From pvucinic at netspace.net.au Fri Mar 2 04:41:22 2018
From: pvucinic at netspace.net.au (Peter Vucinic)
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2018 22:41:22 +1100
Subject: [Fot] TR7 Wheel Alignment Spec
Hoping someone might have the TOE out on TURN data that missing from the
specs below?
Thanks in advance
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GE4X-3zWy0A/TyfIkiKPnhI/AAAAAAAABS0/D4z7SXAqWiw/s1
600/triumph_1975_wheel_alignment_specifications.JPG
"You can Make a Small Fortune From Motor Racing. As long as You Started With
A Lage Fortune!"
Kind Regards
Peter Vucinic
TR4 - TR7 V8 - Spitfire MkII
_______________________________________________
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From biznzman at pacbell.net Fri Mar 2 08:37:11 2018
From: biznzman at pacbell.net (STEPHEN BOROWSKI)
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2018 15:37:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] TR4 Racer Terry Stephens Contact Info
References: <903616062.7392324.1520005031682.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Anyone know Terry Stephens, TR-4 Racer in Florida phone number? He running at Sebring this weekend and I would like to talk to him but I've lost his number.
Thxs. Steve B. also Florida,TR4 Racer
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From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Sun Mar 4 18:59:49 2018
From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake)
Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2018 19:59:49 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
All knowing FOT
Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port.
The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking?
I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4".
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Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing.
Thanks.
Greg
Sent from my iPhone
From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 5 11:04:31 2018
From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler)
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2018 18:04:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
Hi Greg.? Here is a tip for you.? When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on.? I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.).? Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on.? This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball.? This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping.? Maybe this will help you next time.? Good luck.
Jack Wheeler
On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote:
All knowing FOT
Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port.
The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking?
I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4".
Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing.
Thanks.
Greg
Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From britcars at bellsouth.net Tue Mar 6 04:30:36 2018
From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 11:30:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
<1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com>
I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger.
Barry
On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote:
Hi Greg.? Here is a tip for you.? When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on.? I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.).? Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on.? This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball.? This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping.? Maybe this will help you next time.? Good luck.
Jack Wheeler
On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote:
All knowing FOT
Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port.
The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking?
I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4".
Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing.
Thanks.
Greg
Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Mar 6 06:53:59 2018
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 08:53:59 -0500
Subject: [Fot] 2018 Kastner Cup TEE Shirts
Trying this again, first attempt on Sunday did not go thru.
FOT and Friends,
2nd Posting for 2018 Kastner Cup Tee Shirts. If you have previously responded I have your information.
I need size and color GRAY or WHITE
I was asked if I can have DRIVER placed on the sleeve for those who are drivers. I am looking into that and will advise. Are there any other additions that you?d like to see on the shirt. I?ll accommodate any that can be added easily. Shirts will have the poster artwork as shown above.
Gray seems to be the popular choice but I can do both white and gray at this point.
I have 55 orders but need more to make this work, so order soon and often.
If you can not attend but want a shirt I will accommodate for a mailing fee TBD. I?ll look into overseas mailing as well.
Payment will need to be via check or money order, no cash at the race please. Price depends upon number of shirts ordered by Mid May. I might be able to firm up pricing before then if we can get to 100 shirts. 45 to go.
I can?t promise no rain but I can promise a good time will be had by all regardless of weather.
Let?s make this the best Kastner Cup so far. It?s a tall order as each year has raised the bar.
Thanks,
Jerry Van Vlack
330-620-4548 cell
jerryvv at roadrunner.com
From: Jerry Van Vlack via Fot
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2018 7:54 PM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] 2018 Kastner Cup Tee-Shirts
Tee-Shirts, I?m starting early and often.
I?ve agreed to coordinate the Tee-Shirt for this years event at Pitt-Race in conjunction with the Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix. To develop pricing I need a show of interest and how many you?d like. The shirt will have the event poster as the artwork, 100% cotton and a mid weight weave. Minimum quantity is 50 and based upon previous years this should be easy to attain. Initial price estimate is between $18 and $20 dollars, perhaps a bit lower if we can get to 100 shirts Sizes small to 3X large (larger than 2X will cost an additional $4.00). Color can be white or a mid gray but all will be the same. If you will not attend but want a shirt mailing will be extra and to be determined at this point. Prepayment is required as I need the cash before I order the shirts. Cut off date will be mid June unless the printer needs more time. Delivery will be at Pitt Race during the event.
So please respond with your level of interest and how many you?d like.
I?ll keep a record, need your name and e-mail address and color preference if it matters.
Thanks,
Jerry Van Vlack aka JVV
jerryvv at roadrunner.com
WPTA Member and long time FOT supporter via WPTA?s involvement.
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From mhado at att.net Tue Mar 6 07:48:34 2018
From: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 08:48:34 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
<1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com>
<1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com>
Greg,
Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod.
I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it.
One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones.
Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit.
Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve.
Mike Hado
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot
Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM
To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger.
Barry
On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote:
Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck.
Jack Wheeler
On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote:
All knowing FOT
Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port.
The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking?
I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4".
Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing.
Thanks.
Greg
Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From sjanzen at me.com Tue Mar 6 08:14:07 2018
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 10:14:07 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup 2018 open for registration
References: <1747A371-B285-4373-A530-A53E2CEFA7FF@voyagerhldgs.com>
this event is and has been open for registration for a while. go to http://www.pvgp.org/drivers/ and you will see a registration link. Some portion of it has to be done the old fashioned way with paper and mail.
On Oct 28, 2017, at 3:16 PM, James J Dolan via Fot wrote:
Dear Friends of Triumph (and all who race and keep alive these glorious machines):
The 2018 running of the 16th Kastner Cup will be held in conjunction with the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix July 6 - 7 ? 8, 2018.
The Track
Our track this year is the Pittsburgh International Race Complex (PittRace) in Wampum Pennsylvania, located about 40 miles northwest of Pittsburgh. www.pittrace.com PittRace is a tremendous track and facility. Boasting 2.8 miles of length, 19 turns, WIDTH (36 feet), and elevation change (110 feet). The track is fast and challenging yet forgiving with lots of runoff. Wind it out on two long straights. Fix it in the paved paddocks & clean garages. Stay fresh with the clean & air-conditioned facilities. We be running the full circuit (combined north & south tracks) all weekend. The track was completely resurfaced last year (with terrific curbing) and is an excellent racing surface. Here is an instructional video narrated by the track instructor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3o-J6gcdnM
The PVGP Historics Race Schedule
Thursday July 5 is Test & Tune day. If you?re new to the track, make this a priority!
Friday July 6th ? 8:30 to 5:30 Practice and Qualifying
Saturday July 7th - 8:30 to 4:00 Qualifying Races - 4:00 pm 16th Kastner Cup - 5:00 pm Kastner Cup Awards - 6:00 pm PVGP dinner
Sunday July 8th ? 8:30 to 5:30 Sprint Races & Feature Races
**Triumphs will race in their assigned groups all weekend and then in a 40 minute session to finish the Saturday afternoon schedule.**
http://www.pvgp.org/drivers/pvgp-historic-races/schedule/
Paddock
We will have a Kastner Cup tent on grass adjacent to our paved paddock reserved for the Kastner Cup.
Webpage
In the next few weeks we will have a web page on the PVGP site for the Kastner Cup entrants, providing updates on important information, entry forms, hotel information.http://www.pvgp.org/kastner-cup/
Entry Form
We will soon have up a special web page entry form and ShowClix link for Kastner Cup Triumphs that includes details on both weekends. Details for this are almost complete - working on the final hotel arrangements.
This year?s event is set up to give Kastner Cup entrants the option to run both race weekends. We have arranged for storage of race car trailers at the PittRace facility for those who enter to run both weekends. Leave your trailer at PittRace on July 8th and return Friday July 13th to race Schenley Park on the second weekend. As a bonus, Kastner Cup entries have been offered a complimentary entry fee for the Axis vs Allies race at Schenley Park for Triumphs that race both weekends. The Axis vs Allies is a 30-minute feature race run Saturday afternoon between the mighty British cars and the combined German and Italian racers. http://www.pvgp.org/facts/
About the PVGP
Begun in 1983, the PVGP is a 35 year old vintage racing event that covers two whole weeks of action. The first weekend is at Pitt International Race Complex - our home for the 2018 Kastner Cup event.
The second weekend is racing on the streets of Schenley Park, a city park adjacent to the Carnegie Mellon and University of Pittsburgh campuses. Between the race weekends there are numerous car shows, road rally, a Jet Center party and more. PVGP is a 100% volunteer event with 2,000 volunteers and the event proceeds support Autism charities in Western Pennsylvania.
Schenley Park Race
Schenley Park is a true street race - with curbs, street lights, brick walls, crowned roads and manhole covers. (this link is some GT6 laps of Schenley Park) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCIJLmxSMbc . Schenley Park is racing as it was in the 1950?s and early 60?s. The race is through city streets and a golf course, with over 3,000 vintage cars displayed on the golf course and an estimated 200,000 spectators over the weekend. The Streets of Schenley Park is a bucket list item for its uniqueness and setting.
This second weekend is optional and not a part of the Kastner Cup race. On the web site you will see there are two distinct race weekends. The Kastner Cup is part of the PVGP Historics weekend. The PVGP runs for the entire 10 day period, wrapped by two race weekend. http://www.pvgp.org/about-us/history/ .
The PVGP web site is transitioning from the prior 2017 information to 2018 event information and should be complete by the first week of November. There is a mountain of content and information on the PVGP site, lots of photos and facts. We will use it as the primary communication device. Look for emails alerting you to new information and a link to the relevant pages.
(https://www.flickr.com/photos/pittsburghvintagegrandprix/collections/72157686969177600/) .
We think we have the elements of an exceptional event.
Please mark the dates. More to come!
2018 Kastner Cup Committee
Jim, Brian, Peter and Charlie Dolan
GT6 #4
GT6 #5
GT6 #6
MGA #57
_______________________________________________
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From 4msonset at gmail.com Tue Mar 6 09:03:04 2018
From: 4msonset at gmail.com (J Wagner)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 08:03:04 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
<1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com>
<1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com>
<003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net>
I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer.
I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes.
I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil?
Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers?
?Justin
> On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote:
>
> Greg,
>
> Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod.
>
> I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it.
>
> One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones.
>
> Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit.
>
> Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve.
>
> Mike Hado
>
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot
> Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM
> To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
>
> I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger.
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote:
>
>
> Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck.
>
> Jack Wheeler
>
>
> On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote:
>
>
> All knowing FOT
>
> Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port.
>
> The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking?
>
> I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4".
>
>
> Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Greg
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/britcars at bellsouth.net
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com
>
>
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From jhasty at mhc-law.com Tue Mar 6 09:37:10 2018
From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 16:37:10 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Synchros
Brand New Bastuck Synchros - 4th. to 3rd failed on the first practice lap at Sebring - 3rd to 2nd failed during the second practice - 2nd to 3rd failed in the first race. We are told that they are now being made in Turkey, not Germany.....Oh my, what to do?????
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CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code.
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From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Tue Mar 6 11:17:37 2018
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 10:17:37 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
<1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com>
<1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com>
<003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net>
<4774C90B-FECF-420A-9343-42AEE8D920F9@gmail.com>
I believe the answer is the water molecules are larger than the air molecules, which makes them easier to pass through the space. I think Gore-Tex work the same way, lets the fabric breathe, but keeps the water out.
Not sure why I know this :)
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message -----
From: J Wagner via Fot
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer.
I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes.
I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil?
Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers?
?Justin
On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote:
Greg,
Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod.
I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it.
One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones.
Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit.
Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve.
Mike Hado
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot
Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM
To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger.
Barry
On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote:
Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck.
Jack Wheeler
On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote:
All knowing FOT
Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port.
The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking?
I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4".
Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing.
Thanks.
Greg
Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
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From 4msonset at gmail.com Tue Mar 6 12:40:34 2018
From: 4msonset at gmail.com (J Wagner)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 11:40:34 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
<1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com>
<1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com>
<003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net>
<4774C90B-FECF-420A-9343-42AEE8D920F9@gmail.com>
Makes sense. Subsequently, is compressed air a viable means of testing seals that normally run gear oil?
> On Mar 6, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>
> I believe the answer is the water molecules are larger than the air molecules, which makes them easier to pass through the space. I think Gore-Tex work the same way, lets the fabric breathe, but keeps the water out.
> Not sure why I know this :)
> Charly Mitchel
> TR6 #44
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: J Wagner via Fot
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 8:03 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
>
> I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer.
>
> I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes.
>
> I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil?
>
> Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers?
>
> ?Justin
>
>> On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote:
>>
>> Greg,
>> Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod.
>> I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it.
>> One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones.
>> Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit.
>> Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve.
>> Mike Hado
>> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM
>> To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot
>> Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
>> I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger.
>> Barry
>>
>> On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote:
>>
>> Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck.
>> Jack Wheeler
>> On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote:
>> All knowing FOT
>> Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port.
>> The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking?
>> I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4".
>>
>>
>> Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Greg
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Tue Mar 6 12:57:51 2018
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 11:57:51 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
<1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com>
<1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com>
<003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net>
<4774C90B-FECF-420A-9343-42AEE8D920F9@gmail.com>
<8611DCE6-95F7-4A94-A0D0-BBD418DF2927@gmail.com>
Not to me it isn't, it's not really proving anything. Can't tell it it's leaking past seals.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message -----
From: J Wagner
To: Charly Mitchel
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
Makes sense. Subsequently, is compressed air a viable means of testing seals that normally run gear oil?
On Mar 6, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote:
I believe the answer is the water molecules are larger than the air molecules, which makes them easier to pass through the space. I think Gore-Tex work the same way, lets the fabric breathe, but keeps the water out.
Not sure why I know this :)
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message -----
From: J Wagner via Fot
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer.
I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes.
I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil?
Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers?
?Justin
On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote:
Greg,
Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod.
I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it.
One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones.
Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit.
Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve.
Mike Hado
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot
Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM
To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger.
Barry
On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote:
Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck.
Jack Wheeler
On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote:
All knowing FOT
Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port.
The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking?
I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4".
Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing.
Thanks.
Greg
Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Tue Mar 6 15:58:42 2018
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 17:58:42 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Synchros
References:
John, get some original rings in good shape, a piece of flat glass, and some fine sandpaper. Sand the rings slightly on the glass plate. That may let the ring engage better on the cone part of the gear.
May work, right Ted?
Some of the new stuff isn't of the best quality, to say the least.
Anybody else do this?
Cheers, Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hasty via Fot
To: FOT
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 11:37 AM
Subject: [Fot] Synchros
Brand New Bastuck Synchros ? 4th. to 3rd failed on the first practice lap at Sebring ? 3rd to 2nd failed during the second practice ? 2nd to 3rd failed in the first race. We are told that they are now being made in Turkey, not Germany?..Oh my, what to do?????
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that
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CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code.
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Mar 6 16:20:19 2018
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 18:20:19 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Synchros
References:
John, What was the failure mode? IE, what happened, I assume grinding gears. Perhaps the circlip failed and has allowed too much free play.
Great, I just replaced 4 in my street TR4A.
JVV
From: John Hasty via Fot
Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 11:37 AM
To: FOT
Subject: [Fot] Synchros
Brand New Bastuck Synchros ? 4th. to 3rd failed on the first practice lap at Sebring ? 3rd to 2nd failed during the second practice ? 2nd to 3rd failed in the first race. We are told that they are now being made in Turkey, not Germany?..Oh my, what to do?????
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that
is confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are
hereby notified that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate this message, any part of it, or any attachments.
If you have received this message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your system without reading the
content and notify the sender immediately of the inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to waive
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From mhado at att.net Tue Mar 6 16:20:56 2018
From: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado)
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2018 17:20:56 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
<1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com>
<1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com>
<003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net>
<4774C90B-FECF-420A-9343-42AEE8D920F9@gmail.com>
<8611DCE6-95F7-4A94-A0D0-BBD418DF2927@gmail.com>
<30309331F4DE4A769A7D35F325826051@Charly>
I agree. To me using air is not so much to test the ?seals? (O-rings, balls & seats, accumulator piston rings, etc.) but to test the mechanical movement of the overdrive internals. Greg?s test showed the pistons moving the cone clutch very well with only 120 psi so that?s what I would be looking for on the air test and nothing more. Plus, this is something you can do on the bench before putting it together since oil pressure is not yet available before assembly. I think it?s inevitable that you will hear a lot of air leakage past the operating valve with this mechanical test and doesn?t prove that anything is hydraulically ?tight.? The bottom line is to get the 400 psig and, if you do, any leakage past these areas is internal and a moot point.
Mike
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charly Mitchel via Fot
Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 1:58 PM
To: J Wagner
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
Not to me it isn't, it's not really proving anything. Can't tell it it's leaking past seals.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message -----
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
Makes sense. Subsequently, is compressed air a viable means of testing seals that normally run gear oil?
On Mar 6, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote:
I believe the answer is the water molecules are larger than the air molecules, which makes them easier to pass through the space. I think Gore-Tex work the same way, lets the fabric breathe, but keeps the water out.
Not sure why I know this :)
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
----- Original Message -----
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer.
I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes.
I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil?
Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers?
?Justin
On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote:
Greg,
Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod.
I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it.
One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones.
Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit.
Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve.
Mike Hado
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot
Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM
To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot
Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger.
Barry
On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote:
Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck.
Jack Wheeler
On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote:
All knowing FOT
Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port.
The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking?
I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4".
Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing.
Thanks.
Greg
Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com
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From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Tue Mar 6 18:25:26 2018
From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake)
Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2018 19:25:26 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
<1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com>
<1123716743.11727331.1520335836458@mail.yahoo.com>
<003901d3b55a$3503c540$9f0b4fc0$@att.net>
<4774C90B-FECF-420A-9343-42AEE8D920F9@gmail.com>
<8611DCE6-95F7-4A94-A0D0-BBD418DF2927@gmail.com>
<30309331F4DE4A769A7D35F325826051@Charly>
<00e901d3b5a1$c821b250$586516f0$@att.net>
All,
Appreciate all the feedback. As this was my first time tearing into an overdrive, I am not familiar with how they work and what is acceptable.
I was following the great articles on the Buckeye website.
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD3/AOD3.htm
Towards the end of the reassembly section, the article discuss the air test which I thought could save me some trouble of trial and error.
I am happy that the clutch is operating as expected and plan to reassemble and bench test to check for operating pressure.
Thanks again for the advice.
Greg
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 6, 2018, at 5:20 PM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote:
>
> I agree. To me using air is not so much to test the ?seals? (O-rings, balls & seats, accumulator piston rings, etc.) but to test the mechanical movement of the overdrive internals. Greg?s test showed the pistons moving the cone clutch very well with only 120 psi so that?s what I would be looking for on the air test and nothing more. Plus, this is something you can do on the bench before putting it together since oil pressure is not yet available before assembly. I think it?s inevitable that you will hear a lot of air leakage past the operating valve with this mechanical test and doesn?t prove that anything is hydraulically ?tight.? The bottom line is to get the 400 psig and, if you do, any leakage past these areas is internal and a moot point.
>
> Mike
>
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charly Mitchel via Fot
> Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 1:58 PM
> To: J Wagner
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
>
> Not to me it isn't, it's not really proving anything. Can't tell it it's leaking past seals.
> Charly Mitchel
> TR6 #44
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: J Wagner
> To: Charly Mitchel
> Cc: fot at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 11:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
>
> Makes sense. Subsequently, is compressed air a viable means of testing seals that normally run gear oil?
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 6, 2018, at 10:17 AM, Charly Mitchel wrote:
>
> I believe the answer is the water molecules are larger than the air molecules, which makes them easier to pass through the space. I think Gore-Tex work the same way, lets the fabric breathe, but keeps the water out.
> Not sure why I know this :)
> Charly Mitchel
> TR6 #44
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: J Wagner via Fot
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 8:03 AM
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
>
> I?m almost embarrassed to chime in here as I have no expertise on the inner workings of a transmission, but perhaps it?s more of a question than an answer.
>
> I?ve run a lot of PVC irrigation pipe in my day, particularly in the last few years landscaping my house. I?ve noticed that whenever I turn on a new system, the air compressed by the incoming water with force it?s way past connections of threaded pipe, joined with teflon tape, and take a little water with it. Just when I?m thinking that I?ve failed to tighten the pipe enough, the leaking stops once all the air escapes.
>
> I suppose it?s a fluid dynamics question. Will compressed air act differently on seals than pressurized oil?
>
> Maybe the escape of air is as meaningless as it has been in my sprinklers?
>
> ?Justin
>
> On Mar 6, 2018, at 6:48 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote:
>
> Greg,
> Just a couple more thoughts to add to the good suggestions already offered. I especially liked Jack?s idea of hand-lapping in the aluminum seats with a ball welded to a rod.
> I?m guessing that most of the air you?re hearing is leaking around the outside of the operating valve since air is much more likely to do so than the relatively thick 90 weight oil. Just the fact that only 120 psi of air pressure is enough to move the operating pistons tells me that the rest of your system is relatively tight. The normal operating pressure after all is about 400 psig so you have a lot of ?fat? built into it.
> One thing that might cause the operating pistons to move with a relatively small pressure is having weak or incorrect springs pushing the cone clutch rearward. Be sure you have the so-called ?long? and ?short? ones in the right locations, It?s actually the coil bound length that determines which is which. If you put a long one where a short one will be, it may bind before reaching full movement, resulting in the cone clutch not reaching the brake ring. Don?t ask me how I know this. To check this, I put each spring on a threaded rod and run a nut down the rod until the coil binds. Measure the length at that point and the long springs will be about 3/8? longer than the short ones.
> Also, the seating of the balls on the aluminum seats in the casing is indeed important but it?s also important to have a good seat between the ball and tip of the operating valve. I had a D-type OD that was eating my lunch with low operating pressure during engagement and the tip of the valve was nicked resulting in a bad seal. Changing the valve solved the problem. The oil flow is very small in the system so a leak of even the smallest area will drop the pressure quite a bit.
> Lastly, you mentioned the ?relief valve? and I?m not sure which valve you are referring to since the pressure relief occurs when the accumulator piston moves enough to uncover the relief holes back to the sump. Since you only had 120 psi, the accumulator piston would not have moved nearly enough to ?relieve.? I?m guessing you were referring to the operating valve.
> Mike Hado
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of barry rosenberg via Fot
> Sent: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 5:31 AM
> To: Jack Wheeler; Greg Blake via Fot
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
> I used to put the ball in a tap in down with a blunt punch. As the case is aluminum and the ball hard steel, it made a very nice seat for itself. This can be done without pulling the OD apart. Just pull the plug, spring and little plunger.
> Barry
> On Monday, March 5, 2018 5:26 PM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote:
> Hi Greg. Here is a tip for you. When I used to rebuild A-Type overdrives, I would "lap in" the surface that the ball sits on. I had a spare ball of the correct size, and I welded a small rod to it (about 3/16" diam.). Then I put a bit of valve grinding compound on the ball, inserted it down into the hole, then turned it back and forth, thus lapping the surface that the ball sits on. This is a tip that Hardy Prentice gave me years ago, when we were both racing, and obviously the purpose was to minimize any leakage past the ball. This may be to late in your case, as you would have to do this while the unit is apart, so that you can carefully clean all of the grinding compoound out of the housing after the lapping. Maybe this will help you next time. Good luck.
> Jack Wheeler
> On Monday, March 5, 2018, 12:12:29 AM EST, Greg Blake via Fot wrote:
> All knowing FOT
> Attached is a video of my Type A OD unit ready to bolt up to the transmission. I decided to do a pressure test with 120psi of compressed air plumbed into the operating vale port.
> The engagement seems to work well when I move the operating lever. But I am concerned about the amount of air that can be heard leaking. I believe it is going past the relief valve. Is this abnormal amount of leaking?
> I noticed upon tear down that the nonreturn valve had a 1/4" ball instead of the 5/16" this unit should have had. The test you see in the video is with a new 5/16" ball. I am sure on a previous rebuild someone mistakenly used the later style 1/4".
>
>
> Just wanted opinions before I buttoned this up to the transmission for some bench testing.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Greg
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From cartravel at pobox.com Wed Mar 7 13:41:47 2018
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 14:41:47 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
<1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com>
It seems like the balls and springs (pump, operating valve) are always a
problem. I've seen all sorts of suggestions and tried many of them.
Lapping the ball seat sounds like a good idea. I've always used the
smack the ball with a hammer trick. I don't know how to test those
little springs and I don't trust that the ones we buy are correct.
Rather than worrying about air leakage, a better test is probably to see
how long the unit holds pressure after you shut it down. I had one that
would hold pressure for days, but most will only hold pressure for a
number of minutes to perhaps an hour.
One problem I have frequently had is that the unit will not pressure up
after I put oil in it.? I've always thought it was because of all the
air in the lines. I developed an assembly method to make sure I got oil
pumped at each step. You could also use it as a troubleshooting method.
You might check it out starting at Step 15 in
http://vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/TransRebuild/OverDriveA02.pdf.
Another trick I've heard is to put Vaseline jelly in the pump to help it
get started.
?- Larry
From kaskastner at gmail.com Wed Mar 7 14:11:49 2018
From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 13:11:49 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
<1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com>
<6fe08f9a-6662-ff7a-5fc2-0457c9f42b18@pobox.com>
That Vaseline trick works for engines also, I used it for years.
*Never be beaten by equipment.*
On Wed, Mar 7, 2018 at 12:41 PM, Larry Young via Fot
wrote:
> It seems like the balls and springs (pump, operating valve) are always a
> problem. I've seen all sorts of suggestions and tried many of them. Lapping
> the ball seat sounds like a good idea. I've always used the smack the ball
> with a hammer trick. I don't know how to test those little springs and I
> don't trust that the ones we buy are correct. Rather than worrying about
> air leakage, a better test is probably to see how long the unit holds
> pressure after you shut it down. I had one that would hold pressure for
> days, but most will only hold pressure for a number of minutes to perhaps
> an hour.
>
> One problem I have frequently had is that the unit will not pressure up
> after I put oil in it. I've always thought it was because of all the air
> in the lines. I developed an assembly method to make sure I got oil pumped
> at each step. You could also use it as a troubleshooting method. You might
> check it out starting at Step 15 in http://vintagetriumphregister.
> org/maintain/TransRebuild/OverDriveA02.pdf. Another trick I've heard is
> to put Vaseline jelly in the pump to help it get started.
> - Larry
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Wed Mar 7 15:09:38 2018
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2018 17:09:38 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
References: <7DF32ACB-8C68-45A3-9654-C743E3FB3C1A@icloud.com>
<1967427720.8517669.1520273071794@mail.yahoo.com>
<6fe08f9a-6662-ff7a-5fc2-0457c9f42b18@pobox.com>
Larry's step 15 to ensure the pump get's primed is key. Saves lots of
aggravation on the test stand.
You can't really know what is going on without a pressure gauge, I got
mine from Jay Holekamp. Works just fine.
jholekamp at sbcglobal.net
http://www.geocities.ws/jholekamp/
h
On 2018-03-07 15:41, Larry Young via Fot wrote:
>
> One problem I have frequently had is that the unit will not pressure
> up after I put oil in it.? I've always thought it was because of all
> the air in the lines. I developed an assembly method to make sure I
> got oil pumped at each step. You could also use it as a
> troubleshooting method. You might check it out starting at Step 15 in
> http://vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/TransRebuild/OverDriveA02.pdf.
> Another trick I've heard is to put Vaseline jelly in the pump to help
> it get started.
From ac at camoletti.ch Wed Mar 7 16:14:23 2018
From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti)
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2018 00:14:23 +0100
Subject: [Fot] Type A OD pressure test
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From tr4abrad at gmail.com Wed Mar 7 17:21:56 2018
From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 16:21:56 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads
Hello Amici,
Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I
dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire.
I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the
venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been buying
brake pads for these cars for over 35 years.
I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as well.
The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound shape was
not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or what is shown on
Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining pin holes in the puck to
be too small. The puck itself is the same general dimension as my original
Girling Competition pad and does fit in the caliper but I cannot put the
pins through the holes.
I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling 16PB or
M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins.
8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we
still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad "for 25
years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or complained.
When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown on their website as
the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a general illustration and
not correct for any specific application.
They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. I am
honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out of the box and
to have to argue the point back and forth through multiple Emails and a
terse phone call.
So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early TR6
and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are:
1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers?
2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin?
3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them out
yourself?
4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo attached)?
5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any speed
secrets, of course...
I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my pins,
pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just shouldn't have to
come to that with a reputable company from my view...
Your thoughts and experience are appreciated.
??
Thanks!
*Brad Eells*
*Chino CA*
*#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
*#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
*1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Wed Mar 7 18:51:48 2018
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 20:51:48 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads
References:
Love the Porterfields, never had a problem.
Did somewhere along the line someone switch calipers? I know some are 3/16 and some 1/4 holes.
I drilled out all my spares to 1/4 inch, all the same size. Less spares to carry.
Be careful with calipers, the P and PB use a slightly different mounting bolt. Memory escapes me as to the particulars.
Good luck.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Brad Eells via Fot
To: fot
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 7:21 PM
Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads
Hello Amici,
Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire.
I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years.
I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes.
I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins.
8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a general illustration and not correct for any specific application.
They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through multiple Emails and a terse phone call.
So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are:
1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers?
2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin?
3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them out yourself?
4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo attached)?
5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any speed secrets, of course...
I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my view...
Your thoughts and experience are appreciated.
??
Thanks!
Brad Eells
Chino CA
#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4
#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3
1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com
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From sjanzen at me.com Wed Mar 7 18:55:32 2018
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 20:55:32 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads
References:
I run 16Ps on my GT6 and have used Hawk, Porterfield and my current favorite - something that Ted sells, can?t remember the name. In most cases in the past few years, I?ve had to egg out the holes for the 1/4? pins with a drill.
Mine typically look like the photo of the new one you have on the right. I think the pads are ?shared? with the Datsun 240z and they probably fit fine on that car.
On Mar 7, 2018, at 7:21 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote:
Hello Amici,
Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire.
I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years.
I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes.
I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins.
8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a general illustration and not correct for any specific application.
They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through multiple Emails and a terse phone call.
So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are:
1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers?
2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin?
3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them out yourself?
4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo attached)?
5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any speed secrets, of course...
I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my view...
Your thoughts and experience are appreciated.
??
Thanks!
Brad Eells
Chino CA
#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4
#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3
1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr4abrad at gmail.com Wed Mar 7 19:15:33 2018
From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 18:15:33 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
Scott,
Engineer Tim mentioned the 240Z connection. This leads me to believe the
pads were designed for a Japanese knock off of the original 16P like so
many other parts of the car. Likely built to a metric size that leads to a
slightly undersized retaining pin hole.
I am amazed that apparently no one has ever mentioned it to Porterfield...
Thanks,
Brad
*Brad Eells*
*Chino CA*
*#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
*#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
*1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*
On Wed, Mar 7, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Scott Janzen wrote:
> I run 16Ps on my GT6 and have used Hawk, Porterfield and my current
> favorite - something that Ted sells, can?t remember the name. In most
> cases in the past few years, I?ve had to egg out the holes for the 1/4?
> pins with a drill.
> Mine typically look like the photo of the new one you have on the right.
> I think the pads are ?shared? with the Datsun 240z and they probably fit
> fine on that car.
>
> On Mar 7, 2018, at 7:21 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote:
>
> Hello Amici,
>
> Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I
> dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire.
>
> I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the
> venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been buying
> brake pads for these cars for over 35 years.
>
> I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as well.
> The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound shape was
> not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or what is shown on
> Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining pin holes in the puck to
> be too small. The puck itself is the same general dimension as my original
> Girling Competition pad and does fit in the caliper but I cannot put the
> pins through the holes.
>
> I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling 16PB or
> M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins.
>
> 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we
> still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad "for 25
> years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or complained.
> When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown on their website as
> the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a general illustration and
> not correct for any specific application.
>
> They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. I
> am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out of the box
> and to have to argue the point back and forth through multiple Emails and a
> terse phone call.
>
> So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early TR6
> and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are:
>
> 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers?
>
> 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin?
>
> 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them out
> yourself?
>
> 4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo attached)?
>
> 5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any
> speed secrets, of course...
>
> I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my pins,
> pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just shouldn't have to
> come to that with a reputable company from my view...
>
> Your thoughts and experience are appreciated.
>
>
>
>
> ??
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> *Brad Eells*
> *Chino CA*
> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
> *#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>
>
>
>
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From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Wed Mar 7 19:59:25 2018
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 20:59:25 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads
I have used all sorts of brake pads for my 16p caliper on my 69 TR6, Porterfield, Hawks, LBC, and others from ceramic to semi metallic. I always plan to drill them out, sometimes
I get what I think are pads for 16PB, which I think have smaller holes. I've had problems with the height being to tall and not sliding in the caliper, some being different
thickness and having trouble inserting them. I always plan to modify them to make them fit, sometimes I've had to reshim the caliper mount to move it over a few thousands to
center it. I just think of it as part of making the brakes work. I'm now doing mine twice a year, must be going faster or braking harder!
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
On Wed 07/03/18 4:21 PM , Brad Eells via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent:
> Hello Amici,
> Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I
> dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire.
> I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the
> venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been
> buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years.
> I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as
> well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound
> shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or
> what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining
> pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same
> general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit
> in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes.
> I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling
> 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins.
> 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we
> still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad
> "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or
> complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown
> on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a
> general illustration and not correct for any specific application.
> They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins.
> I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out
> of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through
> multiple Emails and a terse phone call.
> So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early
> TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are:
> 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers?
> 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin?
> 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them
> out yourself?
> 4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo
> attached)?
> 5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any
> speed secrets, of course...
> I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my
> pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just
> shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my
> view...
> Your thoughts and experience are appreciated.
> ??
>
> Thanks!
>
> BRAD EELLSCHINO CA#35 DP 1962 TRIUMPH TR4#76 FP 1969 TRIUMPH SPITFIRE
> MK31965 TRIUMPH TR4A IRS...FOR THE ROAD!
>
>
From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Mar 7 21:24:42 2018
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 20:24:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
Good mentioning the mounting bolt difference of the P and PB calipers, Bill. The shoulder is metric to fit the PB caliper, but the thread is standard. Go figure.
I have the PB calipers on my TR3.
The PB (metric) calipers do have a 3/16", or perhaps metric equivalent pin. They also have an improved/sturdier dust boot that doesn't deteriorate from heat like on the P caliper.
Brad, just drill out the pad holes to 1/4" and be done with it.
I opened the pin holes in my PB calipers to 1/4" and have had to opened the holes in pads as well.
I have my second set of Carbotech, ( I think X6 compound ) pads in now. I started with Hawk Blue. The Hawk pads seemed to have a quicker bite, but didn't last very long and made a lot of dust. They also seemed to be very hard on the rotors. That could have been related to the aftermarket rotor quality that I used initially. I've since been using Brembo. The Carbotech/Brembo setup wears very nice and evenly. I'd like to try the Hawks again with the Brembo rotors.
BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new. That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I can rebuild at my leisure.
Dave H.
> On March 7, 2018 at 6:15 PM Brad Eells via Fot wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> Engineer Tim mentioned the 240Z connection. This leads me to believe the pads were designed for a Japanese knock off of the original 16P like so many other parts of the car. Likely built to a metric size that leads to a slightly undersized retaining pin hole.
>
> I am amazed that apparently no one has ever mentioned it to Porterfield...
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Brad
>
>
> Brad Eells
> Chino CA
> #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4
> #76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3
> 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 7, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Scott Janzen wrote:
>
> > > I run 16Ps on my GT6 and have used Hawk, Porterfield and my current favorite - something that Ted sells, can?t remember the name. In most cases in the past few years, I?ve had to egg out the holes for the 1/4? pins with a drill.
> > Mine typically look like the photo of the new one you have on the right. I think the pads are ?shared? with the Datsun 240z and they probably fit fine on that car.
> >
> > On Mar 7, 2018, at 7:21 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote:
> > Hello Amici,
> >
> > Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire.
> >
> > I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years.
> >
> > I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes.
> >
> > I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins.
> >
> > 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a general illustration and not correct for any specific application.
> >
> > They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins. I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through multiple Emails and a terse phone call.
> >
> > So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are:
> >
> > 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers?
> >
> > 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin?
> >
> > 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them out yourself?
> >
> > 4. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo attached)?
> >
> > 5. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any speed secrets, of course...
> >
> > I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my view...
> >
> > Your thoughts and experience are appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
> > Brad Eells
> > Chino CA
> > #35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4
> > #76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3
> > 1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
>
>
>
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From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Mar 7 21:28:41 2018
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 20:28:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Fot] Trouble with Porterfield Brake Pads
References: <53700.1520477965@mitchelplumbing.com>
Yes! I had to shim my rotors because the inside pad would not fit. Total PITA. Shimming the caliper is a breeze with factory shims.
DH
> On March 7, 2018 at 6:59 PM Charly via Fot wrote:
>
>
> I have used all sorts of brake pads for my 16p caliper on my 69 TR6, Porterfield, Hawks, LBC, and others from ceramic to semi metallic. I always plan to drill them out, sometimes
> I get what I think are pads for 16PB, which I think have smaller holes. I've had problems with the height being to tall and not sliding in the caliper, some being different
> thickness and having trouble inserting them. I always plan to modify them to make them fit, sometimes I've had to reshim the caliper mount to move it over a few thousands to
> center it. I just think of it as part of making the brakes work. I'm now doing mine twice a year, must be going faster or braking harder!
> Charly Mitchel
> TR6 #44
>
> On Wed 07/03/18 4:21 PM , Brad Eells via Fot fot at autox.team mailto:fot at autox.team .net sent:
>
> > > Hello Amici,
> > Porterfield brake pads in the R4-1 compound were recommended to me. I
> > dutifully ordered a set for my Spitfire.
> > I should mention the car has been upgraded to GT6 brake calipers, the
> > venerable Girling 16P. My TR4 and 4A also use the 16P. I have been
> > buying brake pads for these cars for over 35 years.
> > I have had my calipers rebuilt and purchased new retaining pins as
> > well. The Porterfield pads arrived. I found 2 issues. The pad compound
> > shape was not the same as every pad I have previously purchased or
> > what is shown on Porterfield's website. I also found the retaining
> > pin holes in the puck to be too small. The puck itself is the same
> > general dimension as my original Girling Competition pad and does fit
> > in the caliper but I cannot put the pins through the holes.
> > I simply assumed they had sent pads for the later GT6, the Girling
> > 16PB or M16PB that use 3/16" retaining pins.
> > 8 Emails with manager, Wendy and 1 phone call with engineer Tim and we
> > still have a disagreement. I was told they had sold that exact pad
> > "for 25 years" for my application and no one had ever had a problem or
> > complained. When I asked why I couldn't simply have what was shown
> > on their website as the pad for the 16P, I was told that was just a
> > general illustration and not correct for any specific application.
> > They have offered to drill out the retaining pin holes to fit my pins.
> > I am honestly disappointed that I simply can't have what fits out
> > of the box and to have to argue the point back and forth through
> > multiple Emails and a terse phone call.
> > So, my questions to those of you running a 16P (late TR3 through early
> > TR6 and GT6 1968-72 along with many other British applications) are:
> > 1. Are you using Porterfield pads in your calipers?
> > 2. Have you found them to fit the standard 1/4" retaining pin?
> > 3. If you have found them to not fit the pins, are you drilling them
> >
> > out yourself?
> > 1. Does the difference in pad shape concern you at all (photo
> >
> > attached)?
> > 1. If not Porterfield, then what are you using? Without divulging any
> >
> > speed secrets, of course...
> > I'm close enough to their facility that I can appear there with my
> > pins, pads and calipers to prove what they disbelieve...it just
> > shouldn't have to come to that with a reputable company from my
> > view...
> > Your thoughts and experience are appreciated.
> >
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > BRAD EELLSCHINO CA#35 DP 1962 TRIUMPH TR4#76 FP 1969 TRIUMPH SPITFIRE
> > MK31965 TRIUMPH TR4A IRS...FOR THE ROAD!
> >
> > > _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team mailto:fot at autox.team .net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
>
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From yellow04 at tr4racer.com Thu Mar 8 03:54:27 2018
From: yellow04 at tr4racer.com (yellow04 at tr4racer.com)
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2018 05:54:27 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
alone my race car.
Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
calipers.
Henry
On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
>
> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
> can rebuild at my leisure.
From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Thu Mar 8 05:54:09 2018
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 06:54:09 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
Description below:
This is a 100% Brand New Caliper with Stainless Steel 316 Pistons in the 16P Style for Triumph TR3B,
TR4,TR4A from CT4690 (wire wheels) & CT4388 (steel wheels),TR250, TR6 to (CC81078) 8/72, Why go
through the trouble of having calipers pistons done in 316 Stainless, because it is the best! 316
Grade Stainless is Marine grade stainless steel which give a higher level of finish compared to other
stainless steel. And Marine grade has a higher leved of Molybdenum which means better corrosion
resistant to sea water and chloride (Road Salt). And to top it off the 316 Grade Stainless Steel has
a greater thermal barrier, which keeps the heat out of your brake fluid
I have purchased a pair of the reproduction calipers when I cooked my 16p set. I used them one
weekend and I didn't like the feel compared to the real ones. I rebuilt my 16p's and put the copies
on a differnt car. Them seem to be okay on that car, maybe because I'm not using them as hard.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
On Thu 08/03/18 2:54 AM , Henry Frye via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent:
> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
> alone my race car.
>
> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
>
> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
> calipers.
>
> Henry
>
> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
> >
> > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for
> around $100 each new.> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important
> part. I purchased> another set when I thought I might be having a
> problem, but ended up> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair
> standing by. Then I> can rebuild at my leisure.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.
> team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums:
http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ch
> arly at mitchelplumbing.com
>
>
>
>
From fubog1 at aol.com Thu Mar 8 06:53:21 2018
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 08:53:21 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers? a few thoughts
References: <34997.1520513649@mitchelplumbing.com>
I've been using the repro Moss calipers for a few years now, no problems so far but I notice that they seem to maybe have a little more seal retraction than the originals.
(I suspect that there may be some difference in the seal design due to the fact that that piston retraction is a function of the seal but this is only speculation, I haven't torn one down yet for inspection.)
I haven't had reports of any problems with them operationally, FWIW.
The big/small pin differences have been noted.
Also the photo previously posted showed 2 different pads, one a full rectangular shape and the other tapered. These cars need the tapered pads to avoid uneven wear on the pads, it runs hotter & wears more towards the outer edge so less material as it gets closer to the axle evens out the wear (taper)...
(note taper not to be confused with some pads designed with front to rear taper)
Glen
-----Original Message-----
From: Charly via Fot
To: fot
Sent: Thu, Mar 8, 2018 8:11 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
Description below:
This is a 100% Brand New Caliper with Stainless Steel 316 Pistons in the 16P Style for Triumph TR3B,
TR4,TR4A from CT4690 (wire wheels) & CT4388 (steel wheels),TR250, TR6 to (CC81078) 8/72, Why go
through the trouble of having calipers pistons done in 316 Stainless, because it is the best! 316
Grade Stainless is Marine grade stainless steel which give a higher level of finish compared to other
stainless steel. And Marine grade has a higher leved of Molybdenum which means better corrosion
resistant to sea water and chloride (Road Salt). And to top it off the 316 Grade Stainless Steel has
a greater thermal barrier, which keeps the heat out of your brake fluid
I have purchased a pair of the reproduction calipers when I cooked my 16p set. I used them one
weekend and I didn't like the feel compared to the real ones. I rebuilt my 16p's and put the copies
on a differnt car. Them seem to be okay on that car, maybe because I'm not using them as hard.
Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44
On Thu 08/03/18 2:54 AM , Henry Frye via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent:
> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
> alone my race car.
>
> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
>
> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
> calipers.
>
> Henry
>
> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
> >
> > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for
> around $100 each new.> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important
> part. I purchased> another set when I thought I might be having a
> problem, but ended up> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair
> standing by. Then I> can rebuild at my leisure.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.
> team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums:
http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ch
> arly at mitchelplumbing.com
>
>
>
>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From dlhogye at comcast.net Thu Mar 8 09:09:57 2018
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 08:09:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed.
The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality.
My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles.
Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes.
DH
> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote:
>
>
> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
> alone my race car.
>
> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
>
> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
> calipers.
>
> Henry
>
> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
> >
> > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
> > That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
> > another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
> > just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
> > can rebuild at my leisure.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
>
>
From sjanzen at me.com Thu Mar 8 09:21:31 2018
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 11:21:31 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed.
The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality.
My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles.
Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes.
DH
> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote:
>
>
> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
> alone my race car.
>
> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
>
> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
> calipers.
>
> Henry
>
> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
>>
>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
>> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
>> can rebuild at my leisure.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
>
>
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From dlhogye at comcast.net Thu Mar 8 09:27:46 2018
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 08:27:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
<39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com>
Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers.
DH
> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote:
>
> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
>
> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
>
> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed.
> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality.
> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles.
> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes.
>
> DH
>
> > > On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
> > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
> > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
> > alone my race car.
> >
> > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
> >
> > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
> > calipers.
> >
> > Henry
> >
> > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
> >
> > > > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
> > > That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
> > > another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
> > > just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
> > > can rebuild at my leisure.
> > >
> > > > > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
> >
> >
> >
> > > _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>
>
>
>
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From triosan at gmail.com Thu Mar 8 09:51:46 2018
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 08:51:46 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
I have a set of cores needing rebuilding and a rebuild kit if someone wants
them.
On Mar 8, 2018 8:34 AM, "DAVE HOGYE via Fot" wrote:
> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as
> needed.
> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish
> with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have
> a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about
> the quality.
> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of
> 3,800 miles.
> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far
> as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete
> comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the
> importance of good brakes.
>
> DH
> > On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
> > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
> > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
> > alone my race car.
> >
> > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
> >
> > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
> > calipers.
> >
> > Henry
> >
> > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
> > >
> > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
> > > That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
> > > another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
> > > just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
> > > can rebuild at my leisure.
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/triosan at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From tr4racing at googlemail.com Thu Mar 8 10:26:05 2018
From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 18:26:05 +0100
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
<39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com>
<1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com>
I?m still using the original brakes the car came with.
I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me.
Cheers
Chris
Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28
An: Scott Janzen
Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers.
DH
good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed.
The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality.
My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles.
Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes.
DH
I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
alone my race car.
Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
calipers.
Henry
On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
can rebuild at my leisure.
_______________________________________________
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Mar 8 12:43:06 2018
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 19:43:06 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
<39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com>
<1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com>
<00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com>
And your cooling fins?
Scott
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Marx via Fot
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2018 11:26 AM
To: fot at autox. team. net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
I?m still using the original brakes the car came with.
I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me.
Cheers
Chris
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers.
DH
good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed.
The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality.
My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles.
Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes.
DH
I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
alone my race car.
Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
calipers.
Henry
On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
can rebuild at my leisure.
_______________________________________________
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From paulricco at att.net Thu Mar 8 12:49:36 2018
From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 13:49:36 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
<39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com>
<1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com>
<00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com>
We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good.
It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events.
Paul
> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote:
>
> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with.
> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28
> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
>
> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers.
>
> DH
>>
>> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
>> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
>>
>>
>> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed.
>> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality.
>> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles.
>> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes.
>>
>> DH
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
>>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
>>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
>>> alone my race car.
>>>
>>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
>>>
>>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
>>> calipers.
>>>
>>> Henry
>>>
>>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
>>>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
>>>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
>>>> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
>>>> can rebuild at my leisure.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net
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From johnstydo at gmail.com Thu Mar 8 15:08:58 2018
From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 17:08:58 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
<39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com>
<1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com>
<00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com>
<141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net>
The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And
they do that at each gridding.
On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot
wrote:
> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech
> brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all
> seems to be working good.
>
> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front
> suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage
> organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that
> do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made
> a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events.
>
> Paul
>
>
> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot
> wrote:
>
> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with.
> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me.
>
> Cheers
> Chris
>
> *Von:* Fot *Im Auftrag von *DAVE HOGYE via
> Fot
> *Gesendet:* Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28
> *An:* Scott Janzen
> *Cc:* Friends of Triumph' Triumph
> *Betreff:* Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
>
> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look
> very similar to the the P or PB calipers.
>
> DH
>
> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote:
>
> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you
> need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design
> and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase
> in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
>
> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot
> wrote:
>
> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as
> needed.
> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish
> with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have
> a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about
> the quality.
> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of
> 3,800 miles.
> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far
> as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete
> comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the
> importance of good brakes.
>
> DH
>
> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote:
>
>
> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
> alone my race car.
>
> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
>
> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
> calipers.
>
> Henry
>
> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
>
>
> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
> can rebuild at my leisure.
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/paulricco at att.net
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
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From paulricco at att.net Thu Mar 8 16:04:55 2018
From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 17:04:55 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
<39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com>
<1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com>
<00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com>
<141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net>
John,
We really enjoy running SVRA events. We feel that they do a great job.
I will tell you that at the Road America event in the Spring, that the Wildwoods have been discouraged. There were a small group of cars in another class that had 6 piston Wildwoods. It is my understanding that they were given a 1 year pass and asked not to return with them in the future.
I respect SVRA for trying to take a stand on it. We do not like having too many rules and do not want this to become a formula class the way that many other forms of racing have gone. However, We feel that It really puts those that have tried adhere to the spirit of Vintage Racing at an unfair disadvantage when someone else has gone to that extreme of a modification.
Paul
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 8, 2018, at 4:08 PM, John Styduhar wrote:
>
> The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding.
>
>> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote:
>> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good.
>>
>> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events.
>>
>> Paul
>>
>>
>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote:
>>>
>>> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with.
>>> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot
>>> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28
>>> An: Scott Janzen
>>> Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph
>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
>>>
>>> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers.
>>>
>>> DH
>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote:
>>>>
>>>> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
>>>> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
>>>>
>>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed.
>>>> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality.
>>>> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles.
>>>> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes.
>>>>
>>>> DH
>>>>
>>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
>>>>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
>>>>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
>>>>> alone my race car.
>>>>>
>>>>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
>>>>>
>>>>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
>>>>> calipers.
>>>>>
>>>>> Henry
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
>>>>>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
>>>>>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
>>>>>> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
>>>>>> can rebuild at my leisure.
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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From billdentin at aol.com Thu Mar 8 19:59:31 2018
From: billdentin at aol.com (billdentin at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 18:59:31 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
<39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com>
<1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com>
<00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com>
<141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net>
Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race.
Bill Dentinger
PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote:
>
> The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding.
>
>> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote:
>> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good.
>>
>> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events.
>>
>> Paul
>>
>>
>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote:
>>>
>>> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with.
>>> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot
>>> Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28
>>> An: Scott Janzen
>>> Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph
>>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
>>>
>>> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers.
>>>
>>> DH
>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote:
>>>>
>>>> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
>>>> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
>>>>
>>>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed.
>>>> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality.
>>>> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles.
>>>> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes.
>>>>
>>>> DH
>>>>
>>>>> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
>>>>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
>>>>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
>>>>> alone my race car.
>>>>>
>>>>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
>>>>>
>>>>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
>>>>> calipers.
>>>>>
>>>>> Henry
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
>>>>>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
>>>>>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
>>>>>> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
>>>>>> can rebuild at my leisure.
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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>
>
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From dlhogye at comcast.net Thu Mar 8 22:39:53 2018
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 21:39:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
<39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com>
<1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com>
Excuse me Friends, the Wilwood calipers that I mentioned are for a Formula Ford. They look similar to the earlier TR3 calipers, not the later P calipers, but they are two piston. They have similar 3.5" mounting hole spacing as a TR, but other specs are not similar and they are for a .38" width rotor.
DH
> On March 8, 2018 at 8:27 AM DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
>
>
> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers.
>
>
> DH
>
> > > On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote:
> >
> > good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
> > Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
> >
> > On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
> >
> > The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed.
> > The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality.
> > My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles.
> > Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes.
> >
> > DH
> >
> > > > > On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
> > > somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
> > > about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
> > > alone my race car.
> > >
> > > Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
> > >
> > > As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
> > > calipers.
> > >
> > > Henry
> > >
> > > On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
> > >
> > > > > > > BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
> > > > That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
> > > > another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
> > > > just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
> > > > can rebuild at my leisure.
> > > >
> > > > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net
> > >
> > > http://www.fot-racing.com
> > >
> > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net
> >
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
>
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>
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From kaskastner at gmail.com Thu Mar 8 22:46:25 2018
From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner)
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2018 21:46:25 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
<39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com>
<1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com>
<00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com>
<141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net>
<8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com>
In the 50's to early 70's days of the California Sports Car Club, if you
were caught, and many were, with parts or items that were not allowed you
were given a chance to defend yourself at the Contest Board meeting (once a
month) and if they found proof you were guilty as charged, you lost your
license for a YEAR. That's it, you did not race for a year in any class.
I ran the Rules Enforcement group and was on the Contest Board which
consisted of current drivers in several classes. It was found most of the
cheating took place from about 6th place back to about 10th place. Nothing
much before that position or after the 10th place. Some entrants never
understood that other drivers REALLY were FAST and thus they thought the
leaders were the cheaters and that just was not true at all. Interesting.
No one wanted to have the name "cheater" attached to their name. Several
cars were checked each race by lottery for cubic capacity, weight, gears
ratios, body panels and other major parts. It was pretty pure racing.
*Never be beaten by equipment.*
On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 6:59 PM, Bill Dentinger via Fot
wrote:
> Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of
> tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag
> after one lap in the Feature Race.
>
> Bill Dentinger
>
> PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature
> race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but
> must have a minimum tread depth.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot
> wrote:
>
> The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And
> they do that at each gridding.
>
> On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot
> wrote:
>
>> We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech
>> brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all
>> seems to be working good.
>>
>> It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front
>> suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage
>> organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that
>> do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made
>> a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events.
>>
>> Paul
>>
>>
>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot
>> wrote:
>>
>> I?m still using the original brakes the car came with.
>> I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Chris
>>
>> *Von:* Fot *Im Auftrag von *DAVE HOGYE via
>> Fot
>> *Gesendet:* Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28
>> *An:* Scott Janzen
>> *Cc:* Friends of Triumph' Triumph
>> *Betreff:* Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
>>
>> Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look
>> very similar to the the P or PB calipers.
>>
>> DH
>>
>> On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote:
>>
>> good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you
>> need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
>> Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material,
>> design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no
>> increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
>>
>> On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot
>> wrote:
>>
>> The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as
>> needed.
>> The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish
>> with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have
>> a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about
>> the quality.
>> My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of
>> 3,800 miles.
>> Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I
>> far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete
>> comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the
>> importance of good brakes.
>>
>> DH
>>
>> On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
>> somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
>> about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
>> alone my race car.
>>
>> Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
>>
>> As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
>> calipers.
>>
>> Henry
>>
>> On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
>>
>>
>> BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
>> That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
>> another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
>> just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
>> can rebuild at my leisure.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/
>> fot/dlhogye at comcast.net
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/
>> fot/sjanzen at me.com
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/
>> fot/paulricco at att.net
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/fot/billdentin at aol.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
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From tlizzard at msn.com Fri Mar 9 05:00:33 2018
From: tlizzard at msn.com (Terry Stetler)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 12:00:33 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
<39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com>
<1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com>
<00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com>
<141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net>
<8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com>,
Normally I don?t step into these conversations, but at this point I think a more appropriate term for vintage racing is now ?Formula Libra?.
Just sayin?.
Terry Stetler
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
________________________________
From: Fot on behalf of Kas Kastner via Fot
Sent: Friday, March 9, 2018 12:46:25 AM
To: BillDentin at aol.com
Cc: fot at autox. team. net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
In the 50's to early 70's days of the California Sports Car Club, if you were caught, and many were, with parts or items that were not allowed you were given a chance to defend yourself at the Contest Board meeting (once a month) and if they found proof you were guilty as charged, you lost your license for a YEAR. That's it, you did not race for a year in any class.
I ran the Rules Enforcement group and was on the Contest Board which consisted of current drivers in several classes. It was found most of the cheating took place from about 6th place back to about 10th place. Nothing much before that position or after the 10th place. Some entrants never understood that other drivers REALLY were FAST and thus they thought the leaders were the cheaters and that just was not true at all. Interesting. No one wanted to have the name "cheater" attached to their name. Several cars were checked each race by lottery for cubic capacity, weight, gears ratios, body panels and other major parts. It was pretty pure racing.
Never be beaten by equipment.
Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race.
Bill Dentinger
PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth.
Sent from my iPhone
The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding.
We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good.
It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events.
Paul
I?m still using the original brakes the car came with.
I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me.
Cheers
Chris
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers.
DH
good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed.
The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality.
My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles.
Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes.
DH
I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
alone my race car.
Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
calipers.
Henry
On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
can rebuild at my leisure.
_______________________________________________
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Fri Mar 9 06:42:24 2018
From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 07:42:24 -0600
Subject: [Fot] 2018 Kastner Cup
References: <8A082417-D5BB-40F6-9696-76DB44198D9C@voyagerhldgs.com>
<4DCCE280-BD3E-4547-BCF3-096E2507B878@voyagerhldgs.com>
Jim, I never got it.
Mark Bradakis, could you send this out for us? Mark, I will be in Salt Lake City in May. Maybe we could talk about we could do about the List.
I have a couple ideas.
If you come to the KCup, will you drive or fly?
Thanks.
Joe Alexander
4505 Donald Dr
Cedar Falls, IA 50613
The-vintage-racer.com
Gasketinnovations.com
Cell: 319.464.4711
> On Mar 9, 2018, at 7:33 AM, James J Dolan wrote:
>
> I sent this message to the FoT mailbox on Tuesday.
> So far, it has not come out to me or anyone I know.
>
> What does one do to get this to happen with the club FoT list?
>
> From: James Dolan
> Date: Tuesday, March 6, 2018 at 4:47 PM
> To: Fot
> Subject: 2018 Kastner Cup
>
> FoT Members,
>
> Our plans for the 2018 Kastner Cup are on schedule and coming along well.
> Here is an update and it is time to REGISTER
>
> Kastner Cup Race
> This year?s event will be held in conjunction with the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix.
> The dates are July 6th ? 7th ? 8h 2018.
> The Kastner Cup race will be held Saturday afternoon around 4:00 pm.
> It is scheduled to be a 40-minute race, so plan your tires accordingly.
>
> Track
> Our host track will be Pittsburgh International Raceway, a 2.9 mile track located about 35 miles north of Pittsburgh. For track details and information, visit: www.pittrace.com
> Pitt Race is an excellent facility, with large run off areas, a 100 foot elevation change, two long straights, paved paddocks, clean bathrooms and shower facilities. I think you will find it a great facility for our event.
> To get a feel for the track visit: https://www.flickr.com/photos/pittsburghvintagegrandprix/sets/72157685891790982/ and there is a on track video of a ?64 Spitfire at the PVGP Kastner Cup registration page below.
>
> Registration
> Registration is being done through the PVGP website.
> For registration details, information, and to register for the Kastner Cup, please visit: http://www.pvgp.org/drivers/kastner-cup/ .
> The actual application is at http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf .
> Note that the web site registration is payment only, you will need to mail in the completed application with your Medicals.
> The actual application is at http://www.pvgp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/2018-PVGP-Racer-Application-PDF.pdf.
> Please note we have a $35 fee to register for the Kastner Cup race and this will help defer some of the event expenses.
> Take the time to register now so we can get a handle on the number of cars. There is a lot of information on the PVGP.org web site
> Hotel
> Host hotel is Comfort Inn ? Cranberry Township 924 Sheraton Drive, Mars, PA, 16046 Phone: (724) 772-2700.
> We secured a room rate of $89/night.
> Tell them you are with the Kastner Cup to get the proper rate.
>
> Poster
> The 2018 Kastner Cup poster is complete and looks great.
>
>
>
> Tee Shirts
> The Western PA Triumph Association is helping with tee shirts and support for the Kastner Cup weekend.
> An email has gone out to the FoT asking for orders and sizes. If you haven?t received the email you may email Jerry Van Vlack of WPTA at jerryvv at roadrunner.com .
>
> We plan to have special parking and show space for WPTA and Triumphs at Pitt Race (details to follow) for Saturday?s race.
>
> PVGP other events that may be of interest to you
> The PVGP runs two back to back race weekends.
> The second weekend is the following weekend July 14 & 15 and is a street race in Pittsburgh?s Schenley Park. This race runs on 2.33 miles of Pittsburgh city streets in Schenley Park and is the longest running vintage street race in America. For photos of the event visit: https://www.flickr.com/photos/pittsburghvintagegrandprix/sets/72157687618417183/ and https://www.flickr.com/photos/pittsburghvintagegrandprix/sets/72157686717704321/.
> We have arranged for any Triumph driver entering both weekends to receive a free entry into the Axis vs. Allies race at Schenley on Saturday, July 14 (a $75 value). This special race on Saturday pits the British cars against the German and Italian cars.
> For more information on registering for the Schenley Park weekend visit: http://www.pvgp.org/drivers/ . Be sure to add yourself to the Axis vs. Allies race. We can arrange for storage of race car trailers for drivers running both weekends.
>
> This is shaping up to be an excellent event and I look forward to seeing you in July.
>
> Please forward any questions or comments to me at jdolan at voyagerhldgs.com.
>
> 2018 Kastner Cup Committee
>
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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Fri Mar 9 07:06:51 2018
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 09:06:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
References:
<5D3AFB4D-C6F8-490A-8208-12C4A604FA08@me.com>
<496193370.404774.1520483083250@connect.xfinity.com>
<1322324899.177432.1520525397543@connect.xfinity.com>
<39824744-DEB7-48F7-94BA-343E99425A24@me.com>
<1346618642.364769.1520526467307@connect.xfinity.com>
<00b501d3b702$8aed9540$a0c8bfc0$@gmail.com>
<141E5239-4C18-4225-AE0E-BFE10DB690DC@att.net>
<8B196567-7CEA-420C-9D89-7CAE21DE320E@aol.com>
Bill, if all the cheaters in vintage were black flagged, half the field wouldn't finish! Cheaters is a harsh word; non-compliant sounds better.
I know of guys with mid-50's Corvettes, and one T Bird, who run big disc brakes, not the original drums. One of whom runs a vintage organization!!!!!!
Also, I like Tony but a 9 inch Ford diff in a TR4? All vintage rules say the diff housing has to be stock.
I also like Sam, who's given me a lot of advice over the years, but is his car truely vintage legal? Frankly, I don't care.
This will probably get me blackballed, but....
I also don't give a hoot what you run or how legal it is or isn't. Just go out and have fun.
I've gotten 1 (one) medal in 11 years of vintage racing; not a very successful effort, you might say. (so would I!). But I've had an 'effen blast! And met a bunch of great people. And did what I set out to do.
OK, I wrote this last night and thought I'd sleep on it. After reading the comment about Formula Libra, I guess other people feel as I do.
Were all the cars running today raced "back in the day" or were they built to go vintage racing today?
Ever see a tech inspector crawl under your car and check to see if the drain plugs were safety wired? Or check brakes or diffs?
Full disclosure: I run a Celica 5 speed, legal according to the rules. Hitachi carbs (the Japs took SU's and improved them).
I don't like cheaters. I help with the Erie Marathon where 43% or our finishers qualified for the Boston Marathon, the goal of every good runner. The last couple years we ferreted out 3 cheaters. They will never, ever be allowed into the Boston Marathon. That's why I like running, kind of a pure sport where technology doesn't help you much.
OK, end of rant.
Hang loose. (I'm reading Brian Wilson's book, so I thought a surfing term would be ok!)
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Dentinger via Fot
To: John Styduhar
Cc: fot at autox. team. net
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2018 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
Good for SVRA. If I were the Vintage Grand Poo Pah, I would take a note of tire cheaters on the False Grid, and then bring em in with a Meat Ball Flag after one lap in the Feature Race.
Bill Dentinger
PS Three sets of tires needed. One for qualifying...one for the feature race...and a special set for Tech. That latter set can be experienced, but must have a minimum tread depth.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 8, 2018, at 2:08 PM, John Styduhar via Fot wrote:
The only item that SVRA regularly checks is tires from my experience. And they do that at each gridding.
On Thu, Mar 8, 2018 at 2:49 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot wrote:
We have not had issues with stock calipers. We run Hawk or Carbotech brake pads and good brake fluid. We do bleed the brakes regularly and all seems to be working good.
It would be nice to get the benefit of less unsprung weight on the front suspension by switching to aluminum. However, I do not know of any vintage organization that really allows it by their rules. We all know that that do not get enforced on a regular basis. However, I do think SVRA has made a great effort to get people to use a stock type caliper at their events.
Paul
On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote:
I?m still using the original brakes the car came with.
I?ve put in some nice brake pads and that is working well for me.
Cheers
Chris
Von: Fot Im Auftrag von DAVE HOGYE via Fot
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. M?rz 2018 17:28
An: Scott Janzen
Cc: Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Has anybody ran these new brake calipers?
Good call, Scott. The Wilwood calipers are aluminum, but otherwise look very similar to the the P or PB calipers.
DH
On March 8, 2018 at 8:21 AM Scott Janzen wrote:
good to check your club rules first though, if enforced. VRG says you need to use the original equipment, and SVRA says
Alternate calipers or wheel cylinders must be of the same material, design and number of pistons as the original component. There must be no increase in the frictional surface of the pads or shoes.
On Mar 8, 2018, at 11:09 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
The quality of the new calipers is somewhat suspect, but seem to work as needed.
The first pair that I bought from BPNW had a yellow (anodized ?) finish with numbers in the castings. The second pair from BPNW 4 years later have a silver finish and no numbers in the casting which made me wonder about the quality.
My first set has been on my car from 2013. 13 race weekends a total of 3,800 miles.
Wilwood makes beautiful replacements now. They are anodized black. I far as I can tell, they will fit our Triumphs, but haven't made a complete comparison. Of course the price is higher, but more equivalent to the importance of good brakes.
DH
On March 8, 2018 at 2:54 AM Henry Frye via Fot wrote:
I have seen these available for a while now, but fear they are made
somewhere we don't want to know from materials I don't want to think
about. I'm not brave enough to put one of these on a street car, let
alone my race car.
Has anybody tried these calipers yet? Any feedback???
As long as good cores are available for 16P's, I'm rebuilding OEM
calipers.
Henry
On 2018-03-07 23:24, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
BTW, the PB calipers are available new for around $100 each new.
That's pretty inexpensive for such an important part. I purchased
another set when I thought I might be having a problem, but ended up
just changing pads. I'm glad to have a new pair standing by. Then I
can rebuild at my leisure.
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From macdonaldp at rogers.com Fri Mar 9 08:28:26 2018
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2018 10:28:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Wedge Nomination
I would like to nominate Curt Johnston for membership. Curt is a long time
Triumph owner, lives in the San Francisco area and has found A Huffaker TR8
convertible that is now being restored at the Huffaker garages. Here are a
few words from Curt.
People will be interested to learn that we will have both No. 11 cars driven
by Lee Mueller at Monterey Car Week in August later this year (Carmel By The
Sea Concours on the Avenue). These are the black TR7 and 8 convertibles.
Lee also drove the silver TR7. In 2019, both cars should be at the Rolex
Monterey Motorsports Reunion. I wanted to wait a year on the historic
races, so I could get enough experience to drive it myself. Its going to be
really cool to see a couple of wedges at these events, and hopefully folks
outside the wedge community will understand why we like these cars so much
Pictures of his car are here