot Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 6:31 AM To: rbtr3a at cox.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Cams ? Generally any obvious wear or pitting would make it unserviceable, but the wear isn't always so obvious. You can measure the lift and compare to spec, that will show any worn lobes, but the best way is to find someone who has a "cam doctor". It's a machine that sets it up and measures the complete profile. Usually if there is anything apparent that suggests that there may be problems, there are... ? Glen ? ? -----Original Message----- From: rbtr3a--- via Fot To: fot Sent: Sun, Jul 15, 2018 6:47 pm Subject: [Fot] Cams How do I determine if a cam is good or bad. If there are any marks on it does that make it bad. I do know that two of the lifters has pitting on the surface. Ronnie _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 16:05:43 2018 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 17:05:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 89MM piston question Do the guys running the 89MM pistons and liners need to relieve the liners to clear the intake valve, or does the extra MM make the difference? Bob Kramer On Tue, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com Thu Aug 30 14:10:44 2018 From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 16:10:44 -0400 Subject: [Fot] PittRace Question Does PittRace have WiFi, specifically in the North Paddock? Russ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britcars at bellsouth.net Wed Aug 29 05:37:47 2018 From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 11:37:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] best gearbox for TR6 more... References: <42ff946f-80c0-5092-955a-9f5d6f26f6e3@pobox.com> <164b3dfa5f3-c92-cf76@webjas-vac220.srv.aolmail.net> <1229176934.7475844.1532037420166@mail.yahoo.com> <1F58DEDC-E5B8-43E6-870A-6D9659E5296D@icloud.com> My last TR4A race car ran with a TR6 close ratio box with the J type overdrive. It used 90w gear oil and shifted instantaneous. Before the toggle switch had completed it's travel, it was in overdrive. The J type is very strong and reliable and lighter than the A type. Look up Gearvendors.com. They sell a J type overdrive to go behind 3,500 hp dragsters, 30,000 lb motor homes and some of their parts will fit the Triumph J type overdrive. Barry From: Randall via Fot To: Greg Blake ; Greg Blake via Fot ; Jack Wheeler Cc: "fot at autox.team.net" ; fubog1 Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2018 4:29 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] best gearbox for TR6 more... If you do, be sure to check for coil bind. I shimmed mine just a little too much, so the ports would only partially open. Pressure looked fine at low rpm on the bench, but went way high in service. -- Randall On 19 July 2018 20:59:03 GMT-04:00, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: Hit send too soon. What pressure did you run on the large piston A type? ?I?ve gotMine set at 370psi and it shifts nearly instantly on the bench. Wondering if I should add another shim to get closer to 400psi.? Sent from my iPhone On Jul 19, 2018, at 4:57 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Hi Glen.? I agree with most of your comments.? I raced a TR-4 in SCCA for 24 years, and used both close ratio, and stock ratio gearboxes with, and without overdrive.? I always used the later housings (TR-4A - TR-6) and the "A" Type overdrive, and I did all my own maintenance.? Early in my career, I always thought a straight 4 speed (without overdrive) would be more efficient for racing, due to less parasitic losses.? When close ratio gears became legal (about 1980), I thought this would be a big improvement over the overdrive option.? I had all 6 gear sets set up for my IRS car, so I could gear to use either transmission option at all the tracks I raced at. However, after years of experimenting at Road Atlanta, during The Runoffs, I concluded that using a close ratio overdrive gearbox with the 4.3 rear end gear was about 1 second per lap faster than using a straight 4 speed with the 3.7 rear end gear.? The 4.3 rear gear gave me a more usable second gear for some tight turns (like turn 7 at Atlanta) than the 3.7 rear gear.? I also tried the 4.1 rear gear with the straight 4 Speed, but the overdrive option was still faster. I did less research at other tracks, but long tracks with tight turns (like Road America) would certainly favor the overdrive option.? There may not be as much difference on short, tighter tracks.? But, numbers don't lie, and a second a lap was worth it to me, to learn about building and maintaining overdrives, with high pump pressure for quicker shifting.? And, I found them to be very reliable mechanically.? The only problems I ever had were electrical. Take it for what it's worth, but that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it! Jack On Thursday, July 19, 2018, 5:30:21 PM EDT, fubog1 via Fot wrote: In all fairness to the conversion advocates, in spite of the benefit of both intermediate gearing & the extra top gear with the O/D unit, there are some downsides to the O/D.First, it's getting hard to find good units, a lot of what I run into is junk. These have been in high demand since forever, I've bought many junk TRs just for the overdrives.As Larry pointed out, there are alternatives, ie Volvo, but then you have to mod it to suit.Unless you find a guaranteed plug-and-play TR box & O/D assembly, you'll most likely be having to go through the gearbox as well, and certainly if you're converting a standard gearbox to overdrive cuz' the mainshaft is different.That leads to another problem, parts availability for overdrive parts is a bit limited, especially some of the early A-type stuff, and as is normal these days, quality is always a big concern.Then if you have a rebuildable unit, and all of the parts, it has to be properly rebuilt, by the book.It's a fairly labor-intensive job and requires some degree of mechanical finesse. If you have to pay someone to do the entire job, the cost could easily get up there to the point where a conversion gets more attractive. There are also a few other negatives, the TR box & O/D unit may weigh more than some alternative units, there is some very slight power loss with the O/D, and some replacements may have better ratios available. Having said (typed) this, for a street car, a later TR-6 box, with the 17 tooth laygear, better 1st ratio & much-improved 2nd mainshaft gear, with a J-type on the back of it is hard to improve on.For racing, late 6 box with a set of close ratio gears & a "big piston" A-type works well. I see both side of the argument but personally I like the TRs as TRs, iff'n in doesn't say Stanpart on it, I'm not interested (grin). Glen -----Original Message----- From: Larry Young via Fot To: fot Sent: Thu, Jul 19, 2018 12:32 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] best gearbox for TR6 Yeah, Glen is right. I should have shut up. I did a cost comparison a few years ago. Someone was making a Ford 5 speed conversion also. The cost was more or less the same, but of course, it depends on how much you are going to do yourself. I have heard the Toyota boxes are getting scarce also ($550 seems like a lot). Quantum Mechanics does (or did) a turnkey A or J type overdrive. He has everything you need to convert a Volvo J-type to any of the TR series. I've helped a couple of guys do this conversion. Volvo's from the 80's are relatively unloved, so a couple years ago I could find the Volvo J-types on Ebay for $150. Of course, buying the Volvo overdrive or a Toyota 5 speed is just the tip of the iceberg. If you want a turnkey deal that you install, you're probably looking at $2500 - $3000 regardless of the route you go. If you do everything yourself, you can probably get by for half that. I've had my TR250 from new and didn't have an overdrive until 5 years ago. I did a 7,000 mile road trip in it a couple of years ago and found all 7 speeds to be useful. Even 2nd OD was nice when stuck behind an RV going up a mountain pass. Like I said, I should have kept quiet, but my point is that I think you will find the cost similar regardless of the direction you go. It really boils down to what you prefer. ?- Larry On 7/19/2018 7:43 AM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: I dunno larry, I got my conversion from Eaglegate, who was also from New Mexico, and it bolted in. Plug and play. Works great, shifts smoothly, and? (so far!) reliable. Me being me, at the time, '13 I think, I picked up two spare transmissions. Celica W58. For about $175 each. A friend with a wrecking yard looked them? up yesterday: around $550. No, they are not for sale! I believe a guy in Kansas City took over Eaglegate. If anyone is interested, I could look it up. Cheers, Bill On 7/18/2018 11:56 PM, Larry Young via Fot wrote: I'd rather have an A-type (or even a J) overdrive - 7 gears, easier to shift, easier to install, probably less expensive - What's not to like? Keep the wife definitely. ?- Larry On 7/14/2018 4:13 PM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote: Is the HVDA conversion kit for the Toyota 5 speed still available since Herman?s passing? Dusty? Sent from my iPhone On Jul 12, 2018, at 8:05 PM, Bobby Whitehead via Fot wrote: My wife is trying to convince me to keep our 1971 TR6 we've owned for 26 years...mhhhh.... I told her if we did I needed an overdrive or 5th gear...what's the best conversion? Bobby Whitehead Jester's Racing _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/nicholsondustin at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Aug 29 10:33:42 2018 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 10:33:42 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spit Axles References: <041b4ffb7b334e0888f9dbe31f3e4a1b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <34c350871520461aa5c4c70a0e042beb@dieselperformanceparts.com> Mark, I tried sending these pics before, hope they make it this time. Is the brass looking piece in the pics what you need? Bud -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: thumb_IMG_6365_1024.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 78129 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: thumb_IMG_6368_1024.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 53875 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Thu Aug 30 12:20:31 2018 From: Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2018 11:20:31 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? I bought my 1964 Morgan +4 new in 1965. When I first took the engine apart to modify it for more power at around 16,000 miles, there were two lifters in the engine that were not rotating! They had "butterfly" wear patterns on the bottom of the lifters caused by the lifter oscillating back and forth. So this is a fault in the original production of the engine. Over the years, whenever I have taken apart what I believe to have been "virgin" engines, I have ALWAYS come across 2 or 3 lifters in each engine that have not been rotating. When they don't rotate, they eventually pit and fail, then damage the camshaft. The original cam lobes were flat, not tapered, and relied on the offset of the tappet bores in the block from the center of the cam lobes to induce rotation. It was not enough! All or our cams are ground with a taper to the lobes that matches the offset of the lifter bores in the block to the cam lobes. This means that 4 lobes have a taper in one direction and 4 lobes are tapered in the other direction. The tappets are ground with a crown to match. Since we have been doing that, all the lifters rotate consistently, and if the lifters are hard enough, we do not have excessive wear problems unless poor quality oil is used or the break in procedures and not correctly followed. Greg Solow The Engine Room Sports Car Specialists Santa Cruz, CA 95060 831 429-1800 ------- Original Message ------- >From : fubog1 via Fot[mailto:fot at autox.team.net] Sent : 8/29/2018 4:08:02 AM To : tr4racing at googlemail.com; pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net Cc : Subject : RE: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? #1 cause of failure- dirt 40+%. #2 cause of failure- assembly error 40+% (note assemblers responsibility to ensure parts are to spec) This is part of the problem with rebuilt failures, it isn't all "defective parts". HTH Glen problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. -----Original Message----- From: Chris Marx via Fot To: tr4racing ; pegandbobm ; rkrantz77 ; fot ; Fubog1 Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 5:37 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? #AOLMsgPart_1.2_51b0e82b-6923-4884-aaee-ebe3d9794a06 td{color: black;} @font-face {font-family:Helvetica; panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;}@font-face {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}@font-face {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}.aolReplacedBody p.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody li.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody div.aolmail_MsoNormal {margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody a:link,.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_MsoHyperlink {mso-style-priority:99; color:blue; text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody a:visited,.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_MsoHyperlinkFollowed {mso-style-priority:99; color:purple; text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody p.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody li.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody div.aolmail_msonormal0 {mso-style-name:msonormal; mso-margin-top-alt:auto; margin-right:0cm; mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto; margin-left:0cm; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage18 {mso-style-type:personal; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage21 {mso-style-type:personal-reply; font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody .aolmail_MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; font-size:10.0pt;}@page WordSection1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt;}.aolReplacedBody div.aolmail_WordSection1 {page:WordSection1;} Let me add: Standard means?.from factory Tuning means?..from so called ?experts? I don?t know how much experts they are but one thing is obvious. In the past, Triumph seems not to have much trouble with camshafts?..problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. This is always suspicious to me. Cheers Chris Von: tr4racing at googlemail.com Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Juli 2018 07:54 An: pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: AW: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? I had a look around German forums and it seems to be a difference between tuning and standard engines. Standard ? flat Tuning ? domed. Von: pegandbobm at aol.com Gesendet: Montag, 23. Juli 2018 22:17 An: rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? Not an expert but I WILL GUARANTEE the lifters in my air cooled German made VW Formula Vee engine have a slight radius/angle. I check this before each rebuild to ensure they have not flatten. Pre-Trump I think Germany was still considered part of Europe> Bob -----Original Message----- From: Ron KRANTZ via Fot To: Christian Marx via Fot ; Fubog1 at aol. com ; Christian Marx Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 1:46 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? The reason for a slight angel on the lifter is to keep it from digging into the ramp on the cam lobe due to an aggressive acceleration design. Typical American (cannot say what European mfg. does) lifters have approximately a 60 inch radius. I even have an additional edge radius put on the lifters. The cam lobes have a slight taper side to side for rotating the lifter. Lift on a cam is limited by base circle radius which in turn is limited by cam bearing diameter. Then you get into duration and how fast you can get the valve open. All the Triumph "flat" tappets I have ever seen have a slight radius. The rules say you must retain the same type (flat, roller, mushroom) lifter as stock. My question is "how flat is flat". Rule does not say the lifter has to rotate. If a lifter has a 0.75 inch radius across the lifter diameter and no taper on the cam lobe,you can keep the lifter from rotating and accelerate the cam opening very fast. Think about that. On July 23, 2018 at 8:46 AM Christian Marx via Fot wrote: This may be true for American engines. All European engines have no angel in the Cam shaft. And all the tappets, lifters, rollers, are flat. Dead flat. No light with an edge on it. So maybe this is just an American thing? Cheers Chris fubog1 < fubog1 at aol.com> schrieb am Mo., 23. Juli 2018, 15:40: This is well covered in many engine-building books & I've discussed it at length with several camshaft engineers over the years. It's my understanding that the lobe should have a very slight angle ground in, and the "flat" tappet really isn't, it's very slightly convex. This will give it rotation, if it doesn't rotate it will wear. There could also be spring pressure or lubrication issues? In any case I would discuss it with the tappet supplier before doing anything, at the least make sure that they are sufficiently hard to begin with and can be reground. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Christian Marx via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> To: fot at autox. team. net < fot at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 6:04 am Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? In the past we had this discussion. I've bought some high quality lifters from USA, made from tool steel I suppose. 400$ they've cost..... and started to fail. On 3 of them, the very center does show e few pittings. Also visible that only a small part of the Cam is used.. The cam is okay The machine shop will grind the lifters dead flat, as they should be, they say. Cheers Chris Am 18.07.2018 02:12 schrieb "fubog1 via Fot" < fot at autox.team.net>: Yes, lacking access to a Cam Doc, you can use a set of V or bearing blocks, a degree wheel, dial indicator, and a bit of time, checked at 5 cam degrees, works fine. I'm still old school though, I plot them out on graph paper! That will give you the lobe profile but most folks don't have the full specs on the cam, usually just advertised lift and duration. Since the tip of the lobe usually starts to go away first, a simple lift measurement will reveal the worst, best done with a dial indicator cuz some (cheap) cams are ground on different base circles. Generally, ramp wear is unusual if the tip is still OK, although there can be exceptions. Glen. -----Original Message----- From: timmmurphh < timmmurphh at gmail.com> To: 'fubog1' < fubog1 at aol.com>; rbtr3a < rbtr3a at cox.net> Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 12:38 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] Cams By degreeing the cam using increments of 10 crankshaft degrees (5 camshaft degrees) and then plotting the results in Excel, it is possible to get a very accurate picture of the profile of the cam. I?ve attached a spreadsheet showing an intake and exhaust lobe comparison two years apart of our Kastner G3 cam for reference. Tim Murphy #317 TR4 From: Fot On Behalf Of fubog1 via Fot Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 6:31 AM To: rbtr3a at cox.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Cams Generally any obvious wear or pitting would make it unserviceable, but the wear isn't always so obvious. You can measure the lift and compare to spec, that will show any worn lobes, but the best way is to find someone who has a "cam doctor". It's a machine that sets it up and measures the complete profile. Usually if there is anything apparent that suggests that there may be problems, there are... Glen -----Original Message----- From: rbtr3a--- via Fot To: fot Sent: Sun, Jul 15, 2018 6:47 pm Subject: [Fot] Cams How do I determine if a cam is good or bad. If there are any marks on it does that make it bad. I do know that two of the lifters has pitting on the surface. Ronnie _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pegandbobm at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com From tr4racing at googlemail.com Fri Aug 31 08:21:31 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 16:21:31 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA Hi Guys, at the last weekend I had time to test the TR8 and messed with tire pressures, camber, spring rates and stuff. It went that far, that the rear springs are softer now than they was. That helped a little to cure the oversteer. Next step will be to try out different tire compounds. At the track side was a tire truck and the people were helpful to examine the tire surface. It seems the front comes on temperature while the rear end stays cold. So they suggested to test medium compound at front, and soft compound at rear. And they said, I'm a too gentle driver and I'm not using the tire enough, which is bad for their business as with this kind of driving, the tires will last ages. In one week the car goes to Le Mans - the small track - and there I can test the car further while racing. I'm curious how the soft rear tires will perform. Cheers Chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Aug 31 09:17:24 2018 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 10:17:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? References: Greg, Thanks for posting this. I have seen the same thing in "virgin" engines, but have not taken so many apart. I was hoping you or Glen or someone with more experience would chime in. - Larry On 8/30/2018 1:20 PM, Gregmogdoc--- via Fot wrote: > I bought my 1964 Morgan +4 new in 1965. When I first > took the engine apart to modify it for more power at > around 16,000 miles, there were two lifters in the > engine that were not rotating! They had "butterfly" > wear patterns on the bottom of the lifters caused by > the lifter oscillating back and forth. So this is a > fault in the original production of the engine. > Over the years, whenever I have taken apart what I > believe to have been "virgin" engines, I have ALWAYS > come across 2 or 3 lifters in each engine that have > not been rotating. When they don't rotate, they > eventually pit and fail, then damage the camshaft. > The original cam lobes were flat, not tapered, and > relied on the offset of the tappet bores in the block > from the center of the cam lobes to induce rotation. > It was not enough! All or our cams are ground with a > taper to the lobes that matches the offset of the > lifter bores in the block to the cam lobes. This > means that 4 lobes have a taper in one direction and > 4 lobes are tapered in the other direction. The > tappets are ground with a crown to match. Since we > have been doing that, all the lifters rotate > consistently, and if the lifters are hard enough, we > do not have excessive wear problems unless poor > quality oil is used or the break in procedures and > not correctly followed. > > > Greg Solow > The Engine Room > Sports Car Specialists > Santa Cruz, CA 95060 > 831 429-1800 > > > > ------- Original Message ------- > From : fubog1 via Fot[mailto:fot at autox.team.net] > Sent : 8/29/2018 4:08:02 AM > To : tr4racing at googlemail.com; > pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; > fot at autox.team.net > Cc : > Subject : RE: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > #1 cause of failure- dirt 40+%. > > #2 cause of failure- assembly error 40+% (note > assemblers responsibility to ensure parts are to spec) > > > > > > > > This is part of the problem with rebuilt failures, it > isn't all "defective parts". > > HTH > > Glen > > > > problems came in when people used aftermarket parts > or tuning parts. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Chris Marx via Fot > > To: tr4racing ; pegandbobm > ; rkrantz77 > ; fot ; > Fubog1 > > Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 5:37 am > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > > > #AOLMsgPart_1.2_51b0e82b-6923-4884-aaee-ebe3d9794a06 > td{color: black;} @font-face {font-family:Helvetica; > panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;}@font-face > {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 > 2 4;}@font-face {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 > 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}.aolReplacedBody > p.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody > li.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody > div.aolmail_MsoNormal {margin:0cm; > margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:11.0pt; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody > a:link,.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_MsoHyperlink > {mso-style-priority:99; color:blue; > text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody > a:visited,.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_MsoHyperlinkFollowed > {mso-style-priority:99; color:purple; > text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody > p.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody > li.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody > div.aolmail_msonormal0 {mso-style-name:msonormal; > mso-margin-top-alt:auto; margin-right:0cm; > mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto; margin-left:0cm; > font-size:11.0pt; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage18 > {mso-style-type:personal; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; > color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage21 > {mso-style-type:personal-reply; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; > color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody > .aolmail_MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; > font-size:10.0pt;}@page WordSection1 {size:612.0pt > 792.0pt; margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm > 70.85pt;}.aolReplacedBody div.aolmail_WordSection1 > {page:WordSection1;} > > > Let me add: > > Standard means?.from factory > > Tuning means?..from so called ?experts? > > I don?t know how much experts they are but one thing > is obvious. > > In the past, Triumph seems not to have much trouble > with camshafts?..problems came in when people used > aftermarket parts or tuning parts. > > This is always suspicious to me. > > > > Cheers > > Chris > > > > > > Von: tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Juli 2018 07:54 > > An: pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; > fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; > tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Betreff: AW: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > > I had a look around German forums and it seems to be > a difference between tuning and standard engines. > > Standard ? flat > > Tuning ? domed. > > > > > > > > Von: pegandbobm at aol.com > > Gesendet: Montag, 23. Juli 2018 22:17 > > An: rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; > Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > Not an expert but I WILL GUARANTEE the lifters in my > air cooled German made VW Formula Vee engine have a > slight radius/angle. I check this before each > rebuild to ensure they have not flatten. Pre-Trump > I think Germany was still considered part of Europe> > > > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Ron KRANTZ via Fot > > To: Christian Marx via Fot ; > Fubog1 at aol. com ; Christian Marx > > > Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 1:46 pm > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > The reason for a slight angel on the lifter is to > keep it from digging into the ramp on the cam lobe > due to an aggressive acceleration design. Typical > American (cannot say what European mfg. does) lifters > have approximately a 60 inch radius. I even have an > additional edge radius put on the lifters. The cam > lobes have a slight taper side to side for rotating > the lifter. Lift on a cam is limited by base circle > radius which in turn is limited by cam bearing > diameter. Then you get into duration and how fast > you can get the valve open. All the Triumph "flat" > tappets I have ever seen have a slight radius. The > rules say you must retain the same type (flat, > roller, mushroom) lifter as stock. My question is > "how flat is flat". Rule does not say the lifter has > to rotate. If a lifter has a 0.75 inch radius across > the lifter diameter and no taper on the cam lobe,you > can keep the lifter from rotating and accelerate the > cam opening very fast. Think about that. > > > On July 23, 2018 at 8:46 AM Christian Marx via Fot > wrote: > > > This may be true for American engines. > > > > > > > All European engines have no angel in the Cam shaft. > And all the tappets, lifters, rollers, are flat. Dead > flat. No light with an edge on it. > > > > > > > > So maybe this is just an American thing? > > > > > > > > > > > > Cheers Chris > > > > > > > > fubog1 < fubog1 at aol.com> schrieb am Mo., 23. Juli > 2018, 15:40: > > > > This is well covered in many engine-building books & > I've discussed it at length with several camshaft > engineers over the years. > > > > It's my understanding that the lobe should have a > very slight angle ground in, and the "flat" tappet > really isn't, it's very slightly convex. > > > > This will give it rotation, if it doesn't rotate it > will wear. > > > > There could also be spring pressure or lubrication > issues? > > > > In any case I would discuss it with the tappet > supplier before doing anything, at the least make > sure that they are sufficiently hard to begin with > and can be reground. > > > > > > > > Glen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Christian Marx via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> > > To: fot at autox. team. net < fot at autox.team.net> > > Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 6:04 am > > Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > In the past we had this discussion. > > > I've bought some high quality lifters from USA, made > from tool steel I suppose. 400$ they've cost..... and > started to fail. On 3 of them, the very center does > show e few pittings. Also visible that only a small > part of the Cam is used.. The cam is okay > > > > > > > > > > > > The machine shop will grind the lifters dead flat, as > they should be, they say. > > > > > > > > Cheers > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > Am 18.07.2018 02:12 schrieb "fubog1 via Fot" < > fot at autox.team.net>: > > > Yes, lacking access to a Cam Doc, you can use a set > of V or bearing blocks, a degree wheel, dial > indicator, and a bit of time, checked at 5 cam > degrees, works fine. > > > > I'm still old school though, I plot them out on graph > paper! > > > > That will give you the lobe profile but most folks > don't have the full specs on the cam, usually just > advertised lift and duration. > > > > Since the tip of the lobe usually starts to go away > first, a simple lift measurement will reveal the > worst, best done with a dial indicator cuz some > (cheap) cams are ground on different base circles. > > > > Generally, ramp wear is unusual if the tip is still > OK, although there can be exceptions. > > > > > > > > Glen. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: timmmurphh < timmmurphh at gmail.com> > > To: 'fubog1' < fubog1 at aol.com>; rbtr3a < rbtr3a at cox.net> > > Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 12:38 pm > > Subject: RE: [Fot] Cams > > > > > > By degreeing the cam using increments of 10 > crankshaft degrees (5 camshaft degrees) and then > plotting the results in Excel, it is possible to get > a very accurate picture of the profile of the cam. > > > > > > > > I?ve attached a spreadsheet showing an intake and > exhaust lobe comparison two years apart of our > Kastner G3 cam for reference. > > > > > > > > Tim Murphy > > > > #317 TR4 > > > > > > > > From: Fot On Behalf Of > fubog1 via Fot > > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 6:31 AM > > To: rbtr3a at cox.net; fot at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Cams > > > > > > > > > Generally any obvious wear or pitting would make it > unserviceable, but the wear isn't always so obvious. > > > > > > You can measure the lift and compare to spec, that > will show any worn lobes, but the best way is to find > someone who has a "cam doctor". It's a machine that > sets it up and measures the complete profile. > > > > > > Usually if there is anything apparent that suggests > that there may be problems, there are... > > > > > > > > > > > > Glen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: rbtr3a--- via Fot > > To: fot > > Sent: Sun, Jul 15, 2018 6:47 pm > > Subject: [Fot] Cams > > > > How do I determine if a cam is good or bad. If there > are any marks on it does that make it bad. I do know > that two of the lifters has pitting on the surface. > > > > Ronnie > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pegandbobm at aol.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com > > From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Fri Aug 31 11:43:07 2018 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 19:43:07 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Fot] 89MM piston question References: Bob, It is definitely necessary to make that modification to the liners. The relieve should correspond to the shape of the combustion chambers : about 4 mm wide on a 89mm engine. Marcel Van: "fot" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Donderdag 30 augustus 2018 00:05:43 Onderwerp: [Fot] 89MM piston question Do the guys running the 89MM pistons and liners need to relieve the liners to clear the intake valve, or does the extra MM make the difference? Bob Kramer On Tue, _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Fri Aug 31 13:17:50 2018 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 14:17:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 89MM piston question References: <1722137193.1036561862.1535737387343.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> I've always used 87 MM due to the rules but everybody else seems to be using 89. The procedures are the same so It'll be the same. I blew a head gasket last time out, compression into the cooling system and blew off the bottom hose. I guess it wasn't tight enough, and scuffed two pistons before I could shut it down. Bob Kramer On Fri, Aug 31, 2018 at 12:43 PM, wrote: > Bob, > It is definitely necessary to make that modification to the liners. The > relieve should correspond to the shape of the combustion chambers : about 4 > mm wide on a 89mm engine. > Marcel > > ------------------------------ > *Van: *"fot" > *Cc: *"fot" > *Verzonden: *Donderdag 30 augustus 2018 00:05:43 > *Onderwerp: *[Fot] 89MM piston question > > Do the guys running the 89MM pistons and liners need to relieve the liners > to clear the intake valve, or does the extra MM make the difference? > > Bob Kramer > > On Tue, > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders. > marcel at telenet.be > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tlizzard at msn.com Fri Aug 31 15:36:49 2018 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2018 21:36:49 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA References: <002401d44135$eae1dd90$c0a598b0$@gmail.com> What about the anti roll bars on the car? Are you running one on the rear? Have you tried softening the rear bar or removing it? Terry Stetler Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Chris Marx via Fot Sent: Friday, August 31, 2018 10:21:31 AM To: fot at autox. team. net Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA Hi Guys, at the last weekend I had time to test the TR8 and messed with tire pressures, camber, spring rates and stuff. It went that far, that the rear springs are softer now than they was. That helped a little to cure the oversteer. Next step will be to try out different tire compounds. At the track side was a tire truck and the people were helpful to examine the tire surface. It seems the front comes on temperature while the rear end stays cold. So they suggested to test medium compound at front, and soft compound at rear. And they said, I?m a too gentle driver and I?m not using the tire enough, which is bad for their business as with this kind of driving, the tires will last ages. In one week the car goes to Le Mans ? the small track ? and there I can test the car further while racing. I?m curious how the soft rear tires will perform. Cheers Chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Fri Aug 31 16:00:06 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2018 00:00:06 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA References: <002401d44135$eae1dd90$c0a598b0$@gmail.com> The car has anti roll bars on both axles. The rear one is adjustable and currently on the softest setting. Going softer wouldn't be wise as the cornering forces are that high, that the suspension will bottoming out with no roll bar. So I'm on the softest what the car can do. 1.6 to 1.8G on cornering if things go well. Cheers Chris Von: Terry Stetler Gesendet: Freitag, 31. August 2018 23:37 An: tr4racing at googlemail.com; fot at autox. team. net Betreff: RE: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA What about the anti roll bars on the car? Are you running one on the rear? Have you tried softening the rear bar or removing it? Terry Stetler Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _____ on behalf of Chris Marx via Fot From tr4racing at googlemail.com Fri Aug 31 16:13:03 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2018 00:13:03 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA References: <002401d44135$eae1dd90$c0a598b0$@gmail.com> <8DBCAFE0-0BF1-4CF4-8DB4-CA2FA049B88A@gmail.com> Avon Biasply tires. Von: Brad Eells Gesendet: Samstag, 1. September 2018 00:10 An: tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA Curious what brand and model of tires you were working with? Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone Hi Guys, at the last weekend I had time to test the TR8 and messed with tire pressures, camber, spring rates and stuff. It went that far, that the rear springs are softer now than they was. That helped a little to cure the oversteer. Next step will be to try out different tire compounds. At the track side was a tire truck and the people were helpful to examine the tire surface. It seems the front comes on temperature while the rear end stays cold. So they suggested to test medium compound at front, and soft compound at rear. And they said, I?m a too gentle driver and I?m not using the tire enough, which is bad for their business as with this kind of driving, the tires will last ages. In one week the car goes to Le Mans ? the small track ? and there I can test the car further while racing. I?m curious how the soft rear tires will perform. Cheers Chris _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Fri Aug 31 16:42:50 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2018 00:42:50 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? References: Camshafts with an angled lobe are maybe available in USA but totally uncommon in Europe. No camshaft grinder would angle the grinding wheel to grind 4 lobes in one direction and the 4 other lobes the other way. They are all ground parallel to the shaft. And so the tappets need to be flat to rotate with the cam lobe offset. Well, the cam is now running with the tappets I've got from Tony Garmey but they have been flat ground as the tappets showed the first gentle signs of pittings at the center. In one or two years, I report how they look. Cheers Chris -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Larry Young via Fot Gesendet: Freitag, 31. August 2018 17:17 An: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? Greg, Thanks for posting this. I have seen the same thing in "virgin" engines, but have not taken so many apart. I was hoping you or Glen or someone with more experience would chime in. - Larry On 8/30/2018 1:20 PM, Gregmogdoc--- via Fot wrote: > I bought my 1964 Morgan +4 new in 1965. When I first took the engine > apart to modify it for more power at around 16,000 miles, there were > two lifters in the engine that were not rotating! They had > "butterfly" > wear patterns on the bottom of the lifters caused by the lifter > oscillating back and forth. So this is a fault in the original > production of the engine. > Over the years, whenever I have taken apart what I believe to have > been "virgin" engines, I have ALWAYS come across 2 or 3 lifters in > each engine that have not been rotating. When they don't rotate, they > eventually pit and fail, then damage the camshaft. > The original cam lobes were flat, not tapered, and relied on the > offset of the tappet bores in the block from the center of the cam > lobes to induce rotation. > It was not enough! All or our cams are ground with a taper to the > lobes that matches the offset of the lifter bores in the block to the > cam lobes. This means that 4 lobes have a taper in one direction and > 4 lobes are tapered in the other direction. The tappets are ground > with a crown to match. Since we have been doing that, all the lifters > rotate consistently, and if the lifters are hard enough, we do not > have excessive wear problems unless poor quality oil is used or the > break in procedures and not correctly followed. > > > Greg Solow > The Engine Room > Sports Car Specialists > Santa Cruz, CA 95060 > 831 429-1800 > > > > ------- Original Message ------- > From : fubog1 via Fot[mailto:fot at autox.team.net] > Sent : 8/29/2018 4:08:02 AM > To : tr4racing at googlemail.com; > pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net > Cc : > Subject : RE: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > #1 cause of failure- dirt 40+%. > > #2 cause of failure- assembly error 40+% (note assemblers > responsibility to ensure parts are to spec) > > > > > > > > This is part of the problem with rebuilt failures, it isn't all > "defective parts". > > HTH > > Glen > > > > problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or tuning parts. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Chris Marx via Fot > > To: tr4racing ; pegandbobm > ; rkrantz77 ; fot > ; > Fubog1 > > Sent: Wed, Aug 29, 2018 5:37 am > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > > > #AOLMsgPart_1.2_51b0e82b-6923-4884-aaee-ebe3d9794a06 > td{color: black;} @font-face {font-family:Helvetica; > panose-1:2 11 6 4 2 2 2 2 2 4;}@font-face {font-family:"Cambria Math"; > panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 > 2 4;}@font-face {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 > 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}.aolReplacedBody > p.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody > li.aolmail_MsoNormal,.aolReplacedBody > div.aolmail_MsoNormal {margin:0cm; > margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:11.0pt; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody > a:link,.aolReplacedBody span.aolmail_MsoHyperlink > {mso-style-priority:99; color:blue; > text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody > a:visited,.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_MsoHyperlinkFollowed > {mso-style-priority:99; color:purple; > text-decoration:underline;}.aolReplacedBody > p.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody > li.aolmail_msonormal0,.aolReplacedBody > div.aolmail_msonormal0 {mso-style-name:msonormal; > mso-margin-top-alt:auto; margin-right:0cm; mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto; > margin-left:0cm; font-size:11.0pt; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage18 > {mso-style-type:personal; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; > color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody > span.aolmail_E-MailFormatvorlage21 > {mso-style-type:personal-reply; > font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif; > color:windowtext;}.aolReplacedBody > .aolmail_MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; > font-size:10.0pt;}@page WordSection1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; > margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt;}.aolReplacedBody > div.aolmail_WordSection1 {page:WordSection1;} > > > Let me add: > > Standard means?.from factory > > Tuning means?..from so called ?experts? > > I don?t know how much experts they are but one thing is obvious. > > In the past, Triumph seems not to have much trouble with > camshafts?..problems came in when people used aftermarket parts or > tuning parts. > > This is always suspicious to me. > > > > Cheers > > Chris > > > > > > Von: tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Juli 2018 07:54 > > An: pegandbobm at aol.com; rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; > Fubog1 at aol.com; tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Betreff: AW: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > > I had a look around German forums and it seems to be a difference > between tuning and standard engines. > > Standard ? flat > > Tuning ? domed. > > > > > > > > Von: pegandbobm at aol.com > > Gesendet: Montag, 23. Juli 2018 22:17 > > An: rkrantz77 at comcast.net; fot at autox.team.net; Fubog1 at aol.com; > tr4racing at googlemail.com > > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > Not an expert but I WILL GUARANTEE the lifters in my air cooled German > made VW Formula Vee engine have a slight radius/angle. I check this > before each > rebuild to ensure they have not flatten. Pre-Trump > I think Germany was still considered part of Europe> > > > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Ron KRANTZ via Fot > > To: Christian Marx via Fot ; Fubog1 at aol. com > ; Christian Marx > > Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 1:46 pm > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > > The reason for a slight angel on the lifter is to keep it from digging > into the ramp on the cam lobe due to an aggressive acceleration > design. Typical American (cannot say what European mfg. does) lifters > have approximately a 60 inch radius. I even have an additional edge > radius put on the lifters. The cam lobes have a slight taper side to > side for rotating the lifter. Lift on a cam is limited by base circle > radius which in turn is limited by cam bearing diameter. Then you get > into duration and how fast you can get the valve open. All the > Triumph "flat" > tappets I have ever seen have a slight radius. The rules say you must > retain the same type (flat, roller, mushroom) lifter as stock. My > question is "how flat is flat". Rule does not say the lifter has to > rotate. If a lifter has a 0.75 inch radius across the lifter diameter > and no taper on the cam lobe,you can keep the lifter from rotating and > accelerate the cam opening very fast. Think about that. > > > On July 23, 2018 at 8:46 AM Christian Marx via Fot > wrote: > > > This may be true for American engines. > > > > > > > All European engines have no angel in the Cam shaft. > And all the tappets, lifters, rollers, are flat. Dead flat. No light > with an edge on it. > > > > > > > > So maybe this is just an American thing? > > > > > > > > > > > > Cheers Chris > > > > > > > > fubog1 < fubog1 at aol.com> schrieb am Mo., 23. Juli 2018, 15:40: > > > > This is well covered in many engine-building books & > I've discussed it at length with several camshaft > engineers over the years. > > > > It's my understanding that the lobe should have a > very slight angle ground in, and the "flat" tappet > really isn't, it's very slightly convex. > > > > This will give it rotation, if it doesn't rotate it > will wear. > > > > There could also be spring pressure or lubrication > issues? > > > > In any case I would discuss it with the tappet > supplier before doing anything, at the least make > sure that they are sufficiently hard to begin with > and can be reground. > > > > > > > > Glen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Christian Marx via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> > > To: fot at autox. team. net < fot at autox.team.net> > > Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 6:04 am > > Subject: [Fot] Do(o)med or flat lifters? > > > > In the past we had this discussion. > > > I've bought some high quality lifters from USA, made > from tool steel I suppose. 400$ they've cost..... and > started to fail. On 3 of them, the very center does > show e few pittings. Also visible that only a small > part of the Cam is used.. The cam is okay > > > > > > > > > > > > The machine shop will grind the lifters dead flat, as > they should be, they say. > > > > > > > > Cheers > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > Am 18.07.2018 02:12 schrieb "fubog1 via Fot" < > fot at autox.team.net>: > > > Yes, lacking access to a Cam Doc, you can use a set > of V or bearing blocks, a degree wheel, dial > indicator, and a bit of time, checked at 5 cam > degrees, works fine. > > > > I'm still old school though, I plot them out on graph > paper! > > > > That will give you the lobe profile but most folks > don't have the full specs on the cam, usually just > advertised lift and duration. > > > > Since the tip of the lobe usually starts to go away > first, a simple lift measurement will reveal the > worst, best done with a dial indicator cuz some > (cheap) cams are ground on different base circles. > > > > Generally, ramp wear is unusual if the tip is still > OK, although there can be exceptions. > > > > > > > > Glen. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: timmmurphh < timmmurphh at gmail.com> > > To: 'fubog1' < fubog1 at aol.com>; rbtr3a < rbtr3a at cox.net> > > Sent: Tue, Jul 17, 2018 12:38 pm > > Subject: RE: [Fot] Cams > > > > > > By degreeing the cam using increments of 10 > crankshaft degrees (5 camshaft degrees) and then > plotting the results in Excel, it is possible to get > a very accurate picture of the profile of the cam. > > > > > > > > I?ve attached a spreadsheet showing an intake and > exhaust lobe comparison two years apart of our > Kastner G3 cam for reference. > > > > > > > > Tim Murphy > > > > #317 TR4 > > > > > > > > From: Fot On Behalf Of > fubog1 via Fot > > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 6:31 AM > > To: rbtr3a at cox.net; fot at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Cams > > > > > > > > > Generally any obvious wear or pitting would make it > unserviceable, but the wear isn't always so obvious. > > > > > > You can measure the lift and compare to spec, that > will show any worn lobes, but the best way is to find > someone who has a "cam doctor". It's a machine that > sets it up and measures the complete profile. > > > > > > Usually if there is anything apparent that suggests > that there may be problems, there are... > > > > > > > > > > > > Glen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: rbtr3a--- via Fot > > To: fot > > Sent: Sun, Jul 15, 2018 6:47 pm > > Subject: [Fot] Cams > > > > How do I determine if a cam is good or bad. If there > are any marks on it does that make it bad. I do know > that two of the lifters has pitting on the surface. > > > > Ronnie > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/pegandbobm at aol.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot From tr4racing at googlemail.com Fri Aug 31 16:44:39 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2018 00:44:39 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA References: <002401d44135$eae1dd90$c0a598b0$@gmail.com> Hi Tony, The tires aren?t capable to hold the current power properly. More wouldn?t help much: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlYQhH0oYi0 &t=211s Cheers Chris Von: Tony and Annie Garmey Gesendet: Samstag, 1. September 2018 00:41 An: tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Settings TR8 IMSA You need more horse power ? Sent from my iPhone Hi Guys, at the last weekend I had time to test the TR8 and messed with tire pressures, camber, spring rates and stuff. It went that far, that the rear springs are softer now than they was. That helped a little to cure the oversteer. Next step will be to try out different tire compounds. At the track side was a tire truck and the people were helpful to examine the tire surface. It seems the front comes on temperature while the rear end stays cold. So they suggested to test medium compound at front, and soft compound at rear. And they said, I?m a too gentle driver and I?m not using the tire enough, which is bad for their business as with this kind of driving, the tires will last ages. In one week the car goes to Le Mans ? the small track ? and there I can test the car further while racing. I?m curious how the soft rear tires will perform. Cheers Chris _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Aug 6 18:04:26 2018 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy v6spitfireguy) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2018 20:04:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spits] Looking for Chuck Menge Listers, I am looking for Chuck menge (not sure of the spelling) but he resides in Los Angeles, has a beautiful early red round tail Spitfire (with the weld flanges ground smooth on a GT6 bonnet) with a Ford V6 installed been at several Triumphests. He tried to call me today, but got cut off just before I could get his e-mail He had a few questions for me ? If anybody can give me his email, or contact info (off list) I would be much appreciated. Barry Schwartz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Aug 6 18:04:26 2018 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy v6spitfireguy) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2018 20:04:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Spits] Looking for Chuck Menge Listers, I am looking for Chuck menge (not sure of the spelling) but he resides in Los Angeles, has a beautiful early red round tail Spitfire (with the weld flanges ground smooth on a GT6 bonnet) with a Ford V6 installed been at several Triumphests. He tried to call me today, but got cut off just before I could get his e-mail He had a few questions for me ? If anybody can give me his email, or contact info (off list) I would be much appreciated. Barry Schwartz -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: