From pvucinic at netspace.net.au Fri Mar 2 04:41:22 2018 From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2018 22:41:22 +1100 Subject: [Fot] TR7 Wheel Alignment Spec Hoping someone might have the TOE out on TURN data that missing from the specs below? Thanks in advance http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GE4X-3zWy0A/TyfIkiKPnhI/AAAAAAAABS0/D4z7SXAqWiw/s1 600/triumph_1975_wheel_alignment_specifications.JPG "You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With A Lage Fortune!" Kind Regards Peter Vucinic TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfire MkII _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 19491 bytes Desc: not available URL: From biznzman at pacbell.net Fri Mar 2 08:37:11 2018 From: biznzman at pacbell.net (STEPHEN BOROWSKI) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2018 15:37:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR4 Racer Terry Stephens Contact Info References: <903616062.7392324.1520005031682.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Anyone know Terry Stephens, TR-4 Racer in Florida phone number? He running at Sebring this weekend and I would like to talk to him but I've lost his number. Thxs. Steve B. also Florida,TR4 Racer -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Sun Mar 4 18:59:49 2018 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2018 19:59:49 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test All knowing FOT Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking? I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Video.MOV Type: video/quicktime Size: 2133206 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing. Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 5 11:04:31 2018 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 18:04:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> Hi Greg.? Here is a tip for you.? When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on.? I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.).? Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on.? This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball.? This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping.? Maybe this will help you next time.? Good luck. Jack Wheeler On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: All knowing FOT Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking? I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing. Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britcars at bellsouth.net Tue Mar 6 04:30:36 2018 From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 11:30:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> <1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com> I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger. Barry On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Hi Greg.? Here is a tip for you.? When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on.? I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.).? Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on.? This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball.? This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping.? Maybe this will help you next time.? Good luck. Jack Wheeler On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: All knowing FOT Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking? I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing. Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Mar 6 06:53:59 2018 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 08:53:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 2018 Kastner Cup TEE Shirts Trying this again, first attempt on Sunday did not go thru. FOT and Friends, 2nd Posting for 2018 Kastner Cup Tee Shirts. If you have previously responded I have your information. I need size and color GRAY or WHITE I was asked if I can have DRIVER placed on the sleeve for those who are drivers. I am looking into that and will advise. Are there any other additions that you?d like to see on the shirt. I?ll accommodate any that can be added easily. Shirts will have the poster artwork as shown above. Gray seems to be the popular choice but I can do both white and gray at this point. I have 55 orders but need more to make this work, so order soon and often. If you can not attend but want a shirt I will accommodate for a mailing fee TBD. I?ll look into overseas mailing as well. Payment will need to be via check or money order, no cash at the race please. Price depends upon number of shirts ordered by Mid May. I might be able to firm up pricing before then if we can get to 100 shirts. 45 to go. I can?t promise no rain but I can promise a good time will be had by all regardless of weather. Let?s make this the best Kastner Cup so far. It?s a tall order as each year has raised the bar. Thanks, Jerry Van Vlack 330-620-4548 cell jerryvv at roadrunner.com From: Jerry Van Vlack via Fot Sent: Monday, January 29, 2018 7:54 PM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] 2018 Kastner Cup Tee-Shirts Tee-Shirts, I?m starting early and often. I?ve agreed to coordinate the Tee-Shirt for this years event at Pitt-Race in conjunction with the Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix. To develop pricing I need a show of interest and how many you?d like. The shirt will have the event poster as the artwork, 100% cotton and a mid weight weave. Minimum quantity is 50 and based upon previous years this should be easy to attain. Initial price estimate is between $18 and $20 dollars, perhaps a bit lower if we can get to 100 shirts Sizes small to 3X large (larger than 2X will cost an additional $4.00). Color can be white or a mid gray but all will be the same. If you will not attend but want a shirt mailing will be extra and to be determined at this point. Prepayment is required as I need the cash before I order the shirts. Cut off date will be mid June unless the printer needs more time. Delivery will be at Pitt Race during the event. So please respond with your level of interest and how many you?d like. I?ll keep a record, need your name and e-mail address and color preference if it matters. Thanks, Jerry Van Vlack aka JVV jerryvv at roadrunner.com WPTA Member and long time FOT supporter via WPTA?s involvement. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mhado at att.net Tue Mar 6 07:48:34 2018 From: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 08:48:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> <1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com> <1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com> Greg, Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod. I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it. One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones. Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit. Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve. Mike Hado From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger. Barry On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck. Jack Wheeler On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: All knowing FOT Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking? I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing. Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Tue Mar 6 08:14:07 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 10:14:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2018 open for registration References: <1747A371-B285-4373-A530-A53E2CEFA7FF@voyagerhldgs.com> this event is and has been open for registration for a while. go to http://www.pvgp.org/drivers/ and you will see a registration link. Some portion of it has to be done the old fashioned way with paper and mail. On Oct 28, 2017, at 3:16 PM, James J Dolan via Fot wrote: Dear Friends of Triumph (and all who race and keep alive these glorious machines): The 2018 running of the 16th Kastner Cup will be held in conjunction with the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix July 6 - 7 ? 8, 2018. The Track Our track this year is the Pittsburgh International Race Complex (PittRace) in Wampum Pennsylvania, located about 40 miles northwest of Pittsburgh. www.pittrace.com PittRace is a tremendous track and facility. Boasting 2.8 miles of length, 19 turns, WIDTH (36 feet), and elevation change (110 feet). The track is fast and challenging yet forgiving with lots of runoff. Wind it out on two long straights. Fix it in the paved paddocks & clean garages. Stay fresh with the clean & air-conditioned facilities. We be running the full circuit (combined north & south tracks) all weekend. The track was completely resurfaced last year (with terrific curbing) and is an excellent racing surface. Here is an instructional video narrated by the track instructor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3o-J6gcdnM The PVGP Historics Race Schedule Thursday July 5 is Test & Tune day. If you?re new to the track, make this a priority! Friday July 6th ? 8:30 to 5:30 Practice and Qualifying Saturday July 7th - 8:30 to 4:00 Qualifying Races - 4:00 pm 16th Kastner Cup - 5:00 pm Kastner Cup Awards - 6:00 pm PVGP dinner Sunday July 8th ? 8:30 to 5:30 Sprint Races & Feature Races **Triumphs will race in their assigned groups all weekend and then in a 40 minute session to finish the Saturday afternoon schedule.** http://www.pvgp.org/drivers/pvgp-historic-races/schedule/ Paddock We will have a Kastner Cup tent on grass adjacent to our paved paddock reserved for the Kastner Cup. Webpage In the next few weeks we will have a web page on the PVGP site for the Kastner Cup entrants, providing updates on important information, entry forms, hotel information.http://www.pvgp.org/kastner-cup/ Entry Form We will soon have up a special web page entry form and ShowClix link for Kastner Cup Triumphs that includes details on both weekends. Details for this are almost complete - working on the final hotel arrangements. This year?s event is set up to give Kastner Cup entrants the option to run both race weekends. We have arranged for storage of race car trailers at the PittRace facility for those who enter to run both weekends. Leave your trailer at PittRace on July 8th and return Friday July 13th to race Schenley Park on the second weekend. As a bonus, Kastner Cup entries have been offered a complimentary entry fee for the Axis vs Allies race at Schenley Park for Triumphs that race both weekends. The Axis vs Allies is a 30-minute feature race run Saturday afternoon between the mighty British cars and the combined German and Italian racers. http://www.pvgp.org/facts/ About the PVGP Begun in 1983, the PVGP is a 35 year old vintage racing event that covers two whole weeks of action. The first weekend is at Pitt International Race Complex - our home for the 2018 Kastner Cup event. The second weekend is racing on the streets of Schenley Park, a city park adjacent to the Carnegie Mellon and University of Pittsburgh campuses. Between the race weekends there are numerous car shows, road rally, a Jet Center party and more. PVGP is a 100% volunteer event with 2,000 volunteers and the event proceeds support Autism charities in Western Pennsylvania. Schenley Park Race Schenley Park is a true street race - with curbs, street lights, brick walls, crowned roads and manhole covers. (this link is some GT6 laps of Schenley Park) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCIJLmxSMbc . Schenley Park is racing as it was in the 1950?s and early 60?s. The race is through city streets and a golf course, with over 3,000 vintage cars displayed on the golf course and an estimated 200,000 spectators over the weekend. The Streets of Schenley Park is a bucket list item for its uniqueness and setting. This second weekend is optional and not a part of the Kastner Cup race. On the web site you will see there are two distinct race weekends. The Kastner Cup is part of the PVGP Historics weekend. The PVGP runs for the entire 10 day period, wrapped by two race weekend. http://www.pvgp.org/about-us/history/ . The PVGP web site is transitioning from the prior 2017 information to 2018 event information and should be complete by the first week of November. There is a mountain of content and information on the PVGP site, lots of photos and facts. We will use it as the primary communication device. Look for emails alerting you to new information and a link to the relevant pages. (https://www.flickr.com/photos/pittsburghvintagegrandprix/collections/72157686969177600/) . We think we have the elements of an exceptional event. Please mark the dates. More to come! 2018 Kastner Cup Committee Jim, Brian, Peter and Charlie Dolan GT6 #4 GT6 #5 GT6 #6 MGA #57 _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 4msonset at gmail.com Tue Mar 6 09:03:04 2018 From: 4msonset at gmail.com (J Wagner) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 08:03:04 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> <1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com> <1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com> <003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net> I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer. I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes. I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil? Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers? ?Justin > On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote: > > Greg, > > Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod. > > I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it. > > One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones. > > Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit. > > Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve. > > Mike Hado > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot > Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM > To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot > Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test > > I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger. > > Barry > > > On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > > > Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck. > > Jack Wheeler > > > On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: > > > All knowing FOT > > Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. > > The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking? > > I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". > > > Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing. > > Thanks. > > Greg > > Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Tue Mar 6 09:37:10 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 16:37:10 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Synchros Brand New Bastuck Synchros - 4th. to 3rd failed on the first practice lap at Sebring - 3rd to 2nd failed during the second practice - 2nd to 3rd failed in the first race. We are told that they are now being made in Turkey, not Germany.....Oh my, what to do????? [MHC-EmailSig_Attorneys_JohnHasty] CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Tue Mar 6 11:17:37 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 10:17:37 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> <1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com> <1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com> <003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net> <4774C90B-FECF-420A-9343-42AEE8D920F9@gmail.com> I believe the answer is the water molecules are larger than the air molecules, which makes them easier to pass through the space. I think Gore-Tex work the same way, lets the fabric breathe, but keeps the water out. Not sure why I know this :) Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: J Wagner via Fot To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 8:03 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer. I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes. I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil? Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers? ?Justin On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote: Greg, Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod. I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it. One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones. Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit. Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve. Mike Hado From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger. Barry On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck. Jack Wheeler On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: All knowing FOT Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking? I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing. Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 4msonset at gmail.com Tue Mar 6 12:40:34 2018 From: 4msonset at gmail.com (J Wagner) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 11:40:34 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> <1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com> <1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com> <003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net> <4774C90B-FECF-420A-9343-42AEE8D920F9@gmail.com> Makes sense. Subsequently, is compressed air a viable means of testing seals that normally run gear oil? > On Mar 6, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote: > > I believe the answer is the water molecules are larger than the air molecules, which makes them easier to pass through the space. I think Gore-Tex work the same way, lets the fabric breathe, but keeps the water out. > Not sure why I know this :) > Charly Mitchel > TR6 #44 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: J Wagner via Fot > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 8:03 AM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test > > I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer. > > I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes. > > I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil? > > Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers? > > ?Justin > >> On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote: >> >> Greg, >> Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod. >> I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it. >> One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones. >> Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit. >> Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve. >> Mike Hado >> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot >> Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM >> To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test >> I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger. >> Barry >> >> On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: >> >> Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck. >> Jack Wheeler >> On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: >> All knowing FOT >> Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. >> The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking? >> I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". >> >> >> Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing. >> >> Thanks. >> >> Greg >> >> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Tue Mar 6 12:57:51 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 11:57:51 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> <1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com> <1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com> <003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net> <4774C90B-FECF-420A-9343-42AEE8D920F9@gmail.com> <8611DCE6-95F7-4A94-A0D0-BBD418DF2927@gmail.com> Not to me it isn't, it's not really proving anything. Can't tell it it's leaking past seals. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: J Wagner To: Charly Mitchel Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 11:40 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test Makes sense. Subsequently, is compressed air a viable means of testing seals that normally run gear oil? On Mar 6, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote: I believe the answer is the water molecules are larger than the air molecules, which makes them easier to pass through the space. I think Gore-Tex work the same way, lets the fabric breathe, but keeps the water out. Not sure why I know this :) Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: J Wagner via Fot To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 8:03 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer. I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes. I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil? Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers? ?Justin On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote: Greg, Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod. I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it. One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones. Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit. Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve. Mike Hado From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger. Barry On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck. Jack Wheeler On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: All knowing FOT Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking? I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing. Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Tue Mar 6 15:58:42 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 17:58:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Synchros References: John, get some original rings in good shape, a piece of flat glass, and some fine sandpaper. Sand the rings slightly on the glass plate. That may let the ring engage better on the cone part of the gear. May work, right Ted? Some of the new stuff isn't of the best quality, to say the least. Anybody else do this? Cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: John Hasty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 11:37 AM Subject: [Fot] Synchros Brand New Bastuck Synchros ? 4th. to 3rd failed on the first practice lap at Sebring ? 3rd to 2nd failed during the second practice ? 2nd to 3rd failed in the first race. We are told that they are now being made in Turkey, not Germany?..Oh my, what to do????? CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Mar 6 16:20:19 2018 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 18:20:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Synchros References: John, What was the failure mode? IE, what happened, I assume grinding gears. Perhaps the circlip failed and has allowed too much free play. Great, I just replaced 4 in my street TR4A. JVV From: John Hasty via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 11:37 AM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] Synchros Brand New Bastuck Synchros ? 4th. to 3rd failed on the first practice lap at Sebring ? 3rd to 2nd failed during the second practice ? 2nd to 3rd failed in the first race. We are told that they are now being made in Turkey, not Germany?..Oh my, what to do????? CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mhado at att.net Tue Mar 6 16:20:56 2018 From: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 17:20:56 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> <1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com> <1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com> <003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net> <4774C90B-FECF-420A-9343-42AEE8D920F9@gmail.com> <8611DCE6-95F7-4A94-A0D0-BBD418DF2927@gmail.com> <30309331F4DE4A769A7D35F325826051@Charly> I agree. To me using air is not so much to test the ?seals? (O-rings, balls & seats, accumulator piston rings, etc.) but to test the mechanical movement of the overdrive internals. Greg?s test showed the pistons moving the cone clutch very well with only 120 psi so that?s what I would be looking for on the air test and nothing more. Plus, this is something you can do on the bench before putting it together since oil pressure is not yet available before assembly. I think it?s inevitable that you will hear a lot of air leakage past the operating valve with this mechanical test and doesn?t prove that anything is hydraulically ?tight.? The bottom line is to get the 400 psig and, if you do, any leakage past these areas is internal and a moot point. Mike From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charly Mitchel via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 1:58 PM To: J Wagner Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test Not to me it isn't, it's not really proving anything. Can't tell it it's leaking past seals. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 11:40 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test Makes sense. Subsequently, is compressed air a viable means of testing seals that normally run gear oil? On Mar 6, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote: I believe the answer is the water molecules are larger than the air molecules, which makes them easier to pass through the space. I think Gore-Tex work the same way, lets the fabric breathe, but keeps the water out. Not sure why I know this :) Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 8:03 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer. I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes. I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil? Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers? ?Justin On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote: Greg, Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod. I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it. One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones. Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit. Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve. Mike Hado From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger. Barry On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck. Jack Wheeler On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: All knowing FOT Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking? I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing. Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _____ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Tue Mar 6 18:25:26 2018 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2018 19:25:26 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> <1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com> <1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com> <003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net> <4774C90B-FECF-420A-9343-42AEE8D920F9@gmail.com> <8611DCE6-95F7-4A94-A0D0-BBD418DF2927@gmail.com> <30309331F4DE4A769A7D35F325826051@Charly> <00e901d3b5a1$c821b250$586516f0$@att.net> All, Appreciate all the feedback. As this was my first time tearing into an overdrive, I am not familiar with how they work and what is acceptable. I was following the great articles on the Buckeye website. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD3/AOD3.htm Towards the end of the reassembly section, the article discuss the air test which I thought could save me some trouble of trial and error. I am happy that the clutch is operating as expected and plan to reassemble and bench test to check for operating pressure. Thanks again for the advice. Greg Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 6, 2018, at 5:20 PM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote: > > I agree. To me using air is not so much to test the ?seals? (O-rings, balls & seats, accumulator piston rings, etc.) but to test the mechanical movement of the overdrive internals. Greg?s test showed the pistons moving the cone clutch very well with only 120 psi so that?s what I would be looking for on the air test and nothing more. Plus, this is something you can do on the bench before putting it together since oil pressure is not yet available before assembly. I think it?s inevitable that you will hear a lot of air leakage past the operating valve with this mechanical test and doesn?t prove that anything is hydraulically ?tight.? The bottom line is to get the 400 psig and, if you do, any leakage past these areas is internal and a moot point. > > Mike > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charly Mitchel via Fot > Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 1:58 PM > To: J Wagner > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test > > Not to me it isn't, it's not really proving anything. Can't tell it it's leaking past seals. > Charly Mitchel > TR6 #44 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: J Wagner > To: Charly Mitchel > Cc: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 11:40 AM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test > > Makes sense. Subsequently, is compressed air a viable means of testing seals that normally run gear oil? > > > > > > On Mar 6, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote: > > I believe the answer is the water molecules are larger than the air molecules, which makes them easier to pass through the space. I think Gore-Tex work the same way, lets the fabric breathe, but keeps the water out. > Not sure why I know this :) > Charly Mitchel > TR6 #44 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: J Wagner via Fot > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 8:03 AM > Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test > > I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer. > > I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes. > > I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil? > > Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers? > > ?Justin > > On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote: > > Greg, > Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod. > I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it. > One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones. > Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit. > Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve. > Mike Hado > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot > Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM > To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot > Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test > I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger. > Barry > On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck. > Jack Wheeler > On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: > All knowing FOT > Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. > The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking? > I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". > > > Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing. > > Thanks. > > Greg > > Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cartravel at pobox.com Wed Mar 7 13:41:47 2018 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 14:41:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> <1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com> It seems like the balls and springs (pump, operating valve) are always a problem. I've seen all sorts of suggestions and tried many of them. Lapping the ball seat sounds like a good idea. I've always used the smack the ball with a hammer trick. I don't know how to test those little springs and I don't trust that the ones we buy are correct. Rather than worrying about air leakage, a better test is probably to see how long the unit holds pressure after you shut it down. I had one that would hold pressure for days, but most will only hold pressure for a number of minutes to perhaps an hour. One problem I have frequently had is that the unit will not pressure up after I put oil in it.? I've always thought it was because of all the air in the lines. I developed an assembly method to make sure I got oil pumped at each step. You could also use it as a troubleshooting method. You might check it out starting at Step 15 in http://vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/TransRebuild/OverDriveA02.pdf. Another trick I've heard is to put Vaseline jelly in the pump to help it get started. ?- Larry From kaskastner at gmail.com Wed Mar 7 14:11:49 2018 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 13:11:49 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> <1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com> <6fe08f9a-6662-ff7a-5fc2-0457c9f42b18@pobox.com> That Vaseline trick works for engines also, I used it for years. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Wed, Mar 7, 2018 at 12:41 PM, Larry Young via Fot wrote: > It seems like the balls and springs (pump, operating valve) are always a > problem. I've seen all sorts of suggestions and tried many of them. Lapping > the ball seat sounds like a good idea. I've always used the smack the ball > with a hammer trick. I don't know how to test those little springs and I > don't trust that the ones we buy are correct. Rather than worrying about > air leakage, a better test is probably to see how long the unit holds > pressure after you shut it down. I had one that would hold pressure for > days, but most will only hold pressure for a number of minutes to perhaps > an hour. > > One problem I have frequently had is that the unit will not pressure up > after I put oil in it. I've always thought it was because of all the air > in the lines. I developed an assembly method to make sure I got oil pumped > at each step. You could also use it as a troubleshooting method. You might > check it out starting at Step 15 in http://vintagetriumphregister. > org/maintain/TransRebuild/OverDriveA02.pdf. Another trick I've heard is > to put Vaseline jelly in the pump to help it get started. > - Larry > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Wed Mar 7 15:09:38 2018 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com) Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2018 17:09:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com> <1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com> <6fe08f9a-6662-ff7a-5fc2-0457c9f42b18@pobox.com> Larry's step 15 to ensure the pump get's primed is key. Saves lots of aggravation on the test stand. You can't really know what is going on without a pressure gauge, I got mine from Jay Holekamp. Works just fine. jholekamp at sbcglobal.net http://www.geocities.ws/jholekamp/ h On 2018-03-07 15:41, Larry Young via Fot wrote: > > One problem I have frequently had is that the unit will not pressure > up after I put oil in it.? I've always thought it was because of all > the air in the lines. I developed an assembly method to make sure I > got oil pumped at each step. You could also use it as a > troubleshooting method. You might check it out starting at Step 15 in > http://vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/TransRebuild/OverDriveA02.pdf. > Another trick I've heard is to put Vaseline jelly in the pump to help > it get started. From ac at camoletti.ch Wed Mar 7 16:14:23 2018 From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2018 00:14:23 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Wed Mar 7 17:21:56 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 16:21:56 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads Hello Amici, Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire. I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years. I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes. I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins. 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a general illustration and not correct for any specific application. They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through multiple Emails and a terse phone call. So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are: 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers? 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin? 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them out yourself? 4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo attached)? 5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any speed secrets, of course... I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my view... Your thoughts and experience are appreciated. ?? Thanks! *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2858.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1988087 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ap1142008_03_24_10_51_45.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4824 bytes Desc: not available URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Wed Mar 7 18:51:48 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 20:51:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads References: Love the Porterfields, never had a problem. Did somewhere along the line someone switch calipers? I know some are 3/16 and some 1/4 holes. I drilled out all my spares to 1/4 inch, all the same size. Less spares to carry. Be careful with calipers, the P and PB use a slightly different mounting bolt. Memory escapes me as to the particulars. Good luck. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Brad Eells via Fot To: fot Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 7:21 PM Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads Hello Amici, Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire. I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years. I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes. I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins. 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a general illustration and not correct for any specific application. They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through multiple Emails and a terse phone call. So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are: 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers? 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin? 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them out yourself? 4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo attached)? 5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any speed secrets, of course... I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my view... Your thoughts and experience are appreciated. ?? Thanks! Brad Eells Chino CA #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 #76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ap1142008_03_24_10_51_45.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4824 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2858.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1988087 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sjanzen at me.com Wed Mar 7 18:55:32 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 20:55:32 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads References: I run 16Ps on my GT6 and have used Hawk, Porterfield and my current favorite - something that Ted sells, can?t remember the name. In most cases in the past few years, I?ve had to egg out the holes for the 1/4? pins with a drill. Mine typically look like the photo of the new one you have on the right. I think the pads are ?shared? with the Datsun 240z and they probably fit fine on that car. On Mar 7, 2018, at 7:21 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Hello Amici, Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire. I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years. I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes. I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins. 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a general illustration and not correct for any specific application. They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through multiple Emails and a terse phone call. So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are: 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers? 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin? 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them out yourself? 4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo attached)? 5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any speed secrets, of course... I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my view... Your thoughts and experience are appreciated. ?? Thanks! Brad Eells Chino CA #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 #76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Wed Mar 7 19:15:33 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 18:15:33 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> Scott, Engineer Tim mentioned the 240Z connection. This leads me to believe the pads were designed for a Japanese knock off of the original 16P like so many other parts of the car. Likely built to a metric size that leads to a slightly undersized retaining pin hole. I am amazed that apparently no one has ever mentioned it to Porterfield... Thanks, Brad *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* On Wed, Mar 7, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Scott Janzen wrote: > I run 16Ps on my GT6 and have used Hawk, Porterfield and my current > favorite - something that Ted sells, can?t remember the name. In most > cases in the past few years, I?ve had to egg out the holes for the 1/4? > pins with a drill. > Mine typically look like the photo of the new one you have on the right. > I think the pads are ?shared? with the Datsun 240z and they probably fit > fine on that car. > > On Mar 7, 2018, at 7:21 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Hello Amici, > > Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I > dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire. > > I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the > venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been buying > brake pads for these cars for over 35 years. > > I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as well. > The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound shape was > not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or what is shown on > Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining pin holes in the puck to > be too small. The puck itself is the same general dimension as my original > Girling Competition pad and does fit in the caliper but I cannot put the > pins through the holes. > > I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling 16PB or > M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins. > > 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we > still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad "for 25 > years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or complained. > When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown on their website as > the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a general illustration and > not correct for any specific application. > > They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. I > am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out of the box > and to have to argue the point back and forth through multiple Emails and a > terse phone call. > > So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early TR6 > and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are: > > 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers? > > 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin? > > 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them out > yourself? > > 4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo attached)? > > 5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any > speed secrets, of course... > > I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my pins, > pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just shouldn't have to > come to that with a reputable company from my view... > > Your thoughts and experience are appreciated. > > > > > ?? > > Thanks! > > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Wed Mar 7 19:59:25 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 20:59:25 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads I have used all sorts of brake pads for my 16p caliper on my 69 TR6, Porterfield, Hawks, LBC, and others from ceramic to semi metallic. I always plan to drill them out, sometimes I get what I think are pads for 16PB, which I think have smaller holes. I've had problems with the height being to tall and not sliding in the caliper, some being different thickness and having trouble inserting them. I always plan to modify them to make them fit, sometimes I've had to reshim the caliper mount to move it over a few thousands to center it. I just think of it as part of making the brakes work. I'm now doing mine twice a year, must be going faster or braking harder! Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 On Wed 07/03/18 4:21 PM , Brad Eells via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: > Hello Amici, > Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I > dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire. > I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the > venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been > buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years. > I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as > well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound > shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or > what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining > pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same > general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit > in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes. > I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling > 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins. > 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we > still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad > "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or > complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown > on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a > general illustration and not correct for any specific application. > They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. > I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out > of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through > multiple Emails and a terse phone call. > So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early > TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are: > 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers? > 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin? > 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them > out yourself? > 4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo > attached)? > 5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any > speed secrets, of course... > I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my > pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just > shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my > view... > Your thoughts and experience are appreciated. > ?? > > Thanks! > > BRAD EELLSCHINO CA#35 DP 1962 TRIUMPH TR4#76 FP 1969 TRIUMPH SPITFIRE > MK31965 TRIUMPH TR4A IRS...FOR THE ROAD! > > From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Mar 7 21:24:42 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 20:24:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> Good mentioning the mounting bolt difference of the P and PB calipers, Bill. The shoulder is metric to fit the PB caliper, but the thread is standard. Go figure. I have the PB calipers on my TR3. The PB (metric) calipers do have a 3/16", or perhaps metric equivalent pin. They also have an improved/sturdier dust boot that doesn't deteriorate from heat like on the P caliper. Brad, just drill out the pad holes to 1/4" and be done with it. I opened the pin holes in my PB calipers to 1/4" and have had to opened the holes in pads as well. I have my second set of Carbotech, ( I think X6 compound ) pads in now. I started with Hawk Blue. The Hawk pads seemed to have a quicker bite, but didn't last very long and made a lot of dust. They also seemed to be very hard on the rotors. That could have been related to the aftermarket rotor quality that I used initially. I've since been using Brembo. The Carbotech/Brembo setup wears very nice and evenly. I'd like to try the Hawks again with the Brembo rotors. BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I can rebuild at my leisure. Dave H. > On March 7, 2018 at 6:15 PM Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Scott, > > Engineer Tim mentioned the 240Z connection. This leads me to believe the pads were designed for a Japanese knock off of the original 16P like so many other parts of the car. Likely built to a metric size that leads to a slightly undersized retaining pin hole. > > I am amazed that apparently no one has ever mentioned it to Porterfield... > > Thanks, > > > Brad > > > Brad Eells > Chino CA > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > #76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > On Wed, Mar 7, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Scott Janzen wrote: > > > > I run 16Ps on my GT6 and have used Hawk, Porterfield and my current favorite - something that Ted sells, can?t remember the name. In most cases in the past few years, I?ve had to egg out the holes for the 1/4? pins with a drill. > > Mine typically look like the photo of the new one you have on the right. I think the pads are ?shared? with the Datsun 240z and they probably fit fine on that car. > > > > On Mar 7, 2018, at 7:21 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Hello Amici, > > > > Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire. > > > > I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years. > > > > I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes. > > > > I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins. > > > > 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a general illustration and not correct for any specific application. > > > > They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through multiple Emails and a terse phone call. > > > > So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are: > > > > 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers? > > > > 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin? > > > > 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them out yourself? > > > > 4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo attached)? > > > > 5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any speed secrets, of course... > > > > I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my view... > > > > Your thoughts and experience are appreciated. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > > > Brad Eells > > Chino CA > > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > > #76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Mar 7 21:28:41 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 20:28:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads References: <53700.1520477965@mitchelplumbing.com> Yes! I had to shim my rotors because the inside pad would not fit. Total PITA. Shimming the caliper is a breeze with factory shims. DH > On March 7, 2018 at 6:59 PM Charly via Fot wrote: > > > I have used all sorts of brake pads for my 16p caliper on my 69 TR6, Porterfield, Hawks, LBC, and others from ceramic to semi metallic. I always plan to drill them out, sometimes > I get what I think are pads for 16PB, which I think have smaller holes. I've had problems with the height being to tall and not sliding in the caliper, some being different > thickness and having trouble inserting them. I always plan to modify them to make them fit, sometimes I've had to reshim the caliper mount to move it over a few thousands to > center it. I just think of it as part of making the brakes work. I'm now doing mine twice a year, must be going faster or braking harder! > Charly Mitchel > TR6 #44 > > On Wed 07/03/18 4:21 PM , Brad Eells via Fot fot at autox.team mailto:fot at autox.team .net sent: > > > > Hello Amici, > > Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I > > dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire. > > I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the > > venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been > > buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years. > > I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as > > well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound > > shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or > > what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining > > pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same > > general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit > > in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes. > > I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling > > 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins. > > 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we > > still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad > > "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or > > complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown > > on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a > > general illustration and not correct for any specific application. > > They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. > > I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out > > of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through > > multiple Emails and a terse phone call. > > So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early > > TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are: > > 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers? > > 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin? > > 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them > > > > out yourself? > > 1. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo > > > > attached)? > > 1. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any > > > > speed secrets, of course... > > I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my > > pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just > > shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my > > view... > > Your thoughts and experience are appreciated. > > > > > > Thanks! > > > > BRAD EELLSCHINO CA#35 DP 1962 TRIUMPH TR4#76 FP 1969 TRIUMPH SPITFIRE > > MK31965 TRIUMPH TR4A IRS...FOR THE ROAD! > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team mailto:fot at autox.team .net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Thu Mar 8 03:54:27 2018 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2018 05:54:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let alone my race car. Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM calipers. Henry On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. > That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased > another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up > just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I > can rebuild at my leisure. From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Thu Mar 8 05:54:09 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 06:54:09 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Description below: This is a 100% Brand New Caliper with Stainless Steel 316 Pistons in the 16P Style for Triumph TR3B, TR4,TR4A from CT4690 (wire wheels) & CT4388 (steel wheels),TR250, TR6 to (CC81078) 8/72, Why go through the trouble of having calipers pistons done in 316 Stainless, because it is the best! 316 Grade Stainless is Marine grade stainless steel which give a higher level of finish compared to other stainless steel. And Marine grade has a higher leved of Molybdenum which means better corrosion resistant to sea water and chloride (Road Salt). And to top it off the 316 Grade Stainless Steel has a greater thermal barrier, which keeps the heat out of your brake fluid I have purchased a pair of the reproduction calipers when I cooked my 16p set. I used them one weekend and I didn't like the feel compared to the real ones. I rebuilt my 16p's and put the copies on a differnt car. Them seem to be okay on that car, maybe because I'm not using them as hard. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 On Thu 08/03/18 2:54 AM , Henry Frye via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let > alone my race car. > > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? > > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM > calipers. > > Henry > > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for > around $100 each new.> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important > part. I purchased> another set when I thought I might be having a > problem, but ended up> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair > standing by. Then I> can rebuild at my leisure. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox. > team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ch > arly at mitchelplumbing.com > > > > From fubog1 at aol.com Thu Mar 8 06:53:21 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 08:53:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? a few thoughts References: <34997.1520513649@mitchelplumbing.com> I've been using the repro Moss calipers for a few years now, no problems so far but I notice that they seem to maybe have a little more seal retraction than the originals. (I suspect that there may be some difference in the seal design due to the fact that that piston retraction is a function of the seal but this is only speculation, I haven't torn one down yet for inspection.) I haven't had reports of any problems with them operationally, FWIW. The big/small pin differences have been noted. Also the photo previously posted showed 2 different pads, one a full rectangular shape and the other tapered. These cars need the tapered pads to avoid uneven wear on the pads, it runs hotter & wears more towards the outer edge so less material as it gets closer to the axle evens out the wear (taper)... (note taper not to be confused with some pads designed with front to rear taper) Glen -----Original Message----- From: Charly via Fot To: fot Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 8:11 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Description below: This is a 100% Brand New Caliper with Stainless Steel 316 Pistons in the 16P Style for Triumph TR3B, TR4,TR4A from CT4690 (wire wheels) & CT4388 (steel wheels),TR250, TR6 to (CC81078) 8/72, Why go through the trouble of having calipers pistons done in 316 Stainless, because it is the best! 316 Grade Stainless is Marine grade stainless steel which give a higher level of finish compared to other stainless steel. And Marine grade has a higher leved of Molybdenum which means better corrosion resistant to sea water and chloride (Road Salt). And to top it off the 316 Grade Stainless Steel has a greater thermal barrier, which keeps the heat out of your brake fluid I have purchased a pair of the reproduction calipers when I cooked my 16p set. I used them one weekend and I didn't like the feel compared to the real ones. I rebuilt my 16p's and put the copies on a differnt car. Them seem to be okay on that car, maybe because I'm not using them as hard. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 On Thu 08/03/18 2:54 AM , Henry Frye via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let > alone my race car. > > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? > > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM > calipers. > > Henry > > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for > around $100 each new.> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important > part. I purchased> another set when I thought I might be having a > problem, but ended up> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair > standing by. Then I> can rebuild at my leisure. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox. > team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ch > arly at mitchelplumbing.com > > > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Thu Mar 8 09:09:57 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 08:09:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. DH > On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: > > > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let > alone my race car. > > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? > > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM > calipers. > > Henry > > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. > > That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased > > another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up > > just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I > > can rebuild at my leisure. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > From sjanzen at me.com Thu Mar 8 09:21:31 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 11:21:31 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. DH > On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: > > > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let > alone my race car. > > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? > > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM > calipers. > > Henry > > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >> >> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. >> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased >> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up >> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I >> can rebuild at my leisure. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Thu Mar 8 09:27:46 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 08:27:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. DH > On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: > > good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says > Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. > > On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. > The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. > My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. > Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. > > DH > > > > On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: > > > > > > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made > > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think > > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let > > alone my race car. > > > > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? > > > > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM > > calipers. > > > > Henry > > > > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. > > > That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased > > > another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up > > > just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I > > > can rebuild at my leisure. > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triosan at gmail.com Thu Mar 8 09:51:46 2018 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 08:51:46 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> I have a set of cores needing rebuilding and a rebuild kit if someone wants them. On Mar 8, 2018 8:34 AM, "DAVE HOGYE via Fot" wrote: > The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as > needed. > The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish > with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have > a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about > the quality. > My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of > 3,800 miles. > Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far > as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete > comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the > importance of good brakes. > > DH > > On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot > wrote: > > > > > > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made > > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think > > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let > > alone my race car. > > > > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? > > > > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM > > calipers. > > > > Henry > > > > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > > > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. > > > That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased > > > another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up > > > just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I > > > can rebuild at my leisure. > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/triosan at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Thu Mar 8 10:26:05 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 18:26:05 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 An: Scott Janzen Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. DH good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. DH I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let alone my race car. Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM calipers. Henry On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I can rebuild at my leisure. _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Mar 8 12:43:06 2018 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 19:43:06 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> And your cooling fins? Scott From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Marx via Fot Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2018 11:26 AM To: fot at autox. team. net Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. Cheers Chris Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. DH good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. DH I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let alone my race car. Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM calipers. Henry On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I can rebuild at my leisure. _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Thu Mar 8 12:49:36 2018 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 13:49:36 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. Paul > On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: > > I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. > I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. > > Cheers > Chris > > Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? > > Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. > > DH >> >> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says >> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. >> >> >> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. >> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. >> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. >> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. >> >> DH >> >>> >>> >>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made >>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think >>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let >>> alone my race car. >>> >>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? >>> >>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM >>> calipers. >>> >>> Henry >>> >>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. >>>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased >>>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up >>>> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I >>>> can rebuild at my leisure. >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Thu Mar 8 15:08:58 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 17:08:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: > We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech > brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all > seems to be working good. > > It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front > suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage > organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that > do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made > a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. > > Paul > > > On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot > wrote: > > I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. > I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. > > Cheers > Chris > > *Von:* Fot *Im Auftrag von *DAVE HOGYE via > Fot > *Gesendet:* Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 > *An:* Scott Janzen > *Cc:* Friends of Triumph' Triumph > *Betreff:* Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? > > Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look > very similar to the the P or PB calipers. > > DH > > On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: > > good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you > need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says > Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design > and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase > in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. > > On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot > wrote: > > The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as > needed. > The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish > with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have > a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about > the quality. > My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of > 3,800 miles. > Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far > as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete > comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the > importance of good brakes. > > DH > > On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: > > > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let > alone my race car. > > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? > > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM > calipers. > > Henry > > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. > That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased > another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up > just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I > can rebuild at my leisure. > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Thu Mar 8 16:04:55 2018 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 17:04:55 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> John, We really enjoy running SVRA events. We feel that they do a great job. I will tell you that at the Road America event in the Spring, that the Wildwoods have been discouraged. There were a small group of cars in another class that had 6 piston Wildwoods. It is my understanding that they were given a 1 year pass and asked not to return with them in the future. I respect SVRA for trying to take a stand on it. We do not like having too many rules and do not want this to become a formula class the way that many other forms of racing have gone. However, We feel that It really puts those that have tried adhere to the spirit of Vintage Racing at an unfair disadvantage when someone else has gone to that extreme of a modification. Paul Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 8, 2018, at 4:08 PM, John Styduhar wrote: > > The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. > >> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: >> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. >> >> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. >> >> Paul >> >> >>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>> >>> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. >>> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. >>> >>> Cheers >>> Chris >>> >>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot >>> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 >>> An: Scott Janzen >>> Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph >>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >>> >>> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. >>> >>> DH >>>> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: >>>> >>>> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says >>>> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. >>>> >>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. >>>> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. >>>> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. >>>> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. >>>> >>>> DH >>>> >>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made >>>>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think >>>>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let >>>>> alone my race car. >>>>> >>>>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? >>>>> >>>>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM >>>>> calipers. >>>>> >>>>> Henry >>>>> >>>>>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. >>>>>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased >>>>>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up >>>>>> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I >>>>>> can rebuild at my leisure. >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>> >>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>> >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Thu Mar 8 19:59:31 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 18:59:31 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. Bill Dentinger PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: > > The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. > >> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: >> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. >> >> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. >> >> Paul >> >> >>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>> >>> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. >>> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. >>> >>> Cheers >>> Chris >>> >>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot >>> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 >>> An: Scott Janzen >>> Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph >>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >>> >>> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. >>> >>> DH >>>> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: >>>> >>>> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says >>>> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. >>>> >>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>>> >>>> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. >>>> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. >>>> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. >>>> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. >>>> >>>> DH >>>> >>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made >>>>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think >>>>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let >>>>> alone my race car. >>>>> >>>>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? >>>>> >>>>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM >>>>> calipers. >>>>> >>>>> Henry >>>>> >>>>>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. >>>>>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased >>>>>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up >>>>>> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I >>>>>> can rebuild at my leisure. >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>> >>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>> >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Thu Mar 8 22:39:53 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 21:39:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> Excuse me Friends, the Wilwood calipers that I mentioned are for a Formula Ford. They look similar to the earlier TR3 calipers, not the later P calipers, but they are two piston. They have similar 3.5" mounting hole spacing as a TR, but other specs are not similar and they are for a .38" width rotor. DH > On March 8, 2018 at 8:27 AM DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. > > > DH > > > > On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: > > > > good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says > > Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. > > > > On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > > The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. > > The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. > > My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. > > Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. > > > > DH > > > > > > > On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made > > > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think > > > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let > > > alone my race car. > > > > > > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? > > > > > > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM > > > calipers. > > > > > > Henry > > > > > > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. > > > > That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased > > > > another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up > > > > just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I > > > > can rebuild at my leisure. > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Thu Mar 8 22:46:25 2018 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 21:46:25 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> <8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com> In the 50's to early 70's days of the California Sports Car Club, if you were caught, and many were, with parts or items that were not allowed you were given a chance to defend yourself at the Contest Board meeting (once a month) and if they found proof you were guilty as charged, you lost your license for a YEAR. That's it, you did not race for a year in any class. I ran the Rules Enforcement group and was on the Contest Board which consisted of current drivers in several classes. It was found most of the cheating took place from about 6th place back to about 10th place. Nothing much before that position or after the 10th place. Some entrants never understood that other drivers REALLY were FAST and thus they thought the leaders were the cheaters and that just was not true at all. Interesting. No one wanted to have the name "cheater" attached to their name. Several cars were checked each race by lottery for cubic capacity, weight, gears ratios, body panels and other major parts. It was pretty pure racing. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 6:59 PM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of > tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag > after one lap in the Feature Race. > > Bill Dentinger > > PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature > race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but > must have a minimum tread depth. > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot > wrote: > > The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And > they do that at each gridding. > > On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot > wrote: > >> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech >> brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all >> seems to be working good. >> >> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front >> suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage >> organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that >> do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made >> a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. >> >> Paul >> >> >> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot >> wrote: >> >> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. >> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. >> >> Cheers >> Chris >> >> *Von:* Fot *Im Auftrag von *DAVE HOGYE via >> Fot >> *Gesendet:* Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 >> *An:* Scott Janzen >> *Cc:* Friends of Triumph' Triumph >> *Betreff:* Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >> >> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look >> very similar to the the P or PB calipers. >> >> DH >> >> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: >> >> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you >> need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says >> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, >> design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no >> increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. >> >> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot >> wrote: >> >> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as >> needed. >> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish >> with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have >> a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about >> the quality. >> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of >> 3,800 miles. >> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I >> far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete >> comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the >> importance of good brakes. >> >> DH >> >> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot >> wrote: >> >> >> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made >> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think >> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let >> alone my race car. >> >> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? >> >> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM >> calipers. >> >> Henry >> >> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >> >> >> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. >> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased >> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up >> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I >> can rebuild at my leisure. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/ >> fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/ >> fot/sjanzen at me.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/ >> fot/paulricco at att.net >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tlizzard at msn.com Fri Mar 9 05:00:33 2018 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 12:00:33 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> <8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com>, Normally I don?t step into these conversations, but at this point I think a more appropriate term for vintage racing is now ?Formula Libra?. Just sayin?. Terry Stetler Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Kas Kastner via Fot Sent: Friday, March 9, 2018 12:46:25 AM To: BillDentin at aol.com Cc: fot at autox. team. net Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? In the 50's to early 70's days of the California Sports Car Club, if you were caught, and many were, with parts or items that were not allowed you were given a chance to defend yourself at the Contest Board meeting (once a month) and if they found proof you were guilty as charged, you lost your license for a YEAR. That's it, you did not race for a year in any class. I ran the Rules Enforcement group and was on the Contest Board which consisted of current drivers in several classes. It was found most of the cheating took place from about 6th place back to about 10th place. Nothing much before that position or after the 10th place. Some entrants never understood that other drivers REALLY were FAST and thus they thought the leaders were the cheaters and that just was not true at all. Interesting. No one wanted to have the name "cheater" attached to their name. Several cars were checked each race by lottery for cubic capacity, weight, gears ratios, body panels and other major parts. It was pretty pure racing. Never be beaten by equipment. Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. Bill Dentinger PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. Sent from my iPhone The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. Paul I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. Cheers Chris Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. DH good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. DH I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let alone my race car. Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM calipers. Henry On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I can rebuild at my leisure. _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 06:42:24 2018 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 07:42:24 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 2018 Kastner Cup References: <8A082417-D5BB-40F6-9696-76DB44198D9C@voyagerhldgs.com> <4DCCE280-BD3E-4547-BCF3-096E2507B878@voyagerhldgs.com> Jim, I never got it. Mark Bradakis, could you send this out for us? Mark, I will be in Salt Lake City in May. Maybe we could talk about we could do about the List. I have a couple ideas. If you come to the KCup, will you drive or fly? Thanks. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 9, 2018, at 7:33 AM, James J Dolan wrote: > > I sent this message to the FoT mailbox on Tuesday. > So far, it has not come out to me or anyone I know. > > What does one do to get this to happen with the club FoT list? > > From: James Dolan > Date: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 at 4:47 PM > To: Fot > Subject: 2018 Kastner Cup > > FoT Members, > > Our plans for the 2018 Kastner Cup are on schedule and coming along well. > Here is an update and it is time to REGISTER > > Kastner Cup Race > This year?s event will be held in conjunction with the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. > The dates are July 6th ? 7th ? 8h 2018. > The Kastner Cup race will be held Saturday afternoon around 4:00 pm. > It is scheduled to be a 40-minute race, so plan your tires accordingly. > > Track > Our host track will be Pittsburgh International Raceway, a 2.9 mile track located about 35 miles north of Pittsburgh. For track details and information, visit: www.pittrace.com > Pitt Race is an excellent facility, with large run off areas, a 100 foot elevation change, two long straights, paved paddocks, clean bathrooms and shower facilities. I think you will find it a great facility for our event. > To get a feel for the track visit: https://www.flickr.com/photos/pittsburghvintagegrandprix/sets/72157685891790982/ and there is a on track video of a ?64 Spitfire at the PVGP Kastner Cup registration page below. > > Registration > Registration is being done through the PVGP website. > For registration details, information, and to register for the Kastner Cup, please visit: http://www.pvgp.org/drivers/kastner-cup/ . > The actual application is at http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf . > Note that the web site registration is payment only, you will need to mail in the completed application with your Medicals. > The actual application is at http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf. > Please note we have a $35 fee to register for the Kastner Cup race and this will help defer some of the event expenses. > Take the time to register now so we can get a handle on the number of cars. There is a lot of information on the PVGP.org web site > Hotel > Host hotel is Comfort Inn ? Cranberry Township 924 Sheraton Drive, Mars, PA, 16046 Phone: (724) 772-2700. > We secured a room rate of $89/night. > Tell them you are with the Kastner Cup to get the proper rate. > > Poster > The 2018 Kastner Cup poster is complete and looks great. > > > > Tee Shirts > The Western PA Triumph Association is helping with tee shirts and support for the Kastner Cup weekend. > An email has gone out to the FoT asking for orders and sizes. If you haven?t received the email you may email Jerry Van Vlack of WPTA at jerryvv at roadrunner.com . > > We plan to have special parking and show space for WPTA and Triumphs at Pitt Race (details to follow) for Saturday?s race. > > PVGP other events that may be of interest to you > The PVGP runs two back to back race weekends. > The second weekend is the following weekend July 14 & 15 and is a street race in Pittsburgh?s Schenley Park. This race runs on 2.33 miles of Pittsburgh city streets in Schenley Park and is the longest running vintage street race in America. For photos of the event visit: https://www.flickr.com/photos/pittsburghvintagegrandprix/sets/72157687618417183/ and https://www.flickr.com/photos/pittsburghvintagegrandprix/sets/72157686717704321/. > We have arranged for any Triumph driver entering both weekends to receive a free entry into the Axis vs. Allies race at Schenley on Saturday, July 14 (a $75 value). This special race on Saturday pits the British cars against the German and Italian cars. > For more information on registering for the Schenley Park weekend visit: http://www.pvgp.org/drivers/ . Be sure to add yourself to the Axis vs. Allies race. We can arrange for storage of race car trailers for drivers running both weekends. > > This is shaping up to be an excellent event and I look forward to seeing you in July. > > Please forward any questions or comments to me at jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com. > > 2018 Kastner Cup Committee > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 61311 bytes Desc: not available URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Fri Mar 9 07:06:51 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 09:06:51 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> <8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com> Bill, if all the cheaters in vintage were black flagged, half the field wouldn't finish! Cheaters is a harsh word; non-compliant sounds better. I know of guys with mid-50's Corvettes, and one T Bird, who run big disc brakes, not the original drums. One of whom runs a vintage organization!!!!!! Also, I like Tony but a 9 inch Ford diff in a TR4? All vintage rules say the diff housing has to be stock. I also like Sam, who's given me a lot of advice over the years, but is his car truely vintage legal? Frankly, I don't care. This will probably get me blackballed, but.... I also don't give a hoot what you run or how legal it is or isn't. Just go out and have fun. I've gotten 1 (one) medal in 11 years of vintage racing; not a very successful effort, you might say. (so would I!). But I've had an 'effen blast! And met a bunch of great people. And did what I set out to do. OK, I wrote this last night and thought I'd sleep on it. After reading the comment about Formula Libra, I guess other people feel as I do. Were all the cars running today raced "back in the day" or were they built to go vintage racing today? Ever see a tech inspector crawl under your car and check to see if the drain plugs were safety wired? Or check brakes or diffs? Full disclosure: I run a Celica 5 speed, legal according to the rules. Hitachi carbs (the Japs took SU's and improved them). I don't like cheaters. I help with the Erie Marathon where 43% or our finishers qualified for the Boston Marathon, the goal of every good runner. The last couple years we ferreted out 3 cheaters. They will never, ever be allowed into the Boston Marathon. That's why I like running, kind of a pure sport where technology doesn't help you much. OK, end of rant. Hang loose. (I'm reading Brian Wilson's book, so I thought a surfing term would be ok!) Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Dentinger via Fot To: John Styduhar Cc: fot at autox. team. net Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2018 9:59 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. Bill Dentinger PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. Sent from my iPhone On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. Paul On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 An: Scott Janzen Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. DH On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. DH On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let alone my race car. Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM calipers. Henry On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I can rebuild at my leisure. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From macdonaldp at rogers.com Fri Mar 9 08:28:26 2018 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 10:28:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Wedge Nomination I would like to nominate Curt Johnston for membership. Curt is a long time Triumph owner, lives in the San Francisco area and has found A Huffaker TR8 convertible that is now being restored at the Huffaker garages. Here are a few words from Curt. People will be interested to learn that we will have both No. 11 cars driven by Lee Mueller at Monterey Car Week in August later this year (Carmel By The Sea Concours on the Avenue). These are the black TR7 and 8 convertibles. Lee also drove the silver TR7. In 2019, both cars should be at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. I wanted to wait a year on the historic races, so I could get enough experience to drive it myself. Its going to be really cool to see a couple of wedges at these events, and hopefully folks outside the wedge community will understand why we like these cars so much Pictures of his car are here https://www.flickr.com/photos/162456495 at N07/ He has mentioned that he would like to race at a future Kastner cup event. Can I get a second for Curt? Thanks Paul MacDonald -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 08:44:25 2018 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 07:44:25 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> <8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com> Just to finish off on the old time regulations and tires. Tires were never questioned. Use any tire that passed the safety regulation. BUT, the wheel rims were checked. You were only allowed 1/2" over the stock rim width and we never cared what kind of tire you put that rim. Seems lot more logical. I still have the big sheet aluminum calipers I made so that rim width could be check quickly without dismounting the wheel from the car or even jacking up. Certainly seems a lot more simple compared to trying to keep up with tire companies decide to do or when a certain brand was made or used or outlawed or what size was fitted to what car in the past. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 9:46 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: > In the 50's to early 70's days of the California Sports Car Club, if you > were caught, and many were, with parts or items that were not allowed you > were given a chance to defend yourself at the Contest Board meeting (once a > month) and if they found proof you were guilty as charged, you lost your > license for a YEAR. That's it, you did not race for a year in any class. > > I ran the Rules Enforcement group and was on the Contest Board which > consisted of current drivers in several classes. It was found most of the > cheating took place from about 6th place back to about 10th place. Nothing > much before that position or after the 10th place. Some entrants never > understood that other drivers REALLY were FAST and thus they thought the > leaders were the cheaters and that just was not true at all. Interesting. > No one wanted to have the name "cheater" attached to their name. Several > cars were checked each race by lottery for cubic capacity, weight, gears > ratios, body panels and other major parts. It was pretty pure racing. > > *Never be beaten by equipment.* > > On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 6:59 PM, Bill Dentinger via Fot > wrote: > >> Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note >> of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball >> Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> >> PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature >> race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but >> must have a minimum tread depth. >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot >> wrote: >> >> The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. >> And they do that at each gridding. >> >> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech >>> brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all >>> seems to be working good. >>> >>> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front >>> suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage >>> organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that >>> do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made >>> a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. >>> >>> Paul >>> >>> >>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot >>> wrote: >>> >>> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. >>> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. >>> >>> Cheers >>> Chris >>> >>> *Von:* Fot *Im Auftrag von *DAVE HOGYE via >>> Fot >>> *Gesendet:* Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 >>> *An:* Scott Janzen >>> *Cc:* Friends of Triumph' Triumph >>> *Betreff:* Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >>> >>> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look >>> very similar to the the P or PB calipers. >>> >>> DH >>> >>> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: >>> >>> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you >>> need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says >>> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, >>> design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no >>> increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. >>> >>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot >>> wrote: >>> >>> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as >>> needed. >>> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish >>> with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have >>> a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about >>> the quality. >>> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of >>> 3,800 miles. >>> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I >>> far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete >>> comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the >>> importance of good brakes. >>> >>> DH >>> >>> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot >>> wrote: >>> >>> >>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made >>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think >>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let >>> alone my race car. >>> >>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? >>> >>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM >>> calipers. >>> >>> Henry >>> >>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>> >>> >>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. >>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased >>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up >>> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I >>> can rebuild at my leisure. >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fo >>> t/dlhogye at comcast.net >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fo >>> t/sjanzen at me.com >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fo >>> t/paulricco at att.net >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com >> >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Fri Mar 9 09:16:21 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 11:16:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Ahhhh, That was "Tough Love", Kas. I was a vintage racer for over thirty years, and it was my experience that while the Vintage Sanctioning Bodies all seemed to have good intentions maintaining 'legal' race cars, they really did not have the horse power, nor where with-all to police such matters effectively. At one point the VSCDA came up with an idea to get the individual Race Groups heavily involved in policing. There were group Captains. Things improved for a while. Cheaters were exposed. But eventually it went away. Too much bickering. The GAIN did not exceed the PAIN. No one wanted to be Captain. The idea went away. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Kas Kastner To: BillDentin at aol.com Cc: John Styduhar ; fot at autox. team. net Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 9:47 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? In the 50's to early 70's days of the California Sports Car Club, if you were caught, and many were, with parts or items that were not allowed you were given a chance to defend yourself at the Contest Board meeting (once a month) and if they found proof you were guilty as charged, you lost your license for a YEAR. That's it, you did not race for a year in any class. I ran the Rules Enforcement group and was on the Contest Board which consisted of current drivers in several classes. It was found most of the cheating took place from about 6th place back to about 10th place. Nothing much before that position or after the 10th place. Some entrants never understood that other drivers REALLY were FAST and thus they thought the leaders were the cheaters and that just was not true at all. Interesting. No one wanted to have the name "cheater" attached to their name. Several cars were checked each race by lottery for cubic capacity, weight, gears ratios, body panels and other major parts. It was pretty pure racing. Never be beaten by equipment. On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 6:59 PM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. Bill Dentinger PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. Sent from my iPhone On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. Paul On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 An: Scott Janzen Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. DH On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. DH On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let alone my race car. Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM calipers. Henry On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I can rebuild at my leisure. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6driver at yahoo.com Fri Mar 9 09:51:31 2018 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 16:51:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Wedge Nomination References: <00ae01d3b7bb$4564aef0$d02e0cd0$@rogers.com> Second On Friday, March 9, 2018, 11:45:51 AM EST, Paul MacDonald via Fot wrote: I would like to nominate Curt Johnston for membership. Curt is a long time Triumph owner, lives in the San Francisco area and has found A Huffaker TR8 convertible that is now being restored at the Huffaker garages. Here are a few words from Curt. ? People will be interested to learn that we will have both No. 11 cars driven by Lee Mueller at Monterey Car Week in August later this year (Carmel By The Sea Concours on the Avenue).? These are the black TR7 and 8 convertibles.? Lee also drove the silver TR7.? In 2019, both cars should be at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion.? I wanted to wait a year on the historic races, so I could get enough experience to drive it myself.? Its going to be really cool to see a couple of wedges at these events, and hopefully folks outside the wedge community will understand why we like these cars so much ? Pictures of his car are here ? https://www.flickr.com/photos/162456495 at N07/ ? He has? mentioned that he would like to race at a future Kastner cup event. ? Can I get a second for Curt? ? Thanks ? Paul MacDonald _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From chasgee22 at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 10:00:01 2018 From: chasgee22 at gmail.com (chasgee22 at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 09:00:01 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Wedge Nomination References: <00ae01d3b7bb$4564aef0$d02e0cd0$@rogers.com> How cool is that! Second! Chuck > On Mar 9, 2018, at 7:28 AM, Paul MacDonald via Fot wrote: > > I would like to nominate Curt Johnston for membership. Curt is a long time Triumph owner, lives in the San Francisco area and has found A Huffaker TR8 convertible that is now being restored at the Huffaker garages. Here are a few words from Curt. > > People will be interested to learn that we will have both No. 11 cars driven by Lee Mueller at Monterey Car Week in August later this year (Carmel By The Sea Concours on the Avenue). These are the black TR7 and 8 convertibles. Lee also drove the silver TR7. In 2019, both cars should be at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. I wanted to wait a year on the historic races, so I could get enough experience to drive it myself. Its going to be really cool to see a couple of wedges at these events, and hopefully folks outside the wedge community will understand why we like these cars so much > > Pictures of his car are here > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/162456495 at N07/ > > He has mentioned that he would like to race at a future Kastner cup event. > > Can I get a second for Curt? > > Thanks > > Paul MacDonald > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 10:01:11 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 09:01:11 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Wedge Nomination References: <00ae01d3b7bb$4564aef0$d02e0cd0$@rogers.com> A California guy? With famous TR racers? I?ll 2nd that! Ironically I was watching the Mueller/PLN battle at the ARRC last night on YouTube... Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 9, 2018, at 7:28 AM, Paul MacDonald via Fot wrote: > > I would like to nominate Curt Johnston for membership. Curt is a long time Triumph owner, lives in the San Francisco area and has found A Huffaker TR8 convertible that is now being restored at the Huffaker garages. Here are a few words from Curt. > > People will be interested to learn that we will have both No. 11 cars driven by Lee Mueller at Monterey Car Week in August later this year (Carmel By The Sea Concours on the Avenue). These are the black TR7 and 8 convertibles. Lee also drove the silver TR7. In 2019, both cars should be at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. I wanted to wait a year on the historic races, so I could get enough experience to drive it myself. Its going to be really cool to see a couple of wedges at these events, and hopefully folks outside the wedge community will understand why we like these cars so much > > Pictures of his car are here > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/162456495 at N07/ > > He has mentioned that he would like to race at a future Kastner cup event. > > Can I get a second for Curt? > > Thanks > > Paul MacDonald > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 10:05:38 2018 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 11:05:38 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Wedge Nomination References: <00ae01d3b7bb$4564aef0$d02e0cd0$@rogers.com> Yes, and we will be in his neighborhood next year. Some special things are being planned, with Ken Knight at the Helm. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 9, 2018, at 9:28 AM, Paul MacDonald via Fot wrote: > > I would like to nominate Curt Johnston for membership. Curt is a long time Triumph owner, lives in the San Francisco area and has found A Huffaker TR8 convertible that is now being restored at the Huffaker garages. Here are a few words from Curt. > > People will be interested to learn that we will have both No. 11 cars driven by Lee Mueller at Monterey Car Week in August later this year (Carmel By The Sea Concours on the Avenue). These are the black TR7 and 8 convertibles. Lee also drove the silver TR7. In 2019, both cars should be at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. I wanted to wait a year on the historic races, so I could get enough experience to drive it myself. Its going to be really cool to see a couple of wedges at these events, and hopefully folks outside the wedge community will understand why we like these cars so much > > Pictures of his car are here > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/162456495 at N07/ > > He has mentioned that he would like to race at a future Kastner cup event. > > Can I get a second for Curt? > > Thanks > > Paul MacDonald > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Fri Mar 9 10:09:11 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 12:09:11 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Wedge Nomination References: <00ae01d3b7bb$4564aef0$d02e0cd0$@rogers.com> looks like quite a car, though I?m curious about the exhaust dumping out on the differential. Second! On Mar 9, 2018, at 10:28 AM, Paul MacDonald via Fot wrote: I would like to nominate Curt Johnston for membership. Curt is a long time Triumph owner, lives in the San Francisco area and has found A Huffaker TR8 convertible that is now being restored at the Huffaker garages. Here are a few words from Curt. People will be interested to learn that we will have both No. 11 cars driven by Lee Mueller at Monterey Car Week in August later this year (Carmel By The Sea Concours on the Avenue). These are the black TR7 and 8 convertibles. Lee also drove the silver TR7. In 2019, both cars should be at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. I wanted to wait a year on the historic races, so I could get enough experience to drive it myself. Its going to be really cool to see a couple of wedges at these events, and hopefully folks outside the wedge community will understand why we like these cars so much Pictures of his car are here https://www.flickr.com/photos/162456495 at N07/ He has mentioned that he would like to race at a future Kastner cup event. Can I get a second for Curt? Thanks Paul MacDonald _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Fri Mar 9 10:48:58 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 17:48:58 +0000 Subject: [Fot] K-Cup I note that when you click on the PVGP registration button you are directed to the entry for the 2017 event not the 2018 event......interesting [MHC-EmailSig_Attorneys_JohnHasty] CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Fri Mar 9 11:47:14 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 10:47:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Wedge Nomination References: <00ae01d3b7bb$4564aef0$d02e0cd0$@rogers.com> Second! I saw one of these cars at Huffaker being restored. They will be perfect and fast. I'll look forward to seeing them at show and speed. Welcome Curt. Dave H. > On March 9, 2018 at 7:28 AM Paul MacDonald via Fot wrote: > > > I would like to nominate Curt Johnston for membership. Curt is a long time Triumph owner, lives in the San Francisco area and has found A Huffaker TR8 convertible that is now being restored at the Huffaker garages. Here are a few words from Curt. > > > > People will be interested to learn that we will have both No. 11 cars driven by Lee Mueller at Monterey Car Week in August later this year (Carmel By The Sea Concours on the Avenue). These are the black TR7 and 8 convertibles. Lee also drove the silver TR7. In 2019, both cars should be at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. I wanted to wait a year on the historic races, so I could get enough experience to drive it myself. Its going to be really cool to see a couple of wedges at these events, and hopefully folks outside the wedge community will understand why we like these cars so much > > > > Pictures of his car are here > > > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/162456495 at N07/ https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.flickr.com%2Fphotos%2F162456495%40N07%2F&h=ATMiwl35-5s8lPBwqgULXGBR5kNH7zTWegsHtVzjtFn8eB1IKxUhx97J7-WTWSdj42smoGBD-wKkp_EH_RQgEF3C4c5-4aEPc7ROVNIXC1ngKDjVcjbIaMyKU3MLIY6_pw > > > > He has mentioned that he would like to race at a future Kastner cup event. > > > > Can I get a second for Curt? > > > > Thanks > > > > Paul MacDonald > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Fri Mar 9 12:07:17 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 11:07:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer isn't what it used to be Not to change the subject or anything, but man, have any of you checked out BaT recently. There is a Ferrari Daytona at that's at $485K. That bid is about 1/4 it's value. The auction ends in 5 days. It will probably be a no sale. There has been some crazy action on there recently and it's getting crazier by the day. A couple really crappy TR3As sold for more than $26 and $29K recently. Really crappy cars with really crappy paint, parts missing, very poor repairs and lots of Bondo. A basket case TR2 sold for $5,500 a couple weeks ago. It was matching numbers, but badly bent front and back and rusty. I guess $30K is now entry level in the collector car world. Oh, and my Toyota Tacoma 4X4 is gaining in value too. A 2001 just sold for over $20K. Mine was $27K new in '02. DH -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Fri Mar 9 12:20:45 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 09:20:45 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads References: I can?t think of a pad I?ve put into any of my British cars that I didn?t have to modify?either a little or a lot. Generally grinding some part of the backing plate to make the pad fit or engage the disk properly. Probably Porterfield doesn?t know this can occasionally be a problem because no one bothered to tell them over the last 25 years?they just did what was necessary to make the pads work. > On Mar 7, 2018, at 2:21 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Hello Amici, > > Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire. > > I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years. > > I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes. > > I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins. > > 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a general illustration and not correct for any specific application. > > They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through multiple Emails and a terse phone call. > > So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are: > > 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers? > > 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin? > > 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them out yourself? > > 4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo attached)? > > 5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any speed secrets, of course... > > I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my view... > > Your thoughts and experience are appreciated. > > > > > ?? > > Thanks! > > > Brad Eells > Chino CA > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4 > #76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3 > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bitishrm at comcast.net Fri Mar 9 12:37:50 2018 From: bitishrm at comcast.net (bitishrm at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 19:37:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Wedge Nomination References: <00ae01d3b7bb$4564aef0$d02e0cd0$@rogers.com> <281688983.10529953.1520614291972@mail.yahoo.com> Its an important piece of Triumph history. Who remembers when GM complained to the SCCA about being thrashed by this type of car. Cheers Richard North ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jamie Palmer via Fot" To: "Fot" Cc: "Curt & Debbie Johnston" Sent: Friday, March 9, 2018 8:51:31 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Wedge Nomination Second On Friday, March 9, 2018, 11:45:51 AM EST, Paul MacDonald via Fot wrote: I would like to nominate Curt Johnston for membership. Curt is a long time Triumph owner, lives in the San Francisco area and has found A Huffaker TR8 convertible that is now being restored at the Huffaker garages. Here are a few words from Curt. People will be interested to learn that we will have both No. 11 cars driven by Lee Mueller at Monterey Car Week in August later this year (Carmel By The Sea Concours on the Avenue). These are the black TR7 and 8 convertibles. Lee also drove the silver TR7. In 2019, both cars should be at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. I wanted to wait a year on the historic races, so I could get enough experience to drive it myself. Its going to be really cool to see a couple of wedges at these events, and hopefully folks outside the wedge community will understand why we like these cars so much Pictures of his car are here https://www.flickr.com/photos/162456495 at N07/ He has mentioned that he would like to race at a future Kastner cup event. Can I get a second for Curt? Thanks Paul MacDonald _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Fri Mar 9 12:54:27 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 09:54:27 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <1620b8c79d5-c8d-390d@webjas-vad015.srv.aolmail.net> Peyote has genuine Girling calipers that look pretty much like the lead boat anchors, but they are cast aluminum. As I recall they came from some GP car and are rare as hen?s teeth, more than a bit fragile, and bend enough to taper the bejesus out of the pads if you get enthusiastic, and have a very loose grip on any threads cut into them. I?d rather use Wilwoods, and I could probably get away with them most places. I have a set that came from my ridiculous NASCAR TR3, but nah. Cheater is a relative term in vintage racing. If you?re doing something egregious to push yourself to the front of the pack, then yeah, you?re a cheater. If you?re just tired of replacing the part that breaks every time you miss a shift or hit a hard bump, then maybe not so much. I?d rather the guy trying to outbrake me coming into the chicane have calipers that work than something ?legal?. But that?s me. Peyote is an easy car to cheat with. Who knows what it originally had. I?ve resisted the temptation more or less, because it already works really well. I like to run tires that grip predictably?call me crazy?but I?m willing to skate around on Dunlops when the organizers insist. I?m just not gonna buy any new ones. My Dunlops will never wear out, they?ve aged into about the same durometer rating as rollerblade wheels. Honestly, at this point, how much does it matter? Too many of the real race cars that used to make vintage races so special are collection queens and will never be seriously driven again?certainly not among us hoi polloi at our ratty little local events. Authentic and legal race bits for the assortment of production cars turned into race cars that make up the usual grid often can?t be sourced, and if they can, they?re crap. Have fun, don?t break, don?t crash. > On Mar 9, 2018, at 6:16 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > > Ahhhh, That was "Tough Love", Kas. > > I was a vintage racer for over thirty years, and it was my experience that while the Vintage Sanctioning Bodies all seemed to have good intentions maintaining 'legal' race cars, they really did not have the horse power, nor where with-all to police such matters effectively. At one point the VSCDA came up with an idea to get the individual Race Groups heavily involved in policing. There were group Captains. Things improved for a while. Cheaters were exposed. But eventually it went away. Too much bickering. The GAIN did not exceed the PAIN. No one wanted to be Captain. The idea went away. > > Bill Dentinger > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Kas Kastner > To: BillDentin at aol.com > Cc: John Styduhar ; fot at autox. team. net > Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 9:47 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? > > In the 50's to early 70's days of the California Sports Car Club, if you were caught, and many were, with parts or items that were not allowed you were given a chance to defend yourself at the Contest Board meeting (once a month) and if they found proof you were guilty as charged, you lost your license for a YEAR. That's it, you did not race for a year in any class. > > I ran the Rules Enforcement group and was on the Contest Board which consisted of current drivers in several classes. It was found most of the cheating took place from about 6th place back to about 10th place. Nothing much before that position or after the 10th place. Some entrants never understood that other drivers REALLY were FAST and thus they thought the leaders were the cheaters and that just was not true at all. Interesting. No one wanted to have the name "cheater" attached to their name. Several cars were checked each race by lottery for cubic capacity, weight, gears ratios, body panels and other major parts. It was pretty pure racing. > > Never be beaten by equipment. > > Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. > > Bill Dentinger > > PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. > > We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. > > It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. > > Paul > > > > I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. > I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. > > Cheers > Chris > > Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? > > Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. > > DH > > good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says > Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. > > > The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. > The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. > My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. > Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. > > DH > > > > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let > alone my race car. > > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? > > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM > calipers. > > Henry > > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. > That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased > another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up > just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I > can rebuild at my leisure. > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Fri Mar 9 13:58:54 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 15:58:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Bill... Your comments relative to the one-off Peyote, are similar to what Bob Wismer and I experienced with the Thunder Bolt. There was only one Thunder Bolt, and its chassis and drive train ended up under a Talisman body (a Tornado Cars "works decision" when the Talisman was introduced). We assumed that we then had the original Thunder Bolt body, which someone had mounted on a small lorry chassis, with a Standard (not TR) drive train. That's what we started with, and with Bill Woodhouse and Tony Bullen's help (the original Tornado Cars manufacturers) we built a true Thunder Bolt chassis, and put in a TR4 drive train. We took other liberties as well (mostly for personal convenience). We wanted stuff we were familiar with. But also performance enhancements. The original Thunder Bolt (1,650 pounds +/-) had a torquey TR3 engine and 9" drum brakes. It took off like an airplane, but would not stop or turn. First we put Jaguar disc brakes on all four corners, but that was overkill, and we changed to TR4 disc brakes. But the Thunder Bolt was so rare, no one knew what was right and what was wrong. So Bob and I had an agreement. One of us would lie, and the other would swear to it. It was no big deal, as we never drove that car anywhere near as fast as it would go. Too scary. At the end of Road America's front straight, it used to want to 'take off'. You could turn the steering wheel, but the car didn't seem to change direction. It was like the front wheels were off the ground. One time we let John Harkness drive it in a short practice session at Mid-Ohio. First time in the car, he was about 5-10% faster than the laps Bob or I were turning. His comment getting out of the car, was something like, "WOW! I wasn't really trying. There's PLENTY left." There's FAST CARS and there's FAST DRIVERS. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Bill To: Bill Dentinger Cc: kaskastner ; fot Sent: Fri, Mar 9, 2018 11:54 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Peyote has genuine Girling calipers that look pretty much like the lead boat anchors, but they are cast aluminum. As I recall they came from some GP car and are rare as hen?s teeth, more than a bit fragile, and bend enough to taper the bejesus out of the pads if you get enthusiastic, and have a very loose grip on any threads cut into them. I?d rather use Wilwoods, and I could probably get away with them most places. I have a set that came from my ridiculous NASCAR TR3, but nah. Cheater is a relative term in vintage racing. If you?re doing something egregious to push yourself to the front of the pack, then yeah, you?re a cheater. If you?re just tired of replacing the part that breaks every time you miss a shift or hit a hard bump, then maybe not so much. I?d rather the guy trying to outbrake me coming into the chicane have calipers that work than something ?legal?. But that?s me. Peyote is an easy car to cheat with. Who knows what it originally had. I?ve resisted the temptation more or less, because it already works really well. I like to run tires that grip predictably?call me crazy?but I?m willing to skate around on Dunlops when the organizers insist. I?m just not gonna buy any new ones. My Dunlops will never wear out, they?ve aged into about the same durometer rating as rollerblade wheels. Honestly, at this point, how much does it matter? Too many of the real race cars that used to make vintage races so special are collection queens and will never be seriously driven again?certainly not among us hoi polloi at our ratty little local events. Authentic and legal race bits for the assortment of production cars turned into race cars that make up the usual grid often can?t be sourced, and if they can, they?re crap. Have fun, don?t break, don?t crash. On Mar 9, 2018, at 6:16 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Ahhhh, That was "Tough Love", Kas. I was a vintage racer for over thirty years, and it was my experience that while the Vintage Sanctioning Bodies all seemed to have good intentions maintaining 'legal' race cars, they really did not have the horse power, nor where with-all to police such matters effectively. At one point the VSCDA came up with an idea to get the individual Race Groups heavily involved in policing. There were group Captains. Things improved for a while. Cheaters were exposed. But eventually it went away. Too much bickering. The GAIN did not exceed the PAIN. No one wanted to be Captain. The idea went away. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Kas Kastner To: BillDentin at aol.com Cc: John Styduhar ; fot at autox. team. net Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 9:47 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? In the 50's to early 70's days of the California Sports Car Club, if you were caught, and many were, with parts or items that were not allowed you were given a chance to defend yourself at the Contest Board meeting (once a month) and if they found proof you were guilty as charged, you lost your license for a YEAR. That's it, you did not race for a year in any class. I ran the Rules Enforcement group and was on the Contest Board which consisted of current drivers in several classes. It was found most of the cheating took place from about 6th place back to about 10th place. Nothing much before that position or after the 10th place. Some entrants never understood that other drivers REALLY were FAST and thus they thought the leaders were the cheaters and that just was not true at all. Interesting. No one wanted to have the name "cheater" attached to their name. Several cars were checked each race by lottery for cubic capacity, weight, gears ratios, body panels and other major parts. It was pretty pure racing. Never be beaten by equipment. On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 6:59 PM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. Bill Dentinger PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. Sent from my iPhone On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. Paul On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 An: Scott Janzen Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. DH On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. DH On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let alone my race car. Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM calipers. Henry On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I can rebuild at my leisure. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 18:21:21 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 20:21:21 -0500 Subject: [Fot] K-Cup References: ?Try this link ? http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 12:48 PM, John Hasty via Fot wrote: > I note that when you click on the PVGP registration button you are > directed to the entry for the 2017 event not the 2018 event??interesting > > > > [image: MHC-EmailSig_Attorneys_JohnHasty] > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by > a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that > > is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from > disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are > > hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy > or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. > > If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and > any attachments from your system without reading the > > content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. > There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive > > any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to > this communication. > > > > Thank you for your cooperation. > > > > 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people > file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by > a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is > confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from > disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified > that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate > this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this > message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your > system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the > inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to > waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may > attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. > 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for > bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Fri Mar 9 19:15:19 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 02:15:19 +0000 Subject: [Fot] K-Cup References: , An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 20:04:08 2018 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 21:04:08 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer isn't what it used to be References: <1655528474.459043.1520622437831@connect.xfinity.com> Dave, I?m hoping some of that craziness rubs off on the no-reserve auction of my supercharged 1970 Mini Countryman woody wagon, which started today. (Shameless plug here: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-mini-countryman-estate-woody/#comment-2072972 ) Weird stuff happens. I sold a 1957 4-seater Morgan Plus 4 there for a good price two years ago (and didn?t meet the very low reserve until 30 minutes before it was scheduled to end, but then the bidding really took off and I got far more than I expected), and two weeks later another 1957 4-seater sold for less than half what mine went for. The seller of the other Morgan wasn?t very involved and the car didn?t ?sparkle,? and maybe that was enough to make the difference. I?ve seen a few great deals there, particularly for vintage race cars. Some of the very serious bidders on more expensive cars make their appearance in the last few minutes. Buyers like the fact that the maximum buyer?s premium on BaT is $5000 (5% up to $100,000 sale price). Sellers like the fact that the auction doesn?t close until 2 minutes after the last bid. Duncan (Texas) > On Mar 9, 2018, at 1:07 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > Not to change the subject or anything, but man, have any of you checked out BaT recently. > > There is a Ferrari Daytona at that's at $485K. That bid is about 1/4 it's value. The auction ends in 5 days. It will probably be a no sale. > > There has been some crazy action on there recently and it's getting crazier by the day. > > A couple really crappy TR3As sold for more than $26 and $29K recently. Really crappy cars with really crappy paint, parts missing, very poor repairs and lots of Bondo. > > A basket case TR2 sold for $5,500 a couple weeks ago. It was matching numbers, but badly bent front and back and rusty. > > I guess $30K is now entry level in the collector car world. > > Oh, and my Toyota Tacoma 4X4 is gaining in value too. A 2001 just sold for over $20K. Mine was $27K new in '02. > > > > DH > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 20:05:28 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 22:05:28 -0500 Subject: [Fot] K-Cup References: Online portal website https://www.showclix.com/event/whatvxbubzqjwn5867841 *This on-line portal is for your payment and basic registration information only - you will still need to complete an application and send with a copy of your medical form and competition license to Donna McDonough.* On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 9:15 PM, John Hasty wrote: > Yep, got the paper entry, but thought you said you had to use the web site > to reserve & pay????? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 9, 2018, at 8:21 PM, John Styduhar wrote: > > ?Try this link > > ?http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018- > PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf > > > On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 12:48 PM, John Hasty via Fot > wrote: > >> I note that when you click on the PVGP registration button you are >> directed to the entry for the 2017 event not the 2018 event??interesting >> >> >> >> [image: MHC-EmailSig_Attorneys_JohnHasty] >> >> >> >> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent >> by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that >> >> is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt >> from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are >> >> hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy >> or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. >> >> If you have received this message in error, please delete this message >> and any attachments from your system without reading the >> >> content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent >> transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive >> >> any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach >> to this communication. >> >> >> >> Thank you for your cooperation. >> >> >> >> 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people >> file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. >> >> >> >> >> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent >> by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is >> confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from >> disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified >> that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate >> this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this >> message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your >> system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the >> inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to >> waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may >> attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. >> 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for >> bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >> >> >> >> > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by > a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is > confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from > disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified > that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate > this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this > message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your > system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the > inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to > waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may > attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. > 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for > bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mark at bradakis.com Fri Mar 9 22:27:49 2018 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 22:27:49 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Hacked Email? Bill Dentinger's email may have been comprimised, based on some posts that have come through team.net.? Look close before opening anything claiming to be from Damdinger, or, uh, ... mjb. From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Mar 10 00:18:57 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 01:18:57 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> <8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com> <8E35FFEE24954CEFBA469BBAC928A878@hpd530> Bill, I've really tried, but I can't help but respond to being called out in this one.? I know you said it doesn't matter to you, lets just race - and that's my feeling too. Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" debate - seems late in the season for it this time... But...? For the record, it's a Ford 8" rear end, not a 9". Remember when we used to break axles and roll our cars?? I do, very vividly.? The memory of the pavement whizzing by my left ear as I was sliding on the drivers door before the car started to barrel roll is indelibly printed in my memory.? Before the "southwick" axle conversion (which uses Ford 8" rear axle axles by the way), the fix for this was to put a Ford 8" or a Dana rear axle in the car instead of the stock unit.? It was a SAFETY change, not a performance improvement.? That's what the prior owner did to my car - put in a Ford 8" so it wouldn't roll.? It weighs more than a Triumph axle, and has roughly the same ratios available as a Triumph unit.? To switch to a Triumph axle would cost enough I'd need to take at least half a season off of racing, probably a full season.? Afterwards, my car would be FASTER because it would weigh LESS.? Is the Ford axle legal?? Probably not, now that the Southwick conversion is accepted by every vintage organization in the US for safety reasons.? Is it worth taking a year off of racing to put the "correct" part there?? I say - no, lets race instead. A strict reading of the axle housing must be stock rule would also prohibit the Southwick conversion and we're back to the cars destroying themselves.? That seems counterproductive to me, but I'm not a purist.? :) Billet cranks?? Carillo rods?? I don't think the '62 GCR allowed those.? Certainly not allowed when we ran SCCA in the early 70's. Many of us run those now because the stock stuff breaks and saws your engine in half.? However, THOSE DO provide a possible performance advantage over a strict reading of the rules because we can run higher RPM's semi-reliably.? Good stock stuff is hard to come by and we do what we have to in order to keep our awesome VINTAGE Triumph's on the track - I figure that's most of our justification for those parts. Uncle jack's car (Dad) was extremely legal, and when we raced each other our cars were virtually identical in performance.? So if I'm cheating to be faster I must be doing a bad job of it. To me, parts substitution that keeps our cars running is in a very gray area that some consider "cheating" and others consider "just keeping it running".? The trans replacement falls under that category.? I'm aware of one vintage organization that's taken a hard line on transmissions - Bill, yours would be illegal there. And as a result guys running GT-6's are pretty much screwed.? I don't know why the organization would rather see a competitor replace a tranny every race weekend rather than have them out on the track competing. I'm just glad that I get to do this as often as I can afford, and get to hang with a bunch of really neat people. I could write another book on front brakes (the original topic), one on various engine parts, carburetors, transmissions.? I already wrote the one on axles (above). I'd rather folks not be terribly nit-picky about this stuff and just appreciate the fact that we can muster up enough Triumphs at an event that the organizers WANT us there and will give us a race to ourselves. Regards, Tony Drews On 3/9/2018 8:06 AM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: > Bill, if all the cheaters in vintage were black flagged, half the > field wouldn't finish! Cheaters is a harsh word; non-compliant sounds > better. > I know of guys with mid-50's Corvettes, and one T Bird,?who run big > disc brakes, not the original drums. One of whom runs a vintage > organization!!!!!! > Also, I like Tony but a 9 inch Ford diff in a TR4? All vintage rules > say the diff housing has to be stock. > I also like Sam, who's given me a lot of advice over the years, but is > his car truely vintage legal? Frankly, I don't care. > This will probably get me blackballed, but.... > I also don't give a hoot what you run or how legal it is or isn't. > Just go out and have fun. > I've gotten 1 (one) medal in 11 years of vintage racing; not a very > successful effort, you might say. (so would I!). But I've had an > 'effen blast! And met a bunch of great people. And did what I set out > to do. > OK, I wrote this last night and thought I'd sleep on it. After reading > the comment about Formula Libra, I guess other people feel as I do. > Were all the cars running today raced "back in the day" or were they > built to go vintage racing today? > Ever see a tech inspector crawl under your car and check to see if the > drain plugs were safety wired? Or check brakes or diffs? > Full disclosure: I run a Celica 5 speed, legal according to the rules. > Hitachi carbs (the Japs took SU's and improved them). > I don't like cheaters. I help with the Erie Marathon where 43% or our > finishers qualified for the Boston Marathon, the goal of every good > runner. The last couple years we ferreted out 3 cheaters. They will > never, ever be allowed into the Boston Marathon. That's why I like > running, kind of a pure sport where technology doesn't help you much. > OK, end of rant. > Hang loose. (I'm reading Brian Wilson's book, so I thought a surfing > term would be ok!) > Bill > > ----- Original Message ----- > *Sent:* Thursday, March 08, 2018 9:59 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? > > Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a > note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with > a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. > > Bill Dentinger > > PS Three sets of tires needed. ?One for qualifying...one for the > feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be > experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot > >> The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my >> experience.? And they do that at each gridding. >> >> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot >> >> We have not had issues with stock calipers.? We run Hawk or >> Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid.? We do bleed the >> brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. >> >> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight >> on the front suspension by switching to aluminum.? However, I >> do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it >> by their rules.? We all know that that do not get enforced on >> a regular basis.? However, I do think SVRA has made a great >> effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their >> events. >> >> Paul >> >> >>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot >>> >>> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. >>> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well >>> for me. >>> Cheers >>> Chris >>> *Von:*Fot >> HOGYE via Fot >>> *Gesendet:*Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 >>> *Cc:*Friends of Triumph' Triumph >> *Betreff:*Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >>> Good call, Scott.? The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but >>> otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. >>> DH >>>> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen >>> >>>> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced.? >>>> VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says >>>> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same >>>> material, design and number of pistons as the original >>>> component. There must be no increase in the frictional >>>> surface of the pads or shoes. >>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot >>>> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but >>>> seem to work as needed. >>>> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow >>>> (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings.? The >>>> second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish >>>> and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about >>>> the quality. >>>> My first set has been on my car from 2013. ?13 race >>>> weekends a total of 3,800 miles. >>>> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now.? They are >>>> anodized black.? I far as I can tell, they will fit our >>>> Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course >>>> the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance >>>> of good brakes. >>>> >>>> DH >>>> >>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they >>>>> are made >>>>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't >>>>> want to think >>>>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a >>>>> street car, let >>>>> alone my race car. >>>>> >>>>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? >>>>> >>>>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm >>>>> rebuilding OEM >>>>> calipers. >>>>> >>>>> Henry >>>>> >>>>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 >>>>>> each new. >>>>>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part.? I >>>>>> purchased >>>>>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, >>>>>> but ended up >>>>>> just changing pads.? I'm glad to have a new pair standing >>>>>> by.? Then I >>>>>> can rebuild at my leisure. >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>> >>>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> >>>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >>>> >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6driver at yahoo.com Sat Mar 10 05:06:18 2018 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 12:06:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer isn't what it used to be References: <1655528474.459043.1520622437831@connect.xfinity.com> <31EF0F0E-E608-487B-9BA7-1BA12008FE0F@gmail.com> Duncan, I just spent 15 minutes fantasizing that I could afford your Countryman while looking through the pictures...thank you for a nice interlude to start my Saturday morning!? GLWTS! Jamie On Saturday, March 10, 2018, 2:28:22 AM EST, Duncan Charlton via Fot wrote: Dave, I?m hoping some of that craziness rubs off on the no-reserve auction of my supercharged 1970 Mini Countryman woody wagon, which started today. ?(Shameless plug here: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-mini-countryman-estate-woody/#comment-2072972) Weird stuff happens. ?I sold a 1957 4-seater Morgan Plus 4 there for a good price two years ago (and didn?t meet the very low reserve until 30 minutes before it was scheduled to end, but then the bidding really took off and I got far more than I expected), and two weeks later another 1957 4-seater sold for less than half what mine went for. ?The seller of the other Morgan wasn?t very involved and the car didn?t ?sparkle,? and maybe that was enough to make the difference. I?ve seen a few great deals there, particularly for vintage race cars. Some of the very serious bidders on more expensive cars make their appearance in the last few minutes. ?Buyers like the fact that the maximum buyer?s premium on BaT is $5000 (5% up to $100,000 sale price). ?Sellers like the fact that the auction doesn?t close until 2 minutes after the last bid. Duncan(Texas) On Mar 9, 2018, at 1:07 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: Not to change the subject or anything, but man, have any of you checked out BaT recently.?? There is a Ferrari Daytona at that's at $485K.? That bid is about 1/4 it's value.? The auction ends in 5 days.? It will probably be a no sale. There has been some crazy action on there recently and it's getting crazier by the day. A couple really crappy TR3As sold for more than $26 and $29K recently.? Really crappy cars with really crappy paint, parts missing, very poor repairs and lots of Bondo. A basket case TR2 sold for $5,500 a couple weeks ago.? It was matching numbers, but badly bent front and back and rusty. I guess $30K is now entry level in the collector car world.?? Oh, and my Toyota Tacoma 4X4 is gaining in value too.? A 2001 just sold for over $20K.? Mine was $27K new in '02. DH ?? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6driver at yahoo.com Sat Mar 10 05:06:18 2018 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 12:06:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer isn't what it used to be References: <1655528474.459043.1520622437831@connect.xfinity.com> <31EF0F0E-E608-487B-9BA7-1BA12008FE0F@gmail.com> Duncan, I just spent 15 minutes fantasizing that I could afford your Countryman while looking through the pictures...thank you for a nice interlude to start my Saturday morning!? GLWTS! Jamie On Saturday, March 10, 2018, 2:28:22 AM EST, Duncan Charlton via Fot wrote: Dave, I?m hoping some of that craziness rubs off on the no-reserve auction of my supercharged 1970 Mini Countryman woody wagon, which started today. ?(Shameless plug here: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-mini-countryman-estate-woody/#comment-2072972) Weird stuff happens. ?I sold a 1957 4-seater Morgan Plus 4 there for a good price two years ago (and didn?t meet the very low reserve until 30 minutes before it was scheduled to end, but then the bidding really took off and I got far more than I expected), and two weeks later another 1957 4-seater sold for less than half what mine went for. ?The seller of the other Morgan wasn?t very involved and the car didn?t ?sparkle,? and maybe that was enough to make the difference. I?ve seen a few great deals there, particularly for vintage race cars. Some of the very serious bidders on more expensive cars make their appearance in the last few minutes. ?Buyers like the fact that the maximum buyer?s premium on BaT is $5000 (5% up to $100,000 sale price). ?Sellers like the fact that the auction doesn?t close until 2 minutes after the last bid. Duncan(Texas) On Mar 9, 2018, at 1:07 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: Not to change the subject or anything, but man, have any of you checked out BaT recently.?? There is a Ferrari Daytona at that's at $485K.? That bid is about 1/4 it's value.? The auction ends in 5 days.? It will probably be a no sale. There has been some crazy action on there recently and it's getting crazier by the day. A couple really crappy TR3As sold for more than $26 and $29K recently.? Really crappy cars with really crappy paint, parts missing, very poor repairs and lots of Bondo. A basket case TR2 sold for $5,500 a couple weeks ago.? It was matching numbers, but badly bent front and back and rusty. I guess $30K is now entry level in the collector car world.?? Oh, and my Toyota Tacoma 4X4 is gaining in value too.? A 2001 just sold for over $20K.? Mine was $27K new in '02. DH ?? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Sat Mar 10 05:54:43 2018 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 06:54:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <1620b8c79d5-c8d-390d@webjas-vad015.srv.aolmail.net> I think Bill Devin sold the aluminum Girlings, maybe even had them made. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 9, 2018, at 1:54 PM, Bill via Fot wrote: > > Peyote has genuine Girling calipers that look pretty much like the lead boat anchors, but they are cast aluminum. As I recall they came from some GP car and are rare as hen?s teeth, more than a bit fragile, and bend enough to taper the bejesus out of the pads if you get enthusiastic, and have a very loose grip on any threads cut into them. I?d rather use Wilwoods, and I could probably get away with them most places. I have a set that came from my ridiculous NASCAR TR3, but nah. > > Cheater is a relative term in vintage racing. If you?re doing something egregious to push yourself to the front of the pack, then yeah, you?re a cheater. If you?re just tired of replacing the part that breaks every time you miss a shift or hit a hard bump, then maybe not so much. I?d rather the guy trying to outbrake me coming into the chicane have calipers that work than something ?legal?. But that?s me. Peyote is an easy car to cheat with. Who knows what it originally had. I?ve resisted the temptation more or less, because it already works really well. I like to run tires that grip predictably?call me crazy?but I?m willing to skate around on Dunlops when the organizers insist. I?m just not gonna buy any new ones. My Dunlops will never wear out, they?ve aged into about the same durometer rating as rollerblade wheels. > > Honestly, at this point, how much does it matter? Too many of the real race cars that used to make vintage races so special are collection queens and will never be seriously driven again?certainly not among us hoi polloi at our ratty little local events. Authentic and legal race bits for the assortment of production cars turned into race cars that make up the usual grid often can?t be sourced, and if they can, they?re crap. Have fun, don?t break, don?t crash. > >> On Mar 9, 2018, at 6:16 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >> >> Ahhhh, That was "Tough Love", Kas. >> >> I was a vintage racer for over thirty years, and it was my experience that while the Vintage Sanctioning Bodies all seemed to have good intentions maintaining 'legal' race cars, they really did not have the horse power, nor where with-all to police such matters effectively. At one point the VSCDA came up with an idea to get the individual Race Groups heavily involved in policing. There were group Captains. Things improved for a while. Cheaters were exposed. But eventually it went away. Too much bickering. The GAIN did not exceed the PAIN. No one wanted to be Captain. The idea went away. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Kas Kastner >> To: BillDentin at aol.com >> Cc: John Styduhar ; fot at autox. team. net >> Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 9:47 pm >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >> >> In the 50's to early 70's days of the California Sports Car Club, if you were caught, and many were, with parts or items that were not allowed you were given a chance to defend yourself at the Contest Board meeting (once a month) and if they found proof you were guilty as charged, you lost your license for a YEAR. That's it, you did not race for a year in any class. >> >> I ran the Rules Enforcement group and was on the Contest Board which consisted of current drivers in several classes. It was found most of the cheating took place from about 6th place back to about 10th place. Nothing much before that position or after the 10th place. Some entrants never understood that other drivers REALLY were FAST and thus they thought the leaders were the cheaters and that just was not true at all. Interesting. No one wanted to have the name "cheater" attached to their name. Several cars were checked each race by lottery for cubic capacity, weight, gears ratios, body panels and other major parts. It was pretty pure racing. >> >> Never be beaten by equipment. >> >> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 6:59 PM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >> Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> >> PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: >> >> The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. >> >> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: >> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. >> >> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. >> >> Paul >> >> >> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >> >> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. >> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. >> >> Cheers >> Chris >> >> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot >> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 >> An: Scott Janzen >> Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph >> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >> >> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. >> >> DH >> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: >> >> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says >> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. >> >> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >> >> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. >> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. >> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. >> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. >> >> DH >> >> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: >> >> >> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made >> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think >> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let >> alone my race car. >> >> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? >> >> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM >> calipers. >> >> Henry >> >> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >> >> >> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. >> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased >> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up >> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I >> can rebuild at my leisure. >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Sat Mar 10 09:58:41 2018 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 08:58:41 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> <8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com> <8E35FFEE24954CEFBA469BBAC928A878@hpd530> <38fc19de-e0b3-23d2-797b-d741d26629c1@tonydrews.com> There are times when you wish you had just shut up and let the thread pass you by. I have just had one of those times. It was not my intent to cast any aspersions but just to tell how it was back when. It was a different world. If you wanted to make a phone call you needed a nickle but a phone box was on every corner and gasoline was 28 cents a gallon and it was 100 octane. So maybe I should have commented on that instead. Certainly if you adhere to the old rules the field would seen be down to three or four cars and they might not make it to the end of a race. I have no complaint about the present manner of preparation or driving either. Have a good time and use what ever is needed to get to the end. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 11:18 PM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > Bill, I've really tried, but I can't help but respond to being called out > in this one. I know you said it doesn't matter to you, lets just race - > and that's my feeling too. > > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" > debate - seems late in the season for it this time... > > But... For the record, it's a Ford 8" rear end, not a 9". Remember when > we used to break axles and roll our cars? I do, very vividly. The memory > of the pavement whizzing by my left ear as I was sliding on the drivers > door before the car started to barrel roll is indelibly printed in my > memory. Before the "southwick" axle conversion (which uses Ford 8" rear > axle axles by the way), the fix for this was to put a Ford 8" or a Dana > rear axle in the car instead of the stock unit. It was a SAFETY change, > not a performance improvement. That's what the prior owner did to my car - > put in a Ford 8" so it wouldn't roll. It weighs more than a Triumph axle, > and has roughly the same ratios available as a Triumph unit. To switch to > a Triumph axle would cost enough I'd need to take at least half a season > off of racing, probably a full season. Afterwards, my car would be FASTER > because it would weigh LESS. Is the Ford axle legal? Probably not, now > that the Southwick conversion is accepted by every vintage organization in > the US for safety reasons. Is it worth taking a year off of racing to put > the "correct" part there? I say - no, lets race instead. > > A strict reading of the axle housing must be stock rule would also > prohibit the Southwick conversion and we're back to the cars destroying > themselves. That seems counterproductive to me, but I'm not a purist. :) > > Billet cranks? Carillo rods? I don't think the '62 GCR allowed those. > Certainly not allowed when we ran SCCA in the early 70's. Many of us run > those now because the stock stuff breaks and saws your engine in half. > However, THOSE DO provide a possible performance advantage over a strict > reading of the rules because we can run higher RPM's semi-reliably. Good > stock stuff is hard to come by and we do what we have to in order to keep > our awesome VINTAGE Triumph's on the track - I figure that's most of our > justification for those parts. > > Uncle jack's car (Dad) was extremely legal, and when we raced each other > our cars were virtually identical in performance. So if I'm cheating to be > faster I must be doing a bad job of it. > > To me, parts substitution that keeps our cars running is in a very gray > area that some consider "cheating" and others consider "just keeping it > running". The trans replacement falls under that category. I'm aware of > one vintage organization that's taken a hard line on transmissions - Bill, > yours would be illegal there. And as a result guys running GT-6's are > pretty much screwed. I don't know why the organization would rather see a > competitor replace a tranny every race weekend rather than have them out on > the track competing. > > I'm just glad that I get to do this as often as I can afford, and get to > hang with a bunch of really neat people. > > I could write another book on front brakes (the original topic), one on > various engine parts, carburetors, transmissions. I already wrote the one > on axles (above). > > I'd rather folks not be terribly nit-picky about this stuff and just > appreciate the fact that we can muster up enough Triumphs at an event that > the organizers WANT us there and will give us a race to ourselves. > > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 3/9/2018 8:06 AM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: > > Bill, if all the cheaters in vintage were black flagged, half the field > wouldn't finish! Cheaters is a harsh word; non-compliant sounds better. > I know of guys with mid-50's Corvettes, and one T Bird, who run big disc > brakes, not the original drums. One of whom runs a vintage > organization!!!!!! > Also, I like Tony but a 9 inch Ford diff in a TR4? All vintage rules say > the diff housing has to be stock. > I also like Sam, who's given me a lot of advice over the years, but is his > car truely vintage legal? Frankly, I don't care. > This will probably get me blackballed, but.... > I also don't give a hoot what you run or how legal it is or isn't. Just go > out and have fun. > I've gotten 1 (one) medal in 11 years of vintage racing; not a very > successful effort, you might say. (so would I!). But I've had an 'effen > blast! And met a bunch of great people. And did what I set out to do. > > OK, I wrote this last night and thought I'd sleep on it. After reading the > comment about Formula Libra, I guess other people feel as I do. > Were all the cars running today raced "back in the day" or were they built > to go vintage racing today? > Ever see a tech inspector crawl under your car and check to see if the > drain plugs were safety wired? Or check brakes or diffs? > Full disclosure: I run a Celica 5 speed, legal according to the rules. > Hitachi carbs (the Japs took SU's and improved them). > I don't like cheaters. I help with the Erie Marathon where 43% or our > finishers qualified for the Boston Marathon, the goal of every good runner. > The last couple years we ferreted out 3 cheaters. They will never, ever be > allowed into the Boston Marathon. That's why I like running, kind of a pure > sport where technology doesn't help you much. > OK, end of rant. > Hang loose. (I'm reading Brian Wilson's book, so I thought a surfing term > would be ok!) > Bill > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Bill Dentinger via Fot > *To:* John Styduhar > *Cc:* fot at autox. team. net > *Sent:* Thursday, March 08, 2018 9:59 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? > > Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of > tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag > after one lap in the Feature Race. > > Bill Dentinger > > PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature > race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but > must have a minimum tread depth. > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot > wrote: > > The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And > they do that at each gridding. > > On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot > wrote: > >> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech >> brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all >> seems to be working good. >> >> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front >> suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage >> organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that >> do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made >> a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. >> >> Paul >> >> >> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot >> wrote: >> >> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. >> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. >> >> Cheers >> Chris >> >> *Von:* Fot *Im Auftrag von *DAVE HOGYE via >> Fot >> *Gesendet:* Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 >> *An:* Scott Janzen >> *Cc:* Friends of Triumph' Triumph >> *Betreff:* Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >> >> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look >> very similar to the the P or PB calipers. >> >> DH >> >> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: >> >> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you >> need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says >> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, >> design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no >> increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. >> >> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot >> wrote: >> >> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as >> needed. >> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish >> with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have >> a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about >> the quality. >> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of >> 3,800 miles. >> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I >> far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete >> comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the >> importance of good brakes. >> >> DH >> >> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot >> wrote: >> >> >> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made >> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think >> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let >> alone my race car. >> >> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? >> >> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM >> calipers. >> >> Henry >> >> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >> >> >> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. >> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased >> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up >> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I >> can rebuild at my leisure. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/ >> fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/ >> fot/sjanzen at me.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/ >> fot/paulricco at att.net >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > > > > _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tlizzard at msn.com Sat Mar 10 11:47:12 2018 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 18:47:12 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <1620b8c79d5-c8d-390d@webjas-vad015.srv.aolmail.net> , <722096BD-8751-4B36-8316-40C7517382E3@gmail.com> I thought they were OE Aston Martin bits? Terry Stetler Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Bob Kramer via Fot Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 7:54:43 AM To: Bill Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? I think Bill Devin sold the aluminum Girlings, maybe even had them made. Sent from my iPhone Peyote has genuine Girling calipers that look pretty much like the lead boat anchors, but they are cast aluminum. As I recall they came from some GP car and are rare as hen?s teeth, more than a bit fragile, and bend enough to taper the bejesus out of the pads if you get enthusiastic, and have a very loose grip on any threads cut into them. I?d rather use Wilwoods, and I could probably get away with them most places. I have a set that came from my ridiculous NASCAR TR3, but nah. Cheater is a relative term in vintage racing. If you?re doing something egregious to push yourself to the front of the pack, then yeah, you?re a cheater. If you?re just tired of replacing the part that breaks every time you miss a shift or hit a hard bump, then maybe not so much. I?d rather the guy trying to outbrake me coming into the chicane have calipers that work than something ?legal?. But that?s me. Peyote is an easy car to cheat with. Who knows what it originally had. I?ve resisted the temptation more or less, because it already works really well. I like to run tires that grip predictably?call me crazy?but I?m willing to skate around on Dunlops when the organizers insist. I?m just not gonna buy any new ones. My Dunlops will never wear out, they?ve aged into about the same durometer rating as rollerblade wheels. Honestly, at this point, how much does it matter? Too many of the real race cars that used to make vintage races so special are collection queens and will never be seriously driven again?certainly not among us hoi polloi at our ratty little local events. Authentic and legal race bits for the assortment of production cars turned into race cars that make up the usual grid often can?t be sourced, and if they can, they?re crap. Have fun, don?t break, don?t crash. Ahhhh, That was "Tough Love", Kas. I was a vintage racer for over thirty years, and it was my experience that while the Vintage Sanctioning Bodies all seemed to have good intentions maintaining 'legal' race cars, they really did not have the horse power, nor where with-all to police such matters effectively. At one point the VSCDA came up with an idea to get the individual Race Groups heavily involved in policing. There were group Captains. Things improved for a while. Cheaters were exposed. But eventually it went away. Too much bickering. The GAIN did not exceed the PAIN. No one wanted to be Captain. The idea went away. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 9:47 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? In the 50's to early 70's days of the California Sports Car Club, if you were caught, and many were, with parts or items that were not allowed you were given a chance to defend yourself at the Contest Board meeting (once a month) and if they found proof you were guilty as charged, you lost your license for a YEAR. That's it, you did not race for a year in any class. I ran the Rules Enforcement group and was on the Contest Board which consisted of current drivers in several classes. It was found most of the cheating took place from about 6th place back to about 10th place. Nothing much before that position or after the 10th place. Some entrants never understood that other drivers REALLY were FAST and thus they thought the leaders were the cheaters and that just was not true at all. Interesting. No one wanted to have the name "cheater" attached to their name. Several cars were checked each race by lottery for cubic capacity, weight, gears ratios, body panels and other major parts. It was pretty pure racing. Never be beaten by equipment. Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. Bill Dentinger PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. Sent from my iPhone The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. Paul I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. Cheers Chris Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. DH good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. DH I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let alone my race car. Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM calipers. Henry On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I can rebuild at my leisure. _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Mar 10 12:20:50 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 13:20:50 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <16211177fe5-c87-ac5f@webjas-vaa172.srv.aolmail.net> Why I run a beefy rear axle - don't want to do this again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PX82xKLZ2JE Regards, Tony Drews On 3/10/2018 12:06 PM, Bill Dentinger wrote: > Tony... > > AGREED!? Well said.? Do the FOT a service, and send out a link to the > video of your ROAD AMERICA roll over.? It would be good for us to > revisit that.? A picture's worth a thousand words, and that in-race > car video provides great background documentation for approving > upgrades for Safety. > > Bill Dentinger > > PS Sorry about describing the FORD diff as 9", when in fact it is only > an 8".? I have a dimension issue.? My wife accuses me of describing > stuff bigger than it really is. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: timmmurphh > To: 'Tony Drews' ; 'Bill Tobin' > ; billdentin ; 'John > Styduhar' > Sent: Sat, Mar 10, 2018 9:56 am > Subject: RE: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? > > As always Tony, well said! > Tim > * > * -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Mar 10 12:30:34 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 13:30:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> <8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com> <8E35FFEE24954CEFBA469BBAC928A878@hpd530> <38fc19de-e0b3-23d2-797b-d741d26629c1@tonydrews.com> To be clear, I didn't take offense at Bill Tobin's comment and subsequent discussion.? I'm a big boy and can take some ribbing. But, the subject has come up enough times with some insinuation of "illegality" that I wanted to make clear that to ME, it's not cheating to run a Ford 8" rear axle.? It's self preservation.? If someone thinks it's cheating / illegal, they are entitled to their opinion and I'm unlikely to change their mind. I did replace the fiberglass parts that came on my race car with steel parts because running the fiberglass felt like cheating to me.? But I don't give the fellow competitors with fiberglass or carbon fiber parts grief - I'm just happy they are at the track. You can pick virtually any part of the car (remember front brakes?) and have the "oh my god, that's ILLEGAL" discussion.? Not everyone will agree with you.? That's fine - if everyone agreed with me, the world would be a twisted place.? Maybe a better place, but I'm not going to bank on that. Personally, I find it more interesting to discuss what works and what doesn't on our cars. I hope everyone has a great racing season and I hope to have the opportunity to race you hard but clean. Regards, Tony On 3/10/2018 10:58 AM, Kas Kastner wrote: > There are times when you wish you had just shut up and let the thread > pass you by.? I have just had one of those times.? It was not my > intent to cast any aspersions but just to tell how it was back when. > It was a different world. If you wanted to make a phone call you > needed a nickle but a phone box was on every corner and gasoline was > 28 cents a gallon and it was 100 octane.? So maybe I should have > commented on that instead. > > Certainly if you adhere to the old rules the field would seen? be down > to three or four cars and they might not make it to the end of a > race.? I have no complaint about the present manner of preparation or > driving either.? Have a good time and use what ever is needed to get > to the end. > > *Never be beaten by equipment.* > > > On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 11:18 PM, Tony Drews via Fot > > Bill, I've really tried, but I can't help but respond to being > called out in this one.? I know you said it doesn't matter to you, > lets just race - and that's my feeling too. > > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is > vintage" debate - seems late in the season for it this time... > > But...? For the record, it's a Ford 8" rear end, not a 9".? > Remember when we used to break axles and roll our cars?? I do, > very vividly.? The memory of the pavement whizzing by my left ear > as I was sliding on the drivers door before the car started to > barrel roll is indelibly printed in my memory.? Before the > "southwick" axle conversion (which uses Ford 8" rear axle axles by > the way), the fix for this was to put a Ford 8" or a Dana rear > axle in the car instead of the stock unit.? It was a SAFETY > change, not a performance improvement.? That's what the prior > owner did to my car - put in a Ford 8" so it wouldn't roll.? It > weighs more than a Triumph axle, and has roughly the same ratios > available as a Triumph unit.? To switch to a Triumph axle would > cost enough I'd need to take at least half a season off of racing, > probably a full season.? Afterwards, my car would be FASTER > because it would weigh LESS.? Is the Ford axle legal?? Probably > not, now that the Southwick conversion is accepted by every > vintage organization in the US for safety reasons.? Is it worth > taking a year off of racing to put the "correct" part there?? I > say - no, lets race instead. > > A strict reading of the axle housing must be stock rule would also > prohibit the Southwick conversion and we're back to the cars > destroying themselves.? That seems counterproductive to me, but > I'm not a purist.? :) > > Billet cranks?? Carillo rods?? I don't think the '62 GCR allowed > those.? Certainly not allowed when we ran SCCA in the early 70's.? > Many of us run those now because the stock stuff breaks and saws > your engine in half.? However, THOSE DO provide a possible > performance advantage over a strict reading of the rules because > we can run higher RPM's semi-reliably.? Good stock stuff is hard > to come by and we do what we have to in order to keep our awesome > VINTAGE Triumph's on the track - I figure that's most of our > justification for those parts. > > Uncle jack's car (Dad) was extremely legal, and when we raced each > other our cars were virtually identical in performance.? So if I'm > cheating to be faster I must be doing a bad job of it. > > To me, parts substitution that keeps our cars running is in a very > gray area that some consider "cheating" and others consider "just > keeping it running".? The trans replacement falls under that > category.? I'm aware of one vintage organization that's taken a > hard line on transmissions - Bill, yours would be illegal there.? > And as a result guys running GT-6's are pretty much screwed.? I > don't know why the organization would rather see a competitor > replace a tranny every race weekend rather than have them out on > the track competing. > > I'm just glad that I get to do this as often as I can afford, and > get to hang with a bunch of really neat people. > > I could write another book on front brakes (the original topic), > one on various engine parts, carburetors, transmissions.? I > already wrote the one on axles (above). > > I'd rather folks not be terribly nit-picky about this stuff and > just appreciate the fact that we can muster up enough Triumphs at > an event that the organizers WANT us there and will give us a race > to ourselves. > > Regards, Tony Drews > > > On 3/9/2018 8:06 AM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: >> Bill, if all the cheaters in vintage were black flagged, half the >> field wouldn't finish! Cheaters is a harsh word; non-compliant >> sounds better. >> I know of guys with mid-50's Corvettes, and one T Bird,?who run >> big disc brakes, not the original drums. One of whom runs a >> vintage organization!!!!!! >> Also, I like Tony but a 9 inch Ford diff in a TR4? All vintage >> rules say the diff housing has to be stock. >> I also like Sam, who's given me a lot of advice over the years, >> but is his car truely vintage legal? Frankly, I don't care. >> This will probably get me blackballed, but.... >> I also don't give a hoot what you run or how legal it is or >> isn't. Just go out and have fun. >> I've gotten 1 (one) medal in 11 years of vintage racing; not a >> very successful effort, you might say. (so would I!). But I've >> had an 'effen blast! And met a bunch of great people. And did >> what I set out to do. >> OK, I wrote this last night and thought I'd sleep on it. After >> reading the comment about Formula Libra, I guess other people >> feel as I do. >> Were all the cars running today raced "back in the day" or were >> they built to go vintage racing today? >> Ever see a tech inspector crawl under your car and check to see >> if the drain plugs were safety wired? Or check brakes or diffs? >> Full disclosure: I run a Celica 5 speed, legal according to the >> rules. Hitachi carbs (the Japs took SU's and improved them). >> I don't like cheaters. I help with the Erie Marathon where 43% or >> our finishers qualified for the Boston Marathon, the goal of >> every good runner. The last couple years we ferreted out 3 >> cheaters. They will never, ever be allowed into the Boston >> Marathon. That's why I like running, kind of a pure sport where >> technology doesn't help you much. >> OK, end of rant. >> Hang loose. (I'm reading Brian Wilson's book, so I thought a >> surfing term would be ok!) >> Bill >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> *Sent:* Thursday, March 08, 2018 9:59 PM >> *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >> >> Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would >> take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then >> bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the >> Feature Race. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> >> PS Three sets of tires needed.? One for qualifying...one for >> the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter >> set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot >> >>> The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my >>> experience.? And they do that at each gridding. >>> >>> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot >>> >>> We have not had issues with stock calipers.? We run Hawk >>> or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid.? We do >>> bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working >>> good. >>> >>> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung >>> weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. >>> However, I do not know of any vintage organization that >>> really allows it by their rules.? We all know that that >>> do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do >>> think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use >>> a stock type caliper at their events. >>> >>> Paul >>> >>> >>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot >>>> >>>> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. >>>> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working >>>> well for me. >>>> Cheers >>>> Chris >>>> *Von:*Fot >>> von*DAVE HOGYE via Fot >>>> *Gesendet:*Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 >>>> *Cc:*Friends of Triumph' Triumph >>> *Betreff:*Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake >>>> calipers? >>>> Good call, Scott.? The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, >>>> but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB >>>> calipers. >>>> DH >>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen >>>>> >>>>> good to check your club rules first though, if >>>>> enforced.? VRG says you need to use the original >>>>> equipment, and SVRA says >>>>> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the >>>>> same material, design and number of pistons as the >>>>> original component. There must be no increase in the >>>>> frictional surface of the pads or shoes. >>>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot >>>>> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, >>>>> but seem to work as needed. >>>>> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow >>>>> (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings.? The >>>>> second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver >>>>> finish and no numbers in the casting which made me >>>>> wonder about the quality. >>>>> My first set has been on my car from 2013. ?13 race >>>>> weekends a total of 3,800 miles. >>>>> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now.? They are >>>>> anodized black.? I far as I can tell, they will fit >>>>> our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. >>>>> Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to >>>>> the importance of good brakes. >>>>> >>>>> DH >>>>> >>>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear >>>>>> they are made >>>>>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I >>>>>> don't want to think >>>>>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a >>>>>> street car, let >>>>>> alone my race car. >>>>>> >>>>>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? >>>>>> >>>>>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm >>>>>> rebuilding OEM >>>>>> calipers. >>>>>> >>>>>> Henry >>>>>> >>>>>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around >>>>>>> $100 each new. >>>>>>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important >>>>>>> part.? I purchased >>>>>>> another set when I thought I might be having a >>>>>>> problem, but ended up >>>>>>> just changing pads.? I'm glad to have a new pair >>>>>>> standing by. Then I >>>>>>> can rebuild at my leisure. >>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> >>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>>> >>>>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>> >>>>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>>>>> >>>>>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>>>>> >>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>> >>>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> >>>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >>>>> >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >>>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >>> >>> >>> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Mar 10 13:27:32 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 14:27:32 -0600 Subject: [Fot] K-Cup References: Anyone know the refund policy for this event?? I'd love to sign up early, but if I happen to have issues in a prior race this year that prevents me from running I'd like the option of getting my entry fee back in full. Regards, Tony On 3/9/2018 9:05 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: > Online portal website > > https://www.showclix.com/event/whatvxbubzqjwn5867841 > / > / > /This on-line portal is for your payment and basic registration > information only - you will still need to complete an application and > send with a copy of your medical form and competition license to Donna > McDonough./ > > > > > > On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 9:15 PM, John Hasty > Yep, got the paper entry, but thought you said you had to use the > web site to reserve & pay????? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 9, 2018, at 8:21 PM, John Styduhar >> ?Try this link >> >> ?http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf >> >> >> >> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 12:48 PM, John Hasty via Fot >> >> I note that when you click on the PVGP registration button >> you are directed to the entry for the 2017 event not the 2018 >> event??interesting >> >> MHC-EmailSig_Attorneys_JohnHasty >> >> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has >> been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain >> information that >> >> is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise >> legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended >> recipient, you are >> >> hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, >> retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or >> any attachments. >> >> If you have received this message in error, please delete >> this message and any attachments from your system without >> reading the >> >> content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent >> transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to >> waive >> >> any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that >> may attach to this communication. >> >> Thank you for your cooperation. >> >> 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We >> help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal >> Bankruptcy Code. >> >> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has >> been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain >> information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or >> otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the >> intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not >> authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this >> message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have >> received this message in error, please delete this message >> and any attachments from your system without reading the >> content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent >> transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to >> waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, >> that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your >> cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief >> agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the >> federal Bankruptcy Code. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been > sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information > that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise > legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended > recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to > read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of > it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in > error, please delete this message and any attachments from your > system without reading the content and notify the sender > immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on > the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the > attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. > Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are > a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief > under the federal Bankruptcy Code. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Sat Mar 10 13:43:29 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 12:43:29 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> <8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com> <8E35FFEE24954CEFBA469BBAC928A878@hpd530> <38fc19de-e0b3-23d2-797b-d741d26629c1@tonydrews.com> Kas, Love to hear your experiences and stories...keep ?em coming! Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 10, 2018, at 8:58 AM, Kas Kastner via Fot wrote: > > There are times when you wish you had just shut up and let the thread pass you by. I have just had one of those times. It was not my intent to cast any aspersions but just to tell how it was back when. It was a different world. If you wanted to make a phone call you needed a nickle but a phone box was on every corner and gasoline was 28 cents a gallon and it was 100 octane. So maybe I should have commented on that instead. > > Certainly if you adhere to the old rules the field would seen be down to three or four cars and they might not make it to the end of a race. I have no complaint about the present manner of preparation or driving either. Have a good time and use what ever is needed to get to the end. > > Never be beaten by equipment. > > >> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 11:18 PM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: >> Bill, I've really tried, but I can't help but respond to being called out in this one. I know you said it doesn't matter to you, lets just race - and that's my feeling too. >> >> Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" debate - seems late in the season for it this time... >> But... For the record, it's a Ford 8" rear end, not a 9". Remember when we used to break axles and roll our cars? I do, very vividly. The memory of the pavement whizzing by my left ear as I was sliding on the drivers door before the car started to barrel roll is indelibly printed in my memory. Before the "southwick" axle conversion (which uses Ford 8" rear axle axles by the way), the fix for this was to put a Ford 8" or a Dana rear axle in the car instead of the stock unit. It was a SAFETY change, not a performance improvement. That's what the prior owner did to my car - put in a Ford 8" so it wouldn't roll. It weighs more than a Triumph axle, and has roughly the same ratios available as a Triumph unit. To switch to a Triumph axle would cost enough I'd need to take at least half a season off of racing, probably a full season. Afterwards, my car would be FASTER because it would weigh LESS. Is the Ford axle legal? Probably not, now that the Southwick conversion is accepted by every vintage organization in the US for safety reasons. Is it worth taking a year off of racing to put the "correct" part there? I say - no, lets race instead. >> >> A strict reading of the axle housing must be stock rule would also prohibit the Southwick conversion and we're back to the cars destroying themselves. That seems counterproductive to me, but I'm not a purist. :) >> >> Billet cranks? Carillo rods? I don't think the '62 GCR allowed those. Certainly not allowed when we ran SCCA in the early 70's. Many of us run those now because the stock stuff breaks and saws your engine in half. However, THOSE DO provide a possible performance advantage over a strict reading of the rules because we can run higher RPM's semi-reliably. Good stock stuff is hard to come by and we do what we have to in order to keep our awesome VINTAGE Triumph's on the track - I figure that's most of our justification for those parts. >> >> Uncle jack's car (Dad) was extremely legal, and when we raced each other our cars were virtually identical in performance. So if I'm cheating to be faster I must be doing a bad job of it. >> To me, parts substitution that keeps our cars running is in a very gray area that some consider "cheating" and others consider "just keeping it running". The trans replacement falls under that category. I'm aware of one vintage organization that's taken a hard line on transmissions - Bill, yours would be illegal there. And as a result guys running GT-6's are pretty much screwed. I don't know why the organization would rather see a competitor replace a tranny every race weekend rather than have them out on the track competing. >> >> I'm just glad that I get to do this as often as I can afford, and get to hang with a bunch of really neat people. >> >> I could write another book on front brakes (the original topic), one on various engine parts, carburetors, transmissions. I already wrote the one on axles (above). >> I'd rather folks not be terribly nit-picky about this stuff and just appreciate the fact that we can muster up enough Triumphs at an event that the organizers WANT us there and will give us a race to ourselves. >> >> Regards, Tony Drews >> >>> On 3/9/2018 8:06 AM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: >>> Bill, if all the cheaters in vintage were black flagged, half the field wouldn't finish! Cheaters is a harsh word; non-compliant sounds better. >>> I know of guys with mid-50's Corvettes, and one T Bird, who run big disc brakes, not the original drums. One of whom runs a vintage organization!!!!!! >>> Also, I like Tony but a 9 inch Ford diff in a TR4? All vintage rules say the diff housing has to be stock. >>> I also like Sam, who's given me a lot of advice over the years, but is his car truely vintage legal? Frankly, I don't care. >>> This will probably get me blackballed, but.... >>> I also don't give a hoot what you run or how legal it is or isn't. Just go out and have fun. >>> I've gotten 1 (one) medal in 11 years of vintage racing; not a very successful effort, you might say. (so would I!). But I've had an 'effen blast! And met a bunch of great people. And did what I set out to do. >>> >>> OK, I wrote this last night and thought I'd sleep on it. After reading the comment about Formula Libra, I guess other people feel as I do. >>> Were all the cars running today raced "back in the day" or were they built to go vintage racing today? >>> Ever see a tech inspector crawl under your car and check to see if the drain plugs were safety wired? Or check brakes or diffs? >>> Full disclosure: I run a Celica 5 speed, legal according to the rules. Hitachi carbs (the Japs took SU's and improved them). >>> I don't like cheaters. I help with the Erie Marathon where 43% or our finishers qualified for the Boston Marathon, the goal of every good runner. The last couple years we ferreted out 3 cheaters. They will never, ever be allowed into the Boston Marathon. That's why I like running, kind of a pure sport where technology doesn't help you much. >>> OK, end of rant. >>> Hang loose. (I'm reading Brian Wilson's book, so I thought a surfing term would be ok!) >>> Bill >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: Bill Dentinger via Fot >>> To: John Styduhar >>> Cc: fot at autox. team. net >>> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2018 9:59 PM >>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >>> >>> Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. >>> >>> Bill Dentinger >>> >>> PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: >>> >>>> The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. >>>> >>>> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: >>>>> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. >>>>> >>>>> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. >>>>> >>>>> Paul >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. >>>>>> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. >>>>>> >>>>>> Cheers >>>>>> Chris >>>>>> >>>>>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot >>>>>> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 >>>>>> An: Scott Janzen >>>>>> Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph >>>>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >>>>>> >>>>>> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. >>>>>> >>>>>> DH >>>>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says >>>>>>> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. >>>>>>> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. >>>>>>> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. >>>>>>> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> DH >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made >>>>>>>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think >>>>>>>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let >>>>>>>> alone my race car. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM >>>>>>>> calipers. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Henry >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. >>>>>>>>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased >>>>>>>>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up >>>>>>>>> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I >>>>>>>>> can rebuild at my leisure. >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>>>> >>>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>>> >>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>>> >>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>> >>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>> >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >>>> >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>> >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sat Mar 10 13:58:00 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 15:58:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Vintage rules, winning race car drivers, and fighter pilots... References: I've tried to stay out of this...but... just a few observations, first an analogy... Fact- the large majority of fighterpilot ?kills? are by a very small percentage of pilots. The same applies to drivers winningraces, there is a small percentage of drivers who win the majority ofthe races. Why? Because they have good equipment, andare better than most other drivers. Note that I say (type) good equipment,not necessarily the best, although they quite frequently do have thebest equipment. A ?good? driver in a front-lineracecar with all the goodies will often get beaten by a real hotshoedriving a lesser car. The point is that having a ?faster?car, with all of the whiz-bang go-fast widgets, doesn't necessarilymean a guaranteed win. The other point is that we need to notlose the concept of ?the spirit of Vintage racing?. No explanation necessary. Re rules, legal/cheater stuff, asidefrom safety-related upgrades that address well-known problems, iff'nit was up to me, which it isn't, it would be simple to go back to thebasics and require Triumph-based components, limit tire choice to adegree, rim width (as Kas already pointed out), and (drum roll)... Ihate to suggest it... just maybe consider actually limiting bore size? Or not. (Note that this is directed at thevintage racers here; the guys & gals running Prod or GT etc, gofor it, stretch that rulebook until the pages start to rip!) Just a few thoughts, Glen Efinger -----Original Message----- From: Kas Kastner via Fot To: Tony Drews ; FOT Sent: Sat, Mar 10, 2018 3:11 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? There are times when you wish you had just shut up and let the thread pass you by. I have just had one of those times. It was not my intent to cast any aspersions but just to tell how it was back when. It was a different world. If you wanted to make a phone call you needed a nickle but a phone box was on every corner and gasoline was 28 cents a gallon and it was 100 octane. So maybe I should have commented on that instead. Certainly if you adhere to the old rules the field would seen be down to three or four cars and they might not make it to the end of a race. I have no complaint about the present manner of preparation or driving either. Have a good time and use what ever is needed to get to the end. Never be beaten by equipment. On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 11:18 PM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: Bill, I've really tried, but I can't help but respond to being called out in this one. I know you said it doesn't matter to you, lets just race - and that's my feeling too. Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" debate - seems late in the season for it this time... But... For the record, it's a Ford 8" rear end, not a 9". Remember when we used to break axles and roll our cars? I do, very vividly. The memory of the pavement whizzing by my left ear as I was sliding on the drivers door before the car started to barrel roll is indelibly printed in my memory. Before the "southwick" axle conversion (which uses Ford 8" rear axle axles by the way), the fix for this was to put a Ford 8" or a Dana rear axle in the car instead of the stock unit. It was a SAFETY change, not a performance improvement. That's what the prior owner did to my car - put in a Ford 8" so it wouldn't roll. It weighs more than a Triumph axle, and has roughly the same ratios available as a Triumph unit. To switch to a Triumph axle would cost enough I'd need to take at least half a season off of racing, probably a full season. Afterwards, my car would be FASTER because it would weigh LESS. Is the Ford axle legal? Probably not, now that the Southwick conversion is accepted by every vintage organization in the US for safety reasons. Is it worth taking a year off of racing to put the "correct" part there? I say - no, lets race instead.... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Sat Mar 10 15:19:00 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 17:19:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] K-Cup References: According to the hardcopy application- "Refunds for cancellations before the event must be requested through Donna McDonough by August 1, 2018. After that date, your refund will be donated to our charities." On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 3:27 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > Anyone know the refund policy for this event? I'd love to sign up early, > but if I happen to have issues in a prior race this year that prevents me > from running I'd like the option of getting my entry fee back in full. > > Regards, Tony > > On 3/9/2018 9:05 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: > > Online portal website > > https://www.showclix.com/event/whatvxbubzqjwn5867841 > > *This on-line portal is for your payment and basic registration > information only - you will still need to complete an application and send > with a copy of your medical form and competition license to Donna > McDonough.* > > > > > > On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 9:15 PM, John Hasty wrote: > >> Yep, got the paper entry, but thought you said you had to use the web >> site to reserve & pay????? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 9, 2018, at 8:21 PM, John Styduhar wrote: >> >> ?Try this link >> >> ?http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP- >> Racer-Application-PDF.pdf >> >> >> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 12:48 PM, John Hasty via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> I note that when you click on the PVGP registration button you are >>> directed to the entry for the 2017 event not the 2018 event??interesting >>> >>> >>> >>> [image: MHC-EmailSig_Attorneys_JohnHasty] >>> >>> >>> >>> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent >>> by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that >>> >>> is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt >>> from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are >>> >>> hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy >>> or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. >>> >>> If you have received this message in error, please delete this message >>> and any attachments from your system without reading the >>> >>> content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent >>> transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive >>> >>> any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach >>> to this communication. >>> >>> >>> >>> Thank you for your cooperation. >>> >>> >>> >>> 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people >>> file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent >>> by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is >>> confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from >>> disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified >>> that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate >>> this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this >>> message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your >>> system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the >>> inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to >>> waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may >>> attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. >>> 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for >>> bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>> options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent >> by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is >> confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from >> disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified >> that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate >> this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this >> message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your >> system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the >> inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to >> waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may >> attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. >> 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for >> bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. >> > > > > _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: not available URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Sat Mar 10 17:52:41 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 19:52:41 -0500 Subject: [Fot] K-Cup References: ?Tony, I received a full refund of my PVGP registration fee in 2016 after notification to Donna that I could not attend (before the event). I received the check after the date of the event. On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 5:19 PM, John Styduhar wrote: > According to the hardcopy application- > > "Refunds for cancellations before the event must be requested through > Donna McDonough by August 1, 2018. After that date, your refund will be > donated to our charities." > > On Sat, Mar 10, 2018 at 3:27 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > >> Anyone know the refund policy for this event? I'd love to sign up early, >> but if I happen to have issues in a prior race this year that prevents me >> from running I'd like the option of getting my entry fee back in full. >> >> Regards, Tony >> >> On 3/9/2018 9:05 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: >> >> Online portal website >> >> https://www.showclix.com/event/whatvxbubzqjwn5867841 >> >> *This on-line portal is for your payment and basic registration >> information only - you will still need to complete an application and send >> with a copy of your medical form and competition license to Donna >> McDonough.* >> >> >> >> >> >> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 9:15 PM, John Hasty wrote: >> >>> Yep, got the paper entry, but thought you said you had to use the web >>> site to reserve & pay????? >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Mar 9, 2018, at 8:21 PM, John Styduhar wrote: >>> >>> ?Try this link >>> >>> ?http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Ra >>> cer-Application-PDF.pdf >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 12:48 PM, John Hasty via Fot >>> wrote: >>> >>>> I note that when you click on the PVGP registration button you are >>>> directed to the entry for the 2017 event not the 2018 event??interesting >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> [image: MHC-EmailSig_Attorneys_JohnHasty] >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent >>>> by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that >>>> >>>> is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt >>>> from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are >>>> >>>> hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, >>>> copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. >>>> >>>> If you have received this message in error, please delete this message >>>> and any attachments from your system without reading the >>>> >>>> content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent >>>> transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive >>>> >>>> any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach >>>> to this communication. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Thank you for your cooperation. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people >>>> file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent >>>> by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is >>>> confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from >>>> disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified >>>> that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate >>>> this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this >>>> message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your >>>> system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the >>>> inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to >>>> waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may >>>> attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. >>>> 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for >>>> bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >>>> options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent >>> by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is >>> confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from >>> disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified >>> that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate >>> this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this >>> message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your >>> system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the >>> inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to >>> waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may >>> attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. >>> 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for >>> bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. >>> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: not available URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Sat Mar 10 18:50:30 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 20:50:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] K-Cup References: Tony, I THINK they have a cancellation/efund policy. Check with the organizers to be sure. If you've never been to PitRace/BeaveRun, it's a great place. Very fun track to drive, has about everything you could want. It was extended to almost 3 miles a few years back. It has clean showers and facilities and a place for lunch. It's only about 8 miles from the PA Turnpike on a nice 2 lane road. It has kind of a Gingerman feel, same guy, Wilson, designed them both. If you could stick around until the next weekend it's the race at Schenely Park in Pittsburgh. very unique. Race in a city park. With lots of Stillers fans. (Local joke). Some folks doing both races leave their cars/haulers at PittRace between races. Hope you can make it. Cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: Tony Drews via Fot To: John Styduhar Cc: FOT Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 3:27 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] K-Cup Anyone know the refund policy for this event? I'd love to sign up early, but if I happen to have issues in a prior race this year that prevents me from running I'd like the option of getting my entry fee back in full. Regards, Tony On 3/9/2018 9:05 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: Online portal website https://www.showclix.com/event/whatvxbubzqjwn5867841 This on-line portal is for your payment and basic registration information only - you will still need to complete an application and send with a copy of your medical form and competition license to Donna McDonough. On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 9:15 PM, John Hasty wrote: Yep, got the paper entry, but thought you said you had to use the web site to reserve & pay????? Sent from my iPhone On Mar 9, 2018, at 8:21 PM, John Styduhar wrote: ?Try this link ?http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 12:48 PM, John Hasty via Fot wrote: I note that when you click on the PVGP registration button you are directed to the entry for the 2017 event not the 2018 event??interesting CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Mar 10 19:06:42 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 20:06:42 -0600 Subject: [Fot] K-Cup References: <00BA5C88DC044F708EC535956D7BC519@hpd530> Bill, thanks for the info.? I'm good on the refund policy - e-mails crossed in the ether. I'll not be doing the Shenely Park race - not quite enough vacation time to do that, plus that course scares the bejebus out of me.? Many people have told me what an awesome time they had at the Shenely Park deal, the crowd / spectators are great, etc. Then they describe the track - walls, curbs, trees, bridges, no safety stuff to speak of.? I'm not sure I have enough self restraint to run that kind of place. I'll certainly be at the Cup race though (unless something very bad happens beforehand). Regards, Tony On 3/10/2018 7:50 PM, Bill Tobin wrote: > Tony, I THINK they have a cancellation/efund policy. Check with the > organizers to be sure. > If you've never been to PitRace/BeaveRun, it's a great place. Very fun > track to drive, has about everything you could want. > It was extended to almost 3 miles a few years back. > It has clean showers and facilities and a place for lunch. It's only > about 8 miles from the PA Turnpike on a nice 2 lane road. > It has kind of a Gingerman feel, same guy, Wilson, designed them both. > If you could stick around until the next weekend it's the race at > Schenely Park in Pittsburgh. very unique. Race in a city park. With > lots of Stillers fans. (Local joke). Some folks doing both races leave > their cars/haulers at PittRace between races. > Hope you can make it. > Cheers, Bill > > ----- Original Message ----- > *Sent:* Saturday, March 10, 2018 3:27 PM > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] K-Cup > > Anyone know the refund policy for this event?? I'd love to sign up > early, but if I happen to have issues in a prior race this year > that prevents me from running I'd like the option of getting my > entry fee back in full. > > Regards, Tony > > > On 3/9/2018 9:05 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: >> Online portal website >> >> https://www.showclix.com/event/whatvxbubzqjwn5867841 >> / >> / >> /This on-line portal is for your payment and basic registration >> information only - you will still need to complete an application >> and send with a copy of your medical form and competition license >> to Donna McDonough./ >> >> >> >> >> >> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 9:15 PM, John Hasty > >> Yep, got the paper entry, but thought you said you had to use >> the web site to reserve & pay????? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 9, 2018, at 8:21 PM, John Styduhar >> >>> ?Try this link >>> >>> ?http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf >>> >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 12:48 PM, John Hasty via Fot >>> >>> I note that when you click on the PVGP registration >>> button you are directed to the entry for the 2017 event >>> not the 2018 event??interesting >>> >>> MHC-EmailSig_Attorneys_JohnHasty >>> >>> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail >>> transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal >>> matter. It may contain information that >>> >>> is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise >>> legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the >>> intended recipient, you are >>> >>> hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, >>> print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any >>> part of it, or any attachments. >>> >>> If you have received this message in error, please >>> delete this message and any attachments from your system >>> without reading the >>> >>> content and notify the sender immediately of the >>> inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part >>> of the sender to waive >>> >>> any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, >>> that may attach to this communication. >>> >>> Thank you for your cooperation. >>> >>> 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. >>> We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the >>> federal Bankruptcy Code. >>> >>> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail >>> transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal >>> matter. It may contain information that is confidential, >>> privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt >>> from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, >>> you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to >>> read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, >>> any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received >>> this message in error, please delete this message and >>> any attachments from your system without reading the >>> content and notify the sender immediately of the >>> inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part >>> of the sender to waive any privilege, including the >>> attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this >>> communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. >>> 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help >>> people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal >>> Bankruptcy Code. >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has >> been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain >> information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or >> otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the >> intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not >> authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this >> message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have >> received this message in error, please delete this message >> and any attachments from your system without reading the >> content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent >> transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to >> waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, >> that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your >> cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief >> agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the >> federal Bankruptcy Code. >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Sat Mar 10 19:12:55 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2018 18:12:55 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <16211177fe5-c87-ac5f@webjas-vaa172.srv.aolmail.net> <0d8f944b-8d26-8df5-a2ee-b0d1780dc81d@tonydrews.com> I run a Dyna 11", or is it Dana 12", or maybe it's a something 10 bolt. Or is it a 12 bolt something or another. Damn, I can't quite remember. It might be a combination of one of these. I have to take a look at my notes. DH Sent from my iPad > On Mar 10, 2018, at 11:20 AM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > > Why I run a beefy rear axle - don't want to do this again: > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PX82xKLZ2JE > Regards, Tony Drews > >> On 3/10/2018 12:06 PM, Bill Dentinger wrote: >> Tony... >> >> AGREED! Well said. Do the FOT a service, and send out a link to the video of your ROAD AMERICA roll over. It would be good for us to revisit that. A picture's worth a thousand words, and that in-race car video provides great background documentation for approving upgrades for Safety. >> >> Bill Dentinger >> >> PS Sorry about describing the FORD diff as 9", when in fact it is only an 8". I have a dimension issue. My wife accuses me of describing stuff bigger than it really is. >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: timmmurphh >> To: 'Tony Drews' ; 'Bill Tobin' ; billdentin ; 'John Styduhar' >> Sent: Sat, Mar 10, 2018 9:56 am >> Subject: RE: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >> >> As always Tony, well said! >> >> Tim > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com Sun Mar 11 03:24:06 2018 From: jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com (James J Dolan) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 09:24:06 +0000 Subject: [Fot] K-Cup References: , <00BA5C88DC044F708EC535956D7BC519@hpd530> PVGP policy provides for a full refund if you cancel before your tires hit the track. Sent from my iPad Tony, I THINK they have a cancellation/efund policy. Check with the organizers to be sure. If you've never been to PitRace/BeaveRun, it's a great place. Very fun track to drive, has about everything you could want. It was extended to almost 3 miles a few years back. It has clean showers and facilities and a place for lunch. It's only about 8 miles from the PA Turnpike on a nice 2 lane road. It has kind of a Gingerman feel, same guy, Wilson, designed them both. If you could stick around until the next weekend it's the race at Schenely Park in Pittsburgh. very unique. Race in a city park. With lots of Stillers fans. (Local joke). Some folks doing both races leave their cars/haulers at PittRace between races. Hope you can make it. Cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 3:27 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] K-Cup Anyone know the refund policy for this event? I'd love to sign up early, but if I happen to have issues in a prior race this year that prevents me from running I'd like the option of getting my entry fee back in full. Regards, Tony On 3/9/2018 9:05 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: Online portal website https://www.showclix.com/event/whatvxbubzqjwn5867841 This on-line portal is for your payment and basic registration information only - you will still need to complete an application and send with a copy of your medical form and competition license to Donna McDonough. Yep, got the paper entry, but thought you said you had to use the web site to reserve & pay????? Sent from my iPhone ?Try this link ?http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf I note that when you click on the PVGP registration button you are directed to the entry for the 2017 event not the 2018 event??interesting CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ________________________________ _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ https://linkprotect.cudasvc.com/url?a=http://www.fot-racing.com&c=E,1,zmDPtIg0M13nO1dgJ5_bJdtg_4dCTZILNEO78NMypriKYyknpXenTVAxlzhkf2vuttfEPsbblkthwoIdlQCKd6c0nR2Fr_ELFJxP1beCGwa2PHDM_bC-3g,,&typo=1 Archive: https://linkprotect.cudasvc.com/url?a=http://www.team.net/archive&c=E,1,lkIy2Mck3QIefoBdAq8kaZuRPW6_dBpP1ioGJ67ZxYSq1cMji5iTu661pWmC6LpAEw6l0ZeS82SOL9Kegt82tIOLNOWcZyy_eDWwWECMSNqcovrO&typo=1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8125 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com Sun Mar 11 07:26:39 2018 From: jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com (James J Dolan) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 13:26:39 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 2018 Kastner Cup FoT Members, Our plans for the 2018 Kastner Cup are on schedule and coming along well. Here is an update and it is time to REGISTER Kastner Cup Race This year?s event will be held in conjunction with the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. The dates are July 6th ? 7th ? 8h 2018. The Kastner Cup race will be held Saturday afternoon around 4:00 pm. It is scheduled to be a 40-minute race, so plan your tires accordingly. Track Our host track will be Pittsburgh International Raceway, a 2.9 mile track located about 35 miles north of Pittsburgh. For track details and information, visit: www.pittrace.com Pitt Race is an excellent facility, with large run off areas, a 100 foot elevation change, two long straights, paved paddocks, clean bathrooms and shower facilities. I think you will find it a great facility for our event. To get a feel for the track visit: https://www.flickr.com/photos/pittsburghvintagegrandprix/sets/72157685891790982/ and there is a on track video of a ?64 Spitfire at the PVGP Kastner Cup registration page below. Registration Registration is being done through the PVGP website. For registration details, information, and to register for the Kastner Cup, please visit: http://www.pvgp.org/drivers/kastner-cup/ . The actual application is at http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf . Note that the web site registration is payment only, you will need to mail in the completed application with your Medicals. The actual application is at http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf. Please note we have a $35 fee to register for the Kastner Cup race and this will help defer some of the event expenses. Take the time to register now so we can get a handle on the number of cars. There is a lot of information on the PVGP.org web site Hotel Host hotel is Comfort Inn ? Cranberry Township 924 Sheraton Drive, Mars, PA, 16046 Phone: (724) 772-2700. We secured a room rate of $89/night. Tell them you are with the Kastner Cup to get the proper rate. Poster The 2018 Kastner Cup poster is complete and looks great. [cid:image001.png at 01D3B91B.0E6BAEB0] Tee Shirts The Western PA Triumph Association is helping with tee shirts and support for the Kastner Cup weekend. We plan to have special parking and show space for WPTA and Triumphs at Pitt Race (details to follow) for Saturday?s race. PVGP other events that may be of interest to you The PVGP runs two back to back race weekends. The second weekend is the following weekend July 14 & 15 and is a street race in Pittsburgh?s Schenley Park. This race runs on 2.33 miles of Pittsburgh city streets in Schenley Park and is the longest running vintage street race in America. For photos of the event visit: https://www.flickr.com/photos/pittsburghvintagegrandprix/sets/72157687618417183/ and https://www.flickr.com/photos/pittsburghvintagegrandprix/sets/72157686717704321/. We have arranged for any Triumph driver entering both weekends to receive a free entry into the Axis vs. Allies race at Schenley on Saturday, July 14 (a $75 value). This special race on Saturday pits the British cars against the German and Italian cars. For more information on registering for the Schenley Park weekend visit: http://www.pvgp.org/drivers/ . Be sure to add yourself to the Axis vs. Allies race. We can arrange for storage of race car trailers for drivers running both weekends. This is shaping up to be an excellent event and I look forward to seeing you in July. 2018 Kastner Cup Committee -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 61311 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Sun Mar 11 07:58:10 2018 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 09:58:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> <8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com> <8E35FFEE24954CEFBA469BBAC928A878@hpd530> <38fc19de-e0b3-23d2-797b-d741d26629c1@tonydrews.com> As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of the readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two cents... Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these new tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost wheels running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray area between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will always be the heart of the debate. As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the States, this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any level, there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut it any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the car is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the conundrum... For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's original Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. Henry On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" > debate - seems late in the season for it this time... > From fasttrs at yahoo.com Sun Mar 11 08:39:00 2018 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 09:39:00 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> <8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com> <8E35FFEE24954CEFBA469BBAC928A878@hpd530> <38fc19de-e0b3-23d2-797b-d741d26629c1@tonydrews.com> I have held my tongue for many years on this subject, and what I have to say may get me banned completely from the FOT, but after loosing my son Sam, my Grandmother and my House getting hit by a small tornado in the last few months I?m starting to loose my filter. I will try to be as diplomatic as I can but here goes. I have run many of the K-cup races over the years and could give you a whole list of cars that wouldn?t pass any kind of scrutiny from either the Vintage or SCCA organizations (and I quit looking years ago.) I finally decided Racers are gonna do what Racers do. (My car passed Scca?s heavy scrutiny at the Runoffs this past year). I choose to come to the races as an ?outsider? because I do enjoy the camaraderie of all of our group who choose to beat our heads against the wall and push these Triumphs way beyond their intended purposes. Mike Munson #28 EP TR6 > On Mar 10, 2018, at 10:58 AM, Kas Kastner via Fot wrote: > > There are times when you wish you had just shut up and let the thread pass you by. I have just had one of those times. It was not my intent to cast any aspersions but just to tell how it was back when. It was a different world. If you wanted to make a phone call you needed a nickle but a phone box was on every corner and gasoline was 28 cents a gallon and it was 100 octane. So maybe I should have commented on that instead. > > Certainly if you adhere to the old rules the field would seen be down to three or four cars and they might not make it to the end of a race. I have no complaint about the present manner of preparation or driving either. Have a good time and use what ever is needed to get to the end. > > Never be beaten by equipment. > > >> On Fri, Mar 9, 2018 at 11:18 PM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: >> Bill, I've really tried, but I can't help but respond to being called out in this one. I know you said it doesn't matter to you, lets just race - and that's my feeling too. >> >> Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" debate - seems late in the season for it this time... >> But... For the record, it's a Ford 8" rear end, not a 9". Remember when we used to break axles and roll our cars? I do, very vividly. The memory of the pavement whizzing by my left ear as I was sliding on the drivers door before the car started to barrel roll is indelibly printed in my memory. Before the "southwick" axle conversion (which uses Ford 8" rear axle axles by the way), the fix for this was to put a Ford 8" or a Dana rear axle in the car instead of the stock unit. It was a SAFETY change, not a performance improvement. That's what the prior owner did to my car - put in a Ford 8" so it wouldn't roll. It weighs more than a Triumph axle, and has roughly the same ratios available as a Triumph unit. To switch to a Triumph axle would cost enough I'd need to take at least half a season off of racing, probably a full season. Afterwards, my car would be FASTER because it would weigh LESS. Is the Ford axle legal? Probably not, now that the Southwick conversion is accepted by every vintage organization in the US for safety reasons. Is it worth taking a year off of racing to put the "correct" part there? I say - no, lets race instead. >> >> A strict reading of the axle housing must be stock rule would also prohibit the Southwick conversion and we're back to the cars destroying themselves. That seems counterproductive to me, but I'm not a purist. :) >> >> Billet cranks? Carillo rods? I don't think the '62 GCR allowed those. Certainly not allowed when we ran SCCA in the early 70's. Many of us run those now because the stock stuff breaks and saws your engine in half. However, THOSE DO provide a possible performance advantage over a strict reading of the rules because we can run higher RPM's semi-reliably. Good stock stuff is hard to come by and we do what we have to in order to keep our awesome VINTAGE Triumph's on the track - I figure that's most of our justification for those parts. >> >> Uncle jack's car (Dad) was extremely legal, and when we raced each other our cars were virtually identical in performance. So if I'm cheating to be faster I must be doing a bad job of it. >> To me, parts substitution that keeps our cars running is in a very gray area that some consider "cheating" and others consider "just keeping it running". The trans replacement falls under that category. I'm aware of one vintage organization that's taken a hard line on transmissions - Bill, yours would be illegal there. And as a result guys running GT-6's are pretty much screwed. I don't know why the organization would rather see a competitor replace a tranny every race weekend rather than have them out on the track competing. >> >> I'm just glad that I get to do this as often as I can afford, and get to hang with a bunch of really neat people. >> >> I could write another book on front brakes (the original topic), one on various engine parts, carburetors, transmissions. I already wrote the one on axles (above). >> I'd rather folks not be terribly nit-picky about this stuff and just appreciate the fact that we can muster up enough Triumphs at an event that the organizers WANT us there and will give us a race to ourselves. >> >> Regards, Tony Drews >> >>> On 3/9/2018 8:06 AM, Bill Tobin via Fot wrote: >>> Bill, if all the cheaters in vintage were black flagged, half the field wouldn't finish! Cheaters is a harsh word; non-compliant sounds better. >>> I know of guys with mid-50's Corvettes, and one T Bird, who run big disc brakes, not the original drums. One of whom runs a vintage organization!!!!!! >>> Also, I like Tony but a 9 inch Ford diff in a TR4? All vintage rules say the diff housing has to be stock. >>> I also like Sam, who's given me a lot of advice over the years, but is his car truely vintage legal? Frankly, I don't care. >>> This will probably get me blackballed, but.... >>> I also don't give a hoot what you run or how legal it is or isn't. Just go out and have fun. >>> I've gotten 1 (one) medal in 11 years of vintage racing; not a very successful effort, you might say. (so would I!). But I've had an 'effen blast! And met a bunch of great people. And did what I set out to do. >>> >>> OK, I wrote this last night and thought I'd sleep on it. After reading the comment about Formula Libra, I guess other people feel as I do. >>> Were all the cars running today raced "back in the day" or were they built to go vintage racing today? >>> Ever see a tech inspector crawl under your car and check to see if the drain plugs were safety wired? Or check brakes or diffs? >>> Full disclosure: I run a Celica 5 speed, legal according to the rules. Hitachi carbs (the Japs took SU's and improved them). >>> I don't like cheaters. I help with the Erie Marathon where 43% or our finishers qualified for the Boston Marathon, the goal of every good runner. The last couple years we ferreted out 3 cheaters. They will never, ever be allowed into the Boston Marathon. That's why I like running, kind of a pure sport where technology doesn't help you much. >>> OK, end of rant. >>> Hang loose. (I'm reading Brian Wilson's book, so I thought a surfing term would be ok!) >>> Bill >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: Bill Dentinger via Fot >>> To: John Styduhar >>> Cc: fot at autox. team. net >>> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2018 9:59 PM >>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >>> >>> Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race. >>> >>> Bill Dentinger >>> >>> PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth. >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: >>> >>>> The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding. >>>> >>>>> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: >>>>> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good. >>>>> >>>>> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events. >>>>> >>>>> Paul >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with. >>>>>> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me. >>>>>> >>>>>> Cheers >>>>>> Chris >>>>>> >>>>>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot >>>>>> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28 >>>>>> An: Scott Janzen >>>>>> Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph >>>>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >>>>>> >>>>>> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers. >>>>>> >>>>>> DH >>>>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says >>>>>>> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed. >>>>>>> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality. >>>>>>> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles. >>>>>>> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> DH >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made >>>>>>>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think >>>>>>>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let >>>>>>>> alone my race car. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback??? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM >>>>>>>> calipers. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Henry >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. >>>>>>>>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased >>>>>>>>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up >>>>>>>>> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I >>>>>>>>> can rebuild at my leisure. >>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>>>> >>>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>>> >>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>>> >>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>> >>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>> >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >>>> >>>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Sun Mar 11 08:53:35 2018 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 10:53:35 -0400 Subject: [Fot] legality I have only met Tony once (at the Kastner Cup at Summit Point in 2015), and I know that he is a good (and fast ) racer, and I can only say that I totally agree with him in his assessment on vintage racing/legality. But maybe that's because I am not very fast, and that I got in it for the sport (and to compete), and to meet people whom enjoy both racing and these amazing cars (I have met several the past six years). I do, however, see both sides of the argument, and just as in about everything else in life, there will always be differing opinions.-- Jay De Pol #84 GT6 For some reason, FOT would not post my comment. Just my 3 cents worth..... Also, it is my understanding that if your VRG license has a medical expiration date on it, and it is current, one does not need to mail in a medical for the Kastner Cup. Is this assumption correct? Thanks! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tlizzard at msn.com Sun Mar 11 08:55:36 2018 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 14:55:36 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com> <496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com> <1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com> <39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com> <1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com> <00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com> <141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net> <8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com> <8E35FFEE24954CEFBA469BBAC928A878@hpd530> <38fc19de-e0b3-23d2-797b-d741d26629c1@tonydrews.com>, <8ce7b606b89b3079065de49fe13cb85c@tr4racer.com> Well said Henry, look forward to seeing you and Old Blue sometime this year. Terry Stetler Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of yellow04 via Fot Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2018 9:58:10 AM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of the readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two cents... Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these new tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost wheels running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray area between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will always be the heart of the debate. As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the States, this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any level, there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut it any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the car is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the conundrum... For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's original Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. Henry On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" > debate - seems late in the season for it this time... > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fot-racing.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2b4bcbd3f3cd44ca346208d5875ed0aa%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636563763665345608&sdata=LP94mIrvOY%2FKCuebJ5WhAO7Eu7oah8lGjzn9o2RIzPw%3D&reserved=0 Archive: https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2b4bcbd3f3cd44ca346208d5875ed0aa%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636563763665345608&sdata=ZiHRGgmbUXI4Ppbn4eEqWrH4yqlIvw9jwL2Hp%2Flsdwo%3D&reserved=0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Mar 11 09:24:27 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 11:24:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Henry... OMG! Does this mean the carpet coming out too? Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: yellow04 via Fot To: fot Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 8:00 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of the readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two cents... Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these new tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost wheels running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray area between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will always be the heart of the debate. As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the States, this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any level, there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut it any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the car is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the conundrum... For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's original Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. Henry On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" > debate - seems late in the season for it this time... > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sun Mar 11 09:51:31 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 11:51:31 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Henry you not only get it, but also touch on one of the main issues. Yes tire technology has allowed these cars to go a lot faster than was ever intended. They get faster and more stuff breaks; fix one thing and then the next weak-link fails. At what point does it end? Rack & pinion steering, tubular adjustable front suspension, light brake calipers, non-triumph gearboxes, wide rims, big-bore engines, the latest greatest big-$$ rubber, etc, etc, etc; some folks are willing and can afford to take it to the limit, some aren't/cant afford it, especially with trying to stay within some set of rules. That's why tires are really the biggest equalizer, as difficult as it may be to control nowadays; we really need to level the field. The other point is that we have to remember that we're VINTAGE racing these cars, not doing ongoing development programs for GT cars... FWIW Safety FasTR! Glen -----Original Message----- From: yellow04 via Fot To: fot Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 11:02 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of the readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two cents... Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these new tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost wheels running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray area between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will always be the heart of the debate. As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the States, this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any level, there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut it any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the car is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the conundrum... For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's original Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. Henry On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" > debate - seems late in the season for it this time... > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Mar 11 13:57:01 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 14:57:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <16215c2818f-c8c-65ec@webjas-vaa044.srv.aolmail.net> Some of the most fun I've had driving was on skinny Dunlops. Major drift, big slip angles, what a hoot.? If we could get everyone to run that kind of thing it would be neat.? I don't think that's possible in the context of running within mixed marque groups though. I do think that tire technology is why we need Southwick rear axles to begin with. Tony On 3/11/2018 10:51 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: > Henry you not only get it, but also touch on one of the main issues. > Yes tire technology has allowed these cars to go a lot faster than was > ever intended. > They get faster and more stuff breaks; fix one thing and then the next > weak-link fails. > At what point does it end? > Rack & pinion steering, tubular adjustable front suspension, light > brake calipers, non-triumph gearboxes, wide rims, big-bore engines, > the latest greatest big-$$ rubber, etc, etc, etc; some folks are > willing and can afford to take it to the limit, some aren't/cant > afford it, especially with trying to stay within some set of rules. > That's why tires are really the biggest equalizer, as difficult as it > may be to control nowadays; we really need to level the field. > The other point is that we have to remember that we're VINTAGE racing > these cars, not doing ongoing development programs for GT cars... > FWIW > Safety FasTR! > Glen > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: yellow04 via Fot > To: fot > Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 11:02 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? > > As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of the > readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't > construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two cents... > > Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back > from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these new > tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your > chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be > really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost wheels > running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray area > between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will always > be the heart of the debate. > > As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that > has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the States, > this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became > crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any level, > there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut it > any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the car > is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the conundrum... > For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg > steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's original > Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. > > Henry > > On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > > > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" > > debate - seems late in the season for it this time... > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tedtsimx at bright.net Sun Mar 11 15:28:12 2018 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 17:28:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Right you are!!! Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Droid On Mar 11, 2018 11:51 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: > > Henry you not only get it, but also touch on one of the main issues. > Yes tire technology has allowed these cars to go a lot faster than was ever intended. > They get faster and more stuff breaks; fix one thing and then the next weak-link fails. > At what point does it end? > Rack & pinion steering, tubular adjustable front suspension, light brake calipers, non-triumph gearboxes, wide rims, big-bore engines, the latest greatest big-$$ rubber, etc, etc, etc; some folks are willing and can afford to take it to the limit, some aren't/cant afford it, especially with trying to stay within some set of rules. > That's why tires are really the biggest equalizer, as difficult as it may be to control nowadays; we really need to level the field. > The other point is that we have to remember that we're VINTAGE racing these cars, not doing ongoing development programs for GT cars... > FWIW > Safety FasTR! > Glen > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: yellow04 via Fot > To: fot > Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 11:02 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? > > As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of the > readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't > construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two cents... > > Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back > from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these new > tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your > chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be > really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost wheels > running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray area > between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will always > be the heart of the debate. > > As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that > has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the States, > this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became > crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any level, > there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut it > any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the car > is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the conundrum... > For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg > steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's original > Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. > > Henry > > On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > > > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" > > debate - seems late in the season for it this time... > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Sun Mar 11 15:52:11 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 16:52:11 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? If you watch enough Goodwood Revival race videos, you realize they are running on the skinniest tires and probably hardest compound and they put on quite a show. But the race organizer demands period correct! Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 On Sun 11/03/18 12:57 PM , Tony Drews via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: > Some of the most fun I've had driving was on skinny Dunlops.? Major > drift, big slip angles, what a hoot.? If we could get everyone to run > that kind of thing it would be neat.? I don't think that's possible > in the context of running within mixed marque groups though. > > I do think that tire technology is why we need Southwick rear axles > to begin with. > Tony > On 3/11/2018 10:51 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: > Henry you not only get it, but also touch on one of the main issues. > Yes tire technology has allowed these cars to go a lot faster than > was ever intended. > They get faster and more stuff breaks; fix one thing and then the > next weak-link fails. > At what point does it end? > Rack & pinion steering, tubular adjustable front suspension, light > brake calipers, non-triumph gearboxes, wide rims, big-bore engines, > the latest greatest big-$$ rubber, etc, etc, etc; some folks are > willing and can afford to take it to the limit, some aren't/cant > afford it, especially with trying to stay within some set of rules. > That's why tires are really the biggest equalizer, as difficult as it > may be to control nowadays; we really need to level the field. > The other point is that we have to remember that we're VINTAGE racing > these cars, not doing ongoing development programs for GT cars... > FWIW > Safety FasTR! > Glen > -----Original Message----- > From: yellow04 via Fot > To: fot > Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 11:02 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? > As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of > the > readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't > construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two > cents... > Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back > > from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these > new > tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your > chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be > really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost > wheels > running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray > area > between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will > always > be the heart of the debate. > As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that > > has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the > States, > this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became > crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any > level, > there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut > it > any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the > car > is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the > conundrum... > For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg > steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's > original > Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. > Henry > On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is > vintage" > > debate - seems late in the season for it this time... > > > _______________________________________________ > http://www.fot-racing.com [2] > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [4] > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [5] > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com [6] > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > Links: > ------ > [2] http://www.fot-racing.com > [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html > [4] http://www.team.net/archive > [5] http://www.team.net/forums > [6] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > From tlizzard at msn.com Sun Mar 11 15:52:56 2018 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 21:52:56 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <16215c2818f-c8c-65ec@webjas-vaa044.srv.aolmail.net>, I totally agree with Glen and Tony here. The skinny, hard Dunlops would be great if it were the spec tire for all production classes. Sadly, the technological genie is out of the bottle, and once that happens, putting him (or her) back in that bottle is essentially impossible. Terry Stetler. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Tony Drews via Fot Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2018 3:57:01 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Some of the most fun I've had driving was on skinny Dunlops. Major drift, big slip angles, what a hoot. If we could get everyone to run that kind of thing it would be neat. I don't think that's possible in the context of running within mixed marque groups though. I do think that tire technology is why we need Southwick rear axles to begin with. Tony On 3/11/2018 10:51 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Henry you not only get it, but also touch on one of the main issues. Yes tire technology has allowed these cars to go a lot faster than was ever intended. They get faster and more stuff breaks; fix one thing and then the next weak-link fails. At what point does it end? Rack & pinion steering, tubular adjustable front suspension, light brake calipers, non-triumph gearboxes, wide rims, big-bore engines, the latest greatest big-$$ rubber, etc, etc, etc; some folks are willing and can afford to take it to the limit, some aren't/cant afford it, especially with trying to stay within some set of rules. That's why tires are really the biggest equalizer, as difficult as it may be to control nowadays; we really need to level the field. The other point is that we have to remember that we're VINTAGE racing these cars, not doing ongoing development programs for GT cars... FWIW Safety FasTR! Glen -----Original Message----- Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 11:02 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of the readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two cents... Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these new tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost wheels running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray area between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will always be the heart of the debate. As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the States, this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any level, there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut it any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the car is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the conundrum... For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's original Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. Henry On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" > debate - seems late in the season for it this time... > _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Sun Mar 11 16:17:48 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 12:17:48 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <16215c2818f-c8c-65ec@webjas-vaa044.srv.aolmail.net> What you can?t do well, at least I can?t, is go back and forth between tire types. As you know, Tony, Peyote is an odd car to drive. You drove it well, which meant you let it rip. It doesn?t respond to anything else. It?s a blast on hard Dunlops, but the tail out, front tires skittering style means driving anywhere close to the edge on Dunlops results in fairly frequent moments when the scenery is going the wrong way. Spend a few events on Speedsters that give a warning that things are going away, and let you catch it most times when it does, and when you switch back those backwards occasions come a lot more frequently. I spun four times in one lap at Laguna Seca and enjoyed a long talk at the black flag station explaining that I hadn?t forgotten how to drive, just needed a refresher on doing it with roller skate wheels. Certainly I could just stick with them, or buy some that aren?t ten years old with blued rubber at the edges, but it?s not that much fun to watch people you normally lap run away from you in a corner because the organizers permit rubber that works. I think the really unpleasant result of permitting better tires and the ?safety? modifications they demand is that people who own the great race cars don?t race them. Who wants their Testarossa to get it?s pontoons blown off by a ratmobile like Peyote. There?s no way they?re going to make the modifications that would make them competitive. Every tech inspector worth their salt knows what those cars were built with. and futzing around with them threatens their megabuck value. So yup, that?s a shame, those cars were what drew me to vintage racing to begin with, but they?re gone and they ain?t coming back. Bill > On Mar 11, 2018, at 9:57 AM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > > Some of the most fun I've had driving was on skinny Dunlops. Major drift, big slip angles, what a hoot. If we could get everyone to run that kind of thing it would be neat. I don't think that's possible in the context of running within mixed marque groups though. > > I do think that tire technology is why we need Southwick rear axles to begin with. > Tony > > On 3/11/2018 10:51 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: >> Henry you not only get it, but also touch on one of the main issues. >> Yes tire technology has allowed these cars to go a lot faster than was ever intended. >> They get faster and more stuff breaks; fix one thing and then the next weak-link fails. >> At what point does it end? >> Rack & pinion steering, tubular adjustable front suspension, light brake calipers, non-triumph gearboxes, wide rims, big-bore engines, the latest greatest big-$$ rubber, etc, etc, etc; some folks are willing and can afford to take it to the limit, some aren't/cant afford it, especially with trying to stay within some set of rules. >> That's why tires are really the biggest equalizer, as difficult as it may be to control nowadays; we really need to level the field. >> The other point is that we have to remember that we're VINTAGE racing these cars, not doing ongoing development programs for GT cars... >> FWIW >> Safety FasTR! >> Glen >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 11:02 am >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >> >> As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of the >> readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't >> construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two cents... >> >> Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back >> from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these new >> tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your >> chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be >> really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost wheels >> running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray area >> between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will always >> be the heart of the debate. >> >> As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that >> has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the States, >> this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became >> crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any level, >> there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut it >> any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the car >> is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the conundrum... >> For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg >> steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's original >> Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. >> >> Henry >> >> On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: >> >> > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" >> > debate - seems late in the season for it this time... >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Mar 11 18:55:42 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 20:55:42 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <52851.1520805131@mitchelplumbing.com> Amici... How many of you guys remember Charlie Gibson? He was one hell of a racer, and also a partner in SASCO MOTORSPORTS (Racing Tires). He was killed in a regrettable work place accident when he was returning one of the big SASCO semi-trailer rigs from an event, to their shop at VIR. He was all alone, and there was a 'brake issue. When he disconnected the trailer, it rolled back over on him and killed him. SAD, Sad, sad! But I bring him up because back in the 1980s he was an avid vintage racer, and always brought a race car with him, which he raced at events he sold tires at. Anyway, racing tires was his business. Super nice guy. Like all of us, he had opinions, and he shared them. He said vintage race cars ought to be racing on tall, skinny tires. He did not seem to be hung up on compounds. His hang up was profile. He said our cars should not run tires less than 70 profile. The VSCDA agreed with that, and for our group...your tires had to be no less than 70 profile. I can't remember if there was a list of approved tires, but I do know Dunlop "Gumballs" were a no-no. They were made for a while, were almost as sticky as they were expensive. Early on...I had heard about them...but could not afford them. Pity. Dunlop tires look SUPER on a TR. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Charly via Fot To: fot Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 4:40 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? If you watch enough Goodwood Revival race videos, you realize they are running on the skinniest tires and probably hardest compound and they put on quite a show. But the race organizer demands period correct!Charly MitchelTR6 #44On Sun 11/03/18 12:57 PM , Tony Drews via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent:> Some of the most fun I've had driving was on skinny Dunlops. Major> drift, big slip angles, what a hoot. If we could get everyone to run> that kind of thing it would be neat. I don't think that's possible> in the context of running within mixed marque groups though. > > I do think that tire technology is why we need Southwick rear axles> to begin with.> Tony> On 3/11/2018 10:51 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote:> Henry you not only get it, but also touch on one of the main issues.> Yes tire technology has allowed these cars to go a lot faster than> was ever intended.> They get faster and more stuff breaks; fix one thing and then the> next weak-link fails.> At what point does it end?> Rack & pinion steering, tubular adjustable front suspension, light> brake calipers, non-triumph gearboxes, wide rims, big-bore engines,> the latest greatest big-$$ rubber, etc, etc, etc; some folks are> willing and can afford to take it to the limit, some aren't/cant> afford it, especially with trying to stay within some set of rules.> That's why tires are really the biggest equalizer, as difficult as it> may be to control nowadays; we really need to level the field.> The other point is that we have to remember that we're VINTAGE racing> these cars, not doing ongoing development programs for GT cars...> FWIW> Safety FasTR!> Glen> -----Original Message-----> From: yellow04 via Fot > To: fot > Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 11:02 am> Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?> As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of> the > readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't > construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two> cents...> Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back> > from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these> new > tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your > chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be > really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost> wheels > running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray> area > between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will> always > be the heart of the debate.> As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that> > has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the> States, > this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became > crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any> level, > there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut> it > any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the> car > is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the> conundrum... > For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg > steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's> original > Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun.> Henry> On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote:> > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is> vintage"> > debate - seems late in the season for it this time...> > > _______________________________________________> http://www.fot-racing.com [2]> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [3]> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [4]> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [5]> Unsubscribe/Manage:> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com [6]> _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net> http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums:> http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage:> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > Links:> ------> [2] http://www.fot-racing.com> [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html> [4] http://www.team.net/archive> [5] http://www.team.net/forums> [6] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com> > _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Mar 11 19:09:24 2018 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 19:09:24 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <16215c2818f-c8c-65ec@webjas-vaa044.srv.aolmail.net> On 3/11/2018 3:52 PM, Terry Stetler via Fot wrote: > > I totally agree with Glen and Tony here. The skinny, hard Dunlops > would be great if it were the spec tire for all production classes. > > Sadly, the technological genie is out of the bottle, and once that > happens, putting him (or her) back in that bottle is essentially > impossible. > The mindset of vintage racers is a bit different than SCCA or IMSA, but, I have the feeling that the hard chargers will still push those old skinny skins beyond their limits, and spins would prevail, which are certain to cause more bent sheet metal than currently is the case, and vintage racing intends, in large part, to keep both drivers and cars in one piece and looking pretty much as they did before racing commenced.? But, this is not a new subject, and as for originality and the "old days," I do remember walking into a Triumph shop in New England in 1970 that ran an SCCA TR4A IRS, and it was wearing big, fat cheater slicks.... The larger question of when a safety improvement is a performance improvement in disguise is not one that's going to be resolved simply or easily.? Generally, bits that don't break unexpectedly are a safety enhancement, as Tony makes clear.? We don't think about safety in the same way as in 1962, because we know a lot more about it, especially from the experience of others.? No one gets too excited about helmet restraints, because we know a lot more today about TBI and its causes than we did then, for example.? We could get quite priggish about originality, but, would anyone today say that the stock fuel tanks were just fine and fuel cells are an unnecessary expense, knowing what we know about fires, or that four-point roll cages aren't original, and therefore shouldn't be allowed (even though there's clearly a performance advantage to them in stiffening the chassis, if done cleverly)? But, one thing that everyone so far is unwilling to admit is that we are inveterate tinkerers, and saying, "well, this little piece of shit part that fails every Friday like it had a timer built into it was good enough for the factory in 1962, so it's good enough for me" just isn't in the vocabulary of most of us.? Kas must have file cabinets full of dynamometer test results as proof of that.? In that regard, the rules always have some rubber built into them, whether it's apparent to all or not.? No one goes into this hobby with the belief that a DNF every weekend is great fun. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Mar 11 19:30:42 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 18:30:42 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Tires References: <16215c2818f-c8c-65ec@webjas-vaa044.srv.aolmail.net> Amici... Bob Wismer and I ran Hoosier tires at the end, but for over twenty years we ran Dunlop tires, influenced mostly by two factors. One was they wore like concrete (ten events common). Two they looked like they belonged on the cars (presentation). TSK, Tsk, tsk. Priorities? Bill Dentinger Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 11, 2018, at 12:57 PM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > > Some of the most fun I've had driving was on skinny Dunlops. Major drift, big slip angles, what a hoot. If we could get everyone to run that kind of thing it would be neat. I don't think that's possible in the context of running within mixed marque groups though. > > I do think that tire technology is why we need Southwick rear axles to begin with. > Tony > >> On 3/11/2018 10:51 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: >> Henry you not only get it, but also touch on one of the main issues. >> Yes tire technology has allowed these cars to go a lot faster than was ever intended. >> They get faster and more stuff breaks; fix one thing and then the next weak-link fails. >> At what point does it end? >> Rack & pinion steering, tubular adjustable front suspension, light brake calipers, non-triumph gearboxes, wide rims, big-bore engines, the latest greatest big-$$ rubber, etc, etc, etc; some folks are willing and can afford to take it to the limit, some aren't/cant afford it, especially with trying to stay within some set of rules. >> That's why tires are really the biggest equalizer, as difficult as it may be to control nowadays; we really need to level the field. >> The other point is that we have to remember that we're VINTAGE racing these cars, not doing ongoing development programs for GT cars... >> FWIW >> Safety FasTR! >> Glen >> >> >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: yellow04 via Fot >> To: fot >> Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 11:02 am >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >> >> As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of the >> readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't >> construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two cents... >> >> Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back >> from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these new >> tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your >> chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be >> really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost wheels >> running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray area >> between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will always >> be the heart of the debate. >> >> As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that >> has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the States, >> this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became >> crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any level, >> there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut it >> any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the car >> is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the conundrum... >> For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg >> steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's original >> Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. >> >> Henry >> >> On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: >> >> > Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is vintage" >> > debate - seems late in the season for it this time... >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Sun Mar 11 21:27:37 2018 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 20:27:37 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Now Tires and Cheaters References: <16215c2818f-c8c-65ec@webjas-vaa044.srv.aolmail.net> <13c4bbe4-e8c4-cf92-2a86-a66edfcd664a@dfn.com> My TR3 had wide slicks in the SCCA days, now I run 5.5 wide rims with the best rubber Legal in my vintage club. The car handles great and is very controllable. Also, the tires are less money than the treaded Hoosiers. ~Steve > On Mar 11, 2018, at 6:09 PM, Michael Porter via Fot wrote: > >> On 3/11/2018 3:52 PM, Terry Stetler via Fot wrote: >> I totally agree with Glen and Tony here. The skinny, hard Dunlops would be great if it were the spec tire for all production classes. >> >> Sadly, the technological genie is out of the bottle, and once that happens, putting him (or her) back in that bottle is essentially impossible. >> > > The mindset of vintage racers is a bit different than SCCA or IMSA, but, I have the feeling that the hard chargers will still push those old skinny skins beyond their limits, and spins would prevail, which are certain to cause more bent sheet metal than currently is the case, and vintage racing intends, in large part, to keep both drivers and cars in one piece and looking pretty much as they did before racing commenced. But, this is not a new subject, and as for originality and the "old days," I do remember walking into a Triumph shop in New England in 1970 that ran an SCCA TR4A IRS, and it was wearing big, fat cheater slicks.... > > The larger question of when a safety improvement is a performance improvement in disguise is not one that's going to be resolved simply or easily. Generally, bits that don't break unexpectedly are a safety enhancement, as Tony makes clear. We don't think about safety in the same way as in 1962, because we know a lot more about it, especially from the experience of others. No one gets too excited about helmet restraints, because we know a lot more today about TBI and its causes than we did then, for example. We could get quite priggish about originality, but, would anyone today say that the stock fuel tanks were just fine and fuel cells are an unnecessary expense, knowing what we know about fires, or that four-point roll cages aren't original, and therefore shouldn't be allowed (even though there's clearly a performance advantage to them in stiffening the chassis, if done cleverly)? > > But, one thing that everyone so far is unwilling to admit is that we are inveterate tinkerers, and saying, "well, this little piece of shit part that fails every Friday like it had a timer built into it was good enough for the factory in 1962, so it's good enough for me" just isn't in the vocabulary of most of us. Kas must have file cabinets full of dynamometer test results as proof of that. In that regard, the rules always have some rubber built into them, whether it's apparent to all or not. No one goes into this hobby with the belief that a DNF every weekend is great fun. > > > Cheers. > > -- > > > Michael Porter > Roswell, NM > > > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Sun Mar 11 23:45:04 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2018 19:45:04 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <52851.1520805131@mitchelplumbing.com> If you watch enough Goodwood videos you see carnage that would get one banned for life at US tracks. > On Mar 11, 2018, at 11:52 AM, Charly via Fot wrote: > > If you watch enough Goodwood Revival race videos, you realize they are running on the skinniest tires and probably hardest compound and they put on quite a show. But the race > organizer demands period correct! > Charly Mitchel > TR6 #44 > > On Sun 11/03/18 12:57 PM , Tony Drews via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: >> Some of the most fun I've had driving was on skinny Dunlops. Major >> drift, big slip angles, what a hoot. If we could get everyone to run >> that kind of thing it would be neat. I don't think that's possible >> in the context of running within mixed marque groups though. >> >> I do think that tire technology is why we need Southwick rear axles >> to begin with. >> Tony >> On 3/11/2018 10:51 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: >> Henry you not only get it, but also touch on one of the main issues. >> Yes tire technology has allowed these cars to go a lot faster than >> was ever intended. >> They get faster and more stuff breaks; fix one thing and then the >> next weak-link fails. >> At what point does it end? >> Rack & pinion steering, tubular adjustable front suspension, light >> brake calipers, non-triumph gearboxes, wide rims, big-bore engines, >> the latest greatest big-$$ rubber, etc, etc, etc; some folks are >> willing and can afford to take it to the limit, some aren't/cant >> afford it, especially with trying to stay within some set of rules. >> That's why tires are really the biggest equalizer, as difficult as it >> may be to control nowadays; we really need to level the field. >> The other point is that we have to remember that we're VINTAGE racing >> these cars, not doing ongoing development programs for GT cars... >> FWIW >> Safety FasTR! >> Glen >> -----Original Message----- >> From: yellow04 via Fot >> To: fot >> Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 11:02 am >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >> As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of >> the >> readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't >> construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two >> cents... >> Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back >> >> from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these >> new >> tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take your >> chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can be >> really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost >> wheels >> running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the gray >> area >> between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement will >> always >> be the heart of the debate. >> As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that >> >> has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the >> States, >> this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It became >> crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at any >> level, >> there were some things they did "back in the day" that just don't cut >> it >> any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the wheels stay on the >> car >> is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, there lies the >> conundrum... >> For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg >> steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's >> original >> Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. >> Henry >> On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: >>> Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is >> vintage" >>> debate - seems late in the season for it this time... >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> http://www.fot-racing.com [2] >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [4] >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [5] >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com [6] >> _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net >> http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: >> http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> Links: >> ------ >> [2] http://www.fot-racing.com >> [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html >> [4] http://www.team.net/archive >> [5] http://www.team.net/forums >> [6] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > From tr4racing at googlemail.com Mon Mar 12 01:28:32 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 08:28:32 +0100 Subject: [Fot] WG: Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <52851.1520805131@mitchelplumbing.com> <7034B8D4-A7B3-4F6D-A47C-C59AAB2C8BA1@ponostyle.com> Most of the entrance on these Goodwood races are highly payed pro drivers with the clear order to win. And there are bets running on the outcome. No wonder that the car get dents. -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Bill via Fot Gesendet: Montag, 12. M?rz 2018 06:45 An: charly at mitchelplumbing.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? If you watch enough Goodwood videos you see carnage that would get one banned for life at US tracks. > On Mar 11, 2018, at 11:52 AM, Charly via Fot wrote: > > If you watch enough Goodwood Revival race videos, you realize they are > running on the skinniest tires and probably hardest compound and they put on quite a show. But the race organizer demands period correct! > Charly Mitchel > TR6 #44 > > On Sun 11/03/18 12:57 PM , Tony Drews via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: >> Some of the most fun I've had driving was on skinny Dunlops. Major >> drift, big slip angles, what a hoot. If we could get everyone to run >> that kind of thing it would be neat. I don't think that's possible >> in the context of running within mixed marque groups though. >> >> I do think that tire technology is why we need Southwick rear axles >> to begin with. >> Tony >> On 3/11/2018 10:51 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: >> Henry you not only get it, but also touch on one of the main issues. >> Yes tire technology has allowed these cars to go a lot faster than >> was ever intended. >> They get faster and more stuff breaks; fix one thing and then the >> next weak-link fails. >> At what point does it end? >> Rack & pinion steering, tubular adjustable front suspension, light >> brake calipers, non-triumph gearboxes, wide rims, big-bore engines, >> the latest greatest big-$$ rubber, etc, etc, etc; some folks are >> willing and can afford to take it to the limit, some aren't/cant >> afford it, especially with trying to stay within some set of rules. >> That's why tires are really the biggest equalizer, as difficult as it >> may be to control nowadays; we really need to level the field. >> The other point is that we have to remember that we're VINTAGE racing >> these cars, not doing ongoing development programs for GT cars... >> FWIW >> Safety FasTR! >> Glen >> -----Original Message----- >> From: yellow04 via Fot >> To: fot >> Sent: Sun, Mar 11, 2018 11:02 am >> Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? >> As the person who innocently started this thread on the subject of >> the readily available reproduction steel 16P calipers, a part I can't >> construe how anybody could call a cheater part, I'll add my two >> cents... >> Tire technology moved Vintage Racing to a place that we can't go back >> >> from. Like it or not, in order to keep us safe at the speeds these >> new tires allow us to go, you need to get with the program or take >> your chances. Even the venerable Hoosier Vintage TD bias ply tire can >> be really fast in the right hands and we have proof many cars lost >> wheels running Vintage TD's. Safety enhancements were needed, and the >> gray area between whats a safety enhancement and a speed enhancement >> will always be the heart of the debate. >> As I am now taking care of Old Blue, Bill Dentinger's TR3, a car that >> >> has been considered the most vintage correct TR3 running in the >> States, this is an issue I have personally been grappling with. It >> became crystal clear to me that to be comfortable running the car at >> any level, there were some things they did "back in the day" that >> just don't cut it any more. Updating some bits to make sure all the >> wheels stay on the car is just common sense. Taking it beyond that, >> there lies the conundrum... >> For what it's worth, under my watch Old Blue will run worm and peg >> steering, 87mm bore, a Triumph gearbox, and as many of Bill's >> original Triumph Competition Dept. bits as I can. Good fun. >> Henry >> On 2018-03-10 02:18, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: >>> Not sure how a brake question turned into the annual "what is >> vintage" >>> debate - seems late in the season for it this time... >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> http://www.fot-racing.com [2] >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [4] >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [5] >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com [6] >> _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net >> http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: >> http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> Links: >> ------ >> [2] http://www.fot-racing.com >> [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html >> [4] http://www.team.net/archive >> [5] http://www.team.net/forums >> [6] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing at googlemail.com From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Mon Mar 12 03:34:04 2018 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 05:34:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <16215a9b61a-c8b-e5e0@webjas-vae126.srv.aolmail.net> Sorry, Bill... The 62 year old carpet came out, but I was able to wring it out and get a quart of oil for posterity! Analysis will show 62% Castor oil, 36% Kendall, 2% Brad Penn. On 2018-03-11 11:24, Bill Dentinger wrote: > Henry... > > OMG! Does this mean the carpet is coming out too? > > Bill Dentinger From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Mon Mar 12 04:22:39 2018 From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 06:22:39 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? References: <16215c2818f-c8c-65ec@webjas-vaa044.srv.aolmail.net> Apparently, not many people can go back and forth... I ran Old Blue at the Lime Rock Historics a couple years back, an event requiring bias ply tires. Now, there were a handful VSCCA faithful that always run on tall skinny tires, and the fast ones were really fun to watch. But I think the majority of people in my group were interlopers, like me, who ran every other event of the season on radials. The group was a crash fest, most sessions ended short with incidents. During the feature we had an interesting incident in the left-hander. A Giulietta and an MG tangle, the Alfa's front quarter into the rear quarter of an MGA with fiberglass fenders. The fiberglass fender collapsed and the tires touch, vaulting the front end of the Alfa. The Alfa planted his front wheel in the cockpit of the MGA, and the two cars are hooked and spin off the track. Luckily, the Alfa landed in the unoccupied side of the MGA. OK, I'm tired of talking about this stuff, when does the season start??? On 2018-03-11 18:17, Bill via Fot wrote: > What you can?t do well, at least I can?t, is go back and forth > between tire types. From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 12 11:00:11 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 13:00:11 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT Interesting - anyone know this ?car?? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano at yahoo.com Mon Mar 12 11:39:38 2018 From: bschirano at yahoo.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 17:39:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT References: <7C997BC9-0BDA-478D-9979-4C61A219B3CC@me.com> go ahead, say it, I dare ya, you want to buy it and race it, with ALL the current mods.???(i'm egging given all the messaging RE what's "vintage" etc)?26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell? BSchirano at yahoo.com On Monday, March 12, 2018, 1:27:52 PM EDT, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: Interesting - anyone know this ?car??https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Mar 12 12:54:31 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 14:54:31 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT HaHa that was my first thought, how timely... I was hoping someone else would post it before me, thanks! Glen ps- yes ready for Vintage racing -----Original Message----- From: Brian Schirano via Fot To: Scott Janzen via Fot Sent: Mon, Mar 12, 2018 2:09 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT go ahead, say it, I dare ya, you want to buy it and race it, with ALL the current mods. (i'm egging given all the messaging RE what's "vintage" etc) 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell BSchirano at yahoo.com On Monday, March 12, 2018, 1:27:52 PM EDT, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: Interesting - anyone know this ?car?? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Mon Mar 12 13:22:19 2018 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 14:22:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT References: <7C997BC9-0BDA-478D-9979-4C61A219B3CC@me.com> <2024734202.1374265.1520876378334@mail.yahoo.com> Only with a 800 horsepower Ford Performance Coyote motor and 8 speed sequential Gearbox. If your gonna do it, might as well go big. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 12, 2018, at 12:39 PM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > go ahead, say it, I dare ya, you want to buy it and race it, with ALL the current mods. (i'm egging given all the messaging RE what's "vintage" etc) > > 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 > Brian Schirano > 585-305-0349 Cell > BSchirano at yahoo.com > > > On Monday, March 12, 2018, 1:27:52 PM EDT, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > > Interesting - anyone know this ?car?? > https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 12 14:18:12 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 16:18:12 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT References: <7C997BC9-0BDA-478D-9979-4C61A219B3CC@me.com> Certainly not vintage, but it will be a fine car when finished. It takes guts to do them in black. Did you notice the nice Elva Courier they have as well. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Monday, March 12, 2018, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: Interesting - anyone know this ?car?? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Mar 12 14:34:45 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 16:34:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? Now Tires and Cheaters References: <1E88BA83-7D35-47DF-8493-0C7A69BC1C62@artwithcars.com> Steve... I remember well when your Dad de tuned the car for 'vintage'. The thing I remember most is how much those Bulbous orange (Signal Red) Fenders weighed due to all of the bondo repairs. I could hardly lift them. I thought to myself, any advantaged picked up from wide wheels and slicks...gets tempored by the added weight. Bill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Sunday, March 11, 2018, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: My TR3 had wide slicks in the SCCA days, now I run 5.5 wide rims with the best rubber Legal in my vintage club. The car handles great and is very controllable. Also, the tires are less money than the treaded Hoosiers. ~Steve On Mar 11, 2018, at 6:09 PM, Michael Porter via Fot wrote: On 3/11/2018 3:52 PM, Terry Stetler via Fot wrote: I totally agree with Glen and Tony here. The skinny, hard Dunlops would be great if it were the spec tire for all production classes. Sadly, the technological genie is out of the bottle, and once that happens, putting him (or her) back in that bottle is essentially impossible. The mindset of vintage racers is a bit different than SCCA or IMSA, but, I have the feeling that the hard chargers will still push those old skinny skins beyond their limits, and spins would prevail, which are certain to cause more bent sheet metal than currently is the case, and vintage racing intends, in large part, to keep both drivers and cars in one piece and looking pretty much as they did before racing commenced. But, this is not a new subject, and as for originality and the "old days," I do remember walking into a Triumph shop in New England in 1970 that ran an SCCA TR4A IRS, and it was wearing big, fat cheater slicks.... The larger question of when a safety improvement is a performance improvement in disguise is not one that's going to be resolved simply or easily. Generally, bits that don't break unexpectedly are a safety enhancement, as Tony makes clear. We don't think about safety in the same way as in 1962, because we know a lot more about it, especially from the experience of others. No one gets too excited about helmet restraints, because we know a lot more today about TBI and its causes than we did then, for example. We could get quite priggish about originality, but, would anyone today say that the stock fuel tanks were just fine and fuel cells are an unnecessary expense, knowing what we know about fires, or that four-point roll cages aren't original, and therefore shouldn't be allowed (even though there's clearly a performance advantage to them in stiffening the chassis, if done cleverly)? But, one thing that everyone so far is unwilling to admit is that we are inveterate tinkerers, and saying, "well, this little piece of shit part that fails every Friday like it had a timer built into it was good enough for the factory in 1962, so it's good enough for me" just isn't in the vocabulary of most of us. Kas must have file cabinets full of dynamometer test results as proof of that. In that regard, the rules always have some rubber built into them, whether it's apparent to all or not. No one goes into this hobby with the belief that a DNF every weekend is great fun. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Mar 12 14:35:27 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 15:35:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT References: <7C997BC9-0BDA-478D-9979-4C61A219B3CC@me.com> <2024734202.1374265.1520876378334@mail.yahoo.com> <474A0476-8FB1-4CF6-9A5F-7A2E608901F1@att.net> But running on skinny Dunlop tires so it's still "vintage".? :) Tony On 3/12/2018 2:22 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: > > Only with a 800 horsepower Ford Performance Coyote motor and 8 speed > sequential Gearbox. ?If your gonna do it, might as well go big. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 12, 2018, at 12:39 PM, Brian Schirano via Fot > >> go ahead, say it, I dare ya, you want to buy it and race it, with ALL >> the current mods. Emoji?(i'm egging given all the messaging RE what's >> "vintage" etc) >> 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 >> Brian Schirano >> 585-305-0349 Cell >> >> >> On Monday, March 12, 2018, 1:27:52 PM EDT, Scott Janzen via Fot >> >> >> Interesting - anyone know this ?car?? >> https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano at yahoo.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Mar 12 14:52:47 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 20:52:47 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT References: <7C997BC9-0BDA-478D-9979-4C61A219B3CC@me.com> <2024734202.1374265.1520876378334@mail.yahoo.com>, <474A0476-8FB1-4CF6-9A5F-7A2E608901F1@att.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Mon Mar 12 15:31:27 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 14:31:27 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT References: <7C997BC9-0BDA-478D-9979-4C61A219B3CC@me.com> <1621bdd060b-17a1-5f7b@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> I know the Elva well, raced with it many times. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Dentinger via Fot To: fot at autox.team.net Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, March 12, 2018 1:18 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT Certainly not vintage, but it will be a fine car when finished. It takes guts to do them in black. Did you notice the nice Elva Courier they have as well. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Monday, March 12, 2018, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: Interesting - anyone know this ?car?? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Mar 12 16:28:42 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 22:28:42 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT References: <7C997BC9-0BDA-478D-9979-4C61A219B3CC@me.com> <2024734202.1374265.1520876378334@mail.yahoo.com> <474A0476-8FB1-4CF6-9A5F-7A2E608901F1@att.net>, <9d8f8adf-31d9-b05d-ade6-ae4b5a281674@tonydrews.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Mon Mar 12 16:47:43 2018 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 17:47:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT References: <7C997BC9-0BDA-478D-9979-4C61A219B3CC@me.com> <2024734202.1374265.1520876378334@mail.yahoo.com> <474A0476-8FB1-4CF6-9A5F-7A2E608901F1@att.net> <9d8f8adf-31d9-b05d-ade6-ae4b5a281674@tonydrews.com> Only if we can put the skinny tires on the 48 spoke wire wheels that were not even safe on a street car in the day....... Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 12, 2018, at 3:35 PM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > > But running on skinny Dunlop tires so it's still "vintage". :) > > Tony > >> On 3/12/2018 2:22 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: >> >> Only with a 800 horsepower Ford Performance Coyote motor and 8 speed sequential Gearbox. If your gonna do it, might as well go big. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Mar 12, 2018, at 12:39 PM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: >> >>> go ahead, say it, I dare ya, you want to buy it and race it, with ALL the current mods. (i'm egging given all the messaging RE what's "vintage" etc) >>> >>> 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 >>> Brian Schirano >>> 585-305-0349 Cell >>> BSchirano at yahoo.com >>> >>> >>> On Monday, March 12, 2018, 1:27:52 PM EDT, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: >>> >>> >>> Interesting - anyone know this ?car?? >>> https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano at yahoo.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >>> >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Mon Mar 12 17:05:55 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 13:05:55 -1000 Subject: [Fot] TR4 Project on FOT References: <7C997BC9-0BDA-478D-9979-4C61A219B3CC@me.com> <1621bdd060b-17a1-5f7b@webjas-vab174.srv.aolmail.net> I did indeed. That?s Joe Gordon?s car, well prepared and well maintained. > On Mar 12, 2018, at 10:18 AM, Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > > Certainly not vintage, but it will be a fine car when finished. It takes guts to do them in black. > > Did you notice the nice Elva Courier they have as well. > > Bill Dentinger > > > > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > > > Interesting - anyone know this ?car?? > https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano at yahoo.com Mon Mar 12 17:14:08 2018 From: bschirano at yahoo.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 23:14:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] topic change up - venting References: <405606283.77566.1520896448842.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Friends Sorry about stirring the pot on vintage over Scott's post on the TR4 on BAT, pretty nice car though I thought, competing in my dreams for the Volvo 544 with the V8 Anywise - thinking about the oil leak coming from the front of the pan on the GT and the high probability it's the sealing block.? That said, it seems that if I alleviate the air pressure build up in the engine I might minimize it until I actually have another reason to pull the engine. Has anyone ever put a PCV on the vent coming off the valve cover and hooked it to the intake manifold? worked in the old days. Any thoughts and comments are welcome. ThanksBrian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell? BSchirano at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 12 20:43:32 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2018 22:43:32 -0400 Subject: [Fot] topic change up - venting References: <405606283.77566.1520896448842.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <405606283.77566.1520896448842@mail.yahoo.com> I didn?t say I wanted to race it, but since the club I race with, Vintage Racer Group, just decided cars up through 1989 are vintage and eligible (yeesh, frown), it should fit right in! Brian, I would say venting might help, but only if it?s a small leak. If you?ve got a anything more than a drop or two when the the car is stationary and running, you?re going to have more when you?re braking, the oil sloshes up there and it?s hot and at higher revs. On Mar 12, 2018, at 7:14 PM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: Hi Friends Sorry about stirring the pot on vintage over Scott's post on the TR4 on BAT, pretty nice car though I thought, competing in my dreams for the Volvo 544 with the V8 Anywise - thinking about the oil leak coming from the front of the pan on the GT and the high probability it's the sealing block. That said, it seems that if I alleviate the air pressure build up in the engine I might minimize it until I actually have another reason to pull the engine. Has anyone ever put a PCV on the vent coming off the valve cover and hooked it to the intake manifold? worked in the old days. Any thoughts and comments are welcome. Thanks Brian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell BSchirano at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 13 06:26:49 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 12:26:49 +0000 Subject: [Fot] ATL fuel cells Ok this is not a shameless post to reap monetary benefits. It is for the membership to get a deal on a safety related tracing item. I posted about my fuel cell issues and lack of maintenance and the potential safety issues that could have arrived. I offered to any FOT member ATL fuel cells at WD cost plus shipping. I only got one member that says he needs and wants one, seems very odd to me. So I have posted this again in hopes maybe a lot of you didn't see it the first time. I am trying to attain their HUGE WD buy in using your money as my Diesel Performance Parts business gets an occasional diesel fuel cell request call and needs to have the ATL line available. So if you need a ATL cell or fuel bladder, replacement foam or anything else they have get on their site and get me the part number. I will get you a cost and you can decide if it want to buy it or not. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image007.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image007.png URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Tue Mar 13 07:20:05 2018 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (JAMES GRAY) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 07:20:05 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Fot] topic change up - venting References: <405606283.77566.1520896448842.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <405606283.77566.1520896448842@mail.yahoo.com> <3CA2B60C-4FFA-4224-9BEB-98DA04E8D00C@me.com> You could do what the drag race guys do and seal the system up and pull a vacuum on the crankcase. Pumps are made for just that purpose. It would get you by until you decide to pull the motor jim g > On March 12, 2018 at 8:43 PM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > I didn?t say I wanted to race it, but since the club I race with, Vintage Racer Group, just decided cars up through 1989 are vintage and eligible (yeesh, frown), it should fit right in! > > Brian, I would say venting might help, but only if it?s a small leak. If you?ve got a anything more than a drop or two when the the car is stationary and running, you?re going to have more when you?re braking, the oil sloshes up there and it?s hot and at higher revs. > > On Mar 12, 2018, at 7:14 PM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > Hi Friends > > Sorry about stirring the pot on vintage over Scott's post on the TR4 on BAT, pretty nice car though I thought, competing in my dreams for the Volvo 544 with the V8 > > Anywise - thinking about the oil leak coming from the front of the pan on the GT and the high probability it's the sealing block. That said, it seems that if I alleviate the air pressure build up in the engine I might minimize it until I actually have another reason to pull the engine. > > Has anyone ever put a PCV on the vent coming off the valve cover and hooked it to the intake manifold? worked in the old days. > > Any thoughts and comments are welcome. > > Thanks > Brian > > 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 > Brian Schirano > 585-305-0349 Cell > BSchirano at yahoo.com mailto:BSchirano at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 13 07:52:09 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 13:52:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] topic change up - venting References: <405606283.77566.1520896448842.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <405606283.77566.1520896448842@mail.yahoo.com> <3CA2B60C-4FFA-4224-9BEB-98DA04E8D00C@me.com> Hi Brian, Two things - I'd def replace the sealing block with the steel piece. You will never have that problem again. second, a PCV valve will work. I run one on my TR6. I just got a a generic PCV valve with 1/2 barbs and route it to the intake manifold. Note, however that you need to be careful how you place the vent(s) in the valve cover so that you don't suck oil from the valve cover area... note that the stock valve cover has a way to block sloshed oil from pushing out the tube. You only want to vent the mist (and subsequent in-sump pressure) not the oil itself. You can also get a oil separator setup in there, Goodparts makes a really nice one. I have one in my PCV system. No leaks!!! c ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, March 13, 2018, 12:15:29 AM EDT, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: I didn?t say I wanted to race it, but since the club I race with, Vintage Racer Group, just decided cars up through 1989 are vintage and eligible (yeesh, frown), it should fit right in! Brian, I would say venting might help, but only if it?s a small leak. ?If you?ve got a anything more than a drop or two when the the car is stationary and running, you?re going to have more when you?re braking, the oil sloshes up there ?and it?s hot and at higher revs. On Mar 12, 2018, at 7:14 PM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: Hi Friends Sorry about stirring the pot on vintage over Scott's post on the TR4 on BAT, pretty nice car though I thought, competing in my dreams for the Volvo 544 with the V8 Anywise - thinking about the oil leak coming from the front of the pan on the GT and the high probability it's the sealing block.? That said, it seems that if I alleviate the air pressure build up in the engine I might minimize it until I actually have another reason to pull the engine. Has anyone ever put a PCV on the vent coming off the valve cover and hooked it to the intake manifold? worked in the old days. Any thoughts and comments are welcome. ThanksBrian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell? BSchirano at yahoo.com_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Tue Mar 13 08:25:41 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 07:25:41 -0700 Subject: [Fot] ATL fuel cells References: <60f32897c8694daeaba5894a93533bbc@dieselperformanceparts.com> Amici, I am in on this deal and can tell you the savings are significant. Jump in if you are anywhere near needing one. NFI... Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 13, 2018, at 5:26 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: > > Ok this is not a shameless post to reap monetary benefits. It is for the membership to get a deal on a safety related tracing item. > > I posted about my fuel cell issues and lack of maintenance and the potential safety issues that could have arrived. I offered to any FOT member ATL fuel cells at WD cost plus shipping. I only got one member that says he needs and wants one, seems very odd to me. So I have posted this again in hopes maybe a lot of you didn?t see it the first time. I am trying to attain their HUGE WD buy in using your money as my Diesel Performance Parts business gets an occasional diesel fuel cell request call and needs to have the ATL line available. > > So if you need a ATL cell or fuel bladder, replacement foam or anything else they have get on their site and get me the part number. I will get you a cost and you can decide if it want to buy it or not. > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tom.lay at comcast.net Tue Mar 13 09:41:27 2018 From: tom.lay at comcast.net (Tom Lay) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 10:41:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ATL fuel cells References: <60f32897c8694daeaba5894a93533bbc@dieselperformanceparts.com> Bought an atl saver last year. Wish I?d had this deal > On Mar 13, 2018, at 9:25 AM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > > Amici, > > I am in on this deal and can tell you the savings are significant. > > Jump in if you are anywhere near needing one. > > NFI... > > Brad Eells > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 13, 2018, at 5:26 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: >> >> Ok this is not a shameless post to reap monetary benefits. It is for the membership to get a deal on a safety related tracing item. >> >> I posted about my fuel cell issues and lack of maintenance and the potential safety issues that could have arrived. I offered to any FOT member ATL fuel cells at WD cost plus shipping. I only got one member that says he needs and wants one, seems very odd to me. So I have posted this again in hopes maybe a lot of you didn?t see it the first time. I am trying to attain their HUGE WD buy in using your money as my Diesel Performance Parts business gets an occasional diesel fuel cell request call and needs to have the ATL line available. >> >> So if you need a ATL cell or fuel bladder, replacement foam or anything else they have get on their site and get me the part number. I will get you a cost and you can decide if it want to buy it or not. >> >> >> >> MARK CRAIG >> Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. >> 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 >> www.dieselperformanceparts.com >> >> >> >> Phone: 615-834-0066 >> Fax: 615-834-9923 >> Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tom.lay at comcast.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kknight at klaenv.com Tue Mar 13 12:08:10 2018 From: kknight at klaenv.com (Kenneth Knight) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 11:08:10 -0700 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80's and 90's, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact 'vintage', like our cars were in the 80' and 90's. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8" because he doesn't want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than 'back in the day' and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don't have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the 'man' for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that "vintage" racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don't have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of 'good ole boy' NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber.....Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Tue Mar 13 13:51:57 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 15:51:57 -0400 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> ?I agree with Ken. As long as my car will pass the safety tech inspection, I should be able to "fix" my TR any way I like if it keeps me interested in this hobby. If I want to shoehorn in a SBC, just put me in a different class. ? On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Kenneth Knight via Fot wrote: > It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their > races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could > survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The > future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, > they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new > drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and > 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a > certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go > racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. > > > > The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not > maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an > example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When > that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box > (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races > because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t > want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight > penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on > track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. > > > > There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they > make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; > those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can > take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much > better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book > and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I > had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them > back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started > out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over > as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at > the track. > > > > Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best > it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake > Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a > quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change > the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run > all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even > at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. > Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. > > > > My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the > cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly > see our sport fade. They will *always* be a special place for those cars > with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For > the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, > there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. > Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of > ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% > scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a > great 2018 season racing! > > > > Ken > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Tue Mar 13 14:04:50 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 16:04:50 -0400 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> Ken Knight provides more 'why and if' fodder to be digested. He makes lots of good points. Another issue is the graying of the original folks who got Vintage/Historic racing going. They're retiring, if not passing on. And those coming of age (read acquiring enough discretionary income to allow spilling some at a race track) will want to drive the cars the lusted after in their youth. That's why muscle cars are HOT. My home club, the VSCDA, was started in the late 1970s by a guy named John Kleen. From the Chicago area, he started the VSCDA as a sort of 'Prairie Region Branch' of the VSCCA out EAST. Quite frankly, the VSCDA did not want ANY Triumphs at their events. "Too common!!!", they said. Fortunately, some early, charter members took the position that was ridiculous. Triumph was a major player in the Golden Age of Sports Car racing and deserved to be involved. Reluctantly, TR2s and TR3s made their list of approved cars, provided you could prove your car had a 'race history'. Bob Wismer and I both raced TR3s at the early VSCDA events. Bob's TR3 was a tired, street car. He was building a TR4 race car at the time. He asked John Kleen when TR4s would make the List of approved VSCDA race cars. John Kleen answered, "NEVER!" That's the way it was. John Kleen is actually a great guy, and, as the Founding Father, VSCDA racers owe him a lot. John had a Bugatti, a Mercedes Gull Wing, a BMW 328, and cars like that. I guess it is not a surprise he sort of looked down his nose at Triumphs. But being so restrictive, VSCDA could not attract enough cars to rent a race track by itself. They had to buy some left over track time from healthier groups like the SCCA or the Midwestern Council of Sports Car Clubs. Then in the mid-1980s they decided to approve more cars, and especially younger 'vintage' cars. Natural evolution. As the result, they were very, very successful. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Kenneth Knight via Fot To: FOT Sent: Tue, Mar 13, 2018 12:10 pm Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Tue Mar 13 14:44:29 2018 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 13:44:29 -0700 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> I was lucky enough to drive Ken?s TR4 and I?m pretty sure it?s got rocket boosters in there somewhere. ~Steve > On Mar 13, 2018, at 12:51 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: > > ?I agree with Ken. As long as my car will pass the safety tech inspection, I should be able to "fix" my TR any way I like if it keeps me interested in this hobby. If I want to shoehorn in a SBC, just put me in a different class. > ? > > >> On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Kenneth Knight via Fot wrote: >> It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. >> >> >> >> The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. >> >> >> >> There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. >> >> >> >> Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. >> >> >> >> My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! >> >> >> >> Ken >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Mar 13 22:11:04 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 21:11:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> Vintage racing is the best. You get to make your own rules and no one notices, because they need to get more people involved in the sport and keep the entry cost down. Yet, I'm still having fun with my estimated 125 at the crank HPs in my TR3. 13 events and I really haven't touched it. Tires, gas and basic maintenance. Same engine, same transmission. I qualified 5th in my second race and got my first pole in the wet in my 7th race. Thankfully, no one can see when I hit the nitrous button and then blow by everyone on the straight. If you've seen my videos, you'd be familiar with this part. Even the cars that I blow on by, can't see me. I think we'd all be having more fun, racing together, under the same rules...and tires...and axles. All smiles, DH > On March 13, 2018 at 1:44 PM Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > I was lucky enough to drive Ken?s TR4 and I?m pretty sure it?s got rocket boosters in there somewhere. > > ~Steve > > > On Mar 13, 2018, at 12:51 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: > > > > > I agree with Ken. As long as my car will pass the safety tech inspection, I should be able to "fix" my TR any way I like if it keeps me interested in this hobby. If I want to shoehorn in a SBC, just put me in a different class. > > > > > > On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Kenneth Knight via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. > > > > > > > > > > > > The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. > > > > > > > > > > > > There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. > > > > > > > > > > > > Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. > > > > > > > > > > > > My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! > > > > > > > > > > > > Ken > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 08:59:53 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 07:59:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear suspension questions Hello Friends, Jon Gannaway is building another TR4 race car and I visited him last weekend to check it out. For some reason he fell off the FoT list. First, do TR4 race cars run the stock aluminum blocks between the spring and axle? And, remove the axle limiting straps? Jon's car was on jack stands and the axle sits in the middle of the travel unweighted. It seems that it would be hitting the stops at the slightest bump once on the ground. My TR3 sits right in the middle while static and I do not use the straps. Dave H. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 09:13:35 2018 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (JAMES GRAY) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 09:13:35 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> <465256892.497167.1521000664889@connect.xfinity.com> In RMVR we don't know what to expect from our governing board. It took two years for them to allow dual DCOE's on my TR4. Many old time members, especially one founding member that doesn't even drive anymore acted like I just shot their dogs at the mere mention of dual webers on a TR4. Several people stood in front of the board to vote against what was homologated in 1963. RMVR used to have a D-Mod class where they would be considered normal equipment. They did away with that class long ago. Anyway, they eventually let me have them with a token bump in class to CP. The funny thing is, depending on WHO you are blind eyes will be turned. We have two Porsche 914's running Mega-Squirt engine management systems & E85 fuel with the full blessing of the Porsche eligibility commissioner, another EP 914 that can chase down big bore mustangs and camaro's on the straights, likely a 2.5+ liter motor and a wicked fast Super 7 with all Elan suspension. And that's just the small bore class. It can be very confusing sometimes in this club. I run on Hoosier SM-7's or Toyo RA-1's. The car has never been on bias plies or any vintage tire. We also have some very draconian spin rules. You go 90 degrees on track & never leave the pavement, it's still a spin & you report to the grid. You can be put on the trailer for two of them in a weekend. If the tire rules suddenly mandated everybody went to vintage rubber it would be a complete spin fest in this club. If we were held to the tire rule I wouldn't mind but all the fast cars mentioned above plus a couple Hufffaker powered spridgets are my main competition in small bore and they all run modern radials like the SM-7. So, as long as they run them so will I. I'm hoping to get a pass to run the Toyo RA-1's at Road America in September. Jim g > On March 13, 2018 at 10:11 PM DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > Vintage racing is the best. You get to make your own rules and no one notices, because they need to get more people involved in the sport and keep the entry cost down. > > > Yet, I'm still having fun with my estimated 125 at the crank HPs in my TR3. 13 events and I really haven't touched it. Tires, gas and basic maintenance. Same engine, same transmission. I qualified 5th in my second race and got my first pole in the wet in my 7th race. Thankfully, no one can see when I hit the nitrous button and then blow by everyone on the straight. If you've seen my videos, you'd be familiar with this part. Even the cars that I blow on by, can't see me. > > > I think we'd all be having more fun, racing together, under the same rules...and tires...and axles. > > > All smiles, DH > > > > > On March 13, 2018 at 1:44 PM Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > > > I was lucky enough to drive Ken?s TR4 and I?m pretty sure it?s got rocket boosters in there somewhere. > > > > ~Steve > > > > > > On Mar 13, 2018, at 12:51 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > I agree with Ken. As long as my car will pass the safety tech inspection, I should be able to "fix" my TR any way I like if it keeps me interested in this hobby. If I want to shoehorn in a SBC, just put me in a different class. > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 2:08 PM, Kenneth Knight via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Ken > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From riverside at southslope.net Wed Mar 14 15:00:52 2018 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 16:00:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 head My book collection has failed me. I need to know the stock thickness of a TR6 head. Any help is much appreciated. Art De Armond -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From chip at theukmotorsports.com Wed Mar 14 16:11:25 2018 From: chip at theukmotorsports.com (Chip Collingwood) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 22:11:25 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR6 head References: thicker as the years progressed...they de-tuned the motors and added emissions. If you look at Richard Goods website he lists compression ratios based on zero decking the block and head thicknesses...some heads we would take as much as 0.225 or more. What's your goal? On Wed, Mar 14, 2018, 5:56 PM riverside--- via Fot wrote: > My book collection has failed me. > I need to know the stock thickness of > a TR6 head. > Any help is much appreciated. > > Art De Armond > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chip at theukmotorsports.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bownes at seiri.com Wed Mar 14 17:56:01 2018 From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes -Seiri) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2018 19:56:01 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR6 head References: The emissions head can take 0.250?. Doesn?t make it a good idea however. But if someone wants to buy one, I?ll make you a Very Good Deal. :) > On Mar 14, 2018, at 18:11, Chip Collingwood via Fot wrote: > > thicker as the years progressed...they de-tuned the motors and added emissions. If you look at Richard Goods website he lists compression ratios based on zero decking the block and head thicknesses...some heads we would take as much as 0.225 or more. What's your goal? > >> On Wed, Mar 14, 2018, 5:56 PM riverside--- via Fot wrote: >> My book collection has failed me. >> I need to know the stock thickness of >> a TR6 head. >> Any help is much appreciated. >> >> Art De Armond >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chip at theukmotorsports.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triosan at gmail.com Wed Mar 14 20:33:00 2018 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 02:33:00 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR6 head References: <68D0B763-F0DC-4419-99B8-DD23A4A37A86@seiri.com> I shaved mine to abour 3.26 inches. On Wed, Mar 14, 2018, 6:03 PM Bob Bownes -Seiri via Fot wrote: > The emissions head can take 0.250?. Doesn?t make it a good idea however. > But if someone wants to buy one, I?ll make you a Very Good Deal. :) > > On Mar 14, 2018, at 18:11, Chip Collingwood via Fot > wrote: > > thicker as the years progressed...they de-tuned the motors and added > emissions. If you look at Richard Goods website he lists compression ratios > based on zero decking the block and head thicknesses...some heads we would > take as much as 0.225 or more. What's your goal? > > On Wed, Mar 14, 2018, 5:56 PM riverside--- via Fot > wrote: > >> My book collection has failed me. >> I need to know the stock thickness of >> a TR6 head. >> Any help is much appreciated. >> >> Art De Armond >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chip at theukmotorsports.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triosan at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Thu Mar 15 07:41:16 2018 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 08:41:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ATL fuel cells References: <60f32897c8694daeaba5894a93533bbc@dieselperformanceparts.com> I?m in. For a savings of 36%, why not? C?mon, gents, get your orders in now. We need to raise the number of orders if Mark is going to be able to make this work. Duncan > On Mar 13, 2018, at 7:26 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: > > Ok this is not a shameless post to reap monetary benefits. It is for the membership to get a deal on a safety related tracing item. > > I posted about my fuel cell issues and lack of maintenance and the potential safety issues that could have arrived. I offered to any FOT member ATL fuel cells at WD cost plus shipping. I only got one member that says he needs and wants one, seems very odd to me. So I have posted this again in hopes maybe a lot of you didn?t see it the first time. I am trying to attain their HUGE WD buy in using your money as my Diesel Performance Parts business gets an occasional diesel fuel cell request call and needs to have the ATL line available. > > So if you need a ATL cell or fuel bladder, replacement foam or anything else they have get on their site and get me the part number. I will get you a cost and you can decide if it want to buy it or not. > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Thu Mar 15 16:32:57 2018 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 22:32:57 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Thu Mar 15 18:16:37 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 00:16:37 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com>, An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Thu Mar 15 18:50:58 2018 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 19:50:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> Henry, Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. Paul > On Mar 15, 2018, at 5:32 PM, Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: > > I just can't disagree with this statement more. > 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. > 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. > 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. > 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. > > Have a great racing season, > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > Sent from Outlook > > > > It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. > > The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. > > There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. > > Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. > > My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! > > Ken > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Thu Mar 15 22:43:26 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2018 18:43:26 -1000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. > On Mar 15, 2018, at 2:50 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: > > Henry, > > Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. > > We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. > > Paul > >> >> I just can't disagree with this statement more. >> 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. >> 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. >> 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. >> 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. >> >> Have a great racing season, >> >> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM >> >> Sent from Outlook >> >> >> >> It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. >> >> The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. >> >> There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. >> >> Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. >> >> My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! >> >> Ken >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Fri Mar 16 10:26:20 2018 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 16:26:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com>, , <7EAD3B5C-0DE9-4A80-B6A2-A5F47462AD82@mhc-law.com> I wish, they're just old stock non OD units. from TR-3's and probably 6's. I think I have about 5. don't "need" any of them. Cheers, Henry Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: John Hasty Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 6:16 PM To: Henry A. Morrison Cc: Kenneth Knight; fot Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Henry... any of those gear sets you have happen to be the close ratio TR set? I still use one with an A OD & could use a spare..... Sent from my iPhone I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Fri Mar 16 10:40:23 2018 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 16:40:23 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> , Solipsistic? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Bill Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To: Paul Ricco Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. Henry, Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. Paul I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Fri Mar 16 10:55:29 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 12:55:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts The early boxes aren't worth much, they have inherent weaknesses, but the later 6 box is much better, especially for a racecar. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Henry A. Morrison via Fot To: John Hasty Cc: fot Sent: Fri, Mar 16, 2018 12:42 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I wish, they're just old stock non OD units. from TR-3's and probably 6's. I think I have about 5. don't "need" any of them. Cheers, Henry Sent from Outlook From: John Hasty Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 6:16 PM To: Henry A. Morrison Cc: Kenneth Knight; fot Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Henry... any of those gear sets you have happen to be the close ratio TR set? I still use one with an A OD & could use a spare..... Sent from my iPhone On Mar 15, 2018, at 7:45 PM, Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Fri Mar 16 11:10:03 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 07:10:03 -1000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> Different strokes I guess. I don?t care what the other cars are as long as I?m having fun. A CRX ruined the aesthetic? How many people were watching the TR3?s run back in the day. I used to go to Thompson and Limerock to watch the sports car races. Me and thirty other people. Sepia toned nostalgia is safe because it doesn?t have to be real. I know plenty of snobs who just think anyone who isn?t doing what they do is wrong. > On Mar 16, 2018, at 6:40 AM, Henry A. Morrison wrote: > > Solipsistic? > > I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? > > At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. > > I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. > > Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. > > I do appreciate all Triumphs. > > Cheers, Henry Morrison > Sent from Outlook > > > From: Bill > Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM > To: Paul Ricco > Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts > > I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. > >> >> Henry, >> >> Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. >> >> We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. >> >> Paul >> >>> >>> I just can't disagree with this statement more. >>> 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. >>> 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. >>> 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. >>> 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. >>> >>> Have a great racing season, >>> >>> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM >>> >>> Sent from Outlook >>> >>> >>> >>> It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. >>> >>> The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. >>> >>> There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. >>> >>> Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. >>> >>> My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! >>> >>> Ken >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Fri Mar 16 11:14:40 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 17:14:40 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> , Henry, Wow chill out, you're gonna blow a personal gasket. Maybe you need to race with a different vintage group/organization. At VDCA we got a few Miata's, but they run in a different group normally than us Triumph guys. Try it you'll like it!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Henry A. Morrison via Fot Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 11:40 AM To: Bill ; Paul Ricco Cc: Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Solipsistic? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ________________________________ Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To: Paul Ricco Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I'm trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you're leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80's cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That's a bit too solipsistic for me. Henry, Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60's era sports car for. We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60's and 70's as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma's that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. Paul I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80's and 90's, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact 'vintage', like our cars were in the 80' and 90's. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8" because he doesn't want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than 'back in the day' and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don't have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the 'man' for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that "vintage" racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don't have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of 'good ole boy' NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber...........Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Fri Mar 16 11:45:53 2018 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 17:45:53 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> , <3770D46E-6F0F-4A7D-B538-E22A67F0ADC0@ponostyle.com> 100,000 spectators attended the 1952 races in Elkhart Lake to watch guys put around in their Jowett Jupiters and MGTD's and some Jags. That may have been the high point. i don't know when back in the day is for you. I took my sons to the 12 hour Grand Am race in Salt Lake 10 years or so ago and as we were chatting up Hurley Haywood and David Donahue, i realized the drivers might have outnumbered the fans. A few people don't care what they run with. If nobody cared what they were running with, nobody would have left the SCCA to start the massive Vintage Racing movement. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Bill Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 11:10 AM To: Henry A. Morrison Cc: Paul Ricco; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Different strokes I guess. I don?t care what the other cars are as long as I?m having fun. A CRX ruined the aesthetic? How many people were watching the TR3?s run back in the day. I used to go to Thompson and Limerock to watch the sports car races. Me and thirty other people. Sepia toned nostalgia is safe because it doesn?t have to be real. I know plenty of snobs who just think anyone who isn?t doing what they do is wrong. Solipsistic? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ________________________________ Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To: Paul Ricco Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. Henry, Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. Paul I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Fri Mar 16 11:48:54 2018 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 17:48:54 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> , , <2185b667c66e4a59b715b80db359876f@dieselperformanceparts.com> My temperature gauge is not even approaching the oil pressure section. I'm cool if the Miatas stay in their end of the pool. But lately there seems always to be some car that just seems to be a little bit out of the period. Haven't had to race a Prius yet. Cheers, Henry Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: DPPI - Mark Craig Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 11:14 AM To: Henry A. Morrison Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Henry, Wow chill out, you?re gonna blow a personal gasket. Maybe you need to race with a different vintage group/organization. At VDCA we got a few Miata?s, but they run in a different group normally than us Triumph guys. Try it you?ll like it!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Henry A. Morrison via Fot Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 11:40 AM To: Bill ; Paul Ricco Cc: Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Solipsistic? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ________________________________ Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To: Paul Ricco Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. Henry, Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. Paul I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From billdentin at aol.com Fri Mar 16 12:44:18 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 14:44:18 -0400 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Henry... Back in the 1980s I raced at Shannonville up in Canada. It is a sort of seedy Club Circuit, but with two interesting features. ONE you can sit in the grandstands and virtually see the entire circuit. TWO it has side by side straights, where traffic 'comes back at you'. Believe me that will scare the hell out of you the first time out...if someone does not warn you about it. Anyway they had a HUGE CRX group. I could not believe how many cars were allowed to run in that group. Shannonville is pretty narrow, and that race group was one LONG train for the whole race. I do not think that there was any passing after Turn Three on Lap One. But, not unlike Formula Vee, it is/was an economical way to go racing, and they all seemed to be having fun. Bill Dentinger PS a third plus for Shannonville, is the nearby town (Kingston). Really quaint little town on the lake. Shirley and I enjoyed staying there. Nice. -----Original Message----- From: Henry A. Morrison via Fot To: Bill ; Paul Ricco Cc: Friends of Triumph Sent: Fri, Mar 16, 2018 10:15 am Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Solipsistic? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook From: Bill Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To: Paul Ricco Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. On Mar 15, 2018, at 2:50 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: Henry, Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. Paul On Mar 15, 2018, at 5:32 PM, Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Fri Mar 16 12:49:06 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 18:49:06 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> , <3770D46E-6F0F-4A7D-B538-E22A67F0ADC0@ponostyle.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Fri Mar 16 12:54:54 2018 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (JAMES GRAY) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 12:54:54 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> , You nailed it Henry, cars of the 80's sucked then and now. I think along with that they just didn't have the charm and audacity our cars were born with, the ability to turn heads still today. My car is registered for the street and when I have it out on the road it really gets attention. I got pulled over by a cop once just so he could see it up close. You won't get that kind of attention in an IROC camaro. I have this picture of a fully flared IMSA AMC Pacer in my mind I can't get out... jim g > On March 16, 2018 at 10:40 AM "Henry A. Morrison via Fot" wrote: > > Solipsistic? > > I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? > > At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. > > I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. > > Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. > > I do appreciate all Triumphs. > > Cheers, Henry Morrison > > Sent from Outlook http://aka.ms/weboutlook > > > > > --------------------------------------------- > From: Bill > Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM > To: Paul Ricco > Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts > > I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. > > > > > On Mar 15, 2018, at 2:50 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: > > > > Henry, > > > > Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. > > > > We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. > > > > Paul > > > > > > > > > On Mar 15, 2018, at 5:32 PM, Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: > > > > > > I just can't disagree with this statement more. > > > 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. > > > 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. > > > 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. > > > 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. > > > > > > Have a great racing season, > > > > > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > > > > > Sent from Outlook http://aka.ms/weboutlook > > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------- > > > > > > It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. > > > > > > The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. > > > > > > There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. > > > > > > Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. > > > > > > My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! > > > > > > Ken > > > _______________________________________________ > > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com/ > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com/ > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Fri Mar 16 13:00:59 2018 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 12:00:59 -0700 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> <3770D46E-6F0F-4A7D-B538-E22A67F0ADC0@ponostyle.com> Just for the record when I was racing my TR-3 at Santa Barbara the field of cars was over 300 and well past 25,000 spectators each day, lots of college kids. Pomona not quite as many entries but well over 200 and spectators over 20, 000 again. This was the middle and late 50's , Now there are a lot more things to do so the spectators have drifted away and the cars have worn out and proved to expensive to keep up so they have diminished, but it was GRAND in its day like a lot of old stuff. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 10:10 AM, Bill via Fot wrote: > Different strokes I guess. I don?t care what the other cars are as long as > I?m having fun. A CRX ruined the aesthetic? How many people were watching > the TR3?s run back in the day. I used to go to Thompson and Limerock to > watch the sports car races. Me and thirty other people. Sepia toned > nostalgia is safe because it doesn?t have to be real. > > I know plenty of snobs who just think anyone who isn?t doing what they do > is wrong. > > On Mar 16, 2018, at 6:40 AM, Henry A. Morrison > wrote: > > Solipsistic? > > I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I > went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I > working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other > POS? > > At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these > ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX > ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner > and tell him to get a real car. > > I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall > pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those > cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad > wine. > > Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. > > I do appreciate all Triumphs. > > Cheers, Henry Morrison > Sent from Outlook > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Bill > *Sent:* Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM > *To:* Paul Ricco > *Cc:* Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts > > I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is > saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules > are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, > then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you > started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever > you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage > mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too > solipsistic for me. > > On Mar 15, 2018, at 2:50 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot > wrote: > > Henry, > > Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club > racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing > after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit > of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a > vintage 60?s era sports car for. > > We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can > be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and > 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of > the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping > another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to > deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for > vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the > rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you > cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. > > Paul > > On Mar 15, 2018, at 5:32 PM, Henry A. Morrison via Fot > wrote: > > I just can't disagree with this statement more. > 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than > there were in 1986 when I started. > 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. > Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the > current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. > 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you > like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on > ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. > 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry > fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. > > Have a great racing season, > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > Sent from Outlook > > > ------------------------------ > > It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their > races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could > survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The > future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, > they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new > drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and > 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a > certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go > racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. > > > The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not > maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an > example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When > that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box > (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races > because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t > want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight > penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on > track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. > > > There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they > make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; > those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can > take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much > better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book > and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I > had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them > back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started > out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over > as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at > the track. > > > Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best > it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake > Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a > quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change > the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run > all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even > at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. > Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. > > > My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the > cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly > see our sport fade. They will*always* be a special place for those cars > with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For > the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, > there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. > Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of > ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% > scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a > great 2018 season racing! > > > Ken > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Fri Mar 16 13:44:59 2018 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 19:44:59 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> <3770D46E-6F0F-4A7D-B538-E22A67F0ADC0@ponostyle.com>, In researching the history of my Elva, 20,000 spectators at Continental Divide Raceway in Colorado was reported by Sportscar magazine in 1960. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Kas Kastner Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 1:00 PM To: Bill Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Just for the record when I was racing my TR-3 at Santa Barbara the field of cars was over 300 and well past 25,000 spectators each day, lots of college kids. Pomona not quite as many entries but well over 200 and spectators over 20, 000 again. This was the middle and late 50's , Now there are a lot more things to do so the spectators have drifted away and the cars have worn out and proved to expensive to keep up so they have diminished, but it was GRAND in its day like a lot of old stuff. Never be beaten by equipment. Different strokes I guess. I don?t care what the other cars are as long as I?m having fun. A CRX ruined the aesthetic? How many people were watching the TR3?s run back in the day. I used to go to Thompson and Limerock to watch the sports car races. Me and thirty other people. Sepia toned nostalgia is safe because it doesn?t have to be real. I know plenty of snobs who just think anyone who isn?t doing what they do is wrong. Solipsistic? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ________________________________ Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To: Paul Ricco Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. Henry, Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. Paul I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Fri Mar 16 14:03:03 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 13:03:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> , As a metaphysical position, solipsism goes further to the conclusion that the world and other minds do not exist. Charly Mitchel ----- Original Message ----- From: Henry A. Morrison via Fot To: Bill ; Paul Ricco Cc: Friends of Triumph Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 9:40 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Solipsistic? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Bill Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To: Paul Ricco Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. On Mar 15, 2018, at 2:50 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: Henry, Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. Paul On Mar 15, 2018, at 5:32 PM, Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook -------------------------------------------------------------------------- It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tlizzard at msn.com Fri Mar 16 15:23:54 2018 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 21:23:54 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> , , <2185b667c66e4a59b715b80db359876f@dieselperformanceparts.com>, Just remember, back in the day the Porsche and Alfa Romeo guys, to say nothing of the Ferrari owners, said the same things about our Triumphs and MGs as some are saying about the Miata, RX7, et al? To say nothing about how the old boys in the SCCA reacted when a first generation Honda Civic beat the Sprites at the Run Offs at Mid Ohio in H Prod. Terry Stetler. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Henry A. Morrison via Fot Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 1:48:54 PM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts My temperature gauge is not even approaching the oil pressure section. I'm cool if the Miatas stay in their end of the pool. But lately there seems always to be some car that just seems to be a little bit out of the period. Haven't had to race a Prius yet. Cheers, Henry Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: DPPI - Mark Craig Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 11:14 AM To: Henry A. Morrison Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Henry, Wow chill out, you?re gonna blow a personal gasket. Maybe you need to race with a different vintage group/organization. At VDCA we got a few Miata?s, but they run in a different group normally than us Triumph guys. Try it you?ll like it!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Henry A. Morrison via Fot Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 11:40 AM To: Bill ; Paul Ricco Cc: Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Solipsistic? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ________________________________ Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To: Paul Ricco Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. Henry, Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. Paul I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Fri Mar 16 15:48:40 2018 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 21:48:40 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> , , <8E1C1FCD3E904FAEAC8B9B01DFD1E16C@Charly> I guess that's just what happens when you know you're right! (thanks for the definition, it's my new knowledge for the day) Cheers, Henry Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Charly Mitchel Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 2:03 PM To: Henry A. Morrison; Bill; Paul Ricco Cc: Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts As a metaphysical position, solipsism goes further to the conclusion that the world and other minds do not exist. Charly Mitchel ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 9:40 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Solipsistic? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: Bill Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To: Paul Ricco Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. Henry, Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. Paul I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ________________________________ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Fri Mar 16 20:57:43 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 16:57:43 -1000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <16230207755-1deb-46fb@webjas-vaa238.srv.aolmail.net> Every Canadian track is seedy?and crazy fun. The infield at Mosport is particularly memorable with all the skanky RVs that must have gone there to die. There was a motor coach parked sideways on a steep hill with no attempt at leveling and the little kids did bonfires at night and ran around like Lord of the Flies. That plus the two downhill off camber blind apex turns, and that insane hairpin turn. My vintage group there was about 50 cars. I was very please to be out near the front?until we started lapping the slower cars that were having pitched battles in groups of five and never checked their mirror. Dear lord. I pulled into the pits after race one and just sat in the car, trying to sort out whether or not I was having fun. After a few beers in the paddock I decided that YES, I was. > On Mar 16, 2018, at 8:44 AM, Bill Dentinger wrote: > > Henry... > > Back in the 1980s I raced at Shannonville up in Canada. It is a sort of seedy Club Circuit, but with two interesting features. ONE you can sit in the grandstands and virtually see the entire circuit. TWO it has side by side straights, where traffic 'comes back at you'. Believe me that will scare the hell out of you the first time out...if someone does not warn you about it. > > Anyway they had a HUGE CRX group. I could not believe how many cars were allowed to run in that group. Shannonville is pretty narrow, and that race group was one LONG train for the whole race. I do not think that there was any passing after Turn Three on Lap One. But, not unlike Formula Vee, it is/was an economical way to go racing, and they all seemed to be having fun. > > Bill Dentinger > > PS a third plus for Shannonville, is the nearby town (Kingston). Really quaint little town on the lake. Shirley and I enjoyed staying there. Nice. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Henry A. Morrison via Fot > To: Bill ; Paul Ricco > Cc: Friends of Triumph > Sent: Fri, Mar 16, 2018 10:15 am > Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts > > Solipsistic? > > I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? > > At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. > > I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. > > Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. > > I do appreciate all Triumphs. > > Cheers, Henry Morrison > Sent from Outlook > > > Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM > To: Paul Ricco > Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph > Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts > > I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. > > > Henry, > > Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. > > We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. > > Paul > > > I just can't disagree with this statement more. > 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. > 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. > 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. > 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. > > Have a great racing season, > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > Sent from Outlook > > > > It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. > > The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. > > There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. > > Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. > > My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! > > Ken > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Fri Mar 16 20:59:43 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 16:59:43 -1000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> <8E1C1FCD3E904FAEAC8B9B01DFD1E16C@Charly> Had to look it up, did ya? Lol. > On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:03 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote: > > As a metaphysical position, solipsism goes further to the conclusion that the world and other minds do not exist. > Charly Mitchel > ----- Original Message ----- >> Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 9:40 AM >> Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts >> >> Solipsistic? >> >> I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? >> >> At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. >> >> I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. >> >> Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. >> >> I do appreciate all Triumphs. >> >> Cheers, Henry Morrison >> Sent from Outlook >> >> >> From: Bill >> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM >> To: Paul Ricco >> Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph >> Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts >> >> I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. >> >>> >>> Henry, >>> >>> Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. >>> >>> We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. >>> >>> Paul >>> >>>> >>>> I just can't disagree with this statement more. >>>> 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. >>>> 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. >>>> 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. >>>> 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. >>>> >>>> Have a great racing season, >>>> >>>> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM >>>> >>>> Sent from Outlook >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. >>>> >>>> The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. >>>> >>>> There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. >>>> >>>> Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. >>>> >>>> My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! >>>> >>>> Ken >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Fri Mar 16 21:09:15 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 17:09:15 -1000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> <3770D46E-6F0F-4A7D-B538-E22A67F0ADC0@ponostyle.com> I understand there were venues that had lots of spectators, as there are today despite other distractions. Club racing was rarely that. I sat in the stands with about 60,000 of my closest friends at Ascot Park one night in August 1965 when Kenny Roberts demolished everyone. I remember looking over my shoulder at Watts burning. A month or so later I raced the same event and there were five guys and a dog in the stands. > On Mar 16, 2018, at 9:00 AM, Kas Kastner wrote: > > Just for the record when I was racing my TR-3 at Santa Barbara the field of cars was over 300 and well past 25,000 spectators each day, lots of college kids. Pomona not quite as many entries but well over 200 and spectators over 20, 000 again. This was the middle and late 50's > , Now there are a lot more things to do so the spectators have drifted away and the cars have worn out and proved to expensive to keep up so they have diminished, but it was GRAND in its day like a lot of old stuff. > > > > > > > Never be beaten by equipment. > > > Different strokes I guess. I don?t care what the other cars are as long as I?m having fun. A CRX ruined the aesthetic? How many people were watching the TR3?s run back in the day. I used to go to Thompson and Limerock to watch the sports car races. Me and thirty other people. Sepia toned nostalgia is safe because it doesn?t have to be real. > > I know plenty of snobs who just think anyone who isn?t doing what they do is wrong. > >> >> Solipsistic? >> >> I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? >> >> At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. >> >> I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. >> >> Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. >> >> I do appreciate all Triumphs. >> >> Cheers, Henry Morrison >> Sent from Outlook >> >> >> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM >> To: Paul Ricco >> Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph >> Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts >> >> I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. >> >>> >>> Henry, >>> >>> Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. >>> >>> We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. >>> >>> Paul >>> >>>> >>>> I just can't disagree with this statement more. >>>> 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. >>>> 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. >>>> 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. >>>> 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. >>>> >>>> Have a great racing season, >>>> >>>> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM >>>> >>>> Sent from Outlook >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. >>>> >>>> The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. >>>> >>>> There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. >>>> >>>> Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. >>>> >>>> My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! >>>> >>>> Ken >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From TLizzard at msn.com Sat Mar 17 05:08:37 2018 From: TLizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 11:08:37 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Goodwood Members Meeting Live Feed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YboNXPkXsGA F5000 cars about to go out, and it?s snowing!!! Terry Stetler Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sat Mar 17 05:47:46 2018 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 06:47:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> <3770D46E-6F0F-4A7D-B538-E22A67F0ADC0@ponostyle.com> <91974D92-7686-4FB5-B906-2181F2BCA1BC@ponostyle.com> Those of you that have been to Pittsburgh Vintage GP have seen the big crowd of spectators there. Duncan > On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:09 PM, Bill via Fot wrote: > > I understand there were venues that had lots of spectators, as there are today despite other distractions. Club racing was rarely that. I sat in the stands with about 60,000 of my closest friends at Ascot Park one night in August 1965 when Kenny Roberts demolished everyone. I remember looking over my shoulder at Watts burning. A month or so later I raced the same event and there were five guys and a dog in the stands. > >> >> Just for the record when I was racing my TR-3 at Santa Barbara the field of cars was over 300 and well past 25,000 spectators each day, lots of college kids. Pomona not quite as many entries but well over 200 and spectators over 20, 000 again. This was the middle and late 50's >> , Now there are a lot more things to do so the spectators have drifted away and the cars have worn out and proved to expensive to keep up so they have diminished, but it was GRAND in its day like a lot of old stuff. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Never be beaten by equipment. >> >> >> Different strokes I guess. I don?t care what the other cars are as long as I?m having fun. A CRX ruined the aesthetic? How many people were watching the TR3?s run back in the day. I used to go to Thompson and Limerock to watch the sports car races. Me and thirty other people. Sepia toned nostalgia is safe because it doesn?t have to be real. >> >> I know plenty of snobs who just think anyone who isn?t doing what they do is wrong. >> >>> >>> Solipsistic? >>> >>> I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? >>> >>> At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. >>> >>> I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. >>> >>> Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. >>> >>> I do appreciate all Triumphs. >>> >>> Cheers, Henry Morrison >>> Sent from Outlook >>> >>> >>> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM >>> To: Paul Ricco >>> Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph >>> Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts >>> >>> I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. >>> >>>> >>>> Henry, >>>> >>>> Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. >>>> >>>> We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. >>>> >>>> Paul >>>> >>>>> >>>>> I just can't disagree with this statement more. >>>>> 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. >>>>> 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. >>>>> 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. >>>>> 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. >>>>> >>>>> Have a great racing season, >>>>> >>>>> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM >>>>> >>>>> Sent from Outlook >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. >>>>> >>>>> The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. >>>>> >>>>> There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. >>>>> >>>>> Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. >>>>> >>>>> My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! >>>>> >>>>> Ken >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>> >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitracer1296 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 17 07:20:46 2018 From: spitracer1296 at yahoo.com (chris crisenbery) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 13:20:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Looking for transportation from Phoenix to anywhere closer to Michigan References: <1599367221.2297950.1521292846966.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Looking at buying a project pick up in Phoenix and really don't want to make the round trip from Michigan. Don't mind driving a ways to meet someone, so looking for reasonable transportation. Open trailer is fine.? If you know of anyone that has open space, please send them my way. Chris spitracer1296 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From apage at prosystembrakes.com Sat Mar 17 08:00:05 2018 From: apage at prosystembrakes.com (Ashley Page) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 14:00:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> <3770D46E-6F0F-4A7D-B538-E22A67F0ADC0@ponostyle.com> <91974D92-7686-4FB5-B906-2181F2BCA1BC@ponostyle.com> VIR in the mid 60?s was packed. Last year I did not go to the IMSA race but the reliable word was ?biggest crowd ever at VIR - even bigger than the 60?s? Don?t look now but the big crowds and incredible high energy is at the Drift events and other such Pepsi generation (or is it millennial) events that you old farts aren?t aware of - ? LOL Get Outlook for iOS On Sat, Mar 17, 2018 at 8:14 AM -0400, "Duncan Charlton via Fot" wrote: Those of you that have been to Pittsburgh Vintage GP have seen the big crowd of spectators there. Duncan On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:09 PM, Bill via Fot wrote: I understand there were venues that had lots of spectators, as there are today despite other distractions. Club racing was rarely that. I sat in the stands with about 60,000 of my closest friends at Ascot Park one night in August 1965 when Kenny Roberts demolished everyone. I remember looking over my shoulder at Watts burning. A month or so later I raced the same event and there were five guys and a dog in the stands.? On Mar 16, 2018, at 9:00 AM, Kas Kastner wrote: Just for the record when I was racing my TR-3 at Santa Barbara the field of cars was over 300 and well past 25,000 spectators each day, lots of college kids. Pomona not quite as many entries but well over 200 and spectators over 20, 000 again.? This was the middle and late 50's, Now there are a lot more things to do so the spectators have drifted away and the cars have worn out and proved to expensive to keep up so they have diminished, but it was GRAND in its day like a lot of old stuff. ? Never be beaten by equipment. On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 10:10 AM, Bill via Fot??wrote: Different strokes I guess. I don?t care what the other cars are as long as I?m having fun. A CRX ruined the aesthetic? How many people were watching the TR3?s run back in the day. I used to go to Thompson and Limerock to watch the sports car races. Me and thirty other people. Sepia toned nostalgia is safe because it doesn?t have to be real.? I know plenty of snobs who just think anyone who isn?t doing what they do is wrong. ? On Mar 16, 2018, at 6:40 AM, Henry A. Morrison wrote: Solipsistic? ? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc.? I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running?? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? ? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field.? Were these ever raced?? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch.? The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field.? Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car.?? I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck.? 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck.? I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them.? Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from?Outlook From:?Bill Sent:?Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To:?Paul Ricco Cc:?Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject:?Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts?I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me.? On Mar 15, 2018, at 2:50 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: Henry, Well put.? We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. ? However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing.? I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for.? We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible.? It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for.? We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage.? Most club racing organizations have made it very simple.? If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it.? It makes things a lot simpler. Paul ?? On Mar 15, 2018, at 5:32 PM, Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: I just can't disagree with this statement more. ?? ???1. Vintage racing is dying.? There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started.? ???2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is.? Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture.? ???3.? how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate.? ???4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season,? Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from?Outlook It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races.? VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable.? The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers.? They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s.? More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing.? Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. ?The same is true of parts.? Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer.? Gear boxes are an example.? I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box.? When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain.? Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures.? Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty.? ?A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. ?There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power).? An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of.? Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long.? Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in.? At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves.? Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. ?Oil.? There is no such thing as cheap racing oil.? Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last.? I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil.? The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends).? Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00.? I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on.? Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. ?My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people.? We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade.? They willalways?be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. ??For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track.? Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity.? Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! ?Ken_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate:?http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:?http://www.team.net/archive Forums:?http://www.team.net/forums _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate:?http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:?http://www.team.net/archive Forums:?http://www.team.net/forums _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate:?http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:?http://www.team.net/archive Forums:?http://www.team.net/forums _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From apage at prosystembrakes.com Sat Mar 17 09:18:19 2018 From: apage at prosystembrakes.com (Ashley Page) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 15:18:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> <3770D46E-6F0F-4A7D-B538-E22A67F0ADC0@ponostyle.com> <91974D92-7686-4FB5-B906-2181F2BCA1BC@ponostyle.com> <5D3076785B8A61C5.44F1F185-52A5-4231-AC8A-44C643A6DC70@mail.outlook.com> Seriously though: the local movie theater in Mooresville NC has a couple of the race driving games in the lobby kids arcade. For years they had NASCAR graphics. At some point in the last year either the graphics were changed or the games replaced but now they say DRIFT. Get Outlook for iOS On Sat, Mar 17, 2018 at 10:46 AM -0400, "Ashley Page via Fot" wrote: VIR in the mid 60?s was packed. Last year I did not go to the IMSA race but the reliable word was ?biggest crowd ever at VIR - even bigger than the 60?s? Don?t look now but the big crowds and incredible high energy is at the Drift events and other such Pepsi generation (or is it millennial) events that you old farts aren?t aware of - ? LOL Get Outlook for iOS On Sat, Mar 17, 2018 at 8:14 AM -0400, "Duncan Charlton via Fot" wrote: Those of you that have been to Pittsburgh Vintage GP have seen the big crowd of spectators there. Duncan On Mar 16, 2018, at 10:09 PM, Bill via Fot wrote: I understand there were venues that had lots of spectators, as there are today despite other distractions. Club racing was rarely that. I sat in the stands with about 60,000 of my closest friends at Ascot Park one night in August 1965 when Kenny Roberts demolished everyone. I remember looking over my shoulder at Watts burning. A month or so later I raced the same event and there were five guys and a dog in the stands.? On Mar 16, 2018, at 9:00 AM, Kas Kastner wrote: Just for the record when I was racing my TR-3 at Santa Barbara the field of cars was over 300 and well past 25,000 spectators each day, lots of college kids. Pomona not quite as many entries but well over 200 and spectators over 20, 000 again.? This was the middle and late 50's, Now there are a lot more things to do so the spectators have drifted away and the cars have worn out and proved to expensive to keep up so they have diminished, but it was GRAND in its day like a lot of old stuff. ? Never be beaten by equipment. On Fri, Mar 16, 2018 at 10:10 AM, Bill via Fot??wrote: Different strokes I guess. I don?t care what the other cars are as long as I?m having fun. A CRX ruined the aesthetic? How many people were watching the TR3?s run back in the day. I used to go to Thompson and Limerock to watch the sports car races. Me and thirty other people. Sepia toned nostalgia is safe because it doesn?t have to be real.? I know plenty of snobs who just think anyone who isn?t doing what they do is wrong. ? On Mar 16, 2018, at 6:40 AM, Henry A. Morrison wrote: Solipsistic? ? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc.? I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running?? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? ? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field.? Were these ever raced?? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch.? The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field.? Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car.?? I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck.? 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck.? I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them.? Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from?Outlook From:?Bill Sent:?Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To:?Paul Ricco Cc:?Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject:?Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts?I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me.? On Mar 15, 2018, at 2:50 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: Henry, Well put.? We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. ? However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing.? I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for.? We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible.? It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for.? We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage.? Most club racing organizations have made it very simple.? If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it.? It makes things a lot simpler. Paul ?? On Mar 15, 2018, at 5:32 PM, Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: I just can't disagree with this statement more. ?? ???1. Vintage racing is dying.? There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started.? ???2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is.? Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture.? ???3.? how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate.? ???4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season,? Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from?Outlook It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races.? VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable.? The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers.? They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s.? More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing.? Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. ?The same is true of parts.? Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer.? Gear boxes are an example.? I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box.? When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain.? Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures.? Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty.? ?A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. ?There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power).? An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of.? Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long.? Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in.? At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves.? Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. ?Oil.? There is no such thing as cheap racing oil.? Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last.? I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil.? The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends).? Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00.? I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on.? Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. ?My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people.? We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade.? They willalways?be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. ??For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track.? Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity.? Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! ?Ken_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate:?http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:?http://www.team.net/archive Forums:?http://www.team.net/forums _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate:?http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:?http://www.team.net/archive Forums:?http://www.team.net/forums _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate:?http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:?http://www.team.net/archive Forums:?http://www.team.net/forums _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Sat Mar 17 18:25:46 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 17:25:46 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Rocker shaft identification Hello Friends, I have a couple TR 2-4 rocker shafts in my stash of parts and I think they might be factory NOS, but have no Stanpart or other identification. I have attached a photo and wonder if anyone can help confirm their origin. Their packaging might be familiar to someone They were nice and tightly wrapped in cardboard sleeves and have a G and A stamped in one end of the shaft. They have no threaded plugs as I have found on the last one I bought. They seem to be quality parts and I'd like to put them to use. Thanks, Dave H. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2638.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 571781 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPad From dlhogye at comcast.net Sat Mar 17 21:29:13 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 20:29:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <1622fbcdc4d-19c2-3b3a@webjas-vab163.srv.aolmail.net> I have at least 10 TR3, no syncro first gear transmissions sitting on a palette in an old barn, if anyone might need one, let me know. No overdrives. The few TR4A-TR6 boxes that I have are keepers with the one overdrive on a TR3 box that was in my TR2. Dave H. > On March 16, 2018 at 9:55 AM fubog1 via Fot wrote: > > The early boxes aren't worth much, they have inherent weaknesses, but the later 6 box is much better, especially for a racecar. > Glen > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Henry A. Morrison via Fot > To: John Hasty > Cc: fot > Sent: Fri, Mar 16, 2018 12:42 pm > Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts > > I wish, they're just old stock non OD units. from TR-3's and probably 6's. I think I have about 5. don't "need" any of them. > > Cheers, Henry > > Sent from Outlook http://aka.ms/weboutlook > > > > --------------------------------------------- > From: John Hasty > Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 6:16 PM > To: Henry A. Morrison > Cc: Kenneth Knight; fot > Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts > > Henry... any of those gear sets you have happen to be the close ratio TR set? I still use one with an A OD & could use a spare..... > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Mar 15, 2018, at 7:45 PM, Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: > > > > > I just can't disagree with this statement more. > > 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. > > 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. > > 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. > > 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. > > > > Have a great racing season, > > > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > > > Sent from Outlook http://aka.ms/weboutlook > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------- > > > > It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. > > > > The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. > > > > There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. > > > > Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. > > > > My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! > > > > Ken > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com > > > > > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Sat Mar 17 22:07:39 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2018 21:07:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees Hello Friends, If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! Dave H. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From keithfiles at btinternet.com Sun Mar 18 05:22:11 2018 From: keithfiles at btinternet.com (Keith Files) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 11:22:11 +0000 Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> Joe Alexander, all round superstar, hearty congratulations for a well deserved honour. Keith > On 18 Mar 2018, at 04:07, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > Hello Friends, > > If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. > > This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. > > Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. > > Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! > > > > Dave H. > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/keithfiles at btinternet.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From clw2000 at msn.com Sun Mar 18 06:16:20 2018 From: clw2000 at msn.com (Chuck WATSON) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 12:16:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> Congrats Joe! That is so cool! Sent from Outlook Mobile. ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of DAVE HOGYE via Fot Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2018 12:07:39 AM To: Friends of Triumph Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees Hello Friends, If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! Dave H. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deweerdm at rogers.com Sun Mar 18 07:03:36 2018 From: deweerdm at rogers.com (Mike Deweerd) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 09:03:36 -0400 Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> Yes Congratulations Joe!!! Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 18, 2018, at 8:16 AM, Chuck WATSON via Fot wrote: > > Congrats Joe! That is so cool! > > Sent from Outlook Mobile. > > From: Fot on behalf of DAVE HOGYE via Fot > Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2018 12:07:39 AM > To: Friends of Triumph > Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees > > Hello Friends, > > If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. > > This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. > > Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. > > Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! > > > Dave H. > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/deweerdm at rogers.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gasket.works at gte.net Sun Mar 18 07:43:57 2018 From: gasket.works at gte.net (Mordy Dunst) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 09:43:57 -0400 Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> Tremendous!! MDunst Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 Fax 626.628.3777 Triple R Munitions, Inc 626.201.9471 T FFL 6,7 SOT 2 On Saturday, March 17, 2018, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: Hello Friends, If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! Dave H. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Mar 18 07:51:49 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 08:51:49 -0500 Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> That's awesome!? Congrats, Joe! Regards, Tony Drews On 3/17/2018 11:07 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > Hello Friends, > > If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to > inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British > Sports Car Hall of Fame. > > This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I > think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed > to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. > > Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high > regard always. > > Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! > > > Dave H. > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Mar 18 08:15:51 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 07:15:51 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <3E8367F5-FCE9-498E-AC56-EFDB5C4A78D0@aol.com> Sent from my iPhone Begin forwarded message: > From: billdentin at aol.com > Date: March 18, 2018 at 7:13:58 AM PDT > To: DAVE HOGYE > Subject: Re: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees > > ABSOLUTELY! > Very well deserved. > Bill Dentinger > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 17, 2018, at 9:07 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >> >> Hello Friends, >> >> If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. >> >> This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. >> >> Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. >> >> Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! >> >> >> >> Dave H. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 18 09:24:21 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 15:24:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> <4f01c70c-7f43-1e2a-1733-237ea5c4174a@tonydrews.com> Wow - that is awesome. Congrats Joe A.! Regards,Bob Lang On Sunday, March 18, 2018, 10:55:17 AM EDT, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: That's awesome!? Congrats, Joe! Regards, Tony Drews On 3/17/2018 11:07 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: Hello Friends, If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. Thanks Joe and...Congratulations!? Dave H. _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Sun Mar 18 09:36:05 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 05:36:05 -1000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <1622fbcdc4d-19c2-3b3a@webjas-vab163.srv.aolmail.net> <89068727.300432.1521343753821@connect.xfinity.com> They pretty much belong in a barn. There isn?t any way I know of to make then handle even the horsepower they are rated if you drive in a spirited fashion. With a later TR4 or TR6 case and some work or a quaife dog box set you have a prayer, but TR3 not so much. I have three or four I?d be happy to give you. > On Mar 17, 2018, at 5:29 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > I have at least 10 TR3, no syncro first gear transmissions sitting on a palette in an old barn, if anyone might need one, let me know. > > No overdrives. > > The few TR4A-TR6 boxes that I have are keepers with the one overdrive on a TR3 box that was in my TR2. > > > > Dave H. > >> On March 16, 2018 at 9:55 AM fubog1 via Fot wrote: >> >> The early boxes aren't worth much, they have inherent weaknesses, but the later 6 box is much better, especially for a racecar. >> Glen >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Henry A. Morrison via Fot >> To: John Hasty >> Cc: fot >> Sent: Fri, Mar 16, 2018 12:42 pm >> Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts >> >> I wish, they're just old stock non OD units. from TR-3's and probably 6's. I think I have about 5. don't "need" any of them. >> >> Cheers, Henry >> >> Sent from Outlook >> >> >> From: John Hasty >> Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 6:16 PM >> To: Henry A. Morrison >> Cc: Kenneth Knight; fot >> Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts >> >> Henry... any of those gear sets you have happen to be the close ratio TR set? I still use one with an A OD & could use a spare..... >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> I just can't disagree with this statement more. >> 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. >> 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. >> 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. >> 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. >> >> Have a great racing season, >> >> Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM >> >> Sent from Outlook >> >> >> >> It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. >> >> The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. >> >> There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. >> >> Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. >> >> My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! >> >> Ken >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >> >> >> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Sun Mar 18 09:38:26 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 05:38:26 -1000 Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> <4f01c70c-7f43-1e2a-1733-237ea5c4174a@tonydrews.com> Wow, how great is that? Well deserved, congratulations Joe. > On Mar 18, 2018, at 3:51 AM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: > > That's awesome! Congrats, Joe! > > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 3/17/2018 11:07 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: >> Hello Friends, >> >> If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. >> >> This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. >> >> Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. >> >> Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! >> >> >> Dave H. >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Sun Mar 18 10:43:07 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 09:43:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <1622fbcdc4d-19c2-3b3a@webjas-vab163.srv.aolmail.net> <89068727.300432.1521343753821@connect.xfinity.com> I realize these old TR2-3 gear boxes are pretty much worthless and I have no use for them. I imagine that they came out of cars at some point for a good reason. I'm not sure if the internal components, gears or shafts have any value anyone either. They may be best for scrap. A few years ago, I rescued a vast collection of TR parts and spares from being scrapped. There were also a dozen engines, that I tore down for component evaluation. In that mix, I found the original engine to my TR3. That alone was worth my efforts. Old TS46871E will live again. It was an interesting mechanical forensic project, determining reasons of failure. So, I have good blocks and a number of standard cranks standing by. DH On March 18, 2018 at 8:36 AM Bill wrote: They pretty much belong in a barn. There isn?t any way I know of to make then handle even the horsepower they are rated if you drive in a spirited fashion. With a later TR4 or TR6 case and some work or a quaife dog box set you have a prayer, but TR3 not so much. I have three or four I?d be happy to give you. > On Mar 17, 2018, at 5:29 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > > I have at least 10 TR3, no syncro first gear transmissions sitting on a palette in an old barn, if anyone might need one, let me know. > > No overdrives. > > The few TR4A-TR6 boxes that I have are keepers with the one overdrive on a TR3 box that was in my TR2. > > > Dave H. > > > > On March 16, 2018 at 9:55 AM fubog1 via Fot wrote: > > > > The early boxes aren't worth much, they have inherent weaknesses, but the later 6 box is much better, especially for a racecar. > > Glen > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Henry A. Morrison via Fot > > To: John Hasty > > Cc: fot > > Sent: Fri, Mar 16, 2018 12:42 pm > > Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts > > > > I wish, they're just old stock non OD units. from TR-3's and probably 6's. I think I have about 5. don't "need" any of them. > > > > Cheers, Henry > > > > Sent from Outlook http://aka.ms/weboutlook > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------- > > From: John Hasty > > Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 6:16 PM > > To: Henry A. Morrison > > Cc: Kenneth Knight; fot > > Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts > > > > Henry... any of those gear sets you have happen to be the close ratio TR set? I still use one with an A OD & could use a spare..... > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Mar 15, 2018, at 7:45 PM, Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > I just can't disagree with this statement more. > > > 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. > > > 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. > > > 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. > > > 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. > > > > > > Have a great racing season, > > > > > > Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > > > > > > Sent from Outlook http://aka.ms/weboutlook > > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------- > > > > > > It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. > > > > > > The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. > > > > > > There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. > > > > > > Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. > > > > > > My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! > > > > > > Ken > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com/ > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://www.team.net/forums > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com/ > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tlizzard at msn.com Sun Mar 18 13:31:18 2018 From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 19:31:18 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <1622fbcdc4d-19c2-3b3a@webjas-vab163.srv.aolmail.net> <89068727.300432.1521343753821@connect.xfinity.com> , <1860530672.195745.1521391388430@connect.xfinity.com> If you ever come across TS 58155E, let me know? Terry Stetler Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of DAVE HOGYE via Fot Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2018 12:43:07 PM To: Bill Cc: Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I realize these old TR2-3 gear boxes are pretty much worthless and I have no use for them. I imagine that they came out of cars at some point for a good reason. I'm not sure if the internal components, gears or shafts have any value anyone either. They may be best for scrap. A few years ago, I rescued a vast collection of TR parts and spares from being scrapped. There were also a dozen engines, that I tore down for component evaluation. In that mix, I found the original engine to my TR3. That alone was worth my efforts. Old TS46871E will live again. It was an interesting mechanical forensic project, determining reasons of failure. So, I have good blocks and a number of standard cranks standing by. DH On March 18, 2018 at 8:36 AM Bill wrote: They pretty much belong in a barn. There isn?t any way I know of to make then handle even the horsepower they are rated if you drive in a spirited fashion. With a later TR4 or TR6 case and some work or a quaife dog box set you have a prayer, but TR3 not so much. I have three or four I?d be happy to give you. I have at least 10 TR3, no syncro first gear transmissions sitting on a palette in an old barn, if anyone might need one, let me know. No overdrives. The few TR4A-TR6 boxes that I have are keepers with the one overdrive on a TR3 box that was in my TR2. Dave H. The early boxes aren't worth much, they have inherent weaknesses, but the later 6 box is much better, especially for a racecar. Glen -----Original Message----- Sent: Fri, Mar 16, 2018 12:42 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I wish, they're just old stock non OD units. from TR-3's and probably 6's. I think I have about 5. don't "need" any of them. Cheers, Henry Sent from Outlook ________________________________ Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 6:16 PM To: Henry A. Morrison Cc: Kenneth Knight; fot Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts Henry... any of those gear sets you have happen to be the close ratio TR set? I still use one with an A OD & could use a spare..... Sent from my iPhone I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ________________________________ It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They will always be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Mar 18 13:44:54 2018 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 12:44:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <1622fbcdc4d-19c2-3b3a@webjas-vab163.srv.aolmail.net> <89068727.300432.1521343753821@connect.xfinity.com> <1860530672.195745.1521391388430@connect.xfinity.com> On 3/18/18 9:43 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > I realize these old TR2-3 gear boxes are pretty much worthless and I > have no use for them.? I imagine that they came out of cars at some > point for a good reason. > > I'm not sure if the internal components, gears or shafts have any > value anyone either.? They may be best for scrap. > Maybe instead of scrap they might find a home with companies that work on or restore Triumphs for people who do not race? Some people who want period correct TR3s might need a rebuilt gearbox. TeriAnn -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjl at gt-classics.com Sun Mar 18 20:09:25 2018 From: rjl at gt-classics.com (=?UTF-8?B?Ui4gSm9obiBMeWU=?=) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2018 22:09:25 -0400 Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> <5F94ECFD-50B5-4B5D-AEC0-D391B1F02DC5@rogers.com> Congratulations Joe! John   On Sun, 18 Mar 2018 09:03:36 -0400, Mike Deweerd via Fot wrote: Yes Congratulations Joe!!! Sent from my iPhone On Mar 18, 2018, at 8:16 AM, Chuck WATSON via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:   Congrats Joe! That is so cool!   Sent from Outlook Mobile. From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of DAVE HOGYE via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2018 12:07:39 AM To: Friends of Triumph Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees   Hello Friends, If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. Thanks Joe and...Congratulations!   Dave H. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive   _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive   -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Mon Mar 19 07:08:25 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 13:08:25 +0000 Subject: [Fot] ATL Fuel Cell WD Deal Morning, If you are receiving this e mail it is because you had responded and or committed to buy at ATL fuel cell for your race car. The time has come to pony up and get the orders done. Please respond to me with the cell part number(s) you want and the payment type. It is easiest for me to accept any Visa/Mastercard/Discover or Amercian Express cards. My contact info is below in my signature, we are on CST and open 8-5 M-F. Thank you for participating in this onetime special deal. It has helped me get what I needed to be an ATL WD and you got a steal of a deal!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image006.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image002.png URL: From alfetta95 at optonline.net Mon Mar 19 07:37:27 2018 From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 09:37:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> Congrats Joe!! Thanks Todd Redmond > On Mar 18, 2018, at 12:07 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > Hello Friends, > > If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. > > This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. > > Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. > > Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! > > > > Dave H. > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alfetta95 at optonline.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From j.wags63 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 19 08:22:31 2018 From: j.wags63 at yahoo.com (John Wagner) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 14:22:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] ATL Fuel Cell WD Deal References: <5376ca2616d046fa898865eabcb258fe@dieselperformanceparts.com> Nope,not me? J Fridirici and me gave up racing two years ago .still have the TR3 for sale. On Monday, March 19, 2018, 8:35:25 AM CDT, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Morning, ? If you are receiving this e mail it is because you had responded and or committed to buy at ATL fuel cell for your race car. The time has come to pony up and get the orders done. ? Please respond to me with the cell part number(s) you want and the payment type. It is easiest for me to accept any Visa/Mastercard/Discover or Amercian Express cards. My contact info is below in my signature, we are on CST and open 8-5 M-F. ? Thank you for participating in this onetime special deal. It has helped me get what I needed to be an ATL WD and you got a steal of a deal!! ? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com ? | ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Mon Mar 19 09:02:17 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 08:02:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: RE: British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> <008c01d3befe$2b8ce160$82a6a420$@gmail.com> -------- Original Message ---------- From: timmmurphh at gmail.com To: 'DAVE HOGYE' Date: March 18, 2018 at 2:14 PM Subject: RE: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees Congratulations Joe, well deserved!! Tim and Ryan From: Fot On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE via Fot Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2018 11:08 PM To: Friends of Triumph Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees Hello Friends, If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! Dave H. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Mon Mar 19 09:02:57 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 08:02:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Re: British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> -------- Original Message ---------- From: Simon Watson To: DAVE HOGYE Date: March 18, 2018 at 1:25 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees Many congratulations Joe ? Sent from my iPhone On 18 Mar 2018, at 04:07, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: Hello Friends, If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! Dave H. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Mon Mar 19 09:03:14 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 08:03:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Re: British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> <85C27F26-A232-49DF-995B-C1F070CD993A@consolidated.net> -------- Original Message ---------- From: Ken Gano To: DAVE HOGYE Date: March 17, 2018 at 10:16 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees A very fitting recognition. Good job, Joe. Ken Gano Sent from my iPad On Mar 17, 2018, at 11:07 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: Hello Friends, If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! Dave H. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From riverside at southslope.net Mon Mar 19 09:11:42 2018 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 10:11:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> <0AE1E379-AA03-4767-B043-E6C02A8B96B4@btinternet.com> You had it coming Joe!! art d. From: Keith Files via Fot Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2018 6:22 AM To: DAVE HOGYE Cc: Irv Korey Subject: Re: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees Joe Alexander, all round superstar, hearty congratulations for a well deserved honour. Keith On 18 Mar 2018, at 04:07, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: Hello Friends, If you haven't already heard, I'd be happy to be the first person to inform you all that Joe Alexander has been inducted into the British Sports Car Hall of Fame. This year's list of inductees includes a who's who of people that I think we would all appreciate and thank for what they have contributed to our special cars and their status in the sports car world and racing. Of course, as a founder of our esteemed group, we hold Joe in high regard always. Thanks Joe and...Congratulations! Dave H. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/keithfiles at btinternet.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7639 / Virus Database: 4793/15492 - Release Date: 03/17/18 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfetta95 at optonline.net Mon Mar 19 09:36:27 2018 From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 11:36:27 -0400 Subject: [Fot] ATL Fuel Cell WD Deal References: <5376ca2616d046fa898865eabcb258fe@dieselperformanceparts.com> <726335619.3202369.1521469351536@mail.yahoo.com> Mark I?m sorry. I don?t know why I received this but I do not need a fuel cell now. Thanks Todd Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 19, 2018, at 10:22 AM, John Wagner via Fot wrote: > > Nope,not me J Fridirici and me gave up racing two years ago .still have the TR3 for sale. > > > On Monday, March 19, 2018, 8:35:25 AM CDT, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: > > > Morning, > > > > If you are receiving this e mail it is because you had responded and or committed to buy at ATL fuel cell for your race car. The time has come to pony up and get the orders done. > > > > Please respond to me with the cell part number(s) you want and the payment type. It is easiest for me to accept any Visa/Mastercard/Discover or Amercian Express cards. My contact info is below in my signature, we are on CST and open 8-5 M-F. > > > > Thank you for participating in this onetime special deal. It has helped me get what I needed to be an ATL WD and you got a steal of a deal!! > > > > > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/j.wags63 at yahoo.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alfetta95 at optonline.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From edunn at transfueler.com Mon Mar 19 12:27:06 2018 From: edunn at transfueler.com (Edward Dunn) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 11:27:06 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Joe Aelxander Congratulations, Joe. Not at all surprised, as you're the real deal in Triumph racing. Ed Dunn -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 19 12:28:29 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 14:28:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Mar 19 12:31:22 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 13:31:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ATL Fuel Cell WD Deal References: <5376ca2616d046fa898865eabcb258fe@dieselperformanceparts.com> I don't think this was intended to go to the entire FOT list... Tony On 3/19/2018 8:08 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: > > Morning, > > If you are receiving this e mail it is because you had responded and > or committed to buy at ATL fuel cell for your race car. The time has > come to pony up and get the orders done. > > Please respond to me with the cell part number(s) you want and the > payment type. It is easiest for me to accept any > Visa/Mastercard/Discover or Amercian Express cards. My contact info is > below in my signature, we are on CST and open 8-5 M-F. > > Thank you for participating in this onetime special deal. It has > helped me get what I needed to be an ATL WD and you got a steal of a > deal!! > > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png > > > > > ** > > > > *Mark Craig > *Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: not available URL: From kknight at klaenv.com Mon Mar 19 13:02:03 2018 From: kknight at klaenv.com (Kenneth Knight) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 12:02:03 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Joe Congratulations Joe! Does this mean we are all going to have to buy you drinks when we see you? Ken -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kknight at klaenv.com Mon Mar 19 13:08:05 2018 From: kknight at klaenv.com (Kenneth Knight) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 12:08:05 -0700 Subject: [Fot] BAT Triumph The Bromg A Trailer auction of the 50% finished TR-4 has ended when the bid of $17,000 didn't meet the reserve. Seems to me the seller needs to get realistic about the work needed to sort this car out. The value of many of those parts, nice though they are, is not that great. My guess is that the owner is way upside down on parts and labor in this shell and not willing to cut the losses. I had hoped one of the FOT folks could have scored this project for a reasonable $ amount. Bet we see it up for sale again. Check it out on BAT Ken -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Mon Mar 19 15:18:05 2018 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 16:18:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: Scott, Agreed. That is why when things have been for sale for 2+ years on every site imaginable, we do not even waste our time bidding on them. This thing has had more turns than a door knob at being sold. We have seen for sale just about everywhere in the last 2 years. I find that dealing with sellers like this is just a complete waste of time. $17,000 is a lot of money for an unfinished project of this sort. It has been heavily modified and will never be viewed at the same value as a truly restored car by the collectors who pay a premium for originality. The surprises are a guarantee. If it were that way to easy to throw it together and go for a ride, the seller would have done it. There is always a reason why people give up on these projects, and they are never telling the entire story when it is for sale as unfinished. No doubt it would be a fun car to drive when finished, but it could be an expensive and time consuming ride to get there. Paul > On Mar 19, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Mar 19 15:23:21 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 14:23:21 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: Depending on who did the work, he may have all of that or more in it. Cost add up pretty quick at $80 an hour... Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 19, 2018, at 11:28 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Mar 19 15:29:47 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 17:29:47 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: <84307B86-3DA0-4781-AA8B-E174EC55E17E@att.net> yep, I was good at $8k. didn?t realize this one has been around. On Mar 19, 2018, at 5:18 PM, Paul Ricco wrote: Scott, Agreed. That is why when things have been for sale for 2+ years on every site imaginable, we do not even waste our time bidding on them. This thing has had more turns than a door knob at being sold. We have seen for sale just about everywhere in the last 2 years. I find that dealing with sellers like this is just a complete waste of time. $17,000 is a lot of money for an unfinished project of this sort. It has been heavily modified and will never be viewed at the same value as a truly restored car by the collectors who pay a premium for originality. The surprises are a guarantee. If it were that way to easy to throw it together and go for a ride, the seller would have done it. There is always a reason why people give up on these projects, and they are never telling the entire story when it is for sale as unfinished. No doubt it would be a fun car to drive when finished, but it could be an expensive and time consuming ride to get there. Paul > > Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Mon Mar 19 16:00:47 2018 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 18:00:47 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: Here's another project TR (a Triumph Pick Up Truck) in Highland, NY. Not mine but close to me if anyone is interested and wants some eyes on it. 1965 Triumph TR4 Pick Up..New Body - $2000 (Highland) https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/d/1965-triumph-tr4-pick-upnew/6522400295.html On Mon, Mar 19, 2018 at 2:28 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be > a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not > take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car > is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. > https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jeff_durant at comcast.net Mon Mar 19 16:08:11 2018 From: jeff_durant at comcast.net (Jeff Durant) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 15:08:11 -0700 Subject: [Fot] ATL Fuel Cell WD Deal References: <5376ca2616d046fa898865eabcb258fe@dieselperformanceparts.com> <726335619.3202369.1521469351536@mail.yahoo.com> Gents, I must have missed this mail regarding ATL fuel cells. Can someone forward the original mail as I?m in need of a new cell. Thanks, Jeff #12 TR6 Jeff Durant 408.221.8659 On Mar 19, 2018, at 7:22 AM, John Wagner via Fot wrote: Nope,not me J Fridirici and me gave up racing two years ago .still have the TR3 for sale. On Monday, March 19, 2018, 8:35:25 AM CDT, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Morning, If you are receiving this e mail it is because you had responded and or committed to buy at ATL fuel cell for your race car. The time has come to pony up and get the orders done. Please respond to me with the cell part number(s) you want and the payment type. It is easiest for me to accept any Visa/Mastercard/Discover or Amercian Express cards. My contact info is below in my signature, we are on CST and open 8-5 M-F. Thank you for participating in this onetime special deal. It has helped me get what I needed to be an ATL WD and you got a steal of a deal!! MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Mar 19 17:41:39 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 23:41:39 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Joe References: <000001d3bfb4$c560a4a0$5021ede0$@klaenv.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Mar 19 17:46:58 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 23:46:58 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From adcronin at mi.rr.com Mon Mar 19 19:20:03 2018 From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Ad Cronin) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 21:20:03 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: <84307B86-3DA0-4781-AA8B-E174EC55E17E@att.net> Rough est of parts value between $20?25k. Very close to my project. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 19, 2018, at 5:29 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > yep, I was good at $8k. didn?t realize this one has been around. > > On Mar 19, 2018, at 5:18 PM, Paul Ricco wrote: > > Scott, > > Agreed. > > That is why when things have been for sale for 2+ years on every site imaginable, we do not even waste our time bidding on them. This thing has had more turns than a door knob at being sold. We have seen for sale just about everywhere in the last 2 years. I find that dealing with sellers like this is just a complete waste of time. $17,000 is a lot of money for an unfinished project of this sort. It has been heavily modified and will never be viewed at the same value as a truly restored car by the collectors who pay a premium for originality. > > The surprises are a guarantee. If it were that way to easy to throw it together and go for a ride, the seller would have done it. There is always a reason why people give up on these projects, and they are never telling the entire story when it is for sale as unfinished. > > No doubt it would be a fun car to drive when finished, but it could be an expensive and time consuming ride to get there. > > Paul > >> On Mar 19, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: >> >> Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/adcronin at mi.rr.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Mon Mar 19 21:48:54 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2018 17:48:54 -1000 Subject: [Fot] BAT Triumph References: <000501d3bfb5$9c2e6b70$d48b4250$@klaenv.com> I checked it out too, 17K is more than I would have paid, though the parts are probably worth that much, I believe he bought the car on eBay and probably paid more than for it than 17K. eBay auctions can go pretty nutty either way. People look at the value of the parts and think someone should pay close to what they would buy the parts for. It?s not reasonable?if you don?t need a RATCO frame you wouldn?t buy it. > On Mar 19, 2018, at 9:08 AM, Kenneth Knight via Fot wrote: > > The Bromg A Trailer auction of the 50% finished TR-4 has ended when the bid of $17,000 didn?t meet the reserve. Seems to me the seller needs to get realistic about the work needed to sort this car out. The value of many of those parts, nice though they are, is not that great. My guess is that the owner is way upside down on parts and labor in this shell and not willing to cut the losses. I had hoped one of the FOT folks could have scored this project for a reasonable $ amount. Bet we see it up for sale again. > > Check it out on BAT > > Ken > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Tue Mar 20 06:09:30 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 08:09:30 -0400 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <1622fbcdc4d-19c2-3b3a@webjas-vab163.srv.aolmail.net> <89068727.300432.1521343753821@connect.xfinity.com> <1860530672.195745.1521391388430@connect.xfinity.com> ?The front bearing retainer on the early TR transmission (the longer one) ?is a good part to use for the Toyota 5 speed conversion. Cut the sleeve from the retainer and it slips over the Toyota trans front bearing retainer and allows use of the TR throwout bearing components. If you are getting rid of your early TR transmission, I will take your part and pay for shipping to me. E-mail me. Thanks On Sun, Mar 18, 2018 at 3:44 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > On 3/18/18 9:43 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > I realize these old TR2-3 gear boxes are pretty much worthless and I have > no use for them. I imagine that they came out of cars at some point for a > good reason. > > I'm not sure if the internal components, gears or shafts have any value > anyone either. They may be best for scrap. > > Maybe instead of scrap they might find a home with companies that work on > or restore Triumphs for people who do not race? Some people who want period > correct TR3s might need a rebuilt gearbox. > > TeriAnn > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhd11 at hotmail.com Tue Mar 20 06:54:35 2018 From: jhd11 at hotmail.com (Joe Henry) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 12:54:35 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Joe Alexander Congratulations Joe! It is great to see an ambassador for the marque and Triumph motorsports be recognized. Joe Downer Charlotte, N.C. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Tue Mar 20 07:44:48 2018 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (JAMES GRAY) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 07:44:48 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: <84307B86-3DA0-4781-AA8B-E174EC55E17E@att.net> Paul, Don't assume the owner was just overwhelmed by the scope of the project. It could be medical or financial reasons. I believe he spent $5K just for a delivered only Ratco frame. I think I can say he has more than the asking price invested since his car is an IRS as is my own and both share similar parts. It wouldn't take much to delete the disc brakes if one insisted on the originals. Personally I feel bad for the guy to have to bail on such a worthy car. As far as surprises go, the normal surprises you won't find on this car are hidden body rot, bondo'd dents hidden frame rot, cracks, worn out suspension components, worn out motor & shoddy work. There is a buyer out there for it, they just haven't come along yet.I hope he gets all the money he's asking for it. jim g > On March 19, 2018 at 3:18 PM Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: > > Scott, > > Agreed. > > That is why when things have been for sale for 2+ years on every site imaginable, we do not even waste our time bidding on them. This thing has had more turns than a door knob at being sold. We have seen for sale just about everywhere in the last 2 years. I find that dealing with sellers like this is just a complete waste of time. $17,000 is a lot of money for an unfinished project of this sort. It has been heavily modified and will never be viewed at the same value as a truly restored car by the collectors who pay a premium for originality. > > The surprises are a guarantee. If it were that way to easy to throw it together and go for a ride, the seller would have done it. There is always a reason why people give up on these projects, and they are never telling the entire story when it is for sale as unfinished. > > No doubt it would be a fun car to drive when finished, but it could be an expensive and time consuming ride to get there. > > Paul > > > > > On Mar 19, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > > > Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Tue Mar 20 07:56:29 2018 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 13:56:29 +0000 Subject: [Fot] British Sports Car Hall of Fame Inductees References: <909663236.191391.1521346059901@connect.xfinity.com> <5F94ECFD-50B5-4B5D-AEC0-D391B1F02DC5@rogers.com>, <201803190209.w2J29Pc3007275@mail56c28.carrierzone.com> Congratulations Joe! A high honor indeed! Cheers, Henry Morrison -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00001.txt URL: From paulricco at att.net Tue Mar 20 08:30:17 2018 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 09:30:17 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: <84307B86-3DA0-4781-AA8B-E174EC55E17E@att.net> <1268731561.193498.1521553488603@connect.xfinity.com> Jim, I hear everything that you are saying. However, I have been in the automotive industry for 32 years as this year. I have been involved in many thousands of deals buy and selling cars. Collector cars and daily drivers. I agree that he has spent a lot on the car and it will be fabulous when completed, if someone takes the time and spends the money to complete the car properly. However, what you have spent on something like this and what it is worth when it is done often have nothing to do with each other. Every car is worth what it worth in the current market conditions, sometimes you have just spent too much and sell at a loss. Even with all the deals that I have done I still get myself in these situations from time to time. I truly know better and I still do it occasionally. We are doing a frame off restoration on a 1964 TR4 right now. It will be fantastic when it is done. Even with us doing a great deal of the labor and all the legwork ourselves, I accept that If sell the car the day it is done, under current market conditions, I will lose money. My comments were centered around the fact that I find it a waste of time to bid on things when a seller is refusing to accept what the market is saying about the item for sale. Someone could be out there who would pay more, but this thing has been for sale for 2+ years and $17K was a strong bid given what is left to be done. There is a cost to waiting years to get more money for something. It is the time value of the money being tied up while it could be used for something else. It is my opinion that if he waits 2 more years and gets $2K more that he has actually lost even more on the car. With all said, we are invested in Triumphs and I wish someone would have paid $100K for it That would have solved my TR4 restoration project's balance sheet. I hope they all continue to bring more and more money in the future. Paul > On Mar 20, 2018, at 8:44 AM, JAMES GRAY wrote: > > Paul, > > Don't assume the owner was just overwhelmed by the scope of the project. It could be medical or financial reasons. > > I believe he spent $5K just for a delivered only Ratco frame. I think I can say he has more than the asking price invested since his car is an IRS as is my own and both share similar parts. It wouldn't take much to delete the disc brakes if one insisted on the originals. Personally I feel bad for the guy to have to bail on such a worthy car. > > As far as surprises go, the normal surprises you won't find on this car are hidden body rot, bondo'd dents hidden frame rot, cracks, worn out suspension components, worn out motor & shoddy work. > > There is a buyer out there for it, they just haven't come along yet.I hope he gets all the money he's asking for it. > > jim g > >> On March 19, 2018 at 3:18 PM Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: >> >> Scott, >> >> Agreed. >> >> That is why when things have been for sale for 2+ years on every site imaginable, we do not even waste our time bidding on them. This thing has had more turns than a door knob at being sold. We have seen for sale just about everywhere in the last 2 years. I find that dealing with sellers like this is just a complete waste of time. $17,000 is a lot of money for an unfinished project of this sort. It has been heavily modified and will never be viewed at the same value as a truly restored car by the collectors who pay a premium for originality. >> >> The surprises are a guarantee. If it were that way to easy to throw it together and go for a ride, the seller would have done it. There is always a reason why people give up on these projects, and they are never telling the entire story when it is for sale as unfinished. >> >> No doubt it would be a fun car to drive when finished, but it could be an expensive and time consuming ride to get there. >> >> Paul >> >>> >>> Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >>> >>> >> > > > >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Tue Mar 20 12:42:08 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 11:42:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: <84307B86-3DA0-4781-AA8B-E174EC55E17E@att.net> <1268731561.193498.1521553488603@connect.xfinity.com> <088E8791-32DD-427D-A6E1-2DB76E816815@att.net> It is my understanding you never pay too much for a car, you just bought it too early. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Ricco via Fot To: JAMES GRAY Cc: Paul Ricco via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2018 7:30 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ Jim, I hear everything that you are saying. However, I have been in the automotive industry for 32 years as this year. I have been involved in many thousands of deals buy and selling cars. Collector cars and daily drivers. I agree that he has spent a lot on the car and it will be fabulous when completed, if someone takes the time and spends the money to complete the car properly. However, what you have spent on something like this and what it is worth when it is done often have nothing to do with each other. Every car is worth what it worth in the current market conditions, sometimes you have just spent too much and sell at a loss. Even with all the deals that I have done I still get myself in these situations from time to time. I truly know better and I still do it occasionally. We are doing a frame off restoration on a 1964 TR4 right now. It will be fantastic when it is done. Even with us doing a great deal of the labor and all the legwork ourselves, I accept that If sell the car the day it is done, under current market conditions, I will lose money. My comments were centered around the fact that I find it a waste of time to bid on things when a seller is refusing to accept what the market is saying about the item for sale. Someone could be out there who would pay more, but this thing has been for sale for 2+ years and $17K was a strong bid given what is left to be done. There is a cost to waiting years to get more money for something. It is the time value of the money being tied up while it could be used for something else. It is my opinion that if he waits 2 more years and gets $2K more that he has actually lost even more on the car. With all said, we are invested in Triumphs and I wish someone would have paid $100K for it That would have solved my TR4 restoration project's balance sheet. I hope they all continue to bring more and more money in the future. Paul On Mar 20, 2018, at 8:44 AM, JAMES GRAY wrote: Paul, Don't assume the owner was just overwhelmed by the scope of the project. It could be medical or financial reasons. I believe he spent $5K just for a delivered only Ratco frame. I think I can say he has more than the asking price invested since his car is an IRS as is my own and both share similar parts. It wouldn't take much to delete the disc brakes if one insisted on the originals. Personally I feel bad for the guy to have to bail on such a worthy car. As far as surprises go, the normal surprises you won't find on this car are hidden body rot, bondo'd dents hidden frame rot, cracks, worn out suspension components, worn out motor & shoddy work. There is a buyer out there for it, they just haven't come along yet.I hope he gets all the money he's asking for it. jim g On March 19, 2018 at 3:18 PM Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: Scott, Agreed. That is why when things have been for sale for 2+ years on every site imaginable, we do not even waste our time bidding on them. This thing has had more turns than a door knob at being sold. We have seen for sale just about everywhere in the last 2 years. I find that dealing with sellers like this is just a complete waste of time. $17,000 is a lot of money for an unfinished project of this sort. It has been heavily modified and will never be viewed at the same value as a truly restored car by the collectors who pay a premium for originality. The surprises are a guarantee. If it were that way to easy to throw it together and go for a ride, the seller would have done it. There is always a reason why people give up on these projects, and they are never telling the entire story when it is for sale as unfinished. No doubt it would be a fun car to drive when finished, but it could be an expensive and time consuming ride to get there. Paul On Mar 19, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Tue Mar 20 13:41:10 2018 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 14:41:10 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Estate Sale 1969 GT6 Race Car FOT, Race Prepared Engine with Accusump, Pancake Filter, New Paint. Owner passed away and it has set for several years. Engines, Transmissions, ancillaries. House is sold and car must go. I can help, if you wish. Car located in Cedar Falls. Should go for very reasonable price. I don?t think my emails get to everyone on this list. Please forward to other FOT. Yes, it was raced by the late Dr. Ceilley. Yvonne passed away recently, and this stuff needs to go. Serious buyers should come and look. I can help with that, too. And we have a place for temporary storage if necessary. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1783612 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From adcronin at mi.rr.com Tue Mar 20 14:02:10 2018 From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 16:02:10 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: <84307B86-3DA0-4781-AA8B-E174EC55E17E@att.net> <1268731561.193498.1521553488603@connect.xfinity.com> Folks The original owner / constructor was a design / build architect and craftsman who got this project to its present state and then endured a very, very difficult divorce, lost almost everything and started over in a new location. The project needed to be sold to cover some obligations from the split along with more?..This was nearly 4 / 5 years ago. I followed the process on several forums, etc. I watched the first motor start up on video. I was caught up in this process as I am doing a nearly identical resto-mod on a TR2 that I owned in the mid 60?s in its original form and later was able to track down and am re-building it like I would order it today if Triumph still existed with custom ordering! I can attest to the fact that emotion often takes over and blanks out the practical aspects of restoring or re-building one?s chosen vehicle. It?s a shame the original craftsman was not able to see his vision to completion and I do hope that one day someone picks it up and continues the journey. I just hope to complete mine before ?they? take my drivers license away! DC On Mar 20, 2018, at 9:44 AM, JAMES GRAY via Fot wrote: Paul, Don't assume the owner was just overwhelmed by the scope of the project. It could be medical or financial reasons. I believe he spent $5K just for a delivered only Ratco frame. I think I can say he has more than the asking price invested since his car is an IRS as is my own and both share similar parts. It wouldn't take much to delete the disc brakes if one insisted on the originals. Personally I feel bad for the guy to have to bail on such a worthy car. As far as surprises go, the normal surprises you won't find on this car are hidden body rot, bondo'd dents hidden frame rot, cracks, worn out suspension components, worn out motor & shoddy work. There is a buyer out there for it, they just haven't come along yet.I hope he gets all the money he's asking for it. jim g > On March 19, 2018 at 3:18 PM Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: > > Scott, > > Agreed. > > That is why when things have been for sale for 2+ years on every site imaginable, we do not even waste our time bidding on them. This thing has had more turns than a door knob at being sold. We have seen for sale just about everywhere in the last 2 years. I find that dealing with sellers like this is just a complete waste of time. $17,000 is a lot of money for an unfinished project of this sort. It has been heavily modified and will never be viewed at the same value as a truly restored car by the collectors who pay a premium for originality. > > The surprises are a guarantee. If it were that way to easy to throw it together and go for a ride, the seller would have done it. There is always a reason why people give up on these projects, and they are never telling the entire story when it is for sale as unfinished. > > No doubt it would be a fun car to drive when finished, but it could be an expensive and time consuming ride to get there. > > Paul > >> >> Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Tue Mar 20 15:42:29 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 17:42:29 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: <84307B86-3DA0-4781-AA8B-E174EC55E17E@att.net> <1268731561.193498.1521553488603@connect.xfinity.com> ?Jim, the chassis is a solid axle, not IRS.? On Tue, Mar 20, 2018 at 9:44 AM, JAMES GRAY via Fot wrote: > Paul, > > Don't assume the owner was just overwhelmed by the scope of the project. > It could be medical or financial reasons. > > I believe he spent $5K just for a delivered only Ratco frame. I think I > can say he has more than the asking price invested since his car is an IRS > as is my own and both share similar parts. It wouldn't take much to delete > the disc brakes if one insisted on the originals. Personally I feel bad for > the guy to have to bail on such a worthy car. > > As far as surprises go, the normal surprises you *won't find* on this car > are hidden body rot, bondo'd dents hidden frame rot, cracks, worn out > suspension components, worn out motor & shoddy work. > > There is a buyer out there for it, they just haven't come along yet.I hope > he gets all the money he's asking for it. > > jim g > > On March 19, 2018 at 3:18 PM Paul Ricco via Fot > wrote: > > Scott, > > Agreed. > > That is why when things have been for sale for 2+ years on every site > imaginable, we do not even waste our time bidding on them. This thing has > had more turns than a door knob at being sold. We have seen for sale just > about everywhere in the last 2 years. I find that dealing with sellers > like this is just a complete waste of time. $17,000 is a lot of money for > an unfinished project of this sort. It has been heavily modified and will > never be viewed at the same value as a truly restored car by the collectors > who pay a premium for originality. > > The surprises are a guarantee. If it were that way to easy to throw it > together and go for a ride, the seller would have done it. There is always > a reason why people give up on these projects, and they are never telling > the entire story when it is for sale as unfinished. > > No doubt it would be a fun car to drive when finished, but it could be an > expensive and time consuming ride to get there. > > Paul > > On Mar 19, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot > wrote: > > Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be > a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not > take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car > is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. > https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Tue Mar 20 17:14:53 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 19:14:53 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ References: <872436F8BDFD4781B7B40C5847197829@Charly> DEEP! Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Tuesday, March 20, 2018, Charly Mitchel via Fot wrote: ? It is my understanding you never pay too much for a car, you just bought it too early. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Ricco via Fot To: JAMES GRAY Cc: Paul Ricco via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2018 7:30 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Bring a Trailer TR$ Jim, I hear everything that you are saying. However, I have been in the automotive industry for 32 years as this year. I have been involved in many thousands of deals buy and selling cars. Collector cars and daily drivers. I agree that he has spent a lot on the car and it will be fabulous when completed, if someone takes the time and spends the money to complete the car properly. However, what you have spent on something like this and what it is worth when it is done often have nothing to do with each other. Every car is worth what it worth in the current market conditions, sometimes you have just spent too much and sell at a loss. Even with all the deals that I have done I still get myself in these situations from time to time. I truly know better and I still do it occasionally. We are doing a frame off restoration on a 1964 TR4 right now. It will be fantastic when it is done. Even with us doing a great deal of the labor and all the legwork ourselves, I accept that If sell the car the day it is done, under current market conditions, I will lose money. My comments were centered around the fact that I find it a waste of time to bid on things when a seller is refusing to accept what the market is saying about the item for sale. Someone could be out there who would pay more, but this thing has been for sale for 2+ years and $17K was a strong bid given what is left to be done. There is a cost to waiting years to get more money for something. It is the time value of the money being tied up while it could be used for something else. It is my opinion that if he waits 2 more years and gets $2K more that he has actually lost even more on the car. With all said, we are invested in Triumphs and I wish someone would have paid $100K for it That would have solved my TR4 restoration project's balance sheet. I hope they all continue to bring more and more money in the future. Paul On Mar 20, 2018, at 8:44 AM, JAMES GRAY wrote: Paul, Don't assume the owner was just overwhelmed by the scope of the project. It could be medical or financial reasons. I believe he spent $5K just for a delivered only Ratco frame. I think I can say he has more than the asking price invested since his car is an IRS as is my own and both share similar parts. It wouldn't take much to delete the disc brakes if one insisted on the originals. Personally I feel bad for the guy to have to bail on such a worthy car. As far as surprises go, the normal surprises you won't find on this car are hidden body rot, bondo'd dents hidden frame rot, cracks, worn out suspension components, worn out motor & shoddy work. There is a buyer out there for it, they just haven't come along yet.I hope he gets all the money he's asking for it. jim g On March 19, 2018 at 3:18 PM Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: Scott, Agreed. That is why when things have been for sale for 2+ years on every site imaginable, we do not even waste our time bidding on them. This thing has had more turns than a door knob at being sold. We have seen for sale just about everywhere in the last 2 years. I find that dealing with sellers like this is just a complete waste of time. $17,000 is a lot of money for an unfinished project of this sort. It has been heavily modified and will never be viewed at the same value as a truly restored car by the collectors who pay a premium for originality. The surprises are a guarantee. If it were that way to easy to throw it together and go for a ride, the seller would have done it. There is always a reason why people give up on these projects, and they are never telling the entire story when it is for sale as unfinished. No doubt it would be a fun car to drive when finished, but it could be an expensive and time consuming ride to get there. Paul On Mar 19, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: Well, folks, even though this seller did not think so, there appears to be a strong market for unfinished projects. I?m amazed this seller did not take the $17,000 high bid. The gap between what?s here and a finished car is potentially a lot of work and some surprises. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1964-triumph-tr4-4/ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Tue Mar 20 21:20:19 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 23:20:19 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Estate Sale 1969 GT6 Race Car References: Hi Joe, about 15 or more years ago I went to church on a Sunday morning. In the parking lot was a car pulling a trailer with a sports car on it; GT6 if I recall. Neadless to say I waited until the owners came out and chatted with them. It was Ed Ceilley and his wife. They were headed somewhere and happened to stop near Erie. Nice couple. I still have his card. I believe Ed died about 10 years ago. Small world. Cheers, Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Alexander via Fot" To: Cc: "Sean Alexander" Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2018 3:41 PM Subject: [Fot] Estate Sale 1969 GT6 Race Car FOT, Race Prepared Engine with Accusump, Pancake Filter, New Paint. Owner passed away and it has set for several years. Engines, Transmissions, ancillaries. House is sold and car must go. I can help, if you wish. Car located in Cedar Falls. Should go for very reasonable price. I don?t think my emails get to everyone on this list. Please forward to other FOT. Yes, it was raced by the late Dr. Ceilley. Yvonne passed away recently, and this stuff needs to go. Serious buyers should come and look. I can help with that, too. And we have a place for temporary storage if necessary. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Joe Alexander > 4505 Donald Dr > Cedar Falls, IA 50613 > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > > From vangoughv at hotmail.com Wed Mar 21 03:31:08 2018 From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2018 09:31:08 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince [cid:2C0E9E6E-B21B-478A-ABF7-A940CC0723D2] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: gt6-roto-replace-cv-axle-set.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 24185 bytes Desc: gt6-roto-replace-cv-axle-set.JPG URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 21 10:06:49 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2018 16:06:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards,Bob Lang On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, 8:44:11 AM EDT, Vince G via Fot wrote: Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? ?It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me.?http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those.? Thanks for any feedback.? Vince _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhassall at gmail.com Wed Mar 21 10:44:31 2018 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2018 12:44:31 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Congrats to Jim Dolan! Amici, Our very own Jim Dolan and his three sons are featured in the May 2018 issue of Classic Motorsports, with their Kastner-Brophy and Group 44 cars featured on the front cover. The accompanying article gives lots of ink to Kas, Lanky, Tullius, et al who were in the thick of the competition back in 72. There is a nice sidebar about Jim and his HARD club in Pittsburgh and another sidebar featuring Joe Alexander and the Kas Cup. Well done to all - this is a great read. jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Wed Mar 21 13:19:40 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2018 19:19:40 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM To: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards, Bob Lang Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13119 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Mar 21 13:40:07 2018 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2018 14:40:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] GT6. Estate Sale FOT I meet with Estate lady on Thursday. I will outline her approach to the sale afterwards and send to those folks who have expressed an interest. It may need to be moved by the 1st of May. I am encouraging folks to come and look, first. It should be regarded as a project car, although it is all together and may have been driven on to the trailer, when last raced. I will try to find out. We have a guest room and transportation if needed. I had 10 years of exposure to this car in the 90s, but none in the past 15 years. Ed and Yvonne were good friends. They are both gone now. I have a list of those that have expressed an interest. If you want your name added or deleted, please let me know. Regards, Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From kkjjk at aol.com Wed Mar 21 17:33:37 2018 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2018 19:33:37 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 I have the Canley set up in a street GT6. It works great. Not sure it's strong enough for racing, though.-- Jay -----Original Message----- From: DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot To: Robert Lang Cc: fot Sent: Wed, Mar 21, 2018 7:10 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Robert Lang via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM To: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards, Bob Lang On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, 8:44:11 AM EDT, Vince G via Fot wrote: Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13119 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vangoughv at hotmail.com Wed Mar 21 18:24:54 2018 From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 00:24:54 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> Thanks Mark I?ve looked at it. It doesn?t solve the outer hub and axle issue. Canley has discontinued anyway. The similar product being offered by wishbone classics That is similar also does not supply the outer hub and short axle and they led me to believe it was sourced from Goodparts as with the full upgrade kits for the TR they source. Vince Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards, Bob Lang Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Wed Mar 21 20:16:54 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2018 22:16:54 -0400 Subject: [Fot] GT6. Estate Sale References: Joe... While I no longer have need for a GT6, your emails bring back many warm memories of Doctor Ed and Yvonne. They were such a sweet couple. Bill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: FOT I meet with Estate lady on Thursday. I will outline her approach to the sale afterwards and send to those folks who have expressed an interest. It may need to be moved by the 1st of May. I am encouraging folks to come and look, first. It should be regarded as a project car, although it is all together and may have been driven on to the trailer, when last raced. I will try to find out. We have a guest room and transportation if needed. I had 10 years of exposure to this car in the 90s, but none in the past 15 years. Ed and Yvonne were good friends. They are both gone now. I have a list of those that have expressed an interest. If you want your name added or deleted, please let me know. Regards, Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Wed Mar 21 20:17:15 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2018 22:17:15 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:19 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards, Bob Lang Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Wed Mar 21 21:51:09 2018 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2018 20:51:09 -0700 Subject: [Fot] the F-1 races this weekend Apparently NBCSN has passed on showing the F-1 races, I found it on ESPN-2 anyone else have some info? *Never be beaten by equipment.* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Thu Mar 22 05:49:18 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 06:49:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] the F-1 races this weekend Yep, happened late in the season last year, wasn't pretty. https://nesn.com/2017/11/david-hobbs-upset-nbc-lost-f1-broadcast-rights-to-espns-inferior-show/ Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 On Wed 21/03/18 8:51 PM , Kas Kastner via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: > Apparently NBCSN has passed on showing the F-1 races, I found it on > ESPN-2 anyone else have? some info? > Never be beaten by equipment. > From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 22 05:46:15 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 11:46:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] the F-1 races this weekend References: Hi Kas - this was announced last year. I found this article on usa today: Formula One to air on ESPN starting in 2018 as part of multiyear deal | | | | | | | | | | | Formula One to air on ESPN starting in 2018 as part of multiyear deal Formula One is headed back to ESPN after the open-wheel racing series' four-year deal with NBC Sports concludes ... | | | I was concerned that the coverage would be different from NBC, but it looks like espn2 will have practice and qualifying too. I found the times on tvracer.com Regards,Bob Lang On Thursday, March 22, 2018, 2:42:32 AM EDT, Kas Kastner via Fot wrote: Apparently NBCSN has passed on showing the F-1 races, I found it on ESPN-2 anyone else have? some info? Never be beaten by equipment. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Mar 22 07:23:17 2018 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (JAMES GRAY) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 07:23:17 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Fot] the F-1 races this weekend References: I've been looking forward to the new season. I'll miss Steve Matchett and David Hobbs but Sky Sports brings Martin Brundle, Damon Hill, Johnny Herbert, Paul DiResta and I can do without Anthony Davidson all together, I'm not a fan, he's still a dirty driver today. They don't broadcast practice like NBCSN but still have quali on Saturday ( early ). jim g > On March 21, 2018 at 9:51 PM Kas Kastner via Fot wrote: > > Apparently NBCSN has passed on showing the F-1 races, I found it on ESPN-2 anyone else have some info? > > Never be beaten by equipment. > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com Thu Mar 22 08:56:02 2018 From: jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com (James J Dolan) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 14:56:02 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Congrats to Jim Dolan! References: J.C. Thanks for the comment. I set this up last fall as part of the promotion plan for the 2018 Kastner Cup at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. Tim Suddard agreed to run the story in the spring issue and include the side bar on Pitt Race and the Kastner Cup. The side bar on the Hartwood racing was a surprise. Folks, its time to sign up the Kastner Cup. This will be a big one at a great race facility. And leave your car for the next weekend in Schenley Park. It is a must do experience. Here is short video of the Group 44 GT6 running 2 practice laps on the Schenley Park course. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCIJLmxSMbc&t=12s Jim Dolan 2018 Kastner Cup Committee From: Fot on behalf of "J.C. Hassall via Fot" Date: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 at 3:50 PM To: Friends of Triumph Subject: [Fot] Congrats to Jim Dolan! Amici, Our very own Jim Dolan and his three sons are featured in the May 2018 issue of Classic Motorsports, with their Kastner-Brophy and Group 44 cars featured on the front cover. The accompanying article gives lots of ink to Kas, Lanky, Tullius, et al who were in the thick of the competition back in 72. There is a nice sidebar about Jim and his HARD club in Pittsburgh and another sidebar featuring Joe Alexander and the Kas Cup. Well done to all - this is a great read. jim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Thu Mar 22 09:12:42 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 15:12:42 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and then rolled 4 times. I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t want failure. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: James J Dolan [mailto:jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM To: Scott Janzen ; DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Scott & Mark. I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England in the spring of 2016. I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, Andy MacLaurin. In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had that had all the machining details. Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems. The Group 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this configuration. Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts and hubs a lot in the beginning and gave up on the normal steels available. In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer axles of my GT-6. It was expensive and hard to find and I bought all in the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or cracking. As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these years. We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. Date: Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards, Bob Lang Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Thu Mar 22 10:47:36 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 16:47:36 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> <453b9226c1214feb8b87514126efa76b@dieselperformanceparts.com> Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA. The U Joint failed. I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets of them break. That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the wheel stays upright. But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough for a GT6 and I am nervous. I really didn?t want to do that as it changes the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on me head again either. Here?s a U tube link to the accident: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05dsw_zQD0k [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and the axle are one piece? Never be beaten by equipment. Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and then rolled 4 times. I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t want failure. Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: James J Dolan [mailto:jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM To: Scott Janzen ; DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Scott & Mark. I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England in the spring of 2016. I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, Andy MacLaurin. In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had that had all the machining details. Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems. The Group 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this configuration. Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts and hubs a lot in the beginning and gave up on the normal steels available. In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer axles of my GT-6. It was expensive and hard to find and I bought all in the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or cracking. As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these years. We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. From: Fot on behalf of Scott Janzen via Fot Date: Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:19 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM To: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards, Bob Lang On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, 8:44:11 AM EDT, Vince G via Fot wrote: Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image007.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image007.png URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Thu Mar 22 11:05:16 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 17:05:16 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> <453b9226c1214feb8b87514126efa76b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4e5cffd321ee42ffac69854b2ba6e562@dieselperformanceparts.com> Sure always need info on anything like that. I sure wish you had some of yours around today!!! I confirmed on that car as best as I could after the wreck that the axle isn?t hitting the frame as it passes over it between the diff and the wheel end. Checked the other cars I got too so far none of them do. I did notice all the frames are crushed in that area and it seems like it was done at the factory too?? [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:59 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Really sorry to hear of this. My axles were made of material which was so costly and hard to find I had to by 500 pounds of it. Then I had the axles forged instead of billet machined. All this does not help you a bit but I can give you a part number a much better and bigger U-joint which we also included with my axles if that will be a help. My research years ago on this was the rear end of the car was bottoming out and putting all the weight on the axle and it just could not hold it. Never be beaten by equipment. Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA. The U Joint failed. I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets of them break. That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the wheel stays upright. But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough for a GT6 and I am nervous. I really didn?t want to do that as it changes the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on me head again either. Here?s a U tube link to the accident: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05dsw_zQD0k [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and the axle are one piece? Never be beaten by equipment. Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and then rolled 4 times. I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t want failure. Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Scott & Mark. I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England in the spring of 2016. I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, Andy MacLaurin. In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had that had all the machining details. Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems. The Group 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this configuration. Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts and hubs a lot in the beginning and gave up on the normal steels available. In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer axles of my GT-6. It was expensive and hard to find and I bought all in the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or cracking. As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these years. We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. Date: Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards, Bob Lang Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: From kenandtweety at yahoo.com Thu Mar 22 12:15:04 2018 From: kenandtweety at yahoo.com (Ken Suhre) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 18:15:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Congrats to Jim Dolan! References: <27130ED5-4DCB-472E-8154-99D25B4D09D2@voyagerhldgs.com> That video put a grin on my face, remembering the time my son Jonathan and I ran that event, I believe in '01. Added to the pucker factor, we had a damp track. As Jim says, it is a must do experience. Just keep your ego set aside and don't do anything stupid. You will never forget it. Ken Suhre On Thursday, March 22, 2018, 10:47:59 AM CDT, James J Dolan via Fot wrote: J.C. Thanks for the comment. ? I set this up last fall as part of the promotion plan for the 2018 Kastner Cup at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. ? Tim Suddard agreed to run the story in the spring issue and include the side bar on Pitt Race and the Kastner Cup. The side bar on the Hartwood racing was a surprise. ? Folks, its time to sign up the Kastner Cup. ? This will be a big one at a great race facility. And leave your car for the next weekend in Schenley Park. It is a must do experience. ? Here is short video of the Group 44 GT6 running 2 practice laps on the Schenley Park course.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCIJLmxSMbc&t=12s ? Jim Dolan 2018 Kastner Cup Committee ? From: Fot on behalf of "J.C. Hassall via Fot" Date: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 at 3:50 PM To: Friends of Triumph Subject: [Fot] Congrats to Jim Dolan! ? Amici, ? Our very own Jim Dolan and his three sons are featured in the May 2018 issue of Classic Motorsports, with their Kastner-Brophy and Group 44 cars featured on the front cover.? The accompanying article gives lots of ink to Kas, Lanky, Tullius, et al who were in the thick of the competition back in 72.? There is a nice sidebar about Jim and his HARD club in Pittsburgh and another sidebar featuring Joe Alexander and the Kas Cup.? Well done to all - this is a great read. ? jim _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Thu Mar 22 12:45:49 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 11:45:49 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> <453b9226c1214feb8b87514126efa76b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4e5cffd321ee42ffac69854b2ba6e562@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4c558cd758744538b042192e5ac7d0c8@dieselperformanceparts.com> Hello Amici, My Mk3 Spitfire came with a set of the original Kastner-Brophy rear axles. They were designed by my car?s owner/builder/driver, Doug Brown who worked for Kas at that time. I found among Doug?s notes, much information and sketches of the design work. I am happy to share them if anyone finds value in the information beyond historical curiosity. As Kas mentioned, it?s a combination of material, forging and ancillaries that make these particular axles nearly indestructible. I have recently refurbished my set. I found the yoke parts to be Spicer parts that are still available. I also did some research on U-Joints and upgraded to a stronger, non-greasable Dana-Spicer unit. This solution is applicable only to the earlier models without Rotoflex or other double jointed later axles. Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 22, 2018, at 10:05 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: > > Sure always need info on anything like that. > I sure wish you had some of yours around today!!! > I confirmed on that car as best as I could after the wreck that the axle isn?t hitting the frame as it passes over it between the diff and the wheel end. Checked the other cars I got too so far none of them do. I did notice all the frames are crushed in that area and it seems like it was done at the factory too?? > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] > Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:59 AM > To: DPPI - Mark Craig > Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > Really sorry to hear of this. My axles were made of material which was so costly and hard to find I had to by 500 pounds of it. Then I had the axles forged instead of billet machined. All this does not help you a bit but I can give you a part number a much better and bigger U-joint which we also included with my axles if that will be a help. My research years ago on this was the rear end of the car was bottoming out and putting all the weight on the axle and it just could not hold it. > > Never be beaten by equipment. > > > On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 9:47 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig wrote: > Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA. The U Joint failed. > I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets of them break. > > That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the wheel stays upright. But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough for a GT6 and I am nervous. I really didn?t want to do that as it changes the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on me head again either. > > Here?s a U tube link to the accident: > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05dsw_zQD0k > > > > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] > Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM > To: DPPI - Mark Craig > Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and the axle are one piece? > > Never be beaten by equipment. > > > On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 8:12 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: > Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and then rolled 4 times. > I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t want failure. > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > From: James J Dolan [mailto:jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com] > Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM > To: Scott Janzen ; DPPI - Mark Craig > Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > Scott & Mark. > I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England in the spring of 2016. > I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. > > And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. > > We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, Andy MacLaurin. > In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had that had all the machining details. > Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems. The Group 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this configuration. > > Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts and hubs a lot in the beginning and gave up on the normal steels available. In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer axles of my GT-6. It was expensive and hard to find and I bought all in the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or cracking. As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these years. > > We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. > > > From: Fot on behalf of Scott Janzen via Fot > Reply-To: Scott Janzen > Date: Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM > To: DPPI - Mark Craig > Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. > > On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:19 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: > > Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang via Fot > Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM > To: FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. > > Else, source something from the UK. > > Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. > > For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! > > Regards, > Bob Lang > On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, 8:44:11 AM EDT, Vince G via Fot wrote: > > > Good day all, > > I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. > http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 > > There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. > > Thanks for any feedback. > > Vince > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Thu Mar 22 13:20:40 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 15:20:40 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 & broken axles This was done in manufacture. I did notice all the frames are crushed in that area and it seems like it was done at the factory too?? "I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets of them break." This is mostly true, he's actually broken 3 of those things. I've done a teardown and detailed inspection on #2, #3, and another unbroken assembly, all well documented. Several points of concern were noted, broken parts were returned as requested. At this point we're patiently waiting for a reply from the supplier... Glen ps- anyone else who has broken one of these axles please send me a note -----Original Message----- From: DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot To: Kas Kastner Cc: fot Sent: Thu, Mar 22, 2018 2:22 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Sure always need info on anything like that. I sure wish you had some of yours around today!!! I confirmed on that car as best as I could after the wreck that the axle isn?t hitting the frame as it passes over it between the diff and the wheel end. Checked the other cars I got too so far none of them do. I did notice all the frames are crushed in that area and it seems like it was done at the factory too?? MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:59 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Really sorry to hear of this. My axles were made of material which was so costly and hard to find I had to by 500 pounds of it. Then I had the axles forged instead of billet machined. All this does not help you a bit but I can give you a part number a much better and bigger U-joint which we also included with my axles if that will be a help. My research years ago on this was the rear end of the car was bottoming out and putting all the weight on the axle and it just could not hold it. Never be beaten by equipment. On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 9:47 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig wrote: Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA. The U Joint failed. I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets of them break. That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the wheel stays upright. But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough for a GT6 and I am nervous. I really didn?t want to do that as it changes the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on me head again either. Here?s a U tube link to the accident: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05dsw_zQD0k MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and the axle are one piece? Never be beaten by equipment. On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 8:12 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and then rolled 4 times. I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t want failure. MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 WWW.DIESELPERFORMANCEPARTS.COM Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: James J Dolan [mailto:jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM To: Scott Janzen ; DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Scott & Mark. I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England in the spring of 2016. I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, Andy MacLaurin. In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had that had all the machining details. Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems. The Group 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this configuration. Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts and hubs a lot in the beginning and gave up on the normal steels available. In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer axles of my GT-6. It was expensive and hard to find and I bought all in the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or cracking. As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these years. We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. From:Fot on behalf of Scott Janzen via Fot Date: Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:19 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM To: FOT Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards, Bob Lang On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, 8:44:11 AM EDT, Vince G via Fot wrote: Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: not available URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Thu Mar 22 13:20:20 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 19:20:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> <453b9226c1214feb8b87514126efa76b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4e5cffd321ee42ffac69854b2ba6e562@dieselperformanceparts.com> <000601d3c20e$67b19ba0$3714d2e0$@klaenv.com> And the Hans, if you do slo mo you see my head snap 2-3 times as the Hans took the load. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Kenneth Knight [mailto:kknight at klaenv.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 1:49 PM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: RE: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 You are very lucky, glad you had the full cage! Ken From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:48 AM To: Kas Kastner Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA. The U Joint failed. I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets of them break. That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the wheel stays upright. But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough for a GT6 and I am nervous. I really didn?t want to do that as it changes the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on me head again either. Here?s a U tube link to the accident: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05dsw_zQD0k [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and the axle are one piece? Never be beaten by equipment. Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and then rolled 4 times. I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t want failure. Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: James J Dolan [mailto:jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Scott & Mark. I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England in the spring of 2016. I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, Andy MacLaurin. In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had that had all the machining details. Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems. The Group 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this configuration. Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts and hubs a lot in the beginning and gave up on the normal steels available. In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer axles of my GT-6. It was expensive and hard to find and I bought all in the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or cracking. As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these years. We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. Date: Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang via Fot Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards, Bob Lang Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 13119 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image007.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image007.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image008.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image008.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image011.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image011.png URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Thu Mar 22 13:23:14 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 19:23:14 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> <453b9226c1214feb8b87514126efa76b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4e5cffd321ee42ffac69854b2ba6e562@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4c558cd758744538b042192e5ac7d0c8@dieselperformanceparts.com> <53B0CBBA-FBAE-4CDB-A36E-667AF459740C@gmail.com> Brad, I think that would make that applicable to Spits too then wouldn?t it?? If so I would want a copy of any info you have. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Brad Eells [mailto:tr4abrad at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 1:46 PM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Cc: Kas Kastner ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Hello Amici, My Mk3 Spitfire came with a set of the original Kastner-Brophy rear axles. They were designed by my car?s owner/builder/driver, Doug Brown who worked for Kas at that time. I found among Doug?s notes, much information and sketches of the design work. I am happy to share them if anyone finds value in the information beyond historical curiosity. As Kas mentioned, it?s a combination of material, forging and ancillaries that make these particular axles nearly indestructible. I have recently refurbished my set. I found the yoke parts to be Spicer parts that are still available. I also did some research on U-Joints and upgraded to a stronger, non-greasable Dana-Spicer unit. This solution is applicable only to the earlier models without Rotoflex or other double jointed later axles. Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone Sure always need info on anything like that. I sure wish you had some of yours around today!!! I confirmed on that car as best as I could after the wreck that the axle isn?t hitting the frame as it passes over it between the diff and the wheel end. Checked the other cars I got too so far none of them do. I did notice all the frames are crushed in that area and it seems like it was done at the factory too?? Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:59 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Really sorry to hear of this. My axles were made of material which was so costly and hard to find I had to by 500 pounds of it. Then I had the axles forged instead of billet machined. All this does not help you a bit but I can give you a part number a much better and bigger U-joint which we also included with my axles if that will be a help. My research years ago on this was the rear end of the car was bottoming out and putting all the weight on the axle and it just could not hold it. Never be beaten by equipment. Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA. The U Joint failed. I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets of them break. That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the wheel stays upright. But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough for a GT6 and I am nervous. I really didn?t want to do that as it changes the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on me head again either. Here?s a U tube link to the accident: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05dsw_zQD0k Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and the axle are one piece? Never be beaten by equipment. Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and then rolled 4 times. I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t want failure. Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Scott & Mark. I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England in the spring of 2016. I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, Andy MacLaurin. In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had that had all the machining details. Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems. The Group 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this configuration. Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts and hubs a lot in the beginning and gave up on the normal steels available. In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer axles of my GT-6. It was expensive and hard to find and I bought all in the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or cracking. As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these years. We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. Date: Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards, Bob Lang Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From britracer89 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 22 13:44:05 2018 From: britracer89 at yahoo.com (Brian Dennis) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 19:44:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> <453b9226c1214feb8b87514126efa76b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4e5cffd321ee42ffac69854b2ba6e562@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4c558cd758744538b042192e5ac7d0c8@dieselperformanceparts.com> Hi,I have a set of the Canely CVs in my hillclimb Spitsix since 2014. The roads I race on are very rough and punishing on the equipment. I also run 9" wide Avon A11 compound slicks. I have not had any issues with the setup. I have purchased sub-pare items from Rimmer Bros. and well you get what you pay for and in that instance I was cutting corners to help the racing budget (although in the long run that cost me a bunch more money than what I saved). So my suggestion is don't compare products from different companies just because on the outside they look the same. I do wonder if anyone has contacted Rimmer Bros. about this issue? In my dealings with Canely (when you can reach them) they have always been interested in seeing the broken part and under what circumstances the part failed. The last time I corresponded with Canely they had not had a single CV failure reported to them. Just my 2 cents. BTY Mark, that was quite the tumble.? Good luck in finding a suitable replacement. What ever product it may be. BrianFoster, RI On Thursday, March 22, 2018, 2:30:45 PM EDT, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Sure always need info on anything like that. I sure wish you had some of yours around today!!! I confirmed on that car as best as I could after the wreck that the axle isn?t hitting the frame as it passes over it between the diff and the wheel end. Checked the other cars I got too so far none of them do. I did notice all the frames are crushed in that area and it seems like it was done at the factory too?? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com ? | ? ? From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:59 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 ? Really sorry to hear of this.? My axles were made of material which was so costly and hard to find I had to by 500 pounds of it.? Then I had the axles forged instead of billet machined. All this? does not help you a bit but I can give you a part number a much better and bigger U-joint which we also included with my axles if that will be a help. My research years ago on this was the rear end of the car was bottoming out and putting all the weight on the axle and it just could not hold it. Never be beaten by equipment. ? On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 9:47 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig wrote: Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA.? The U Joint failed. I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets of them break. ? That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the wheel stays upright.? But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough for a GT6 and I am nervous.? I really didn?t want to do that as it changes the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on me head again either. ? Here?s a U tube link to the accident: ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05dsw_zQD0k ? ? ? ? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com ? | ? ? From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 ? Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and the axle are one piece? Never be beaten by equipment. ? On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 8:12 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and then rolled 4 times. ? I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t want failure. ? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com ? | ? ? From: James J Dolan [mailto:jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM To: Scott Janzen ; DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 ? Scott & Mark. I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England in the spring of 2016. I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. ? And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. ? We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, Andy MacLaurin. In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had that had all the machining details. Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems.? The Group 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this configuration. ? Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts and hubs a lot in the beginning?and gave up on the normal steels available.? In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer axles of my GT-6. It was? expensive and hard to find and I bought all in the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or cracking.? As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these years. ? We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. ? ? From:Fot on behalf of Scott Janzen via Fot Date: Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 ? I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. ? On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:19 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: ? Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. ? | | ? | MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ??? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email:?mark at dieselperformanceparts.com ? | ? ? From:?Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net]?On Behalf Of?Robert Lang via Fot Sent:?Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM To:?FOT Subject:?Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 ? ? Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. ? Else, source something from the UK. ? Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. ? For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! ? Regards, Bob Lang On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, 8:44:11 AM EDT, Vince G via Fot wrote: ? ? Good day all, ? I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6?? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me.? http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 ? There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those.? ? Thanks for any feedback.? ? Vince ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate:?http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:?http://www.team.net/archive Forums:?http://www.team.net/forums _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate:?http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:?http://www.team.net/archive Forums:?http://www.team.net/forums ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Thu Mar 22 14:15:53 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 20:15:53 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Pittsburgh Jim: I would like to make both events; but John?s rig is close to 80? long. While I?m sure it won?t be a problem @ Beaver Run, from the video I?ve seen there does not seem to be any space @ the park. Can you shead any light on this problem???? Sent from my iPhone CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. 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From tr4abrad at gmail.com Thu Mar 22 14:36:22 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 13:36:22 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> <453b9226c1214feb8b87514126efa76b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4e5cffd321ee42ffac69854b2ba6e562@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4c558cd758744538b042192e5ac7d0c8@dieselperformanceparts.com> <53B0CBBA-FBAE-4CDB-A36E-667AF459740C@gmail.com> Guys, Here are a couple of pix of the rear that is just now going back in the car. I will dig up and scan the design documents and share them with anyone who is interested. ? *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 12:23 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig < info at dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote: > Brad, > > > > I think that would make that applicable to Spits too then wouldn?t it?? > If so I would want a copy of any info you have. > > > > [image: http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] > > > > > > *Mark Craig *Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 <(615)%20834-0066> > Fax: 615-834-9923 <(615)%20834-9923> > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > *From:* Brad Eells [mailto:tr4abrad at gmail.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, March 22, 2018 1:46 PM > *To:* DPPI - Mark Craig > *Cc:* Kas Kastner ; fot at autox.team.net > > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > Hello Amici, > > > > My Mk3 Spitfire came with a set of the original Kastner-Brophy rear axles. > They were designed by my car?s owner/builder/driver, Doug Brown who worked > for Kas at that time. > > > > I found among Doug?s notes, much information and sketches of the design > work. I am happy to share them if anyone finds value in the information > beyond historical curiosity. > > > > As Kas mentioned, it?s a combination of material, forging and ancillaries > that make these particular axles nearly indestructible. > > > > I have recently refurbished my set. I found the yoke parts to be Spicer > parts that are still available. I also did some research on U-Joints and > upgraded to a stronger, non-greasable Dana-Spicer unit. > > > > This solution is applicable only to the earlier models without Rotoflex or > other double jointed later axles. > > Brad Eells > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Mar 22, 2018, at 10:05 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Sure always need info on anything like that. > > I sure wish you had some of yours around today!!! > > I confirmed on that car as best as I could after the wreck that the axle > isn?t hitting the frame as it passes over it between the diff and the wheel > end. Checked the other cars I got too so far none of them do. I did notice > all the frames are crushed in that area and it seems like it was done at > the factory too?? > > > > > > > *Mark Craig *Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 <(615)%20834-0066> > Fax: 615-834-9923 <(615)%20834-9923> > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > *From:* Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com ] > *Sent:* Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:59 AM > *To:* DPPI - Mark Craig > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > Really sorry to hear of this. My axles were made of material which was so > costly and hard to find I had to by 500 pounds of it. Then I had the axles > forged instead of billet machined. All this does not help you a bit but I > can give you a part number a much better and bigger U-joint which we also > included with my axles if that will be a help. My research years ago on > this was the rear end of the car was bottoming out and putting all the > weight on the axle and it just could not hold it. > > > *Never be beaten by equipment.* > > > > On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 9:47 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig < > info at dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote: > > Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA. The U Joint failed. > > I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets > of them break. > > > > That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with > the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the > wheel stays upright. But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough > for a GT6 and I am nervous. I really didn?t want to do that as it changes > the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on > me head again either. > > > > Here?s a U tube link to the accident: > > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05dsw_zQD0k > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > *Mark Craig *Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 <(615)%20834-0066> > Fax: 615-834-9923 <(615)%20834-9923> > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > *From:* Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM > *To:* DPPI - Mark Craig > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and > the axle are one piece? > > > *Never be beaten by equipment.* > > > > On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 8:12 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and > then rolled 4 times. > > I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A > Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone > got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 > lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t > want failure. > > > > * * > > > > > *Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN > 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com * > > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 <(615)%20834-0066> > Fax: 615-834-9923 <(615)%20834-9923> > Email: *mark at dieselperformanceparts.com * > > > > > > > > *From:* James J Dolan [mailto:*jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com > *] > *Sent:* Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM > *To:* Scott Janzen <*sjanzen at me.com *>; DPPI - Mark Craig > <*info at dieselperformanceparts.com *> > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > Scott & Mark. > > I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was > me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England > in the spring of 2016. > > I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same > product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were > more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. > > > > And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. > > > > We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group > 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, > Andy MacLaurin. > > In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as > engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had > that had all the machining details. > > Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems. The Group > 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this > configuration. > > > > Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed > using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts > and hubs a lot in the beginning and gave up on the normal steels > available. In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was > prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer > axles of my GT-6. It was expensive and hard to find and I bought all in > the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the > axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so > inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner > bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, > thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original > parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or > cracking. As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these > years. > > > > We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. > > > > > > *From: *Fot <*fot-bounces at autox.team.net *> > on behalf of Scott Janzen via Fot <*fot at autox.team.net > *> > *Reply-To: *Scott Janzen <*sjanzen at me.com *> > *Date: *Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM > *To: *DPPI - Mark Craig <*info at dieselperformanceparts.com > *> > *Cc: *'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <*fot at autox.team.net > *> > > > *Subject: *Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. > > > > On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:19 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot <*fot at autox.team.net > *> wrote: > > > > Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. > > > > > > > > > *MARK CRAIG *Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > > *www.dieselperformanceparts.com * > > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 <(615)%20834-0066> > Fax: 615-834-9923 <(615)%20834-9923> > Email: *mark at dieselperformanceparts.com * > > > > > > > > *From:* Fot [*mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net > *] *On Behalf Of *Robert Lang via Fot > *Sent:* Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM > *To:* FOT <*fot at autox.team.net *> > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > > > Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the > bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. > I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub > carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using > stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub > flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then > work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. > > > > Else, source something from the UK. > > > > Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also > makes a difference in the solution. > > > > For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs > built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I > were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really > excellent parts! > > > > Regards, > > Bob Lang > > On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, 8:44:11 AM EDT, Vince G via Fot <*fot at autox.team.net > *> wrote: > > > > > > Good day all, > > > > I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their > racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which > worries me. > > *http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 > * > > > > There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could > retrofit one of those. > > > > Thanks for any feedback. > > > > Vince > > > > _______________________________________________ > *fot at autox.team.net * > > *http://www.fot-racing.com * > > Donate: *http://www.team.net/donate.html > * > Archive: *http://www.team.net/archive * > Forums: *http://www.team.net/forums * > Unsubscribe/Manage: *http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > * > > _______________________________________________ > *fot at autox.team.net * > > *http://www.fot-racing.com * > > Donate: *http://www.team.net/donate.html > * > Archive: *http://www.team.net/archive * > Forums: *http://www.team.net/forums * > Unsubscribe/Manage: *http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > * > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: IMG_2961.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 521732 bytes Desc: not available URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Thu Mar 22 14:51:58 2018 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 13:51:58 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> <453b9226c1214feb8b87514126efa76b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4e5cffd321ee42ffac69854b2ba6e562@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4c558cd758744538b042192e5ac7d0c8@dieselperformanceparts.com> <779143533.3816336.1521747845720@mail.yahoo.com> Nothing lasts forever so watch the suspension to make certain it does not bottom out. If it bottoms the spring rate goes to an infinate number and sometimes the axle shaft goes with it. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 12:44 PM, Brian Dennis wrote: > Hi, > I have a set of the Canely CVs in my hillclimb Spitsix since 2014. The > roads I race on are very rough and punishing on the equipment. I also run > 9" wide Avon A11 compound slicks. I have not had any issues with the setup. > I have purchased sub-pare items from Rimmer Bros. and well you get what you > pay for and in that instance I was cutting corners to help the racing > budget (although in the long run that cost me a bunch more money than what > I saved). So my suggestion is don't compare products from different > companies just because on the outside they look the same. > > I do wonder if anyone has contacted Rimmer Bros. about this issue? In my > dealings with Canely (when you can reach them) they have always been > interested in seeing the broken part and under what circumstances the part > failed. The last time I corresponded with Canely they had not had a single > CV failure reported to them. > > Just my 2 cents. > > BTY Mark, that was quite the tumble. > > Good luck in finding a suitable replacement. What ever product it may be. > > Brian > Foster, RI > > On Thursday, March 22, 2018, 2:30:45 PM EDT, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > Sure always need info on anything like that. > > I sure wish you had some of yours around today!!! > > I confirmed on that car as best as I could after the wreck that the axle > isn?t hitting the frame as it passes over it between the diff and the wheel > end. Checked the other cars I got too so far none of them do. I did notice > all the frames are crushed in that area and it seems like it was done at > the factory too?? > > [image: http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] > > > > > *Mark Craig *Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > *From:* Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:59 AM > *To:* DPPI - Mark Craig > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > Really sorry to hear of this. My axles were made of material which was so > costly and hard to find I had to by 500 pounds of it. Then I had the axles > forged instead of billet machined. All this does not help you a bit but I > can give you a part number a much better and bigger U-joint which we also > included with my axles if that will be a help. My research years ago on > this was the rear end of the car was bottoming out and putting all the > weight on the axle and it just could not hold it. > > > *Never be beaten by equipment.* > > > > On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 9:47 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig < > info at dieselperformanceparts.com> wrote: > > Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA. The U Joint failed. > > I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets > of them break. > > > > That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with > the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the > wheel stays upright. But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough > for a GT6 and I am nervous. I really didn?t want to do that as it changes > the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on > me head again either. > > > > Here?s a U tube link to the accident: > > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05dsw_zQD0k > > > > > > > > > > [image: http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] > > > > > > *Mark Craig *Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] > [image: > http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > *From:* Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM > *To:* DPPI - Mark Craig > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and > the axle are one piece? > > > *Never be beaten by equipment.* > > > > On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 8:12 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and > then rolled 4 times. > > I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A > Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone > got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 > lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t > want failure. > > > > * * > > > > > *Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN > 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com * > > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: *mark at dieselperformanceparts.com * > > > > > > > > *From:* James J Dolan [mailto:*jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com > *] > *Sent:* Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM > *To:* Scott Janzen <*sjanzen at me.com *>; DPPI - Mark Craig > <*info at dieselperformanceparts.com *> > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > Scott & Mark. > > I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was > me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England > in the spring of 2016. > > I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same > product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were > more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. > > > > And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. > > > > We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group > 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, > Andy MacLaurin. > > In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as > engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had > that had all the machining details. > > Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems. The Group > 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this > configuration. > > > > Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed > using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts > and hubs a lot in the beginning and gave up on the normal steels > available. In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was > prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer > axles of my GT-6. It was expensive and hard to find and I bought all in > the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the > axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so > inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner > bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, > thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original > parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or > cracking. As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these > years. > > > > We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. > > > > > > *From: *Fot <*fot-bounces at autox.team.net *> > on behalf of Scott Janzen via Fot <*fot at autox.team.net > *> > *Reply-To: *Scott Janzen <*sjanzen at me.com *> > *Date: *Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM > *To: *DPPI - Mark Craig <*info at dieselperformanceparts.com > *> > *Cc: *'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <*fot at autox.team.net > *> > > > *Subject: *Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. > > > > On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:19 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot <*fot at autox.team.net > *> wrote: > > > > Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. > > > > > > > > > *MARK CRAIG *Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > > *www.dieselperformanceparts.com * > > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: *mark at dieselperformanceparts.com * > > > > > > > > *From:* Fot [*mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net > *] *On Behalf Of *Robert Lang via Fot > *Sent:* Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM > *To:* FOT <*fot at autox.team.net *> > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > > > Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the > bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. > I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub > carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using > stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub > flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then > work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. > > > > Else, source something from the UK. > > > > Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also > makes a difference in the solution. > > > > For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs > built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I > were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really > excellent parts! > > > > Regards, > > Bob Lang > > On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, 8:44:11 AM EDT, Vince G via Fot <*fot at autox.team.net > *> wrote: > > > > > > Good day all, > > > > I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their > racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which > worries me. > > *http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 > * > > > > There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could > retrofit one of those. > > > > Thanks for any feedback. > > > > Vince > > > > _______________________________________________ > *fot at autox.team.net * > > *http://www.fot-racing.com * > > Donate: *http://www.team.net/donate.html > * > Archive: *http://www.team.net/archive * > Forums: *http://www.team.net/forums * > Unsubscribe/Manage: *http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > * > > _______________________________________________ > *fot at autox.team.net * > > *http://www.fot-racing.com * > > Donate: *http://www.team.net/donate.html > * > Archive: *http://www.team.net/archive * > Forums: *http://www.team.net/forums * > Unsubscribe/Manage: *http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > * > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/britracer89 at yahoo.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: not available URL: From britracer89 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 22 15:11:38 2018 From: britracer89 at yahoo.com (Brian Dennis) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 21:11:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> <453b9226c1214feb8b87514126efa76b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4e5cffd321ee42ffac69854b2ba6e562@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4c558cd758744538b042192e5ac7d0c8@dieselperformanceparts.com> <779143533.3816336.1521747845720@mail.yahoo.com> True and very valid statement.Brian? Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Thursday, March 22, 2018, 4:52 PM, Kas Kastner wrote: Nothing lasts forever so watch the suspension? to make certain it does not bottom out.? If it bottoms the spring rate goes to an infinate number and sometimes the axle shaft goes with it. Never be beaten by equipment. On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 12:44 PM, Brian Dennis wrote: Hi,I have a set of the Canely CVs in my hillclimb Spitsix since 2014. The roads I race on are very rough and punishing on the equipment. I also run 9" wide Avon A11 compound slicks. I have not had any issues with the setup. I have purchased sub-pare items from Rimmer Bros. and well you get what you pay for and in that instance I was cutting corners to help the racing budget (although in the long run that cost me a bunch more money than what I saved). So my suggestion is don't compare products from different companies just because on the outside they look the same. I do wonder if anyone has contacted Rimmer Bros. about this issue? In my dealings with Canely (when you can reach them) they have always been interested in seeing the broken part and under what circumstances the part failed. The last time I corresponded with Canely they had not had a single CV failure reported to them. Just my 2 cents. BTY Mark, that was quite the tumble.? Good luck in finding a suitable replacement. What ever product it may be. BrianFoster, RI On Thursday, March 22, 2018, 2:30:45 PM EDT, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Sure always need info on anything like that. I sure wish you had some of yours around today!!! I confirmed on that car as best as I could after the wreck that the axle isn?t hitting the frame as it passes over it between the diff and the wheel end. Checked the other cars I got too so far none of them do. I did notice all the frames are crushed in that area and it seems like it was done at the factory too?? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts. com ? | ? ? From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:59 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 ? Really sorry to hear of this.? My axles were made of material which was so costly and hard to find I had to by 500 pounds of it.? Then I had the axles forged instead of billet machined. All this? does not help you a bit but I can give you a part number a much better and bigger U-joint which we also included with my axles if that will be a help. My research years ago on this was the rear end of the car was bottoming out and putting all the weight on the axle and it just could not hold it. Never be beaten by equipment. ? On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 9:47 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig wrote: Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA.? The U Joint failed. I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets of them break. ? That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the wheel stays upright.? But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough for a GT6 and I am nervous.? I really didn?t want to do that as it changes the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on me head again either. ? Here?s a U tube link to the accident: ? https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=05dsw_zQD0k ? ? ? ? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts. com ? | ? ? From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 ? Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and the axle are one piece? Never be beaten by equipment. ? On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 8:12 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and then rolled 4 times. ? I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t want failure. ? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts. com ? | ? ? From: James J Dolan [mailto:jdolan at voyagerhldgs. com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM To: Scott Janzen ; DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 ? Scott & Mark. I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England in the spring of 2016. I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. ? And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. ? We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, Andy MacLaurin. In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had that had all the machining details. Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems.? The Group 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this configuration. ? Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts and hubs a lot in the beginning?and gave up on the normal steels available.? In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer axles of my GT-6. It was? expensive and hard to find and I bought all in the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or cracking.? As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these years. ? We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. ? ? From:Fot on behalf of Scott Janzen via Fot Date: Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 ? I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. ? On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:19 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: ? Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. ? | | ? | MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? ? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email:?mark@ dieselperformanceparts.com ? | ? ? From:?Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox. team.net]?On Behalf Of?Robert Lang via Fot Sent:?Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM To:?FOT Subject:?Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 ? ? Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. ? Else, source something from the UK. ? Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. ? For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! ? Regards, Bob Lang On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, 8:44:11 AM EDT, Vince G via Fot wrote: ? ? Good day all, ? I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6?? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me.? http://www.goodparts.com/shop/ index.php?categoryID=20 ? There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those.? ? Thanks for any feedback.? ? Vince ? ______________________________ _________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate:?http://www.team.net/ donate.html Archive:?http://www.team.net/ archive Forums:?http://www.team.net/ forums ______________________________ _________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate:?http://www.team.net/ donate.html Archive:?http://www.team.net/ archive Forums:?http://www.team.net/ forums ? ______________________________ _________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive ? ? ______________________________ _________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: not available URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 22 16:51:46 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 22:51:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] GT6 Axles etc. References: <1874523513.5600944.1521759106247.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi, Dolan mentioned no trouble getting Corvair axles - I've had problems sourcing them. I've been in contact with a local supplier (Clarke's Corvairs) and they seem to indicate that the so-called "rear outer spindle" are as rare as hen's teeth. The inner "yoke" seems the be available, but not the outer spindle - what we might call the outer hub flange. In any case, if you can share part numbers, that would be awesome. Ironically, I've be perusing some of the Corvette suppliers and it looks like those parts are very similar to the Corvair - so perhaps those are the parts you refer to. If specific part numbers are not available, even some info on the fitment would be extremely helpful for some of us. All that said, even though this setup isn't perfect, it's a heck of a lot better than the stock axles on TR6, so that would make the setup ultra-awesome for GT6 and Spitfire racers. Regards,Bob Lang -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com Thu Mar 22 17:17:36 2018 From: jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com (James J Dolan) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 23:17:36 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> <453b9226c1214feb8b87514126efa76b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4e5cffd321ee42ffac69854b2ba6e562@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4c558cd758744538b042192e5ac7d0c8@dieselperformanceparts.com>, <779143533.3816336.1521747845720@mail.yahoo.com> So interesting, these are different items I see. The item that failed on my car was a Rimmer Brothers item. That is clear from the work orders and the shop files. I apologize if I made an incorrect comment about a different product, but I did note mine were from Rimmer. We concluded it was most likely a heat treat problem with my set. Sent from my iPhone Hi, I have a set of the Canely CVs in my hillclimb Spitsix since 2014. The roads I race on are very rough and punishing on the equipment. I also run 9" wide Avon A11 compound slicks. I have not had any issues with the setup. I have purchased sub-pare items from Rimmer Bros. and well you get what you pay for and in that instance I was cutting corners to help the racing budget (although in the long run that cost me a bunch more money than what I saved). So my suggestion is don't compare products from different companies just because on the outside they look the same. I do wonder if anyone has contacted Rimmer Bros. about this issue? In my dealings with Canely (when you can reach them) they have always been interested in seeing the broken part and under what circumstances the part failed. The last time I corresponded with Canely they had not had a single CV failure reported to them. Just my 2 cents. BTY Mark, that was quite the tumble. Good luck in finding a suitable replacement. What ever product it may be. Brian Foster, RI Sure always need info on anything like that. I sure wish you had some of yours around today!!! I confirmed on that car as best as I could after the wreck that the axle isn?t hitting the frame as it passes over it between the diff and the wheel end. Checked the other cars I got too so far none of them do. I did notice all the frames are crushed in that area and it seems like it was done at the factory too?? Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:59 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Really sorry to hear of this. My axles were made of material which was so costly and hard to find I had to by 500 pounds of it. Then I had the axles forged instead of billet machined. All this does not help you a bit but I can give you a part number a much better and bigger U-joint which we also included with my axles if that will be a help. My research years ago on this was the rear end of the car was bottoming out and putting all the weight on the axle and it just could not hold it. Never be beaten by equipment. Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA. The U Joint failed. I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets of them break. That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the wheel stays upright. But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough for a GT6 and I am nervous. I really didn?t want to do that as it changes the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on me head again either. Here?s a U tube link to the accident: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05dsw_zQD0k Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and the axle are one piece? Never be beaten by equipment. Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and then rolled 4 times. I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t want failure. Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Scott & Mark. I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England in the spring of 2016. I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, Andy MacLaurin. In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had that had all the machining details. Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems. The Group 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this configuration. Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts and hubs a lot in the beginning and gave up on the normal steels available. In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer axles of my GT-6. It was expensive and hard to find and I bought all in the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or cracking. As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these years. We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. Date: Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. MARK CRAIG Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. Else, source something from the UK. Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! Regards, Bob Lang Good day all, I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. Thanks for any feedback. Vince _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ https://linkprotect.cudasvc.com/url?a=http://www.fot-racing.com&c=E,1,KxM7P3AkVLkRzqz8GoaCc3JFbOIn0aIA8rVq9rgWinQO6i39wKIG6qdL9A0iENK3JstXOfbNEfD5W-D67HCgyttumxpxRHYMNdEF1sIyoSc,&typo=1 Archive: https://linkprotect.cudasvc.com/url?a=http://www.team.net/archive&c=E,1,dpMd02eYWYZPoJ0Mz3il-2eXINRtgTmdkIkGvNx2Ir-F3hcgV53HSvsJOoYDsB6wcbpA4AB4UQ_V1LuP0gxsMhkwaFRfmIkdkQ7y8gRfchIBhrVx-MwPK-EV9Q,,&typo=1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Thu Mar 22 17:34:43 2018 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 18:34:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 References: <2b813075-26a0-a848-cdb0-6527e8f39d5c@wishboneclassics.com> <636988502.4638180.1521648410002@mail.yahoo.com> <0270eb69bf4e4251ab22a5d1eb28079e@dieselperformanceparts.com> <5264BB67-8313-41BE-B2BC-1936CF6A6955@me.com> <0D2CBCBB-2B6E-48C3-93B4-08C05E58EC71@voyagerhldgs.com> <453b9226c1214feb8b87514126efa76b@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4e5cffd321ee42ffac69854b2ba6e562@dieselperformanceparts.com> <4c558cd758744538b042192e5ac7d0c8@dieselperformanceparts.com> <779143533.3816336.1521747845720@mail.yahoo.com> FYI, Rimmer Bros will have six people at the VTR Convention including one of the Rimmers. La Cosse, WI in July. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 22, 2018, at 2:44 PM, Brian Dennis via Fot wrote: > > Hi, > I have a set of the Canely CVs in my hillclimb Spitsix since 2014. The roads I race on are very rough and punishing on the equipment. I also run 9" wide Avon A11 compound slicks. I have not had any issues with the setup. I have purchased sub-pare items from Rimmer Bros. and well you get what you pay for and in that instance I was cutting corners to help the racing budget (although in the long run that cost me a bunch more money than what I saved). So my suggestion is don't compare products from different companies just because on the outside they look the same. > > I do wonder if anyone has contacted Rimmer Bros. about this issue? In my dealings with Canely (when you can reach them) they have always been interested in seeing the broken part and under what circumstances the part failed. The last time I corresponded with Canely they had not had a single CV failure reported to them. > > Just my 2 cents. > > BTY Mark, that was quite the tumble. > > Good luck in finding a suitable replacement. What ever product it may be. > > Brian > Foster, RI > > On Thursday, March 22, 2018, 2:30:45 PM EDT, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: > > > Sure always need info on anything like that. > > I sure wish you had some of yours around today!!! > > I confirmed on that car as best as I could after the wreck that the axle isn?t hitting the frame as it passes over it between the diff and the wheel end. Checked the other cars I got too so far none of them do. I did notice all the frames are crushed in that area and it seems like it was done at the factory too?? > > > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] > Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:59 AM > To: DPPI - Mark Craig > Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > Really sorry to hear of this. My axles were made of material which was so costly and hard to find I had to by 500 pounds of it. Then I had the axles forged instead of billet machined. All this does not help you a bit but I can give you a part number a much better and bigger U-joint which we also included with my axles if that will be a help. My research years ago on this was the rear end of the car was bottoming out and putting all the weight on the axle and it just could not hold it. > > > Never be beaten by equipment. > > > > On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 9:47 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig wrote: > > Yes they were Sommers Bros out of CA. The U Joint failed. > > I hear the Joe Siam ones are breaking too. A friend in FL has had two sets of them break. > > > > That?s why when I started to rebuild the wreck I thought I would go with the Canley CV axles and the GT6 lower arms. At least if the axle breaks the wheel stays upright. But now I hear the Canley CV axle isn?t strong enough for a GT6 and I am nervous. I really didn?t want to do that as it changes the ?Attitude? of the Spit and how it feels, but I don?t want to end up on me head again either. > > > > Here?s a U tube link to the accident: > > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05dsw_zQD0k > > > > > > > > > > > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > From: Kas Kastner [mailto:kaskastner at gmail.com] > Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 11:29 AM > To: DPPI - Mark Craig > Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > Are you using or rather were you using one piece axles where the hub and the axle are one piece? > > > Never be beaten by equipment. > > > > On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 8:12 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: > > Hum, I got a set of the Canley CVs for the Spit that broke an axle and then rolled 4 times. > > I have that car almost in one piece again and now you got me cautious?? A Spit vs GT6 is a lot of difference in weight and engine load though. Anyone got any thoughts?? I don?t want to go for that ride again. I am adding GT6 lower arms to keep the wheel form getting under the car, but still don?t want failure. > > > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > From: James J Dolan [mailto:jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com] > Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2018 9:38 AM > To: Scott Janzen ; DPPI - Mark Craig > Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > Scott & Mark. > > I looked at my records and we show the CV joints that failed (yes it was me in the 5 laps) we purchased were from Rimmer Brothers (sp?) in England in the spring of 2016. > > I can?t tell if they are the same guys or were resellers of the same product, but they looked identical to these units and I doubt there were more than one manufacturer of these in 2016. > > > > And yes they failed, so I would NOT recommend for racing. > > > > We compared the rear end system on our Kastner 1972 GT6 #6 and the Group 44 1972 GT6 and reviewed the whole history with Kas, Scott, Craig Miller, Andy MacLaurin. > > In the end we converted the Group 44 car to the Corvair Datsun solution as engineered in 1971 based on a set of engineering drawings Craig Miller had that had all the machining details. > > Since that installation in Sept 2016 we have had no problems. The Group 44 car runs a Quaife diff with Redline Shockproof 75W90 gear oil with this configuration. > > > > Kas? 1972 GT6 runs a different outer hub configuration he constructed using Vascojet steel. Here is Kas?s note from 2016 ?We broke axle shafts and hubs a lot in the beginning and gave up on the normal steels available. In the end I purchased a load of Vascojet steel that was prescribed by steel engineers to me, this is what is used in the outer axles of my GT-6. It was expensive and hard to find and I bought all in the USA at the time about 200 pounds. I paid for forging dies and had the axles forged from this material. Now this was almost 50 years ago so inquiry of steels might be a hot tip.? Kas? solution provides an inner bearing retainer flange and nut at the hub carrier side of the axle, thereby preventing wheel loss in a failure. That car runs his original parts from 1972 and our last magnaflux shows no signs of failure or cracking. As he says, Never Beaten by Equipment, even after all these years. > > > > We had no trouble sourcing Corvair parts and GM bearings. > > > > > > From: Fot on behalf of Scott Janzen via Fot > Reply-To: Scott Janzen > Date: Thursday, March 22, 2018 at 2:10 AM > To: DPPI - Mark Craig > Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph > > > Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > I?ve seen one of those break after five laps in a GT6. > > > > On Mar 21, 2018, at 3:19 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: > > > > Canley in England has a CV axle set up for the Spits and GT6. > > > > > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > > > > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang via Fot > Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 11:07 AM > To: FOT > Subject: Re: [Fot] Rear Axle upgrade GT6 > > > > > > Vince - I'm not sure that the TR6 axles would fit your GT6 because the bearing carrier for the Herald-based cars is a lot smaller than the TR6 is. I suppose you could make it fit, but you'd have to make a custom hub carrier. That said, I know that folks have done various solutions using stub axles from cars like the 240Z. The "trick" would be to find a hub flange that can be drilled for the Spitfire / GT6 bolt pattern and then work from there. And you can get brand-new stub axles for the 240/260/280Z. > > > > Else, source something from the UK. > > > > Also - do you have a GT6 Mk 2 or the early or late-late setup? That also makes a difference in the solution. > > > > For my TR6, I run Corvair hubs like Group 44 did. But I had those hubs built up about 20 years ago - the Corvair parts are pretty scarce now. If I were to build a new car, I'd def. buy the Goodparts setup - he makes really excellent parts! > > > > Regards, > > Bob Lang > > On Wednesday, March 21, 2018, 8:44:11 AM EDT, Vince G via Fot wrote: > > > > > > Good day all, > > > > I am wondering if anyone has tried John Goods Axle conversion kit on their racing GT6? It is a CV conversion but doesn?t replace the Hub which worries me. > > http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20 > > > > There are sturdier more complete TR6 kits but I?m not sure I could retrofit one of those. > > > > Thanks for any feedback. > > > > Vince > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britracer89 at yahoo.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Mar 23 09:32:32 2018 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2018 08:32:32 -0700 Subject: [Fot] pricing a fires suppression system?? I recently placed an unused Halon fire suppression system made by R.J.S. Racing Equipment on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/292494770407?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 I have absolutely no idea as to its value and may have priced it too high. Any thought of what might be a realistic starting bid? Thanks, TeriAnn -- Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Mar 24 13:36:53 2018 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2018 19:36:53 +0000 Subject: [Fot] WHEEL STUDS Looking for a source/part number for 7/16 wheel studs with a .512 knurl diameter. Somewhere around 2-1/2 long. Flat head, not the tapered head. The internet has failed me so far. Thanks, Marty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From apage at prosystembrakes.com Sat Mar 24 14:28:31 2018 From: apage at prosystembrakes.com (Ashley Page) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2018 20:28:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] WHEEL STUDS References: I may have them - will look Monday when back at shop. We sell wheel studs and lug nuts into all forms of pro racing and have a good selection. Could you use 12mm? Also have lug nuts. They are expensive - $14 each or there about. Are they for a steel or aluminum hub? Get Outlook for iOS On Sat, Mar 24, 2018 at 3:52 PM -0400, "marty via Fot" wrote: Looking for a source/part number for 7/16 wheel studs with a .512 knurl diameter. Somewhere around 2-1/2 long. Flat head, not the tapered head. The internet has failed me so far. Thanks, Marty -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Sat Mar 24 17:18:39 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2018 18:18:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] WHEEL STUDS Marty, Have you tried here? http://arp-bolts.com/kits/product.php?PL=55 Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 On Sat 24/03/18 12:36 PM , marty via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: > Looking for a source/part number for 7/16 wheel studs with a .512 > knurl diameter. Somewhere around 2-1/2 long. Flat head, not the > tapered head. The internet has failed me so far. > Thanks, > > Marty > > From triosan at gmail.com Sun Mar 25 18:25:15 2018 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2018 17:25:15 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR 6 cylinder camshaft stamped D9 - what is it? i cannot find a similar one listed anywhere. Do want to sell it. I used it inmy hot rodded street TR6, but have lost the specs. Only D9 I see now is for the four cylinder engine. Any help greaty appreciated. will sell for $50 -- pictures on request. Thanks, Chuck Arnold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From unv at psu.edu Mon Mar 26 15:32:23 2018 From: unv at psu.edu (DANIEL L STYDUHAR) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 17:32:23 -0400 Subject: [Fot] The passing of Bill Emery References: <4C30B773-9E43-45EF-83A3-7D4421BECE55@voyagerhldgs.com> It is with great sadness that I inform the FOT community of the passing of William R. ?Bill? Emery of Mt. Lebanon, Pennsylvania, on February 17th, 2018. Many of you will not know who Bill was as he ran only in SCCA F and E Production. His 1959 TR3A was first entered in hill climbs in the early 1960?s, some of those being the ?Old Smokey Hill Climbs?. Bill subsequently began road racing the car in 1964 and ended his forty-four year racing career in 2008 at Nelson Ledges Race Course, his home course, in the same car. Bill also raced on several road courses which do not exist today: Marlboro and Cumberland. Bill often talked of getting into vintage racing which would have required returning the car to its early years of racing configuration. One of the final morphs of the car can be seen on the FOT website under Triumph Racecars TR2-TR3 section. Bill?s racing undertaking was self financed. Being a mechanical engineer, he maintained, trailered, and drove the Triumph. At one point in time Bill was one of the actors in a television series titled ?Thirty Minutes? similar in format to the program known as ?Sixty Minutes?. The particular episode was titled ?Life in the Fast Lane? which was filmed during ?The Cumberland National? at Nelson Ledges. One of the other actors in the program was Chip Ganassi. I was very fortunate to have crewed and wrenched for Bill during the latter years of his racing career. 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URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Mar 26 22:55:28 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2018 21:55:28 -0700 Subject: [Fot] International Motor Racing Research Center Amici, If you like I, may not have received log books with your treasured vintage racer, don't despair a research opportunity is available! I contacted the SCCA national office inquiring what records they may have for my car and driver. They referred me to the International Motor Racing Research Center. They have a huge archive of motor racing records, newsletters, magazines and results sheets. I sent an Email to Archivist Jenny Ambrose with the information I had for the car and the driver. A few weeks later, I received a Dropbox link that contained several references and results...jackpot! I was able to document several more races and results and have determined (to date) that my car entered 44 races from 1970-76...and won an incredible 19 of them. That's a pretty decent winning percentage! You can contact Jenny here: jenny at racingarchives.org The website is here: http://www.racingarchives.org/ The service is complimentary but of course, they encourage a donation. You may also consider donating any of your old paper records to help others with their quest to research a car history. Cheers, Brad *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jeff_durant at comcast.net Tue Mar 27 11:11:35 2018 From: jeff_durant at comcast.net (Jeff Durant) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 10:11:35 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR 6 cylinder camshaft stamped D9 - what is it? References: Hi Chuck, I believe the D9 cam you mention is a Kent grind. See the specs on the chart below. Regards, Jeff Durant 408.221.8659 On Mar 25, 2018, at 5:25 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot wrote: i cannot find a similar one listed anywhere. Do want to sell it. I used it inmy hot rodded street TR6, but have lost the specs. Only D9 I see now is for the four cylinder engine. Any help greaty appreciated. will sell for $50 -- pictures on request. Thanks, Chuck Arnold _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.png Type: image/png Size: 139175 bytes Desc: not available URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Tue Mar 27 11:25:38 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 10:25:38 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR 6 cylinder camshaft stamped D9 - what is it? References: I'm not sure where it originated, but Delta Cam does them. I use them in my race car and a couple other British cars. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Durant via Fot To: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley Cc: Triumph ; Friends Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2018 10:11 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR 6 cylinder camshaft stamped D9 - what is it? Hi Chuck, I believe the D9 cam you mention is a Kent grind. See the specs on the chart below. Regards, Jeff Durant 408.221.8659 On Mar 25, 2018, at 5:25 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot wrote: i cannot find a similar one listed anywhere. Do want to sell it. I used it inmy hot rodded street TR6, but have lost the specs. Only D9 I see now is for the four cylinder engine. Any help greaty appreciated. will sell for $50 -- pictures on request. Thanks, Chuck Arnold _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jeff_durant at comcast.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.png Type: image/png Size: 139175 bytes Desc: not available URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 27 13:23:34 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 19:23:34 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Mallory Distributors Hey Membership, Looking for the top part (approx. 1/3) of the shaft in the Mallory single or dual point distributors. I got some Unilite ones that I need to change the top portion of the shaft from the points type to get the cam lobe that operates the points. Sometimes called the points rubbing block. Anyone???? [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Mar 27 14:00:55 2018 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 15:00:55 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Competition Valve Cover Fastener-Redesign Introduction of new Design. The Triumph Factory made up some knurled aluminum valve cover fasteners in the 50s for their competition cars. Allows quick remove and replace of valve covers. We added an O ring seal feature for oil control in the design. The first configuration is generic to most TR models, the second configuration is dedicated to the TR6 with engraving and lacquer fill. Looks good, too. Accepting orders with no charge for shipping to FOT. Shipping starts next week. Offer good for one week...until next Tuesday. $15 each Fastener for generic TR. (except GT6) $20 each fastener for TR6 PayPal = n197tr4 at cs.com Might be a good time to get the reusable silicone gasket that is superior in sealing. Discounted to $15.....regardless of model. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1730007 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Or available at Moss, very soon. Thanks, 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Tue Mar 27 15:34:27 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 21:34:27 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Competition Valve Cover Fastener-Redesign References: <492EAD5F-30E1-4E63-8971-6497FD53A27D@cs.com> Joe, Will they fit the stud, and clear the bonnet on a Spit?? [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Alexander via Fot Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2018 3:01 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Competition Valve Cover Fastener-Redesign Introduction of new Design. The Triumph Factory made up some knurled aluminum valve cover fasteners in the 50s for their competition cars. Allows quick remove and replace of valve covers. We added an O ring seal feature for oil control in the design. The first configuration is generic to most TR models, the second configuration is dedicated to the TR6 with engraving and lacquer fill. Looks good, too. Accepting orders with no charge for shipping to FOT. Shipping starts next week. Offer good for one week...until next Tuesday. $15 each Fastener for generic TR. (except GT6) $20 each fastener for TR6 Might be a good time to get the reusable silicone gasket that is superior in sealing. Discounted to $15.....regardless of model. [cid:image006.jpg at 01D3C5E9.783FDF20] Or available at Moss, very soon. Thanks, 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image006.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1730007 bytes Desc: image006.jpg URL: From rek46 at aol.com Tue Mar 27 15:54:06 2018 From: rek46 at aol.com (Richard Kristoff) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 17:54:06 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Competition Valve Cover Fastener-Redesign References: <492EAD5F-30E1-4E63-8971-6497FD53A27D@cs.com> I have some knurled keepers....and the silicone gaskets are awesome...both flat and recess type....great for racing,no leaks...last forever....Rick ? In a message dated 3/27/2018 5:24:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: ? Introduction of new Design. The Triumph Factory made up some knurled aluminum valve cover fasteners in the 50s for their competition cars. Allows quick remove and replace of valve covers. We added an O ring seal feature for oil control in the design. The first configuration is generic to most TR models, the second configuration is dedicated to the TR6 with engraving and lacquer fill. Looks good, too. Accepting orders with no charge for shipping to FOT. Shipping starts next week. Offer good for one week...until next Tuesday. $15 each Fastener for generic TR. (except GT6) $20 each fastener for TR6 PayPal = n197tr4 at cs.com Might be a good time to get the reusable silicone gasket that is superior in sealing. Discounted to $15.....regardless of model. Or available at Moss, very soon. Thanks, 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano at yahoo.com Tue Mar 27 15:59:40 2018 From: bschirano at yahoo.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 21:59:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Competition Valve Cover Fastener-Redesign References: <492EAD5F-30E1-4E63-8971-6497FD53A27D@cs.com> Hi Joe - why would these not work on a GT6? 26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell? BSchirano at yahoo.com On Tuesday, March 27, 2018, 5:03:03 PM EDT, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: Introduction of new Design. The Triumph Factory made up some knurled aluminum valve cover fasteners in the 50s for their competition cars. Allows quick remove and replace of valve covers. We added an O ring seal feature for oil control in the design. The first configuration is generic to most TR models, the second configuration is dedicated to the TR6 with engraving and lacquer fill.? Looks good, too. Accepting orders with no charge for shipping to FOT. Shipping starts next week. Offer good for one week...until next Tuesday. $15 each Fastener for generic TR.? (except GT6) $20 each fastener for TR6 PayPal = n197tr4 at cs.com Might be a good time to get the reusable silicone gasket that is superior in sealing.? Discounted to $15.....regardless of model. Or available at Moss, very soon. Thanks, 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 Gasketinnovations.com Cell:? 319.464.4711_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 27 16:20:02 2018 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 22:20:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] International Motor Racing Research Center References: Hi Brad.? Is this the organization located in Watkins Glen, NY.? I know there is an organization there with a name similar to this.? Thanks. Jack On Tuesday, March 27, 2018, 1:38:07 AM EDT, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: Amici, If you like I, may not have received log books with your treasured vintage racer, don't despair a research opportunity is available! I contacted the SCCA national office inquiring what records they may have for my car and driver. They referred me to the International Motor Racing Research Center. They have a huge archive of motor racing records, newsletters, magazines and results sheets. I sent an Email to Archivist Jenny Ambrose with the information I had for the car and the driver. A few weeks later, I received a Dropbox link that contained several references and results...jackpot! I was able to document several more races and results and have determined (to date) that my car entered 44 races from 1970-76...and won an incredible 19 of them. That's a pretty decent winning percentage! You can contact Jenny here:?jenny at racingarchives.org The website is here:?http://www.racingarchives.org/ The service is complimentary but of course, they encourage a donation. You may also consider donating any of your old paper records to help others with their quest to research a car history. Cheers, Brad Brad EellsChino CA#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk31965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road! _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Mar 27 17:08:13 2018 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 18:08:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Competition Valve Cover Fastener-Redesign References: <492EAD5F-30E1-4E63-8971-6497FD53A27D@cs.com> <39a8dc3106c74d6693a6b8a90d43978b@dieselperformanceparts.com> Yes, on the Spitfire, but not the front one on a GT6. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 27, 2018, at 4:34 PM, DPPI - Mark Craig wrote: > > Joe, > > Will they fit the stud, and clear the bonnet on a Spit?? > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 > Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Alexander via Fot > Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2018 3:01 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] Competition Valve Cover Fastener-Redesign > > Introduction of new Design. > > The Triumph Factory made up some knurled aluminum valve cover fasteners in the 50s for their competition cars. Allows quick remove and replace of valve covers. We added an O ring seal feature for oil control in the design. > > The first configuration is generic to most TR models, the second configuration is dedicated to the TR6 with engraving and lacquer fill. Looks good, too. > > Accepting orders with no charge for shipping to FOT. Shipping starts next week. Offer good for one week...until next Tuesday. > $15 each Fastener for generic TR. (except GT6) > $20 each fastener for TR6 > > PayPal = n197tr4 at cs.com > > Might be a good time to get the reusable silicone gasket that is superior in sealing. Discounted to $15.....regardless of model. > > > > > > Or available at Moss, very soon. > > Thanks, > > 4505 Donald Dr > Cedar Falls, IA 50613 > > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/info at dieselperformanceparts.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Mar 27 17:34:59 2018 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 18:34:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Competition Valve Cover Fastener-Redesign References: <492EAD5F-30E1-4E63-8971-6497FD53A27D@cs.com> <162697430ad-179d-1f60@webjas-vae195.srv.aolmail.net> Thank you. The silicone gaskets are amazing. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 27, 2018, at 4:54 PM, Richard Kristoff wrote: > > I have some knurled keepers....and the silicone gaskets are awesome...both flat and recess type....great for racing,no leaks...last forever....Rick > > In a message dated 3/27/2018 5:24:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes: > > Introduction of new Design. > > The Triumph Factory made up some knurled aluminum valve cover fasteners in the 50s for their competition cars. Allows quick remove and replace of valve covers. We added an O ring seal feature for oil control in the design. > > The first configuration is generic to most TR models, the second configuration is dedicated to the TR6 with engraving and lacquer fill. Looks good, too. > > Accepting orders with no charge for shipping to FOT. Shipping starts next week. Offer good for one week...until next Tuesday. > $15 each Fastener for generic TR. (except GT6) > $20 each fastener for TR6 > > PayPal = n197tr4 at cs.com > > Might be a good time to get the reusable silicone gasket that is superior in sealing. Discounted to $15.....regardless of model. > > > > > Or available at Moss, very soon. > > Thanks, > > 4505 Donald Dr > Cedar Falls, IA 50613 > > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Wed Mar 28 06:20:38 2018 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2018 07:20:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Valve Cover Fasteners. Wilen Inspired Friends, FOT Alexandre Camoletti sent me a message from Switzerland. He is rightfully correcting me on the origins of the valve cover fasteners. My inspiration for the design actually came from ?Wilen?, who produced not only the valve cover fasteners, but the valve cover, which features lateral heat sinks. Now I am trying to find out more history on the ?Wilen?. Company. This may be far more interesting. I have never heard of Wilen. Perhaps others have? Anyway, Alexandre produced some to exacting dimensions. He also sent me the drawings. While I plan to stay the course on our design features, I want to set the history straight. Thanks and much thanks to Alexandre. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From hpspitfire at gmail.com Wed Mar 28 07:27:57 2018 From: hpspitfire at gmail.com (Aaron Johnson) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2018 09:27:57 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Valve Cover Fasteners. References: <2CE707AF-BD42-4BEC-A34F-5C8E95169549@gmail.com> I manufactured some aluminum knurled ones with a groove in the bottom for an o-ring to help with leaking out of the cover. Can make them for a nominal fee for anyone else now that I?m back in the states. Aaron Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 28, 2018, at 8:20 AM, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > > Friends, > > FOT Alexandre Camoletti sent me a message from Switzerland. > > He is rightfully correcting me on the origins of the valve cover fasteners. > > My inspiration for the design actually came from ?Wilen?, who produced not only the valve cover fasteners, but the valve cover, which features lateral heat sinks. > > Now I am trying to find out more history on the ?Wilen?. Company. This may be far more interesting. I have never heard of Wilen. Perhaps others have? > > Anyway, Alexandre produced some to exacting dimensions. He also sent me the drawings. While I plan to stay the course on our design features, I want to set the history straight. > > Thanks and much thanks to Alexandre. > > Joe Alexander > 4505 Donald Dr > Cedar Falls, IA 50613 > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/hpspitfire at gmail.com > > From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Wed Mar 28 13:31:00 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2018 19:31:00 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Needed ATL Fuel Cell info Fritz, Sent you an e mail a day or so ago about the fuel outlet AN size but haven't heard back from you on it yet??? I need to know if the fuel outlet size of AN #8 is OK for you. ATL uses a #8 on any cell over 12 gallons, you ordered a 15 gallon one. They can make it a #6 if you want but I need to know so they can start building it for you. I am going to post this on FOT as maybe someone there can get to you better than I can with just an e mail address. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Wed Mar 28 13:43:46 2018 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2018 19:43:46 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Mallory Dual Point Distributors Afternoon, I am after a trade or swap deal on Mallory Unilite distributors for a Mallory Dual Point distributor. I got 2 Unilites that are very very nice, nearly new. I need to get 3-4 dual point ones for my use. Anyone got any, anyone want to swap out or ......?????? [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From catpusher at aol.com Wed Mar 28 20:50:46 2018 From: catpusher at aol.com (catpusher at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2018 22:50:46 -0400 Subject: [Fot] The passing of Bill Emery References: I went downstairs to our race car today, and raised the "T" handle in respect. ? Hardy ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ac at camoletti.ch Thu Mar 29 05:36:10 2018 From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2018 13:36:10 +0200 Subject: [Fot] Valve Cover Fasteners. Wilen Inspired References: <2CE707AF-BD42-4BEC-A34F-5C8E95169549@gmail.com> Sorry one pix was high def and therefore 16Megs, here are the same Wilen related enclosures but in easier size! Thanks Joe! Wilen was an engineering company in the 50's. They made valve covers (vented) and also much more efficient inlet manifolds for the H4 carbs. The factory fitted their valve covers to their rally cars. See pix enclosed and article from TRAction (used without specific permission I am afraid, but also I hope forgiven) I have one original Wilen cover and got the Wilen nuts made here to the original proportions. Sketch is available for those interested! Alex Camoletti -----Message d'origine----- De : Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la part de Joe Alexander via Fot Envoy? : mercredi 28 mars 2018 14:21 ? : fot at autox.team.net Objet : [Fot] Valve Cover Fasteners. Wilen Inspired Friends, FOT Alexandre Camoletti sent me a message from Switzerland. He is rightfully correcting me on the origins of the valve cover fasteners. My inspiration for the design actually came from ?Wilen?, who produced not only the valve cover fasteners, but the valve cover, which features lateral heat sinks. Now I am trying to find out more history on the ?Wilen?. Company. This may be far more interesting. I have never heard of Wilen. Perhaps others have? Anyway, Alexandre produced some to exacting dimensions. He also sent me the drawings. While I plan to stay the course on our design features, I want to set the history straight. Thanks and much thanks to Alexandre. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: WilenEngineeringLogo.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 35143 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: WilenCoverL.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 183344 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: FactoryRallyTR3.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 84426 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: OtherWilenCover(IMG_2916).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 146852 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: WilenInletManifold.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 781036 bytes Desc: not available URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Thu Mar 29 05:43:57 2018 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2018 06:43:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Valve Cover Fasteners. Wilen Inspired References: <2CE707AF-BD42-4BEC-A34F-5C8E95169549@gmail.com> <026501d3c750$df0627b0$9d127710$@camoletti.ch> FOT Historians Proof of Wilen?s existence from Alexandre. If TRaction says so. It must be true. Below: some stuff for our Historians. I had never heard of the Wilen before. Thanks Alexandre Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Mar 29, 2018, at 6:27 AM, Alexandre Camoletti wrote: > > Thanks Joe! > Wilen was an engineering company in the 50's. They made valve covers (vented) and also much more efficient inlet manifolds for the H4 carbs. > The factory fitted their valve covers to their rally cars. > See pix enclosed and article from TRAction (used without specific permission I am afraid, but also I hope forgiven) > I have one original Wilen cover and got the Wilen nuts made here to the original proportions. > Alex Camoletti > > > -----Message d'origine----- > De : Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la part de Joe Alexander via Fot > Envoy? : mercredi 28 mars 2018 14:21 > ? : fot at autox.team.net > Objet : [Fot] Valve Cover Fasteners. Wilen Inspired > > Friends, > > FOT Alexandre Camoletti sent me a message from Switzerland. > > He is rightfully correcting me on the origins of the valve cover fasteners. > > My inspiration for the design actually came from ?Wilen?, who produced not only the valve cover fasteners, but the valve cover, which features lateral heat sinks. > > Now I am trying to find out more history on the ?Wilen?. Company. This may be far more interesting. I have never heard of Wilen. Perhaps others have? > > Anyway, Alexandre produced some to exacting dimensions. He also sent me the drawings. While I plan to stay the course on our design features, I want to set the history straight. > > Thanks and much thanks to Alexandre. > > Joe Alexander > 4505 Donald Dr > Cedar Falls, IA 50613 > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ac at camoletti.ch > > > > > > > > From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 29 11:02:36 2018 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2018 17:02:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Non Triumph - Help Needed References: <1626faa2402-1bc6-c29b@webjas-vae250.srv.aolmail.net> <1129841871.713664.1522323736218@mail.yahoo.com> I apologize for the Non-Triumph issue, but car guys are car guys.? Most of us have dealt with more than Triumphs, over the years, and I'm guessing that many, like myself, have had a Mustang or two along the way.? I recently picked up a 1969 Mustang Mach1 (big block car).? It was used for deag racing all of its life so has almost no miles or rust.? However, many parts have been stripped off (weight reduction?) or modified for larger tires.? So, I am looking for miscellaneous small parts (some hardware items), and some brackets welded to the inside of the car and inner rear fenders, mostly having to do with the rear seat mounts. I think ideally I would like to find someone who collects old Mustangs (parts cars - like I used to collect old Triumphs) who might have one that I could pull off some of these brackets, and I'm currently looking for some of the mounting hardware for the wiper motor.? And I'm sure there will be much more to come as the restoration proceeds.? Does anyone know of any "Mustang Guys" who might be able to help me?? Perhaps a wrecking yard that specializes in old muscle cars?? I am located in South Central North Carolina, so it would be ideal to find someone in this area (North or South Carolina, North Georgia or Southern Virginia). Many thanks for any help you can provide. Jack Wheeler -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gasket.works at gte.net Thu Mar 29 12:32:47 2018 From: gasket.works at gte.net (Mordy Dunst) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2018 14:32:47 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Non Triumph - Help Needed References: <1127253647.877750.1522342956783@mail.yahoo.com> I have a whole 1968 mustang that will be converted to a ?Bullitt? replica. When I get the time. Its been sitting for 15 years. Too many projects. MDunst Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 Fax 626.628.3777 Triple R Munitions, Inc 626.201.9471 T FFL 6,7 SOT 2 On Thursday, March 29, 2018, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: I apologize for the Non-Triumph issue, but car guys are car guys. Most of us have dealt with more than Triumphs, over the years, and I'm guessing that many, like myself, have had a Mustang or two along the way. I recently picked up a 1969 Mustang Mach1 (big block car). It was used for deag racing all of its life so has almost no miles or rust. However, many parts have been stripped off (weight reduction?) or modified for larger tires. So, I am looking for miscellaneous small parts (some hardware items), and some brackets welded to the inside of the car and inner rear fenders, mostly having to do with the rear seat mounts. I think ideally I would like to find someone who collects old Mustangs (parts cars - like I used to collect old Triumphs) who might have one that I could pull off some of these brackets, and I'm currently looking for some of the mounting hardware for the wiper motor. And I'm sure there will be much more to come as the restoration proceeds. Does anyone know of any "Mustang Guys" who might be able to help me? Perhaps a wrecking yard that specializes in old muscle cars? I am located in South Central North Carolina, so it would be ideal to find someone in this area (North or South Carolina, North Georgia or Southern Virginia). Many thanks for any help you can provide. Jack Wheeler _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Thu Mar 29 22:39:50 2018 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2018 21:39:50 -0700 Subject: [Fot] VARA High Desert Challenge, Willow Springs Raceway from John Frymark's GT6 built by Chuck Gee Dear Friends, Here is an exciting racing video from Willow Springs Raceway, ?The Fastest Road in the West.? Ride along with John Frymark in the GT6 featured in Kas? book. https://youtu.be/YkeqrqSgBoo ~STEVE -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Thu Mar 29 23:03:24 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2018 22:03:24 -0700 Subject: [Fot] VARA High Desert Challenge, Willow Springs Raceway from John Frymark's GT6 built by Chuck Gee References: Looks awesome casted to a 60? TV! Who?s that guy in the white TR3 harassing John for most of the race?? :-) Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 29, 2018, at 9:39 PM, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > Dear Friends, > > Here is an exciting racing video from Willow Springs Raceway, ?The Fastest Road in the West.? > > Ride along with John Frymark in the GT6 featured in Kas? book. > > https://youtu.be/YkeqrqSgBoo > > > ~STEVE > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Mar 30 05:28:14 2018 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 07:28:14 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Nominate Larry Ross to FOT I?d like a second please. Larry Ross is an active member of WPTA and serves as the WPTA Membership Chair. He owns 3 Triumphs, a Spitfire, a TR6 and recently acquired a TR8 with an interesting story. Larry has actively supported the Triumph racing community in support of WPTA?s long association with FOT. Larry owns his Allstate Insurance Agency and provides insurance services to many WPTA members. Larry?s email is LawrenceRoss at allstate.com Thanks, Jerry Van Vlack WPTA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Mar 30 07:02:57 2018 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 13:02:57 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Nominate Larry Ross to FOT References: <4EBEA65E668444D9A77EDFD9AD846CF1@UserTHINK> Second, welcome aboard Larry. Marty Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Jerry Van Vlack via Fot Date: 3/30/18 7:51 AM (GMT-05:00) To: FOT Cc: Larry Ross Subject: [Fot] Nominate Larry Ross to FOT I?d like a second please. Larry Ross is an active member of WPTA and serves as the WPTA Membership Chair. He owns 3 Triumphs, a Spitfire, a TR6 and recently acquired a TR8 with an interesting story. Larry has actively supported the Triumph racing community in support of WPTA?s long association with FOT. Larry owns his Allstate Insurance Agency and provides insurance services to many WPTA members. Thanks, Jerry Van Vlack WPTA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Mar 30 07:39:45 2018 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 09:39:45 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Fw: Nominate Larry Ross to FOT From: Paul MacDonald Sent: Friday, March 30, 2018 9:05 AM To: 'Jerry Van Vlack' Cc: 'Larry Ross' Subject: RE: [Fot] Nominate Larry Ross to FOT Second, I would like to hear the story on the TR8. Paul From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack via Fot Sent: March 30, 2018 7:28 AM To: FOT Cc: Larry Ross Subject: [Fot] Nominate Larry Ross to FOT I?d like a second please. Larry Ross is an active member of WPTA and serves as the WPTA Membership Chair. He owns 3 Triumphs, a Spitfire, a TR6 and recently acquired a TR8 with an interesting story. Larry has actively supported the Triumph racing community in support of WPTA?s long association with FOT. Larry owns his Allstate Insurance Agency and provides insurance services to many WPTA members. Larry?s email is LawrenceRoss at allstate.com Thanks, Jerry Van Vlack WPTA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Fri Mar 30 11:11:15 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2018 13:11:15 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Nominate Larry Ross to FOT References: <4EBEA65E668444D9A77EDFD9AD846CF1@UserTHINK> ?I'll second the nomination of Larry Ross into the FOT. ? On Fri, Mar 30, 2018 at 7:28 AM, Jerry Van Vlack via Fot wrote: > I?d like a second please. > > Larry Ross is an active member of WPTA and serves as the WPTA Membership > Chair. He owns 3 Triumphs, a Spitfire, a TR6 and recently acquired a TR8 > with an interesting story. Larry has actively supported the Triumph racing > community in support of WPTA?s long association with FOT. Larry owns his > Allstate Insurance Agency and provides insurance services to many WPTA > members. > Larry?s email is LawrenceRoss at allstate.com > > Thanks, > Jerry Van Vlack > WPTA > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Tue Mar 6 18:57:34 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly) Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2018 01:57:34 -0000 Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test This is another I have used for reference. www.vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/TransRebuild/OverDriveA02.pdf Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 On Tue 06/03/18 5:25 PM , Greg Blake gblake58tr3 at icloud.com sent: > All, > Appreciate all the feedback. As this was my first time tearing into an > overdrive, I am not familiar with how they work and what is > acceptable. > I was following the great articles on the Buckeye website. > http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD3/AOD3.htm [1] > Towards the end of the reassembly section, the article discuss the air > test which I thought could save me some trouble of trial and error. > I am happy that the clutch is operating as expected and plan to > reassemble and bench test to check for operating pressure. > Thanks again for the advice. > Greg > > Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 6, 2018, at 5:20 PM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote: > I agree. To me using air is not so much to test the ?seals? > (O-rings, balls & seats, accumulator piston rings, etc.) but to test > the mechanical movement of the overdrive internals. Greg?s test > showed the pistons moving the cone clutch very well with only 120 psi > so that?s what I would be looking for on the air test and nothing > more. Plus, this is something you can do on the bench before putting > it together since oil pressure is not yet available before assembly. > I think it?s inevitable that you will hear a lot of air leakage past > the operating valve with this mechanical test and doesn?t prove that > anything is hydraulically ?tight.? The bottom line is to get the > 400 psig and, if you do, any leakage past these areas is internal and > a moot point. > Mike > FROM: Fot [] ON BEHALF OF Charly Mitchel via Fot > SENT: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 1:58 PM > TO: J Wagner > CC: > SUBJECT: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test > Not to me it isn't, it's not really proving anything. Can't tell it > it's leaking past seals. > > Charly Mitchel > TR6 #44 > > ----- Original Message ----- > > FROM: > > TO: > > CC: > > SENT: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 11:40 AM > > SUBJECT: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test > Makes sense. Subsequently, is compressed air a viable means of > testing seals that normally run gear oil? > On Mar 6, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote: > > I believe the answer is the water molecules are larger than the air > molecules, which makes them easier to pass through the space. I think > Gore-Tex work the same way, lets the fabric breathe, but keeps the > water out. > > Not sure why I know this :) > > Charly Mitchel > TR6 #44 > > ----- Original Message ----- > > FROM: > > TO: > > SENT: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 8:03 AM > > SUBJECT: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test > I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on > the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a > question than an answer. > I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in > the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that > whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming > water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined > with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m > thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking > stops once all the air escapes. > I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act > differently on seals than pressurized oil? > Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my > sprinklers? > ?Justin > On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote: > > Greg, > > Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already > offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the > aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod. > > I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking > around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more > likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the > fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating > pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. > The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have > a lot of ?fat? built into it. > > One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a > relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing > the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? > and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil > bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one > where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, > resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask > me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded > rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the > length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer > than the short ones. > > Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is > indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between > the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was > eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the > tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the > valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so > a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit. > > Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which > valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the > accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to > the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would > not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you > were referring to the operating valve. > > Mike Hado > > FROM: Fot [ ] ON BEHALF OF barry rosenberg via Fot > SENT: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM > TO: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot > SUBJECT: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test > > I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the > case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for > itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the > plug, spring and little plunger. > > Barry > > On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > > Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type > overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had > a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it > (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on > the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and > forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip > that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and > obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This > may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the > unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding > compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help > you next time. Good luck. > > Jack Wheeler > > On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote: > > > All knowing FOT > > Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the > transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of > compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port. > > The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. > But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. > I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount > of leaking? > > I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball > instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in > the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild > someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4". > Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for > some bench testing. > Thanks. > > Greg > > Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________ > http://www.fot-racing.com [16] > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [17] > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [18] > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [19] > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com [20] > _______________________________________________ > http://www.fot-racing.com [22] > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [23] > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [24] > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [25] > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net [26] > _______________________________________________ > http://www.fot-racing.com [28] > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [29] > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [30] > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [31] > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com [32] > ------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > http://www.fot-racing.com [34] > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [35] > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [36] > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [37] > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com > [38] > > _______________________________________________ > http://www.fot-racing.com [40] > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html [41] > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive [42] > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums [43] > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com [44] > > > Links: > ------ > [1] http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD3/AOD3.htm > [16] http://www.fot-racing.com/ > [17] http://www.team.net/donate.html > [18] http://www.team.net/archive > [19] http://www.team.net/forums > [20] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com > [22] http://www.fot-racingcom/ > [23] http://www.team.net/donate.html > [24] http://www.team.net/archive > [25] http://www.team.net/forums > [26] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net > [28] http://www.fot-racing.com > [29] http://www.team.net/donate.html > [30] http://www.team.net/archive > [31] http://www.team.net/forums > [32] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com > [34] http://www.fot-racing.com > [35] http://www.team.net/donate.html > [36] http://www.team.net/archive > [37] http://www.team.net/forums > [38] > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com > [40] http://www.fot-racing.com > [41] http://www.team.net/donate.html > [42] http://www.team.net/archive > [43] http://www.team.net/forums > [44] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com > > From miles at grassrootsmotorsports.com Thu Mar 22 10:07:21 2018 From: miles at grassrootsmotorsports.com (Miles Wilson) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2018 12:07:21 -0400 Subject: [Fot] Congrats to Jim Dolan! References: <27130ED5-4DCB-472E-8154-99D25B4D09D2@voyagerhldgs.com> Congratulations on the feature Jim! If anyone wants copies of the May issue they are not yet available on our web store but I can always take orders over the phone. Cover price is $6.99 and standard First Class shipping is $3.00. Eventually that article may be posted on our website at classicmotorsports.com as well. It would just be a bit farther down the line when the content isn?t so fresh. Glad to see positive action for the Kastner Cup, Pittsburgh Vintage GP, and all things Triumph. Miles Wilson Reader Services Grassroots Motorsports Classic Motorsports 915 Ridgewood Ave. Holly Hill, FL 32117 386-239-0523 Ext. 24 800-520-8292 Upcoming Events: Classic Motorsports Mitty - Road Atlanta, Georgia, April 26-29, 2018 Tire Rack Ultimate Track Car Challenge Presented by Grassroots Motorsports - May 18-19, 2018 > On Mar 22, 2018, at 10:56 AM, James J Dolan via Fot wrote: > > J.C. > Thanks for the comment. > > I set this up last fall as part of the promotion plan for the 2018 Kastner Cup at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. > > Tim Suddard agreed to run the story in the spring issue and include the side bar on Pitt Race and the Kastner Cup. The side bar on the Hartwood racing was a surprise. > > Folks, its time to sign up the Kastner Cup. > > This will be a big one at a great race facility. And leave your car for the next weekend in Schenley Park. It is a must do experience. > > Here is short video of the Group 44 GT6 running 2 practice laps on the Schenley Park course. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCIJLmxSMbc&t=12s > > Jim Dolan > 2018 Kastner Cup Committee > > Date: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 at 3:50 PM > Subject: [Fot] Congrats to Jim Dolan! > > Amici,? <> > > Our very own Jim Dolan and his three sons are featured in the May 2018 issue of Classic Motorsports, with their Kastner-Brophy and Group 44 cars featured on the front cover. The accompanying article gives lots of ink to Kas, Lanky, Tullius, et al who were in the thick of the competition back in 72. There is a nice sidebar about Jim and his HARD club in Pittsburgh and another sidebar featuring Joe Alexander and the Kas Cup. Well done to all - this is a great read. > > jim > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gary at grassrootsmotorsports.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Tue Mar 27 12:03:19 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2018 11:03:19 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR 6 cylinder camshaft stamped D9 - what is it? References: <294B42D1EB2947D8B04076CB2897624C@Charly> I don't se the specs on line, but I could probably scan the page from Delta cam and post it. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: Charly Mitchel via Fot To: Jeff Durant ; Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley Cc: Friends ; Triumph Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2018 10:25 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR 6 cylinder camshaft stamped D9 - what is it? I'm not sure where it originated, but Delta Cam does them. I use them in my race car and a couple other British cars. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Durant via Fot To: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley Cc: Triumph ; Friends Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2018 10:11 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] TR 6 cylinder camshaft stamped D9 - what is it? Hi Chuck, I believe the D9 cam you mention is a Kent grind. See the specs on the chart below. Regards, Jeff Durant 408.221.8659 On Mar 25, 2018, at 5:25 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot wrote: i cannot find a similar one listed anywhere. Do want to sell it. I used it inmy hot rodded street TR6, but have lost the specs. Only D9 I see now is for the four cylinder engine. Any help greaty appreciated. will sell for $50 -- pictures on request. Thanks, Chuck Arnold _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jeff_durant at comcast.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.png Type: image/png Size: 139175 bytes Desc: not available URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Fri Mar 16 21:41:32 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2018 23:41:32 -0400 Subject: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts References: <002701d3baf6$3fe28f90$bfa7aeb0$@klaenv.com> , <552757113.146074.1521226495393@connect.xfinity.com> Jim, a nice '68 Z28 would turn my head! My '66 Barracuda, the Backa-ruda, gets a lot of looks and comments. And a hoot to drive. A friend has a really nice Pacer, if you can call a Pacer nice! 3 on the tree. Well preserved. Both her and the car! I'll get the Backa-ruda out as soon as the current blizzard lets up. Also awaken the TR6 from its slumber. Cheers, Bill PS: to all my fellow Irishman: Happy St Pat's Day. ----- Original Message ----- From: JAMES GRAY via Fot To: Henry A. Morrison via Fot ; Bill ; Paul Ricco ; Henry A. Morrison Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 2:54 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts You nailed it Henry, cars of the 80's sucked then and now. I think along with that they just didn't have the charm and audacity our cars were born with, the ability to turn heads still today. My car is registered for the street and when I have it out on the road it really gets attention. I got pulled over by a cop once just so he could see it up close. You won't get that kind of attention in an IROC camaro. I have this picture of a fully flared IMSA AMC Pacer in my mind I can't get out... jim g On March 16, 2018 at 10:40 AM "Henry A. Morrison via Fot" wrote: Solipsistic? I would keep vintage racing if I were racing with TR's and MG's etc. I went to a race and finished between a X1/9 and a RX7 and said why am I working so hard to keep my Elva running? Can I race a Dodge Neon or other POS? At the Last VSCDA event there was one Honda CRX in the field. Were these ever raced? Wait I know they were but NO ONE cared to watch. The CRX ruined the aesthetic of the field. Please forward my message to the owner and tell him to get a real car. I grew up in the 80's the cars sucked, they still suck. 1000 years shall pass and they shall still suck. I know very few people who long for those cars and do not wish to associate with them. Old bad wine, is still bad wine. Remember a Snob is merely one who appreciates that which is, good. I do appreciate all Triumphs. Cheers, Henry Morrison Sent from Outlook ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2018 10:43 PM To: Paul Ricco Cc: Henry A. Morrison; Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] New Cars, New Parts I?m trying to figure out what Henry is disagreeing with, or what Paul is saying. If you?re leaving vintage racing, why would you care what the rules are or what cars the organizations permit? And if vintage racing is dying, then how is accepting 80?s cars selling out for the entry fee? If you started racing in 86, then the cars from 1950 (probably older than whatever you raced) were 36 years old. Cars from 1980 are 38 years old. Does vintage mean just those cars that were cool when you were a kid? That?s a bit too solipsistic for me. On Mar 15, 2018, at 2:50 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote: Henry, Well put. We have really enjoyed 30 years of vintage racing and club racing. However, I am seriously considering retiring from Vintage Racing after this season and going back to club racing. I loved the open spirit of CanAm in the day, but that is not what I got into vintage racing a vintage 60?s era sports car for. We may give our race TR4 a well deserved frame off restoration and it can be preserved as closely to the way it was raced during the late 60?s and 70?s as possible. It can enjoy some restful retirement time with some of the others that we really care for. We can focus our energy on prepping another race car for Midwest Council or SCCA Club Racing, and not have to deal with some of the dilemma?s that we are facing with car prep for vintage. Most club racing organizations have made it very simple. If the rule book does not say that you can make a specific modification, than you cannot make it. It makes things a lot simpler. Paul On Mar 15, 2018, at 5:32 PM, Henry A. Morrison via Fot wrote: I just can't disagree with this statement more. 1. Vintage racing is dying. There are way fewer cars and races than there were in 1986 when I started. 2. The newer cars and drivers scarcely know what a road course is. Car culture was different after '72 and especially now, just look at the current Fast and furious movies that sell the current car culture. 3. how many old TR gearboxes from my personal collection would you like to have delivered to your place tomorrow? Or buy some of the ones on ebay for $150, that seems to be the going rate. 4. Clubs that accept cars from the 80's are selling out for the entry fee, and in doing so driving me away in the process. Have a great racing season, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM Sent from Outlook ------------------------------------------------------------------------ It is good to see that other clubs are allowing newer cars into their races. VARA has been doing this for several years so that we could survive, keep the club solvent and the cost of racing reasonable. The future of vintage racing is an expansion to cars from the 80?s and 90?s, they are long past their prime in other venues, cheap and they bring in new drivers. They are in fact ?vintage?, like our cars were in the 80? and 90?s. More important, these are the guys and gals that lusted for a certain hot car of the that era and now have older kids and the bucks to go racing. Without these folks our sport will pass along with us. The same is true of parts. Much of our equipment is worn out and not maintainable without great cost and effort any longer. Gear boxes are an example. I am down to my last good transmission case for my dog box. When that goes, or the gear set is toast, I am making the switch to a modern box (same ratios) that I can maintain. Like many of us I have missed races because of transmission failures. Tony runs a Ford 8? because he doesn?t want to get hurt, and it is bullet proof for racing, even has a weight penalty. A gear box switch is inevitable if we want to keep our cars on track at an expenditure of time and money that makes sense. There are tons of other parts that make engines last longer (and yes they make more power). An old TR motor is nothing but half a Chevy Small Block; those guys spent hundreds of millions developing motor parts that we can take advantage of. Same is true of blueprinting techniques, there are much better ways to build engines than ?back in the day? and if you read a book and learn how to do it the bloody lump lasts twice as long. Last time I had my motor out I could have put the coated bearings with 25 races on them back in. At 36 races I had <5% leak down on the rings and valves. Started out building the old school way, with old school parts, those days are over as I don?t have the time to spend five days in the shop for every day at the track. Oil. There is no such thing as cheap racing oil. Modern oil is the best it has ever been and makes the motor last. I had technical help from Lake Speed who is the ?man? for Joe Gibbs Driven race oil. The stuff is $18 a quart but will last 500+ miles in the car (4-6 race weekends). Just change the filter after every race and add on quart, total cost $30.00. I can run all the way down to 27 wt. (mixing) but just run the 30 wt. racing oil even at +100 degrees in the desert and the oil pressure is always spot on. Tight clearances, light oil and great bearing life, well worth the cost. My point in all of this is that ?vintage? racing is changing, both the cars and the people. We are going to have to accept and adapt or slowly see our sport fade. They willalways be a special place for those cars with a 50 year race history, prepared exactly like it raced in 1965. For the rest of the grid, and those of us that don?t have cars with history, there are going to be cars with certain changes that get us to the track. Besides some of us are just SoCal Hot Rodders at heart with a touch of ?good ole boy? NACAR ingenuity. Now I need to get back to work on that 85% scale TR-4 body in aluminum, or possible carbon fiber???..Everyone have a great 2018 season racing! Ken _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From riverside at southslope.net Tue Mar 20 12:15:46 2018 From: riverside at southslope.net (riverside at southslope.net) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2018 13:15:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 radiators I am working on a TR6 with a strong street motor: 130 off the head, triple SU?s on Goodparts intake, about a 270 deg cam. We need a radiator and I would like any guidance: how many rows, Aluminum vs. copper, quality of manufacturer. Also need a source for shortenable pushrods for the same motor. Thanks much! art de armond -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 31 06:46:03 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2018 12:46:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR6 radiators References: Hi Art, Any three-row radiator is fine. I ran a 12:1 motor with a stock radiator re-cored to 3-row and it never got over 190 when ambients were in the 90's. And this setup was mostly used for autocross, so the car idled a lot and was shut off between runs. It might spike to 200 just sitting there in grid. I also strongly recommend aluminum - Wizard Radiators and others sell a drop in for not too much money. I got mine from TRF years ago and it works great and is super light compared to the copper unit. Regards,Bob Lang On Saturday, March 31, 2018, 7:30:33 AM EDT, riverside--- via Fot wrote: I am working on a TR6 with a strong street motor:130 off the head,? triple SU?s on Goodparts intake,about a 270 deg cam.? We need a radiator andI would like any guidance:?? how many rows,Aluminum vs. copper,? quality of manufacturer.Also need a source for shortenable pushrods forthe same motor.? Thanks much!?art de armond????_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Sat Mar 31 07:04:04 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2018 09:04:04 -0400 Subject: [Fot] TR6 radiators References: Pushrods- just ordered a set from Manton. They have a good piece on their website on how to size and measure them. Smith brothers is good too. Both custom make and ship in 48 hours or so. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 20, 2018, at 2:15 PM, riverside--- via Fot wrote: > > I am working on a TR6 with a strong street motor: > 130 off the head, triple SU?s on Goodparts intake, > about a 270 deg cam. We need a radiator and > I would like any guidance: how many rows, > Aluminum vs. copper, quality of manufacturer. > Also need a source for shortenable pushrods for > the same motor. Thanks much! > > art de armond > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Sat Mar 31 08:57:05 2018 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2018 09:57:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] VARA High Desert Challenge, Willow Springs Raceway from John Frymark's GT6 built by Chuck Gee References: What beautiful noises. I guess you figured out the fuel delivery. Good racing. Greg Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 29, 2018, at 11:39 PM, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > Dear Friends, > > Here is an exciting racing video from Willow Springs Raceway, ?The Fastest Road in the West.? > > Ride along with John Frymark in the GT6 featured in Kas? book. > > https://youtu.be/YkeqrqSgBoo > > > ~STEVE > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gblake58tr3 at icloud.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Sat Mar 31 10:56:30 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2018 16:56:30 +0000 Subject: [Fot] VARA High Desert Challenge, Willow Springs Raceway from John Frymark's GT6 built by Chuck Gee References: , <0B2CFD74-094F-4AD8-BF01-E1D0F5BF3BB1@icloud.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sat Mar 31 15:17:18 2018 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2018 16:17:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] ATL Fuel Cell WD Deal References: <5376ca2616d046fa898865eabcb258fe@dieselperformanceparts.com> Mine arrived this afternoon. Thanks for organizing this, Mark! Duncan > On Mar 19, 2018, at 8:08 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig wrote: > > Morning, > > If you are receiving this e mail it is because you had responded and or committed to buy at ATL fuel cell for your race car. The time has come to pony up and get the orders done. > > Please respond to me with the cell part number(s) you want and the payment type. It is easiest for me to accept any Visa/Mastercard/Discover or Amercian Express cards. My contact info is below in my signature, we are on CST and open 8-5 M-F. > > Thank you for participating in this onetime special deal. It has helped me get what I needed to be an ATL WD and you got a steal of a deal!! > > > > MARK CRAIG > Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. > 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 > www.dieselperformanceparts.com > > > > Phone: 615-834-0066 > Fax: 615-834-9923 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: