From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Mon Jan 1 13:31:31 2018 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2018 13:31:31 -0700 Subject: [Fot] oil line & cooler flush chems First, Happy New Year ! I hope everyone has a break free & leak free 2018. Anyhoo, I'm moving to my next stage of engine & oil cleanliness. In the next couple weeks I'm making a recirculating oil cooler and line cleaner with filtration. What I'm not sure about at this point is a suitable chemical to do the work. I've heard about kerosene but just thought I'd ask the collective for input. Currently I use my home made pressure cooker oil flusher/charger thingy. I made it so I can push pressurized, heated generic/low cost oil through all my lines and cooler just to get minor particulates out and then fill everything with new Valvoline 20/50. I have oil line taps throughout the system so I can pre-prime the accusump, lines & cooler and for pre-start up priming. Any thoughts on a suitable chemical or petrol product I could circulate without blowing things up ? Thanks as always, jim g -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Mon Jan 1 23:14:11 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2018 20:14:11 -1000 Subject: [Fot] oil line & cooler flush chems References: <00a201d3833f$82d5bbe0$888133a0$@comcast.net> I have to ask: Why? It seems you?d potentially do damage with whatever solvent you use being trapped somewhere it won?t drain from. Who does this? I?ve never heard of it as a racing practice. Might be a way to extend the life of high mileage engines, but even that seems unlikely. > On Jan 1, 2018, at 10:31 AM, Jim Gray via Fot wrote: > > First, Happy New Year ! > I hope everyone has a break free & leak free 2018. > Anyhoo, I?m moving to my next stage of engine & oil cleanliness. In the next couple weeks I?m making a recirculating oil cooler and line cleaner > with filtration. What I?m not sure about at this point is a suitable chemical to do the work. I?ve heard about kerosene but just thought I?d ask > the collective for input. > Currently I use my home made pressure cooker oil flusher/charger thingy. I made it so I can push pressurized, heated generic/low cost oil through all my lines and cooler > just to get minor particulates out and then fill everything with new Valvoline 20/50. I have oil line taps throughout the system so I can pre-prime the accusump, lines & cooler > and for pre-start up priming. > Any thoughts on a suitable chemical or petrol product I could circulate without blowing things up ? > > Thanks as always, > jim g > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Tue Jan 2 00:14:00 2018 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (Jim Gray) Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2018 00:14:00 -0700 Subject: [Fot] oil line & cooler flush chems References: <00a201d3833f$82d5bbe0$888133a0$@comcast.net> <1D2A421E-F02E-4CE7-A25C-8784595CADD2@ponostyle.com> Bill, I have equipped my oiling system so I can tap into it anywhere and force feed old oil out and new oil in. It?s really pretty painless and the reward has been cleaner, longer living motors. If your wondering who does this, pro race teams do it. http://www.hotflusher.com/performance.cfm?Page=6 I had a conversation about oil quality with Lake Speed about four years ago and have been a believer ever since . My brother races a Porsche 914 with -12 lines running to two mocal coolers in the front of the car. That system carries roughly four to five quarts in the coolers and the lines alone. Would you change the motor oil and leave all that old oil in there? We don?t. I say why wouldn?t you do it if your oiling system is set up to do it. I?m just adding a couple simple components to my pressure cooker oil charger and by the weekend will have a filtered recirculating flush system, so, why wouldn?t I do it? After the addition of the fluid pump and filter I?ll have about $ 150.00 invested in the system and about three hours labor. I consider it time & money well spent. jg From: Bill [mailto:Bill at ponostyle.com] Sent: Monday, January 1, 2018 11:14 PM To: Jim Gray Cc: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] oil line & cooler flush chems I have to ask: Why? It seems you?d potentially do damage with whatever solvent you use being trapped somewhere it won?t drain from. Who does this? I?ve never heard of it as a racing practice. Might be a way to extend the life of high mileage engines, but even that seems unlikely. First, Happy New Year ! I hope everyone has a break free & leak free 2018. Anyhoo, I?m moving to my next stage of engine & oil cleanliness. In the next couple weeks I?m making a recirculating oil cooler and line cleaner with filtration. What I?m not sure about at this point is a suitable chemical to do the work. I?ve heard about kerosene but just thought I?d ask the collective for input. Currently I use my home made pressure cooker oil flusher/charger thingy. I made it so I can push pressurized, heated generic/low cost oil through all my lines and cooler just to get minor particulates out and then fill everything with new Valvoline 20/50. I have oil line taps throughout the system so I can pre-prime the accusump, lines & cooler and for pre-start up priming. Any thoughts on a suitable chemical or petrol product I could circulate without blowing things up ? Thanks as always, jim g _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Tue Jan 2 07:23:04 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2018 09:23:04 -0500 Subject: [Fot] oil line & cooler flush chems References: <00a201d3833f$82d5bbe0$888133a0$@comcast.net> ?I use mineral spirits for parts cleaning and flushing out my oil cooler, accumulator and lines (after removal) but it's about $10 a gallon and flammable. Always air dry and check the flushing fluid for metal or ? That's as high-tech as I get with my TR. Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Mon, Jan 1, 2018 at 3:31 PM, Jim Gray via Fot wrote: > First, Happy New Year ! > > I hope everyone has a break free & leak free 2018. > > Anyhoo, I?m moving to my next stage of engine & oil cleanliness. In the > next couple weeks I?m making a recirculating oil cooler and line cleaner > > with filtration. What I?m not sure about at this point is a suitable > chemical to do the work. I?ve heard about kerosene but just thought I?d ask > > the collective for input. > > Currently I use my home made pressure cooker oil flusher/charger thingy. I > made it so I can push pressurized, heated generic/low cost oil through all > my lines and cooler > > just to get minor particulates out and then fill everything with new > Valvoline 20/50. I have oil line taps throughout the system so I can > pre-prime the accusump, lines & cooler > > and for pre-start up priming. > > Any thoughts on a suitable chemical or petrol product I could circulate > without blowing things up ? > > > > Thanks as always, > > jim g > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Tue Jan 2 11:21:02 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2018 08:21:02 -1000 Subject: [Fot] oil line & cooler flush chems References: <00a201d3833f$82d5bbe0$888133a0$@comcast.net> <1D2A421E-F02E-4CE7-A25C-8784595CADD2@ponostyle.com> <002301d38399$43e4cf20$cbae6d60$@comcast.net> That link is about flushing oil coolers and lines. It seems to me you?re talking about flushing your motor as well, which has all kinds of complicated traps that hold stuff. I?m not questioning the benefits of flushing external lines and coolers, but I don?t think I?d flush a motor. Mine get disassembled and cleaned pretty often as it is. > On Jan 1, 2018, at 9:14 PM, Jim Gray wrote: > > Bill, > I have equipped my oiling system so I can tap into it anywhere and force feed old oil out and new oil in. It?s really pretty painless and the reward has been cleaner, longer living motors. > If your wondering who does this, pro race teams do it. http://www.hotflusher.com/performance.cfm?Page=6 > I had a conversation about oil quality with Lake Speed about four years ago and have been a believer ever since . My brother races a Porsche 914 with -12 lines running to two mocal coolers > in the front of the car. That system carries roughly four to five quarts in the coolers and the lines alone. Would you change the motor oil and leave all that old oil in there? We don?t. > I say why wouldn?t you do it if your oiling system is set up to do it. I?m just adding a couple simple components to my pressure cooker oil charger and by the weekend > will have a filtered recirculating flush system, so, why wouldn?t I do it? After the addition of the fluid pump and filter I?ll have about $ 150.00 invested in the system > and about three hours labor. I consider it time & money well spent. > jg > > From: Bill [mailto:Bill at ponostyle.com] > Sent: Monday, January 1, 2018 11:14 PM > To: Jim Gray > Cc: fot > Subject: Re: [Fot] oil line & cooler flush chems > > I have to ask: Why? It seems you?d potentially do damage with whatever solvent you use being trapped somewhere it won?t drain from. Who does this? I?ve never heard of it as a racing practice. Might be a way to extend the life of high mileage engines, but even that seems unlikely. > > > >> >> First, Happy New Year ! >> I hope everyone has a break free & leak free 2018. >> Anyhoo, I?m moving to my next stage of engine & oil cleanliness. In the next couple weeks I?m making a recirculating oil cooler and line cleaner >> with filtration. What I?m not sure about at this point is a suitable chemical to do the work. I?ve heard about kerosene but just thought I?d ask >> the collective for input. >> Currently I use my home made pressure cooker oil flusher/charger thingy. I made it so I can push pressurized, heated generic/low cost oil through all my lines and cooler >> just to get minor particulates out and then fill everything with new Valvoline 20/50. I have oil line taps throughout the system so I can pre-prime the accusump, lines & cooler >> and for pre-start up priming. >> Any thoughts on a suitable chemical or petrol product I could circulate without blowing things up ? >> >> Thanks as always, >> jim g >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Tue Jan 2 16:51:26 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2018 18:51:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Victory Lane January 2018 Props to all those Triumph racers who got their photos in the VL publication for Jan 2018, including John Hasty, Jeff Snook, Sean Alexander and other TR racers. Great coverage for our marque. Also a great ad for the upcoming Kastner Cup at Pitt Race in July. Virus-free. www.avast.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jfrymark at aol.com Tue Jan 2 21:17:03 2018 From: jfrymark at aol.com (John Frymark) Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2018 22:17:03 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Oil line & cooler flush I was in the industrial cleaning industry for a while and the only effective oil cooler cleaning I knew of was done by immersion in an ultrasonic tank with a pressured flow through the cooler. The ultrasonic action dislodged particulates which were extracted by the fluid flow through the cooler. This used aqueous cleaning solution (solvents do not work with ultrasonics) heated to 180*F and with a mild alkaline degreasing agent. It is cost justified in fleet maintenance settings, but buying a replacement oil cooler is probably less expensive for us racers. John Frymark Sent from my iPad From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Jan 3 05:04:25 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2018 07:04:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Oil line & cooler flush References: <2AA6784F-B0A1-482E-BE5E-54E9418B6984@aol.com> I have a specific test procedure that I use on oil coolers, prior to attempted cleaning. It involves the use of a nasty-ass chipping-hammer, the pointy end... Oil coolers are cheap, racing engines aren't. Glen -----Original Message----- From: John Frymark via Fot To: toodamnfunky Cc: fot Sent: Wed, Jan 3, 2018 2:27 am Subject: [Fot] Oil line & cooler flush I was in the industrial cleaning industry for a while and the only effective oil cooler cleaning I knew of was done by immersion in an ultrasonic tank with a pressured flow through the cooler. The ultrasonic action dislodged particulates which were extracted by the fluid flow through the cooler. This used aqueous cleaning solution (solvents do not work with ultrasonics) heated to 180*F and with a mild alkaline degreasing agent. It is cost justified in fleet maintenance settings, but buying a replacement oil cooler is probably less expensive for us racers. John Frymark Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From hpspitfire at gmail.com Wed Jan 3 05:41:47 2018 From: hpspitfire at gmail.com (Aaron Johnson) Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2018 18:11:47 +0530 Subject: [Fot] Oil line & cooler flush References: <2AA6784F-B0A1-482E-BE5E-54E9418B6984@aol.com> <160bbe8812c-171a-4e991@webjas-vac155.srv.aolmail.net> Completely agree that oil coolers are disposable when something happens. But I think this is about routine maintanence. When you change the oil, you don?t throw the cooler away. All of my cars the oil from the cooler goes through the filter. I?m not sure what the benefit of any of this is. Don?t use a crappy filter. Regardless of what you do to the lines, cooler etc, you are trying to keep your oil clean when the car is running. If your filter sucks then everything else won?t matter. Sent from my iPhone > On 03-Jan-2018, at 5:34 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: > > I have a specific test procedure that I use on oil coolers, prior to attempted cleaning. > It involves the use of a nasty-ass chipping-hammer, the pointy end... > Oil coolers are cheap, racing engines aren't. > Glen > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Frymark via Fot > To: toodamnfunky > Cc: fot > Sent: Wed, Jan 3, 2018 2:27 am > Subject: [Fot] Oil line & cooler flush > > I was in the industrial cleaning industry for a while and the only effective oil cooler cleaning I knew of was done by immersion in an ultrasonic tank with a pressured flow through the cooler. The ultrasonic action dislodged particulates which were extracted by the fluid flow through the cooler. This used aqueous cleaning solution (solvents do not work with ultrasonics) heated to 180*F and with a mild alkaline degreasing agent. It is cost justified in fleet maintenance settings, but buying a replacement oil cooler is probably less expensive for us racers. > > John Frymark > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/hpspitfire at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Jan 3 06:11:35 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2018 08:11:35 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Oil line & cooler flush Yeah I wasn't considering replacing the cooler as part of a routine oil service, that would be a bit extreme...! I do a detailed strip and clean on the oil system and fit a new cooler after any metal-making event or a fresh engine installation. I also normally run the oil through an Oberg, and then through a spin-on paper element filter before it goes back in. This way if the Oberg goes into any bypass (cold start), the spin-on will catch anything that gets through. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Aaron Johnson To: fubog1 Cc: jfrymark ; toodamnfunky ; fot Sent: Wed, Jan 3, 2018 7:41 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Oil line & cooler flush Completely agree that oil coolers are disposable when something happens. But I think this is about routine maintanence. When you change the oil, you don?t throw the cooler away. All of my cars the oil from the cooler goes through the filter. I?m not sure what the benefit of any of this is. Don?t use a crappy filter. Regardless of what you do to the lines, cooler etc, you are trying to keep your oil clean when the car is running. If your filter sucks then everything else won?t matter. Sent from my iPhone On 03-Jan-2018, at 5:34 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: I have a specific test procedure that I use on oil coolers, prior to attempted cleaning. It involves the use of a nasty-ass chipping-hammer, the pointy end... Oil coolers are cheap, racing engines aren't. Glen -----Original Message----- From: John Frymark via Fot To: toodamnfunky Cc: fot Sent: Wed, Jan 3, 2018 2:27 am Subject: [Fot] Oil line & cooler flush I was in the industrial cleaning industry for a while and the only effective oil cooler cleaning I knew of was done by immersion in an ultrasonic tank with a pressured flow through the cooler. The ultrasonic action dislodged particulates which were extracted by the fluid flow through the cooler. This used aqueous cleaning solution (solvents do not work with ultrasonics) heated to 180*F and with a mild alkaline degreasing agent. It is cost justified in fleet maintenance settings, but buying a replacement oil cooler is probably less expensive for us racers. John Frymark Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com Wed Jan 3 06:45:39 2018 From: spitfire_racing at twcny.rr.com (Spitfire Racing) Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2018 08:45:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Oil line & cooler flush References: <2AA6784F-B0A1-482E-BE5E-54E9418B6984@aol.com> <160bbe8812c-171a-4e991@webjas-vac155.srv.aolmail.net> Glen beat me to it! I agree entirely. Consider the cost of an engine vs the cost of an oil cooler and once you have those values in your mind; roll in the cost of a lost weekend ? what do you want to risk? The problem with coolers is they often trap particles that can?t be simply flushed out with a low viscosity fluid. How many bits does it take to destroy a bearing? When you find out at elevated rpms it?s instantly a very expensive mistake. To coin a clich? ; ? Choose wisely!? The cost of a cooler is cheap insurance. I always keep at least one spare on the shelf. Russ Spitfire #49 From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fubog1 via Fot Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2018 7:04 AM To: jfrymark at aol.com; toodamnfunky at comcast.net Cc: fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Oil line & cooler flush I have a specific test procedure that I use on oil coolers, prior to attempted cleaning. It involves the use of a nasty-ass chipping-hammer, the pointy end... Oil coolers are cheap, racing engines aren't. Glen -----Original Message----- From: John Frymark via Fot To: toodamnfunky Cc: fot Sent: Wed, Jan 3, 2018 2:27 am Subject: [Fot] Oil line & cooler flush I was in the industrial cleaning industry for a while and the only effective oil cooler cleaning I knew of was done by immersion in an ultrasonic tank with a pressured flow through the cooler. The ultrasonic action dislodged particulates which were extracted by the fluid flow through the cooler. This used aqueous cleaning solution (solvents do not work with ultrasonics) heated to 180*F and with a mild alkaline degreasing agent. It is cost justified in fleet maintenance settings, but buying a replacement oil cooler is probably less expensive for us racers. John Frymark Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Sun Jan 7 15:29:33 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2018 17:29:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] GT6 engine block variations - TR6? References: I pulled apart a spare short block to get at the crank, and thought I might get the block cleaned and prepped at the same time. However, the block is different from any of the GT6 blocks I?ve used before. Serial # shows as a GT6 motor - KD759681 - but the bores have notches cut out in the sump end and the block has cast-in ?bulges? on the side opposite the distributor/oil galleys. I?m guessing that this is a block that could have been used either for a GT6 or TR6 and the clearance is for the added TR6 stroke - but would like to confirm that they are interchangeable. Definitely has a GT6 crank in it - same stroke. Other aspects of the castings look the same. Having been through probably 3 blocks in the past ten years, I?m puzzled I haven?t run into one of these before. Photos of current and different block attached. The clean one is my current GT6 block - there?s no serial # on that - got decked off. Anyone know? Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Be certain to check all oilway bores to ensure they are properly drilled through on these. -----Original Message----- From: Scott Janzen via Fot To: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Sun, Jan 7, 2018 3:28 pm Subject: [Fot] GT6 engine block variations - TR6? I pulled apart a spare short block to get at the crank, and thought I might get the block cleaned and prepped at the same time. However, the block is different from any of the GT6 blocks I?ve used before. Serial # shows as a GT6 motor - KD759681 - but the bores have notches cut out in the sump end and the block has cast-in ?bulges? on the side opposite the distributor/oil galleys. I?m guessing that this is a block that could have been used either for a GT6 or TR6 and the clearance is for the added TR6 stroke - but would like to confirm that they are interchangeable. Definitely has a GT6 crank in it - same stroke. Other aspects of the castings look the same. Having been through probably 3 blocks in the past ten years, I?m puzzled I haven?t run into one of these before. Photos of current and different block attached. The clean one is my current GT6 block - there?s no serial # on that - got decked off. Anyone know? Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0930.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 334839 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0929.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 358105 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0927.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 327530 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0926.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 329146 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Sun Jan 7 17:24:20 2018 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2018 18:24:20 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them out? Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Sun Jan 7 20:14:35 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2018 21:14:35 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears Yes, I've experienced this before. Mine was because the thrust washer had rotated and bound up the laygear. It was very difficult to rotate the washer back to get the laygear out. Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 On Sun 07/01/18 4:24 PM , Greg Blake via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent: > I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I > removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom > of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch > to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be > removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the > counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little > bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I > can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them > out? > Thanks. > > Greg > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox. > team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ch > arly at mitchelplumbing.com > > > > From mhado at att.net Sun Jan 7 20:20:57 2018 From: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2018 21:20:57 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears References: <4217F2D0-224C-4534-A59F-147459EEF066@icloud.com> Greg, It sounds like one or both of the laygear thrust washers are jammed or damaged which is preventing you from moving the cluster. Also, the smaller or rear thrust washer has to be removed before you can slide out the assembly in the first place. That 1/16" or so of extra movement (after the small washer is out) allows the cluster to move to that end and clear the forward end boss in the casing. Once you get the gears out be sure to check the condition of the casing on both ends where the washers are up against the casing. I've got several extra TR6 boxes in case you need one. Mike -----Original Message----- From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Blake via Fot Sent: Sunday, January 7, 2018 6:24 PM To: Fot Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them out? Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From mhado at att.net Sun Jan 7 20:52:58 2018 From: mhado at att.net (M&M Hado) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2018 21:52:58 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears References: <4217F2D0-224C-4534-A59F-147459EEF066@icloud.com> <004401d3882f$b3f51460$1bdf3d20$@att.net> <51579C47-CFE7-49A5-BB90-4DD857A364CC@icloud.com> When the rear washer is not bound, jammed, or damaged, it simply slides out since it has .007 - .012" clearance, if the gear float is within spec. Also, there is an anti-rotation tab that lines up with a slot in the casing. If the washer had rotated beyond the point where the tab and slot normally line up, then it's probably jammed and tougher to move or remove. You should be able to see the washer through the end hole in the casing after removing the layshaft which you already have out. You might be able to move the washer with a small screwdriver or ice pick tool. Try to get the whole assembly square so the gear isn't cocked which would jam it further. It has to slide out evenly at both ends. If you have a new washer, you can see the anti-rotation tab I'm referring to. Mike -----Original Message----- From: Greg Blake [mailto:gblake58tr3 at icloud.com] Sent: Sunday, January 7, 2018 9:24 PM To: mhado at att.net Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears Mike, How do I get that rear washer to drop out? Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 7, 2018, at 9:20 PM, M&M Hado wrote: > > Greg, > > It sounds like one or both of the laygear thrust washers are jammed or > damaged which is preventing you from moving the cluster. Also, the > smaller or rear thrust washer has to be removed before you can slide > out the assembly in the first place. That 1/16" or so of extra > movement (after the small washer is out) allows the cluster to move to > that end and clear the forward end boss in the casing. Once you get > the gears out be sure to check the condition of the casing on both > ends where the washers are up against the casing. I've got several extra TR6 boxes in case you need one. > > Mike > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Blake > via Fot > Sent: Sunday, January 7, 2018 6:24 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears > > I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I > removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the > bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a > brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft > and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the > case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been > able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass > punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run > into this before? Any ideas to get them out? > > Thanks. > > Greg > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mhado at att.net > > From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 8 07:04:03 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2018 14:04:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears References: <4217F2D0-224C-4534-A59F-147459EEF066@icloud.com> <004401d3882f$b3f51460$1bdf3d20$@att.net> <51579C47-CFE7-49A5-BB90-4DD857A364CC@icloud.com> <005501d38834$2cdf8780$869e9680$@att.net> Hi All, I recently had to deal with getting a recalcitrant rear thrust washer out of the case after the front one had spun - I wound up making a loop of .035 safety wire to fit around the rear washer and looped the other end around a pry bar and lifted straight up. I was able to get the washer in a position to grab it with a really small channel lock plier and pull the washer out. Others already commented on making sure that the lay gear isn't cock-eyed in the case. You def. want to double check the layshaft end-for this case when you get the thing apart. C ya,Bob Lang 339-927-4489 On Monday, January 8, 2018 12:44 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote: When the rear washer is not bound, jammed, or damaged, it simply slides out since it has .007 - .012" clearance, if the gear float is within spec. Also, there is an anti-rotation tab that lines up with a slot in the casing. If the washer had rotated beyond the point where the tab and slot normally line up, then it's probably jammed and tougher to move or remove.? You should be able to see the washer through the end hole in the casing after removing the layshaft which you already have out.? You might be able to move the washer with a small screwdriver or ice pick tool.? Try to get the whole assembly square so the gear isn't cocked which would jam it further.? It has to slide out evenly at both ends.? If you have a new washer, you can see the anti-rotation tab I'm referring to. Mike -----Original Message----- From: Greg Blake [mailto:gblake58tr3 at icloud.com] Sent: Sunday, January 7, 2018 9:24 PM To: mhado at att.net Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears Mike, How do I get that rear washer to drop out? Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 7, 2018, at 9:20 PM, M&M Hado wrote: > > Greg, > > It sounds like one or both of the laygear thrust washers are jammed or > damaged which is preventing you from moving the cluster.? Also, the > smaller or rear thrust washer has to be removed before you can slide > out the assembly in the first place.? That 1/16" or so of extra > movement (after the small washer is out) allows the cluster to move to > that end and clear the forward end boss in the casing.? Once you get > the gears out be sure to check the condition of the casing on both > ends where the washers are up against the casing.? I've got several extra TR6 boxes in case you need one. > > Mike > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Blake > via Fot > Sent: Sunday, January 7, 2018 6:24 PM > To: Fot > Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears > > I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I > removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the > bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a > brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft > and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the > case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been > able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass > punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run > into this before?? Any ideas to get them out? > > Thanks. > > Greg > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mhado at att.net > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Jan 8 07:33:33 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2018 09:33:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears References: <4217F2D0-224C-4534-A59F-147459EEF066@icloud.com> It probably has the later type shell bearings and 1 or both have worked loose in the laygear housing bore and "milled" into the thrust washer (s). Glen -----Original Message----- From: Greg Blake via Fot To: Fot Sent: Sun, Jan 7, 2018 8:56 pm Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them out? Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 8 10:43:02 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2018 17:43:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears References: <4217F2D0-224C-4534-A59F-147459EEF066@icloud.com> <160d630d95c-171d-34881@webjas-vaa197.srv.aolmail.net> Glen - or anyone - have you any experience with loctite and those shelled bearings? I had that problem (bearings milling into the thrust washer) at Blackhawk (in addition to the ventilated engine block.) It was sort of a perfect storm of oh shit moments all condensed into 5 days! c ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Monday, January 8, 2018 11:26 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: It probably has the later type shell bearings and 1 or both have worked loose in the laygear housing bore and "milled" into the thrust washer (s). Glen -----Original Message----- From: Greg Blake via Fot To: Fot Sent: Sun, Jan 7, 2018 8:56 pm Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them out? Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Mon Jan 8 11:20:21 2018 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2018 19:20:21 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears References: <4217F2D0-224C-4534-A59F-147459EEF066@icloud.com> <160d630d95c-171d-34881@webjas-vaa197.srv.aolmail.net> These shell needle bearings are easily damaged : when the shell is warped a bit, it will fail. When the bearing is in place, one should check if the needles can be spinned freely. A nylaton bush of the TR4a -TR6 inner wishbone bearing is great for pushing these shell bearings in place. These bearings are not secured by a circlip, contrary to the open cage needle bearings. But the needles of the open cage bearings are running directly against the ev. worn or damaged inner surface of the laygear. Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com, "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 8 januari 2018 15:33:33 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears It probably has the later type shell bearings and 1 or both have worked loose in the laygear housing bore and "milled" into the thrust washer (s). Glen -----Original Message----- From: Greg Blake via Fot To: Fot Sent: Sun, Jan 7, 2018 8:56 pm Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them out? Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Archive: [ http://www.team.net/archive | http://www.team.net/archive ] Forums: [ http://www.team.net/forums | http://www.team.net/forums ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Jan 8 12:34:07 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2018 14:34:07 -0500 Subject: [Fot] GT6 engine block variations - TR6? References: <6F74A6E2-95E3-4842-9E6F-E8077D12CE10@me.com> <160d320821b-1714-4386d@webjas-vaa108.srv.aolmail.net> I weighed both blocks this morning, and discovered that the ?TR6? block weighs about 11 lb more than the GT6-only block. The primary difference seems to be that the cylinder walls extend about 3/4? deeper into the block to accommodate the added stroke of a TR6, and the related casting and webbing. Don?t want the extra weight, so I think this block will go back on the shelf for the day I build a TR6 motor. They must have made a running change at around the time the GT6 late Mk II or when the MkIII was introduced to standardize parts across the model range. Scott On Jan 7, 2018, at 7:16 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Jan 8 12:34:56 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2018 14:34:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears You bet, I loctite them when I fit them, I also use a good fitting aluminum mandrel when I press them in. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang To: fubog1 ; gblake58tr3 ; fot Sent: Mon, Jan 8, 2018 12:47 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears Glen - or anyone - have you any experience with loctite and those shelled bearings? I had that problem (bearings milling into the thrust washer) at Blackhawk (in addition to the ventilated engine block.) It was sort of a perfect storm of oh shit moments all condensed into 5 days! c ya, Bob Lang 339-927-4489 On Monday, January 8, 2018 11:26 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: It probably has the later type shell bearings and 1 or both have worked loose in the laygear housing bore and "milled" into the thrust washer (s). Glen -----Original Message----- From: Greg Blake via Fot To: Fot Sent: Sun, Jan 7, 2018 8:56 pm Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them out? Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gblake58tr3 at icloud.com Mon Jan 8 14:21:10 2018 From: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com (Greg Blake) Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2018 15:21:10 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears References: <666701393.2588238.1515428800380.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <666701393.2588238.1515428800380@mail.yahoo.com> Ok. I asked about withdraw of the rear thrust washer up through the case because it looked to me that this would work. I had a good shot at it with a punch trying to drive it up and out and I was not making progress. The tab is correctly aligned (not spun). It maybe that the centerline of the lay gears was slight off center while I was whacking away at the thrust washer. I'll try again by getting the lay gears back in alignment and then attempt to get the washer out. Thanks for the input guys. Greg Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 8, 2018, at 10:26 AM, Robert Lang wrote: > > Yes it can. The lay shaft has to not be jammed into the car, but the bearing surface between the first gear end of the layshaft and the case will allow the thrust washer to come out as long as the tab is in the groove in the case. If that is not your situation, then you need to try to spin the bearing around. Note that it is pretty hard to get that rear thrust washer oriented incorrectly, but it can happen if the thrust washer spins in the case. > > But getting that thrust washer out of the case using the safety wire does work - I've had to do it a few times recently including a case where the thrust washer spun in there. > > Regards, > Bob Lang > 339-927-4489 > > > On Monday, January 8, 2018 9:30 AM, Greg Blake wrote: > > > So the rear washer can come up out of the top of the box with the lay gears still in the case? > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jan 8, 2018, at 8:04 AM, Robert Lang wrote: >> >> Hi All, >> >> I recently had to deal with getting a recalcitrant rear thrust washer out of the case after the front one had spun - I wound up making a loop of .035 safety wire to fit around the rear washer and looped the other end around a pry bar and lifted straight up. I was able to get the washer in a position to grab it with a really small channel lock plier and pull the washer out. Others already commented on making sure that the lay gear isn't cock-eyed in the case. >> >> You def. want to double check the layshaft end-for this case when you get the thing apart. >> >> C ya, >> Bob Lang >> 339-927-4489 >> >> >> On Monday, January 8, 2018 12:44 AM, M&M Hado via Fot wrote: >> >> >> When the rear washer is not bound, jammed, or damaged, it simply slides out >> since it has .007 - .012" clearance, if the gear float is within spec. >> Also, there is an anti-rotation tab that lines up with a slot in the casing. >> If the washer had rotated beyond the point where the tab and slot normally >> line up, then it's probably jammed and tougher to move or remove. You >> should be able to see the washer through the end hole in the casing after >> removing the layshaft which you already have out. You might be able to move >> the washer with a small screwdriver or ice pick tool. Try to get the whole >> assembly square so the gear isn't cocked which would jam it further. It has >> to slide out evenly at both ends. If you have a new washer, you can see the >> anti-rotation tab I'm referring to. >> >> Mike >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Greg Blake [mailto:gblake58tr3 at icloud.com] >> Sent: Sunday, January 7, 2018 9:24 PM >> To: mhado at att.net >> Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears >> >> Mike, >> >> How do I get that rear washer to drop out? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> > On Jan 7, 2018, at 9:20 PM, M&M Hado wrote: >> > >> > Greg, >> > >> > It sounds like one or both of the laygear thrust washers are jammed or >> > damaged which is preventing you from moving the cluster. Also, the >> > smaller or rear thrust washer has to be removed before you can slide >> > out the assembly in the first place. That 1/16" or so of extra >> > movement (after the small washer is out) allows the cluster to move to >> > that end and clear the forward end boss in the casing. Once you get >> > the gears out be sure to check the condition of the casing on both >> > ends where the washers are up against the casing. I've got several extra >> TR6 boxes in case you need one. >> > >> > Mike >> > >> > >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Blake >> > via Fot >> > Sent: Sunday, January 7, 2018 6:24 PM >> > To: Fot >> > Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears >> > >> > I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I >> > removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the >> > bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a >> > brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft >> > and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the >> > case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been >> > able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass >> > punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run >> > into this before? Any ideas to get them out? >> > >> > Thanks. >> > >> > Greg >> > >> > Sent from my iPhone >> > _______________________________________________ >> > fot at autox.team.net >> > >> > http://www.fot-racing.com >> > >> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mhado at att.net >> > >> > >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com >> >> >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Mon Jan 8 16:58:03 2018 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2018 18:58:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears References: <160d744c3d6-1715-c04a0@webjas-vaa040.srv.aolmail.net> How do you get them out? I?ve never had one move and had to destroy everything in the process to get them removed. JVV From: fubog1 via Fot Sent: Monday, January 8, 2018 2:34 PM To: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com ; gblake58tr3 at icloud.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears You bet, I loctite them when I fit them, I also use a good fitting aluminum mandrel when I press them in. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang To: fubog1 ; gblake58tr3 ; fot Sent: Mon, Jan 8, 2018 12:47 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears Glen - or anyone - have you any experience with loctite and those shelled bearings? I had that problem (bearings milling into the thrust washer) at Blackhawk (in addition to the ventilated engine block.) It was sort of a perfect storm of oh shit moments all condensed into 5 days! c ya, Bob Lang 339-927-4489 On Monday, January 8, 2018 11:26 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: It probably has the later type shell bearings and 1 or both have worked loose in the laygear housing bore and "milled" into the thrust washer (s). Glen -----Original Message----- From: Greg Blake via Fot To: Fot Sent: Sun, Jan 7, 2018 8:56 pm Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them out? Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Jan 9 04:33:03 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2018 06:33:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I go in there with a high speed tool and grind out an area, almost through the shell, and pick/punch/chisel the bits out. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Jerry Van Vlack via Fot To: fubog1 ; robertlangtr6 ; gblake58tr3 ; fot Sent: Mon, Jan 8, 2018 8:09 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears How do you get them out? I?ve never had one move and had to destroy everything in the process to get them removed. JVV From: fubog1 via Fot Sent: Monday, January 8, 2018 2:34 PM To: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com ; gblake58tr3 at icloud.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears You bet, I loctite them when I fit them, I also use a good fitting aluminum mandrel when I press them in. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang To: fubog1 ; gblake58tr3 ; fot Sent: Mon, Jan 8, 2018 12:47 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears Glen - or anyone - have you any experience with loctite and those shelled bearings? I had that problem (bearings milling into the thrust washer) at Blackhawk (in addition to the ventilated engine block.) It was sort of a perfect storm of oh shit moments all condensed into 5 days! c ya, Bob Lang 339-927-4489 On Monday, January 8, 2018 11:26 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: It probably has the later type shell bearings and 1 or both have worked loose in the laygear housing bore and "milled" into the thrust washer (s). Glen -----Original Message----- From: Greg Blake via Fot To: Fot Sent: Sun, Jan 7, 2018 8:56 pm Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them out? Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Jan 9 04:40:30 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2018 06:40:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears What Steve said, this is the way to do it. Also I recently noticed that Moss is selling a double bearing gear now. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Steve Yott To: van.mulders.marcel ; 'fubog1' Sent: Mon, Jan 8, 2018 7:01 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears For all gearboxes I rebuild and for a number of other builders I modify the lay gear by boring the 1st gear end in order to fit a double bearing which pretty much eliminates bearing and shaft failure. There is too much load on the bearing and shaft in this area and the double bearing installation mimics the more durable Stag gearbox. At the same time I machine a groove in the end to fit a circlip to prevent bearing walk. I also use Loctite retaining compound to add a little further fixing for the bearings. Steve Yott Silver Lake Triumph Centre From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Sent: Monday, January 08, 2018 12:20 PM To: fubog1 Cc: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears These shell needle bearings are easily damaged : when the shell is warped a bit, it will fail. When the bearing is in place, one should check if the needles can be spinned freely. A nylaton bush of the TR4a -TR6 inner wishbone bearing is great for pushing these shell bearings in place. These bearings are not secured by a circlip, contrary to the open cage needle bearings. But the needles of the open cage bearings are running directly against the ev. worn or damaged inner surface of the laygear. Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com, "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 8 januari 2018 15:33:33 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears It probably has the later type shell bearings and 1 or both have worked loose in the laygear housing bore and "milled" into the thrust washer (s). Glen -----Original Message----- From: Greg Blake via Fot To: Fot Sent: Sun, Jan 7, 2018 8:56 pm Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them out? Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brakey6666 at gmail.com Tue Jan 9 07:43:28 2018 From: brakey6666 at gmail.com (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2018 09:43:28 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears References: <003001d388dd$0b126060$21372120$@wi.rr.com> <160dab8c5a9-1722-7674@webjas-vab251.srv.aolmail.net> I ran into this problem on 2 of the 3 transmissions with A-type overdrives I rebuilt in late November / early December. What happens is the caged needle bearing on the smaller end of the laygear walks out of place and grinds its way into the small thrust washer that makes it almost impossible to remove. It seems that the small circlip if used also fails allowing the bearing to move into the thrust washer. In both instances we had to replace the case since the damage was so bad it destroyed the flat surface of the case. Since 4 speeds with out O/D are readily available we stripped down 2 to use their cases. The last one I built was so bad and the washer would not come out. I had to wrap a chain around the cluster gear (layshaft) and use a heavy "Slugger" Body Dent Puller to get the laygear out. I replaced that laygear as well. I found this to be on the O/D transmissions but have not seen it on 4 speed only transmissions. FYI Glenn TR6, TR250, MGTC, BMW 2002 Roundie, Mazda Miata On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 6:40 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: > What Steve said, this is the way to do it. > Also I recently noticed that Moss is selling a double bearing gear now. > Glen > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve Yott > To: van.mulders.marcel ; 'fubog1' < > fubog1 at aol.com> > Sent: Mon, Jan 8, 2018 7:01 pm > Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears > > For all gearboxes I rebuild and for a number of other builders I modify > the lay gear by boring the 1st gear end in order to fit a double bearing > which pretty much eliminates bearing and shaft failure. There is too much > load on the bearing and shaft in this area and the double bearing > installation mimics the more durable Stag gearbox. At the same time I > machine a groove in the end to fit a circlip to prevent bearing walk. I > also use Loctite retaining compound to add a little further fixing for the > bearings. > > Steve Yott > Silver Lake Triumph Centre > > *From:* Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *van.mulders.marcel--- > via Fot > *Sent:* Monday, January 08, 2018 12:20 PM > *To:* fubog1 > *Cc:* fot > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears > > These shell needle bearings are easily damaged : when the shell is warped > a bit, it will fail. When the bearing is in place, one should check if the > needles can be spinned freely. > A nylaton bush of the TR4a -TR6 inner wishbone bearing is great for > pushing these shell bearings in place. These bearings are not secured by a > circlip, contrary to the open cage needle bearings. > But the needles of the open cage bearings are running directly against the > ev. worn or damaged inner surface of the laygear. > Marcel > > ------------------------------ > *Van: *"fot" > *Aan: *gblake58tr3 at icloud.com, "fot" > *Verzonden: *Maandag 8 januari 2018 15:33:33 > *Onderwerp: *Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears > > It probably has the later type shell bearings and 1 or both have worked > loose in the laygear housing bore and "milled" into the thrust washer (s). > Glen > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Greg Blake via Fot > To: Fot > Sent: Sun, Jan 7, 2018 8:56 pm > Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears > > I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I > removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom > of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch > to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be > removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the > counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little > bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I > can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them > out? > > Thanks. > > Greg > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders. > marcel at telenet.be > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Jan 9 08:57:37 2018 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2018 10:57:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears, and somewhat related... On the subject of the (very marginal) layshaft bearings, these will live a lot longer if the end-float is set to a minimum, and the oil changed frequently. Every time it goes graunch, it's making metal, and those metal bits like to go right down into the bottom of the case and get caught between the backside of the thrust washer and the flat on the case, in addition to eating up bearing surfaces. Short of somewhat involved machining, this will scrap an otherwise good gearcase. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco via Fot To: fubog1 Cc: FOT list Sent: Tue, Jan 9, 2018 10:37 am Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I ran into this problem on 2 of the 3 transmissions with A-type overdrives I rebuilt in late November / early December. What happens is the caged needle bearing on the smaller end of the laygear walks out of place and grinds its way into the small thrust washer that makes it almost impossible to remove. It seems that the small circlip if used also fails allowing the bearing to move into the thrust washer. In both instances we had to replace the case since the damage was so bad it destroyed the flat surface of the case. Since 4 speeds with out O/D are readily available we stripped down 2 to use their cases. The last one I built was so bad and the washer would not come out. I had to wrap a chain around the cluster gear (layshaft) and use a heavy "Slugger" Body Dent Puller to get the laygear out. I replaced that laygear as well. I found this to be on the O/D transmissions but have not seen it on 4 speed only transmissions. FYI Glenn TR6, TR250, MGTC, BMW 2002 Roundie, Mazda Miata On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 6:40 AM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: What Steve said, this is the way to do it. Also I recently noticed that Moss is selling a double bearing gear now. Glen -----Original Message----- From: Steve Yott To: van.mulders.marcel ; 'fubog1' Sent: Mon, Jan 8, 2018 7:01 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears For all gearboxes I rebuild and for a number of other builders I modify the lay gear by boring the 1st gear end in order to fit a double bearing which pretty much eliminates bearing and shaft failure. There is too much load on the bearing and shaft in this area and the double bearing installation mimics the more durable Stag gearbox. At the same time I machine a groove in the end to fit a circlip to prevent bearing walk. I also use Loctite retaining compound to add a little further fixing for the bearings. Steve Yott Silver Lake Triumph Centre From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot Sent: Monday, January 08, 2018 12:20 PM To: fubog1 Cc: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears These shell needle bearings are easily damaged : when the shell is warped a bit, it will fail. When the bearing is in place, one should check if the needles can be spinned freely. A nylaton bush of the TR4a -TR6 inner wishbone bearing is great for pushing these shell bearings in place. These bearings are not secured by a circlip, contrary to the open cage needle bearings. But the needles of the open cage bearings are running directly against the ev. worn or damaged inner surface of the laygear. Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: gblake58tr3 at icloud.com, "fot" Verzonden: Maandag 8 januari 2018 15:33:33 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears It probably has the later type shell bearings and 1 or both have worked loose in the laygear housing bore and "milled" into the thrust washer (s). Glen -----Original Message----- From: Greg Blake via Fot To: Fot Sent: Sun, Jan 7, 2018 8:56 pm Subject: [Fot] TR6 transmission rebuild - counter shaft gears I am rebuilding a TR6 transmission and ran into a strange snag. When I removed the countershaft the counter shaft gears did not drop to the bottom of the case. I had to tap on the counter shaft gear set with a brass punch to get them to move far enough to allow the input shaft and gear to be removed. Now that I have the main shaft out of the case, I can't get the counter shaft gears out of the case. I've been able to move them a little bit by tapping on the gears with a brass punch through the drain hole but I can't get them out. Has anyone run into this before? Any ideas to get them out? Thanks. Greg Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From awashatko at wi.rr.com Tue Jan 9 20:37:17 2018 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2018 21:37:17 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Measurements Needed FoT, Does anyone have access to an upper fulcrum pin and a ball joint of a TR6? I need the flat to flat dimension of each part. Thanks for any help. Regards, Allen Allen Washatko TR6 - #6 From steve at artwithcars.com Tue Jan 9 21:25:57 2018 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2018 20:25:57 -0800 Subject: [Fot] New silly RACING film (Non Triumph Related) Dear FOT, As some of you might know, aside from my racing hobby, I create some of the music on the SpongeBob cartoon. Here?s a link to my latest RACING film. I hope you enjoy it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC50DcIm_Hw&feature=youtu.be ~STEVE -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From keithfiles at btinternet.com Tue Jan 9 23:53:06 2018 From: keithfiles at btinternet.com (Keith Files) Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2018 06:53:06 +0000 Subject: [Fot] New silly RACING film (Non Triumph Related) References: so funny, just what was needed on a clod and wet January morning... > On 10 Jan 2018, at 04:25, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > Dear FOT, > > As some of you might know, aside from my racing hobby, I create some of the music on the SpongeBob cartoon. > > Here?s a link to my latest RACING film. I hope you enjoy it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC50DcIm_Hw&feature=youtu.be > > > ~STEVE > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/keithfiles at btinternet.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gasket.works at gte.net Wed Jan 10 08:24:27 2018 From: gasket.works at gte.net (Mordy Dunst) Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2018 10:24:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New silly RACING film (Non Triumph Related) References: Steve Biologically meal worms are not at all grubs. What most dont know is that they supply an amazing benefit besides their wiggly demeanor. While growing they leave lots of Frass. That Frass must be removed. I once picked up literraly two tons of it in Compton for free. The company gave it away. Their buisiness was grandfathered into the small street and were unable to get trucks larger than a pick up into their driveway. Funky smell. So the frass kept pilling up. The company supplies live worms to many zoos. I used the Frass mixed with Azomite as a soil additive. Not much nitrogen. You should share this lovely vid with them. I think the daughter is a biologist and would find it heartworming. Best... Can I share it with the pediatric section? Mordy MDunst Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 Fax 626.628.3777 Triple R Munitions, Inc 626.201.9471 T FFL 6,7 SOT 2 On Tuesday, January 9, 2018, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: Dear FOT, As some of you might know, aside from my racing hobby, I create some of the music on the SpongeBob cartoon. Here?s a link to my latest RACING film. I hope you enjoy it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC50DcIm_Hw&feature=youtu.be ~STEVE _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive From gt6steve at aol.com Wed Jan 10 11:31:06 2018 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2018 13:31:06 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New silly RACING film (Non Triumph Related) Frass...haven't heard that word in decades...Thanx Mordy ;-) -----Original Message----- From: Mordy Dunst via Fot To: fot Sent: Wed, Jan 10, 2018 10:27 am Subject: Re: [Fot] New silly RACING film (Non Triumph Related) SteveBiologically meal worms are not at all grubs. What most dont know is that they supply an amazing benefit besides their wiggly demeanor. While growing they leave lots of Frass. That Frass must be removed. I once picked up literraly two tons of it in Compton for free. The company gave it away. Their buisiness was grandfathered into the small street and were unable to get trucks larger than a pick up into their driveway. Funky smell. So the frass kept pilling up. The company supplies live worms to many zoos. I used the Frass mixed with Azomite as a soil additive. Not much nitrogen. You should share this lovely vid with them. I think the daughter is a biologist and would find it heartworming. Best...Can I share it with the pediatric section? MordyMDunst Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 Fax 626.628.3777 Triple R Munitions, Inc 626.201.9471 T FFL 6,7 SOT 2On Tuesday, January 9, 2018, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote:Dear FOT,As some of you might know, aside from my racing hobby, I create some of the music on the SpongeBob cartoon.Here?s a link to my latest RACING film. I hope you enjoy it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC50DcIm_Hw&feature=youtu.be~STEVE_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gasket.works at gte.net_______________________________________________fot@autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Wed Jan 10 12:33:30 2018 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2018 14:33:30 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New silly RACING film (Non Triumph Related) Amici... The extent of talent and knowledge in the FOT is mind boggling (and at times...scary). Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Mordy Dunst via Fot To: fot Sent: Wed, Jan 10, 2018 10:38 am Subject: Re: [Fot] New silly RACING film (Non Triumph Related) SteveBiologically meal worms are not at all grubs. What most dont know is that they supply an amazing benefit besides their wiggly demeanor. While growing they leave lots of Frass. That Frass must be removed. I once picked up literraly two tons of it in Compton for free. The company gave it away. Their buisiness was grandfathered into the small street and were unable to get trucks larger than a pick up into their driveway. Funky smell. So the frass kept pilling up. The company supplies live worms to many zoos. I used the Frass mixed with Azomite as a soil additive. Not much nitrogen. You should share this lovely vid with them. I think the daughter is a biologist and would find it heartworming. Best...Can I share it with the pediatric section? MordyMDunst Headgasket.com 626.358.1616 Fax 626.628.3777 Triple R Munitions, Inc 626.201.9471 T FFL 6,7 SOT 2On Tuesday, January 9, 2018, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote:Dear FOT,As some of you might know, aside from my racing hobby, I create some of the music on the SpongeBob cartoon.Here?s a link to my latest RACING film. I hope you enjoy it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC50DcIm_Hw&feature=youtu.be~STEVE_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gasket.works at gte.net_______________________________________________fot@autox.team.nethttp://www.fot-racing.comDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/archiveForums: http://www.team.net/forumsUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Jan 10 15:41:13 2018 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2018 15:41:13 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gear ratios? Listerati, I?ve been trying to figure out what gear ratios I have in the gearbox that came with my race car but don?t know how to do the proper math. The PO told me it was a close ratio GT6 gearbox but one never knows until you actual check. I at least took some ?data? while it was out so I?m hoping someone can tell me how to figure out the gear ratios and if it is indeed close ratio GT6 gears or whatever it might be. When the input shaft was turned one full rotation the output shaft turned the following amount. 1st gear it turned 1/4 turn 2nd gear it turned 1 1/8 turns 3rd gear it turned 1 5/8 turns 4th gear it turned 1 3/4 turns Any help on how I should do the math is appreciated. Also does anyone know what happened to the minty lamb gearspeed website? It does not appear to be up any longer and I used to play with it a lot. Very useful site that now appears gone. Waaahhhh. Thanks Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Jan 10 16:35:00 2018 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2018 17:35:00 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Racers. Webers from 1296 Race engine and Triumph Tune intakes. NFI I have a line on Carbs from Race Car being retrofitted to Street. Anyone interested?.... before they go to eBay Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 11 06:19:22 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2018 13:19:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Gear ratios? References: <9940DDBC-84D3-4515-AF63-7453C94627AC@comcast.net> Hi Bud, Those numbers look fishy. 4th gear should be 1:1, e.g. turning the input shaft one turn should yield one turn of motion at the output flange. The lower gears would turn the output flange less than one turn. A 1.33:1 overall third gear ratio would see the output flange turn 3/4 of a turn per one turn on the input shaft. Similarly, a 1.75:1 2nd gear would result in slightly more than half a turn (.57 to be exact) of the output flange per turn of the input shaft. Note that 1.33 and 1.75 are random numbers shown to illustrate and not actual gear ratios. I think the GT6 used 1.78 and 1.25 for 2nd and 3rd. At least the Mk3 GT had those ratios. What you reported seems to be the opposite of my example. It is possible that you are seeing some sort of "sticktion" where gooey oil in the gearbox is coming into play. But the key is that 4th should always be 1:1 unless there's an overdrive and that O/D is engaged. But the only way to know for sure of what the ratios are is to count teeth and "do the math". Can you remove the top cover and count the teeth on any of the gears on the main shaft? That should make it easier to identify what gear clusters are in there. You probably only need to count the teeth on the main shaft but I know squat about GT6 gearbox internals other than they are more Spitfire-like than TR-like so the lay shaft gear ratios may be fixed? as they are on the Spitfire. The point being that there are only so many ratios available that would? fit in the gearbox, so it should be fairly easy to figure out what you have there. Regards,Bob Lang On Wednesday, January 10, 2018 9:09 PM, Bud R via Fot wrote: Listerati, I?ve been trying to figure out what gear ratios I have in the gearbox that came with my race car but don?t know how to? do the proper math. The PO told me it was a close ratio GT6 gearbox but one never knows until you actual check. I at least took some ?data? while it was out so I?m hoping someone can tell me how to figure out the gear ratios and if it is indeed close ratio GT6 gears or whatever it might be. When the input shaft was turned one full rotation the output shaft turned the following amount. 1st gear it turned 1/4 turn 2nd gear it? turned 1 1/8 turns 3rd gear it turned 1 5/8 turns 4th gear it turned 1 3/4 turns Any help on how I should do the math is appreciated. Also does anyone know what happened to the minty lamb gearspeed website? It does not appear to be up any longer and I used to play with it a lot. Very useful site that now appears gone.? Waaahhhh. Thanks Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tedtsimx at bright.net Thu Jan 11 07:21:03 2018 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2018 09:21:03 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Gear ratios? References: <9940DDBC-84D3-4515-AF63-7453C94627AC@comcast.net> Bud, this works for all manual trans. but will use a 4 speed for illustration. Lay gear(cluster gear) 4th divided by main shaft 4th X whatever main shaft gear you choose divided by laygear equivalent = ratio for that gear. Example - laygear 4th is 33 teeth, main shaft 4th is 22 teeth. Main shaft 3rd is 27 teeth and lay gear is 29 teeth. So 33 divided by 22 = 1.5 x 29 divided by 27 (1.08) = 1.61(3rd gear ratio) Lay gear (direct) divided by main shaft gear (direct)? X what main shaft gear you choose divided by equivalent lay gear = ratio for that gear On 1/10/2018 5:41 PM, Bud R via Fot wrote: > Listerati, > > I?ve been trying to figure out what gear ratios I have in the gearbox that came with my race car but don?t know how to do the proper math. The PO told me it was a close ratio GT6 gearbox but one never knows until you actual check. > > I at least took some ?data? while it was out so I?m hoping someone can tell me how to figure out the gear ratios and if it is indeed close ratio GT6 gears or whatever it might be. > > When the input shaft was turned one full rotation the output shaft turned the following amount. > > 1st gear it turned 1/4 turn > 2nd gear it turned 1 1/8 turns > 3rd gear it turned 1 5/8 turns > 4th gear it turned 1 3/4 turns > > Any help on how I should do the math is appreciated. > > Also does anyone know what happened to the minty lamb gearspeed website? It does not appear to be up any longer and I used to play with it a lot. Very useful site that now appears gone. Waaahhhh. > > Thanks > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net > > > > -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From rkrantz77 at comcast.net Thu Jan 11 07:31:23 2018 From: rkrantz77 at comcast.net (Ron KRANTZ) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2018 09:31:23 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Fot] Gear ratios? References: <9940DDBC-84D3-4515-AF63-7453C94627AC@comcast.net> <1862346519.1114456.1515676762409@mail.yahoo.com> Bud & Bob, Your going at the ratios backwards. Mark the output flange and tail housing and the input shaft. Turn the OUTPUT flange 1 revolution while counting the input shaft revs. The number of input revs is the ratio. example, 1 output rev has input turning 4 revs = 4.00:1 ratio. Not ALL transmissions have a 1:1 4th gear ratio. I build a racing trans that 4th gear can be overdrive, underdrive or 1:1. Spitfires do not have a good selection of differential ratios which is why I designed and built my trans. I can also give you any 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear ratio you want. I use Hewland/Webster gears and best of all it is a bolt in trans for any Spit. Ron Krantz ReK Racing > On January 11, 2018 at 8:19 AM Robert Lang via Fot wrote: > > Hi Bud, > > Those numbers look fishy. 4th gear should be 1:1, e.g. turning the input shaft one turn should yield one turn of motion at the output flange. The lower gears would turn the output flange less than one turn. A 1.33:1 overall third gear ratio would see the output flange turn 3/4 of a turn per one turn on the input shaft. Similarly, a 1.75:1 2nd gear would result in slightly more than half a turn (.57 to be exact) of the output flange per turn of the input shaft. Note that 1.33 and 1.75 are random numbers shown to illustrate and not actual gear ratios. I think the GT6 used 1.78 and 1.25 for 2nd and 3rd. At least the Mk3 GT had those ratios. > > What you reported seems to be the opposite of my example. > > It is possible that you are seeing some sort of "sticktion" where gooey oil in the gearbox is coming into play. But the key is that 4th should always be 1:1 unless there's an overdrive and that O/D is engaged. > > But the only way to know for sure of what the ratios are is to count teeth and "do the math". > > Can you remove the top cover and count the teeth on any of the gears on the main shaft? That should make it easier to identify what gear clusters are in there. You probably only need to count the teeth on the main shaft but I know squat about GT6 gearbox internals other than they are more Spitfire-like than TR-like so the lay shaft gear ratios may be fixed as they are on the Spitfire. The point being that there are only so many ratios available that would fit in the gearbox, so it should be fairly easy to figure out what you have there. > > Regards, > Bob Lang > > > > > > On Wednesday, January 10, 2018 9:09 PM, Bud R via Fot wrote: > > > Listerati, > > I?ve been trying to figure out what gear ratios I have in the gearbox that came with my race car but don?t know how to do the proper math. The PO told me it was a close ratio GT6 gearbox but one never knows until you actual check. > > I at least took some ?data? while it was out so I?m hoping someone can tell me how to figure out the gear ratios and if it is indeed close ratio GT6 gears or whatever it might be. > > When the input shaft was turned one full rotation the output shaft turned the following amount. > > 1st gear it turned 1/4 turn > 2nd gear it turned 1 1/8 turns > 3rd gear it turned 1 5/8 turns > 4th gear it turned 1 3/4 turns > > Any help on how I should do the math is appreciated. > > Also does anyone know what happened to the minty lamb gearspeed website? It does not appear to be up any longer and I used to play with it a lot. Very useful site that now appears gone. Waaahhhh. > > Thanks > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com/ > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfetta95 at optonline.net Thu Jan 11 08:41:44 2018 From: alfetta95 at optonline.net (Todd Redmond) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2018 10:41:44 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Fot] Group 44 Paint code Friends: I'm looking for the white paint code for the Group 44 cars. Thanks in advance Todd From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Jan 11 11:34:09 2018 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2018 11:34:09 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Gear ratios? References: <9940DDBC-84D3-4515-AF63-7453C94627AC@comcast.net> <1862346519.1114456.1515676762409@mail.yahoo.com> <709903065.344317.1515681083676@connect.xfinity.com> Thanks guys for the help, Doing things backwards seems to be my specialty lately. The tranny is back in the car so I can?t redo the revolutions directly on the tranny. I do have the rear end on jack stands putting on some new brake lines so can I pull the spark plugs and just rotate the rear wheel while counting the crank pulley revolutions to get the ratios for each gear? I did count the teeth on the gears, but I didn?t measure the diameters because I didn?t think to do that. 1st = 30 teeth 2nd = 26 teeth 3rd = 22 teeth 4th = 19 teeth Reverse = 33 teeth Pics below. The ratios I pulled from the mintylamb gearspeed calculator showed for a GT6 gearbox (for KC/KF/KE gearboxes) are: 1st 2.646 2nd 1.779 3rd 1.254 4th 1.0 These are real close to the ratios shown for a TR7 4 speed gearbox. I have a refurbished (by TRF) TR7 4 speed awaiting an adapter to my Spitfire MK III bell housing. So if/when I need to replace the GT6 tran my plan is to use the TR7 4 speed as it is supposed to be stronger. But I?d like to know what ratios I have now before that decision point is reached. 1st 2.66 2nd 1.78 3rd 1.26 4th 1.0 I used a 3.89 welded diff initially with this gearbox but I switched to a welded 4.11 which is now in the car. Thanks again. Bud Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) On Jan 11, 2018, at 7:31 AM, Ron KRANTZ wrote: > Bud & Bob, > > Your going at the ratios backwards. Mark the output flange and tail housing and the input shaft. Turn the OUTPUT flange 1 revolution while counting the input shaft revs. The number of input revs is the ratio. example, 1 output rev has input turning 4 revs = 4.00:1 ratio. > > Not ALL transmissions have a 1:1 4th gear ratio. I build a racing trans that 4th gear can be overdrive, underdrive or 1:1. Spitfires do not have a good selection of differential ratios which is why I designed and built my trans. I can also give you any 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear ratio you want. I use Hewland/Webster gears and best of all it is a bolt in trans for any Spit. > > Ron Krantz > > ReK Racing > >> On January 11, 2018 at 8:19 AM Robert Lang via Fot wrote: >> >> Hi Bud, >> >> Those numbers look fishy. 4th gear should be 1:1, e.g. turning the input shaft one turn should yield one turn of motion at the output flange. The lower gears would turn the output flange less than one turn. A 1.33:1 overall third gear ratio would see the output flange turn 3/4 of a turn per one turn on the input shaft. Similarly, a 1.75:1 2nd gear would result in slightly more than half a turn (.57 to be exact) of the output flange per turn of the input shaft. Note that 1.33 and 1.75 are random numbers shown to illustrate and not actual gear ratios. I think the GT6 used 1.78 and 1.25 for 2nd and 3rd. At least the Mk3 GT had those ratios. >> >> What you reported seems to be the opposite of my example. >> >> It is possible that you are seeing some sort of "sticktion" where gooey oil in the gearbox is coming into play. But the key is that 4th should always be 1:1 unless there's an overdrive and that O/D is engaged. >> >> But the only way to know for sure of what the ratios are is to count teeth and "do the math". >> >> Can you remove the top cover and count the teeth on any of the gears on the main shaft? That should make it easier to identify what gear clusters are in there. You probably only need to count the teeth on the main shaft but I know squat about GT6 gearbox internals other than they are more Spitfire-like than TR-like so the lay shaft gear ratios may be fixed as they are on the Spitfire. The point being that there are only so many ratios available that would fit in the gearbox, so it should be fairly easy to figure out what you have there. >> >> Regards, >> Bob Lang >> >> >> >> >> >> On Wednesday, January 10, 2018 9:09 PM, Bud R via Fot wrote: >> >> >> Listerati, >> >> I?ve been trying to figure out what gear ratios I have in the gearbox that came with my race car but don?t know how to do the proper math. The PO told me it was a close ratio GT6 gearbox but one never knows until you actual check. >> >> I at least took some ?data? while it was out so I?m hoping someone can tell me how to figure out the gear ratios and if it is indeed close ratio GT6 gears or whatever it might be. >> >> When the input shaft was turned one full rotation the output shaft turned the following amount. >> >> 1st gear it turned 1/4 turn >> 2nd gear it turned 1 1/8 turns >> 3rd gear it turned 1 5/8 turns >> 4th gear it turned 1 3/4 turns >> >> Any help on how I should do the math is appreciated. >> >> Also does anyone know what happened to the minty lamb gearspeed website? It does not appear to be up any longer and I used to play with it a lot. Very useful site that now appears gone. Waaahhhh. >> >> Thanks >> Bud Rolofson >> >> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 >> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) >> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle >> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com >> >> >> > > > >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkrantz77 at comcast.net >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: IMG_5923.jpeg Type: image/jpg Size: 83953 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rocky at spitfire4.com Thu Jan 11 12:09:17 2018 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2018 13:09:17 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Group 44 Paint code References: <22634440.effb.160e5e25a99.Webtop.46@optonline.net> Don't know the code, but I always heard it referred to as "Refrigerator White." --RE -----Original Message----- From: Todd Redmond via Fot Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2018 9:41 AM To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Group 44 Paint code Friends: I'm looking for the white paint code for the Group 44 cars. Thanks in advance Todd _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com From kaskastner at gmail.com Thu Jan 11 14:53:31 2018 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2018 13:53:31 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Gear ratios? References: <9940DDBC-84D3-4515-AF63-7453C94627AC@comcast.net> This chart may not be of much use if you have an assembled box but handy if you can count all the gear teeth. See the attachment. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Wed, Jan 10, 2018 at 2:41 PM, Bud R via Fot wrote: > Listerati, > > I?ve been trying to figure out what gear ratios I have in the gearbox that > came with my race car but don?t know how to do the proper math. The PO > told me it was a close ratio GT6 gearbox but one never knows until you > actual check. > > I at least took some ?data? while it was out so I?m hoping someone can > tell me how to figure out the gear ratios and if it is indeed close ratio > GT6 gears or whatever it might be. > > When the input shaft was turned one full rotation the output shaft turned > the following amount. > > 1st gear it turned 1/4 turn > 2nd gear it turned 1 1/8 turns > 3rd gear it turned 1 5/8 turns > 4th gear it turned 1 3/4 turns > > Any help on how I should do the math is appreciated. > > Also does anyone know what happened to the minty lamb gearspeed website? > It does not appear to be up any longer and I used to play with it a lot. > Very useful site that now appears gone. Waaahhhh. > > Thanks > Bud Rolofson > > Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 > 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) > 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle > 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Discovering ratios in unknown gearbox.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2842575 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vangoughv at hotmail.com Thu Jan 11 15:16:06 2018 From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2018 22:16:06 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Group 44 Paint code References: <22634440.effb.160e5e25a99.Webtop.46@optonline.net> <0E4694C4C54C4C439FE8F6356C8DFBA8@Rocky> There was of course a factory ?triumph white? that the GT6 was available in back in the day. That?s what I?d go with if in doubt so it?s at least period correct in that regard. Vince > On Jan 11, 2018, at 2:09 PM, Rocky Entriken via Fot wrote: > > Don't know the code, but I always heard it referred to as "Refrigerator White." > > --RE > > -----Original Message----- From: Todd Redmond via Fot > Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2018 9:41 AM > To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] Group 44 Paint code > > Friends: > > > I'm looking for the white paint code for the Group 44 cars. > > > Thanks in advance > Todd > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vangoughv at hotmail.com > > From gt6steve at aol.com Thu Jan 11 16:31:12 2018 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2018 18:31:12 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Group 44 Paint code GM #10 has always been the clean white I've used. -----Original Message----- From: Rocky Entriken via Fot To: Todd Redmond ; FOT Sent: Thu, Jan 11, 2018 2:14 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Group 44 Paint code Don't know the code, but I always heard it referred to as "Refrigerator White." --RE -----Original Message----- From: Todd Redmond via Fot Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2018 9:41 AM To: FOT at autox.team.net FOT at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] Group 44 Paint code Friends: I'm looking for the white paint code for the Group 44 cars. Thanks in advance Todd _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don at dcphotos.com Thu Jan 11 19:47:39 2018 From: don at dcphotos.com (don at dcphotos.com) Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2018 20:47:39 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Venolia Pitons Listerine, I called Venolia Piston on Monday to order one replacement piston. The sales guy informed me that as of the new year, Venolia will no longer make a one off replacements. They want you to buy an entire set. I.E. for a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder. They are going to go ahead and make me my replacement but going forward if I need one piston I am going to tell them it?s for my one cylinder motorcycle! :-) Just thought y?all might want to know. Don DON COUCH PHOTOGRAPHY www.dcphotos.com (512)-680-3540 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Jan 12 06:24:18 2018 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2018 07:24:18 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Weber Carbs SOLD Thank you everyone. I just heard the owner. He thanks the FOT. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From robertten1 at aol.com Fri Jan 12 07:02:26 2018 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2018 09:02:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Grp 44 paint code WHITE Glacier White Various years. British Leyland OEM Code BLVC 59 PPG 8845 ICI 4309 DuPont 8579 Bob T -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Fri Jan 12 10:04:20 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2018 17:04:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Possible Lead on a 1296 Spitfire References: <1102069238.1994600.1515776660460.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi, I got contacted by a member of New England Region SCCA - his Dad has a square-tail Spitfire that is caged and has a logbook and a 1296 race motor. The body is fitted with stock fenders, so this would be a good candidate for vintage racing. The son is putting together a sale flyer and I will forward to anyone that might be interested. The son is from eastern Massachusetts, I'm not sure at this point where the car is. To that end, the son is looking for input regarding an asking price. Comments on or off list would be appreciated. I don't think I know this car, I saw some pix of the car at Thompson in 2016 and the car is white and running # 97. Regards,Bob Lang339-927-4489 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertten1 at aol.com Fri Jan 12 10:16:36 2018 From: robertten1 at aol.com (robertten1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2018 12:16:36 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Grp 44 paint code WHITE References: <160eaadcbdd-1d28-d97ea@webjas-vae205.srv.aolmail.net> Not sure this got thru the 1st time -----Original Message----- From: robertten1 To: fot Sent: Fri, Jan 12, 2018 9:02 am Subject: Grp 44 paint code WHITE Glacier White Various years. British Leyland OEM Code BLVC 59 PPG 8845 ICI 4309 DuPont 8579 Bob T '64 Spit GT autocrosser -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From horizonracing at msn.com Fri Jan 12 12:27:31 2018 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2018 19:27:31 +0000 Subject: [Fot] GT6 Group ? I?m in the need of a RIGHT hand drive steering rack and a pair of steering arms . Thank you Tony Garmey 206 612 1782 Www. Horizonracing.com Sent from my iPhone From dbm.spitfire at gmail.com Sun Jan 14 19:35:43 2018 From: dbm.spitfire at gmail.com (Doug Mitchell) Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2018 21:35:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] The Possible References: Amici, I don't remember anyone talking about it before, but there is a VR video about Keith Copeland on an app called Within. Keith is the gentleman who took a modified GT6 to Bonneville. If you download the app, look for a video called 'The Possible Dream Machine'. Cheers, Doug Mitchell dbm.spitfire at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dbm.spitfire at gmail.com Sun Jan 14 19:39:26 2018 From: dbm.spitfire at gmail.com (Doug Mitchell) Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2018 21:39:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] The Possible References: Oops, that is 'The Possible Speed Machine'. On Jan 14, 2018 9:35 PM, "Doug Mitchell" wrote: Amici, I don't remember anyone talking about it before, but there is a VR video about Keith Copeland on an app called Within. Keith is the gentleman who took a modified GT6 to Bonneville. If you download the app, look for a video called 'The Possible Dream Machine'. Cheers, Doug Mitchell dbm.spitfire at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Jan 14 20:21:47 2018 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2018 20:21:47 -0700 Subject: [Fot] The Possible References: On 1/14/2018 7:35 PM, Doug Mitchell via Fot wrote: > Amici, > > I don't remember anyone talking about it before, but there is a VR > video about Keith Copeland on an app called Within. > > Keith is the gentleman who took a modified GT6 to Bonneville. > Well, the only thing about this car that's GT6 is the rear half sheetmetal.? IIRC, it's powered by a blown Chevy V-8, tube frame, American iron running gear, etc.? It's relationship to a GT6 is barely, just barely cosmetic only. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From dbm.spitfire at gmail.com Sun Jan 14 20:27:17 2018 From: dbm.spitfire at gmail.com (Doug Mitchell) Date: Sun, 14 Jan 2018 22:27:17 -0500 Subject: [Fot] The Possible References: <61cbdf7d-1ef9-2b5a-32a0-718eafc4d15c@dfn.com> Yep, I realise that. In fact, it is front wheel drive as well! On Jan 14, 2018 10:21 PM, "Michael Porter" wrote: > On 1/14/2018 7:35 PM, Doug Mitchell via Fot wrote: > >> Amici, >> >> I don't remember anyone talking about it before, but there is a VR video >> about Keith Copeland on an app called Within. >> >> Keith is the gentleman who took a modified GT6 to Bonneville. >> >> > Well, the only thing about this car that's GT6 is the rear half > sheetmetal. IIRC, it's powered by a blown Chevy V-8, tube frame, American > iron running gear, etc. It's relationship to a GT6 is barely, just barely > cosmetic only. > > > Cheers. > > -- > > > Michael Porter > Roswell, NM > > > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking > distance.... > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From william.tobin31 at verizon.net Mon Jan 15 07:30:38 2018 From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin) Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2018 09:30:38 -0500 Subject: [Fot] The Possible References: <61cbdf7d-1ef9-2b5a-32a0-718eafc4d15c@dfn.com> Hmmmmmm, kind of like NASCAR today?????? I heard that Dan Gurney died. Great guy. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Porter via Fot" To: "Doug Mitchell" ; "Fot" Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2018 10:21 PM Subject: Re: [Fot] The Possible > On 1/14/2018 7:35 PM, Doug Mitchell via Fot wrote: >> Amici, >> >> I don't remember anyone talking about it before, but there is a VR video >> about Keith Copeland on an app called Within. >> >> Keith is the gentleman who took a modified GT6 to Bonneville. >> > > Well, the only thing about this car that's GT6 is the rear half > sheetmetal. IIRC, it's powered by a blown Chevy V-8, tube frame, American > iron running gear, etc. It's relationship to a GT6 is barely, just barely > cosmetic only. > > > Cheers. > > -- > > > Michael Porter > Roswell, NM > > > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking > distance.... > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net > > > From sjanzen at me.com Mon Jan 15 12:12:47 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2018 14:12:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Crankshaft Nitriding Wondering who has done this and if you have recommendations on where I can get it done? The guy I used to work with on this is no longer available, and I want to hand the crank over to someone who can tell me what the process is, etc. I?d like a reference before I ship it out - I?d really like to find someone local but that might be too much to ask. Scott GT6 Philadelphia region -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Mon Jan 15 12:17:50 2018 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2018 11:17:50 -0800 Subject: [Fot] AC Fuel Pump 12V-EP12 References: Amici, I wanted to update you on my finding with my AC fuel pump rebuild. I ordered the Walbro rebuild kit as suggested by Randall Young. I found that it fit the AC pump perfectly. The pump has been rebuilt, installed and is purring perfectly! If you have an old AC or Walbro pump you are trying to resurrect, take a look here for a limited rebuild kit availability: http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/bel_pump.html Thanks again for all the help and suggestions! Brad *Brad Eells* *Chino CA* *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* *#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* On Thu, Dec 28, 2017 at 2:47 PM, Brad Eells wrote: > Amici, > > A long shot I know...my Spitfire electric fuel pump has died...pumping but > nothing coming through. > > I am unable to locate a rebuild kit for an AC 12V-EP12 electric fuel pump > from circa 1972. > > Any chance someone has an extra rebuild kit sitting on a shelf? I have > found an NOS pump...but it's a bit pricey... > > Thanks! > > > Brad > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Mon Jan 15 15:28:16 2018 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2018 17:28:16 -0500 Subject: [Fot] AC Fuel Pump 12V-EP12 References: ?I mentioned this to Brad before, but if you're going to use pump gas with ethanol, the rubber parts will melt.? On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at 2:17 PM, Brad Eells via Fot wrote: > Amici, > > I wanted to update you on my finding with my AC fuel pump rebuild. I > ordered the Walbro rebuild kit as suggested by Randall Young. I found that > it fit the AC pump perfectly. The pump has been rebuilt, installed and is > purring perfectly! > > If you have an old AC or Walbro pump you are trying to resurrect, take a > look here for a limited rebuild kit availability: > > http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/bel_pump.html > > Thanks again for all the help and suggestions! > > Brad > > *Brad Eells* > *Chino CA* > *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* > *#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* > *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* > > > On Thu, Dec 28, 2017 at 2:47 PM, Brad Eells wrote: > >> Amici, >> >> A long shot I know...my Spitfire electric fuel pump has died...pumping >> but nothing coming through. >> >> I am unable to locate a rebuild kit for an AC 12V-EP12 electric fuel pump >> from circa 1972. >> >> Any chance someone has an extra rebuild kit sitting on a shelf? I have >> found an NOS pump...but it's a bit pricey... >> >> Thanks! >> >> >> Brad >> >> *Brad Eells* >> *Chino CA* >> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4* >> *#76 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3* >> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!* >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhassall at gmail.com Tue Jan 16 11:36:24 2018 From: jhassall at gmail.com (J.C. Hassall) Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2018 13:36:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Crank mitriding Hey Scott I saw your post but it disappeared into my phone?s abyss. I used Callies Performance Products in Fostoria OH. Good folks jim Fat-thumbed from my iPhone7 From sjanzen at me.com Tue Jan 16 11:37:56 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2018 13:37:56 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Crank mitriding References: <014CC756-8325-4324-BECB-4860FBE16AE6@gmail.com> thanks! hope all is well. See you at the Kastner Cup in Pittsburgh this summer? On Jan 16, 2018, at 1:36 PM, J.C. Hassall wrote: Hey Scott I saw your post but it disappeared into my phone?s abyss. I used Callies Performance Products in Fostoria OH. Good folks jim Fat-thumbed from my iPhone7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Thu Jan 18 09:47:27 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2018 11:47:27 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Coated Bearing source anyone aware of a source for high quality tri-metal engine bearings for the GT6/TR6, preferably already coated, so that I don?t need to subsequently send them out? Also, recommendations on coatings/vendors who do same? thanks, Scott -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Jan 18 11:02:10 2018 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2018 18:02:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Coated Bearing source References: <2AF98E8F-BA98-446E-831A-0BAB0D274191@me.com> I get mine done locally in Colorado along with piston domes, skirts, combustion chambers, valves, etc. I just picked up a full set of bearings an hour ago. $ 70.00 for the bearings. jim g http://pristinepc.com/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Janzen via Fot" To: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2018 9:47:27 AM Subject: [Fot] Coated Bearing source anyone aware of a source for high quality tri-metal engine bearings for the GT6/TR6, preferably already coated, so that I don?t need to subsequently send them out? Also, recommendations on coatings/vendors who do same? thanks, Scott _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Jan 18 20:03:22 2018 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2018 21:03:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Coated Bearing source References: <2AF98E8F-BA98-446E-831A-0BAB0D274191@me.com> I buy my TR-4 tri-metal bearings from BP Northwest and then send them to Calico Coatings for that part.? Not exactly what you're looking for, but Calico Coatings is who I've used for over 10 years and am very happy with.? Just be sure to mail them them Denver North Carolina - I once sent to Denver Colorado instead. That was a delay of game. https://www.calicocoatings.com/ Tony Drews On 1/18/2018 10:47 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > anyone aware of a source for high quality tri-metal engine bearings > for the GT6/TR6, preferably already coated, so that I don?t need to > subsequently send them out? > > Also, recommendations on coatings/vendors who do same? > > thanks, > Scott > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Fri Jan 19 07:39:44 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2018 09:39:44 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Coated Bearing source update thanks for the feedback from several of you. I contacted Calico Coatings (Denver, NC) and they will coat a set of rods and mains for about $68 plus shipping. Bearings are only in their shop for 1-2 days. I?ve used Calico-coated trimetal King bearings before, sourced from a vendor, and my experience has been that the coating holds up really well, prolonging the bearing and crank life compared to non-coated bearings. Since that vendor that I got the coated bearings from is MIA, good to hear it?s easy, quick, and cheaper to do it this way. You can just order your bearings, have them shipped to Calico directly, and they will forward them on to you in short order. Scott -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Fri Jan 19 11:49:22 2018 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2018 10:49:22 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Coated Bearing source References: <2AF98E8F-BA98-446E-831A-0BAB0D274191@me.com> <7193aaef-d703-4258-c321-3666804e3dff@tonydrews.com> I also buy the king tri-metal bearings from the usual suppliers and send them to Calico Coatings. On my latest engine build, the rod bearing clearance was too large. Calico was able to spray the coating an extra 1/2 a thousandth per shell which reduced my bearing clearance to the proper amount. ~STEVE On Jan 18, 2018, at 7:03 PM, Tony Drews via Fot wrote: I buy my TR-4 tri-metal bearings from BP Northwest and then send them to Calico Coatings for that part. Not exactly what you're looking for, but Calico Coatings is who I've used for over 10 years and am very happy with. Just be sure to mail them them Denver North Carolina - I once sent to Denver Colorado instead. That was a delay of game. https://www.calicocoatings.com/ Tony Drews On 1/18/2018 10:47 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > anyone aware of a source for high quality tri-metal engine bearings for the GT6/TR6, preferably already coated, so that I don?t need to subsequently send them out? > > Also, recommendations on coatings/vendors who do same? > > thanks, > Scott > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triosan at gmail.com Sat Jan 20 14:27:52 2018 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2018 13:27:52 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR6 racecar and trailer for sale Sadly, it has become time to retire from racing. I am offering my fast and well balanced TR6 car for sale. The strong engine easily revs to over 7000 RPM in 4th. There are only 2 race hours on new engine rebuild. A description of the car and its modifications together with phots are available at: https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=887470782617742541#editor/target=post;postID=1879419711385433914;onPublishedMenu=publishedposts;onClosedMenu=publishedposts;postNum=0;src=postname I am asking $20,000 for the car and trailer. Car alone is $17,000 and trailer alone 4000. If a buyer takes the car and trailer, I will deliver anywhere in the US for the price of gas getting to the delivery spot. I am in Tacoma, WA. I figure gas will be about $275 per 1000 miles. Please share this with any one you know who might be interested. Thanks in advance, Chuck Arnold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano at yahoo.com Sun Jan 21 06:55:50 2018 From: bschirano at yahoo.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2018 13:55:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] GT6'rs References: <1224117856.2342511.1516542950594.ref@mail.yahoo.com> OK GT6 guys... Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem.Is a partial lift possible to do this? It looks?like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that).? 2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way? Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March ThanksBrian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell? BSchirano at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Sun Jan 21 09:23:57 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2018 11:23:57 -0500 Subject: [Fot] GT6'rs References: <1224117856.2342511.1516542950594.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1224117856.2342511.1516542950594@mail.yahoo.com> I?ve never done it. Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to pulling it. If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is between the top of the bellhousing and the firewall, as this could inhibit the lift. Venting - I ended up with a 1? and a 1/2? hose on the valve cover and this cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc. The 1/2? hose was not enough, so now there are two. Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting before the valve cover vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this direction that it didn?t work. If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the issue. On Jan 21, 2018, at 8:55 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: OK GT6 guys... Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem. Is a partial lift possible to do this? It looks like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that). 2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way? Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March Thanks Brian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell BSchirano at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Sun Jan 21 10:25:31 2018 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2018 12:25:31 -0500 Subject: [Fot] GT6'rs Hello again, Brian. To add to my response to you earlier, Scott is right about the bellhousing clearance. I have to check my notes, but I believe that when I lifted the engine, the tranny was out of the car, so I would not have had the clearance problem. Perhaps if you did not want to get that far into the project, you could drop the pan enough to cut the gasket out and put a new one in and use some silicone gasket cement or similar to seal where you cut the new gasket. Not the best solution, but with that and venting as Scott mentions, it may be an easy fix to take care of the problem. -----Original Message----- From: Scott Janzen via Fot To: Brian Schirano Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Sun, Jan 21, 2018 12:09 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6'rs I?ve never done it. Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to pulling it. If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is between the top of the bellhousing and the firewall, as this could inhibit the lift. Venting - I ended up with a 1? and a 1/2? hose on the valve cover and this cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc. The 1/2? hose was not enough, so now there are two. Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting before the valve cover vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this direction that it didn?t work. If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the issue. On Jan 21, 2018, at 8:55 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: OK GT6 guys... Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem. Is a partial lift possible to do this? It looks like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that). 2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way? Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March Thanks Brian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell BSchirano at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bschirano at yahoo.com Sun Jan 21 12:25:15 2018 From: bschirano at yahoo.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2018 19:25:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] GT6'rs References: <1224117856.2342511.1516542950594.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1224117856.2342511.1516542950594@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks everyone so far, my thoughts and tentative plans: - weld another bung on the valve cover for venting, was a suspect problem - leak down, good idea, motor build isn't that old, but never know - bell housing clearance, that's a SOB when I R&R the engine to begin with. if I do a lift I will remove the throttle linkage, that will give me at last a little room. I think I have a cable linkage in a box of spares that I have been wanting to install. - pan dimpling, that pan just went on a year ago and I angle ground dressed it, so should have been pretty good. - sealing block, agreed, next time that motor is out it get's a steel one.? Thanks guysBrian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell? BSchirano at yahoo.com On Sunday, January 21, 2018, 6:50:02 PM GMT+1, Larry Young wrote: I have found that leaks are often caused by a PO-gorilla has over tightened and made a dimple at the holes. You can see this clearly with a belt sander. I hammer the dimples down until the belt sander contacts everywhere. This applies to front covers and pans.?- Larry Sent by big thumbs on tiny screen.? On Jan 21, 2018, at 10:23 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: I?ve never done it. ?Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to pulling it. ?If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is between the top of the bellhousing and the firewall, as this could inhibit the lift. Venting - I ended up with a 1? and a 1/2? hose on the valve cover and this cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc. ?The 1/2? hose was not enough, so now there are two. ?Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting before the valve cover vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this direction that it didn?t work. If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the issue. On Jan 21, 2018, at 8:55 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: OK GT6 guys... Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem.Is a partial lift possible to do this? It looks?like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that).? 2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way? Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March ThanksBrian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell? BSchirano at yahoo.com_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britracer89 at yahoo.com Sun Jan 21 13:59:28 2018 From: britracer89 at yahoo.com (Brian Dennis) Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2018 20:59:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] GT6'rs References: <16119c0f283-1720-7ab4d@webjas-vad045.srv.aolmail.net> As Scott mentioned by the time and work invested to get the sump out without pulling the motor you might as well just finish properly and pull the motor. I have done the gasket without pulling the motor but is not worth it unless you are at the the track without an engine lift just trying to finish the event. Also as already suggested consider looking closely at the alloy sealing block. I am also a firm believer in the rubberized fiber gasket with copper RTV. The RTV especially around the sealing block and wood wedges.Brian?Spitsix Hillclimb Special? Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Sunday, January 21, 2018, 1:55 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: Hello again, Brian.? To add to my response to you earlier, Scott is right about the bellhousing clearance.? I have to check my notes, but I believe that when I lifted the engine, the tranny was out of the car, so I would not have had the clearance problem.? Perhaps if you did not want to get that far into the project, you could drop the pan enough to cut the gasket out and put a new one in and use some silicone gasket cement or similar to seal where you cut the new gasket. Not the best solution, but with that and venting as Scott mentions, it may be an easy fix to take care of the problem. -----Original Message----- From: Scott Janzen via Fot To: Brian Schirano Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Sun, Jan 21, 2018 12:09 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6'rs I?ve never done it. ?Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to pulling it. ?If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is between the top of the bellhousing and the firewall, as this could inhibit the lift. Venting - I ended up with a 1? and a 1/2? hose on the valve cover and this cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc. ?The 1/2? hose was not enough, so now there are two. ?Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting before the valve cover vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this direction that it didn?t work. If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the issue. On Jan 21, 2018, at 8:55 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: OK GT6 guys... Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem.Is a partial lift possible to do this? It looks?like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that).? 2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way? Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March ThanksBrian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell? BSchirano at yahoo.com_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From britcars at bellsouth.net Sun Jan 21 15:32:22 2018 From: britcars at bellsouth.net (barry rosenberg) Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2018 22:32:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] GT6'rs References: <16119c0f283-1720-7ab4d@webjas-vad045.srv.aolmail.net> Have yall ever heard of using the exhaust to evacuate the engine? Not quite legal in some groups but easy to hide. From your vent can, use only one, and mount it in the battery box area. Run a tube up from the floor, thru the battery box and into your vent can about 3/4 way up inside the can. Under the car, drill a 1/2" hole in you collector and put a short piece of tubing at a 45 degree angle in cut at a 45 degree angle. Let it stick inside the collector about 1/8". Put a short piece of high temp hose on the pipe then a one way PCV type valve and connect the other end of this hose to the tube coming out the vent can. As exhaust passes the tube in the collector, it will create negative pressure in the engine slowing up leaks and increasing power. NASCAR engines use a vacuum pump and gain about 80 horsepower. I used one on a TR4. Barry On Sunday, January 21, 2018 1:36 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: Hello again, Brian.? To add to my response to you earlier, Scott is right about the bellhousing clearance.? I have to check my notes, but I believe that when I lifted the engine, the tranny was out of the car, so I would not have had the clearance problem.? Perhaps if you did not want to get that far into the project, you could drop the pan enough to cut the gasket out and put a new one in and use some silicone gasket cement or similar to seal where you cut the new gasket. Not the best solution, but with that and venting as Scott mentions, it may be an easy fix to take care of the problem. -----Original Message----- From: Scott Janzen via Fot To: Brian Schirano Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Sun, Jan 21, 2018 12:09 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6'rs I?ve never done it. ?Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to pulling it. ?If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is between the top of the bellhousing and the firewall, as this could inhibit the lift. Venting - I ended up with a 1? and a 1/2? hose on the valve cover and this cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc. ?The 1/2? hose was not enough, so now there are two. ?Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting before the valve cover vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this direction that it didn?t work. If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the issue. On Jan 21, 2018, at 8:55 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: OK GT6 guys... Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem.Is a partial lift possible to do this? It looks?like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that).? 2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way? Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March ThanksBrian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell? BSchirano at yahoo.com_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Sun Jan 21 17:45:15 2018 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2018 19:45:15 -0500 Subject: [Fot] GT6'rs Wow, that's pretty interesting. Never heard of that! -----Original Message----- From: barry rosenberg To: kkjjk ; sjanzen ; bschirano Cc: fot Sent: Sun, Jan 21, 2018 5:32 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6'rs Have yall ever heard of using the exhaust to evacuate the engine? Not quite legal in some groups but easy to hide. From your vent can, use only one, and mount it in the battery box area. Run a tube up from the floor, thru the battery box and into your vent can about 3/4 way up inside the can. Under the car, drill a 1/2" hole in you collector and put a short piece of tubing at a 45 degree angle in cut at a 45 degree angle. Let it stick inside the collector about 1/8". Put a short piece of high temp hose on the pipe then a one way PCV type valve and connect the other end of this hose to the tube coming out the vent can. As exhaust passes the tube in the collector, it will create negative pressure in the engine slowing up leaks and increasing power. NASCAR engines use a vacuum pump and gain about 80 horsepower. I used one on a TR4. Barry On Sunday, January 21, 2018 1:36 PM, kkjjk--- via Fot wrote: Hello again, Brian. To add to my response to you earlier, Scott is right about the bellhousing clearance. I have to check my notes, but I believe that when I lifted the engine, the tranny was out of the car, so I would not have had the clearance problem. Perhaps if you did not want to get that far into the project, you could drop the pan enough to cut the gasket out and put a new one in and use some silicone gasket cement or similar to seal where you cut the new gasket. Not the best solution, but with that and venting as Scott mentions, it may be an easy fix to take care of the problem. -----Original Message----- From: Scott Janzen via Fot To: Brian Schirano Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Sun, Jan 21, 2018 12:09 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6'rs I?ve never done it. Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to pulling it. If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is between the top of the bellhousing and the firewall, as this could inhibit the lift. Venting - I ended up with a 1? and a 1/2? hose on the valve cover and this cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc. The 1/2? hose was not enough, so now there are two. Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting before the valve cover vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this direction that it didn?t work. If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the issue. On Jan 21, 2018, at 8:55 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: OK GT6 guys... Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem. Is a partial lift possible to do this? It looks like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that). 2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way? Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March Thanks Brian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell BSchirano at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vangoughv at hotmail.com Sun Jan 21 17:58:12 2018 From: vangoughv at hotmail.com (Vince G) Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2018 00:58:12 +0000 Subject: [Fot] GT6'rs References: <16119c0f283-1720-7ab4d@webjas-vad045.srv.aolmail.net> IMHO Having Re & Re?d GT6 powertrain numerous times I?d say just pull it right out. To lift the engine a few inches to try and work on the pan you?ll have to have done 90% of the initial work required to just pull it right out anyway. It will be very awkward to properly clean the mating surfaces without lifting the unit out and up where you can easily see and get at things. You can also better inspect the rest of the bottom end etc. And deal with anything that is suspect. Make sure it?s real clean and you use the best gasket material available and it shouldn?t leak. Like Scott said check that front block. I?m sure my engine is milder though, not much better than stock, balanced with a mild compression boost but I regularly rev it beyond 6000 RPM. I have no blow by issues as yet. Best of luck. Vince Hello again, Brian. To add to my response to you earlier, Scott is right about the bellhousing clearance. I have to check my notes, but I believe that when I lifted the engine, the tranny was out of the car, so I would not have had the clearance problem. Perhaps if you did not want to get that far into the project, you could drop the pan enough to cut the gasket out and put a new one in and use some silicone gasket cement or similar to seal where you cut the new gasket. Not the best solution, but with that and venting as Scott mentions, it may be an easy fix to take care of the problem. -----Original Message----- Sent: Sun, Jan 21, 2018 12:09 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6'rs I?ve never done it. Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to pulling it. If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is between the top of the bellhousing and the firewall, as this could inhibit the lift. Venting - I ended up with a 1? and a 1/2? hose on the valve cover and this cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc. The 1/2? hose was not enough, so now there are two. Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting before the valve cover vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this direction that it didn?t work. If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the issue. OK GT6 guys... Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem. Is a partial lift possible to do this? It looks like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that). 2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way? Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March Thanks Brian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jaboruch at netzero.net Sun Jan 21 20:45:23 2018 From: jaboruch at netzero.net (Joe Boruch) Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2018 03:45:23 GMT Subject: [Fot] Coated Bearing source I have sent my bearings out to Calico Coatings in North Carolina. www.calicocoatings.com. They do a nice job with good turn around time. Joe(B) ---------- Original Message ---------- From: JIm Gray via Fot To: Scott Janzen Cc: fot Subject: Re: [Fot] Coated Bearing source Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2018 18:02:10 +0000 (UTC) I get mine done locally in Colorado along with piston domes, skirts, combustion chambers, valves, etc.I just picked up a full set of bearings an hour ago. $ 70.00 for the bearings.jim ghttp://pristinepc.com/ From: "Scott Janzen via Fot" To: "'Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2018 9:47:27 AM Subject: [Fot] Coated Bearing source anyone aware of a source for high quality tri-metal engine bearings for the GT6/TR6, preferably already coated, so that I don?€™t need to subsequently send them out? Also, recommendations on coatings/vendors who do same? thanks,Scott ____________________________________________________________ Duchess Says Goodbye To Royal Family risingstarnewspaper.com http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/5a655ea19f4b75ea16edfst03duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gt6steve at aol.com Mon Jan 22 08:28:46 2018 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2018 10:28:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] GT6'rs I have removed the pan and replaced rod bearings at the track. Some of the bolts are almost impossible to reach, around the front corners were the worst. To remove the pan the engine must be jacked up, motormounts loose and oil pump pickup tube must be removed. I cut down a big wrench, 1 1/8: maybe, to reach inside the loosened pan and unscrew the tube. It's cramped, messy and dangerous in my opinion but it can be done in an emergency. At home, I'd pull the engine... -----Original Message----- From: Brian Schirano via Fot To: Scott Janzen ; Larry Young Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Sun, Jan 21, 2018 11:28 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6'rs Thanks everyone so far, my thoughts and tentative plans: weld another bung on the valve cover for venting, was a suspect problem leak down, good idea, motor build isn't that old, but never know bell housing clearance, that's a SOB when I R&R the engine to begin with. if I do a lift I will remove the throttle linkage, that will give me at last a little room. I think I have a cable linkage in a box of spares that I have been wanting to install. pan dimpling, that pan just went on a year ago and I angle ground dressed it, so should have been pretty good. sealing block, agreed, next time that motor is out it get's a steel one. Thanks guys Brian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell BSchirano at yahoo.com On Sunday, January 21, 2018, 6:50:02 PM GMT+1, Larry Young wrote: I have found that leaks are often caused by a PO-gorilla has over tightened and made a dimple at the holes. You can see this clearly with a belt sander. I hammer the dimples down until the belt sander contacts everywhere. This applies to front covers and pans. - Larry Sent by big thumbs on tiny screen. On Jan 21, 2018, at 10:23 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: I?ve never done it. Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to pulling it. If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is between the top of the bellhousing and the firewall, as this could inhibit the lift. Venting - I ended up with a 1? and a 1/2? hose on the valve cover and this cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc. The 1/2? hose was not enough, so now there are two. Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting before the valve cover vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this direction that it didn?t work. If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the issue. On Jan 21, 2018, at 8:55 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: OK GT6 guys... Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem. Is a partial lift possible to do this? It looks like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that). 2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way? Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March Thanks Brian 26A GT6+, 28 TR6 Brian Schirano 585-305-0349 Cell BSchirano at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Tue Jan 23 13:25:48 2018 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2018 15:25:48 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Quaife LSD Anyone have one in good condition for TR6 for sale? Bruce Stutzman -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triosan at gmail.com Wed Jan 24 17:00:53 2018 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 16:00:53 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Advice on car sale sites Last week I sent a note to FOT on my selling my 1969 TR6 racecar. I got no reponses from anyone, so: Does anyone have a recommendation for "the best -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triosan at gmail.com Wed Jan 24 17:05:20 2018 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 16:05:20 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Car sale sites, 2 Hit the wrong key and sent message prematurely. What recommendations do members have on the best [successful] sites to sell a race car? Did anyone see the message I sent last week? Did anyone go to the link to see information about the sale? Does $17,000 for the car alone or $20,000 for car and trailer seem reasonable? Would appreciate any and all feedback. Thanks, Chuck Arnold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Jan 24 21:05:39 2018 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 20:05:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] 1959 Riverside film 56 Kastner Hello Friends, A fellow racer just sent this to me and I immediately thought I should share it. It's a classic race video from 1959 at Riverside. There are a number of TR3s. There is some brief, yet terrific action of Kas and his #56 TR3 at 1:15 into the film. Dave H. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKPedvq9KF0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mdporter at dfn.com Wed Jan 24 22:30:42 2018 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 22:30:42 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 1959 Riverside film 56 Kastner References: <2000370887.787818.1516853139666@connect.xfinity.com> On 1/24/2018 9:05 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > Hello Friends, > > A fellow racer just sent this to me and I immediately thought I should > share it. > > It's a classic race video from 1959 at Riverside.? There are a number > of TR3s.? There is some brief, yet terrific action of Kas and his #56 > TR3 at 1:15 into the film. > Incidentally, there's a few seconds of Steve McQueen at Santa Barbara on Labor Day, with his Lotus XI, at about the 7:15 mark. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Thu Jan 25 07:12:54 2018 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (toodamnfunky at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2018 14:12:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Advice on car sale sites References: Chuck, Sorry to hear your hanging it up. If I had to sell a race car I'd start with the local vintage race club and local triumph club right off the bat. Try your local SCCA or NASA club sites, you might entice one of them. Then or maybe concurrently the local craigslist just to see if you get any hits at your asking price. If that doesn't work you can try racecars.com, racingjunk.com, bringatrailer.com and then there is ebay. jim g ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot" To: "Friends" Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 5:00:53 PM Subject: [Fot] Advice on car sale sites Last week I sent a note to FOT on my selling my 1969 TR6 racecar. I got no reponses from anyone, so: Does anyone have a recommendation for "the best _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Thu Jan 25 07:47:15 2018 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2018 09:47:15 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Advice on car sale sites References: <340105042.30590168.1516889574717.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> I agree with these suggestions for marketing. I would add that I had trouble with that link - it asked me for my Google password, as I recall, at which time I said NFI and bagged it, so I would try to just include all the info right in your ad or find another hosting spot (or maybe it was just technologically illiterate me). My recollection is that BringaTrailer, which I like, wants an exclusive, so you might talk to them first. Price seems very fair if the car does not need major work, like an engine rebuild or extensive backdating to run vintage. On Jan 25, 2018, at 9:12 AM, JIm Gray via Fot wrote: Chuck, Sorry to hear your hanging it up. If I had to sell a race car I'd start with the local vintage race club and local triumph club right off the bat. Try your local SCCA or NASA club sites, you might entice one of them. Then or maybe concurrently the local craigslist just to see if you get any hits at your asking price. If that doesn't work you can try racecars.com, racingjunk.com, bringatrailer.com and then there is ebay. jim g From: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot" To: "Friends" Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 5:00:53 PM Subject: [Fot] Advice on car sale sites Last week I sent a note to FOT on my selling my 1969 TR6 racecar. I got no reponses from anyone, so: Does anyone have a recommendation for "the best _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cmstenquist at gmail.com Thu Jan 25 08:20:10 2018 From: cmstenquist at gmail.com (carl stenquist) Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2018 10:20:10 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Advice on car sale sites References: <340105042.30590168.1516889574717.JavaMail.zimbra@comcast.net> I sold my TR4 on Bring a Trailer, great experience and great sale. Take a look on BaT and search for Triumph race cars. Check out the way the cars are described and look at the bidding action and comments sections as well. I would highly recommend BaT. Carl On Thu, Jan 25, 2018 at 9:12 AM, JIm Gray via Fot wrote: > Chuck, > Sorry to hear your hanging it up. If I had to sell a race car I'd start > with the local vintage race club and local triumph club > right off the bat. Try your local SCCA or NASA club sites, you might > entice one of them. Then or maybe concurrently the local craigslist just to > see if you get any hits at your asking price. > If that doesn't work you can try racecars.com, racingjunk.com, > bringatrailer.com and then there is ebay. > jim g > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot" > *To: *"Friends" > *Sent: *Wednesday, January 24, 2018 5:00:53 PM > *Subject: *[Fot] Advice on car sale sites > > Last week I sent a note to FOT on my selling my 1969 TR6 racecar. I got > no reponses from anyone, so: > > Does anyone have a recommendation for "the best > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/toodamnfunky at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/cmstenquist at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fasttrs at yahoo.com Thu Jan 25 09:54:38 2018 From: fasttrs at yahoo.com (Mike Munson) Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2018 10:54:38 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Car sale sites, 2 References: I saw your fot post but was not able to access the google site to see details and picture. Mike Munson #28 EP TR6 > On Jan 24, 2018, at 6:05 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot wrote: > > Hit the wrong key and sent message prematurely. > > What recommendations do members have on the best [successful] sites to sell a race car? > > Did anyone see the message I sent last week? > > Did anyone go to the link to see information about the sale? > > Does $17,000 for the car alone or $20,000 for car and trailer seem reasonable? > > Would appreciate any and all feedback. > > Thanks, > > Chuck Arnold > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triosan at gmail.com Thu Jan 25 10:06:22 2018 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Thu, 25 Jan 2018 09:06:22 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Car sale sites, site access References: Set up a new blog where you can see my TR6 racer description. Tr6racer.com/blog I appreciate all the feedback on the prior link not working. Now, if someone would just like to race this nice car. Chuck On Jan 25, 2018 8:54 AM, "Mike Munson" wrote: I saw your fot post but was not able to access the google site to see details and picture. Mike Munson #28 EP TR6 On Jan 24, 2018, at 6:05 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot < fot at autox.team.net> wrote: Hit the wrong key and sent message prematurely. What recommendations do members have on the best [successful] sites to sell a race car? Did anyone see the message I sent last week? Did anyone go to the link to see information about the sale? Does $17,000 for the car alone or $20,000 for car and trailer seem reasonable? Would appreciate any and all feedback. Thanks, Chuck Arnold _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Fri Jan 26 06:24:59 2018 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 13:24:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] F350-8 Camshaft for TR6 References: <1264926382.934231.1516973099627.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Hi, Anyone ever hear of this cam grind (F350-8)? I just picked up a pile of parts and I haven't found the cam sheet yet, so I'm looking for pointers. FWIW - the seller has an A-type gearbox that needs some work (I think it needs an annular ring and it also needs the actuator solenoid) the he'll let go cheap and he also has a TR6 diff with a 4.10 gear. He's going to look to see if it's welded or a posi and will get back to me... If you are interested in the A-type or the diff, drop me a line. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Fri Jan 26 07:35:20 2018 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 09:35:20 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Car sale sites, 2 I was unable to access the google site as well. If you could post it a different way I am sure you would have people check it out, Chuck. -----Original Message----- From: Mike Munson via Fot To: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley Cc: fot Sent: Thu, Jan 25, 2018 12:25 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Car sale sites, 2 I saw your fot post but was not able to access the google site to see details and picture. Mike Munson #28 EP TR6 On Jan 24, 2018, at 6:05 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot wrote: Hit the wrong key and sent message prematurely. What recommendations do members have on the best [successful] sites to sell a race car? Did anyone see the message I sent last week? Did anyone go to the link to see information about the sale? Does $17,000 for the car alone or $20,000 for car and trailer seem reasonable? Would appreciate any and all feedback. Thanks, Chuck Arnold _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From explore8 at outlook.com Fri Jan 26 08:21:18 2018 From: explore8 at outlook.com (D V) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 15:21:18 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Head Studs What is the consensus on head studs for a 1300 race motor? I have read that the ARP set does not have the longer studs and that the thread length on the stud is longer than stock. I have several sets of original that are in great condition. Use stock 45lb torque or higher? Thanks Sent from my iPhone From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Fri Jan 26 08:28:09 2018 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 07:28:09 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Car sale sites, 2 References: <16132e4f36a-191d-dfb61@webjas-vad096.srv.aolmail.net> This works, try it. Tr6racer.com/blog Charly Mitchel TR6 #44 ----- Original Message ----- From: kkjjk--- via Fot To: fasttrs at yahoo.com ; triosan at gmail.com Cc: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 26, 2018 6:35 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Car sale sites, 2 I was unable to access the google site as well. If you could post it a different way I am sure you would have people check it out, Chuck. -----Original Message----- From: Mike Munson via Fot To: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley Cc: fot Sent: Thu, Jan 25, 2018 12:25 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Car sale sites, 2 I saw your fot post but was not able to access the google site to see details and picture. Mike Munson #28 EP TR6 On Jan 24, 2018, at 6:05 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot wrote: Hit the wrong key and sent message prematurely. What recommendations do members have on the best [successful] sites to sell a race car? Did anyone see the message I sent last week? Did anyone go to the link to see information about the sale? Does $17,000 for the car alone or $20,000 for car and trailer seem reasonable? Would appreciate any and all feedback. Thanks, Chuck Arnold _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/charly at mitchelplumbing.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cartravel at pobox.com Fri Jan 26 09:11:16 2018 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 10:11:16 -0600 Subject: [Fot] F350-8 Camshaft for TR6 References: <1264926382.934231.1516973099627.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <31vD1x03K199aTC011vFHj> Could it be a Crane cam? Bob Kramer had some TR4 cams that were something like F250 and F254. There is a master list of Crane cams floating around the net. I will send it to you. ?- Larry On 1/26/2018 7:24 AM, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: > Hi, > > Anyone ever hear of this cam grind (F350-8)? I just picked up a pile > of parts and I haven't found the cam sheet yet, so I'm looking for > pointers. > > FWIW - the seller has an A-type gearbox that needs some work (I think > it needs an annular ring and it also needs the actuator solenoid) the > he'll let go cheap and he also has a TR6 diff with a 4.10 gear. He's > going to look to see if it's welded or a posi and will get back to me... > > If you are interested in the A-type or the diff, drop me a line. > > C ya, > Bob Lang > 339-927-4489 > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/cartravel at pobox.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From macdonaldp at rogers.com Fri Jan 26 09:46:18 2018 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 11:46:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Car sale sites, site access References: Link https://tr6racer.com/blog/ From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 12:06 PM To: Mike Munson Cc: Friends Subject: Re: [Fot] Car sale sites, site access Set up a new blog where you can see my TR6 racer description. Tr6racer.com/blog I appreciate all the feedback on the prior link not working. Now, if someone would just like to race this nice car. Chuck On Jan 25, 2018 8:54 AM, "Mike Munson" wrote: I saw your fot post but was not able to access the google site to see details and picture. Mike Munson #28 EP TR6 On Jan 24, 2018, at 6:05 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot wrote: Hit the wrong key and sent message prematurely. What recommendations do members have on the best [successful] sites to sell a race car? Did anyone see the message I sent last week? Did anyone go to the link to see information about the sale? Does $17,000 for the car alone or $20,000 for car and trailer seem reasonable? Would appreciate any and all feedback. Thanks, Chuck Arnold _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Fri Jan 26 11:19:08 2018 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 12:19:08 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Car sale sites, site access References: <004301d396c5$31662da0$943288e0$@rogers.com> I have a TR3A Vintage Racer available, if anyone has been looking. Long term race car from SCCA and retrofitted for vintage. The best of everything in mechanicals. Cosmetics need updating. If there is a serious interest, please respond. $10,000 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Jan 26, 2018, at 10:46 AM, Paul MacDonald via Fot wrote: > > Link > > https://tr6racer.com/blog/ > > > > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot > Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2018 12:06 PM > To: Mike Munson > Cc: Friends > Subject: Re: [Fot] Car sale sites, site access > > Set up a new blog where you can see my TR6 racer description. > > Tr6racer.com/blog > > I appreciate all the feedback on the prior link not working. > > Now, if someone would just like to race this nice car. > > Chuck > > > On Jan 25, 2018 8:54 AM, "Mike Munson" wrote: > I saw your fot post but was not able to access the google site to see details and picture. > > Mike Munson > #28 EP TR6 > > On Jan 24, 2018, at 6:05 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot wrote: > > Hit the wrong key and sent message prematurely. > > What recommendations do members have on the best [successful] sites to sell a race car? > > Did anyone see the message I sent last week? > > Did anyone go to the link to see information about the sale? > > Does $17,000 for the car alone or $20,000 for car and trailer seem reasonable? > > Would appreciate any and all feedback. > > Thanks, > > Chuck Arnold > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Fri Jan 26 12:52:09 2018 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John Hasty) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 19:52:09 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Car sale sites, site access References: <004301d396c5$31662da0$943288e0$@rogers.com>, An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triosan at gmail.com Fri Jan 26 15:26:43 2018 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 14:26:43 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Car sale sites, site access References: <004301d396c5$31662da0$943288e0$@rogers.com> <44AB4F14-32CE-446F-8DF7-CF9E383C11CC@mhc-law.com> And if you buy the trailer I will bring it to you for price of gas drinking it out from Seattle On Jan 26, 2018 1:11 PM, "John Hasty via Fot" wrote: > OK guys, Jeff,John & I need another one on East coast to have fun with!!!! > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 26, 2018, at 2:11 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot > wrote: > > I have a TR3A Vintage Racer available, if anyone has been looking. > > Long term race car from SCCA and retrofitted for vintage. > > The best of everything in mechanicals. > > Cosmetics need updating. > > If there is a serious interest, please respond. > > $10,000 > > Joe Alexander > 4505 Donald Dr > > Cedar Falls, IA 50613 > > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 <(319)%20464-4711> > > On Jan 26, 2018, at 10:46 AM, Paul MacDonald via Fot > wrote: > > Link > > > > https://tr6racer.com/blog/ > > > > > > > > *From:* Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen > Kelley via Fot > *Sent:* Thursday, January 25, 2018 12:06 PM > *To:* Mike Munson > *Cc:* Friends > *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Car sale sites, site access > > > > Set up a new blog where you can see my TR6 racer description. > > > > Tr6racer.com/blog > > > > I appreciate all the feedback on the prior link not working. > > > > Now, if someone would just like to race this nice car. > > > > Chuck > > > > > > On Jan 25, 2018 8:54 AM, "Mike Munson" wrote: > > I saw your fot post but was not able to access the google site to see > details and picture. > > Mike Munson > > #28 EP TR6 > > > On Jan 24, 2018, at 6:05 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Hit the wrong key and sent message prematurely. > > > > What recommendations do members have on the best [successful] sites to > sell a race car? > > > > Did anyone see the message I sent last week? > > > > Did anyone go to the link to see information about the sale? > > > > Does $17,000 for the car alone or $20,000 for car and trailer seem > reasonable? > > > > Would appreciate any and all feedback. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Chuck Arnold > > _______________________________________________ > > > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ > joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com > > > CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent by > a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is > confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from > disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified > that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate > this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this > message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your > system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the > inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to > waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may > attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. > 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for > bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/triosan at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20170519_122703.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3102061 bytes Desc: not available URL: From triosan at gmail.com Sun Jan 28 12:57:47 2018 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2018 11:57:47 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Video of my TR6 fastest lap at Pacific raceways I am in the process of listing my TR6 racre car for sale on Bringatrailer.com. As part of the process I compiled a 3 minute video of me qualifying for an ICSSC race at Pacific Raceways in Kent WA last July. The time is my fastest ever and was 4 seconds faster than I ever qualified before! Here is the link: https://youtu.be/iVY_oaL92Xo Chuck Arnold PS, my car and trailer are for sale. See about the car at tr6racer.com/blog See -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don at dcphotos.com Sun Jan 28 18:55:47 2018 From: don at dcphotos.com (don at dcphotos.com) Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2018 19:55:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Head Studs I?ve used ARP on my 1296cc When I screwed them fully into the block, there was not enough threads coming thru the head. I called ARP about this and they instructed me to back them out so there would be (now I?m trying to remember this part) one or two turns of thread coming through the nut. Now crazy about this, seems like a bandaid to back them out. ARP touts there studs go deeper into the block increasing strength but I had to back them out in order for them to fit. I torque them to 50ft/lbs. Don Message: 3 Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 15:21:18 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spitfire 1300 Head Studs Message-ID: What is the consensus on head studs for a 1300 race motor? I have read that the ARP set does not have the longer studs and that the thread length on the stud is longer than stock. I have several sets of original that are in great condition. Use stock 45lb torque or higher? Thanks -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triosan at gmail.com Fri Jan 26 16:04:52 2018 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 15:04:52 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Car sale sites, site access References: <004301d396c5$31662da0$943288e0$@rogers.com> <44AB4F14-32CE-446F-8DF7-CF9E383C11CC@mhc-law.com> That would be "driving" it out of Seattle. Foto from Sonoma K cup, On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 2:26 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley < triosan at gmail.com> wrote: > And if you buy the trailer I will bring it to you for price of gas > drinking it out from Seattle > > On Jan 26, 2018 1:11 PM, "John Hasty via Fot" wrote: > >> OK guys, Jeff,John & I need another one on East coast to have fun with!!!! >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Jan 26, 2018, at 2:11 PM, Joe Alexander via Fot >> wrote: >> >> I have a TR3A Vintage Racer available, if anyone has been looking. >> >> Long term race car from SCCA and retrofitted for vintage. >> >> The best of everything in mechanicals. >> >> Cosmetics need updating. >> >> If there is a serious interest, please respond. >> >> $10,000 >> >> Joe Alexander >> 4505 Donald Dr >> >> Cedar Falls, IA 50613 >> >> The-vintage-racer.com >> Gasketinnovations.com >> Cell: 319.464.4711 <(319)%20464-4711> >> >> On Jan 26, 2018, at 10:46 AM, Paul MacDonald via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Link >> >> >> >> https://tr6racer.com/blog/ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net >> ] *On Behalf Of *Chuck Arnold and/or >> Kathleen Kelley via Fot >> *Sent:* Thursday, January 25, 2018 12:06 PM >> *To:* Mike Munson >> *Cc:* Friends >> *Subject:* Re: [Fot] Car sale sites, site access >> >> >> >> Set up a new blog where you can see my TR6 racer description. >> >> >> >> Tr6racer.com/blog >> >> >> >> I appreciate all the feedback on the prior link not working. >> >> >> >> Now, if someone would just like to race this nice car. >> >> >> >> Chuck >> >> >> >> >> >> On Jan 25, 2018 8:54 AM, "Mike Munson" wrote: >> >> I saw your fot post but was not able to access the google site to see >> details and picture. >> >> Mike Munson >> >> #28 EP TR6 >> >> >> On Jan 24, 2018, at 6:05 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> Hit the wrong key and sent message prematurely. >> >> >> >> What recommendations do members have on the best [successful] sites to >> sell a race car? >> >> >> >> Did anyone see the message I sent last week? >> >> >> >> Did anyone go to the link to see information about the sale? >> >> >> >> Does $17,000 for the car alone or $20,000 for car and trailer seem >> reasonable? >> >> >> >> Would appreciate any and all feedback. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> >> Chuck Arnold >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/fot/fasttrs at yahoo.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >> >> >> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This electronic mail transmission has been sent >> by a law firm on a legal matter. It may contain information that is >> confidential, privileged, proprietary, or otherwise legally exempt from >> disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified >> that you are not authorized to read, print, retain, copy or disseminate >> this message, any part of it, or any attachments. If you have received this >> message in error, please delete this message and any attachments from your >> system without reading the content and notify the sender immediately of the >> inadvertent transmission. There is no intent on the part of the sender to >> waive any privilege, including the attorney-client privilege, that may >> attach to this communication. Thank you for your cooperation. 11 U.S.C. >> 528(a)(4) NOTICE. We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for >> bankruptcy relief under the federal Bankruptcy Code. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/fot/triosan at gmail.com >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: CAR RACE K CUP.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1040428 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Mon Jan 29 17:54:33 2018 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2018 19:54:33 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 2018 Kastner Cup Tee-Shirts Tee-Shirts, I?m starting early and often. I?ve agreed to coordinate the Tee-Shirt for this years event at Pitt-Race in conjunction with the Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix. To develop pricing I need a show of interest and how many you?d like. The shirt will have the event poster as the artwork, 100% cotton and a mid weight weave. Minimum quantity is 50 and based upon previous years this should be easy to attain. Initial price estimate is between $18 and $20 dollars, perhaps a bit lower if we can get to 100 shirts Sizes small to 3X large (larger than 2X will cost an additional $4.00). Color can be white or a mid gray but all will be the same. If you will not attend but want a shirt mailing will be extra and to be determined at this point. Prepayment is required as I need the cash before I order the shirts. Cut off date will be mid June unless the printer needs more time. Delivery will be at Pitt Race during the event. So please respond with your level of interest and how many you?d like. I?ll keep a record, need your name and e-mail address and color preference if it matters. Thanks, Jerry Van Vlack aka JVV jerryvv at roadrunner.com WPTA Member and long time FOT supporter via WPTA?s involvement. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Tue Jan 30 08:40:27 2018 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2018 09:40:27 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 2018 Kastner Cup Poster. By Clark Lincoln. FOT, Brilliant in its simplicity. If you are unable to make it the Kastner Cup, and are collecting this series of posters, please contact me. I have tubes and can send advance copies. Thank you Clark Lincoln. Regards, -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0970.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1026785 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com Tue Jan 30 10:00:13 2018 From: rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com (rdavis4 at cfl.rr.com) Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2018 17:00:13 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 2018 Kastner Cup Poster. By Clark Lincoln. Joe, Send me one. What is the postage cost? Bob Davis 5568 Trimble Park Rd Mt Dora, FL 32757 ---- Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > FOT, > > Brilliant in its simplicity. If you are unable to make it the Kastner Cup, and are collecting this series of posters, please contact me. I have tubes and can send advance copies. > > Thank you Clark Lincoln. > > Regards, > From triosan at gmail.com Tue Jan 30 12:17:28 2018 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2018 11:17:28 -0800 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Race Car live auction on Bring a Trailer *I'm excited to report that my 1969 Triumph TR6 Race Car is currently featured on BaT Auctions! Check it out and please help me spread the word! * The auction ends at 12 PM on February 6th. I am hoping it finds a happy home in our Triumph community. Chuck Arnold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bkahler1 at gmail.com Wed Jan 31 08:10:13 2018 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2018 10:10:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Tire pressure monitoring systems Just curious if any of you use a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) on your cars, trailers or tow vehicles. If so do you have any recommendations? Thanks! Brad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmar823 at gmail.com Wed Jan 31 09:00:40 2018 From: dmar823 at gmail.com (Don Marshall) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2018 11:00:40 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Tire pressure monitoring systems References: Hi Brad. I'm a believer. I bought the EezTire TPMS for my 5th wheel after having a blowout and significant damage a couple years ago. This past summer we drove from Florida to Minnesota, stopping at Blackhawk farms along the way to watch the Kasner Cup. Anyway, around Bloomington IL I noticed that the right rear trailer tire was 20 degrees hotter than the others and getting hotter. I got to a trailer place where they backed off the brake adjustment and that helped. When we got to Duluth I had a guy come out and inspect everything. He found that the brake arm on the right rear was jammed and was holding the shoe against the drum. He fixed all that and everything looked fine. At that point I was happy I had bought the system, it probably saved me from a blowout on the way up. Then, when we headed back toward Florida, after about 50 miles the right rear showed hot again. Come to find out the repair guy hadn't pushed the hub all the way onto the axle and it was wobbly loose. Without the TPMS I'd probably have pulled all the way home, or at least until the bearings burned up and the wheel fell off. Got that fixed in Wisconsin and everything was fine all the way home and for several trips since. So, for a couple hundred dollars, it saved me twice on that one trip. Based on that experience, I would insist on a system that shows temperature as well as tire pressure. Don On Wed, Jan 31, 2018 at 10:10 AM, Brad Kahler via Fot wrote: > Just curious if any of you use a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) on > your cars, trailers or tow vehicles. If so do you have any recommendations? > > Thanks! > > Brad > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ > options/fot/dmar823 at gmail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sm1ski at dslextreme.com Wed Jan 31 09:12:29 2018 From: sm1ski at dslextreme.com (michael kowalski) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2018 09:12:29 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Tire pressure monitoring systems References: based upon two tire-saves from the monitoring system embedded in my Ford truck tow vehicle, the idea is great.? A first pass at looking for a stand alone unit for the trailer has not found a good solution. mike, raton racer, FP Spit On 1/31/2018 8:10 AM, Brad Kahler via Fot wrote: > Just curious if any of you use a Tire Pressure Monitoring System > (TPMS) on your cars, trailers or tow vehicles.? If so do you have any > recommendations? > > Thanks! > > Brad > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sm1ski at dslextreme.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dos_gusanos at msn.com Wed Jan 31 09:18:02 2018 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry A. Morrison) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2018 16:18:02 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Fw: Anyone have a set of good early TR4 seat bottoms for sale? References: , <48a3255d-5e68-487f-8052-c1bed995b138@BL2NAM02HT106.mail.protection.outlook.com> Sent from Outlook ________________________________ From: postmaster at outlook.com Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 9:17 AM To: FOT at auto.team.net Subject: Undeliverable: Anyone have a set of good early TR4 seat bottoms for sale? Delivery has failed to these recipients or groups: Your message couldn't be delivered. The Domain Name System (DNS) reported that the recipient's domain does not exist. Contact the recipient by some other means (by phone, for example) and ask them to tell their email admin that it appears that their domain isn't properly registered at their domain registrar. Give them the error details shown below. It's likely that the recipient's email admin is the only one who can fix this problem. For more information and tips to fix this issue see this article: https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=389361. Diagnostic information for administrators: Generating server: BL2NAM02HT106.mail.protection.outlook.com FOT at auto.team.net Remote Server returned '550 5.4.310 DNS domain auto.team.net does not exist [Message=InfoDomainNonexistent] [LastAttemptedServerName=auto.team.net] [BL2NAM02FT036.eop-nam02.prod.protection.outlook.com]' Original message headers: h=From:Date:Subject:Message-ID:Content-Type:MIME-Version; bh=TkVyeC6AI34dLegfRDV3UscV0xqx2/foubgtzDYjdy8=; b=K/xUJmU32z1NbtJTzOefxrMXiGOIIdO0FQvknqiwbZn9xM8yqdofx2DHYKCJCOHF3rGZ/28eSEFwhk4Z1ja9zcwygZ1Lfmo/wVMmRsRB0MUUcq/PuEAfeGIsOEB1CbcdUV52Ntysi75C5jjxeG/4n+gM7910R9wc2DSKNNEWuQ5BzzoMz2WACg87lsEENUO7qxc3nPTyrE4xYKDUWJu2IfDem5LgshITezWJlMHjgAYr8maIKhW9J87RQ9SOLBKoIwz4EioKfa4qKgg6D9FCSviMEPijd5gmGGeW+hQgAvKvGVDsIyHtJhyM5S875F+pjsuPP5hEXrNPpQg7IcyZ5Q== Received: from BL2NAM02FT022.eop-nam02.prod.protection.outlook.com (10.152.76.59) by BL2NAM02HT106.eop-nam02.prod.protection.outlook.com (10.152.76.172) with Microsoft SMTP Server (version=TLS1_2, cipher=TLS_ECDHE_RSA_WITH_AES_256_CBC_SHA384_P384) id 15.20.444.13; Wed, 31 Jan 2018 16:17:16 +0000 Received: from CY4PR14MB1160.namprd14.prod.outlook.com (10.152.76.58) by BL2NAM02FT022.mail.protection.outlook.com (10.152.77.153) with Microsoft SMTP Server (version=TLS1_2, cipher=TLS_ECDHE_RSA_WITH_AES_128_CBC_SHA256_P256) id 15.20.444.13 via Frontend Transport; Wed, 31 Jan 2018 16:17:15 +0000 Received: from CY4PR14MB1160.namprd14.prod.outlook.com ([fe80::6801:a408:6703:764]) by CY4PR14MB1160.namprd14.prod.outlook.com ([fe80::6801:a408:6703:764%13]) with mapi id 15.20.0444.016; Wed, 31 Jan 2018 16:17:15 +0000 From: "Henry A. Morrison" To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" , "FOT at auto.team.net" Subject: Anyone have a set of good early TR4 seat bottoms for sale? Thread-Topic: Anyone have a set of good early TR4 seat bottoms for sale? Thread-Index: AQHTmq6/WX10aPJ+O0GOWEjJuI2EAA== Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2018 16:17:15 +0000 Accept-Language: en-US Content-Language: en-US x-incomingtopheadermarker: OriginalChecksum:F315A0249FBC16C0FFFE5D7C3A4A5054297F7C30A5B5CF7198D60DC56E8CA35B;UpperCasedChecksum:88E965CF33B3F406B02CF8791D143B7EDCC3E7F287B7FDA24525FF5905F73E0E;SizeAsReceived:7097;Count:44 x-ms-exchange-messagesentrepresentingtype: 1 x-tmn: [18Ry9SX5EMrmUB45ks2DkhtDbWQafHBfGtjeMtPMpxeM37LlmF05SCq2D68CqsI5] x-ms-publictraffictype: Email x-microsoft-exchange-diagnostics: 1;BL2NAM02HT106;6:oFlolHNegmxi4/G0gU2vxparoZ8HfcapDIg19CahaKTz4yanRtm0mWgQ5gywm5+Jmr8cNtYrRz0YgrvaEzWzjo7vzREQbLleqIW0DIspNcYW160Cx2FG6AYjhz/enaWaXs+CVwhqk3jals1ZaKqu41mW2FMZRLwyrIy2KmJprU3XaHPcDcexEfFoYMWE3gfovCgKrwFCsmUKNrsGOAU393QlT3phwQ09KzfpJUNl2/62+Qp7icXcEjLtt0bdEfRwxi5QoH8BU5VImBcCliFRnBBbdRhPvzWGqHYuXGZvL5D7jxUWc7CnUIzSjLlW5bKzNQr9uw7a3dSX68gT2ldYGoZZWE2U8nad/+/3ctWj7Nc=;5:xEKCzp66fm/S5x9h5WougUsxtMsGsXASXH8MAWxZkzOoYkUDEeQv5YqEs9D4EO+NsCurHvm7JZKPrfA8ZXAZGcI5yJ5/lWC6AhRvRwqtsZuHBVeVr3LpbcSlnqJDHRVlQMHDUzaEa7ak5gV8tH8yc5ne8AiLpPfjjux3dTcRyB8=;24:HclUoij/Ls+toxk+W3rpbY/SaBTqNdiwZ05UOcm3AA+of01zZkzZzjQ7BV5jT3nqmxoOpbWhL8tntTClVBqGsowoNZefZqYc5LhUpUBcPS4=;7:kVHJdgOGcmwhfMX2rJkqpFHM7KwxFASN8GtitZ6yMetOsY7TtTMC1toEzLnzQVYDfuulLqz+KddU02exYdEtlIQSfvh7+QpCLg7rr7Fb+tA6iebG/Bvpr479mWmnGgWHVmM+kKEQGhF2ZC+lWej53xgtOzg1io9wTDLSca3FKRhrYQZlIuqNJK81t0TVfLOZXRHrxnJGDr1ab0G7AwvC0fzj86yDOHQVQZjj98c0mMKY4BIPio4MXoUlbrK5Z2Qq x-incomingheadercount: 44 x-eopattributedmessage: 0 x-microsoft-antispam: UriScan:;BCL:0;PCL:0;RULEID:(7020095)(201702061074)(5061506573)(5061507331)(1603103135)(2017031320274)(2017031324274)(2017031323274)(2017031322404)(1603101448)(1601125374)(1701031045);SRVR:BL2NAM02HT106; x-ms-traffictypediagnostic: BL2NAM02HT106: x-ms-office365-filtering-correlation-id: 6cfdf42e-3094-479d-e785-08d568c617ec x-exchange-antispam-report-cfa-test: BCL:0;PCL:0;RULEID:(444000031);SRVR:BL2NAM02HT106;BCL:0;PCL:0;RULEID:;SRVR:BL2NAM02HT106; x-forefront-prvs: 056929CBB8 x-forefront-antispam-report: SFV:NSPM;SFS:(7070007)(98901004);DIR:OUT;SFP:1901;SCL:1;SRVR:BL2NAM02HT106;H:CY4PR14MB1160.namprd14.prod.outlook.com;FPR:;SPF:None;LANG:; spamdiagnosticoutput: 1:99 spamdiagnosticmetadata: NSPM boundary="_000_CY4PR14MB11605DBB2873F4BA82827DDD90FB0CY4PR14MB1160namp_" (UTC) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded message was scrubbed... From: "Henry A. Morrison" Subject: Anyone have a set of good early TR4 seat bottoms for sale? Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2018 16:17:15 +0000 Size: 6108 URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Wed Jan 31 10:39:59 2018 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (Christian Marx) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2018 18:39:59 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Tire pressure monitoring systems References: Hi, My Hummer H3 has one installed. It works very fine. Cheers Chris Am 31.01.2018 16:18 schrieb "Brad Kahler via Fot" : > Just curious if any of you use a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) on > your cars, trailers or tow vehicles. If so do you have any recommendations? > > Thanks! > > Brad > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4racing@ > googlemail.com > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Bill at ponostyle.com Wed Jan 31 12:51:07 2018 From: Bill at ponostyle.com (Bill) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2018 09:51:07 -1000 Subject: [Fot] Tire pressure monitoring systems References: I plan to add TPMS to both of my trailers and to the GMC motor coach I?m restoring. I?m a big believer in the value of knowing what is going on with your tires before they disintegrate. > On Jan 31, 2018, at 6:00 AM, Don Marshall via Fot wrote: > > Hi Brad. I'm a believer. I bought the EezTire TPMS for my 5th wheel after having a blowout and significant damage a couple years ago. This past summer we drove from Florida to Minnesota, stopping at Blackhawk farms along the way to watch the Kasner Cup. Anyway, around Bloomington IL I noticed that the right rear trailer tire was 20 degrees hotter than the others and getting hotter. I got to a trailer place where they backed off the brake adjustment and that helped. When we got to Duluth I had a guy come out and inspect everything. He found that the brake arm on the right rear was jammed and was holding the shoe against the drum. He fixed all that and everything looked fine. At that point I was happy I had bought the system, it probably saved me from a blowout on the way up. Then, when we headed back toward Florida, after about 50 miles the right rear showed hot again. Come to find out the repair guy hadn't pushed the hub all the way onto the axle and it was wobbly loose. Without the TPMS I'd probably have pulled all the way home, or at least until the bearings burned up and the wheel fell off. Got that fixed in Wisconsin and everything was fine all the way home and for several trips since. So, for a couple hundred dollars, it saved me twice on that one trip. Based on that experience, I would insist on a system that shows temperature as well as tire pressure. Don > > Just curious if any of you use a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) on your cars, trailers or tow vehicles. If so do you have any recommendations? > > Thanks! > > Brad > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dmar823 at gmail.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Wed Jan 31 16:58:03 2018 From: Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2018 15:58:03 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Contact with Barry Munson I am trying to get in contact with Barry Munson in Alberta, Canada. The phone number that I have to him is not working at this time. It has worked in the past. Barry, Please call me at The Engine Room. Thanks, Greg Solow -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bitishrm at comcast.net Wed Jan 31 17:49:13 2018 From: bitishrm at comcast.net (bitishrm at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2018 00:49:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Tire pressure monitoring systems References: <11C50780-1774-436A-AC71-5211EA02D3A9@ponostyle.com> I tow a lot as well. I look forward to any TPMS recommendations. Richard ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill via Fot" To: "Don Marshall" Cc: "Friends of Triumph" , "Brad Kahler" Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2018 11:51:07 AM Subject: Re: [Fot] Tire pressure monitoring systems I plan to add TPMS to both of my trailers and to the GMC motor coach I?m restoring. I?m a big believer in the value of knowing what is going on with your tires before they disintegrate. On Jan 31, 2018, at 6:00 AM, Don Marshall via Fot < fot at autox.team.net > wrote: Hi Brad. I'm a believer. I bought the EezTire TPMS for my 5th wheel after having a blowout and significant damage a couple years ago. This past summer we drove from Florida to Minnesota, stopping at Blackhawk farms along the way to watch the Kasner Cup. Anyway, around Bloomington IL I noticed that the right rear trailer tire was 20 degrees hotter than the others and getting hotter. I got to a trailer place where they backed off the brake adjustment and that helped. When we got to Duluth I had a guy come out and inspect everything. He found that the brake arm on the right rear was jammed and was holding the shoe against the drum. He fixed all that and everything looked fine. At that point I was happy I had bought the system, it probably saved me from a blowout on the way up. Then, when we headed back toward Florida, after about 50 miles the right rear showed hot again. Come to find out the repair guy hadn't pushed the hub all the way onto the axle and it was wobbly loose. Without the TPMS I'd probably have pulled all the way home, or at least until the bearings burned up and the wheel fell off. Got that fixed in Wisconsin and everything was fine all the way home and for several trips since. So, for a couple hundred dollars, it saved me twice on that one trip. Based on that experience, I would insist on a system that shows temperature as well as tire pressure. Don On Wed, Jan 31, 2018 at 10:10 AM, Brad Kahler via Fot < fot at autox.team.net > wrote:
Just curious if any of you use a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) on your cars, trailers or tow vehicles. If so do you have any recommendations? Thanks! Brad _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Jan 21 20:08:52 2018 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2018 03:08:52 -0000 Subject: [Fot] GT6'rs References: <16119c0f283-1720-7ab4d@webjas-vad045.srv.aolmail.net> <230065556.2075587.1516573942602@mail.yahoo.com> On 1/21/2018 3:32 PM, barry rosenberg via Fot wrote: > Have yall ever heard of using the exhaust to evacuate the engine? Not > quite legal in some groups but easy to hide. From your vent can, use > only one, and mount it in the battery box area. Run a tube up from the > floor, thru the battery box and into your vent can about 3/4 way up > inside the can. Under the car, drill a 1/2" hole in you collector and > put a short piece of tubing at a 45 degree angle in cut at a 45 degree > angle. Let it stick inside the collector about 1/8". Put a short piece > of high temp hose on the pipe then a one way PCV type valve and > connect the other end of this hose to the tube coming out the vent > can. As exhaust passes the tube in the collector, it will create > negative pressure in the engine slowing up leaks and increasing power. > NASCAR engines use a vacuum pump and gain about 80 horsepower. I used > one on a TR4. The technique described is known as eduction.? Gas is pulled into the passing exhaust stream by creating a partial vacuum at the mouth of the tube inserted into exhaust pipe.? The 45 deg. suggestion is not hard and fast.? I would suggest that an included angle less than 45 deg. is more efficient, but there might be some experimentation required to get the optimum shape for the pipe mouth.? In fact, Toyota used such an arrangement on their 3AC and 4AC engines to eliminate the air injection pump.? Fresh air was drawn from the air cleaner housing through a reed valve attached to a flame trap.? The only problem with the arrangement was that the reed valve was a little noisy at idle.? Sanctioning bodies which are chary of the method might be less inclined to put up a stink if they saw that the method has been used safely in production cars and if, say, some junkyard production parts were installed. As for pulling the pan in the car, I've done it, and without a hoist and with the trans in the car (and this was with a TR6 engine installed, the pan of which is a good inch deeper at the front). Had to disconnect the mounts, jack up the engine and then wedge the engine in place.? But, I did manage to do a quick re-ring and rod bearing replacement (and replace a rod with a stretched big end) and get the pan back on without engine removal, so it can be done.? But, it's not what I'd call fun. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: